© Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
On the Road 4 Central Mongolia 101
TÖV 105
Zuunmod 105
Mongolia Highlights 5 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly
Protected Area 106
Songino Khairkhan Uul 109
Destination Eej Khad (Mother Rock) 109
Mongolia 12 Nalaikh 109
Terelj Area 110
Gachuurt 114
Getting Started 13 Chingeltei Uul
Bayanzürkh Uul
115
115
Khandgait 115
Itineraries 17 Khustain National Park
ÖVÖRKHANGAI
115
117
Arvaikheer 117
History 21 Naiman Nuur
Khujirt
119
119
Shankh Khiid 119

The Culture 31 Kharkhorin (Karakorum)

West of Kharkhorin
120
124
East of Kharkhorin 125

Food & Drink 42 ARKHANGAI

Tsetserleg
126
126
Tsenkher Hot Springs 129
Ögii Nuur 129
Environment 48 Khar Balgas 129
Kul-Teginii Monument 129
Taikhar Chuluu 129
Mongolia Outdoors 55 Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan
Nuur National Park 130
Around Terkhiin
Ulaanbaatar 62 Tsagaan Nuur 131

History 63
Orientation
Information
63
65
Northern Mongolia 132
Dangers & Annoyances 68 SELENGE 133
Sights 68 Sükhbaatar 136
Activities 78 Altanbulag 137
Walking Tour 78 Dulaankhaan 137
Courses 79 Darkhan 138
Tours 80 Amarbayasgalant Khiid 140
Festivals & Events 82 BULGAN 141
Sleeping 82 Erdenet 142
Eating 86 Bulgan City 145
Drinking 90 Around Bulgan 148
Entertainment 91 Dashinchilen 148
Shopping 93 KHÖVSGÖL 148
Getting There & Away 95 Mörön 149
Getting Around 99 Uushigiin Uver 152
10 CONTENTS

Khövsgöl Nuur Zamyn-Üüd 202 Khyargas Nuur

National Park 152 North of Sainshand 203 National Park 242
Chandman-Öndör 159 Choir 203 ZAVKHAN 242
Around Chandman-Öndör 160 ÖMNÖGOV 204 Uliastai 243
Darkhad Depression 160 Dalanzadgad 204 Zagastain Davaa 245
Mörön to Terkhiin Khanbogd 206 Otgon Tenger Uul
Tsagaan Nuur 162 Strictly Protected Area 245
Bulgan 207 Tosontsengel 246
Bayanzag 208 Telmen Area 246
Eastern Mongolia 164 Gurvan Saikhan
National Park 208
Western Zavkhan 246
KHENTII 165 Ereen Nuur 246
BAYANKHONGOR 210
Öndörkhaan 168 Bayankhongor City 211
Delgerkhaan
Khökh Nuur
170
171
Galuut Canyon 212 Directory 247
Shargaljuut 212 Accommodation 247
Baldan Baraivan Khiid 171 Bayangovi 213
Öglögchiin Kherem 171 Activities 250
Around Bayangovi 213 Business Hours 252
Binder & Batshireet 171 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 214 Children 252
Burkhan Khalduun 172 Amarbuyant Khiid 214 Climate Charts 252
Dadal 173 Ekhiin Gol 214 Customs 253
DORNOD 174 GOV-ALTAI 215 Dangers & Annoyances 254
Choibalsan 175 Altai 216 Discount Cards 255
Kherlen Bar Khot 177 Biger 217 Embassies & Consulates 255
Wall of Chinggis Khaan 177 Eej Khairkhan Uul 218 Festivals & Events 255
Ugtam Uul 178 Sutai Uul 218 Food 255
Khökh Nuur 178 Great Gobi Strictly Gay & Lesbian Travellers 256
Chuluunkhoroot 178 Protected Area 218 Holidays 256
Buir Nuur 179 Insurance 256
Sangiin Dalai Nuur
Khalkhiin Gol
179
179
Western Mongolia 219 Internet Access
Legal Matters
256
256
SÜKHBAATAR 180 BAYAN-ÖLGII 222
Maps 257
Baruun-Urt 180 Ölgii 223
Money 257
Sükhbaatar Town 182 Tsambagarav Uul Photography & Video 258
National Park 228
Dariganga 182 Post 259
Tolbo Nuur 228
Shiliin Bogd Uul 183 Shopping 259
Tolbo to Bulgan 228
Around Shiliin Bogd Uul 184 Solo Travellers 259
Sogoog Согоог 229
Lkhachinvandad Uul Telephone 260
Nature Reserve 184 Altai Tavan Bogd
National Park 229 Time 261
KHOVD 231 Toilets 261
Tourist Information 261
Mission: Mongolia 185 Khovd City 232
Travellers With Disabilities 261
Khar Us Nuur
National Park 235 Visas 262
The Gobi 193 Tsenkheriin Agui
Mönkh Khairkhan
236 Women Travellers
Work
264
264
DUNDGOV 195 National Park 236
Mandalgov 195
Baga Gazryn Chuluu 197
UVS
Ulaangom
237
237 Transport 266
Süm Khökh Burd 197 Uvs Nuur 239 GETTING THERE & AWAY 266
Erdenedalai 197 Bayan Nuur 240 Entering the Country 266
Ongiin Khiid 197 Ulaangom to Ölgii 240 Air 266
Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 198 Kharkhiraa Uul & Land 269
Ulaan Suvraga 198 Türgen Uul 241 GETTING AROUND 276
DORNOGOV 198 Khökh Nuur 241 Air 277
Sainshand 199 Khar Us Nuur 241 Bicycle 278
South of Sainshand 202 Achit Nuur 242 Boat 278
 © Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 11

Bus 278 Environmental Hazards 291

Camel & Yak 278 Traditional Medicine 292
Car & Motorcycle 278
Hitching
Horse
278
279
Language 293
Local Transport 279 Accommodation 293
Minivan & Jeep 280 Conversation & Essentials 294
Taxi 285 Directions 295
Train 285 Language Difficulties 296
Numbers 296
Shopping & Services 296
Health 287 Transport 297
BEFORE YOU GO 287
Insurance
Recommended
287
Glossary 298
Vaccinations 287
Internet Resources
Further Reading
288
288
Behind the Scenes 300
IN TRANSIT 288
Deep Vein
Thrombosis (DVT) 288 Index 303
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 288
IN MONGOLIA
Availability & Cost of
289
World Time Zones 310
Health Care 289
Infectious Diseases
Traveller’s Diarrhoea
289
291 Legend 312

Regional Map Contents

WESTERN NORTHERN MONGOLIA

MONGOLIA pp134-5
pp220-1
EASTERN
MONGOLIA
ULAANBAATAR pp166-7
CENTRAL p64
MONGOLIA
pp102-3
THE GOBI
(WESTERN)
p210 THE GOBI
(EASTERN & CENTRAL)
p194
 © Lonely Planet Publications
12

Destination Mongolia
Mix up vast landscapes of empty deserts, snowcapped mountains,
dramatic gorges and sparkling lakes. Sprinkle in the felt homes of the
nomad and the cry of an eagle. Add Buddhist temples, mysterious ruins,
abundant wildlife and legendary hospitality. Then top it all off with a
conqueror who started with nothing and ended up changing history.
If this description perpetuates your belief in an untouched country,
then you also need the scoop on the new Mongolia. Add to the above
internet cafés, herders chatting on mobile phones, Manhattan-style cock-
tail bars, eco-yurts and vegetarian cafés. The Humvees plying Peace Ave
FAST FACTS would probably have Chinggis Khaan turning green with envy.
Population: 2,576,000 Since the fall of communism, Mongolia has done just about everything
(2007) in its power to open itself up to the world. While the old traditions survive
GDP: US$2100 per capita, and the wild nature is still mostly intact, Mongolia has also reached out to
ranking Mongolia 125 out the West for economic and cultural ties. It’s not uncommon to meet Mon-
of 182 listed countries golians with degrees from universities in the USA, Europe or Australia.
Along with Japan and South Korea, Mongolia is one of the only legiti-
Leading 2007 exports:
mate democracies in the whole of Asia. Elections have proven to be free
copper, wool, gold,
and fair. A constant parade of street protests have forced policy change
cashmere, leather
on everything from mining laws to bus fares.
Literacy rate: 98% Democracy has given foreign investors enough confidence to stick
Voter turnout: often with Mongolia during hard times. Attractive investment laws have lured
over 80% some of the big boys of the mining world – the major target of Mongo-
lia’s economic reformers. Despite their progression, Mongolia still faces
Horse-to-human ratio:
enormous economic and social challenges; it remains one of the poorest
13 to 1
countries in Asia, with typical salaries at less than US$100 a month.
Average life expectancy: Tourism, along with mining and cashmere, has become a key feature of
64 years the economy. The poor infrastructure and short travel season have kept
Annual economic aid receipts small, but a growing network of ger camps cater to travellers seek-
received: approximately ing ecotourism adventures. Without fences or private property to restrict a
US$203 million traveller’s movement, Mongolia is a perfect destination for horse trekking,
Telephone usage: 156,000
long-distance cycling or hiking, or more leisurely activities such as fly-
landlines; over 800,000
fishing, yak carting or camping out under a sprawling mass of stars.
mobile phones
Most travellers come for Naadam, the two-day summer sports festival
that brings Ulaanbaatar to a standstill. But Mongolia’s unique charm
Proportion of people will always lie in the countryside where, rather than being a spectator to
living below the poverty the wrestling, you may find yourself making up the numbers! Outside
line: 36% the villages it’s easy to meet nomad families whose relentless sense of
Head of livestock: hospitality can at times be nothing short of overwhelming.
34 million Mongolia is an up-and-coming Asian country with a young, well-
educated population. The economy grows at a robust 7.5% per year –
thanks mainly to China’s insatiable appetite for Mongolia’s raw mate-
rials. But Mongolia sits at a crucial crossroads: if the booming econ-
omy continues down the road of corruption, with a few getting rich
and everyone else left behind, the country may never develop to its
full potential.
As a travel destination, Mongolia is a special place for people who
enjoy the outdoors and adventure. Heading out on the vast plains, rid-
ing horses and camping with nomad families, it offers the chance to step
back in time to a simpler age and way of life. It is an invigorating and
exhilarating place to visit, and remains one of the last unspoiled travel
destinations in Asia.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
13

Getting Started
Mongolia offers plenty of scope for offbeat, adventurous and simply fasci-
nating travels. While there are plenty of tourist attractions that are worth
visiting, Mongolia is not the sort of place where travellers need a rigid
sightseeing schedule.
An eight-day horseback trip through the mountains outside of Ulaanbaatar,
done independently or with a group, can be just as rewarding as a driving
tour to the country’s best-known attractions, if not more so. What makes the
journey unique is Mongolia’s unbounded hospitality and nomadic culture;
a visit to a herder’s ger is often the best part of any trip to Mongolia and
something that can be done without mounting a major expedition.
Organising a trip is surprisingly easy, and you’ll make some headway by con-
necting with tour operators and hotel owners ahead of time. Russian Cyrillic is
widely used and not too difficult to pick up, making street signs relatively easy
to read. In Ulaanbaatar, an English speaker is never too far away. Trips can be
made to suit all budgets, though backpackers should expect to pay slightly more
than they would in south Asia; jeep-hire costs can add up. Vehicle breakdowns,
petrol shortages, extreme weather and shocking roads present their own chal-
lenges. But the country is also stunning, safe and relatively healthy; with a bit
of resolve and patience, any amount of travel is possible.

WHEN TO GO
Mongolia has an extreme continental clime; it is so far inland that no sea
moderates its climate. Only in summer does cloud-cover shield the sky.
Humidity is usually zilch and sunshine is intense. With more than 260 sunny See Climate Charts (p252)
days a year, Mongolia is justifiably known as the ‘Land of Blue Sky’. for more information.
The travel season begins in mid-May. Ger camps start opening their doors
and more travellers are around to share vehicles. The weather is generally fair
although early May can still see snowfall, especially in the north.
June weather is fine and generally dry throughout the central and southern
regions. The mountains and northern areas can still be cold.
July is the time to see the Naadam Festival (p96). Unfortunately, this is also
the peak tourist season when Ulaanbaatar’s inadequate accommodation and
creaky transport is stretched to breaking point. It’s a good time to look for travel
partners and get out of the city. Gobi temperatures this month can hit 40°C.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

„ A good pair of binoculars and a high powered lens for your SLR camera. Distances are vast in
Mongolia and both of these will help when spotting wildlife.
„ Camping gear. Tents, sleeping bags and other equipment are available in Mongolia, but you’ll
save money by bringing your own.
„ Chapstick, sun block, sunglasses and anything else that protects you from Mongolia’s relent-
less sun, dust and wind.
„ English-language travel literature and books.
„ New US dollars; it’s difficult to change bills that pre-date 2000.
„ A1 steak sauce, spice packets or jar of mustard to flavour up your boiled mutton.
„ Studying your phrasebook. You’ll find that LP’s Mongolian Phrasebook is worth its weight in
gold.
 14 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 15

Ulaan
b
MONGOLIA IN WINTER M O Naatar
Visiting Mongolia in winter is not as crazy as it sounds. While you may imagine everything is GOL
buried under snow, the country does still function; museums will be open, transportation runs IA
unabated and other facilities like shops and restaurants will still be up and running.
One advantage is a big reduction in Ulaanbaatar hotel prices – over 30% for most top-end
ROAD-TRIP DELIGHTS
There are certain essential factors that make every road trip complete:
hotels. Another benefit of winter travel is that vehicles in northern areas can reach places that
are otherwise difficult to access. For example, thanks to the frozen ground, lakes and rivers, cars 1 Hot-water bathhouses 6 Yogurt delivered by passing nomads
can drive from Khatgal over Jigleg Pass and onto to Renchinlkhumbe; in summer this area is just
2 Paved roads 7 Getting a lift
boggy marsh, only accessible by horse.
In winter, ger camps will be closed (except for a few in Terelj). Other disadvantages include thick 3 Drivers named Bold or Dorj 8 Ability to sing at least one song in English
air pollution in Ulaanbaatar and shorter daylight hours (it will be dark by 4pm or 5pm). 4 Spare parts found by the roadside and Mongolian
In the countryside, activities such as hiking and horse riding won’t really be feasible because 9 Stomach for blowtorched marmot
5 Yak cream with fresh blueberries on Russian
of the cold. However, you could try ice fishing, cross-country skiing or even offbeat adventures
bread 10 Mars Bars
like dog sledding.
Wind of Mongolia (p82) runs dog-sledding trips in Terelj from December to February and then
on Khövsgöl Nuur in March and April.
In Ulaanbaatar, LG Guesthouse (p83) runs winter star-gazing tours. Winter is also the time to
watch the Kazakh eagle-hunters in action; contact Blue Wolf Travel (p224). Hard-core ice-skaters can
SURVIVAL PHRASES
While bouncing around in your jeep or entering a nomad’s ger, bear in mind these key phrases:
join a long-distance ice-skating trip on Khövsgöl Nuur, organised by Nomadic Journeys (p81).
1 Hold the dog! Nokhoi khorio! 6 Not too much, please (food, tea, vodka).
Dunduur. Or, jaakhan, jaakhan.
August can see lots of rain in the northern and central areas. This weather 2 When will you move your ger next? Tanakh
fills up rivers and brings fresh grass to the steppes, but it can also bog the khetzee nukh ve? 7 Where is a good spot for fishing? Yamar
roads with mud and attract mosquitoes. Still, it’s a great time to travel 3 Exactly what time are we going to leave? gazar zagas ikhtei ve?
in Mongolia. (ask while jabbing at your watch, and 8 I would like to ride a calm (nonagressive)
September is another fine month. Cooler weather brings relief to the emphasise the word ‘Yag’, or the answer horse. Bi nomkhon mori unmaar baina.
Gobi and the changing colours in the northern forests make for spectacular will invariably be ‘now’) Yag, kheden tsagt 9 In which direction is ___ town? ___ sum ail
scenery. Flies and mosquitoes start to disappear. yavakh ve? zugt baina ve?
October is cool and sees the occasional snow flurry up north but is still fine
4 May we camp near your ger? Tanaa khajuud 10 Please write down your address and I will
for travel, especially in the Gobi. Weather patterns at this time are particularly
HOW MUCH? maihantaigaa honogloj boloh uu? send your photo later. Ta nadad hayagaa
vulnerable to change. One minute you’re walking around in a T-shirt, the
Local newspaper T500 next you need an overcoat and boots, then it’s back to T-shirts. 5 Are your sheep fattening up nicely? Mal bichij ogno uu. Bi tand zurag ilgeene.
The cold season runs from November to February. Read the boxed text sureg targan tavtai uu?
Can of Chinggis beer
(above) for details.
T1000
Mongolians, especially nomads, consider March and April the worst
Guanz (canteen) lunch months. After the long winter, livestock will already be thin and a lack of
T2000 rain means many will die, causing financial and psychological hardship. BEST FESTS
Internet per hour T700 If the spring is a harsh one, staying with a nomad family at this time is Festivals offer a great chance to meet locals and enjoy local customs. Try to make it to one of
not recommended. the following:
Taxi from the airport to
Ulaanbaatar is possibly the coldest capital city in the world. Temperatures
Sükhbaatar Sq T6000 1 Tsagaan Sar in Bulgan sum (village), Ömnögov 6 Naadam in any sum, better than a big city
generally start to drop below 0°C in late October, sink to -30°C in January
Souvenir T-shirt T12,000 and February and remain below freezing until April. July through September (January or February) (mid-July)
Best seat at the Naadam is pleasant, but it can still turn suddenly cold and, unfortunately, most of the 2 Khatgal Ice Festival (28 February) 7 Yak Festival in Tariat (early August)
opening US$25 city’s rain falls in this period. Summer daylight lasts until 10pm. 3 Camel Polo Festival in Ulaanbaatar (mid- 8 Gongoriin Bombani Hural at Amarbayas-
March) galant Khiid (9 to 11 August)
COSTS & MONEY 4 Navrus in Bayan Ölgii (21 March) 9 Airag Festival in Dundgov (late August)
Within Mongolia, travellers on organised tours spend around US$100 per
day (more for extra luxuries). Independent travellers can see the same sights 5 Roaring Hooves Music Festival (late June) 10 Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai (first Sunday
and stay in midrange accommodation for around US$80 per day. Sharing the in October)
cost of a private jeep or minivan and camping rather than staying in more-
expensive ger camps can bring this down to about US$25 to US$40 per day.
(For more information on tourist ger camps see p249.) If you are hitching Accommodation and food will cost at least US$10 per day in Ulaanbaatar,
and using public transport around the countryside, allow about US$10 to but allow up to US$20 per day for half-decent accommodation, some tastier,
US$15 per day for this. Western-style meals and trips to the theatre and museums.
© Lonely Planet Publications
16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re lonelyplanet.com

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Dateline Mongolia: An American Journalist in Nomads Land, by Michael
Kohn, is a memoir and travelogue written by the author of this guidebook.
It recounts his memorable three years working as a reporter for the Mongol
Messenger.
Lost Country: Mongolia Revealed, by Jasper Becker, describes the author’s
travels in Mongolia in the early 1990s and his attempts to uncover the secrets
of the purge years that plagued Mongolia in the 1930s.
Wild East, by Jill Lawless, is a tightly written, very funny account of the
author’s experience in Mongolia, during which she spent two years editing
the UB Post. This lightning-fast book serves as a good armchair read before
visiting Mongolia.
Hearing Birds Fly, by Louisa Waugh, describes the year the author spent
living in Tsengel, a Kazakh village in western Mongolia. Waugh does an
outstanding job of describing the stark landscapes, personal stories and
ironies in one of Mongolia’s most remote areas.
Eagle Dreams: Searching for Legends in Wild Mongolia, by Stephen J Bodio,
describes the remote and enchanting Bayan-Ölgii aimag. It gives a good ac-
count of Kazakh contemporary life and the ‘eagle-hunters’.
Among the Mongols, by James Gilmour, was written by a Scottish mission-
ary who travelled to Mongolia in the late 19th century. Some of his observa-
tions of life at the time are remarkably compatible with modern Mongolia.
For more book ideas see www.mongoliacenter.org/bookstore.

INTERNET RESOURCES
Living in Mongolia (www.living-in-mongolia.com) News and information site geared towards
expats living in Mongolia.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Includes info on Mongolia with links to other websites,
and the Thorn Tree travellers’ forum.
Mongol Uls (www.mongoluls.net) Cultural articles, links and handy language tutorial.
Mongolia Expat (www.mongoliaexpat.com) Up-to-date website with sights and activities in
contemporary Mongolia.
Mongolia National Tourism Centre (www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn) Includes lists of hotels,
ger camps and travel agencies.
The Mongolia Society (www.mongoliasociety.org) An excellent resource with lots of links.
Mongolia Today (www.mongoliatoday.com) A colourful online magazine covering all aspects of
Mongolian culture.
Mongolian Matters (www.mongolianmatters.com) Blog by a UB expat, commenting on
important news stories in Mongolia.
Shaggy Yak (www.shaggyyak.com) A great starting point, with handy tips on visas, planning and
logistics for a trip to Mongolia.
UN in Mongolia (www.un-mongolia.mn) Development news and links to UN agencies.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
17

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTE
THE BIG LOOP Three Weeks / Ulaanbaatar to the Gobi & the North
From Ulaanbaatar, head south to the eerie rock formations of Baga Gazryn
Chuluu (p197) and the ruined castle at Süm Khökh Burd (p197), stopping at Eej
Khad (Mother Rock; p109) en route. From Süm Khökh Burd, stop by Ulaan
Suvraga (p198) on your way south.
At least three days are needed to explore Ömnögov: the spectacular ice
canyon at Yolyn Am (p208), the massive sand dunes at Khongoryn Els (p209)
and the dinosaur quarry at Bayanzag (p208).
From Bayanzag go north to the ruins of Ongiin Khiid desert monastery (p197),
a perfect place to organise a camel trek.
Leaving the Gobi, your first stop is Erdene Zuu Khiid (p120), the country’s
oldest monastery. Head west to Tsetserleg (p126), a good place to break the
journey, before proceeding to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (p130) for fishing, swim-
ming, hiking or horse riding.
An additional five to seven days are needed for a trip north to spec-
tacular Khövsgöl Nuur (p152). On the route back to Ulaanbaatar don’t miss
Amarbayasgalant Khiid (p140), an architectural gem.

Khövsgöl
Nuur Welcome to
Mongolia 101, the
starter route for
Amarbayasgalant
Mörön Khiid most first-timers
keen to see the
top attractions
and a wide range
Terkhiin Ögii
Nuur ULAANBAATAR
of landscapes.
Tsagaan
Nuur
Tsetserleg
This 2600km route
Erdene
Eej Khad
(Mother Rock) gives you the best
Zuu Khiid
of the best: sand
dunes, alpine lakes
Süm Baga
Khökh
Burd
Gazryn
Chuluu
and the ancient
capital Karakorum.
Ongiin
Khiid Although seem-
Ulaan Suvraga
ingly on ‘main
routes’, this is still
Bayanzag a rough, remote
Khongoryn and unpredictable
Els Yolyn Am
journey.
 18 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 19

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED EASTERN MONGOLIA 12 Days / Ulaanbaatar to Khentii,

Dornod & Sükhbaatar
Eastern Mongolia offers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some
WESTERN MONGOLIA One Month / Khovd to Uliastai unique historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid of tourists.
The western aimags offer adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenaline Heading east from UB, you’ll pass the new Chinggis Khaan statue (p110) on
junkies can break out the mountain bike, kayak or mountaineering gear. the way to Khökh Nuur (p171), a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the
Start with a flight to Khovd (p232), from where you can hire a jeep and great khaan. Continue northeast, visiting Baldan Baraivan Khiid (p171), Öglögchiin
driver for a bird-watching and wildlife expedition at Khar Us Nuur National Park Kherem (p171), Batshireet and Binder (p171) as you travel through Khentii’s sce-
(p235). At nearby Chandmani (p236) visit the renowned throat singers. Looping nic countryside. Dadal (p173) is a good place for horse trekking or just kicking
back through Khovd, continue northwest to the beautiful pastures and valley back with some locals, and is an excellent destination for Naadam.
around Tsambagarav Uul (p228). You could easily spend a couple of days here Following the Ulz Gol further east you’ll pass pretty Buriat villages,
before moving on to Ölgii (p223), a great place to recharge your batteries. such as Bayan-Uul and Bayandun, and nature reserves including Ugtam
Heading west from Ölgii, spend at least five days getting to, from and around Uul (p178) before turning south to Choibalsan (p175).
Altai Tavan Bogd National Park (p229). With more time, consider doing a horse trek An alternative route to Choibalsan goes via the nature reserve Toson Khulstai
around Khoton Nuur (p230). With proper equipment, permits and some logistic (p175) and ancient ruins at Kherlen Bar Khot (p177).
support, it’s even possible to scale Mongolia’s highest peak, the 4374m Tavan From Choibalsan take the train to Chuluunkhoroot (p178) to visit Mongol
Bogd (p231), though a visit to the base camp and glacier is more feasible. Daguur B (p178), a protected area for wader birds, or travel across the empty
On the way to Tavan Bogd, stop in at Sogoog (p229), the only village in steppes to Khalkhiin Gol (p179), a remote landscape of lakes, rivers, wildlife
Mongolia with an espresso machine! and historical sights. Highlights include giant Buddha statues carved into a
From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing Üüreg Nuur (p240) hillside and monuments dedicated to soldiers who died here during WWII.
en route to Ulaangom (p237). Allow a week for trekking around Kharkhiraa You’ll need another couple of days to visit the lush Nömrög Strictly Protected
Valley (p241). An experienced driver can get you from Ulaangom to Uliastai Area (p174) and Sangiin Dalai Nuur (p179).
(p243), visiting Khyargas Nuur (p242) and Ikh Agui (p246) en route. From pretty The Dariganga region (p182), with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scat-
Uliastai you can get a flight to Ulaanbaatar, but not before mounting a horse tered stone statues, requires two or three days. Horse trekking is also possible
or hiking to Otgon Tenger Uul (p245). here. Return to UB via Baruun-Urt (p180) and Öndörkhaan (p168), or travel to
Sainshand (p199) for a taste of the Gobi and a visit to Khamaryn Khiid (p202).

Mongol
Daguur B
This 1500km
Chuluunkhoroot
journey takes you Ugtam Uul
Bayandun
to the ‘wild west’, Üüreg
Nuur Bayan-Uul
a dreamy land- Ulaangom
Dadal
Batshireet
scape of moun- Tavan Bogd
(4374m) Kharkhiraa
Binder Toson Khulstai Khalkhiin
Gol
Öglögchiin Nature Reserve
Valley Choibalsan
tains, glaciers, Altai Tavan Bogd
Kherem Eastern Mongolia is
National Park Sogoog Balden Baraivan Khiid Kherlen Bar Khot
lakes and rushing Khoton Ölgii Khyargas Khökh Nuur
Sangiin
Dalai
a perfect place for
Nuur Nuur Ulaanbaatar Nuur
rivers. Your inner Chinggis Khaan Statue
Öndörkhaan
Nömrög
Strictly
trailblazers. Very
adventurer will be Tsambagarav Baruun-Urt Protected
Area few tourists take
Uul
satiated with the (4202m) this 2300km loop
remoteness of the Khovd
Khar Us
Nuur
so you’ll have the
landscape and its Khar Us Nuur
National Park Dariganga
enormous steppes,
unique inhabit- Chandmani
Ikh Agui
fish-filled lakes
Uliastai Sainshand
ants: throat sing- and forests to your-
Otgon Tenger Khamaryn
ers, eagle-hunters Uul
(3905m)
Khiid self. The region
and the odd cattle is rich in wildlife
rustler. You’ll need and with a serious
at least 10 days zoom camera you
in the area; more can photograph
for trekking in the some fleet-footed
Altai Mountains. gazelle.
© Lonely Planet Publications
20 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s www.lonelyplanet.com

TAILORED TRIPS
EAGLES, WOLVES AND GAZELLE, OH MY!
Patience, luck and a pair of binoculars are essential items for wildlife spotting
in Mongolia. You’re unlikely to see much on a quick tour but head out to
the furthest reaches of the country and you’ll be in for some surprises.
The plains of Dornod (p174) and Sükhbaatar (p180) aimags are home to
hundreds of thousands of gazelle – their migrations can rival those on
the Serengeti. A tripod and a lens of at least 600mm will come in handy
if you’re hoping to photograph them.
Khustain National Park (p115), 100km west of Ulaanbaatar, is home to dozens
of takhi horses (Przewalski’s horse – the world’s only purely wild horse).
Southeast of here, at Ikh Nart (p198), you
stand a good chance of spotting argali sheep.
While in remote Gov-Altai aimag the Great
Gobi Strictly Protected Area (p218) is home to
Khyargas
Khövsgöl wild asses, wild camels and Gobi bears.
Bayan- Nuur
Ölgii Khustain Travel in northern Khövsgöl (p148) aimag
Khar Us National Park Dornod
Nuur and you will eventually spot wolf, fox and, with
Sükhbaatar luck, the odd deer or moose.
Great Gobi
Strictly
Ikh Nart Bird-watchers shouldn’t miss Khetsuu
Prohibited Area
Khad, an enormous rock on the southern
shore of Khyargas Nuur (p242), where hun-
dreds of cormorant birds roost in sum-
mer. Other great places to see birds include
Khar Us Nuur (p235) in Khovd and in Bayan-
Ölgii (p222) where Kazakhs keep eagles for
hunting purposes.

BUDDHIST HERITAGE
After viewing UB’s two exquisite monasteries, Gandan Khiid (p73) and Choijin
Lama (p75), take a short trip south near Zuunmod to see Mandshir Khiid (p106),
located on a forested flank of Bogdkhan Uul. Add to the pilgrimage by travel-
ling there on foot over the mountain from UB, a seven-hour hike.
In the east of the country, the legacy of Buddhism is not a monastery
at all but an enormous statue of Janraisag (p179) carved into the hillside
in Dornod.
Heading west from UB, travel on a decent road to Övgön Khiid (p125),
located at the foot of the pretty Khogno Khan Uul. From here you are just a
couple of hours from Mongolia’s oldest monastery, Erdene Zuu Khiid (p120).
From Erdene Zuu Khiid swing southwest to
the lovely mountainside hermitage of Tövkhön
Khiid (p124), where the famed Buddhist artist
Zanabazar had a workshop and retreat.
Amarbayasgalant
Returning on the same road, proceed to
Khiid Tsetserleg and the Zayain Gegeenii Süm (p127),
Övgön Gandan,
Janraiseg now converted into one of the country’s nicest
Khiid Choijin Lama
Zayain Gegeenii
Süm Mandshir
museums. Heading back east, visit the jewel
Tövkhön Erdene Khiid in this class, Amarbayasgalant Khiid (p140).
Khiid Zuu
Khiid With more time and a sturdy jeep, head
Khamaryn
Khiid into the Gobi for a special pilgrimage to the
Demchigiin sights associated with the famed mystic monk
Khiid Danzan Ravjaa, including Khamaryn Khiid
(p202) and Demchigiin Khiid (p207).
© Lonely Planet Publications
4

On the Road

MICHAEL KOHN Coordinating Author

Our trekking guide to Tavan Bogd (p229) was a young Tuvan man named Ganbaatar. Despite
not bringing any food, water or warm clothes, Ganbaatar led us into the mountains with
storm clouds threatening overhead. When we reached the first glacier the clouds parted to © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
reveal a spectacular amphitheatre of mountains and glaciers. restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
MY FAVOURITE TRIP the valleys and ravines for prey. By night we ate only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
A man, an eagle and a horse, melded together communal dinners of boiled sheep parts, and everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
huddled around the stove to fend off the cold.
into a medieval WMD; now that was something
Ten days and an equal number of numb toes
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
I had to see. This incredible hunting force, the
‘eagle-hunter’, could only be found in mystical later, I finally witnessed a kill – two golden eagles
Bayan-Ölgii and the hunt would only take place swooping down from the sky to converge on an
in winter. After a four-hour propeller-plane ride unfortunate fox. I am no hunter myself but to be
from Ulaanbaatar, I landed in Ölgii and proceeded witness to an ancient rite that has not changed
west in -20°C temperatures to Altai Tavan Bogd for a couple of millennia, and one even described
National Park (p229), where I came to know half by Marco Polo, was something truly spectacular.
a dozen local men who proudly showed me their
eagles. They invited me for the hunt and set me ABOUT THE AUTHOR
up with a horse to follow them as they scoured Michael first arrived in Mongolia in late 1997,
when he was hired to work at the Mongol Mes-
senger in Ulaanbaatar. His three-year stint at the
paper included freelance work for the Associated
Press and BBC, a gig as a talk-show host on Mon-
gol Radio, a starring role in a Mongolian film and
a short run as a local TV news broadcaster. His
Ölgii
travels have led him through all 21 aimags, oc-
Altai Tavan Bogd
National Park casionally by bicycle or in the back of a truck with
sheep, and other times in helicopters or Humvees
with politicians and diplomats. Michael’s articles
on Mongolian culture, politics and history have
appeared in the New York Times, Wall Street Journal
and San Francisco Chronicle. He is also the author of
two books, Dateline Mongolia and Lama of the Gobi.
Find him on the web at www.michaelkohn.us.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
21

History By Jack Weatherford & Dulmaa Enkhchuluun

Over the past 2000 years, possibly no other place on the planet has exported
as much history as Mongolia. In three dramatic waves – Hun, Turk and,
finally, Mongol – hordes of warriors rode their small but powerful horses
down from the Mongolian Plateau to challenge and transform the world. The
steppe warriors not only conquered nations, they swept up whole civilisations Anthropologist Jack
and reassembled them into intercontinental empires of a scale never before Weatherford wrote Geng-
reached by any other people. his Khan and the Making
Although each of the three waves produced its distinctive influence, the of the Modern World, for
name of Chinggis Khaan achieved a unique spot in the world’s imagina- which he received the
tion. He created the nation in 1206 and named it after his Mongol lineage. Order of the Polar Star,
Mongols still maintain an intimate tie to him, but beyond the use of his Mongolia’s highest state
iconic image and name, there seems to be surprisingly little in the nation con- honour.
nected directly to him. Chinggis Khaan left behind a nation, but he did not
leave a monument to himself, a temple, pyramid, palace, castle or canal, and
even his grave was left unmarked in the remote area where he grew up and
hunted as a boy. As he himself wished, his body could wither away so long as
his great Mongol nation lived, and today that nation is his monument.
The lack of tangible ties to Chinggis Khaan presents both a challenge Dulmaa Enkhchuluun
and an opportunity to visitors; Mongolia does not yield its history promis- graduated from Augsburg
cuously to every passer-by. Its story is not told in great books, large stone College in Minnesota and
monuments or bronze statues. A hiker crossing a hilltop can easily find now owns Borijin Travel,
etchings of deer with baroque configurations of antlers, soaring falcons a company devoted to
or shamans without faces, but was the image etched last year by a bored culturally and environ-
herder, a century ago by a pious lama or 25,000 years ago by a passing mentally responsible
hunter? A small stone implement could have been abandoned there cen- tourism and commer-
turies ago by a Hun mother preparing a family meal or by a Turk warrior cial development in
on a raid; the modern visitor might easily be the first human to clutch it in Mongolia.
3000 years. The artefact does not come labelled, classified and explained.
The stories of the steppe are incomplete, and history emerges slowly from
the objects, the soil and the landscape.

HUNS: CHILDREN OF THE SUN

The first of the steppe nomads to make an impact beyond Mongolia were
Khan means Chief or King;
the tribe whom the Mongols now call the ‘People of the Sun’, the Hunnu,
Khaan means Emperor or
better known as the Huns. They created the first steppe empire in 209 BC
Great Khan.
under Modun, a charismatic leader who took the title shanyu (king) and
ruled until his death in 174 BC. Modun created a disciplined and strong
cavalry corps personally devoted to him, and used the corps to overthrow
and kill his father.

209 BC–174 BC AD 552–744 744–840

Reign of Modun, as shanyu of Succession of two Turkic The Uighur empire occupies
the Huns; the first great steppe empires; greatest ruler is Bilge central Mongolia until expelled
empire of Mongolia stretches Khan. Following his death in by the Kyrgyz tribe; the Uighur
from Korea to Lake Baikal in 734 a monument is erected move south into western China
Siberia and south into northern near Lake Ögii. and control the Silk Route for
China. nearly 1000 years.
 22 H I S T O R Y • • Tu r k s : C h i l d re n o f t h e W o l f M o t h e r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • M o n g o l s : C h i l d re n o f t h e G o l d e n L i g h t 23

Between the creation of the Qing dynasty in China in 221 BC and the
collapse of the Han dynasty in AD 220, the Chinese became the dominant THE FIRE CULT OF THE JESUS BUDDHA
economic power in East Asia, but the steppe tribes under the Huns grew During the Turkic empires from the 6th century through 9th century, the steppe nomads refused
into a great military power. The Chinese and the Huns vied for dominance to convert to any of the major world religions, such as Islam, Buddhism or Christianity. They chose
through protracted wars with intermittent truces, during which the Chinese to follow the teachings of 3rd-century Persian prophet Mani, who was martyred for preaching a
bribed the steppe warriors with tributes of goods and women, including doctrine of dualism: good and evil represented through light and dark.
The Encyclopedia of
imperial princesses. Using the merchandise extracted from the Chinese, the Manicheans accepted the teachings of Jesus, Hermes, Buddha and Zoroaster as well as those
Mongolia and the Mongol
Huns extended the trade routes connecting the civilisations around them. of philosophers such as Plato and Socrates. They sang hymns to ‘Jesus Buddha’ as well as to
Empire, by Christopher P
Following the collapse of the Hun empire in the 4th century AD, various light, for which Christians dismissed them as idolatrous fire worshippers.
Atwood, is an authorita-
newly independent tribes left the Mongolian homeland, wandering from Manicheism spread as an underground religious movement from India to Egypt, but Christian
tive history reference
India to Europe in search of new pastures and new conquests. By the 5th and Muslim authorities persecuted followers and chased them to ever more remote areas until the
book with special empha-
century, one of these branches reached Europe and created a new Hun em- religion made its last and most important refuge in Mongolia. When the Uighur king in central
sis on Buddhism.
pire that stretched from the Ural Mountains to Germany. Under their most Mongolia converted in AD 763, the Uighur empire became the only nation in history to accept
famous leader, Attila the Hun, they threatened Rome and ravaged much of Manicheism as the state religion.
Western Europe, and for the first time in history mounted archers from the Manicheans compared their religion to a great world ocean, into which all rivers of knowledge
Mongolian steppe created an intercontinental reputation for their fierceness flow, and this imagery persisted in Mongolian culture, as shown in the title ‘Chinggis Khaan’
and tenacity in battle. (Ocean King). Similarly, son Ögedei and grandson Guyuk used the title ‘Dalai Khaan’ from the
Anthropologist Chris Mongolian dalai meaning sea. In the 16th century, Altan Khaan bestowed this ancient title on a
Kaplonski maintains an TURKS: CHILDREN OF THE WOLF MOTHER new line of Buddhist monks from Tibet, allowing them to call their leader Dalai Lama, meaning
excellent site devoted In the 6th century a new sense of order returned to the Mongolian Plateau ‘Sea of Wisdom’.
to Mongolian culture with the rise of a series of tribes speaking Turkic languages. These tribes
and history at www claimed descent from a boy who was left for dead but saved and adopted by
.chriskaplonski.com a mother wolf who raised him and then mated with him, creating from their MONGOLS: CHILDREN OF THE GOLDEN LIGHT
offspring the ancestors of the various steppe clans. Compared with both the The decline of the Turkic tribes gave the opening for a new tribe to emerge.
Huns before them and the Mongols after them, the literate Turks sought to Scholars offer varying explanations for when and where these new people
blend the traditional nomadic herding life with a sedentary life of agriculture, arrived, but the Mongols ascribe their origins to the mating of a blue wolf
Chinggis Khaan never urbanisation and commerce; consequently, they left more physical remains and a tawny doe beside a great sea, often identified as Lake Baikal (in Russia).
erected any statues or than the others in the ruins of Turkic cities and ceremonial centres. Along They further credit the origin of Chinggis Khaan’s own clan to a mysteri- A Mongol is a member
grand monuments to the Orkhon Gol in central Mongolia they built their small cities of mud, the ous and sacred woman called Alan Goa, who gave birth to two sons during of the Mongol ethnic
himself, but recent years most famous of which were erected during the time of the Uighurs, the last her marriage, and had an additional three sons after her husband died. The group; a Mongolian is
have seen modern Mon- of the great Turkic empires of Mongolia. The Turkic era reached its zenith elder sons suspected that their younger brothers had been fathered by an a citizen of Mongolia.
golians trying to catch up in the early 8th century under Bilge Khan and his brother Kultegen, the adopted boy (now a man) whom their mother had also raised and who Kazakhs of Bayan-Ölgii
in this area. Statues of military general. Their monuments near the Orkhon Gol are probably the lived with her. are Mongolians but not
Chinggis can be seen at oldest known examples of writing in a Turkic language. Upon hearing of their suspicions and complaints, Alan Goa sat her five Mongols; the Kalmyks of
Sükhbaatar Sq in UB, on Like the Huns before them the Turks moved down off the Mongolian sons around the hearth in her ger and told them that the three younger sons New Jersey are Mongols
the Ulaanbaatar–Khentii Plateau, spreading from what is today China to the shores of the were fathered by a ‘Golden Light’. She then handed each an arrow with the but not Mongolians.
road, in Öndörkhaan and Mediterranean. Another invading Turkic tribe, the Kyrgyz, overthrew the command to break it. When they had done this, she handed each a bundle
in Dadal. Uighur empire in AD 840, destroying its cities and driving the Uighur people of five arrows with the command to break them all together. When the boys
south into the oases of western China. But the Kyrgyz showed no inclination could not do so, she told them that it mattered not where the brothers came
to maintain the cities or the empire they had conquered. With the expul- from so long as they remained united.
sion of the Uighurs came another period of decentralised feuding and strife, No matter what the Mongol origin, the story of Alan Goa had a persist-
before the greatest of all Mongolian empires arose at the beginning of the ent and profound influence on the development of Mongolian culture,
13th century: the rise to power of Chinggis Khaan. on everything from the role of women and attitudes towards sexuality to

1162 1204 1206 1235 1260 1271

Birth of Temujin, the child Chinggis Khaan establishes the Chinggis Khaan calls a massive Ögedei Khaan completes the The end of Mongol expansion Kublai Khaan claims the office
destined to become Chinggis Mongolian state script based on conclave at Kherlen Gol and imperial capital at Karakorum. with their defeat by the Mam- of Great Khan and also makes
Khaan, near the Onon River. the Uighur alphabet, which had creates his empire to which he In addition to a great palace, luk army of Egypt at the Battle himself Emperor of China by
According to legend, Temujin Semitic origins but was written gives the name Great Mongol the city has Muslim mosques, of Ayn Al-Jalut near the Sea of founding the Yuan dynasty.
emerges with a blood clot vertically from top to bottom. Nation. Christian churches and Bud- Galilee.
clutched in his fist. dhist temples.
 24 H I S T O R Y • • T h e M o n g o l E m p i re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Decline 25

the political quest for unity and the herder’s value of practical action over
ideology or religion. CHINGGIS KHAAN: MAN OF THE MILLENNIUM
Known to the world as a conqueror, Mongolians remember Chinggis Khaan as the great lawgiver
THE MONGOL EMPIRE and proudly refer to him as the Man of the Millennium (a title bestowed on him by the Washington
The Mongols were little more than a loose confederation of rival clans Post in 1995). His laws derived from practical considerations more than ideology or religion.
until the birth of Temujin in 1162. Overcoming conditions that would After the abduction of his wife Borte, Chinggis recognised the role of kidnapping in perpetu-
have crushed lesser men, Temujin rose to become the strongest ruler on ating feuds among clans and outlawed it. Similarly, he perceived religious intolerance as being
Rivers in Mongolia are
the steppe, and in AD 1206 founded the Mongol empire and took the title a source of violence in sedentary society and so decreed religious freedom for everyone and
female and may be
‘Chinggis Khaan’. He was already 44 years old and since the age of 16, when exempted religious scholars and priests from taxes.
called ej (mother). A
his bride was kidnapped, he had been fighting one clan feud and tribal war To promote trade and communications, Chinggis built an international network of postal
river, spring or lake that
after another. Frustrated with the incessant chaos, he began killing off the stations that also served as hostels for merchants. He decreased and standardised the taxes on
never runs dry is called a
leaders of each clan as he defeated them and incorporating the survivors into goods so that they would not be repeatedly taxed. Under these laws the Mongol empire formed
khatun (queen).
his own following. Through this harsh but effective way, Chinggis Khaan the first intercontinental free-trade zone.
forced peace onto the clans around him. In an era when ambassadors served as hostages to be publicly tortured or killed during times
He named the new state Yeke Mongol Ulus (Great Mongol Nation). of hostilities, Chinggis Khaan ordered that every ambassador be considered as an envoy of peace.
His followers totalled probably under a million people, and from this he This law marked the beginning of diplomatic immunity and international law. Today nearly every
created an army of nine units of 10,000 and a personal guard of another country accepts and promotes, at least in theory, the ideas and policies behind the ‘Great Law
10,000. With a nation smaller than the workforce of a modern corporation of Chinggis Khaan’.
such as Wal-mart, and an army that could fit inside a modern stadium, the
Mongols conquered the greatest armies of the era and subdued hundreds
of millions of people. The Mongols of Russia became in effect independent, known later as the
In battle Chinggis Khaan was merciless, but to those who surrendered Golden Horde, under the lineage of Chinggis Khaan’s eldest son Jochi. Persia
without fighting he promised protection, religious freedom, lower taxes and and Mesopotamia drifted off to become the Ilkhanate under descendents of
a heightened level of commerce and prosperity. His law and incorruptible Kublai’s only surviving brother Hulegu, the conqueror of Baghdad.
officials did more to attract people into his empire than his military power. Kublai created a Chinese dynasty named Yuan, took Chinese titles and,
Geoffrey Chaucer’s The
Based on military success and good laws, his empire continued to expand while still claiming to be the Great Khan of the Mongols, looked southward The English word ‘horde’
Canterbury Tales (1395),
after his death until it stretched from Korea to Hungary and from India to the remaining lands of the Sung dynasty, which he soon conquered. derives from the Mongol
recognised as the first
to Russia. Much of Central Asia, including Mongolia, pursued an independent course ordu, meaning ‘royal
book of poetry written court’.
in English, includes an
and acknowledged the Yuan dynasty only when forced with a military inva-
early account of Chinggis
THE DECLINE sion or enticed with extravagant bribes of silk, silver and other luxuries. By
After Chinggis Khaan’s death, his second son Ögedei ruled from 1229 to 1368 the subjects had mostly overthrown their Mongol overlords, and the
Khaan in the ‘Squire’s
1241, followed by Ögedei’s widow Töregene Khatun and the brief 18-month empire withdrew back to the Mongolian steppe where it began. Although
Tale’. The best source for
reign of Ögedei’s son Guyuk from 1246 through 1248. Tensions began to most Mongols melted into the societies that they conquered, in some distant information on the life
develop among the branches of his descendants, and broke into open civil war corners of the empire, from Afghanistan to Poland, small vestiges of the of Chinggis Khaan can
when Arik Boke and Kublai each claimed the office of Great Khan after the Mongols still survive to the present. be found in The Secret
death of their brother Möngke in 1259. Arik Boke controlled all of Mongolia, In 1368 the Ming army captured Beijing, but the Mongol royal family History of the Mongols,
including the capital Karakorum, and enjoyed widespread support from the refused to surrender and fled back to Mongolia with the imperial seals and which was written in the
ruling Borijin clan. Yet Kublai controlled the vast riches of northern China, their bodyguards. Much to the frustration of the Ming emperors in China, 13th or 14th century and
and these proved far more powerful. Kublai defeated his brother who then the Mongols continued to claim to be the legitimate rulers of China and was not made public until
perished under suspicious circumstances in captivity. still styled themselves as the Yuan dynasty, also known as the Northern the 20th century.
Kublai won the civil war and solidified his hold over China, but it cost Yuan. Even within Mongolia, the Imperial Court exerted little power.
him his empire. Although they still claimed to be a single empire, the nation Unaccustomed to the hardships of the herding life and demanding vast
of Chinggis Khaan had been reduced to a set of oft-warring sub-empires. amounts of food, fuel and other precious resources for their large court

1368 1448 1449 1585 1603 1634

Yuan dynasty collapses in China Birth of Mongolia’s greatest Esen Taishi defeats the Chinese Founding of Erdene Zuu, first A descendant of Chinggis Death of Ligden Khaan, the last
but the Mongol government queen, Manduhai the Wise, and captures the Ming em- Buddhist monastery in Mon- Khaan and great-great grand- of Chinggis Khaan’s descend-
return to Mongolia refusing to who reunites Mongolia by the peror. His reign marks the rise golia, at the site of the Mongol son of Queen Manduhai is ants to rule as Great Khan.
submit to the newly created end of the century. of western Mongolia and the capital, Karakorum (modern enthroned in Lhasa Tibet as Eastern Mongolia becomes
Ming dynasty. They continue Oirat people as major powers of Kharkhorin). the fourth Dalai Lama, the only part of the Manchu empire, but
ruling as the ‘Northern Yuan’. Inner Asia. Mongolian Dalai Lama. western Mongolia holds out.
 26 HISTORY •• Revolutions lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Revolutions 27

CAPITALS OF THE MONGOLS WARRIOR QUEENS OF MONGOLIA

„ Avarga – the first capital of the Mongols consisted of a nomadic camp with a few storage
Chinggis Khaan’s greatest disappointment in life was the quality of his sons, but his greatest pride
buildings where the Avarga stream joins the Kherlen Gol in Khentii aimag. Originally known was in the daughters. He left large sections of his empire under the control of his daughters,
as Khödöö Aral, Avarga later became a shrine for the cult of Chinggis Khaan. although they gradually lost power to his sons.
The Mongol women presented a strange sight to the civilisations they helped conquer. They
„ Karakorum Needing a larger, more permanent centre, Chinggis Khaan’s son Ögedei Khaan rode horses, shot arrows from their bows and commanded the men and women around them.
built Karakorum (modern Kharkhorin), the place of black walls, and used it as his capital until In China, the Mongol women rejected foot-binding; in the Muslim world, they refused to wear
his death in 1241. The city had temples of all the major religions and included workmen from the veil.
around the empire, the most famous of whom was the French goldsmith who sculpted a At Ögedei’s death, probably in an alcoholic stupor, in 1241 his widow Töregene assumed
large silver tree with four fountains. Little of ancient Karakorum remains above the ground complete power. She replaced the ministers with her own, the most important of whom was
other than one large stone tortoise. another woman, Fatima, a Tajik or Persian captive from the Middle Eastern campaign. In addition
„ Khanbalik and Shangdu By 1266 Kublai Khaan located his base of operations in northern to the rule of Töregene and Fatima from Karakorum in Mongolia, two of the other three divisions
China, as close to Mongolia as possible yet connected by canal to the Yellow River in order of the empire also had female governors. Only the Golden Horde of Russia remained under male
to obtain goods from throughout China. Over the next decade he created his winter capital rule. Never before had such a large empire been ruled by women.
Khanbalik (modern Beijing). In the summer the court moved out on the steppes to Shangdu, Töregene passed power on to her inept son Guyuk in 1246, but he died mysteriously within 18
also called Xanadu. months and was replaced by his widow Oghul Ghamish, who had to face Sorkhokhtani, the most
„ Uliastai and Ulaanbaatar In 1733 the Manchus founded Uliastai in modern Zavkhan aimag, capable woman in the empire. With the full support of her four sons, whom she trained for this
and it served as the capital of Outer Mongolia until 1911. When Mongolia broke from the moment, Sorkhokhtani organised the election of her eldest son Möngke on 1 July 1251. So great
Manchus, Mongolia’s religious leader, the Bogd Khan, moved the capital to its present loca- was her achievement, a Persian chronicler wrote that if history produced only one more woman
tion, then called Urga or Ikh Khuree. In 1924 the communists changed the name to Ulaanbaa- equal to Sorkhokhtani then surely women would have to be judged as the superior sex.
tar Hot, meaning ‘Red Hero City’. While Kublai Khaan ruled China, his cousin Khaidu continued to fight against him from Central
Asia and, true to the Mongol tradition, Khaidu’s daughter Khutlun fought with him. According
to Marco Polo, who called her Aiyaruk, she was both beautiful and powerful. She defeated so
and retainers, the Mongol rulers devastated their own country, alienated many men in wrestling that today Mongolian wrestlers wear an open vest in order to visibly
the increasingly impoverished herders and eventually became the captive distinguish male from female wrestlers.
pawns of the imperial guards. After the fall of the Mongol empire, the men returned to squabbling over sheep and stealing
In the 15th century, the Mongols united with the Manchus for the new horses, but the women kept the imperial spirit alive. In the late 15th century, a new conqueror
conquest of China and the creation of the Qing dynasty (1644–1911). arose determined to restore the empire. Known to the grateful Mongols as Manduhai the Wise
Initially, the ruling Manchus treated the Mongols with favour, gave them Queen, she took to the battlefield and united the scattered tribes into a single nation. She fought
Voltaire’s The Orphan of an exalted place in their empire and intermarried with them. Gradually, even while pregnant and was once injured while carrying twins. She and the twins survived, and
China, the first European however, the Manchus became ever more Sinicised by their Chinese sub- her army won the battle.
play on the life of Ching- jects and less like their Mongol cousins. The Mongols were reduced to Faced with Manduhai’s tenacity and skill, the Chinese frantically expanded the Great Wall.
gis Khaan, debuted in little more than a colonised people under the increasingly oppressive and Although she left seven sons and three daughters, the era of the great warrior queens of Mongolia
Paris in 1755. exploitative rule of the Manchus. had passed, but Mongolians still watch and wait for a new Manduhai.

REVOLUTIONS
In 1911 the Qing dynasty crumbled. The Mongols broke away and created In May 1915 the Treaty of Khyakhta, which granted Mongolia limited
their own independent country under their highest Buddhist leader, the autonomy, was signed by Mongolia, China and Russia.
Jebtzun Damba (Living Buddha), who became both spiritual and temporal The Russian Revolution of October 1917 came as a great shock to
head of the nation as the Bogd Khan (Holy King). When the Chinese also Mongolia’s aristocracy. Taking advantage of Russia’s weakness, a Chinese
broke free of the Manchus and created the Republic of China, the new na- warlord sent his troops into Mongolia in 1919 and occupied the capital. In
tion claimed portions of the Manchu empire, including Tibet and Mongolia. February 1921, retreating White Russian (anticommunist) troops entered

1639 1644 1696 1911 1915 1921

Zanabazar, a direct descend- The Manchus expel the Ming The Manchus defeat Galdan Mongolia declares independ- Treaty of Khyakhta is signed The mad Russian baron, Ungern
ent of Chinggis Khaan and the dynasty and with the support Khaan of Zungaria and claim ence from the dying Manchu by Mongolia, China and Rus- von Sternberg, briefly conquers
greatest artist in Mongolian his- of their Mongolian allies create western Mongolia for the empire and sets up religious sia, granting Mongolia limited Mongolia but the Red Army
tory, is recognised as the first the Qing dynasty over China. Qing Dynasty, but some leader Bogd Khan as the head autonomy. and Mongolian forces under D
Jebtzun Damba, the supreme western Mongolians continue of state. Sükhbaatar defeat him.
religious leader of Mongolia. to resist foreign rule for several
generations.
 28 HISTORY •• Revolutions lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Soviet Control 29

SOVIET CONTROL
THE MAD BARON After Lenin’s death in Russia in 1924, Mongolian communism remained
An unusual character in Mongolia’s history was Baron Roman Nikolaus Fyodirovich von Ungern- independent of Moscow until Stalin gained absolute power in the late 1920s.
Sternberg, a renegade White Russian officer who believed he was the reincarnation of Chinggis Then the purges began in Mongolia. MPRP leaders were disposed of until
Khaan, destined to restore the Mongol warlord’s previous empire. Contemporaries paint a fine Stalin finally found his henchman in one Khorloogiin Choibalsan.
picture of Baron von Ungern-Sternberg, later known as the Mad Baron, describing him as haunted- Following Stalin’s lead, Choibalsan seized from aristocrats their land and
looking, with a psychotic stare that fixed on people ‘like those of an animal in a cave’. He spoke herds, which were redistributed to nomads. Herders were forced to join coop-
with a high-pitched voice and his bulging forehead bore a huge sword scar, which pulsed with eratives and private business was banned. The destruction of private enterprise VI Pudovkin’s Soviet mas-
red veins whenever he grew agitated. As a finishing touch, one of his eyes was slightly higher without time to build up a working state sector had the same result in Mongolia terpiece Storm over Asia
than the other. as in the Soviet Union: famine. Choibalsan’s policy against religion was just as was the first Mongolian
The Bolshevik victory in Russia forced the Baron east, and he slowly accumulated a desperate ruthless – in 1937 some 27,000 people were executed or never seen again (3% film and contains the best
army of renegade mercenaries. He enforced discipline with a reign of terror, roasting deserters of Mongolia’s population at that time), of whom 17,000 were monks. extant images of herders
alive, baking defiant prisoners in ovens and throwing his rivals in locomotive boilers. He was Choibalsan died in January 1952 and was replaced by Yumjaagiin and monasteries in the
also a fervent Buddhist, convinced that he was doing his victims a favour by packing them off Tsedenbal – no liberal, but not a mass murderer – and Mongolia enjoyed early 20th century.
to the next life sooner rather than later. a period of relative peace. With the Sino–Soviet split in the early 1960s, the
With an army of 6000 troops (and tacit backing of the Japanese), the Baron crossed the Mongolian Mongolians sided with the Soviet Union. The Mongolian government ex-
border in the summer of 1920 with the aim of establishing a Pan-Mongol empire. By October pelled thousands of ethnic Chinese and all trade with China came to a halt.
his forces attacked Urga, but were driven back four times before finally taking the city. He freed Throughout the 1970s, Soviet influence gathered strength. Young
the Bogd Khan (who had been imprisoned by the Chinese), but Mongol joy turned to horror as Mongolians were sent to the USSR for technical training, and Tsedenbal’s
the next three days saw an orgy of looting, burning and killing. In May 1921 the Baron declared wife, a Russian woman of modest background named Filatova, attempted
himself the Emperor of Russia. to impose Russian culture – including food, music, dance, fashion and
After only a few months, the Bolshevik advance forced the Baron to abandon Urga. Out on the even language – on the Mongolians.
steppes, his own followers tried to kill him, shooting him in his tent, but he managed to escape.
A group of Mongolian herders later found him dying in the grass, tortured by biting ants. He was THE GREAT TRANSITION
eventually taken by the Bolsheviks, deported to Novosibirsk and shot on 15 September 1921, The unravelling of the Soviet Union resulted in decolonisation by default. During WWII, Mongolia
presumed mad. Dr Ferdinand Ossendowski, a Polish refugee living in Mongolia in the early 1920s, In March 1990, in sub-zero temperatures, large pro-democracy protests donated 300kg of gold
offers an excellent account of the Mad Baron in his book Beasts, Men and Gods. erupted in the square in front of the parliament building in Ulaanbaatar. and more than six million
Hunger strikes were held and in May 1990 the constitution was amended animals to supply Soviet
to permit multiparty elections in July of the same year. and Allied forces. More
Mongolia and expelled the Chinese. At first the Bogd Khan seemed to The political liberation of Mongolia from the Soviets came as an economic than 2000 Mongolians
Modern composer N welcome the White Russians as saviours of his regime, but it soon became disaster for Mongolia because of the heavy subsidies that the Soviets had paid died fighting Japan.
Jantsannarov created a apparent that they were just another ruthless army of occupation. to keep Mongolia as a buffer state between itself and China. The Mongols
series of symphonies and Mongolian nationalists believed their best hope for military assistance was lost much of their food supply and, unable to pay their electrical bills to the
other musical works cov- to ask the Bolsheviks for help. The White Russians disappeared from the scene Russian suppliers, the western districts were plunged into a blackout that The Blue Sky, by Galsan
ering Mongolian history when their leader, Baron von Ungern-Sternberg, was captured, tried and shot. lasted for several years. The economy of Mongolia withered and collapsed. Tschinag, presents a beau-
including Chinggis Khaan In July 1921 Damdin Sükhbaatar, the leader of the Mongolian army, marched The harsh conditions called for stringent measures and Mongolians cre- tifully written story about
and Queen Manduhai. uncontested into Urga (modern-day Ulaanbaatar) alongside Bolshevik sup- ated a unique approach to the new challenges. They began a radical privatisa- a remote Tuvan herding
porters. The People’s Government of Mongolia was declared and the Bogd tion of animals and large state-owned corporations. Unlike the other Soviet family in Mongolia during
Khan was retained as a ceremonial figurehead with no real power. Led by a satellites in Eastern Europe and Central Asia that expelled the communist socialist times.
Russian Cossacks adopted diverse coalition of seven revolutionaries, including Sükhbaatar, the newly party, the Mongolians created a new democratic synthesis that included both
the Mongol battle cry of formed Mongolian People’s Revolutionary Party (MPRP), the first political the old communists of the MPRP and a coalition that became known as the
‘hurray!’ and spread it to party in the country’s history (and the only one for the next 69 years), took Democrats. Freedom of speech, religion and assembly were all granted. The
the rest of the world. the reins of power. era of totalitarianism had ended.

1924 1939 1944 1945 1956 1961

The Bogd Khan, the eighth Japan invades Mongolia from The Soviet Union annexes Tuva In a UN-sponsored plebiscite, The Trans-Siberian railroad Mongolia admitted to the UN
reincarnation of the Jebtzun Manchuria in May. With help from Mongolia; many Tuvans Mongolians vote overwhelm- through Mongolia is completed, as an independent country, but
Damba, dies; the People’s from the Soviet Union, and flee to Mongolia (and remain ingly to confirm their inde- connecting Beijing with Mos- the Soviet Union continues to
Republic of Mongolia is created after heavy fighting along the a minority ethnic group in pendence but the USA and cow; the Chinese and Russian occupy Mongolia with troops
on 26 November. Khalkh Gol, the Mongols defeat Mongolia to this day). China refuse to admit Mongolia trains still operate on different and run the country as a satel-
Japan by September. to the UN. gauges, requiring a long delay lite state.
to change the wheels at the
Chinese– Mongolian border.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
30 H I S T O R Y • • T h e G re a t T r a n s i t i o n lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 31

THE MONGOL WHO SLAPPED STALIN

In 1932 P Genden became the ninth prime minister of Mongolia, and he used the slogan ‘Let’s
Get Rich!’ to inspire Mongolians to overcome the troubled fighting since the break up of the
Manchu Empire and the establishment of an independent country. Mongolia was the second
communist state, after the Soviet Union, but at this time Genden was trying to keep Mongolia
as an ally of the Soviets rather than a colony or satellite.
Genden resisted Stalin’s demands that Mongolia purge the Buddhist monks and charged the
Russians with ‘Red Imperialism’ for seeking to send Soviet troops into Mongolia. Amidst much
drinking at a reception in the Mongolian embassy in Moscow in 1935, the two men clashed,
literally. Stalin kicked Genden’s walking stick; Genden slapped Stalin and broke Stalin’s trademark
pipe that always accompanied him.
Stalin held Genden under house arrest until he was convicted as a Japanese spy and executed
by firing squad on 26 November 1937 – a day of great symbolic importance to the Mongols
because it was the date of their declaration of independence and creation of the Mongolian
People’s Republic.
In 1996 Genden’s daughter G Tserendulam opened the Victims of Political Persecution Memorial
Museum (p73) in Ulaanbaatar in memory of her father and all those who died in defence of
Mongolian independence.

The Mongolians gradually found their way towards the modern global
economy and embraced their own brand of capitalism and democracy
that drew heavily on their ancient history while adjusting to the modern
realities of the world around them. Despite difficult episodes, such as the © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
unsolved murder of the Democratic leader S Zorig in 1998 and some heated
In the mid-1950s Howard
demonstrations between government and citizens, Mongolia managed to
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Hughes cast John Wayne
move forwards with tremendous cultural vigour. While maintaining staunch only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
as Chinggis Khaan in The
friendships with old allies such as North Korea, Cuba and India, Mongolia everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Conqueror, one of the
reached out to Europe, South Korea, Japan and, most particularly, to the
worst films ever made by
USA, which they dubbed their ‘Third Neighbour’ in an effort to create a
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Hollywood.
counterpoint to China and Russia.
The traveller in Mongolia today sees a country that plays an increasingly
important role in world affairs, yet it is a country where any one of the
earlier rulers such as Modun, Bilge, or Chinggis could return today and feel
completely at home in a ger with a herding family. They would know what
tasks needed to be done and they would easily recognise the food, language,
music and dress because with only slight modifications the Mongolians have
maintained their traditional ways while slowly moving into the modern
world. Probably no country today preserves as much of its ancient way of life
as Mongolia, but that past is so alive that for many of us it is difficult to see
it. Perhaps this is the true gift of Chinggis Khaan to Mongolia and the world:
that, as he so ardently prayed, his body died but his nation survived.

1990 1996 2005

Democracy demonstrations First noncommunist govern- N Enkhbayar of the MPRP
break out in Ulaanbaatar. The ment is elected in Mongolia becomes Mongolian president;
Soviets begin withdrawal in (although the ‘ex-communist’ George W Bush becomes
March, and in June the first free, MPRP is returned to office in the first US president to visit
multiparty elections are held, 2000). Mongolia.
with the Mongolian People’s
Revolutionary Party (MPRP) win-
ning 85% of the vote.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
31

The Culture
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
Mongolians call themselves Asian by ethnicity but Western by culture. As
abstract as that might sound, your first encounters with Mongolians might
knock back a few preconceptions. It could be the European influence in
which their Russian masters immersed them throughout the 20th century,
or perhaps the long hours they now spend glued to CNN and MTV. But the
Mongolian likeness to Western thinking – and the distance the country has
put between itself and the rest of Asia – probably owes more to its nomadic
past and its environment than it does to any external influences.
The freedom to move about with their herds, the timelessness of the land
and the delicate relationship with the earth and its resources have all had a
profound effect on the Mongolian character. These persuasions have made
Mongolians humble, adaptable, good-humoured, uncannily stoic and unfet-
tered by stringent protocol; this causes visitors to wonder if these are the same
people who for centuries were vilified in the West as the ‘scourge of God’.
The great emptiness of their landscape and the vast distances gave birth to
a horse culture that is inseparable from Mongolian life. Reverence towards the
land, a product of shamanic beliefs, has attuned them to nature; the thought
of degrading the land or altering nature strikes many locals as profane.
The empty steppes have also made hospitality a matter of sheer necessity
The soyombo is the
rather than a social obligation. It would be difficult for anyone to travel
national symbol of
across the steppes without the hospitality that has developed, as each ger
Mongolia and signifies
is able to serve travellers as a hotel, restaurant, pub and repair shop. As a
freedom and independ-
result, Mongolians are able to travel rapidly over long distances without
ence. Its components
the weight of provisions. This hospitality is readily extended to strangers
symbolise many other
and usually given without fanfare or expectation of payment; foreigners
characteristics. Legend
are often perplexed by the casual welcoming they receive at even the most
attributes the soyombo
remote of gers.
to Zanabazar, the Living
The Mongolian ger plays a vital role in shaping both the Mongolian
Buddha.
character and family life. The small confines compel families to interact with
one another, to share everything and work together, tightening relationships
between relatives. It prevents privacy but promotes patience and makes inhi-
bitions fade away. It also creates self-sufficiency; ger dwellers must fetch their
own water and fuel, and subsist on the food they themselves produce.
The weather and the seasons also play a significant role in shaping the
Mongolian character. Spring in particular is a crucial time for Mongolians.
Because the country’s rainy season comes towards the end of summer, spring
is dry, dusty, windy and unforgiving. This is the time when the weaker animals
die and, it is said, when people die. Despite the severe temperatures, it is dur-
ing winter that Mongolians feel most comfortable. After a difficult summer
filled with chores and tending to livestock, winter is a time of relaxation.
Modern politics, economics and external forces further combine to com-
plete the Mongolian psyche. As an outward-looking people, Mongolian cul-
ture was greatly affected by Russian influences during the communist period.
The USSR’s implementation of universal education brought literacy to every
man, woman and child. In recent years, the age of democracy has led to glo-
balisation, and a Brave New World of mobile phones, the internet and mate-
rial excess. Having been isolated for millennia, Mongolians are hungry for all
that the world offers and many dream of living and studying overseas.
As a small country, Mongolia is eager to show itself on the world stage
and has sent peacekeeping forces to conflict zones worldwide. It was one of
 32 T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 33

the first countries to join the ‘coalition of the willing’ when the US invaded
Iraq in 2003. A surprising number of people still support that decision and RESPONSIBLE CULTURAL TOURISM
Mongolia may be the only country on earth that did not vehemently protest a The chief attraction of Mongolia is not its historic places of interest but rather the nomadic
Modern Mongolia, visit by George W Bush (in January 2006). There is a less-favourable attitude culture and its people. Keep in mind the following tips for acting responsibly when visiting a
Reclaiming Ghengis Khan, towards the war in the predominantly Muslim Bayan-Ölgii. ger and interacting with locals.
edited by Paula Sabloff, More than anything, an open Mongolia has brought a rekindled interest
is a pictorial account of „ Hospitality is an old custom on the steppes; visitors are invited in without question on arrival
in Mongolian culture, national pride and most of all, Chinggis Khaan. In
recent developments in at a distant ger. While you should enjoy Mongolia’s unique hospitality, please do not take
Ulaanbaatar, and even in many parts of the countryside, the modern world
Mongolia. Written with a advantage of it. If you spend a night and have a meal leave a minimum of T5000 or a useful
has found a place alongside the traditional.
sometimes controversial gift such as rice, children’s books in Mongolian or AA- or D-size batteries.
edge, it discusses the LIFESTYLE „ Mongolians are not keen on bargaining and don’t play the bargaining game. When haggling
economy, ger etiquette, About half of all Mongolians live in a ger, the one-room round felt tent for a hotel room or jeep, never expect to get the price you demand. If you’re lucky you may
social issues and Chinggis traditionally used by nomads. The other half live in Russian-style apartment be able to knock down a price by 10% but not more.
Khaan’s principles, and blocks. Only since the late 1990s have Mongolians started constructing more „ Don’t pay to take a photo of someone, or photograph someone if they don’t want you to. If
suggests these are the elaborate Western-style homes; most of these are upgraded dachas found you agree to send someone a photograph, please follow through on this.
foundations of modern outside of Ulaanbaatar.
Mongolia. Apartments are rabbit-hole affairs, usually two or three rooms with Russian When visiting a ger, note the following customs and habits. See also p46 for some hints about
furnishings and large carpets hanging from the walls. Gers are often equipped eating etiquette.
with traditional furnishings painted bright orange with fanciful designs. Set „ Say hello (sain bai-na uu) when you arrive (but repeating it again when you see the same
out in like manner, gers have three beds around the perimeter, a chest covered person later that day or even the next day is considered strange to Mongolians).
with Buddhist iconography at the back wall and a low table upon which food
is set. Everything revolves around a central hearth, with the women’s side „ Avoid walking in front of an older person or turning your back to the altar or to religious
to the right and the men’s to the left. The head of the household sits at the objects (except when leaving).
northern end of the ger with his most honoured guest to his right. The area „ If someone offers you their snuff bottle, accept it with your right hand (as if you were shaking
Women of Mongolia, by near the door is the place of lowest rank and the domain of children. hands). If you don’t take the snuff, at least sniff the top part of the bottle. But don’t grab the
Martha Avery, contains In ger districts, people get their water from a central pump house and cart bottle from the top.
a string of interviews it home in metal jugs. Each hashaa (fenced area) has a pit toilet. Those in „ Try to keep ger visits to less than two hours to avoid interrupting the family’s work.
in which local women need of a shower may visit the apartment of a friend or relative, or stop by
speak about the changes a public bathhouse. Given the lack of water in most areas, regular bathing Bear in mind the following superstitions and religious habits:
and challenges affecting is impossible for most nomads.
both nomadic and urban Nomads tend to move two to four times a year, although in areas where „ When offered some vodka, dip your ring finger of your right hand into the glass, and lightly
women. grass is thin they move more often. One nuclear family may live alone or flick a drop (not too much – vodka is also sacred!) once towards the sky, once in the air ‘to
with an extended-family camp of three or four gers (known as an ail); any the wind’ and once to the ground. If you don’t want any vodka, go through the customs any-
more than that would be a burden on the grassland. way. Then put the same finger to your forehead, say thanks and return the glass to the table.
A livestock herd should contain around 300 animals to be self-sustaining, „ Don’t point a knife in any way at anyone; when passing a knife pass it handle first; when cut-
although some wealthy herders may have 1000 head of livestock. Nearly all ting (eg from a chunk of meat held in one hand) use the knife to cut towards you, not away.
families have a short-wave radio to get national and world news, and these „ Don’t point your feet at the hearth, at the altar or at another person. Sleep with your feet
days many families also have satellite TV, DVD players and mobile phones. pointing towards the door.
In winter the children of the ger go to school in the nearest town (where they
„ If you have stepped on anyone, or kicked their feet, immediately shake their hand.
live in dorms), visiting their parents during holidays and summer.
More Mongols live out- Regular schooling has brought near-universal literacy – you’ll frequently „ Don’t stand on or lean over the threshold.
side Mongolia than in it. see nomads reading out-of-date newspapers. Despite the distances, people „ Don’t lean against a support column.
Around 3.5 million ethnic remain connected to markets, selling their goods in towns or to traders
Mongols are citizens „ Don’t touch another person’s hat.
who drive around the countryside, swapping sacks of flour or other goods
of China and nearly a for skins, meat and wool. Doctors also make house calls, driving ger to ger
million are citizens of to give check-ups. Traditional medicine is not widely practised, except for 34 million head of livestock (which accounts for 20% of the GDP). Most
Russia. Descendants of centuries-old home remedies and some specialised clinics in the capital. of the meat is used for domestic purposes while the bulk of the skins,
Mongolian armies can
wool, cashmere and leather are exported to Russia and China. Cashmere
still be found in Afghani-
stan and on the shores of
ECONOMY is the country’s biggest moneymaker – Mongolia exports 3000 tonnes
Mongolia has done much to erase the legacy of its Soviet-era command of the stuff per year, which is 21% of the world market. Other sectors
the Caspian Sea.
economy. Around 80% of the GDP is now produced by private companies, are catching up, notably mining, and many herders have swapped their
and foreign investment is on the rise, with 40% of investments coming horse whips for gold pans. In some cases Mongolia’s fierce climate has
from China. dictated where people work – when storms decimate livestock, as they did
As it has for centuries, livestock herding remains the backbone of the in 1999–2002, herders are forced to seek alternative employment, often
economy. Around 40% of the population manages to herd the nation’s in illegal mining camps.
 34 T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n 35

More organised and legal forms of mining are also taking shape. It’s pre- POPULATION
The 2006 film Tuya de dicted that within the next two decades the Mongolian economy will grow Of Mongolia’s population (around 2.6 million people), 50% live perma-
hun shi (Tuya’s Marriage) 10 times on the back of its mineral resources, heavily sought after by China. nently in urban areas and around 25% are truly nomadic. Another 25% are Mongolia has the world’s
describes the troubled life GDP is only US$2100 per person but that could be up to US$15,000 by 2021. seminomadic, living in villages in winter and grazing their animals on the lowest population density
of shepherdess Tuya, an While these may seem like pie in the sky figures, the projections are mainly steppes during the rest of the year. With population growth at an all-time at just 1.4 persons per
Inner Mongolian woman based on the expected output of Oyu Tolgoi, which could spit out 450,000 low (having fallen from 2.4% to 1.4% over the past 15 years), the government sq km.
forced to find a new pro- tons of copper annually (4% of global output). offers economic benefits for newborns and newlywed couples.
vider after her husband is Of course, these riches may end up in the pockets of a few robber barons and In recent years the population has shifted from the countryside to
crippled by an explosion. government insiders. Corruption is rife in Mongolia and there seems to be no Ulaanbaatar, as Mongolians search for work opportunities not available in
It’s an Inner Mongolian limit to its extent. Democracy, which has allowed the media and civil society to rural areas. Since 1999, internal migration to the capital has increased by
film directed by Quanan act as watchdogs, has as least prevented the formation of a total kleptocracy. around 13% per year – the city hit the one million mark in 2007.
Wang and winner of the While Mongolians watch and wait for some of the biggest mines to provide The majority (about 86%) of Mongolians are Khalkh Mongolians (khalkh
prestigious Golden Bear returns, the country remains mired in poverty. Unemployment hovers at means ‘shield’). Clan or tribal divisions are not significant social or political
at the Berlin International 30% to 40% although precise figures are difficult to determine as so many issues in modern Mongolia. The other sizable ethnic group, the Kazakhs,
Film Festival. Mongolians work as unregistered drivers or traders. Tourism is another make up about 6% (110,000) of the population and live in western Mongolia,
important sector and now accounts for 18% of the economy – not bad since mainly in Bayan-Ölgii aimag.
it really only functions for three months a year. The remaining 8% of the population are ethnic minority groups. These
Despite the unemployment rate, money still flows around the country and groups are located along the border areas and in the far west, and their num- Mongolians tend to use
few people go hungry. You’ll find most Mongolians live in a healthy, robust bers range from some 47,500 ethnic Buriats who live along the northern bor- just one name but, to
state even if they have been out of work for months or even years, supported der to just 300 Tsaatan, the reindeer people of northern Khövsgöl aimag. differentiate themselves
by strong family networks. One family member with a decent job has the from people with
responsibility to distribute his wealth among siblings. SPORT the same name, they
Relatives working abroad also send remittances – approximately 100,000 Mongolian sports – wrestling, horse racing and archery – are an extension sometimes add their
Mongolians work overseas, about 8% of the workforce. In Ulaanbaatar, gov- of the military training used for centuries by Mongolian clans. father’s name. A recent
ernment salaries are less than US$100 per month while salaries in the private Wrestling is still the national pastime. The Mongolian version is similar government registration
sector can be two or three times higher (sometimes much more). to wrestling found elsewhere, except there are no weight divisions, so the system has encouraged
biggest wrestlers (and they are big!) are often the best. Out on the steppes the use of clan names
matches can go on for hours, but matches for the national Naadam have a as surnames – the most
THE CULT OF THE GREAT KHAAN time limit – after 30 minutes a referee moves the match into something akin popular is Borjigan, the
to ‘penalty kicks’ (the leading wrestler gets better position from the get go). clan of Chinggis Khaan.
In early 2006 Ulaanbaatar unveiled a daring piece of modern architecture – the US$10 million
frontal portage to Government House, an enormous wing of marble columns, arching glass and The match ends only when the first wrestler falls, or when anything other
the pièce de résistance, a glowering bronze statue of Chinggis Khaan. than the soles of the feet or open palms touches the ground.
The grandiose monument is only the latest chapter in a long and storied obsession with the The biggest wrestling tournament is the national Naadam Festival (p96),
khaan we know as Ghengis. Worship of Chinggis began under the reign of his grandson Kublai which has 512 contestants and is held in Ulaanbaatar on 11 and 12 July.
Khaan, who established a sort of Chinggis travelling museum in the Ordos Desert (now Inner Other tournaments are held throughout the year at the Wrestling Palace (Map p64;
Mongolia). Spirit worship of the great khaan has taken place in other parts of Mongolia including x456 443; Peace Ave; admission T1000-5000). Wrestling events are the same elsewhere –
Shankh Khiid (Övörkhangai; p119) and Burkhan Khalduun (Khentii; p172). small matches held during the year and a big one for Naadam.
Mongolia’s second-biggest sport is horse racing. Jockeys – traditionally A Mongolian legend
Chinggis Khaan had been outlawed during communism, a time when the Soviets thought
children between the ages of five and 12 years – race their horses over open recounts that one
Mongolians needed to move forward into a great Socialist future. But since the early 1990s the
countryside rather than around a track. Courses can be either 15km or 30km Amazonian-type female
Mongolians have brought Chinggis back, often into pop culture – a rock band and brewery have
and are both exhausting and dangerous – every year jockeys tumble from entered a wrestling
been named in his honour and you’ll spot Chinggis Khaan T-shirts, coffee mugs and key-chains
their mounts and horses collapse and die from exhaustion at the finish line. competition and thrashed
in souvenir shops. As evidence of his godlike status, one can commonly see pictures of Chinggis
Winning horses are called tümnii ekh, or ‘leader of 10,000’. Riders and her male competitors.
on the family altar, flanking those of Buddhist deities.
spectators rush to comb the sweat off the best horses with a scraper tradition- In order to prevent such
Why all the hype? Chinggis has suffered from 800 years of bad press in the West but to
ally made from a pelican’s beak. The five winning riders must drink some an embarrassing episode
Mongolians he embodies strength, unity and law and order. He introduced a written script in the
special airag (fermented mare milk), which is then often sprinkled on the from happening again,
Mongolian language and preached religious tolerance. Chinggis is the young king who united
riders’ heads and the horses’ backsides. During the Naadam Festival, a song the wrestling jacket was
the warring clans and gave Mongolians a sense of direction, not to mention more wealth than
of empathy is also sung to the two-year-old horse that comes in last. redesigned with an open
the country had seen before or since. This is what postcommunist Mongolia looks for today – a
The third sport of Eriin Gurvan Naadam (Three Manly Sports) is archery, chest, forcing women to
leader in the mould of Chinggis who can rise above confusion and uncertainty.
which is actually performed by men and women alike. Archers use a bent sit on the sidelines.
None of Mongolia’s current crop of politicos has galvanised the nation as Chinggis once
did, but there remains hope for the future; according to a prediction by Nostradamus (in the composite bow made of layered horn, bark and wood. Usually arrows are
16th century), an incarnation of Chinggis Khaan was born in September 1999. While that may made from willow and the feathers are from vultures and other birds of prey.
sound like bad news for the rest of us, the Mongolians, an optimistic lot, look ahead with great After each shot, judges who stand near the target emit a short cry called
expectations. uukhai, and raise their hands in the air to indicate the quality of the shot.
See www.atarn.org for articles on Mongolian archery.
 36 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n 37

According to legend, the sport of polo began when Chinggis Khaan’s

Sumo wrestling has troops batted the severed heads of their enemies across the steppes. Whether IMPORTANT FIGURES & SYMBOLS OF TIBETAN BUDDHISM
grown as a spectator true or not, polo has recently been revived in Mongolia with the help of This brief guide to some of the deities of the Tibetan Buddhist pantheon will allow you to recognise
sport as Mongolian foreign players. It hasn’t quite caught fire yet, but there may be an exhibition a few of the statues you’ll encounter in Mongolia, usually on temple altars. Sanskrit names are
athletes dominate the in summer. Likewise, matches of polo on camelback are organised for some provided as these are most recognisable in the West; Mongolian names are in brackets.
Japanese circuit – all Gobi naadams (games).
tournaments in Japan are Basketball and other Western-style sports are increasing in popularity. There The Characters
broadcast on Mongolian is now a professional basketball league in Ulaanbaatar, and even at the most Sakyamuni The Historical Buddha was born in Lumbini in the 5th century BC in what is now
TV. The best-known remote gers you’ll find a backboard and hoop propped up on the steppe. southern Nepal. He attained enlightenment under a bo (peepul) tree and his teachings set in
Mongolian wrestler is motion the Buddhist faith. Statues of the Buddha include 32 distinctive body marks, including a
Dolgersuren Dagvadorj. RELIGION dot between the eyes and a bump on the top of his blue hair. His right hand touches the earth
His nickname, the Buddhism in the Bhumisparsa Mudra hand gesture, and the left hand holds a begging bowl.
‘Bathtub Brawler’, was The Mongols had limited contact with organised religion before their great
bestowed after a punch- empire of the 13th century. It was Kublai Khaan who first found himself with Maitreya (Maidar) The Future Buddha, Maitreya is passing the life of a bodhisattva (a divine
up with another wrestler a court in which all philosophies of his empire were represented, but it was a being worthy of Nirvana who remains on the human plane to help others achieve enlighten-
while the two bathed Tibetan Buddhist, Phagpa, who wielded the greatest influence on the khaan. ment) and will return to earth in human form 4000 years after the disappearance of Sakyamuni
after a match. In 1578 Altan Khaan, a descendant of Chinggis Khaan, met the Tibetan to take his place as the next earthly Buddha. He is normally seated with his hands by his chest
leader Sonam Gyatso, was converted, and subsequently bestowed on Sonam in the mudra of ‘turning the Wheel of Law’.
Gyatso the title Dalai Lama (dalai means ‘ocean’ in Mongolian). Sonam
Gyatso was named as the third Dalai Lama and his two predecessors were Avalokitesvara (Janraisig) The Bodhisattva of Compassion is either pictured with 11 heads and
named posthumously. 1000 pairs of arms (chogdanjandan janraisig), or in a white, four-armed manifestation (chagsh
Mass conversions occurred under Altan Khaan. As Mongolian males janraisig). The Dalai Lama is considered an incarnation of Avalokitesvara.
were conscripted to monasteries, rather than the army, the centuries of
constant fighting seemed to wane (much to the relief of China, which sub- Tara The Saviour, Tara has 21 different manifestations. She symbolises purity and fertility and
sequently funded more monasteries in Mongolia). This change in national is believed to be able to fulfil wishes. Statues of Tara usually represent Green Tara (Nogoon Dar
philosophy continues today – Mongolia is the world’s only UN-sanctioned Ekh), who is associated with night, or White Tara (Tsagaan Dar Ekh), who is associated with day.
‘nuclear-free nation’. White Tara is the female companion of Avalokitesvara.
Buddhist opposition to needless killing reinforced strict hunting laws
In 1903, when the already set in place by shamanism. Today, Buddhist monks are still influential Four Guardian Kings Comprising Virupaksa (red; holding a snake), Dhitarastra (white; holding
British invaded Tibet, the in convincing local populations to protect their environment and wildlife. a lute), Virudhaka (blue; holding a sword) and Vaishrovana (yellow; sitting on a snow lion), the
13th Dalai Lama fled to Buddhism in Mongolia was nearly destroyed in 1937 when the young kings are mostly seen guarding monastery entrances.
Mongolia and spent three communist government, fearing competition, launched a purge that wiped
years living in Gandan out nearly all of the country’s 700 monasteries. Up to 30,000 monks were The Symbols & Objects
Khiid in Urga (modern- massacred and thousands more sent to Siberian labour camps. Freedom of Prayer Wheel These are filled with up to a mile of prayers and are turned manually by pilgrims
day Ulaanbaatar). religion was only restored in 1990 with the dawn of democracy. to gain merit.
Restoring Buddhism has been no easy task as two generations had been
essentially raised atheist. Most people no longer understand the Buddhist Wheel of Life Drawings of this wheel symbolise the cycle of death and rebirth, held by Yama,
rituals or their meanings but a few still make the effort to visit the monasteries the god of the dead. The six sections of the circle are the six realms of rebirth ruled over by
during prayer sessions. Numbers swell when well-known Buddhist monks gods, titans, hungry ghosts, hell, animals and humans.
from Tibet or India (or even Western countries) visit Mongolia.
As they have for centuries, Mongolians believe that monks have the powers Stupas (suvrag) Originally built to house the cremated relics of the Historical Buddha, they
to heal or altar the course of future events; they will often pay hard-earned have become a powerful symbol of Buddhism. Later stupas also became reliquaries for lamas
money for the reading of appropriate prayers to secure better test scores, and holy men.
Religions of Mongolia, by improved business or marital security.
Walther Heissig, provides
an in-depth look at the Islam that Jesus exists as two separate persons – the man Jesus and the divine son
Buddhist and shamanist In Mongolia today, there is a significant minority of Sunni Muslims, most of God. Historically the religion never caught hold in the Mongol heartland,
faiths as they developed of them ethnic Kazakhs, who live primarily in Bayan-Ölgii. These Kazakhs but that has changed in recent years with an influx of Christian missionaries,
in Mongolia. have connections with Islamic groups in Turkey and several have been on often from obscure fundamentalist sects. The online magazine
a hajj to Mecca. Mongolian authorities are wary of these missionaries, who sometimes come www.mongoliatoday.com
to the country under the pretext of teaching English. In Ulaanbaatar, there are has several interesting
Christianity now more than 50 non-Buddhist places of worship. Mormons, the most rec- articles on Mongolian
Nestorian Christianity was part of the Mongol empire long before the ognisable, have built modern churches in Ulaanbaatar, Nalaikh, Choibalsan, culture, religion, society
Western missionaries arrived. The Nestorians followed the doctrine of Erdenet and other cities. The Catholics, also here in large numbers, have and ethnography.
Nestorious (358–451), patriarch of Constantinople (428–31), who proclaimed constructed an enormous church on the eastern side of Ulaanbaatar.
 38 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 39

