Advanced Technology in Apparel

Manufacturing

Joy Sarkar, Niaz Morshed Rifat, Md. Sakib-Uz-Zaman,

Md. Abdullah Al Faruque, and Zawad Hasan Prottoy

Abstract This chapter examines the latest and most modern apparel manufacturing,
finishing, and processing practices. As apparel manufacturing has been a technology
practiced for ages, many modifications in machinery and processes have been intro-
duced. Digital garment printing, 3D fit, prototypes, and sew-free technologies are
some of the latest technologies in apparel manufacturing. Besides, to be compatible
with Industry 4.0, a fully automatic production system is very close to being fully
adopted. At the same time, using artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning in
studying consumer behavior and perception has taken a remarkable place. AI and
machine learning are also being used for making business decisions. However, tech-
nology is part and parcel of each step of the apparel supply chain. All of these new
technologies and ways of using technology have been very helpful for the growth of
the apparel business. It has given apparel processing a significant advantage in every
way possible.

Keywords Apparel manufacturing · Sew-free technology · Advanced quality

monitoring systems · Intelligent techniques · Apparel production · Apparel supply
chain · Apparel finishing

J. Sarkar (B) · Z. H. Prottoy

Department of Textile Engineering, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET),
Khulna 9203, Bangladesh
e-mail: [email protected]
N. M. Rifat
Department of Textile Engineering, Port City International University, Chattogram, Bangladesh
Md. Sakib-Uz-Zaman
Department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Md. A. Al Faruque
Institute for Frontier Materials, Deakin University, Geelong, VIC 3216, Australia

© The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2023 177
Md. M. Rahman et al. (eds.), Advanced Technology in Textiles, Textile Science and
Clothing Technology, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-2142-3_7
178 J. Sarkar et al.

1 Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing

Thousands of years ago, since humans first began making clothing from natural
fibers, clothing has become the object with which people interact most frequently
[1]. The ready-made garment industry, which should be acknowledged as the most
significant contributor to the modern world’s economic development, is always kept
out during analyses of global economic history. The clothing industry was the primary
source of employment and revenue generation in the United Kingdom for many
decades during the Industrial Revolution. In the modern world, most industrialized
nations have benefited from the garment trend [2]. The textile industry is known
for being the most labor-intensive industry in the world. Therefore, this industry
has excellent prospects for underdeveloped countries like Bangladesh, Cambodia,
Kenya, and Madagascar, which offer cheap labor for industries. As a result, the
trend of current textile production has shifted from developing to underdeveloped
countries, even though these countries have some environmental issues.
In addition, cloud-based and intelligent manufacturing will be the main drivers
for the Fourth Industrial Revolution, or “Industry 4.0.” It focuses on the technical
advancement of various parts of the textile industry [4]. Nine technological progress
pillars are used to transform traditional sectors into Industry 4.0. The industrial
Internet of Things (IoT), simulation, vertical and horizontal system integration, big
data analytics, the cloud, additive manufacturing, augmented reality, and cyber secu-
rity are among the nine pillars [5]. The best option in the garment business to achieve
the current requirement is to use automation and the other most recent develop-
ments in this trend. Automation is a process through which automatic equipment
performs operational tasks in place of human operators. The production process in
the modern apparel industry already includes cutting-edge technology like digital
garment printing, 3D fit and prototypes, sew-free technologies, and many others.
Artificial intelligence is also used to perceive consumer expectations and actions
toward upcoming items or products. Cutting-edge technologies have increased the
productivity in the clothing sector. They also help to improve the quality of the
goods and services and to enhance the brand image of the apparel manufacturers’
businesses. In the highly competitive market, technology development and adopting
new automated tools can improve a company’s position [8]. Computerized tools and
digital equipment with artificial intelligence can be an excellent way to ensure high
productivity and lessen the need for people to work. The modern adjustments in the
apparel manufacturing industry will be discussed in this chapter.

2 Three-Dimensional (3D) Body Scanner

In the apparel industry, it was impossible to achieve a proper fit of a garment without
precise measurement before the invention of 3D body scanners. It is always consid-
ered time-consuming and tedious. Most consumers dislike being measured in the
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 179

traditional way since processing takes longer. In 1988, the US Army conducted an
exciting survey and found that measuring the apparel for only one individual took
about four hours [9]. A 3D body scanner can provide information about the outer
dimensions of the human body. This electronic copy can be put together with patterns
for clothes, which can be graded and cut by a computer [10].

2.1 Types of 3D Body Scanners

There are five different categories of 3D body scanning technologies used globally;
they are discussed as follows [11]:
• Laser scanning
A laser beam is projected onto the human body as one or more fine, angular stripes.
Light sensors capture the scene during the procedure. Numerous geometrical prin-
ciples are then applied to measure the surface data of the human body. Only laser
beams that are safe for the eyes are employed to keep the process safe.
• Projection of white light patterns
This technology is similar to laser scanning but uses projected light patterns to
measure the body instead of lasers. This procedure uses a light sensor and a projector
pattern to produce the design. Typically, strips are used to create the body’s pattern.
Complex systems could employ two or more sensors to produce the pattern.
• Image processing and modeling
This technology uses image processing and modeling methods to measure the human
body, although, in this instance, 3D data is derived from 2D photos. Two different
setups can be used for this modeling: one processes the measurement using only
two doubles (one from the front and one from the back), while the other uses three
pictures of the human body (two from the front, one from the back).
• Other active sensors
Two novel technologies that are based on active sensors are used nowadays. The first
technology measures the body using harmless high-frequency radio waves, while the
second uses 3D cameras with CMOS sensors.
• Digital tape measurement
The electronic tape measurement technique is a straightforward but reliable way to
measure the dimensions of the human body. The measurement procedure is quite
similar to the traditional tape measurement system, except that the tape is now elec-
tronically given via wireless technology, which measures various body areas and
records data digitally. As indicated in Table 1, different regions use the technology
mentioned earlier differently.
180 J. Sarkar et al.

Table 1 Number of companies developing and producing technologies for 3D body measurement
of the human body. Reprinted with permission from [11]
Region Laser Scanning White light projection Others Total
North America 7 7 5 19
Europe 0 22 7 29
Asia 4 3 0 7
Total 11 32 12 55

2.1.1 Perquisites of Using a 3D Body Scanner

The development of the 3D body scanner has rendered obsolete the tedious body
measurement procedures that most customers disliked. Furthermore, it has improved
fit and appearance, two critical factors to consider when purchasing clothing [12].
Using the digital scanner, customers can quickly determine whether a product is
appropriate from an aesthetic standpoint. The design and other embellishments
complement the human body and the fit properties, such as how well it will fit the
human figure and its drape properties. So, 3D body scanners give clothing makers
and customers a quick alternative to traditional methods of measuring that take a lot
of time.

3 Advanced Technology in Apparel CAD

The invention of computer-aided design (CAD) can be traced back to 1970 when
CAMSCO first introduced the world to the system. Lectra began working with
Garment CAD in the 1980s, and many retailers had automatic spreaders and marker
makers in their possession by the end of 1993. Marker-making efficiency was drasti-
cally improved at this time [13]. Since then, the CAD system has improved to provide
us with several modern-day solutions to the apparel manufacturing trend. Clothing
manufacturers and stores use many new technologies today, like virtual fitting rooms,
virtual sampling and e-fitting, intelligent CAD systems, and many others.

3.1 Virtual Fitting Rooms

A present-day approach to apparel retail is embracing the new technology called

Virtual Fitting Rooms (VFRs), which allows consumers to try on apparel prod-
ucts and mix or match accessories without being physically present at the shop or
factory in the case of sampling. VFR can provide a real-time solution to a prob-
able time-consuming and cumbersome activity of choosing the right product that
is appropriate in all aspects necessary. 3D graphics technology is applied with an
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 181

integrated computer-aided platform that enables the prospective consumer not only
to check the fit properties of the product but also to manipulate it with various trims,
accessories, and design-based criteria. A 2D cad pattern of actual garments is used
in such a way in this advanced technology that it grants the consumer the appetite to
try the exact clothes virtually. The prominent players in the virtual fitting room arena
are Microsoft Kinetics and Asus Xiton Pro-Live. The interfaces of different brands
give us a wide range of good virtual platforms to choose from [14].

3.2 Virtual Sampling and Approval

Modern technologies like Garber Tech’s 3D DirectTM have introduced us to the idea
that clothing designs can be developed on mannequins or natural human bodies and
then be flattened into a 2D CAD system for visualization and further manipulation.
Lectra’s virtual fashion prototyping solution, Modaris 3D Fit, facilitates pattern-
makers in controlling the fit properties of a garment with sheer accuracy. That way,
approval of styles and specifications can be done only within a short time instead of
doing this manually for days. It allows garment manufacturers to sew their products
virtually as an electronic copy of the product and get approval without any physical
prototype being prepared. Another modern adaptation of apparel manufacturers is
3D virtual sampling, with which the projection of garments and fabric drapes is
possible on a 3D avatar. With this technology, manufacturers can change a garment’s
design, the fabric’s properties, and any other embellishments on a 3D fit model.
The technology can furthermore help cut down on the lead time and cost of making
physical prototypes, making the process more efficient [15].

4 Intelligent Apparel CAD Systems

4.1 Parametric Design

Parametric Design in Apparel, CAD helps pattern and marker makers by eliminating
the sequence of modifications that are generally needed while changing a single
parameter in a garment’s pattern. For instance, while a parametric model of the
coat is designed in the parametric design interface, if the measurement of the waist
circumference needs to be changed, then other corresponding specifications like front
and rear armhole curves alter themselves automatically, and users are not required
to do all those modifications on their own [16].
182 J. Sarkar et al.

4.2 Combination of Artificial Intelligence and CAD

By combining artificial intelligence (AI) into the CAD system, an intelligent CAD
interface can be developed, making decisions by itself while pattern making. AI-
integrated CAD works automatically by using data from various CAD files and
resources or previously stored data and provides expert suggestions while making
patterns and new designs. This intelligent CAD system allows pattern makers to
develop sophisticated ways even with moderate knowledge of CAD interfaces. Also,
the system helps by reducing the pattern-making time [16].

5 Automation in Spreading Process

5.1 Automatic Spreading Machine

Automatic spreading machines, which guarantee tension-free spreading by providing

feeding and transportation mechanisms over the spreading tables, are less laborious
and time-consuming than the manual process. As a result, the demand for high-speed
spreading machines is increasing daily to reduce the workload and labor force without
changing working principles [17]. Fully automated spreading machines of different
functionalities for different textiles are manufactured by many companies in several
countries, such as Lectra (France), Gerber (United States), Kuris (Germany), Bullmer
(Germany), Phillips (U.K.), Eastman (United States), Unicraft Corporation (United
States), Cosmotex (Spain), Ottoman (Spain), Morgan Tecnica (Italy), F.K. Group
(Italy), B.K.R. Italia (Italy), Caron Technology (Italy), Ozbilim (Turkey), Tukatech
(India), Shimaseiki (Japan), and Oshima (Taiwan) [8].

5.1.1 Main Parts of Automatic Fabric Spreading Machine

An automated spreading machine has several main parts: a fabric spreader truck, a
fabric feed system, an automatic cutting device, an end-catcher, an operator’s stand
panel, an encoder system, and a control panel.
• Spreading Table
An automatic spreading table, unlike a manual one, can withstand the load of a fully
equipped spreader. The perforated table surface is installed with an air floatation
mechanism for lifting the load while shifting or an air suction system to keep the
layers in place.
• Fabric Spreader Truck
In a spreading table, the spreader truck moves in longitudinal and transverse direc-
tions to ensure the transportation of fabric rolls. It has two main parts: a body and a
turret.
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 183

Generally, the spreader truck body fixed on wheels confirms lengthways trans-
portation of fabric rolls over the spreading table. The spreader truck carries various
distinct devices, such as a cutter, a zigzag spreading device, a tubular fabric spreading
device, and a fabric tearing device. After laying a defined length of fabric, the spreader
truck stops and reverses direction. According to fabric types and characteristics,
spreader truck speed can be adjusted.
The turret of the spreader truck can move up to 15 cm laterally, ensuring the
crossways transportation of fabric rolls to attain the perfect alignment of individual
fabric edges on the table.
• Fabric Feed System
The fabric feed system manages the threading, rewinding, loading, and unloading
of fabric roll materials from a unique cradle or setting bar. Tension-free spreading
can be achieved by the synchronized speed of the spreader and cradle feed system.
While spreading fabric, automatic adjustments of the feeding rate of the material
and measurement of its length are conducted by the fabric feed system. Among
different fabric feeding systems, cradle-type and bar fabric feeding systems are most
prominent in terms of usability. The most common cradle-type fabric feeding systems
are multi-belt cradles, single conveyor belt cradles, and multi-roll cradles. The main
types of bar fabric feeding systems are free bar and motorized bar [8].
• Automatic Cutting Device
An automatic cutting device that can be sharpened automatically runs along with the
spreader truck during the spreading process. As per the direction from the operator,
a round knife automatically locomotes across the table and cuts the fabric off. The
cutting process may be completed in one direction or both ways. The cutting speed can
be adjusted to meet your needs. A height-detection sensor that works automatically
has been added to find the smallest space between the tabletop and the cutting tool
so that there are no wrinkles in the laying process.
• End-catcher
During fabric spreading, an end-catcher is used to hold the laid fabric plies and
prevent them from moving. It is primarily helpful for slippery fabrics.
• Operator Stand Panel
A unique platform with an adjustable seat permits the operator to travel alongside
the table at the time of fabric spreading. No operator is required in the case of fully
automated spreading.
• Encoder System
An encoder system drives and controls the fully automatic fabric spreading process.
On one side of the table is a special belt with metal spikes. The encoder system
counts the number of spikes and recalculates the distance from the starting point in
meters or inches.
184 J. Sarkar et al.

• Interactive Control Panel

An interactive control panel is used to set up parameters and program the fabric
spreading process. A spreading machine can run basic, block, and step distribution
programs.
In addition, open-width fabric spreading has already been discussed. Still,
spreading machines for folded fabric processing, spreading machines for tubular
fabrics, and spreading machines for home textiles are also being used for specific
functionality.
Another impressive and mostly needed feature of modern and automated
spreading systems is automated fabric fault registration and management systems.
Provided the spreading machine is integrated with this system, the spreading device
can detect textile flaws in the spreading process in the same way as manual spreading
procedures. This procedure uses splice marks in a marker and a fault registration
system. Gerber’s “Flaw Management System” is a popular automated fabric fault
registration and management system. Detecting fabric faults automatically by this
system is advantageous, especially in minimizing fabric waste [8]. Besides these
commonly used systems of spreading, there are also some uncommon ways and
modifications of the spreading system for ease of use which some manufacturers
follow. For example,
• Horizontal surface spreaders are moveable and vertical surface spreading tables
use gravity to straighten the fabric grain, and the table’s surface is pivoted to a
horizontal position before the cutting process.
• The Veith pin table facilitates a gantry loader where fabric rolls can be hung from
the top side while being carried by a trolley over the table’s surface.
• The pre- and post-processes of spreading have also undergone various evolutions.
• Automatic loading and doffing of fabric rolls into the spreader from the rack
reduces time and avoids occupational injuries.
• Air-flotation tables create an air cushion and lessen friction between the table’s
surface and the layer of fabric, and this technique can transport most light materials
to medium weight.
• Conveyorized tables have moving conveyors used to transport heavy-weight fabric
laid.
• Roller surface tables are effectively used for dragging the lanes of stiff fabrics
without distortion.
• Storing layers of fabric in a vertical storage rack is another feature that is gaining
popularity for its low volume and multi-style operations.

