Understanding a Paper Pattern

A pattern is more than an envelope of paper. Body Measurements/Sizing

Even before you look inside, the outer envelope is printed On the envelope flap and/or top left column, size ranges for the
with useful information. Below we show you how to ‘read’ pattern are shown. These body measurements — bust, waist,
the envelope to find out all you need to know about the hips and back waist length (nape of neck to waist) are needed
designs included. to decide which size to select. For tops, dresses and jackets use
Envelope Front your bust measurement. For trousers and skirts use your hip
As well as photographs or illustrations of the garments measurement. Patterns are multi-sized so if you are between
included, information shown includes the pattern number, sizes, you can cut from one size line to another.
the size range (patterns are multi-sized) included in the See Pattern Sizing Know-How: How to Choose your Pattern Size
envelope and the sewing rating: Very Easy, Easy, Fast-to-Sew, for more information on sizing.
Average, Advanced. Garment Description
At the top of the envelope is a brief description of the
garments. This may include information regarding the fit —
‘close fitting’ , ‘fitted’ etc. It will also say if garments are lined
and any other special features.
Suggested Fabrics
A list of recommended fabric types for that pattern.
This will help you decide what is suitable.
It is not exclusive and you can use alternatives.
Fabric Requirements
Each garment in the pattern is known as a ‘View’ and
identified by a letter. The amount of fabric needed to make
each View and size is shown. It is shown in yards on the left of
the envelope and metres on the right.
Requirements for different fabric widths are shown.
Envelope Back
This is where you will find everything you need to know about Asterisks * ** ***after the fabric width indicate quantities for
the pattern . fabric with nap, without nap, with or without nap
BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO NB: Nap is the pile or sheen of a fabric. Fabrics ‘with nap’ have a
Misses’ Women’s
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W sheen or pile and all pattern pieces need to be laid top to toe in the
Bust 31∞ 32∞ 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Ins.
Waist 24 25 26∞ 28 30 33 35 37 39 Ins. same direction.
Hip 33∞ 34∞ 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Ins.
Back Waist Length 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17∂ 17≤ 17∑
Jeune Femme/ Femme/
17∞ Ins.
Following the fabric requirements, interfacing and/or lining
TAILLES/TALLAS
T
TA ILLES/T/TALLAS 8
Jóvenes y Señoras
10 12 14
Damas
16 18W 20W 22W 24W
requirements are shown.
Poitrine/Busto 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 cm
Taille/Cintura
T
Ta ille/Cintura 61 64 67 71 76 84 89 94 99 cm Notions
Hanches/Caderas 85 88 92 97 102 107 112 117 122 cm
Longueur dos/Largo espalda 40 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43.5 44 44 44.5 cm The haberdashery items needed for each of the Views. We
recommend you buy everything needed before you begin
sewing.
Finished Garment Measurements
Often overlooked — this information will help you decide
which size to make. Compare the Finished Garment
Measurements with the body measurements of the size you
plan to use to see how much ‘ease’ is included.
Ease is the amount of room needed to wear a garment
comfortably, as well as designer’s intended fit.
A close fitting garment may have as little as 12mm (½”)
whereas a very loose fitting garment may have 20cm (8”).
The pattern tissue pieces may also show the Finished Garment
Measurements printed at bust, waist, hip and/or bicep.
Line Drawings
These show the front and back of the garments and the
position of seams, darts and zips.

© McCall Pattern Company Ltd • Simplicity Creative Group

Having selected your chosen size and purchased fabric and Pattern Markings
notions, you are ready to delve into the pattern envelope. The instruction sheets include general pattern marking
It includes the step-by-step pattern instruction sheets and symbols that are used on the tissue and in the instructions.
paper pattern. We recommend you familiarise yourself with these.
Inside the Envelope PATTERN MARKINGS
Even experienced sewers recommend taking time to read the GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, parallel to
step by step pattern instruction sheet. Take special note of the selvage or fold.

fabric layout and instructions for the View you wish to make. FOLDLINE: Place line on fold of fabric.
Having an idea of how the garment comes together before you BUTTONHOLE MARKING: Indicates exact length and
begin helps the construction go smoothly. place ment of buttonholes.

General Sewing Information and Glossary BUTTON MARKING: Indicates button placement.
Every pattern includes general sewing information that is NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching seams and con-
useful to know. It includes a key to the illustration shading – struction details.
e.g. whether the fabric is right sides together; if pattern pieces Indicates the Bustline, Waistline, Hip and/or Biceps. Mea-
are placed face down; seam width allowance; how to clip and surements refer to circumference of Finished Garment
(Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease).
notch seams and a glossary of common sewing techniques. Adjust pattern if necessary. The measurement excludes
pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8” (1.5cm) included unless other-

SEWING INFORMATION wise indicated, but not printed on tissue.
,)*+#62
Pattern Pieces
Take a look at the line drawings of the pattern pieces included.
You will see how many pattern pieces there are, and which
is needed for each of the Views .All are numbered for easy
identification.

5 PATTERN PIECES
12)6)%)#21 5 PIEZAS DE PATRON
Use 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated.
4
3

1 2

5
CDEF
CD

+6).6,+$
E
Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching notches. Fit BCD BCD
EF EF F
garment before stitching major seams.
A A
*211
Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip
where necessary so they lie flat.