Shamanism and Star and his famous story, Three Fateful Hills, which was adapted into
Ovoos, the large piles of Whether shamanism is a religion is open to debate (there is no divine an opera that is still performed in Ulaanbaatar.
rocks found on mountain being or book of teachings), but it is a form of mysticism practised by some The most prolific poet to look out for is Danzan Ravjaa (1803–56), a monk
passes, are repositories of Mongolians in the north, including the Tsaatan, Darkhad, Uriankhai and from the Gobi Desert known for his poems of wine and love. A collection
offerings for local spirits. Buriats. It was the dominant belief system of Chinggis Khaan and the Mongol of his poems, Perfect Qualities, translated by Simon Wickham-Smith can
Upon arriving at an ovoo, hordes but has now been pushed to the cultural fringes. be found in Ulaanbaatar.
walk around it clockwise Shamanism is based around the shaman – called a bo if a man or udgan The best-known contemporary writer is Ochirbatyn Dashbalbar, a nation- The US$30 million
three times, toss an offer- if a woman – who has special medical and religious powers. If a shaman’s alist, politician and xenophobe who died under mysterious circumstances Japanese blockbuster
ing onto the pile (another powers are inherited, it is known as udmyn; if the powers become apparent in 2000. Aoki Okami: chi hate umi
rock should suffice) and after a sudden period of sickness and apparitions it is known as zlain. tsukiru made (Genghis
make a wish. One of a shaman’s main functions is to cure any sickness caused by the Cinema Khan: To the Ends of
soul straying, and to accompany the soul of a dead person to the other world. During communism, Mongolia had a vibrant film industry led by Moscow- Earth and Sea), was
Shamans act as intermediaries between the human and spirit worlds, and trained directors who excelled at socialist realism. MongolKino’s most famed filmed on location in
communicate with spirits during trances, which can last up to six hours. directors, L Vangad and D Jigjid, directed many communist-era films, includ- Mongolia and released
Shamanist beliefs have done much to shape Mongolian culture and social ing Serelt (Awakening), one of the all-time classics. This anti-Buddhist film in 2007. The making of
Around 80% of Mongo- practices. The lack of infrastructure during the course of Mongolia’s history describes the life and times of a young Russian nurse sent to Mongolia to set the film required some
lians claim to be Buddhist can be traced to shamanic rules on maintaining a balance with nature, ie up a hospital in a rural area. It starred Dorjpalam, the mother of Democratic 30,000 local extras to don
of the Mahayana variety, not digging holes or tearing the land. Even today when nomads move their leader Sanjaasurengiin Zorig (p74). Other classic films that still bring a tear Mongol warrior garb for
as practised in Tibet. camps they fill in any holes created by horse posts. to the Mongolian eye are Tungalag Tamir (directed by Ravjagiin Dorjpalam) the battle scenes.
Some 5% follow Islam Sky worship is another integral part of shamanism and you’ll see and Sükhbaatar (directed by IE Heifits).
(mainly Kazakhs living Mongolians leaving blue scarves (representing the sky) on ovoos. Sky The biggest star of the new generation is Byambasuren Davaa, whose
in Bayan-Ölgii aimag). gods are likewise honoured by flicking droplets of vodka in the air before touching tale The Weeping Camel went from obscurity to award winner in
Approximately 5% of drinking. 2004. Her second effort, Cave of the Yellow Dog, describes the life of a nomad
Mongolians claim to be family and the changing life on the steppes.
Christians, Mongolia’s ARTS Mongolians are avid movie watchers. The best place to catch a film
fastest-growing religion, From prehistoric oral epics to the latest movie from MongolKino film studios is the three-screen multiplex Tengis (p93), which is next to Liberty Sq The Weeping Camel
and around 10% are in Ulaanbaatar, the many arts of Mongolia convey the flavour of nomadic life in Ulaanbaatar. (2004), directed by
atheist (the creed of the and the spirit of the land. Influenced by Tibet, China and Russia, Mongolia Byambasuren Davaa and
former communist state). has nonetheless developed unique forms of music, dance, costume, painting, Music Luigi Falomi, is a moving
sculpture, drama, film, handicrafts, carpets and textiles. MODERN documentary about a
There are several art and music festivals every year, one of the biggest Western music, mainly alternative rock and hip-hop, is popular with young camel that has rejected
being the Roaring Hooves Music Festival (www.roaringhooves.com). In late October Mongolians in Ulaanbaatar, but they also enjoy listening to local groups, who its offspring and how
you could check out the Altan Namar (Golden Autumn) festival, usually sing in the Mongolian language but have definite Western influences. These the family that owns the
held at the circus. include alterative rockers The Lemons and Nisvanis, and old-school pop camels attempts to rec-
For more information on the arts in Mongolia, contact the Arts Council bands Hurd and Haranga. Ballad singers are also popular, including female oncile their differences.
(x011-319 015; www.artscouncil.mn) in Ulaanbaatar. vocalists Otgoo, Ariunaa and Saraa. Recent years have seen a profusion of
one-hit-wonder boy bands and hip-hop acts; the latest big acts are Lumino
Literature & Poetry and Tatar. Some bands have taken to incorporating traditional instruments
The heroic epics of the Mongols were all first committed to writing more than in their music; one such band, Legend, performs frequently at Ulaanbaatar’s Chinggis Blues (1999),
750 years ago. Later, Mongolia developed an enormous amount of Buddhist History Club (p93). directed by Roko and
literature. Surprisingly, the National Library of Mongolia in Ulaanbaatar Adrian Belic, traces the
holds the world’s largest single collection of Buddhist sutras (almost all of it TRADITIONAL inspirational journey of
confiscated during the 1937 purges). Get an urbanised Mongolian into the countryside, and they will probably a blind American blues
Only recently have scholars translated into English the most important text sing and tell you it is the beauty of the countryside that created the song singer from San Francisco
of all – Mongol-un nigucha tobchiyan (The Secret History of the Mongols). on their lips. Mongolians sing to their animals: there are lullabies to coax to Tuva to learn the
The website www.ulaan The text was lost for centuries until a Chinese copy was discovered in 1866 by sheep to suckle their lambs; songs to order a horse forward, make it stop secrets of khöömii (throat
baatar.net has links to the implausibly named Archimandrite Palladius, a Russian scholar and dip- or come closer; and croons to control a goat, milk a cow or imitate a singing).
the Mongolian National lomat then resident in Beijing. Intriguing structural comparisons have been camel’s cry.
Modern Art Gallery (p76); made between The Secret History of the Mongols and the Bible, prompting Traditional music involves a wide range of instruments and uses for the
click on Mongol Arts and theories that the Mongolian author was strongly influenced by the teachings human voice found almost nowhere else. Khöömii (throat singing) found
then Museums. of Nestorian Christianity. in Mongolia and neighbouring Tuva, is an eerie sound that involves the
While fiction has never enjoyed much popularity, Mongolians have always simultaneous production of multiple notes. See the boxed text (p236) for
been fond of poetry. Dashdorjiin Natsagdorj (1906–37), Mongolia’s best- more details.
known modern poet and playwright, is regarded as the founder of Mongolian Another unique traditional singing style is urtyn duu. Sometimes re-
literature. His works include the dramatic nationalist poems My Native Land ferred to as ‘long songs’ because of the long trills, not because they are long
 © Lonely Planet Publications
40 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 41

songs (though some epics are up to 20,000 verses long), urtyn duu involves Mongolian scroll paintings generally mirror the Tibetan variety, but you
extraordinarily complicated, drawn-out vocal sounds, which relate traditional can notice distinctive regional features such as the introduction of camels,
stories about love and the countryside. The late Norovbanzad is Mongolia’s sheep and yaks in the background.
most famous long-song diva. Appliqué scroll paintings, made from Chinese silks, were popular at the
Several souvenir shops in Ulaanbaatar, including the State Department turn of the 20th century. There are some fine examples in the Zanabazar
Store, sell recordings of traditional music. Anyone who takes a long-distance Museum of Fine Arts (p69). The website www.mon
trip on public transport will hear impromptu Mongolian folk songs – nor- Gandan Khiid’s master artist, Purevbat, has revived Buddhist art since golart.mn explores the
mally when the transport breaks down. the late 1990s, after receiving training from masters in India and Nepal. culture of Mongolia, with
Purevbat has displayed his art at exhibitions overseas but is currently pages on music, art,
Architecture concentrating his efforts on Mongolia, in particular the reconstruction of theatre, dance, film and
Constructing permanent buildings is contradictory to a nomadic society. Demchigiin Khiid (p207) in Ömnögov. religion.
Ulaanbaatar, largely a Soviet creation, is filled with Brezhnev-era apartment
blocks and Stalinist government buildings. The only constructions that
MODERN ART
can be considered old are Buddhist temples, which were largely designed
Mongolian painting in the 20th century was dominated by socialist re-
by Chinese and Tibetan architects between the 17th and 20th centuries.
alism but has recently spread to embrace abstract styles. There is a vi-
Traditional Mongolian architecture consists solely of the ger, a well-designed
brant modern-art scene in Ulaanbaatar. A couple of artists to look out
home for nomadic use.
for are M Erdenebayar and his wife S Munkhjin; he paints abstract
Gers can be erected in about an hour and are easily packed up and moved.
scenes of horses and she paints the female figure. In galleries you’ll also
The circular shape and low roof are well suited to deflect wind. The door
spot work by S Saransatsralt whose conceptual paintings are occasion-
always faces south, providing protection against the predominantly northern
ally provocative. Ancient beliefs and customs are often incorporated in
winds. The felt used to make the ger is traditionally made by the herders
the work of S Tugs-Oyun. More pieces can be found by following the
themselves, often in late summer, from the wool from their own flocks. At
links to Mongolian Masterpieces at www.khanbank.com and clicking on
some ger camps, tourists sites and even the back of bank notes you might
Community Collections. In Ulaanbaatar you can see contemporary pieces
find gers set on giant wooden carts. Your guide may proudly explain that
at the Mongolian Artists’ Exhibition Hall (p76) diagonally opposite the
this was how the khaans moved around during the imperial age, but recent
post office.
findings have proven this to be a historical myth. Despite the great desire for
more modern apartments, demand for new gers also remains high (thanks
to expanding ger suburbs in Ulaanbaatar) and the average price for a ger has Theatre & Dance
doubled in recent years from US$300 to US$600 or more. The extraordinarily talented Danzan Ravjaa (see p201) is the patron saint The website www.uma
of modern Mongolian theatre. .mn has links to
Painting & Sculpture In the 1820s Ravjaa organised a theatre group at Khamaryn Khiid (see virtually every member
TRADITIONAL PAINTING & SCULPTURE p202), based on the Chinese-style operas and Tibetan dramas he had wit- of Ulaanbaatar’s artistic
Much of Mongolian traditional art is religious in nature and closely linked nessed while studying in Inner Mongolia. His major achievement was the community.
to Tibetan art. Traditional sculpture and scroll painting follows strict rules production of Saran Khöökhöö Namtar (Story of the Moon Cuckoo), an
One of the most enduring of subject, colour and proportion, leaving little room for personal expres- old Tibetan play that describes the troubled life of a prince betrayed by his
images of communism sion. Tragically, most early examples of Mongolian art were destroyed best friend. The theatre group performed the play at various monasteries
was a socialist-realism during the communist regime. in the Gobi and it continued to be performed after the death of Danzan
painting of a young, Mongolia’s best-known painter is Balduugiyn Sharav (1869–1939). He Ravjaa until the 1920s.
wide-eyed Sükhbaatar spent his childhood in a monastery and later travelled all around the coun- The Russians brought European theatre and ballet to Mongolia in the
meeting a lecturing try. His most famous painting is One Day in Mongolia, which you can see 1920s, and every village built during the Soviet period included a requisite
Lenin. You may even in the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts (p69). It is a zurag (painting), a drama theatre. Ballet became a popular form of dance, as did the waltz,
see a copy of it in some classic work of Mongolian landscape storytelling, crowded with intricate although Mongolia does have a traditional form of dance (bujig) that in-
offices. While many still sketches depicting just about every aspect of the Mongolian life, from felt- volves much leaping and bounding by the performers. Performances of
assume the incident making to dung-collecting. theatre, opera and ballet are frequently held at Ulaanbaatar’s Opera House
occurred, contemporary Zanabazar was a revered sculptor, politician, religious teacher, diplomat (p92) and Drama Theatre (p92) but very rarely at theatres outside the
historians now disregard and Living Buddha. Many Mongolians refer to the time of Zanabazar’s life capital. You’ll need to personally visit the theatres in aimag capitals and
the story as mythical as Mongolia’s Renaissance period. His most enduring legacy is the sensuous ask around for what’s on, as advertising is almost nonexistent.
propaganda. statues of the incarnation of compassion, the deity Tara. Some of Zanabazar’s
bronze sculptures and paintings can be seen today in Ulaanbaatar’s Gandan
Khiid (p73), the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts (p69) and the Winter
Palace of Bogd Khaan (p75). For more on the man, see p142.
Religious scroll paintings (thangka) grace the walls of monasteries all
over the country. They are tools of meditation, used by practitioners to
visualise themselves developing the enlightened qualities of the deities
depicted.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
42 lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks 43

The other main highlight of Mongolian cuisine is khorkhog, made by

Food & Drink

Traveller Dan Bennett
placing hot stones from an open fire into a pot or urn with chopped mutton,
describes his adventures
some water and sometimes vodka. The container is then sealed and left on
dining with a Mongolian
the fire. When eating this meal, it is customary to pass the hot, greasy rocks
family, and the chal-
The culinary masters of Mongolia’s barren steppes have always put more from hand to hand, as this is thought to be good for your health.
lenges of eating sheep
stock in survival than taste. Mongolian food is therefore a hearty, if some- Borts (dried meat) is very popular among Mongolians, and many jeep
head, at www.fotuva
what bland, array of meat and dairy products. Out in the countryside, drivers like to take it on long-distance trips to add to soups.
.org/travel/potato.html.
green vegetables are often equated with animal fodder and spices may be Mongolians don’t concern themselves much with breakfast; a bowl of hot
an alien concept. süütei tsai (milk tea) and some pieces of bortzig (fried unleavened bread)
The reasons for this stem from the constraints of a nomadic lifestyle. will usually suffice. Desserts are equally uncommon, although süütei budaa,
Nomads cannot reasonably transport an oven, and so are prevented from made from rice, sugar and milk, is an occasional treat.
producing baked goods such as bread. Nor can nomads plant, tend to or In summer, you can subsist as the Mongols do on tsagaan idee (dairy
harvest fruits, vegetables, spices or grains. They can, however, eat the food products; literally ‘white foods’): yogurt, milk, fresh cream, cheese and
that their livestock produces. fermented milk drinks.
Mongolian food is seasonal. In the summer months, when animals provide Süü (milk) may be cow, sheep or goat milk and the tarag (yogurt) is always
milk, dairy products become the staple food. Meat (and copious amounts delicious. Khoormog is yogurt made from camel milk. When you visit a ger
Imperial Mongolian of fat) takes over in winter, supplemented with flour (in some form) and you will be offered dairy snacks such as aaruul (dried milk curds), which
Cooking: Recipes from the potatoes or rice if these are available. are as hard as a rock and often about as tasty. You may also be served a very
Kingdoms of Ghengis Khan Flour and tea were only introduced into the Mongolian staples after the sharp, soft, fermented cheese called aarts.
(2001), by Marc Cramer, Mongols established trade links with China. The Chinese have been par-
describes a variety of ticularly influential in Inner Mongolia (now in China), where the mixing of DRINKS It is customary to flick
recipes from Mongolia, cuisines resulted in ‘Mongolian barbecue’, or ‘Mongolian hotpot’. Although Nonalcoholic Drinks spoonfuls of milk in the
China, Central Asia and unheard of in most of Mongolia, the dish has recently found its way into a Mongolians are big tea drinkers and will almost never start a meal until they’ve direction of departing
other lands that were few restaurants geared towards tourists. had a cup of tea first, as it aids digestion. However, Mongolian tea (tsai in travellers. This goes for
once part of the Mongol Menus have been expanding over the past decade thanks to the government- Mongolian; shay in Kazakh) tends to be of the lowest quality. In fact, it’s mostly people travelling by
empire. Many recipes sponsored ‘Green Revolution’, which allows urbanites to grow vegetables in ‘tea waste’: stems and rejected leaves that are processed into a ‘brick’. horse, car, train or plane.
are from the author’s small, private garden plots. (Most vegetables sold in markets come from China.) Süütei tsai, a classic Mongolian drink, is milk tea with salt. The taste varies
grandfather, who worked Increased trade has brought in packaged and processed food products, as well by region; in Bayan-Ölgii you may even get a dollop of butter in your tea. If
as a chef in Siberia. as international restaurants; the vast array of high quality, foreign-owned you can’t get used to the salty brew, try asking for khar tsai (black tea), which
restaurants in Ulaanbaatar comes as a pleasant surprise to visitors expecting is like European tea, with sugar and no milk. (The word ‘Lipton’ is often
a mostly muttonish diet. understood and used in restaurants as an alternative to black tea.)
STAPLES & SPECIALTIES
Almost any Mongolian dish can be created with meat, rice, flour and pota- TASTY TRAVEL
toes. Most meals consist of talkh (bread) in the towns and cities and bortzig
One taste of fresh öröm (sometimes called üürag) and you’ll soon find yourself scraping away at
(fried unleavened bread) in the gers, and the uncomplicated shölte khool
the bottom of the bowl. This rich, sweet-tasting cream is made by warming fresh cow milk in a
(literally, soup with food) – a meal involving hot broth, pasta slivers, boiled
pot and then letting it sit under a cover for one day. Yak milk (which contains twice as much fat
mutton and a few potato chunks.
as cow milk) will make an even sweeter cream. Another excellent treat, available in summer, is
Buuz (steamed mutton dumplings) and khuushuur (fried mutton pan-
Mongolian blueberry jam. Most regions produce a sour version but the blueberries from around
cakes) are two of the most popular menu options you’ll find in restaurants.
Khövsgöl Nuur are as sweet and tasty as you’ll find anywhere.
Buuz, similar to Chinese baoza or Tibetan momo, are steamed pasta shells
The well-researched filled with mutton and sometimes slivers of onion or garlic. Miniature
www.mongolfood.info
We Dare You
buuz, known as bansh, are usually dunked in milk tea. Khuushuur are best
Got a hankerin’ for blowtorched rodent? Pop into a ger and ask around for some boodog, the
includes notes on Mongo- if prepared in the form of small meat envelopes, but are less tasty if squashed
authentic Mongolian barbeque. This summer delight first involves pulling the innards out of the
lian cuisine, plus cooking into a pancake.
neck of a goat or marmot. The carcass is then stuffed full of scalding rocks and the neck cinched
techniques and recipes Other dishes include tsuivan, lightly steamed flour slices with meat, and
up with wire. The bloated animal is then thrown upon a fire (or blowtorched) to burn the fur
to dispel the myth that khuurag (fried food), which can be prepared with buudatei khuurag (rice)
off the outside while the meat is cooked from within. The finished product vaguely resembles
Mongolian menus stop at or nogotei khuurag (vegetables).
a balloon with paws.
‘boiled mutton’. The classic Mongolian dinner staple, and the one most dreaded by foreign-
Like most things involving a blowtorch, preparing boodog is true men’s work. Furthering the
ers, is referred to simply as ‘makh’ (meat) and consists of boiled sheep bits
adventure, it’s worth noting that the bubonic plague, or Black Death as it was known to medieval
(bones, fat, indiscernible organs and the head) with some sliced potato, served
Europe, can be passed by handling marmot skins. Most cases occur in August and September.
in a plastic bucket. Utensils include a buck knife and your fingers. The head
Other regional delicacies include kazy (salted horse-meat sausages), prepared by Kazakhs in
is considered a delicacy. If you’re having trouble identifying what part of the
Bayan-Ölgii aimag. Gobi people occasionally eat camel meat; the cut might be a bit gamey as it
sheep you’re munching on, just ask your host. This is still the most common
is the older camels that are usually killed for their meat.
food in rural areas, but rarely served in an urban household.
 44 FOOD & DRINK •• Celebrations lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 45

Alcoholic Drinks guanz, a good option for budget travellers or people in a hurry, will some-
Mongolians can drink you under the table if you challenge them. There is times masquerade under more alluring names, including tsainii gazar (tea
much social pressure to drink, especially on males – those who refuse to house). Some of the ones on main streets now stay open 24 hours, but the Scientists claim that
drink arkhi (vodka) are considered wimps. The Russians can be thanked for usual hours are 10am to 7pm. drinking a few cups of
Mongolia’s major brew-
this attitude, which started in the 1970s. Mongolian women prefer to drink Restaurants, usually open 10am to 10pm daily, are nearly always more airag (fermented mare
ing labels include APU
beer more than vodka. Western women will be gently encouraged to drink hygienic than guanz and therefore a good choice for children and families. milk) on a consistent
(which produces Mongol-
but it’s unlikely to be forced on them. Some stay open to midnight but the kitchen will close by 10pm. basis can improve
brand beer), Chinggis
Locally produced beer labels such as Mongol, Chinggis and Khan Brau You will probably be assigned an overly attentive waiter or waitress health, clear the skin and
Beer and Khan Brau. In
are growing in popularity as most young people consider it trendier to who will polish your silverware to perfection and pour your drinks. In sharpen the eyesight.
2007 Tiger Beer opened a
drink beer rather than go blind on the hard stuff preferred by their parents. Ulaanbaatar, many restaurants – especially the good ones – will be busy
US$20 million brewery in
Popular vodkas include the very smooth Chinggis black label which costs and often full between about 1pm and 2pm. It pays to get a table before
east Ulaanbaatar.
just US$8 a bottle. 12.30pm to beat the rush.
A chunk of salt inside
While it may not seem obvious at first, every countryside ger doubles as a Menus are usually in Cyrillic but use the decoder on p46 and point to
your buuz during Tsagaan
tiny brewery or distillery. One corner of the ger usually contains a tall, thin what you want. Listed menu items are often not available (baikhgui means
Sar means safety and
jug with a plunger that is used for fermenting mare milk. The drink, known ‘we don’t have any’) so you may need to make a few attempts.
protection. If too much
as airag or koumiss, has an alcohol content of about 3%. Meals prices range from US$1 to US$3 for a basic meal to US$5 to US$8
flour is used when pre-
Although you aren’t likely to get drunk from airag alone, many Mongolians for something at a Western-style restaurant. At some of the best places you
paring the dumplings and
distil it further to produce shimiin arkhi, which boosts the alcohol content may end up spending US$15 to US$20 or more, but this is rare. A value-
there are meat leftovers,
to around 12%. Go easy on the airag from the start or your guts will pay added tax (VAT) will be added to your bill. Tipping is not required but
it’s a sign that the family
for it later. is appreciated.
will have enough clothing
in the year ahead.
CELEBRATIONS Quick Eats
Tsagaan Sar, the Mongolian New Year, is a festival for a new beginning. The concept of the street café is new in Mongolia and many Mongolians feel
Everything about the holiday is symbolic of happiness, joy and prosperity in awkward about eating on the pavement where, they claim, car exhaust and
Mongolia Expat magazine the coming year, and it is food that represents many of these rites. dust can pollute their meal. Likewise, Mongolians don’t eat while on the go,
has an article describing Mongolians are an optimistic lot – a full belly during Tsagaan Sar is said with the exception of ice cream.
the different types of to represent prosperity in the year ahead; buuz (steamed mutton dump- Some Mongolians, however, have warmed to the idea of shashlik (grilled
Mongolian vodka. Go to lings) in their thousands are therefore prepared and consumed during the meat kebabs). This delicious snack, served with bread and slices of onion and
www.mongoliaexpat holiday. Likewise, the central meal of the holiday must be the biggest sheep cucumber, is usually prepared by expat Uzbeks, but only in summer. While
.com and download the a family can afford to buy; pride is at stake over how much fat will appear they may look very tempting, avoid the more itinerant-looking shashlik
Naadam Festival issue on the table. sellers as their meat is often low grade or old.
from the archives. The buuz itself carries one of the most important symbols of the holiday –
one dumpling will hide a special silver coin that represents wealth to the VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
lucky individual who finds it (watch your teeth!). Mongolia is a difficult, but not impossible, place for vegetarians. If you don’t
During Tsagaan Sar, food even plays a role in the decoration, as the cen- eat meat, you can get by in Ulaanbaatar, but in the countryside you will
trepiece is made from layers of large biscuits called ul boov. Young people need to take your own supplements and preferably a petrol stove. Vegetables
stack three layers of biscuits, middle-aged folk five layers and grandparents other than potatoes, carrots and onions are rare, relatively expensive and
seven layers. Littering the table are chocolates and boiled sweets, decorations usually pickled in jars, so the best way for vegetarians to get protein is from
and the sheep itself, representing wealth in the year ahead. the wide range of dairy products. In aimag capitals you can patch together
Mongolians rarely need encouragement to drink or eat but birthdays a meal by poking around the shops. In villages you should be able to track William of Rubruck’s
are another time to celebrate. In cities these are usually held at restaurants. down instant noodles and hot water. Hygiene can be an issue so it’s best to description of 13th-
Mongolians also have a special party for three-year-olds, whose heads are boil or fry your vegetables. century Mongolian
Each year Mongolians shorn as part of the festivities. Vegans will either have to be completely self-sufficient, or be prepared to cuisine is at http://depts
consume 26L of alcohol modify their lifestyle for a while. .washington.edu/silkroad
per person. Of that, just WHERE TO EAT & DRINK (search for ‘Rubruck
0.9L is beer. The most basic Mongolian eatery is the ubiquitous guanz (Гуанз), or can- HABITS & CUSTOMS Mongolia’). Based on his
teen. Guanz are usually found in buildings, gers or even in train wagons, While traditions and customs do surround the dinner table, Mongolian meals writings, it would seem
in aimag capitals, a few sums, all over Ulaanbaatar and along major roads are generally casual affairs and there is little need to be overly concerned the Mongols have been
where there is some traffic. They usually offer soup, süütei tsai and either about offending your hosts. partial to a drink for the
buuz or khuushuur. In a ger in the countryside, traditional meals such as boiled mutton last 750 years.
In the countryside, the ger guanz is a great way to see the interior of a ger do not require silverware or even plates; just trawl around the bucket of
and meet a family, without the lengthy stops and traditions expected with bones until a slab catches your fancy. Eat with your fingers and try to
normal visits. These are scattered along main roads. nibble off as much meat and fat as possible; Mongolians can pick a bone
In the countryside most guanz seem to close for dinner (and often lunch clean and consider leftovers to be wasteful. There’ll be a buck knife to slice
as well). In reality, opening hours are often at the whim of staff. The city off larger chunks. A common rag will appear at the end of the meal for
 © Lonely Planet Publications
46 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 47

Food Glossary
DOS AND DON’TS AT THE TABLE airag айраг fermented mare milk
aaruul ааруул dried curds
Do baitsaani zuush байцааны зууш cabbage salad
„ Cut food towards your body, not away. banshtai shöl банштай шөл dumpling soup
„ Accept food and drink with your right hand; use the left only to support your right elbow if
banshtai tsai банштай цай dumplings in tea
the food is heavy. bifshteks бифштекс patty
boodog боодог meat roasted from the inside with hot stones
„ Drink tea immediately after receiving it; don’t put it on the table until you have tried some. budaatai будаатай with rice
„ Take at least a sip, or a nibble, of the delicacies offered even if they don’t please you. budaatai khuurag будаатай хуураг meat with rice
„ Hold a cup by the bottom, and not by the top rim.
buuz бууз steamed mutton dumplings
guriltai shöl ґурилтай шөл handmade noodle soup
„ Cover your mouth when you are using a toothpick. goimontoi shöl гоймонтой шөл noodle soup
khoniny makh хонины мах mutton
Don’t khool хоол food
„ Point a knife at anyone; when passing the knife, offer the handle. khoormog хоормог camel yogurt
„ Get up in the middle of a meal and walk outside; wait until everyone is finished. khorkhog хорхог mutton, water and hot stones cooked in a pot
khuurag хуураг fried food
„ Cross your legs or stick your feet out in front of you when eating; keep your legs together if
khuushuur хуушуур fried meat pancake
seated or folded under you if on the floor.
luuvangiin zuush луувангийн зууш carrot salad
makh мах meat
you to wipe off the grease (have a bandana ready if you are fussy about niislel salad нийслэл салат potato salad
hygiene). nogoon salad ногоон салат vegetable salad
Most other meals in the rest of Mongolia are eaten with bowls, knives, nogootoi ногоотой with vegetables
forks and spoons. Chopsticks are only used at Chinese restaurants öröm өрөм cream
Because of his failing rashaan us рашаан ус mineral water
in Ulaanbaatar.
health, the advisors of shar airag шар айраг beer
It is always polite to bring something to contribute to the meal; drinks
Ögedei Khaan (a son of sharsan öndög шарсан өндөг fried egg
are easiest, or in the countryside you could offer a bag of rice or sweets for
Chinggis) suggested that sharsan takhia шарсан тахиа fried chicken
desert. ‘Bon appétit’ in Mongolian is saikhan khool loorai.
he halve the number of shnitsel шницель schnitzel
Meals are occasionally interrupted for a round of vodka. Before taking a
cups of alcohol he drank shöl шөл soup
swig, a short ritual is employed to honour the sky gods and the four cardinal
per day. Ögedei readily süü сүү milk
directions. There is no one way of doing this, but it usually involves dipping
agreed, then promptly süütei budaa сүүтэй будаа milk with rice
the left ring finger into the vodka and flicking into the air four times before
ordered that his cups be süütei tsai сүүтэй цай Mongolian milk tea
wiping your finger across your forehead.
doubled in size. talkh талх bread
The woman of the household may offer you a variety of small food items.
Try to taste everything you have been offered. An empty bowl is a sign to tömstei төмстэй with potato
the host that you want more food. If you are full, just leave a little bit at the tsai цай tea
bottom of the bowl. If you are eating with Kazakhs, covering the bowl with tsagaanidee цагаан-идээ white food (dairy)
your right hand means you are done. tsötsgii цөцгий sour cream
tsuivan цуйван fried slices of dough with meat
EAT YOUR WORDS zagas загас fish
Mongolian language is a scrambled-up soup of lispy vowels and throaty zaidas/sosisk зайдас/сосик sausage
consonants. Get behind the cuisine scene by getting to know the language.
The tradition of dipping
For pronunciation guidelines, see p293.
the ring finger into vodka
began centuries ago;
if the silver ring on the
Useful Phrases in Mongolian
I don’t eat meat. bi makh id-deggui Би мах иддэггүй
finger changed colour
Can I have a menu bi khool·nii tses avch Би хоолны цэс авч
after being submerged
please? bo·lokh uu болох уу?
it meant that the vodka
How much is it? e·ne ya·mar ü·ne·tei ve Энэ ямар үнэтэй вэ?
was poisoned.
What food do you have ö·nöö·dör ya·mar khool Өнөөдөр ямар хоол
today? baina ve байна вэ?
When will the food be khool khe·zee be·len Хоол хэзээ бэлэн
ready? bo·lokh ve болох вэ?
 © Lonely Planet Publications
48 lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 49

largest in terms of water volume, the longest river is the Kherlen Gol in

Environment eastern Mongolia.

Just to the northeast of Ulaanbaatar is the Khentii Nuruu, the highest
mountain range in eastern Mongolia and by far the most accessible to hikers.
Mongolia is the sort of country that naturalists dream about. With the It’s a heavily forested region with meandering rivers and impressive peaks,
world’s lowest population density, huge tracts of virgin landscape, minimal the highest being Asralt Khairkhan Uul (2800m). The range provides a major
infrastructure, varied ecosystems and abundant wildlife, Mongolia is right- watershed between the Arctic and Pacific oceans.
fully considered to hold the last bastion of unspoiled land in Asia. Mongolia’s Mongolia has numerous saltwater and freshwater lakes, which are great
nomadic past, which did not require cities or infrastructure, along with for camping, bird-watching, hiking, swimming and fishing. The largest is
Shamanic prohibitions against defiling the earth, have for centuries protected the low-lying, saltwater Uvs Nuur, but the most popular is the magnificent
the country from overdevelopment. Khövsgöl Nuur, the second-oldest lake in the world, which contains 65% of
Traditional beliefs, however, are always at odds with modern economics. Mongolia’s (and 2% of the world’s) fresh water.
The environmental situation started going downhill when the Soviets intro- Other geological and geographical features include caves (some with an-
duced mining, railways, factories and power plants, but compared with the cient rock paintings), dormant volcanoes, hot and cold mineral springs, the
disastrous environmental record evoked in China or neighbouring Central Orkhon Khürkhree (Orkhon Waterfall), Great Lakes Depression in western
Asian countries such as Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, Mongolia emerged from Mongolia and Darkhad Depression west of Khövsgöl Nuur.
this period relatively unscathed. The new threat is capitalism. With no more
subsidies coming from the USSR, Mongolia has spent nearly two decades WILDLIFE
looking for ways to earn revenue, and the easiest solution has been the sale In Mongolia, the distinction between domestic and wild (or untamed) Roy Chapman Andrews
of its resources. Consequently, the wildlife and landscape are now being animals is often blurry. Wild and domesticated horses and camels mingle wrote several excellent
degraded at an alarming rate, but there is hope among conservationists that on the steppes with wild asses and herds of wild gazelle. In the mountains books on Mongolia’s
ecotourism will provide a new direction for government fiscal policy. there are enormous (and horned) wild argali sheep and domesticated yaks flora and fauna following
along with wild moose, musk deer and roe deer. Reindeer herds are basically his research expeditions
THE LAND untamed, but strangely enough they can be ridden and are known to return across the country in the
Conservation Ink (www Mongolia is a huge landlocked country. At 1,566,500 sq km in area, it’s to the same tent each night for a salt-lick. early 1920s. Look out for
.conservationink.org) about three times the size of France, over twice the size of Texas and almost his classic titles Across
produces maps and as large as Queensland in Australia. Apart from the period of Mongol con- Mongolian Plains and On
Animals
postcards dedicated quest under Chinggis Khaan and Kublai Khaan, Mongolia was until the 20th the Trail of Ancient Man.
Wildlife flourishes in Mongolia despite a number of impediments: an extreme
to Mongolia’s national century about twice its present size. A large chunk of Siberia was once part climate, the nomadic fondness for hunting, the communist persecution of
parks. The website of Mongolia but is now securely controlled by Russia, and Inner Mongolia Buddhists who had set aside areas as animal sanctuaries and a penniless
contains links, informa- is now firmly part of China. government that lacks the political will to police nature-protection laws.
tion and beautiful The southern third of Mongolia is dominated by the Gobi Desert, which Your chances of seeing some form of wildlife are good, though the closest
photography. stretches into China. Only the southern sliver of the Gobi is ‘Lawrence of
Arabia–type desert’ with cliffs and sand dunes. The rest is desert steppe and has
sufficient grass to support scattered herds of sheep, goats and camels. There THE GREAT ZUD
are also areas of desert steppe in low-lying parts of western Mongolia.
The winters of 1999–2000 to 2001–02 were the coldest and longest in living memory. They
Much of the rest of Mongolia is covered by grasslands. Stretching over
were classed as zud, a Mongolian word that can mean any condition that stops livestock getting
about 20% of the country, these steppes are home to vast numbers of gazelle,
to grass; in this case heavy snowfall and an impenetrable ice cover. Unusually early snowfalls
birdlife and livestock. The central, northern and western aimags (provinces),
compounded an earlier summer drought and rodent infestation, which left animals emaciated
amounting to about 25% of Mongolia, are classed as mountain forest steppe.
Mongolia’s Wild Heritage and pastures degraded before winter even hit. Other causes for the zud trace back 10 years;
Home to gazelle and saiga antelope, they have relatively large numbers of
(1999), by Christopher the move towards capitalism promoted the boom in livestock that caused overgrazing, leaving
people and livestock.
Finch, was written in pastures tired and depleted. After three bad winters the livestock population plummeted from
Mongolia is also one of the highest countries in the world, with an aver-
collaboration with the 33 million to 24 million.
age elevation of 1580m. In the far west are Mongolia’s highest mountains,
Mongolian Ministry of In the worst-hit areas of Dundgov, Bayankhongor, Arkhangai and Övörkhangai, herders lost a
the Mongol Altai Nuruu, which are permanently snowcapped. The highest
Nature & Environment. quarter to half of their livestock (their only form of income, food, fuel, security – almost every-
peak, glaciated Tavan Bogd Uul (4374m), towers over Mongolia, Russia
This outstanding book thing, in fact). The disaster was equal to the great zud of 1944, when 7.5 million livestock were
and China. Between the peaks are stark but beautiful deserts where rain
contains excellent photos lost, but at that time herders had the safety net of the communist collective. During the recent
almost never falls.
and brief but relevant freeze, only a handful of international agencies came to the aid of the herders.
The far northern areas of Khövsgöl and Khentii aimags are essentially the
information on Mongo- Some analysts have suggested that the disaster was exacerbated by the inexperience of nu-
southern reaches of Siberia and are covered by larch and pine forests known
lia’s fragile ecology. merous new herders, who chose not to embark on the traditional month-long trek (otor), which
by the Russian word ‘taiga’.
takes herders to other pastures in autumn. Tragically, the poorest herders were the most af-
Near the centre of Mongolia is the Khangai Nuruu range, with its highest
fected, just when they least needed it. In the years since the zud, many of the affected herders
peak, Otgon Tenger Uul, reaching 3905m. On the northern slope of these
migrated to Ulaanbaatar to seek work (see the boxed text, p77) or entered the field of illegal
mountains is the source of the Selenge Gol, Mongolia’s largest river, which
gold prospecting (p147).
flows northward into Lake Baikal in Siberia. While the Selenge Gol is the
 50 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • P r o t e c t e d A re a s 51

you will realistically get to a snow leopard (irbis), argali sheep (argal) or two decades its numbers have dropped from 130,000 to just 8000 (and fall-
moose (khandgai) is in a museum. ing). Brown bears have also been hit hard by poachers – in October 2000,
Despite the lack of water in the Gobi, numerous species (many of which Vietnamese smugglers were caught trying to leave Mongolia with 80 brown- Silent Steppe: The Illegal
are endangered) somehow survive. These include the Gobi argali sheep, bear gall bladders (each worth up to US$200). Wildlife Trade Crisis (July
wild camel (khavtgai), Asiatic wild ass (khulan), Gobi bear (mazaalai), ibex There are 22 species of endangered birds, including many species of hawk, 2006), published by the
The Wildlife Conserva- (yangir) and black-tailed gazelle (khar suult zeer). In the wide open steppe falcon, buzzard, crane and owl. Despite Mongolian belief that it’s bad luck Netherlands-Mongolia
tion Society’s Mongolia you may see the rare saiga antelope, Mongolian gazelle (tsagaan zeer), several to kill a crane, the elegant white-naped crane is threatened with extinction Trust Fund for Environ-
programme strives to species of jerboa (alag daaga), which is a rodent endemic to Central Asia, and due to habitat loss. German ornithologists have recently conducted surveys mental Reform (NEMO), is
address wildlife conserva- millions of furry marmots (tarvaga), waking up after their last hibernation on the crane and estimate there are just 5000 breeding pairs left in the wild. an important publication
tion issues through or preparing for the next. The best place to see them is in Dornod’s Mongol Daguur Strictly Protected that highlights the
various approaches that Further north in the forests live the wild boar (zerleg gakhai), brown bear Area (p174). decimation of wildlife
reach local communi- (khuren baavgai), roe deer (bor görös), wolf (chono), reindeer (tsaa buga), Every year the government allows up to 300 falcons to be captured and sold in Mongolia. You can
ties, wildlife biologists, elk (khaliun buga), musk deer (khuder) and moose, as well as plenty of sable abroad; the major buyers are the royal families of Kuwait and the United Arab download the document
provincial governments (bulga) and lynx (shiluus), whose furs, unfortunately, are in high demand. Emirates. A licence for each bird costs US$4600. On top of this, unknown by going to the World
and national ministries. Most of the mountains are extremely remote, thus providing an ideal habitat numbers of other falcons (possibly in their hundreds) are illegally smuggled Bank website (www
Read more at www.wcs for argali sheep, ibex, the very rare snow leopard and smaller mammals such out of the country. As a direct result, breeding pairs dropped from 3000 to .worldbank.org/nemo).
.org/Mongolia. as the fox, ermine and hare. 2200 over the past five years.
One positive news story is the resurrection of the takhi wild horse. The
BIRDS takhi was actually extinct in the wild in the 1960s. It has been successfully
Mongolia is home to 469 recorded species of bird. In the desert you may see reintroduced into three special protected areas after an extensive breeding
the desert warbler, saxaul sparrow (boljmor) and McQueen’s bustard (toodog), program overseas. For more on the takhi see p116.
The takhi horse also goes
as well as sandgrouse, finch (byalzuuhai) and the cinereous vulture (tas). In preserved areas of the mountains, about 1000 snow leopards remain.
by the name Przewalski’s
Mongolians consider wolf On the steppes, you will certainly see the most charismatic bird in Mongolia – They are hunted for their pelts (which are also part of some shamanist and
horse. It was named after
parts and organs to con- the demoiselle crane (övögt togoruu) – as well as the hoopoe (övöölj), the Buddhist traditional practices), as are the leopards’ major source of food, the
Colonel Nikolai Przew-
tain curative properties. odd falcon (shonkhor), vulture (yol), and golden and steppe eagle (bürged). marmot. For details on the attempt to save the snow leopard see p216.
alski, an officer in the
The meat and lungs are Other steppe species include the upland buzzard (sar), black kite (sokhor Each year the government sells licences to hunt 300 ibex and 40 argali sheep,
Russian Imperial Army
good for respiratory ail- elee) and some varieties of owl (shar shuvuu) and hawk (khartsaga). Some both endangered species, netting the government more than US$500,000.
who made the horse’s
ments, the intestines aid black kites will even swoop down and catch pieces of bread in midair if you
existence known to
in digestion, powdered throw the pieces high enough. These magnificent raptors, perched majesti- Plants
Europe after an explora-
wolf rectum can soothe cally on a rock by the side of the road, will rarely be disturbed by your jeep Mongolia can be roughly divided into three zones: grassland and shrubland
tory expedition to Central
the pain of haemorrhoids or the screams of your guide (‘Look. Eagle!! Bird!! We stop?’) but following (55% of the country); forests, which only cover parts of the mountain steppe
Asia in 1878.
and hanging a wolf the almost inaudible click of your lens cap, these birds will move and almost (8%); and desert (36%). Less than 1% of the country is used for human set-
tongue around ones be in China before you have even thought about apertures. tlements and crop cultivation. Grasslands are used extensively for grazing
neck will cure gland and In the mountains, you may be lucky to spot species of ptarmigan (tsagaan and, despite the vast expanses, overgrazing is not uncommon.
thyroid ailments. yatuu), bunting (khömrög byalzuuhai), woodpecker (tonshuul), owl and Forests of Siberian larch (sometimes up to 45m in height), Siberian
the endemic Altai snowcock (khoilog). The lakes of the west and north are and Scotch pine, and white and ground birch cover parts of northern
visited by Dalmatian pelican (khoton), hooded crane (khar togoruu), relict Mongolia. American actress Julia
gull (tsakhlai) and bar-headed goose. In the Gobi the saxaul shrub covers millions of hectares and is essential in Roberts stepped out of
Eastern Mongolia has the largest breeding population of cranes, including anchoring the desert sands and preventing degradation and erosion. Saxaul her usual star-studded
the hooded and Siberian varieties and the critically endangered white-naped takes a century to grow to around 4m in height, creating wood so dense that element in 2000 to host
crane (tsen togoruu), of which only 4500 remain in the wild. it sinks in water. a documentary on the
Khentii aimag and some other parts of central Mongolia are famous for horses and nomad culture
FISH the effusion of red, yellow and purple wildflowers, mainly rhododendrons of Mongolia. The pro-
Rivers such as the Selenge, Orkhon, Zavkhan, Balj, Onon and Egiin, as well and edelweiss. Extensive grazing is the major threat to Mongolia’s flowers, gramme was filmed by
Mongolia’s river mon-
as dozens of lakes, including Khövsgöl Nuur, hold 76 species of fish. They trees and shrubs; more than 200 species are endangered. Tigress Productions (UK)
sters, known as taimen,
include trout, grayling (khadran), roach, lenok (zebge), Siberian sturgeon and can be viewed at the
are the ultimate strike
for some anglers. Taimen
(khilem), pike (tsurkhai), perch (algana), the endemic Altai osman and the PROTECTED AREAS Khustain Nuruu informa-
enormous taimen, a Siberian relative of the salmon, which can grow up to The Ministry of Nature & Environment (MNE) and its Special Protected tion centre (p115).
Conservation Fund has
1.5m in length and weigh up to 50kg. Areas Administration (SPAA;x011-326 617; fax 328 620; Baga Toiruu 44, Ulaanbaatar) control
created an enlightening
the national park system with a tiny annual budget of around US$650,000.
video on YouTube (www
ENDANGERED SPECIES With this budget and substantial financial assistance and guidance from
.youtube.com and search
According to conservationists, 28 species of mammals are endangered in international governments and nongovernmental organisations, the animals,
for ‘Mongolia taimen’).
Mongolia. The more commonly known species are the wild ass, wild camel, flora and environment in some parts of the country are being preserved.
argali sheep, Gobi bear and ibex; others include otter, wolf, saiga antelope Unfortunately, in many protected areas the implementation of park regula-
and some species of jerboa. The red deer is also in dire straits; over the past tions is weak, if not nonexistent.
 52 E N V I R O N M E N T • • P r o t e c t e d A re a s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 53

THE FIVE SNOUTS National Parks Features Activities Time to visit

Mongolians define themselves as the ‘people of five animals’ (tavan kosighu mal): horses, cattle Altai Tavan Bogd National mountains, glaciers, lakes: argali mountaineering, horse trekking, Jun-Sep
(including yaks), sheep, goats and Bactrian camels. The odd one out is the reindeer, which is herded Park (p229) sheep, ibex, snow leopard, backpacking, fishing, eaglehunting
in small numbers by the Tsaatan people (tsaa means ‘reindeer’) near the Siberian border. Chickens eagle, falcon (in winter)
and pigs are rare in Mongolia. A rough ratio exists for the relative values of the five animals: a Gorkhi-Terelj National Park rugged hills, boulders, streams river rafting, hiking, mountain year-round
horse is worth five to seven sheep or seven to 10 goats. A camel is worth 1½ horses. (p104) biking, rock climbing, camping,
The horse (mor) is the pride of Mongolia and there are few, if any, nomads who haven’t learned cross-country skiing, horse riding
to ride as soon as they can walk. Mongolian horses are shorter than those in other countries Gurvan Saikhan National desert mountains, canyons, sand hiking, sand-dune sliding, camel May-Oct
(don’t call them ponies – Mongolians will be offended). They provide perfect transport, can en- Park (p208) dunes: Gobi argali sheep, ibex, trekking, bird-watching
dure harsh winters and, importantly, produce that much-loved Mongolian beverage: fermented black-tailed gazelle
mare milk, or airag. Mongolians have more than 300 different words to describe the country’s Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan lake and mountains: wolf, fishing, hiking, horse trekking, May-Sep
two million horses, mostly relating to colouring. Nuur National Park (p130) deer, fox bird-watching
Together, cows (ükher) and yaks (sarlag) number around two million, and are used for milk, Khövsgöl Nuur National lake, mountains, rivers: fish, mountain biking, kayaking, fishing, Jun-Sep
meat (especially borts, which is dried and salted meat) and for their hides. Most yaks are actually Park (p152) moose, wolverine, bear, sable, hiking, horse trekking, bird-
a cross between a yak and a cow (known as a hainag in Mongolian), as hainags supply more elk, roe deer watching
milk than thoroughbred yaks. Khustain National Park rugged hills and the Tuul river: trekking, wildlife spotting Apr-Oct
Fat-tailed sheep (khon) are easy to herd and provide wool for clothes, carpets and ger insula- (p115) takhi horse, gazelle, deer, wolf,
tion, as well as meat (the ubiquitous mutton) – every nomadic family wants to own at least a lynx, manul wild cat
few sheep. Goats (yamaa) are popular for their meat and, especially, for cashmere wool. There Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly mountains, rivers, lakes: argali horse trekking, hiking, swimming May-Sep
are around 11.5 million sheep and 11 million goats in Mongolia. Protected Area (p245) sheep, roe deer, wolf
Camels (temee) are used for long-distance (though slow) transport, and once crossed Mongolia
in large caravans. Considered valuable for their adaptability and their wool, they number about
260,000. They’re considered proud, intelligent creatures and actually quite athletic – Mongolians Entrance fees are set at T3000 per foreigner and T300 per Mongolian
have recently put them to use as charges in a new camel-polo club. (although guides and drivers are often excluded).
If you are not able to get a permit and are found in a park without one,
the worst penalty you’re likely to suffer is being asked to leave or pay a The World Wide Fund for
The MNE classifies protected areas into four categories (from most pro- fine to the park ranger. Nature website at www
tected to least): If you think you might need permits for conducting research in a park, .wwf.mn has relevant
Strictly Protected Areas Very fragile areas of great importance; hunting, logging and develop- it’s best to contact the MNE’s SPAA department directly. The ministry is news on Mongolia’s
Mongolians collect ment is strictly prohibited and there is no established human influence. environment and topical
located just behind the Ulaanbaatar Hotel (Map pp70–1) in UB.
various wild herbs and National Parks Places of historical and educational interest; fishing and grazing by nomadic information that affects
flowers for their me-
dicinal properties: yellow
people is allowed and parts of the park are developed for ecotourism. ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES the country. It also in-
Natural & Historical Monuments Important places of historical and cultural interest; develop- Mongolia’s natural environment remains in good shape compared with cludes statistics, data and
poppies to heal wounds, ment is allowed within guidelines. conservation threats.
that of many Western countries. The country’s small population and no-
edelweiss to add vitamins Nature Reserves Less important regions protecting rare species of flora and fauna, and archaeo- madic subsistence economy have been its environmental salvation.
to the blood, and feather logical sites; some development is allowed within certain guidelines. However, Mongolia does have its share of problems. Communist pro-
grass to cure an upset
duction quotas in the past put pressure on grasslands to yield more crops
stomach. The 60 protected areas in Mongolia now constitute an impressive 13.8% and support more livestock than was sustainable. The rise in the number
of the country (21.52 million hectares). The strictly protected areas of of herders and livestock has wreaked havoc on the grasslands; some 70% In 2007 Tsetsegee
Bogdkhan Uul, Great Gobi, Uvs Nuur Basin, Dornod Mongol and of pastureland is degraded and near village centres around 80% of plant Munkhbayar, a herder
Khustain Nuruu are biosphere reserves included in Unesco’s Man and species have disappeared. from central Mongolia,
The area around Bogd- Biosphere Project. Forest fires, nearly all of which are caused by careless human activity, was awarded the
khan Uul, near Ulaan- At the time of independence in 1990, some proposed that the entire are common during the windy spring season. The fires destroy huge tracts prestigious Goldman
baatar, was protected country be turned into a national park, but the government settled on 30% of forest and grassland, mainly in Khentii and Dornod aimags. In 1996 Environmental Prize
from hunting and logging (potentially creating the world’s largest park system). This goal, however, alone around 80,000 sq km of land was scorched, causing up to US$1.9 for his efforts to block
as early as the 12th has stalled in recent years as the government has given favour to expand- billion of damage. aggressive mining on
century, and was officially ing mining operations and the sale of mining rights. Other threats to the land include mining, which has polluted 28 river the Ongii River. You can
designated as a national basins in eight aimags (there are more than 300 mines in Mongolia). The watch a short video on
park in 1778. Permits huge Oyu Tolgoi mine in Ömnögov will require the use of 360L of water his heroic story at
To visit Mongolia’s parks – especially strictly protected areas, national per second, which environmentalists say might not be sustainable. China’s www.goldmanprize
parks and some monuments – you will need a permit, either from the local insatiable appetite for minerals and gas is opening up new mines, but .org/node/606.
SPAA office or from rangers at the entrances to the parks. The permits the bigger threat is China’s hunt for the furs, meat and body parts of
are little more than an entrance fee, but they are an important source of endangered animals. Chinese demand has resulted in a 75% decline in the
revenue for the maintenance of the parks. number of marmots and an 85% drop in the number of saiga antelope.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
54 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com

RESPONSIBLE ECOTOURISM
Mongolia’s environment, flora and fauna are precious. Decades of Soviet exploitation, urban
sprawl and development have greatly affected the ecology; Mongolia does not need tourism to
exacerbate the problems. Please bear the following pointers in mind as you travel around the
country. If camping or hiking, please note the boxed text on p60. In protected areas or areas of
natural beauty try to keep to existing jeep tracks rather than pioneering new trails, which quickly
degenerate into an eroded mess.
„ Patronise travel companies and ger camps that you feel advance sustainable development,
safe waste management, water conservation and fair employment practices.
„ When on a jeep trip have a designated rubbish bag. Make an effort to carry out rubbish left
by others.
„ Don’t buy goods made from endangered species.
„ Don’t engage in or encourage hunting. It is illegal in all parks and reserves.
„ Don’t spend all your money with one company (easily done on a tour) but spread your
money through the economy. Support local services, guides and initiatives.
„ When fishing, buy a permit and practise standard ‘catch and release’ policy. Use barbless
hooks.

Urban sprawl, coupled with a demand for wood to build homes and
for heating and cooking, is slowly reducing the forests. This destruction
of the forests has also lowered river levels, especially the Tuul Gol near
While browsing through Ulaanbaatar. In recent years the Tuul has actually gone dry in the spring
Ulaanbaatar souvenir months due to land mismanagement and improper water use.
shops keep an eye out for Large-scale infrastructure projects are further cause for concern. The
two great ecology books: 18m-tall Dörgön hydropower station, currently being built on the Chon
Lake Khövsgöl National Khairkh Gol in Khovd, will submerge canyons and pastures. The dam
Park – A Visitor’s Guide threatens fish and will only run in summer when electricity is in lower
(1997), published by demand compared with winter.
Discovery Initiatives, and Conservationists are also concerned about the ‘Millennium Rd’ which
The Gobi Gurvansaikhan will likely cut through important gazelle migration routes in eastern
National Park, written Mongolia. Its completion is sure to increase mining and commerce in-
by Bernd Steinhauer- side fragile ecosystems.
Burkart. Air pollution is becoming a serious problem, especially in Ulaanbaatar.
At the top of Zaisan Memorial in the capital, a depressing layer of dust and
smoke from the city’s three thermal power stations can be seen hovering
over the city. This layer is often appalling in winter, when all homes are
continuously burning fuel and the power stations are working overtime.
Ulaanbaatar has also suffered from acid rain, and pollution is killing fish
in nearby Tuul Gol in central Mongolia.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
55

Mongolia Outdoors
Mongolia is a giant outdoor park. With scattered settlements, few roads and
immense areas of steppe, mountain and forest, the entire country beckons
the outdoor enthusiast. But the lack of infrastructure is a double-edged
sword: while there are many areas that have potential for eco-tourism, only
a few (ie Khövsgöl Nuur, Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur and Terelj National Park)
can really handle independent travellers. Signing up with a tour group, on
the other hand, gives you instant logistical help. Tour agencies can act like
mobile support centres, using vans, trucks and helicopters to shuttle clients
and their gear around. Independent travellers hoping to explore remote
areas of the country will need to be completely self-sufficient. This chapter
provides tips on how to deal with these logistical hurdles.

CYCLE TOURING
Mongolia is an adventure cyclist’s dream. There are few fences, lots of open
spaces and very little traffic. Roads are mainly dirt but the jeep trails are
usually hard-packed earth, allowing you to cover 40km to 50km per day.
Overlanding by bike does require careful planning and thought; you’ll need
to be totally self-sufficient in terms of tools and spare parts. Other factors
include washed-out bridges, trails that disappear into rivers or marshland
and, in late summer, heavy rain and mud. On the plus side, locals will be
pleasantly intrigued by your bike. You’ll have lots of chances to swap your
bike for a horse and go for a short canter, but don’t forget to show your
Mongolian counterpart the brakes! A few more tips to keep in mind:
„ Dogs can be ferocious and will chase you away from gers. If you stop
and hold your ground they will back off; it helps to pick up a rock.
The faster you cycle away the more they want to chase you.
„ Cyclists usually follow river valleys. However, in Mongolia it’s often
better to go over the mountains. Roads along rivers are usually sandy
or consist of loose stones that make riding difficult.
„ Most cyclists consider the best trip to be a cross-country adventure
but in Mongolia (where there are vast areas of nothingness) consider
focussing on one small area and doing a loop. There are great routes
to explore in Khövsgöl and Bayan-Ölgii aimags.
„ Bring all the spare parts you may need, including brake pads, cables Planning a cycle tour of
and inner tubes. Spare parts are hard to find in Mongolia, but you Mongolia? Have a look at
could try the Seven Summits (p93) in Ulaanbaatar. Freewheelers Mongolia
Route website (www
Gear, Bike Hire & Tours .geocities.com/aliingi
Mountain bikes are most suitable for Mongolia’s rough terrain. But if you /mongolia/mongoliaroute
are planning on doing a long-distance trip, a touring bike with wide wheels .html), which has day-by-
will also suffice. Bring all your equipment from home as the stuff on offer in day details of usual bike
Mongolia is often unreliable, poor quality or may not be available. Otherwise, routes in Mongolia.
you could try renting a bike from the Seven Summits, Mongolia Expeditions
(p81) or Karakorum Expeditions (p81) in Ulaanbaatar. Guided tours are led
by Bike Mongolia (www.bikemongolia.com). In summer, Korean-made bikes are sold
in the plaza opposite the State Department Store.

Routes
The following trips require several days. They can be made solo provided
you are equipped with a tent, sleeping bag, food, tools and spare parts.
Another option is to use vehicle support; hire a jeep and driver to take you
56 MONGOLIA OUTDOORS •• Cycle Touring lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MONGOLIA OUTDOORS •• Cycle Touring 57

CHINGGIS KHAAN TRAIL

ABANDON JEEP This trail in northern Khentii offers plenty of cultural heritage and nice
In the past, most travellers rocked up to Mongolia with one plan in mind: hop into a jeep, set riding terrain. Get a ride from Ulaanbaatar to Tsenkhermandal in Khentii
off across the steppes and tour the major sights, stopping to stay in ger camps, ride horses and aimag, then cycle north to Khökh Nuur, buried deep in the Khentii
meet nomad families. While the jeep is still a valid travel option, there are many alternatives, Mountains. Continue northwest to Khangal Nuur and the very bumpy
including the following: road to Balden Bereeven Khiid; another 17km brings you to the deer
stones and then Öglögchiin Kherem. Continue to Batshireet, Binder and Cyclists should pick up
„ Volunteering – Join a volunteer project in Ulaanbaatar’s ger districts with Rinky Dink Travel finally, Dadal. This trip takes four to six days. From here, either return to a copy of Where the
Mongolia (p81) Ulaanbaatar or continue your trip into northern Dornod and the towns Pavement Ends, by Erika
„ Ger to Ger programme – Walk, horse trek and raft between nomadic families (p59) of Bayan-Uul, Bayandun and Dashbalbar. Warmbrunn, which
„ Dog sledding – Join guide Joel Rauzy on a winter dog-sled trip in Terelj or Khövsgöl (p82)
describes the author’s
ULAANGOM TO ÖLGII sometimes harrow-
„ Rock climbing – Grab some granite in Terelj (p112) or Dundgov (p198) ing account of biking
It’s difficult to get lost on this route in northwestern Mongolia, which fol-
„ Ranch work – Bust some broncos at the Anak Ranch (p144) lows the main jeep trail from Ulaangom to Ölgii city. You’ll pass by lakes, through Mongolia, China
„ Yak carting – Available in Terelj through Nomadic Journeys (p81) over mountain passes and through dramatic canyons. From Ulaangom, and Vietnam. It’s well
travel northwest to Üüreg Nuur. Veer south over Bairam Pass and then written and provides
„ Backcountry walking – Trek near Kharkhiraa Uul (p241) in Uvs aimag or do the Khövsgöl Lake-
onto the coal mining town of Khotgor. Cycle to the southeast corner of useful cultural insight for
to-Renchinlkhumbe route (p156)
Achit Nuur (where there is a bridge over the river) and follow the road cyclists travelling across
„ Cycle touring – Pedal your way across the country (p55) the steppes.
to the Khovd Gol canyon. The section from Achit Nuur to the canyon
„ Dune-buggy tour – Kick up some dirt with a buggy; contact Vast Gobi (p251) is hot, dry and buggy so you’ll want to move quickly through this area.
The 18km stretch through the canyon is the most scenic part of the trip.
It’s another 17km from the end of the canyon to Ölgii. From Ölgii you
out to the best biking areas and keep all your gear in the vehicle while you could continue on to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. Get a ride into the
ride unhindered. For this type of trip, a vehicle will cost around US$35 to park from a local driver, explore the area with your bike and then cycle
US$40 per day, plus petrol costs. This small investment will definitely make back to Ölgii.
life easier and will also provide security; it makes a lot of sense if you are
travelling in a group.
Note that these routes are only starter suggestions. You could cycle around KHÖVSGÖL AIMAG
many areas of northern, eastern and western Mongolia; consult with travel Khövsgöl is a great area for cycling; there are numerous attractions and
experts in Ulaanbaatar about the possibilities (p80). Mongolia Expeditions, various route options. A nice route leads south from Mörön to Tariat
Seven Summits and Tseren Tours are places to start. Gobi areas, due to their in Arkhangai, via the towns of Shine-Ider, Galt and Jargalant. The more
lack of water and facilities, are places to avoid. popular route is from Mörön up to Khatgal and then along either side of
Khövsgöl Nuur. The slightly more adventurous could cycle in the spec-
OUT OF ULAANBAATAR tacular Chandman-Öndör area.
The roads out of Ulaanbaatar are busy with cars and trucks so try getting a
lift 100km out of town until the traffic thins out. Remember that you can TSETSERLEG TO BAYANKHONGOR
also ride on the dirt tracks to the side of the modern highways. Heading west, This 200km route, from Tsetserleg in Arkhangai to Bayankhongor city,
if you are travelling to Tsetserleg, take the route that goes to Ögii Nuur and takes four days and involves lots of river crossings and loose stones. This
Tsetserleg (the direct route from Dahinchinlen to Kharkhorin is an awful is a difficult and challenging trip with rugged terrain, travelling over alpine
mess of sand and mud). passes in Khangai Nuruu National Park. On the first day it’s 32km from
Tsetserleg to Bulgan sum centre; camp near the town or just past it. On
ERDENET TO TERKHIIN TSAGAAN NUUR the second night plan on camping around 10km south of the last pass.
This multi-day adventure takes you from the rolling, forested hills of On the third day it’s downhill but you’ll need to cross the Tüin Gol a few
Bulgan to the more rugged Arkhangai. Start by taking the train or bus from times. There are plenty of camping spots near the river as you head south
Ulaanbaatar to Erdenet. If you ride to Erdenet don’t miss a side trip to towards Erdenetsogt. On the fourth day you pass through Erdenetsogt
Amarbayasgalant Khiid. before reaching Bayankhongor; this is the most difficult day with lots of
From Erdenet, travel due west of the town to Bugat, a 27km ride, then rocks before Erdenetsogt.
continue west on what is essentially the road to Khövsgöl. It will take about
three days to cover the 160km of trails that connect Bugat to Khairkhan, ÖLGII TO ULAANBAATAR
just inside Arkhangai aimag. You’ll find rolling steppe and hard roads the This mammoth 1450km expedition will take three or four weeks. In
whole way. summer, the prevailing winds in Mongolia travel from west to east,
From Khairkhan it’s another two days to Ikh Tamir (approx 140km). From which means that you’ll enjoy tailwinds if you start in Ölgii and end in
Ikh Tamir you can follow the Tamir River west, then follow the road when Ulaanbaatar. Ending in UB also gives you something to look forward to –
it splits from the river and continue to the town of Chuluut. From here you a cold beer at Dave’s Place (p91)! The northern route, via either Mörön or
continue down the Chuluut River to Tariat and Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur. Tosontsengel, is more interesting than the southern Gobi route.
 58 M O N G O L I A O U T D O O R S • • Fi s h i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O N G O L I A O U T D O O R S • • H o r s e & C a m e l T re k k i n g 59

FISHING
With Mongolia’s large number of lakes (nuur) and rivers (gol), and a sparse GER TO GER
population that generally prefers red meat, the fish are just waiting to be As the most innovative tourism concept in Mongolia, the Ger to Ger programme (Map pp70-1;
caught. The best places to dangle your lines are at Khövsgöl Nuur (p155), x313 336; www.gertoger.org; Arizona Plaza, Suite 11, Baruun Selbe 5/3, Ulaanbaatar) should be near the top
for grayling and lenok, and Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (p130), which has a lot of every traveller’s wish list. By combining hiking, sports, Mongolian language and visits with
of pike. The season is mid-June to late September. You can get a fishing local families, the experience promises total cultural immersion.
Outside magazine carries permit from the national park office. Permits are valid for two days or 10 The concept is simple. Travellers can choose one of several routes in Dundgov, Arkhangai,
a touching article on its fish, whichever comes first. For the truly intrepid, visit either lake in winter Bulgan or Terelj, or do a combination of routes if they have more time. Prior to departure they are
website about fly-fishing for some hard-core ice fishing. educated in local social graces, culture and appropriate Mongolian phrases. Transport is organised
in northern Mongolia. Go Serious anglers will want to try out Mongolia’s rivers – the fly-fishing to the starting point and then the trekkers begin walking from ger to ger, which can be anywhere
to http://outside.away is some of the best anywhere. The major target is taimen, an enormous from 5km to 20km apart. Once the trekkers have reached the appointed ger, the local family
.com and enter ‘fly-fish- salmonoid that spends its leisure time hunting down unfortunate marmots prepares a meal and helps them set up camp (tents and gear are carried by pack animals).
ing Mongolia’ in the site’s attempting to cross the river. These monsters can reach 1.5m in length and Activities are available at each ger. The Arkhangai route, for example, carries the theme ‘three
search engine. weigh 50kg. Unfortunately they are also prized by poachers and are thus manly sports’; participants learn archery, wrestling and horse training at one or another ger.
carefully guarded by locals along the river. To avoid any problems, you Because distances vary between gers, there may be different modes of transport between
must fish for taimen with a reputable outfitter. Catch and release is standard them – you may take a yak cart for one stretch or go by horse on another. The programme
practice. Outfitters run fishing trips on the Ider, Chuluut, Selenge, Orkhon, is not forced on the host families; they are still nomadic and may move their ger if they have
Eg, Onon and Delgermörön Gols. to (gers along the route keep in regular contact and will know the location of other families).
While it’s relatively easy to get a fishing permit in a national park, buying Participant families are also paid fairly (many have tripled their incomes) and a portion of the
one for other areas is much more difficult. Anglers must have a special permit proceeds goes to community development.
authorised by the Ministry of Nature & Environment (x011-326 617, fax 011-328 620; You pay for your entire trip in Ulaanbaatar, which means you won’t have to pull out your wal-
Responsible outfitters Baga Toiruu 44, Ulaanbaatar), which costs US$50 a week. But to get the permit you let each hour to pay for goods and services. But you may want to bring along some extra cash
concerned with poaching need a contract with the sum where you plan to fish and approval by the because part of the trip includes a visit to a local cooperative where you can buy products made
have started the Taimen aimag. Obviously this is not possible for casual tourists – the whole system by herders (you can get some great bargains on handmade cashmere sweaters and the like).
Conservation Fund (www has been set up so that it can be effectively managed by tour operators.
.taimen.org), which Before signing up, make sure your outfitter has the necessary agreements
and permits; some take the risk of fishing illegally which can get you in big Bogd. In Uvs aimag try the Kharkhiraa and Türgen uuls (p241), which have
works with local com- hiking trails of three to seven days.
munities to protect the trouble if you’re caught.
If you fish without a permit you will be fined and have your equipment In northern Mongolia there is great hiking in the Khövsgöl Nuur area While hiking, it will
rivers. Efforts are being (p155). Down in the Gobi, it’s possible to hike in Gurvan Saikhan National also be handy to have a
made to ensure that lo- confiscated. Killing a taimen brings more problems than you want to deal
with – locals believe such an offence brings misery to 999 human souls. Park (p208), especially around Yolyn Am. working knowledge of
cals benefit from tourism appropriate phrases, such
(some are hired as guides Four responsible fly-fishing tour operators are Mongolia River Outfitters
and wranglers). (www.mongoliarivers.com), Fish Mongolia (www.fishmongolia.co.uk), Sweetwater Travel (www HORSE & CAMEL TREKKING as ‘Can I cross the next
.sweetwatertravel.com/mongolia.htm) and Nemekh Tour (www.nemekh.com). The cost for two Horse treks in Mongolia range from easy day trips with guides, to multi- river?’ (Ter goliig gatlaj
people on an 11-day package trip will be in the neighbourhood of US$3500 week solo adventures deep in the mountains. Inexperienced riders should bolohuu?), ‘Where am I?’
all-inclusive, more if you take a Cessna flight direct to the camps from UB. begin with the former, organising their first ride through a ger camp or tour (‘En yamar nertei gazar
It’s possible to buy equipment in Mongolia but, to ensure you have the operator. The prettiest, most accessible places to try are the camps at Terelj ve?’) and ‘Is that dog
best quality stuff, bring it from home (use barbless hooks to protect the fish). and Khövsgöl Nuur, where you can normally hire a horse and guide for less dangerous?’ (‘En nokhoi
In many places, all you need is a strong handline and a lure. than US$20 a day. ayultai uu?’)
Even the most experienced riders will benefit from a lesson in how to
Anglers heading out
HIKING deal with a Mongolian horse. The local breed is short, stocky and half-wild;
As a country with few cars or paved roads, hiking opportunities abound. Mongolian horsemen can provide instruction on saddling, hobbling and
to the rivers and lakes
The biggest obstacle faced by hikers is finding transport to the mountains caring for a horse. You’ll also get tips on the best places to ride and on
should pack a copy of
once they get far afield from Ulaanbaatar. However, in the regions around purchasing saddles and other equipment. Try Stepperiders (p108) in Töv
Fishing in Mongolia, pub-
Bogdkhan Uul (p107) and Terelj (p111), which are not far from Ulaanbaatar, aimag. For further tips see the boxed text, p281.
lished by the US-based
there are enough mountains to keep hikers busy for a few days. Of the dozens of possible horse treks, several are popular and not difficult
Avery Press.
Pay any fees and procure any permits required by local authorities. Be to arrange. Tsetserleg to Bayankhongor (p57) is a rugged wilderness trip that Travelling by Mongolian
aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environ- crosses a series of alpine passes. In the east, try the Binder area (p171) of Horse, by Bekhjargal
ment. Decent maps are hard to come by. The 1:1,000,000 topographic maps Khentii aimag, which can include a ride to Dadal near the Siberian border. Bayarsaikhan, is required
available in Ulaanbaatar are your best bet. The most popular horse-trekking area is Khövsgöl Nuur (p152), largely reading for anyone
Mosquitoes and midges are a curse. The situation is at its worst during because there is such a good network of guides and available horses. Some planning their own
spring and early summer, with the marshy lakes and canyons in the western travellers have horse-trekked from Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur to Khövsgöl expedition. The book
deserts the most troublesome areas. Nuur. By land (following the twisting river valleys) it’s around 295km and gives invaluable tips on
In western Mongolia, prime hiking areas include the Altai Tavan Bogd takes at least two weeks by horse. Closer to Ulaanbaatar, the areas of Terelj horse care and riding.
National Park (p229) around Khoton Nuur or between the lakes and Tavan and Bogdkhan are both excellent if you don’t have a lot of time.
60 MONGOLIA OUTDOORS •• Responsible Camping & Hiking lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MONGOLIA OUTDOORS •• Kayaking, Canoeing & Rafting 61

RESPONSIBLE CAMPING & HIKING SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR HIKING

To help preserve the fragile ecology and beauty of Mongolia, consider the following tips when Before embarking on a walking trip, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoy-
camping and hiking. able experience:
„ Be aware that weather conditions and terrain vary significantly from one region (or even one
Rubbish
trail) to another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any trail. These differences influence
„ Carry out all nonbiodegradable items and deposit them in rubbish bins in Ulaanbaatar (other the way hikers dress and the equipment they carry.
villages and towns won’t have proper methods of disposal). Don’t overlook easily forgotten
„ Don’t forget about Mongolia’s notoriously changeable weather – a sudden wind from the
items, such as silver paper, orange peel and cigarette butts. Make an effort to carry out rub-
north will make you think you’re in the Arctic rather than the Gobi. Only from June to August
bish left by others.
can you expect balmy temperatures, but this is also when it rains the most.
„ Never bury your rubbish: digging disturbs soil and ground cover, and encourages erosion.
„ Essential survival gear includes emergency food rations and a leak-proof water bottle (take a
Buried rubbish will likely be dug up by animals, who may be injured or poisoned by it. It may
minimum of 2L of water a day, and more during summer).
also take years to decompose.
„ It’s best to hike with at least one companion and always tell someone where you’re going.
„ Minimise waste by taking minimal packaging and no more food than you will need. Take
Refer to your compass frequently so you can find the way back. A GPS is also a handy tool.
reusable containers or stuff sacks.
„ Unless you’re planning a camping trip, start out early in the day so that you can easily make it
„ Sanitary napkins, tampons and condoms should be carried out despite the inconvenience.
back before dark.
They burn and decompose poorly.
„ Don’t rely on bottled water. Disposal of plastic bottles can be a major problem. Use iodine
drops or purification tablets instead. In Western Mongolia there is great horse trekking around Otgon Tenger
Uul (p245); it can take six days to circle the mountain. In Altai Tavan In the Empire of Ghengis
Human-Waste Disposal Bogd National Park (p229), try a horse trek around Khoton Nuur. There Khan, by Stanley Stewart,
„ Contamination of water sources by human faeces can lead to the transmission of all sorts
is also horse trekking around Tsast Uul and Tsambagarav Uul. Tour op- is an account of the
of nasties. Where there is no toilet, choose a spot at least 100m from any water source, bury erators in Ölgii can help set something up, or just turn up in any nearby author’s travels across
your waste at least 15cm deep, and bury or burn toilet paper, if possible. Cover the waste village and ask around for horses. Mongolia by horse.
with soil and a rock. In snow, dig down to the soil. At touristy places such as the ger camps at Terelj and in the south Gobi Despite its persistent
you can ride a camel, though these are more like photo sessions than seri- sarcasm, the book does
Washing ous sport. Some of the ger camps at Ongiin Khiid (p197) can arrange a present a vivid picture of
multiday camel trek. Mongolia and what it’s
„ For personal washing and teeth cleaning, use biodegradable soap and toothpaste and a
water container. Perform your ablutions at least 50m away from the watercourse. Disperse the like to travel by horse.
waste water widely to allow the soil to filter it fully before it seeps back to the watercourse.
KAYAKING, CANOEING & RAFTING
Mongolia’s numerous lakes and rivers are often ideal for kayaking and
„ Don’t use detergents within 50m of watercourses, even if they are biodegradable. Try to wash rafting. There is little white water but, during the summer rains, rivers
cooking utensils 50m from watercourses and use a scourer, sand or snow instead of detergent. can flow at up to 9km/h.
One of the most popular river trips is down the Tuul Gol, from the
Erosion bridge at the entrance to Terelj and back to Ulaanbaatar.
„ Hillsides and mountain slopes, especially at high altitudes, are prone to erosion. Stick to exist- There are more adventurous options that begin in Khövsgöl aimag. It’s
ing trails and avoid short cuts. possible to put a boat or kayak in the Eg or Delgermörön Gols (on the Eg Lost In Mongolia, by
you could start at Khatgal; on the Delgermörön, Bayanzürkh) and con- Colin Angus, describes
„ If a well-used trail passes through a mud patch, walk through the mud so as not to increase
the size of the patch.
tinue downstream to Sükhbaatar city in Selenge aimag. From Mörön it’s the first descent of the
a 14-day trip and towns along the way are two to four days apart. From Russian river the Yenisey,
„ Avoid disturbing the plant life that keeps topsoil in place. Sükhbaatar you can take the train back to Ulaanbaatar. completed by the author
In Bayan-Ölgii it’s possible to raft down the Khovd Gol from Khurgan and three friends in 2001.
Fires & Low-Impact Cooking Nuur, past Ölgii city and onto Myangad in Khovd aimag. While only half of the
„ Don’t rely on open fires for cooking and use a petrol stove whenever possible. Avoid stoves Rafting is organised along the Tuul and Khovd rivers by agencies based book actually takes place
powered by disposable butane-gas canisters. If you have to make an open fire, use existing in Ulaanbaatar (p80), including Juulchin, Khövsgöl Lodge Company and in Mongolia (the other
fire rings wherever possible; only use dead, fallen wood and remember that fire is sacred to Nomadic Journeys. Another good contact is a small outfit called Mongolia half is in Russia), it stands
Mongolians (so don’t pee on it). Use minimal wood – just enough for cooking purposes. Dried Canoeing (www.mongoliacanoeing.com), which offers multiday trips on as a thrilling account of
dung burns with great efficiency. the Orkhon and Tuul rivers. exploration in one of the
„ Ensure that you fully extinguish a fire after use. Spread the embers and douse them with water.
There is nothing stopping you from heading out on your own. The more remote parts of the
Seven Summits (p93) rents inflatable kayaks for about US$25 a day. If country.
„ If you are hiking with a guide and porters, supply stoves for the whole team. In alpine areas, you’re serious, bring your own gear.
ensure that all members are outfitted with enough clothing so that fires are not a necessity The best time for kayaking is in summer (June to September); the best
for warmth. time for rafting is July and August, after some decent rain.
© Lonely Planet Publications
62 www.lonelyplanet.com

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
ULAANBAATAR 62 lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • H i s t o r y 63

ULAANBAATAR
Ulaanbaatar HISTORY
The first recorded capital city of the recent
ORIENTATION
Most of the city spreads from east to west

Улаанбаатар
Mongolian empire was created in 1639. It along the main road, Enkh Taivny Örgön
was called Örgöö and was originally located Chölöö, also known as Peace Ave. At the
at the monastery of Da Khuree, some 420km centre is Sükhbaatar Sq, often simply known
from Ulaanbaatar in Arkhangai aimag (prov- as ‘the Square’ (talbai), which is just north of
ince). The monastery was the residence of Peace Ave. Sprawling suburbia is limited by
five-year-old Zanabazar who, at the time, had the four majestic mountains that surround
If Mongolia’s yin is its pristine countryside, then Ulaanbaatar (UB) conforms nicely to its been proclaimed the head of Buddhism in the city: Bayanzürkh, Chingeltei, Songino
yang. An enormous city of pulsating commerce, heavy traffic, sinful nightlife and bohemian Mongolia. Because it consisted of felt tents, Khairkhan and Bogdkhan. The river to the
counter-culture, the Mongolian capital stirs as much shock as it does excitement. the ‘city’ was easily transported when the grass south, the Tuul Gol, also somewhat limits the
went dry. Some 25 movements were recorded growth of suburban expansion.
UB is a cauldron of concrete and dirt. New buildings are thrown up on any available patch along the Orkhon, Selenge and Tuul Gols Around the Square are the Central Post
of ground, while Humvees battle Landcruisers and yellow taxis for right of way on pot-holed (rivers). Throughout such movement, the city Office (CPO) and the Palace of Culture, and
was given some fairly unexciting official and a couple of blocks west of the Square is the
boulevards. On the high street, tourists and new-moneyed Mongols look for bargains in
unofficial names, including Khuree (Camp) State Department Store.
European fashion shops and Mongolian cashmere boutiques. in 1706. The city is divided into six major districts,
In 1778 Khuree was erected at its present but there’s a multitude of subdistricts and
Between these chaotic scenes are islands of serenity – quiet monastery courtyards, public location (GPS: N47° 55.056’, E106° 55.007’) microdistricts. Mongolians rarely use street
squares and the odd beer patio. The river, the Tuul Gol, offers a cool respite to the south while and called the City of Felt. Later, the city be- names and numbers, so tracking down an ad-
the four holy mountains surrounding the city provide its backdrop. Ever-expanding ger (yurt) came known as Ikh Khuree (Great Camp), dress can be difficult. A typical address might
suburbs still surround the city, offering a glimpse back to before Soviet urban planning. and was under the rule of the Bogd Gegeen, be something like: Microdistrict 14, Building
or Living Buddha. The Manchus, however, 3, Flat 27. The problems with this are numer-
As Mongolia’s cultural, political, economic and social hub, Ulaanbaatar is the logical base used Uliastai as the administrative capital of ous – you are unlikely to know which micro-
for excursions into the countryside. As you’re planning your plunge take the time to explore Outer Mongolia. district it refers to, many buildings are not
In 1911 when Mongolia first proclaimed numbered or signed, and most street signs are
its excellent sights and museums, fill up at some great restaurants and soak in the eclectic
its independence from China, the city be- in Mongolian Cyrillic. This is why most locals
vibe. This ever-changing city may be the biggest surprise of your Mongolian adventure. came the capital of Outer Mongolia and was will give you an unofficial description, such
renamed Niislel Khuree (Capital Camp). In as ‘Door 67, building 33, last door of a white-
1918 it was invaded by the Chinese and three and-red building, behind the Drama Theatre’.
years later by the Russians. To find your way around Ulaanbaatar, a good
HIGHLIGHTS
Finally, in 1924 the city was renamed map, phrasebook and sense of direction are
„ Walk the prayer circuit around Gandan Ulaanbaatar (Red Hero), in honour of the vital. Because of the confusing state of af-
Khiid (p73), the country’s largest communist triumph, and declared the of- fairs, small maps are usually on the back of
monastery Museum of
ficial capital of an ‘independent’ Mongolia business cards.
Gandan Natural History (independent from China, not from the Soviet Ulaanbaatar is another reason to get a
„ Wonder at the eccentric collection of Khiid
animals, curios and artefacts at the
Union). The khangard (garuda), symbolising local SIM card for your phone; you’ll use it
National Museum of
Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan (p75) Mongolian History courage and honesty, was declared the city’s frequently to call places for directions when
official symbol. In 1933 Ulaanbaatar gained you get lost. (While it helps to speak basic
„ Take in a performance of traditional autonomy and separated from the surround- Mongolian, many places that travellers are
dance, song, horse-head fiddles and ing Töv aimag. likely to call will have an English speaker.) As
National Academic Veranda
contortionists at the National Academic Drama Theatre
From the 1930s, the Soviets built the city street addresses are not always obvious, it’s
Drama Theatre (p92) in typical Russian style: lots of ugly apart- best to navigate using the map in this book.
„ Get lost in the rambling hallways of the ment blocks, large brightly coloured thea- The train station is southwest of the centre.
Museum of Natural History (p69) until tres and cavernous government buildings. Bus 4 runs from here to Sükhbaatar Sq. The
you at last come face to face with the Tragically, the Soviets also destroyed many airport is 18km southwest of the city; to get
extraordinary dinosaur collection old Russian buildings as well as Mongolian to Sükhbaatar Sq take bus 11 or 22.
„ Enjoy a bottle of wine at Veranda (p88)
monasteries and temples. Today the city
while overlooking the Choijin Lama Winter Palace
booms with new private construction Maps
Temple Museum of the Bogd Khan projects although a comprehensive infra- There are several maps available of
structure plan has been slow to implement. Ulaanbaatar; the best is the 1:10,000
„ Weave through Mongolia’s ancient past It has also enjoyed cultural resurgence with Ulaanbaatar City Map (T5500), updated an-
at the National Museum of Mongolian History (p69) lots of museums, galleries, theatre perform- nually. On the back is a 1:200,000 map of the
ances and clubs bringing out the best in area around Ulaanbaatar. Maps can be found
„ TELEPHONE CODE: 011 „ POPULATION: ONE MILLION „ AREA: 1368 SQ KM traditional Mongolian culture. in bookshops and hotels.
 ULAANBAATAR 64 U L A A N B A ATA R lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • I n f o r m a t i o n 65

ULAANBAATAR
The best place to obtain maps is the

Pizza Della Casa...................(see 18)

Korean Air...........................(see 18)

D2

D1
D1

D1

D1

City Nomads .........................25 D2

Hazara...................................26 D2

Football Pitch.........................28 D4
Hollywood.............................29 D1

Sky Shopping Centre..............32 D1

Air China...............................33 D1
Metropolis...........................(see 32)
Sakura.................................(see 20)
A3

C4

A3

Office................................34 A3

Office................................35 A3
B3

B3

Strings....................................27 B2
E2

E2

E3
E2

Bonito....................................24 E2

Ismuss....................................30 E2

Wrestling Palace.....................31 E2
2 km

Cartography Co Map Shop (Map pp70-1; x9115 WI-FI ACCESS

Indoor Pool............................10

Museum.............................11

Union.................................12
Orchlon Gym.........................13
Railway Museum...................14
Ulaanbaatar City Museum......15

Khan..................................16

Centre................................17

Chinggis Khaan Hotel............18

Ciel Mongol...........................19
Khan Palace............................20
LG Guesthouse.......................21
Tiara Guesthouse...................22
Voyage Hotel.........................23

International Railway Ticketing

6023; Ikh Toiruu; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am- There are a growing number of wireless

Mongolian National Artists

Winter Palace of the Bogd

4pm Sat year-round, 10am-4pm Sun May-Sep) on Ikh

Domestic Railway Ticket

International Intellectual
hotspots in Ulaanbaatar. Cafés and restau-

Zaluus Youth & Cultural

1 mile

Toiruu, near the Elba Electronics shop. You rants that offer free (sometimes unstable)
F

ENTERTAINMENT
can also buy good topographic maps of wi-fi include the Grand Khaan Irish Pub

TRANSPORT
Mongolia here.