6 Automation in Cutting Process

Like manual and semi-automatic cutting processes, complete automation is applied to

cut single or multiple layers of materials. It varies from lightweight to heavy-weight
industrial fabrics. This cutting device consists of several pieces of equipment. It
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 185

Fig. 1 The schematic

diagram of an automated
cutting system. Reprinted
with permission from [8]

includes primarily a cutting table classified as a static or conveyor table. It has a

cutting machine fixed on a carriage and a beam (also known as a gantry, crossbar, or
cutting bridge) to transport the carriage over the cutting surface. This machine also
consists of a control panel and a working plane to regulate the cutting system. Figure 1
shows the schematic diagram of an automated cutting system. Two synchronized
servo motors are used to shift the gantries (beams) along the horizontal axis of the
cutting table (X-axis). The third one moves the carriage on the crossbar covering
the width of the cutting table (Y-axis). While performing the cutting process, the
fourth motor helps rotate the cutting tool [19]. If it is needed to move the cutting
machine vertically, an extra motor is introduced to finish the cutting process. The
provision of rolled material handling (roll-feeding systems) is also available with this
system, which is further classified as an unwind (feeding) device, a roll-up device,
and an extended component folder. Different computer-controlled cutting devices are
employed in combination or individually (e.g., laser cutting head with two knives,
laser, ultrasound, or laser cutting head, plasma, or waterjet) to increase productivity
in the cutting room. In addition, automated ultrasonic cutting systems, blade cutters,
and ultrasonic tools are commonly used as automatic cutting systems. Several cutting
methods are used to cut the components made of technical textiles based on specific
requirements and necessities [19].

6.1 Automated Cutting Equipment

Multi-tool cutting head as shown in Fig. 2, is equipped with knives, drill punches,
notches, and markers. These are used to conduct numerous operations during the
cutting process. When choosing a cutting tool, several parameters are considered,
such as the cutting operations, the layout of the required outline, and the types of
materials.
186 J. Sarkar et al.

Fig. 2 Simplified scheme of

a cutting head. Reprinted
with permission from [19]

Fig. 3 Drag knife in cutting

process. Reprinted with
permission from [19]

6.2 Round Blade Knife

A rotary (circular, round) blade knife rolls over the materials during the cutting
process. The round cutter’s diameter depends on the materials’ properties and the
difficulty of cutting the outlines. Thinner materials can be cut accurately using small
diameter rotary blades (18 and 28 mm). In the case of thick materials, when precise
cutting is not mandatory, large diameters (45, 60, and 75 mm) may be used. A blade
with a diameter of 28 mm is usually used to cut different materials.

6.3 Drag Knife

It has an angled blade that is sharp and can be used for precise cutting of contours,
notches, tiny circles, and edges. It can be angled between 30 and 60°. The blade angle
is selected according to the properties of the material. The larger the blade angle, the
thinner the material. Figure 3 shows the drag knife in operation.

6.4 Reciprocating Knife

A straight knife’s vertical up-and-down movement in a regular pattern is considered

an oscillating or reciprocating knife during material cutting. It provides only linear
motion, and oscillation occurs at a constant interval. The cutting table surface must
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 187

Fig. 4 Cutting process of a

reciprocating knife.
Reprinted with permission
from [8]

be kept soft so the blade can penetrate through the table. Lays of multiple plies, thick
material, and intricate shapes can be cut by applying this kind of knife. The cutting
process of a reciprocating knife is represented in Fig. 4.

6.5 Punch

A punch is used in a cutting process where tiny round holes are needed in cut
materials and cannot be completed by other cutting devices. Punches with diameters
of 0.5–10 mm are used to make holes of different sizes.
To mark the cut component, several methods, such as pen marking, inkjet marking,
airbrush marking, and adhesive labels, are used in automatic knife-cutting systems.
Similarly, for the easy and effective identification and off-loading (kitting) of cut
components, methods such as preprinted marker, off-load screen/display, overhead
projector, and marking on the cut component surface can be used depending on the
necessity and requirements [19].

7 Advanced Technologies in Apparel Production System

With the advancement of technology and the fast fashion concept, the apparel manu-
facturing environment has changed significantly compared with the fashion industry
in the 1980s. A noticeable seasonal increase forces fashion stores to reduce their
average design and lead time from months to weeks [20]. The apparel manu-
facturing industry deals with rapid production, variations in order quantity, and
volatile customer demand. To avoid the possibility of inventory holding, retailers
are demanding small but recurring replenishments of orders. To stay in business in
a market with so much competition, clothing manufacturers must choose the right
production system [21].
The apparel production system is “an integration of material handling, production
processes, personnel, and equipment” [20]. Production of the whole garment system
188 J. Sarkar et al.

is the most common apparel manufacturing system. But this system is less productive
and highly labor-intensive, not seen much in the modern production unit. But haute
couture seamstresses and traditional tailors use this production method, where one
person sews all the cut pieces together to make the final product [22].

7.1 Types of Production Systems

Different organizations follow several advanced production systems, but no system

is accepted widely. Each of the production systems is distinct and requires a specific
working environment. Though every production system is different, they all should
meet two essential criteria: the product’s quality and the system’s cost-effectiveness.
Among numerous production systems, five production systems are commonly used:
Progressive Bundle System (PBS), Modular Production System (MPS), Unit Produc-
tion System (UPS), Unit Synchro Production System (USPS), and Transporter
System (TS) [23].
• Progressive Bundle System (PBS)
The progressive bundle system has been widely used in the apparel industry for
several decades. In this system, each operator is assigned to perform a single or
few operations, and bundles are made by tying cut pieces together [24]. Bundles are
transferred to the next operator to complete another procedure. This system allows
operators to produce garment products at a higher speed with greater productivity.
However, ample storage space and the difference between total throughput time and
actual run-time are the most challenging parts of this system. The success of the PBS
will depend on how well this system is set up and used in a production unit [25].
• Unit Production System (UPS)
In the 1960s, Inge Davidson established the UPS model and summarized that eighty
percent of the production costs are related to material handling, and only twenty
percent are associated with direct manufacturing costs. Other than the bundle system,
where materials are transported from one place to another manually with a human’s
help, this system is an automated overhead rail transportation system where a hanging
carrier is used to move individual units from one operator to another [26]. As a result,
work-in-process and manufacturing throughput times are remarkably reduced. Yet,
most manufacturers argue that UPS is suitable for a mass production system rather
than a line that demands style variation [21].
• Modular Production System (MPS)
Though it originated in the 1980s, the Modular Production System (MPS), also known
as Cellular Manufacturing [27], is considered one of the newest production systems.
Garment manufacturers are forced to experiment with this system for several reasons:
increased pressure from the market to shorten lead times, reduction of product devel-
opment cycles, high operation flexibility, severe competition in product lines from
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 189

low-wage countries, etc. Cross-training techniques are applied in a modular system

where a group of trained multi-skilled operators with a minimum of machines is
employed to manufacture high-quality garments [28]. In a specific group, operators
work on single or multiple operations; they are allowed to move from one station to
another. When this system is used, it cuts down on throughput time and reduces the
amount of inventory that needs to be kept, which saves money in the long run.
• Unit Synchro Production System (USPS)
Since the 1950s, the Unit Synchro Production System (USPS) has been used univer-
sally, especially in the Japanese apparel manufacturing industry. USPS comprises
different modules in which a specific garment component is a particular module’s
responsibility. To achieve the desired line balancing, the module layout is planned
carefully, considering operations processing time. Modules process the garment
details simultaneously, and a conveyor belt is used to move the semi-processed prod-
ucts to the next module. Processing of semi-processed products is then completed
to form a final product. To make sure that production goes smoothly, a visual signal
called Kanban is used to keep a close eye on it [20].
• Transporter System (TS)
The transport system model is developed using a set of conveyors, which are installed
between two sewing workstation rows. This system is best suited for manufacturing
small garments. As stated by AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturers Association,
1988), TS is a production system where “bundles of work-in-process are carried
in tote boxes, which are staged between operations in a flow rack”. “Tote boxes
are removed from storage, placed on the conveyor, and routed to the operator as
needed.” When an operator finishes processing a bundle, it is shifted back to the
original tote boxes and sent to a subsequent operation. A specific operator maintains
tote box distribution. TS provides several advantages to manufacturers, including a
reduced manual effort in material transportation, efficient and fast material transport,
a computer tracking system, and real-time production information [29].

7.2 Comparison Among Production Systems

Kincade and Kanakadurga [28] suggested five criteria for defining production
systems:
• The flow of work
• Retrieval of methods
• Work-in-progress (WIP) inventory
• Interaction among operators
• The number of assigned tasks per operator
The flow of work can be categorized as push and pull systems. In the push
system, garment components are moved from machine to machine, whereas in the
190 J. Sarkar et al.

pull system, the operator works depending on the demand of the subsequent opera-
tion. Among the five production systems, PBS, UPS, USPS, and TS follow a push
system, and only in the MPS workflow is it maintained using a pull system. “Method
of retrieval” means how garment components are forwarded to the following oper-
ation. In the PBS and MPS systems, operators are employed to transport members
from one place to another. But in UPS, USPS, and TS, Conveyors or carts are used
to shift garment parts to the subsequent section. Due to the nature of the PBS and
TS, WIP inventory is high compared to other methods like UPS, MPS, and USPS.
PBS, UPS, and TS are analogous in assigning tasks to operators. They offer a single
job to a single operator. Interaction between operators is not needed in PBS, UPS,
and TS. At the same time, teamwork is most important for MPS and USPS.

8 Advanced Technologies in Sewing

The production processes in assembling apparel are classified into two subdivisions:
handling material and fabric components and joining. In apparel production, notice-
able labor and time are utilized in handling material, like moving, lifting, reposi-
tioning, re-orientating, and mounting semi-finished or cut components of fabric. To
ensure better quality, it is necessary to manage seams precisely and gently [30].
In commercial workstations, material loading is done manually, while sewing and
unloading processes are automated [31].
Working with fabric is more challenging than rigidly handling materials. Fabrics
can easily deform without being permitted, even under very light pressure such as air
resistance or dead weight. A recent report shows that manual handling occurs 79%
of the time during the assembly of products, while the remaining 21% of industries
apply semi-automated systems [32]. No industry yet automatically handles materials.
During the time it takes to make a piece of clothing, handling takes up about 80% of
the total time, and this cost affects almost 80% of the factory’s costs [33].
Several gripping techniques exist, such as vacuum grippers, needle grippers,
Bernoulli grippers, or roller systems [32]. In vacuum grippers, the gripping compo-
nents are joined to a pneumatic pump by maintaining a connection with the material
of the gripping [34]. The variance of pressure permits the element of gripping to stick
to the pads of suction. Bernoulli grippers provide contact-free gripping by directly
producing an effect of Bernoulli using compressed air. In needle grippers, needles
penetrate the components at an angle and are then interlocked with the element for
gripping. Roller systems often use surface and freezing grippers that create limited
adhesion by using details of Peltier and electrostatic effects.
Recently developed technologies for gripping are still not accessible in assembling
textile products. Szimmat confirmed that 28% of present semi-automated handling
systems employ needles or scrap grippers [32]. A similar application was the picking
pad, illustrated by a running project at Spanish AB Industries. In this technology,
material pieces will float around 1'' over a bristle-structured surface area of the table.
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 191

It will let a robotic arm with a 360-degree reach carefully pick up the secular pieces
with the help of an important gripping part.
Sewing is the most powerful technology for apparel joining, representing around
85% of all methods of joining [33]. The sewing process now relies on highly skilled
manual operators for sewing operations, responsible for 35–40% of the overall cost
[33]. Over the past decades, sewn apparel manufacturers have reduced production
costs by relocating production facilities to developing regions with lower wages.
This business strategy is close to the end of its existence due to changed situations
in the market. Labor costs are swiftly increasing in many developing countries.
Besides, there exists a global lack of a skillful workforce. Customers’ behavior
also fluctuates more rapidly than before due to changing trends in fashion. Thus,
apparel manufacturing companies are in desperate need of advancements in sewing
technology.
The standard and broadly accepted automatic configuration of the sewing method
was the traditional sewing machine placed on the material processing machinery
as a calendaring or winding unit. This configuration was used for edge finishing,
fabric roll joining, or making a tubular structure from a fabric roll. A mobile sewing
machine series is available for this type of configuration. Pneumatic power distribu-
tion is used in a few sewing units to involve wet processes during sewing operations
simultaneously. The popular types of stitch used for these applications are 100, 400,
and 500 as sewing machines for these types of stitch have a continuous bottom supply
of thread which doesn’t require machine stoppage for thread loading.
An automated system for changing the bobbin is an advanced method for
increasing sewing efficiency. During continuous sewing with lock stitch machines
having stitch type 301, a filled bobbin can be used for less than 20 min, and frequent
bobbin changes create a notorious bottleneck during sewing [31]. The automated
system, however, is established on two conjugated principles: checking the existing
bobbin thread amount and then altering it with a loaded bobbin after the pre-fixed
remaining thread amount is achieved.
Japanese company Kinoshita developed a magazine-oriented automated changer
for the bobbin. Here, filled bobbins are primarily loaded onto the magazines. After
that, magazines are joined to the sewing machine. A magazine of 8-bobbin can survive
up to two and a half hours. This is useful for thick stitching thread and for regularly
replacing the lower thread. It is favorable for apparel where thread overlapping is
restricted during stitching. In addition to making the machine run more quickly, this
automated bobbin changer helps prevent stitching mistakes and eases the operator’s
mind [31].
RSG Automation Technics GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, illustrated a complete
automated exchanger of the bobbin. This company’s patented checker of bobbin
uses a distinct bobbin coded with certain RGB color combinations. When the bobbin
whirls during machine operations, a light sensor regulates the sequence of colors
and detects unusual movement of the bobbin or errors when it runs out of threads.
This technology leads to the least stoppage of production as the sewing machine gets
stopped for only six to eight seconds every time there is a bobbin change.
192 J. Sarkar et al.

