main engine
main engine
For more details please refer to Procedure 905-4 of maker's Maintenance Manual
(Volume 2).
3. Also check the journal bearing by visually searching the area underneath the
bearing support
Overhaul procedures:
1. Clean and inspect the bearing shells, it is recommended that the main bearing
shells be replaced in pairs.
2. Before remounting;
1.Check the bearing support for damage and burrs. if damage is found contact MAN
B&W diesel for advice.
2. Make sure that all parts are clean use non-fluffy cloth to clean between journal
and bearing support.
3. Lubricate the bearing journal the bearing support and the back of the shell,
with main engine lubricating oil.
the measurement of reading should be taken at the same r/min as during the sea
trials preferably 90percenetage and 100percentage. of MCR.
As different equipment can have been mounted on the specific engines the checking
procedure describes three different systems.
chain check:
*** ALL NECESSARY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TO BE OBSERVED***
Chains checking
1. The engine is equipped with a set of chains: the drive chains for the camshaft.
the set of chains is to be checked and if necessary dismantled and mounted in the
same way.
2. Inspect lube oils pipes for damage and check jet nozzles for possible stoppage
or deformations.
3. Examine the rubber track of the guideways for cracks or other damage. Replace
the guideways if bits have started to be "plucked out" of the rubber track.
4. Check the teeth of the chain wheels. If abnormal wear is found take a
measurement. See DATA. Measurements are best taken by pacing a short straight edge
over points A and B and then measuring the distance D.
5. If abnormal wear is observed at the bottom of the teeth make a drawing in scale
1:1 of the teeth and wear profile. Measure the geometry of the bottom and note down
all available measurements including D-A and D-B on the drawing. D-B is best found
by placing a short straight edge between the tip of the two teeth. For assessing
the measurement result contact MAN B&W Diesel.
Whenever the link is bent owing to the contact of the chain and the sprocket,
the chain might loosen with the wear of the pin and bush. Because Dong Bo Marine
Engine
Roller Chain is a much higher quality then standard manufactured roller chain the
wear will
The inspection and repairs is exactly needed for the complete life of the chain.
As the chain loosens, you can see the wear of the pin and the surface of bush. The
chain for
a marine diesel engine must not be exchanged for 10 years, even though it might be
loose.
You must measure the loose length regularly to check the life of the chain. That's
why both
(1) While operating the engine slowly, you tighten up the loose chain and set up
the
first tension, referring to section 4. After stopping the engine, you measure the
length of
(2) After measuring L1 and L2, you calculate the real length L of the chain. Look
at
picture 11.
(3) You measure it more than 6 pitches to minimize the measurement error.
(4) In the Table 1 the loose maximum tolerance is 1% longer than the standard
length.
If the measured length exceeds the maximal allowable length you must change the
chain.
The crack on the link plate shows the first sign that the fatigue limit exceeded
the chain.
Generally, the crack is a slow progress. So examine the link plate carefully and
you will
prevent an accident.
If you do find a crack on the link plate, even if it is a small one, the whole
chain MUST be
changed. That is because every link gets weakened on the same condition. Picture
12.
The roller doesn't cause the problem by the impact; it is the severe vibration that
makes
the crack happen on the rollers. You must check for cracks on the rollers often.
To prevent the fatigue fracture you must minimize the vibration of the chain as
much as
possible. If you adjust the tension of the chain and can not stop the vibrating,
you must
Vibrations are usually caused by the chains becoming loose by stretching and wear.
These vibrations can be reduced as you change the tension. Engine manufactures
specifications
should be checked. You should make the first tension a half of the tension, which
is affected
in the chain while driving. If it is difficult to measure the tension you should
adjust it.
See picture 10
After shop test and sea trial test the chain which is used first may be expanded
for about
0.02~0.05%. So you should adjust the chains tension and must not loosen it. As the
tension
is adjusted, you won't be able to see the loose chain, and you must tighten up the
loose
To examine whether the chain roller and sprocket teeth exactly line up, you should
check the contact trace and the part of the wear in the inner teeth after SHOP
TEST.
If they precisely line up, the width of the contact surface will be fixed as ? or ?
in the
Picture 13. If the contact surface isn't level the roller and sprockets are nit in
a
On the whole the roller doesn't make contact between the sprocket teeth. But if the
chain
roller is tensioned on the loose part, you can see the were from this.
When idler or tightener is tilted, the contact point will be the bottom between the
teeth
as ? in the Picture 13.
The sprocket teeth also can be worn while contacting the chain roller continually.
Picture 14
Data:
1. To retighten the chains loosen nuts A.B, C and D to free the chain tightener
bolt.
Turn the engine at least once revolution with the chain slackened on the same side
as the chain tightener wheel.
2. Turn the engine at least one revolution with the chain slackened on the same
side as the chain tightener wheel. if the engine is equipped with flywieghts
continue turning until the flyweights are hanging vertically downwards.
3. Tighten nut B on the chain tightener bolt until there is a clearance between the
shaft and the nut as stated in D06-25.
Then tighten nut B as stated in D006-21. for chain wear see procedures -906.1.1
Tighten nut D
5. The number of times that retightening can be carried out depends on when the
limit for scrapping the chain has been reached. See Data page 106-1.
CAMSHAFT CHECKS:
*** ALL NECESSARY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TO BE OBSERVED***
Data:
Camshaft checking:
1. Turn the cranthrow for cylinder 1 to TDC
turn in the ahead direction to ensure that the tension of the chain on the chain
drive is correct if necessary, adjust the chain tension.
Check the TDC of cylinder 1 against the mark on the turning wheel.
2. Use the check measurement value stamped on the pin gauges to check the pin gauge
for deformation.
on some engines the pin gauges can be checked against punch marks made on the front
cylinder frame.
3. check the TDC poistion with the pin gauge on the crankthrow.
Position the camshaft pin gauge in the center punch mark and measure the devation
if any in lead angle.
4. Position the camshaft pin gauge in the center punch mark and measure the
deviation if any in lead angle.
5. Check and if necessary adjust the cylinder lubricator see procedure 903-2.1,
check the setting of starting air distributor See procedure 907-11.
6. when checking the camshaft position, also check the running surface of the cams.
As the inspection must include the entire surface of the cam, the cam should be
turned one complete revolution during the inspection.
The running surface of the cam must be completely smooth and bright.
7. If the light scratches are ascertained remove them by carefully polishing the
cam in the direction of rotation with a fine carborudum stone. such light scratches
can appear if the rolle guide and the cam are not correctly aligned.
in the event of heavier scratches or direct flaking of the material on the running
path, MAN B&W Diesel should be contacted for further instruction.
Adjustment:
1. If the chains prove to be so heavily worn that the deviation between the
measuring points and the pin gauge has reached the maximum value D06-28 stated in
Data, MAN B&W Diesel should be contacted for further instruction.
For more details please refer to procedure 906-5.1 of maker's Maintenance Manual
(Volume 2).
CAMSHAFT BEARING CHECK/INSPECTION:
Data:
1. As the upper shell of the camshaft bearing assembly has been dispensed with on
this engine, it is no longer necessary to measure the top clearance of the camshaft
bearing.
Dismount the inspection covers from the front of the camshaft housing.
Check for wiped-out metal at the bearing ends, and for fragments of metal in the
camshaft housing.
In the event of any signs of anomalies, the bearing shell must be dismantled for
closer investigation and, if necessary, the bearing
If no anomalies are found during the visual inspection, dismantling need not be
carried out.
When checking the camshaft bearings, it is recommended also to check the condition
of the fuel and exhaust cams.
1. Remove the inspection covers on each side of the bearing from the camshaft
housing.
Dismount the lubricating oil connecting pipe and the plug screws from the baseplate
above the bearing in question.
Lift the roller guide of the exhaust valve hydraulic pump. See Procedure 908-7.