SHOPPING
(p89), Silk Road (p88), City Café (p87) and

SLEEPING
A more central map shop is the Gazaryn

EATING
Narya Café (p89). The best connection is at
Zurag Map Shop (Map pp70-1; x328 147, 9918 9182; Cho- Michele’s French Bakery (p89).
Burt Bldg, Seoul St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). It produces

Market
To General Office of
Border Protection (1km);
Mongolian Military

To Oasis Café &

Guesthouse (3km);
Bayanzurkh Avto
Vaksal (4km);
Nalaikh (33km);
Terelj (78km);
Öndörkhaan (330km)

Naran
To Bridge Mongolian
Language Center (600m);
Friends School (650m)
Museum (1.2km)

Tuul

Hovsgol Travel.........................(see 24)

DHL.............................................1 D2

US Embassy..................................6 D1
Yonsei Friendship Hospital........... 7 D2
Ceramo Dental Clinic ................(see 4)

Anklebone Shooting Area............ 8 C4

Archery Stadium.......................... 9 C4
Nomads Office (open in 2009).....2 B4
Russian Hospital No 2...................3 E2
SOS Medica Mongolia Clinic.........4 E1
UK Embassy..................................5 E2
its own maps, some of which are cheaper than
East Cross Rd

those of Cartography Co, but the selection is Internet Center (Map pp70-1; x327 438; Negdsen
much smaller and it doesn’t have topo maps. Undestnii Gudamj) Next to the Orange coffee shop.
Internet Centre (Map pp70-1;x312 512; Tserendor-
ὈὈ
ὈὈ j

24
Gudam
E

INFORMATION

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

jiin Gudamj 65; per hr T800; h9am-2am) One of the
20

Namyanjugiin
Gudamj
oiruu Bookshops
30 11

largest internet cafés with at least 35 computers.

B Dorjiin

INFORMATION
Ikh T
5

English-language bookshops in Mongolia are Orchuulin Tovchuu (Map pp70-1;x310 902; Baga
15

small and limited. Besides the following shops,

ö

Toiruu north; per hr T400; h9am-11pm) On the north-

ön Chölö

19
4

31

Tokyogiin Gudamj
you could try poking around the newspaper east bend of Baga Toiruu.
33

dyn Örg

kiosk in the CPO or the State Department Za Internet Café (Map pp70-1;x320 801; Peace
32 18

26
25
0
0

l
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Gol e Go
Selbe Selb Store (3rd and 5th floors). Ave 62; per hr T600; h24hr) Located 100m west of the
Zaluuchuu
17

Books in English (Map pp70-1; x9920 3360; Peace

Edelweiss

State Department Store.

10
13

Ave)
6

Hotel

Ave; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) Small

12

1
7
(Peace
D

Gudamj
Erkhuugiin
bookshop, located next to the Za Internet Café. Laundry
See Central Ulaanbaatar

iruu ö
iin Gudamj

Librairie Papillon (Map pp70-1; x331 859; Ikh

Bogd Khan Ger Camp (4km)

Baga To hölö
29

Zaisan Memorial (1.5km);

Almost all of the hotels in Ulaanbaatar

To Buddha Park (1.4km);

nC
ölöö

rgö
piin
Ö
Surguuliin Gudamj; h11am-8pm) Ulaanbaatar’s finest offer a laundry service for between T500
ön Ch

m
Oly
Map (pp70–1)

Nairamdal
Ὀ
bookshop, although almost everything is in French.
Academich
Sodnomyn

(Teeverchid

Naadam
Stadium

28
and T1500 per kilogram, but they may not
Gudamj

Park
y Örg

damj Nomin Ikh Delgur (Map pp70-1; x330 900; Baga

Sükhbaatar

uuliin Gu advertise it – so just ask. If you can be both-

Ikh Surg
Enkh Taivn
Sq

Toiruu east; h10am-8pm) This place is well-stocked in ered, it’s not difficult to do some laundry
8 9

ölöö
Örgön Ch
aryn Gu
damj
Chingisiin
Mongolian-language books and has a few English titles on yourself – the markets and shops sell small
Sükhbaat
the 2nd floor.
Narny (Sun) Gudamj

packets of detergent and bleach.

u

damj
Ikh Toiru

Xanadu (Map pp70-1; x319 748, 311 045; Marco Polo Metro Express (x470 789, 9919 4234) has 10
t)

j
dam
ul S
Juulchin Gu

16
Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö
C

Bldg; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Offers the best selection

Ὀ
Ὀ
Ὀ
Diplomatic Services

branches scattered across the city, including

j (Seo

l Gu

Chölöö
Corps Building

of fiction and nonfiction books in English, plus titles about

m

one next to the Dalai Eej supermarket (Map

d Go
Gol
Guda

Mongolia. It also carries a selection of Lonely Planet titles. pp70–1). A load of laundry costs T5500 and
Dun
Liberty

n Örgön
d
To Doloon Budal (4km);

rj

Dun
Sq

agdo
Khandgait (40km)

turn-around time is about four hours.

Nats

Emergency
Chingisii

It might take a few minutes to get hold of an

English speaker for these numbers. Left Luggage
ὈὈ
mj
Ch oimbolyn
Guda
Emergency aid/ambulance (x103) Most hotels and guesthouses can store lug-
Fire (x101) gage while you are off getting lost in the
Police emergency (x102) Gobi. There is usually no fee if you’ve stayed
B

Robbery Unit (x318 783) a few nights.

damj
October St

agiin Gu
23

Amarsana
damj

Gudamj)

Internet Access Libraries

ce Ave)
27

21
Zamchdyn Gu
Gandan

In Ulaanbaatar an internet café (Интэрнэт The National Library of Mongolia (Map pp70-1;
22 Nhiid
Little

(Teeverchidiin

Dund Gol

Кафэ) is never more than a block or two away,

Dund Gol Gudamj
(Pea

x322 396; Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; h9am-8pm) has a

34
ULAANBAATAR

Station
Damdinbazaryn Gudamj

14
gön Chölöö

Train

vast number of English-language books and

Chölöö

Magsarjavjiin
just look for the signs, which are usually in
To Chinggis Khaan
Zuunmod (40km)

documents; the trouble is accessing it. Texts

35

Gudamj English. Hourly rates are reasonable at about

amj

Airport (16km);
ön

Narny (Sun) Gud

Ard Ayush Ör

T400 to T800; but double that price at hotel are kept in storage and you need to fill out
ivny Örg

business centres. Connections are generally a small slip of paper (shefer) to request the
UB Golf Club (15km);
A

Jampa Ling Buddhist

To Asral & Kunchab

Avto Vaksal (4km);

good. You can scan photos in many places book you want. If you don’t have a library
Darkhan (219km)
Enkh Ta

To Dragon (Luu)
Centre (900m)

vyn Gudamj
Chinguunja for around T200. card (T4000) you’ll need to leave some ID
Internet café (Map pp70-1;x7010 2486; Peace Ave; for a deposit. Nearly all texts in English are
of the Mongolia genre.
2

3
1

per hr T600; h24hr) Located inside the CPO.

4
ULAANBAATAR 66 U L A A N B A ATA R • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • I n f o r m a t i o n 67

ULAANBAATAR
The American Center for Mongolian Studies on your credit card. Many banks in central grey building just west of the Mongolian Most mid- to top-range hotels have a fax that
(Aмерикийн Монгол Судлалын Төв; Map Ulaanbaatar even offer 24-hour services. The Military Museum. can be used by guests for about T1500 to T2000
pp70-1; x350 486; www.mongoliacenter.org; Mongolian bigger hotels also offer exchange services for per page. The CPO offers a less user-friendly
National University, Bldg 5, Room 304, Baga Toiruu; h10am- their guests. Avoid changing money with Police service, with cheaper rates. Hotels charge
5pm Mon-Fri) has a small library of books on street dealers at the markets: the rate is only The police can be found on Sambugiin Örgön around T500 to receive a fax on your behalf.
Mongolia. In summer, the centre also hosts slightly better than at official moneychangers Chölöö or on Negdsen Undestnii Gudamj
weekly lectures by Western academics, au- and you run the risk of being cheated. but, as in the rest of the country, don’t expect Toilets
thors and other people of interest (check the ATMs are popping up in many places much assistance. Public toilets can be found on Seoul St by the
UB Post for events). including the lobbies of the Ulaanbaatar, Natsagdorj Library and opposite California
Bayangol and Chinggis Khaan hotels, as well Post restaurant.
Media as department stores and supermarkets. Central Post Office (CPO, Töv Shuudangiin Salbar;
Democracy has brought an explosion of Both Golomt and Trade & Development Map pp70-1; x313 421; cnr Peace Ave & Sükhbaataryn Tourist Information
Mongolian-language newspapers, with contro- Bank (T&D Bank) will allow you to receive Gudamj; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) Discovery Mongolia Information Centre (Map pp70-1;
versies and scandals forming popular topics. money wired from abroad. It will cost the Located near the southwest corner of Sükhbaatar Sq. As you x319 371; Narny Gudamj; h10am-7pm) Sells maps and
Ulaanbaatar’s two English-language weekly sender US$50 to wire any amount of money; enter the main hall, the oversize-package desk is on the left books and provides general tourist info.
newspapers, Mongol Messenger and (the bet- there is no charge for receiving cash. For gen- and the Telecom office is to the right. The Postal Counter Hall Tourist Information Centre (Map pp70-1; x311
ter) UB Post, are well worth picking up for eral information on money, see p257. is the place to post mail and check poste restante (counter 423, 311 409; cnr Peace Ave & Sükhbaataryn Gudamj;
local news and entertainment information. Golomt Bank (Map pp70-1;x330 436; h24hr) No 1; letters are free but there’s a T300 charge to pick up a h9am-8pm) Located in the back hall of the CPO, this
Around-the-clock banking services. Changing travellers package, and you’ll need to show your passport). EMS ex- info desk has an English-speaking staff that can give
Medical Services cheques into tögrög carries a fee of 1.5%. You can get a press (priority) mail can also be sent from here. There is also general info on city tours and nationwide travel. The desk
While Ulaanbaatar may be a fairly healthy city, cash advance with no commission on Visa or MasterCard. a good range of postcards, small booklets about Mongolia in also sells books and maps about Mongolia. It has branches
its hospitals are abysmal and best avoided. There are six branches around town, including Seoul St and English and local newspapers for sale. Note that while open, at the airport and the train station.
The only really reliable place is SOS (listed just south of the corner of Juulchin Gudamj on Baga Toiruu. most services are nonexistent on Sunday. DHL and FedEx are
following) but full-blown emergencies are Khan Bank (Map pp70-1;x456 154; cnr Sambugiin more reliable than anything the CPO can offer. Travel Agencies
sent to Seoul or Beijing. Pharmacies (aptek; Örgön Chölöö & Baga Toiruu; h24hr) DHL (Map p64; x310 919; www.dhl.mn; Peace Ave 15a; Staff at backpacker guesthouses can help with
Аптек) are common in Ulaanbaatar, stock- Mongol Shuudan Bank (Map pp70-1;x310 103; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Near the Edelweiss visa registration and train tickets. All the
ing Mongolian, Russian, Chinese and Korean Kholboochdiin Gudamj 4; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Hotel. guesthouses mentioned in this book offer re-
medicine. Check expiry dates carefully. State Department Store (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave 44) FedEx (Map pp70-1; x312 092; [email protected]; liable help. For a small fee, some guesthouses
Russian Hospital No 2 (Map p64; x450 129, 450 Also has exchange booths. Amaryn Gudamj 2; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) In front of the even help visitors staying at other hotels.
230; cnr Peace Ave & Tokyogiin Gudamj) This is the best Trade & Development Bank (T&D Bank; Map pp70-1; Tuushin Hotel. A 500g letter to Australia is US$36; to the The Russian embassy usually refers trav-
Mongolian hospital in town, though it’s hardly the place x327 095; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Travellers cheques UK and USA it is US$45. ellers to Legend Tour (Map pp70-1; x315 158, 9984
you’d want to visit for a critical ailment. It’s 200m west of are changed into tögrög with a 1% fee or into US dollars 2999; www.legendtour.ru; Seoul St, Sant Asar Trading Centre;
the British embassy. Consultations cost US$10 to US$20. with a 2% fee. For foreigners, the place to do business is on Telephone & Fax h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) for visa help. Some
SOS Medica Mongolia Clinic (Map p64; x464 325; the 2nd floor of the main branch on the corner of Juulchin For local calls, you can use the phone at your travellers have given some negative feedback
4a Bldg, Big Ring Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) This clinic has Gudamj and Baga Toiruu. Here you also get a cash advance hotel, often for free. Other hotels, including about this operation, but it may be your only
a staff of Western doctors on call 24 hours (after hours call on your credit card; MasterCard carries a 4% commission, those with business centres, and some of the choice if you want that elusive Russian visa.
x9911 0335). Its services don’t come cheap (examina- Amex and Visa are both commission-free. The bank will also street stalls with telephones charge T100 for Make sure you are clear on the full itinerary
tions start from around US$195), but it’s the best place to replace lost Amex travellers cheques. A second branch is a call to a landline (six digits) or a mobile and any additional costs.
go in an emergency. located on Peace Ave, opposite the Ulaanbaatar Hotel. number (eight digits). You can also make The following agencies are good for or-
Yonsei Friendship Hospital (Map p64; x310 945; Valiut Ariljaa (Map pp70-1; Baga Toiruu west local calls from the CPO or at any number ganising air tickets. For details of local agen-
Peace Ave; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This South Korean– h8.30am-9pm) There are several exchange offices on of street-side peddlers whose entire business cies offering tours either within or outside of
sponsored clinic is fairly reliable and reasonably priced. this square, known by locals as Ard Kino. The exchange is selling phone calls on ubiquitous portable Ulaanbaatar, see p80.
English-speaking doctors are sometimes on hand and the offices here have some of the best rates in town. white phones. Air Market (Map pp70-1; x366 060, 9927 9114;
prices are very reasonable (less than T5000 for a consulta- Private, inexpensive international phone www.air-market.net; cnr Peace Ave & Chingisiin Örgön
tion). The hospital is located close to the Selbe Gol bridge. Permits offices (Olon Ulsiin Yariin) are sometimes Chölöö; h9am-8pm)
If you are travelling to border areas such as tucked into corners of shops, restaurants or Air Network (Map pp70-1; x322 222; airnetwork@
The best place for dental work is at Ceramo Altai Tavan Bogd National Park in Bayan- computer-game centres. One is located at magicnet.mn; Baga Toiruu west; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri,
Dental Clinic (Map p64; x464 330, 9666 0670) in Ölgii, the General Office of Border Protection Peace Ave 62, below the Za Internet Café (Map 10am-3pm Sat & Sun)
the same building as SOS Medica Mongolia (off Map p64; x286 788, 454 142; Border Defence Bldg; pp70–1). Calls are dirt cheap (ie T50 per minute Air Trans (Map pp70-1; x310 061, 313 131; airtrans@
Clinic. An optometrist is located on the 1st h 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri), in the east to the US or T100 per minute to Europe). Many magicnet.mn; cnr Sükhbaataryn Gudamj & Sambugiin
floor of the State Department Store. of the city, is the place to come for per- internet cafés are equipped with headsets and Örgön Chölöö; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
mits. Permits are free but you must send webcams for easy Skype calls. Very reliable air-ticketing agency.
Money a Mongolian on your behalf to apply. The International phone calls from the CPO Silk Road Network (Map pp70-1; x320 405;
You won’t have to go far to change cash or office requires a passport photocopy and a are more laborious and more expensive, but [email protected]; Peace Ave, east side of State
travellers cheques, or get a cash advance map showing your route. The office is in a it’s open all night. Department Store; h10am-8pm)
ULAANBAATAR 68 U L A A N B A ATA R • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • S i g h t s 69

ULAANBAATAR
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES noying than dangerous. Be sensible in bars and Museums of the exhibit captions in the museum are
Ulaanbaatar is a fairly carefree and easygoing nightclubs; you’re only asking for trouble if NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MONGOLIAN in English.
city and it’s unlikely you’ll experience any you flash around a lot of money or get into HISTORY МОНГОЛЫН ТҮҮХИЙН The second room contains some fine ex-
problems but there are a few concerns to keep arguments about the virtues or otherwise of YНДЭСНИЙ МУЗЕЙ amples of the sculptor’s work including five
in mind, chief among them are pickpockets Chinggis Khaan or other issues of sensitivity. Still sometimes referred to by its previous Dhyani, or Contemplation, Buddhas (cast in
and dangerous traffic. name, the Revolutionary Museum, this 1683) and Tara in her 21 manifestations.
Queues Mongolian history museum (Map pp70-1; x325 Also worth checking out are the wonderful
Theft It could be the warrior-like bloodlines from 656; cnr Juulchin Gudamj & Sükhbaataryn Gudamj; admis- tsam masks (worn by monks during religious
Pickpockets and bag slashers are a recent and Chinggis Khaan, a penchant for wrestling or sion T2500, photos T5000; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat) is an ceremonies) and the intricate paintings, One
growing problem, although theft is seldom habits from the communist days where de- Ulaanbaatar highlight. Day in Mongolia and the Airag Feast, by re-
violent against foreigners, just opportunistic. mand always exceeded supply, but Mongolians The recently renovated 1st floor has some nowned artist B Sharav. These depict almost
One guesthouse owner reported that 5% of his rarely queue – they bustle, huddle and scram- interesting exhibits on Stone Age sites in every aspect of nomadic life.
guests are ‘picked’ while in Ulaanbaatar. ble. You will often need to sharpen your el- Mongolia, as well as petroglyphs, deer stones Worthy of a visit in itself, the Red Ger Art
Crowded places are the trouble spots: getting bows, learn some appropriately argumentative (stone sculptures of reindeer and other ani- Gallery (x323 986) on the 1st floor showcases
onto a bus or getting held up in human traffic phrases in Mongolian, and plough headfirst mals) and burial sites from the Hun and modern artwork by Mongolia’s top contem-
at the Naran Tuul market. The worst time is through the throng. Being polite won’t really Uighur eras. porary painters. English-speaking guides are
around Naadam Festival when pickpockets help, nor will getting angry. The 2nd floor houses an outstanding col- available. From the gallery, continue towards
lurk around the Square and stadium – keep lection of costumes, hats and jewellery, rep- to the back of the building to find two more
close watch of your camera. Beware of pick- Traffic resenting most of Mongolia’s ethnic groups. halls, one featuring prints and the second
pockets who masquerade as coin sellers. Probably the most dangerous thing you can do Take a gander as some of the elaborate silver- containing folk art.
Pickpockets often work in teams; two or in Ulaanbaatar is cross the street. Pedestrian work of the Dariganga minority or the outra- The building itself carries some histori-
three will block your path and push from the rights are zilch so be careful when stepping geous headgear worn by Khalkh Mongols. cal value. It was built in 1906 and for many
front while another dives a hand into your off the curb. Drivers have a habit of speeding Some of the outfits contain 20kg to 25kg of years served as Ulaanbaatar’s biggest depart-
pockets. During winter, the pockets of bulging up when pedestrians are in the street – they silver ornamentation! ment store. Shortly after the 1921 Communist
coats are popular targets. are not really trying to kill you, it’s their way The 3rd floor is a must-see for fans of the Revolution, Soviet Red Army troops were
At Gandan Khiid, unsuspecting tourists, of warning you to look out. Be careful even Mongol horde. The collection includes real stationed here.
mesmerised by enchanting ceremonies, have when the traffic lights are in your favour. A examples of 12th-century Mongol armour,
been relieved of their money and passports. particularly dangerous crossing is right in and correspondence between Pope Innocent MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
The same goes for foreigners engrossed in front of the State Department Store. IV and Guyuk Khaan. Written in Latin and БАЙГАЛИЙН ТҮҮХИЙН МУЗЕЙ
computer screens at internet cafés. When pos- Persian and dated 13 November 1246, it bears This natural history museum (Map pp70-1; x321
sible, leave valuables in the safe in your hotel. Other Annoyances the khaan’s seal. The centrepiece is an enor- 716; cnr Sükhbaataryn Gudamj & Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö;
If you must take valuables on the street, use Virtually no stairways in the whole country mous model of ancient Karakorum, which is adult/student T2500/1000, photos T5000, video T10,000,
a money belt, and on public transport carry have lights, so carrying a torch (flashlight) quite astonishing to see if you’ve already been photos of dinosaur skeletons extra T5000; h10am-5.30pm,
your bag in front of you. You can even get a is a good idea, even during the day. Hot- to the site of Karakorum, of which almost closed Mon & Tue mid-Sep–mid-May) is a serious throw-
temporary safe-deposit box at one of the 24- water shortages and blackouts are common nothing remains. There is also a display of back to the Soviet era. It has exhibits featuring
hour Golomt Banks. throughout the year. traditional Mongolian culture with, among Mongolia’s geography, flora and fauna, in-
Most offices have security guards in the other things, a furnished ger, traditional cluding the requisite section with stuffed and
Violent Crime lobby checking the ID cards of everyone who farming and domestic implements, saddles embalmed animals, birds and even fish. The
Violent crime and muggings most often occur enters and leaves the buildings – it can some- and musical instruments. One hall features general impression, however, is that you’ve
in the darkened alleys, courtyards and ger dis- times be a nightmare getting past them. Police early-20th-century history; look out for the stumbled into the warehouse of a long-de-
tricts that lie off the well-lit boulevards. Avoid can also be unhelpful, see p254. very colourful Mongolian dollars, the first ceased taxidermist, rather than into a serious
these areas after dark. Foreigners should use The number of street children and beggars currency of the modern republic. scientific exhibition. Some of the animals have
an official taxi – as opposed to a private vehi- in Ulaanbaatar has noticeably decreased in been fixed with puzzling expressions, as if they
cle – for lifts around town late at night. recent years but there are still a few around. ZANABAZAR MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS remain perplexed as to how they ended up in
Be careful when leaving nightclubs in While it is better not to give anything as ЗАНАБАЗАРЫН УРАН ЗУРГИЙН МУЗЕЙ such an unfortunate state. In any case, bud-
Ulaanbaatar, where alcohol and comparatively this just encourages them to stay on the This fine arts museum (Map pp70-1; x326 060; ding geologists may appreciate the generally
rich foreigners are a potentially vulnerable mix- street, handing out food and drinks is better Juulchin Gudamj; adult/student T2500/1000; h10am-6pm stoic meteorites.
ture. Try to leave in a group rather than alone. than money. May-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Apr) has a superb collec- The most impressive section is the
tion of paintings, carvings and sculptures, Palaeontology Hall and its array of complete
Alcoholism SIGHTS including many by the revered sculptor and dinosaur skeletons, including a 3m-tall, 5-tonne,
Alcoholism is becoming less of a problem these Most sights are located within a 15-minute artist Zanabazar. It also contains other rare, flesh-eating tarbosaurus. For a bird’s-eye view,
days as beer rapidly replaces vodka as the local walk from Sükhbaatar Sq. The Winter Palace and sometimes old, religious exhibits such clamber up the stairs outside the hall to a gal-
beverage of choice. You’ll still encounter drunks of the Bogd Khan and the Zaisan Memorial as scroll thangka (paintings) and Buddhist lery on the 3rd floor.
in and around Ulaanbaatar, especially around are a short bus ride south of the city. Gandan statues, representing the best display of its The gallery that is next door to the hall
Naadam time, but they are usually more an- Khiid is about 2km to the northwest. kind in Mongolia. A bonus is that most is full of interesting knick-knacks, such as
ULAANBAATAR 70 U L A A N B A ATA R • • C e n t r a l U l a a n b a a t a r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • C e n t r a l U l a a n b a a t a r 71

ULAANBAATAR
0 500 m INFORMATION
CENTRAL ULAANBAATAR 0 0.3 miles
Active Mongolia...............................................(see 175)
A B C D E F Air Market............................................................. 1 D4
Air Network........................................................... 2 D3
59
174 95 Air Trans.................................................................3 E2
62
American Center for Mongolian Studies..................4 F1
Sa

e
qhe
m

119 Austrian Consulate................................................. 5 D4

bu

Nj
1 ÿfuf Njqhee my 1
ug

iruu no Books In English......................................................6 B4

Baga To

B÷
od sy
iin

128 h S mj jv
Ö

81 Canadian Consulate............................................... 7 D3

u
mic uda ly

iru
rg

176 e j
39 ad G
ön

C ;

To
A c x
b f v Cartography Co Map Shop ................................... 8 A4

ὈὈὈὈ
Ch

tv el

Ikh

Sükhbaat
fl U Chinese Embassy.....................................................9 F2
ö lö

Fr
ö

15 4
School Danish Consulate................................................. 10 D4
Cf

No 5
v

140
,e

Discovery Mongolia Information Centre............... 11 D6

aryn
lfv;
eu

50 l'cnybq Ue
23 Y'ulc'y “y
sy

Gadamj FedEx....................................................................12 F3
Undestnii
‚h

Negdsen 20 108
uš

Diplomatic Services French Embassy.................................................... 13 D4

Gudamj
y Xš

Corps Building 40 27 Gazaryn Zurag Map Shop.................................... 14 C5

kš
š

111
135 18 9 German Embassy...................................................15 E1
69
127 National University Golomt Bank........................................................16 B5

Ὀ ὈὈ
2 of Mongolia hölöö 2
167 rgön C Golomt Bank........................................................ 17 D3
159 Liberty udyn Ö
Zaluuchulsy ‚hušy Xškš
š
Sq 3 117 Happy Camel...................................................(see 118)
74 Pfke ex ee
33

C”÷,ffnfh
186 24 Institute of International Studies............................18 E2

Ikh Surg
66 Parliament
Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö Cfv,eeusy ‚hušy Xškšš Gardens International Language Centre............................. 19 A4
104
114 41 37 International Phone Office..................................(see 53)

sy Uelfv;

uuliin Gu
64 Internet Café......................................................(see 42)
Zanabazar

Baruun Sek,' Uelfv;

Öndör Ge Gudamj

ÿfheey C'

56 78 Internet Center......................................................20 E2
Nšvšhxbqy Uel
Tömörchiin Gu fv;

da
12 Internet Centre..................................................... 21 C5

Baga To
137

mj
Ὀ ὈὈὈ
120
yn

Gudamj 57 Japanese Embassy.................................................22 F4

Amaryn Uelfv;
lbe Gudamj

75
geen

Ikh Khuree
General 60 Fvfhsy Juulchin..............................................................(see 87)

B÷ Cehuee
Zurkhain 141 82

iruu
Intelligence 76
Datsan 47 Kazakhstan Embassy.............................................23 C2
Agency 154
134 149 187
damj

86 Japanese Khan Bank............................................................24 C2

3 xby Uelfv; 28 3

ÿfuf Njqh
91 172 eek Garden Sükhbaatar

kbqy Uelf
damj :
Juulchin Gu 96 125 Sq 72 Khövsgöl Lodge Company................................... 25 D5

Baga Toiru
150 17 145
Mall
‚ylšh U'u''y

Lamrin Süm Urt Tsagaan 162 63

168 30 79 180 Labour Registration Department.........................(see 41)
55 184 City MPRP 107

ee
Legend Tour......................................................... 26 C5

v;
151 Jigjidjavanyn Hall 157 Headquarters
2 Gudamj Bodicom Librairie Papillon....................................................27 E2
u ÿfuf Nj

ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Tower 7 70 Magicnet............................................................(see 33)
Pfyf,fpfhsy

31 73
103 Metro Express..................................................(see 132)
Choimbo ksy Uelfv;

67 51 Kholboochdyn )
65 54
94 Gudamj ce Ave 46 Ministry of Enlightenment.....................................28 F3
Xjqv,j

qhe

Flower ea
130 ölöö (P
100 ön Ch
92 Centre øjk,jjxlsy
48 Ministry of External Relations................................29 F4
e

y Örg
Uelfv;

171 5 Uelfv; 42 Taivn

lyn Gud

112 121 118 143 49 13 Enkh Ministry of Nature & Environment......................(see 28)
58 161 29
19 109 Peace &
166 178 169 Costume damj
Mongol Messenger.............................................. 30 D3
8 Friendship 99 35 44 1 71 147 og Gu
amj

Museum Mongol Shuudan Bank......................................... 31 D3

105 Building Xškšš 182 Choid ju Uelfv;
98 ys ‚hušy 80 Xjql
4 165 36 e) "y÷ Nfqd 177 Gudam
j 155 4 Mongolia Expeditions...........................................32 E4
136 (Peace Av 144 175 148 Gunii
ön Chölöö

ὈὈὈὈ
Ö rg Jamyn U”ybq Uelf
v; 84 National Information & Technology Park...............33 F2
y St
Enkh Taivn
Khaddorjiin Gudamj

53 22
133
102 6 173 126 :fvzy b assy
mj n Em
45 National Library of Mongolia................................34 E4
Guda
Tserendor qy Uelfv;

110
Yfvyfyc”

W'h'yljh;b

106 43 93 eniin eig

139 Gend For Nomadic Expeditions............................................35 B4
Namnansh'yubqy Uelfv;

34
Partizan

170
Gfhnbpfy

179 Russian 61
Compound 123 32 85 Nomadic Journeys............................................(see 167)
Nomads................................................................36 B4
jiin Guda

v; 131
Gudam

urengiin

Uelf 10
Uelfv;

Cš”k 152 Nomin Ikh Delgur..................................................37 F2

St)
185 122 Police oul 89
m j (Se 183 138 Office of Immigration, Naturalization & Foreign

Jk
mj
j

Oly vgbq
ud a
153 G 25
Gudamj

dorj Citizens (INFC)..................................................38 D6

b
101 ag

mp y ‚
163 21
142 Nats 14

ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
113 Orchuulin Tovchuu................................................39 E1

iin
164 26 88

Örg ušy X
Natsagdorj 181 146 Police....................................................................40 E2
Gudamj (Se

ön
h
oul St) Cj'k Natsagdorj Police Headquarters.............................................. 41 D2
Undsen Kh

5 Uelfv; 90 5

Chö kšš
Library Post Office Central................................................42 E4
116 129 87

š
löö
115 16 Nairamdal Radiant Sky........................................................(see 99)
Xbyubcbqy ‚hu Chölöö

Park Russian Embassy................................................... 43 C4

šy Xškšš
uulin Guda

158 Samar Magic Tours...........................................(see 121)

Örgön

Silk Road Network................................................ 44 C4

ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
South Korean Embassy..........................................45 F4
mj

Chingisiin

amj 83 Telecom Office...................................................(see 42)

Zamchdyn Gud 160
Pfvxlsy Uel
fv; Tourist Information Centre.................................(see 42)
“ylc'y øeekb

132 124
Trade & Development Bank..................................46 F4
52 156 Trade & Development Bank................................. 47 D3
97 Tseren Tours........................................................ 48 C4
68 38
qy Uelfv;

6 6 Tsolmon Travel ................................................(see 175)

11
188 Uelfv; Turkish Embassy................................................... 49 D4
N''d'hxblbqy
n Gudamj)
(Teeverchidii UN Development Program................................... 50 D2
rchidiin Guda Narny (Su n) Gudamj
Gudamj (Teeve mj) Valiut Ariljaa (Ard Kino)....................................... 51 D4
Narny (Sun)
Gol Wind of Mongolia................................................ 52 B6
N''d'hxblbqy Uelfv; 77 Dund
Continued on p72
ULAANBAATAR 72 U L A A N B A ATA R • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • S i g h t s 73

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Continued from p71 Kharaa Hotel........................... 98 A4 Detroit Bar........................(see 113) VICTIMS OF POLITICAL PERSECUTION heading west. It’s on the left side of the alley. If
Xanadu.................................(see 131) Khongor Guest House.............99 B4 Dublin.................................146 B5 MEMORIAL MUSEUM the museum is locked, try ringing or ask at the
Za Internet Café........................53 B4 Mandukhai Hotel..................100 B4 Greenland............................147 E4 This little-known museum (Map pp70-1; x320 592; front desk of the General Intelligence Agency
Mongolian Properties............ 101 C5 Khan Brau............................148 E4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Narantuul Hotel.................... 102 A4 Level.................................(see 109)
cnr Gendeniin Gudamj & Olympiin Örgön Chölöö; admission (GIA) headquarters on Juulchin Gudamj.
0 Kilometre Marker...................54 E4 Nassan's Guest House........... 103 D3 UB Club...............................149 C3 US$2, photos US$5, video US$10; h9am-5pm) consists of The International Intellectual Museum (Map
Arts Council of Mongolia.......... 55 C3 Puma Imperial.......................104 E2 a series of haunting displays that chronicle the p64; x461 470; www.iqmuseum.mn; Peace Ave 10; ad-
Bakula Rinpoche Süm................56 B3 Seoul Hotel...........................105 B4 ENTERTAINMENT bloody communist purges of the 1930s – an
Central Sports Palace.................57 F3 UB Guesthouse.....................106 B4 Face Club............................150 C3
mission T3000; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat), also known
Centre of Shaman Eternal Heavenly Ulaanbaatar Hotel.................107 F3 History Club.........................151 B3 aggressive campaign to eliminate ‘counter- as the Mongolian Toy Museum, is in a pink
Sophistication........................58 A4 Zaluuchuud Hotel..................108 F2 Muse.................................(see 140) revolutionaries’. During the campaign, intel- building behind the round ‘East Centre’.
Children's Art & Creation Zaya Backpacker Hostel........ 109 B4 National Academic Drama lectuals were arrested and put on trial, sent It has a collection of puzzles and games
Centre...................................59 E1 Theatre............................152 E5
Chinggis Khaan Statue..............60 E3 EATING Oasis................................... 153 C5
to Siberian labour camps or shot. Mongolia made by local artists. One puzzle requires
Choijin Lama Temple Museum..61 E4 Ala Turka.............................. 110 B4 Palace of Culture..................154 E3 lost its top writers, scientists and thinkers. 56,831 movements to complete, says curator
Dashchoilon Khiid......................62 F1 Ananda Café & Meditation River Sounds........................155 F4 One hall reveals this tragedy most vividly Zandraa Tumen-Ulzii.
Federation for the Preservation of Centre............................... 111 C2 Silence...............................(see 114)
Mahayana Tradition (FPMT).. 63 C3 Ba Shu Restaurant................. 112 C4 State Circus......................... 156 C6
with a display of human skulls pierced with The Railway Museum (Map p64; x944 493;
Gandan (Gandantegchinlen) BD's Mongolian Barbeque.....113 A5 State Opera & Ballet bullet holes. Octoberyn Gudamj; admission free; h9am-noon & 1-4pm
Khiid..................................... 64 A2 Berlin.................................... 114 C2 Theatre............................157 E3 The museum was inspired by the deeds Mon-Fri) is great for kids and railway buffs. It
Ger to Ger Head Office............ 65 C4 Brau Haus..............................115 B5 State Youth & Children's of former prime minister P Genden, who is about 400m northeast of the station. Other
Gesar Süm................................66 B2 Café Amsterdam...................(see 44) Theatre............................158 E5
Hunting Museum..................... 67 A4 California..............................116 B5 Tengis.................................159 B2 was executed in Moscow by the Komitet train-spotting options include the old train
Karakorum Expeditions............. 68 C6 Casablanca...........................(see 87) Tsuki House........................ 160 C6 Gosudarstvennoy Bezopasnosti (KGB; engines (Map pp70–1) parked in front of the
Lenin Museum.......................... 69 C2 CCCP....................................117 E2 Zouq....................................161 E4 Committee for State Security) in 1937 for Jiguur Grand hotel.
Lenin Statue..............................70 F3 Chez Bernard........................ 118 C4
Mongolian Artists' Exhbition Chinggis Club....................... 119 D1 SHOPPING
refusing Stalin’s orders to carry out the The Theatre Museum (Map pp70-1; x311 320;
Hall.......................................71 E4 City Café..............................(see 71) Amarbayasgalant Antique... 162 C3 purge. Stalin found a more willing puppet in Amaryn Gudamj; admission T1000; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) is
Mongolian National Modern Art Container Market..................120 B3 Argasun.............................. 163 A5 Marshall Choibalsan, whose purge ended in worthwhile if you’re interested in the dramatic
Gallery..................................72 F3 El Latino................................ 121 C4 Ayanchin Outfitters............. 164 A5 the deaths of more than 28,000 Mongolians, arts – the collection of puppets is wonderful.
Mongolian Stock Exchange...... 73 D3 Emerald Bay.......................... 122 C5 Canon Showroom...............165 B4
Museum of Natural History...... 74 D2 Grand Khaan Irish Pub.......... 123 D4 Computerland.....................166 B4 mostly lamas. The house containing the mu- The museum is on the 3rd floor of the Palace
Museum of the General Intelligence Ikh Mongol........................... 124 C6 Egshiglen Magnai National Musical seum once belonged to Genden and it was his of Culture (its entrance is on the northern
Agency................................. 75 D3 Indra..................................... 125 D3 Instrument Shop.............. 167 D2 daughter, Tserendulam, who converted it into side of building).
National Museum of Mongolian Khaan Buuz...........................126 B4 Eternal Art Antique Shop...(see 167)
History.................................. 76 D3 Le Bistro Français...................127 E2 Fuji Film.............................. 168 D3
a museum in 1996. The Hunting Museum (Map pp70-1; Öndör Gegeen
Old Train Engines..................... 77 D6 Los Bandidos..........................128 E1 Gobi Cashmere Shop.......... 169 C4 The large, white square building located just Zanabazaryn Gudamj; admission T1000; h10am-5pm Mon-
Parliament (Government) Marco Polo...........................129 B5 Mon Nip Camera Shop....... 170 A4 southwest of the museum, is called the Wedding Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), on the 2nd floor of the Baigal
House....................................78 E3 Michele's French Bakery....... 130 C4 Möngön Zaviya................... 171 C4 Palace (Map pp70-1; Khurimiin Ordon). Built in 1976 by
Statue of Sükhbaatar.................79 E3 Millie's Café..........................131 E4 Nomads Culture Antique
Ordon (Nature Palace) on the street leading to
Statue of Zorig..........................80 E4 Minii Delguur, Passage & Merkuri Shop............................... 172 C3 the Russians, it has since been used for tens of Gandan Khiid, shows off centuries-old trap-
Tasgany Ovoo...........................81 B1 Markets............................ 132 B6 Northland............................173 B4 thousands of wedding ceremonies, including ping and hunting techniques that are used by
Theatre Museum.......................82 F3 Mokran Pyongyang Pro Shack.............................174 C1 the marital vows of a few foreigners. both nomads and urban cowboys. It’s usually
Titan Fitness............................. 83 D6 Restaurant........................ 133 A4 Red Ger Art Gallery.............(see 86)
Victims of Political Persecution Narya Café............................134 C3 Seven Summits................... 175 D4 locked so ask for the key from the ladies run-
Memorial Museum................84 F4 Nomad Legends Mongol Shonkhor Saddles................176 C1 OTHER MUSEUMS ning the hotel downstairs.
Wedding Palace........................85 E4 Club................................. 135 D2 Souvenir House................... 177 C4
Zanabazar Museum of Fine Pizza Della Casa....................136 B4 State Department Store....... 178 C4
The Ulaanbaatar City Museum (Map p64; x450 960;
Arts...................................... 86 C3 Sacher's Café........................ 137 D3 Tsagaan Alt Wool Shop.......179 B4 Peace Ave; admission T1500; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) offers Monasteries & Temples
Shilla..................................... 138 D5 a brief but insightful view of Ulaanbaatar’s Around the start of the 19th century, more
SLEEPING Silk Road Bar & Grill..............139 E4 TRANSPORT history through old maps and photos. The than 100 süm (temples) and khiid (monaster-
Bayangol Hotel..........................87 E5 Soyolj.....................................140 F1 Aero Mongolia....................180 F3
Chinggis Guesthouse................ 88 D5 Stupa Café............................(see 63) Aeroflot...............................181 B5 most interesting item is a huge painting of ies) served a population of only about 50,000
Continental Hotel......................89 F5 Taj Mahal.............................(see 87) Blue Sky Aviation................ 182 D4 the capital as it looked in 1912, in which you in Ulaanbaatar. Only a handful survived the
Corporate Hotel........................90 E5 Taliin Mongol....................... 141 D3 EZ Nis................................. 183 D5 can clearly make out major landmarks such religious purges of 1937. Only since the early
Gana's Guest House................. 91 A3 UB Deli................................. 142 C5 MIAT Airline Head Office.... 184 D3 1990s have the people of Mongolia started to
Genex Hotel............................. 92 A4 Werner's Deli......................(see 132) Sixt Mongolia...................... 185 A5
as Gandan Khiid and the Winter Palace of
GobiTours & Guesthouse......... 93 D4 Zochin Buuz.......................... 143 C4 Sixt Mongolia........................(see 7) Bogd Khan. openly practise Buddhism again.
Golden Gobi............................. 94 C4 Taxi Stand........................... 186 C2 The Museum of the General Intelligence
Guide House Hotel ...................95 F1 DRINKING Taxi Stand........................... 187 C3 GANDAN KHIID ГАНДАН ХИЙД
Hotel Örgöö............................. 96 D3 Crystal Lounge...................... 144 C4 Teeveriin Tovchoo.............. 188 A6
Agency (Map pp70-1; x264 281, 5126 4281; admission
Idre's Guest House................... 97 A6 Dave's Place..........................145 E3 United Airlines.......................(see 3) T1000; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) is dedicated to the This monastery (Gandantegchinlen Khiid; Map pp70-1;
Mongolian version of the KGB and the spy Öndör Gegeen Zanabazaryn Gudamj; admission free; h9am-
game dating back to the Chinggis Khaan 9pm) is one of Mongolia’s most important,
petrified wood, dinosaur eggs and some huge (probably when a sand dune collapsed on era. The curators are retired secret service and also one of its biggest tourist attractions.
leg bones, which look like something out top of them) in the midst of mortal com- agents and will provide colourful insight on The full name, Gandantegchinlen, translates
of the Flintstones. Look out for the world- bat, some 80 million years ago. For more some of the photographs (all captions are in roughly as ‘the great place of complete joy’.
famous ‘fighting dinosaurs’, a velociraptor on Mongolia’s remarkable dinosaurs see the Mongolian). To get there, walk behind the Building was started in 1838 by the fourth
and protoceratops that were buried alive boxed text, p206. National Museum and down a narrow alley Bogd Gegeen, but like most monasteries in
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the other temples. Try to be there for the the view of the complex is hindered by ugly
ZORIG – THE FATHER OF MONGOLIAN DEMOCRACY captivating ceremonies – they usually start buildings that now form its backdrop.
While Mongolia’s 1990 pro-democracy demonstrations were gathering steam, a mob appeared at around 10am, though you may be lucky Still, Choijin Lama is well worth a visit. It
on Sükhbaatar Sq, poised to lay siege to the Parliament House and the meagre police force and see one at another time. Most chapels are was the home of Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama
protecting it. Foreseeing a bloodbath, activist leader Sanjaasurengiin Zorig clambered onto the closed in the afternoon. (‘Choijin’ is an honorary title given to some
shoulders of his comrades and ordered the demonstrators to sit, and they listened. Pickpockets sometimes target the monks), the state oracle and brother of the
The image of Zorig pacifying the crowd from the steps of the Parliament House became monastery, so take care, especially when Bogd Khan. The construction of the monastery
iconic of the 1990 Revolution, and said much about the man’s persona. A pragmatist and a among crowds. commenced in 1904 and was completed four
negotiator, Zorig was known for his ability to find common ground between party officials and years later. It was closed in 1938 and probably
the agitators on the street. WINTER PALACE OF BOGD KHAN would have been demolished but it was saved as
Like other young reformers of his generation, Zorig was Moscow-educated and the son of a БОГД ХААНЫ ӨВЛИЙН ОРДОН a museum in 1942 to demonstrate the ‘feudal’
prominent Mongolian People’s Revolutionary Party (MPRP) member; he was well placed to lead Built between 1893 and 1903, this palace (Map ways of the past. Although religious freedom in
Mongolia through of confusion of its transformation from a communist state to a democracy and p64; x342 195; Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; admission T2500, Mongolia recommenced in 1990, this monas-
market economy. For his efforts he was known as the ‘Golden Magpie of Democracy.’ photos US$10, video US$15; h9am-5.30pm summer, 9.30am- tery is no longer an active place of worship.
On 2 October 1998, the 36-year-old Zorig, was stabbed 18 times by masked assailants in his 4.30pm Fri-Tue winter) is the place where Mongolia’s There are five temples within the grounds.
apartment. The incident occurred during a period of political instability, and he was the likely eighth Living Buddha, and last king, Jebtzun As you enter, the first temple you see is the
candidate for the vacant position of prime minister. Damba Hutagt VIII (often called the Bogd Maharaja Süm. The main temple features statues
The killers have never been brought to justice, though his death is linked to a corrupt casino Khan), lived for 20 years. For reasons that are of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha), Choijin
deal, which he helped to block. A decade on, the government and police have revealed few unclear, the palace was spared destruction by Lama and Baltung Choimba (the teacher of
clues as to their findings. the Russians and turned into a museum. The the Bogd Khan), whose mummified remains
The murder came as a great shock to the Mongolian people, who lined the streets in their summer palace, on the banks of Tuul Gol, was are inside the statue. There are also some fine
tens of thousands for the burial procession. A statue of Zorig was unveiled on his birthday, 20 completely destroyed. thangka and some of the best tsam masks
April, in 1999 opposite the Central Post Office, to honour his legacy. There are six temples in the grounds. The in the country. The gongkhang (protector
Zorig’s efforts to fight corruption have been carried on by his sister Oyun, who left her job white building to the right as you enter is the chapel) behind the main hall contains the
as a geologist to win Zorig’s seat in parliament. She now heads her own political party, as well Winter Palace itself. It contains a collection oracle’s throne and a magnificent statue of
as the Zorig Foundation (www.zorigfoundation.org.mn), which promotes democracy, transparency of gifts received from foreign dignitaries, such yab-yum (mystic sexual union).
and good governance in Mongolia. as a pair of golden boots from a Russian tsar, The other temples are Zuu Süm, dedicated
a robe made from 80 unfortunate foxes and to Sakyamuni; Yadam Süm, which contains
a ger lined with the skins of 150 snow leop- wooden and bronze statues of various gods,
Mongolia the purges of 1937 fell heavily on May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr), the monastery’s main ards. Mongolia’s Declaration of Independence some created by the famous Mongolian sculp-
Gandan. When the US Vice President Henry attraction. Lining the walls of the temple are (from China) is among the exhibits. tor Zanabazar; and Amgalan Süm, containing a
Wallace asked to see a monastery during his hundreds of images of Ayush, the Buddha of The Bogd Khan’s penchant for unusual self-portrait of Zanabazar himself and a small
visit to Mongolia in 1944, then prime minister longevity, which stare through the gloom to wildlife explains the extraordinary array of stupa apparently brought to Ulaanbaatar by
Choibalsan guiltily scrambled to open this one the magnificent Migjid Janraisig statue. stuffed animals in the palace. Some of it had Zanabazar from Tibet.
to cover up the fact that he had recently laid The original statue was commissioned by been part of his personal zoo – look out for Free cultural performances are held here
waste to Mongolia’s religious heritage. The the eighth Bogd Khan in 1911, in hopes that the photo of the Bogd’s elephant, purchased in summer at 5pm; this is a great chance to
khiid remained a ‘show monastery’ for other it might restore his eyesight – syphilis had from Russia for 22,000 roubles. see tsam-mask dancing and listen to khöömii
foreign visitors until 1990 when full religious blinded him; however it was carted away by The Winter Palace is a few kilometres south (throat singing). The complex is located off
ceremonies commenced. Today, more than Russia in 1937 (it was allegedly melted down of the Square. It is a bit too far to walk, so Jamyn Gunii Gudamj, with the entrance on
600 monks belong to the monastery. to make bullets). The new statue was dedi- take a taxi or catch bus 7 or 19. A booklet the south side.
As you enter the main entrance from the cated in 1996 and built with donations from (T2200), available at the entrance, gives a very
south, a path leads towards the right to a Japan and Nepal. It is 26m high and made of brief explanation of the temples in English, CENTRE OF SHAMAN ETERNAL HEAVENLY
courtyard containing two temples. The north- copper with a gilt gold covering. The hollow and includes a handy map showing the SOPHISTICATION МӨНХ ТЭНГЭРИЙН
east building is Ochidara Temple (sometimes statue contains 27 tonnes of medicinal herbs, temple locations. ШИД БӨӨ ШҮТЭЭНИЙ ТӨВ
called Gandan Süm) where the most signifi- 334 sutras, two million bundles of mantras, Ulaanbaatar’s official Shaman Centre (Map pp70-1;
cant ceremonies are held. Following the kora plus an entire ger with furniture! CHOIJIN LAMA TEMPLE MUSEUM x9994 3609; Öndör Gegeen Zanabazaryn Gudamj; admission
(pilgrim) path clockwise around this building, To the east of the temple are four colleges ЧОЙЖИН ЛАМЫН ХИЙД-МУЗЕЙ free; h10am-6pm Sun-Fri May-Sep) is a ramshackle
the large statue behind glass is Tsongkhapa, the of Buddhist philosophy, including the yellow This temple museum (Map pp70-1; x324 788; collection of squalid gers teetering on the
founder of the Gelugpa sect. The two-storey building dedicated to Kalachakra, a wrathful http://choijin.on.mn; admission T2500, photos T5500, video slope that leads to Gandan Monastery. While
Didan-Lavran temple in the courtyard was home Buddhist deity. T12,000; h9am-6.30pm mid-May–Sep, 10am-4pm Oct– not particularly mystifying at first sight, this
to the 13th Dalai Lama during his stay here To the west of the temple is the Öndör Gegeen mid-May) is a hidden gem of architecture and is the real deal, with a bona fide shaman at
in 1904. Zanabazar Buddhist University, established in history, smack in the middle of downtown its helm, holding daily court. The resident
At the end of the main path as you enter 1970. It is usually closed to foreigners. Ulaanbaatar. Sadly, it’s under threat of losing shaman, Zorigtbaatar, is known for his
is the magnificent white Migjid Janraisig Süm You can take photos around the monastery its quaint character, as shoddily constructed fiery orations that rile up the faithful into a
(admission T2500, photos T5000, video T10,000; h9am-6pm and in Migjid Janraisig Süm, but not inside buildings are thrown up all around it. Already frenzy. There are two gers: one that honours
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the shamanic spirits and another that rep- Art Galleries
licates nature, complete with a small lake, As well as music, Mongolians love the visual ULAANBAATAR’S ONE MILLIONTH CITIZEN: NO CAUSE FOR CELEBRATION
trees and stuffed animals. It is in the nature arts, and there are a number of galleries in When Ulaanbaatar’s official population hit one million people in 2007, the city authorities decided
ger where the shaman performs his dance. Ulaanbaatar worth visiting. this milestone was cause for celebration. Three newborns were credited as the city’s official mil-
If there is a ceremony going on, and you lionth citizens, an honour that earned each a set of keys to brand new apartments.
want your fortune told, you’ll need to make MONGOLIAN NATIONAL MODERN ART But who really deserved such a title? Quaint as it may be to honour the newborns, Ulaanbaatar’s
a small donation. GALLERY МОНГОЛЫН УРАН ЗУРГИЙН one millionth citizen was more likely an internal migrant from the countryside, arriving in the
ҮЗЭСГЭЛЭН capital without money or prospects for work.
OTHER MONASTERIES & TEMPLES Sometimes called the Fine Art Gallery (Map pp70-1; The statistics tell the truth behind the city smokescreen – from 2004 to 2007 Ulaanbaatar’s
Belonging to Gandan Khiid, Gesar Süm (Map x331 687; admission T2000, photos T5000, video T10,000; population has increased by 12% while the population of rural aimags decreased on average
pp70-1; x313 148; cnr Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö & Ikh Toiruu h10am-6pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr), it contains by 1% to 3%. Töv aimag has been hardest hit by the problem, losing more than 20% of its
west; admission free; h9am-8pm) is named after the a large and impressive display of modern and population.
mythical Tibetan king. The lovely temple is uniquely Mongolian paintings and sculptures. While a better life in the city may seem attractive to Mongolia’s rural poor, the rapid urbani-
a fine example of Chinese-influenced archi- It has a mixture of depictions of nomadic sation of the country is having a critical impact on several fronts. Ulaanbaatar’s infrastructure
tecture. It is a popular place for locals to re- life, people and landscapes, ranging from is unable to cope with the influx of cars and people. Traffic jams wreak havoc while expanding
quest, and pay for, puja (a blessing ceremony). impressionistic to nationalistic. The Soviet ger (yurt) districts crawl up once-virgin hillsides. Air pollution in winter is 10 times higher than
Allegedly, the temple was placed here to stop romantic paintings depicted in thangka style healthy levels.
the movement of the hill behind it, which was are especially interesting, but the most famous Meanwhile, the newly arrived migrants are not finding life in Ulaanbaatar to be much easier
slowly creeping towards the centre of the city. work is Tsevegjav Ochir’s 1958 The Fight of than the countryside. In 2006, only 2.5% of the internal migrants to Ulaanbaatar found permanent
It’s easy to visit the temple as it lies between the Stallions. housing. The highly touted 40,000 homes project, which seeks to build apartments for low-income
Gandan and the city centre. The entrance is in the courtyard of the families, proceeds at a pace too slow to keep up with demand. If current trends continue, half
Tasgany Ovoo (Map pp70–1), about 300m Palace of Culture. The main gallery is on the of the national population will live in Ulaanbaatar within 10 years.
north of Gesar Süm, is worth a look if you 3rd floor, there are temporary exhibits on the Leaders do recognise this growing problem although little has been done to stem the tide of
haven’t yet seen an ovoo, a sacred pyramid- 2nd floor and a shop on the 1st floor. internal migrants. Current business policies and infrastructure make it almost impossible to do
shaped collection of stones. serious business anywhere but Ulaanbaatar and the national road-development scheme is basi-
The Bakula Rinpoche Süm (Map pp70-1; x322 OTHER ART GALLERIES cally designed to funnel traffic, and people, into the capital. Unless serious regional development
366; admission free; h9am-6pm), also known as the A unique cultural experience in Ulaanbaatar plans are worked out the situation seems destined to only grow worse.
Pethub Stangey Choskhor Ling Khiid, was is a visit to the studios of the Mongolian National
founded in 1999 by the late Indian ambassa- Artists Union (Уран Бутээлчдийн Урлан; Map
dor, himself a reincarnate lama from Ladakh. p64; x325 849; www.uma.mn; cnr Erkhuugiin Gudamj & Ikh Other Sights The enormous marble construction on the
The Rinpoche’s ashes were interred inside a Toiruu; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm). The artists are wel- SÜKHBAATAR SQUARE north end was completed in 2006 in time for
golden stupa inside the temple in July 2004. coming and you can offer to buy their work on СУХБААТАРЫН ТАЛБАЙ the 800-year anniversary of Chinggis Khaan’s
The monastery, used mainly as a centre for the spot. It’s in a blue building with a bronze In July 1921 in the centre of Ulaanbaatar, the coronation. At its centre is a seated bronze
Buddhist teaching, also has a Centre for Buddhist statue of a seated monk above the door. The ‘hero of the revolution’, Damdin Sükhbaatar, Chinggis Khaan statue lording over his nation.
Medicine (x9199 7894; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Arts Council of Mongolia (Map pp70-1; xreservations declared Mongolia’s final independence from He is flanked by Ögedei (on the west) and
Sat). The monastery is not a must-see unless 319 015; www.artscouncil.mn; cnr Juulchin Gudamj & Baruun the Chinese. The Square (Map pp70–1) now Kublai (east). Two famed Mongol soldiers
you are interested in learning about tradi- Selbe Gudamj) conducts tours here for US$25 per bears his name and features a statue of him (Boruchu and Mukhlai) guard the entrance
tional medicine. The complex is located where group of five. astride his horse. The words he apparently pro- to the monument.
Ikh Toiruu meets Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö, If you want to see more Mongolian art, claimed at the time are engraved on the bottom Behind the Ghengis monument stands
behind the Container Market. and maybe buy some, head into the Mongolian of the statue: ‘If we, the whole people, unite in Parliament House, which is commonly known
Dashchoilon Khiid (Map pp70-1; x350 047; Academich Artists’ Exhibition Hall (Монголын Зураачдын our common effort and common will, there will as Government House. An inner courtyard of
Sodnomyn Gudamj; admission free) was originally built Yзэсгэлэн Танхим; Map pp70-1; x327 474; cnr Peace be nothing in the world that we cannot achieve, the building actually holds a large ceremonial
in 1890, but was destroyed in the late 1930s. Ave & Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; admission free; h9am-6pm), that we will not have learnt or failed to do.’ ger used for hosting visiting dignitaries.
The monastery was partially rebuilt and is on the 2nd floor of the white marble building Sükhbaatar would have been very disap- To the northeast of the Square is the tall,
now located in three huge concrete gers that diagonally opposite the CPO. This is a rotat- pointed to learn that the Square was also modern Palace of Culture, a useful landmark
once formed part of the State Circus. There ing collection of modern and often dramatic where the first protests were held in 1990, containing the Mongolian National Modern
are plans afoot to expand the monastery to paintings, carvings, tapestries and sculptures. which eventually led to the fall of communism Art Gallery and several other cultural institu-
include a six-storey building which will house The displays often change and there’s a good in Mongolia. Today, the Square is occasionally tions. At the southeast corner of the Square,
a 17m-high statue of Maidar. So far, the only souvenir shop. used for rallies, ceremonies and even rock the salmon-pinkish building is the State Opera
part of the statue to exist is the 108-bead ro- The Children’s Art & Creation Centre (Map concerts, but is generally a serene place where & Ballet Theatre.
sary, donated by monks from Japan (each pp70-1; x329 426; Baga Toiruu north; admission T3000; only the photographers are doing anything. The clay-red building to the southwest is
bead weighs 45.5kg, making it the largest in h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) shows off the extra- Near the centre of the Square, look for the the Mongolian Stock Exchange, which was opened
the world). You can get to Dashchoilon from ordinary art of young Mongolians. Themes large plaque that lists the former names of the in 1992 in the former Children’s Cinema.
a lane running off Baga Toiruu – look out for are mainly traditional scenes of hunting city – Örgöö, Nomiin Khuree, Ikh Khuree and The small park opposite the Stock Exchange
the orange-and-brown roof. and pastoralism. Niislel Khuree. contains a 0-kilometer marker, the point from
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which all distances in Mongolia are measured. in the high grass. It’s located 20km west of the u
Ikh Toiru
For a blast from the past, walk east from the city, about 3km before the Nairamdal Zulsan 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
southeast corner of the Square to the Lenin International Children’s Centre. Additionally,
statue. (For an even more dramatic bust of there are two golf courses in Terelj National

u
Sa

iru
iruu
Lenin walk into the former Lenin Museum, on Park (p111).

m
Baga To

To
bu
ug

Ikh
the north side of Liberty Sq.) If you are interested in paragliding lessons,

iin
Ö
contact Fly Mongolia (p114).

rg
ön
Ch
Gadamj
ZAISAN MEMORIAL & BUDDHA PARK Undestnii

ö lö
Diplomatic Services Negdsen

ὈὈὈὈὈ
WALKING TOUR

ö
Crops Building
The tall, thin landmark on top of the hill

Sükhbaat
south of the city is the Zaisan Memorial (Зайсан

Ikh Surg
Толгой; off Map p64). Built by the Russians to Liberty

aryn Gu

Baga To
Sq
Start/Finish Sükhbaatar Sq 11 10 9
commemorate ‘unknown soldiers and heroes’

uuliin Gu
Sambuugiin Örgön Chölöö Parliament
Distance 5km

Tömörchiin
(Government)
from various wars, it offers the best views of

damj

iruu
8 House
Duration 2½ hours

Baruun Se

da
Öndör Ge
Ulaanbaatar and the surrounding hills. The Container

mj
3 2
4

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Market
enormous tank at the bottom of the hill – part 5

Gudamj
7

lbe
of the Mongolia People’s Tank Brigade – saw

geen Zana
mj
This walking tour will take you between some urist) Guda 1
Juulchin (To
action against the Nazis during WWII. Urt Tsagaan

Gudamj
of the main downtown historical sites. Some 6

Baga Toiru
Mall
West of the memorial is the Buddha Park, parts are fairly exposed to the summer sun so

bazaryn Gu

Choimbo
featuring a 16m-tall standing Sakyamuni bring a hat and sunblock.

u
image. The funds to build the park were Begin in Sükhbaatar Sq (1; p77) and head to the 12
eace Ave)

lyn Guda
Peace &

Amarsana
Chölöö (P

damj
Friendship y Örgön
donated by a 99-year-old Mongolian monk Building Enkh Taivn

ὈὈὈ
northwest corner where you’ll spot the square-

mj
named Guru Dev. Below the statue is a small shaped National Museum of Mongolian History (2;

agiin Gu

ön Chölöö
room containing thangkas, sutras and images p69). This offers a worthwhile introduction to Russian

Partizan

Oly
Compound
St)
of the Buddha and his disciples. Mongolian culture and will give you some idea (Seoul

mp
damj
amj
Gud
To get there, catch bus 7 to the memorial.

iin
adorj

Gudam
of things you can expect to see in the country-

Chingisiin Örg
Nats

Örg
This bus departs from the Bayangol Hotel or side. Across the street is a Japanese garden

ön
j
Natsadorj Gu Nairamdal

Chö
Baga Toiruu near Anod Bank. donated by a Mongolian sumo wrestler. damj (Seou
l St) Park

löö
Continue walking west on the newly named
NAIRAMDAL PARK НАЙРАМДАЛ ПАРК ‘Tourist St’; the grey building on your right
Also called the Children’s Park, Nairamdal is the headquarters of the General Intelligence the eastern gate you might see fortune tellers tions it gives on its website are obsolete; it’s on the eastern
Park (Friendship Park; Map pp70-1), which includes Agency (3, the Mongolian KGB), which has (10) who make divinations using coins, sheep side of the city past the Khan Palace hotel.
a small amusement park, is being renovated an excellent museum around the back. At ankle bones and tarot cards. From Gandan Friends School (off Map p64; x454 513; www
by a Japanese company and will hopefully be the end of this building is Taliin Mongol (4; Khiid (11; p73), walk down Öndör Gegeen .friendscompany.mn; Apt 64/2 Bayanzürkh District, 5th
operational by 2008. You can enter the park p86) our favourite restaurant in the city for Zanabazaryn Gudamj, passing the Centre of Microdistrict) Short-term survival Mongolian classes are
from south of the of Choijin Lama Temple Mongolian food (come back here later for Shaman Eternal Heavenly Sophistication (12; p75) available. Located just northeast of the Bridge School.
Museum, or opposite the Bayangol Hotel. dinner). On the next block you’ll spot the on your left. End this tour with a stroll down International Language Center (Map pp70-1;
Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts (5; p69) which Peace Ave and back to the Square. x313 727; www.ilcschool.com; Choimbolyn 6) Language
ACTIVITIES faces something called Builder’s Sq. Across the courses for a reasonable T40,000 per month or T5000 per
For a swim, try the heated indoor pool (Map street from the square is the Federation for the COURSES hour. Convenient central location.
p64; x318 180; Zaluuchuudyn Örgön Chölöö; per hr T4500; Preservation of Mahayana Tradition (6; opposite) Language
h8am-8pm Wed-Sun, closed 15 Jul-1 Aug) at the Zaluus Buddhist centre and its excellent Stupa Café – It’s possible to ask around for ‘exchange les- Buddhism
Youth & Cultural Centre. When it’s closed in definitely worth popping in for a drink or sons’ at the National University of Mongolia The Federation for the Preservation of Mahayana
summer you can join the locals and jump in snack. Between FPMT and the next street and the Institute of Foreign Languages (p80) Tradition (FPMT; Map pp70-1; x321 580, 9987 9535; www
the Tuul near the bridge by Zaisan Memorial. there are several excellent antique shops that in Ulaanbaatar. A better idea is to attend one .fpmtmongolia.mn; Builder’s Sq, Juulchin Gudamj) is in-
Across the street from the pool, the Orchlon are worth browsing. of the language schools in Ulaanbaatar, which volved in the regeneration of Buddhist culture
Gym (Map p64; x354 326; Zaluuchuudyn Örgön Chölöö; The next block is Urt Tsagaan (7) pedestrian can organise long- and short-term courses. in Mongolia. The centre offers free lectures
per day/month T20,000/US$120; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, mall. There is nothing terribly exciting about Recommended schools in Ulaanbaatar include and courses on various aspects of Buddhist
7am-7pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) has modern ex- the place, although it does have plenty of small the following: tradition and meditation. Lectures are given
ercise facilities. Titan Fitness (Map pp70-1; x9905 shops, cafés, barbers and little stalls selling Bridge Mongolian Language Center (off Map p64; in English (at the time of writing, Monday to
2427; Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; per day/month T6000/60,000; clothing and knick-knacks. x367 149; www.bridge.url.mn/english; PO Box 955, Thursday at 6.30pm); look for the pink-tiled
h6am-9pm) is another good option. Continue towards Gandan Khiid, passing Ulaanbaatar-13) Receiving consistently positive reviews, building west of the Mormon Church.
The UB Golf Club (off Map p64; x9979 9945, 9976 Bakula Rinpoche Süm (8; p76) and Gesar Süm (9; this language centre offers an intensive two-week survival
3377; 1 round US$20, caddy US$5, ball boy US$1) is a wild p76). The lane uphill towards Gandan Khiid course, as well as longer courses and individual tuition. Yoga
place where balls tend to get swallowed up leads into the original ger district that has Costs are US$5 to US$7 per hour for a private lesson or The Ananda Café & Meditation Centre (p90)
even on the fairways – down marmot holes or circled the monastery for 170 years. Near US$4 per person for a group lesson. Note that the direc- offers yoga courses nightly at 6.30pm. (Hatha
ULAANBAATAR 80 U L A A N B A ATA R • • T o u r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • T o u r s 81

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yoga with chanting and meditation.) Contact Outside Ulaanbaatar
x9913 2100 for details. Of the hundred or more travel agencies of- ASRAL & KUNCHAB JAMPA LING BUDDHIST CENTRE
fering tours that have sprung up around Located in the northwest corner of the city, Asral (Map p64; x304 838; www.asralmongolia.org) is
University Courses Ulaanbaatar in the past few years, the dozen a new NGO and Buddhist social centre that supports impoverished families. Its main aim is to
The National University of Mongolia (NUM; Map pp70-1; or so listed following are recommended as stop disadvantaged youths from becoming street children. It also provides skills and jobs for
x320 159; www.num.edu.mn; Ikh Surguuliin Gudamj 1, PO being generally reliable. You can expect to unemployed women; an on-site felt-making cooperative turns out some lovely products.
Box 46a/523, 210646) is northeast of Sükhbaatar pay around US$30 to US$50 including food, The Buddhist arm of the organisation has classes on Buddhism and meditation although
Sq. The school offers specialised classes on accommodation, tickets to sights and guide for now these are only offered in Mongolian. In summer, a high Tibetan Lama, Panchen Otrul
Mongolian culture and language, and has (who will double as a cook). The price of a Rinpoche, visits the centre and provides religious teachings.
a foreign-student department. The office is vehicle is an extra US$60 per day including Asral encourages travellers to visit the centre. You can meet the felt-makers and buy their prod-
in the main building, room 213. Response driver and petrol, so you can lower your costs ucts or even volunteer your time. The centre is always looking for English teachers or gardeners
to these programmes by students is quite if you have more people to split this cost. to work on a small farm in Gachuurt. The centre is in the 3/4 district opposite the Gobi Sauna,
mixed particularly when it comes to teach- Budget travellers often organise ad-hoc slightly off the main road. It’s best to call before you visit. Take bus 21, 29 or 13 to the last stop
ing Mongolian (the general consensus is that tours via their guesthouse or Chez Bernard and continue walking for 300m. Asral is a two-storey cream-coloured building on your right.
the language schools do a much better job Café (p90). If you do this try to meet the driver
at this). and guide before the trip and ensure that eve-
Flexible group and private Mongolian-lan- ryone knows the itinerary and exactly what is aimags Khövsgöl, Arkhangai and Khentii. It’s based at impact tourism, runs fixed-departure yak, camel and horse
guage lessons are available at the Institute of included. Khongor, Idre’s, Golden Gobi and Seven Summits, opposite the CPO. Contact Sylvia Hay. treks and can also arrange rafting trips on the Tuul Gol.
International Studies (Map pp70-1; x329 860; dash UB guesthouses (see p82) all run fairly stand- Happy Camel (Map pp70-1; x8810 0133; www Its trip in Terelj is unique – you walk while yaks haul your
[email protected]), opposite the university. ard trips that get consistently good reviews. .happycamel.com; Peace Ave 27) It operates out of Chez own portable ger on a cart. This is a great outfit for the
The American Center for Mongolian Studies (Map Shop around and see who can offer the most Bernard; see p90. eco-conscious traveller. Contact Jan Wigsten or Manduhai.
pp70-1; x350 486; www.mongoliacenter.org; National creative schedule at the best price. You can Hovsgol Travel Company (Map pp70-1M0327; x460 368; Nomads (Map pp70-1; x/fax 328 146; www
University of Mongolia, Bldg 5, Room 304) has a good expect to pay around US$50 to US$60 for www.hovsgoltravel.com; PO Box 2003; Namyanjugiin .nomadstours.com; Suite 8-9, 3rd fl, Peace & Friendship
website listing courses and can recommend a vehicle and another US$15 per day for a Gudamj) Specialises in boat and horse trips around Khövs- Bldg, Peace Ave, PO Box 1008) Offers a wide range of
study possibilities. guide (optional). Budget tours don’t include göl. Runs the popular Camp Toilogt. fixed-departure tours, including popular horse treks in
food or accommodation; however, they usu- Juulchin (Map pp70-1; x328 428; www.juulchin Khentii and through Terelj, visiting Günjiin Süm. Nomads
TOURS ally include stoves for cooking your own food .com; Bayangol Hotel, 5b Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö) Its office also offers fabulous jeep trips to more remote areas in the
Ulaanbaatar and tents for camping out. is at the back of Bayangol Hotel. far west and camel treks in the Gobi. Its office location will
It is not particularly easy to join an organised The main difference between the tour op- Karakorum Expeditions (Map pp70-1; x320 182, change in 2009; check the website.
tour of Ulaanbaatar if you have arrived as an erators and the guesthouses is the quality of 9911 6729; www.gomongolia.com; PO Box 542) The leader Radiant Sky (Map pp70–1; x9192 9366; www
independent traveller. You can try to contact the guides. Guides from guesthouses are usu- in bike and hiking tours in western Mongolia, it also offers .radiant-sky.com; Peace Ave 15, Apt 6) Mongolian-run
one of the companies offering tours under ally inexperienced in the field and not particu- trips to China. The company has a good philosophy: a big outfit that does reasonably priced tours across the country.
Outside Ulaanbaatar (right) and see what they larly knowledgeable when it comes to history plus is that it runs snow-leopard research trips and wildlife It specialises in small-group horseback and jeep adventures
have available. or culture. Oftentimes they are students and tours. The office is behind the State Circus in the Gangaryn in western and northern Mongolia.
Ulaanbaatar is a walkable city so it’s easy their main qualification is that they can speak Gurav building. Contact Graham Taylor. Rinky Dink Travel Mongolia (x9974 4162; www
enough see it on your own using this guide English (which at least allows you to commu- Khövsgöl Lodge Company (Map pp70-1; x9911 .rinkydinktravel.com, [email protected]; PO Box
and a map. Alternatively, leave this book in nicate with locals and the driver). Tour op- 5929; www.boojum.com; Sükhbaatar District, Bldg 33, 1927) As the name indicates, this is a small tour company
your hotel and go and wander off on your own erators, on the other hand, hire specialists in Room 16) This experienced outfitter is part of the US-based that keeps its trips simple, safe and fun. It has homestays
for a while. Although not really necessary, history and culture or they may be particularly Boojum Expeditions. It is in an apartment block behind the in ger districts and takes you out of Ulaanbaatar to meet
if you do hire a taxi to drive you around, a skilled trekking or horse guides. This can be a Drama Theatre, but you are better off calling first to get nomad families. It is involved in social development pro-
guide-cum-interpreter could be handy. huge help in the backcountry as rural guides someone to meet you. Contact Bobo or Anya. grammes in poor neighbourhoods and invites tourists to
The Arts Council of Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x319 and horse boys won’t speak English. Mongolia Expeditions (Map pp70-1; x329 279, 9909 volunteer for its projects. There is no actual ‘office’ to drop
015; www.artscouncil.mn; cnr Juulchin Gudamj & Baruun In summer you may be approached by stu- 6911; [email protected]; Jamyn Gunii Gudamj into – you just contact them and they will pick you up.
Selbe Gudamj) sponsors two excellent specialised dents or other young Mongols who organise 5-2) Specialises in adventure travel, including cycle touring, Samar Magic Tours (Map pp70-1; x311 051, 9928
city tours twice a month or by appointment. their own tours, charging around US$90 per mountaineering, caving and rafting trips, as well as more sed- 2459; www.samarmagictours.com; PO Box 329) Based at
‘Myths and Truths: the Socialist Legacy in day for up to six people. One such person entary options such as flower-watching tours. It is particularly El Latino restaurant, this company runs fishing expeditions
Mongolia Tour’ visits places associated with is the delightfully energetic Meg Erdenekhuu experienced in tours to western Mongolia. It’s located on the and a ger camp near Terelj. Contact Spanish- and English-
the communist era, and the ‘Mongolian (x9964 3242; [email protected]) who spe- west side of the Choijin Lama Temple Museum. speaking Christo Camilo Gavilla Gomez.
Buddhism Tour’ explores Ulaanbaatar’s cialises in trips to the Gobi (her area of exper- Nomadic Expeditions (Map pp70-1; x313 396, 325 Tseren Tours (Map pp70-1; x9974 0832, 327 083;
Buddhist legacy beyond the main tourist at- tise is geology and palaeontology) but can take 786; www.threecamellodge.com; Peace Ave 76) This is the www.tserentours.com; Baruun Selbe Gudamj 14/1) Dutch-
tractions. Both tours, which last from 10am you to virtually any corner of the country. Mongolian office of the US-based travel company (see the and Mongolian-run outfit that does countrywide tours,
to 4pm, provide excellent commentary and Active Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x329 456; www boxed text, p270). biking trips and stays with nomad families.
lunch at a nice restaurant. Prices vary depend- .activemongolia.com) This reliable Scottish-German opera- Nomadic Journeys (Map pp70-1; x328 737; www Tsolmon Travel (Map pp70-1; x322 870; www
ing on the size of your group, but count on tion specialises in rugged hiking, rafting and horseback .nomadicjourneys.com; Sükhbaataryn Gudamj 1) This .tsolmontravel.com; Chinggis Örgön Chölöö 61/19) Country-
paying about US$70 per person. trips, plus mountain biking. Most of the trips are to the Swedish-Mongolian joint venture, concentrating on low- wide tours and the operator of Buveit ger camp in Terelj.
ULAANBAATAR 82 U L A A N B A ATA R • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels U L A A N B A ATA R • • S l e e p i n g 83

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Wind of Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x328 754, 9909 building costs from US$200 to US$300 per
0593; www.windofmongolia.mn; Sükhbaatar District, month. Check the classified sections of the GOING UNDERGROUND
5th Microdistrict, Bldg 17, Apt 15) This French-run tour local English-language newspapers. Mongolian While the streets of Ulaanbaatar heave with traffic and congestion, a group of people have
operator offers creative and offbeat trips, including rock Properties (Map pp70-1; x324 545; www.mongolia found quiet and warm refuge beneath the pavement. Since the early 1990s, homeless people
climbing, dog sledding (in winter) and tours that focus on -properties.com; Seoul St 48/13) has apartments for (both adults and children) have made homes in the sewer systems of Ulaanbaatar. The sewers
Buddhism. Contact Joel Rauzy. rent on a long-term basis. Another recom- are particularly useful in winter when the hot water pipes keep them warm.
mended agent is Mongolian Real Estate (x9918 In the mid-1990s up to 6000 people lived in the sewers, most of them children. An increase
FESTIVALS & EVENTS 1786; www.mongolianrealestate.com). You could also in the number of orphanages has since brought the number down into the hundreds. Many of
The biggest event in Ulaanbaatar is undoubt- ask at the guesthouses, which sometimes rent the kids (especially boys) prefer the freedom of the streets in summer rather than the strict rules
edly the Naadam (Festival), held on 11 and 12 out apartments for around US$20 to US$30 and classes of homeless shelters, but winters are brutal. Girls often end up in prostitution. Both
July. Some visitors may not find the festival it- per night for short-term stays. sexes suffer from high rates of malnutrition, syphilis, scabies and body lice.
self terribly exciting, but the associated activi- Some kids who grew up on the streets in the 1990s are now part of a growing criminal element,
ties during the Naadam week and the general GUESTHOUSES although many are now in jail (if they haven’t already died). There have been a few turnaround
festive mood make it a great time to visit. For Most city guesthouses have been carved out stories, however, including one former street girl who was taken in by the Lotus Children Centre,
more information, see the boxed text, p96. of the old Russian apartments; this sometimes learned English and now makes US$300 a month as a translator at a mining company.
Around Naadam and other public holidays, makes them hard to find as you need to weave Ulaanbaatar has around 20 shelters, many run by foreign NGOs, with beds for around 500 chil-
special cultural events and shows are organ- through courtyards and find the correct door dren. Several aid agencies work with the children, including Save the Children (www.savethechildren
ised. It is worth reading the local English- out of many anonymous steel doors. Most .org), the National Centre for Children and the Lotus Children’s Centre (www.lotuschild.org).
language newspapers and asking a Mongolian guesthouses offer a hot shower and a kitchen. The Christina Noble Foundation (x9909 8377; www.cncf.org) operates a shelter on the edge
friend, guide or hotel staff member to find out Almost all offer trips to nearby attractions, as of town and runs several education and health programmes. If you ring ahead you might be
what may be on. well as visa extension and registration, laundry able to visit the facilities. The Lotus Children’s Centre is also happy to meet visitors – visits are
At the end of July, on a date set by the and the booking of train tickets. If overbooked usually handled by Tseren Tours (p81). Money is not usually requested, but the centres are happy
lunar calendar, you can see tsam-mask dancing you may be shoved into an apartment with the to accept donations.
at Dashchoilon Khiid. owner’s grandmother – there’s always room
The last week in October sees the city’s for one more.
birthday – it was founded in 1639. Events and Gana’s Guest House (Map pp70-1;x/fax 367 343; US$4, s/d US$14/16, s/d without bathroom US$12/14; i) With 12 rooms this is one of the largest guest-
concerts are usually put on at this time at www.ganasger.mn; Gandan Khiid ger district, House No 22; Amiable host Idre has constructed a single- houses in the city. It has dorms and private
the Palace of Culture or State Opera & Ballet dm/ger US$3/5, d US$15; i) If you fancy staying floor guesthouse with several dorms and pri- rooms with attached bathroom, a common
Theatre. See www.artscouncil.mn for details. in a ger district, drop by this longtime back- vate rooms. There is a central lounge, small area, kitchen where you can cook your own
In the middle of March, it’s definitely worth packer hangout. Owner Gana has accommo- kitchen and a book exchange. It’s located near meals and a restaurant on the ground floor.
checking out the Camel Polo Winter Festival, dation in private rooms inside a main block, the old long-distance bus station (Teeveriin Bathrooms are clean and have hot-water boil-
featuring camel polo and racing. This is a or you could stay in a ger on the roof. Facilities Tovchoo) in a dusty corner of town. Idre also ers – important in summer when other places
nontouristy event and you’ll be able to mix include free internet, breakfast and 24-hour runs ger accommodation in Töv Aimag, near only have cold water. It’s a little out of the cen-
and mingle with spectators dressed in tradi- security. To find it, head up Öndör Gegeen Mandshir Khiid. tre, on the road towards the train station.
tional attire (big dels – traditional coats – and Zanabazaryn Gudamj on the way to Gandan UB Guesthouse (Map pp70-1; x311 037, 9119 9859; Tiara Guesthouse (Map p64; x2125 2319, 9905
boots). Participating teams come mainly Khiid and look for the small sign that points www.ubguest.com; Tserendorjiin Gudamj; dm/s/d US$5/10/16; 4244; www.tiaraguesthouse.com; October St 28-35, Bogd Ar
from the Gobi and even Inner Mongolia. right down a narrow alley. i) At the time of writing this popular guest- Subdistrict No 5A; dm US$7; i) Likable Dutch- and
A camel parade in Sükhbaatar Sq is part of o Khongor Guest House (Map pp70-1; house was planning to move to a six-storey Mongolian-run guesthouse with smart dorms
the festivities. x316 415, 9925 2599; http://get.to/khongor; Peace Ave building opposite the State Department and a brightly-lit lounge. It’s one of the best
For more info see p255. 15, Apt 6; dm/s/d US$4/10/12; i) The experienced, Store. The new guesthouse will have more backpacker setups in town, although a little
English-speaking manager Toroo offers well- than 100 beds, making it easily the biggest in outside the centre. It’s hard to spot: with your
SLEEPING appointed accommodation in three separate this category. The management here gets very back to the XAAH Bank, walk through the
There is a wide range of places to stay in the buildings, each convenient and central. mixed reviews. gap to the right of the Fresco Market (the red-
capital city, with some of the best deals at the Amenities include free airport/train station Golden Gobi (Map pp70-1; x322 632, 9665 4496; www roofed temple is to your right). After 50m turn
bottom and top ends. During the week sur- pick up, breakfast, free email checks and safety .goldengobi.com; dm/d US$5/16, d without bathroom US$14; left up the ramp and look for the sign.
rounding Naadam, accommodation may be in lock-up box – check out the glowing reports i) With its colourful walls, funky décor and Zaya Backpacker Hostel (Map pp70-1; x316 696,
short supply and prices are often higher. on the website. Among the guesthouses, friendly vibe, this has become one of the most 9918 5013; www.zayahostel.com; Peace Ave; dm US$10,
Khongor’s trips get some of the best reviews popular backpacker places in town. It has two s/d US$24/28, s/d with shared bathroom US$22/24; i)
Budget and the management bends over backwards in lounges and some rooms with private bath- Unlike most other guesthouses, this one is in
APARTMENTS handling logistics, ticketing and visa matters. room. A young, friendly and totally laid-back a new building with hardwood floors, modern
If you are planning to stay in Ulaanbaatar for The entrance of the guesthouse is around the management is another bonus. Price includes bathrooms, a comfortable lounge and new
a while or you are travelling in a small group, back of the third building west of the State breakfast. It’s off the corner of Baruun Selbe furnishings. Value for money, it’s even better
it’s worth looking around for an apartment to Department Store. Gudamj and Peace Ave. than most midrange hotels in the city. It’s on
rent. A reasonable, furnished, two-bedroom Idre’s Guest House (Map pp70-1; x316 749, 9916 LG Guesthouse (Map p64; x328 243, 9989 4672; www the 3rd floor of an orange building behind the
apartment with a kitchen in an old Russian 6049; www.idretour.com; Undsen Khuulin Gudamj; dm .lg.url.mn; Narny Gudamj; dm US$5-7, s/d US$12/16; i) Peace & Friendship Building; when it’s full,
ULAANBAATAR 84 U L A A N B A ATA R • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels U L A A N B A ATA R • • S l e e p i n g 85