The automated sewing principles change according to the sewing path geometry.
2D seams can be easily created using Computer Numerical Control technology of
sewing, where any single or double mobile heads of sewing advance over apparel
within the programmed path of the seam. In complicated cases, such as converting
2D fabrics into different categories of 3D seams, a robot guides the head of sewing
in 3D space within the sewing paths. In contrast, the corresponding fabrics are fixed
and positioned in a 3D shape. In fact, in many cases where two or more pieces
of material have a difference in curvatures or contours within the seam line to be
attached, this seam type must be handled by fixed positioning of the 3D materials
and implementing different tensions in every stitch within the fabrics.
In the case of the 2D configuration of sewing, one or more layers of apparel
are stitched within fixed frames. Flexible handling of the material is neglected by
clamping different fabric pieces into the holders, which guide the head of sewing
into horizontal and vertical axes following a programmed seam contour. This config-
uration of sewing is mainly applied to ornamental seams and design seams. Large
machines can handle a 3 × 3 m2 sewing area, whereas small machines can only
handle 10 × 10 cm2 [33]. Large CNC sewing machines are used for blanket or
mattress quilting. Usually, a small-scale machine is used for automatically stitching
care and brand labels on apparel.
Current developments within automated systems of sewing are restricted to
specific operations. Different commercial semi-automatic sewing machines and
units are available from Japan’s Juki Corp., Germany’s Durkopp Adler AG, and
Italy’s RIMAC Srl. Juki illustrated an automated sewing machine series for button
attaching, bartacks, and buttonholes. In contrast, Rimac demonstrated an automatic
binding machine for finishing the round shape angles of automobile floor mats and
bedding. The piece of work is rotated along the slopes equipped with a motorized
arm to create a constant curve, and the textile tape is automatically pushed through
a feeding unit.
Durkopp Adler demonstrated a modular production system by illustrating a
sequence of pockets having double welts. Welt pockets are created using a 2-needle
head lock stitch machine with a needle feed mechanism and a center knife cutter
[31]. Frames of sewing having a constant path of the seam are applied for template
sewing, where they clamp pieces of work during operation. In a semi-automated
configuration, the worker aligns and feeds the details to the system as per the process
requirement.
Automats for attaching pockets use a sewing machine jig with a stitch-type 301
lockstitch head of sewing, which may have variable features. In some models, the
creased pocket needs to be loaded by hand, while in some other models, the machine
does the creasing. The worker primarily loads the pocket in a clamp of creasing.
After that, he loads the leg component of the trouser in the loading area. Pressing the
actuator enables the clamp of creasing to crease the selected pocket. Then it comes
downwards and positions the creased pocket onto the leg of the trouser. Grasping the
designated pocket and leg assembly, an individual jig carries it to the head of sewing.
Thus, the stationery head of sewing in two non-parallel sewing bursts and bar-tacking
operations at both ends accomplish the attaching. There are options for working with
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 193

sewing threads of two different colors in two stitching rows. The securing possibility
of the cargo pouch pocket was demonstrated by Pfaff model 3588, where with or
without a flap, the cargo pouch pocket can be joined automatically [31].
Softwear Automation Inc., Atlanta, is providing significant contributions to the
automatic sewing arena with the invention of Sewbots. Its prominent technological
implementation is the integration of advanced computerized vision systems. Indi-
vidual threads are tracked at the needle, and precise fabric movement is coordinated
[31]. Sewbots use a 360-degree conveyor system and a robotic arm for handling the
fabric. A four-axis robotic arm uses a vacuum gripper to lift and place a fabric piece,
whereas a conveyor table feeds the fabric into the sewing unit. The table is constituted
with budgers spherical rollers embedded on the surface. Budgers help every piece of
fabric move smoothly on the table in any needed direction.
Quebec-based Automatex Inc., Terrebonne, illustrated a fully automatic pillow-
case manufacturing unit to accomplish sequential manufacturing processes of
folding, trimming, labeling, packaging, and stitching within a single unit. More-
over, similar systems have been demonstrated by the Italian MagetronSrl. and the
German Carl Schmale GmbH & Co.KG, and the German TEXPA Maschinenbau
GmbH & Co. for producing towels. Until now, commercially available production
systems with the fully automatic capability of production were confined to planar
apparel products like towels, sheets of bedding, and carpets.
Sewing heads are required to be placed on and controlled by the robots for 3D
sewing operations. Maintaining economic and flexible manufacturing is difficult
because many semi-automated machine steps and processes must be incorporated.
More requirements for investments and modern robotic systems are yet to be adopted
in apparel manufacturing lines. The production demonstration carried out by the
Italian ACG Kinna Automatic exhibited an excellent, futuristic display for the auto-
matic show. A fully automated system, Borsoi, uses robots to handle a 3D pillow.
Certainly, Borsoi was capable of picking up a case of a pillow, securing the opening
of the seam, stuffing the pillowcase, transporting the pillow, closing the opening, and
packing finished apparel in a bag in a single continuous line of production. All pieces
of work are handled and forwarded between tasks using clamps with robotic arms.
Completion of several tasks of production is the primary consideration in advanced
automatic sewing systems. Sewing machines need to be implemented within the
current flow of other operations in the assembly processes, like feeders for stuffing
or seam pressers. The automatic sewing systems’ configuration depends on the
product’s design and production plans, and every manufacturing system may need
to be customized for various textile products. Product standardization efforts would
minimize the burden. Moreover, companies like RSG Automation Technics provide
customization services for apparel production plants.
194 J. Sarkar et al.

8.1 Application of the Robotics Technology in Apparel

Sewing

Many costly apparel companies provide a higher level of automation, or robotics,

which offers the potential for replacing manually performed work steps, such as by
robots and automated devices for handling. A robot does not get tired and can continue
endless repetitive work with constant and accurate precision 24 h per day, except for
the time of repair and maintenance. This improves product quality and performance.
Besides, they can reduce human inefficiencies in the working environment as they
resist environmental pollution and can complete monotonous and difficult physical
work. Furthermore, removing manual handling reduces bottlenecks, which could
slow down the overall procedure [33, 35].
Many relevant research projects have been done. Among them, robots have been
utilized for guiding apparel. It is also suitable for the sewing process and movement
of the head of sewing. Robots haven’t yet been used to make composite materials
for clothing because they cost a lot to set up.
The cutting components can be tensioned within a 3D station, and the fabric is
sewn. This system was suitable for sewing the car seat and head cushion covers.
In the sewing area, the circumferential seams are sewn with the help of a robot. A
significant limitation of this system is the high investment cost because of the two
industrially used robots and the automatic turning and clamping devices. Also, the
system is not very flexible regarding different cutting geometries. For example, when
new molds are made for different designs of products, the robots used in the industry
must be reprogrammed by hand.
Robots have already been used to guide the heads of sewing machines. The four
most critical one-sided processes of sewing used in the case of composite fabric in
the modern day are all guided through a sewing portal and a robot. An industrially
usable robot can get access to a wide variety of effectors, like
(a) Different systems of gripper
(b) Blind stitch, Tufting, and ITA one-sided head of the sewing
(c) Binder application process
(d) Laser sensors and camera for controlling quality.
In the case of the robot-guided process of sewing, the piece of work is guided by
an industrial robot. In this method, a sewing cell comprises an industrial C-frame
type sewing machine and two robot arms showing the work’s lower and upper pieces.
Finally, robots grip the material, and then the material is fed to the patch of the joint.
Simultaneously, the sensors monitor the sewn edge, and an analog board controls the
robot arms in real time. The disadvantages of this process are the minimal possible
curvature radius of the sections of the seam and the industrial robots’ restricted areas
of work.
An automatic sewing cell was demonstrated where the Norwegian community of
research, Scandinavia (SINTEF) research organization, TU Trondheim, and many
Norwegian organizations took part. The enclosure is made up of two robots with
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 195

mechanical grippers, and they are equipped with some force sensors. The tension of
the apparel is constantly regulated and monitored by these sensors during sewing.
Industrial robots are controlled by a particular type of software consisting of a Linux
computer, the System of Robot Operation, and many low-level controllers. The edge
sensor maintains robot movements in real time [36]. This sewing cell’s components
of cut-for-armchair covers can easily be sewn in two layers.
In 2016, a robot-based system for sewing named SEWBO was developed by
Sewbo, Inc., Seattle, US. This industrial robot automatically sewed all-important T-
shirt seams for the very first time. This was possible because the apparel was treated
with a water-soluble polymer and turned stiff from this pre-treatment. The rigidity of
the apparel helps the robot guide the apparel through the process like a solid material.
The use of robotics and automation helps in enhancing quality as well as efficiency.
It is a costly process and needs changes in the program while handling different
garment styles.

8.2 Advanced Technologies in Quality Monitoring System

of Fabrics and Garment Seams

Generally, fabrics are inspected to detect defects before being sent to the apparel
section. At the time of inspection, points are given based on the severity of the defect.
After calculating based on the inspection system employed, the overall acceptance
or rejection of the fabric is determined. Among different inspection systems, 4-point,
10-point, and Dallas systems are mainly used as fabric inspection systems. Fabric
with few flaws ensures that the garments are of higher quality, lowering the rate of
rejection and ensuring that they are delivered on time [37, 38].
Machine vision plays the most significant role as the advanced technology or
automation in the fabric detection system. The machine vision system consists of the
following equipment:
(a) Camera(s)
(b) A Lighting system or another imager
(c) Processor
(d) Software
(e) Output device.

8.2.1 Quality Monitoring of Fabrics

Detection and defect classification methods can be further classified as quality moni-
toring methods. There are a lot of categorical classification methods for defect
detection methods,like statistical, spectral, and model [39]; statistical, structural,
filter-based, and model-based [40]; motif- and non-motif-based approaches [41],
etc.
196 J. Sarkar et al.

Furthermore, autoregressive spectral analysis (AR) [42], adaptive pulse-coupled

neural network (PCNN) and ridgelet transformation [43], and a method based on local
contrast deviations [44] are also used in quality monitoring of fabrics. In addition,
some methods are based on the use of regular bands (RB) and independent component
analysis (ICA) for the improvement of Gabor wavelet defect detection [45] and
singular value decomposition (SVD) [46] are also used.
The defect classification methods can be classified into different categories. The
most important of these are support vector machines (SVM), clustering methods,
statistical inference, and artificial neural networks (ANN) [47].

8.2.2 Quality Monitoring of Seams

The quality of the seam mainly depends on factors such as the materials to be sewn,
the sewing needle, the sewing thread, and the processing techniques [48]. Therefore,
to monitor the seam quality, machine parameters and optical seam quality measuring
principles are considered effective methods to check and ensure the quality of seams.
A commercial system developed by Dürkopp Adler AG, Bielefeld, Germany, is
capable of documenting the sewing process that works with thread-based sewing
machines. Compared to other textile production and processing fields, the sewing
field has less use of sensor-based detection methods. But some methods are used for
some specific applications.
An ultrasonic measuring method for seam curling can successfully be assessed
and recorded without any contact. Infrared and microwave sensors can detect the
materials being sewn. In contrast, optoelectric and optical sensors are used to eval-
uate the movement and changes relating to sewing machine control components or
the sewing thread. Moreover, optoelectronic systems can also detect structural devia-
tions, surface texture changes, and stiffness. An offline laser triangular sensor can be
used for the optical control of crimping intensities. Strain gauges, infrared sensors,
or thermos-sensors were used to measure the temperature of the needle. Piezoelectric
sensors were used to measure the movement of the upper thread, etc. [47].
• Quality Monitoring System for Seam Puckering
Seam puckering is one of the most notorious problems in seams. In addition to other
factors, the most important factor in seam puckering is the wrong machine parameter
setting. To evaluate seam puckering, devices with optical measuring principles are
widely used. A 2D process is such a process where the principle of the shadow is
used in pattern recognition [49]. Similarly, photogrammetry employs two cameras to
record the object [47]. Figure 5 shows the schematic diagram of a photogrammetry
method. In addition, laser triangulation and the development of punctual laser trian-
gular processes, namely the light-section technique, are used where the laser and
sensor play a significant role in measuring and detecting [47].
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 197

Fig. 5 Schematic structure

of a photogrammetry unit for
detecting a wrinkle on a
textile surface. Reprinted
with permission from [47]

• Quality Monitoring of Welded Seams

Unlike the sewn seams, the welded seams remain invisible. As a result, the proper
assessment of this type of seam is always a challenge. Therefore, as seams prepared
by welding technology play an essential role in the world market, the proper quality
monitoring of welded seams is also necessary. For tape welding machines, the
technology for temperature control is patented by PFAFF Industriesysteme und
Maschinen AG, Kaiserslautern, Germany. This technology can enhance the quality
of the tape-welded seams. Furthermore, in cooperation with PFAFF Industriesys-
teme und Maschinen AG, the Institut für Textiltechnik, RWTH Aachen University,
Germany, developed a closed-loop control to improve the quality of the seams made
by welding [47].

9 Sew-Free Technologies

Sewing is the art of fastening, joining, or attaching any object using various stitches
made with thread and needles. The sewing of apparel gathers the layers of fabric
by thread incorporation, which is limited by the length of thread being fed to the
sewing machine so that it enables a specific durability amount. Sewing has been
used as one of the oldest textile crafts and has been the basis for garment production
and construction since then. But using hot melt or thermoplastic adhesive films has
started to change how clothes are made and pave the way for the next generation of
cut-and-sew.
Seam sealing, or sew-free seam technology, is a procedure of sealing the seam
up, generally with a tape or coat made of silicone to waterproof the corresponding
seam. But, with the advent of adhesive tapes with elastomeric properties, the extra
198 J. Sarkar et al.

coating step has been eliminated, and the tape directly gets fused over the seam,
eliminating the need for stitching. It is a prudent yet strong bond. It can also be
used in available garments for attaching panels, side seams, plackets and pockets,
seam overlapping, hems, necklines, panty gusset folding over, pockets patch-on,
panels compression, bonding of panel-to-panel, etc. These special adhesive tapes with
elastomeric properties made it possible to get sew-free seaming. These elastomeric
tapes generate the adhesive under pressure and heat by melting fabrics through the
structure. The activation of the elastomeric adhesive can be performed through the
pressing of an iron or seam-sealing machine. It can bond almost all non-fleece fabrics
(cotton, polyester, leather membrane, nylon, etc.) with some limitations, such as
porous materials like fleece and silicone [50–52].
Sew-free seaming technologies were primarily used in intimate apparel products
to join fabrics over the elastics in ladies’ bras [53] and to create a smooth feel and
appearance by keeping seams as flat as possible. Successive outputs in intimate
apparel products and the advantages of weight reduction, a slimmer profile, and
increased resistance to water caught the eyes of outerwear apparel manufacturers. At
present, sew-free seaming technologies are broadly used in the sportswear industry.
Performance apparel, fitted and activewear, such as apparel for cycling or running,
apparel for yoga, and many other available apparel products are necessary for a
smooth feeling when used next to the skin to minimize the possibility of chafing.
Due to this technology, technical outerwear is becoming lighter and more form-
fitting while retaining the latest development in being breathable and waterproof.
This technology has been used in shoes, bags, medical materials, protective gloves,
camping tents, and other things, such as waterproof seam sealing, stitch-free pocket
adhesive, zipper bonding, front zip sealing, joining of fabric, bonding of line, taping
of overlay, and using adhesive backing for woven labels and embroidery.
Industries are now branding and promoting sew-free seaming as a value-added
service in their respective garments. It is advantageous in both aesthetic and technical
aspects. Sewn clothing also has 15% less GSM than sewn clothing. The foundation
for such claims is that materials are less overlapped in this case, and the seam joining
requires no thread. Less overlapping materials also means the sew-free garments
can be quickly stitched, reducing fabric waste. The sew-free seaming technology is
used with seamless knitting. While the two technologies are quite different, they can
be used together. Seamless knitting machines are used to make clothes that don’t
have any needle holes or stitches. The ruined clothes are prepared with sew-free
technology.