2. Loosen the bearing cap screws through the holes in the baseplate.
Place a dial gauge on the camshaft, and lift the camshaft 0.20 mm.
4. Press lightly on the upper edge of the shell to turn the shell up over the
camshaft.
overhaul:
1. For assessment of the bearing condition, see Volume I OPERATION, Chapter 708
‘Bearings’.
If seizures are found on the bearing journal surface (on account of bearing
breakdown),
polish the surface with a fine carborundum stone to re-establish a bright and
smooth surface.
the bearing surface has been insufficient or entirely missing. Normally, camshaft
bearing damage only occurs due to faulty lubrication.
Measure the thickness of the bearing shell with a micrometer to check the amount of
wear
1. Clean the bearing journal, the bearing support and the bearing shell.
shell with plenty of lubricating oil. Mount the shell on the camshaft, and turn it
into place.
Relieve the hydraulic jack of pressure to lower the camshaft. Remove the dial
gauge,the pieces of wood and the hydraulic jack
3. Place the bearing cap on the camshaft and mount the outermost bearing cap screw.
Tighten the outermost screw lightly by handuntil the clearance given in D06-33 is
reached. Then mount and tighten the innermost
screw with a torque spanner. See Data D06-31. This procedure ensures thatthe
outermost screw will obtain the correct torque.
Check the clearance D06-33 on both sides of the camshaft. Then mount the
lubricating oil pipe and the plug screws in the baseplate.
4. Clean the camshaft housing and mount the inspection covers.
Data:
Checking
1. Turn the engine in AHEAD direction to bring the piston of cylinder No. 1 to TDC.
Check with the pin gauge.
2. Remove the plug screw and gasket from the side of the distributor housing, and
insert check pin K in slot S.
If pin K is not available, use the cylindrical end of a drill of a suitable size.
3. If the check pin cannot enter the slot, i.e. if the slot is not aligned with the
hole in the distributor housing, the air distributor must be adjusted.
1.Turn the engine in AHEAD direction to bring the piston of cylinder 1 to TDC.
2.Dismount the end cover of the camshaft housing, along with the starting air
distributor, from the engine.
Remove the plug screw and gasket from the side of the distributor housing, and
insert check pin K in slot S.
Turn the shaft together with the distributor disc until check pin K enters slot S
in the disc and keep it there.
3.Check and, if necessary, adjust clearance D07-03 between the gear wheel and the
bushing.
4. Remove the lower half of the gearwheel drive cover. Mount the upper half of the
gearwheel drive cover with the complete
starting air distributor after loosening the gear wheel on the camshaft, and then
engage the two gear wheels by turning the wheel on the camshaft.
Tighten and lock the gear wheel screws on the camshaft, see Data, D07-01.
5. Remove check pin K from the distributor housing and mount the gasket and plug
screw.
6. Check the clearance between the roller and the two interlocking valves with the
roller in its innermost and outermost positions, respectively (ASTERN and AHEAD).
1. When the starting air valve has been overhauled, see Procedure 907-2.3, connect
a supply of working air to the control air inlet
at the top of the valve. Check that the valve opens approx. 15-20 mm.
2. Shut off the air supply Check that the valve closes fully.
1. Shut off the starting air and control air in- let.
2. Pull the starting air valve out of the cylinder cover and remove it from the
engine.
OVERHAUL:
1. Remove the top cover fixing screws and remove the cover.
2. Remove the split pin and screw off the nut from the valve spindle.
3. Remove the disc, the piston, the valve spring, the distance pipe, and the liner
from the top end of the valve housing.
Remove the valve spindle from the bottom end of the valve housing. Remove and
discard the O-ring.
4. Grind the valve housing seating with the grinding ring after applying grinding
paste.
Grind the seatings of the spindle and housing to match, using the face wrench to
rotate the valve spindle.
with, for instance, Molybdenum Disulphide, Mos,.First mount the liner in the valve
housing,then the valve spindle, the distance pipe, the spring, the piston and the
disc.
7. Mount the nut on the valve spindle and tighten the nut, see Data D07-09.
9. If the starting air valve is not to be mounted in the engine immediately after
the overhaul, all openings of the valve should be covered with plastic to prevent
dirt from entering the valve during storage.
MOUNTING:
1.Carefully clean the starting valve bore in the cylinder cover and, if necessary,
recondition the seat for the starting valve in the bore.
If not already done, replace the O-ring on the overhauled valve and lubricate with
‘Never Seize’ or Molybdenum Disulphide,
Mount the control air pipe and turn on starting air and control air.
Also see Volume 1, Chapter 710, pages P-4-1 to P-4-6 "Standard dimension, clearance
& seating"
1. Check of valve spindle rotation The engine must run when the valve function and
spindle rotation are checked. Lift
the valve spindle rotation indicator, turn it 90° and let it rest on the air
piston.
The indicator will now follow the movements of the valve spindle and the air
piston. During rotation of the valve spindle,
the top position of the indicator will change about 6 mm, because of the ridge on
the piston.
During engine operation, the spindle must rotate. The rotation can vary with unit
and engine load. In the event of no rotation, attention
When check of the valve rotation is fi nished, lift the rotation indicator and lock
it in the top position.
Exhaust valve performance condition See volume I chapter 706 Performance Evaluation
With the exhaust valve mounted in the cylinder cover, check the cooling water inlet
and outlet to the cylinder cover and exhaust valve is open.
Check the tightness of the sealing rings between the bottom piece and the exhaust
valve housing. If water fl ows from the small bore on the manoeuvring side of the
exhaust valve, the lowermost sealing ring is leaking.
If water fl ows from any of the rings, the exhaust valve must be dismounted and the
sealing rings replaced
In connection with port stays, at an interval of e.g. one month, an easy check of
all exhaust valves is recommended.
Shut off and release the spring air on the valve, next to the engineside
manoeuvring stand.
Check the drop down time for all spindles:
Check and overhaul, See next step “Check of Air Spring tightness”.
• Spindles dropping down between 30 minutes and 1 hour: Keep under observation.
When check of drop down time is finished, lift the rotation indicators and lock
them in the top position.
4. Check of Air spring tightness Connect compressed air to the non return
Disconnect and remove the drain oil pipe from the oil cylinder (C).
• Pipe for drain oil (C): If yes, the leakage comes from the safety valve or the
air
piston. Check the safety valve (D). If air still is coming out, the leakage comes
• Remove the air supply to the nonreturn valve on the air cylinder and check the
nonreturn valve for tightness.
The checks is for guidance only, minor leaks is diffi cult to detect.
1. Oil cylinder
Place the exhaust valve on a wooden support on the platform. Remove the nuts and
depending on valve model the safety strap from the oil cylinder.
Relieve the air pressure through the nonreturn valve from below the piston. Use a
small screwdriver to press the ball into
the nonreturn valve. Cover the nonreturn valve with a rag to catch the oil drops.
Remove the four screws from the flange on top of the air piston and dismount the
flange.
Loosen the air piston from the conical locking ring by means of a tin hammer, and
remove the conical locking ring.
3. Spindle
Use the oil cylinder as a lifting tool for the exhaust valve housing. Lift the oil
cylinder with the crane, and guide it down over the studs for the oil cylinder.
Mount four nuts so that the load from the valve housing is evenly distributed.
Lift the valve housing clear of the valve spindle. Take care – when the internal
Oring in the air piston and the internal rings for the sealing arrangement at the
bottom of the air cylinder pass the groove for the conical ring at the top of the
spindle.
4. Bottom piece
Unscrew and remove the lock screws which retain the bottom piece. Lift the valve
housing approx. 10 mm.
If the bottom piece has become stuck, use a tin hammer to release it.
Lift the valve housing away and land it on a couple of wooden planks. Remove the
oil cylinder.