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guests are moved to less desirable apartments Guide House Hotel (Map pp70-1; x353 582, 353
across the road (but pay the same rates). 887; [email protected]; Baga Toiruu north; r US$30, GER DISTRICT DIGS
Oasis Café & Guesthouse (off Map p64; x463 393, half-lux US$45, lux US$60) Between Dashchoilon As Ulaanbaatar’s centre booms with high-rise construction sites and multimillion dollar prop-
9909 3696; www.intergam-oasis.com; Nalaikh Gudamj; dm Khiid and Baga Toiruu, this hidden hotel of- erty developments, its ger (yurt) districts remain trapped in time. By staying in one you’ll get
US$12; pi) Austrian-German-run place with fers clean and comfortable rooms. Its best a real sense of traditional Mongolian family life, at the same time gaining an appreciation for
beautiful accommodation in dorms, gers and feature is its large and modern bathroom, the difficulties that ger residents must endure. Several tour companies offer walks through ger
private rooms with attached bathroom. It has plus the free Swedish breakfast. It’s the best districts but to achieve the full living experience contact Rinky Dink Travel Mongolia (see p81)
a large yard and a brightly-painted café, which pick in this range. which can set you up with a homestay in a ger district and place you as a volunteer in its social
serves excellent Austrian meals and pastries. development projects. A typical stay might include digging a pit toilet, repairing a fence, doing
Located 5km east of Sükhbaatar Sq (in the CAMPING & GER CAMPS art projects with street kids or teaching English. You’ll live like the locals (pit toilets, no running
Amgalan district; GPS: N47° 54.706’, E106° There are no official camping grounds in water, difficult transport) but you’ll also encounter some of the friendliest people anywhere and
58.857’). Prices include breakfast. Ulaanbaatar but you’ll find endless patches gain a perspective on the city that few people encounter. Visits can last between three days to
More recommended guesthouses include of grass to pitch a tent on Bogd Khan Uul to several weeks.
the following: the south of the city. Try the valley behind
Chinggis Guesthouse (Map pp70-1; x325 941, 9927 the Zaisan Memorial. The main problem, of
1843; www.chingisguest.mn; dm US$6; i) Clean and course, is what to do with all your stuff during half-lux US$48/80, lux US$75/120) Bland but clean tels, the Bayangol consists of two 12-storey
friendly four-room apartment guesthouse. It’s back behind the day; theft is a problem, so you’re prob- rooms overlook a quiet street near Gandan towers that dominate the skyline south of
the National Academic Drama Theatre and Bayangol Hotel. ably better off going to Gachuurt (p114) or Monastery and Peace Ave. Tacky, pseudo- the Square. Rooms have been renovated and
GobiTours & Guesthouse (Map pp70-1; x322 339, Mandshir Khiid (p109). European atmosphere prevails. The lux rooms even come with a personal computer, which
9982 1598; www.gobitours.com; Peace Ave 61, Door Bogd Khan Ger Camp (off Map p64; x9191 9129, are a little odd-looking, with two queen-size you can use for work or internet. There is an
20, Room 25; dm US$6; i) Welcoming and friendly 9666 0229, 8811 1292; ger T35,000-45,000, ger without beds pushed into a triangular-shaped alcove. imported-goods shop here and two excellent
guesthouse but it’s a bit small and does get crowded. bathroom T12,000-20,000) Sports around 100 gers, Zaluuchuud Hotel (Map pp70-1; x324 594; www restaurants, the Casablanca (for Singaporean
Very central, it’s in the U-shaped white apartment block some basic with shared bathroom and others .zh.mn; Baga Toiruu 43; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$35/65/90; food) and the Taj Mahal (for Indian).
opposite the post office. decked out with furniture and modern at- i) One of Ulaanbaatar’s oldest hotels, Chinggis Khaan Hotel (Map pp70-1; x313 380; www
Nassan’s Guest House (Map pp70-1; x321 078, tached bathroom. It’s 3km south of the Tuul the Zaluuchuud (Young People) has seen .chinggis-hotel.com; Tokyogiin Gudamj 10; s US$84, d US$107-
9919 7466; www.nassantour.com; Baga Toiruu west; dm Gol (behind Zaisan) although there is no renovations that have raised it to the midrange 119, s/d half-lux US$119/144, s/d lux US$179, ste US$333;
US$6, s/d/tr US$16/18/20; i) In the heart of the city, regular transport. category. Not all the rooms are the same size pis) The Chinggis Khaan is Mongolia’s
Nassan offers accommodation in one of six apartments so you might try asking for an en suite stand- biggest, brashest hotel. It has all the facili-
spread over one apartment block. Each apartment has Midrange ard, which includes a bedroom and a sitting ties you could dream of, including indoor
kitchen facilities. Ulaanbaatar is definitely short on decent mid- room with TV. Room 300 is a good choice. pool, travel agent and an attached shopping
Ciel Mongol (Map p64; x9977 2960; www.cielmongol range hotels but the following are a few rea- mall. Rooms are well-appointed and of in-
.com; Khoroolol 13, Bldg 22-6, Door 5-p; dm US$7, d sonable options. Places in this range normally Top End ternational four-star standard; choose one
without bathroom US$17; i) French-owned guesthouse include breakfast. All top-end places include breakfast, but that faces west for a view of the Bogd Khan
with clean, nicely decorated rooms. It’s hidden among Seoul Hotel (Map pp70-1; x314 507; Peace Ave; often they also include service and govern- mountain and downtown Ulaanbaatar.
apartment blocks so call ahead for a pick-up. s/d US$30/40, lux s/d US$50/60; i) Although not a ment charges of between 10% and 20%. Major Khan Palace (Map p64; x463 463; www.khanpalace
family-oriented hotel (it has a striptease bar credit cards are accepted and reservations are .com; East Cross Rd; s/d US$98/121, half-lux US$115/144, lux
HOTELS on the 2nd floor and condom bowls scat- advisable in the peak season, especially around US$173/219, ste US$345-518; pai) Ulaanbaatar’s
There are few hotels to recommend in the tered throughout), it’s reasonably priced Naadam time. In addition to the following, a newest luxury hotel is a Kempinski-managed
budget category and most backpackers wind and clean. Hilton is expected to open its doors in 2008. Japanese-invested venture on the east end of
up at a guesthouse. But if you’re set on stay- Voyage Hotel (Map p64; x327 213; Narny Gudamj; Ulaanbaatar Hotel (Map pp70-1; x320 620; http:// Peace Ave. Rooms are plush, with a tasteful
ing at a proper hotel the following options s/d/half-lux/lux US$30/50/65/90; i) Representing welcome.to/ubhotel; Baga Toiruu; s US$60-70, d US$90, s/d ste design and little niceties such as humidifier,
are doable. good value, the 30-room Voyage has attentive US$90/120, s/d lux US$120/160; i) The Ulaanbaatar robes and slippers. The hotel also has free
Mandukhai Hotel (Map pp70-1; x322 204; s/d/tr staff and pleasant rooms. Facilities include Hotel is the grand old dame of Mongolia. Built internet, a fitness centre and sauna, but no
T12,000/18,000/23,000, lux s/d T25,000/40,000) Rooms two restaurants (European and Korean), free back in the 1950s, this was where Soviet digni- swimming pool. Expats say the breakfast is
in the Soviet-era Mandukhai have been reno- internet and sauna. The low price is a reflec- taries stayed during their visits to UB. It still the best in town.
vated with new carpets, drapes and bathrooms tion of its less than perfect location, on the carries an air of the Khrushchev era with its o Corporate Hotel (Map pp70-1; x 334
but the rambling hallways are still very run- busy road to the train station. high ceilings, chandeliers, a marble staircase 411; www.corporatehotel.mn; Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö 9-
down. Located in the second building west of Kharaa Hotel (Map pp70-1; x313 733; Choimbolyn and a lavish ballroom. The hotel also contains 2; s/d US$140/185, half-lux US$160/220, lux US$180/240,
the Wrestling Palace. Gudamj 6; d/half-lux/lux US$35/45/60; i) One of the two restaurants, a bar, a travel agency, business ste US$350/460; ni) With its slender tower
Hotel Örgöö (Map pp70-1; x313 772; cnr Juulchin few hotels in this range to have been renovated centre, sauna and beauty parlour. Amazingly, and minimalist design, the Corporate looks
Gudamj & Jigjidjavanyn Gudamj; s/d US$25/40, ste s/d with a tasteful, retrained style. Each of the 29 it also contains a golf practice range. like a slice of Tokyo lost in the tangle of
US$45/60) Although it’s in dire need of renova- rooms contains a fridge, TV and desk. Views Bayangol Hotel (Map pp70-1; x312 255; www Ulaanbaatar’s ungainly Soviet architecture.
tion, this old dinosaur is still worth mention- are best from the street side of the building. .bayangolhotel.mn; Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö 5; s/d US$76/97, Thanks to the unique design of the building,
ing for its central and quiet location. Fine for Genex Hotel (Map pp70-1; x 319 326; www lux US$142/174, ste US$252/295; pni) One of most rooms are on corners, with windows
a night or two at this price. .generalimpex.mn; Choimbolyn Gudamj 10; s/d US$35/56, Ulaanbaatar’s biggest and most reliable ho- facing in two directions. It has a restaurant,
ULAANBAATAR 86 U L A A N B A ATA R • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • E a t i n g 87

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sauna, Jacuzzi, fitness room and a spectacular number of Mongol treats, including grilled
roof-top bar on the 11th floor. This is a great yak cheese with yogurt, Buriat pancakes, lamb HOTEL BARS & RESTAURANTS
place to come for a drink even if you’re not khorkhog (steamed meat), traditional Kazakh In most cities, travellers tend to overlook the restaurants and bars set inside hotels, or only eat at
staying here. horse sausage and even boiled lamb’s head! the hotel in which they are staying. Ulaanbaatar, however, has a number of excellent restaurants
Also recommended: Wash these gourmet delights down with a and bars, privately owned and managed, inside the city’s top end hotels. The best include:
Puma Imperial (Map pp70-1; x313 043; www glass of camel milk or sea buckthorn wine.
„ Khan Palace: Sakura (below) is an excellent Japanese restaurant. The hotel also offers a quality
.mongolianpumahotel.com; Ikh Surguuliin Gudamj; s/tw/d It’s located on the east side of the Mongolian
breakfast buffet complete with omelette chef!
US$63/100/105; pi) Popular with visiting journalists GIA building.
and diplomats wanting to be close to the Square. None of City Nomads (Map p64; x454 484; Peace Ave 16; dishes „ Chinggis Khaan Hotel (p85): Mr Wang is a good Chinese restaurant.
the rooms have a particularly good view. T4000-8000, hnoon-11pm) Upscale Mongolian at- „ Bayangol Hotel (p85): There are two great restaurants in the Casablanca and Taj Mahal (below).
Continental Hotel (Map pp70-1; x323 829; www mosphere although most of the steak, chicken
„ Puma Imperial (opposite): Delhi Darbar is an Indian restaurant.
.continentalhotel.ulaanbaatar.net; Olympiin Örgön Chölöö; and fish menu is Western in style and taste.
s/d US$79/107, half-lux US$105/132, lux US$130/168; It’s attached to the Negdelchin Hotel. „ White House Hotel: Strings (p88) is the closest thing Mongolia has to a Hard Rock Café.
pi) This rather incongruous hotel bears a striking Nomad Legends Mongols Club (Map pp70-1; x326 „ Corporate Hotel (p85): Home to View Lounge, a spectacular roof-top bar.
resemblance to the White House. Facilities include a small 631; Sükhbaataryn Gudamj 1; meals T6000-8000; hnoon-
fitness centre, with a charge of US$9 per hour. midnight) A branch of City Nomads, this smaller
Narantuul Hotel (Map pp70-1; x330 565; www restaurant-café is a great place to stop for a away. The Korean, Chinese and Japanese taste, quality of service, freshness of food and
.narantuulhotel.com; Peace Ave; s/d/tr US$79/89/99, half- Mongolian milk tea or plate of not-so-greasy script on the signboard is usually covered (an consistency, this is arguably the best restau-
lux s/d/tr US$109/119/129, lux s/d US$149/159; i) Eye- khuushuur (fried meat pancake). The décor of edict issued by a Mongolian nationalist gang rant in town. Hazara is located behind the
pleasing rooms have modern but subtle décor, with a few contemporary Mongol art looks touristy, but called Dayan Mongol), so the signs will be in Wrestling Palace.
nice touches, such as flat-panel TVs. It has two restaurants, it’s quite popular with locals. Both this place Cyrillic or English. Other recommendations:
a business centre, sauna and beauty salon. and City Nomads are related to the inferior Taj Mahal (Map pp70-1; x311 009; Bayangol Hotel, Ba Shu Restaurant (Map pp70-1; x321 767; cnr
Modern Nomads. Tower B, Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö 5; dishes T4000-5000, thalli Peace Ave & Baruun Selbe Gudamj; dishes T2500) Reason-
EATING BD’s Mongolian Barbeque (Map pp70-1; x311 191; T6000; hnoon-midnight) Amiable owner Babu ably priced and central Chinese restaurant.
The two best roads for all kinds of restaurants Seoul St; all-you-can-eat BBQ T7700; hnoon-midnight) prepares a range of tandoori and North Indian City Café (Map pp70-1; x328 077; cnr Peace Ave &
and cafés are Baga Toiruu west and Peace Ave, This is the first American chain restaurant dishes such as murgh makhni (butter chicken). Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; dishes T3800-6000; h10am-
near the State Department Store. to open a franchise in Mongolia – ironically, The lunchtime thalli (set menu) gives you 11pm; wi-fi) On the 1st floor of the Mongolian Artists’
it’s not American cuisine but Mongolian three curries, dhal, salad, rice, bread and des- Exhibition Hall, it has some surprisingly good Chinese and
Restaurants barbecue. Despite the staged atmosphere, sert. We liked the interior too – the papier- Korean dishes.
Forget everything you’ve heard about the Mongolians seem to like it and it’s certainly mâché elephant and reconstruction of the Taj Shilla (Map pp70-1; x9119 2231; Od Plaza, Seoul St;
food in Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar is blanketed a filling option if you’re half-starved after a Mahal façade adds a nice touch. meals T6000-8000) Slick and professional Korean barbecue.
with marvellous locally owned bistros and countryside trip. Profits from the restaurant Mokran Pyongyang Restaurant (Map pp70-1;
restaurants, and a few top-end places run by go to the Mongolian Youth Development x9986 9305; cnr Peace Ave & Öndör Gegeen Zanabazaryn A great place for Japanese is the restau-
Western and Asian expats. Federation (MYDF). Gudamj; meals T5000, sushi platter T10,000; hnoon- rant Sakura (Map p64; Khan Palace Hotel; East Cross
There are dozens of Mongolian fast-food res- 10.30pm) Offers a mix of Japanese and Korean Rd; meals T4500-9000). There are a few other
MONGOLIAN taurants (guanz) and they can be found on dishes. Sushi is half-price here on weekends hotels with decent Asian restaurants, in-
There has been a small explosion of restau- every block in the city. Some are chain res- but the real reason to come here is to expe- cluding a Chinese place at the Chinggis
rants serving gourmet Mongolian cuisine, taurants and you’ll start to recognise promi- rience the ‘Friendship Cultural Centre of Khaan (p85), another Chinese restaurant
as unlikely as that may sound. Some are the nent eateries, including Zochin Buuz (Зочин North Korea’. There are paintings of North in the Ulaanbaatar Hotel (p85) and the
genuine article, serving Mongolian delica- Бууз), Khaan Buuz (Хаан Бууз) and Mongol Korea on the walls and you can watch North Singaporean-styled Casablanca restaurant
cies (various forms of meat and milk com- Khuushuur (Монгол Хуушуур). They serve Korean DVDs while you eat (ask to see the at the Bayangol Hotel (p85).
binations) in a pleasant atmosphere. Other up industrial-sized buuz (steamed mutton Mass Games DVD). It’s a unique chance to
places are geared towards the tourist crowd, dumplings), plus soups and bifshteks ondogtei speak with the North Koreans who run the WESTERN
usually dealing in Mongolian barbecue (the (beefsteak with egg); many of these operate 24 place and well-worth visiting if you have an CCCP (Map pp70-1; x9927 4740; cnr Ikh Surguuliin Gudamj
Americanised version of Mongolian food). hours. Meals cost T900 to T1500. There is a interest in the hermit kingdom. & Zaluuchuudyn Örgön Chölöö; dishes T2500-4000; h11am-
Taliin Mongol (Map pp70-1; x319 451; Juulchin popular Zochin Buuz (Map pp70–1) on Peace Hazara (Map p64; x480 214, 9919 5007; Peace Ave midnight) The Beatles song ‘Back in the USSR’
Gudamj; meals T4000-6000; h9am-midnight) Once Ave, opposite the Russian embassy, and a nice 16; dishes T6000-8000; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm) This will spring to mind when you enter this kitsch
you’ve eaten at this delicious restaurant Khaan Buuz (Map pp70–1) west from the North Indian restaurant has been serving Soviet time warp. Meals include old Russian fa-
Mongolian food will never taste the same Flower Center on Baga Toiruu west. up delectable dishes for more than a decade, vourites such as pelmeni (dumpling soup) and
again. Walk inside to find walls covered with always with the same winning menu and borsch, plus other treats from the former Soviet
tasteful art and tamga (traditional livestock ASIAN colourful décor. Each table is covered by a world, such as Georgian stewed meat, Uzbek
brands used by herders), as well as a miniature Just about every block in downtown colourful samiyan (Rajasthani tent), so it’s manti (lamb dumplings) and Kyrgyz pancakes.
felt ger with faux fire and furniture. Start your Ulaanbaatar has a Korean barbecue restaurant. easy to escape to India for an hour or two It has a great atmosphere, with pictures of the
meal with a ‘soup of power’ (flavoured with And if you don’t spot one of those, a Chinese, while you dine on excellent murgh makhni, old Soviet republic capitals, statues of Lenin
aarts, a type of sour whey), and then try any Japanese or Indian restaurant won’t be far naan basket and saffron rice. In terms of pure and covers of old Russian magazines.
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Los Bandidos (Map pp70-1; x314 167, 9919 4618; as a nice lamb roll with blackcurrant sauce Emerald Bay (Map pp70-1; x320 120; Tserendorjiin Cafés
Baga Toiruu north; dishes T4000-5000; h11.30am-midnight) on a bed of greens. The house speciality is the Gudamj; mains T6000-10,000) Excellent Mediterranean In summer, most restaurants disgorge deck
This place is advertised as ‘the only Mexican Veranda, a tender, flavourful grilled beef ten- menu includes pork gyros (T6500) and grilled salmon chairs and tables to the pavements, forming
and Indian restaurant in Mongolia’, a claim derloin that goes well with one of the Italian (T10,000). Vegetarians should be able to find a salad or an excellent café culture where you can sip
that we won’t try to argue with. It serves na- wines on offer. The atmosphere is very com- soup to their liking. a coffee or Coke and watch Ulaanbaatar go
chos, fajitas, enchiladas and burritos, as well fortable; rather than chairs you sit on couches, Bonito (Map p64; x9909 1421; Namyanjugiin Gudamj; about its business.
as meals hot from the tandoori oven. and there are fine views of the Choijin Lama hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun) Sacher’s Café (Map pp70-1; x324 734; Baga Toiruu
Pizza Della Casa (Map pp70-1; x324 114; Peace Ave; Temple Museum. For T12,000 you get an all-you-can-eat feed of Brazilian west; snacks T500-2000, light meals T3000; h9am-9pm)
pizzas T4000-6000; hnoon-11pm) This longtime Strings (Map p64; x365 158; Damdinbazaryn Gudamj; meats, soups and salads. It also serves wine and excellent Mongolia’s first genuine bakery, this German-
favourite dishes up some of Mongolia’s best dishes T6500-10,500; hnoon-midnight) One of the cocktails. owned operation doles out filter coffee, pret-
pizzas, pastas and calzone at reasonable prices. most popular places in town, thanks largely to zels, pastries and excellent fresh bread. It has a
The toon (tuna) is highly recommended. the in-house rock band from the Philippines. Brew Pubs nice outdoor patio, where you can enjoy read-
There are two locations, the Peace Ave one Moneyed expatriates from the US favour the The following establishments fall under the ing the local English newspapers or imported
is near the Peace & Friendship Building, and place – the Hard Rock Café atmosphere pro- categories of restaurant and bar. You can German magazines. The menu includes hot
the second is in the Sky Shopping Mall. It has vides a taste of home. For a filling meal try the enjoy excellent food (and they are kid-friendly soups and sandwiches.
free delivery for orders over T7500. fajitas, the Hawaiian pork stir-fry or a teriyaki too), but by late evening they cater mainly oMichele’s French Bakery (Map pp70-1;
Marco Polo (Map pp70-1; x318 433; Seoul St 27; pizzas chicken sandwich. towards a drinking crowd. x9916 9970; items T750-4100; h8am-8pm; wi-fi) A
T4500-6500; h11am-midnight) The place has brick- Silk Road Bar & Grill (Map pp70-1; x318 864, 9191 Ikh Mongol (Map pp70-1; x305 014; Seoul St; meal popular haunt among savvy Ulaanbaatar ex-
oven pizza that is considered by many to be 0211; Jamyn Gunii Gudamj 5/1; meal with drink T7500; h12.30- with beer T6000-8000; hnoon-midnight) The flagship patriates, this bakery and coffee shop serves
the best in town. The décor is a bit odd – a 11pm) Owner and chef Enkhee (aka Eddie) is restaurant for APU, one of Mongolia’s largest an array of reasonably priced treats, including
mix of European ambience plus Mongolian Mongolia’s original restaurateur. Silk Road, his food and alcohol producers, Ikh Mongol doles apple strudel (T750) and chocolate croissants
antiques, tsam masks and the odd mastodon third restaurant, features lots of cosy couches out huge platters of grilled meat and jugs of (T800). You can also enjoy panini sandwiches
tusk thrown in for good measure. Try not to and bas-relief scenes of the ancient Silk Road beer. Needless to say, it’s not a great place for (T2200) and crepes (T2200 to T4100) while
let the kiddies wander off unaccompanied, from China to Europe. The menu reflects the calorie-watchers. There is daily live music listening to a great music playlist. Coffee and
Ulaanbaatar’s most notorious strip club is name of the place, and you’ll find sprinklings of (10pm) and a large beer patio built on two lev- other hot drinks are available; no alcohol
right upstairs! Indian, Central Asian and Mediterranean treats, els. It’s on the east side of the State Circus. is served but the owner Alex allows you to
Millie’s Café (Map pp70-1; x330 338; Marco Polo including shish kebabs, chicken tikka and pork Chinggis Club (Map pp70-1; x325 820; Sükhbaataryn bring in a bottle of wine or beer to round off
Bldg; lunch mains T5000, dinner mains T12,000; h9am- gyros (pitta with meat and vegetables). You can Gudamj 10; large beer T1800, meal with beer T6000-8000; your meal.
4pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat) Drop by Millie’s at noon try a sampling of these at the Sunday smorgas- h10am-midnight) Microbrewery serving some Stupa Café (Map pp70-1; x319 953; Builder’s Sq,
any day of the week and you’ll find the place bord (between 12.30pm and 3pm). of the best beer in the country. There’s also a Juulchin Gudamj; snacks T1500-2000; h10am-8pm Mon-
packed with consultants, aid workers and California (Map pp70-1; x319 031; Seoul St; meal with filling meat-and-potatoes menu designed by Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) This very charming café
journalists sipping excellent shakes and gob- drink T9000; h8am-midnight) One of Ulaanbaatar’s a German chef. is decked out with orange ger furniture and
bling steak sandwiches and lemon pie. The most popular restaurants, this place has an Khan Brau (Map pp70-1; x324 067; Chingisiin Örgön photos of camel trains. It also has a shelf full of
restaurant completely changes for dinner array of eclectic menu items, including a Thai Chölöö; meal with beer T6000-8000; h11am-midnight) English-language books and magazines, which
time; tablecloths are spread out, candles are steak salad with Caesar dressing, authentic Popular European-run place in the city centre, you can read while enjoying a sandwich, cof-
lit and a gourmet menu appears. Dinner is a chicken tacos and shorlog (shish kebab with the porch attracts a good crowd in summer. fee or tea (you can also check the books out
fusion of Mediterranean, Cuban and South cream sauce). All of these are recommended. There is live music from Tuesday to Saturday. against a deposit). It’s also a great place if you
African cuisines; presentation is perfect and There is a huge variety of food to choose from Grand Khaan Irish Pub (Map pp70-1; x336 666; have kids as there are toys to keep tots occu-
taste impeccable. and the portions are generous and heavy on Seoul St; meal with beer T7000; h11am-midnight; wi-fi) pied. Ask about seasonal treats; in late sum-
Le Bistro Français (Map pp70-1; x320 022; Ikh the calories (this place is a real diet killer). It’s Big crowds, lots of smoke, free-flowing beer mer you can buy Khövsgöl berries mixed with
Surguuliin Gudamj 2; pasta T5000, meat dishes T9000- also one of the few places in town that is open and loud music set the scene for Ulaanbaatar’s tarag (yogurt). It’s part of the FPMT Buddhist
15,000; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & for breakfast. most popular night spot. The pub-grub menu centre and profits go towards supporting the
Sun) The soft lighting, cream-coloured walls Other recommendations: includes an array of salads. An attached café restoration of Buddhism in Mongolia.
and French art give this bistro a peaceful, Ala Turka (Map pp70-1; x9900 5341; Peace Ave; (open 8am to 10pm) serves espressos, cap- Café Amsterdam (Map pp70-1; x321 979; cnr Peace
romantic ambience. Having settled in, enjoy dishes T2000-4500; h10am-midnight) Filling platters of puccinos and croissants, plus English and Ave & Baruun Selbe Gudamj; items T1500-3000; h7am-mid-
a starter of Burgundy snails followed by a Turkish food. If you want doner kebab, arrive before 7pm German breakfasts. night; wi-fi) At the time of writing this place was
Chateaubriand flambé with cognac, washed because they usually run out. Brau Haus (Map pp70-1; x490 071; Seoul St; meal with set to open as Mongolia’s first literary café.
down with a French red wine. We were a bit El Latino (Map pp70-1; x311 051; Peace Ave 3; dishes beer T8000; h11am-midnight) ‘Two slices of crusty The Dutch owners have promised café au lait,
disappointed with the pastas, but the meat T2500-4000; h11am-10pm) Cuban restaurant with pork roast’ and ‘one whole pork knuckle’ may pannekoeken (crepes) and homemade cheese
dishes are highly recommended. Ice cream colourful décor. However, the chef is from Belarus so there not sound like the most appetizing menu items, (in season), as well as shelves of books that
and crepe desserts are excellent. are also some tasty Russian dishes. but rest assured this brew pub can serve up you can borrow, trade or buy. Poetry readings
oVeranda (Map pp70-1; x330 818; Jamyn UB Deli (Map pp70-1; x325 240; Seoul St 48; mains some tasty dishes to go with tall glasses of beer. and guest speakers are expected so check the
Gunii Gudamj 5/1; mains T6000-8000; hnoon-midnight) T3500-5000; h10am-9pm) American-owned restaurant The bar has an attractive, airy layout, made chalkboard for upcoming events.
One of the most popular places in town, this that specialises in big sandwiches, including Philly cheese more interesting with some B&W photos of old Narya Café (Map pp70-1; x317 098, 9911 1361;
Italian restaurant excels at meat dishes, such and grilled reuben. It delivers for a small fee. Ulaanbaatar. It has live music on Friday. Builder’s Sq, Juulchin Gudamj; sandwiches T2500-3500;
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h8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; wi-fi) The 9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) An old stand- clean and safe watering holes in the down- Other recommendations:
Latin music playing in the background, ochre- by, this cafeteria-style place has good-value town area and while there is no bar district, Crystal Lounge (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave; cocktails
painted walls and contemporary artwork burgers and spaghetti. Long lines form during they are still close enough to put together T3500-6000; h6pm-midnight) The stunning white-on-
make for a pleasant sight when entering this lunch hour. some semblance of a pub crawl. Many im- white décor and bubbling water in the walls makes for
laid-back café. The menu offers reasonably Indra (Map pp70-1; x323 769; Jigjidjavanyn Gudamj ported beers are available, but the brand of a mystifying experience, like stepping into a scene from
priced sandwiches, soups and home-baked 9; meals T1500-2000; h9am-9pm) Located just off choice is the locally brewed Chinggis, which 2001: A Space Odyssey. It serves cocktails only.
muffins, plus hot dishes such as a ‘sloppy dorj’ the Square, this popular eatery, housed in comes in green cans or on tap. City regula- Greenland (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave; beer T1000-1800;
(the Mongolian version of a sloppy joe). Food a converted basketball court, serves decent tions require that bars close at midnight, after hnoon-midnight Jun-Aug) Oktoberfest-style tent,
quality can be inconsistent. pasta, ramen (Japanese egg noodles), salad which time you can continue drinking at a opposite Sükhbaatar Sq. It’s open in summer only.
Ananda Café & Meditation Centre (Map pp70-1; and pizzas. nightclub. Airag (koumiss; fermented mare UB Club (Map pp70-1; x8800 3639; Juulchin Gudamj)
x316 986; Baga Toiruu west; meals T3000; h10am-8pm milk) is available on sidewalk gers in sum- Grungy student club with mismatched furniture, foosball,
Mon-Sat) Enjoy herbal teas and some excellent Self-Catering mer, usually after Naadam. Besides the places billiards and darts.
vegetarian dishes made from rice, buckwheat, These days there are very few things you following, try the brew pubs (p89) or enjoy a
tofu, lentils and other natural products. can’t get in the city if you look hard enough, drink at one of the open-air beer and shashlik ENTERTAINMENT
Vegetarian buuz and khuushuur are also avail- though you may have to visit several mar- stands that open in summer near the State Culture vultures will want to check the
able. Profits from the café go to supporting a kets to track them down. Most markets are Department Store. weekly English-language UB Post or Mongol
local orphanage, the Lotus Children’s Centre, open from about 10am to 8pm daily. There Dave’s Place (Map pp70-1; x9979 8185; mongoliadave Messenger for events. The Arts Council of
and as the name suggests, yoga classes are are also several shops that specialise in items @yahoo.com; wi-fi) This bar on the patio of the Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x319 015; www.artscouncil
available, as are vegetarian cooking classes. imported from the US; try the 1st floor of Palace of Culture near the Square offers the .mn) produces a monthly cultural events cal-
Chez Bernard (Map pp70-1; x8810 0135; Peace Ave the Nayra Café (p89) or the 2nd floor of popular Thursday ‘Quiz Night’, starting at endar, which covers most theatres, galleries
27; dishes T4000-6000; h9am-8pm) The most popu- Ayanchin Outfitters (p94), both of which 8.30pm. Winners receive a jar of cash and and museums. You can pick up a brochure at
lar backpacker hangout in Ulaanbaatar, this stock rare treats such as Snapple and Arizona free beer. In cool weather the whole operation hotel lobbies or the MIAT office. Theatres and
Belgian-owned café has European breakfast Iced Tea. retreats to a speakeasy-style bar in the base- galleries sometimes post English ads outside
platters crammed with fruit, cheese, yogurt, Container Market (Map pp70-1; Bömbögör market; Ikh ment. It was closed at the time of research but or you could just buy a ticket and hope for
eggs, bacon and toast. Food quality is some- Toiruu west; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) This is the cheap- will hopefully be re-opened. the best.
what hit-and-miss and the bakery items are est place for everyday food purchases. Half the Dublin (Map pp70-1; x328 626; Seoul St) With a
overpriced (T1500 to T2500), but the place market burned down in 2006 but there are cosy atmosphere, cream-coloured walls and Theatre
does have atmosphere, especially in summer plans to rebuild and expand. It’s just south dark wood finish, Dublin does a fine job of TRADITIONAL MUSIC & DANCE
when you can sit on the deck. There’s a noti- of Bakula Rinpoche Süm. transplanting a bit of Ireland to the steppes. A performance of traditional music and
ceboard for organising trips to the countryside Minii Delguur & Merkuri Markets (Map pp70-1; It’s a popular expat hangout (especially dance will be one of the highlights of your
or swapping used books. It also sells new and h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Merkuri for miners), but also frequented by young visit to Mongolia and should not be missed.
used camping gear. (Мэркури) is sort of a flea market for food Mongolians. There is plenty of alcohol on tap, You’ll see outstanding examples of the unique
where you can bargain with individual ven- as well as Irish coffee and tasty pub grub. With Mongolian throat-singing, known as khöömii;
Quick Eats dors for all manner of imported goods, meat, one day’s advance notice you can order the leg full-scale orchestral renditions of new and old
For something really quick and filling, order cheese and vegetables, as well as luxuries such of lamb, pan-fried in whiskey sauce (for four Mongolian music; contortionists guaranteed
some shashlik (meat kebabs), usually served as caviar and crab sticks. It’s around the back to six people, T56,000). to make your eyes water; traditional and mod-
with onions and cucumber, from any number of Minii Delguur (also known as Dalai Eej), Level (Map pp70-1; x334 444; Peace Ave; cock- ern dancing; and recitals featuring the unique
of street Uzbek vendors (June to August a more standard form of supermarket off tails T2500-5000) Chic bar and restaurant that horse-head violin, the morin khuur.
only). The best ones are next to the State Tserendorjiin Gudamj. fuses nouveau Japanese décor with bits of The Tumen Ekh Song & Dance Ensemble
Department Store or at City Café (p87). For Werner’s Deli (Map pp70-1; x5515 1419; Passage England (telephone box) and Mongolia (an- at the State Youth & Children’s Theatre (Map pp70-1;
buuz, khuushuur or other cheap Mongolian Market; h10am-7pm Sun-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat) Genuine cient Buddhist block prints behind glass). All x9666 4374, 9665 0711; Nairamdal Park; admission T6000,
favourites try a guanz (canteen or fast-food German deli serving all cold cuts and sand- manner of drinks are served, plus a selection photos T3000, video T10,000; h6pm May-Oct) is the most
restaurant; see p86); the Khaan Buuz opposite wiches, Werner’s is located at the back of the of appetizers and main items, including a popular cultural show in town, featuring tra-
the State Department Store is one example. Passage Market (the same complex as Minii mixed meat platter for four people. It’s in the ditional singers, dancers and contortionists.
There are also a few guanz on Baga Toiruu Delguur and Merkuri Market). 1st floor of an orange apartment, behind the It’s a great chance to hear khöömii and see
west opposite MIAT. State Department Store (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave 44) Peace & Friendship Building. some fabulous costumes. You can buy CDs
Soyolj (Map pp70-1; x5015 1060; Baga Toiruu; dishes The 1st floor towards the back has a very Detroit (Map pp70-1; x320 033; Seoul St; h6pm- (T20,000) of the performance after the show.
T200-500; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri) Serves warm tofu, good selection of fruit, deli and imported 2am) This US-inspired bar takes its theme from There is a café and gallery in the traditional-
freshly pressed soy milk, soups and an array of goods, though at slightly higher prices the Motor City, with photos on the walls of style hall. The Khatan Ekh National Song &
pint-sized salads. It’s a great place for vegetar- than elsewhere. professional sports from Detroit. It has a foos- Dance Group at Discovery Mongolia Information
ians tired of trying to de-mutton their buuz. ball table and sports teams from Detroit on the Centre (Map pp70-1; x330 778, 9929 9918; Narny Gudamj;
It’s one building past the Zaluuchuud Hotel, DRINKING TV for homesick Americans. Besides alcohol, admission US$6; h6pm May-Oct) is similar.
heading northwest. Although vodka remains the drink of choice you can order burgers, fries and sandwiches. The Moonstone Song & Dance Ensemble
Berlin (Map pp70-1; x328 505; cnr Baruun Selbe in the countryside, most Ulaanbaatarites Live music is staged on Friday at 10pm. It’s at Tsuki House (Map pp70-1; x318 802; admission T7000,
Gudamj & Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö; meals T1500; h9am- prefer beer these days. There are many good, under BD’s Mongolian Barbeque. photos US$5, video US$10; h2pm, 4pm, 6pm & 8pm May-Oct)
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puts on a Mongolian cabaret. You get the lot: Paul Sartre, as well as various Mongolian play- Silence (Map pp70-1; x 7011 0020; Sambugiin are loosening up a little but it’s better to err
contortionists, throat singers, musicians, tsam wrights. There are only between six and 10 Örgön Chölöö; admission T5000; h10pm-4am Mon-Sat) on the side of discretion when asking about
mask dancers and an electrifying shaman dance performances every month, and schedules are Multilevel dance club with blood-red lights meeting places.
done in contemporary fashion. One drink is sporadic. Check show listings in the UB Post. igniting the bar and waiters that can’t keep
included in the price of the ticket and food is You can buy tickets in advance at the book- track of your tab. The place gets going after Circus
available. Tsuki House is the modern glass build- ing office, which is on the right-hand side of 1am and the DJ plays mainly trance music. State Circus (Map pp70-1; x320 795) In the recog-
ing next to the Circus (on the north side). the theatre. Ismuss (Map p64; x9981 8181; Peace Ave; h2pm- nisable round building with the blue roof at
The Mongolian National Song & Dance Ensemble On the left-hand side of the theatre, as you 2am) The centrepiece of this multilevel club is the end of Tserendorjiin Gudamj. There are
(www.mon-ensemble.mn) puts on performances approach it from the road, is a door that leads a 7m-tall statue of Joseph Stalin, which once usually a variety of acts including acrobatics
for tourists throughout the summer in the to a puppet theatre (x323 959; adult/chid T1000/500; stood in front of the National Library. Even if and juggling, and extraordinary contortion-
National Academic Drama Theatre (Map pp70-1; x324 h2.30pm Sat & Sun), which is great if you are you are not into nightclubs this slice of retro ists, but it was closed for renovations at the
621; cnr Seoul St & Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; admission T7000; travelling with children. Soviet chic is a must-see. time of research.
h6pm). Shows are less frequently staged at
the Palace of Culture (Map pp70-1; x321 444) on the Nightclubs Live Music Sport
northeast corner of Sükhbaatar Sq. Ulaanbaatar has a lively nightlife that has ma- History Club (Map pp70-1; x311 732; www.mongolia The annual Naadam features wrestling, horse
You can also see traditional song and dance tured in recent years – you can experience historytravel.com; Juulchin Gudamj; hnoon-midnight) racing and archery; see boxed text, p96, for
at the Choijin Lama Temple Museum (see everything from small jazz bars and cocktail This restaurant and bar is popular with the more details. In the lead-up to Naadam, you
p75) in summer at 5pm. lounges to gargantuan dance halls and the locals and hosts traditional Mongolian music should be able to catch some informal, but still
odd strip club. Places go out of fashion pretty acts. The band that usually performs here is competitive, wrestling at the Naadam Stadium.
OPERA & BALLET quickly, so you’ll need to ask the locals about Legend, a five-piece group that plays contem- For wrestling at other times of the year check
Built by the Russians in 1932, the State Opera what is popular. porary music with traditional instruments. out the schedule at the Wrestling Palace (Map p64;
& Ballet Theatre (Map pp70-1; x322 854, 9919 4570; Metropolis (Map p64; x9973 0569; Sky Shopping The band usually performs Monday to Friday x456 443; Peace Ave; admission T1000-5000), which is
admission T5000-8000; hclosed August) is the salmon- Centre; admission T5000; h8pm-4am) The most styl- at 8pm but its schedule changes frequently so the ger-shaped building south of the Chinggis
pinkish building on the southeast corner of ish place in Ulaanbaatar, Metropolis has a you’ll need to call ahead to find out when it’s Khaan Hotel. Wrestling and basketball are also
Sükhbaatar Sq. On Saturday and Sunday large dance floor and a VIP voyeur terrace. on. There is also karaoke, dancing and skilfully held at the Central Sports Palace (Map pp70-1; Baga
evenings throughout the year, and sometimes The French-Cambodian DJ plays an eclec- prepared Mongolian cuisine. Look for the ger Toiruu) during the year.
also on weekend afternoons in the summer, tic mix of disco, salsa, pop, rock and techno. sticking out of the side of the building. On weekends during the short summer
the theatre holds stirring opera (in Mongolian) Monday and Tuesday are reserved for elec- River Sounds (Map pp70-1; x320 497; Olympiin Örgön (but not around the time of the Naadam),
and ballet shows. tronica. Drinks go for T4000 to T6000. It’s Chölöö; admission T5000; h8pm-3am) This is one of the Mongolian Football League plays football
One of the best local operas is Three Fateful set inside a large vault next to the entrance to the best places to hear music as it’s a dedicated (soccer) matches at a football pitch (Map p64)
Hills – sometimes known as the Story of Three the Sky Shopping Mall. live-music venue with jazz bands and the just south of the Naadam Stadium.
Lives – by Mongolia’s most famous poet and Oasis (Map pp70-1; x311 719, 9973 31222; Seoul St; occasional indie rock band.
playwright, D Natsagdorj. The debut per- admission T4000; h6pm-late) Oasis attracts a mixed Another popular place is Strings (p88), SHOPPING
formance of Chinggis Khaan, by B Sharav, crowd of expats, travellers and Mongolians. which has a house band playing classic rock After decades of dollar shops, ration tickets
was shown in 2003. Another recommended There is an outdoor patio area where you can covers. A few brew houses and bars also have and a general milieu of nonproductivity,
opera is Uran Khas, written by J Chuluun. order food off the grill. It’s tucked off Seoul St live music, including the Brau Haus (p89) capitalism has come to Ulaanbaatar with a
Other productions include an exhilarating behind a supermarket. Detroit (p91) and Grand Khaan (p89) on vengeance. Some higher-end places accept
(but long) rendition of Carmen, plus plenty Face Club (Map pp70-1; x313 961; Juulchin Gudamj; Fridays, and Khan Brau (p89), from Tuesday credit cards but cash is still king in most places
of Puccini and Tchaikovsky. men/women Sat-Thu T3000/1000, Fri T5000/3000; h7pm- to Saturday. of business.
A board outside the theatre lists the shows 3am) The Face Club is a lively little place with a
for the current month in English. Advance Tahitian theme. It has live bands and DJs. Cinema Camping Gear & Tools
purchase is worthwhile for popular shows Hollywood (Map p64; x9927 7370; Academich Tengis (Map pp70-1; x326 575; www.tengis.mn; Liberty Besides the following, there is a decent
because tickets are numbered, so it’s possible Sodnomyn Gudamj; admission free; h8pm-late) This Sq; regular show T2500, matinee T1500) Air-conditioned camping section on the 3rd floor of the
to score a good seat if you book early. The box throbbing nightclub, with DJ and elevated halls, comfortable seats (with cup holders!) State Department Store. Be well aware that
office is open 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm dance floor, is just past Dashchoilon Khiid. and a modern projection system make this Western-quality camping gear is not cheap
Wednesday to Sunday. Friday carries a T1000 cover charge. theatre a very worthwhile experience. It usu- in Mongolia so you may want to bring stuff
Muse (Map pp70-1; x312 601; Maral Tavern Bldg, Baga ally has one or two Hollywood blockbusters from home. Cheap Chinese-made products
DRAMA Toiruu; admission free; h8pm-late) One of the top (in English, subtitled with Mongolian) and a are available if you’re desperate, though
National Academic Drama Theatre (Map pp70-1; x324 nightclubs for the yuppie crowd, it’s located Korean or Mongolian film. most of it breaks down before you even leave
621, 9908 1178; cnr Seoul St & Chingisiin Örgön Chölöö; just north of the Zaluuchuud Hotel. the city.
admission T7000; h ticket sales 10am-7pm) During Zouq (Map pp70-1; x8811 9687; Peace Ave; admission Gay & Lesbian Venues Seven Summits (Map pp70-1; x329 456; www
most of the year, this large, fire-engine-red T3000; h9pm-late Mon-Sat) Egyptian-themed disco There are no dedicated gay bars as such but .activemongolia.com/7summits; btwn Peace Ave & Seoul St;
theatre shows one of a dozen or so Mongolian- with a catwalk dance floor, voyeur terrace and some members of the gay community will h10am-7pm) Stocks German-made Vaude gear,
language productions which are penned by, lots of bizarrely-shaped furniture. It’s opposite meet at one place or another for a few weeks GPS units, maps, travel books and accessories.
among others, William Shakespeare and Jean- the Square, next to the Greenland tent. and then move on. Attitudes towards gays It also hires out gear, including tents, sleeping
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bags, gas stoves, mountain bikes (US$16 per at the Egshiglen Magnai National Musical Instrument Souvenir House (Map pp70-1; x320 398; cnr Peace Canon Showroom (Map pp70-1; x8811 7444; Peace Ave)
day) and inflatable kayaks (US$25 for one day, Shop (Map pp70-1; x328 419; Sükhbaataryn Gudamj), on Ave & Khaddorjiin Gudamj) One of the largest souvenir and the Mon Nip Camera Shop (Map pp70-1; x315
US$45 for two days). It’s opposite the CPO. the east side of the Museum of Natural History. shops in town. 838; Peace Ave 30). Photo-developing studios are
Ayanchin Outfitters (Map pp70-1; x319 211; www Morin khuur range from T100,000 to T450,000, Tsagaan Alt Wool Shop (Map pp70-1; x318 591; everywhere, including the State Department
.ayanchin.com; Seoul St 21) This place sells Western and there are also yattag (zithers) and two- Tserendorjiin Gudamj) This nonprofit store, which sends Store; we like the Fuji Film (Map pp70-1; x328 554;
camping, fishing and hunting equipment, plus stringed Chinese fiddles. money directly back to the craftspeople, has all manner M-100 Bldg, Juulchin Gudamj; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
GPS units, mainly imported from the US. of wool products, including toys, clothes and artwork. It’s 8pm Sat & Sun), northwest of Sükhbaatar Sq.
Pro Shack (Map pp70-1; x 318 138, 9911 4438; Ikh Cashmere Christian-run, in case you were wondering about those
Toiruu 6) If you need tools for a self-organised The major cashmere and wool factories are Jesus Christ felt tapestries. Electronics
jeep/motorcycle trip or a generator big enough Goyo (Mongolian-American joint venture), Techie travellers will find joy at Computerland
to power a Mongolian village, drop by this Gobi Cashmere (government-owned) and Market (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) a three-
German-owned hardware outlet. The shop Buyan (owned by the prominent politician Naran Tuul market (Наран Туул Зах; off Map p64; storey building crammed with dozens of
will move in 2009 so call for its new location. Jargalsaikhan). Excellent products can be pur- h9am-7pm Wed-Mon), east of the centre, is also private dealers selling everything from flash
Northland (Map pp70-1; x9918 0001; Peace Ave 62; chased at the Gobi Cashmere shop (Map pp70-1; known as the Black Market (Khar Zakh), drives to the latest laptops. It is located behind
h10am-7pm Wed-Mon) Sells fishing tackle and x326 867; Peace Ave; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat) opposite but it’s not the sort of place where you go to the Canon Showroom (left), which also has a
Chinese-brand (but acceptable quality) camp- the Russian embassy. The State Department change money illegally and smuggle goods – computer shop.
ing gear at reasonable prices. Store has cashmere on the 2nd and 5th floors. though this certainly happens.
Shonkhor Saddles (Map pp70-1; x311 218, 9191 Tserendorjiin Gudamj, between the State The market is huge, one of the biggest in Shopping Centres
1190; [email protected]) Produces and sells saddles Circus and the State Department Store, has Asia and in summer up to 60,000 people a day Known as ikh delguur or ‘big shop’, the State
and other horse paraphernalia. The workshop around a dozen fashion shops. squeeze inside. There’s a T50 entrance fee. Department Store (Их Дэлгүүр; Map pp70-1;
is behind School No 5 on Baga Toiruu but is You can buy cheap gear for a camping trip, x319 292; Peace Ave 44; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
difficult to find on your own – contact the Fine Art among other things, but the real reason to visit 10pm Sun) is virtually a tourist attraction in itself,
owners at the internet centre opposite the Contemporary Mongolian artwork can be is to marvel at this enormous emporium. with the best products from around the city
German embassy. Ask for Tomor or Nara. purchased at a small number of galleries An undercover area has a decent selection squeezed into one building.
around town. For more information see the of clothes, such as bags, leather boots and The 1st floor has a supermarket at the back.
Antiques section on art galleries (p73). fake North Face jackets. This is also one of the The 2nd floor has outlets for clothing, cash-
The antique trade is booming in Mongolia, cheapest places to get traditional Mongolian mere and leather goods. The 3rd floor has
but you need to be careful about what you Crafts & Souvenirs clothes such as a del (T35,000) and jacket electronics, a Mobicom shop, CDs, books,
buy as some of it is illegal. Make sure the Souvenir shops are found absolutely every- (T30,000). Towards the back of the market sports equipment, camping and fishing gear.
shop you buy it from can produce a certificate where in Ulaanbaatar – just toss a stone in you’ll find saddles, riding tack and all the in- The 5th floor has a great collection of sou-
of authenticity. the air and chances are you’ll hit one. You gredients needed to build your own ger. The venirs, traditional clothing, maps and books
Amarbayasgalant Antique (Map pp70-1; x310 can pick up cheap and authentic gifts such as back area is also where you’ll find antique and about Mongolia.
000; Juulchin Gudamj 37/31; h9am-7pm) A quality landscape paintings, wool slippers, Mongolian coin dealers, but they don’t issue any official Foreign-exchange counters are found on
shop for the serious buyer, it sells enormous jackets and felt dolls. There is also a lot of documentation (unlike the antique shops in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th floors, with only
sutras, traditional headdress, Buddhist statues kitsch, such as Chinggis Khaan T-shirts and town), making it illegal to export. New items, cash changed. The store also sells phone and
and other rare items. Some of the items are key chains. On the streets you will undoubt- such as the snuff bottles (made in China any- internet cards.
creations of Zanabazar and not for sale. Great edly encounter amateur artists selling water- way), can be purchased without worry. If you are based on the east side of town,
for browsing. colours for under US$1. The market is notorious for pickpockets the Sky Shopping Centre (Map p64; x319 090;
Other shops offering a good selection: The biggest souvenir outlet is on the 5th and bag slashers so don’t bring anything you h10.30am-9pm) may be more convenient than
Eternal Art Antique Shop (Map pp70-1; x369 704; floor of the State Department Store. You’ll also don’t want to lose. Don’t carry anything on the State Department Store and offers similar
Sükhbaataryn Gudamj 1) One of the premier antique shops spot shops inside gers mounted on carts, nota- your back, and strap your money belt to your goods and services. It’s behind the Chinggis
in the city. Credit cards are accepted. bly outside the Bayangol Hotel and National body. If you feel a group of men blocking your Khaan Hotel.
Nomads Culture Antique Shop (Map pp70-1; x333 Museum of Mongolian History. way from the front, chances are their friends
939; Juulchin Gudamj 35; h10am-7pm) Smaller shop Felt carpets produced by a women’s co- are probing your pockets from behind. GETTING THERE & AWAY
opposite Amarbayasgalant. operative in Khovd are sold at Sacher’s Café A taxi to the market should cost about Air
(see p89). T1000 from the centre of town. Minibuses Chinggis Khaan International Airport is
Musical Instruments The best contemporary artwork in the come here from Peace Ave (look for the sign 18km southwest of the city. You can change
Traditional musical instruments make perfect country is on sale in the Red Ger Art Gallery ‘Зах’). To walk from the Square will take money at a branch of the T&D Bank. There’s
gifts for friends who are musically inclined. (Map pp70-1; x319 015) inside the Zanabazar about 45 minutes. Try to avoid Saturday and also a post office and internet access for T50
The morin khuur (horse-head fiddle) is par- Museum of Fine Arts (p69); it’s open during Sunday afternoons, when the crowds can per minute. A tourist booth opens when
ticularly nice as a piece of decorative art (and museum hours. be horrendous. planes arrive.
Mongolians consider it good luck to have one Other shops to try include the following: Mongolia has three domestic carriers:
in the home). Argasun (Map pp70-1; x336 565; Partizan Möngön Zaviya (Map pp70-1; Peace Ave; h10.30am- Photography MIAT, AeroMongolia and EZ Nis. The former
Gudamj 48; h10am-6pm) is a morin khuur workshop 8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7.30pm Sat & Sun) Great for There are several places to purchase cam- two both have international connections with
near Aeroflot. Other instruments are available picking up silver cups, belt buckles and jewellery. eras and camera equipment. The best are the Ulaanbaatar. Note that on domestic routes
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THE NAADAM Archery is held in an open archery stadium (Map p64) next to the main stadium but the horse
Mongolia’s penchant for war games comes to a head each summer on the vast grasslands, where racing is held about 40km west of the city on an open plain called Hui Doloon Khutag. Buses
and minivans go there from the Naadam Stadium for around T1000 (vehicles also depart from
competitors show off their skills in wrestling, archery and horse racing. The annual Naadam
the Dragon bus stand). Otherwise, most guesthouses organise transport for around US$8 (also
Festival is the much anticipated culmination of these events, and a colourful spectacle enjoyed
inquire at Chez Bernard, p90) or you could just hail a cab and pay the local rate.
by locals and tourists alike.
A unique way to experience Naadam is to camp out at the horse race area, which will give
Every village and city has a naadam; most (including the one in Ulaanbaatar) are held on 11
you some insight into the rigorous lives of the trainers. A good day to visit is 13 July when a
and 12 July, coinciding with Independence Day. Some rural naadams are held a few days before
mini-naadam is held for the benefit of trainers who missed the archery and wrestling events.
or after this date so some planning is required if you want to see one.
You could even ride your own horse to the racing grounds. Steppe Riders (www.stepperiders.com)
For travellers, rural naadams provide the opportunity to see genuine traditions and events
does four-day trips from its base near Bogd Khan Uul.
not tarted up for the sake of tourism. You’ll get closer to the action and may even be asked to
A recent addition to the Naadam programme is anklebone shooting. This entails flicking a
make up the numbers during the wrestling tournament!
sheep anklebone at a small target (also made from anklebones) about 3m away. The competition
The Ulaanbaatar Naadam, by comparison, has all the trappings of a tourist holiday, with cheesy is held in the Anklebone Shooting Area (Map p64) near the archery stadium.
carnival events and souvenir salesmen outside the stadium. The horse racing is also quite far Admission to the stadium (except for the two ceremonies), and to the archery and horse racing
from the city and because the city swells with foreign tourists at this time, you can feel like a are free, but you’ll definitely need a ticket for the opening ceremony and possibly the last round
sheep being herded around with them. The main benefit of Ulaanbaatar Naadam is that the city or two of the wrestling and closing ceremony. Ticket costs vary per section; the north side of
takes on a very relaxed mood, and there are plenty of associated concerts and theatre events. the stadium (which is protected from the sun and rain by an overhang) is more expensive with
While we recommend seeing a sum-level naadam, many tourists will do the festival in UB. If this tickets going for US$25 or more. This section is also less crowded and everyone will get a seat.
includes you, keep reading. These tickets are distributed via the tour operators and hotels.
Day one of the Ulaanbaatar Naadam starts at about 9.30am when an honour guard marches There is no ticket window for general seating but you can buy a ticket from scalpers who
into the Parliament (Government) House to collect the nine yak-tail banners that will be brought hang around the stadium. The original price will be printed on the ticket (the cheapest sections
to the stadium. Usually they exit the Parliament House from the backside. go for T2000); you can expect to pay three or four times this for the service charge. Guesthouse
The opening ceremony, which starts at about 11am at the Naadam Stadium (Map p64), includes owners normally help their guests buy tickets.
an impressive march of monks and athletes, plus song and dance routines. By comparison, almost The general seating sections are always oversold so unless you get in early you’ll end up sitting in the
nothing happens at the closing ceremony. The winning wrestler is awarded, the ceremonial yak aisle or standing by the gate. The bandstand on the west end of the stadium offers some shade.
banners are marched away, and everyone goes home. It is held at about 7pm on the second To find out what is going on during the festival, look for the events programme in the two
day, but the exact time depends on when the wrestling finishes. English-language newspapers.

with MIAT and Aero Mongolia you can Development Bank. It is the cheapest airline Dalanzadgad (T13,300, 12 hours), all leaving Hitching
carry 15kg but EZ Nis allows 20kg. You’ll pay in Mongolia. between 7.30am and 8am. Hitching is a necessary form of transport in
around T1500 per kilogram over the limit. For Foreign airline offices include the The western bus station, called the Dragon the countryside, but is less certain and more
details of international flights to Ulaanbaatar, following: (Luu) Avto Vaksal (Dragon bus stand; off Map p64; x634 difficult to organise out of Ulaanbaatar. Most
see p266. Flight days always change so check Aeroflot (Map pp70-1; x320 720; www.aeroflot 902), is on Peace Ave, 7km west of Sükhbaatar Mongolians get out of the capital city by bus,
updated schedules. The airlines accept credit .ru; Seoul St 15; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) US Sq. The station has a daily bus to Tsetserleg minibus, train or shared jeep/taxi, and then
cards for international and domestic flights. dollars and credit cards are accepted. (T10,500, 11 hours), Arvaikheer (T9000, 10 hitch a ride on a truck for further trips around
If paying cash, foreigners are supposed to use Air China (Map p64; x328 838, 452 548; www.fly hours) and Dundgov (T7100, six hours), all de- the countryside, where there is far less public
US dollars only. -airchina.com; Ikh Toiruu Bldg 47; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm parting at 8am. A bus to Kharkhorin (T10,000, transport. Unless you can arrange a ride at a
Aero Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x283 029; www.aero Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun) Located on Big eight hours) leaves at 9am. Two buses travel guesthouse, you should do the same.
mongolia.mn; MPRP Bldg; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Ring Rd in the northeast of town. to Erdenet (T8000, seven hours) at noon and
Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) is inside the Mongolian People’s Korean Air (Map pp70-1; x326 643, fax 320 602; 2pm, while four buses go to Darkhan (T4500, Minivan & Jeep
Revolutionary Party (MPRP) headquarters of www.koreanair.com; 2nd fl, Chinggis Khaan Hotel; four hours) at 9am, 10am, 3pm and 4pm. On Minivans and buses heading for destinations
the Square, next to the Ulaanbaatar Hotel. h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Payment in US dollars and tögrög. Monday Wednesday and Friday a bus travels in the north and west (but not east) leave from
Blue Sky Aviation (Map pp70-1; x312 085; www United Airlines (Map pp70-1; x323 232; www.united to Bulgan (T7900, eight hours) at 8am. the Dragon (Luu) Avto Vaksal (Dragon bus stand; off
.blueskyaviation.mn; Peace Ave) has one nine-seat .com, [email protected]; Air Trans office, Sükhbaataryn A third station is located at Teeveriin Tovchoo Map p64; x634 902) on Peace Ave, 7km west of
Cessna 208 aeroplane available for charter Gudamj 1; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Handy (Map pp70-1; Undsen Khuulin Gudamj), the old bus Sükhbaatar Sq. Minivans for all destinations
flights. The office is in the same building as for booking flights out of Seoul and Beijing. station, about a 10- to 15-minute walk from use the Naran Tuul market. For the Gobi, the
Seven Summits, opposite the post office. the centre. It has a bus to Mörön (T20,000) Mandalgov-bound minivans use the Dragon
EZ Nis (Map pp70-1; x313 689; www.eznis.com; 8 Bus departing at noon on Monday, Wednesday bus stand while vans for Ömnögov usually
Zovkhis Bldg; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) is the Two stations handle most bus traffic. The and Friday. Buy tickets in the New Mind use Naran Tuul.
newest airline in the country and has an office eastern depot, Bayanzürkh Avto Vaksal (off Map building behind the station or call x9925 Overall, the Dragon bus stand is better for
is on Seoul St. p64; x463 386), is 6km east of Sükhbaatar Sq. 8048 for info. the casual traveller (riders at Naran Tuul are
The head office of MIAT (Map pp70-1; x322 The station has daily buses to Choibalsan Bus tickets can be purchased two days prior often traders with lots of bulky luggage to deal
118, 1881; www.miat.com; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm (T15,800, 13 hours), Baruun-Urt (T13,800, 11 to travel. Tickets purchased on the same day with). Naran Tuul, however chaotic, has many
Sun) is on Baga Toiruu west, near the Trade & hours), Öndörkhaan (T7500, five hours) and of travel may carry a higher price. more vehicles leaving throughout the day.
ULAANBAATAR 98 U L A A N B A ATA R • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U L A A N B A ATA R • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 99

ULAANBAATAR
Local bus 26, trolleybus 2 and some mini- Both stands also have jeeps and vans for
vans (ask the tout) link Dragon bus stand hire at around T400 per kilometre. Budget DOMESTIC TRAIN TIMETABLE
with Sükhbaatar Sq. Van 13 goes to the Naran travellers could try to deal directly with Destination Train No Frequency Departure Duration (hr) Fare (hard/soft seat)
Tuul market. a driver for a multiday trip, as you would
Choir 284 Fri, Sun 5.40pm 6 T2000/5300
Most departures from the bus stands are do in the countryside, although it’s usually Darkhan 271 daily 10.30am 8 T2600/6400
between 8am and 9am. If taking a long trip, get safer to go through a trusted travel agent Darkhan 211 (fast) daily 3.50pm 5 T2600/6400
to the station by 7am to sort out what’s going or guesthouse. Erdenet 273 daily 7pm 11 T3600/9000
where. Almost all services are in Russian vans The following list gives average prices for a Sainshand 285 daily 10.15am 10 T6200/9500
or jeeps. For local destinations you might find seat in a minivan or jeep to selected locations. Sükhbaatar 263 daily 7.35pm 7¾ T3500/8400
a Korean compact car or even a regular bus. You’ll also find vehicles to smaller villages, for Sükhbaatar 271 daily 10.30am 7¾ T3500/8400
Both bus stands are essentially a bunch of example, vehicles from Naran Tuul direct to Zamyn-Üüd 276 daily 4.30pm 15½ T5100/12,800
vans sitting in a lot with their destinations Dadal (T20,000) in northern Khentii. Zamyn-Üüd 34 (fast) Mon, Wed, Fri 8.05pm 12 -/T20,000
posted in the dashboard (in Cyrillic). Tell the
drivers where you want to go and you’ll be Destination Cost
directed to the correct van. Some vehicles may From Ulaanbaatar, daily trains travel to GETTING AROUND
Altai (Алтай) T35,000
be ready to go but others might not be leaving Arvaikheer (Арвайхээр) T13,000
northern Mongolia and on to Russia, via To/From the Airport
for another day. Baruun-Urt (Баруун-Урт) T18,000 Darkhan and Sükhbaatar, and southeast to From the city to the airport, bus 11 (T200)
Don’t expect to leave straight away, even Bayankhongor (Баянхонгор) T20,000 China, via Choir, Sainshand and Zamyn-Üüd. stops at the Ard Kino on Baga Toiruu and
if the van is already bursting with people and Bulgan (Булган) T10,000 There are also lines between Ulaanbaatar opposite the Bayangol Hotel. On its way to
cargo. There are no fixed schedules and the Choibalsan (Чойбалсан) T20,000 and the coal-mining towns of Erdenet the airport bus 22 stops near Liberty Sq and
drivers depart when they see fit. Try to find out Dalanzadgad (Даланзадгад) T24,000 and Baganuur. Ikh Toiruu, near the Cartography Co Map
exactly what time the driver is leaving and if it’s Darkhan (Дархан) T8000 Note that when buying a ticket you must Shop. Coming to the city from the airport,
not going immediately you could ask the driver Kharkhorin (Хархорин) T10,000 show identification, either a passport or a driv- it turns right on Peace Ave and then left up
to save your seat and you can return later. Khovd (Ховд) T50,000 ing licence will do (a student ID won’t work). the east end of Baga Toiruu. To find the bus
Mandalgov (Мандалговь) T12,000 stop near the airport, head out of the termi-
For more information try calling the min- Mörön (Мөрөн) T25,000 DOMESTIC nal, walk north for a few hundred metres and
ivan companies at x321 730, 634 902 or Öndörkhaan (Өндөрхаан) T12,000 The domestic railway ticket office (Map p64; x24137; look for a group of locals mingling around a
9525 3146. Tsetserleg (Цэцэрлэг) T15,000 h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-9pm) is located in the modern- tin shelter.
Dragon bus stand and Naran Tuul both Ulaangom (Улаангом) T50,000 looking building on the east side of the train
serve towns in Töv aimag. For Nalaikh (T700) Uliastai (Улиастай) T30,000 If you have a lot of gear, or don’t know
station. Unfortunately, no-one inside speaks your way around, it’s worth paying extra for
and Baganuur (T3000) use Naran Tuul. For anything except Mongolian or Russian.
Zuunmod (T1000) and Eej Khad (T8000 re- Taxi a taxi. Make sure that you pay the standard
Boards inside the office show departure times rate, at the time of writing T300 per kilometre,
turn) use Dragon bus stand. These minivans Taxis (shared or private) can only travel (in Cyrillic) and ticket prices for hard seats
go every hour or so. along paved roads, so they are only useful which works out around US$5 one way to
and soft seats. There’s also a full timetable at Sükhbaatar Sq.
for trips around Töv aimag, to the towns the information desk on the station platform.
along the main road to Russia (Darkhan, See also the boxed text (above).
MOUNTAIN BIKING NEAR Erdenet and Sükhbaatar) and to the tourist Bicycle
ULAANBAATAR
Tickets can be booked up to a month in Mongolian drivers are downright dangerous so
site of Kharkhorin. advance for an extra T450, which is not a
The cost of hiring a taxi to these places riding a bike around town can be hazardous to
The best short bike ride from Ulaanbaatar bad idea if you have definite plans and want
should be around T400 per kilometre. The your health. There are no bike lanes and you
goes from Zaisan to the Observatory. From a soft seat during peak times (mainly July to
taxi drivers may want more for waiting if you should never expect to have right of way. Seven
the city centre, travel south to the Zaisan August). If you speak Mongolian, there is an
are, for example, visiting Mandshir Khiid, or Summits (p93) rents mountain bikes for US$16
Memorial. (Try to avoid going over con- inquiries number (x24194).
because they may be returning with an empty per day. Korean-made bikes are sold opposite
gested Peace Bridge by taking Olympiin
vehicle if dropping you off somewhere remote. the State Department Store, they cost around
Örgön Chölöö over the railway tracks.) INTERNATIONAL
This is not unreasonable, but it is negotiable. US$100 and are a good investment if you plan
From Zaisan, continue in an easterly direc- The yellow International Railway Ticketing
To avoid any argument about the final to cycle for a week or more. They can probably
tion. The road follows the southern bank Office (Map p64) is about 200m northwest
charge make sure that you and the driver have be re-sold when you’re done with it.
of the Tuul River for 11km until you reach of the train station. Inside the office, specific
the road to the Observatory. Follow the firstly agreed on the cost per kilometre, and rooms sell tickets to Irkutsk and Moscow in
switchbacks uphill to the Observatory. From have discussed any extra charges. Then write Bus & Minivans
Russia, and to Beijing, Ereen and Hohhot Local public transport is reliable and depar-
the Observatory you can descend briefly down the number shown on the odometer/ in China. The easiest place to book a ticket
speedometer before you start. tures are frequent, but buses can get crowded.
through the forest to the left (as you are is in the foreigners booking office (x24133, in- Conductors collect fares (at the time of writ-
looking downhill), pick up the trail in the quiries 944 868; Room 212; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri). It’s
Train ing T200 for a bus or T150 for a trolleybus
next valley, and return to Ulaanbaatar on upstairs and staff here speak some English.
The train station (Map p64) has an informa- for any trip around Ulaanbaatar, including
the same road. It’s a two- to three-hour On weekends you can use the downstairs
tion office, a left-luggage office, a phone office, to the airport) and usually have change.
return trip. booking desk.
a hotel and a restaurant. Pickpockets and bag slashers occasionally
 © Lonely Planet Publications
ULAANBAATAR 100 U L A A N B A ATA R • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com

ply their trade on crowded routes. Seal up all Drive Mongolia (x312 277, 9911 8257; www.drive
pockets, hold your bag on your chest and be mongolia.com) offers driving tours of Mongolia,
careful when boarding. allowing you to drive the car with a backup
Minivans (T200) run along a similar route support vehicle.
to the buses. Most will run the length of Peace
Ave, often turning back at the Naran Tuul mar- Taxi
ket or the train station. They stop at the bus In Ulaanbaatar, there are official and unof-
stops or you can flag one down. Van 13 goes ficial taxis; in fact, just about every vehicle is
to the Naran Tuul market. The fixed routes a potential taxi. All charge a standard T300
posted in the windows are incomprehensible to per kilometre, though you’ll need to check
most passengers. The best way to handle these the current rate as this will increase regularly.
vehicles is to tell the conductor where you’re Don’t agree to a set daily price because you
headed and wait for a positive response. will always pay more than if you pay the stand-
For short trips it’s just as cheap to take a ard rate per kilometre. Nowadays, all taxis and
taxi, especially if there is more than one of even some private cars have meters.
you. Some useful buses and trolleybuses: Taxi drivers will definitely try to take ad-
vantage of you if you are new to the city and
Destination Bus No Trolleybus No don’t know your way around. The more con-
Airport 11, 22 - fident you appear the better chance you have
Dragon bus stand 2 26 of getting a fair deal. Know generally where
Nalaikh 33 - you are going before you get in the cab so you
Naran Tuul market 32 - don’t get ‘taken for a ride’. Always remem-
Peace Ave (east) 1, 13, 20, 21, 23 2, 4, 5, 6 ber to have the driver reset the odometer to
Peace Ave (west) 4, 21, 22, 23 2, 5, 26 zero and agree on per kilometre rate before
Train station 6, 20 4 setting off.
Winter Palace 3, 19 - Getting a taxi is just a matter of standing
Yarmag 8 - by the side of a main street and holding your
Zaisan Memorial 7 - arm out in the street with your fingers down.
Alternatively, you can find them at designated
All destinations will be in Cyrillic; the route taxi stands near the Zanabazar Museum of
number is next to the destination sign on the Fine Arts, outside the train station, in Liberty
front of the trolleybus or bus. The route is Sq and near the State Department Store. After
often marked on the side of the bus. dark, women should generally avoid using a
private car, and stick to an official taxi.
Car The most visible official taxi company is
Sixt Mongolia (Map pp70-1; x310 075; www.sixt.mn; City Taxi (x300 000), which runs a fleet of mod-
Bodi Tower 101, Sükhbaatar Sq 3; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri), ern, yellow Hyundai Accents.
which has a second office on Undsen Khuulin The Safe Taxi Company (x9979 8185; www
Gudamj, hires out Toyota Landcruisers for .safetaxi.mn) is a British-Australian run venture,
US$125 per day and Scodas for US$54 per established to provide safe and reliable trans-
day with the driver. Prices decrease if you rent port around the city and to nearby sites such as
for multiple days. If that still sounds like too Terelj and Mandshir Khiid. Airport transfers
much, you could hire a taxi by the day (most are also planned. There will be no cash trans-
hotels can organise this), and pay the usual actions with the driver: flat-fee fares are paid
rate of T300 per kilometre. Driving your own for at hotels and restaurants around the city.
car is wrought with pitfalls. A simple fender You get a chit with the destination printed
bender, whether or not it was your fault, can on it that you show to the driver. Expats and
land you in jail with a steep fine to pay. If you Mongolians can buy a pre-paid account and
rent, check the insurance policy carefully. summon a taxi by text message.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
101

Central Mongolia
Roll out of Ulaanbaatar in a Russian jeep and you’ll only need to put a hill or two between
yourself and the city before the vast steppes of cental Mongolia begin to unfold before
your eyes. Verdant swaths of empty landscapes are sprinkled with tiny gers stretching to

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
the horizon while magical light plays through clouds and across the valleys.

But central Mongolia offers more than steppes. Landscapes are broken by the forested
hillsides of the Khan Khentii range, meandering rivers such as the Tuul and lunar-like lava
fields spilling across central Arkhangai. The silhouette of a lone horseman on a hill or camels
caravanning in the distance completes every perfect day.

The rivers and back trails of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park beckon the outdoor enthusiast.
At Khustain National Park you can break out the binoculars and spot the reintroduced takhi
horse. Alternatively, set out from Ulaanbaatar on foot, climb the holy Bogdkhan Uul to the
south of the city, and camp out by Mandshir Khiid. Travelling by horse is another great way to
get around the region. Travellers with more time on their hands can spend weeks exploring
the ancient sites and remote areas of the mighty Khangai and its surrounding plains.

Central Mongolia’s aimags (provinces), Töv, Arkhangai and Övörkhangai, are the most vis-
ited areas in the countryside. The roads and transport are far better here than in the rest of
Mongolia, and there is plenty to see, including ancient monasteries, gorgeous lakes and many
national parks. The people, mostly comprising the Khalkh majority, are accustomed to foreign-
ers, and you can expect somewhat better services than in other parts of the country.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Saddle up and go on a horse trek to the

beautiful but remote Naiman Nuur Nature Terkhiin
Tsagaan
Gorkhi-Terelj
Reserve (p119) Nuur
National Park

„ Pedal your way over the hills and through Tövkhön

Khiid Khustain
the valleys of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park National Park
(p104) on a mountain bike and cap the Naiman Nuur
experience with a night at a ger camp Nature Reserve

„ Focus your camera lens on the magnificent

takhi (wild horse) at Khustain National Park
(p115), where the wild horse roams free
once again
„ Hike into the forests to the splendid Tövkhön Khiid (p124), the site of religious leader and
artist Zanabazar’s workshop and meditation centre
„ Camp by the striking Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (p130), a volcanic lake offering great fishing
and lovely sunsets

„ POPULATION: 289,100 „ AREA: 199,000 SQ KM

 102 C E N T R A L M O N G O L I A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L M O N G O L I A 103

CENTRAL MONGOLIA 0
0
100 km
50 miles

Khangal

Gol
Kharaa Gol
giin Nuruu Sant Sharyngol an G
ol
Zuun
Dulann Khaan
Büren Baruunbüren Sharl

öö
Solongotyn Khövsgöl Rashaant Uul
Davaa Nuur (2059m) Selenge Er
Bayan Agt Bugat Erdenet
Zavkhan Shine-Ider Uran Uul Khötöl
ol (1631m)
rG
Ide Zong
Togoo Uul Bayangol Züünkharaa
Tosontsengel Tsetserleg Soum Bulgan Davaa

l
(1923m) Khan Khentii

Go
Galt Orkhontuul Strictly Protected Area

ui
an Dashchoinkhorlon

Boroo Gol
Ikh-Uul Kh Khiid Orkhon Gol Tunkhel Asralt Yestii Hot
Jargalant Saikhan Khairkhan Water Springs

ol
Khairkhan Te

Tuul G
Orkhon (2800m) r
Erdenemandal j
Khagiin Khar

el
Tarvagatai Choidogiin
Borgio Orkhon Tseel Bornuur n o gor Gol Altan-Ölgii Nuur
Jargalant

Go
ol
Uul National So g

Bu
Uul
Bulgan ol

nG

l
Park Khorgo-Terkhiin

rkh
Gorkhi- G
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
Khorgo Batsumber l

i
Tsagaan Nuur Khishig- u

utu
Uul Arkhangai Terelj Tu ol

G
National Park Chuluut Mogod Öndör

Kh
Büreg National Park Möngönmorit
Tariat Gorge Ugataaltaidam Bayanchandmani Partizan
Tsakhir Khangai

Te
Zaamar re
Terkhiin Öndör Tsogt lj
Khoid Terkhiin Gol Tsagaan Ulaan Ölziit Mogod Taijiin Khandgait Jalman Uul

Go
Nuur Bayantsogt (2051m)
Uul Khar Tsagaan

l
l
Go
(2139m) Bukh Balgas Tu
ul ULAANBAATAR Terelj
Khangai ol Fortress

ui
G Go

an
ne l

Kh
Noyon Khangai ge Ögii Dashinchilen Chinggis
National Park ich Tamir Gol Battsengel Nuur Lun Khustain Khaan Bayandelger
G Bayannuur Nuruu Biocombinat Airport Nalaikh

d
oi
National Zuunmod Erdene

Kh
Tamir Gol Gurvanbulag Baganuur
Taikhar Park Altanbulag Tonyukuk
Ikh Tamir Chuluu Ögii Khögnö
Chuluut Kultegin Khan Uul Stone Sergelen Arhurst

Tarn
Nuur Monument Nature Monuments
Tsetserleg Tsenkher Khar Reserve

ay
Öndörshireet

Orkh
Balgas Eej Khad

Gol
Gurvanbulag Khashaat Övgön Khiid
Khotont (Mother Rock)

on
Bulgan Rashaant Erdenesant

Gol
Mongol
Tsenkheriin Els Bayan
Khangai Khaluun Us Erdene
Kharkhorin Zuu Batkhaan Uul Bayanjargalan
Jargalant Nuruu Khiid Natural Reserve
National Park Shankh Töv
Tövkhön Khiid Burd
ol

Zag Chandiman Zurkh ol

Bayanbulag on G
rag G

Uul (3486m) h Bayan

Tunkhel Orkhon Ork Önjuul
Khujirt
Khürkhree
Baid

Bat-Ölzii Buren
Galuut Esönzüil Bayantsagaan
Khuisiin
Myangan NaimanNuur
Khüreemaral t Gol Ugalzat Uul Nature Reserve
Olzii (3483m) Bayan- Delgerkhaan
Naiman Nuur Züünbayan-Ulaan Öndör
(Eight Lakes) Choir
Uyanga Tsagaandelger
Bayan-Ovoo Erdenetsogt
Buutsagaan Bömbögör Baga Gazryn
Arvaikheer Övörkhangai Chuluu
Bayankhongor Deren
Süm
On

Sant Khökh Baga

Gazryn Delgertsogt
g

Burd
iin

Uul
Go

Nariinteel Erdenedalai (1768m) Govi-Ugtal

l

Khairkhandulaan Ikh Gazryn

Bayankhongor Chuluu

Bayangol Bayanjargalan
Khuren Mandalgov
Öndör Uul Böön Tsagaan-Ovoo
Gov- (2725m) Tsagaan
Altai Nuur Baatsagaan
Tögrög Gurvan
Guchin-Us Saikhan
Zon Uul Luus
(3452m) Jinst Saikhan-Ovoo
Ongiin Delgerkhangai Dundgov
Baruunbayan Khiid Uul Öndörshil
Ulaan (1913m) Delgerkhangai
Bayantsagaan Orog
Nuur
Baga Terguun Bogd Khuld
Ikh Bogd Uul
Bayan-Öndör Uul (3957m) (3598m)
Bayangovi

Shinejist Tsagaan
Zagiin Us
Bogd Ulaan Mandal-Ovoo Ulaan Bayan Nature
Amarbuyant Bayanlig Khovd Suvraga
Khiid Nuur Suvraga Dobo Suma Reserve
Mandakh

Ömnögov Tsogt Ovoo Ölziit

Moltzog
Els
Dornogov

Gurvan Saikhan Bayanzag

Natural Park Manlai
Bulgan
Nemegt Uul Gobi Desert
(2769m) Khongoryn
Altan Uul To Dalanzadgad
(2273m) Els
(20km)
 104 C E N T R A L M O N G O L I A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T Ö V • • Z u u n m o d 105

History steppe into a photogenic shade of green. Khiid or Orkhon Khürkhree you’ll need and most travellers pass through quickly on
The many deer and ‘animal art’ stele found in Summer temperatures reach from 24°C to your own transport. Horse is the best way to their way to Dundgov aimag.
the valleys of Arkhangai aimag are evidence 30°C. October will bring cool evenings and reach Naiman Nuur. In Arkhangai, the main Although Töv lies close to industrial
of tribal existence here around 1300 BC, but snow flurries before the onset of winter. road is one of the few routes in Mongolia Ulaanbaatar, its economy remains almost
the region really came into its own in the 3rd where hitchhikers can easily get to a few exclusively agricultural. This way of life has
century BC, when the nomadic Xiongnu set National Parks & Nature Reserves places of interest, including Taikhar Chuluu come under threat as poorer nomads are giv-
up a power base in the Orkhon valley. Various Gorkhi-Terelj National Park (293,200 hectares) A and Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur. ing up and moving to the city; between 2004
‘empires’ rose and fell in the Xiongnu’s wake, playground for Ulaanbaatarites. The park contains numer- A jeep is fine for getting around, but trav- and 2007 the population of Töv decreased by
including the Ruan-Ruan, the Tujue and the ous ger camps and two golf courses. It’s more pristine elling by horse grants the best access via the more than 20%.
Uighurs, who built their capital at Khar Balgas north of the Terelj Gol. river valleys and into the mountains.
in 715 AD. These Turkic-speaking peoples Khangai Nuruu (888,455 hectares) Encompasses most of ZUUNMOD ЗУУНМОД
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
held sway over vast portions of Inner Asia
and harassed the Chinese (whose attempts to
the Khangai mountain range, protecting crucial watersheds
and a variety of animals including ibex and argali sheep. TÖV ТӨВ x01272 / pop 14,300 / elev 1529m
In great contrast to the big city on the other
defend the Great Wall were never really suc- Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve (46,900 hectares) pop 88,500 / area 81,000 sq km side of the mountain, Zuunmod is a peanut-
cessful). They had their own alphabet and left This nature reserve protects wolf and fox that inhabit the Sitting atop the pine-clad, boulder-strewn sized place that typifies the provincial capitals
several carved steles that describe their heroes desert-steppe area. slopes of the Khan Khentii range, it’s hard of Mongolia. There is little reason to linger
and exploits. The most famous is the Kul- Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park (77,267 to believe that Ulaanbaatar with its one in the capital of Töv but you’ll probably pass
Teginii Monument (p129), located relatively hectares) Protected area for migratory birds as well as fish. million citizens lies just a mountain range through the town on the way to Mandshir
close to Khar Balgas. The park includes lakes, cinder cones and volcanic flows. or two away. The proximity of Töv to the Khiid or Bogdkhan Uul National Park. Phone
Chinggis Khaan and his merry men were Khustain National Park (50,620 hectares) Important capital has by no means spoiled its pristine calls can be made from the Telecom Office,
only the latest in a string of political and mili- rehabilitation site for takhi horses. Also contains gazelle, landscape, allowing for easy access to the which also has an internet café (x22044; per
tary powers to use the Orkhon valley as a base. marmot and wolf among other creatures. great outdoors. person T600; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri).
Chinggis never spent much time here, using Töv has some restored monasteries
it mainly as a supply centre for his armies, Getting There & Away including the pretty Mandshir Khiid in Sights
but his son Ögedei built the walls around A paved highway, running from Ulaanbaatar Bogdkhan Uul National Park. It also has The chief attraction in Zuunmod is the Central
Karakorum (near present-day Kharkhorin) to Kharkhorin, is traversed by share jeeps, a few oddball sights; you can visit the ex- Province Museum (x23619; admission T1000; h9am-
in 1235, and invited emissaries from around minivans and buses that depart daily from cessively large Chinggis Khaan statue near 1pm & 2-6pm), opposite the southeast corner of
the empire to visit his court. the Dragon and Naran Tuul bus stands Nalaikh, lunch at a mock-up 13th-century the park – look for the sign in English. There
Centuries after the fall of the Mongol em- in Ulaanbaatar. Mongol war camp and sleep in the bizarrely are exhibits on local history and a section
pire it was religion, rather than warriors, that If coming from western Mongolia to UB, named Dresden Ger Camp. of stuffed animals including an enormous
put the spotlight back on central Mongolia. the route through Arkhangai is more interest- A large portion of the aimag is made moose. It also has some interesting black-
Erdene Zuu Khiid (Buddhist monastery) ing than the dull journey via Bayankhongor – up of the Gorkhi-Terelj, Khan Khentii and and-white photos of Mandshir Khiid, in-
was built from the remains of Karakorum the main access point is via the town of Bogdkhan Uul National Parks, which mostly cluding the once-regular tsam (lama dances,
and, with Manchu and Tibetan influence, Tosontsengel in Zavkhan. occupy the northern part of the aimag. The performed by monks wearing masks during
Buddhism pushed the native shaman faith to If you are travelling in the Gobi and southern half of Töv is bland desert steppe religious ceremonies).
the fringe of society. heading towards northern Mongolia, go
The first eight Bogd Gegeens ruled from to Bayankhongor and pick up the scenic 0 400 m
central Mongolia, and built up the most 210km road over the mountains to Tsetserleg. ZUUNMOD 0 0.2 miles

important religious centres, including Urga Hitchhikers might find a ride on a logging A B To Mandshir
Khiid (6km) C D
(now Ulaanbaatar), which shifted location truck heading north but the chances are

Ὀ
Sports To Mandshir
Palace Khiid (6km)
along the Tuul Gol (river) for more than 250 slim. You’ll save a lot of time by hiring your
years, until settling at its present site in the own vehicle. Public Bathouse
1
mid-18th century. 6 INFORMATION ENTERTAINMENT
Getting Around 5 Internet Café.........................(see 2) Cinema....................................9 A1
Climate Töv aimag has a network of good unpaved Town
Police Station...........................1 B2
Post Office.............................(see 2)
Drama Theatre.......................10 B2
Square
The central aimags lie in a transitional zone, and paved roads, so you can easily use public 9 Telecom Office........................2 A2 TRANSPORT
Minibus Stop for Ulaanbaatar..11 A2
with southern portions nudging into the transport to make day or overnight trips from Mongol
Shuudan Park SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Taxi Stand..............................12 B2
Gobi and northern areas covered in Siberian the capital. Bank 12
7
Central Province Museum........3 B2
11 Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid...........4 D2
taiga (larch and pine forests), with steppe For the other aimags, share jeeps will Government House..................5 B1
4
10
inbetween. Winter daytime temperatures of travel from the nearest provincial centre to To Ulaanbaatar
2
3 Department
SLEEPING
Store
–30°C to –15°C are typical, lasting from late other destinations, but off the main paved 2 (43km) 8 1 Government Hotel....................6 B1
November to early February. March and April road traffic throughout these regions is EATING
suffer from strong, dry winds and change- light. In Övörkhangai, public transport will Dölgöön Café...........................7 B2
Grocery Store...........................8 B2
able weather. July and August are good times get you to Erdene Zuu Khiid, Khujirt and
to travel as the wet weather finally turns the Arvaikheer, but if you want to visit Tövkhön
 106 T Ö V • • B o g d k h a n U u l S t r i c t l y P r o t e c t e d A re a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com T Ö V • • B o g d k h a n U u l S t r i c t l y P r o t e c t e d A re a 107

Not in the same league as Mandshir Khiid menacing but, once you’re on top, the forests
but worth a brief visit is Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid and rocky outcrops are a beautiful sight.
AROUND ULAANBAATAR 0
0
10 km
5 miles

S el b e
(Дашчойнхорлон Хийд), a 700m walk di-

Uliastai Gol
For information on hiking to the main Chingeltei
rectly east of the department store and across peak from Zaisan Memorial (Map p107) or

Go
Uul

l
(1949m)

Ba
the creek. If you ask the monks, you can go Mandshir, or combining the two in an over-

ruu
nT
inside the temple. Ceremonies start at around night hike from Mandshir to Ulaanbaatar,

uru
11am on most days. see opposite. For details on renting a horse, Dambadarjaa

un

ol
Khiid

ii U

tG
Töv
see p108.

uur
ul
Sleeping & Eating Entrance to the park costs T3000.