9.1 Welding Technology

Welding is the seam sealing and thermal bonding of thermoplastic woven, knitted, and
nonwoven materials without using chemicals, adhesives, needles, staples, or thread
binders. Heat, pressure, and speed are the three principles for carrying out welding.
This arranged combination of these three principles helps one get an adequately
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 199

welded seam in thermoplastic materials by continuous film sealing or fabric point

bonding. The welding efficiency of a woven fabric is affected by the density of
yarn, thermoplastic content, incorporated tightness, and material thickness unifor-
mity. In contrast, the randomly oriented fibers in nonwoven fabrics provide excellent
bond strength. In knit fabrics, the style, as well as construction elasticity, affect
the power of the bond. Materials that are coated are most often welded for seam
sealing. The coating nature, the thickness of the film, and other substrate charac-
teristics are necessary variables in such cases. Materials suitable for the welding
technique processing include mainly 100% synthetic fibers such as nylon, polypropy-
lene, polyester, polyethylene, acrylics which are modified, some vinyl, film, urethane,
coated paper, and synthetic blends having 35–50% non-synthetic content of fiber.
Heat generation methods are also used [54].
The technology consists of the two most common methods: hot air welding and
hot wedge welding. In the case of hot air welding, a nozzle of hot air delivers heat,
whereas, in hot wedge welding, a promptly controlled wedge at high temperature
is injected between two or more thermoplastic material layers. Thus, the thermo-
plastic is heated, and the two surfaces for bonding molecules are prepared. Other
methods include laser welding, ultrasonic welding, and radio frequency welding.
A comparatively less common way of bonding is through the impact techniques of
welding.
By producing sealed edges and no stitch holes in the seams, welding prevents
the absorption of chemicals, different liquids, blood-borne pathogens, or various
particulates. It provides an advantage over traditional stitching procedures.
• Hot Air Fabric Welding
Hot air welding is mainly used in sealing seams by using tape through the hot air tape
welding machines. Traditional stitched seams have tiny holes for needles; these seams
can be closed, waterproofed, and windproofed by taping. Fabrics that have been laser
or ultrasonically cut and filled can also be taped for a smooth and comfortable finish
and reinforcement. Sealed seams are often used in sportswear, outdoor gear (like
hiking, skiing, marine, climbing, and fishing gear), diving suits, military equipment,
and suits for handling dangerous materials [55].
• Hot Wedge Fabric Welding
In hot wedge welding, a small metal wedge delivers heat to the fabric just before
it enters between the drive wheels, where the fabric is sealed together by applying
pressure.
• Ultrasonic Welding
Ultrasonic welding technology is probably one of the most diversified applications.
In this technology, sealing, slitting, forming, and converting textiles into garments or
other apparel is done by using ultrasonic energy. It is used for disposable protective
clothing, covers, and clothes from the medical sector; filters; roller blinds; lingerie
items; and outdoor apparel. The molecular and interfacial abrasion that results from
this process produces heat, which enables the material to soften and fuse adjacent
200 J. Sarkar et al.

layers. This stitchless sewing technique has benefits like speed, seam width (up to
5 mm), flexible material movement (left, right, electronic, or mechanical), program-
ming and sealing, cutting, decorative seam crimping, and welding, all in one step
[56].
• Plunge Welding
Plunge cutting or welding is a batch process where the fabrics are placed onto a fixed
anvil, the horn falls on it, and the layers are fused in the seam design of the moveable
anvil. Cutting and sealing of the edges occur at the same time. All eye shields and
tapes are joined to a surgical face mask, and ties are joined to a nonwoven medical
gown; all use the plunge welding technique. Other applications include punching
holes in buttons, bra straps, buckles, darts, belt loops, collar stays, and zipper stops.
One more technology is where molecular, and interface abrasions are caused by
high-frequency mechanical oscillations in the attaching zone. The technology usually
generates the required welding heat and helps plasticize the fabric. In addition, it
allows for cooling times while maintaining the pressure of welding, regarded as
ultrasonic roll seam welding. The only disadvantage is that it can only be used for
garments containing thermoplastic fibers.

9.2 Bonding Technology

Welding technology is based on thermal joining, and bonding technology is based on

chemical or liquid glue adhesion. It typically uses an adhesive between two adjacent
layers of materials, and bonding occurs through the effects of heat, moisture, and
pressure. Depending on the textile type to be welded, different kinds of adhesives
like spray glues or hot melt adhesives are used. This technology is also used for
the insertion hole sealing done by the needles. Applications are mainly in medical
apparel, sportswear, and protective clothing [57–59].
The adhesives used in bonding technology are mainly adhesives that are heat
melted, known as Thermo Plastic Adhesives (TPA). Depending on the fabric and
fiber properties, different kinds of TPA are used for bonding. For example, modified
polyamides are used in nylon fabric bonding, which has the same monomer units as
nylon fiber. In the same way, adhesives of modified polyester are used for polyester
fabrics. These melted adhesives are flooded through the polyester fabric’s yarns and
then solidified when the cooling process is done. After a certain amount of time,
these glues harden and form a web between the yarn fibers.
Despite the early advantages of bonding over sewing, the bonding technology is
still in its infancy with its barriers. Firstly, bonding does not fruitfully work on fabrics
that are silicone washed because the silicone finish makes the bonding process quite
tricky due to its chemical properties unmatched by those of glue. Secondly, there are
no possibilities for alternative designs in welded or bonded garments. The machines
used for this purpose are costly and slow. These factors have limited the use of
bonding in apparel. However, leading lingerie and performance apparel brands use
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 201

welding technology in its product varieties. These include Adidas, Fila, Arc’Teryx,
Nike, Helly Hansen, O’Neill, Victoria’s Secret, and Patagonia. Yet, the usage of this
technology in regular wear is almost nonexistent.

9.3 Advantages of Sew-Free Technologies

Some of the benefits of making clothes without stitches by using a heat seal or other
methods are
(a) Seams may have optimum stretch and recovery while maintaining the glossy
and smooth profile in the seam and hem positions.
(b) The possibility of chafing is reduced, thus providing more comfort to the
consumer.
(c) Stitch-free seams can be up to 6% lighter than conventional stitched seams.
(d) Stitch-free seams will absorb 50–60% less of their weight in the wet condition,
excluding the threads soaking up liquids.
(e) In terms of strength, sew-free seams can be just as strong as sewn or even
stronger sometimes than sewn. In tensile strength tests, the fabric may tear
before the sew-free seam tears.
(f) Using a razor-thin molecular bonding process to replace a heat-sealed bond
stitched seam for waterproofing eliminates the need for extra seam-sealing
tape due to needle holes.
(g) There has to be a specific seam allowance for conventional garments to have a
proper seam with strength. Still, this technology will require no such allocation
as it will be bonded through the outline and reduce fabric consumption.
(h) It increases discreet property and expands the aesthetic appeal frontier.
(i) Bonding in dot format significantly enhances breathability and drops the weight
of water.
(j) More heat resistance enhanced wash performance and outstanding strength of
the bond.
(k) It unlocks design creativity while material utilization optimization and manu-
facturing are done.
(l) Less labor is required as it can combine several components in one step.
(m) Fewer steps are needed to make bonded apparel, and fewer components are
required to construct some clothing.

9.4 Disadvantages of Sew-Free Technologies

There are a few technical barriers to the seamless technique of being able to manu-
facture or knit every garment shape. These are manufactured by cutting and sewing
methods. The main disadvantages are as follows:
202 J. Sarkar et al.

(a) The main disadvantage of the sew-free garment is the need to take it down to
keep equal tension in each loop and stitch. As we know, the main problem occurs
most likely in the welt area or the cuff area.
(b) The machines that manufacture these garments are costly and require skilled
operators. So, sewn-free clothes are more expensive than seamed garments.
(c) Besides, there has been a significant disadvantage: the processing speed. It
will take a certain amount of time for the glue to melt, slowing down both the
production and the application rate.

9.5 Applications of Sew-Free Garments

Fully fashioned or sewn-free garments are generally used for apparel. 3D knitting
techniques are being used to expand areas such as upholstery, fashion, industrial,
medical textiles, and automotive.
• Undergarments
These are the most necessary articles. Undergarments are the tunics of two pieces.
These are typically used for mostly functional purposes.
• Apparel
A sew-free garment does not have any single stitch or seam on the body of the
garment; they are constructed and manufactured without any seam. This sew-free
garment looks like a continuous, flowing, and uninterrupted fabric. For example,
sew-free apparel includes sew-free stockings, hats, gloves for hands, socks, skirts,
sweaters, and sportswear.
• Upholstery
The sew-free technique is also used for upholstery. This technology is generally
used for home and office furnishings. It is also used in the automobile as seat
covers and medical textiles such as bandages, orthopedic supports, and medical
utensils and stockings. There are more possibilities for sew-free products in health-
care applications, such as high-performance fiber incorporation and other additional
sensors.

9.6 Design Possibilities of Sew-Free Garments

There are continuous improvement and innovation criteria in sew-free technologies. It

helps to improve the new styles to fulfill consumer demand. The recent developments
are coming from the producers of fiber and the manufacturers of yarn. The technology
continues to provide advancements from the suppliers. The knitting structure shows
that the construction patterns do not match other non-sew-free garments. There is a
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 203

never-ending design opportunity for colored ways and different stitch varieties for
sew-free clothes. These benefits are achieved in a single garment through ribbing,
jacquards, and detailing. It is not possible for the other processes, like knitting. The
sew-free technology feature has flexible benefits. Therefore, the idea has been used
for underwear, swimsuits, leisure suits, sleepsuits, ready-to-wear, and athletic wear.

10 Advanced Technology in Fusing

Nowadays, apparel manufacturing cannot be done without fusing. Thus, fusing is

expected to have become a mature and advanced technology today. Material changes,
expectations of quality, and methods of apparel care involve more uncomfortable
problems, mostly found after a whole batch of defective pieces have been manufac-
tured. The fusing technology is where the interlining gets bonded with the outer fabric
by a resin of thermoplastic adhesive that can be connected to a different material [17].
The most significant area of garment construction where an alternative process has
gradually taken over from the sewing process is the joining of interlinings. Approx-
imately 80% of all apparel requires interlining to improve stability, strength, and
resistance to creases and shapes. When interlinings are sewn in, it can face difficul-
ties on the parts like collars to avoid wrinkling of the interlining inside the collar
and puckering around the edge. Moreover, on large parts like the fronts of the jacket,
the joining of interlinings by sewing is costly and requires skill if a better standard
is needed. Thus, the alternative process that has been innovated is fusing. Fusible
interlining is used to describe a basic fabric coated on a single side with a resin
of thermoplastic adhesive that can be bonded to different fabrics by the controlled
implementation of pressure and heat. Automation makes it possible for advanced
fusing presses to fuse precisely, improving the quality of the fused composite and
keeping clothing materials from shrinking [17].
The fusing is done by applying pressure from both sides of the fabric while heat
is applied. Depending on their work processes, it is categorized into two types:
discontinuous or flat presses of fusing and continuous presses of fusing. Intermit-
tent fusing presses work progressively and sequentially with other fusing methods.
They are not very productive but convenient for small or medium-scale production.
Continuous fusing presses perform a running operation, bypassing the materials
over a conveyor belt. It facilitates higher levels of productivity. Besides, they show
energy efficiency and ensure continuous fusing without fabric shrinkage and fading.
For these benefits, the presses are constructed for various manufacturing units [60,
61]. Fusing presses are manufactured by several well-known companies, including
German Meyer, German VEIT-Group, Italy, Macpi, Japanese Hashima, Konsan from
the United Kingdom, and Oshima from Taiwan.
In continuous fusing, the pressing operation relies on a conveyor belt that moves
continuously. It helps to carry the base fabric along with its interlining materials
inside and outside the heating chamber. Figure 6 shows the schematic diagram of a
204 J. Sarkar et al.

Fig. 6 A schematic diagram of a continuous press of fusing: (1) loading and feed (lower) conveyer
belt, (2) upper conveyer belt, (3) upper heating zone, (4) lower heating zone, (5, 6) pressure rolls,
and (7) exit conveyer belt. Reprinted with permission from [17]

continuous press fusing machine. The different components of the device are also
shown in the figure [62, 63]. The device has done the following:
• a surface of work for moving the materials,
• a chamber for heating which heats the materials,
• pressure rolls that press the materials, and
• a cooling system that cools down the fused components.

The fusing press device is developed by using various additional equipment, such
as
(a) Feeding conveyors, consisting of several belts for loading, which are placed on
the front side of a press for creating ergonomic places of work and enhancing
productivity;
(b) Collection stackers, which stack fused components and require fewer workers;
(c) The return belts, which return the materials that are fused to the front press side
when only a single worker is available;
(d) Fusing devices for the waistband for fusing narrow and long rolls of the
waistband.

10.1 Advanced Technologies of Fusing for Avoiding

Shrinkage of Fabric

The most critical problem that most often occurs during the process of fusing is the
shrinkage of the material. It complicates the fabric-cutting process, reduces efficiency
in fabric utilization, and leads to fabric loss. The shrinkage occurs because of the
fabric’s thermal shock, which happens as the fabric is exposed to some rapid and
sudden change in temperature. It creates structural and dimensional stress. It also
irreversibly alters the material characteristics. To avoid damage to the fabric, the
temperature needs to be increased gradually by the extension of processing time.
But traditional presses for fusing cannot slowly heat the components. As a result, a
different degree of shrinkage of fabric occurs most often. As a result, the dimensions
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 205

of the fused elements are reduced, and attaching them to varying parts of the garment
may become difficult [17, 64].
To avoid this complexity in the joining of the components, the degree of shrinkage
for every fabric needs to be pre-fixed. It must be considered within the dimensions
of the respective materials in their separate markers. But, due to the wide variations
in apparel components, their testing procedures and corrective actions on the pattern
pieces are rarely performed. The problems are often obstructed by adding safety
buffers over the fusible materials or marker blocks and by two-step cutting. These
fusible materials or their blocks are cut so that they are not considerably more promi-
nent in the first step. After fusing, a fine and accurate cut is made, and the extra piece
is thrown away after the shrinkage of the fabric is taken into account.
Modern technologies of fusing exhibit the latest generation of fusing presses
that can ensure the process of fusing is more qualitative and also negate shrinkage
of the material. The continuous fusing press consists of a long heating chamber
and a susceptible heating system. The section of the heating press has many, up
to 12, separately controlled individual heating zones. Every zone of heating has
a different temperature, which can heat materials gradually over a more extended
period. Temperatures for the upper and lower zones of heating that heat the interlining
and face fabric, respectively, can be adjusted individually considering the material
quality.
The long chamber of heating with several zones for heating increases the time of
heating as well as ensures a gradual rise in temperature for fusing the fabric perfectly,
which can avoid shrinkage of fabric even below the lower temperature compared to
a conventional short-chamber press for heating.
The capacity of heating and the heating chamber geometry of the press choose the
material for fusing. Lightweight fabrics usually need a lower degree of heating, and
presses with a shorter chamber of heating with fewer zones can be helpful enough.
Heat is generated at the center point from the face side of the fabric. After that,
it moves the melting resins to the face side. For heavier fabrics and multilayer or
sandwich fusing, presses with a better heating capacity and a larger chamber for
heating with heating zones are required. Moreover, heating only from the bottom
and topsides, along with individual thermal control, ensures an accurate temperature
balance.
Continuous fusing presses with extended heating chambers and individual heat
control systems have been developed by companies such as Germany’s Meyer,
Reliant Machinery from the United Kingdom, the German VEIT Group, Oshima
from Taiwan, and the Italian Martin Group.
Another example of an advanced fusing system for apparel is the MP 2S Fusing
Machine by MAICA. It has been innovated to satisfy the needs of the most chal-
lenging consumers for collar adhesion, cuff adhesion, and other details. A tracking
system allows pre-fixing the fabric before entering the adhesive phase to avoid the
electrostatic effect that could move them. The temperature is controlled by a touch
screen, which permits easy and quick resistance adjustment. The use of an unloading
device allows methodical stacking of the fabric pieces during the termination of the
operation without the need for many people to be present around the fusing machine.
206 J. Sarkar et al.

