A Method for Adjusting the | Oboe and English Horn Carl J. SawickiA METHOD FOR ADJUSTING THE OBOE AND ENGLISH HORN Carl J. Sawicki June 1986 All rights reserved Copyright © 1986 by Carl J. Sawicki This book may not be reproduced in whole or part, by photocopy or any other means, without permission. * For Information: Carl J. Sawicki P.O. Box 101 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 (830) 997-1994CONTENTS INTRODUCTION... PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION TOOLS NEEDED FOR ADJUSTING METHOD OF TESTING PADS. OBOE: GROUP! Screws 5, 4, 7.. GROUP I! Screws 9, 16, 12.. GROUP IE Screws 12 & 14... GROUP IV Screws 17 & 16... MISCELLANEOUS SCREWS. TOP JOINT DIAGRAM BOTTOM JOINT DIAGRAM ENGLISH HORN: INTRODUCTION. TOP JOINT... BCTTOM JOIN MISCELLANEOUS SCREWS. TOP JOINT DIAGRAM... a BOTTOM JOINT DIAGRAM..............2--2ccee eres 40INTRODUCTION My purpose in writing this booklet is to provide oboists with a simple, easy to understand method for adjusting the oboe. ! have divided the oboe into four separate adjustment-screw groups. Group | consists of the three most important adjustment screws for the main, left-hand keys (top joint). Group Il consists of the four most important adjustment screws for the main right-hand keys (bottom joint). Groups Ill and IV comprise two isolated adjustment groups for the lower joint and bell. This division into four groups simplifies the adjustment process by allowing the oboist to complete the adjustment of one group at a time, rather than jumping around in a ‘hit or miss’ fashion. On the last two pages can be found drawings showing the location of all the screws discussed in the text. If your oboe is in good condition (i.e. good Pads, no cracks, etc.) and you follow these instructions carefully, you should be able to keep your oboe in good adjustment. Jeffersonville, N.Y. September 1982PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION Since the first edition of this book, | have had many requests to supplement it with a section on English horn adjustment. Such a section is now included. The only other changes are minor revisions in the text for the sake of clarity, and a change in the format of the instru- ment diagrams. You will find them now as fold- out pages at the end of the Oboe and English horn sections. This improvement makes it easier to refer to the diagrams while reading the text. Delhi, N.Y. June 1986TOOLS NEEDED FOR ADJUSTING Screwdriver: Tip should be in good condition and width of tip should closely match adjusting screw head slots. Screwdrivers provided by the oboe manufacturer are usually quite adequate. Test papers: Standard cigarette paper cut into tapered pieces 50 to 70 mm. long. One end should be about 3 mm. wide, the other about 20 mm. The 3 mm. end is the only measurement that is really important. This end will be used for testing, and if a wider piece of paper is used a lot of sensitivity will be lost. 3mm—[__ — 20mm METHOD OF TESTING PADS Test papers should always be inserted under the front of pads — not under the entire pad. The front of a pad or key is the part that is furthest from the pivot point.On most non-touch key pads (i.e. F key, E®, C*, B®, etc.), the rib of the key actually points to the correct place for testing. (See illus.) — Test Area __ Rib points to correct Test Area of pad Test Area is —— furthest part from Pivot Point Pivot Point Rib points to correct Test Area of Pad C# pad a Pivot Point us Illus. Pad Test AreasGROUP | SCREWS #5, #4, #7 This group is probably the most important group of screws on the oboe. One of these Screws out of adjustment could destroy the play-ability of the entire oboe. Screws #4 and #7 are the most complex and the most impor- tant of Group I. Screw #5 is not as important or as complex, but the clarity and focus of the B and A are dependent upon its proper adjust- ment. Screw _#5 regulates the covering BALANCE between the two small closed keys on the top joint, or the B® and C vent keys. These keys, when not in use, must remain closed; Screw #5 regulates their EQUAL closure. With the complete oboe together, hold the oboe in the palm of your left hand, placing your hand slightly below the mid-point of the instru- ment with your left thumb on the F* key. Now, with your