Gach
You can camp anywhere near town, al- Ulaanbataar
Golf Club Gachuurt
though Mandshir Khiid is a better option Sights
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
ULAANBAATAR
than Zuunmod. MANDSHIR KHIID МАНДШИР ХИЙД Hotel
Mongolia
The large and refurbished rooms of elev 1645m
Fly
Bayanzürkh
Government Hotel (x22184; s/d T10,000/15,000) are For the 350 monks who once called this place Mongolia
Uul
(2004m)
just about all that’s on offer in Zuunmod. home, the gorgeous setting around this monas-

Ba
Zaisan Khureltogoot
There’s a bar and restaurant downstairs. tery (Map p107; x22764; GPS: N47° 45.520’, E106° 59.675’;

ya
Memorial

nz
Observatory

ür
Ikh
Offering an eclectic range of European, h9am-sunset) must have been a daily inspi-

kh
Chinggis Khaan Ten
Nukht ger

N
Songino Airport

ur
Bogdkhan
Mongolian, Chinese and Korean dishes, ration. Like most monasteries in Mongolia, Khairkhan Uul

uu
(1841m) Uul
Dölgöön Café (x9930 8344; h10am-10pm Mon- Mandshir Khiid was destroyed in 1937 by Bogdkhan
Strickly Protected Area
Biocombinat
Sat) should have something to suit your Stalin’s thugs, but was partially restored in the Uul

Gol
(2122m)
tastes. There’s a grocery store opposite the 1990s. Just 6km northeast of Zuunmod and Tsetsegün

ul
Uul

Tu
police station. 46km by road from Ulaanbaatar, the monas- (2256m)

tery is a perfect half-day trip from the capital, Mandshir

Getting There & Away or can be used as a starting point for hikes into Khiid
Mandshir
Minivans run through the pretty country- the Strictly Protected Area. Ger Camp
side (on a paved road) between Zuunmod The main temple has been restored and Stepperiders Ovooni Enger
and Ulaanbaatar (T1000, one hour, hourly) converted into a museum, but the other build- Camp Ger Camp
Shavart Uul
Öndör Döv
between 7am and 8pm, from Ulaanbaatar’s ings in the area remain in ruins. The mon- Zuunmod
(2003m)

old bus stand (Teeveriin Tovchoo). The bus astery and museum are not as impressive as
stop in Zuunmod is just a short walk west of those in Ulaanbaatar – it is the beautiful forest If you have time, it’s worth climbing up the Observatory (six hours). You’ll need to get an
the main street. setting that makes a visit worthwhile. rocks behind the main temple, where there early start or camp overnight in the park.
A chartered taxi from Ulaanbaatar will cost As you enter from the main road from are some 18th-century Buddhist rock paintings. The trip is only really sensible from the
between US$10 and US$13 one way. Taxis can Zuunmod you’ll be required to pay an ad- The views from the top are even more beauti- beginning of June to the end of September.
be hired in Zuunmod from the taxi stand on mission fee of T5000 per person, which cov- ful, and you’ll find yourself in the midst of a During the rest of the year, no matter how
the east side of the park. The fare should be ers the T2000 museum entrance fee and the lovely pine forest. pleasant the weather is in the morning, sud-
the standard rate paid in Ulaanbaatar (around T3000 national park fee. You’ll have to buy den thunderstorms and icy winds can come
T300 per kilometre). Some drivers may want both tickets even if you don’t plan on entering Activities out of nowhere (although this happens oc-
a waiting fee for hanging around Mandshir the museum. HIKING casionally in summer as well). It’s important
Khiid if you are going up there. This is reason- From the gate it’s a couple of kilometres There are several trails but the best hiking to take a compass and know how to use it, as
able as you may be there for an hour or two. to the main area, where there is a shop, a route goes right over the top from Ulaanbaatar it’s easy to get lost in the forest. Carry all the
lacklustre museum, a restaurant and several to Mandshir Khiid. Wherever you decide to water you will need, plus extra food. Yellow
BOGDKHAN UUL STRICTLY gers offering accommodation. Look for the go you’ll be required to pay a national park paint on the trees marks the trail, but it can
PROTECTED AREA БОГДХАН УУЛ huge two-tonne bronze cauldron, which dates fee of T3000. You can do this at the gate to be hard to spot.
Legend has it that Bogdkhan Uul (Map p107; from 1726 and was designed to boil up 10 the Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area or Some scrambling over fields of granite
2122m) is the world’s oldest nature preserve. sheep at a time. at Mandshir Khiid. boulders is necessary, and the chance of slip-
It was founded in 1778 and for the next 150 The remains of the monastery are about The highest point on the range is Tsetseegün ping and injuring yourself should not be taken
years it was guarded by 2000 club-wielding 800m uphill from the museum. The care- Uul (2256m) although going here is not the lightly. It would be wise to inform a friend or
lamas that protected the mountain from taker lives in the compound next door and quickest way over the top. The most direct guesthouse owner in Ulaanbaatar of your itin-
poachers. Lawbreakers were hauled away in will open up the main building for you. The route follows a path west of Tsetseegün. erary and the time of your expected return.
chains, beaten within an inch of their lives, monastery museum has tsam masks, exhibits There are numerous approaches to the
and locked inside coffin-like jail cells. on the layout of Mandshir and some photos summit, some easier than others; most go Mandshir Khiid to Ulaanbaatar Route
These days it’s perfectly safe and legal to that show what it looked like before Stalin’s up one way and descend by another route. This approach to Tsetseegün from the south
walk on the mountain and you can enjoy some thugs turned it into rubble. Look out for the A popular option is to hike from Mandshir side is the easiest route by far. As you face
terrific hiking and horse-riding trails. From controversial Ganlin Horn, made from human Khiid to Ulaanbaatar, either to the Zaisan the monastery, cut over to your right (east)
Ulaanbaatar the mountain appears dark and thigh bones. Memorial (around a seven-hour walk) or the until you get to the stream. Just follow the
 108 T Ö V • • B o g d k h a n U u l S t r i c t l y P r o t e c t e d A re a lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T Ö V • • S o n g i n o K h a i r k h a n U u l 109

Sleeping SONGINO KHAIRKHAN UUL

FOUR HOLY PEAKS The area around the monastery is one of the СОНГИНО ХАЙРХАН УУЛ
Recreational peak baggers will be pleased to note that Ulaanbaatar is surrounded by mountains best camping spots near Ulaanbaatar. You This small mountain to the southwest of
and it’s possible to climb what is considered the ‘four holy peaks’. should get permission from the caretaker at Ulaanbaatar has the unusual name of ‘Onion
The mountains include Bogdkhan, Chingeltei, Songino Khairkhan and Bayanzürkh Uuls which the monastery if you are camping nearby, or Mountain’, possibly because wild onions grow
correspond, more or less, to the four points on the compass. Each mountain offers different just hike off into the woods. here. The mountain is close to the village of
landscapes, but between them you’ll experience pine forests, rocky outcrops, meadows and In a lovely spot amid trees about 200m Biocombinat, about 5km west of the airport.
spectacular views. Wildlife is becoming more difficult to spot but the mountains are still home northeast of the monastery’s car park, From the village, cross the wooden bridge and
to a few red deer, ibex and sable. the convenient Mandshir Ger Camp (Map p107; follow the road as it veers left, past the Songino
Weather on all the mountains can change rapidly in spring and summer, with occasional thunder, x01272-22535, 9192 4464; 4-bed ger T35,000) has hot Resort (GPS: N47° 51.153’, E106° 40.488’), towards the
cloudbursts and even snow. Despite their proximity to the capital, locals don’t often climb them showers but Mongolian-style toilets. There’s mountain itself. The road from the airport to
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
so once you’re on top you’ll probably have the mountain to yourself. If you can’t manage doing a restaurant in the grounds, but it may only Biocombinat is fairly busy so flagging down
all four but want to try one, have a go at the biggest and best – Bogdkhan Uul. be open if a tour group is staying there, so a taxi or bus shouldn’t be problem.
take some food. Horse rental here is US$5
per hour. Another good option is Ovooni EEJ KHAD (MOTHER ROCK)
stream until it nearly disappears and then and enter the forest. Look for the yellow trail Enger Ger Camp (Map p107; x9666 9964, 9930 9216; ЭЭЖ ХАД
head north. About three hours’ walking markers, which veer left when you’ve reached with/without meals US$28/15), 800m off the road to Vanloads of pilgrims can be found venturing a
should bring you out over a ridge into a broad the top. From here, the slope levels off and Mandshir (look for the sign just after entering rough 48km south of Zuunmod to the sacred
boggy meadow, which you’ll have to cross. becomes an easy walk through a pleasant for- the park gate). Mother Rock (Map pp102-3; Eej Khad; GPS: N47° 18.699’, E106°
If you’ve walked straight to the north, the est for the next two hours. If you stick to the 58.583’). Mongolians often come here to seek
twin rocky outcrops of the summit should yellow tags you’ll follow the quickest route to Getting There & Away solace and advice, and make offerings of vodka,
be right in front of you. When you start to Mandshir but will miss reaching Tsetseegün. The most accessible entrances to the park are milk and khatag (silk scarves). Pilgrims ask for
see Ulaanbaatar in the distance, you’re on the All up, this is a 15km walk. reached via Zaisan Memorial, the Observatory three wishes to be granted, circle the rock three
highest ridge and close to the two large ovoo and Mandshir. times and make three separate visits.
(a shamanistic pyramid-shaped collection Observatory Route The monastery is easy enough to visit in a There are several sacred rocks nearby that
of stones as an offering to the gods) on the This is the easiest route on the Ulaanbaatar day trip from Ulaanbaatar or Zuunmod (from are thought to generate good luck, including
summit (GPS: N47° 48.506’, E107° 00.165’). From the side, mainly because you hit the fewest boul- where it’s a 7km drive; a taxi plus waiting time one called Dog Rock, which Mongolians rub
ovoo you can return to Mandshir or descend ders. However, this route is also the least in- costs T5000). If you are walking from the north their body against to cure ailments.
to Ulaanbaatar. teresting. The walk to Tsetseegün and over to of Zuunmod it’s 6km; you can either walk Minivans depart from Teeveriin Tovchoo
A second route from the monastery begins Mandshir takes about six hours. along the main northern road after visiting (T6000 each way) at 9.30am. It’s also possible
from the left (west) side of the temples, pass- The problem is that getting to the Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid, or save some time to stop here on your way to the Gobi, but be
ing a stupa on the way up to the ridge. This Observatory (‘Khureltogoot’ in Mongolian) by walking directly north from Zuunmod, prepared for some off-roading as the jeep
route, marked with yellow tags, is faster but is difficult. You could catch a bus to Nalaikh eventually joining up with the main road. trails south of here will quickly peter out.
you’ll miss the ovoo on Tsetseegün. and get out at the toll gate, then walk the last Trekking to Mandshir by horse is a good There is nowhere to stay near Eej Khad.
Coming down from Tsetseegün the quick- 6km up the hill. Otherwise, you’ll have to idea, but Zuunmod is not set up for tourists You can camp but, for a modicum of privacy,
est way is to head due north, towards the take a taxi. and it will require some effort to track a horse pitch your tent at least 500m from the rock
Observatory and descend to the valley where down. You could ask around the ger suburbs (and crowds of pilgrims).
you’ll cross the train tracks. The road is HORSE RIDING of town, at Stepperiders (opposite), or make
close by and you can catch a taxi to town for In summer, some of the ger camps around inquiries from one of the guesthouses, such as NALAIKH НАЛАЙХ
around T3500. A longer route takes you to Mandshir Khiid rent out horses. Horses are Idre’s Guest House (p82), in Ulaanbaatar. At The poor village of Nalaikh, 35km southeast of
the Zaisan Memorial, on the southern fringe also available from Stepperiders Camp (x9988 Mandshir itself, wranglers from the nearby ger the capital, is part of the Ulaanbaatar autono-
of the city. Be careful not to drop down too 3993, 9665 9596; www.stepperiders.com; GPS: N 47° 43.649’, camps rent horses for US$5 per hour. mous municipality because it once supplied
soon or you’ll end up at Ikh Tenger, one val- E106° 47.418’), just off the main Ulaanbaatar–
ley short of Zaisan. Ikh Tenger is where the Zuunmod road. Stepperiders is run by Minde,
president lives with machine gun–wielding a recommended local horse guide who can MOTHER ROCK
guards, who will be none too pleased if you give lessons, instructions and support to During communism, visiting the sacred Eej Khad (Mother Rock) was a political crime, as it showed
drop by unannounced. If you see a flimsy independent travellers planning their own respect for religion, which was basically banned at the time. Some people, however, still went
barbed wire fence you are in Ikh Tenger; to expedition. This is a perfect place to test ride in secret.
get out, just continue west along the fence a Mongolian horse before a longer trip. Rides Sometime in the late 1970s the communists decided to do away with the ‘feudal’ site once
and over the next ridge. are great value at US$35 to US$50 per day and for all. Workers tried dynamite to blow it up, and a tractor to haul it away, both to no avail.
and include pick-up, drop-off, guides, horses, The next day workers awoke to find their tractor burnt and destroyed. Soon after the incident
Zaisan Route food and even entry fees to the national park. the official who ordered Eej Khad’s destruction died and his family members became ill. It is said
It is more of an uphill battle to Tsetseegün if As this camp is something of a hang-out for that all the other members of the team suffered a string of bad luck. Most Mongolians can recite
you start from the Zaisan Memorial. From the dedicated horse riders, you may be able to find a similar tale of provocation and retribution at the holy rock.
memorial, head up the road past the ger camp partners for a trip.
 110 T Ö V • • Te re l j A re a lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T Ö V • • Te re l j A re a 111

the capital city with its coal. Coal is now pri- the alpine scenery magnificent, and there are can hike directly over the mountains, or take and the side valleys of Tuul Gol. To travel
marily supplied by Baganuur, as Nalaikh’s great opportunities for hiking, rock climbing, the easier but longer route along the Baruun long distances, you will need to have expe-
mine closed down 15 years ago. However, swimming (in icy cold water), rafting, horse Bayan Gol to get there. You can reach it in a rience, or a guide, and bring most of your
small-scale private excavations (legal and il- riding and, for hard-core extreme-sports fa- day on horseback, while hikers should allow own gear. Horses can be hired through any
legal, and sometimes with child labour) con- natics, skiing in the depths of winter. two days each way for the journey. of the ger camps, but you’ll pay high tourist
tinue in the mines. There’s little reason to Terelj was first developed for tourism in prices (around US$35 to US$40 a day). A
visit except to see a Kazakh community; in the 1964 and 30 years later it became part of Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area mob of horse boys hang around Turtle Rock
1950s many Kazakhs from Bayan-Ölgii were Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. A few of the tourist To the northeast, Gorkhi-Terelj National Park offering horse riding at US$5 per hour, or
‘persuaded’ to work in Nalaikh’s mine. developments here are hard on the eyes and joins the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area somewhere between US$12 and US$20 for
To find Nalaikh’s mosque, face the bright- ears; some ger camps have concrete car parks, (Khentii Nuruu; Map pp102–3), comprising the day. Alternatively, approach one of the
blue town hall, turn 180° and walk about ugly electricity poles, TV antennae and discos more than 1.2 million hectares of the Töv, Mongolian families who live around the park
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
25 minutes over a small hill. It’s very basic at night, and locals overcharge for goods and Selenge and Khentii aimags. The Khan Khentii and hire one of their horses, though they may
and has a blue tin roof. Hourly buses (T500) services. But you can easily get away from all park is almost completely uninhabited by not be much cheaper.
depart from Teeveriin Tovchoo, the first at this if you want. humans, but it is home to endangered species
7.30am and the last at 7pm. In late summer, the mosquitoes at Terelj of moose, brown bear and weasel to name but RAFTING
can be appalling – at times, the worst in the a few, and to more than 250 species of birds. Tuul Gol, which starts in the park and flows
Around Nalaikh country – so make sure you have insect repel- to Ulaanbaatar and beyond, is one of the best
Around 19km southeast of Nalaikh is an lent with you. Activities places in the country for rafting. The best sec-
8th-century Turkic stele of Tonyukok (GPS: N47° There is a T3000 entry fee to the park for HIKING tion of the river starts a few kilometres north
41.661’, E107° 28.586’). The stele is covered in runic each person, which you’ll have to pay at the If you have good maps, a compass and of Terelj village, and wraps around the park
script and there are balbals (stone figures be- park entrance, 6km from the main road. some experience (or a proper guide), hik- until it reaches Gachuurt, near Ulaanbaatar.
lieved to be Turkic grave markers) and grave Terelj village (Map p112; GPS: N47° 59.193’, E107° ing in the Terelj area is superb in summer, Nomadic Journeys (p81) runs rafting trips
slabs nearby. 27.834’) is about 27km from the park entrance, but be careful of the very fragile environ- here for around US$45 per day (minimum
To get to the stele you’ll need to have your at the end of a paved road. It’s in a nice lo- ment, and be prepared for mosquitoes and four people). You can also get a raft from the
own transport. From Nalaikh, take the main cation near the river but there’s not much unpredictable weather. Seven Summits (p93).
highway towards Baganuur and travel for 16km here apart from a few shops, a café and a For more sedate walks in the Terelj ger camp
until you see a sign that says ‘Tonyukok’. Turn ger camp. area, follow the main road and pick a side valley SKIING
right onto this track and travel another 10km to stroll along at your leisure. From the main Some of the ger camps that stay open in winter
to reach the stele. Just past the site, a huge Günjiin Süm Гүнжийн Сүм road, look out for two interesting rock for- cater to cross-country skiers – the season lasts
hanger contains a few relics found around the Surrounded by magnificent forests and not far mations: Turtle Rock (Melkhi Khad; Map p112; GPS: N47° from November to February. There are no set
site; you could ask the local watchman to let from a lovely river, the Baruun Bayan Gol, the 54.509’, E107° 25.428’), in a side valley to the south trails, so just take your own gear and ask the
you inside, though there is little to see. Buddhist temple of Günjiin Süm (Map p112; elevation of Terelj, which really looks like one at a certain locals for some good, safe areas to try.
Halfway between Nalaikh and Erdene, 1713m; GPS: N48° 11.010’, E107° 33.377’) was built in angle; and the less dramatic Old Man Reading a
you’ll spot the rear end of an enormous metal 1740 by Efu Dondovdorj to commemorate the Book (Map p112), which can be spotted on the left GOLF
horse topped with a statue of Chinggis Khaan death of his Manchurian wife, Amarlangui. side of the road when travelling south from The Chinggis Khaan Country Club (Map p112; x9911
(it looks slightly more dramatic if approached Once part of a huge monastery containing Terelj village. Head north 3km from Turtle 0707) is just off the road in Gorkhi valley.
from the other direction). The privately built about 70 sq metres of blue walls, five other Rock to reach the Aryapala Initiation & Meditation Green fee is T60,000, a caddy is T12,000 and
Chinggis Khaan monument (Map p112; x11-321 763, temples and a tower, Günjiin Süm is one of Centre (Map p112; GPS: N47° 56.121’, E107° 25.643’; admission club rental is T24,000. A second course is at
9911 2846; www.genco-tour.mn; GPS: N47° 48.494’, E107° very few Manchurian-influenced temples in T2000) set on a spectacular rocky hillside. the UB2 hotel.
31.860’; admission T1000) stands 40m high and has Mongolia to survive over the centuries. Only Some suggested easier hikes are to Günjiin
a lift (elevator) rising up its tail, from where the main temple, and some of the walls of the Süm or along the Terelj or Tuul Gols towards Tours
there are steps to the horse’s head. The com- monastery, remain. Khan Khentii. This is a great area for wildflow- Most foreign and local tour companies in-
plex includes a museum, ger camp and an Unlike most other monasteries in Mongolia, ers, particularly rhododendron and edelweiss. clude a night or two in a tourist ger at Terelj
elaborate replica of a 13th century Mongol Günjiin Süm was not destroyed during the Places of interest on more difficult, longer in their tours. Several local agencies based in
war camp, complete with towers and cata- Stalinist purges, but simply fell into ruin from treks in Khan Khentii: Ulaanbaatar, such as Nomadic Journeys and
pults. It also has workshops displaying the neglect, vandalism and theft. Altan-Ölgii Uul (2656m) The source of the Akhain Gol. Nomads (p80), run some of the more interest-
production of traditional clothing, jewellery, The temple is not a must – there are many Khagiin Khar Nuur A 20m-deep glacial lake, about ing trips around Terelj.
bows, arrows and battle gear. Rodeos and better and more accessible temples and 80km up Tuul Gol from the ger camps at Terelj.
mini-naadams (games) are sometimes avail- monasteries in Ulaanbaatar and Töv – but Yestii Hot Water Springs These springs reach up to Sleeping
able; check the website. more of an excuse for a great overnight trek, 35°C, and are fed by the Yuroo and Yestii Gols. Yestii is CAMPING
on horse or foot, or as part of a longer trip in about 18km north of Khagiin Khar Nuur. Unless you hike out into the hills it’s best to
TERELJ AREA ТЭРЭЛЖ the national park. get permission to camp, either from the near-
Terelj sum (district), about 55km northeast of Günjiin is about 30km (as the crow flies) HORSE RIDING est ger or, for a fee, a ger camp. Pitch your tent
Ulaanbaatar, is a playground for urban-weary north of the main area where most of the ger Travelling on a horse is the perfect way to away from the main road, don’t use wood fires
Ulaanbaatarites. At 1600m, the area is cool and camps are situated in Terelj. With a guide you see a lot of the park, including Günjiin Süm and take all of your rubbish out.
 112 T Ö V • • Te re l j A re a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T Ö V • • Te re l j A re a 113

TERELJ AREA 0
0
30 km
20 miles
MOUNTAIN BIKING AROUND TERELJ

ol
ain G
Günjiin Khan Khentii

Gol
Süm Strictly Protected Area
(1713m) (30km) Gachuurt to Terelj Gol (North)
Akh

yan
Jalman Uul
This challenging route combines mountain, forest and river scenery. To reach the trailhead from

Ba
(2051m)

un
UB, go to Gachuurt and turn left when you get to the bridge. Follow the valley for about 19km

ru
Ba
Gachuurt to the end of the road where there is an obvious car park (you could get a taxi all the way).

hree Gol
Te
to Terelj
lj Ride up the valley that leads in a northwesterly direction. There is a ranger ger in the valley that
re

Ranger Gorkhi-
Station Terelj Jalman marks the boundary of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. Here you need to pay park fees. The steady

urk
Go

National Park Meadows

l

climb up to the peak is about 2km, from where you descend into a valley that winds for 7km to
Kh Terelj Gol. Return the way you’ve come and then ride the 19km back to Gachuurt; it’s downhill
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
all the way. This route takes around five hours.
Terelj to Gachuurt

Ecotourism
Terelj to Gachuurt (Central)
Ger Camp This rugged route goes from Terelj to Gachuurt, taking in two passes along the way. Get a ride
ol

Terelj
rt G

all the way to the town of Terelj and then start riding on the road that heads west; it’s about
huu

UB2
Gac

2km to the next small settlement of gers. The trail continues west and starts heading into the
Aryapala Initiation
To Ulaanbaatar & Meditation Centre wilderness, up a valley with a forest to your left. The ridge tops out at 1859m and descends to
(18 km) Old Man
Gachuurt Melkhi
Reading
A Book
another valley. The trail climbs again, slightly to the right, to another 1859m ridge, from where
Fly Khad Miraj
Mongolia you begin a long descent towards Gachuurt. At the end of the valley (it’s about 15km) you’ll
Turtle Rock
Tuul River (Melkhi Khad) reach Tuul Gol, which you follow back to Gachuurt town. All up it’s a 30km ride and should
Bayanzürkh Lodge Chinggis Khaan
Uul Turtle Rock Country Club Buveit take around five hours.
(2004m) Loop
Terelj Gate
Ba

Wind Horse
T uu

Loop
Turtle Rock Loop
ya

Ger Camp Ayanchin

nz

lG

(2007)
ür

ol Chinggis
This is a convenient route as it begins and ends at Turtle Rock in the Gorkhi valley. From Turtle
kh

Park
Go
l

Monument
N

Entrance Tuul
ur

Rock ride west down the slope until the road goes right into a ger camp (they built the camp
uu

over the trail). Go around the camp (or through it) and then it’s a 30-minute climb to the top of
To Nalaikh Erdene
(2 km) the hill. From the top you get some great views of the rock formations in the next valley. The
trail continues south past several ger camps and eventually leads back to the main road and
GER CAMPS & HOTELS US$16/6) For an offbeat experience, you could back to Turtle Rock. This loop is 15km.
During the peak season of July and August wade across Terelj Gol and hike to a pleasant ger It’s possible to do a longer loop: before turning left out of the valley (towards the main road),
(and also at the more popular camps), it’s not camp run by a Dutchman named Bert. You’ll just veer right up a slope, and then down a long narrow valley (one valley west of the main road),
a bad idea to book ahead. Outside the normal need to get directions from the Terelj-Juulchin eventually reaching Tuul Gol. At the end of the valley, turn left to return to Turtle Rock, or right
tourist season (July to September), it’s also a hotel (it’s a 30-minute horse ride from here) or to leave the park. From Turtle Rock to Tuul Gol its 14km. The full loop takes about four hours.
good idea to ring ahead to make sure the camp inquire about the place at Chez Bernard (p90)
is open and serves food. A few places are open in UB. Bert sells homemade Dutch cheese and Terelj Gate Loop
in winter, mostly for expats who want to ski. organises trips up to Günjiin Süm. This is a nice route for those who don’t have their own car. Get a lift to the park entrance and
If you are the only guests at a camp you may UB2 (x9977 4125; ger bed T25,500, s/d T30,000/51,000, start cycling east, up the valley that contains the Tuul Gol. After 30 to 40 minutes the trail turns
have to find staff to open up the restaurant, half-lux T35,000/52,500, lux T52,000/75,000) This large left, leaving the valley and heading towards a ridge. It’s a one-hour climb up to the top and
showers etc. The ger camps offer almost iden- hotel complex and restaurant marks the end then a gentle ride into Gorkhi valley and the ger camps. From here you head back to the park
tical facilities and prices (about US$30 with of the road, next to the village of Terelj. It also entrance to complete the three hour loop.
three Western meals, or US$15 without). has a par-three golf course (green fees US$29,
Apart from the ger camps listed here, many clubs US$15 and caddie US$10). extra. Marked rock-climbing routes are Jalman Meadows (4-day package per person US$195)
individual families rent out a spare ger and/or Miraj (x325 188, 9919 3449; with meals US$30) nearby and the camp might be able to sup- Nomadic Journeys runs this remote and low-
hire horses, normally at cheaper rates than Located 14km along the main road from the ply climbing gear. It’s run by Tsolmon Travel impact ger camp in the upper Tuul valley,
the ger camps. You’ll have to ask around as park entrance, Miraj is in a prime area for hik- agency (p81). which makes a nice base if you are headed to
none advertises. ing. Horses cost US$5 per hour or US$10 per Khagiin Khar Nuur, which is an eight-hour
Ayanchin (x319 211, 9911 2611; ger bed US$50,
Melkhi Khad (x450 737, 9926 9670; 4-bed ger day, and hot showers are available. There are horse ride away. The camp has a library of
r US$75) This American-built camp has a
T20,000) This well-maintained camp has a cosy a couple of other camps up this valley. books on Mongolia and a number of great
Western-style lodge and modern (but ugly)
lodge. It’s about 1km south of the Aryapala Buveit (x322 870, 9911 4913; ger bed US$35) About shower and toilet block. At meal times (meals activities, including mountain biking, yak
Meditation Centre. Don’t confuse this with 13km along the main road from the park carting, river boating and even portable
US$5 to US$11), enjoy a steak, pasta, sand-
Domogt Melkhi Khad, the busy camp right entrance, Buveit is in a beautiful secluded saunas! You’ll need to book well in advance
wich or burger on the sunny deck. It’s about
next to Turtle Rock. valley 3km east of the main road. It also for these trips. The price includes transfers
10km from the main entrance, marked with
Ecotourism Ger Camp (x9973 4710; bergroo@hot has beds in a cabin for US$2 more than the a big billboard. to and from Ulaanbaatar.
mail.com; GPS: N47° 58.702’, E107° 29.837’; with/without meals gers, and you can get three meals for US$18
 114 T Ö V • • G a c h u u r t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com T Ö V • • C h i n g e l t e i U u l 115

Getting There & Away popular with wealthy Mongolians who build
BICYCLE gated villas on the hills surrounding the town. WIND HORSE: ECOFRIENDLY GER CAMP
A mountain bike would be an excellent way of Despite the increased development, it remains Many ger camps claim to be ecofriendly, but by constructing septic tanks near rivers and build-
getting around some of the Terelj area if you an idyllic setting and a popular half-day trip ing permanent structures in the virgin landscape they are leaving an irremovable scar on the
could stand the 70km of uphill riding to get from Ulaanbaatar. land. As you travel, look out for less-developed camps that utilise solar and wind power and
there and cope with the traffic in Ulaanbaatar other ecofriendly devices.
along the way. The Seven Summits (p93) and Activities In the Gachuurt–Terelj area, a leader in sustainable practices is the Wind Horse Ger Camp,
Karakorum Expeditions (p81) in Ulaanbaatar Adrenaline junkies may want to spend an about 12km southeast of Gachuurt (Map p112; the position on the map is a guide only – the
both rent bikes. afternoon at the base camp of Fly Mongolia owner may move the camp at any time if he finds a better location). In true bush-camp tradition,
(Map p107; x9919 7933), a burgeoning adven- Wind Horse has built no permanent structures; it has a dining ger, a shower ger (heated with
BUS ture centre run by local aviation enthusiast driftwood from the river) and a bathroom tent with chemical toilets. Gers are scattered in the
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
The road from Ulaanbaatar to Terelj, which Alex Amiya. Tandem paragliding (US$35) glen, giving each a sense of privacy. There are no wires, pipes or poured concrete whatsoever.
goes through part of the national park, is and ultralight aircraft tours (US$100) are two Solar panels provide a limited energy source.
in pretty good nick. A bus departs at 4pm popular activities. With more time you can Despite the rustic setting, you can expect gourmet cuisine and quality wine. Horses with western
from Durvun Zam (Map pp70–1; corner of take a four-day paragliding lesson (US$180). saddles are available to ride and the camp can organise pack trips in the direction of Terelj.
Peace Ave and Öndör Geegen Zanabazaryn Alex can teach in English, French, Russian or A bed and three meals starts from US$60 per night (and can run up to US$400 depending
Gudamj) and goes to the centre of the park, Mongolian. Note that spring is a dangerous on what sort of wine and food is ordered). Reservations are required at the camp as space is
a few kilometres past the turn-off to Turtle time to paraglide in Mongolia because of the limited. Contact Hamid Sardar at [email protected].
Rock. The same bus comes back directly to unpredictable winds. September is best for be-
UB. The cost is T1500 each way. If this doesn’t ginners. Fly Mongolia also has 4WD go-carts
pan out you’ll have to hitch. (per hour US$15). The camp is off the main a few kilometres short of Gachuurt. Luxurious top, and views from the summit (2004m) are
Gachuurt road, 1km before Hotel Mongolia rooms have private bath and shower and the great. You can reach the base of the moun-
HITCHING (look for the wooden sign by the road). Be price includes breakfast. The hotel includes tains by taking the bus from Ulaanbaatar to
Hitching out of Ulaanbaatar can be difficult warned that the place is pretty disorganised a business centre, souvenir shops and a field Nalaikh and getting off before the women’s
because vehicles going to Terelj could leave (even by Mongolian standards) and Alex may behind the walls where mini-naadams are held prison (‘emegtei shorong’ in Mongolian; let
from anywhere. The cheapest way to hitch not be available when you get there. according to tour-group bookings. Even if you the bus driver know to let you off here). Of
to Terelj is to take a minivan for Baganuur or Frenchman Côme Doerflinger runs adven- don’t stay here, it’s worth visiting for the kitsch the four holy mountains, this is the best for
Nalaikh and get off at the turn-off to Terelj, ture trips through his outfit Xanadu (x9987 ambience and excellent Asian-style restaurant mountain biking.
where you are far more likely to get a lift. 2912; www.mongolienomade.mn in French), based in (meals T2500 to T3500), which serves a few
Hitching back to Ulaanbaatar from along Gachuurt. He mainly runs horse trips, and has delicacies such as horse stomach. KHANDGAIT ХАНДГАЙТ
the main road through Terelj is not diffi- French, Russian and English saddles. Côme About 40km north of Ulaanbaatar, Khandgait
cult, as almost every vehicle is returning to also has kayaks and canoes that you can use Getting There & Away (Map pp102-3; GPS: N48° 07.066’, E106° 54.296’) is another
the capital. to float down Tuul Gol, and mountain bikes Buses pick up passengers every hour or so lovely area of cow pastures, pine forests and
which are great for excursions up Gachuurt’s from the east end of Peace Ave in Ulaanbaatar, wildflowers, surrounding the small village of
TAXI side valleys towards Terelj. near the Jukov statue, a couple of kilometres the same name. Like Terelj, there are plenty of
A taxi from Ulaanbaatar is easy to organise; east of the city centre, bound for Gachuurt opportunities for hiking, rock climbing, and, in
jeeps aren’t necessary because the road is paved Sleeping & Eating (T500, 25 minutes). You can also easily get a winter, ice-skating and cross-country skiing (it’s
all the way. You should only pay the standard Gachuurt offers reasonable camping oppor- taxi from UB (T6000). possible to rent skis and sleds here in winter).
rate per kilometre, which works out at about tunities. About 2km before the town centre, If you’re lucky, you might see some ice motor-
US$25 one way, but the driver may understand- near Tuul Gol, there are spots to pitch your CHINGELTEI UUL cycling at this time too. This is great countryside
ably want more because his taxi may be empty tent. Just try to avoid the clusters of ger camps. ЧИНГЭЛТЭЙ УУЛ for camping. Just pick any site, preferably near a
for part of the return journey. You can also For basic meals you could try the Take Off Café To the north of Ulaanbaatar, Chingeltei Uul river, and enjoy, but be careful about wood fires
arrange with your taxi to pick you up later. (x9919 7933; meals T2000-3500; h10am-6pm) at the (Map p107; 1949m) has some pretty forests and be sure to take your rubbish out.
When there’s enough demand shared taxis Fly Mongolia base camp (Map p107). near the top. You can reach the base of the Buses (T600) go here from Container
to Terelj sometimes leave from Naran Tuul Tuul River Lodge (Map p107; x9909 9365; www mountain by bus No 3, 16 or, best of all, 18 (Bömbögör) Market in Ulaanbaatar at 7am,
market jeep station in Ulaanbaatar (off Map .tuulriverside.com; per person US$60-100) This upmarket from Sambugiin Gudamj, near Liberty Sq, in 11am, 1pm and 5pm. A taxi (jeeps aren’t
p64). This is more likely on summer Sundays option has en-suite gers that include bath and Ulaanbaatar (T200). By taxi (T1500), you can necessary) from UB is easiest, but, naturally,
when locals make a day trip to the area. shower. Prices do not include meals but it go all the way up to a gate from where it’s a more expensive at around US$25 return, plus
does have a restaurant. It’s about 10km past 2km walk to the summit. waiting time.
GACHUURT ГАЧУУРТ Gachuurt on the way to Terelj.
Around 20km east of Ulaanbaatar, the town Hotel Mongolia (Map p107; x315 513; www.hotel BAYANZÜRKH UUL KHUSTAIN NATIONAL PARK
of Gachuurt offers the chance to quickly trade -mongolia.com; ger s/d US$60/80, s/d US$80/120, ste US$180- БАЯНЗYРХ УУЛ ХУСТАЙН НУРУУ
city traffic and bustle for riverside walks, horse 250) This ger camp would impress even Kublai This peak is in the Bayanzürkh Nuruu (Rich Also known as Khustain Nuruu (Birch
riding, camping, fishing and rafting. The town Khaan. Hotel Mongolia is the unmissable Heart Mountains; Map p112), to the east Mountain Range), this park was established
is a rapidly growing suburb of the capital, walled palace resembling ancient Karakorum, of Ulaanbaatar. There’s a little forest at the in 1993 and is about 100km southwest of
 116 T Ö V • • K h u s t a i n N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • A r v a i k h e e r 117

and stick only to existing tracks. Wildlife Kharkhorin. This is Mongolia’s oldest monas-
TAKHI – THE REINTRODUCTION OF A SPECIES watching is best at dusk and at dawn. The tery and it has become a regular stop on most
The year was 1969 and a herder in western Mongolia spotted a rare takhi (wild horse) in the takhi could be in any number of places, and tour circuits. But while travellers flock to this
distance. It was an extraordinary find as so few takhi were left in the wild. Alas, it was also the park guides can direct your driver to the site and then rush off to the points west, many
final sighting; with no new reports thereafter, scientists had to declare the species extinct in best spots. miss some of the best parts of Övörkhangai,
the wild – the result of poaching, overgrazing by livestock and human encroachment on their The park runs a three-week volunteer pro- including the Naiman Nuur lake district and
breeding grounds. gram where you can help with research. See the spectacular Tövkhön Khiid. The southern
All was not lost for the takhi, however, as a dozen individual horses were known to exist in www.ecovolunteer.org for details. part of the aimag, past Arvaikheer, is uninter-
zoos outside Mongolia – their ancestors had been captured by game hunters in the early 20th A community-based tourism project at esting desert steppe.
century. A small group of conservationists dedicated themselves to breeding the animals with Khustain allows visitors to stay with nomad If travelling by rented jeep, it is easy to
the hope that one day they could be reintroduced to Mongolia. families, ride horses, learn felt-making and combine a visit to these sights with some other
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
The conservationists did not fare so well with Mongolia’s suspicious communist government, experience daily life in the countryside. See places that are clustered near the borders of
but when democracy arrived in the early 1990s they were welcomed with open arms. By that www.cbtn.mn for details. Arkhangai, Bulgan and Töv aimags, includ-
time the worldwide population was around 1500, scattered around zoos in Australia, Germany, ing Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve, the
Switzerland and the Netherlands. Sleeping sand dunes of Mongol Els and Naiman Nuur.
Between 1992 and 2004 takhi were reintroduced into Mongolia at Khustain National Park, Independent camping is not allowed inside The paved road, which reaches Kharkhorin
Takhiin Tal in Gov-Altai, and Khomiin Tal in Zavkhan. Today there are more than 200 takhi in the park so you have to camp outside the park and the aimag capital of Arvaikheer, is also a
Khustain, 80 in Takhiin Tal and 12 in Khomiin Tal. Given the political and logistical challenges boundary. The best place to go is the south definite attraction.
to the project, their reintroduction is nothing short of miraculous, making it one of the best side of the park by Tuul Gol.
conservation stories of our times. There is a small ger camp (without meals per person ARVAIKHEER АРВАЙХЭЭР
The takhi, also known as Przewalski’s horse (named after the Polish explorer who first ‘discovered’ US$15, tent US$5) at the entrance to the park (the x01322 / pop 23,400 / elev 1913m
the horse in 1878), are now descended from the bloodline of three stallions, so computerised payment for accommodation includes the A nondescript but friendly aimag capital,
records have been introduced to avoid inbreeding. They are the last remaining wild horse world-
park entrance). Rooms are available in the Arvaikheer is of little interest except as a
wide, the forerunner of the domestic horse, as depicted in cave paintings in France. They are not place to eat and rest, refuel the jeep or ar-
main building for US$20 per person. There
simply horses that have become feral, or wild, as found in the USA or Australia, but a genetically range onward public transport. If you find
are also cabins at Moilt camp (per person US$15).
different species, boasting two extra chromosomes in their DNA make-up. yourself between rides, the museum is worth
Meals are available at the camp (breakfast
Within the parks, the laws of nature are allowed to run their course; an average of five foals a look.
US$3, lunch US$8, dinner US$6)
are killed by wolves every year in Khustain. The park gets locals onside by hiring herders as There is no need to go to Arvaikheer if
rangers, offering cheap loans to others and offering employment at a cheese-making factory
To book accommodation in the park con-
tact Hustai National Park Trust (x011-245 087, 245 you only want to visit Kharkhorin and north-
on the outskirts of the park. ern Övörkhangai, as a paved road runs to
For more info check out www.treemail.nl/takh. 881; www.hustai.mn; Hustai Bldg, 2nd khoroo, Bayangol
District) in Ulaanbaatar. It is about 2km west of Kharkhorin from Ulaanbaatar. The police
the State Department Store, off Peace Ave. station is southeast of the town square.
Ulaanbaatar. The 50,620-hectare reserve on the park and the takhi, a small souvenir
protects Mongolia’s wild horse, the takhi, shop and videos that include a documentary Getting There & Away Information
and the reserve’s steppe and forest-steppe on Mongolian horses featuring Julia Roberts. To get to the park travel 100km west from Bathhouse (shower/sauna T1100/4000; h9am-10pm
environment. In addition to the takhi, there Ten kilometres south into the park’s core area Ulaanbaatar, along the road to Kharkhorin, Tue-Sun)
are populations of maral (Asiatic red deer), is the former park headquarters. Another where there is a signpost pointing you the Internet café (x22193; per hr T600; h8.30am-
steppe gazelle, deer, boar, manul (small wild 13km or so west is Moilt camp. 13km south to the park entrance. A Russian 12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) In the Telecom office.
cat), wolf and lynx. A visit to the park has minivan departs on Friday from Khustain Khan Bank (x22040; h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm)
become a popular overnight excursion from Sights & Activities Nuruu at 4pm and returns from UB to the Telecom office (x24098; h24hr) The post office is
Ulaanbaatar in recent years. In an effort to make the park self-financing, also here.
park at 7.30pm (from Minii Zakh, near UB
Entry to the park is a one-off fee of US$5 horse riding, hiking and jeep excursions are Palace). On Sunday the van leaves the park at
(free for locals). It’s worth spending at least offered. Several hiking routes have been estab- 3pm and returns from Ulaanbaatar at 5.30pm.
Sights
one night in the park, as you are most likely to lished, including a good hike that takes you GANDAN MUNTSAGLAN KHIID
The cost is US$10 one way and it’s recom-
see takhi and other wildlife at dusk or dawn. from the visitors centre to Moilt camp (22km) ГАНДАН МУНТСАГЛАН ХИЙД
mended to book ahead of time.
The park is run by the Hustai National in about five hours. This comparatively large monastery, about
Park Trust, which is supported by the Dutch A fun horseback trek takes you to Turkic 900m north of the town square, contains a
government and the Mongolian Association
for the Conservation of Nature and the
stone monuments (Map pp102-3; GPS: N47° 33.201’,
E105° 50.991’) southwest of the park and then on
ÖVÖRKHANGAI fine collection of thangka (scroll paintings),
including one depicting the original monas-
Environment (Macne). to Tuul Gol. Horse rental is US$12 per day.
Contact the park for details.
ӨВӨРХАНГАЙ tery, which was destroyed in 1937. The cur-
rent monastery was opened in 1991, and now
Orientation & Information With your own jeep you can drive to pop 110,200 / area 63,000 sq km has about 60 monks in residence. Visitors are
The information centre at the entrance to Moilt camp. Park regulations require you Övörkhangai contains one of Mongolia’s top welcome. To the left of the temple is a small
Khustain National Park has a ger with displays to take a park guide (free within the park) attractions, the Erdene Zuu monastery in shop selling religious items.
 ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
118 Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • A r v a i k h e e r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • N a i m a n N u u r 119

0 800 m the usual rough road to the next aimag capi- the two-day trip to the lakes. It’s also possible
ARVAIKHEER 0 0.5 miles
tal of Bayankhongor. With a jeep, an expe- to get to the lakes from the Arvaikheer side by

ὈὈὈὈὈ
To Gandan Muntsaglan
A Khiid (500m); B C D rienced driver and lots of time you could car, although only an experienced local driver
Naiman Nuur (90km)
INFORMATION Government House..................6 B1
venture south to Dalanzadgad, 377km away in could make it. Companies such as Nomads
Drama
Theatre Bathhouse................................1 A1 Zanabazar Memorial Museum..7 B2 Ömnögov aimag, either via Saikhan-Ovoo or and Nomadic Expeditions (p81) run tours
Cinema 6 Internet Café.........................(see 4)
1
15 Town Khan Bank................................2 B1 SLEEPING
(more adventurously) via Guchin Us, Khovd here, including horse-riding trips.
11 12
Square Police........................................3 B1 Bayan Bulag Hotel....................8 B1 and Khongoryn Els.
14
1
Post Office.............................(see 4)
Telecom Office.........................4 B1
Kharaa Hotel............................9 B2
Mönkh Sundur Hotel..............10 B2 KHUJIRT ХУЖИРТ
17
4
3 AIR After a lifetime on the steppes, the last thing
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING
8 2
Aimag Museum.......................5 B2 Container Market...................11 A1 MIAT flies between Ulaanbaatar and any nomad needs is a holiday in the great
9
13 Restaurant.............................(see 8) Arvaikheer twice weekly for US$66/117 one outdoors. Fortunately, there is Khujirt, where
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
Sondor Café...........................12 A1
5
way/return, en route to/from Altai. The air- local Mongolians can come and put on a pair
7
10 DRINKING
Spider Bar...............................13 B2
port is less than 1km south of town. of slippers and a bathrobe, enter a mud bath,
To Ulaanbaatar
Park (430km) dip into metal tubs filled with spring water
Stadium TRANSPORT
2
Minivan to Kharkhorin and
HITCHING and get some vitamin injections. This may
Fire Station Khujirt................................14 A1 The Ulaanbaatar–Arvaikheer road is one of not sound so inviting to foreign tourists but
Minivans to Ulaanbaatar........15 A1
Petrol Station.........................16 C2
the busiest in the country – at least one vehicle the spa resort (h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) does make for
To Bayankhongor (200km); 16
Vans to Bayankhongor...........17 A1 goes in both directions every minute. Hitching an interesting stop if you are travelling though
Orkhon Hotel (400m) Airport a ride on a truck or in a private car should be the Khujirt valley.
comparatively easy. Going further west along The 54km road between Kharkhorin and
MUSEUMS Kharaa Hotel (x 23655; d US$15, half-lux/lux the main road to Bayankhongor won’t be as Khujirt is one of the best places in the country
Since Övörkhangai lies partly in the forested US$20/25) This place has standard three-bed easy, but it is possible (although it’s a pretty to see falcons and hawks, particularly the sar
Khangai region and the Gobi Desert, the rooms with a shared bathroom. If the hotel uninteresting highway – the better route is (moon) hawk. If you are ever likely to get a
Aimag Museum (x22075; admission T1500, photos T3500; isn’t busy, solo travellers should be able to pay through Arkhangai). In Arvaikheer, trucks photo of one of these birds, this is the place.
h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) boasts a better- for just one bed; at other times you’ll have to hang around the market, so try there or at the
than-average selection of stuffed mountain pay for at least two beds for privacy. Half-lux petrol station on the main road. Sleeping & Eating
and desert animals. There are also some fos- and lux rooms include bathroom and shower. Next to the spa resort, Khujirt Tur (x9971 5262;
sils and arrows, local artwork and leftovers Hot water comes on for a couple of hours in JEEPS per person T10,000) is the best choice in the area.
from Karakorum. the morning and evening – check the times If you want to hire a jeep to see the sights The shower block has piping hot-water show-
Just around the corner is the Zanabazar with reception. The place is clean and bright around northern Övörkhangai, it’s better to ers from the mineral springs. The Khujirt Tur
Memorial Museum (admission T1500, photos T3500; but overpriced so try for a discount. catch a bus from Ulaanbaatar to Kharkhorin ger camp serves meals for T4000. A cheaper
h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri), which has a and hire a jeep there, rather than go to guanz is in back of the resort.
collection of religious artwork connected to Eating & Drinking Arvaikheer. Jeep hire is around T40,000, not
the master sculptor (p40). Ask at the Aimag There are quite a few basic restaurants around including petrol. Getting There & Away
Museum for the key. town, including a good one in the Bayan Bulag Buses (T8500) run every Monday, Wednesday
Hotel. There are also guanz (canteens or cheap MINIVANS and Friday from UB’s Dragon (Luu) Avto
Sleeping restaurants) and tsainii gazar (tea houses) Minivans and smaller microbuses run along Vaksal bus stand. They return to Ulaanbaatar
Like most aimag capitals, camping is a bet- near the container market. The bustling daily the paved road between Arvaikheer and the following day, passing within 5km of
ter option than the dreary hotels, but in market also has yogurt, airag (fermented mare Ulaanbaatar daily (T13,000, seven hours). Kharkhorin. Faster minivans also do the run
Arvaikheer you’ll have to walk a kilometre or milk) after June and sheepskins, as well as the Look for them on the north side of the mar- daily for T10,000.
so to find a quiet place to pitch your tent. It’s normal range of packaged foods. ket. At least one car a day will travel north to With the number of Mongolians using the
best to head out to the area north of the mon- Near the market is a popular guanz mas- Khujirt (T6000, two hours); as usual, when Ulaanbaatar–Kharkhorin road to get to Khujirt
astery or drive 5km southeast to Ongiin Gol. querading as a café, Sondor Café (dishes T800-1000; the driver says departure time is ‘now’ that in summer, it shouldn’t be hard to hitch a ride
Bayan Bulag Hotel (x23374; dm T3500, r with/with- h8am-8pm). A gang of friendly, young locals means around 4pm. These vehicles leave from between Kharkhorin and Khujirt.
out shower 6000/8000, half-lux/lux T12,000/15,000) This run the popular Spider Bar (x9939 5338; h10am- the west side of the market.
place has five clean, carpeted rooms. The half- midnight), a great place for a few drinks after SHANKH KHIID ШАНХ ХИЙД
lux and lux rooms have clean bathrooms with a long day on the road. In the late night it NAIMAN NUUR НАЙМАН НУУР Shankh Khiid, once known as the West
24-hour hot water. The attached restaurant is becomes a lively disco bar. The area of Naiman Nuur (Eight Lakes), Monastery, and Erdene Zuu are the only
one of the best places in town to eat. which was created by volcanic eruptions cen- monasteries in the region to have survived
Mönkh Sundur Hotel (x9932 9677; r T8000) All Getting There & Away turies ago, is now part of the 11,500-hectare the 1937 purge. Shankh was founded by the
the rooms are the same here, each with TV, You can travel quickly along the 430km paved Khuisiin Naiman Nuur Nature Reserve. The lakes great Zanabazar in 1648 and is said to have
toilet and washbasin. It has a restaurant road between Ulaanbaatar and Arvaikheer. (GPS: N46° 31.232’, E101° 50.705’) are about 35km once housed Chinggis Khaan’s black military
with good food, beer and drinks, as well as (There are plenty of guanz along the way.) The southwest of Orkhon Khürkhree (waterfall), banner. At one time the monastery was home
a billiards room. It’s in a compound behind paved road finishes just west of Arvaikheer; but the roads are often virtually impassable. to more than 1500 monks. As elsewhere, the
the museum. from there it is about another 200km along Locals around the waterfall can rent horses for monastery was closed in 1937, temples were
 120 Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • K h a r k h o r i n ( K a r a k o r u m ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • K h a r k h o r i n ( K a r a k o r u m ) 121

burnt and many monks were shipped off to Telecom office (x2444; h24hr) The post office is 0 1 km
Siberia. Some of those that survived helped to
KHARKHORIN 0 0.5 miles
also here.
reopen the place the early 1990s. Xac Bank (x2648; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
The monastery (GPS: N47° 03.079’, E102° 57.236’; Changes money and gives cash advances on MasterCard. To Tsetserleg
(116km) EATING
admission T1000, photos T1000) is exactly halfway Crown Café............................15 B2
along the main road between Kharkhorin Sights SHOPPING Ancient
and Khujirt, in the village of Shankh. If you ERDENE ZUU KHIID ЭРДЭНЭ ЗУУ ХИЙД Shops.....................................16 B2 7 Karakorum

have your own transport, it’s a fine place to Founded in 1586 by Altai Khaan, Erdene Zuu TRANSPORT
12
stop between both towns. (Hundred Treasures) was the first Buddhist Jeep Stand..............................17 B2
Petrol Station.........................18 C3
4
monastery in Mongolia. It had between 60
KHARKHORIN (KARAKORUM) and 100 temples, about 300 gers inside the
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

13

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
ХАРХОРИН (КАРАКОРУМ) walls and, at its peak, up to 1000 monks 10
Market
x013258 / pop 8000 / elev 1913m in residence. 17
11
In the mid-13th century, Karakorum was a The monastery went through periods of ne- 15
16
happening place. Chinggis Khaan established glect and prosperity until finally the Stalinist 1
9
a supply base here and his son Ögedei ordered purges of 1937 put it completely out of busi-
the construction of a proper capital, a decree ness. All but three of the temples in Erdene 3

that attracted traders, dignitaries and skilled Zuu were destroyed and an unknown number 2 To Möngön Mod
Ger Camp (10km);
workers from across Asia and even Europe. of monks were either killed or shipped off to 18 Khujirt (54km);
Arvaikheer (138km);
The good times lasted around 40 years until Siberia and never heard from again. Ulaanbaatar (370km)
Phallic Rock.............................6 D3
Kublai moved the capital to Khanbalik (later However, a surprising number of statues, 14
INFORMATION Turtle Rock..............................7 D1
called Beijing), a decision that still incites re- tsam masks and thangkas were saved from the Internet Café............................(see 2)
Khan Bank..................................1 B2 SLEEPING
sentment among some Mongolians. Following monastery at the time of the purges – possibly Mongol Shuudan Bank............(see 2) Anar........................................8 A3 6
the move to Beijing and the subsequent col- with the help of a few sympathetic military Post Office...............................(see 2) Bayan Burd..............................9 C2
Telecom Office...........................2 B2 Crown Café.........................(see 15)
lapse of the Mongol empire, Karakorum was officers. The items were buried in nearby 8
Xac Bank....................................3 B2 Dreamland.............................10 A2
To Tövkhön Khiid (60km);
abandoned and then destroyed by vengeful mountains, or stored in local homes (at great Orkhon Khükhree (85km)
Möngön Mod........................11 B2 To Second Turtle Rock
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mönkhsuuri............................12 B1 (150m)m)
Manchurian soldiers in 1388. risk to the residents). Erdene Zuu Khiid........................4 D1 Riverside................................13 A2
Whatever was left of Karakorum was used The monastery remained closed until 1965 5 Great Imperial Map Monument..5 A3 Tavan Erdene.........................14 A3

to help build Erdene Zuu Khiid in the 16th when it was permitted to reopen as a museum,
century, which itself was badly damaged dur- but not as a place of worship. It was only with is a sacred number to Buddhists). The three made in 1965 and still well preserved. Look
ing the Stalinist purges. the collapse of communism in 1990 that reli- temples in the compound, which were not out for the inner circumambulation path lead-
The charmless Soviet-built town of gious freedom was restored and the monas- destroyed in the 1930s, are dedicated to the ing off to the left, just by the entrance.
Kharkhorin (and its gigantic flour factory) was tery became active again. Today, Erdene Zuu three stages of Buddha’s life: childhood, ado- The main and central temple is called the
built a couple of kilometres away from Erdene Khiid retains much of its former glory, and is lescence and adulthood. See p37 for a brief Zuu of Buddha. The entrance is flanked by the
Zuu. There is nothing of interest in the town considered by many to be the most important description of some of the gods you will see gods Gonggor on the left and Bandal Lham
and it’s a big disappointment if you’ve come ex- monastery in the country, though no doubt in the monastery. (Palden Lhamo in Sanskrit) on the right.
pecting the glories of Middle Ages, but a surge it’s a shadow of what it once was. Dalai Lama Süm was built in 1675 to com- Inside, on either side of the statues of the child
in tourism has improved local infrastructure. memorate the visit by Abtai Khaan’s son, Buddha, are (to the right) Otoch Manal, the
There are even plans to move the capital here Information Altan, to the Dalai Lama in Tibet. The room Medicine Buddha and (to the left) Holy Abida,
and build a modern planned city (you’ll see a Entrance to the monastery grounds (h9am-6pm is bare save for a statue of Zanabazar and some the god of justice. The temple also contains
billboard in town with the layout). Although summer, 10am-5pm winter) is free. If you want to fine 17th-century thangkas depicting the Dalai statues of Niam and Dabaa, the sun and moon
this isn’t expected to happen anytime soon, it see inside the temples, however, you’ll have Lamas and various protector deities. gods respectively, a few of the tsam masks that
doesn’t hurt for a small town to dream. to go to the ticket desk (x2285, 9926 8286) and Inside the courtyard, Baruun Zuu, the tem- survived the purges, some carved, aggressive-
souvenir shop on your left as you enter the ple to the west, built by Abtai Khaan and his looking guards from the 16th and 17th cen-
Information grounds from the south and buy a ticket for son, is dedicated to the adult Buddha. Inside, turies, and some displays of the work of the
Kharkhorin has no information office, but the US$3, which includes a guided tour of the site. on either side of Sakyamuni (the Historical revered sculptor and Buddhist, Zanabazar.
guides at Erdene Zuu (right) can answer most Permission to take photos in the temples is an Buddha), are statues of Sanjaa (‘Dipamkara’ In the temple to the east, Zuun Zuu, there’s
tourist-related questions. additional US$5 and video is US$10. in Sanskrit), the Past Buddha, to the left; and a statue depicting the adolescent Buddha.
Internet café (per hr T600; h8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, The monastery is an easy 2km walk from Maidar (‘Maitreya’ in Sanskrit), the Future The statue on the right is Tsongkhapa, who
9am-7pm Sun) Located in the Telecom office. the centre of Kharkhorin. Buddha, to the right. Other items on display founded the Yellow Hat sect of Buddhism
Khan Bank (x2124; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Can include some golden ‘wheels of eternity’, in Tibet. The figure on the left is Janraisig
change US dollars, euros and travellers cheques. Temples naimin takhel (the eight auspicious symbols), (Chenresig in Tibetan, Avalokitesvara in
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x2723; h9am-5pm The monastery is enclosed in an immense figurines from the 17th and 18th centuries, Sanskrit), the Bodhisattva of Compassion.
Mon-Fri) Gives cash against Visa debit cards. Inside the walled compound. Spaced evenly along each and balin (wheat dough cakes, decorated with As you walk north you will pass the Golden
Telecom office. wall, about every 15m, are 108 stupas (108 coloured medallions of goat or mutton fat), Prayer Stupa, built in 1799. The locked temple
 122 Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • K h a r k h o r i n ( K a r a k o r u m ) lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • K h a r k h o r i n ( K a r a k o r u m ) 123

STONE TURTLES the Mongol period (13th century). There are

THE ANCIENT CAPITAL Outside the monastery walls are two stone superb panoramic views from here.
Mongolia’s ancient capital may be gone, but Karakorum is certainly not forgotten. By piecing turtles (also called Turtle Rocks). Four of these
together the accounts of the city written by visiting missionaries, ambassadors and travellers we sculptures once marked the boundaries of an- Sleeping
have some idea of what the imperial capital once looked like. cient Karakorum, acting as protectors of the CAMPING
Frankly, it wasn’t much. The missionary William of Rubruck (1215–95) dismissed the city as city (turtles are considered symbols of eter- The rash of ger camps have taken over the best
being no bigger than the suburb of Saint Denis in Paris. Giovanni de Piano Carpine (1180–1252), nity). The turtles originally had an inscribed camping spots, but if you head out towards
an envoy sent to the Mongols in 1245 by Pope Innocent IV, described the city vaguely as ‘at the stone stele mounted vertically on their back. the main cluster of camps west of town near
distance of a year’s walk’ from Rome. One is easy to find: just walk out of the the Orkhon Gol you should be a able to find
The city never had much time to expand; it was really only the active capital for 40 years before northern gate of the monastery and follow somewhere to pitch a tent.
Kublai moved the capital to Khanbalik (Beijing). Few Mongols even lived there, most preferring the path northwest for about 300m. Often,
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
to stay in their gers several kilometres away on the steppe. It was mainly inhabited by artisans, an impromptu souvenir market is set up next GER CAMPS
scholars, religious leaders and others captured by the Mongols during their foreign raids. to one stone turtle. You’ll need a guide or Kharkhorin is inundated with ger camps and
Its main feature was a brick wall with four gates that encircled the city. Each gate had its directions to find the other one, which is on the fierce competition keeps prices in check.
own market, selling grain in the east, goats in the west, oxen and wagons in the south and the hill south of the monastery, about 600m Most camps are in a lovely valley 2km west
horses in the north. past the phallic rock. of town.
The Mongol khaans were famed for their religious tolerance and split their time equally be- Riverside (x9975 3970; [email protected]; per
tween all the religions, hence the 12 different religions that coexisted within the town. Mosques, ANCIENT KARAKORUM person US$12) About 1km from the road, towards
Buddhist monasteries and Nestorian Christian churches competed for the Mongols’ souls. Even Just beyond the stone turtle, stretching for the river, this decent camp has clean gers and
powerful figures such as Ögedei’s wife and Kublai’s mother were Nestorian Christians. about 1km south and east, is the site of ancient hot showers. It’s hidden in the trees and popu-
The centrepiece of the city was the Tumen Amgalan, or Palace of Worldly Peace, in the southwest Karakorum. The foundations of Karakorum’s lar with groups. The hostess speaks English.
corner of the city. This 2500-sq-metre complex, built in 1235, was the palace of Ögedei Khaan. buildings are all underground and little has Anar (x9665 8101; per person US$15) This place
The two-storey palace had a vast reception hall for receiving ambassadors, and its 64 pillars been excavated, so you need lots of imagi- is bigger and more commercialised than
resembled the nave of a church. The walls were painted, the green-tiled floor had underfloor nation when contemplating the grandness the others in the valley; it comes complete
heating, and the Chinese-style roof was covered in green and red tiles. Whenever he was at of it all. The plain was littered with bricks, with Chinggis Khaan statues and a ger gift
court, the khaan sat on a panther skin atop a great throne, to which stairs ascended from one ruined walls and pillars until the mid-16th shop. Meals are also available (breakfast
side and descended from the other. century when everything was picked up and US$2, lunch US$7, dinner US$3). It’s in a
A team of German archaeologists recently uncovered the foundations of the palace, close to used to build the walls and temples of nearby great location in the southwest corner of
the stone turtle (opposite). You can also see a model of the palace in the National Museum of Erdene Zuu. Next to the stone turtle you can the valley, and offers plenty of walking and
Mongolian History (p69) in Ulaanbaatar. see an area of raised earth surrounded by a horse-riding opportunities.
The most memorable aspect of the city was a fountain designed in 1253 by the French jeweller wire fence. This was the alleged site of Ögedei Dreamland (x9191 1931; 3-bed economy ger US$76,
and sculptor Guillaume Bouchier (or Bouchee) of Paris, who had been captured by the Mongols Khaan’s palace. lux ger s/d US$55/82, s/d US$58/92 lux s/d US$100/174; i)
in Hungary and brought back to embellish Karakorum. The fountain was in the shape of a huge The nicest camp in Kharkhorin is owned
silver tree, which simultaneously dispensed mare milk from silver lion heads, and wine, rice wine, PHALLIC ROCK and operated by a Mongolian sumo cham-
bal (mead) and airag from four golden spouts shaped like snake heads. On top of the tree was Near Kharkhorin, a 60cm long stone penis pion, and geared towards Japanese travellers.
an angel. On order a servant blew a pipe like a bugle that extended from the angel’s mouth, attracts steady streams of curiosity-seekers. Dreamland consists of a log cabin–style lodge
giving the order for other servants to pump drinks out of the tree. The ‘phallic rock’ (GPS: N47° 11.152’, E102° 51.235’), with immaculate rooms equipped with cable
Rubruck disparagingly describes various pleasure domes and epic feasts (during one of which which points erotically to something inter- TV, fridge, balcony and little niceties like slip-
the Mongol guests guzzled 105 cartloads of alcohol). There were also quarters of artisans and estingly called a ‘vaginal slope’, is hidden pers and robes. Only the lux rooms come with
traders, populated by a great mix of people brought back to Karakorum from all over Asia. So up a small valley, about 2km southeast of attached shower and bath. It also has luxury
cosmopolitan was the city that both foreign and Mongol coins were legal tender. Erdene Zuu Khiid. A giant penis, painted gers, complete with air-con, carpets and comfy
onto a sign by the road, ‘points’ you in the beds, or the option of standard gers. An in-
right direction. ternet ger offers free web access for guests. A
next to this is said to be the first temple built of Abtai Khaan (1554–88) and his grandson Legend has it that the rock was placed here beautiful Japanese-style sauna and bathhouse
at Erdene Zuu. Tüshet Khaan Gombodorj (the father of in an attempt to stop frisky monks, filled with completes the picture. The restaurant is in-
The large white temple at the far end is the Zanabazar) stand in front of the Dalai Lama lust by the shapely slope, from fraternising side a huge ger and offers an excellent menu
Tibetan-style Lavrin Süm, where ceremonies Süm and are inscribed in Mongol, Tibetan and with the local women. (dishes from T6000 to T12,000) designed by
are held every morning, usually starting at Arabic scripts. In the northeast of the monas- the California restaurant in Ulaanbaatar.
around 11am; the times vary so ask at the tery are the base stones of a gigantic ger (now GREAT IMPERIAL MAP MONUMENT Möngön Möd (x311 637, 99199134; www.intourtrade
office. Visitors are welcome, but photographs called the Square of Happiness and Prosperity), This large new monument (admission T500), built .mn; per person with 3 meals US$30) Located 11km from
during ceremonies are not. set up in 1639 to commemorate Zanabazar’s in 2004, is on a hill overlooking Kharkhorin Kharkhorin on the road to Shankh Khiid, this
birthday. The ger was reported to be 15m high to the southwest. The three sides honour place offers better-than-average services. Horse
Other Sights and 45m in diameter, with 35 concertina-style various empires established on the Orkhon riding and tours are available for around US$50
Apart from the main temples, there are several walls, and could seat 300 during the annual Gol, including the Hunnu period (300–200 a day for guide and driver. Don’t confuse it with
other interesting things to see. The gravestones assemblies of the local khaans. BC), the Turkic period (AD 600–800) and the hotel of the same name in Kharkhorin.
 124 Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • W e s t o f K h a r k h o r i n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com Ö V Ö R K HA N G A I • • E a s t o f K h a r k h o r i n 125

GUESTHOUSES & HOTELS Getting There & Away 1937 but rebuilt with public funds in the Despite heavy promotion by the tourist
Mönkhsuuri (x9937 4488, 2031; monkhsuuri_gh@ Erdene Zuu and the nearby sights are a 2km early 1990s. industry, the waterfall often disappoints visi-
yahoo.com; GPS: N47° 12.125’, E102° 48.718’; per person incl walk from town; otherwise ask around for a Situated at the top of Shireet Ulaan Uul, tors as it’s dry for about 10 months of the year.
breakfast & dinner US$5) This small, scruffy home- lift (about T500). Zanabazar apparently liked the unusual for- Late July and August are the best times to
stay is in the suburbs northwest of the market. mation of the peak; the rocky outcrop looks see it. When it does run, the roads leading
It consists of several gers in a hashaa (fenced AIR like an enormous throne. It was here that to it are often washed out, making transport
area), a pit toilet and a hot-water shower. There are no regularly scheduled flights here, Zanabazar created many of his best artistic here very difficult. Even in dry weather the
Mönkhsuuri is a friendly and helpful host; although EZ Nis sometimes does a charter endeavours, some of which can be found now road is pretty rough. Inquire about the status
she works as a guide at Erdene Zuu Khiid and package deal that includes flights, hotels in the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts (p69) of the falls and the roads when you get to
is most easily contacted there. Call ahead as and food. in Ulaanbaatar. Kharkhorin or Khujirt.
it’s impossible to find on your own (unless Several pilgrimage sites have grown up In summer, a handful of nomad families
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
you have GPS). HITCHING around the temple and hermits’ caves, in- open up a guest ger, charging T3000 per
Tavan Erdene (x9919 4452; zandankhuu_d@yahoo Hitching along the main road between cluding one that is said to be Zanabazar’s person. More formal ger camps in the area
.com; GPS: N47° 11.334’, E102° 48.461’; per person US$8) Ulaanbaatar and Kharkhorin is fairly easy, boot imprint. Locals will also instruct you include Möngön Khürkhree (x9910 3185, 9111 4444;
This ger-guesthouse is a little cleaner and but remember that a lot of vehicles will be car- to enter the rebirth cave although this is not www.bayangobi.com; per person without food US$8), which
nicer than Mönkhsuuri but more expen- rying tourists, so they may not want to pick up recommended if you have a fear of heights has hot shower and flush toilets.
sive. It has hot showers and clean flush a hitchhiker. Getting a lift between Arvaikheer (getting to the cave requires climbing up a If you have a rod and reel, you could try
toilets. It’s run by Zandankhuu, an English- and Kharkhorin is less likely, but if you’re steep precipice). The main temple closes after catching your dinner. Good spots for catching
speaking guide at Erdene Zuu. patient something will come along. morning services (between 10am and 11am) lenok trout can be found downstream from
Crown Café (x9924 2980; [email protected]; Hitchhiking between Kharkhorin and and the complex shuts down by 7pm. the waterfall.
without meals T5000) Ger accommodation and hot Khujirt shouldn’t be too much of a hassle; The temple is in Khangai Nuruu National Park
showers are available behind this restaurant. many Mongolians take the Ulaanbaatar to (admission T3000) and best reached with your own EAST OF KHARKHORIN
The gers are OK but the yard is a mess and Kharkhorin road to reach the popular spa town vehicle. A good 4WD can drive the steep road There are several interesting places between
they only have pit toilets. of Khujirt. In Kharkhorin, ask around the con- up to the monastery in 20 minutes, but old Kharkhorin and Khustain National Park
Bayan Burd (x2315, 9909 7372; dm US$6, half-lux/lux tainer market, or just stand by the road. Russian jeeps and vans can’t make the trip (p115) en route to/from Ulaanbaatar.
US$9/11, shower/sauna T1500/2000) If you prefer a so you’ll have to walk (one hour) up the hill
midrange hotel rather than a ger, this is the MINIVANS & JEEPS through the forest. From the car park it’s Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve
best choice. All rooms are clean and comfort- Minivans run daily to Ulaanbaatar (T10,000, 2.5km. The route is obvious and in summer Хөгнө Хан Уул
able and the lux room with attached toilet is eight hours) from the container market, leav- locals offer horse rides (T1000) to the top. Although it’s just off the main Ulaanbaatar–
good value. No rooms have hot water but you ing sometime after 8am, whenever they are Swarms of flies will probably plague your as- Kharkhorin highway, this nature reserve sees
can use the hot shower downstairs. The owner full. As the road is all but sealed, this is one of cent; wrap a T-shirt, bandana or towel around relatively few visitors. Its arid terrain of rocky
is usually willing to bargain. the more bearable long-distance trips in the your head to keep them away. A small shop at semi-desert is good for short hikes and there
Möngön Mod (Silver Tree; x2777, 9989 3883; ger countryside. There are far fewer vehicles going the top sells bottled water and snacks. are a few old temples to explore, both ru-
T5000, d/tr T10,000/12,000) The building looks like to Khujirt (T2000) and Arvaikheer (T5000) – It’s not possible to camp at the monastery, ined and active. At the southern foot of the
it’s about to collapse but the rooms inside maybe one or two per day if any at all. but there are a couple of ger camps by the mountain are the ruins of Övgön Khiid (Өвгөн
aren’t too bad. And most guests end up stay- A post office van runs every Wednesday entrance to the national park. The Tövkhön Хийд; GPS: N47° 25.561’, E103° 41.686’; admission T1000),
ing in one of the nicer gers outside. The hot- and Friday afternoon to Khujirt (T2000) and (x9191 3025; per person US$13) has hot showers built in 1660 and destroyed (and the monks
water shower is fairly reliable. Don’t confuse Arvaikheer (T4500). Inquire at the post office and flush toilets. Nearby Guruv Khangai (x9119 massacred) by the armies of Zungar Galdan
this with the ger camp listed earlier. for details. 7254; 3-bed ger T15,000) is a cheaper option with Bochigtu, a rival of Zanabazar’s in 1640.
The road from Kharkhorin to Khujirt basic facilities. About 10 monks reside here in the summer
(54km) is being upgraded. The aimag capi- The monastery is around 60km from months. The head lama is a charming woman
Eating tal, Arvaikheer, is 138km to the southeast. Kharkhorin. Just follow the Orkhon Gol who professes soothsaying abilities.
All the ger camps serve meals, the best being The 160km road between Kharkhorin and southwest for around 50km and turn north, The mountain is in Bulgan aimag but
the Dreamland Camp, which has a branch of Tsetserleg is likewise being upgraded. up a side valley. You can also get here most easily accessed from the Ulaanbaatar–
Ulaanbaatar’s California restaurant. Crown Café from Khujirt. Arvaikheer road.
(x9924 2980; meals T2500-4000; h9am-11pm) has a WEST OF KHARKHORIN The ruins of the earlier destroyed monas-
European-style menu that includes tasty items Tövkhön Khiid Төвхөн Хийд Orkhon Khürkhree Орхон Хүрхрээ tery (GPS: N47° 26.267’, E103° 42.527’) are a lovely
such as fried chicken and tomato soup. Some Hidden deep in the Khangai mountains, this From Tövkhön Khiid, you could continue 45-minute (2km) walk along a well-
items, however, are pretty disappointing – the incredibly scenic monastery (GPS: N47° 00.772’, onto this magnificent seasonal waterfall defined path up the valley to the right. The
Hungarian goulash is similar to regular old E102° 15.362’) has become a major pilgrim- (GPS: N46° 47.234’, E101° 57.694’), also called Ulaan surroundings belong to the 46,900-hectare
Mongolian goulash. Service can also be very age centre for Mongolians seeking spiritual Tsutgalan (Улаан Цутгалан). A little way Khögnö Khan Nature Reserve and you might
slow and the staff are not very forthcoming. solace. Zanabazar founded the site in 1653 downstream from Orkhon Khürkhree, you spot ibex, wolves and many varieties of
On the plus side, it has homemade cookies and lived, worked and meditated here for can climb down to the bottom of the gorge; it’s hawk. There are lots of hiking possibilities
and other sweets. 30 years. The monastery was destroyed in 22m deep and dotted with pine trees. around here.
 126 A R K HA N G A I • • Ts e t s e r l e g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R K HA N G A I • • Ts e t s e r l e g 127

SLEEPING onto your hook. It’s also a great place for the Sights TSETSERLEG
Camping is excellent in the valley, though classic ‘Mongolian experience’, with many The Museum of Arkhangai Aimag (x22281; admission 0 300 m
0 0.2 miles
the only water comes from a hard-to-find opportunities to visit nomad camps, go horse T2500, exterior/interior photos T2000/T5000; h9am-6pm)
well at the lower end of the valley. All of the riding and photograph the odd yak caravan is one of the best in the country. It’s housed A B
following ger camps have horses for rent for plodding slowly along ancient trails. in the temple complex of Zayain Gegeenii Süm,
about US$3 per hour. Arkhangai lies mostly on the northern slope which was first built in 1586 but expanded 1
INFORMATION
Internet Café..........................................(see 3)
Övgön Erdene Tour Camp (Monastery Ger Camp; of the Khangai mountains, an undulating in 1679, when it housed five temples and up Mongol Shuudan Bank.............................1 A5
with meals US$25) This well-built ger camp and range with several peaks more than 3300m. to 1000 monks. Miraculously, the monastery
Post Office.............................................(see 3)
Strictly Protected Areas Office..................2 B5
wood lodge is a short walk from the temple. The mountains are by no means impenetrable escaped the Stalinist purges because it was Telecom Office.........................................3 B5
It is run by the monks at the Övgön Khiid. and it’s possible to travel through the passes made into a museum. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Khögnö Khan (with/without meals US$30/15) Located on horse and jeep trails to Bayankhongor The main hall concentrates on features of Buyandelgerüülekh Khiid..........................4 A5
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
Galdan Zuu Temple..................................5 A4
4km southwest of Övgön Khiid. aimag. In winter, nomads use the passes on traditional Mongolian lifestyle, with exhibits Government House..................................6 A5
Bayangobi (with meals US$40) Some travellers traditional otors (treks) to find grazing land of costumes, traditional tools, a ger, musi- Museum of Arkhangai Aimag...................7 A4
have stayed for about US$15 without meals for their animals. cal instruments, weaponry and saddles. The SLEEPING
when the camp isn’t busy. The camp can Travellers often hurry through the centre of displays have some useful English captions. 2 Fairfield Guesthouse.................................8 B5
Naran Hotel..............................................9 B5
be reached by branching south for 6km off Arkhangai on their way to Terkhiin Tsagaan The second hall concentrates on religious Sundur Hotel..........................................10 B6
the main road, 3km west of the turn-off to Nuur. With a bike or horse, however, there are icons. The other two rooms of the former EATING
Khögnö Khan Uul. plenty of valleys and remote trails to explore main prayer hall are empty, while the last hall Cactus Bar..............................................11 B5
both north and south of the main road. You focuses on local artwork. Fairfield..................................................(see 8)
Tsakhiur...............................................(see 13)
GETTING THERE & AWAY barely need this book to find beautiful and Further up the hill, the Galdan Zuu Temple has
To get to Khögnö Khan Uul from interesting places; just head off into the hills been renovated with donations given by the lo- SHOPPING
Art Shop.................................................12 B5
Kharkhorin by jeep, turn north off the main and see what you can discover. Along the way cals. It stands behind an impressive 7m statue Department Store...................................13 A5
road, 80km east of Kharkhorin. The road you’ll be invited into plenty of gers for cups of the Buddha. Behind the temple is a large,
Market...................................................14 B6

passes several ger camps until, after 8km, of airag and hot tea to keep you full until you nearly vertical, rocky hill called Bulgan Uul, 3 TRANSPORT
you reach Khögnö Khan ger camp, where reach the next valley. where there are some Buddhist inscriptions.
Bus/Jeep & Truck Stop............................15 B5
Jeep Stand..............................................16 B6
you turn right for the remaining 4km or so At street level the Buyandelgerüülekh Khiid
to the monastery ruins. There is a shortcut TSETSERLEG ЦЭЦЭРЛЭГ (Буяндэлгэрүүлэх Хийд) is now the town’s
To Gangin Gol
(1km)
if you are coming from Ulaanbaatar (turn x01332 / pop 17,900 / elev 1691m main functioning monastery. The temple
right after the Bichigt Khad ger camp). Nestled comfortably between rugged moun- has an atmospheric clutter of assorted reli- Bulgan Uul
There is no public transport to the mon- tains, with tree-lined streets and a quaint gious artefacts, and religious services are held
astery but you can take a Kharkhorin-, temple overlooking the town, Tsetserleg regularly, either in the main hall or in a ger 5

Khujirt- or Arvaikheer-bound minivan from gets our vote for Mongolia’s most beautiful next door.
Ulaanbaatar, get off at the turn-off on the aimag capital. In the north of town a trail leads to the 4
main road (T5000) and then hitch (or more Tsetserleg is a perfect place to break up pretty Gangin Gol, which offers great hiking
likely walk) the remaining 12km. your journey if you are combining a visit to potential. At the mouth of the valley is a ger 7

Kharkhorin or Khujirt with a trip to Terkhiin camp and a pitiful nature museum of stuffed
Mongol Els Монгол Элс Tsagaan Nuur or Khövsgöl Nuur. There are animals, which isn’t worth the T1000 the care-
As you approach the border of Övörkhangai some decent restaurants and hotels, busy tem- taker will demand. 4
from Ulaanbaatar, one surprising sight that ples and a striking aimag museum. Nature 2
livens up a fairly boring stretch of road is lovers will appreciate the hiking opportunities Sleeping 13 1 9
8
the sand dunes of Mongol Els. If you don’t and good camping spots. Tourist activities re- CAMPING 12
have the time to visit the Gobi (where there volve around the Fairfield Café & Guesthouse, Gangin Gol has some great camping spots, 5
6
Town
are not a lot of sand dunes anyway), these an attraction in its own right. though someone may come and collect a du- Square
are certainly worth wandering around. bious ‘fee’ for camping in a ‘nature reserve’ Statue of
Demid
Information (it’s not). A few hundred metres past the 11 15

ARKHANGAI Internet café (x21110; per hr T440; h9am-9pm

Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) In the Telecom office.
ger camp is a grassy enclosure that’s perfect
for camping. Police
3

АРХАНГАЙ Mongol Shuudan Bank (x22673) Changes cash and

allows you to withdraw money from debit and credit cards.
There are some nice spots a few kilometres
south of town on the banks of the river. Cinema
10

pop 96,100 / area 55,000 sq km Strictly Protected Areas office (x21179; To Zamchin Hotel (200m);
Khavtgai Mod (2km);
14

Arkhangai is all about wild nature, nomads [email protected]; h9am-6pm) Has informa- GER CAMPS 6 Tosontsengel (350km)

and downhome hospitality. The magic of this tion on Arkhangai’s national parks and can give advice on Khavtgai Mod (x9911 8262; without meals T3500) On To Ulaanbaatar
(453km)
16
wild aimag reveals itself at every turn, from tourist sites, fishing licences and park fees. a hillside a couple of kilometres out of town
sunsets viewed from the top of volcanic cra- Telecom office (x21108; h24hr) The post office is to the west, this camp has a good location in To Airport (1.5km);
Bunkhan Camp (42km)
ters to rushing streams where fish seem to leap also here. the forest and valley views. It’s fine for a quick
 128 A R K HA N G A I • • Ts e t s e r l e g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com A R K HA N G A I • • Ts e n k h e r H o t S p r i n g s 129

night’s sleep but the facilities aren’t great and and beer by night seems to be a standard If you are travelling from Tsetserleg to Buddhist stupa and the ruler’s kagan (castle),
there is no shower. course of events at the Cactus. It is opposite Mörön (for Khövsgöl Nuur), the quick- in the southwest corner. From the walls you
the Telecom office. est route is due north via Erdenemandal. can see the rows of stupas on either side of
HOTELS Tsakhiur (meals T1300; h11am-11pm) A little However, if you’ve come this far (and have a the walls and the remains of irrigated fields
oFairfield Guesthouse (x21036, 9909 8612; fancier than other places, this upmarket res- couple of days to spare), it’s worth heading a in the surrounding countryside. The city had
per person incl breakfast T12,000) Attached to the res- taurant (it has tablecloths) is near the depart- bit further west through central Arkhangai to an elaborate plumbing system, which brought
taurant of the same name, this nine-room ment store on the north end of town. It serves Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur, before heading north water into the city from the nearby river.
guesthouse is a popular choice and one of the local favourites such as goulash and puntutste to Mörön via Jargalant. The ruins (GPS: N47° 25.782’, E102° 39.490’) lie east of
only hotels in the countryside where you need khuurag (clear or glass noodles). the road connecting Ögii Nuur and Khotont
a reservation in summer. Nonattached rooms TSENKHER HOT SPRINGS and aren’t easy to get to. If you are travelling
are clean and cosy and there is an excellent Shopping ЦЭНХЭР ХАЛУУН РАШААН to/from the Kul-Teginii Monument, the best
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
breakfast. The hotel is a travellers’ hub with a The Art Shop (x9933 6851;h10am-7pm) sells Located 27km from Tsetserleg, these hot springs place to cross the river is 6km northeast of
book exchange and a popular café. It’s a great Mongolian dels (traditional coats) and jack- make for an easy detour from the main road. Khar Balgas; anywhere else and it’s bog city.
place to pick up advice on regional travel. ets, plus locally produced art and artefacts. It’s Three ger camps have been built around the
Naran Hotel (x9933 2900, 9908 9343; r per person next to the Fairfield Guesthouse. The Fairfield springs; each pumps water into splash pools KUL-TEGINII MONUMENT
T4000, half-lux/lux T8000/16,000) Although only a few also has a fair-trade gift shop. that cost around US$5 to enter. The pool at КУЛ-ТЭГИНИЙ ХӨШӨӨ
years old, this seven-room hotel is already Everyday goods are best bought at the Tsenkher Jiguur (x9914 5520; www.visit2mongolia.mn; When Chinggis Khaan decided to move his
breaking down. Further complicating mat- department store at the northern end of town. GPS: N47° 19.241’, E101° 39.411’; ger US$16) is the clean- capital to Karakorum, he was well aware
ters is the noisy Neptune Club in the same The daily market (khunsnii zakh), on the est and hottest of the bunch; it is lined with that the region had already been the capital
building. Standard rooms use a shared bath- corner of the main road and the road to rocks (rather than concrete) and connected to to successive nomad empires. About 20km
room down the hall while lux rooms have an Ulaanbaatar, has enough products for a pre- a well-maintained bathhouse. There are sepa- northeast of Khar Balgas lies the remainder
attached shower and bath. trekking shopping trip. rate pools for men and women. For directions of yet another of these pre-Mongol empires,
Sundur Hotel (x22359; r US$8, half-lux/lux US$15/20; from Tsetserleg ask at the Fairfield café. the Turkic khaganate (pre-Mongol empire).
i) The cheapest rooms here have only a Getting There & Away All that’s left of the khaganate is the 3m-high
toilet and no shower, but all others have nice There are no flights to Tsetserleg, so the only ÖGII NUUR ӨГИЙ НУУР inscribed monument of Kul-Tegin (684–731),
bathrooms with hot water (at fixed times of way here is by bus or shared vehicle. On the road between Ulaanbaatar and the khagan (ruler) of the ancient empire.
the day only – check the times with reception). Tsetserleg, near the border with Bulgan aimag, The monument (GPS: N47° 33.837’, E102° 49.931’) was
Internet access is free for guests and there is BUS this lake (GPS: N47° 47.344’, E102° 45.828’) is a wonder- raised in AD 732 and is inscribed in Runic
a decent restaurant downstairs that serves A daily bus departs Tsetserleg at 8am for ful place for birdlife. Cranes and ducks, among and Chinese script. You can see a copy of the
Mongolian food. Ulaanbaatar (T10,500, 11 hours). Purchase other species, migrate to the area around late stele in the entrance of the National Museum
Zamchin Hotel (x22274; d/tr US$8/12, half-lux/lux the ticket at least one day ahead. Make inquir- April. The lake is also renowned for its fishing of Mongolian History in Ulaanbaatar (p69).
US$22/28; i) A reliable place, Zamchin has a ies at the Fairfield café. (and the bugs by the shore!). Just over 1km away is another monument
restaurant, sauna and hot shower. Rooms are The lake and Khar Balgas ruins can only be to Bilge Khagan (AD 683–734), older brother
spacious but it’s away from the centre, on the HITCHING reached from the direct road linking Tsetserleg of Kul-Tegin. Ten years after the death of
western road out of town. All types of vehicles go to/from Tsetserleg with Ulaanbaatar. The lake makes a nice over- Bilge, the Turkic khaganate was overrun by
and, generally, along the main road through night stop with plenty of camping spots. A ger the Uighurs.
Eating Arkhangai. Wait on the main road into and camp on the east shore serves meals. A Turkish-funded archaeological expedi-
oFairfield (x21026; meals T2000-6500; h9am- out of town (heading east or west) and some- If you are travelling west of Ögii Nuur you tion, based out of a huge hanger near the site,
6pm Mon-Sat) This British-run café is one of the thing will eventually stop. might want to carry onto the Beaten Paths Ger is working on making reproductions of the
highlights of Tsetserleg and should feature Camp (x5033 1020, 5033 7376; [email protected]) in monuments. If you don’t see the monuments
prominently on your itinerary. Sit down at one MINIVAN & JEEP Battsengel sum (region). The camp was set up where they should be, ask the friendly care-
of the wooden tables, order a meal and leaf Microbuses and minivans run between with the help of a local Peace Corps volunteer taker to let you into the hanger.
through a copy of Time or the Economist while Tsetserleg and Ulaanbaatar (T15,000, 10 and offers horse riding among other activi- The two monuments are 25km northwest
you wait. A full English breakfast (T6500) con- hours). In Tsetserleg, try the minivans at ties. The camp is halfway between Ögii Nuur of Khashaat in a region called Tsaidam, about
sists of bacon, sausage, eggs, toast and pancakes – the jeep stand opposite the market. Drivers and Tsetserleg. 47km north of Kharkhorin, and are hard to
a real treat in this part of the world. Lunch and in Tsetserleg have developed a dual-pricing find. Amateur historians who relish a chal-
dinner options include lasagne, burgers with system so that tourists are charged twice KHAR BALGAS ХАР БАЛГАС lenge are best off packing a GPS into their
Indian mutton, chilli con carne, beef in beer as much as locals. Bargaining hard doesn’t The ruined citadel of Khar Balgas (Kara jeep; otherwise ask at gers en route from either
sauce and Cornish pasties. Pastries are served help much and you may have to pay their Balgasun in Turkic) is in Khotont sum on Khashaat or Ögii Nuur.
all day long and are great snacks to take with ‘tourist prices’. the banks of the Orkhon Gol. The city was
you on the road. The café is also a good place to There are two routes between Tsetserleg founded in AD 751 as the capital of the TAIKHAR CHULUU
ask about travel conditions and look for a ride if and Ulaanbaatar – directly east via Ögii Nuur Uighur Khaganate, which ruled Mongolia ТАЙХАР ЧУЛУУ
you are hitching around the country. (453km) or along the longer but better road from 744 to 840. The nondescript town of Ikh Tamir is 22km
Cactus Bar (snacks T500-1000; h10am-10pm ) Hot via Kharkhorin (493km). Tosontsengel is a There’s not much to see except the outer along the main road west of Tsetserleg. The
khuushuur (fried mutton pancakes) by day mere 350km to the northwest. walls (with gates in the north and south), a reason to stop here is to inspect the enormous
 130 A R K HA N G A I • • K h o r g o -Te r k h i i n Ts a g a a n N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com A R K HA N G A I • • A r o u n d Te r k h i i n Ts a g a a n N u u r 131

ing. There is good fishing, endless fresh water, N48° 09.245’, E99° 53.351’; per night T5000) is convenient
RETREAT TO THE KHANGAI and flat ground for pitching a tent. The west- if you want to do things like charge batter-
Horse lovers, poets, writers, photographers, yogis, Buddhist practitioners or plain old refugees ern end of the lake, where it joins the Khoid ies and get your laundry done. Tunga speaks
of commercialism are all welcome at the Bunkhan Camp, a lovely ger camp set deep in the Terkhiin Gol, is muddy. The best place to English. Guest gers are available behind the Ma
Khangai mountains. The camp, 42km south of Tsetserleg, is operated by an American couple, camp is the northern part, away from the ger Bagsh (x9962 7615; per night US$5) restaurant.
anthropologist Carroll Dunham and photographer Thomas Kelly, and their Mongolian partners camps. The area is cold year-round, and often
Gerlee and Toroo. windy, so a good sleeping bag is vital. Eating
Workshops lasting two weeks include wilderness poetry, meditation, yoga and photography, All the camps around the lake provide reason-
with space for 10 to 12 people at a time. It’s a great place to unwind, meet like-minded people GER CAMPS ably priced meals. Self-caterers can stock up
and commune with nature. Horses are available and visitors can go on pack trips to nearby Blue Several camps are built up along the shore of on supplies in either Tariat or the shops by the
Lake. The camp is kid-friendly, with plenty of options for fishing, archery and horse riding. Costs the lake, but they are all fairly spread out so lake. In Tariat, you could try Ma Bagsh (x9962
CENTRAL MONGOLIA