The stacker permits the hot, finished fabric piece to be automatically cooled and won’t
be affected by the hands of humans, which may deform its shape. This machine also
has a patented conveyor cleaning system for certain researched materials. Generally,
one person is enough to fuse around 4,000 parts daily. Thus, it minimizes 5/6 oper-
ators for the same output. It also provides consistently better quality and low power
consumption.

11 Advanced Technology in Finishing

11.1 Pressing

Garment pressing or ironing removes unwelcome creases or wrinkles from clothing

while enhancing its smoothness, brightness, and beauty. Calendaring clothing is
another term for pressing. Heat, pressure, and moisture are generally used while
pressing or ironing. This procedure transforms fibers, yarns, and fabrics into the
desired shapes as desired by the designer. The equipment and techniques for pressing
garments determine how heat, pressure, and moisture are applied. In the clothing
industry, steam is mostly used to provide heat and moisture, or mechanical or manual
systems are used to create pressure. The homogeneity of pressure can be maintained
correctly by using a mechanical system, which cannot be kept if pressure is applied
manually. There is a distinct area in a clothing factory for pressing or ironing. To
present the clothing to buyers and consumers beautifully and appealingly, pressing
plays a significant role.
• Purposes of pressing
The significant purposes of pressing can be summarized as follows:
(a) Removal of unwanted creases and wrinkles
(b) To apply creases in the desired locations as needed
(c) Shaping of different or whole parts of a garment
(d) Underpressing
(e) Final pressing
(f) Increase the beautification of garments.

• Pressing without pressure

The principal methods of pressing without pressure are described as follows:

• Steam Tunnel: In this process, pressing is done without applying any pressure
to the garments. The garments are hung on hangers, and the hangers are placed
on the running rail. The running rail carries the hangers with garments through a
tunnel. There are several chambers in the tunnel. In the first chamber, the required
temperature is controlled by steam. The garments hanging in the hangers are
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 207

heated by steam as they pass through the chamber, and any unwanted creases in
the garments are removed due to fabric relaxation caused by heat and gravita-
tional force. Then, during the period of passing through the second chamber, the
garments are dried by the flow of dry, hot air [65].
In this process, if there is any crease in the garments, they can be removed, but
no creases can be created. Generally, the steam tunnel is used for pressing t-shirts or
garments made with knit fabrics.
• Permanent Creasing: Before the invention of the permanent-press, the fabric was
typically treated with a cross-linking chemical or resin followed by curing. This
procedure caused creases to vanish and seams to lose their flat, folded form, and the
finished item had the propensity to return to a smooth, flat state. However, some
puckering also happened due to fabric displacement and yarn tension changes
during fabrication. Post-cure or permanent-press techniques were used in place
of precure techniques to address these issues. The garment may be permanently
molded while sewn and pressed, if creases and wrinkles are trapped in and out.
Wash-wear promises made years ago are now being fulfilled by Permanent-press
[66–69].
There are several processes by which permanent-press or durable press may be
obtained, which are
• Delayed or Deferred Cure: This process is probably the most familiar than the
others. Blends of polyester/cotton, cotton/nylon, polynosic/polyester, and 100%
cotton are used in this process. This post-cure process enables the fabric to be
impregnated with the appropriate reactant, catalyst, and finishing agent. The fabric
is dried at a low temperature to prevent curing. After fabrication, the sensitized
garment is pressed on a hot-head press to set the shape and then oven-cured to
cross-link the chemicals to the fabric and to set creases. The oven-curing time and
temperature combinations vary from finisher to finisher, one of which was found
to be 370 °F, 340 °F, 320 °F, and 300 °F for 2 min, 4 min, 8 min, and 15 min,
respectively. In the case of cellulosic fabric content, a heavy-weight fabric is
usually used to offset around a 35–50% reduction in tensile strength, resulting
from high temperatures and long periods of curing time. Because of shrinkage,
patterns for men’s pants must be one-fourth inch bigger in the waistband and
inseam [70].
• Precure, Double Cure, or Recure: These processes depend on particular garment
pressing conditions. They do not require an oven. In the case of the precure or
double cure process, where garments are made from fully cured or partially cured
fabric, they are pressed on a hot-head press to break and reform the cross-linking
bonds in the creased position. Then the garments may or may not be oven-cured,
depending on the hot-head press’s temperature. Fabrication is carried out by using
fully cured fabric. The garments are lightly pressed for shaping, and then an
additional catalyst solution is sprayed or sponged on the creases, seams, and
pleats, which uncured and recured the fabric.
208 J. Sarkar et al.

In contrast, the garment is held in the desired configuration using a hot-head

press. The cross-links break with the effect of heat and moisture and reform as the
fabric dries during the pressing. It was modified to eliminate the additional catalyst
spraying. One way, the garment is pressed on a hot-head press for three minutes.
In another way, the garment is pressed on presses that generate temperatures above
325 °F and steam gauge pressures ranging from 80 to 120 pounds. Depending on the
fabric and type of press used, the pressing time varied from 225 to 180 s [71].
A few limitations to the precure process prevent its wide acceptance on an indus-
trial scale. One of them is stiffening, which usually occurs in the secured area with
the application of additional catalysts. Besides, the delicate balance between a cross-
linking rupture and a cross-linking formation is difficult to control. Watermarks may
appear on certain fabrics due to this process. Also, scorching is likely to happen
where the resin moves because of the catalyst solution.
• Fiber Modification or Sulfone Process: This procedure is used mainly on
polyester/cotton blended fabrics. The fabric is treated with a symmetrical sulfone
and alkali, which reacts for some time in the wet state before rinsing and drying
the fabric. Then the cloth is treated with NaOH, which reacts for a short time.
After this reaction time, the fabric is neutralized and rinsed, which completes the
“wet cross-linking” step. Then an alkaline catalyst is padded on, and the fabric
is dried. After that, the cellulose fibers have been modified, and all noticeable
changes have taken place, which imparts all desirable characteristics except dry
crease recovery to the fabric. Dry crease recovery is imparted to the fabric only
after an oven-cure or “dry cross-linking” step. One source states that an oven cure
of 320 °F for 4–5 min is believed to be sufficient, while another source states that
these conditions may vary from 10 to 15 min at 260° to 280 °F to 3–6 min at 300°
to 330 °F.
This process requires selecting a suitable chemical system to get uniformity of
the treatment, stability of the treated fabric during storage, elimination of odors, and
an after-wash treatment. The pressing amount needed to set creases is less with this
process than in the delayed cure process because the lower amount of pressing is
sufficient to impart a crease to the dried fabric and the chemical reaction takes place
in the oven after fabrication. This process eliminates chlorine retention, unpleasant
odors, and spontaneous curing.
• High Energy or Pressure Cure: In this process, the garments are cut from
procured or post-cured polyester/cotton, cotton/nylon stretch, or 100% cotton
fabrics. The garments are pressed and cured simultaneously using high tempera-
tures of around 450 °F for 15 s at high pressures. Oven-cure is not necessary with
this time and temperature relationship. Fabrics used in this procedure are always
entirely cured.
• Resin-latex or Garment Treatment Process: The completed garments are
immersed in a conventional resin with a very high concentration of a thermo-
plastic polymer. After the excess liquor has been extracted, the damp garments
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 209

are pressed into shape and cured in an oven. It is important to note that the covering
patent says that the resin and latex add-ons make the clothes about 13% heavier.
One limitation of this procedure is that the treatment of the garments requires
such close control for satisfactory results that industrial acceptance on a wide scale
is unlikely. Besides, this process requires a longer pressing time to set a crease due
to the extraction of excess liquid, followed by a pressing to dry the garment and set
crease lines.
• Resin-Fiber Process, or Fiber Blend: The significant effect of this process is
obtained through fabric construction engineering, although some resins may be
used in small amounts. Generally, the fabric is woven with 100% thermoplastic
fiber in one direction and 100% cellulose or cellulose/synthetic blend in the other
direction. Garments made from this fabric are pressed on a hot-head press using
high temperatures and pressures of around 90 pounds for 5 s, which can impart the
crease or pleat. This process results in about one percent of residual shrinkage.
Another source indicates using 100% polyester yarn in the filling direction to
capitalize on polyester’s ability to accept and hold a crease. They also suggest
using polyester/acrylic blended fabrics where the two thermoplastic fibers need
only a good pressing with pressure to obtain a sharp crease.
• Everprest’s “Sharp/Shape”: This process is effective with stretch fabrics and
was adapted for Expandra stretch denim. A pre-sanforized blend of 75% cotton
and 25% stretch nylon is used. Garments made from this fabric are cured by
pressing with a hot-head press.
• Vapor Process: This process is used on 100% cotton fabric to achieve permanent-
press garments. This process has not yet been developed for commercial use. The
untreated cotton fabrics are placed in a closed oven or vapor reactor chamber to
introduce vapors of cellulose cross-linking agents. The catalysts are drawn into the
chamber by an air or nitrogen stream. Temperatures range from room temperature
to 120 °C, and reaction times range from 15 s to 120 min, depending on the reagents
used. The chemicals on the clothes that haven’t been changed are flushed out of the
chamber. Since the vapor phase cross-linking is carried out under mild conditions,
in the presence of moisture or non-restrictive swelling agents, the permanent-press
cotton garments produced have higher tensile strength, tear strength, and abrasion
resistance than those made in the resin-based high-temperature curing system.
Since the reactions are done on untreated cotton clothes, there is no problem with
the fabric’s ability to stay stable between finishing and making the clothes.
Permanent-press is still relatively new. There are limited studies available that
compare conventional wash-wear fabrics with permanent-press fabrics. Permanent-
press fabrics will be stronger in the future because of new and better curing methods
and a better understanding of how fiber blends work together.
210 J. Sarkar et al.

12 Digital Printing and Embroidery

Textile printing can be traced back to ancient crafts, and, since then, it has followed
a path of continuous development up to recent times. But in the case of industries,
only a few of them could adequately produce printed fabric with rotary screen tech-
nology. The invention of digital printing technology in the last decade of the twentieth
century changed it all. It opened broad opportunities for many manufacturers world-
wide by effectively reducing sampling times and providing the capability to add
customizations on a larger scale [72]. In the case of embroideries, humans used them
to add cultural and aesthetic values to their social lives, and the elite class of society
indulged in them for the past few centuries. Recent technological surges have also
changed the embroidery sector by using digital imaging and sometimes CAD to
add more precision. Using these new technologies increased productivity but, more
importantly, reduced lead time, lowering the overall cost of the garments [73].

12.1 Digital Printing

The popularity of t-shirts among the new generation is very high, and some companies
grasped the opportunity by developing digital printing machines. The machine is
handy for those apparel industries producing goods for the uprising t-shirt market.
The digital printer generates mock intarsia, jacquard patterns, and photographic prints
on knitted garments [74]. The machines are controlled by computer software to make
the system precise and accurate. The software governs the nozzles from which the
inks get dropped onto the design surface. The design is created and manipulated by a
CAD program. Most commercial corporations use six- or eight-color CAD systems
[74]. New technologies are coming to the market with unique designs to develop the
growing textile market.

12.2 Embroidery

Digital embroidery systems are considered a very accurate, time-saving alterna-

tive to conventional embroidery systems. The artwork for the embroidery is first
developed by specialized digital software or CAD programs. It is then transferred
to the embroidery machine in a way that the machine can understand and follow
the artwork perfectly with the precise track. Embroidery threads are loaded into the
machine according to the number of treads per color. Most commercial systems
use either one of six, nine, or eleven, fifteen-colored devices to create the embroi-
dery pattern. Sewing speed and trace function are adjusted before pushing to start
the embroidery process. Generally, trace detail is manipulated, and trace speed is
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 211

changed from fast to slow or opposite at any time during operation based on prefer-
ence. If thread breakage occurs, the machine shows an error message on the monitor.
Once the pattern is complete, the machine returns to the beginning and is ready to
start another new pattern [75].
Deco Studio e3, Brother, Embird, Hatch, Embrilliance, and Tajima Writer Plus
are some of the most popular commercially used digital embroidery software.

13 Advanced Technology in Manikins

The manikins, also known as thermal manikins are being widely used in scien-
tific testing environments without posing a risk to the subject being tested. Among
different thermal manikins, NEWTON, SAM (Sweating Agile Thermal Manikin),
and ADAM (Advanced Automotive Manikin) are the most common. NEWTON has
been developed by the Measurement Technology North West in the United States. The
National Renewable Energy Laboratory in the United States and the Swiss Federal
Laboratories for Material Testing and Research in Switzerland made ADAM and
SAM, respectively [76–79].
All of the manikins are developed using the standard BS EN ISO 15831: 2004
regarding the construction of thermal manikins. Moreover, a lot of options are avail-
able for these manikins. In addition to NEWTON, Measurement Technology North
West also developed the Simon Manikin, Nemo Manikin, “TIMMY” child manikin,
and automotive HVAC manikin systems for different specific purposes [80–82]. In the
more advanced field, manikins are also used in medical training, nursing education,
and healthcare simulation training [83–85].
On the other hand, in traditional apparel manufacturing, mannequins were used
to display products in shops that mimic the appearance of humans. In addition
to displaying products, different advanced mannequins are used to satisfy various
purposes. For example, in 2014, the Q logo mannequin made its debut in the United
States, named after the “invisible” aides on stage during kabuki plays. Q logo can
move its head, arms, and legs thanks to little motors in various sections of its body,
including the neck, shoulders, elbows, and knees. It’s also feasible to create a Q logo
troupe directed remotely to dance and run [86]. In another case, customers can obtain
information about the clothes on display via mobile phones owing to Iconeme’s tech-
nology. Customers who have the app will receive a push message when the beacon is
in range, allowing them to see product information and purchase directly from their
phones. Using QR codes or NFC, very similar applications have been seen before
[87].
212 J. Sarkar et al.

14 Application of Smart and Technical Textiles in Apparel

Smart textiles, also known as Future Textiles, E-Textiles, and other terms, are fabrics
developed. Modern containment technology offers the wearer increased usefulness.
In recent times, intelligent E-textiles have gained a lot of attention around the world.
The futuristic features and the potential for comprehensive application in different
fields make smart textiles popular and desirable. A lot of research is performed
yearly to develop intelligent textiles sustainably, with more user-friendly features
and a more cloth-like feeling. The different elements of intelligent, electronic [88],
and acoustic textile technology [89] are developing daily. The focus is mainly on
micro-encapsulation [90], thermochromic color [91], photochromic dyes [92], and
phosphorescent pigments. Interactive textiles are examples of the most commonly
used forms. In recent days, wearable electronics are gaining a lot of attraction for
their excellent properties [93]. Though it is a subject of extensive research, many
small-scale successful examples of wearable electronic textiles have already been
materialized [94–96]. At the same time, scalable production for wearable intelligent
textiles is being conducted successfully [97–99]. In addition, technical textiles [100]
in various apparel applications are ubiquitous. Their versatile applications and attrac-
tive properties for the specialized field are used in multiple high-performance apparel
to serve specific functions. Several high-performance yarns [101, 102] and fabrics
[103–105] are successfully used and, more importantly, scalable used in apparel,
specifically high-performance specialized apparel [103, 104, 106].