Use carborundum 200 and the special grinding tool. Turn the special grinding tool
by hand, turning alternately clockwise and anticlockwise. Grind until a smooth
surface is achieved.
Make sure that the grooves for the sealing rings are clean.
Heat the U-seal in 100°C hot water for minimum five minutes and then mount it in
the groove immediately.
Use the oil cylinder as a lifting tool for the exhaust valve housing.
If fitted, check that the guide pin in the bottom piece enters the hole in the
bottom of the exhaust valve housing.
Land the exhaust valve housing on the bottom piece. Mount and tighten the retaining
Check the oil level in the bottom of the air cylinder. Unscrew and remove the
nonreturn valve and the safety valve.
fill oil into the non-return valve hole until oil flows out from the safety valve
hole. Refit the two valves again.
Check that a 1.0 mm feeler gauge can be inserted about 15 mm into gap G3, to ensure
that there is a clearance between the
Also see Volume 1, Chapter 710, pages P-4-1 to P-4-6 "Standard dimension, clearance
& seating"
1. Check of valve spindle rotation The engine must run when the valve function and
spindle rotation are checked. Lift
the valve spindle rotation indicator, turn it 90° and let it rest on the air
piston.
The indicator will now follow the movements of the valve spindle and the air
piston. During rotation of the valve spindle,
the top position of the indicator will change about 6 mm, because of the ridge on
the piston.
During engine operation, the spindle must rotate. The rotation can vary with unit
and engine load. In the event of no rotation, attention
should be paid to avoid seat problems.
When check of the valve rotation is fi nished, lift the rotation indicator and lock
it in the top position.
Exhaust valve performance condition See volume I chapter 706 Performance Evaluation
With the exhaust valve mounted in the cylinder cover, check the cooling water inlet
and outlet to the cylinder cover and exhaust valve is open.
Check the tightness of the sealing rings between the bottom piece and the exhaust
valve housing. If water fl ows from the small bore on the manoeuvring side of the
exhaust valve, the lowermost sealing ring is leaking.
If water fl ows from any of the rings, the exhaust valve must be dismounted and the
sealing rings replaced
In connection with port stays, at an interval of e.g. one month, an easy check of
all exhaust valves is recommended.
Shut off and release the spring air on the valve, next to the engineside
manoeuvring stand.
Check and overhaul, See next step “Check of Air Spring tightness”.
• Spindles dropping down between 30 minutes and 1 hour: Keep under observation.
When check of drop down time is finished, lift the rotation indicators and lock
them in the top position.
4. Check of Air spring tightness Connect compressed air to the non return
Disconnect and remove the drain oil pipe from the oil cylinder (C).
• Pipe for drain oil (C): If yes, the leakage comes from the safety valve or the
air
piston. Check the safety valve (D). If air still is coming out, the leakage comes
from the air piston: change and overhaul.
• Remove the air supply to the nonreturn valve on the air cylinder and check the
nonreturn valve for tightness.
The checks is for guidance only, minor leaks is diffi cult to detect.
1. Oil cylinder
Place the exhaust valve on a wooden support on the platform. Remove the nuts and
depending on valve model the safety strap from the oil cylinder.
Relieve the air pressure through the nonreturn valve from below the piston. Use a
small screwdriver to press the ball into
the nonreturn valve. Cover the nonreturn valve with a rag to catch the oil drops.
Remove the four screws from the flange on top of the air piston and dismount the
flange.
Loosen the air piston from the conical locking ring by means of a tin hammer, and
remove the conical locking ring.
3. Spindle
Use the oil cylinder as a lifting tool for the exhaust valve housing. Lift the oil
cylinder with the crane, and guide it down over the studs for the oil cylinder.
Mount four nuts so that the load from the valve housing is evenly distributed.
Lift the valve housing clear of the valve spindle. Take care – when the internal
Oring in the air piston and the internal rings for the sealing arrangement at the
bottom of the air cylinder pass the groove for the conical ring at the top of the
spindle.
4. Bottom piece
Unscrew and remove the lock screws which retain the bottom piece. Lift the valve
housing approx. 10 mm.
If the bottom piece has become stuck, use a tin hammer to release it.
Lift the valve housing away and land it on a couple of wooden planks. Remove the
oil cylinder.
To check the valve, dismantle and clean it and connect a supply of working air (7
bar) to the outlet side of the valve (the side facing the actuator). If the air
flow can be felt at the inlet side of the valve, the valve must be overhauled.
DISMANTLE:
Turn the camshaft so that the roller rests on the circular part of the cam.
Dismount the inlet pipe and the drain pipe from the exhaust valve.
2.Fit eye screws in the lifting holes of the actuator housing and hook on a tackle.
Unscrew the nuts on the two short studs, then loosen the nuts on the long studs
successively until the roller guide spring is relieved.
Dismount the nuts and lift the housing carefully, leaving the piston on top of the
roller guide.
Overhaul procedures
1. Clean the piston in kerosene and wipe dry with a clean piece of cloth.
Take off the piston rings and check them for wear. If the ring thickness has worn
down to the minimum (see Data), discard the rings and mount new ones.
Check that the TOP mark on the piston rings faces upwards when mounting.
2. Inspect the sliding surfaces of the piston to ensure that there are no scratch
marks or seizure marks.
3. Clean the oil cylinder and inspect the bores for deposits.
Check the bore of the oil cylinder for possible scores and measure it for wear.
If the bore is seized or worn down to the measurement stated in Data, send the oil
cylinder to an MAN B&W authorised workshop for reconditioning.
MOUNTING:
1. Mount the actuator piston in the roller guide and turn 90° to lock it in the
bayonet joint.
Mount the locking plate and tighten as stated in Data. Lubricate the piston with
plenty of camshaft lubricating oil.
2.Mount the spring on the roller guide. Carefully lower the actuator housing on to
the piston, taking care not to damage the piston rings.
Mount the washers and nuts on the two long studs and tighten alternately until the
actuator housing rests firmly against the roller guide housing.
Mount the washers and nuts on the two short studs. Tighten all four nuts as stated
in Data.
Note:Use only the tightening angle OR the tightening torque, NOT both.
3.Mount the oil inlet pipe and the drain pipe from the exhaust valve.
ME Exh Valve actuator safety valve to be checked and adjusted in accordance with
Maker Instruction manual.
Data:
Turn the engine to provide the maximum space between the roller guide and the cam
disc.
Check the movability of the roller by turning this by hand to ascertain if the
roller moves freely and without unnecessary resistance or “hard” points.
Also inspect the surface of the roller for possible damage marks, seizures or
scratches. Make sure that no traces of bearing metal exist in the roller guide
housing.
Check the clearance in the slide bearing by lifting the roller relative to the
roller guide and measuring the difference in distance between the cam disc and the
roller in the upper and lower positions of the roller.
3. A more suitable and reliable method is to check the roller guide and the bearing
clearance when the roller guide is dismounted.
cedure 908-4.2.
4. Inspect the surfaces of the roller guide and the roller for damage marks,
seizures or scratches.
5. To measure the clearance in the roller guide slide bearing, place the roller
guide vertically upside down on a couple of planks with the roller hanging freely.
6. Place a dial gauge against the roller. Then lift the roller as much as the
clearance permits, which makes it possible to read the clearance directly on the
dial, see Data.
1. Dismantle the hydraulic actuator above the exhaust valve roller guide. See
Procedure 908-3.2.
2. Lift the roller guide out of the roller guide housing by hand. Take care not to
damage the sliding surfaces of the roller guide when lifting.
Note!
For disassembling of the roller guide, contact an MAN B&W authorized repair shop.
3. If no irregularities are found, just clean and lubricate the roller guide before
remounting it in the roller guide bushing.
1. Clean and lubricate the sliding surfaces of the roller and the roller guide and
lower it carefully into the roller guide bushing by hand.