CENTRAL MONGOLIA
average out to US$150 per day for adults and US$80 per day for kids. For more information see it’s not too crowded. 7615; meals T1500; h9am-midnight), a better-than-
www.wildearthjourneys.com or contact [email protected]. Tunga’s Ger Camp (www.tungaguesthouse.com; GPS: average restaurant serving mainly Mongolian
N48° 09.318’, E99° 45.206’; per person T6000) The only meals. It’s near the bridge.
camp on the southern shore of the lake, this
Taikhar Chuluu rock formation. The rock is The lake, which was formed by lava flows basic place is 12km west of Tariat. The price Getting There & Away
the subject of many local legends, the most from a volcanic eruption many millennia ago, includes breakfast and hot shower; horse trips Occasional minivans run to/from Ulaanbaatar
common one being that a great baatar (hero), is excellent for swimming, though a bit cold in are also organised. It’s run by local English and Tsetserleg. From anywhere else you are
crushed a huge serpent here by hurling the the morning – try the late afternoon, after the teacher Tunga, who also has a guesthouse better off hitching.
rock on top of it. Locals claim there are some sun has warmed it. Hidden along the shore are in Tariat. From the lake to Tosontsengel (179km),
ancient Tibetan inscriptions on the rock, stretches of sandy beach, perfect for lounging Khorgo I (x011-322 870, 9916 2847; GPS: N48° 12.246’, the main road climbs over Solongotyn Davaa,
though you’ll be lucky to spot them through with a book or fishing line. E99° 50.834’; with/without meals US$30/14) In a lovely a phenomenally beautiful area. You can see
30 years of Mongolian graffiti. There is even The fishing is great, though you should get a location in the Zurkh Gol Khundii (Heart patches of permanent ice from the road. The
an ovoo at the top. permit for around T3000 per day. There are sev- River valley) by the northeast section of the road has been upgraded to an all-weather
You could camp anywhere along the Khoid eral park rangers who sell permits but they can lake, Khorgo I is run by Tsolmon Travel in gravel road but is still rough in patches.
Tamir Gol. Taikhar Ger Camp (x9919 8512; per be hard to find; try asking at the park entrance Ulaanbaatar (p81). The camp has hot showers For the route to Mörön, see p162.
person US$12), next to the rock, has hot-water by the bridge in Tariat (also known as Khorgo), and there is excellent hiking nearby. To get
showers and flush toilets. or at the government building in Tariat. there take the road north of Tariat into the AROUND TERKHIIN TSAGAAN NUUR
Taikhar Chuluu is about 2km north of Ikh One must-do excursion takes you to the park and take the branch to the right when There are a number of scenic areas in the
Tamir along the river – you can see it from top of Khorgo Uul volcano. A road leads 4km you get near the volcano. environs of Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur that are
the main road. from Tariat village to the base of the volcano, Tsagaan Nuur (x9981 7465; GPS: N48° 10.621’, E99° worth exploring on horseback. These include
from where it’s a 10-minute walk up to the 48.691’; without meals US$10, meals T2500) This is the Noyon Khangai National Park (Ноён Хангай),
KHORGO-TERKHIIN TSAGAAN cone (GPS: N48° 11.187’, E99° 51.259’). The volcano is first camp on the north shore of the lake. a mountainous area rich in wildlife and hot
NUUR NATIONAL PARK ХОРГО- in the park so you’ll need to pay the park fee Horses are T3000 per hour. The owners also springs (GPS: N47° 44.607’, E99° 24.861’) covered by
ТЭРХИЙН ЦАГААН НУУР of T3000 if you haven’t already. rent fishing rods. wooden huts (the water is 33°C). By road it’s a
Amid volcanic craters, pine-clad lava fields There is also the option of exploring the Further around the lake you’ll see some ‘ger rough 78km from Tariat; the area is a national
and the occasional herd of grazing yaks, the lake by boat. A rowing boat and a motorboat hotels’ that charge T4000 per person. There is park so you may need to pay a T3000 entry
Great White Lake, as it’s known in English, cost around T5000 per hour to hire. Inquire also a shop nearby selling soft drinks, confec- fee, although there is rarely anyone around
is the natural highlight of Arkhangai aimag. at the Khorgo I ger camp. tionary and fishing equipment. to collect the fees.
According to legend, the lake was formed Maikhan Tolgoi (x9911 9730, 9908 9730; GPS: Around 60km northeast of Tariat village,
when an elderly couple forgot to cap a well Information N48° 10.821’, E99° 45.725’; without meals US$15) Set on Choidogiin Borgio (Чойдогийн Боргио), where
after fetching water. The valley flooded with Tariat village has an internet café (per hr T600; a headland on the northern shore of the lake, the Chuluut and Ikh Jargalantiin Gols con-
water until a local hero shot a nearby moun- h9am-9pm). this is perhaps the most attractive camp on verge, is a fine hiking, fishing and camping area.
tain top with his arrow; the shorn top cov- the lake. It has flush toilets, hot showers and The road here is even worse than the one
ered the well and became an island in the lake Festivals a cosy restaurant. to Noyon Khangai, which makes it a great
(Noriin Dund Tolgoi). If you’ve got a taste for yak cream or are destination by horse or bike but a lousy trip
The freshwater Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur is not as keen on yak racing, plan a visit to Terkhiin GUESTHOUSES by car.
forested or as large as Khövsgöl Nuur, but it is Tsagaan Nuur in the second week of June, Tariat village, about 6km east of the lake, is About 30km east of Tariat is the dramatic
closer to Ulaanbaatar, relatively undeveloped when Tsolmon travel company (x011-322 870, 9929 the only town in the area. Accommodation Chuluut gorge, which makes a pleasant picnic
and just about perfect for camping (though 5732) hosts its annual Yak Festival by the lake. is basic, with just one run-down hotel and stop. Near the gorge, look out for a sacred
there are a few flies in summer). The lake, a couple of guesthouses. Tunga’s Guesthouse tree, Zuun Salaa Mod (GPS: N48° 07.936’, E100° 16.420’),
birdlife and mountains are now protected Sleeping (x9928 5710, 9983 6144; www.tungaguesthouse.com; GPS: draped in prayer scarves and debris.
within the 77,267-hectare Khorgo-Terkhiin CAMPING
Tsagaan Nuur National Park. The national Except for a few annoying flies, Terkhiin
park fee of T3000 applies. Tsagaan Nuur is an excellent place for camp-
 © Lonely Planet Publications
CENTRAL MONGOLIA 132 www.lonelyplanet.com

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132 lonelyplanet.com S E L E N G E 133

History destination is Khövsgöl Nuur, the quickest

Northern Mongolia For thousands of years northern Mongolia was

the borderland between the Turkic-speaking
tribes of Siberia and the great steppe confede-
way into the area is either on a flight from
Ulaanbaatar to Mörön or by jeep via Bulgan.
Main jeep tracks also run from Ulaangom
rations of the Huns, Uighurs and Mongols. and Tosontsengel in the west to Mörön,
Some of the Siberian tribes still survive in but tracks heading north from Tsetserleg
Mongolia, notably the Tsaatan people of in central Mongolia are more difficult to
northern Khövsgöl. Evidence of these steppe find. To travel between Selenge aimag and
Log cabins, pine forests and monstrous fish do not conform to the classic image of Mongolia’s nomads is also found in Khövsgöl in the form the east, you’ll have to come back through
desolate steppes. But strung along its northern border are three aimags (provinces) of such of numerous burial mounds and deer stones. Ulaanbaatar first, or go by horse.
lush and serene vegetation that one might confuse them for bits of Switzerland. Selenge, Bul- Settled history really began in the 18th cen-
tury under Manchu rule when thousands of Getting Around
gan and Khövsgöl aimags actually have more in common with Siberia than Mongolia. Winters Improvements to the roads to the Russian
monks poured into the area from Tibet and
are long and cold, with snow staying on the ground until May. Summers bring wildflowers China to assist in the construction of mon- border, Erdenet and Bulgan make life a lot
and the snowmelt fills up lakes and rivers, many of which flow north to Lake Baikal in Siberia. asteries. As the nomads were converted to easier in terms of getting into the region.
The area teems with elk, reindeer and bear, and the rivers and lakes brim with fish. Beautiful Buddhism local shamans were purged and har- The fun starts as you travel further west,
assed into giving up traditional practices. The with the usual dirt roads and rocky terrain.
Khövsgöl Nuur, the major feature of the region, pokes Siberia in the belly. Travellers who enjoy train travel can ride
largest centre of religion, Amarbayasgalant
Khiid, had more than 2000 lamas. the rails as far as Erdenet and hire a vehicle
Although the majority of the people are Khalkh, here are also Buriats and Turkic-speaking
During communism, religious persecution from there. The horse is a popular form of
peoples, including the Tsaatan, the reindeer herders. Shamanism has long been the faith of transport in the mountains. While there is
boiled over into a 1932 rebellion that left thou-
choice in the forests and, after decades of persecution, it is being revived and encouraged. sands of monks and Mongolian soldiers dead. very little organised adventure travel, some
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
The fighting was particularly bloody in the tour companies offer mountain-biking trips
The fragile environment is crucial to the economy and this area is a major battleground in the region. A few crazies have even pad-
north, where monks were reportedly stringing
between environmentalists and business interests that want to log the forests and explore soldiers up in trees and skinning them alive. dled kayaks down the Selenge Gol (Selenge
for minerals. Although ecotourism is making inroads, the concept of sustainable development Later, the Russians improved their stand- River) to Sükhbaatar City!
is still relatively unknown. Old hunters lament that wildlife is now more difficult to spot. ing with the locals by developing a variety

If travelling by train to or from Russia, you’ll pass through Selenge. Make a diversion and
of industries. Darkhan and Selenge became
important centres of agriculture, Bulgan be- SELENGE СЭЛЭНГЭ
take in the wondrous Amarbayasgalant Khiid or horse trek by the shores of Khövsgöl Nuur. came home to the Erdenet copper mine, and pop 181,500 (incl Darkhan-Uul) / area 42,800 sq km
Khövsgöl developed a thriving industry of Mongolia’s breadbasket, Selenge is a fertile
These are also attractions for domestic tourists; you may come across a vanload of urban
timber mills, fisheries and wool processing. landscape of rolling wheat fields, apple or-
Mongolians off to see the sights, stopping en route to taste the local airag (fermented mare chards and meandering rivers. Wide-scale
milk) or pick berries in the forests. Climate agriculture has settled many nomads and
In the region around Khövsgöl aimag, the nowadays wood cabins and lumbering trucks
HIGHLIGHTS terrain is mainly taiga (subarctic coniferous far outnumber gers and camel caravans.
forest) of Siberian larch and pine trees, where The relatively well developed infrastruc-
„ Drop a fishing line into Khövsgöl Nuur there’s plenty of rain (often 600mm a year). ture of paved roads, cities and train lines
(p152), and while away an afternoon by Tsagaannuur Snowfall can exceed 2m in some regions dur- means that Selenge sees a steady flow of
Mongolia’s most spectacular alpine lake Khövsgöl
Nuur
ing winter. After winter, the lakes and rivers through traffic, particularly from travel-
„ Ride a horse into the taiga (coniferous forest)
remain frozen until May; travel can be haz- lers heading to and from Russia. The main
Chandman-
around Tsagaannuur in the Darkhad Depres- Öndör ardous at this time as trucks and jeeps can reasons to visit are the majestic but remote
sion for a unique encounter with the indig- Amarbayasgalant fall through the thin ice. Travelling in winter monastery, Amarbayasgalant Khiid, and
Khiid
enous Tsaatan reindeer herders (p160)
Dulaankhaan means faster drive times around the aimag some beautiful scenery.
as vehicles won’t get bogged in the mud. July Darkhan is the major population centre,
„ Wander around the grounds of spectacular
is warm and relatively dry, but this is also although the city is actually part of its own
Amarbayasgalant Khiid (p140), the archi-
the time of the tourist crunch, leaving ger tiny aimag, Darkhan-Uul. The aimag capital,
tectural highlight of the country
(traditional circular felt yurt) camps teeming. Sükhbaatar, is comparatively small, but as a
„ Visit the bow-and-arrow-making workshop September, when the leaves change colour, is border town it remains a viable part of the
in Dulaankhaan (p137), one of the last of its kind in Mongolia visually spectacular. local economy.
„ Journey to Chandman-Öndör (p159), a little-visited region of fish-filled streams, hot springs, In the southeast, the open-pit coal mine at
sacred caves and lush forests Getting There & Away Sharyngol produces about two million tonnes
Selenge aimag is accessible by paved road of coal each year to provide electricity for the
or rail from Ulaanbaatar. A paved road Erdenet mine in Bulgan aimag. Selenge’s big-
„ POPULATION: 448,600 „ AREA: 192,800 SQ KM
now runs as far as Bulgan City. If your gest revenue earner is the Canadian-owned
 134 N O R T H E R N M O N G O L I A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N M O N G O L I A 135

0 100 km
NORTHERN MONGOLIA 0 50 miles

er
Ob Riv
Irkutsk

An
ga
ra
Lake

Ri
Baikal

ve
Mönkh Ulan Ude

r
Saridag
Uul

Gol
Ikh Saya (3491m)
ni Nuruu

gis
Mondy

Ten
Shishged Go
l
Khankh

Kh
Tsagaannuur

e
ven
Darkhad

G ol
Depression
Khuren Khövsgöl
Uul Nuur
(3020m)
Renchinlkhumbe National Park

Nuruu
Khövsgöl
Nuur RUSSIA

ol
Saridag

rG
Uu
Ulaan Uul
Khoridol

l
Go
Eg
iin
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
n
Tsagaan-Uur Uilga
Go
Dayan
l
Khatgal Chandman- Shamanic Derkhiin
Öndör Tepees Agui Naushki
Dayan
Alan Goa Derkh Kyakhta
Monastery
Tushig
ol Bayanzürkh Altanbulag
Sümber Gol ol
rG Ereen rG Sükhbaatar
lte
a

Ze
Ag

Eg
Erdenebulgan Tsagaannuur

iin
Go
Arbulag Zuunburen Shaamar

ol
l
Nuruu
Khövsgöl Teshig Khantain
ol Dulaankhaan
rG Tunel
Gol Anak Ranch
Shava

e Orkhon Eröö
Tsetserleg Tarialan e ng
Mörön Eg Tarvagtain S el ruu
Uushigiin Eg Belcher Nu G
giin Selenge el
Tes Burentogtokh Go

l
n tta
Go l Tsagaan Uul
Uver i
Büre iG
Bulgan on

in
kh ol

G
Tosontsengel
Or

ol
Khutag- Khantai
Ikh Uul Öndör Darkhan Buga

Sha
Sangiin Tomorbulag Selenge Amarbayasgalant nt Gol
lenge Gol Darkhan-Uul

ryn G
Dalai Se Khiid

Gol
Nuur Five Rivers Dulann Gol
rlan

Kharaa Gol
Khaan Khangal
Zuun Sharyngol l Sha

o
Deer Stones Uul Sant

öö
Nuur (2059m) Baruunbüren

Er
Khalzan Rashaant
Sogootyn Uran Uul
Davaa Bayan Agt (1631m) Bugat
Telmen Shine-Ider ol Erdenet Khötöl
Nuur rG Uran-Togoo
Ide
l Tulga Uul Orkhon
Gelenkhuugiin Go Togoo Nature Bulgan Zong Bayangol Züünkharaa
Telmen Tosontsengel Tsetserleg ui Uul City Davaa
Suvarga Soum Reserve
an

Galt (1923m) Orkhontuul Khan Khentii

Kh

Dashchoinkhorlon Seeriyn Adigyn Strictly

Boroo Gol
Ikh-Uul Jargalant Khiid Bugan Khoshoo Tunkhel Protected
Saikhan Area

ol
Khairkhan Orkhon Orkhon Gol

Tuul G
l

Erdenemandal
Go

Jargalant gor Gol

gno
in

Bornuur
Choidogiin So
utu

Ider Tarvagatai Borgio Arkhangai Batsumber

Kh

Khorgo Khishig-
Uul National Uul Öndör Gorkhi-
Park Mogod
Zagastain Tariat Büreg Ugataaltaidam Terelj
Davaa Zaamar Bayanchandmani National Park
Terkhiin Öndör Khangai
Tsagaan Ulaan Khandgait
l Ölziit Mogod Uul Bayantsogt
Nuur
Zavkhan Go (2139m) Khar
Dayan ne Bukh Tsogt Taijiin
Uul h ge Balgas Tsagaan Balgas Terelj
i c ULAANBAATAR
Khangai G Tuu
Ögii Dashinchilen l Gol
Otgon
l

Shar Lun
Go

Tenger Noyon Khangai Battsengel Nuur Bayannuur Nalaikh

Uul(4021m) Bulagiin Khustain
ui

National Park
an

Davaa Tamir Gol l Gurvanbulag National Zuunmod

Kh

Shivert Ögii Nuur Stone Park Altanbulag

Ikh Tamir
ol

Chuluut Kultegin Monuments

tG

Tarn

Khar Monument Töv

Khogno Khan
yan

Bayankhongor Tsetserleg Balgas Natural Reserve

ay Go

Tsenkher
Bu

Öndörshireet
Khashaat Eej Khad
Gurvanbulag Khotont (Mother Rock)
Otgon
l

Bulgan Tsenkheriin Khaluun Erdenesant

Us
 136 S E L E N G E • • S ü k h b a a t a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S E L E N G E • • A l t a n b u l a g 137

Boroo gold mine, which produces 5 tonnes of Station Hotel (x40371; per person T5000) Decent and Moscow (T124,750), but you’ll need a
gold per year, netting US$65 million.
SÜKHBAATAR 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
Russian visa.
rooms are available at this wee hotel adja-
The mighty Selenge Gol starts in the moun- A B cent to the train station.
tains of western Mongolia and flows into Lake Kharaa Hotel (x23876; tw/half-lux/lux T10,000/ ALTANBULAG АЛТАНБУЛАГ
Baikal in Siberia, draining nearly 300,000 sq INFORMATION 16,000/25,000) Close to the town square, this Just 24km northeast of Sükhbaatar is
Internet Café..........................................(see 1)
km of land in both countries. The other great 1 Post Office.............................................(see 1) hotel has remodelled but unexciting rooms. Altanbulag, a small, peaceful border town
river, the Orkhon Gol, meets the Selenge Gol Telecom Office.........................................1 A3 Look for the ‘Hotel Bar’ sign. opposite the Russian city of Khyakhta. Despite
Trade & Development Bank..................... 2 A4
near Sükhbaatar. Zoos Bank................................................3 A3 Voyage Hotel (x23839, 9949 5357; Tsagaan Eregiin its location, the town sees few benefits of
Gudamj; tw/lux T25,000/45,000) Newly built hotel in cross-border trade and many of the buildings
SÜKHBAATAR СҮХБААТАР
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Khutagt Ekh Datsan..................................4 A3 the south of the city with clean rooms and a have been abandoned, looted and left with
x01362 / pop 19,700 / elev 626m SLEEPING
reliable restaurant. Sauna available. only their skeletons intact. The only inspir-
With its hilly backdrop, riverside location Kharaa Hotel............................................5 A3 Bayankhangai (x 22106, 9949 8949; h 9am- ing view is of Khyakhta Cathedral, right across
Railway Station Hotel...............................6 A4
and unhurried pace of life, Sükhbaatar makes Voyage Hotel...........................................7 B5 11pm) Between the market and Kharaa Hotel, the border in Russia. Unless you are crossing
a pleasant stopover for travellers heading Bayankhangai serves some tasty dishes in- the border by road, or desperately want to
EATING
into or out of Russia. The town was founded 2 Bayankhangai...........................................8 A3 cluding moogtei khuurag (mushroom and see the aimag museum, there is no reason to
in the 1940s to facilitate trade between the meat) and sharsan takhia (fried chicken). visit Altanbulag.
TRANSPORT
USSR and Mongolia, and was named after the Taxis & Minivans for Altanbulag & Both Khyakhta in Russia and Altanbulag are
Mongolian general who helped usher in com- Darkhan...............................................9 A4
Getting There & Away of some historical importance to Mongolians.
munism in 1921. Sükhbaatar himself spent In 1915 representatives from Russia, China
time in nearby Altanbulag and Kyakhta where HITCHING
and Mongolia met in Khyakhta to sign a
treaties were drawn up formalising Mongolia’s Because of the regular transport along treaty granting Mongolia limited autonomy.
To Naushki
independent status. There is little reason to (12km) the main road between Ulaanbaatar and At a meeting in Khyakhta in March 1921,
Sükhbaatar, you’ll get a lift pretty easily
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
Town 8
stay, however, unless you want to break up 1 Square
Market the Mongolian People’s Party was formed by
the train journey to/from Russia, you prefer 3
along this road. Mongolian revolutionaries in exile, and the
3 5
travelling on cheaper local trains or you are revolutionary hero Sükhbaatar was named
smuggling goods. MINIVAN & TAXI minister of war.
4
If you have time drop by the Khutagt Ekh Selenge
The road to Ulaanbaatar (311km) through Selenge’s aimag museum is located here in
To Naushki
Datsan temple near the town square. Unusual (12km)
Hotel Darkhan (92km) is well paved, so jeeps are Altanbulag. The museum (admission T2000; h10am-
for a Mongolian monastery, its head lama is Hospital
not necessary. Because of the popularity and 5pm Mon-Fri) contains lots of antiquated commu-
a woman. regularity of the train, there are relatively few nist propaganda and exhibits dating back to
share vehicles to Ulaanbaatar (T8000), but Mongolia’s independence movement of 1921;
Orientation & Information many to Darkhan (T5000, two hours) and relics include some of Sükhbaatar’s personal
Altanbulag (T1500, 20 minutes). These ve-
Ba

Just north of the train station is the centre of 4 Train 6 Border

effects – his boots, gun and even his desk. The
yan

Station Police
9
hicles depart from outside the train station.
ha

town, where you’ll find the main hotel, market curator assured us that Sükhbaatar’s office
Tsa

ni
gaa

2
and town square. was housed in the small red building outside
ud
nE

am

Private moneychangers appear at the station the museum.

reg

TRAIN
j
iin

whenever a train arrives. If you are leaving International trains going to/from Moscow, Minivans run between Sükhbaatar and
Gu
dam

Mongolia try to get rid of all your tögrög – they Irkutsk or Beijing stop at Sükhbaatar for two Altanbulag at various times during the day.
j

are worthless anywhere in Russia (including or more hours while customs and immigra- If there is nothing going you could charter
on the Trans-Mongolian Railway in Russia). tion are completed. This usually takes place a taxi (T6000).
The police station is to the south of town. 7
Police
Station
late at night or very early in the morning. The border is located right at the edge of
The daily market, behind the Selenge Hotel, 5 Grain See p276 and p275 for more information Altanbulag. You cannot cross by foot so you’ll
Elevators
is lively and friendly and, as a border town, about international trains. need to try and hitch a ride with a local or take
well stocked. Direct, local trains travel between any public transport available. The border is
To Altanbulag (24km);
Internet café (x23901; per hr T400; h24hr) To Darkhan (92km);
Darkhan (92km); Ulaanbaatar and Sükhbaatar (T3500/8400 open between 8am to 5pm and you can expect
Ulaanbaatar (311km)
Adjacent to the Telecom office. Ulaanbaatar (311km) for a hard/soft seat), with a stop at Darkhan. delays of several hours. From Kyakhta there
Telecom office (x22385; Tsagaan Eregiin Gudamj; Train 271 departs Ulaanbaatar at 10.30am are daily buses to Novoselenginsk.
h24hr) The post office is also located here. Sleeping & Eating daily, arriving at 7.56pm. The same train de-
Trade & Development Bank (x22407; h9am- Selenge aimag is particularly pleasant for parts for Ulaanbaatar the next morning at DULAANKHAAN ДУЛААНХААН
5pm Mon-Fri) Near the train station. Changes travellers camping. At Sükhbaatar, the best place to try 6.10am. Returning to Ulaanbaatar, you could Forty-seven kilometres south of Sükhbaatar,
cheques, US dollars and euros, and can give cash advances is across the train line and among the fields, also opt for train 264, departing Sükhbaatar this tiny village is worth a stop if you have
on Visa and MasterCard. just west of town. Alternatively, there are great at 9.45pm. your own vehicle. Dulaankhaan is home
Zoos Bank (x23110; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm spots among the hills northeast of the mar- The train station (x40124; h8am-noon, 3-5pm to a bow and arrow workshop (x9913 1491, 9926
Sat) Near the Kharaa Hotel. Also gives cash advance on Visa ket. Sükhbaatar’s main hotel, the Selenge, was & 8-10pm) sells local tickets and also tickets 7291; www.hornbow.mn), one of only three in
and MasterCard. under renovation at the time of research. for Ulan Ude (T17,600), Irkutsk (T34,000) Mongolia. Bows and arrows are made from
 ὈὈὈ
138 S E L E N G E • • D a r k h a n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S E L E N G E • • D a r k h a n 139

ibex and reindeer horn, bamboo and even Zoos Bank (x24173; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri) Opposite 0 1 km
fish guts. Only 30 to 40 sets are crafted every the Telecom office.
DARKHAN 0 0.5 miles

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
year because they take about four months to A B C D
complete. Each set sells for about T180,000. Sights
To Sükhbaatar
(92km) 20
Old Town

In the village, look for the two-storey wood INFORMATION

building, next to the red-and-blue monument. KHARAAGIIN KHIID ХАРААГИЙН ХИЙД Market Golomt Bank................................1 C3
1 Library Internet.............................2 B3
Ask for Boldbaatar. Probably the most interesting sight in 6 Post Office.................................(see 3)

The village is 6km west of the Sükhbaatar– Darkhan is this monastery. Housed in a Train Telecom Office.............................3 B3
Station Trade & Development Bank.........4 B2
pretty log cabin in the old town, it has a

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Darkhan Hwy. Expect to pay about T15,000 Zoos Bank....................................5 C3

for a taxi from Sükhbaatar. There is nowhere host of protector deities and a tree encased
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
to stay in the village so carry on to Sükhbaatar in blue khatag (silk scarves). Until 1989 the Culture Palace............................(see 2)

or Darkhan, or camp nearby. building served as an elementary school. 10

Kharagiin Khiid.............................6 A1
Morin Khuur Statue......................7 B2
4 Museum of Darkhan-Uul.............8 C3
Seated Buddha.............................9 A2
DARKHAN ДАРХАН MUSEUM OF DARKHAN-UUL
This museum (x27910; admission T1000; h9am- 7 SLEEPING

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
x01372 / pop 73,500 2 9
Urjin Sandag Crystal Hotel..............................10 A2
With its vast acres of parkland, sporadic 1pm & 2-7pm) contains a well-laid-out collec- Choilin Khiid Darkhan Hotel............................11 B2

bursts of concrete and languorous street life, tion of archaeological findings, traditional Samdan Choilin Datsan
Jammin Toast Guesthouse..........12 B2

Darkhan is an unassuming blip on the Trans- clothing, religious artefacts and a few obliga- 12 11 EATING

Ar
Russian Asian Kitchen...........................(see 14)
Mongolian Railway. The Soviets created it in tory stuffed animals. Its most valued piece Park

din
Consulate 15 Mongol Brend............................13 B3
the 1960s as an industrial base for the north is the original painting of Lenin meeting Ör
Nomin Supermarket...................14 C3
gö 13 New Texas Pub..................................15 B2
and for a while it worked as a model urban Sükhbaatar, a classic work of myth-making, Park
n Town

cooperative of factory workers, tractor driv- painted by B Tsultem in 1953. The museum Chölö
ö 5 ENTERTAINMENT
Queens Night Club....................16 C3
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
ers, coal miners and government officials. is upstairs in a building on the northern Sports 2
3 Saturn........................................17 C3
Palace 16 17
When the bottom fell out of the economy in side of the shopping square, across from the 3 14 TRANSPORT
1990 everyone lost their jobs and the Russian minibus and taxi stand. 18
Urtuuchin 8 Bus Stand...................................18 B3
Minibus & Taxi Stand.................19 C3
advisors beat a hasty retreat to Moscow. The Hotel
1
19 Minivan Stand............................20 A1
economy has since made small strides, thanks MORIN KHUUR STATUE & SEATED BUDDHA To Ulaanbaatar
to grain production and some requisite coal These two new monuments are across the (219km)

mining at nearby Sharyngol. The city is not road from each other, near the roundabout
actually part of Selenge aimag, but an autono- between the new and old towns. Both are scruffy old standard rooms and slightly bet- Mongol Brend (x27681, 9939 9181; h11am-
mous municipality, Darkhan-Uul. congregating points for locals who hang out ter lux rooms, all with attached bathroom and midnight) A life-size photo of Miss Darkhan
Darkhan is not somewhere you would rush here at sunset. hot water. It has a restaurant, a sauna (T1000) welcomes you to this brew pub on the main
to see, but you may need to stay here while and a billiards room (T7000). It’s located on drag. Steaks and pasta are available and by
you arrange transport to Amarbayasgalant Sleeping the north side of the new town, opposite the evening the basement turns into a nightclub
Khiid. CAMPING Scorpion nightclub. and karaoke bar.
Despite the size of Darkhan, it isn’t hard to Crystal Hotel (x36966; s/d T8000/10,000, s/d half-lux If you are self-catering, the best place to
Orientation get away from the town and find a nearby T12,000/15,000, lux 25,000) Stuck halfway between shop is the Nomin Supermarket, southeast of
Darkhan is spread out. The city is divided secluded spot. Southwest of the train station the new and old towns, this has modern the central park in the new town.
into an ‘old town’ near the train station and a are some empty fields – but get away from amenities and nice bathrooms. Note that the
‘new town’ to the south. Near the central post the drunks who hang around the station. The standard rooms share a bathroom. Entertainment
office in the new town is Darkhan’s pride and fields to the north of the Darkhan Hotel are The train station has a hotel (x42263; r T5000, Locals bust out their moves at the Queens Night
joy: a 16-storey building, one of the tallest in also good. lux T6000) on the top floor. Club (h6pm-midnight) in the centre of the new
the country. town. Saturn, next to Queens, is another club
HOTELS & GUESTHOUSES Eating that has seen some refurbishment.
Information oJammin Toast Guesthouse (x9996 3154; Asian Kitchen (Nomin Supermarket; h9am-9pm) Fast-
Golomt Bank (x23928; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm) It is [email protected]; dm US$5; hMay-Sep; i) food place reminiscent of Ulaanbaatar’s Berlin Getting There & Away
200m west of the taxi stand. Scotsman Dave Russell offers dorm beds in a restaurant. It’s run by a Malaysian and serves BUS
Library Internet (x23205, 9940 9812; per hr T500; comfortable setting with a Scottish-Mongolian up good, non-Mongolian curries. Two buses per day depart at 11am and 4pm for
h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Located theme. It’s a great place to overnight in Texas Pub (x27961; h11am-midnight) Roy Ulaanbaatar (T4500, four hours). They leave
inside the Cultural Palace. Darkhan and Dave can provide logistical tips Rogers could not have designed a better res- from the lot west of the Urtuuchin Hotel.
Telecom office (x23275; h24hr) ATM and post for getting around the area. It’s located next to taurant. This Texan-themed joint, just south
office are also located here. the Kiwi Hotel; look for the sign on the 4th- of the Darkhan Hotel in the new town, has MINIVAN, TAXI & JEEP
Trade & Development Bank (x33713; h9am- floor balcony, or call for directions. an English-language menu with Hungarian Constant demand ensures that shared taxis
3pm & 4-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash, travellers Darkhan Hotel (x20001; s/d T6000/10,000, lux goulash, steaks, salads and pasta plus Chinggis (T8000) and minivans (T6000) regularly do
cheques and gives advances on Visa and MasterCard. T12,000-16,000) This Soviet-era monster has beer on tap. the four-hour run to Ulaanbaatar. Vehicles
 140 S E L E N G E • • A m a r b a y a s g a l a n t K h i i d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels B U L G A N 141

depart from a bus stand just west of the between 1727 and 1737 by the Manchu em- hot showers, a restaurant and free medita-
Urtuuchin Hotel, where you can also get a
AMARBAYASGALANT KHIID peror Yongzheng, and dedicated to the great tion classes. It is operated by the monks of
0 100 m
seat in a van to Erdenet (T7000, three hours). 0 0.1 miles Mongolian Buddhist and sculptor Zanabazar Amarbayasgalant so any money you spend
For Sükhbaatar (T5000, two hours), vans leave A B (see boxed text, p142), whose mummified body here goes towards the continued preservation
from outside the market in the new town. was moved here in 1779. The monastery is in the of the temples.
Darkhan enjoys the privilege of hav- 1
Manchu style, down to the inscriptions, sym- Great Selenge (x011-451 743; www.nomadic-empire
ing a paved road to Ulaanbaatar (219km), metrical layout and imperial colour scheme. tour.mn; GPS: N49° 26.688’, E105° 05.141’; ger with 3 meals
Sükhbaatar (92km) and Erdenet (180km). The communists moseyed in around 1937, US$26) Located 3.5km south of the monastery,
Many guanz (canteens or cheap restaurants) 12 8 9 but ‘only’ destroyed 10 out of the 37 temples this modern ger camp has clean flush toilets
11
along the way sell airag and basic meals. 6 3 22 and statues, possibly because of sympathetic and hot showers. It’s run by Baigal Tour.
For Amarbayasgalant Khiid you’ll have to 18 19 and procrastinating local military comman-
hire your own jeep or taxi at the bus stand near 15
ders. The monastery was extensively restored Getting There & Away
10
the Kharaa Hotel. A round-trip should cost 23 1 between 1975 and 1990 with the help of HITCHING
around T50,000 but you’ll need to bargain. 7 Unesco. These days about 30 monks live in The monastery is not on the way to anywhere
2 the monastery, compared with more than 2000 but a couple of cars a day come here in sum-
20
TRAIN 21 in 1936. mer so you may be able to bum a lift. The
Darkhan is the only train junction in Mongolia: The temples in the monastery are normally cheapest and best way from Ulaanbaatar is to
all northern trains to/from Ulaanbaatar, and 13 14
closed, so you’ll have to ask the monks to find catch a train to Darkhan, take a shared jeep
all trains to/from Erdenet, stop here. The the keys and open them up if you want to see to Khötöl, hitch (which is easy) from there to
domestic ticket office (x42301; h7.30-9.30am, any statues or thangka (scroll paintings). There the turn-off, then hitch another ride (much
2.30-6.30pm & 10.30pm-4.30am) at Darkhan train 17 are around nine temples open to tourists. more difficult) to the monastery.
station is at windows 1 and 2. Window 3 is 4 5 2 To the west of the complex you’ll find eight
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

JEEP

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
reserved for international tickets. Hard-seat new stupas and a meditation centre (you can
carriages are always crowded so consider tak- 3 see it from Amarbayasgalant). It takes about From Ulaanbaatar, travel north to the
ing a soft seat. two hours to hike there. T-intersection for Erdenet (just short of
Travelling to Ulaanbaatar (hard/soft seat The main hall has a life-size statue of Darkhan). Take the Erdenet road for 90km
T2600/6400), a daytime train (272) leaves 16 Rinpoche Gurdava, a lama from Inner and then turn right onto a dirt track; look
Darkhan at 8.33am, arriving in UB about Mongolia who lived in Tibet and Nepal be- for the red sign (GPS: N49° 12.809’, E104°
4pm. An overnighter (264) departs Darkhan fore returning to Mongolia in 1992 and raising 59.128’) that says ‘Amarbayasgalant 35km’.
at 12.05am, arriving at 6am. Other trains leave SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES much of the money for the temple’s restora- Altogether, the journey to/from Ulaanbaatar
Ayush Temple....................................1 B2
in the middle of the night. Bell Tower..........................................2 B3 tion. It’s normally possible to climb up to the takes around six hours. If you don’t have your
The daily five-hour trip between Darkhan Dorje Shugden Temple.......................3 A1
roof for fine views of the valley. own car you could charter one from Darkhan
Drum Tower.......................................4 A3
and Erdenet (hard/soft seat T2100/5300) goes 4 Entrance Temple.................................5 B3 To help with the restoration work, for- for T50,000.
Ger for guests.....................................6 A1
through some lovely countryside, but you’ll eigners are charged an entry fee of T3000.
BULGAN БУЛГАН
Jaryn Khashuur Stupa.........................7 A2
miss it as the train leaves Darkhan at 2.50am. Living Rooms of Bogd Gegeen............8 B1 Ceremonies are usually held twice a day at
Maider (Maitreya) Temple..................9 B1
The daily Ulaanbaatar–Sükhbaatar train Manal Temple..................................10 A2 9am and 4pm.
(271) leaves Darkhan for Sükhbaatar at Monks' Accommodation...................11 A1 Travellers have raved about the scenery of pop 143,600 (incl Orkhon) / area 49,000 sq km
Narkhajid Temple.............................12 A1
5.50pm (hard/soft seat T1200/2400, two Pavilion............................................13 A2 the mountain range Bürengiin Nuruu, north Bulgan’s lack of major tourist sights has kept
hours), or at an ungodly 2am. See p276 and Pavilion.............................................14 B2 of Amarbayasgalant. it off the beaten track. Most visitors to north-
Sakyamuni Buddha Temple...............15 B2
p272 for details about international trains that Screen Wall......................................16 B3 ern Mongolia charge through the aimag en
stop at Darkhan. Temple of Protector Gods.................17
Tomb of 4th Bogd Gegeen...............18
B3
A2
Festivals route to more prolific sights such as Khövsgöl
5 Tomb of Zanabazar..........................19 B2 The most interesting time to make the sojourn Nuur and Amarbayasgalant Khiid, but trav-
Getting Around Tsogchin Dugan (Main Temple).......20
Winter ger for lamas........................21
B2
A2
to Amarbayasgalant Khiid is 9 to 11 August, ellers with a bit of time on their hands can
Darkhan is spread out, so you will probably Yam Temple.....................................22 B1 when the Gongoriin Bombani Hural (prayer cer- find some interesting, rarely visited sights in
Yellow ger........................................23 B2
have to take a taxi or hop in a minivan (T200) emony) is held. As part of the rituals the locals Bulgan, as well as some beautiful scenery that
that connects the new and old towns. hike up to the eight white stupas. Festival-goers makes for nice cycle touring.
usually camp in the fields near the monastery – The aimag is rich in natural resources; it’s
AMARBAYASGALANT KHIID worth visiting on the way to/from Khövsgöl like a Buddhist version of Woodstock. home to the Erdenet copper mine, one of the
АМАРБАЯСГАЛАНТ ХИЙД Nuur, or other areas in northern or west- largest of its kind anywhere, as well as agricul-
The star attraction of Selenge aimag, this ern Mongolia. Otherwise, you are better off Sleeping tural areas and a small-scale timber industry.
monastery is considered to be one of the incorporating the monastery into a three- There are excellent camping spots all around The ethnic groups comprise Khalkh, Buriat
top three Buddhist institutions in Mongolia or four-day countryside trip to take in the Amarbayasgalant Khiid. and Russian people.
(along with Erdene Zuu in Kharkhorin and surrounding scenery. Amarbayasgalant Meditation Centre (x011- A small mountain range, the Bürengiin
Gandan in Ulaanbaatar) and the country’s Amarbayasgalant Khiid (www.amarbayasgalant.org; 322 529; per person US$10) Located 300m west of Nuruu, bisects the aimag, and though it only
most intact architectural complex. It is well GPS: N49° 28.648’, E105° 05.122’) was originally built the monastery, this camp has flush toilets, reaches a maximum altitude of 2058m, it
 ὈὈὈ
142 B U L G A N • • E r d e n e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B U L G A N • • E r d e n e t 143

provides plenty of lush habitat for wild ani- wealthy, so the facilities are the best outside
mals and livestock. A few adventurous travel- of Ulaanbaatar. Up to one-third of the popu-
ERDENET 0
0
800 m
0.5 miles

ὈὈ
lers have seen this spectacular landscape while lation of Erdenet was Russian during com- A Hospital B C D
floating down the broad Selenge Gol on a raft, munist times, though now only about 1000 Fields

although to do such a trip you’d need to be Russians still work as technical advisers at mj
da
completely self-sufficient. In the south of the the mine. You’ll hear plenty of Russian on 1 vii
n Gu
ja
aimag are two unique historical sights, Tsogt the streets and will find restaurant menus INFORMATION

ar
s
Golomt Bank............................1 B2

ag
Taijiin Tsagaan Balgas and Khar Bukh Balgas, featuring peroshki (meat-filled fried pastry)

M
4 Nomin Töv Internet Café.........2 A2
Gandan
Shadurviin Post Office.............................(see 3)
which are both geographically more in line rather than buuz (steamed mutton dump- Khiid Telecom Office........................3 B2
with sights found in central Mongolia. lings). These days, you are just as likely to

Na
To Carpet Factory (2km);

tsa
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
This section includes the small aimag of bump into a pair of clean-cut Mormons, who Train Station (8km)

gd
Russian 15
Friendship Monument..............4 C1

orji
Consulate
Orkhon, which contains the city of Erdenet. have set up a large base here. 18

in
Marx Mural..............................5 B2

Gu
Police 5 7 Mining Museum......................6 A2
This aimag was formed in 1994 after being With good road and rail connections, it’s

da
Station
12 Museum of Orhon Aimag........7 B2

m
3

j
previously run as a federal municipality under likely that you’ll eventually find yourself 1
Sports Palace...........................8 A2

the capital, Ulaanbaatar. passing through Erdenet. Such a feat was less 2 Park

Otg
10 SLEEPING
Culture
likely under communism – back then, the

onb
9 Palace 14 Sansar Hotel............................9 A2
2 mj
ERDENET ЭРДЭНЭТ Selenge Hotel.........................10 B2

ileg
6 uda
USSR preferred to keep the city a secret and ata
r G Sonor Khairkhan....................11 A3

iin G
To Copper Mine

Tu
hba
x01352 / pop 73,450 on most old maps Erdenet was deliberately Square
Sük (5.5km);

rik

uda
Darkhan (180km)

ov
17 EATING
In the autonomous municipality of Orkhon, marked incorrectly.

m
G
8 Art Café.................................12 B2

j
ud
and not technically part of Bulgan aimag,

am
Casablanca Bar &
Stadium

j
Restaurant.......................(see 14)
Erdenet is a little slice of Russia in Mongolia. Orientation 11
To Nomin Shop 13 Daily Market..........................13 A3
The reason for Erdenet’s existence is the cop- Erdenet is a sprawling city, though every- (160m);
Saturn Internet SHOPPING
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
per mine, which employs about 8000 people thing you will need is along the main street, Café (180m) 16
Uilchilgeenii Töv.....................14 B2
and is the lifeblood of the city. Sükhbaatar Gudamj. The train station is in- 3 TRANSPORT
Erdenet, Mongolia’s second-largest city, conveniently located more than 9km east of Bus Stand...............................15 B2
Jeep & Minivan Stand............16 A3
is modern (built in 1974) and comparatively the centre. To Bulgan (55km) Taxi Stand.............................17 A2
Tsag Train Ticket Office.................18 B2
aan Chuluut Gol

ZANABAZAR: THE MICHELANGELO OF THE STEPPES

The life of the great Zanabazar, artist, statesman and Living Buddha, was not without controversy. Information Despite the destruction of the mountain,
One day, while in his workshop, a group of aristocrats arrived to chastise him for living with an Golomt Bank (x25200; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, the long-term environmental effects aren’t
18-year-old girl, which went against his monastic vows. Zanabazar’s female disciple, the so-called 9am-5.30pm Sat & Sun) Changes US dollars and euros and as bad as the gold mines in nearby Zaamar,
Girl Prince, who was deeply offended by the men, appeared from the workshop holding a lump gives cash against Visa and MasterCard. where rivers are being polluted.
of molten bronze in her bare hands. She proceeded to fashion the hot metal into a beautiful Nomin Töv Internet Café (x20922; per hr T400; The mine accounts for around 40% of
sculpture before their eyes, an act that had them begging for forgiveness. h10am-10pm) Small internet café on the main road. Mongolia’s hard-currency earnings, pro-
Although some of Zanabazar’s life seems pulled from the pages of a fairy tale, he was in fact a Saturn Internet Café (x9911 8277; Sükhbaatar ducing some 25 million tonnes of copper/
real man, and today is considered one of the greatest Renaissance artists in all of Asia. He was born Gudamj; per hr T500; h9am-midnight) Has 40 computers. molybdenum ore per annum. Thanks to sky-
in 1635 and at the tender age of three was deemed to be a possible gegeen (saint), so when he Telecom office (x27427; cnr Sükhbaatar Gudamj & rocketing copper prices the mine is now prof-
turned 14 he was sent to Tibet to study Buddhism under the Dalai Lama. He was also proclaimed Natsagorjiin Gudamj; h24hr) ATM and post office are also itable and it earns between US$150 million
the reincarnation of the Jonangpa line of Tibetan Buddhism and became the first Bogd Gegeen located here. and US$200 million in profit annually. Nearly
(reincarnated Buddhist leader of Mongolia). He is also known in Mongolia as Öndür Gegeen. all the copper is sent to China and some bits of
When he returned from his studies in Tibet, the artist-lama kick-started a Mongolian artistic Sights it may be inside your mobile phone.
renaissance and become Mongolia’s greatest sculptor. In his spare time he reputedly invented COPPER MINE The mine is worth a visit if you’ve never
the soyombo, the national symbol of Mongolia, and reformed the Mongolian script. Zanabazar The open-cut mine (www.emc.erdnet.mn), easily visited one like this before. You’ll need to
was also a political figure and his struggle with the Zungar leader Galdan led to Mongolia’s seen to the north of the city, is one of the show your passport to the guard at the gate.
submission to the Manchus in 1691. 10-largest copper mines in the world. It is No-one seems to mind if you look around
Zanabazar died in Beijing in 1723. His body was taken to Urga (modern Ulaanbaatar) and later also a tremendous burden on the country’s on your own, but it would be wise to check
entombed in a stupa in Amarbayasgalant Khiid. You will see many of Zanabazar’s creations in infrastructure and consumes nearly 50% of in at the administration building, up the hill
monasteries and museums in Mongolia, and there is a fine collection of his art (particularly his Mongolia’s electricity. from the guard station, on the left. A taxi to
Tara and Dhyani Buddha statues) in the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts in Ulaanbaatar. You can Open-cut mining is more damaging the mine and back from the town centre costs
recognise images of Zanabazar by his bald, round head, the dorje (thunderbolt symbol) he holds to the environment but infinitely safer about T4000, including waiting time.
in his right hand and the bell in his left hand. than digging mine shafts below the sur-
For more on Zanabazar, look for the Guidebook to Locales Connected with the Life of Zanabazar, face. Since this particular mountain is al- FRIENDSHIP MONUMENT
by Don Croner. most solid copper and molybdenum ore, This communist monument, about 200m
this is the only practical way to reach it. northeast of the Selenge Hotel, is worth a
 144 B U L G A N • • E r d e n e t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com B U L G A N • • B u l g a n C i t y 145

Casablanca Bar & Restaurant (x28546; h9am- For shared vehicles to Mörön (T20,000, 10
DOWN ON THE RANCH midnight) Various Russian and Mongolian dishes hours), Bulgan (T3500, one hour), Tsetserleg
Anak Ranch (x011-316 181, 9909 9762; www.anakranch.com) is a working ranch where guests can and beers are served to customers sitting in (T20,000, seven hours) and Uliastai (T40,000,
get their hands dirty doing farm work. You can milk cows, herd the sheep, make cheese and huge leather couches. Try the azu, a fried 20 hours), the best place to look is at the mar-
lasso a half-wild horse or two. There is also plenty of time to relax, enjoy a barbecue, hike and meat and veggie dish inspired by Chinese ket (zakh). The best place to look for a vehicle
fish. Prices are US$39 all-inclusive and a portion of the proceeds goes to improving conditions cooking. It’s located in the department store to Ulaanbaatar is outside the Sports Palace.
at Ulaanbaatar’s dungeonlike Gants-Hudag prison. The ranch is close to the town of Orkhon, (Uilchilgeenii Töv). The roads from Erdenet to Darkhan
which you can easily access by train from Ulaanbaatar; there are daily trains in both directions The daily market behind the Sports Palace is (180km) and to Bulgan City (55km) are
(from Ulaanbaatar, trains depart at 7.35pm). If you contact the ranch ahead of time someone surprisingly small and scrappy, though there’s both paved.
will meet you at the station with horses. a decent selection of (nonrefrigerated) dairy
products here. Most locals buy their food from TRAIN
the shops along the main drag. Train 273 departs Ulaanbaatar for Erdenet
quick look. On the way from the town centre best places to try are north of the Friendship at 7pm, arriving 11 hours later. It costs
you pass a fine Marx mural and a picture of Monument, or south of the stadium, over the Shopping T3600/9000 for a hard seat/soft-seat sleeper.
Lenin bolted to the wall. A little further to other side of Tsagaan Chuluut Gol and among Carpet Factory (x20111; h8-11am & 1-5pm) If a The sleeper is definitely worth the extra tö-
the east, the ovoo (a shamanistic collection of the pretty foothills. couple of tonnes of copper is a bit inconven- grög: the hard-seat carriages are packed to the
stones, wood or other offerings) is impres- ient to carry around, a carpet would make a roof. The train returns to Ulaanbaatar from
sive if you haven’t seen too many before. The HOTELS fine souvenir. The city’s carpet factory pro- Erdenet at the same time (7pm). In summer a
hills north of the monument and south of the Erdenet has a reasonable selection of hotels duces more than a million square metres every weekend train to/from Ulaanbaatar is added,
stadium are great for short hikes. but no guesthouse or ger camp. year using machinery from the former East though the schedule is a little unreliable, so
Selenge Hotel (x27359; r T6000-20,000, half- Germany. The factory is open year-round but check for times at the station.
MINING MUSEUM lux T24,000, lux T30,000) This classic Soviet-style production is low in summer (June to August) To Darkhan (5½ hours), the train
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
This Soviet-built museum (x9935 0888; admission hotel has large, clean rooms with private bath- when supplies of wool are scarce. If you ask costs T2100/5300 for a hard/soft seat. For
T1000; h8am-6pm Wed-Sun) belongs to the copper- rooms. Renovations in some rooms include the guard it may be possible to take a tour of Sükhbaatar in Selenge aimag, change trains
mining company, Erdenet Concern. It’s on fresh wallpaper, carpeting and beds, although the entire operation. The factory is just off in Darkhan.
the 2nd floor of the Culture Palace on the a few cheaper, unrenovated rooms have the the main road to the train station, about 2km You can buy tickets at the train station,
town square, and is worth a look. same old lumpy beds and musty furnishings. from the Friendship Monument. but it’s better to queue on the day of, or be-
It’s on the main road. Nomin Shop (x21735; h9am-9pm) You can also fore, departure at the train ticket office (x22505;
MUSEUM OF ORKHON AIMAG Sonor Khairkhan (x28120; d 13,000, half-lux 20,000, buy carpets and rugs here, about 500m west of h9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm) in the northeast end
Opened in 1983 and hidden in a concrete lux T28,000) Budget travellers after good value the Sports Palace. A huge Chinggis Khaan wall of town. Look for the small train sign on the
complex on the right side of the Marx mural, should head for this place – it has attractive, carpet costs from T90,000 and smaller, towel- side of an apartment block, opposite the local
this small museum (admission T1000; h9am-1pm clean rooms, an excellent hot-water supply, sized carpets are around T5000 to T20,000. bus stand.
& 2-6pm) includes a few oddities including a phone, TV and the price includes breakfast For general goods (electronics, food and Buses meet arriving trains, but the stam-
model of the copper mine (you can see it in in the room served promptly at 7.30am. It’s clothing) the best place to shop is Uilchilgeenii pede of passengers quickly fills these to over-
‘day’ or ‘night’) and a model of a modern near the daily market. Töv (Yйлчилгээний Төв), the department flowing. It’s best to get off the train as soon as
ger with a TV inside. Look out for the two- Sansar Hotel (x27927; r T15,000, half-lux T36,000, store opposite the Telecom office. you can and find a taxi (about T4000) before
headed calf, which hopefully is no indica- lux T40,000) This new hotel is the best in town, the crush starts.
tion of what the mine is doing to the local with clean rooms and modern bathrooms. It Getting There & Away It is more sedate going by bus to the train
water supply. also sports one of the best restaurants around. Travellers often bypass Erdenet and go straight station. Buses (T300), cars (T500 per person)
It’s on the street running northwest of the from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön via Bulgan. If you and taxis (T5000) leave from the local bus
Activities main square. have the time, and want a little luxury, take stand, opposite the train ticket office.
If you have some time to kill, check out the the sleeper train from Ulaanbaatar to Erdenet
Sports Palace (x73436; Sükhbaatar Gudamj; h8am- Eating and catch a shared vehicle to Mörön; these BULGAN CITY БУЛГАН
9pm). You can take a hot shower (T1000) or The restaurant in the Sansar Hotel offers a wait at the taxi stand outside the Sports Palace. x01342 / pop 11,000 / elev 1208m
sauna (T2000 per hour), watch some wrestling better-than-average selection of dishes, in- Don’t make the mistake of first going to Bulgan Bulgan is one of Mongolia’s prettiest aimag
or go ice-skating in winter at the stadium at cluding stir-fried mushrooms with lamb and then trying to hitch to Mörön. There are capitals. There is a grassy pine-clad park in
the back. There’s an indoor pool (T2000), (T3000), fried chicken (T4000) or, for the comparatively few cars heading to Mörön the middle of town and a lazy main street
open weekdays only, but the staff may make adventurous, horse meat (T2600). from Bulgan. where you are just as likely to see a horseman
life difficult by insisting on a medical exami- Art Café (x27316; h10am-midnight) A progres- as you are a passing vehicle. With Erdenet so
nation before they let you swim. sive café and bar on the main road with very BUS, MINIVAN & JEEP close by, the town has never had a chance
orange interior, couches and modern art on Two daily buses depart from Erdenet’s bus to develop much – there are only a couple
Sleeping the walls. A big-screen TV is tuned to local stand to Ulaanbaatar’s Dragon bus stand of small hotels and restaurants and very few
CAMPING news. Food consists of standard Mongolian (T8000, seven hours, 371km) at noon and jeeps. As a quiet backwater it’s not a bad place
Although the city is comparatively large, it meat-and-potato dishes and a few Russian 2pm. Going the other way they depart Dragon to spend a night if you are travelling between
is still possible to camp near Erdenet. The soups and salads. at the same times. Mörön and Ulaanbaatar.
 146 B U L G A N • • B u l g a n C i t y lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels B U L G A N • • B u l g a n C i t y 147

BULGAN CITY 0
0 0.5 miles
1 km Sleeping Ping-Pong table upstairs it has more character
CAMPING than most places in the countryside. The stand-

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
A B C D The best place to pitch your tent is over the ard rooms are depressing but the lux rooms
10
To Petrol Station (500m); Khangai Discovery (10km);
Anag Tur Camp (13km); Mörön (353km) INFORMATION southern side of the river, the Achuut Gol; go include cable TV and hot-water shower –
1
Bathhouse..........................................1 A1 past the market and find a discreet spot. If you good value for T9000.
Internet Café....................................(see 3)
1
Chin Van Khan
Dorj Statue
Mongol Shuudan Bank........................2 B1 have your own transport, consider camping oKhantai Hotel (x22964; s/d T7000/14,000)
Post Office.......................................(see 3)
a few kilometres north of town, along the This small B&B offers six spotless double
Telecom Office...................................3 B2
7 road to Mörön. rooms, one with a gorgeous balcony over-

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
4 8 To Erdenet
(55km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES looking the park. The bathroom and shower
Aimag Museum..................................4 A1
2
Ethnography Museum......................(see 4) GER CAMPS are both downstairs and there is 24-hour hot
5
6
Park
9
SLEEPING Khangai Discovery (x9979 8810, 8876 6894; GPS: water. The friendly owner sometimes has
Police
3
Bulgan Hotel......................................5 A2 N48° 50.608’, E103° 25.427’; with/without food US$30/15) breakfast available for an extra cost; she can
Station
Ac
hu
Khantai Hotel.....................................6 A2
Venera Hotel......................................7 A1 Located 10km north of Bulgan, this pretty offer eggs, bread and rice milk. Sometimes,
ut
Aimag
Grain
Elevator ger camp is nestled below some forested hills. in late summer, she adds blueberries
EATING
2 Monument
Petrol Guanz.................................................8 B1 The camp includes about 20 gers and some A- and cream to the menu.
Go
l
Station Venera.............................................(see 7)
frame huts. Horse riding is available (US$10). Venera Hotel (x9960 4099, 9908 0944; r T10,000)
To Khatanbaatar
Magsarjav To Museum of the West Road TRANSPORT About 3km further up the valley is run-down Rooms here are clean and new but the size of
Mausoleum
(400m)
Military Unit (1km);
Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid (2.5km);
Jeep & Bus Stop..................................9 B2
Anag Tur camp. a walk-in closet. On the main road.
Naadam Truck Stop for Mörön.......................10 A1
Ulaanbaatar (318km) Stadium

HOTELS Eating
Information Sakyamuni, and features a painting of the old Bulgan Hotel (x22811; per person T3500-9000) This The restaurant scene in Bulgan is pretty dire.
Bathhouse (admission T400; h9am-6pm Thu-Mon) monastery layout. About 30 monks now reside charmingly run-down Soviet hotel is in a There are a few hole-in-the-wall guanz on the
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
Behind the pink government building. there. The monastery is about 2.5km south- peaceful location overlooking the park. With main street, and in the daytime the hotels can
Internet café (x24024; per hr T690; h9am-6pm west of Bulgan City and is hidden behind its decaying moose head on the wall and a usually scrape something together.
Mon-Fri) In the same building as Telecom. some hills. The run-down pavilion next to the
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x22169) Exchanges US temple, called Divajin, was built in 1876.
dollars and will give a cash advance on Visa. NOMADS TO NINJAS
Telecom office (x24117; h24hr) In the middle of KHATANBAATAR MAGSARJAV Miners indulging in Mongolia’s great new gold rush are turning verdant plains and pure rivers
the main drag, about 150m southeast of the jeep stand. MAUSOLEUM ХАТАНБААТАР inside out in search of buried fortunes. But for once, it’s not just the megacorporations from
The post office is also located here. МАГСАРЖАВЫН БУНХАН Ulaanbaatar who are to blame, it’s the Ninjas.
Located 1km southwest of the Bulgan Hotel, When severe winters at the beginning of the millennium wiped out entire herds and family
Sights across the stream and at the top of a hill, this fortunes, many impoverished nomads turned to illegal gold mining in Bulgan, Töv and Selenge
MUSEUMS curious blue building looks like a concrete aimags. The green, shell-like buckets strapped to their backs, coupled with their covert, night-time
The Aimag Museum (x22589; admission T1000; ger but is actually a mausoleum in the shape operations, earned them the moniker ‘Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles’ or Ninjas for short.
h9am-6pm), on the main street, has some in- of a hat. It allegedly contains the remains of The Ninjas, who often pan what larger mining operations dredge from the flooded plains,
formation on obscure sights in the aimag; a Khatanbaatar Magsarjav, a key figure in the attracted interest from businesspeople who sold them food and supplies. Soon ‘Ninja ger (yurt)
display on J Gurragchaa, Mongolia’s first man 1911 Revolution, who helped to liberate the boomtowns’ developed, each with ger-butchers, ger-shops, ger-karaoke bars, ger-sega parlours
in space; and some interesting old photos. city of Khovd from Chinese rule. There are and ger-goldsmiths. Police have tried, often vainly, to break up the settlements, but the Ninjas
Next door, the Ethnography Museum (Ugsaatny some murals of battle scenes inside, but to return in larger numbers.
Muzei; admission T1000; h9am-6pm) has a few in- see them you’ll need to get the keys from the The Ninjas, who number more than 100,000, pose a serious threat to the environment and
teresting exhibits, such as ancient surgical caretaker. Ask at the Aimag Museum. themselves. Unlike the licensed mining companies, they don’t clean up after themselves; their
instruments, airag churners and saddles. work sites are often littered with discarded batteries and open pits. Mercury and cyanide, used
MUSEUM OF THE WEST ROAD MILITARY to separate gold from the rock, add more problems. Health workers report that miners who use
DASHCHOINKHORLON KHIID UNIT БАРУУН ЗАМЫН ТУСГАЙ АНГИЙН these methods have levels of mercury in their urine that are five to six times the safe limit.
ДАШЧОЙНХОРЛОН ХИЙД ШТАФ Ninjas account for an incredible US$140 million in gold exports (although official bank figures
Like most monasteries in Mongolia, this one The West Road Military Unit was a key force say US$40 million). They receive US$500 per troy ounce, completely illegal and untaxed. Most
(built in 1992) replaced the original monas- in freeing Mongolia from White Russian rule Ninjas earn US$16 to US$24 per day. This kind of money, 10 times that of other rural salaries,
tery, Bangiin Khuree, which was destroyed in 1921. Its history is described in this small has attracted more than out-of-work nomads. They’ve been joined by pensioners, redundant
in 1937. About 1000 monks lived and wor- museum (x9996 3472; admission T1000; h9am-6pm), farm workers and poorly paid civil servants. Students who come in summer are able to finance
shipped at Bangiin Khuree before they were 2.5km south of Bulgan. The building itself their entire university education.
arrested and, presumably, executed. The re- dates from 1668 and was used as a shop until But this is dangerous business – a couple dozen Ninjas are buried alive in mine shafts each
mains of several stupas from the old monas- being transformed into a military post in 1921. year. Recognising that the Ninjas won’t go away, the government has considered ways to legalise
tery complex can be seen nearby. Choibalsan and Khatanbaatar Magsarjav both their activities, protect their health and clean up their mess, if for no other reason than to tax
The modern monastery (GPS: N48° 47.821’, E103° stayed here during Mongolia’s military cam- their cache, which is mostly smuggled to China.
30.687’) contains statues of Tsongkhapa and paigns of the early 20th century.
 148 K H Ö V S G Ö L lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • M ö r ö n 149

Venera (x9908 0944; meals T1500-2500; h10am- About 60km west of Bulgan City is the ex-
midnight) The nicest restaurant in Bulgan is in tinct volcano of Uran Uul (GPS: N48° 59.855’, E102° THE REINDEER HERDERS
the hotel of the same name. It serves up de- 44.003’) and nearby Togoo Uul, part of the Not far from Khövsgöl Nuur live the Tsaatan (literally ‘Reindeer People’). Their entire existence is
cent Mongolian dishes, although promises of 1600-hectare Uran-Togoo Tulga Uul Nature based around their herds of reindeer, which provide milk, skins for clothes, antlers for carving
Korean meals are empty. Reserve. It’s a decent place to camp if you are and medicine, transport and, occasionally, meat.
headed to/from Khövsgöl aimag. The Tsaatan are part of the Tuvan ethnic group, which inhabits the Tuvan Republic of Russia.
Getting There & Away There are only about 300 Tsaatan in total, spread over 100,000 sq km of northern Mongolian
At the time of research there were no flights DASHINCHILEN ДАШИНЧИЛЭН taiga landscape. They are truly nomadic, often moving their small encampments (ail) every two
to Bulgan and there is little prospect these will There are a couple of minor monuments or three weeks, looking for special types of grass and lichen loved by the reindeer (of which there
resume in the near future. in Dashinchilen sum (district), in the south around 700 in total). The Tsaatan do not use gers, but prefer orts, similar to Native American
of the aimag, which might be of interest if tepees, traditionally made from birch bark, but now from store-bought canvas. The Tsaatan are
HITCHING you are travelling between Ulaanbaatar and strong practitioners of shamanism.
As most tourist traffic between Ulaanbaatar Tsetserleg, via Ögii Nuur. Visiting the Tsaatan is difficult and exhausting. The climate is exceedingly harsh, the area is
and Mörön goes via Erdenet, there is not too On the western side of the Tuul Gol, about prone to insects, the terrain is rough and mountainous, and it’s easy to get lost without a good
much traffic going through Bulgan, but if 35km northeast of Dashinchilen, are the impres- local guide. Plan to be self-sufficient with a quality sleeping bag, food and waterproof tents.
you ask around the jeep stand or the petrol sive ruins of Tsogt Taijiin Tsagaan Balgas (GPS: N48° Irresponsible tourism, research and evangelical activities have put the Tsaatan culture and
station, 500m northwest of town, something 01.422’, E104° 21.091’), a 17th-century fort that was their reindeer at risk. Tourist dollars have already lured Tsaatan members down to Khövsgöl
will turn up. the home of the mother of Prince Tsogt, a 17th- Nuur, an inhospitable elevation for their sensitive reindeer (see boxed text, p155). Others have
century poet who fought against Chinese rule. been subjected to bible-thumping sessions and Tarzan films shown by Korean missionaries. It’s
BUS, MINIVAN & JEEP There is a stone stele nearby. The ruins are hard estimated that 80% of their food comes as handouts from NGOs and tourists, which has made
A bus departs Bulgan for Ulaanbaatar (T7900, to find without a GPS so ask in Dashinchilen them considerably reliant on outsiders. If you are intent on making the trip, read up about
eight hours) on Tuesday, Thursday and and keep asking at gers en route. permits (p160).
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
Saturday. When there is demand, minivans About 12km west of the sum capital, the
and jeeps go between Bulgan and Ulaanbaatar ruined Khar Bukh Balgas (Khar Bakhin Fortress; GPS:
(T10,000, eight hours), but most people take a N47° 53.198’, E103° 53.513’) is worth exploring manism and you may be fortunate enough such as Tsagaannuur, although it prefers that this be done
minivan to Erdenet (T3500, one hour, 55km) and easy to reach as it’s just a few kilo- to see a shaman ceremony. in Ulaanbaatar. Located opposite the Ider restaurant.
and then take the overnight train. metres north of the main road. The fortress, The main geographic feature of the province, Exchange Centre (x9938 8858; Peace St; h9am-
Vehicles to Mörön (or anywhere else) are inhabited by the Kitan from 917 to 1120, is as well as its major tourist destination, is enor- 6pm Mon-Fri) Located upstairs of the Khadgalamjiin Bank,
very rare as these tend to leave from Erdenet. sometimes known as Kitan Balgas. A small mous Khövsgöl Nuur. Most travellers fail to ex- it will change US dollars and euros.
Usually on Monday a postal truck goes to museum nearby is unlocked by a caretaker plore areas beyond the lake and this is a shame; Internet café (x24706; per hr T700; h9am-11pm
Khutag-Öndör (T8000, four hours), but check when visitors arrive. the rest of the aimag has much to offer. The Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) Attached to the Telecom
details as the day is subject to change. Jeeps Darkhad valley, Chandman-Öndör and the office.
hang around the Önö Mandal Bar, northeast
of the post office. You could charter one for KHÖVSGÖL south all make fine destinations, with plenty
of opportunities for fishing, hiking and cycle
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x22616) About 200m east
of the Telecom office, this bank changes money and gives
about T400 to T500 per kilometre.
There are two routes between Ulaanbaatar ХӨВСГӨЛ touring. Note that if you want to fish anywhere
but Khövsgöl Nuur you will need a permit
cash advances on Visa.
Orgil Bathhouse (x22018; per person T1500;
and Bulgan City; the rougher but more direct pop 123,500 / area 101,000 sq km from the Ministry of Nature in Ulaanbaatar. As h8am-midnight) On the east side of the market, this is
southern route (318km) via Dashinchilen, Tourist brochures tout it as the Switzerland these can be hard to get, consider hooking up the newest bathhouse in town.
or the paved northern route (467km) via of Mongolia, and this is no idle boast. with a licensed and responsible tour operator, Telecom office (x21034; h24hr) Opposite the town
Darkhan and Erdenet. If you want to visit Khövsgöl is a land of thick forests, rushing a list of which can be found on p58. square. The post office is also located here.
Amarbayasgalant Khiid, the northern route rivers, sparkling lakes and rugged moun- Tourist Information Centre (x9938 7009; hovsgul
is the way to go. tains. It’s Mongolia’s most beautiful aimag MÖRÖN МӨРӨН [email protected]; Centre St; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
Bulgan City is 248km from Darkhan and and seemingly every river bend or lake cove x01382 / pop 36,100 / elev 1283m Supplies maps and books for the region and can give some
353km from Mörön. offers new and wonderful surprises. It does For such a beautiful province, Khövsgöl has basic tips on transport and accommodation. A tourist kiosk
rain a lot during summer, but this only adds a rather disappointing capital. Mörön (pro- (x9938 9564) at the airport opens when a plane arrives.
AROUND BULGAN to the scenery: rainbows hang over meadows nounced ‘mu-roon’) sprawls over the north
There are a couple of obscure historical dotted with white gers and grazing horses bank of the Delgermörön Gol, a treeless land- Sights
monuments around Bulgan. About 20km and yaks. scape that serves its purpose as an administra- MUSEUM
south of Bulgan, just north of Orkhon vil- While the Khalkh dominate the south, tive centre. The town has few sights and most Given the variety of wildlife in the aimag,
lage, are seven standing deer stones, so called there are also scattered populations of travellers only use the place to break up a stuffed animals are, not surprisingly, the
because the stones are carved with reindeer Buriat, Uriankhai, Khotgoid and Darkhad journey to and from regions to the north. main feature of the museum (x9938 6815; ad-
and other animals. The stones, known as people. The Tsaatan, who live in the taiga mission T2000; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri). There’s a large
Seeriyn Adigyn Bugan Khoshoo (GPS: N48° 38.537’, in the far north of the aimag, herd reindeer Information tusk from a woolly mammoth, but you won’t
E103° 32.735’), mark what are thought to be and live in tepees resembling those of Native Border Guard office (x24136, 24662; h9am-6pm see one of those in the flesh – they haven’t
Neolithic grave sites. Americans. The north is a stronghold of sha- Mon-Fri) Might be able to issue permits for border towns inhabited this region for more than 40,000
 150 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • M ö r ö n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H Ö V S G Ö L • • M ö r ö n 151

0 500 m GUESTHOUSES oDul (x22206; mains T2500-3500; h9am-

MÖRÖN 0 0.3 miles
Bata Guesthouse (x9138 7080; bata_guesthouse@ midnight) Located in the hotel of the same name,
A B C D yahoo.com; GPS: N49° 39.053’, E100° 10.018’; per person incl the Dul is hardly descriptive of what this place
INFORMATION SLEEPING DRINKING breakfast T4000) This hashaa guesthouse (basically has to offer. If the staff can get your order cor-
Border Guard Office.........................1 C2
Exchange Centre..............................2 B3
Dul Hotel.........................................8
Dul Juulchin.....................................9
C2
A2
Chinggis Bar...................................15 B3
Khos Torkh.....................................16 C3
a fenced-in yard) is a 20-minute walk from the rect (a long shot at best) you can enjoy excel-
1
Internet Café..................................(see 4) Gan Oyu Guesthouse.....................10 C2 centre, 400m past the market. Turn right at lent pizza, roast beef, a taco salad or a Chinese
Mongol Shuudan Bank.................(see 18) Ider Hotel ......................................11 C2 SHOPPING
Police...............................................3 C2 Turt Hotel.......................................12 B2 Antique Souvenir House.................17 C2
the water pump house and walk for another dish. Round off your meal with an outstand-
Post Office.....................................(see 4) 150m; it’s on the left. Look out for the ‘Bata ing cinnamon roll or apple pie. Vegetarians
Telecom Office.................................4 B3 EATING TRANSPORT
Tourist Information Centre...............5 C3 Dul.................................................(see 8) Aero Mongolia.............................(see 18)
Guesthouse’ sign. Locals know the address should find a soup or salad to their liking. All
Jaragalan Café................................13 B2 EZ Nis.............................................(see 8) as ‘5-8-4’. The owner, Bata, speaks English these delights are enjoyed on comfy sofas in a
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tes Supermarket............................14 A2 MIAT..............................................18 B3
Danzandarjaa Khiid..........................6 A2 and can help arrange transport around the clean, bright atmosphere.
Museum...........................................7 B3 To Khatgal
To Market (800m);
Orgil Bathhouse (1km); aimag. Laundry service and hot showers Khos Torkh (x24016; h10am-7pm) Easily spot-
(101km)
To Airport (4km); Jeep Stand (1.1km);
Bata Guesthouse (1.4km)
are available. ted, this local watering hole features two giant
Uushigiin Uver (20km);
Harganat (27km); Baigal Guesthouse (x9938 8408; baigal_999@chin beer barrels outside its entrance. The local
Tosontsengel (237km) 11
2 ggis.com; GPS: N49° 38.176’, E100° 10.798’; per person T4000, drink of choice is Kvas, a brew made from
1
9 To Minivan Stand for
Ulaanbaatar (300m)
hot shower T1000) A similar option to the Bata, fermented rye bread. The alcohol content is
3
about 800m past the wrestling stadium. The so low (1%) that you’d need to drink a few
price includes a breakfast of toast, bread, jam gallons of the stuff to feel any of its effects.
6
14
13
12 10 8
17
and eggs (Baigal raises chickens so you can be Chinggis Bar (x24016; h10am-midnight) Depend-
Peace St
Government 2
Wrestling sure the eggs are fresh). ing on your perspective, the outer-space theme
Stadium
15
House
Gan Oyu Guesthouse (x22349, 9938 9438; ganoyu here seems totally surreal or completely ap-
Town
7 Square [email protected]; Peace St; dm incl breakfast US$5; i) This propriate for northern Mongolia. Chinese
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
Stadium Monument to
Davaadorj
5 guesthouse is the best value in town, with a and Mongolian food served by day, beer
3 4 16 To Baigal Guesthouse (400m); spotless dorm room and hot-water shower. by night.
Centre St

18 Bulgan (353km);
Ulaanbaatar (671km) It is on the 2nd floor of an apartment block Tes Supermarket (h10am-8pm) Located on the
next to the Dul Hotel. For a cheaper option, main road, this is one of several shopping
ask about its off-site ger camp, with beds for markets.
Hospital T3500. Laundry service available.
Shopping
years. Photographic exhibits of the Tsaatan Sleeping HOTELS Antique Souvenir House (x9976 8837; h9am-9pm)
people are also intriguing. The museum is CAMPING Turt Hotel (x9905 8239; per person T6000) The Turt Sells maps, books, antiques and locally pro-
housed inside the local Drama Theatre on The best camping spots are by the river, the is an older hotel and pretty run-down but the duced handicrafts. On the main road.
the town square. Delgermörön Gol. Twenty-seven kilometres management does keep it reasonably clean.
east of Mörön, on the road to Bulgan City, a It’s far better than the Delger Mörön, the Getting There & Away
DANZANDARJAA KHIID tiny, unmapped and unnamed lake offers good dumpy hotel next door. AIR
ДАНЗАНДАРЖАА ХИЙД camping. If you are heading west, there are Ider Hotel (x29612, 9938 2890; r T20,000, lux T35,000) MIAT (Mongolian Airlines; x9638 0002) is located in
great spots on the river past Burentogtokh. This place is clean and all rooms have an at- the Mongol Shuudan Bank building. Another
The history of this monastery is unclear,
tached bathroom, but it’s a little disorganised office opens at the airport when planes arrive.
but the original (Möröngiin Khuree) was
GER CAMPS and not as good value as the Dul. Located a MIAT runs direct flights between Ulaanbaatar
built around 1890 and was home to 2000
Dul Juulchin (x22206; GPS: N49° 38.483’, E100° 08.618’; block north of the Dul. and Mörön for US$90/157 one way/return.
monks. It was rebuilt and reopened in June
s/d US$15/20, ger US$20) Good value for money, Dul Hotel (x22206; s/d US$15/20, s/d half-lux Aero Mongolia (x22478, 9997 7705), located in the
1990, and now has 40 monks of all ages. It’s
this extension of the Dul empire has clean and US$20/25, lux US$30-45) The name of the place is a same building, flies here for US$109/194 one
a charming place, designed in the shape of a
simple rooms in the lodge or comfortable gers. little self-defeating but in fact this is the best way/return. EZ Nis (x21199, 9904 9930) charges
concrete ger, and contains a great collection
The toilets and showers are both clean. hotel in town. All rooms have been renovated US$120/216 one way/return; its office is in the
of thangka.
Harganat (x9938 7022; www.besudtour.com; GPS: and come with a modern bathroom, IDD Dul Hotel. Between the three of these airlines
The monastery is just back from the main phone and cable TV. The standard rooms have
road, on the way to the airport. Visitors are N49° 38.521’, E99° 50.030’; with/without meals US$30/15) there should be at least one flight a day.
Perched on a ridge over Delger-Mörön valley no hot water so a half-lux is a good option. It Mörön occasionally serves as a refuelling
always welcome. has an excellent restaurant downstairs. It is
this attractive camp has hot showers and ex- stop for flights headed further west, so you
cellent French and Italian food. Even if you’re located 100m northeast of the square. could theoretically combine a trip to the west
Tours not staying it’s a nice place for lunch after with Khövsgöl Nuur. Check MIAT for details.
The guesthouses listed below can help to ar- visiting the deer stones at Uushigiin Uver. In Eating & Drinking Buy your ticket as early as possible.
range transport out of Mörön. Local English- summer, swans swim in the river below but Jaragalan Café (x24409; meals T1300; h9am-8pm Mörön airport is about 5km from the
speaking guide Saraa (x9938 5577; saraa_m3@ the real time to visit is mid-September when Mon-Sat) The streetside patio at this Mongolian centre of town. You will have to take a jeep
yahoo.com) can also help with logistics and more than 100 swans make their home here. restaurant is worth visiting on a warm day. It’s or taxi there (T2500), or you can hop on the
travel in the area. It is 7km past Uushigiin Uver. just northwest of the square. crowded bus.
 ὈὈὈὈ
152 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • U u s h i g i i n U v e r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k 153

BUS show you around and provide commentary. Dukha). Shamanism, rather than Buddhism,
A direct bus departs Mörön for Ulaanbaatar Despite the uniqueness of the site, an ugly ger is the religion of choice in these parts.
KHÖVSGÖL NUUR NATIONAL

ὈὈὈὈ
(T20,000) on Tuesday, Thursday and camp built nearby detracts from its allure. The lake water is still clean but a rise in live- PARK 0
0
20 km
12 miles
Mönkh
Saturday at 2pm. It leaves from the minivan stock using the area for winter pasture has led Saridag Uul RUSSIA
Ikh Sa
stand. Going the other way, it departs from KHÖVSGÖL NUUR NATIONAL PARK to some pollution of the shore and feeder rivers, yani N
uruu
(3491m)
To Lake Baikal

ХӨВСГӨЛ НУУР
(175km)
Ulaanbaatar’s Teeveriin Tovchoo on Monday, so you are better off purifying your water.
Mondy
Wednesday and Friday. Known as the Blue Pearl of Mongolia, Khövsgöl Nuur is a pristine but increas-
Khövsgöl Nuur is an extraordinary lake that ingly heavily visited part of Mongolia. Please

ὈὈὈὈ
HITCHING stretches 136km deep into the Siberian taiga. read boxed texts p54 and p60 for suggestions Khankh
The Ulaanbaatar–Erdenet–Mörön road is The lake and mountains that surround it on how you can minimise your impact on this
fairly busy, so hitching a ride shouldn’t be form the basis for this popular national park, beautiful region. Khövsgöl Nuur
National Park
a problem. But be warned: the trip by truck a major destination for both Mongolian and
between Ulaanbaatar and Mörön is a tough 27 international tourists. Climate
or more nonstop hours (expect to pay at least In surface area, this is the second-largest Spring is a pleasant time to visit as it rains less

ᝲᝲ
T10,000 for a lift). Some travellers do it one

ὈὈὈὈ
lake (2760 sq km) in Mongolia, surpassed in and the flowers and birdlife are at their best. Khövsgöl
way for the ‘experience’ – and then gratefully size only by Uvs Nuur, a shallow, salty lake in However, it will still be very cold, with snow Nuur
fly back. It’s best to fly here from Ulaanbaatar the western part of the country. But Khövsgöl on the ground and ice on the lake (some ice Khuren Uul
as it’s easier to get a seat. It’s also easier to Nuur (sometimes transliterated as Hövsgöl or usually remains until early June). (3020m)

ᝲᝲ
Sevsuul
hitch to UB rather than from it, as all traffic Hovsgol) is Mongolia’s deepest lake (up to The summer is a little more crowded (not To Renchinlkhumbe
(20km)
tends to funnel back to the capital. 262m deep) as well as the world’s 14th-largest so crowded that it would spoil your trip), Jiglegiin
source of fresh water – it contains between but it can still be cold, and it often rains. Davaa

ὈὈὈὈ
Jiglegiin Am; Jigleg Camp
MINIVAN & JEEP 1% and 2% of the world’s fresh water (that’s The meadows around the lake are sprinkled Borsog
Khoridol Saridag Khar Us
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

ᝲᝲ

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
Modon
Minivans run between Ulaanbaatar and 380,700 billion litres!). Geologically speaking, with beautiful wildflowers during this time. Strictly Protected Huys
Area
Mörön daily (T25,000, 17 hours, 671km). Khövsgöl is the younger sibling (by 23 mil- Autumn is another pleasant time to visit, Uran Dösh Uul

Nuruu ag
(2792m)

Sarid
You can cut down on the time spent bump- lion years) of Siberia’s Lake Baikal, 195km to when the leaves are changing colour. Ikh Santin
Davaa
ing around in a van by taking the sleeper train the northeast, and was formed by the same Winter is amazingly cold, though blue skies

Khoridol
Ikh Uul
between UB and Erdenet. tectonic forces. are the norm. Khövsgöl Nuur freezes to a (2961m)

ὈὈὈὈ
Minibuses and jeeps leave most afternoons The lake is full of fish, such as lenok and depth of 120cm, allowing passenger trucks
to Khatgal (T7000, two hours). There are oc- sturgeon, and the area is home to argali sheep, to cross the length of the lake in winter. Oil Tsartai
Ekh Uul
Khirvisteg
Bulnai
Hot Springs
casional jeeps to Erdenet (T20,000, 10 hours) ibex, bear, sable, moose and a few near-sighted trucks once made this journey in vast num- (2515m) Toilogt
Jankhai
and Darkhan (T24,000, 13 hours, 601km). wolverines. It also has more than 200 species bers but this practice was stopped in 1990
Transport to Ulaanbaatar, Erdenet and of bird, including the Baikal teal, bar-headed when it was determined that they were pol- Khuvsgol Sor; Nature's Door
Jankhai
Darkhan leaves from the southern side of the goose (kheeriin galuu in Mongolian), black luting the water. About 40 trucks have fallen Mogoi
Davaa
market. Transport to Khatgal and elsewhere stork and Altai snowcock. through the ice over the years. Mod Ashihai; Hangard

leaves from north of the market.