15 Advanced Technology in Apparel Supply Chain

The supply chain is primarily a bridge among suppliers, clients, and producers [107].
Supply chains are highly intricate matrices that can start at one point and end at
another. This connection is possible by using advanced technologies. Some of these
are used to support the idea of the Industry 4.0 revolution. Sustainable management
of operations is obligatory for the betterment of the planet. More emphasis is given to
Industry 4.0 technologies to improve sustainability in supply chains as the products
deliver a sustainable output and reduce man–machine contact [108]. The textile and
apparel industries are a fundamental part of the global economy. Suppliers, buyers,
retailers, merchandisers, contractors, and subcontractors play essential roles in the
supply chain, including everything from fibers to marketing and even the disposal of
old clothes.
Moreover, markets are becoming more dynamic, global, and customer-oriented,
where customers expect more diversity, better quality and service, faster delivery, and
reliability. A set of intelligent systems and information technology (IT) tools are being
used directly or indirectly to handle the complexity of supply chain management
(SCM) in the textile and apparel industries [109]. These systems are used for many
different things, like integrating information, managing inventory, completing orders,
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 213

buying supplies, meeting the challenges of fast fashion, planning deliveries, and
setting up schedules, to name a few.

16 Advance Planning and Scheduling (APS)

Planning and scheduling (APS) are computer-driven planning structures that put
forward numerous supply chain management tasks (SCM), containing production,
procurement, distribution, and sales at the operational planning levels. Since 1970,
APS systems have represented a natural advancement of planning approaches. As
in other industries, in the apparel industry, the APS focuses on facilitating decision-
making by selecting alternatives and identifying the best strategies [110]. The main
characteristics of APS can be summarized as follows:
• Intrinsic Planning
Intrinsic planning is the planning of the whole supply chain. It aims to focus on issues
of the internal supply chain (e.g., a single company having multiple production units).
Theoretically, it counts the entire supply chain (i.e., suppliers to customers) [110].
• True Optimization
Optimizing APS problems seeks solutions where decisions are made based on
limited and constrained resources. Most supply chain problems need to address
supply and match demand when one, the other one, or both are not abundant. The
leading optimization approaches in the textile and apparel industries are mathe-
matical programming, heuristic programming, and constraint programming. Other
quantitative systems are also used for demand forecasting, scenario planning, and
time series analysis [110].

16.1 Advanced Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) System

An Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system, as a software solution, is a cross-

functional system that combines several departments of a company and strives to
reduce lead time, improve productivity, increase responsiveness, and acquire compet-
itive advantage [111]. During the last two decades, the ERP system has drawn the
attention of many companies and has been widely implemented in the textile and
apparel industries. In the apparel industry, ERP allows the organization to put several
systems such as a decision support system (DIS), a management information system
(MIS), data mining, and data management in a particular place and gives critical
alerts when the process diverges from the provided direction [112].
The selection of a proper ERP system is crucial for the apparel industry, as a poor
selection may be risky. The following are the advanced EPR systems used in the
apparel and fashion industry.
214 J. Sarkar et al.

• Sync: It is designed mainly for the apparel industry. It is an integrated ERP soft-
ware that manages the entire task of costing and the project management process.
It has seven inclusive modules: costing, purchasing, stock control software, mobile
sales, task management, financial integration, and reports.
• Ysoft: Apparel Industry Extensions (AIE), an apparel solution, is established
using open-source technologies: customer relationship management (CRM) and
Compiere ERP system software. The apparel industry has modified and upgraded
several times to identify the desired demand of the trading and sourcing process.
The features of Ysoft are

(a) User-specified and varied color and size codes

(b) Data entry of garments in the crisscross window
(c) Assortment number
(d) Reports on assortment details
(e) Instructions for packing
(f) Merge distinct size/color/style garments into a carton box
(g) Printout of packing command
(h) Copy packing instructions from purchase order to sales order
(i) Create apparel products by applying a different size, color, and style combination
(j) Tracking of order status and email notification
(k) Create a product catalog design based on a style image
(l) Product BOM explanation copy and report.

• VisualGEM

While designing VisualGEM, the flexible working conditions of the garment industry
have been considered. Software functions have been broken down and organized
to match the distribution of numerous departments in the garment industry. It is
possible to keep the reference of master data and transaction-related data online,
which precludes the pressure of remembering codes. Though VisualGEM is a stan-
dard software package, it can be modified using a powerful template to meet the
requirements of the apparel industry. The features of VisualGEM are
(a) It provides a multi-company working capability.
(b) It offers substantial control of user entrance permission.
(c) It helps to maintain multicurrency export sales.
(d) Garment pictures and images can be stored and printed.
(e) Stocks are correctly held at different departments: stores, factories, and job
working units.
(f) Reports are converted to MS Excel, MS Word, and text formats.

• E-Smartx

E-smartx is an advanced, futuristic, proven, and cost-efficient solution that meets the
ultimate requirements of the apparel industry. Its workflow system greatly supports
business management by responding more quickly to customer demand. With the
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 215

help of the Internet, real-time MIS provides manufacturers the proficiency to monitor
the entire process from product innovation to export. It connects several depart-
ments of different locations, such as planning, merchandising, purchase, inventory
management, production, exports, finance, and payroll. The advantages of e-Smartx
are
(a) The entire operations of the company are monitored effectively.
(b) Higher efficiency and better performance.
(c) Unique database in the world for a single company.
(d) MIS is highly real-time and robust.
(e) It reduces production costs.

• ATOM

ATOM is a software application constructed for the apparel industry. Manufacturers

of apparel, home furnishings, silk products, and just plain fabric can use it to save
costs and eliminate production errors. The features of ATOM are
(a) It is designed entirely for the apparel industry.
(b) Multi-company and multi-language facilities are available.
(c) It can manage the entire process chain.
(d) Sourcing and production are monitored.
(e) Automatic tracking of raw material availability.
(f) Monitoring of real-time production orders.
(g) Information can be accessed easily using visual dashboards.
Large industries may find it practical to communicate with one another using
the ERP system. It makes business processes run more smoothly and improves the
system for better performance. This system makes it easier to manage inventory and
lowers overall business costs in the clothing industry. It also helps apparel industries
to get information easily and quickly.

17 RFID Technology

Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) is the generic name for technologies in which
radio waves transmit real-time information from one place to another at a consider-
able distance [113]. Though the commercial application of RFID technology dates
back to the 1960s, the use of RFID is a modern technology in SCM. This technology
is now being widely used by many retailers, such as Marks & Spencer, Metro Group,
and Wal-Mart, to track different operations. A basic RFID system has three main
parts: an RFID tag (transponder), a reader (interrogator), and software to process
data. Two terms are widely used: passive (without internal batteries) and active
(with batteries and self-powered). A product with a tiny chip for storing data and an
antenna to collect and respond to radio frequency is embedded in a product [114].
216 J. Sarkar et al.

Four frequency bands are used for RFID. The categories are based on differences
in radio frequency: high-frequency tags (13.56 MHz), low-frequency tags (125 or
134.2 kHz), microwave tags (2.45 or 5.8 GHz), and UHF tags (868–956 MHz) [115].

17.1 Application of RFID Technology in Textile and Apparel

In textiles and apparel, RFID is applied in production control, retail manage-

ment, customer relationship management, inventory control, planning, and decision-
making. For instance, in weaving, fabric lots are tracked effectively. In apparel
processing, pattern pieces, accessories, and production processes can be monitored
easily. In spinning mills, yarn and cotton bales can be traced smartly. RFID is used
in retail stores to make it easier to find things and keep track of stock.

18 Blockchain Technology

A digital ledger, widely known as the core of cryptocurrencies, is a digital ledger

consisting of information blocks. When a defined number of deals are recorded,
these blocks of information are attached to a log, thus creating a chain of blocks
named "blockchain." A blockchain is controlled by a matrix of nodes in which every
node accomplishes and records duplicate transactions. In the blockchain network,
the blockchain is duplicated among the nodes. Transactions can be read by any node
in the network (Fig. 7) [116].

19 Application of AI and Soft Computing in Apparel

Processing and Business

Artificial intelligence (AI), an area of computer science, can imitate the compe-
tence of human intelligence and sensory ability [117]. AI is widely used in physics,
engineering, management, medicine, and so on for its intelligent and heuristic char-
acteristics [118]. In the manufacturing industry, AI can provide outstanding results
by improving quality, reducing production costs, increasing productivity, and best
utilization of raw materials [119][119]. Recently, AI techniques have been imple-
mented in apparel manufacturing and business (e.g., design, pattern making, produc-
tion planning, marker making, sewing, forecasting of sales, supply chain, retailing,
and marketing) [121]. Figure 8 shows the schematic diagram of some textiles’ most
commonly used computing-based systems.
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 217

Fig. 7 Structural parts of a blockchain. Reprinted with permission from [116]

Fig. 8 Basic architecture of a Fuzzy Expert System [122], b Generic Algorithm (GA) [123]. c
Adaptive Neuro-Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS) [124], and d neuron used in Artificial Neural
Network (ANN) [121]. All of the figures are reprinted with permission
218 J. Sarkar et al.

19.1 Types of AI and Soft Computing Approaches

AI and soft computing techniques are diverse disciplines and can be employed
as a single unit or in combination to satisfy task requirements. Some AI and soft
computing systems that are commonly used in the garment industry are Artificial
Neural Networks (ANNs), Fuzzy Logic (FZ), Evolution Strategy (ES), Genetic Algo-
rithm (GA), Adaptive Neuro-Fuzzy Interface System (ANFIS), Generalized Regres-
sion Neural Network (GRN), and Artificial Immune System (AIS), as shown in
Fig. 8.

19.2 Application of Computing-Based Systems in Estimation

of Fiber and Yarn Properties

Clothing production began with the use of textile fiber as raw materials. The prop-
erties of some textile fibers (Merino, cashmere, and Mohair) are so intricate that
chemical and physical approaches, which are time-consuming and costly, are needed
to identify these fibers. An Artificial Neural Network (ANN) with image processing
techniques is applied to identify the fibers [125]. Fuzzy logic and an adaptive neuro-
fuzzy interface system are also used to determine fiber length, uniformity ratio, spin-
ning index, fineness, and yarn properties. A feedforward artificial neural network
can be established to show the relationship between yarn tenacity, fiber properties,
and yarn parameters.

19.3 Application of Computing-Based Systems

in the Prediction of Fabric Properties

Due to fast fashion, clothing manufacturers are bound to shorten the lead time,
which puts more pressure on fabric manufacturers to meet the quality requirements
and deliver the fabrics on time. Though expensive and able to increase production
costs, AI and soft computing approaches are applied to predict fabric properties (e.g.,
handle, air permeability, comfortability, evaporative resistance, and durability). For
instance, the ANN model can predict the handle properties of fabric depending on
the mechanical properties of spun yarn manufactured using the air jet yarn spinning
technique [126]. Load extension behavior, comfort properties, and bending rigidity
of plain weaving fabrics can be identified using ANN, Neuro-Genetic, and ANFIS
models [127, 128].
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 219

Fig. 9 Different fabric defects inspected (arrow indicates defects) by artificial intelligence: a gout,
b warp float, c drawback, d hole, e dropped stitches, and f press-off. Reprinted with permission
from [41]

19.4 Application of Computing-Based Systems

in the Detection of Fabric Fault

Fabric inspection usually requires skilled personnel, and, at the same time, it is time-
consuming and less efficient. On the other hand, AI and soft computing can perform
such tasks with greater accuracy and at a faster rate [37]. In the garment industry,
grading and fault inspection of fabrics can be performed using AI [129]. Captured
images are compared with stored images (Fig. 9) [130]. Furthermore, the ANN model
can be developed to predict fabric flaws such as missing picks, oily fabric, broken
fabric, and missing ends [131], and the ANN model can classify woven and knit
fabric [132].

19.5 Application of Computing-Based Systems in Garment

Manufacturing and Business

Nowadays, garment manufacturing is shifting from a manual process to automation,

intending to keep the production cost as low as possible, reduce production errors,
220 J. Sarkar et al.

and fulfill customer demand. To meet global demand, the application of artificial
intelligence and soft computing is increasing in production planning, quality control,
supply chain management, and retailing.

19.6 Application of Computing-Based Systems in Production

Planning and Control

Production planning and control (PPC) coordinates with several departments of the
production unit to meet the delivery date. Numerous studies were conducted to avoid
bottleneck problems related to PPC [133]. Most PPC studies focused on sewing
floor issues such as line balancing, machine layout setting, and operator management
on the sewing floor. AI solves such problems, which may help accomplish PPC’s
objectives. The ANN model with the analytic hierarchy process (AHP) decision-
making systems can be used to select the best suitable manufacturing plant [134].
As GA is powerful and effective in obtaining heuristic solutions, it can be applied
to solve order scheduling problems in a production unit [135]. Reduction of idle
time and proper line balancing can be achieved using a GA-based optimization
methodology [136]. Optimization in marker planning [137] and cost minimization
in a cut order plan can be attained using an adaptive Evaluation Systems (ESs)-based
genetic optimization approach [138]. The block diagram of ES is shown in Fig. 10.

19.7 Application of Computing-Based Systems in Supply

Chain Management (SCM)

The flow of materials (fiber, yarn, fabric, trim, and accessories) between various
production points or retail is part of SCM. Numerous business processes, informa-
tion, activities, and resources for creating consumer value are integrated into SCM.
Although AI is widely applied in the SCM of other goods, it has limited application
in several areas of the fashion supply chain.
Supply chain planning [139], procurement process [140], vendor management
[141], and intelligent sales forecasting [142] can all benefit from AI approaches.
Fuzzy-based software for making decisions can help fashion marketers pick the best
design scheme and develop a new product [143].

19.8 Application of Computing-Based Systems in Retailing

Fashion retailing is a connecting bridge between consumers and the manufacturers

of fashion goods. Technological advancements and fast fashion trends have made
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 221

Fig. 10 Block diagram of the ES. Reprinted with permission from [137]

fashion retail more challenging during the last two decades. The application of AI is
rising in several areas of fashion retail, such as retail forecasting [144], management
of customer relationships [145]; determination of customer satisfaction [146]; and
customer choice in fashion retailing outlets [147].
222 J. Sarkar et al.

20 Challenges of Using Advanced Technologies in Apparel

Production and Processing and Probable Ways
to Overcome the Challenges

Though advanced technology is excellent in every aspect of apparel manufac-

turing, processing, and supply chain, some challenges hinder the proper utilization
of advanced technologies. The challenges and possible ways to overcome those
challenges are discussed as follows.

20.1 High Initial Cost of Installment and Maintenance Cost

There is no doubt that advanced technologies will cost more than conventional tech-
nologies. It is even more difficult for developing countries to purchase traditional
machinery because industrial textile equipment, whether conventional or advanced,
is always more expensive. In that case, the only solution is for the more affluent,
developed countries to provide those advanced technologies to the poorer countries
at a cheaper rate or on a yearly installment basis with zero or very little interest.
Advanced technologies will bring a higher rate of productivity. For the maintenance
cost, manufacturers should provide free maintenance service for at least a few years.
Current garment manufacturing trends rely heavily on underdeveloped and devel-
oping countries. Developed countries must assist them in their efforts for their own
sake.