ME Exh Valve Roller Guide & Exh Valve Cam to be inspected only through camshaft
cover.
Data:
Check and write down the angle indicated on the turning wheel.
Mount and tighten the lifting tool for the exhaust valve roller guide to the
actuator piston (remove the screws for tightening to the actuator housing and do
not lift the roller guide).
Mount a dial gauge (measuring range 0.00- 20.00 mm) on the lifting tool for the
exhaust
Press the dial gauge against the face of the actuator housing until the reading
D08-39 + 1.00 mm is obtained.
3. Turn the roller guide in AHEAD direction until lifted to D08-39, and the dial
gauge gives the reading 1.00 mm and calculate
the angle A, which is the number of degrees the crank throw has turned from TDC
position to the present position.
Continue turning AHEAD until the roller guide again is lifted to D08-39, and the
dial gauge gives the reading 1.00 mm.
Calculate the angle B, which is the number of degrees the crank throw has turned
from TDC position to the present position.
Note!
When calculating the angles A and B, remember to take into account that the scale
on the turning wheel shifts from 360 to O (zero) degrees
The illustration shows the position of the exhaust cam when the piston of the
relevant cylinder is in TDC.
The cam lead angle can be checked visually by reading directly the scale position
of the exhaust cam over the marking scratch on the camshaft and comparing this
angle with the angle stated in the Adjustment Sheet.
At the same time, it is recommended to check the position of the camshaft with the
pin gauge. See Procedure 906-3.1
Normally, adjustment of the exhaust cams should not be necessary. Before adjustment
of any cams, see Volume I, Chapter 706.
3. Turn the camshaft until there is access to the oil ducts in the exhaust cam
through the inspection hole.
Mount snap-on couplings in the oil ducts, but do not tighten them.
Fit hoses between the snap-on couplings and the distributor block and between the
distributor block and the hydraulic high pressure pump.
4. Mount the special spanner on the exhaust cam disc, ensuring that the two pins
enter the holes in the cam.
Apply a light pressure to the hydraulic system and, after venting the system,
tighten the snap-on couplings.
Raise the hydraulic pressure until oil seeps out along the camshaft under the cam
disc.
Keep the cam pressurised for at least two to five minutes before turning the cam.
Oil must sweep out with the pump running during the operation.
5. Turn the cam disc, using the fitted spanner, until the desired change of lead is
obtained.
cam disc, relieve the hydraulic system of pressure and dismount the spanner and the
hydraulic equipment.
Wait at least 15 minutes - the cam must be allowed time to “settle” — before
mountingthe plugs again in the oil ducts of the cam disc.
After carrying out adjustment, measure the exhaust cam lead again. See procedure
908-5.1.
Write down and file the new results for the purpose of comparing with future
measurements and adjustment.
7. Mount the oil tray on the camshaft housing. See procedure 906-4.4.
8. Mount the high pressure pipe for the exhaust valve. See procedure 908-1.4
9. After any adjustment of the cam position, Peomp must be recorde€d and compared
with at a known engine reference load.
pmax adjustment:
1. Before Maximum Combustion Pressure (pmax) is adjusted, loosen the drain oil pipe
from the top cover and dismount the top
cover fixing nuts. Remove the two screws in the threaded holes of the top cover.
2. Screw the two dismantling screws (from the tool panel) into the theaded holes of
the top cover, thus lifting the top cover to provide space for inserting or
removing shims.
4. Remove the dismantling screws, and press down the top cover by hand. Mount the
two original screws to protect the threaded holes. Mount and tighten the nuts for
the top cover, see Procedure 909-5.
Note:The individual pmax value must not deviate more than 3 bar from the average
value for all cylinders.
MIP adjustment:
5. The Mean Indicated Pressure (pi) for a certain cylinder is adjusted on the fuel
pump index arm.
Increase index for higher pi. Decrease index for lower pi.
Note: The mean indicated pressure is one of the most important parameters, in
obtaining good engine performance.
The mean indicated pressure should not deviate more than 0.5 bar from the average
value for all cylinders. See Volume I,
Chapter 706.
The lead C of the fuel cam is defined as the number of mm the plunger is lifted
from its bottom position when the main piston is in TDC.
1. To measure the fuel cam lead (top lift): Dismantle the suction valve and the
puncture valve. See Procedures 909-7.2 and
909-8.2.
2. Push down the measuring pin through the top cover, until it rests against the
pump plunger.
Turn the engine until the lowest point of the cam is found, use a calliper to find
the point.
3. Measure the distance x from the top of the measuring pin to the top cover. Note
down the result as x2.
4. Turn ahead until the main piston of the cylinder concerned is in TDC.
Again measure the distance x from the top of the measuring tool to the top cover.
Note down the result as x1.
5. Note down the result for comparison with the testbed results and for future
reference.
For adjustment of the fuel cam lead, see Procedure 909-3.3. Remount the suction
valve and the puncture valve.
Normally, adjustment of the fuel cam should not be necessary. Before adjustment of
fuel equipment,
2. Dismount the puncture valve and the suction valve from the fuel pump top cover,
and mount the measuring tool.
3. Turn the camshaft until there is access to the oil ducts in the fuel cam through
the inspection hole.
If fitted, remove the plugs from the oil ducts (using, for instance, a
screwdriver).
Insert three copper gaskets in each oil duct. Mount snap-on couplings in the oil
ducts, but do not tighten them.
Fit hoses between the snap-on couplings and the distributor block and between the
distributor block and the hydraulic highpressure pump.
Note:Before dismantling any part of the fuel pump, make sure that the pump has been
relieved of pressure and that all oil
4. Mount the special spanner on the fuel cam disc, ensuring that the two pins enter
the holes in the cam.
Apply a light pressure to the hydraulic system and, after venting the system,
tighten the snap-on couplings.
Raise the hydraulic pressure until oil seeps out along the camshaft under the cam
disc. Keep the cam pressurised for at least five minutes before turning the cam.
Keep the cam pressurised during turning.
Turn the cam disc, using the fitted spanner, until the desired change of lead is
obtained.
5. After completing the desired turning of the cam disc, relieve the hydraulic
system of pressure and dismount the spanner and the hydraulic equipment.
Wait at least 15 minutes – the cam must be allowed time to “settle” – before
mounting the plugs again in the oil ducts of the cam disc.
After carrying out adjustment, measure the fuel cam lead again.
Note down and file the new results for purposes of comparison with future
measurements and adjustment.
7. Mount a new O-ring on the puncture valve. Mount the puncture valve and the fuel
oil high pressure pipes.
Note:Before dismantling any part of the fuel pump, make sure that the pump has been
relieved of pressure and that all oil
1. Dismantle the fuel pump top cover/plunger barrel assembly. See Procedure 909-
5.2.
2. Remove the fuel oil inlet pipe between the fuel pump and the fuel oil inlet
valve.
Overhaul procedures
1. Tilt the fuel pump housing into a horizontal position on the wooden planks.
If the bottom plate sticks, loosen it by screwing two M8x50 mm screws into the
threaded holes of the bottom plate.
3. Dismantle the:
• Regulating guide.
4. Dismantle and inspect the erosion plugs on both sides of the fuel pump housing.
5. Clean all the parts in diesel oil or kerosene. Blow dry with compressed air.
6. Mount a new sealing ring in the pointer for the fuel oil index arm.
Depending on engine type, the index pointer can have a different shape, see the
sketch.
Warning!
Note:
– Regulating guide.
Adjust the position of the fuel oil index arm so that the scratch mark on the fuel
oil index arm is aligned with the centre of the fuel pump housing.
Mount the fuel oil index pointer.
housing, ensuring that the scratch mark on the regulating guide is aligned with the
scratch mark on the fuel oil index arm.
MOUNTING:
Note!
Before mounting the fuel pump housing, make sure that all sliding faces and threads
are cleaned and lubricated with molybdenum disulphide grease (MoS2).