ol
Chuluut
The region hosts three separate, unique Chandman-

nG
Öndör
From the city of Mörön it is 273km to peoples: Darkhad, Buriat and Tsaatan (aka Information l

Egii
Khatgal
Alan Goa Go
ig
Tosontsengel in Zavkhan aimag and 353km Discovery Initiatives produces a useful book- To Mörön Ar
(92km)
to Bulgan City. let on the park entitled Lake Hovsgol National
DEER STONES Park: A Visitors Guide, which you can get the national park. The cost is T3000/300 per
UUSHIGIIN UVER Found across Mongolia, deer stones are
in Ulaanbaatar and, maybe, in the national person for foreigners/Mongolians. If there’s
УУШИГИЙН ӨВӨР ancient burial markers that date from the
park office. no-one there you can buy permits at the in-
A Bronze Age site, Uushigiin Uver (GPS: N49° Information Centre (Мэдээллийн Төв; h9am- formation centre or from the ranger, who
Bronze Age. The ancient steppe tribes be-
39.316’, E99° 55.708’; admission T3000) contains 14 8pm) Located near the MS Guesthouse in Khatgal. It has patrols the lakeside on horseback. With your
lieved that after death a soul departed this
upright carved deer stones, plus sacrificial some interesting, museum-style displays on the lake but permit you should receive a useful visitors’
world and ascended to the sky on the backs
altars (keregsuur). This remarkable collection the staff speaks only Mongolian and has little practical pamphlet explaining the permits and how to
of deer. The deer carved onto the stones
is located 20km west of Mörön, and about information on touring the area. The caretaker (with the limit your impact on the lake. Hang onto the
are representational of this act. Many deer
1km north of the Delgermörön Gol. The keys) can be found in a ger around the back. ticket as you may be asked to show it more
stones are also carved with a belt, from
area is enclosed by a fence and small plac- Telecom office (x01382-26513/36; h8am-11pm) than once.
which hang various tools including axes and
ards describe the stones. The most unique, The post office is also located here; there’re plans for an
spears. These accessories would be required
stone 14, is topped with the head of a woman;
for successfully navigating the afterlife. Of
internet café but the only guaranteed place to check your Sights
there are only a handful of such deer stones email is back in Mörön. KHATGAL ХАТГАЛ
the 700 deer stones known to exist world-
in Mongolia. The carved stones are dated to As the southern gateway to Khövsgöl Nuur,
wide, 500 are located in Mongolia. The best
around 2500 to 4000 years old, and the nearby
collection of deer stones is at Uushigiin Uver
Permits Khatgal is the largest town on the lake. With
mountain range contains around 1400 burial On the main road, 12km before Khatgal, you’ll some of the best budget accommodation in
(see left).
tombs. A caretaker living near the area can be required to pay an entrance fee at a gate to Mongolia, it is a good launching pad for the
 154 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k 155

WESTERN SHORE
KHATGAL 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
From Khatgal, a reasonable road first heads BIZNESS TSAATAN
A B southwest before swinging northeast across Some Tsaatan (Reindeer People) have discovered the fine art of capitalism and have moved to
several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Khövsgöl Nuur to be nearer to their source of income – tourists. Their tepees are easy to spot
INFORMATION
Information Centre...................................1 A4 Jankhai Davaa, 17km from Khatgal, where on the lake shore, where they appear each summer, ready for photo opportunities (US$5) or the
1
Post Office...............................................2 A3
Telecom Office.......................................(see 2)
you receive your first magical glimpse of the chance to flog antler carvings.
lake. The road continues past the gorgeous Members of their own community know them as ‘Bizness Tsaatan’, or sometimes ‘Bizness
SLEEPING
Bonda Lake...............................................3 B3
headlands of Jankhai, once a Russian scientist Shaman’ as they occasionally put on a shaman dance in broad daylight (another US$5). While this
Garage 24.................................................4 B2 station, and Toilogt (GPS: N50° 39.266’, E100° 14.961’), may sound like an innocent way of extracting money from tourist pockets, the presence of the
Khövsgöl Inn............................................5 A4
MS Guesthouse........................................6 A4
pronounced ‘toy-logt’ but routinely mispro- Tsaatan on the shores of Khövsgöl Nuur has had detrimental effects on their reindeer. The lichen
Sunway Guesthouse.................................7 A3 nounced ‘toilet’ by most travellers, where upon which the reindeer feed does not grow at lake elevation, causing illness and sometimes
EATING there is a rash of ger camps. The road then death. Each year the Bizness Tsaatan families return to the taiga to buy more reindeer from other
Orgil Restaurant.......................................8 B3 gradually deteriorates. Tsaatan families, knowing that they endanger these creatures when they travel to the lake.
SHOPPING About 30km north of Toilogt is Khar Us The authorities have tried for years to move them out of the park, but business has been too
2 Buren Khaan Shop....................................9 B3 (GPS: N50° 56.132’, E100° 14.835’), a series of springs good to keep them away. Tourists might consider refusing their services to dissuade them from
surrounded by meadows of beautiful wild- returning. Also worth missing is the ‘Reindeer Festival’, a contrived midsummer event organised
To Modot Bulan
(6km) flowers. In June locals flock here to eat the by local tourist companies who don’t necessarily have the reindeer’s best interests in mind.
4
bailius fish for its medicinal properties (these If you want to visit a Tsaatan family, you’ll need to visit their camps outside Tsagaannuur
To Port (300m) fish are smoked and served with wild green (see p162).
7 onions, or sometimes boiled). This makes
a great destination to reach on horseback –
three days from Khatgal. actually improves a little here, then hugs the park rangers, Khatgal’s Government House
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NORTHERN MONGOLIA
A jeep can travel about 10km past Toilogt, lake and is usually passable all the way to or MS Guesthouse. Fishing is not allowed
3
3
after which the trail becomes overgrown and Khankh. Surprisingly, a few sand dunes dot between 15 April and 15 June. The fine for
is best managed on horseback for the trip the landscape. fishing illegally is US$40.
8 Khatgal up to Jiglegiin Am (GPS: N51° 00.406’, E100° 16.003’), From Khatgal, allow at least 12 hours
9 Government
2
House almost exactly halfway up the western shore. by jeep to travel the 200km or so to Khankh HIKING
Shops From Jiglegiin Am you could take the west- (Turt), a former depot for oil tankers headed This is one of the best ways to see the lake and
ern trail to Renchinlkhumbe, on the way to to and from Siberia. Khankh is more Buriat the mountains surrounding it. You will need
Tsagaannuur. For that trip see p156. and Russian than Mongolian, because it to be self-sufficient, although there are a few
is closer to its northern neighbour than gers in the area from which to buy some meat
To Airport (3km);
Mogoi Mod (4km); EASTERN SHORE to Ulaanbaatar. or dairy products. The trails around the lake
4
Jankhai Davaa (17km)
The eastern shore is less mountainous than Remember that if you reach Khankh, you are easy to follow, or just hug the shoreline as
1
the west, but offers spectacular views across will have to come all the way back along the much as you can.
6 Khövsgöl Nuur. There is wildlife, golden fields same bone-crunching, eastern road: there is Of the mountains in the southwestern re-
of grass and plenty of fishing holes. It gets far no way any vehicle can get from Khankh to gion, the most accessible is Tsartai Ekh Uul
To Mörön (101km) 5
fewer visitors than the western shore, making Jiglegiin Am, halfway up the western shore. At (2515m), immediately west of Jankhai, where
it a great destination for travellers seeking the moment going all the way around the lake is the hiking is excellent. Also try the numer-
lake and most people spend at least a day here an off-the-beaten-path experience. The main only possible by boat or horse. There have long ous other mountains in the mountain range
preparing for, or relaxing after, a trip. The drawback to this side of the lake is the appall- been plans to open the border crossing into of Khoridol Saridag Nuruu, such as Khuren
town is actually on the arm of the lake that ing road that heads up to Khankh, possibly Russia at Khankh – check for updates at the Uul (3020m), not far north of the trail to
funnels into the Egiin Gol, so you don’t get the worst stretch of road we encountered in border office in Ulaanbaatar or in Mörön. Renchinlkhumbe; Ikh Uul (2961m), a little
much of an idea of the lake’s size from here. 15,000km of overland travel! Expect mud, northwest of Toilogt; and the extinct volcano
Khatgal used to be a busy depot for trucks rocks, roots and the odd collapsed bridge. Activities of Uran Dösh Uul (2792m).
headed to and from Russia, but the town’s From Khatgal, head for the bridge over FISHING Longer treks are possible around the Ikh
economy is now based mainly on tourism. the Egiin Gol, where you may need to ask If you love fishing, then you’ll get excited Sayani Nuruu range, which has many peaks
There are easy walks up the lakeshore or, directions. The trail meanders over some about Khövsgöl Nuur. If you don’t have fish- over 3000m. It is right on the border of Russia,
for an easier view of the lake, just climb the hills and continues past an interesting ovoo ing gear already, you can buy some at the so be careful not to accidentally cross it or you
hill immediately north of Nature’s Door camp at the pass Ikh Santin Davaa (GPS: N50° 52.622’, E100° shops in Khatgal (Buren Khaan shop has the may get shot at by border guards.
(p158). You can also check out the Mogoi Mod 41.185’) to a gorgeous spot called Borsog (GPS: best selection). Both Garage 24 and MS Guesthouse (p157)
(Snake Tree; GPS: N50° 27.080’, E100° 07.274’), located N50° 59.677’, E100° 42.983’), six hours by jeep and Around a dozen species of fish inhabit the in Khatgal have trained some local hiking
4km from town, past the airport, towards 103km from Khatgal. lake, including salmon, (bony) sturgeon, gray- guides in first aid, route finding and low-im-
Jankhai Davaa (Jankhai Pass). This tree, which If your spine hasn’t suffered permanent ling and lenok. A fishing permit costs T10,000 pact hiking and have scouted out some good
curves into a unique spiral, is honoured with damage by now, you could carry on further and is valid for three days or 10 fish, which- treks in the surrounding mountains. Contact
hadak (ritual scarves). to a couple of gers known as Sevsuul. The road ever comes first. You can get them from the them for route ideas and/or guides.
 156 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k 157

Garage 24 has a Zodiac boat and can very knowledgeable about hiking and horse-
TREKKING FROM KHÖVSGÖL TO DARKHAD run travellers up to its camp and beyond trekking routes in the area. The camp has hot
One of the most adventurous treks in Mongolia, done by either horse or foot, begins in to the island and the northern reaches of showers, clean pit toilets and a lodge where
Khatgal, goes up the western shore of the lake and over the Jiglegiin Davaa (Jiglegiin Pass) to the lake. MS Guesthouse also has a motor you can order meals (T1200). Prices include
Renchinlkhumbe. boat. Ask about the two-day boat trip to breakfast. This place is open all year, and may
From Khatgal to Jiglegiin Am, about halfway up the western shore of Khövsgöl Nuur, will Jiglegiin Am (T300,000 for up to six people, be your only option in winter.
take five days (four hours’ riding each day). You start to feel the isolation after Ongolog Gol (the including meals). Garage 24 (x 011-323 957, 9911 8652; www
end of the jeep road), from where it’s a 10-hour journey to Khar Us. There are endless camping Several large boats remain moored at the .4thworldadventure.com; dm T5000, camping T3000) This
spots along this route. Khatgal docks. They very occasionally take environmentally conscious backpacker
From Khar Us it’s just three hours to Jiglegiin Am where you can find accommodation in a cabin passengers up to Khankh but these days they hangout is built from a reclaimed Soviet-era
(T2000) and get a cooked meal (T1000) – it’s best to have exact change. The jeep trail that heads will only move when chartered, which will truck garage. The cosy lodge, warmed by a
up to Jiglegiin Davaa (2500m) is very muddy even after a long dry spell – this is where a pair of cost an arm and a leg. If you do charter a boat fireplace, feels like an old English country
Russian NBC overboots will come in handy. Expect to get to the pass in around three hours. to Khankh, you’ll still have to share it with a home. It has bunk beds and a dining area
From the pass it’s a gentle walk down to the Arsayn Gol, which you’ll need to cross at least boatload of nonpaying passengers who have where you can get the best food in northern
twice. There are also some side streams to cross. These crossings are usually OK but if it’s been been waiting for some tourist or trader to fork Mongolia. Mountain bikes, kayaks, horses and
raining hard you can be stuck for hours or even days. In dry spells the river can disappear com- out the money. camping gear are rented out to suit your needs
pletely so you need to fill up with water whenever possible. (note that some kit may be at the Jankhai
After a seven-hour walk from the pass you should be at Ooliin Gol (25km west of Jiglegiin Am) Festivals & Events camp). The staff is friendly but little English
where there are some camping spots. It’s then another seven hours to Renchinlkhumbe. When If for some strange reason you’ve come to is spoken. Garage 24 is in the north of town,
you reach the broad expanse of the Darkhad, make a beeline south for the town. northern Mongolia in winter, it is worth at the base of the hill, not far from the storage
The final three hours of the trek are often marred by horrific swarms of flies and mosquitoes – checking out the Khatgal Ice Festival, held on drums of the petrol station.
a sanity-saving measure is to wrap your head with a towel or T-shirt. The bugs seem to disappear 28 February. The event includes cross-country Khövsgöl Inn (x9911 5929, 9838 9687; klm@boojum
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NORTHERN MONGOLIA
when you’ve reached the village. skiing, ice-skating and horse-sledding com- .com; dm T5000, ger T10,000) A welcome addition to
From Renchinlkhumbe it’s another two-day trek to Tsagaannuur, from where you can organise petitions. Khatgal’s naadam (traditional sports Khatgal, this place offers quality accommoda-
a trip to the Tsaatan camps. Alternatively, you could return to Khatgal via the old Russian logging festival) is held on 11 July. tion at competitive rates. Beds are available in
route that runs through the mountains. If you have no intention of going to Tsagaannuur you In late June or early July, the Sunrise to Sunset gers or dorms and there is a nice lodge with a
could skip Renchinlkhumbe too and take a shortcut back to Khatgal. This involves following the Ultra-marathon is held further up the lakeshore. cosy fireplace. It’s affiliated with the Saridag
Arsayn Gol around 35km upstream, eventually picking up the logging route. Mongolian and international runners compete Inn at Renchinlkhumbe and the Jigleg Camp
This route involves moderate trekking in good weather. However, the area is prone to heavy rain in 42km or 100km divisions; for more info, on the lake so you can get info here if you are
and flash flooding that can stop you in your tracks. Hikers and horse riders are frequently made check the website: www.ultramongolia.org/. headed that way. It’s between MS Guesthouse
to wait on river banks (sometimes for several days) until water levels drop low enough for them and the Egiin Gol.
to cross. Bring wet-weather gear, warm clothes and preferably a guide to get you across. If you Sleeping Sunway (x9975 3824; horsetrek_khuvsgul@yahoo
don’t have a guide, at least bring a good map, such as the Lake Khövsgöl National Park Satellite KHATGAL .com; per person US$5) This camp is smaller and less
Map (Conservation Ink). Contact MS Guesthouse in Khatgal for further details on this trek. If you have a tent and are hanging around for communal than others, although some travel-
a lift to the lake or to Mörön, you can camp lers may prefer it that way. The hot shower is
in the forests along the shores of the Egiin powered by an inventive foot pump. It’s on
HORSE RIDING of the lake to Chandman-Öndör and Dayan Gol, either in town or in the beautiful valleys the northwestern part of town below the hills.
The only place to organise a horse trek around Derkhiin Agui, a sacred cave. A trip to the further south. It serves meals (T1500).
the lake is in Khatgal. The three main guest- Bulnai hot springs would take eight to nine Bonda Lake (x9996 3994; [email protected];
houses can arrange everything within 24 days. You’ll definitely need a guide. camping T2000, r T3000, ger T4000) This new addition MODOT BULAN
hours. Prices are negotiable but reasonable Shorter trips include one to Toilogt, to Khatgal is located on the main road head- This area extends due north of Khatgal, up the
at about T7000 per horse per day, and about through the mountainous Khoridol Saridag ing north, just past the shops. It has four-bed Egiin Gol mouth for about 6km. Most people
T10,000 to T15,000 per day for a guide. Ger Nuruu Strictly Protected Area, or up to Khar gers and one ger with a double bed. You can miss it because the road up the coast bypasses
camps along the lake can organise horse rent- Us and back in five or six days. also stay in the lodge but these rooms are a this section. If you are exploring the lake by
als for day trips. bit boxy. The hot showers work well and the foot you can walk here and continue up the
A guide is recommended for horse-riding KAYAKING & BOATING English-speaking owner has kayaks for rent. shore (which is blissfully ger-camp free for
trips in the region and, in fact, park regula- Travelling by kayak allows you to see the Ask for Bayara. another 7km).
tions stipulate that foreigners should have one lake without the strain of driving along the MS Guesthouse (x9979 6030; lake_hovsgol@yahoo Hangard (x011-311 333, www.ashihai.mn; with/
local guide for every four tourists. Guides will appalling roads. The lake is full of glorious .com; bed per person T5000, camping T3000) This guest- without meals US$30/15) Just past Ashihai, the
expect you to provide food while on the trail. little coves, perfect for camping and fishing, house (designed like a camp), in the extreme Hangard camp is a large camp that caters to
A complete circuit of the lake on horseback and you could even check out Modon Huys, an south of town, is the first collection of gers you tour groups. It has a couple of boats and does
will take from 10 to 15 days. A return trip by island almost exactly in the middle of the lake. see when you arrive in town. Perhaps the most yak cart trips.
horse from Khatgal to Tsagaannuur, and a Nomadic Expeditions (p81) runs kayaking congenial of ger camps around Khatgal; the Ashihai (x011-315 459, 9968 5185; www.fly2mongolia
visit to the Tsaatan, will take 15 to 20 days. An trips in the region. Garage 24 (opposite) can staff makes visitors feel at home, with com- .mn; with/without meals US$40/20) This camp nearly
interesting two-week trip could take you east rent kayaks for T25,000 per day. munal meals and activities. Owner Ganbaa is qualifies as a work of art. Beautifully decorated
 158 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • K h ö v s g ö l N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • C h a n d m a n - Ö n d ö r 159

gers are embroidered with traditional patterns Khuvsgol Sor (x011-300 150; with/without meals Eating Inquire at the stand at the northern end of the
and the interior contains exquisitely carved US$30/15) This is the first camp after the pass There are a few basic shops in Khatgal selling market in Mörön.
furniture. Gers are elevated onto wood plat- (Jankhai Davaa). Unlike many others on things such as beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars Transport also meets the Ulaanbaatar flight
forms and offer lake views. The camp has a this part of the lake, this one is hidden in and a limited selection of vegetables. If pos- at Mörön airport to take passengers directly to
fine location on spit of land overlooking the the trees and off the main road, providing sible, stock up in Mörön or Ulaanbaatar. The Khatgal. Some jeep owners will try to charge
lake and the bay. some sense of isolation. Quality cabins and following places are all in Khatgal. foreigners up to US$50 for the run; local driv-
bathrooms available. Orgil Restaurant (meals T900; h9am-9pm) Amid ers with the ‘ХӨА’ license plate are likely to
WESTERN & EASTERN SHORES Nature’s Door (x9926 0919; ger without meals the row of downtown shops and guanz. Has an be fairer. Contact Bata Guesthouse (p151) in
Camping T15,000) This popular backpacker hangout has English-language menu that includes cream Mörön for transport to Khatgal.
Khövsgöl Nuur offers excellent camping plush cabins, a lodge and excellent Western soup, goulash and vegetable khuushuur (fried A chartered jeep should not cost more than
opportunities. There is endless fresh water, food options. Most people stay in the gers but pancake). the normal T450 per kilometre. There are
plenty of fish, and the hiking is outstanding. for around US$30, the flashy cabins are also Garage 24 (p157) has a Western-oriented plenty of jeeps in Mörön but few in Khatgal,
On the down side, it often rains in summer an option. Camping (US$3) allows you access menu that will come as a welcome break after where it is best to ask at the guesthouses.
and you’ll need to hike a bit to get past the to the hot-water showers. The staff speaks a few days of hard trekking in the wilderness. Khatgal is 101km from Mörön over a raised
rash of ger camps. English although many travellers report frosty The English breakfast (T6000) includes bacon, gravel road.
There are designated camp sites, marked by dealings with the management. If booking toast, beans and sausage. Lunch and dinner
yellow signs with a triangle. There are camp transport and trips here, do check the prices menu items include shepherd’s pie (T4800) CHANDMAN-ÖNDÖR
sites near the Nature’s Door camp, just past carefully, and compare with those offered by and pizza (T5500). Give some advance warn- ЧАНДМАНЬ-ӨНДӨР
Jankhai camp, and two in the bay between other operators where possible. Nature’s Door Nestled between pine-clad mountains and
ing as preparations take around an hour.
Jankhai and Toilogt. These seem to be aimed is associated with Garage 24 in Khatgal; it’s consisting almost entirely of log cabins, the
MS Guesthouse (p157) is another nice place
primarily at Mongolian tourists and groups. about 5km past Jankhai Davaa. village of Chandman-Öndör comes straight
to eat and will occasionally prepare khorkhog
Away from these areas you can pretty much o Toilogt (x 011-460 368; www.hovsgol out of the pages of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.
and authentic Mongolian barbecue for guests
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
pitch your tent anywhere you want, though travel.com; with/without meals US$35/18) Run by the The surrounding area is one of wide meadows,
try to stay 100m from other gers. You should and visitors. alpine forests and wildflowers, making it a
Hovsgol Travel Company, this excellent camp
never camp, wash or build fires within 50m is 5km north of Jankhai, and off the main road good exploratory trip for hardy travellers.
of the shore. to the right. It is situated by a peaceful and
Getting There & Away The town museum (admission T500) shows off
AIR
The best camping spots on the western lovely lake immediately adjacent to Khövsgöl local history. More interesting is the Alan Goa
shoreline are anywhere between Jankhai and In summer MIAT has direct flights from Museum (admission T500), housed inside the ger-
Nuur. Facilities here are of high standard and
Ongolog Nuur, 10km north of Toilogt. If the camp offers bikes, boats and horses for Ulaanbaatar to Khatgal (via Mörön) four shaped log cabin. Alan Goa was an ancestor of
you have your own jeep, and want to experi- hire. Concerts are occasionally organised for days a week; the cost is US$101/192 one way/ Chinggis Khaan and revered locally.
ence one of the worst roads in Mongolia, the guests. The camp has a boat that can transfer return. Flights are cut back in the off season, Every three years a large naadam is held here
best spot to camp on the eastern shoreline is you here from Khatgal but you’ll need to give but extra flights might be added for the July to honour Alan Goa. The naadam attracts
at Borsog. advance notice to the Ulaanbaatar office. peak season. Schedules are continually in flux Mongols from Inner Mongolia, Kalmyks,
Khirvesteg (x 9938 8955; with/without meals so check with MIAT in Ulaanbaatar. There are Tuvans and Buriats as well as a host of
Ger Camps T25,000/5000) One of the last camps on the no longer any flights to Khankh. Khalkh Mongols. The next instalment is in
There are several ger camps in stunning lo- western shore, Khirvesteg is 42km north August 2009.
cations on the western shore (but only one of Khatgal. HITCHING The only place to stay in town is Alan Goa
or two on the east). Nearly all have electric- Jigleg Camp (dm T2000) Serves as a handy For lifts from Mörön, hang around the market Töv (x01382-26535, 9577 6963; per person T5000), a
ity, running water, flush toilets and showers, pit stop for trekkers on their way to or the petrol station – and keep asking. Once fenced-off grassy area in the centre of town
though many are dangerously near the shore- Renchinlkhumbe (it’s right at the Jigleg trail in Khatgal, most trucks will stop in front of where some gers are set up in summer. Ask
line and have little environmental regard for head). The camp is 90km north of Khatgal. the post office. for Oyunchimeg or Enkhtuvshin, the local
the lake. Most places will offer a lower price Book through Khövsgöl Inn in Khatgal. From Khatgal, hitching a ride to Jankhai or couple that manages the place.
if you bring and cook your own food. The Toilogt shouldn’t be difficult in the summer, Oyunchimeg can play the shanz, a sort of
majority open only in mid-June. KHANKH but you’ll probably end up paying a fair bit python-skin banjo, and will give lessons for
Several families also accept guests in a Northern Gate Ger Guesthouse (NGGH; per person for a lift anyway. Ask the guests at the camps a small fee.
guest ger. They are not registered with the T10,000) Operated by the people from MS for a lift. You should be self-sufficient with Around 11km from town on the road to
park and they don’t advertise, but if you ask Guesthouse in Khatgal (see p157). To find camping gear and food. Mörön is a painted statue of Alan Goa (GPS: N50°
around you can probably find a family who the guesthouse, walk over the bridge at the Hitching around the eastern shore is much 24.994’, E100° 58.548’). About 5km west of the
will let you stay for a couple of US dollars. northern end of Khankh near the northern- more difficult and you could wait for days for statue on the main road to Tsagaan-Uur is
Note that none of these will have the above- most of the two jetties, turn right and follow a lift to come along. a deer stone.
mentioned facilities. the track up the steep hill where you will see Shared jeeps going to Chandman-Öndör
The main group of camps start where the the compound. JEEP (T11,000) occasionally leave from the north-
road meets the lake, after descending from The Last Frontier (GPS: N51° 30.566’, E100° 39.296’; Minivans and jeeps regularly make the trip ern side of the market in Mörön. From
Jankhai Davaa. The following are listed south per person with meals US$40) ger camp is another between Mörön and Khatgal (three hours) Khatgal you need your own jeep. The 85km
to north: option in Khankh. for T7000 per person or T70,000 for the jeep. ride is very rough and takes five to six hours.
 160 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • A r o u n d C h a n d m a n - Ö n d ö r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • D a r k h a d D e p re s s i o n 161

It’s muddy in places and the chances of getting to pay around T50,000 for this service (the
bogged are pretty good (the worst bit is in a crossings are 20km apart so the tractor needs THE NINTH JEBTZUN DAMBA
valley around 48km out of Khatgal). Don’t to follow you). It’s somewhat ironic that while Mongolia enjoys freedom of religion, its spiritual leader is not
attempt it after a heavy rain. About 26km downstream from the monas- allowed to visit the country. The 76-year-old ninth Jebtzun Damba (‘Bogd Khan’ in Mongolian),
In the rainy season, the best way here is tery is the confluence of the Eg and Uur Gols. who in 1999 was officially recognised as the chief Buddhist monk, currently makes his home in
by horse; the trek from Khatgal takes four to Head west at the Eg and after about 35km Dharamsala, India.
five days. The route is spectacular, the lone you’ll reach the town of Erdenebulgan, which The debate regarding the status of the Jebtzun Damba has its roots back in 1924. When the
drawback being swarms of flies in the boggy offers basic food and lodging. eighth Jebtzun Damba died, the newly formed communist government refused to recognise any
areas on the second day of the trek. Alternatively, continue down the Eg-Uur future ‘reincarnations’, ensuring their control over Mongolian Buddhism. Even after restrictions were
Gol, a rough and remote journey into north- lifted in 1990 the Mongolian government kept its distance from the ninth Jebtzun Damba, who
AROUND CHANDMAN-ÖNDÖR ern Bulgan aimag. was formally identified by the Dalai Lama in 1991.
Chandman-Öndör is the jumping-off point In the northeast of the aimag, the area The ninth Jebtzun Damba was born in Tibet in 1932 and was accepted as the ninth reincarna-
for several sites, including the Bulnai hot springs around the Khökh, Arig and Kheven tion at the age of four. To protect him from Stalin’s thugs his identity was kept a secret and he
(Булнайн Рашаан; per person T5000), about 60km Gols is particularly good for camping and later escaped anonymously to India.
northwest of town. This Soviet-era resort has hiking enthusiasts. In 1999, at the age of 67, he turned up in Ulaanbaatar, unannounced, having received a tourist
wood cabins over the springs, some of which visa in Moscow. (One can only imagine the customs form: ‘Occupation: Reincarnation of Tibetan
reach 48°C. DARKHAD DEPRESSION deity Vajrapani’!)
Heading east of Chandman-Öndör, the ДАРХАДЫН ХӨНДИЙ It seems all too coincidental that his visit coincided with that of then Chinese president
road follows the Arig Gol. After 41km you’ll About 50km west of Khövsgöl Nuur, behind Jiang Zemin, but whether or not the visit was orchestrated from Dharamsala remains pure
pass a row of 13 shamanic tepees (GPS: N50° 30.727’, a wall of mountains, sits a harsh but mystical speculation.
E101° 17.478’) made from sticks. These represent landscape of prairie, forest, and 300-odd lakes The Jebtzun Damba stayed in Mongolia for 60 days, visiting monasteries in both Ulaanbaatar
the 12 years according to the Asian calendar, scattered over a wide plain called the Darkhad and the countryside. Although mobbed by adoring fans wherever he went, he was pressured to
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NORTHERN MONGOLIA
plus one central ovoo. After another 13km Depression. The depression is roughly the leave after overstaying his visa.
you’ll spot a sacred tree honoured with blue same size as Khövsgöl Nuur and was also The Jebtzun Damba still teaches Buddhism in Dharamsala and has among his students several
silk scarves. The town of Tsagaan-Uur, reached originally formed as a glacial lake. Mongolian monks and nuns. He still hopes to return to Mongolia one day although current restric-
after another 5km, has shops and guanz. The The difficulty in reaching the region en- tions prevent him from doing so. For more information on Mongolia’s exiled spiritual leader, see
bridge east of town washed away in 2006 and sures the unique Tsaatan people, who are www.jetsundhampa.com.
the river crossing now is a bit dicey. About among the inhabitants of the valleys (see
15km east of Tsagaan-Uur you’ll spot another p149), are able to continue their traditional
large wood ovoo. lifestyle – but tourism is rapidly making an intend to travel, passport copies and ideally a A nice time to visit the town is in mid-June
Around 38km past Tsagaan-Uur (and impact. Darkhad is one of Mongolia’s strong- letter of support from a Mongolian organisa- when it hosts the Blue Valley Awards Festival, a
97km past Chandman-Öndör) is the Dayan est centres of shamanism. tion of some sort. In a pinch, guesthouses can great time to see traditional horse games and
Derkh Monastery (GPS: N50° 26.804’, E101° 53.328’), This is one of the best-watered regions in arrange the permit in Khatgal through their singing competitions.
set on a beautiful bend of the Uur Gol. The Mongolia and the lakes are full of white carp Mörön contacts. Renchinlkhumbe hosts an excellent local
log cabin temple, rebuilt in 2006 over the re- and trout. Salmon and huge taimen can also Additional permits are not needed to visit naadam (July 11) complete with ‘barrel racing’
mains of an older monastery, is home to seven be found in the region. the Tsaatan camps, but an informal control (horse racing around barrels) and mounted
lamas. Another 15km east of the temple is the One definite drawback to visiting the re- system is in place to monitor visitors heading archery events, along with the usual wrestling,
Dayan Derkhiin Agui (Даян Дэрхийн Агуй), a gion is the insects that invade the area in in and out of the area. One measure asks visi- horse racing and standing archery.
cave considered holy by local Buddhists and summer. Be warned: these little critters have tors to submit their name and travel dates to The local ger camp, Saridag Inn (GPS: N51°
shamanists. According to legend, the mon- insatiable appetites for foreign skin and will Tsaatan representatives in Ulaanbaatar. You 06.852’, E099° 40.135’; camping/r/ger T3000/4000/T5000)
astery was founded after the famed shaman ruin your trip if you are not fully prepared can do this by emailing reindeer@hovsgol is run by Khövsgöl Lodge Company. Its hot-
Dayan Derkh turned to stone rather than with mosquito nets and repellent. .org. The representative will inform you of the water showers and sit-down toilets are legen-
be captured by Chinggis Khaan, whose wife best travel dates and provide travel tips. Please dary. Prices are per person.
the shaman had stolen. In winter you could Permits respect the Tsaatan by dropping an email;
reach the cave by vehicle, in summer the only To visit Tsagaannuur (and probably Rench- you’ll get a better welcome for it. Tsagaannuur Цагааннуур
way is by horse (a six-hour return journey). inlkhumbe) you will need a border permit, Once you reach Tsagaannuur, you are also About 40km beyond Renchinlkhumbe is
Herders in the area may be able to rent you a available in Ulaanbaatar. If you didn’t get one encouraged to visit the Tsaatan Community Tsagaannuur, the last stop before the Tsaatan
horse for T5000. In theory you need a border in Ulaanbaatar you could try to get one in & Visitors Center (p162). encampments in the taiga.
permit for Tsagaan-Uur and Dayan Derkhiin Mörön, although many travellers have been Tsagaannuur’s mid-June Reindeer Festival is
Agui, although there is rarely anyone around turned away so you’re taking your chances. Renchinlkhumbe Рэнчинлхүмбэ now becoming an annual event. It includes rein-
to check. In either case, it’s strongly advised that you Renchinlkhumbe is 42km west of the Jiglegiin deer polo, reindeer racing, arts and crafts, and
The road from Dayan Derkh Monastery to register in Mörön. Border permits are free Am trailhead on Khövsgöl Nuur, an adventur- a big bonfire. However, bringing the reindeer
Erdenebulgan requires two difficult river cross- and are processed in one to three working ous two-day journey on foot or horseback. down to this elevation is definitely not good for
ings. A tractor might be available to haul you days. Delays are common so apply as early Most travellers heading further into the taiga their health, and the festival has become some-
across (ask at the monastery), but you’ll need as possible. You’ll need a map of where you will rest here for at least one night. what controversial within the community.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
162 K H Ö V S G Ö L • • M ö r ö n t o Te r k h i i n Ts a g a a n N u u r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com K H Ö V S G Ö L • • M ö r ö n t o Te r k h i i n Ts a g a a n N u u r 163

INFORMATION (www.world-trekking.com) brings small groups into and graves (GPS: N48° 45.808’, E99° 23.084’). A further demonstrate the use of hand-powered drills
The village is home to the Tsaatan Community the area and contributes some of the profits 8km brings you to a scenic pass and the his- and other tools. The other attraction in town
& Visitors Center (TCVC; http://itgel.org/visitors_center back into the community. toric Gelenkhuugiin Suvraga (GPS: N48° 41.182’, E99° is Jargalantiin Dugan (also called Dashbijeliin
.htm), which provides background info on the 22.650’), an old stupa built in 1890 by local hero Süm), an old monastery that dates back to
Tsaatan and important tips on travel in the Getting There & Away Khainzan Gelenkhuu (1870–1937), who leapt 1890. It’s run-down and boarded up but you
area. The TCVC can organise guides, horses AIR off a 200m cliff with a set of sheepskin wings could still have a look around.
and other logistics for trips to the taiga; it’s There are no flights to Tsagaannuur, save the and flew as if he were some kind of Icarus- Jargalant has three basic but clean hotels,
operated by the Tsaatan community with sup- odd charter flight. Staff from foreign embas- incarnate. From the pass it’s an easy 19km each offering rooms for around T5000. The
port from the Itgel Foundation (www.itgel.org). sies and development agencies in Ulaanbaatar to Jargalant. most established is the Deed Khonkh Hotel,
It’s a good idea to contact the TCVC well sometimes take a helicopter directly to the Jargalant is a pretty town near the conflu- which also contains the local bar (open 9am
ahead of your visit (at least one week) as it Tsaatan encampments and land like some ence of the Ider and Khonjil Gols. The sum is to midnight). More upscale is the Jargal Jiguur
can take a few days to organise guides and flying saucer from outer space. perhaps most famous as being homeland of a (x011-450 093; [email protected]; GPS: N48° 33.615’,
horses. Call or email the Itgel office (x9972 herder named Öndöör Gongor (Tall Gongor) E99° 22.061’; with/without meals US$42/16, shower US$2), a
2667; [email protected]) in Ulaanbaatar if you plan HITCHING who was 2.63m in height (you can see pictures ger camp 3km east of town (meals are US$6
on using TCVC services. Otherwise, send an Traffic between Mörön and Tsagaannuur is of him in the local museum). to US$8). The highlight of the camp is a min-
email to [email protected]; you’ll receive extremely sparse, but if you have your own The museum (admission T500; h8am-7pm) in eral spring pool (you can see the natural pool
an auto-reply filled with useful tips on travel tent and food, and don’t mind waiting for a Jargalant contains old photos, stuffed animals across the river, just follow the pipes).
in the region. day or two, something may come along dur- and religious objects. Two of the rooms are About 6km east of town are several burial
A bathhouse (T1000) is located south of the ing summer – or it may not. not lit so bring a torch (flashlight). It’s run by mounds, including one with a tree growing
taiga hotel and post office, next to the lake. a local elder named Shagdarsuren who will from it. It’s another 70km to the shores of
HORSE proudly show off some of his wood craft and Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur.
SLEEPING & EATING There is really only one way to get to the taiga:
NORTHERN MONGOLIA

NORTHERN MONGOLIA
The TCVC offers guesthouse accommoda- by horse. Horses can be hired in Tsagaannuur,
tion at its new facility in Tsagaannuur. You otherwise you can take them from Khatgal.
can also stay with Ganbaa, a local who runs A return trip from Khatgal to Tsagaannuur,
a guesthouse (incl breakfast T5000) and restaurant; with a visit to the Tsaatan, will take from 15
it’s located just north of the post office. A tent to 20 days. You could go from Khatgal to
and your own food will also suffice. Tsagaannuur on an easy trail in about five
days (bypassing Jiglegiin Am), but you would
Around Tsagaannuur miss Khövsgöl Nuur.
The Tsaatan live in two groups, known as the
east (zuun) and west (baruun) taiga (this is JEEP
a little confusing as the west taiga is actually By chartered jeep, you can get to Tsagaannuur
south of the east taiga). From Tsagaannuur, from Mörön (but rarely from Khatgal) in a
it can take four to 12 hours to reach the west bone-crunching 12 to 20 hours, depending on
taiga by horse (the camps move but are usu- the state of the road. A seat should cost around
ally closer in the early summer). The UN T20,000, but you’ll have to negotiate hard
Development Programme has dropped several and long for a reasonable price. There are no
tepee hotels (per person T5000) in both taigas; these scheduled public shared jeeps to Tsagaannuur;
are operated by the Tsaatan themselves. The hiring one would cost around T50,000.
east taiga is 10km north of the Shishged Gol,
which is crossed by ferry. The west taiga has MÖRÖN TO TERKHIIN TSAGAAN NUUR
more rugged beauty while the east taiga is eas- A popular route out of Khövsgöl is south to
ier to visit for travellers without much time. Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur in Arkhangai aimag.
Once you are in the taiga, you’ll need your This is also an excellent road for cyclists.
own tent, camping supplies and 100% DEET About 97km southwest of the aimag capital
to keep the bugs at bay. The TCVC offers is Zuun Nuur (GPS: N49° 03.727’, E99° 31.096’), a large
meal kits that you can bring to the taiga to be lake and the scenic highlight of the region.
cooked by the Tsaatan families. Once you’ve There is good camping in the region and in
left Tsagaannuur, figure on spending around summer many nomadic families live here. An © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
US$30 a day for horses, guides, accommoda- interesting headland jutting into the lake ends restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
tion and meals. with a dramatic stick ovoo. The lake is 13km
Plenty of tour operators offer trips to the north of Shine-Ider village. only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
taiga. A specialist in the area is Dino de Toffol, Around 30km south of Shine-Ider, right everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
whose Italian company Lupo World Trekking on the main road, is an area of standing stones the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
164 lonelyplanet.com K H E N T I I 165

History Ulaanbaatar that go through Öndörkhaan

Eastern Mongolia The Tamtsagbulag Neolithic site in Dornod,

active more than 4000 years ago, is proof that
agriculture predated nomadic pastoralism on
on their way to Baruun-Urt and Choibalsan.
Another route into the region is through
northern Khentii – daily minivans from
the eastern steppes. But it was the Kitan, a Naran Tuul travel to Dadal via Ömnödelger
Manchurian tribal confederation, who made and Binder. During the rainy season this trip
the first big impression on the region, building can take more than 25 hours.
forts and farming communities in the 10th cen- With your own vehicle, it’s possible to
Eastern Mongolia is where heaven and earth fuse into one part – a blank slate of blue sky tury, including Kherlen Bar Khot in Dornod. drive to eastern Mongolia from the Gobi.
colliding with an equally empty sea of yellow grass. The occasional wooden shack or ger Another Manchu tribe, the Jurchen, de- You could even enter from Russia at the
reminds you that humans do inhabit this enormous landscape, but for the most part it’s an posed the Kitan in the early 12th century, Ereentsav–Solovyevsk border crossing in
renamed itself the Jin, and returned eastern Dornod aimag. If you are in Selenge aimag,
unspoilt amphitheatre of bounding gazelle, scurrying marmots and jeep tracks that squiggle the only direct way into Khentii is on foot
Mongolia to its warring ways. It wasn’t until
endlessly into the distance. Chinggis Khaan united the fractured clans in or horseback; jeep travellers will need to go
1206 that peace took over. via Ulaanbaatar.
Biologists fawn over the region, touting it as one of the world’s last great unharmed grass- It was from Avarga (modern Delgerkhaan)
land ecosystems – imagine the scenery from Dances with Wolves. Yet, Mongolian politicians that Chinggis launched expeditions south to- Getting Around
have their own vision of Manifest Destiny and threaten the region with ill-planned urban- wards China. When the capital was moved Public transport can get you to some places of
to Karakorum in 1220 the region withdrew interest, including Dadal and Dariganga. But if
development schemes. Get there before the grassland disappears.
into obscurity. It wasn’t until 1939 that east- you want to maximise your time and see what
Besides the grasslands, the major feature of the region is the Khan Khentii mountains. This ern Mongolia was again in the headlines, this the region really has to offer you’ll need your
time as a battlefield between Japanese and own vehicle, either hired from Ulaanbaatar
was the homeland of Temujin, the embattled boy who grew up to become Chinggis Khaan. A or from one of the aimag capitals. Make sure
Soviet forces. Heavy losses forced the Japanese
number of sites recall his legacy – the highlight being Dadal, a storybook village of log cabins your guide and driver have some experience in
military machine south, but the Khalkh Gol
that claims to be the birthplace of the great khaan. In the southeast of the region, Dariganga region is still littered with battle scars from the region, as this will make navigation easier
remains an inspiring getaway. This volcanic area is filled with craters, lava tubes, ancient stone the brief campaign. (a GPS is a handy alternative). The best way to
figures and legendary stories about horse bandits that harassed the Chinese. The discovery of zinc and oil in the region explore northern Khentii, including the Khan
in the 1990s brought the promise of develop- Khentii Strictly Protected Area, is on horse-
Most travellers write off the east because it’s not on the way to anywhere and lacks the sex ment. Uranium is also found in the north- back – both Batshireet and Dadal are great
east. However, resources have so far proven places to launch an expedition. The train that
appeal of the Gobi. This is a shame as it’s one of the most beautiful areas of the country and
relatively small and whatever profits have connects Choibalsan and Chuluunkhoroot is
relatively easy to get around by jeep. Yet it’s something of a blessing for those travellers who something of an adventure, but not that useful
been made have so far failed to stimulate the
want to leave the tourist buses behind and experience an almost untouched landscape. local economy. for serious exploration – you’re better off with
your own vehicle in the region.
EASTERN MONGOLIA

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Climate
HIGHLIGHTS Eastern Mongolia’s climate and landscape has
more in common with northeastern China KHENTII ХЭНТИЙ
„ Get on the Chinggis Khaan trail by working your way from his coronation site at Khökh Nuur than it does with Central Asia. Temperature pop 68,100 / area 82,000 sq km
(p171) to his childhood stomping grounds in Dadal (p173) extremes are less severe and winds less vio- Khentii is Chinggis Khaan territory. The
„ Hire some sturdy horses and set off on an lent than in the west. While the Khan Khentii great man grew up here, established his em-
expedition to holy Burkhan Khalduun mountains get a lot of rain in the summer, pire on its grasslands and, from Delgerkhaan,
(p172), the hill sacred to Chinggis Khaan as per-year precipitation on the steppes is around launched his military machine to the heart
described in The Secret History of the Mongols Burkhan
Khalduun
250mm. Winter daytime temperatures fall to of Asia. As a nomad empire the khaans left
Dadal
„ Climb the sacred Shiliin Bogd Uul (p183)
Khalkhiin
Gol
minus 20°C but skies are usually blue. few physical reminders of their existence, but
to restore your soul and then tour the area with a jeep, a copy of The Secret History of the
around Dariganga (p182), rich in cultural Khökh Nuur Nömrög Getting There & Away Mongols and a GPS unit you could launch
relics and eerie landscapes
Strictly
Protected
A paved road between Ulaanbaatar and your own expedition to scour the land for
Shiliin
Bogd Uul
Area Öndörkhaan is nearly complete, allowing clues to their past. So far researchers have
„ Travel across the empty steppes to the for a relatively hassle-free entry into the re- identified more than 50 historical sites relat-
war memorials at Khalkhiin Gol (Khalkhiin Dariganga
gion. Decent dirt roads connect other areas, ing to Chinggis Khaan’s life.
River; p179) and then spot wildlife, including although the far north can get boggy after The aimag is named for the Khentii Nuruu
moose and huge herds of gazelle, at nearby heavy rains. (Khentii Mountain Range), which covers the
Nömrög Strictly Protected Area (p174) Vehicles for Öndörkhaan depart from northwestern corner of the aimag and is part
Ulaanbaatar’s Naran Tuul jeep station. of the giant 1.2-million-hectare Khan Khentii
„ POPULATION: 195,100 „ AREA: 287,500 SQ KM
You can also get a ride with vehicles from Strictly Protected Area (most of which is in
 166 E A S T E R N M O N G O L I A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N M O N G O L I A 167

0 150 km
EASTERN MONGOLIA 0 75 miles

Mongol Daguur A
Strictly Protected
Area Solovyevsk
Erdeentsav
Chuluunkhoroot
l
RUSSIA Go
ol

h
c
Do Ulz G
Mongol Daguur B
Strictly Protected Khökh

Gurgen G
Area Nuur
Dashbalbar

Ugtam Uul

ol
Nature Reserve

Onon-Balj Bayandun Tagaan Ovoot Gurvanzagal CHINA

National Park Uul (1236m) Erdes
(Mardai)
Stone Bayan-Uul
Marker
Selenge

Gol
Khan Khentii Wall of Chingg
Ba

Strictly Protected Area Onon-Balj is Khaan

G Dadal
lj

National Park

on
ol
On
Khalun Us Rashant
Burkhan Yakh
ol

Eg G o Nuur
us G

Khalduun Norovlin Sergelen

Tsagaan-Ovoo

Gol
l

Ovoo Batshireet Choibalsan Khalkh Gol

Shu

en
Binder
ol

erl
G Ikh Yakolevchudiin
Barkh
l

Bayan-
Go

Deer Burkhant

Kh
Adraga Tank Khokhuu
n

Stones
Te

ya

el Öglögchiin Toson Khulstai Buir Yalaltiin

r

jG
Ba

Kherem Rashaan Choibalsan Nuur Khoshuu Sümber

ol Nature
l Baldan Khad
Tenuun Go Baraivan ol Reserve K ha
Bu

nt G lkhiin
gala
rk

Khiid Gol
Go Jar Kherlen Bar Bulgan
h

l Deer Khot
Möngönmorit Khangil
Nuur Stones Khölönbuir
Khentii Batnorov
Khökh
Nuur Berkh Bayan-Ovoo Dornod
Ömnödelger
Tsenkhermandal Khar Yamaat Nömrög
Bayandelger Natural Reserve Strictly
Idermeg Proposed Protected Area
Baganuur
Ölzit Jaraan Togoon Steppe
Tumentsogt Sangiin
Tse

M Nature Reserve Tamtsag Basin

ör Mörön Dalai
nk

Jargaltkhaan ön Oil Field Nuur

he

Go Öndörkhaan Matad
rii

l
n

Vangiin Tsagaan
Töv Man Stone
Go

(Khun Chuluu) Bayan Khutag Uul

l

(1099m)
Kherlen Delgerkhaan ol Dornod Mongol
EASTERN MONGOLIA

n G

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Bayan-Ulaan Mönkh Strictly Protected Area
rle Sükhbaatar
Bayanjargalan Chinggis Khe Khaan
Statue
Baruun-Urt
Bayanmönkh

Darkhan
Uulbayan Asgat

Galshir Tuvshinshiree Khalzan

Ikhkhet Erdenetsagaan
Choir
Sükhbaatar
Bor-Öndör Lkhachinvandad Uul
Tsonjiin Natural Reserve
Bayan
Tsogto Suma Chuluu
Taliin
Agui Shiliin Bogd Lkhachinvandad
Khurgiin Uul Uul
Dalanjargalan Senjit Bayandelger (1233m)
Delgerekh (1778m) CHINA
Dundgov Airag Khad Altan Khundii
Ovoo Toroi-Bandi
Bayanjargalan (1354m) Statue
Dornogov Ganga Nuur
Altanshiree Ongon Nature Reserve
Dariganga
Ikh Nart Ganga
Ganga
Nature Naran Nuur
Nuur
Reserve

Öndörshil

Sainshand

Orgon
 168 K H E N T I I • • Ö n d ö r k h a a n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H E N T I I • • Ö n d ö r k h a a n 169

the adjoining Töv aimag). Although none of Mongolian prince who governed most of east- Sleeping
the peaks is over 2000m, these mountains are ern Mongolia during the Manchu reign. One
ÖNDÖRKHAAN
CAMPING 0 500 m
well watered and heavily forested. The thickets building holds a portrait of the last Tsetseg If you want to camp, head south past the 0 0.3 miles

provide a home for wildlife and you stand a Khaan, painted in 1923. Other buildings con- wrestling stadium, and walk along the A B
good chance at seeing deer and elk. Marmots tain ethnic costumes, Mongolian toys and Kherlen Gol to the west until you’ve found
are ubiquitous. The lush scenery, however, some religious artefacts, such as statues and a quiet spot. 1 INFORMATION
can make jeep travel arduous business – ve- thangka (scroll paintings). On the museum Internet Café..........................................(see 2)
Mongol Shuudan Bank.............................1 B4
hicles get bogged and in some areas the best grounds is a ceremonial ger with delicately HOTELS Post Office.............................................(see 2)
way forward is on the back of a horse. carved wood furnishing and ornaments. It’s Jargalan Hotel (x23722, 9666 8694; dm T5000, half-lux Telecom Office.........................................2 B4

usually locked but you could ask the watch- T15,000, lux T20,000) Once a government guest- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
National Parks man to let you have a look inside. house, this place limps along as a hotel. Rooms Aimag Museum........................................3
Bronze Statue of Chinggis.........................4
B4
B4
Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area (1.2 million The small Aimag Museum (x23834; admission are falling apart and hot water comes in a ther- Chinggis Khaan Garden............................5 A4
hectares) Mostly in Töv aimag, the strictly protected area T1000; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat), north of the mos; some have a TV, although it shows just Ethnography Museum..............................6
Shadavdarjaliin Khiid................................7
B4
A4
includes the northwest corner of Khentii, protecting taiga, park, contains a mastodon tusk, a protocerat- one channel. If the hotel is empty the manager Stone Statue of Chinggis..........................8 B4
steppe and the sacred mountain Burkhan Khalduun. ops skull, some Chinggis Khaan–era armour is open to bargaining. The entrance is around 2 SLEEPING
Onon-Balj National Park (415,752 hectares) Protects and the usual array of stuffed animals, includ- the back of Government House. Erdes Hotel...............................................9 B4
Jargalan Hotel........................................10 B4
taiga and steppe along the Mongolia–Russia border. It’s ing a saluting bear. Khuvchin Jonon (x23845, 9956 2222; r per per- Khuvchin Jonon......................................11 B3
divided into two parts; part A is west of Dadal and Part B Shadavdarjaliin Khiid, in the western part son T10,000, half-lux per person T15,000, lux per person EATING
covers the area to the northeast. of town near the Sports Palace, is a lively T25,000) About 350m north of Government Nature Pub.............................................12 A4
place with a dozen or so monks. The original House, this newly constructed hotel of- Nunga Café............................................13 B4

ÖNDÖRKHAAN ӨНДӨРХААН monastery in this area was built in 1660 and fers 17 comfortable rooms, and is the best
Tiger Café...............................................14 B4

ὈὈ
x01562 / pop 15,200 / elev 1027m housed the first Buddhist philosophy school Öndörkhaan has to offer. It’s clean and the ENTERTAINMENT
Modern Disco Bar..................................15 A4
With tree-lined streets, a growing number in Mongolia. At its peak, the monastery was staff runs a tight ship. Standard rooms have
of Chinggis Khaan monuments and a small home to more than 1000 monks. In the spring a shared bathroom but other rooms have 3 TRANSPORT
Jeeps to Dadal........................................ 16 A4
collection of well-preserved 18th-century of 1938, the Stalinist purge reached Khentii private bathroom and shower. Breakfast is Minivan and Jeep Stand.........................17 A4
buildings, Öndörkhaan (High King) is east- and the monks were all arrested. The build- included in the price and laundry services
ern Mongolia’s most intriguing aimag capital. ings remained standing until the 1950s, when are available.

ὈὈ
11
The surrounding area is barren steppe, but they were torn down. Erdes Hotel (x23007; dm US$10, half-lux per person

Tsets
the Kherlen Gol flows through the southern A well-preserved Turkic-era balbal (GPS: N47° US$18, lux US$25) This overpriced Soviet dino- To Choibalsan

eg Kh
(324km)
part of Öndörkhaan, providing a fishing hole 16.722’, E110° 36.098’) is 7km west of Öndörkhaan, saur with its grumpy staff might be your

j
m

an Gu
da
Drama
for locals and riverside campsites for tourists. past the airport. The squat-figured statue, only option, as hotel rooms are scarce in

Gu
Theatre

damj
n
3

dii
Most of the residents live in wooden build- covered in blue silk hadak (ritual scarves), Öndörkhaan. The standard rooms are pretty

uu
10

ch
Government
ings, so gers are relatively few. has a disproportionately large head with pro- dishevelled and use a shared bathroom so 8

luu
4 Central House 13

Za
Park
Öndörkhaan is a useful pit stop on the nounced eyebrows and deep-set eyes. His long you might want to splash out on a half-lux To Ulaanbaatar
(331km) 7
Sports 14
4
6
9
EASTERN MONGOLIA

way to the sights in Dornod or Sükhbaatar, 5

EASTERN MONGOLIA
hair is curled behind his ears, an unusual fea- room. It’s on the main road, 150m west of Petrol
Station
Palace 2
1
but you don’t need to come here if you’re ture for this type of statue. Locals refer to the udamj
the Telecom office. 17 16 Temuj
iidiin G
12
exploring northern Khentii. The most in- statue as ‘Gelen’, a religious title. Indoor Hospital
15
Police
Station
teresting route to Dadal is not from the With Öndörkhaan being the capital of Eating & Drinking Market
To Airport (2km);
aimag capital but along the back roads Chinggis Khaan’s old stomping grounds, Nunga Café (x9905 3505; Temujiidiin Gudamj; meals Balbal (7km)
from Tsenkhermandal. local authorities have put much effort in T1000-2000; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Smart and col-
recent years towards elevating the conquer- ourful, this friendly café is a popular busi-
Information or’s cult status. Look out for a bronze statue of ness lunch spot. Despite the modern look of 5 Wrestling
Stadium
Internet café (x23695; per hr T680; h9am-10pm Chinggis seated on his horse; it’s just outside the place, the menu is a little bland, offer-
Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) In the Telecom office. the Ethnography Museum. The statue was ing the usual Mongolian meat-based dishes, Gol
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x23091) Changes dollars commissioned as part of the celebrations to soups and salads. But the owner speaks To Baruun-Urt Khe
rlen

and offers cash advances on Visa. Located one building mark 800 years of statehood, in 2006. Nearby, English and might be able to accommodate (229 km)

west of the Telecom office. opposite Government House, is a stone statue special requests.
Telecom office (x22125; h24hr) On the eastern of Chinggis. Tiger Café (x9956 9191; meals T1500-2000; h9am- Nature Pub (x9909 3701; Temujiidiin Gudamj; meals
end of the main road; the post office is also located here. The omnipresence of the great khaan is 8pm) Owned by the former Khentii governor, T2500-3800; hnoon-midnight) Chinggis Khaan would
complete with Chinggis Khaan garden, at the this café is one of the better places in town. feel quite at home downing pints in this rustic
Sights west end of Central Park. The site features Meals are served in sizzling iron dishes restaurant and pub. The red exterior leads into
The Ethnography Museum (x22187; admission a monument engraved with the image of an shaped like a cow, although promises of a dimly lit hall decorated with stretched goat
T1000, photos T1000; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat), approaching Mongol horde. It also contains fried fish on the menu are unfounded. It’s skins, wolf traps and compound bows. The
next to the City Hall, is housed inside the a list of the Mongol khaans with the dates on the 2nd floor of a distinctive green build- kitchen is probably the best in town, offering
18th-century home of the Tsetseg Khaan, a that they ruled. ing on the main street. up a variety of dishes from pork steaks to fish.
 170 K H E N T I I • • D e l g e r k h a a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com K H E N T I I • • K h ö k h N u u r 171

Entertainment Aral (Countryside Island), so named be- Kherlen Gol, 16km south of Baganuur. The thorities seized the site in an attempt to es-
Modern Disco Bar (Temujiidiin Gudamj; h9am-midnight) cause the area is encircled by the Kherlen only public transport here is the Friday postal tablish a private ger camp. CRTP was sadly
By day it’s a musty little café and by night and Tsenkheriin Gols. truck from Öndörkhaan (T4400). You might run out of town but no such camp was ever
a dark drinking den with a scratchy sound be able to hire a jeep or motorbike to see the built and neglect has left the fragile monastery
system and sticky dance floor. Sights local sights around Delgerkhaan. in danger of further rot. A manach (watch-
The main monument in the area is the Chinggis man) will ask for T2000 to visit the site; pay-
Getting There & Away Statue (GPS: N47° 06.157’, E109° 09.356’), 13km south of KHÖKH NUUR ХӨХ НУУР ing this fee would debilitate future efforts to
AIR Delgerkhaan village. It was built in 1990 under According to The Secret History of the Mongols, re-establish ecotourism in the area. You can
There are no flights to Öndörkhaan. the sponsorship of Unesco, to commemorate it was at Khökh Nuur (Blue Lake; GPS: N48° 01.150’, E108° take pictures from afar or explore the nearby
the 750th anniversary of the writing of The 56.450’) that Temujin first proclaimed himself a hills on foot.
HITCHING Secret History of the Mongols. The symbols khaan of the Mongol tribe. It’s a great place for The road to the monastery heads north
Öndörkhaan is the gateway for eastern on the side of the statue are the brands used a coronation site; a beautiful lake at the foot of from Khangil Nuur and goes straight over
Mongolia, so all vehicles heading to Dornod by about 300 different clans in the area for what is called Heart-Shaped Mountain. the hills, it is about 9km. A flatter but more
aimag and Sükhbaatar aimag will come marking their livestock. The lake is about 35km northwest of circuitous route goes northeast from Khangil
through here. Getting a lift to Ulaanbaatar, One kilometre east of the statue is the Avarga Tsenkhermandal (which is just north of the Nuur. The area is perfect for camping but the
Choibalsan and Baruun-Urt is compara- Toson Mineral Spring, from which Ögedei Khaan Ulaanbaatar–Öndörkhaan road). As you ap- closest place to stay is the Bayangol Ger Camp
tively easy. Rather than waiting on the road drank and was cured of a serious stomach proach the lake a caretaker from the nearby (x011-451 016, 9918 3067; GPS: N46° 09.621’, E105° 45.590’;
for a lift, it’s better to ask the drivers at the ailment. The spring is covered by an ovoo ger camp demands a fee of T1000, claiming with/without food US$30/15), 15km to the west.
jeep stands. (a shamanistic collection of stones), but you it’s a protected area (it’s not). The only other About 17km past the monastery, on the
can fill your water bottles at a pump house drawback is the flies that invade the place way to Binder, are two deer stones (GPS: N48°
BUS, MINIVAN & JEEP near the site. in midsummer. 11.916’, E109° 35.712’).
Daily buses journeying between Ulaanbaatar Japanese researchers claim that foundations You’ll need your own transport and a driver
and Choibalsan or Baruun-Urt make a pit of buildings from Avarga are located under- who knows where it is. Someone from nearby ÖGLÖGCHIIN KHEREM
stop in Öndörkhaan. Seats are limited and ground, between the statue and the spring. Tsenkhermandal might take you there by jeep ӨГЛӨГЧИЙН ХЭРЭМ
there is really no way to book in advance, but So far little has been uncovered. It’s unlikely or motorcycle. The area is sometimes labelled Literally ‘Almsgivers Wall’, but also known
when the buses roll through you could check that there would be much to find anyway, as Khar Zurkhen (Black Heart) on maps, which as ‘Chinggis Khaan’s Castle’ or ‘Red Rock’,
to see if space is available. the capital of Chinggis Khaan was made up refers to a mountain behind the lake. this 3.2km-long stone wall (GPS: N48° 24.443’, E110°
Daily jeeps and minivans go between mainly of felt gers. The Khökh Nuur Ger Camp (x9911 2825; per 11.812’), believed to date from the 8th century,
Ulaanbaatar and Öndörkhaan (T12,000, five person US$25) has popped up right by the lake; stretches around a rocky slope in Binder sum.
hours, 331km), most of which is paved. The Sleeping it’s the only place to stay in the area although It was once thought to be a defensive work
jeep stand, which is about 450m west of the CAMPING you can camp pretty much anywhere (camp- or a game preserve, but recent archaeologi-
park, also has vehicles to Choibalsan (T12,000, You can camp anywhere near the lake, though ers can use the hot shower for T3500). The cal digs by a Mongolian-American research
eight hours, 324km) and Baruun-Urt (T8000, it would help to have your own transport. camp has added some wood statues of the team have identified at least 60 ancient graves
five hours, 229km). Mongol khaans, each with a barely legible within the walls, indicating that it may have
EASTERN MONGOLIA

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Postal trucks run to Dadal (T8820) on GER CAMPS plaque describing their deeds. been a royal cemetery. As you walk inside the
Monday and Thursday, to Delgerkhaan Avarga Resort (per person/half-lux/lux T5800/9000/11,500) A further 49km away is the larger lake of grounds you may see small red signs, marking
(T4410) on Friday, to Binder (T6170) on This is the place to come if you have a burning Khangil Nuur (GPS: N48° 08.619’, E109° 22.132’). the location of graves excavated in 2002. The
Tuesday and to Batshireet (T6600) on desire to join Mongolian families on holiday. nearby wooden cabins used by the researchers
Wednesday; they usually leave in the early The rather run-down resort offers hot-water BALDAN BARAIVAN KHIID now lie dormant. The site is 8km west of the
morning. You could hire your own jeep at the bathrooms or you could bury yourself in БАЛДАН БАРАИВАН ХИЙД road to Binder.
stand, but many private cars also seem to hang mud on the shores of the lake. The two small This monastery (GPS: N48° 11.910’, E109° 25.840’; admis- Close to the turn-off to Öglögchiin Kherem
around on the main street, near the market. lakes behind the resort are said to contain sion T2000) in Ömnödelger sum was first built in is Rashaan Khad (GPS: N48° 22.766’, E110° 17.950’), a
curative properties. The resort is 4km west 1700. At its peak it was one of the three largest huge rock with 20 different types of (barely
DELGERKHAAN ДЭЛГЭРХААН of Delgerkhaan. monasteries in Mongolia and home to 5000 discernable) script carved upon it. About 2km
Despite the historical significance of the area, Khödöö Aral (x011-57 855, 9915 8698; per per- lamas. It was destroyed by communist thugs past the turn-off towards Binder are more deer
there’s little to actually see in Delgerkhaan, son with/without food US$24/10) Run by Ikh Zasag in the 1930s and by fire in the 1970s. Now stones (GPS: N48° 25.098’, E110° 17.825’).
the sum (region) capital. Veering off the University, it’s not a particularly attractive ger only ruins remain, but impressive ruins they
Ulaanbaatar–Öndörkhaan paved road makes camp, but it does have hot showers. It’s 7km are. Near the monastery is the Eej (Mother) BINDER & BATSHIREET
it even less attractive these days, but if you west of the Avarga Resort. Cave, which acts a purifying place for anyone БИНДЭР & БАТШИРЭЭТ
have a special interest in Chinggis Khaan then who passes through it. At the confluence of the Khurkh and Onon
coming makes sense. Getting There & Around The US-based Cultural Restoration Tourism Gols, the village of Binder is a good place to
Locals, and some historians, claim that Delgerkhaan is close to the regional centres of Project (CRTP; www.crtp.net) made attempts to re- rest on your way to or from Dadal. There are
Avarga, not Karakorum, was the first capital Öndörkhaan (124km) and Baganuur (95km). store the monastery in the early 2000s (the a couple of cafés, a ger camp (with food US$20) 7km
of the Mongol empire. The ancient tent-city If you are hitching, cars from Ulaanbaatar wood posts in the temple are their work). from the village and a small Chinggis Khaan
was located on a 20km-wide plain, Khödöö turn off the main road at the bridge over the Progress was halted in 2005 when local au- monument 2km east of the village. If you are
 172 K H E N T I I • • B u r k h a n K h a l d u u n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H E N T I I • • D a d a l 173

Around 22km due north of Burkhan his birth, but it’s a great place to come into
THE GREAT TABOO Khalduun (as the falcon flies) is Khalun Us the world: the scenery and hiking around the
For the Mongols, disposing of a corpse has always been tricky business. According to steppe tradi- Rashant (Hot Water Springs; GPS: N48° 57.206’, E109° valleys and forests are superb.
tion, a person was left exposed to the elements to be consumed by wild animals. In some cases 00.217’). The site has more than a dozen hot There’s a more impressive Chinggis Khaan
a person would be buried but the grave left unmarked to thwart grave robbers, who would not springs, a collection of log bathhouses and Statue in the Gurvan Nuur camp, built in 1962
only steal possessions but also disturb the remains, thus destroying the soul of the deceased. a small Buddhist temple (built in honour of to commemorate the 800th anniversary of
Thus when Chinggis Khaan died in 1227 his inner circle went to extraordinary lengths to ensure Zanabazar who frequented the site). You can Chinggis’ birth. The monument was built at
secrecy of his grave. According to lore, a burial guard slew everyone en route to the grave. Then, also reach the area by horse from Batshireet the height of the communist era and after it
at the grave site, thousands of horses were raced over the tomb to conceal its location. (Another (it’s possible to drive there in winter when the was complete the president purged the folks
theory states that a river was temporarily diverted and Chinggis was buried in the riverbed.) The ground freezes). who built it. Somehow the monument itself
burial guard was then killed by 800 soldiers who themselves were massacred upon their return was allowed to stand.
to the capital. Still today, the Mongols consider disturbing the grave of Chinggis to be ‘The Great DADAL ДАДАЛ About 2.2km west of Deluun Boldog is the
Taboo’, an act that would invite natural calamity. As written in The Secret History of the Khajuu Bulag (GPS: N49° 02.767’, E111° 36.865’) min-
Flying in the face of local beliefs, various expeditions, often with Japanese and American Mongols, it is now generally accepted that eral water springs, where the great man once
assistance and technology, have attempted to locate the grave. The attraction is obvious – the the great Chinggis was born at the junction drank. Take your water bottles and fill them to
tomb may contain millions, if not billions of dollars worth of gold, silver, precious stones and of the Onon and Balj Gols (though his date of the brim because this is the freshest (flowing)
other priceless religious artefacts (as well as many women, men and horses who were buried alive birth is still subject to great conjecture). The spring water you will ever taste. You could
with the khaan). But with so few clues, the teams are left to search for the proverbial needle in assumed spot is in Dadal sum, near the town also hike up into the hills behind town, where
the haystack. The chances of digging in the right spot seem infinitely remote. of the same name. there is a large ovoo.
A Japanese team spent three years probing Khödöö Aral (near modern Delgerkhaan) before Dadal is a gorgeous area of lakes, rivers, for- For an offbeat adventure, you could drop
giving up, none the wiser. The Americans, working mainly at Öglögchiin Kherem near Binder, ests and log huts (very few people live in gers), by the home of Zundoi Davag, an old hunter
were forced to end their search in 2003 after a storm of protest by a retired politician native reminiscent of Siberia, which is only 25km to who has built a private museum filled with
to the area. the north. Even if you are not a Chinggisphile, the animals he has trapped over the years.
Neither team achieved any earth-shattering results. On the contrary, the search only seemed there is no shortage of scenery to admire and Zundoi will be happy to show you his trophies
to fuel local resentment of foreign archaeologists, not to mention waste millions of dollars that hike around in. It wouldn’t be hard to stay and regale you with hunting stories, if you can
could otherwise have been spent on regional development. With these failures, the search has here a few days (which may be necessary any- find him. He will also let you practise shooting
cooled for the moment, giving Chinggis Khaan’s soul a chance to momentarily rest in peace. way unless you have rented a jeep). The down- his bow and arrow. His camp moves with the
side is that it often rains here in summer. seasons but a local should be able to take you
The 415,752-hectare Onon-Balj National Park, there on horseback.
travelling onto Dadal you’ll need to cross the your permit, original passport and trek- extending north from the village towards
Onon Gol, just north of town. When the river king route. If you’ve come without a permit Russia, offers enticing camping spots, fish- Activities
is high locals will offer to tow you across for you can probably buy one for T2000 at the ing holes and chances for spotting wildlife. There are several hiking and horse-riding routes
T7000 with a tractor. police office. Buy your national park ticket (T3000) in the out of Dadal. Locals recommend the 30km
Batshireet, 45km northwest, is worth the Government House. hike to the junction of the Onon and Balj
detour for some excellent camping, fishing BURKHAN KHALDUUN
EASTERN MONGOLIA

Gols, or the 45km trek further along the

EASTERN MONGOLIA
and horse-riding opportunities. From this БУРХАН ХАЛДУУН Information Onon Gol to the gorge at the confluence of
small Buriat community of 3000 souls you can This remote mountain, known as God’s Hill, Dadal is in a sensitive border area so it would the Onon and Agats Gols. You’ll need to in-
follow the Eg Gol to the Onon and trek back in the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area be wise to register with the police (T2000). If form the border patrol of your itinerary and
to Binder. More challenging trails lead west is one of the sites mooted as the burial place you are heading any further out of town, it it would be wise to take a guide. Ask at the ger
towards the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected of Chinggis Khaan. More than 800 burial would also be a good idea to register with the camps or track down Dorjsuren, who runs the
Area and Burkhan Khalduun. sites have been found in the region, though border guards, on the western side of Dadal. guesthouse (p174).
The town has a couple of basic hotels, in- the main tomb is yet to be found. Whether Don’t expect anyone to speak English. At the There is good fishing in the area but per-
cluding Altan Endert (per person T10,000) located or not Chinggis was buried here, The Secret time of writing there were plans to build a mits are almost impossible to get unless you
near the Telecom office. It can arrange horses History of the Mongols does describe how the tourist information centre in town. have gone through a licensed tour operator.
for T5000 per day. There is fine camping in khaan hid here as a young man and later Some locals get away with fishing illegally
Batshireet; the best spots are 7km north of returned to give praise to the mountain and Sights but if you get caught there could be hell
town on the Onon Gol. Camping is also al- give thanks for his successes. About 3.5km north of Dadal village is a collec- to pay.
lowed behind the Protected Areas office. The Because of its auspicious connections, tion of hills known as Deluun Boldog. On top of
information officer, Tsetsegmaa, can also ar- Mongolians climb the mountain, which is one of the hills is a stone marker (GPS: N49° 03.158’, Sleeping
range horses for a pack trip. She has accom- topped with many ovoo (GPS: N48° 45.430’, E109° E111° 38.590’), built in 1990 to commemorate CAMPING
modation in her home for T3000 per night. 00.300’), to gain strength and good luck. The the 750th anniversary of the writing of The This is perfect camping country, so if you
Because it’s near Russia, you’ll need hill itself is in a very remote location. To get Secret History of the Mongols. The inscrip- have your own tent and food supplies there
a permit for Batshireet from the Border there you’ll need to head to Möngönmorit tion says that Chinggis Khaan was born here is no need to stay in a hotel or ger camp.
Protection Office in Ulaanbaatar. Expect a in Töv, and then travel north along the in 1162. Some historians may not be entirely Just find a secluded spot away from the vil-
visit from the police, who will want to see Kherlen Gol. convinced about the exact date or location of lage and set up camp.
 174 D O R N O D • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com D O R N O D • • C h o i b a l s a n 175

GER CAMPS & RESORTS

Khongor’s Ger Camp (per person T5000) Next to the
Naadam Stadium, this new place has basic
DORNOD ДОРНОД in the transition zone from the eastern Monglian steppe to
the mountains and forest of Manchuria.
In 1941 it was named after the Stalinist
stooge Khorloogiin Choibalsan, an honour
pop 74,600 / area 123,500 sq km Toson Khulstai (469,928 hectares) Protects large herds bequeathed while the dictator was still in
accommodation and meals. of white-tailed gazelle; easy detour if travelling between power. It’s now a major economic centre
One of Mongolia’s most stunning landscapes,
Chinggisiin Gurvan Nuur (Three Lakes; GPS: N49° Khentii and Dornod. for eastern Mongolia.
Dornod is pure steppe, with pancake-flat
02.005’, E111° 39.267’; per person T10,000, hot shower T1000)
grasslands in all directions. There are few
This resort has a nice location on the shore of The aimag also has several nature reserves, Orientation
roads, towns or fences, making this an im-
a lake about 2km from Dadal village. Meals are including Ugtam Uul (46,160 hectares) and Although the city is spread out along a nar-
portant ecological zone and habitat for white-
T1500. There are no gers. A good hiking trail Yakh Nuur (251,388 hectares). row 5km corridor north of the Kherlen Gol,
tailed gazelle, which can outrun even the best
starts from the back of the camp. most of the facilities needed by visitors are
jeep driver.
Onon (bed & 3 meals around US$30) Between Gurvan
Nuur and the village, by the monastery, is this
Dornod, which means ‘east’, has a number CHOIBALSAN ЧОЙБАЛСАН near the Kherlen hotel. The market is 1.5km
of worthy attractions, geared for both his- x01582 / pop 39,800 / elev 747m east of the main square. The train station is
ger camp, which opens in summer when there Lying on the banks of the Kherlen Gol, about 5.5km past the market.
torians and ecotourists. These include Buir
is demand, which isn’t often. 324km downstream from Öndörkhaan, is
Nuur and Khalkhiin Gol, both the scenes of
fierce fighting against the Japanese; Khökh Choibalsan, Mongolia’s easternmost capital Information
GUESTHOUSES Nuur, the lowest point in the country; and and the regional centre for trade and industry. Eastern Mongolia Strictly Protected Areas Office
oGuesthouse (GPS: N49° 01.280’, E111° 38.562’; some lovely nature reserves. If you’ve already The city has a better-than-average selection of (x23373, 9986 3888; fax 22217; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
per person about T6000) Dorjsuren, a retired maths visited other more popular areas of Mongolia, hotels, plenty of shops and one of Mongolia’s Next to the Tovan hotel, this office can supply information
teacher, runs a hostel next to his home. The Dornod offers scope for some challenging, busiest markets. It’s fractured in two parts, on visiting protected areas in both Dornod and Sükhbaatar
classic Buriat-style lodge includes a toilet offbeat exploration. a half-abandoned district to the west and a aimags. It can also arrange permits and sell tickets to
and hot-water shower block (a shower costs The northern sums of Bayan-Uul, Bayandun more functional eastern section, where most protected areas and nature reserves.
T1000). There’s a cast-iron stove for cooking and Dashbalbar are home to the Buriats, who of the action takes place. Golomt Bank (x22702) Gives cash advances against
and Dorjsuren can hunt down bread, eggs, still practise shamanism. If you ask around Centuries ago, the city was a trading Visa and MasterCard. Next to Khishig Supermarket.
milk, cream and vegetables. It is a 10-minute you may be able to meet a shaman or, if you centre and part of a caravan route across Internet Centre (x21530; per hr T500; h8am-10pm
walk southeast of the centre, across the river, are lucky, watch a shamanist ceremony in Central Asia. It grew into a town in the Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Next to the Telecom office.
but there is no sign, so ask for directions from these areas. 19th century and was called Bayan Tumen. Library Internet Café (per hr T500; h10am-6pm)
the Telecom office. Dorjsuren can arrange a
variety of activities in the area. National Parks 0 600 m
CHOIBALSAN 0 0.4 miles
Thankfully, the authorities have been con-
Eating vinced that the area’s fragile environment A B C D
Dadal has a few guanz (canteens/restaurants) and the endangered fauna and flora need INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING
that serve up hot soup and goulash, the best to be conserved. Dornod aimag is cur- Eastern Mongolia Strictly Protected Areas Aimag Museum & Gallery................6 A2 Khishig Supermarket.......................14 B2
of which is probably Buren Khaan Tsainy Gazar rently the base of a multimillion-dollar 1
Office..........................................1 C2
Golomt Bank................................(see 14)
Danrig Danjaalin Khiid......................7
Mongolian Heroes' Memorial...........8
C2
A3
Nice Café........................................15 B3
Orgil..............................................16 C2
(meals T1000-2000). environmental-protection project. This mas- Internet Centre...............................(see 4) Natural History Museum..................9 A3 Venera.........................................(see 15)
EASTERN MONGOLIA

Library Internet Café........................2 C2

EASTERN MONGOLIA
sive project involves researching everything Post Office.......................................3 B2 SLEEPING SHOPPING
Getting There & Away from forest fires to field mice in an attempt Telecom Office.................................4 B2
Trade & Development Bank..............5 B2
Chadanguud..................................10
Enkh Ursgal....................................11
C2
C2
Market...........................................17 D3

JEEP to protect one of the world’s last undisturbed Kherlen..........................................12 C2 TRANSPORT

One minivan or jeep a day usually goes to grasslands. The Strictly Protected Areas (SPA) Tovan.............................................13 C2 AeroMongolia..............................(see 12)
EZ Nis.............................................18 B2
Ulaanbaatar (T22,000, 515km). The journey of the aimag include the following: 7
16 Police Teeveriin Tovchoo Parking Lot.......19 C3

ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
takes anywhere from 12 hours up to 35 hours Dornod Mongol (570,374 hectares) Holds one of the Station

after heavy rains. last great plain ecosystems on earth, protecting seas of

Bayantumen
A postal truck travels from Öndörkhaan feather-grass steppe and 70% of Mongolia’s white-tailed 2 Border Patrol
Barracks j
am
ud
(T8820) every Monday and Thursday morn- gazelle, which roam in herds of up to 20,000. uta
nG
Oy
ing at around 8.30am. Most traffic from Mongol Daguur (103,016 hectares) The reserve is di-

Gudamj
To Öndörkhaan 18 10
6
Öndörkhaan takes the road via Norovlin. vided into a northern ‘A’ and southern ‘B’ section. Mongol (324km);
Baruun-Urt Choibalsan 5 11 13
14 3 4
There are few vehicles for hire in Dadal, Daguur A is hill steppe and wetland bordering on Russia’s (191km) Statue

ὈὈὈὈ
Drama 2 12 1
9 Theatre 15 19 17
but if you ask around the shops something Tarij Nuur and Daurski Reserve, protecting endemic species
8
Kherlen
Örgön Ch
Kherlen Örgön Chölöö
ölöö Hospital Park
should be available. Expect to pay T450 such as the Daurian hedgehog; Mongol Daguur B, along Stadium

l
Go
per kilometre. the Ulz Gol, protects the tsen togoruu (white-naped crane) To Train Station (5km);
Kherlen
For travel from Dadal to Öndörkhaan and other endangered birds. The area is part of a one- Airport (8km)

or Dornod (but not Binder) you’ll need to million-hectare international reserve, linking the Siberian 3
cross the Onon Gol at a lone bridge crossing taiga with the inner-Asian steppe. Fields
(GPS: N48° 50.403’, E111° 38.746’). Dadal is Nömrög (311,205 hectares) An unpopulated area, which
254km north by northeast of Öndörkhaan contains rare species of moose, crane, otter and bear. Eco-
and 301km northwest of Choibalsan. logically distinct from the rest of Mongolia, the area takes
 176 D O R N O D • • C h o i b a l s a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com D O R N O D • • K h e r l e n B a r K h o t 177

One building east of the Telecom office, the public library Sleeping Shopping any other vehicle in or out of the city should
has good internet connection. CAMPING Choibalsan’s proximity to China means that not be difficult. Hang around the market and
Post office (Kherlen Örgön Chölöö) Next door to the The best place to camp is anywhere south of its market (h9am-7pm) is better stocked com- keep asking.
Telecom office. the main street; walk for a few hundred metres pared with other aimag capitals. It has lots
Telecom office (x21861; Kherlen Örgön Chölöö; and you will be sharing some great spots along of fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as an TRAIN
h24hr) the Kherlen Gol with a few curious cows. interesting shop selling ger furniture, saddles, A direct rail line from Choibalsan to Russia
Trade & Development Bank (T&D Bank; x23009; Mongolian hats and boots. The back of the was built in 1939 to facilitate the joint Soviet–
h9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Gives cash advances market plays host to gambling stalls where Mongolian war effort against Japan. It still
HOTELS
against Visa and MasterCard. About 350m northwest of the locals play cards, dominoes and shagai (a dice functions, albeit only twice weekly. As a for-
Kherlen (x29058, 5058 1250; Kherlen Örgön Chölöö; eigner, you can go as far as Chuluunkhoroot
Telecom office. per person r T7500, half-lux T25,000, lux T31,000) This game using anklebones).
on the Mongolian side of the border (no per-
friendly hotel, next to the library, has reno-
Sights vated rooms with toilet and some with shower.
Getting There & Away mit is apparently required), but the train no
AIR longer carries passengers across the border
MUSEUMS & MEMORIALS A common hot shower (T800) is available for
AeroMongolia (x9958 8735) has an office in the and only travels to Russia to pick up fuel.
The Aimag Museum & Gallery (x21940; admis- visitors in the standard rooms. A sauna is an Kherlen hotel building. It flies here from The train leaves Choibalsan at 4pm every
sion T1000; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri), in the former additional T2500. Ulaanbaatar three days a week (US$119/212 Monday and Thursday and takes seven hours.
Government House in the old part of Enkh Ursgal (x21666; s/d T8000/12,000, half-lux The return trip leaves Chuluunkhoroot at
one way/return). EZ Nis (x21177, 9904 9934) is
town, is one of the best of its kind outside s/d T12,000/18,000, lux s/d T20,000/28,000) Rooms at 8.30pm on Tuesday and Friday. These times
in a building near the Trade & Development
of Ulaanbaatar. It contains some interest- this new hotel are small but well maintained. will almost certainly change and you may be
Bank. It also flies here three days a week
ing paintings, fascinating old photos, some Only the lux rooms have a shower. It’s behind (US$131/236 one way/return). The airport told that the train takes only cargo. Call for
Choibalsan memorabilia and a giant bowl, the library. is about 10km east of the centre; buses, jeeps more info at the station (x21502). Tickets cost
made in 1861, which is large enough to boil Tovan (x21551; Kherlen Örgön Chölöö; half-lux s/d and minivans sometimes go there. T2000 for hard seat (the only class).
mutton for 500 people (the mind boggles, the T10,000/15,000, lux s/d T21,000/30,000) Rooms are The train moves very slowly but this re-
stomach churns). The aimag map marks the large, reasonably clean and come with at- BUS, MINIVAN & JEEP mains one of the most unique experiences you
location of some ruined monasteries. tached toilet. The lux room, with shower, also A daily bus departs for Ulaanbaatar (T15,800, can have in Mongolia. Take food and plenty
The Natural History Museum (h10am-7pm includes breakfast. 13 hours) at 8am from the market. Going the of water as the carriage can get stiflingly hot
Mon-Fri), on the western side of the square, oChadanguud (x22355; r T17,000, half-lux other way it leaves Ulaanbaatar’s Bayanzürkh during the day.
houses a collection of stuffed wildlife from T24,000, lux T30,000; i) Choibalsan’s newest hotel, bus station at the same time. The train station is about 7km northeast of
around the aimag, plus exhibits on geology 250m north of the library, is also its best. It Minivans and jeeps run along the good road the centre. You can reach the station by bus,
and flora. It’s free if you’ve already paid for has clean rooms with cable TV (including between Ulaanbaatar and Choibalsan daily but go early, because close to departure time
the Aimag Museum. BBC news), reliable internet and 24-hour (T20,000, 655km), departing Ulaanbaatar the buses make a sardine tin look spacious.
Choibalsan’s Mongolian Heroes’ Memorial, in hot water. It also does laundry for T1000 per from the Naran Tuul jeep station. Minivans
the western town square, is one of the more kilogram. As a social hub, the place does get depart Choibalsan in the morning from the KHERLEN BAR KHOT
dramatic pieces of Stalinist architecture in busy, with lots of people using the billiards Teeveriin Tovchoo parking lot at the eastern ХЭРЛЭН БАР ХОТ
EASTERN MONGOLIA

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Mongolia. It is a large arch with a soldier on hall downstairs. The complimentary breakfast end of town. Daily vans and the odd jeep to These small-scale ruins (GPS: N48° 03.287’, E113°
horseback charging towards the enemy. A is fairly lamentable. Öndörkhaan (T10,000, 324km), Baruun-Urt 21.865’) and 10m-high tower from a 12th-
Soviet tank next to the monument adds a (T10,000, 191km) and, less frequently, nearby century city were once part of the ancient
quaint reminder of who really was boss. Eating sums such as Bayandun (T8000) leave from state of Kitan. You can see a picture of the
Nice Café (x9958 7677; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat) the same lot or from the market. You can tower in the Aimag Museum & Gallery in
DANRIG DANJAALIN KHIID Pleasant atmosphere, and pretty good gou- charter a jeep for T450 per kilometre. Choibalsan (opposite).
ДАНРИГ ДАНЖААЛИН ХИЙД lash and khuurag (fried meat chunks) make Postal minivans travel to Khalkhiin Gol Kherlen Bar Khot is about 90km west
According to the chief monk, this monastery a popular stand-by in Choibalsan. A few steps (T10,500, Wednesday), Dashbalbar (T6500, of Choibalsan, on the main road between
was built around 1840 and was once very west of the Khishig Supermarket. Monday), Bayandun (T6300, Tuesday) and Choibalsan and Öndörkhaan. It is worth a
active. It contained three northern temples Venera (x9951 9309; h10am-midnight) Next to Bayan Uul (T7200, Wednesday). look if you have your own vehicle.
and four southern temples, but less than half the Nice Café, Venera has similar meals, and The roads in the northern part of Dornod
the 800 monks could be accommodated at some Chinese dishes.
are often buried under mud in late summer, WALL OF CHINGGIS KHAAN
one time, so most had to pray outside. It was Orgil (x21199) Decent Chinese restaurant
but roads to the other eastern aimag capitals ЧИНГИСИЙН ХЭРЭМ
are OK. The border crossing into Russia from Stretching over 600km from Khentii aimag
closed in 1937. with a bona fide Chinese chef. It’s in the
Chuluunkhoroot was opened to foreigners in to China, and through all of Dornod, are the
The monastery reopened in 1990 and has northern part of town, near the monastery. ruins of the Wall of Chinggis Khaan. This
2004, although so far it sees little traffic; see
two small temples where about 15 monks wor- Self-caterers can shop for groceries at p178 for more information. is not promoted by Mongolian tourist au-
ship. The monks are particularly friendly; we the Khishig Supermarket (h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, thorities because it was not built, or used, by
were warmly welcomed and allowed to watch noon-7pm Sat), next to the post office. Both the HITCHING Chinggis Khaan, but almost certainly created
a ceremony. The monastery is about 400m Tovan and the Kherlen hotels have decent Choibalsan is a large city by Mongolian by the Manchu to limit frequent raids from
behind the Kherlen hotel. restaurants. standards, so hitching a ride on a truck or rampaging Mongolian hordes.
 178 D O R N O D • • U g t a m U u l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D O R N O D • • B u i r N u u r 179

BUIR NUUR БУЙР НУУР Mongolian soldiers who died here. The monu-
GAZELLE This vast lake in eastern Mongolia is well ments are easy to find as they are all along
A highlight of eastern Mongolia, as you bounce along in your jeep, is the sight of thousands known for the large stocks of fish. Amur Carp the road from Khalkhiin Gol to Sümber. The
of Mongolian gazelle darting across the steppes. When pre-eminent biologist George Schaller is the main species of fish in the lake, although Yakolevchudiin Tank Khoshuu (Monument for Yakolev
first visited in 1989 he proclaimed the immense herds to be one of the world’s greatest wildlife it also contains taimen, grayling and lenok, Tank Brigade; GPS: N47° 48.810’, E113° 32.850’) is located
spectacles. among others. Most of the fish end up on the 23km northwest of Sümber. The largest
Sadly, indiscriminate poaching for subsistence and bush-meat sale has reduced their numbers plates of Chinese restaurants as the northern memorial is the 10m-high Yalaltiin Khoshuu,
by as much as 50% in the past 10 years and it’s harder to find such large herds these days, but shore is actually in China. The 40km lake has a located just outside Sümber town.
they do exist. It’s believed that up to 200,000 of these creatures are illegally shot every year, maximum depth of 50m and is especially pop- A museum (admission T1000) in Sümber (marked
about 20% of their entire population. Gazelle are especially prized by Chinese and Mongolians ular with mosquitoes so bring lots of repellent on some maps as Khalkhgol) offers some
for their meat, skins and horns: in China each one fetches from Y70 to Y100 (US$8.50 to US$12). or you’ll need a blood transfusion! explanations (in Mongolian) about the his-
There is a growing foreign souvenir market for gazelle-leg horse-whips (US$15) – please do not The lake is also great for bird-watching. tory of the battles. The friendly caretaker will
purchase these. Head for the northeast area around the show you around the museum and probably
Habitat loss to overgrazing, road construction and the erection of barriers further puts their Khalkhiin Gol delta. issue you a commemorative pin to mark your
numbers at risk. Mining is another threat: oil exploration in southern Dornod has brought large- Halfway between the lake and Choibalsan, visit. There is no electricity so bring a torch to
scale infrastructure and thousands of workers into a once-uninhabited region. a local family has erected an Eco-ger (per person see the exhibits. A small hotel (per person T5000)
The New York–based Wildlife Conservation Society (www.wcs.org) has been researching the T5000) for passing tourists. The family that runs in Sümber, about 200m from the museum,
migration habits and ecological needs of these animals for nearly a decade and these findings the place can provide meals. The turn-off to has a pit toilet and electricity powered by
have been provided to the Mongolian government. Specialists remain hopeful that the govern- the ger is marked with a sign. a generator.
ment will endorse conservation plans and efforts to reverse the decline can begin. The only way to Buir Nuur is by chartered Another interesting site in the region is Ikh
jeep from Choibalsan, 285km away over a flat Burkhant (GPS: N48° 03.287’, E113° 21.865’), where there
dirt road, which occasionally gets flooded. is a huge image of Janraisag (‘Avalokitesvara’ in
You will need a guide and jeep to find what Khökh Nuur is visible from the railway Sanskrit) carved into the hillside. The carving
little remains from the ravages of vandals and line; you can get off the train at a stop near SANGIIN DALAI NUUR was commissioned in 1864 by local regent
time, though it’s doubtful whether it’s worth the lake, and then reboard the train the next САНГИЙН ДАЛАЙ НУУР Bat Ochiriin Togtokhtooriin, or Tovan (van
the effort. Locals know it as the Chingissiin day in the afternoon. This saltwater lake (GPS: N46° 56.430’, E116° 52.535’), means ‘lord’) and was reconstructed between
Zam, or Chinggis’ Rd, which gives some indi- in the southern part of the aimag, has a pro- 1995 and 1997. The carving is right on the
cation of just how worn down the wall has be- CHULUUNKHOROOT ductive freshwater spring at one end. The 10 roadside, about 32km northwest of Sümber.
come. The best place to start looking is about ЧУЛУУНХОРООТ or so families that live in the area harvest salt Going the other direction, it’s another 70km
two-thirds of the way along the northern road The small village of Chuluunkhoroot (Stone from the lake using traditional methods. or so to the spectacular but remote Nömrög
from Choibalsan to the Russian border, near Corral) is right at the border crossing with From the lake you can travel another 29km Strictly Protected Area. The protected area only
the village of Gurvanzagal. Russia. There is no accommodation but it southwest to Vangiin Tsagaan Uul (GPS: N46° 41.490’, receives a handful of visitors each year, but
does have a few shops. Locals with motor- E117° 00.436’). From the top of the hill you are those that go are rewarded with virgin fields
UGTAM UUL УГТАМ УУЛ bikes can ride you out to Mongol Daguur B, 400m above one of the flattest and most re- and pine forests untouched by livestock or
EASTERN MONGOLIA

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Ugtam mountain (1236m) is part of the Ugtam a protected area along the Ulz Gol and im- mote places on the planet, which makes for humans. The border post (GPS: N46° 59.019’, E119°
Uul Nature Reserve (46,160 hectares), which portant habitant for wader birds. The pro- great views in the early morning or evening. 21.522’) at Nömrög is as far as you can go by ve-
also includes the nearby Tsagaan Ovoot Uul tected area has a couple of eco-gers (per night East of the hill you’ll encounter vegetated hicle. The border guards can rent you horses
(1236m) and the ruins of some monasteries, sand dunes that provide a home for wolves, at inflated prices (around T15,000 per day)
T5000), guest gers run by local families. The
one of which has recently reopened. The park gazelle, roe deer and the occasional herd of for further explorations of the SPA. A border
train ride here from Choibalsan is definitely
is situated along the Ulz Gol in the northwest wild boar. guard must accompany you in the SPA.
one of the most unique transport experiences Khalkhiin Gol is about 325km from
of the aimag, about 35km from the village About 50km due east of Sangiin Dalai
in Mongolia. Nuur is the Tamtsag Basin oil field. From Choibalsan. If you ask around the market in
of Bayandun. The actual border, just 3km away, is here you could hook up with the oil trans- Choibalsan a shared van (T14,000) may even-
called Ereentsav. The Russian side of the port road that heads toward Erdenetsagaan tually turn up bound for Sümber, but from
KHÖKH NUUR ХӨХ НУУР border is called Solovyevsk. Locals ship in Sükhbaatar aimag. here you’d still need to hire a vehicle to visit
The lowest point in Mongolia is Khökh Nuur, cargo across the border on the train, but the sights. While this may be a cheap way to
a medium-sized freshwater lake at an altitude it’s also possible to drive or walk across. If KHALKHIIN GOL ХАЛХЫН ГОЛ go if you are alone, it’s better to hire your own
of 560m. Other than the thrill of standing you have a Russian visa, this makes for an The banks of the Khalkhiin Gol, in the far vehicle and split the cost between travellers.
in the lowest part of the country, there isn’t interesting crossing; you can hitch a ride to eastern part of Dornod, are of particular in-
much to keep you here, though the lake has a Borzya, a small Russian city on the Trans- terest to war historians because of the battles Permits
subtle beauty and you could combine it with Manchurian rail route, and then continue against the Japanese in 1939. The region is Khalkhiin Gol is near the Chinese border and
an exploration of the Wall of Chinggis Khaan. by road or rail to Chita and Ulaan Ude. about a nine-hour drive east of Choibalsan. a military base and there are three military
The lake is also an important migration point Expect a serious passport check at the bor- Numerous war memorials are found in the checks en route from Choibalsan. You’ll need
for birds and you can spot many waders and der as it’s rarely used and you’ll draw lots of area. The memorials are real socialist mas- a border permit issued from Ulaanbaatar to
shore birds here. attention. terpieces, built to honour the Russian and get through them.
 180 S Ü K H B A ATA R • • B a r u u n - U r t lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S Ü K H B A ATA R • • B a r u u n - U r t 181

It is possible that you’ll need two per- locals have found employment at a nearby
mits: your border permit and a second one Chinese-invested zinc mine, or at the coal
BARUUN-URT 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
7
issued at the checkpoints on the way to mine 7km to the northwest. A B C To Choibalsan D
(191km)
Khalkhiin Gol (which shouldn’t cost more One surreal image you can get in Baruun-
8
than T1000). Urt occurs in the cold season when it’s pos- Police
Station
The permit given at Sümber (for Nömrög) sible to walk out into the empty, barren, 1
may be fake (ie some guards there sell fake frozen steppe and feel as if you’ve landed SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Erdenemandal Khiid....................5 B1
permits and keep the money for themselves). on the moon. The ground underneath your Market
Museum.....................................6 B2
If you have a border permit from the bor- feet, however, contains high levels of sulphur, Naadam
5 12 11 1
Pavilion......................................7 D1
Stadium
der office in Ulaanbaatar (which should be which has seeped into the local water supply – Square 10 SLEEPING
Department
free) you could probably get past the border you are better off buying bottled water or Store
9 2 Sükhbaatar
Statue
Ganga Hotel..............................8 D1
Sharga Hotel .............................9 C2
guards at Sümber, without risking having to filtering the tap water. 3 4
Sports Tansag Hotel............................10 C1
buy a phoney permit. To Öndörkhaan
INFORMATION Palace
EATING
Information (229km) Government House....................1 C1
Internet Café............................(see 4) Kharkhorin Restaurant..............11 C1
Government House (Square) Ask for the latest informa- 2 Khan Bank.................................2 C2

SÜKHBAATAR tion about permits to border areas here.