thumb, press the F* key; the B® and C keys on the upper joint will open. Insert a test Paper under the FRONT of the B? key, then re- lease the F* key. Pull out the paper and note the tension on the paper. Now, do the same withthe C key. Be sure to insert paper in the same position for each key. Are the tensions the same? If not, they can be adjusted by Screw #5. If the tension on the C key is less than on the B®, the adjusting screw should be turned CLOCK- WISE. Turn slowly, about an eighth of a turn at atime. After each adjustment check the bal- ance with the test paper. If you go too far with the adjustment, the tension on the B* key will be less than on the C key. If the tension on the Br key is less than on the c, the adjusting screw should be turned COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Turn slowly, about an eighth of a turn at a time, checking with the test paper after each turn. If you turn the screw too far in the counter-clockwise direction, the ten- sion on the C key will be less than on the Be key.Screws #4 and #7 For the next two tests and adjustments the oboe should remain put together and the F*key will have to remain closed. This closure will open the B® and C vent keys on the top joint. The F* can be made to close by inserting a cardboard wedge or a small piece of folded Paper under the cross-joint connecting arm. Be careful not to tear the small cork under the connecting arm. (See illus.) Connecting Arm — re Insert Wedge —(@ qs Screw #4 connects the A finger key to the small C vent key. When playing below F* the A finger key must keep the small C key closed. This closure is regulated by Screw #4. To check adjustment, first check tension or pull on test Paper under the front edge of the A key. Press= 10 key with normal playing pressure. Do this a few times to note exact amount of pull on paper. Now, place the test paper under the front edge of the small C key and press the A key with the same pressure as before. Note the tension or pull. Do this a few times, carefully noting the pull each time, then go back to the A key and test it again. Both keys should have approxi- mately the same amount of pull. If the A key pulls the paper harder than the C key, Screw #4 needs to be turned CLOCKWISE. Turn Screw #4 about an eight of a turn at atime. After each turn, check the balance with the test paper. If the screw is turned too far, the pull or tension on the A key will start to get weak. If the C key pulls the paper harder than the A key, Screw #4 needs to be turned COUNTER- CLOCKWISE. Turn an eighth of a turn at atime, checking the balance with a the test Paper after each turn. IF IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE WHICH KEY IS TIGHTER, OR EXACTLY WHEN THE TWO KEYS ARE EQUAL, THEN IT IS BEST TO AD- JUST SCREW #4 SO THE PULL OR TENSIONait ON THE A KEY IS GREATER THAN THE C KEY. BUT, THE C KEY MUST HAVE SOME PULL OR TIGHTNESS WHEN THE A KEY IS PRESSED. Screw #7 connects the G finger key to the small Be vent key. When playing below F* the G finger key must keep the small B» key closed. This closure is regulated by Screw #7. This adjustment is accomplished in the same man- ner used for Screw #4. THIS COMPLETES ADJUSTMENT OF GROUP |GROUP II INTRODUCTION Before starting this section it is important that adjusting Screws #9 and #12 be isolated from each other. This is accomplished by simply turning Screw #12 COUNTER-CLOCKWISE about one full turn. This adjustment removes any connection to the F resonance key and leaves the E key connected ONLY to the vent key. This will enable easy adjustment without interference from an overadjusted F resonance key GROUP II SCREWS #9, #10, #12 Screw #9 regulates the amount of closure bal- ance between the E and small vent key (the key/pad between E and F#). This connection, by way of Screw #9, works much the same as Screw #4 or #7 in the top joint. Also, the adjust- ment procedure and desired results are very similar. When the E key is depressed in the lower joint it must also equally close the small vent key. This closure of the vent key cannot be too13 strong so as to prevent easy closure of the E key. To test, first check the covering of the E key with cigarette paper by pressing with nor- mal pressure and checking the pull or