1. Lower the fuel pump housing on to the pump base, taking care not to damage the
threads of the studs.
Mount and tighten the nuts at the base of the fuel pump housing. See Data.
2. Mount the fuel oil inlet pipe between the fuel pump and the fuel inlet valve.
Suction valve:
1. Set up the suction valve in a bench vice with “soft” jaws and press down the
spring by means of the cone to release the valve spindle from the two-part conical
ring.
Clean the parts thoroughly in clean diesel oil and blow dry with compressed air.
2. Inspect the seat on the valve spindle and the seat on the valve housing for
damage.
If the seats are damaged, a new or reconditioned suction valve must be fitted.
(Send the damaged valve to an authorized MAN B&W repair shop for reconditioning).
3. After cleaning and inspecting all the parts, lubricate these with molybdenum
disulphide (MoS2) and assemble the suction valve.
Check the seats for tightness by filling the inlet hole with diesel oil and waiting
5 minutes.
No oil may pass through the seats.
4. If the suction valve is not to be mounted on the engine immediately after the
overhaul, cover all openings of the valve with plastic to prevent dirt from
entering the valve during storage.
Puncture Valve
Before dismantling any part of the fuel pump, make sure that the pump has been
relieved of pressure and that all oil has been drained off.
Unscrew the puncture valve and remove it from the fuel pump top cover.
Loosen and remove the two screws and dismount the cover.
Pull the upper part of the housing clear of the lower part of the housing.
Remove the spindle and the spring from the upper part of the housing.
2. Mount the two O-rings in each ring groove on the rod of the air piston, and
position the long cone on the rod.
Heat the sealing ring in 100°C hot water for minimum 5 minutes.
Place the sealing ring on the cone and, by means of the pusher, push the sealing
ring on to the O-rings in the lowermost groove.
3. Repeat step 2 on the uppermost ring groove on the rod of the air piston with the
short cone.
4. Mount the O-ring in the ring groove on top of the piston. Position the cone on
the piston head.
Heat the sealing ring in 100°C hot water for minimum 5 minutes.
Place the sealing ring on the cone and, using the pusher, push the sealing ring
onto the O-ring in the groove.
5. Before assembling the puncture valve, lubricate all parts with molybdenum
disulphide, (MoS2).
Mount new O-rings on the upper and the lower part of the housing and the cover.
Mount the spring and air piston in the upper part of the housing and assemble the
two housing parts and the cover by means of the two screws.
6. If the puncture valve is not to be mounted on the engine immediately after the
overhaul, cover all openings of the valve with plastic to prevent dirt from
entering the valve during storage.
1. Before mounting the puncture valve, check that the bore in the top cover is
clean and check the O-ring on the puncture valve.
Lubricate the thread on the puncture valve with molybdenum disulphide grease
(MoS2).
2. Screw in the puncture valve and tighten with a crowfoot wrench and a torque
spanner to the specified torque, see Data D09- 35.
3. Mount the fuel oil high pressure pipes, see Procedure 909-14.4
DATA:
of the fuel oil system shock absorber should be checked at regular intervals.
2. Remove the plug from the end cover of the shock absorber. Check that air is
‘pulsating’ through the threaded hole.
Short bursts of air should be felt against the hand, corresponding to the strokes
of the fuel pump.
The air pulses occur when the shock absorber piston is working and the air below
the piston is being compressed and forced out through the threaded hole.
3. To check the ‘tightness’ of the piston, measure the amount of leakage oil
flowing from the drain pipe below the 3-way valve. Note down the amounts measured
and compare with earlier measurements.
Increasing amounts indicate a deteriorating piston sealing. Excessive amounts
indicate that the shock absorber requires overhauling. See Procedure 909-9.3.
Before dismantling any part of the fuel oil system, make sure that the system has
been relieved of pressure and that all oil has been drained off.
1. Remove the 3-way valve and the drain pipes. Loosen the screws holding the shock
absorber and remove it from the fuel oil system.
2. Remove the plug from the end cover of the shock absorber. Fit a threaded rod
between the piston and the end cover to counteract the force of the springs. Remove
the locking plates and loosen the screws of the end cover. Remove the end cover and
piston. Discard the gasket.
3. Loosen the nut on the threaded rod to relieve the springs and remove the
threaded rod. Remove and discard the sealing ring in the shock absorber housing and
the wear ring on the piston.
4. Clean all parts and polish the sliding surfaces of the piston and the shock
absorber housing. Mount a new sealing ring in the shock absorber housing and a new
wear ring on the piston.
5. Mount the springs and the spring guide between the end cover and the piston,
using the threaded rod.
Lubricate all sliding surfaces and assemble the shock absorber. Take care not to
damage the sealing ring or wear ring when mounting the piston. Check that the
piston slides easily in the shock absorber housing.
6. Mount the end cover. Remove the threaded rod and insert the plug.
Mount the 3-way valve and the drain pipes on the fuel oil system.
If an excessive amount of drain oil is still observed after the overhaul, the shock
absorber must be replaced and the damaged one sent to an authorized MAN B&W repair
shop for reconditioning.
For details of overhaul, see Procedures 909-11.3 Maintenance Manual (Volume 2):
1. Fuel Valve
The fuel valves must be given the utmost attention and care, as the greater part of
irregularities that may occur during the running of
If the engine gives normal performance in accordance with diagrams and exhaust
temperatures, it is only necessary to inspect the fuel
valves after the service period stated in the Checking and Maintenance Programme.
See Chapter 9001.
In order to obtain reliable results during testing of the fuel valves, all fuel
valves that are
dismantled from the engine must be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled
All fuel valves must be functiontested before being mounted in the cylinder cover.
Pressure testing pump Use only hydraulic oil (rustpreventing) with a viscosity of
between 7 and 10 cSt at 50°C.
For operation of the pressure testing pump, see the supplier’s instructions.
Note that the highpressure pump should be periodically checked in accordance with
the supplier’s instructions.
Note!
In the event that the slidetype fuel valve is pressure tested without being cleaned
between the fuel nozzle and the cutoff slide,
the opening pressure value measured might be considerably lower than specified
2. Setting up the fuel valve Place the fuel valve in the test rig and secure it
with the distance pieces and nuts.
Tighten the nuts to the specifi ed torque, see Data. Fit the oil pipe between the
pressure testing pump and the fuel valve. Fit the drain pipe.
• Opening pressure
Remove air in the system and check the fuel jet in the following way. Slowly
increase the oil pressure until straight
jets of oil are ejected from the nozzle holes (no atomization).
Acceptance criteria:
There is to be a continuous jet of oil through at least one of the nozzle holes.
Owing to the geometry of the internal part of the nozzle and because of the height
to which the spindle is lifted during pressure testing
is lower than the height it is lifted during normal engine operation the fuel oil
will not necessarily fl ow from all of the nozzle holes.
Cause of fault:
If the jets do not fulfi l the above point, the cause may be:Dirt in the nozzle
holes The nozzle is not mounted correctly.
Checking:
4. Opening pressure
To check the opening pressure, increase the oil pressure until oil is admitted
through the nozzle holes.
Acceptance criteria:
Check the opening pressure on the pressure gauge and compare with Data D0940 on the
datasheet.
Note!
Do NOT attempt to carry out an atomization test on the slide type fuel valvs, as
this may damage the cutoff slide and nozzle.
Cause of fault:
If the opening pressure is higher than specified in D0940, the cause may be that a
wrong type of spring is used replace the spring.
If the opening pressure is lower than specified in D0940, the cause may be that the
spring
If a spring or a disc has been changed, thepressure testing procedure of the fuel
valve must be repeated.
5. Sealing test and sliding function To check the needle valve seat for tightness
Slowly increase the oil pressure to about 50 bar below the opening pressure.