20.2 Unexpected Production Delays

Unexpected production delays can occur if any machine malfunctions. As those

machines are not conventional, they will also take longer to fix. Sometimes, it is
even possible that there won’t be any suitable mechanics available to resolve the
issue in an underdeveloped country, as the technology is complex and advanced. The
machines should be looked at regularly to ensure they are in good shape and fixed if
there is any sign of a problem.

20.3 Security Threats

As advanced technology uses cloud and Internet-based systems, security threats will
always exist. For instance, confidential documents can be hacked or lost because of
Internet-based theft. Many software are indeed available to provide cybersecurity to
a system, but none of them is without loopholes. Cybersecurity ensures that, under
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 223

those circumstances, an advanced technique is developed to overcome the limitations

of the older ones. Until then, conventional cybersecurity systems are used cautiously
to evade such casualties.

20.4 Unemployment

With systems getting digitalized, it is evident that they will tend to become more auto-
mated than before. It means computerized systems will do better work than conven-
tional systems. That can lead to the unemployment of a lot of senior employment
positions. Some of the staff need the training to fit them with advanced technology.
Rest staff should hold the positions where human operators are mandatory to raise
productivity further and cut the production time for those positions, which will be
needed as advanced technology’s input and output will be higher than conventional
ones.

21 Summary

The growing necessity of automation and technological advancement in apparel

manufacturing and processing has been inevitable. The Fourth Industrial Revolution
demands the best out of the industries. As a result, apparel manufacturers around
the globe have been adopting advanced methods in the apparel manufacturing field.
Nevertheless, not only in the field of manufacturing, advanced technologies are being
used in the supply chain, material management, property prediction, data anticipation,
etc. All of the significant technological advances have been addressed concisely in
this chapter. Though the apparel sector has experienced a boost in technology, the
industry also faces difficulties and challenges in implementing advanced methods.
It has been found that in the field of anthropometry, 3D body scanning technology
has been revolutionary. It is an essential tool in the study of standard-size settings
for apparel.
Similarly, the virtual fitting room and sampling is an advanced technology,
resulting in the easy sample approval and checking process of apparel, which benefits
both the manufacturers and buyers. Moreover, an intelligent CAD system is a further
addition to this advancement. Automatic spreading and computerized cutting are very
useful in making clothes in terms of speed and accuracy. On the other hand, sew-free
technologies are an advancement in assembling those aids in effectively producing
seamless apparel for multiple applications. In finishing, besides traditional finishing
processes, pressing without pressure, permanent creasing, etc. are being used for
more accuracy and to impart an aesthetic touch to the final product. In manufac-
turing and the supply chain of apparel, Advanced Planning and Scheduling (APS),
Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP), RFID technology, blockchain technology, etc.
224 J. Sarkar et al.

have made the processes easier for all of the parties concerned with apparel manufac-
turing and business. In the case of advanced research, different manikins are being
used to mimic the human body in hostile conditions where using actual subjects
may be life-threatening. Furthermore, the introduction of other soft computing-based
methods like fuzzy expert systems, artificial neural networks (ANN), adaptive neuro-
fuzzy inference systems (ANFIS), genetic algorithms (GA), etc., and artificial intel-
ligence (AI) has benefited both researchers and textile professionals. These methods
have been proven effective in data prediction and decision-making with significant
accuracy.
Advanced technologies have caused plenty of advancements and benefits in
the apparel sector. On the contrary, implementing these cutting-edge technologies
requires a lot of attention from every employee. Moreover, challenges also exist to
these methods’ successful integration and functioning. High initial investment and
a massive cost of maintenance of these unconventional systems are some of those.
Difficulty in adequately caring for these technological tools and the availability of
skilled maintenance and service personnel can result in unplanned machine down-
time, hence loss of production and productivity. Additionally, as these advanced
technologies require a lot of cloud-based and Internet-based technology, the poten-
tial security threats are enormous. They often need a sound security system, which
could be a burden in terms of cost and the skills of their workers for companies that
make or process clothes.
Most importantly, these advanced technologies are one of the major causes of
creating unemployment. It has been a great concern for the apparel sector’s employees
as advanced technologies require less manpower. On the other hand, the workforce
needed for these methods must also be skilled and technologically sound, which is
a problem in many situations.
Despite all the challenges and difficulties, it can be summarized that every sector
must be compatible by adopting new and advanced technologies in the present era of
artificial intelligence, augmented reality, and supertechnological advancement. The
same applies to the apparel sector also. It is a pleasure to notice that the apparel sector
has already started its journey with advanced technologies. Technology is gradually
becoming part and parcel of apparel manufacturing, research, and business.

References

1. Niwa M (2002) The importance of clothing science and prospects for the future. Int J Cloth
Sci Technol 14:238–246. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556220210437202
2. Godley A (1997) The development of the clothing industry: technology and fashion. Text Hist
28:3–10. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049697793711067
3. Fukunishi T, Yamagata T (2013) Slow and steady wins the race: how the garment industry
leads industrialization in low-income countries. IDE Discuss Pap 412:1–34
4. Vaidya S, Ambad P, Bhosle S (2018) Industry 4.0: a glimpse. In: Procedia manufacturing.
Elsevier B.V., pp 233–238
5. Erboz G (2017) How to define Industry 40: the main pillars of Industry 4.0. Manag Trends
Dev Enterp Glob Era 761–767
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 225

6. Lee J, Kao HA, Yang S (2014) Service innovation and smart analytics for Industry 4.0 and
big data environment. In: Procedia CIRP. Elsevier B.V., pp 3–8
7. Nayak R, Padhye R (2018) Introduction to automation in garment manufacturing. In:
Automation in garment manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 1–27
8. Vilumsone-Nemes I (2015) Fabric spreading and cutting. In: Garment manufacturing
technology. Elsevier, pp 221–246
9. Istook CL, Hwang SJ (2001) 3D body scanning systems with application to the apparel
industry. J Fash Mark Manag 5:120–132. https://doi.org/10.1108/EUM0000000007283
10. Daanen HAM, Psikuta A (2018) 3D body scanning. In: Automation in garment manufacturing.
Elsevier Ltd, pp 237–252
11. D’Apuzzo N (2007) 3D body scanning technology for fashion and apparel industry. In:
Beraldin J-A, Remondino F, Shortis MR (eds) Videometrics IX. p 649100
12. Faust M-E, Carrier S (2010) Three dimensional (3D) body scanner for apparel shoppers
would make commerce easier. In: International conference on 3D body scanning technologies.
Lugano, Switzerland, pp 068–076
13. E-sampling TO (2013) Web based 3D garment simulation: a futuristic approach to e-sampling.
Futuristic and emerging areas in technology : issues and challenges. Bathinda, India, pp 1–6
14. Pachoulakis I (2012) Augmented reality platforms for virtual fitting rooms. Int J Multimed
Its Appl 4:35–46. https://doi.org/10.5121/ijma.2012.4404
15. Kamal DM (2015) Developing a conceptual model for restructuring apparel sampling develop-
ment process using virtual reality technology. Int Des J 5:415–423. https://doi.org/10.21608/
idj.2015.101452
16. Cheng W, Cheng Z (2012) Applications of CAD in the modern fashion industry. In: Applied
mechanics and materials, pp 1505–1508
17. Vilumsone-Nemes I (2018) Automation in spreading and cutting. In: Automation in garment
manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 139–164
18. Vilumsone-Nemes I (2018) Automated spreading of textile materials. In: Industrial cutting
of textile materials. Elsevier, pp 61–85
19. Vilumsone-Nemes I (2018) Automated cutting of textile materials. In: Industrial cutting of
textile materials. Elsevier, pp 115–150
20. Lottie MLC (2016) Modeling of apparel production system and optimization of lot size
scheduling in apparel industry
21. Das S, Patnaik A (2015) Production planning in the apparel industry. In: Garment manufac-
turing technology. Elsevier, pp 81–108
22. Solinger J (1988) Apparel manufacturing handbook: analysis, principles, and practice. Bobbin
Media Corp, Columbia, SC
23. Oliver BA, Kincade DH, Albrecht D (1994) Comparison of apparel production systems: a
simulation. Cloth Text Res J 12:45–50. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9401200407
24. Tang ZB, Hammond JH, Abernathy FH (1994) Design and scheduling of apparel manu-
facturing systems with both slow and quick production lines. In: Proceedings of the IEEE
conference on decision and control. IEEE, pp 1603–1608
25. Bailey T (1993) Organizational innovation in the apparel industry. Ind Relations A J Econ
Soc 32:30–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-232X.1993.tb01017.x
26. Hill JE (1994) Of the cost and benefits unit production system versus the progressive bundle.
Clemson apparel research facility pendleton SC, Alexandria
27. Nahmias S, Olsen TL (2015) Production and operations analysis, 7th edn. Waveland Press
28. Kincade D, Kim J, Kanakadurga K (2013) An empirical investigation of apparel production
systems and product line groups through the use of collar designs. J Text Apparel, Technol
Manag 8
29. Senanayake MM (2004) Mixed mass production and mass customization: Best practices for
apparel. North Carolina State University
30. Lutz V, Früh HC, Gries T, Klingele J (2018) Automation in material handling. In: Automation
in garment manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 165–177
226 J. Sarkar et al.

31. Jana P (2018) Automation in sewing technology. In: Automation in garment manufacturing.
Elsevier, pp 199–236
32. Suh M (2019) Automated cutting and sewing for industry 4.0 at ITMA 2019. J Text Apparel,
Technol Manag 1–13
33. Gries T, Lutz V (2018) Application of robotics in garment manufacturing. In: Automation in
garment manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 179–197
34. Aminpour RS (2019) Automated fabric picking. US Pat. 10307926B2
35. Kondratas A (2005) Robotic gripping device for garment handling operations and its adaptive
control. Fibres Text East Eur 13:84–89
36. Schrimpf J, Lind M, Mathisen G (2013) Real-time analysis of a multi-robot sewing cell. In:
Proceedings of the IEEE international conference on industrial technology. IEEE, pp 163–168
37. Vijayan A, Jadhav A (2015) Fabric sourcing and selection. In: Garment manufacturing
technology. Elsevier, pp 109–128
38. Nayak R, Padhye R (2015) Garment manufacturing technology, 1st edn. Woodhead Publishing
39. Kumar A (2008) Computer-vision-based fabric defect detection: a survey. IEEE Trans Ind
Electron 55:348–363. https://doi.org/10.1109/TIE.1930.896476
40. Xie X (2008) A review of recent advances in surface defect detection using texture analysis
techniques. ELCVIA Electron Lett Comput Vis Image Anal 7:1–22
41. Ngan HYT, Pang GKH, Yung NHC (2011) Automated fabric defect detection—a review.
Image Vis Comput 29:442–458. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.imavis.2011.02.002
42. Zhou J, Bu HG, Wang J (2011) Feature extraction using auto-regression spectral analysis for
fabric defect detection. Adv Mater Res 175–176:366–370. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.sci
entific.net/AMR.175-176.366
43. Sun Y, Long H (2011) Adaptive detection of weft-knitted fabric defects based on machine
vision system. J Text Inst 102:823–836. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2010.523192
44. Shi M, Fu R, Guo Y, Bai S, Xu B (2011) Fabric defect detection using local contrast deviations.
Multimed Tools Appl 52:147–157. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11042-010-0472-8
45. Li Y, Luo H, Yu M, Jiang G, Cong H (2019) Fabric defect detection algorithm using RDPSO-
based optimal Gabor filter. J Text Inst 110:487–495. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2018.
1489951
46. Chandra JK, Datta AK (2013) Detection of defects in fabrics using subimage-based
singular value decomposition. J Text Inst 104:295–304. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.
2012.721206
47. Gries T, Lutz V, Niebel V, Saggiomo M, Simonis K (2018) Automation in quality monitoring
of fabrics and garment seams. In: Automation in garment manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 353–376
48. Nayak R, Padhye R, Dhamija S, Kumar V (2013) Sewability of air-jet textured sewing threads
in denim. J Text Apparel, Technol Manag 8
49. Hati S, Das BR (2011) Seam pucker in apparels: a critical review of evaluation methods.
Asian J Text 1:60–73
50. Yick KL, Hui CY (2016) Sew-free technologies for intimate apparel. In: Advances in women’s
intimate apparel technology. Elsevier, pp 89–106
51. Tyler D, Mitchell A, Gill S (2012) Recent advances in garment manufacturing technology:
joining techniques, 3D body scanning and garment design. In: The global textile and clothing
industry: technological advances and future challenges. Elsevier, pp 131–170
52. Mikalauskaitė G, Daukantienė V (2019) Investigation of the influence of bonding and thermal
ageing duration on the peeling strength of knitted materials’ bonds. Mater Sci 26:225–232.
https://doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.26.2.21666
53. Fergusson SM (2015) Garment-finishing techniques. In: Garment manufacturing technology.
Elsevier, pp 387–403
54. Gourd LM (1995) Fundamentals of welding—principles of welding technology, 3rd ed.
Arnold
55. Bahadir SK, Kalaoğlu F, Jevšnik S (2015) The use of hot air welding technologies for manu-
facturing e-textile trasmission lines. Fibers Polym 16:1384–1394. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12
221-015-1384-z
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 227

56. Daniels HPC (1965) Ultrasonic welding. Ultrasonics 3:190–196. https://doi.org/10.1016/

0041-624X(65)90169-1
57. Seram N, Nandasiri T (2015) A comparison between bonding and sewing: application in
sports performance wear. J Acad Ind Res 3:343
58. Petrie EM (2015) Alternative fabric-joining technologies. In: Garment manufacturing
technology. Elsevier, pp 337–371
59. Janaa P (2011) Assembling technologies for functional garments-an overview. Indian J Fibre
Text Res 36:380–387
60. Gutauskas M, Masteikaite V (1997) Mechanical stability of fused textile systems. Int J Cloth
Sci Technol 9:360–366. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556229710185523
61. Jevšnik S, Geršak J (1998) Objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel.
Int J Cloth Sci Technol 10:252–262. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556229810693645
62. Fan J, Lau L, Hunter L (2009) Appearance issues in garment processing. In: Engineering
apparel fabrics and garments. Elsevier Ltd., pp 131–160
63. Jones I (2013) The use of heat sealing, hot air and hot wedge to join textile materials. In:
Joining textiles: principles and applications. Elsevier, pp 355–373
64. Gutauskas M, Masteikaite V, Kolomejec L (2000) Estimation of fused textile systems
shrinkage. Int J Cloth Sci Technol 12:63–72. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556220010313823
65. Carnes RB (1978) Laundry and cleaning services pressed to post productivity gains. Mon
Labor Rev 101:38–42
66. Ager KE (2010) The effects of permanent creasing on two types of 65/35 polyester-cotton
blends as measured by appearance, abrasion resistance, and breaking strength. Virginia
Polytechnic Institute
67. Reid JD, Mazzeno LW, Reinhardt RM, Markezich AR (1957) Studies on permanent creasing
of cotton garments. Text Res J 27:252–259. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051755702700311
68. Tesoro GC, Pensa I (1964) Permanent creasing of cotton and cotton blend fabrics. Text Res
J 34:960–966. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051756403401108
69. Bostwick C, Behre B, Kärrholm M (1962) Some fundamental theoretical and experimental
aspects of fabric creasing. J Text Inst Proc 53:P116–P134. https://doi.org/10.1080/194470162
08688649
70. Rowland SP, Brannan MAF (1969) A delayed-curing cotton fabric based on an internally
catalyzed cotton cellulose and divinyl sulfone. Text Res J 39:173–180. https://doi.org/10.
1177/004051756903900207
71. Williamson J (1966). Permanent Press
72. Weiser J, Raulfs FW, Siemensmeyer K (2000) Digital textile printing. In: International
conference on digital printing technologies, pp 529–532
73. Gaidau C, Niculescu M, Surdu L, Barbu I, Vladkova T, Dineff P (2017) Research on cold
plasma treatment of leather and fur based materials as ecological alternative. Ind Textila
68:350–356. https://doi.org/10.35530/it.068.05.1365
74. Tyler DJ (2005) Textile digital printing technologies. Text Prog 37:37–41
75. Jangir S (2016) Digital embroidery designing: a new opportunity for textile designer. Int J
Home Sci 2:358–360
76. Holmér I (2004) Thermal manikin history and applications. Eur J Appl Physiol 92:614–618.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-004-1135-0
77. Bjørn E (2000) Simulation of human respiration with breathing thermal manikin. Aalborg
Univ Indoor Environ Eng 9944:12
78. Rugh JP, Bharathan D (2005) Predicting human thermal comfort in automobiles. In: SAE
technical papers. JSTOR, pp 2508–2516
79. Richards M, Mattle N (2001) A sweating agile thermal manikin (SAM) developed to test
complete clothing systems under normal and extreme conditions. In: Human factors and
medicine panel symposium—blowing hot and cold: protecting against climatic extremes, pp
1–7
80. Mohamad GA (2015) The role of tests and manikin in defining fabrics thermal characteristics.
Int Des J 5:995–1001
228 J. Sarkar et al.