tension at the front of the pad. Now, insert the Paper under the front of the vent key and press the E key with the same pressure as before and check the tension. Is it the same? If the vent key has less, then the adjusting screw should be turned CLOCKWISE. As before, turn a small amount at a time, checking with the cigarette Paper after each turn. When properly adjusted, closure will be about equal. If the vent is very tight and the E key tends to be loose, then the screw needs to be turned COUNTER-CLOCK- WISE. Remember, the pads should have about equal closure with a slight favoring toward the closure of the E finger pad. Screw #10 connects the D finger key to the small vent key to produce the Fork F. Check in the usual manner with cigarette Paper starting with the D finger key. Insert the cigarette paper under the front of the D finger key. Press key lightly and note the tension or pull on the paper. Now, check the connection to the vent key by placing the paper under the front of the vent key. Press the D key with the same amount ofpressure as before, and note the tension or pull on the paper by the vent key pad. Ifthe pull on the paper by the vent key is less than that of the D key, then adjusting Screw #10 needs to be turned CLOCKWISE. Check the connection with paper after each turn, as before. If the vent is very tight, or tighter than the D key, and the D key seems to be held back by overadjust- ment, then Screw #10 will have to be turned COUNTER - CLOCKWISE. Similar to the last adjustment of Screw #9, the covering or tight- ness of the D finger key should be favored when adjusting Screw #10. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER-ADJUST, making the vent key too tight. Screw #12 is the screw that was turned counter- clockwise before starting the adjustment of Group Il. After Screws #9 and #10 are adjusted properly, then Screw #12 can be ‘added in’ to complete the group. Screw #12 connects the E finger key to the F resonance key. When play- ing below E the F resonance key must remain closed—but not so closed (or tight) as to pre- vent easy closure ofthe E finger key. This is why adjusting Screw #12 was turned counter- clockwise, so as to unattach it from the E key while making adjustments of Screws #9 and #10. Now, Screw #12 should be turned CLOCK-15 WISE until the F resonance key begins to close. Begin by depressing the D key. Notice that the F resonance key opens. Next, place the test Paper under the front of the F resonance key and while still holding down the D key, lightly press the E key. Note the tension on the paper. At this point there should be no tension or pull on the paper by the F resonance key. Turn Screw #12 CLOCKWISE 1/8 turn and again check for pull on the test paper. Repeat this Procedure until you feel the F resonance key beginning to pull on the paper. The tension or pull on the paper by the F resonance key should be quite similar to the tension or pull of the small vent key when the E key (Screw #9) is depressed. Usually the F resonance tension or pull on the test paper is a little less than that of the small vent key. But, if the pads are in good Condition and seated well, then it is possible to get these adjustments almost equal. Be careful not to over-adjust (Clockwise) Screw #12. Over- adjusting will hold the E key back and make it feel ‘mushy’ to the touch. Sometimes it’s help- ful to complete this adjustment by playing the oboe. When the paper ‘just’ begins to pull under the F resonance key, try playing low E’s, D’s and C’s. The oboe should play well, butmaybe it could play better. Try this experiment: Turn Screw #12 a little more (clockwise) and try the oboe again. Does the E key feel the same? Or is it getting ‘mushy’ to the touch? If not, turn a little more and try the playing test again. If it is getting mushy, put Screw #12 back to where it was before the last turn. REMEMBER! WHEN ADJUSTING THE E AND F RESONANCE KEYS: 1. Turn Screw #12 COUNTER-CLOCKWISE 2. Adjust E to vent with Screw #9 3. Adjust D to vent (Fork F) with Screw #10 4. ‘Add-in’ F resonance with Screw #12 THIS COMPLETES ADJUSTMENT OF GROUP II17 GROUP Ill SCREWS #13 & #14 Before attempting any adjustments in this group, disengage Screw #14 by turning it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE one half turn. This will remove any connection to the E* pad. Screw #13: When playing high Cand D, the low C key is depressed with the little finger. This closes the E finger key. If the E key is not completely closed the high C* and D will tend to be out of tune and unstable. The amount of closure on the E key is regulated by Screw #13, which can be found on the Low C key. To check this adjustment, first test the Low C pad by placing the test paper under the front of the Low C pad and press the C key with normal playing pressure. Note the tension or pull on the paper. It should be quite firm. Now, place the test Paper under the front of the E key. Press the low C key again (with the same amount of pres- sure) and note the pull on the paper by the E pad. The pull on the paper should be firm, similar to that of the C pad. If the pull on the paper by the E pad is weak, then the connection can be made stronger bys 18 turning Screw #13 CLOCKWISE. Turn a small amount at a time, checking each time with the test paper. If the pull onthe paper is too strong and the C key seems to be held back, then Screw #13 should be turned COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until the closure on the E key begins to weaken. Now, adjust Screw #13 again (CLOCKWISE) as described above. DO NOT TRY TO GET THE CLOSURE OF THE E KEY TOO TIGHT. THIS WOULD PRE- VENT EASY CLOSURE OF THE C KEY. IF IN DOUBT, FAVOR THE CLOSURE OF THE C KEY. Screw #14: This screw can be found on the E» pad key. It regulates the closure of the E> pad by the C key, when the left-hand E* is held down while depressing the low C key. An indication that this is not in proper adjustment can be noticed by sustaining low C and then trilling the left-hand E*. There should be no change of sound or ‘wha wha’ heard in the C.* If there is, then the C key is not holding down the E® pad properly and should be adjusted with if Screw #14 was disengaged before adjusting Screw #13, then the ‘wha wha’ effect will be present when first playing this test.19 Screw #14. CLOCKWISE turning of Screw #14 will increase the connection of the C key to the E> key. Always turn the screw a small amount each time and test by sustaining low C and trilling the E> with the left hand; as soon as the ‘wha wha’ disappears, STOP. This is all the tightness or closure that this connection needs. Any further CLOCKWISE turning will prevent easy closure of the C key. This would make the C key touch feel ‘mushy’, requiring too much finger pressure. THIS COMPLETES ADJUSTMENT OF GROUP IllGROUP _IV SCREWS #17 & #16 When the C# key is held down while skipping to low B and B», the C# pad must remain closed. This closure is regulated by Screw #17. A simple playing test is to sustain low B and trill the C# key. No change of sound or ‘wha wha’ should be noticed. Another way to ‘play-test’ this connection would be to play low C#; now, try to skip down to low B while continuing to hold down the C# key. The movement from note to note should be clean and smooth. If one of these tests doesn’t work, then Screw #17 is probably out of adjustment. The easiest method for adjusting Screw #17 is to start by turning the screw COUNTER- CLOCKWISE one half to one full turn. Try the above two playing tests again. Neither should work. Start the adjustment process by turning Screw #17 CLOCKWISE 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Now try the tests agian. Repeat this process until both tests work.21 Be careful not to go too far with this adjustment because if Screw #17 becomes overadjusted, the low B will be held back by the C# key. This makes the B key pressure sensitive and re- quires too much little finger pressure to close the low B. Screw #16 regulates the covering balance be- tween the low B and B» keys. With the bell lined up in correct playing posi- tion, place the test paper under the front of the low B pad. Press the low B? lever or touch piece at the top of the bottom joint. Note the tension or pull on the paper by the B pad. Now, in the same manner, check the tension or pull by the B* pad. Be sure to press with the same amount of pressure for each test. The tension or pull on the paper should be about equal for each key. If not, then it usually can be adjusted with Screw #16. If