Maintain the builtup pressure by closing for the oil supply.
Acceptance criteria:
Cause of fault:
the clearances of the movable parts, both of the spindle guide and of the nonreturn
valve, are too large, or the seats between the thrust
Examine and/or replace both the spindle guide and nonreturn valve. See Procedure
90912.3.
If so, disassemble and examine the spindle guide, replace if necessary. See
Procedure 90912.3.
7. Atomization test
The atomization test may damage the valve because it makes the needle oscillate,
with a small lift at a very high frequency. The high
pressure drop across the cutoff edge and the high contact pressure between slide
and fuel nozzle, in combination with the poor lubricity of the test oil, increase
the risk of seizures between cutoff slide and nozzle.
All of these conditions involve the risk of seizure between the cutoff slide and
the nozzle.
Note : Extreme care and accuracy should be exercised when carrying out this
operation.
The spindle guide and the non-return valve have been integrated into one unit.
However, both terms will be used to describe the part in this procedure
1. Clean the outside of the spindle guide in pure gas oil or kerosene. The
individual parts of the
spindle guide are not interchangeable, therefore only one guide should be
disassembled at a time.
Note: All parts of the spindle guide/non-return valve, except the springs and the
fuel nozzle are matched parts and may not be replaced individually.
Place the spindle guide/non-return valve in a bench vice provided with “soft” jaws,
and use the spindle guide dismantling tool as shown to remove the non-return valve
from the spindle guide
2. Place the non-return valve part of the spindle guide in a bench vice provided
with
“soft” jaws, and use a brass mandrel and a hammer to remove the thrust piece from
the valve housing.
3. Mount the pulling tool around the fuel nozzle on the spindle guide. Turn the nut
to pull the fuel nozzle off the spindle guide.
4. Clean all the parts of the spindle guide and the non-return valve in gas oil,
and blow clean with compressed air.
Clean all parts again in kerosene or ‘Electrocleaner’, and blow dry with compressed
air.
5. Place all the parts on a clean, lint-free cloth and examine them through an 8-10
times enlargement magnifying glass and an inspection lamp.
During the examination, pay special attention to the seating surfaces and sliding
surfaces of the parts.
6. Remove any deposits or very fine scratches by placing the spindle and vent slide
in a lathe, as shown, and polishing it with a very fine conventional polishing
linen ‘grade 360’.
Use also a little oil for the polishing (a coarser polishing linen must absolutely
not be used).
Note:The sliding surface of the cut-off slide may only be polished VERY carefully.
The sliding surface must not be damaged
7. Clean any carbon deposits from the central bore of the fuel nozzle by means of
the special brass brush. Clean the spray holes, using
Clean the fuel nozzle with kerosene and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
If the test pin is able to enter just one of the holes, the fuel nozzle must be
discarded.
This also applies to nozzles with oval holes (can be ascertained with a magnifying
glass).
Check the fuel nozzle before mounting on the spindle guide, the cut-off slide must
be able to move freely inside the nozzle.
Note:During this operation be very careful not to push the drill too far to avoid
scratching the snug-fit surface on the inside of the fuel nozzle.
Note:It is recommended that the fuel nozzle is changed whenever the spindle guide
is being overhauled.
8. After polishing, clean the parts again and re-check the seat on thrust
piece/spindle, the seat on slide valve/spindle, and the seat on spindle/guide. Use
an inspection lamp and an 8-10 times enlargement magnifying glass.
If the seats are not in order, i.e. if there are pressing-in marks or similar on
the seats, the complete spindle guide must be discarded.
9. Lubricate the sliding surfaces of all parts with Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2).
10. Place the housing of the non-return valve in a bench vice provided with “soft”
jaws. Insert the non-return valve spindle and the
spring in the housing. Place the thrust piece at the end of the housing. Carefully
tap the thrust piece into the housing with a lead hammer.
11. Place the lower part of the spindle guide housing in a bench vice provided with
“soft” jaws.
Mount the spindle and the spring inside the housing of the spindle guide using the
spindle guide dismantling tool and a hammer.
13. Lubricate the sliding surfaces of the nozzle and the spindle with a little
Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2). See Procedure 913-11.
Mount the nozzle on the spindle guide. Use the dismantling tool for the spindle
guide to align the parts.
Place the parts on the plane of a drilling machine and mount the mounting tool in
the chuck. Make sure that all the parts are perfectly aligned.
Press the nozzle on to the spindle guide. If no mounting tools are available, the
nozzle can be mounted on the spindle guide using a short piece of pipe.
Place the pipe around the nozzle, so that the lower end of the pipe rests on the
‘foot’ of the fuel nozzle. Then press the parts together the same way as when using
the mounting tools.
14. If the spindle guide is not to be mounted in a fuel valve immediately after the
overhaul, cover all openings of the spindle guide with plastic
Note : Extreme care and accuracy should be exercised when carrying out this
operation.
The spindle guide and the non-return valve have been integrated into one unit.
However, both terms will be used to describe the part in this procedure
1. Clean the outside of the spindle guide in pure gas oil or kerosene. The
individual parts of the
spindle guide are not interchangeable, therefore only one guide should be
disassembled at a time.
Note: All parts of the spindle guide/non-return valve, except the springs and the
fuel nozzle are matched parts and may not be replaced individually.
Place the spindle guide/non-return valve in a bench vice provided with “soft” jaws,
and use the spindle guide dismantling tool as shown to remove the non-return valve
from the spindle guide
2. Place the non-return valve part of the spindle guide in a bench vice provided
with
“soft” jaws, and use a brass mandrel and a hammer to remove the thrust piece from
the valve housing.
3. Mount the pulling tool around the fuel nozzle on the spindle guide. Turn the nut
to pull the fuel nozzle off the spindle guide.
4. Clean all the parts of the spindle guide and the non-return valve in gas oil,
and blow clean with compressed air.
Clean all parts again in kerosene or ‘Electrocleaner’, and blow dry with compressed
air.
5. Place all the parts on a clean, lint-free cloth and examine them through an 8-10
times enlargement magnifying glass and an inspection lamp.
During the examination, pay special attention to the seating surfaces and sliding
surfaces of the parts.
6. Remove any deposits or very fine scratches by placing the spindle and vent slide
in a lathe, as shown, and polishing it with a very fine conventional polishing
linen ‘grade 360’.
Use also a little oil for the polishing (a coarser polishing linen must absolutely
not be used).
Note:The sliding surface of the cut-off slide may only be polished VERY carefully.
The sliding surface must not be damaged
7. Clean any carbon deposits from the central bore of the fuel nozzle by means of
the special brass brush. Clean the spray holes, using
Clean the fuel nozzle with kerosene and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
If the test pin is able to enter just one of the holes, the fuel nozzle must be
discarded.
This also applies to nozzles with oval holes (can be ascertained with a magnifying
glass).
Check the fuel nozzle before mounting on the spindle guide, the cut-off slide must
be able to move freely inside the nozzle.
Note:During this operation be very careful not to push the drill too far to avoid
scratching the snug-fit surface on the inside of the fuel nozzle.
Note:It is recommended that the fuel nozzle is changed whenever the spindle guide
is being overhauled.
8. After polishing, clean the parts again and re-check the seat on thrust
piece/spindle, the seat on slide valve/spindle, and the seat on spindle/guide. Use
an inspection lamp and an 8-10 times enlargement magnifying glass.
If the seats are not in order, i.e. if there are pressing-in marks or similar on
the seats, the complete spindle guide must be discarded.
9. Lubricate the sliding surfaces of all parts with Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2).
10. Place the housing of the non-return valve in a bench vice provided with “soft”
jaws. Insert the non-return valve spindle and the
spring in the housing. Place the thrust piece at the end of the housing. Carefully
tap the thrust piece into the housing with a lead hammer.