81. Lu Y, Kuklane K, Gao C (2017) Types of thermal manikin. In: Manikins for textile evaluation.
Elsevier, pp 25–54
82. Mishra R (2017) Automotive applications of manikins. In: Manikins for textile evaluation.
Elsevier, pp 301–329
83. Andersen P, Cox K (2020) SimMan 3GTM : manikin-led simulation orientation. Clin Simul
Nurs 40:1–6. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecns.2019.11.003
84. Hananel D, Silverglate D, Burke D, Riggs B, Norfleet J, Sweet RM (2021) The advanced
modular manikin open source platform for healthcare simulation. Mil Med 186:49–57. https://
doi.org/10.1093/milmed/usaa420
85. Dante A, Marcotullio A, Masotta V, Caponnetto V, La Cerra C, Bertocchi L, Petrucci C,
Alfes CM (2021) From high-fidelity patient simulators to robotics and artificial intelligence:
a discussion paper on new challenges to enhance learning in nursing education. In: Advances
in intelligent systems and computing. Springer, pp 111–118
86. Smith R (2001) Squaring the circle: the invocations of Rafael Sánchez. Rev Lit Arts Am
34:84–86. https://doi.org/10.1080/08905760108594659
87. Inman JJ, Nikolova H (2017) Shopper-facing retail technology: a retailer adoption decision
framework incorporating shopper attitudes and privacy concerns. J Retail 93:7–28. https://
doi.org/10.1016/j.jretai.2016.12.006
88. Zhao J, Fu Y, Xiao Y, Dong Y, Wang X, Lin L (2020) A naturally integrated smart textile for
wearable electronics applications. Adv Mater Technol 5:1900781. https://doi.org/10.1002/
admt.201900781
89. Padhye R, Nayak R (2016) Acoustic textiles. Springer Singapore, Singapore
90. Willaert RG, Baron GV (1996) Gel entrapment and micro-encapsulation: methods, applica-
tions and engineering principles. Rev Chem Eng 12:160–205. https://doi.org/10.1515/revce.
1996.12.1-2.1
91. Yu C, Zhang Y, Cheng D, Li X, Huang Y, Rogers JA (2014) All-elastomeric, strain-
responsive thermochromic color indicators. Small 10:1266–1271. https://doi.org/10.1002/
smll.201302646
92. Nigel Corns S, Partington SM, Towns AD (2009) Industrial organic photochromic dyes. Color
Technol 125:249–261
93. Rani S, Kumar N, Sharma YK (2021) Recent progress and future perspective for the develop-
ment of micro-supercapacitors for portable/wearable electronics applications. J Phys Energy.
https://doi.org/10.1088/2515-7655/ac01c0
94. Du D, Li P, Ouyang J (2016) Graphene coated nonwoven fabrics as wearable sensors. J Mater
Chem C 4:3224–3230. https://doi.org/10.1039/C6TC00350H
95. Gonçalves C, Ferreira da Silva A, Gomes J, Simoes R (2018) Wearable E-textile technologies:
a review on sensors, actuators and control elements. Inventions 3:14. https://doi.org/10.3390/
inventions3010014
96. Le Floch P, Yao X, Liu Q, Wang Z, Nian G, Sun Y, Jia L, Suo Z (2017) Wearable and washable
conductors for active textiles. ACS Appl Mater Interfaces 9:25542–25552. https://doi.org/10.
1021/acsami.7b07361
97. Karim N, Afroj S, Tan S, He P, Fernando A, Carr C, Novoselov KS (2017) Scalable production
of graphene-based wearable E-textiles. ACS Nano 11:12266–12275. https://doi.org/10.1021/
acsnano.7b05921
98. Afroj S, Tan S, Abdelkader AM, Novoselov KS, Karim N (2020) Highly conductive, scal-
able, and machine washable graphene-based E-textiles for multifunctional wearable electronic
applications. Adv Funct Mater 30:2000293. https://doi.org/10.1002/adfm.202000293
99. Cai G, Yang M, Pan J, Cheng D, Xia Z, Wang X, Tang B (2018) Large-scale production of
highly stretchable CNT/cotton/spandex composite yarn for wearable applications. ACS Appl
Mater Interfaces 10:32726–32735. https://doi.org/10.1021/acsami.8b11885
100. Matsuo T (2008) Advanced technical textile products. Text Prog 40:123–181. https://doi.org/
10.1080/00405160802386063
101. Liu L, Yu Y, Yan C, Li K, Zheng Z (2015) Wearable energy-dense and power-dense super-
capacitor yarns enabled by scalable graphene–metallic textile composite electrodes. Nat
Commun 6:7260. https://doi.org/10.1038/ncomms8260
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 229

102. Zhang M, Wang C, Wang H, Jian M, Hao X, Zhang Y (2017) Carbonized cotton fabric for
high-performance wearable strain sensors. Adv Funct Mater 27:1604795. https://doi.org/10.
1002/adfm.201604795
103. Uzun S, Han M, Strobel CJ, Hantanasirisakul K, Goad A, Dion G, Gogotsi Y (2021) Highly
conductive and scalable Ti3 C2T-coated fabrics for efficient electromagnetic interference
shielding. Carbon N Y 174:382–389. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carbon.2020.12.021
104. Cheng B, Wu P (2021) Scalable fabrication of Kevlar/Ti 3 C 2 T x MXene intelligent wearable
fabrics with multiple sensory capabilities. ACS Nano 15:8676–8685. https://doi.org/10.1021/
acsnano.1c00749
105. Shin S, Kumar R, Roh JW, Ko D-S, Kim H-S, Il KS, Yin L, Schlossberg SM, Cui S, You J-M,
Kwon S, Zheng J, Wang J, Chen R (2017) High-performance screen-printed thermoelectric
films on fabrics. Sci Rep 7:7317. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-017-07654-2
106. Yu M, Feng X (2020) Scalable manufacturing of MXene films: moving toward industrializa-
tion. Matter 3:335–336. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.matt.2020.07.011
107. Büyüközkan G, Göçer F (2018) Digital supply chain: literature review and a proposed frame-
work for future research. Comput Ind 97:157–177. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compind.2018.
02.010
108. Ahmad S, Miskon S, Alabdan R, Tlili I (2020) Towards sustainable textile and apparel
industry: exploring the role of business intelligence systems in the era of industry 4.0. Sustain
12. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12072632
109. Azevedo SG, Pimentel CMO, Alves AC, Matias JCO (2021) Support of advanced technologies
in supply chain processes and sustainability impact. Appl Sci. https://doi.org/10.3390/app110
73026
110. de Santa-Eulalia LA, DAmours S, Frayret J-M, Cesar C, Cambiaghi R (2011) Advanced supply
chain planning systems (APS) today and tomorrow. In: Supply chain management—pathways
for research and practice. InTech
111. Brahmadeep, Thomassey S (2016) Enterprise resource planning systems for use in apparel
supply chains. In: Information systems for the fashion and apparel industry. Elsevier, pp
235–261
112. Agrawal P, Narain R (2018) Digital supply chain management: an overview. In: IOP
conference series: materials science and engineering
113. Maticevic G, Cicak M, Lovri T (2011) RFID and supply chain management for manufacturing
digital enterprise. In: Supply chain management—new perspectives. InTech
114. Nayak R, Singh A, Padhye R, Wang L (2015) RFID in textile and clothing manufacturing:
technology and challenges. Fash Text 2
115. Konecka S, Maryniak A (2020) RFID as an element of economy 4.0 used to create sustainable
supply chains. J Phys Conf Ser, pp 0–6
116. Pal K, Yasar AUH (2020) Internet of things and blockchain technology in apparel manu-
facturing supply chain data management. In: Procedia computer science. Elsevier B.V., pp
450–457
117. Moon KL, Ngai EWT (2008) The adoption of RFID in fashion retailing: a business value-
added framework. Ind Manag Data Syst 108:596–612. https://doi.org/10.1108/026355708108
76732
118. Vas P (1999) Artificial-intelligence-based electrical machines and drives: application of fuzzy,
neural, fuzzy-neural, and genetic-algorithm-based techniques. Oxford University Press, New
York
119. Shamey R, Hussain T (2008) Artificial intelligence in the colour and textile industry. Rev
Prog Color Relat Top 33:33–45. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2003.tb00142.x
120. Wong ASW, Li Y, Yeung PKW, Lee PWH (2003) Neural network predictions of human
psychological perceptions of clothing sensory comfort. Text Res J 73:31–37. https://doi.org/
10.1177/004051750307300106
121. Nayak R, Padhye R (2018) Artificial intelligence and its application in the apparel industry.
In: Automation in garment manufacturing. Elsevier, pp 109–138
230 J. Sarkar et al.

122. Sarkar J, Mondal MS, Khalil E (2020) Predicting fabric GSM and crease recovery angle of
laser engraved denim by fuzzy logic analysis. J Eng Appl Sci 4:52–64
123. Kim H-S, Cho S-B (2000) Application of interactive genetic algorithm to fashion design. Eng
Appl Artif Intell 13:635–644. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0952-1976(00)00045-2
124. Walia N, Singh H, Sharma A (2015) ANFIS: adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system-a survey.
Int J Comput Appl 123
125. Kong L, She FH, Nahavandi S, Kouzani AZ (2002) Feature extraction for animal fiber
identification. In: Second international conference on image and graphics, p 699
126. Basu A, Chellamani KP, Kumar PR (2002) Fabric engineering by means of an artificial neural
network. J Text Inst 93:283–296. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000208630570
127. Hadizadeh M, Amani Tehran M, Jeddi AAA (2010) Application of an adaptive neuro-fuzzy
system for prediction of initial load—extension behavior of plain-woven fabrics. Text Res J
80:981–990. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517509346451
128. Guruprasad R, Behera BK (2015) Comparative analysis of soft computing models in predic-
tion of bending rigidity of cotton woven fabrics. J Inst Eng Ser E 96:167–174. https://doi.org/
10.1007/s40034-014-0047-8
129. Tsai I-S, Hu M-C (1996) Automatic inspection of fabric defects using an artificial neural
network technique. Text Res J 66:474–482. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759606600710
130. Shady E, Gowayed Y, Abouiiana M, Youssef S, Pastore C (2006) Detection and classification
of defects in knitted fabric structures. Text Res J 76:295–300. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051
7506053906
131. Tilocca A, Borzone P, Carosio S, Durante A (2002) Detecting fabric defects with a neural
network using two kinds of optical patterns. Text Res J 72:545–550. https://doi.org/10.1177/
004051750207200614
132. Huang CC, Chen IC (2001) Neural-fuzzy classification for fabric defects. Text Res J 71:220–
224. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750107100306
133. Wong ASW, Li Y, Yeung PKW (2004) Predicting clothing sensory comfort with artifi-
cial intelligence hybrid models. Text Res J 74:13–19. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750407
400103
134. Wong WK, Zeng XH, Au KF (2013) Selecting the location of apparel manufacturing plants
using neural networks. In: Optimizing decision making in the apparel supply chain using
artificial intelligence (AI): from production to retail. Elsevier, pp 41–54
135. Guo ZX, Wong WK, Leung SYS, Fan JT, Chan SF (2013) Optimizing apparel production
order planning scheduling using genetic algorithms. In: Optimizing decision making in the
apparel supply chain using artificial intelligence (AI). Elsevier, pp 55–80
136. Wong WK, Mok PY, Leung SYS (2013) Optimizing apparel production systems using genetic
algorithms. In: Optimizing decision making in the apparel supply chain using artificial
intelligence (AI). Elsevier, pp 153–169
137. Wong WK, Wang XX, Guo ZX (2013) Optimizing marker planning in apparel production
using evolutionary strategies and neural networks. In: Optimizing decision making in the
apparel supply chain using artificial intelligence (AI): from production to retail. Woodhead
Publishing Limited, pp 106–131
138. Wong WK, Leung SYS (2013) Optimizing cut order planning in apparel production using
evolutionary strategies. In: Optimizing decision making in the apparel supply chain using
artificial intelligence (AI): from production to retail. Woodhead Publishing Limited, pp 81–
105
139. Chiu M, Lin G (2004) Collaborative supply chain planning using the artificial neural network
approach. J Manuf Technol Manag 15:787–796. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410380410565375
140. Serel DA (2016) Intelligent procurement systems to support fast fashion supply chains in the
apparel industry. In: Information systems for the fashion and apparel industry. Elsevier, pp
121–144
141. Paul SK, Azeem A (2011) An artificial neural network model for optimization of finished
goods inventory. Int J Ind Eng Comput 2:431–438. https://doi.org/10.5267/j.ijiec.2011.01.005
Advanced Technology in Apparel Manufacturing 231

142. Yu Y, Choi TM, Hui CL (2011) An intelligent fast sales forecasting model for fashion products.
Expert Syst Appl 38:7373–7379. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.eswa.2010.12.089
143. Wang L, Zeng X, Chen Y, Koehl L (2016) The use of fuzzy logic techniques to improve
decision making in apparel supply chains. In: Information systems for the fashion and apparel
industry. Elsevier, pp 9–39
144. Au KF, Choi TM, Yu Y (2008) Fashion retail forecasting by evolutionary neural networks.
Int J Prod Econ 114:615–630. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2007.06.013
145. Ngai EWT, Xiu L, Chau DCK (2009) Application of data mining techniques in customer
relationship management: a literature review and classification. Expert Syst Appl 36:2592–
2602
146. Goode MMH, Davies F, Moutinho L, Jamal A (2005) Determining customer satisfaction from
mobile phones: a neural network approach. J Mark Manag 21:755–778. https://doi.org/10.
1362/026725705774538381
147. Pan B (2016) Smart systems for improved customer choice in fashion retail outlets. In:
Information systems for the fashion and apparel industry. Elsevier, pp 109–120