the low B has less tension or pull than the low B*, then Screw #16 will have to be turned COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Turn small amounts and check, as above, after each turn.If the low B has more tension or pull than the B», then Screw #16 will have to be turned CLOCKWISE. Because the B and B? pads are usually bladder pads and do not always seat Properly, it can be difficult at times to find the exact equal tension level. Therefore, it is advis- able to complete this adjustment with a playing test. When you think the adjustment is correct, play low C and slowly skip down to low B». The movement from C to B® should be clean and smooth. If there is any hesitation when skip- ping from C to BY, or extra finger pressure seems necessary, then Screw #16 probably is still out of adjustment. When you think the adjustment is close to being correct, it is usually best to experiment for the final ‘turn’. Play the C to B» test and note the way it feels. Now, turn the screw a little CLOCKWISE. Now, play it again. Is it better? If it is, then try some more. Or, if the first clockwise turn made it seem worse, then try turning Screw #16 a little COUNTER- CLOCKWISE. Experiment with each direction until you find the best location of the adjusting screw. Sometimes the best won’t be perfect. This is due to badly seating pads or23 pads that are wearing out. So, just find the best position. NOTE: BE SURE THE C# TO B ADJUST- MENT (Screw #17) IS CORRECT. ANY OVER- ADJUSTMENT OF THIS SCREW WILL GREATLY AFFECT THE COVERING AND BALANCE OF THE B AND B® PADS. THIS COMPLETES ADJUSTMENT OF GROUP IVMISCELLANEOUS SCREWS SCREWS #8, #6, #11, #15, #1, #2 & #3 Screw #8: When playing some skips on the oboe it is necessary to keep the G# key de- pressed. But, it is also important that the G# pad is kept closed by the F# key and adjusting screw #8. One way to check this connection is to play low D, and while sustaining the D, try to trill G# with the little finger in the left hand. The sound of the D should remain the same and no change of sound or ‘wha wha’ should be noticed. If there is a change, then the F# to G# connection (Screw #8) is out of adjustment and needs to be turned CLOCKWISE. WHEN TURNING SCREW #8, IT IS ADVISABLE TO PLACE A THUMB ON THE CROSS JOINT ARM (at the rear of the F# key). THIS WILL KEEP THE F# OPEN AND PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE G# PAD ON THE TOP JOINT. Turn a little at a time (1/8 to 1/4 turn) and check with the above playing test after each turn of the screw. Over-adjustment (too far Clockwise) will make the F# pressure sensitive. So, stop turn- ing as soon as the above test begins to work.25 Screw #6 regulates the amount of play or wasted movement in the F# key before it makes contact with the cross joint connecting key on the top joint. There should be a slight amount of play or movement before the F# key, when depressed, makes firm contact with the top joint connecting key and begins to open the C and B? vent keys. But, this space should be minimal and can be adjusted by Screw #6. Turning the screw CLOCKWISE increases the amount of space and turning the screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE decreases the space between the F# key and the connector arm. Screw #11 regulates the height of the low D key. CLOCKWISE turning of this screw will lower the height of the D key and COUNTER- CLOCKWISE turning of Screw #11 will usually raise the key. Sometimes raising the key is not Possible because the screw is already in its extreme ‘out’ or counter-clockwise position, and flush or even with the bottom of the screw tube. Lowering the D pad will sometimes correct a too bright or slightly sharp E.Screw #15 is the contact point between the left- hand E* key and the large flat spring at the bottom of the E* pad. The left-hand E> opens (or plays) when the large spring is depressed. Screw #15 is rarely adjusted. Turning the screw CLOCKWISE will sometimes make the left-hand E* open higher and sound somewhat clearer. But, care must be taken not to turn the screw too far clockwise, because a small amount of Space must always remain between the screw end and the flat spring. Absence of this space could disturb the linkage between the lower joint and bell, causing