11. Place the lower part of the spindle guide housing in a bench vice provided with
“soft” jaws.
Mount the spindle and the spring inside the housing of the spindle guide using the
spindle guide dismantling tool and a hammer.
13. Lubricate the sliding surfaces of the nozzle and the spindle with a little
Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2). See Procedure 913-11.
Mount the nozzle on the spindle guide. Use the dismantling tool for the spindle
guide to align the parts.
Place the parts on the plane of a drilling machine and mount the mounting tool in
the chuck. Make sure that all the parts are perfectly aligned.
Press the nozzle on to the spindle guide. If no mounting tools are available, the
nozzle can be mounted on the spindle guide using a short piece of pipe.
Place the pipe around the nozzle, so that the lower end of the pipe rests on the
‘foot’ of the fuel nozzle. Then press the parts together the same way as when using
the mounting tools.
14. If the spindle guide is not to be mounted in a fuel valve immediately after the
overhaul, cover all openings of the spindle guide with plastic
The fuel pump roller guide can be partially checked while mounted on the engine,
using the following procedure:
1. Lift the fuel pump roller guide.
See Procedure 909-16.
2. Remove the cover on the camshaft housing to inspect the fuel pump roller guide.
Turn the engine to provide the maximum space between the roller guide and the
camdisc.
Turn the roller by hand to check that it can move freely and without unnecessary
resistance or “hard” points.
Also inspect the surface of the roller for possible damage marks, seizures or
scratches. Make sure that there are no traces of bearing metal left in the roller
guide housing.
Check the clearance in the slide bearing by lifting the roller relative to the
roller guide and measuring the difference in distance between the cam disc and the
roller in the upper and lower positions of the roller.
3. Lower the roller guide onto the fuel cam again.
See Procedure 909-16.
4. Using the telegraph, move the roller guide to the AHEAD position.
Check that the reversing link is fully tilted over in AHEAD position.
Carry out the same check in the ASTERN position.
Roller guide removed from engine
A more suitable and reliable method is to check the roller guide and the bearing
clearance after the roller guide has been dismounted:
5. Dismount the roller guide from the engine. See Procedure 909-15.2.
6. Check the surface of the roller and the sliding surfaces of the roller guide,
and measure any ovalness.
7. Turn the roller guide upside down and land it in a vertical position on a couple
of planks, with the roller hanging freely.
Measure the clearance in the slide bearing by placing a dial gauge against the
roller and lifting the roller as much as the clearance permits.
FUEL PUMP ROLLER GUIDE OVERHAUL:
Overhaul proceudres:
1. Inspect and check the fuel pump roller guide.
See Procedure 909-15.1.
2. It is recommended that the roller guide should ONLY be dismantled if
• irregularities when turning the roller,
• damage to the roller,
• larger clearance than stated on the Data sheet,
• seizure marks on the slide surfaces, have been observed when checking the roller
guide.
3. If no irregularities are found, just clean and lubricate the roller guide before
remounting it in the roller guide bushing.
Note!
For disassembling of the roller guide, contact an MAN B&W authorized repair shop.
1. Lubricate the roller guide with plenty of camshaft lubricating oil, and mount it
in the roller guide bushing, using the lifting tool.
During mounting, take care not to scratch the sliding surfaces of the roller guide.
Make sure that the pin of the reversing link fits in the bracket of the reversing
shaft.
2. After mounting the roller guide with the reversing link, check the clearance
between the roller guide and the guide plate mounted in the roller guide bushing.
Turn the camshaft so that the roller guide is lifted approx. 20 mm.
The clearance C between the roller guide and the guide plate must be the same at
both ends +/– 0.1 mm.
The clearances A and B between the guideway and the pin of the reversing link (arm)
must be checked in the AHEAD and ASTERN positions.
Connect working air to the air cylinder, and check that the reversing mechanism is
working smoothly.
The clearances A and B must be approx.
the same in both positions. See Data
3. If adjustment is necessary, place the reversing arm in ASTERN position and
remove
the four cap screws which tighten the flange for the air cylinder to the roller
guide bushing.
Pull out the air cylinder with the flange as much as possible.
4. Release the lock nut on the shaft.
5. Turn the shaft to obtain the distance between the air cylinder flange and the
surface of the roller guide bushing. See Data.
Tighten the nut on the shaft.
6. Mount the flange with the air cylinder on the roller guide bushing and tighten
the four cap screws.
Lock the screws with Loctite (EN243S) type: 242.
Repeat the clearance check once more.
7. Before mounting the pump base on the roller bushing, replace the O-ring between
the sealing bush and the bottom of the pump base.
8. Mount the pump base on the roller guide bushing, and tighten the nuts.
RELIEF VALVE:
The functioning of the relief valves on the crankcase wall is tested by means of
the tool supplied.
Note 1: Access to the scavenge air receiver must not take place until the air in
the receiver is clean.
Note 2: Checking the non-return valves are carried out after cleaning of the
scavenge air receiver.
- Check the condition of the Non-Return Valves, This can be checked by moving the
valve flaps manually.
If necessary, replace the non-return valve(s) assembly and overhaul (see Maker
Maintenance Manual, Procedure 910-6).
- Inspect the water mist catcher for cracks in the frame and correct mounting
through
the flaps.
Suspension bolts can be checked by removing the access covers in front of the water
mist
1. Normally it is not necessary to remove the water mist catcher element from the
scavenge air cooler housing. If, however, the water mist catcher element has been
fouled or damaged, it must be dismantled for cleaning or repair.
2. To dismantle the water mist catcher, dismantle the water mist catcher cover to
give access to the air cooler housing.
3. Loosen the screws which fasten the water mist element to the cooler frame,
through the small end cover.
4. Pull the water mist catcher half way out and screw a lifting eye bolt into the
top of the water mist catcher.
5. Pull the water mist catcher fully out of the scavenge air cooler housing and
land it on a couple of wooden planks.
1. Lubricate the two supports on the underside of the water mist catcher with
plenty of grease.
Apply a thin layer of silicone paste to the frame of the water mist catcher on the
side which will face toward the sealing frame of
2. Slide the water mist catcher into the scavenge air cooler housing.
When the water mist catcher is half-way in, remove the tackle and the eye bolt, and
push the water mist catcher fully into the
3. Tighten the two screws at the front end of the water mist catcher. Mount the
cover
Note:Make sure to mount the water mist catcher correctly. See the sketch
4. Tighten the two screws at the aft end of the water mist catcher. Clean the water
mist catcher cover and apply a thin layer of silicone paste along the edges of the
cover. Mount the cover
The functioning of the safety valve to be checked manually by means of the bolts
(the bolts are screwed in the valve flap). Check the condition of the spring and
the seal.
Checking
1. The scavenge air receiver safety valve is calibrated at the factory and does not
require
any adjustment.
2. Check the scavenge air receiver safety valve by loosening the counter nut and
turn
Use a piece of cloth to wipe out any dirt from the O-ring packing and close the
valve
If this operation cannot be performed smoothly, the safety valve must be dismantled
and cleaned.
4. If the O-ring seal has been removed mount a new one using Locktite type AVX and
Loctite activator type T or similar.
5. Push in the valve flap and spindle while taking care not to damage the O-ring
seal.
Check Function test of Alarm system slow down /shut down system
Data :
D12-01 Tightening pressure for holding down bolts and end chock bolts 900 bar
D12-02 Check holding down bolts and end chock bolts for correct tightening
Note!
The hydraulic jack used for tightening the holding down bolts is marked with:
For: Holding down bolts The larger jack used for tightening the end chock bolts is
marked with:
Hydraulic tightening of holding down bolts and end chock bolts is carried out as
detailed in
Section 913-1. The normal tightening pressure is indicated on the Data sheet and is
also
1. The holding down bolts and end chock bolts must be checked for correct tightness
at the
For this purpose, raise the pressure on the hydraulic tool slowly while constantly
attempting
to loosen the nut with the tommy bar. The oil pressure indicated on the pressure
gauge when the nut comes loose
(‘loosening pressure') is to be noted down in the checking tables, see pages 4 and
5,
following which the bolts are tightened to the normal tightening pressure.