GLOSSARY
DRESS A, B, C, D, E, F VESTIDO A, B, C, D, E, F
Sewing terms appearing in %.6$ 26in Sewing Instructions 1 FRONT 1 FRENTE
are explained below. 2 BACK 2 ESPALDA
&%&$$ - Stitch along seamline, using long machine 3 FRONT FACING 3 VISTA DEL FRENTE
stltches. Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. 4 BACK FACING 4 VISTA DE LA ESPALDA
5 SLEEVE C D E F 5 MANGA C D E F
NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine
stitches 1/4" (6mm) away in seam allowance for more control.
!,,Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one
of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) Turn in along The Tissue
stitching and stitch close to fold OR (4) Overlock. Determine the pattern pieces needed for your View choice
OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding.
and cut them out roughly from the big tissue sheets. Take care
to cut the pieces you need for your size — on occasion there
!%(,& - Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if nec- mayl be two of the same pattern piece but for different sizes.
essary. Open out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along
crease; press. Turn in along crease; stitch. Each tissue piece is marked with:
$($$ - On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, seam
• The pattern number
or previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch • The View and pattern piece number
where indicated in instructions. • How many pieces to cut in fabric, interfacing and possibly
!&$$ - Open out facing or underside of garment;
lining
stitch to seam allowance close to seam. • Around the edges are the cutting lines – there may be up
to lines for the different sizes. Each size line is slightly different
– solid line, dot and dash, long dash etc

© McCall Pattern Company Ltd • Simplicity Creative Group

• There will be circles, squares and triangles. These are Some pieces may be laid against the fold of the fabric so that
used to help match pieces accurately when sewing. when opened out, you get one piece with mirrored right and
• On a bodice piece there may be a bust-point mark left. Some pieces need to be placed face down.
This is where the apex (fullest part of the bust)
should fall. It may also include the finished TIP: Generally speaking and where possible, lay all pieces
garment measurements at this point. Check ‘top to toe’ in the same direction just in case your fabric has
against your body measurements to ensure there a nap that is not easily seen in artificial light.
will be enough ‘ease/room’ in the garment. On a skirt or dress,
there may be waist and hip points shown on the tissue with Always cut OUT around the triangle notches. These are used
the corresponding Finished Garment Measurements. to match pieces together, front to back, sleeve into the correct
• A grainline – a straight line with arrow head at one or both armhole etc. Cutting outwards ensures that if you do need to
ends. This should be parallel to the selvedge when placed on pinch a bit of seam allowance if a garment feels too snug, you
the fabric. will be able to do so.
GRAINLINE
U

TIP: Remember that it is very important that the grain

line on the pattern piece is parallel to the selvedge of the
• A line with right angles and arrow heads on the short ends fabric. If pieces are not cut ‘on grain’ you may get twisted or
indicates the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of rippling seams.
fabric.
Preparing to sew
CENTRE ON FOLD Once pieces are cut out, transfer pattern markings from the
U U
tissue to the fabric. These will be placement of zips, pockets,
Having collated the pieces you need, cut more carefully dart shaping etc. If you have laid out the fabric, right sides
around the size you are making. together, it is easy to use a marking pen or chalk pencil to do
TIP: if you are larger at the waist than the size chosen for this. Pierce the tissue with a pin and then mark the wrong
a dress, you can graduate from one size line to another side of the fabric through the tissue at the placement points.
smoothly to accommodate this. Push the pin through to the under layer and again mark the
If pattern pieces are creased, press on a cool-iron to flatten position.
them.
TIP: Unpin pattern from fabric once markings are
Pattern/Fabric Layouts – Instruction Sheet transferred but keep the tissue folded with the fabric in
Each view has a choice of layouts showing how to fold the case you wish to refer to it again during construction.
fabric and then place the pattern pieces on to it. Layouts for
115cm (45”) wide and 150cm (60”) wide fabric are shown. Sewing Directions
There may also be different layouts for different sizes. It’s You are now ready to start the garment construction,
a good ideas to mark the layout you are following so that, following the illustrated step by step instructions. Each step
should you get distracted during the process, you don’t is numbered and illustrated with a diagram that has the
inadvertently start following a different one. same number. Follow the steps to make your garment with
At the top will be the View garment name and letter, for confidence.
example: DRESS B. Then a list of the pattern pieces needed.

.*21166621$+.%6
use pieces/use piezas: 1, 2, 3 & 4
SELVAGES
45" (115 cm)
with or without nap 4 2
con o sin pelillo 1 3
sizes/tallas 8-10-12-14
FOLD

SELVAGES
45" (115 cm)
2
with or without nap
con o sin pelillo 1 3
sizes/tallas 16-18W-20W-22W-24W 4 4
FOLD

SELVAGES
60" (150 cm)
4 2
with or without nap
con o sin pelillo
sizes/tallas 8-10-12-14-16-18W-20W-22W 1 3

FOLD

SELVAGES
60" (150 cm)
with or without nap 4 2
con o sin pelillo
size/talla 24W 1 3

FOLD

© McCall Pattern Company Ltd • Simplicity Creative Group