the B® vent key (on the bell) to remain open at all times. Screw #1 connects the upper octave key to the thumb octave key pad and regulates the amount of opening of both. CLOCKWISE turn- ing of this screw decreases the amount of Opening of both octave keys. COUNTER- CLOCKWISE turning increases the opening of both keys. Screw #2 also regulates the opening of the thumb octave pad. CLOCKWISE turning of Screw #2 decreases the opening of the thumb octave pad. COUNTER-CLOCKWISE turning of27 the screw increases the opening of the pad. SCREWS #1 AND #2 ARE RARELY ADJUSTED Screw #3 regulates the Opening or height of the ‘half-hole’ key. CLOCKWISE turning of Screw #3 decreases opening (lowers pad). COUNTER- CLOCKWISE turning of screw increases open- ing (raises pad). THIS COMPLETES THE ADJUSTMENT OF THE MISCELLANEOUS SCREW GROUPENGLISH HORN INTRODUCTION Adjusting the English Horn seems to be a world of the unknown for most oboists. Even players who are quite proficient in adjusting their own oboe are hesitant to turn screws on an English Horn or oboe d’amore*. The additional screws around the G,D and E seem confusing. Actually, adjusting an English Horn is no more complicated than adjusting an oboe, if one compares the G, D and E adjustments on the horn to adjusting the F resonance on the oboe. If you are comfortable with adjusting your oboe and are reasonably proficient in adjusting the F resonance, then you should have no difficulty understanding the following instructions on English Horn adjustment. * The Oboe d’amore and English Horn mechanisms are identical.31 ENGLISH HORN - Top Joint The adjustment of the top joint of the English Horn is approached in somewhat the same manner as that of the lower joint of the oboe. What this means is that Screw #E7a on the small resonance key must be disengaged be- fore beginning the top-joint adjustments. Once all other top joint adjustments are completed, Screw #E7a will be ‘added in’ to complete the top joint. Disengaging Screw #E7a: This screw can be found directly behind the G pad. Turn the screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE at least one-half turn. This removes any connection between the resonance key and the G key. After Screw #E7a has been disengaged, adjust the other top joint screws in the following order: Screw #E5 — balance between the Bb and C vent pads. The same as #5 on the oboe. Screw #E4 — connection between A key andC vent. The same as #4 on the oboe.= 32 Screw #E7 — connection between G key and Bb vent. The same as #7 on the oboe. When the above screws are properly adjusted, Screw #E7a can be ‘added in’. Place a test paper under the front of the G pad and press the G key with normal playing pressure. Note the pull or tension on the paper. Now place the paper in the front of the resonance pad and press the G key again, with the same amount of Pressure. There should be no pull or tension on the paper because Screw #E7a was disengaged earlier. Now, turn Screw #E7a CLOCKWISE 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Check again with the test paper. Repeat this procedure until you feel the resonance key beginning to pull on the paper. The tension or pull on the paper by the reso- nance pad should be a little less than that of the G pad. Actually, it should be quite similar to the tension or pull of the B® vent pad, as when making the G to B® adjustment. OVER-ADJUSTMENT OF SCREW #E7a WILL MAKE THE G KEY PRESSURE SENSITIVE, REQUIRING TOO MUCH FINGER PRESSURE.33 ENGLISH HORN - Bottom Joint Because there are more screws on the bottom joint and their locations a little different than on the oboe, adjusting the English Horn may seem difficult. Actually itisn’t, because all the screws that are on the oboe bottom joint are also on the English Horn, just in different places. There is only one extra screw that is important in the adjusting process; the other extra screws are ones that rarely need to be adjusted. The ‘key’ to the bottom joint is the F Reson- ance / E adjustment. As on the oboe, Screws #E9, #E10 and #E12 (a and b) are the basis for this adjustment. These screws are equivalent to 9, 10 and 12 on the oboe. Screws #12a and #12b should be thought of as one screw. That is, either one can function as Screw #12 does on the oboe. F