The condition of the bolted joints, and thus the general condition of the
foundation, can
If the ‘loosening pressure' is below 80 per cent of the tightening pressure, the
relative
chocks shall always be checked for possible defects. If the chocks are in position
and
in order, the bolts should be taken out for inspection of threads and contact
faces.
2. If a number of measuring pins have been welded to the tanktop, the heights of
the
epoxy supporting chocks are to be checked immediately after finishing the checking
of
the loosening pressures of the holding down bolts and the retightening of these.
The distance between the measuring pins and the bedplate is to be measured with a
blade gauge and noted down. Any possible settling of the chocks during the
intervals
The liners located in way of each main bearing on either side of the engine must
The first time the ship is sailing in a fullyloaded condition after the engine has
been
operating for 1,000 hours, all side chocks should be checked to see whether the
liners
The fit of the side chock liners should be checked with a feeler gauge each time
the
loosening pressure of the holding down bolts is checked, and thus at the same time
intervals.
The feeler gauge is applied at the 7 points indicated in the table on page 5, and
the
measurements found are to be entered in the relevant table. These results are used
If the measurements at 3 points or more have increased 5/100 mm or more from the
initial results,
the table.
If this procedure does not improve the situation, the liner must be removed, and it
must be
checked that the actual contact area is more than 80 per cent of the possible
contact surface
The liners are secured in their correct position by means of hexagon socket set
screws with
cup point.
STAY BOTLS RETIGHTENING CHECK:
Note:
1.New/overhauled stay bolts to be checked after first 500 - 1500 hrs in service.
2.The work " Retightening of the stay bolts is related to Class Survey.
Data :
Checking:
2. Clean the contact faces and fi t the hydraulic tools on a pair of stay bolts
positioned
Connect the high-pressure pump by means of the high-pressure hoses, so that the two
3. If the engine is equipped with split staybolts and one or more staybolts have
been
dismantled, make sure that the staybolts are mounted in such a way that, when the
the contact face of the lowermost nut and the bedplate. If the engine is equipped
with
4. Start the retightening of the stay bolts and proceed to tighten the stay bolts
in pairs,
working from the middle toward one end of the engine and then from the middle again
5. Maintain the hydraulic pressure at the value indicated in D13-01, and retighten
the stay
bolt nuts with a tommy bar. Before relieving the system of pressure, check with a
feeler
6. Reconnect the hydraulic tools to the pair of 6. stay bolts fi rst tightened.
Tighten to 10%
below D13-01 and check if the nut is loose. If the nut is not loose: Tighten the
stay bolts to D13-01.
If the nut is loose: Tighten all stay bolts once again to D13-01.
TOP BRACING:
After some time in service the top bracing might become ineffective due to wear of
the friction material or by some reasons.
The crankcase oil outlets guide the lubricating oil from the crankcase to the
lubricating oil
bottom tank. The sealings of the crankcase oil outlets must be checked at regular
intervals,
for example during dockings. The crankcase oil outlets may be equipped with either
rubber
Screws A
Grating B
Screws C
Cover plate D
Screws E
Steel ring F.
2. Lift away the rubber sealing diaphragms G and examine each diaphragm closely. In
3. Mount:
Steel ring F
Screws E
Cover plate D
Screws C
Grating B
Screws A.
Note!
If the water content of the main engine lube oil is rising, this may indicate that
Note:
If unavailable, new diaphragms may be made from three layers of 2 mm thick oil and
temperature resistant rubber.
opposite positions.
6. Remove:
Screws C
Cover plate D
Screws E.
be replaced.
10. Mount:
Screws E
Cover plate D
Screws C.
Note:It is recommended to always replace the metal bellow sealing during Inspection
T/C TURBINE:
The dry cleaning method employs compressed air to blow dry, solid, granules through
the turbocharger, thus removing most of the deposits which may have
It is not always possible to remove thick deposits with this dry cleaning method.
Therefore, in order to prevent the build-up of thick deposits, the turbine must be
cleaned after every 24 to 50 hours of operation.
Generally, turbocharger cleaning can be carried out without, or with very little,
reduction
Note!
We do not recommend the use of rice or grain as cleaning materials, as these may
possibly stick in the exhaust gas boiler.
Note!
Cleaning Procedure:
2. Preferably clean the turbocharger at full load. Do not clean below half load.
3. Close valve A.
4. Open valves B and C, to blow out any deposits and/or condensate in the
connecting pipe.
6. Fill the tank with the quantity of granules specified in the table.
7. Close valve A.
Caution!
1. The drain openings in the gas casings must remain closed while dry cleaning the
turbine.
2. It is possible that during dry cleaning of the turbine, some of the blown-in
solid particles or sparks will escape through the funnel.
T/C OVERHAULING:
The stud screws on the silencer casing are secured with Loctite 586.
circumferential direction.
3. Move silencer in axial direction away from the compressor casing and
Work Steps
2. Hang air intake casing via shackle (596.046) to lifting device; tension the
rope.
4. Move air intake casing away from compressor casing in axial direction
Gaps and Clearances :Gaps and clearances are to be measured and compared with the
specified tolerances; the results are to be recorded and appropriate action is to
be taken.
T/C CLEANING:
Dry Cleaning For dry cleaning of the turbine during operation, commercial granules
are
Granulate of:
. Nutshells,
Particle size:
load.
The water container of the pressure sprayer (2) is filled with freshwater. An
actuating the pushbutton on the hand valve (4), water is sprayed into the
compressor casing (5) ahead of the compressor wheel. The water droplets
bounce against the compressor wheel where they wear off contamination.
The wet cleaning is performed during operation with heavily reduced engine
The washing water flows into the gas-admission casing (4) via three-way
cock (E).
The washing nozzles spray out the washing water into the gas-admission
casing ahead of the turbine. The washing water droplets bounce against the
nozzle ring (5) and the turbine (6), where they wear off contamination/deposits
as follows:
. Mechanical cleaning from the impact of the water droplets
. The water vapor lightly reduces the temperature at the turbine blades.
Due to the contraction of the turbine blade material caused by the lower
The majority of the washing water is forced out into the open as steam via
the flue, owing to the high flow rate in the gas outlet casing.
A minor quantity of the washing water runs off through the washing water
drain (7) and the drain valve (B). The washing water is conducted via a funnel
The sealing air (9) prevents clogging of the pipes during operation of the
turbocharger. For this, a minor quantity of the air after the charge air cooler
The wet cleaning of the turbine may only be carried out at heavily
When the exhaust-gas temperature is too high, the washing water can
The dry cleaning method employs compressed air to blow dry, solid, granules through
the turbocharger, thus removing most of the deposits which may have
It is not always possible to remove thick deposits with this dry cleaning method.
Therefore, in order to prevent the build-up of thick deposits, the turbine must be
cleaned after every 24 to 50 hours of operation.
Generally, turbocharger cleaning can be carried out without, or with very little,
reduction
Note!
We do not recommend the use of rice or grain as cleaning materials, as these may
possibly stick in the exhaust gas boiler.
Note!
Cleaning Procedure:
2. Preferably clean the turbocharger at full load. Do not clean below half load.
3. Close valve A.
4. Open valves B and C, to blow out any deposits and/or condensate in the
connecting pipe.
6. Fill the tank with the quantity of granules specified in the table.
7. Close valve A.
Caution!
1. The drain openings in the gas casings must remain closed while dry cleaning the
turbine.
2. It is possible that during dry cleaning of the turbine, some of the blown-in
solid particles or sparks will escape through the funnel.