Resonance /E Adjustment Screws #9, #10, #12a & #12b: Just as on the oboe, the F resonance and E adjustment is accomplished by these ‘3’ screws. Remember to think of Screws #12a and #12b as one.Start this adjustment by turning either Screw #12a or #12b one halfto one full turn COUNTER- CLOCKWISE. This will remove any connection between the E and F resonance keys, allowing easy adjustment of the E to the small vent key / pad. Adjust Screw #E9 in the same manner as Screw #9 on the oboe. Be sure to favor the closure of the E pad (slightly more tension or pull on the paper) when making this adjustment. Then adjust Screw E#10 to com- plete the connection between the D key and the small vent key. This is the same as the adjust- ment for Screw #10 on the oboe — see oboe section. Once Screws #E9 and #E10 are adjusted cor- rectly, Screw #E12 (a or b) should be ‘added in’ to complete this group. USE THE SCREW (12a or b) THAT WAS TURNED COUNTER- CLOCKWISE EARLIER. Begin by depressing the D key. Next, place the test paper under the front of the F resonance pad and while still holding down the D key, lightly press the E key. Note the tension or pull on the paper. At this point there should be no tension or pull on the paper by the F resonance pad. Turn Screw #E12 (a or b) CLOCKWISE 1/8 turn and again check for pull on the test paper. Repeat this35 Procedure until you feel the F resonance pad beginning to pull on the paper. The tension or pull on the paper by the F resonance pad should be quite similar to the tension or pull of the small vent pad when the E key (Screw #E9) is depressed. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER-ADJUST (TURN CLOCKWISE) SCREW #E12. Over-adjusting will make the Eand D keys feel ‘mushy’, requiring too much finger pressure. Screw #E20: This screw is part of the Screw #E9 and #£10, or E/D, group listed above. itis rarely adjusted because turning it clockwise or counter-clockwise affects both the E-to-vent and D-to-vent adjustments. Clockwise turning makes both adjustments stronger; counter- clockwise makes both weaker. If, when adjusting Screw #E9 or #E1 0, the screw will not go clockwise far enough to complete an adjustment, a little extra can be ‘added’ by turn- ing Screw #E20 CLOCKWISE. But, if you turn it clockwise to increase the connection of the E key to the vent, then the adjustment on the D key will have to be turned counter-clockwise~ 36 and re-adjusted (clockwise). Of course, if you turn Screw #E20 for the D-to-vent adjustment, you must re-adjust the E-to-vent connection (Screw #E10). REMEMBER, TURNING SCREW #E20 AFFECTS BOTH THE E-TO-VENT AND THE D-TO-VENT CONNECTIONS. Screw #E21: This screw functions in exactly the same way as Screw #E20. It can be turned clockwise if Screw #E19 or #E12 (a or b) have ‘hit bottom’ or can be turned clockwise no further. This screw is rarely turned because it is highly unlikely that either Screw #E12 (a and b) or #E19 would ‘hit bottom’. IT IS BEST TO LEAVE THIS SCREW ALONE. Screw #E19: This screw connects the C key to the F resonance key. When playing a ‘fork’ fingering, such as first finger and little finger with the right hand, the F resonance pad should be fully closed when the C key is depressed. The F resonance pad should not be so tightly closed as to hold back the closure of the C key. This would be due to having Screw #E19 turned too far CLOCKWISE. CLOCKWISE turning of37 Screw #E£19 makes the connection to the F resonance pad stronger (covers more tightly) and COUNTER-CLOCKWISE turning makes the connection weaker. WHEN IN DOUBT, FAVOR THE CLOSURE OR TIGHTNESS OF THE C KEY. Screw #E13: This screw functions exactly like screw #13 on the oboe. It adjusts the connec- tion between the C and E keys and is needed for High C#’s and D’s. Some older English horns do not have this screw. See page 17 for Specific instructions.- 38 MISCELLANEOUS SCREWS Other screws not listed in the above sections are: Screw for F#to G# (#8 oboe) Screw for Low C to E® pad (#14 oboe) Screw for Low E» pad (#15 oboe) Screw for Low B to C# (#17 oboe) Octave Screws on the top joint ALL THESE SCREWS ARE ADJUSTED EX- ACTLY THE SAME ON THE ENGLISH HORN AS ON THE OBOE. Screw #16 on the oboe is not found on the English horn because it is for the Low B to Be adjustment.