Internet café (x21029; per hr T440; h8am-9pm
Mongol Shuudan Bank...............3 B2
Post Office...............................(see 4) Drama
TRANSPORT
Jeep Stand................................12 B1

СYХБААТАР
Telecom Office..........................4 C2 Theatre Petrol Station............................13 B2
6
Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) Inside the Telecom office. To Sainshand
13
To Airport (1km);
Khan Bank (x22268;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm (340km) Dariganga (153km)
pop 52,400 / area 82,000 sq km Sat & Sun) Changes US dollars and gives cash against Visa
Sükhbaatar is a flat aimag wedged between and MasterCard. Located between the main square and the present site. At the height of its splendour, Sharga Hotel (x21101; r/lux T10,000/30,000) Next
the Gobi Desert and the pure steppes of Sharga Hotel. there were seven temples and 1000 monks in to the town square, this old hotel of commu-
Dornod. It contains elements of both – Mongol Shuudan Bank (x21034; h8am-noon & residence, but the Stalinist purges of 1938 had nist yore has passable standard rooms and
shifting sand dunes and barren rock feature 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the Sharga Hotel, this bank also the same result as elsewhere. The new mon- better deluxe rooms with sitting room, TV
prominently in the southwest while the east changes US dollars. astery, surrounded by 108 distinctive stupas,
offers knee-high grass that provides impor- and private bathroom. Hot water comes and
Telecom office (x21030; h24hr) The post office is is about 400m west of the square. goes as it pleases.
tant habitat for huge herds of gazelle. also located here. It’s on the south side of the main square.
The area is of some geologic importance Tansag Hotel (x22444; half-lux s/d T20,000/25,000,
PAVILION lux s/d T30,000/35,000) Easily the best in town,
as the southern sum of Dariganga contains Sights
some 200 extinct volcanoes; this is the most In the evenings, locals walk up to this lookout the Tansag has six rooms in a new build-
MUSEUM to survey the town and socialise. It features a
interesting part of the aimag, a legendary re- ing on the east side of the main square. It
Baruun-Urt’s surprisingly good museum statue of Hoeloun and young Temujin (the
gion of horse thieves, holy mountains and (x21486; admission T500; h8.30am-4.30pm) has a
has fairly reliable hot water and the price
ancient stone statues. A highlight is watch- future Chinggis Khaan and his mother). includes breakfast.
fine collection of costumes representing the
ing a glorious sunrise from sacred Shiliin three ethnic groups that inhabit the region: the
Bogd Uul. Sleeping Eating
EASTERN MONGOLIA

Khalkh (the majority), the Dariganga (30,000

EASTERN MONGOLIA
Sükhbaatar is well off the tourist track live in the south of Sükhbaatar aimag) and the CAMPING There will be no surprises with the mutton-
but can be incorporated into a greater tour Uzemchin (about 2000 live in Dornod aimag Baruun-Urt is the only aimag capital where heavy menu at the Tansag Hotel, but it’s still
of eastern Mongolia. Because it receives so and Sükhbaatar aimag). Look out for the camping is not a good idea. The town is in the the best in town. Otherwise, the guanz in the
few visitors you feel like you have the aimag brass-studded Uzemchin wrestling jacket. middle of dusty plains and there is no river Government House doles up regulation gou-
to yourself. There are also beautiful examples of prod- nearby. The only passable option is by a creek lash with aplomb.
ucts from Dariganga’s renowned silversmiths in the northeast of town.
Kharkhorin Restaurant (dishes T600-800; h9am-
National Parks and blacksmiths (often these are on loan to 11pm) If you’ve already eaten at the Tansag, and
Ganga Nuur Nature Reserve (28,000 hectares) museums elsewhere in the world), some HOTELS for some reason you’re still in Baruun-Urt,
Protects dunes and the Ganga Nuur, an important habitat stuffed gazelle, a map showing the locations of Baruun-Urt is short on hotels and they tend try this restaurant near the main square. The
for migrating swans. the ‘man’ and ‘woman’ balbals (stone figures to fill up if a mining crew rolls through town; pictures of Mongolian pop stars, presumably
Lkhachinvandad Uul Nature Reserve (58,500 believed to be Turkic grave markers) in the you may want to call one of the following to those who stopped by and played here, add a
hectares) On the border with China, this steppe area has aimag, and some Sükhbaatar memorabilia. reserve a room.
plenty of gazelle and elk. It’s reached via Erdenetsagaan.
little bit of character to the place.
From the square, walk 400m south and Ganga Hotel (x21212, 9979 4213; r/lux T8000/16,000)
turn right. The museum is located just past A ramshackle building with scruffy rooms
BARUUN-URT БАРУУН-УРТ the drama theatre. that have a shared bathroom. The lux room Getting There & Away
x01512 / pop 11,500 / elev 981m has a private bathroom but no shower. The AIR
Sükhbaatar’s desolation is nowhere more ERDENEMANDAL KHIID manager is hardly ever around, but the jijuur EZ Nis has flights to and from Ulaanbaatar
evident than in its capital, Baruun-Urt, a ЭРДЭНЭМАНДАЛ ХИЙД (watchman) will let you into the rooms and every Thursday for US$120/216 one way/
scruffy, one-horse town in the middle of ab- According to the monks, this monastery was collect payment. It’s in a blue building about a return. The local office (x21421) is at the air-
solutely nowhere. The city is poor but some originally built in 1830, about 20km from the 10-minute walk northeast of the centre. port, 1km south of town.
 182 S Ü K H B A ATA R • • S ü k h b a a t a r T o w n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S Ü K H B A ATA R • • S h i l i i n B o g d U u l 183

HITCHING Bogd. Permits are available from the border

This is difficult because few vehicles come office in Ulaanbaatar. The fine for travelling MILLENNIUM ROAD
here. Still, with some patience you’ll get a lift without a permit is T40,000 per head. Mongolia’s road network, little more than a series of dirt tracks that squiggle haphazardly
to Choibalsan, Öndörkhaan, Dariganga and If you are coming from Dornod you across the plains, is taking a great leap forward. The Millennium Road project, launched by
even Zamyn-Üüd. In Baruun-Urt, ask around shouldn’t have any trouble getting to Shiliin the Mongolian government in 2000, envisions a paved road running the length of the country,
at the jeep stand behind the department store Bogd and on to Dariganga; this allows you to from Dornod to Bayan-Ölgii, plus several north–south roads, including one alongside the Trans-
or the petrol station. travel directly from the Khalkh Gol area and Mongolia Railway.
Dornod Mongol SPA, bypassing Choibalsan Defenders of the controversial project compare it to America’s interstate system of the 1950s
JEEP & MINIVAN and Baruun-Urt. or Germany’s autobahn, and claim boosts in trade and tourism. Builders point out that one road
Shared jeeps and minivans leave Ulaanbaatar
will reduce land degradation as drivers will end the practice of creating multiple tracks across
daily (T18,000, 560km) from the Naran Tuul Sights the steppe. But a cash deficit has slowed progress and political opponents say it’s called the
jeep station. From Baruun-Urt, vehicles wait The skyline of Dariganga is dominated by Altan Millennium Road because it will take 1000 years to build.
at a small jeep stand behind the department Ovoo (Golden Ovoo), a wide former crater Around 25% of the 2640km road has already been constructed, mostly with loans from inter-
store. The jeep stand also has occasional vehi- topped by a stupa, which only men are allowed national lenders and far-flung countries such as Kuwait, whose royal family imports Mongolian
cles to Dariganga (T7000), Choibalsan (T9000, to visit. The stupa was built in 1990 on top of the falcons en masse.
191km) and Öndörkhaan (T7000, 229km). It’s ruins of the original Bat Tsagaan stupa, which Some economists discredit the road as a waste of time and money, saying it goes from no-
possible to hire a vehicle (T400 per kilometre) was built in 1820 and destroyed in 1937. where to nowhere. (The current proposal seeks to end the road on a remote plain near Khalkh
though the options are limited. In the area around Dariganga, there are Gol, hundreds of kilometres from the nearest urban area.) They argue that the money would be
dozens of broken balbals – mostly dating back
SÜKHBAATAR TOWN СYХБААТАР to the 13th- or 14th-century Mongol period,
better spent on building roads and infrastructure in sprawling Ulaanbaatar.
There is some credibility in the dissent, particularly in Dornod aimag, where plans show the
This small sum centre is 48km east of Baruun- although some are earlier. According to tradi- road east of Choibalsan cutting into important gazelle migration routes and heading towards
Urt. It’s is not worth a trip in its own right tion, you should place an offering of food in an oil field at Tamsagbulag.
but if you are passing through on your way the cup held in the statue’s left hand. There Mining companies, oil men, cashmere traders, marmot-skin smugglers and gazelle poachers
to Dornod, there is an excellent museum are also three balbals, known as the king, the (both Chinese and Mongolian) may enjoy the benefits of the proposed route, but biologists would
dedicated to Damdin Sükhbaatar. Exhibits queen and the prince (GPS: N45° 18.540’, E113° 51.224’), prefer to keep this pristine wilderness, and the gazelle migration route, untouched. An alterna-
include printing-press implements used by on the northern edge of town, near some hay tive route direct to Choibalsan, favoured by conservationists, is generally ignored by developers
Sükhbaatar during his days as a typesetter sheds. In the village itself, you can visit the seeking cash benefits from the oil trade.
in an Ulaanbaatar printing house. To get in- welcoming Ovoon Khiid (Овоон Хийд), which The situation remains murky; in 2007 the governor of Dornod agreed to extend the road
side, you’ll need to ask Mr Batjargal, a music was built in 1990 and is served by a handful towards the oil fields and Khalkh Gol. Public protest has spurred few results. Conservationists
teacher at the nearby elementary school, for of monks. are hoping a deal can be arranged to shift the road towards Choibalsan but no-one is holding
the keys. There are six lakes in the vicinity of their breath.
Dariganga; all are part of the Ganga Nuur
DARIGANGA ДАРЬГАНГА Nature Reserve. The three main lakes,
Special-interest groups, conservationists, politicians and economists (not to mention local
herders, traders and border-guard generals) remain locked in battle over the Millennium Road’s
The vast grasslands of Dariganga are speckled Kholboo Nuur, Tsagaan Nuur and Ganga eastern terminus. If the project proceeds in its current ill-planned manner, it could be a knockout
with volcanic craters, small lakes and sand Nuur, are good for swimming, though a
EASTERN MONGOLIA

EASTERN MONGOLIA
punch for the majestic gazelle, a species already threatened by hunting and poaching.
dunes, the sum of which makes the area one bit muddy.
of the most scenic in eastern Mongolia. Before The magnificent Ganga Nuur (Ганга Нуур;
communism this area was a haven of aristoc- GPS: N45° 15.994’, E113° 59.874’) is about 13km south- cabins (no gers, actually) and basic facilities One or two jeeps and even motorbikes are
racy and its grasslands were the royal grazing east of Dariganga. From the end of September for about T4000 per person. If prodded, the available for charter in Dariganga. Travellers
grounds of horses belonging to the emperor until mid-October, the lake is home to thou- caretakers of these camps can provide meals. report being able to hire horses through one
in Beijing. Silversmiths and blacksmiths made sands of migrating swans. Along the shore, None of the camps has a shower or phone, but of the ger camps.
their homes here, providing local women with in a fenced compound, is delicious and safe you can get both of these in the village.
stunning jewellery that now features promi- spring water. Entry to the lake is T1000 per There is nothing stopping you camping SHILIIN BOGD UUL
nently in the national museum in Ulaanbaatar. person and T500 per car (but you can park anywhere you want as long as you stay away ШИЛИЙН БОГД УУЛ
Dariganga’s best days are now behind it, but your car by the gate and walk). from the ger camps. If you have a vehicle, At 1778m, Shiliin Bogd Uul (GPS: N45° 28.350’, E114°
it’s still worth the effort of getting down here. The sand dunes in the region are known camp on the shores of Ganga Nuur. 35.349’), about 70km east of Dariganga, is the
With a jeep and a good driver you can set off as Moltsog Els (Молцог Элс) and stretch for Dariganga has a few basic shops on the highest peak in Sükhbaatar aimag. The extinct
from town to explore the lakes, volcanoes, 20km, coming to within walking distance main road, alongside two or three tsainii gazar volcano is sacred to many Mongolians: the
caves, sand dunes and ancient stones nearby. of Dariganga. (tea houses/cafés). spirit of any man (and man only!) who climbs
The sacred mountain of Shiliin Bogd Uul is it, especially at sunrise, will be revived. The
also not too far away. Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Away region is stunning, isolated and close to the
Dariganga has three ger camps, about 1.5km Occasional shared jeeps (T7000; four hours) Chinese border – so be careful.
Information south of the village. There is little to differenti- connect Dariganga with Baruun-Urt. A postal A jeep can drive about halfway up the moun-
Although they are not usually checked, per- ate the Dagshin Amaralt, the Zigistei Nuur and truck runs every Thursday from Baruun-Urt; tain, and then it’s a short, but blustery, walk to
mits are required for Dariganga and Shiliin the Ovor Khurem ger camps, which all have ask the post office for timings. the top. There are plenty of ovoos and awesome
 © Lonely Planet Publications
184 S Ü K H B A ATA R • • A r o u n d S h i l i i n B o g d U u l lonelyplanet.com

views of craters all around. About 3km to the Khurgiin Khundii (Хургийн Хөндий; GPS: N45°
south, the fire break that squiggles into the 33.165’, E114° 13.970’), a pretty valley 40km west
distance is the border with China. If you are of Shiliin Bogd Uul, once contained seven
camping, Shiliin Bogd offers one of the greatest stone statues that date back to the 13th or
sunrises in a country full of great sunrises. 14th century (only three statues can be found
On the road between Dariganga and Shiliin today). Although there are various legends to
Bogd, 8km past Ganga Nuur, look out for describe the origins of the stones, the most
the new statue of Toroi-Bandi (GPS: N45° 17.308’, prominent recalls a certain khaan who, on
E114° 04.466’), the Robin Hood of Mongolia, a hunting trip, drove a herd of gazelle over
who had a habit of stealing the horses of the a cliff, killing hundreds of them. Angered by
local Manchurian rulers, then eluding them this senseless slaughter, the sky god (Tenger)
by hiding near Shiliin Bogd Uul. The statue, struck down the king’s family members with
dedicated in 1999, pointedly faces China. disease and natural calamity. The statues in
The only two roads to Shiliin Bogd start Khurgiin Khundii were erected in memory of
from Erdenetsagaan (70km) and Dariganga the king and his family, and as a reminder for
(70km). It’s better to go to Dariganga first, people to respect nature. Because the valley
where you are more likely to find a jeep for is considered to be haunted by the ghosts of
rent or a lift. the royal family, herders do not put their gers
here. You will have to rely on your driver to
AROUND SHILIIN BOGD UUL find the statues and to locate Bichigtiin Khavtsal
Assuming that you have a jeep to get to Shiliin (Бичигтийн хавцал), a pretty canyon about
Bogd Uul in the first place, you can make a 2km away.
good loop from Dariganga, to take in Ganga
Nuur on the way to Shiliin Bogd Uul, and LKHACHINVANDAD UUL
Taliin Agui and Khurgiin Khundii on the way NATURE RESERVE
back to Dariganga. ЛХАЧИНВАНДАД УУЛ
Taliin Agui (Талын Агуй; GPS: N45° 35.405’, E114° If you are visiting Shiliin Bogd by jeep, you
30.051’), 15km northwest of the mountain, is may wish to carry on east for another 120km
one of the largest caves in Mongolia. If the to the 58,500-hectare Lkhachinvandad Uul
ice covering the entrance has melted (it’s nor- Nature Reserve, on the border with China.
mally covered until August) you can squeeze This reserve contains Lkhachinvandad Uul
through the narrow entrance. The large, icy (1233m) and is full of gazelle and elk. You’ll
cavern has three chambers to explore (the need a border permit to visit the area and
back wall looks like a dead end but you can it’s wise to register with the police in the
EASTERN MONGOLIA

squeeze under the overhang). You’ll need a nearest town, Erdenetsagaan. While in the
torch (flashlight) to see anything, and be care- town, you could have a look at the old temple,
ful on the slippery floor. Eguzer Khutagtiin Khuree (Егүзэр Хутагтын
In summer, a basic ger camp (beds T2000, meals Хүрээ), a two-storey building that managed
T1500) pops up near the cave. to survive the communist purge.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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193

The Gobi
Be prepared to have some illusions shattered. The notion of the Gobi Desert as a wasteland
of uninhabited sand dunes seems to have been developed solely in the minds of a few
folklorists and Hollywood scriptwriters. While it is a fairly bleak part of the world, the Gobi
is also enormously diverse, with various sprinklings of ice-filled canyons, John Ford–esque
rock formations, and verdant oases. By comparison, sand dunes appear in short supply –
they cover just 3% of the Gobi.

As you may expect, a trip to the Gobi is no cakewalk. Between the summer heat, winter
cold, sandstorms, poor infrastructure and lack of water, this is one of the harshest landscapes
on the planet. One Mildred Cable, an Englishwoman who passed through in the 1920s,
noted: ‘Only a fool crosses the Gobi without misgivings’.

Somehow, the Mongols have made a home of it, with scattered nomad camps still dot-
ting the plains, ramshackle villages and the occasional ruined monastery to indicate long-
disappeared settlements. A close look on the ground reveals a more ancient past as the
Gobi supports a wealth of fossils, first made known to the world by American naturalist
Roy Chapman Andrews, who visited in the early 20th century.

These days the lure of the Gobi extends mainly to minerals, specifically the Oyu Tolgoi gold
and copper deposit, one of the largest of its kind anywhere. The Gobi aimags (provinces) of
Bayankhongor, Dornogov, Dundgov, Gov-Altai and Ömnögov also support small-scale goat
and camel herding and, increasingly, tourism – foreign travellers come here to spot wildlife,
hunt for fossils, hike the canyons or just enjoy the terrific emptiness of it all.

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Make a pilgrimage to Khamaryn Khiid and

Shambhala (p202), once home to the legen-
dary poet-monk Danzan Ravjaa
„ Go fossil hunting at Bayanzag (p208), the Ikh Gazryn
remarkable ‘flaming cliffs’ that house rich Chuluu
Bayanzag
deposits of dinosaur bones and fossilised Khamaryn Khiid
Khongoryn Els and Shambhala
eggs
Yolyn Am
„ Scramble up and slide down the dunes at
Khongoryn Els (p209), perfect for camel
riding
„ Step into the amazing Yolyn Am (p208), a

THE GOBI
canyon covered in ice for most of the year
„ Stretch your legs with a Ger to Ger walk and rock-climbing adventure in the eerie Ikh Gazryn
Chuluu (p198)

„ POPULATION: 309,021 „ AREA: 612,000 SQ KM

 194 E A S T E R N & C E N T R A L G O B I lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D U N D G O V • • M a n d a l g o v 195

Climate hours drive south of Ulaanbaatar, it’s also one

Sükhbaatar
200 km

Zamyn-Üüd
While daytime temperatures in summer can of the most convenient Gobi regions to explore
Uulbayan
100 miles

Delgerekh
range from pleasant to stifling hot, nights and is fast becoming a tourist destination.

Chuluu
Tsonjiin
are almost always cold, so take a sleeping Dundgov’s allure lies in its mysterious rock

Ulaanbadrakh
bag. Dust storms can rock the region at any formations, which appear mainly at two loca-

Erdene
Orgon
Galshir

tions: Baga Gazryn Chuluu and Ikh Gazryn

Dalai
time but are especially common in April and

Els
Sainshand

Khamaryn
May. The tourist season lasts longer here than Chuluu. At both you’ll find large granite pin-

Khiid
northern areas; even October is not too late nacles and winding canyons that make for great
Ikhkhet

Dornogov
Khövsgöl
Altanshiree hiking and climbing. The water that manages
Bayanmönkh

Khad
Senjit
Khentii

to see the sights. By December the desert will

Bogd-Uul
(1053m)
to collect in these areas can support some wild-

Bayanzurkh Uul

Baga
be blanketed with snow and daily maximum

Züünbayan
Bor-Öndör

(1070m)
temperatures will fall to -15°C. life, including argali sheep and ibex.
Dalanjargalan

Strictly Protected Area

Airag

Dundgov is now home to a couple of trek-

Khalzan Uul

Small Gobi B
Amny Rashaan

Nature Reserve

Getting There & Away king routes for the Ger to Ger programme,

Tsagaan
Tsavyn

Khatanbulag
Burgasan
Darkhan

Ikh Nart

CHINA
Saikhandulaan There is plenty of public and private trans- one of which includes rock climbing. The

Ergeliin
Zuu
Mandakh
project is boosting ecotourism in the region
0
0

port heading from Ulaanbaatar to all the Gobi

Choir

aimag capitals, so it’s easy enough to reach and this has spawned better hotels, restaurants
Mandalgov, Sainshand, Dalanzadgad Altai and and facilities. Besides trekking and the rock
Bayanjargalan

Öndörshil
Govi-Ugtal
Tsagaandelger

pinnacles, it’s definitely worth visiting the

Reserve

Bayankhongor. You can fly to the latter three.

Demchigiin
Zagiin Us
Bayantsagaan

Chombin
ruined monastery Ongiin Khiid and the still-

Khiid
If you are travelling on local trains in China,

Lovon
Agui
intact monastery at Erdenedalai.
Nature

it’s possible to enter Mongolia at Dornogov

Saikhan
Gurvan
Chuluu
Mandalgov Gazryn

Manlai

aimag, although catching a jeep further west

Ikh

Khanbogd
National Parks
Dobo Suma

is next to impossible; it’s best to have a tour

Delgertsogt

Tolgoi
Deren

Bayan
Dundgov

Oyu
Bayan-Ovoo
Tavan Tolgoi

operator in Ulaanbaatar send a jeep down to Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Nature Reserve (60,000 hectares)
Töv

meet you when you get off the train. Extraordinary rock formations, argali sheep and ibex.
Zagiin Us Nature Reserve (273,606 hectares) Pro-
Baga Gazryn

Strictly Protected Area

Ölziit
Chuluu

(1768m)

Getting Around tected mountain-Gobi area, saxaul trees, salt marshes and
Gazryn
Baga

Tsagaan
Uul

Suvraga
Luus

Small Gobi A
Khuld

black-tailed gazelle.
Tsogttsetsii

Gobi infrastructure is almost nonexistent,

Önjuul
Bayan

Nomgon
Khökh

but the lack of roads does not prevent vehi-

Delgerkhangai
Burd
Süm

cles from getting around. On the contrary, MANDALGOV МАНДАЛГОВЬ

Suvraga
Delgerkhaan

Ulaan

Dalanzadgad
Tsogt Ovoo

Khankhongor

the rock-hard jeep trails are the best in the x01592 / pop 13,820 / elev 1427m
Delgerkhangai
Middle Gobi
Ger Camp

Mandalgov came into existence in 1942 and

Buren

(1913m)

country and along main routes it’s possible

Erdenedalai

Uul

for jeeps to reach speeds of 100km/h. But originally consisted of just 40 gers. Today, it’s
a sleepy town that offers the usual amenities
Ongiin

breakdowns in the Gobi can be deadly.

Yolyn
Bayan-
Öndör

Khiid

Am
Bayanzag
Moltzog

Travel in this region is serious business and for an aimag capital: a hotel, a monastery, a
Els

Dugany

Khurmen
Esönzüil

museum and a few shops. It also has a useful

Mandal-Ovoo

you shouldn’t think of setting off without a

Am
Burd

Saikhan-Ovoo
Sant

reliable jeep and driver, plenty of water and Ger to Ger information office. A walk to the
Züünbayan-Ulaan

ruu

Ömnögov

supplies, and a good sense of direction. A map top of Mandalin Khar Ovoo, just north of the
Bulgan
Shankh

Tögrög

n Nu
Bayangol

Bayandalai

l
Go
Togrigin
Shiree
Övörkhangai

iin
and a GPS unit would not go astray if your town centre, affords sweeping views of the
ikha

g
On
Khovd

bleak terrain. There is more to see in western

a

driver is inexperienced. Hitchhiking is not

S
van

Dundgov, but Mandalgov is a useful stop-off

Nuruu
Arvaikheer

recommended, though we have mentioned

Khairkhandulaan

Gur

on the way to Dalanzadgad in Ömnögov.

Khongoryn
EASTERN & CENTRAL GOBI

Noyon

instances in this chapter when it might be

Sevrei
Arts Bogdyn
Guchin-Us
Bat-Ölzii

Els
Arkhangai Tövkhön Khiid

Shargaljuut Uyanga

possible. Otherwise, there are few vehicles

Baga Terguun
Bogd Uul

Information
Bogd
Shargaljuut

Tsagaan (3598m)

Gurvan Saikhan
(3137m)

passing and hitchhiking (or a breakdown)

Baruunbayan

Bugiin Nemegt Uul National Park

Uul

Ger to Ger office (x9969 7456; zaanaa_999@chingiss

Ulaan

can leave you stranded for days.

Sevrei Uul
(2632m)
Nariinteel

.com; 2nd fl, Gandalai Supermarket, Buyan Emekhiin

CHINA
Agui
u
uru

Gudamj; h9am-6pm) Assists with vehicle hire, bus

Bayanlig
iN

Bayankhongor

DUNDGOV
Bogd
Ugalzat Uul
ga

tickets and general info, and is a contact point for Ger to

Myangan
(3483m)
an

Bayangovi
Bayankhongor

Nuur
Orog
Jinst

(2769m)
Kh

Erdenetsogt

Ger routes. Ask for Ganbaatar or Nara.

ДУНДГОВЬ
Ikh Bogd
(3957m)

Internet café (per hr T460; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Uul

Gurvantes
Zuunmod Altan Uul
Bayan-

Bayangiin

(2273m)
Ovoo

Nuruu
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
Located in the Telecom office.
Shinejist Tsagaan
Bulag

Tsav
Galuut

Bituut
Rock
Baatsagaan

pop 49,406 / area 78,000 sq km Khan Bank (x23881; h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-
Canyon
Galuut

Daltin KhuvYasnee

Dundgov (Middle Gobi) is something of a Fri) Can change US dollars and give a cash advance on Visa
Tsav
Bayantsagaan

Khermen
Khuv
Bömbögör

Tsav

misnomer. The aimag would be best described or MasterCard.

Tsagaan

Jartiin Khuv;
Nuur
Böön
Zag

Burkhant

‘North Gobi’ as this area is the northernmost Telecom office (x21212; h24hr) The post office is
Khuv

extent of the Gobi Desert. Lying just a few also located here.
 196 D U N D G O V • • M a n d a l g o v Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com D U N D G O V • • B a g a G a z r y n C h u l u u 197

too long if you are prepared to ask around away. It was abandoned and in ruins a few
MANDALGOV 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
at the market and wait awhile. centuries after being built.

ὈὈ
7
A B To Ulaanbaatar
(260km) C D Three hundred years ago a palace was built
To Süm Khökh
5
JEEP & MINIVAN here, and 150 years later the writer Danzan
Burd (66km) Petrol
Station Daily share jeeps to Ulaanbaatar (T12,000, six Ravjaa (p201) built a stage on top of the ruins.
Lenin Statue.........................6 A1
1 Mandalin Khar Ovoo...........7 A1
hours, 260km) and Choir (T8000, four hours, Enough of the temple and palace remain to
10
9 Sükhbaatar Statue...............8 A2 187km) leave when full from the jeep stand give you some idea of what a magnificent
4
Petrol SLEEPING outside the Telecom office. You’re unlikely to place it once must have been.
Station
1 Monument
dam
j Anar Guesthouse.................9 C1 find a share jeep to Dalanzadgad (T12,000, six The lake itself, Sangiin Dalai Nuur, only encir-
Park n Gu Mandal Hotel.....................10 B1
cles the palace after heavy rains; at other times
Square n Em
ekhii Baga Temujin Hotel....................11 B2 hours, 293km), but Dalanzadgad-bound jeeps
Buya 3
8 16
2
Toiru
coming from Ulaanbaatar might be able to you can slog through the mud to the palace.
12 EATING
14
Department
INFORMATION Gandalai Supermarket.......12 A2 squeeze you in. Wait for these at the petrol There is good bird-watching here: various spe-
u

Store
To Erdenedalai
Ger to Ger Office.............(see 12) Market..............................13 A2 station in the south of town. The jeep stand cies of eagle, goose and swan come to this
Zalu

Government House..............1 A1 Oig Zoog.........................(see 10)

(104km) 11
Internet Café.....................(see 3) outside the market is another place to look. spring-fed lake in summer and autumn.
uchid

2 Khan Bank...........................2 B2 ENTERTAINMENT The Süm Khökh Burd Ger Camp (x9911 4684; per
iin G

Post Office........................(see 3) Cinema..............................14 A2

Telecom Office....................3 A2 BAGA GAZRYN CHULUU person with meals US$26) is an old socialist place that
udam

13
15
17 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
TRANSPORT
Jeep Stand.........................15 A2
БАГА ГАЗРЫН ЧУЛУУ has seen some recent renovations. Otherwise,
j

To Airport (3km);
Aimag Museum....................4 B1 Jeep Stand.........................16 A2 This granite rock formation in the middle you can pitch your tent anywhere.
Dashgimpeliin Khiid..............5 B1 Petrol Station.....................17 B2
Dalanzadgad (293km) of the dusty plains sheltered Zanabazar dur- The temple is located 72km northeast of
ing conflicts between the Khalkh and Oirat Erdenedalai, 65km northwest of Mandalgov
Sights of town and find somewhere past Mandalin Mongols. Later it was home to two 19th- and 21km west of Baga Gazryn Chuluu. There
AIMAG MUSEUM Khar Ovoo or the monastery. century monks who left rock drawings in the is no hope of getting here on public transport
The renovated Aimag Museum (x23690; Buyan Anar Guesthouse (x9963 9767; nangaa_j999@yahoo area. The rocks are worshipped by locals who or by hitching.
Emekhiin Gudamj; admission T1000; h9am-6pm) is di- .com; per person US$4) The best option for inde- sometimes make pilgrimages here. Naturally,
vided into two main sections: a natural history pendent travellers, Anar is a comfortable ger there is a legend that Chinggis Khaan grazed ERDENEDALAI ЭРДЭНЭДАЛАЙ
section and a more interesting ethnography guesthouse, owned by the people who run the his horses here. This sometime camel-herding community in
and history section. There’s also a collection Ger to Ger office. It’s just off the road to UB, in Five kilometres away, the highest peak in the middle of nowhere (114km northwest of
of priceless thangka (scroll paintings), old a fenced compound. There are no showers. the area, Baga Gazryn Uul (1768m), will take Mandalgov) is known for the Gimpil Darjaalan
flintlock rifles, bronze arrowheads, silver Mandal Hotel (x22100; Buyan Emekhiin Gudamj; about an hour to climb. The mountain also Khiid (admission T1000), an old monastery that
snuffboxes, pipes, and chess sets carved out s/d T5000/10,000, lux s/d T7000/14,000) A slightly run- contains a cave with an underground lake. somehow survived Stalin’s purges. The mon-
of ivory. down hotel that offers good-value rooms that The mineral water springs and trees in the re- astery was built in the late-18th century to
are regularly clean and fairly comfortable. Hot gion make it a great spot to camp, and there commemorate the first ever visit to Mongolia
DASHGIMPELIIN KHIID showers are available. are plenty of rocky hills topped by ovoo (sa- by a Dalai Lama. It was once used by about
ДАШГИМПЭЛИЙН ХИЙД Temujin Hotel (x23973; Baga Toiruu; dm/d/lux cred pyramid-shaped collections of stone and 500 monks.
In 1936 there were 53 temples in Dundgov; T5000/12,000/25,000) Offers the best facilities in wood) to explore. The monastery was reopened in 1990 and
a year later, nearly all were reduced to ashes town, including rooms with shower and toi- The Bayan Bulag ger camp (x9825 0010; www the current Dalai Lama visited in 1992. If no-
and rubble by the Mongolian KGB. In 1991 let. It’s in a white brick building, south of the .bayanbulag.mn; GPS: N 46°13.827’, E 106°04.192’; with/with- one is there, wait a few minutes and some boys
Dashgimpeliin Khiid was opened to serve the main drag, a bit off Baga Toiruu. out meals US$30/15) is one of the Gobi’s more at- will materialise with the keys and admission
people of Mandalgov. The monastery is now tractive ger camps and offers good food and tickets. The spacious temple has a central
served by 30 monks and services are held most Eating hot showers. Guides (free) from the camp statue of Tsongkhapa (founder of the ‘Yellow
mornings from 10am. It’s 300m northeast of Self-caterers can pick up food items at the can show you sights in the area, including Hat’ sect of Buddhism), some large parasols
the Mandal Hotel. local market or Gandalai Supermarket (Buyan a partially restored monastery and camel- and some huge drums. Photos are permitted
Emekhiin Gudamj) on the main street. trekking routes. It also has a greenhouse grow- outside the temple but not inside.
MONUMENT PARK Oig Zoog (x 9996 1122; Mandal Hotel, Buyan ing delicious tomatoes and cucumbers. Middle Gobi Camp (x9912 8783, 011-367 316;
Communism has been preserved in this small Emekhiin Gudamj; dishes T1100-1500; h9.30am-10pm Baga Gazryn Chuluu is about 60km north with/without meals US$35/18) About 25km north of
park, which contains statues of Sükhbaatar, Mon-Sat) Disco beats, black lights and a so- by northwest of Mandalgov, and about 21km Erdenedalai, it’s not a bad place to spend the
Yuri Gagarin (first man in space), a pair cialist mural provide the backdrop for this east of Süm Khökh Burd. night if you are headed in this direction.
of happy workers, various livestock and a funky ’80s-style café. Serves Mongolian Although the village is small, it is on a major
Soviet–Mongolian friendship monument, food and some vegetable dishes. It’s in the SÜM KHÖKH BURD jeep trail, so a few vehicles come through here
СУМ ХӨХ БҮРД
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
among others. Mandal Hotel. every day.
The temple Süm Khökh Burd (GPS: N 46°09.621’, E
Sleeping Getting There & Away 105°45.590’), which sits on an island in the mid- ONGIIN KHIID ОНГИЙН ХИЙД
Like other Gobi aimag capitals, Mandalgov HITCHING dle of a tiny lake, was built in the 10th century. This small mountainous area along the Ongiin
has no great camping spots; the city has no Getting to Ulaanbaatar or Dalanzadgad on Remarkably, the temple was built from rocks Gol in the western sum of Saikhan-Ovoo
river and is flat and dusty. Perhaps walk north a truck or other type of vehicle won’t take that can only be found more than 300km makes a pleasant place to break a trip between
 198 D O R N O G O V • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D O R N O G O V • • S a i n s h a n d 199

southern Gobi and either Ulaanbaatar or a ‘badlands’ or a ‘painted desert’. The eerie,
Arvaikheer. The bend in the river marks the eroded landscape was at one time beneath ILLEGAL BUUZ Michael Kohn
remains of two ruined monasteries, the Barlim the sea, and is rich in marine fossils and ‘Sorry, no more buuz’ said the woman on the train platform. She was the 10th person we had
Khiid on the north bank, and the Khutagt Khiid clamshells. There are also numerous ancient asked in futility.
on the south. Together the complex is known rock paintings in the region. About 20km east ‘But we’re starving,’ we whined, ‘we’ve been on the train all day and haven’t eaten’.
as Ongiin Khiid (GPS: N 45°20.367’, E 104°00.306’; admission of Ulaan Suvraga is the equally stunning The buuz seller lifted the lid off her red thermos to prove that she had indeed sold out of
US$1, photos US$2, video US$5). A contingent of 13 Tsagaan Suvraga, an area of 30m-high white steamed mutton dumplings. But the look on our faces must have been pitiful. Shifting her eyes
monks has set up shop amid the ruins, com- limestone formations. back and forth, she grabbed our shirt sleeves and led us to the end of the platform.
pleting a new temple in 2004. The ger in front The best place to stay in the area is the ‘Here,’ she whispered, pointing to a sealed container held tightly by a granny in a green scarf,
of the temple is a ‘museum’ (admission US$1) that Tsagaan Suvraga ger camp (x9929 8155; ts_suvarga@ ‘buuz’. The granny slowly lifted the lid to show us a mountain of steaming hot dumplings.
houses some unimpressive artefacts found at yahoo.com; GPS: N 44°34.405’, E 105°48.542’; with meals ‘Khoyor zuun tögrög.’
the site. Despite it being illegal, locals may try US$30), 8km east of Tsagaan Suvraga. It was twice the normal going rate for buuz, but we were desperate. Feeling as though we were
to sell you some artefacts or dinosaur eggs. buying some type of rare, illegal buuz, we peeked over our shoulder to make sure no-one was
There are plenty of places to camp along
the forested riverside and there are five ger DORNOGOV looking, and slipped the granny a wad of bills. Cloak-and-dagger-style she sealed up the buuz in
a plastic bag, wrapped the package in newspaper and quickly handed over the goods.
camps in the vicinity.
Great Gobi Ger Camp (x011-329 350; 9191 6184; ДОРНОГОВЬ As the train whistle blew into the dry Gobi night we hopped back into the cabin, satisfied
with our purchase but still completely baffled at the secrecy of what would become known as
www.trip2mongolia.com/gobi_camp.htm; with/without pop 54,000 / area 111,000 sq km ‘Operation: Buuz’.
meals US$33/12) is a friendly place with English- Dornogov (East Gobi) is the first place vis-
speaking staff. Amenities include a sauna, ited by many overlanders, as the trainline
basketball court (!) and camel riding (per south of Khalzan Uul. Nomadic Journeys Sights
from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar runs straight up
hour/day US$3/10). It is located next to (p80) has a ger camp here. AIMAG MUSEUM
its gut. The landscape seen from the train
the monastery. window is one of flat, arid emptiness and the The well-appointed Aimag Museum (x22657;
In the town of Saikhan-Ovoo, a good option occasional station where locals shuffle about SAINSHAND САЙНШАНД admission T1000; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm) houses plenty
is the new Zambagiin Tal Guesthouse (x9929 1892; on the platform. The railway supports local x01522 / pop 19,540 / elev 938m of stuffed Gobi animals, and a collection of sea
per person US$10) which has a café and ger accom- trade while the rest of the economy lies on Compared with other Gobi towns, the capital shells and marine fossils (Dornogov was once
modation and is a jumping off point for Ger the back of copper mining and small-scale of Dornogov is reasonably well-equipped with beneath the sea). There is also an impressive
to Ger trekking. It’s in the centre of town – oil extraction. facilities and shops, owing mainly to its loca- skeleton of a Protoceratops and a dinosaur
look for the ‘Ger to Ger’ sign on the roof. Most travellers stop here with the pur- tion on the railway line and proximity to the egg. Upstairs, look out for the wooden breast-
There is no public transport to Ongiin pose of visiting Khamaryn Khiid, the mon- Chinese border. plate used by a Mongol soldier of the imperial
Khiid. astery established by the poet-monk Danzan Sainshand (Good Pond) is divided into fighting days. Lighting here is poor so bring a
Ravjaa. The once-deserted monastery has two parts: a cluster around the train station, torch (flashlight).
IKH GAZRYN CHULUU become an important spiritual centre and and the more developed city centre 2km to
ИХ ГАЗРЫН ЧУЛУУ pilgrimage point for Mongolians and for- the east. A leafy park at the centre of town MUSEUM OF DANZAN RAVJAA
Caves, canyons and some excellent rock- eigners interested in Buddhism. Another offers cool respite from the Gobi heat; it’s sur- Noyon Khutagt Danzan Ravjaa (1803–56),
climbing routes are a few of the reasons trav- reason to come down this way is to travel rounded by the standard collection of banks, a well-known Mongolian writer, composer,
ellers head out to this remote Gobi area, 70km by local train, getting a quick and easy look hotels, restaurants and museums. There are painter and medic, was born about 100km
east of Mandalgov in Gurvan Saikhan sum. at the Gobi before heading into China. few jeeps for hire for trips to the desert; over- southwest of Sainshand. The museum (x23221;
The area is the site of a Ger to Ger trekking land trips generally begin in Dalanzadgad in www.danzanravjaa.org; admission T1000, photos T5000;
route, which combines travel by camel, horse National Parks Ömnögov aimag. Recently the city has seen h9am-1pm & 2-6pm) has a collection of gifts
and on foot. Rock climbers with their own Dornogov’s national parks are little visited, growing attention from Buddhist pilgrims, presented to Danzan Ravjaa by Chinese and
gear will find routes set in the boulders. In late but make for some good off-the-beaten- who use it as a jumping off point for nearby Tibetan leaders, costumes used in his plays,
June, the area hosts the Roaring Hooves Music path travel destinations. Ergeliin Zuu (90,910 Khamaryn Khiid (p202). Buddhist statues presented to him by the 10th
Festival (www.roaringhooves.com), with participants hectares), in the south of the province, is Dalai Lama, and some of Ravjaa’s paintings.
coming from around the world. a small protected area that has interesting Information He was also very interested in traditional
You can overnight at the comfortable Töv rock formations and palaeontology sites Luggage storage is available for a small fee at medicine, so the museum also has a collec-
Borjigan ger camp (x9825 9985; tuv_borjigin@yahoo that include 30-million-year-old mamma- the Aimag Museum. tion of herbs.
.com; GPS: N 45°45.664’, E 107°15.977’; with/without meals lian fossils. Ikh Nart Nature Reserve (67,000 Internet café (x22289; per hr T500; h24hr) In the In the centre of the museum is a statue of
US$20/10). The people who run it can show hectares), only a four-hour drive from Telecom office. Danzan Ravjaa looming in the darkness. Note
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
you caves in the area. Ulaanbaatar, is home to hundreds of ibex Telecom office (x22112; h24hr) The post office is the small glass jar in front of the statue, which
(mountain goat), black vulture and other also located here. contains Danzan Ravjaa’s bones; the poet’s
ULAAN SUVRAGA wildlife. The natural springs near Khalzan Trade & Development Bank (x22298; h9am- mummified body was burned along with his
УЛААН СУВРАГА Uul (Bald Mountain) are considered a local 5pm Mon-Fri) Changes US-dollar travellers cheques and monastery in the 1930s.
In the southernmost sum of Ölziit is Ulaan health remedy. Burgasan Amny Rashaan gives cash advances on MasterCard and Visa. The Mongol Plans are afoot to move the museum to a
Suvraga, an area that might be described as is another mineral spring a few kilometres Post Bank is in the same building. new facility in the park.
 200 D O R N O G O V • • S a i n s h a n d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com D O R N O G O V • • S a i n s h a n d 201

best views are from the tank monument located

SAINSHAND 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
behind the monastery. DANZAN RAVJAA: POET, PLAYWRIGHT & SOCIAL CRITIC
A Sainshand B Danzan Ravjaa was a hot-headed rebellious monk, a writer and popular leader of Mongolia’s
To Ulaanbaatar
Train Station Trans-
Mon
golia
n Rail
Sleeping Red Hat Buddhists. He was recognised as a child prodigy by local people (he began composing
(463km) way CAMPING and singing his own songs at the age of four) and was proclaimed the Fifth Gobi Lord in 1809.
1
Sainshand, like most aimag capitals in the The Manchus had executed the Fourth Gobi Lord and forbade another and it was only by the
Gobi, does not offer anywhere decent to pitch narrowest of chances that the Manchu court allowed the young Gobi king to live.
a tent. The best place to head for is the cliffs Danzan Ravjaa’s fame as a writer, artist and social critic spread far and wide. He received
north of the monastery. foreign students at his monastery and travelled to foreign countries, taking his acting troupe
with him to study drama.
INFORMATION GER CAMPS
Internet Café................................(see 1) Ravjaa was also an expert at martial arts, Tantric studies, yoga and traditional medicine. He
Post Office...................................(see 1) Gobi Sunrise Tavan Dohoi (x9911 3820, 9909 0151; spent months in solitude writing, either in caves or in his ger. It is said that he so hated being
Telecom Office...............................1 B5
Trade & Development Bank...........2 B4
[email protected]; GPS: N 44°45.418’, E 110°11.236’; disturbed that he built himself a ger with no door. He had a lousy temper that was often exac-
with/without meals US$25/10) A well-run ger camp, it erbated by protracted bouts of drinking.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
2 Aimag Museum..............................3 B5
has a restaurant, flush toilets and clean show- Many tall tales exist about Danzan Ravjaa and a little prodding will have locals spinning yarns
Dechinchoinkhorlon Khiid..............4 A3 ers with hot water. To arrange transport to the about their beloved Gobi saint. It is said that Ravjaa could fly to Tibet in an instant to gather
Museum of Danzan Ravjaa............5 B5
camp, which is about 20km south of Sainshand medicine, disappear into thin air and turn water into whisky (an important feat in Mongolia).
SLEEPING on the road to Khamaryn Khiid (p202), ask Displaying his powers to the local people, he once peed off the roof of his temple and ‘magically’
Od Hotel.......................................6 A4
Shand Plaza...................................7 A5 Altangerel, the curator at the Danzan Ravjaa made the urine fly into the air before it hit the ground.
museum (p199). Danzan Ravjaa’s mysterious death came either at the hands of the rival Yellow Hat Buddhist
EATING
To Tank
Monument Altan Urag.....................................8 B4 Shand Ger Camp (x9925 7883; with/without meals sect or a jealous queen who failed to gain his love. His legacy remains strong and locals can still
(900m) Best Restaurant..............................9 B4
Shand Plaza Restaurant................(see 7)
US$30/15) Located 15km south of Sainshand, sing the songs he wrote and can recite his poetry. There are hopes to one day rebuilding his
this camp is more expensive but not as nice theatre at Khamaryn Khiid to again perform his famous play, Life Story of the Moon Cuckoo.
3 DRINKING
Hollywood Bar.............................10 A4
as Gobi Sunrise. Arrange transport through For more information on Danzan Ravjaa, pick up a copy of his biography Lama of the Gobi
the Shand Plaza. (Maitri Books, 2006), written by the author of this guidebook.
ENTERTAINMENT
4 Saran Khökhöö Drama Theatre....11 A5
HOTELS

Ὀ
TRANSPORT
Jeep Stop..................................... 12 A5 Shand Plaza (x9914 8352, 23509; d/tr/half-lux/lux terior of a ger. The menu has your standard- HITCHING
T20,000/18,000/35,000/65,000) This reasonably com- issue Mongolian dishes and a couple of For the same reasons that jeeps are scarce,
fortable hotel has a variety of rooms with TV European meals. hitching is also hard. You will get a lift to
and clean bathroom. The triple room has no Best Restaurant (x 9925 5579; dishes T1800- Zamyn-Üüd or to Ulaanbaatar, but the train
shower but the basement has a shared shower 2500; h10am-11pm; a) A local favourite, this is quicker, more comfortable and cheap.
4 (T800) and sauna (T5000) that can be used place doles out excellent Mongolian dishes,
even if you aren’t staying here. The hotel also we recommend the bainshte shöl (dump- JEEP
9
10 has a restaurant, disco, billiard room and ling soup). It’s in the 2nd floor of a brown Share jeeps park themselves at a stop south
2
Government
8
local branch of the Anod Bank where you brick building. of the Sports Palace. These head out to the
6
Sports
Palace
House
can receive a money transfer. various villages in Dornogov, but it’s nearly
7 Danzan
Ravjaa
5 Od Hotel (Star Hotel; x23245; dm T4500-5500) In Entertainment impossible to find a ride going to the neigh-
Park
3
1 the west wing of the Government House, it Saran Khöökhöö Drama Theatre (x 22796) bouring aimags. If you ask around you
Indoor
Market 12 has a hot-water shower room and bland dorm Named after the famous play by local hero might be able to find someone to drive you
11 rooms. Enter the hotel from the north side. Danzan Ravjaa, who would be proud that to Khanbogd or Manlai sums in Ömnögov,
5 At the time of research a seven-storey this Sainshand theatre group is considered from where you could find transport to
hotel was being built in Sainshand, close to the best outside of Ulaanbaatar. The thea- Dalanzadgad, but the cost for such a trip could
the park. tre’s in the centre of town on the west side be from US$150 to US$200 (they would ex-
To Hospital (900m);
Shand Ger Camp (15km); of the park. Unfortunately, performances pect you to pay the return fare as the jeep
Gobi Sunrise Tavan Dohoi (20km);
Khamaryn Khiid (40km) Drinking & Eating are sporadic. would have to go back empty). Sainshand is
Altan Urag (dishes T1000-2500; h9am-11pm) Behind a Hollywood Bar (h2pm-midnight) For a cold beer 463km southeast of Ulaanbaatar, and 218km
DECHINCHOINKHORLIN KHIID supermarket and just past the Danzan Ravjaa try this dim watering hole located behind the northwest of Zamyn-Üüd.
ДЭЧИНЧОЙНХОРЛИН ХИЙД museum on the left, this place serves authen- Government House.
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
This monastery (h10am-5pm Mon-Fri), which tic, if somewhat oily Chinese meals. One dish TRAIN
opened in 1991, is in a large walled compound is big enough for two people. Getting There & Away Local train 285 from Ulaanbaatar via Choir
at the northern end of the central district. Shand Plaza Restaurant (x9952 2417; Shand Because at least one train links Sainshand (daily), departs at 10.15am and arrives at 8pm.
There is an active temple and, although visi- Plaza Hotel; dishes T1500-2500; h9am-9pm) This with Ulaanbaatar every day, there are no It returns to Ulaanbaatar from Sainshand at
tors are welcome, photographs are not allowed restaurant shows a little bit of local pride, flights or scheduled bus services to or 9.05pm, arriving 8am. A second option is
inside. The 25 monks are very friendly. The with the colourful décor resembling the in- from Sainshand. local train 276 to Zamyn-Üüd, which leaves
 202 D O R N O G O V • • S o u t h o f S a i n s h a n d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D O R N O G O V • • N o r t h o f S a i n s h a n d 203

Ulaanbaatar at 4.30pm, arriving at Sainshand elling by local train between Mongolia and then a jockeying for position at the border.
at the inconvenient time of about 2am. The RITUALS AT SHAMBHALA China you’ll need to stop here and organise Keeping up with the crowd will get you
return train departs Sainshand at 11.03pm There are several rituals to adhere to when onward transport. to Ereen more quickly, so don’t dally! See
and arrives in Ulaanbaatar at 9.45am. you enter the Shambhala site. Do them in While Erlian booms with economic activ- p269 for more information about crossing
There may be other departure times (and the following order: ity right across the border, little happens in the border.
the aforementioned may change) so check Zamyn Üüd – there is no market and the By jeep the price is the same if coming
„ Write a bad thought on a piece of paper
when you book your ticket, or call the sta- roads are slowly being consumed by sand, from Ereen. Jeeps assemble at the Ereen bus
and burn it in the rocks to the left.
tion in Sainshand: x52307. Tickets from blown in from the surrounding desert. station and the market – ask the Mongolian
Ulaanbaatar cost T6200/9500 for hard/soft „ Write down a wish, read it, throw some There are just enough transit travellers to drivers. There is a Y5 tax that you need to
sleeper. If you book your ticket more than vodka in the air and drop some rice in keep some hotels and restaurants busy around pay going either way (you can pay the driver
a day ahead there is a T450 fee. Trains get the stone circles on the ground (repre- the train station. Plans to build a casino in the in tögrög or US dollars and they will pay the
crowded in both directions so book as far in senting the past, present and future). town could help, although after several years tax for you).
advance as possible. „ Take a white pebble from the ground, of talk nothing has happened yet. The road border is open from 8am to 6pm
The Trans-Mongolian Railway and the place it on the pile of other white peb- daily except holidays. If it’s closed for a holi-
trains between Ulaanbaatar and Ereen (just bles and announce your family name. Information day, a train will still run across the border.
over the Chinese border) and Hohhot (in Inner The train station has banks, an ATM and If you are on a Trans-Mongolian train, or
„ Take off your shoes and lay down on
Mongolia) stop at Sainshand, but you cannot money changers. Luggage storage is avail- the service between Ulaanbaatar and Hohhot
the ground, absorbing the energy of
use these services just to get to Sainshand un- able for T250 per item. or Ereen, you will stop at Zamyn-Üüd for
this sacred site.
less you buy a ticket all the way to China. You Telecom office (x21112; h24hr) International an hour or so while Mongolian customs and
must take the local daily train. „ Circle the ovoo three times. calling available, and internet (per hour T470). immigration officials do their stuff – usu-
Getting on the Trans-Mongolian at A watchman may be on hand to show you ally in the middle of the night. See p272
Sainshand for China is fraught with com- around. Sleeping for details.
plications unless you have bought your There are enough vehicles heading in and
Ulaanbaatar–Beijing/Hohhot ticket before- out of town that you probably won’t have NORTH OF SAINSHAND
hand in UB and arranged for someone to tell A series of small meditation caves are located to spend the night, but in case you do, try Probably the best sight in Dornogov, Senjit
the train steward at Ulaanbaatar Station not a short walk east of Shambhala. Here monks the following. Khad is a natural rock formation in the shape
to sell your seat. In Beijing, you can only buy used to seal themselves inside the caves and Jintin (x53289; dm/s/half-lux US$6/8/12) A cheap of an arch. It is about 95km northeast of
a Beijing–Ulaanbaatar ticket, but you can get meditate for 108 days. option located next to the train station. Sainshand in Altanshiree sum.
off at Sainshand. Around 23km northwest of the monastery is Khaan Shonkhor Hotel (x21608; half-lux/lux The volcanic rock formation of Tsonjiin
Bayanzürkh Uul (elev 1070m; GPS: N 44°41.644’, E 110°02.707’). T16,000/20,000) Clean and modern hotel with Chuluu looks rather like a set of hexagonal
SOUTH OF SAINSHAND Legend tells that the mountain is home to the a restaurant serving better-than-average organ pipes. It’s in the extreme northeast
Khamaryn Khiid Хамарын Хийд spirit of the third Noyon Khutagt (a predecessor Mongol fare. corner of Dornogov, in Delgerekh sum,
This reconstructed monastery (GPS: N 44°36.038’, E of Danzan Ravjaa). The temple halfway up the about 160km along the northeast road
110°16.650’), an hour’s drive south of Sainshand, mountain is as far as local women are allowed Getting There & Away from Sainshand.
has grown up around the cult of Danzan to go (although no-one seems to mind if foreign The daily train (276) to Zamyn-Üüd, via Choir Both sites can be visited only with your own
Ravjaa (p201), whom many locals believe to women go to the top). At the summit you are and Sainshand, leaves Ulaanbaatar every day vehicle en route between Dornogov aimag and
have been a living god. His image is sewn required to make three wishes and circle the at 4.30pm, arriving around 7.10am. Tickets eastern Mongolia.
into a carpet that hangs in the main hall. The peak along the well-worn path. cost T5100/12,800 for hard/soft sleeper. The
original monastery and three-storey theatre, Altangerel, the curator of the Museum of train returns to Ulaanbaatar at 5.50pm, arriv- CHOIR ЧОЙР
built by Danzan Ravjaa in 1821, was destroyed Danzan Ravjaa in Sainshand (and the fifth ing the next morning at 9.45am. Tickets cost Choir, about halfway between Sainshand and
in the 1930s. Water from the spring nearby generation in the hereditary line of Danzan T2400/6500 to Sainshand and T3900/10,200 Ulaanbaatar, was once home to a large Russian
(surrounded by a concrete building) is said to Ravjaa’s personal protectors, which extends to Choir. air-force base that was abandoned in 1992. The
hold curative properties. from Danzan Ravjaa’s assistant Balchinchoijoo) From UB you can also take the 34 express base is still there, although most of the buildings
From the monastery, a path leads for 3km can help with accommodation. Contact him at train, departing Monday, Wednesday and have been stripped to their core, leaving empty
to a bell tower which you must strike three the museum in Sainshand if you are thinking Friday at 8.05pm, arriving in Zamyn-Üüd shells and wreckage everywhere. The base and
times to announce your arrival at the ‘energy of heading to Khamaryn Khiid. The monastery at 7.55am for T20,000. It returns at 10pm on landing strip, around 15km north of Choir near
centre,’ known as Shambhala. In 1853, Danzan has very basic facilities, but the Gobi Sunrise Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Contact the the village of Lun, are an eerie ghost town of old
Ravjaa told the local people that he would die Tavan Dohoi ger camp (p200) is a 30-minute station in Zamyn-Üüd (x53340, 53108) for buildings and abandoned MiG fighters.
in three years but they could forever come to (20km) drive back towards Sainshand. more details. To promote rapid economic growth, Choir
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
this place and speak to his spirit. Indeed, he To cross the border, most people take the formally seceded from Dornogov (it is now an
died three years later and the site was marked ZAMYN-ÜÜD ЗАМЫН-YYД frequent jeeps that run between the train autonomous municipality called Gov-Sümber,
by an ovoo. Shambhala is now surrounded by x02524 stations of Zamyn-Üüd and Ereen (T12,000, with a population of 13,000) and was declared
108 new stupas (‘108’ being a sacred number The Trans-Mongolia railway line runs into 7km). The jeeps are generally quicker than a Free Trade Zone. Nothing much was done
in Buddhism). Note that major festivities are China at this small, otherwise insignificant the train. When the train arrives in Zamyn- to promote the area though, and it continues
held here on 10 September. village in the Gobi Desert. If you are trav- Üüd there is a frantic rush for jeeps and to languish in neglect.
 204 Ö M N Ö G O V • • D a l a n z a d g a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com Ö M N Ö G O V • • D a l a n z a d g a d 205

To get to Choir, train No 276 leaves National Parks 0 100 m INFORMATION

DALANZADGAD 0 0.1 miles
Hospital..................................................................1 B2
Ulaanbaatar daily at 4.30pm and arrives at Gurvan Saikhan National Park (2,000,000 hectares)

ὈὈὈὈ
Internet Café........................................................(see 5)
9.23pm. Train No 284 departs at 5.40pm Wealth of sand dunes, canyons, dinosaur fossils and A B
Khan Bank..............................................................2 A1
on Friday and Sunday, arriving at 11.33pm. mountainous terrain. Desert wildlife includes argali sheep, To Airport (5km); Juulchin-Gobi Camp (35km);
Gurvan Saikhan National Park (37km); New Government House.........................................3 B1
ibex and snow leopard. 8 Tovshin 1 (42km); Post Office..............................................................4 A1
Tickets cost T3000/6400 for a hard/soft seat. 7
Naadam
Three Camel Lodge (66km); Stadium
Telecom Office.......................................................5 A1
Mandalgov (293km)
From Choir, the train departs for Ulaanbaatar Small Gobi A Strictly Protected Area (1,839,176 1 Sports
To Mazaalai Hotel
at the unspeakable time of 3.48am. On hectares) On the border with China, includes dunes and 2 9
Palace
(300m); SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
To Maaniin Khiid Wrestler Nomin Gov South Gobi Museum...............................................6 B1
Thursday, Saturday and Monday another saxaul forest. Last great bastion of the khulan (wild ass). (300m)
Square 4
Statue (350m)
5 3 6
train departs at 2.16am. On Monday at 8am SLEEPING
a bus departs from the Bayanzürkh bus station DALANZADGAD ДАЛАНЗАДГАД Dalanzadgad Hotel.................................................7 A1
in Ulaanbaatar for Choir (T5000, five hours). x01532 / pop 13,900 / elev 1465m Monument Park Gobi Gurvan Saikhan Hotel.....................................8 A1
The capital of Ömnögov, Dalanzadgad is a Tuvshin Hotel.........................................................9 A1
The road is newly paved.
speck of civilisation in the desert, sitting in 11
Drama 1 EATING
the shadow of Gurvan Saikhan Nuruu. As the 12
10
Theatre Gobi Restaurant................................................... 10 A2

ÖMNÖGOV capital of a mineral-rich aimag, there are some

positive signs of development, including the
2
To Strictly Protected Areas
Office & Public Bathhouse
Market................................................................. 11 A2
Michid Restaurant & Bar.......................................(see 8)

ӨМНӨГОВЬ
(200m)
construction of a massive new Government TRANSPORT
House. The town is also the main base for Bus Stop.............................................................(see 11)
Jeep Stand............................................................ 12 A2
pop 46,300 / area 165,000 sq km explorations into the desert, although travel-
lers facilities are still a little basic.
Ömnögov (South Gobi) is the largest aimag Dalanzadgad. You will have to walk 1km or singing and dancing. Asian/European meals
in Mongolia, with a population density of 2km in any direction from town, and pitch are buffet-style and tasty. Lunch (US$12)
Information
only 0.3 people per square kilometre. It’s Bathhouse (admission T1000; h10am-8pm) One street your tent somewhere secluded. is the main meal of the day (the dessert, a
not hard to see why humans prefer to live north of the Strictly Protected Areas office. baked apple with raisins and custard cream,
elsewhere: with an average annual precipi- Internet café (per hr T690; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, GER CAMPS is reason enough to splurge). Visitors stay
tation of only 130mm a year, and summer 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) In the Telecom office. There are more than 20 ger camps between in luxurious gers that have easy access to a
temperatures reaching an average of 38°C, Khan Bank (x22216; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, Dalanzadgad and Khongoryn Els. A GPS unit good-quality shared bathroom. It is a great
this is the driest, hottest and harshest region 9am-1pm Sat) Changes dollars and can give a cash advance will make your search easier if you are looking way to break up a long journey. Even if you
in the entire country. against Visa or MasterCard. for a particular camp. don’t stay here, you could stop by for a drink
Gurvan Saikhan Nuruu in the centre Strictly Protected Areas office (x23973; gtzgobi@ Mazaalai Hotel (x22076, 23040; per person T5000) on the terrace.
provides the main topographic relief in this magicnet.mn) In the southwest of town, this office mostly
This small ger camp is on the eastern end of
pancake-flat region; the mountains make deals in bureaucratic affairs. For information, you are better
Dalanzadgad near the Nomin Gov store. HOTEL
Tovshin 1 (x/fax 322 728, 9911 4811; GPS: N 43°45.841’, At the time of research the Dalanzadgad Hotel
human habitation marginally possible by off at the information ger at the gate to Gurvan Saikhan
E 104°02.838’; with/without meals US$30/15) Located was undergoing extensive renovations and is
capturing snow in winter, which melts and National Park.
7km beyond Juulchin, this camp has good hot expected to be one of the best hotels in town
feeds springs on the plains below, providing Telecom office (x24110; h24hr) A one-minute call
showers and toilets, and a decent restaurant when it re-opens.
water for some livestock. to the US or Europe costs T772.
and bar, but the location is uninteresting and Tuvshin Hotel (x22240; per person T5000) Looked
Ömnögov supports thousands of black- the buildings are ugly. after by a friendly granny, the Tuvshin has just
tailed gazelle, which you may see darting Sights Juulchin-Gobi Camp (x26522; jgobi@magicnet two rooms in good condition. It’s in the same
across the open plains. The aimag is also home SOUTH GOBI MUSEUM
.mn; GPS: N 43°45.236’, E 104°07.578’; with/without meals building as the Khan Bank.
to a quarter (around 80,000) of Mongolia’s Surprisingly, this museum (x23871; admission US$40/22) This huge camp, 35km from town Gobi Gurvan Saikhan Hotel (x23830; dm T6000,
domesticated camels. T2000, photos T5000, video T10,000; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) with an airstrip attached, is popular with or- s/d with bathroom T10,000/20,000) This place is
has little on dinosaurs – just a leg, an arm ganised tours. If you rock up with a tent it’s homely and bright. The double rooms have
Tourism is an important business in the
and a few eggs. (All of the best exhibits are in possible to camp for US$5. It is about the toilet and shower, although the latter just
region and there are plenty of ger camps
Ulaanbaatar or in other museums around the same standard as the others, but the location dribbles water.
throughout the aimag. Far more important, world.) There are a few nice paintings, a huge
however, is the mining industry (legend has isn’t as good.
stuffed vulture and a display of scroll paint- oThree Camel Lodge (in UB x011-330 998; Eating
it that the aimag governor passes out business ings and other Buddhist items. The museum
cards printed with gold dust). The massive www.threecamellodge.com; GPS: N 43°53.603’, E 103°44.435’; Vegetarians could put together salad from
is on the main street, on the other side of the with/without meals US$70/35) A veritable oasis in the the fresh veggies on sale in the market (Gobi
Oyu Tolgoi copper and gold deposit, located park from the pink Drama Theatre.
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
desert 66km northeast of Dalanzadgad, over- vegetables are renowned in Mongolia for their
near the Chinese border in Khanbogd sum, is
looking a great grassy plain and spectacular sweet taste). Nearby, you’ll also see women
currently being developed by a Canadian min- Sleeping mountains, this place raises the bar for the selling jars of lovely tarag (yogurt; T500) and
ing company. When fully operational in a dec- CAMPING Mongolian ger camp, with first-rate facilities packets of sugar.
ade’s time the mine could boost Mongolia’s Like other Gobi aimag capitals, there is and food. Run by Nomadic Expeditions, the Nomin Gov (x24003; h9am-11pm) If you
GDP by more than 30%. no river or any decent place to camp in cosy lodge offers nightly performances of folk need to stock up for an expedition, this is the
 206 Ö M N Ö G O V • • K h a n b o g d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Ö M N Ö G O V • • B u l g a n 207

DINOSAURS Other weird and wonderful beasts that once roamed the southern Gobi include bone-headed
In the early 1920s, newspapers brought news of the discovery of dinosaur eggs in the southern pachycephalosaurs, which used their reinforced skulls as battering rams; the Embolotherium,
Gobi Desert by American adventurer Roy Chapman Andrews. Over a period of two years Andrews’ with a periscope-style nose that allowed it to breathe while the rest of it was underwater; and
team unearthed over 100 dinosaurs, including Protoceratops Andrewsi, which was named after Therizinosaurus (Scythe Lizard), a fierce carnivore with massive claws over 60cm long. Huge
the explorer. The find included several Velociraptors (Swift Robbers), subsequently made famous rhinos, over four times the size of an adult elephant and thought to be the largest land mam-
by Jurassic Park, and a parrot-beaked Oviraptor (Egg Robber). Most valuable in Andrews’ mind mals ever to have lived, shared the land with tiny rodents, the forerunners of modern-day
was the discovery of the earliest known mammal skulls, ‘possibly the most valuable seven days mammalian life.
of work in the whole history of palaeontology to date’. With a bit of digging you may be able to find some dinosaur fossils in the southern Gobi,
Subsequent expeditions have added to the picture of life in the Gobi during the late Cretaceous but please be aware that these fossils are very precious, and far more useful to palaeontologists.
period 70 million years ago, the last phase of dinosaur dominance before mammals inherited Locals may approach you at Bayanzag, the ger camps and even Dalanzadgad to buy dinosaur
the earth. bones and eggs. Remember that it is highly illegal to export fossils from Mongolia.
One of the most famous fossils unearthed so far is the ‘Fighting Dinosaurs’ fossil, discovered by Apart from the famous sites of Bayanzag and nearby Togrigiin Shiree, the richest sites of Bugiin
a joint Polish–Mongolian team in 1971 and listed as a national treasure. The remarkable 80-million- Tsav, Ulaan Tsav, Nemegt Uul and Khermen Tsav are all in the remote west of Ömnögov aimag
year-old fossil is of a Protoceratops and Velociraptor locked in mortal combat. It is thought that this and impossible to reach without a jeep and dedicated driver (or a helicopter).
and other fossilised snapshots were entombed by a violent sand storm or by collapsing sand dunes. There are still plenty of fossils – in 2006 a team of palaeontologists from Mongolia and Montana
One poignant fossil is of an Oviraptor protecting its nest of eggs from the impending sands. unearthed 67 dinosaur skeletons in a single week! In 2007 a Canadian paleontologist reported
A picture of prehistoric Gobi has emerged of a land of swamps, marshes and lakes, with areas finding large numbers of fossilised carnivores near Nemegt Uul. The proportion of carnivores is
of sand studded with oases. The land was inhabited by a colourful cast of characters: huge duck- usually 5% but this site had closer to 50%. Sadly, he also described how poachers remove the
billed hadrosaurs; ankylosaurs, which were up to 25-feet tall, armour-plated and had club-like skulls, hands and feet, scattering the other bones in their dirty work.
tails that acted like a giant mace; long-necked, lizard-hipped sauropods such as Nemegtosaurus, Today, the best places to come face to face with the dinosaurs of the Gobi are the Museum of
which may have grown to a weight of 90 tonnes; and the mighty Tarbosaurus (Alarming Reptile), Natural History in Ulaanbaatar and the American Museum of Natural History in New York, which
a carbon copy of a Tyrannosaurus Rex, with a 1.2m-long skull packed with razor sharp teeth up also has a fine website (www.amnh.org). As for books, check out Dinosaurs of the Flaming Cliffs
to 15cm long. by American palaeontologist Michael Novacek.

best place. A smaller version of UB’s State bus leaves from the market in Dalanzadgad of Mongolia, thanks to an enormous copper numerous stalactites. The cave and adjacent
Department Store, the Nomin Gov is located around 8am (but expect delays). and gold deposit at Oyu Tolgoi, about 40km monastery ruins are near the Chinese border
at the eastern end of town. southwest of the town centre. so you’ll definitely need a border permit from
Michid Restaurant & Bar (meals T1500) For a hot HITCHING The development of the mine is having pro- Ulaanbaatar (p66).
meal, try this restaurant located in the Gobi Hitching around the Gobi Desert, including found effects on the town of Khanbogd, which
Gurvan Saikhan Hotel. It has some reasonable to the attractions in Gurvan Saikhan National has a new health clinic, shops and a renovated BULGAN БУЛГАН
Mongolian food. Park, is impractical and dangerous. Hitching hotel (x01535-12223; r T10,000). In order to fa- There is little to see in this ramshackle vil-
Gobi Restaurant (meals T1200-1800; h9am-11pm) A between aimag capitals and out to a few sum cilitate all this change, plans are being set to lage 95km northwest of Dalanzadgad, but
decent second choice if you’ve already been to centres is possible but not easy. There won’t expand the population; come back in 15 years you may end up here as it is located along
the Michid. It’s behind the market. be anything of interest on the way so you’ll and this dusty village of 1500 people could be the main tourist route between Bayanzag and
still need to hire a jeep at some point to visit home to as many as 30,000 folks working at places south.
Getting There & Away the attractions. Make sure you carry plenty the mine or in support businesses. By virtue of its central Gobi location, this
AIR of water, food and a tent and sleeping bag for Unless you have a particular interest in cop- small village is home to large-scale Tsagaan
Both MIAT and EZ Nis airlines fly between the inevitable breakdowns. per mining, the main reason to come here it Sar (Lunar New Year) festivities, which take
Dalanzadgad and Ulaanbaatar. MIAT flights to visit Demchigiin Khiid (Дэмчигийн Хийдийн place in January or February. The two-day
are US$78/134 one way/return and EZ Nis JEEP Туйр; GPS: N 43°07.711’, E 107°07.668’) one of the festival includes camel racing, camel polo
charges US$120/216 one way/return. During Daily vans run from Dalanzadgad to Ulaanbaatar monasteries built by the famed fifth Noyon and a camel beauty contest (unfortunately,
peak tourist season – July to mid-September – (T14,000); for details call x23708. The cheap- Khutagt, Danzan Ravjaa (see p201 ). The good breath is not a key category). During
MIAT schedules extra daily flights between est way to see the attractions in Gurvan Saikhan monastery, about 20km from the town, was the event, temporary ger camps pop up to
Ulaanbaatar and Juulchin-Gobi ger camp National Park is to hang around for a few destroyed in 1937 but is undergoing a major house tourists.
for the same price. Even if you have a ticket days and ask other independent travellers to renovation project funded by Ivanhoe Mines, The Ankhsan Cooperative Guesthouse (x811 117,
to Dalanzadgad, check that you are going to share a jeep. Vans and jeeps can be hired in (the mining company exploiting Oyu Tolgoi). 811 134; [email protected]; per person T3000-5000),
the city and not just the ger camp. The new Dalanzadgad for T450 per km. Gobi people consider the rocky area around run by a friendly local named Poli, is a great
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
airport is a designated ‘international airport’, the monastery to be an important energy cen- place to stay in the town. Food is available.
but as yet has no international flights. KHANBOGD ХАНБОГД tre for Buddhism, and as a result the place gets Nearby is Ulaan Nuur (Red Lake), the largest
If you are travelling between Sainshand and a few pilgrims who come to meditate. and just about the only lake in Ömnögov. It
BUS Dalanzadgad, it’s worth taking a slight detour Serious explorers may want to carry on to may not be there when you visit because it
A daily bus travels between Dalanzadgad and to visit Khanbogd sum. Despite its apparent Lovon Chombin Agui (Ловон Чомбын Агуй; GPS: often dries out; it won’t quench your thirst
Ulaanbaatar (T13,300, 12 hours, 553km). The remoteness, the sum is set to enrich the whole N 42°35.305’, E 107°49.529’), a 50m-long cave with either – it is very salty.
 208 Ö M N Ö G O V • • B a y a n z a g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Ö M N Ö G O V • • G u r v a n S a i k h a n N a t i o n a l Pa r k 209

BAYANZAG БАЯНЗАГ bara bustard. Spring brings further waves of

Bayanzag (Flaming Cliffs; GPS: N 44°08.311´, E 103°43.667´), migratory birds. ROY CHAPMAN ANDREWS
which means ‘rich in saxaul shrubs’, is more The park also has maybe 600 or more types American adventurer Roy Chapman Andrews (1884-1960) had a restless spirit. ‘I wanted to go
commonly known as the ‘Flaming Cliffs’, of plants, a lot of which only bloom after (very everywhere’, he wrote, ‘I would have started on a day’s notice for the North Pole or the South,
penned by the palaeontologist Roy Chapman infrequent) heavy rain. The sparse vegeta- to the jungle or the desert. It made not the slightest bit of difference to me’.
Andrews (see the boxed text, opposite). First tion does manage to support numerous types Born in Wisconsin, Andrews’ itchy feet soon brought him to New York where he sought work
excavated in 1922, it is renowned worldwide of animals, such as the black-tailed gazelle, at the Museum of Natural History; upon learning there were no job openings he offered his
for the number of dinosaur bones and eggs Kozlov’s pygmy jerboa, wild ass and endan- services as a janitor (eventually working his way up to Museum Director). Adventures in his youth
found in the area, which you can see in the gered species of wild camel, snow leopard, included filming whales in the Atlantic, trapping snakes in the East Indies and hunting game
Museum of Natural History in Ulaanbaatar or, ibex and argali sheep. in Yunnan. But he is best known for his explorations of the Gobi in the 1920s, where he found
mostly, in other museums around the world. the first dinosaur eggs, jaws and skulls in Central Asia. Andrews’ most famous expeditions were
Even if you are not a ‘dinophile’, the eerie Information based at Bayanzag, which he famously renamed the ‘Flaming Cliffs’.
beauty of the surrounding landscape is a good There is a national park entry fee of T3000 According to his books and biographies, he was a real-life adventurer, who took the expedi-
reason to visit. It’s a classic desert of rock, per person. You can pay the fee and get a tions’ ambushes, raids, bandits, rebellions and vipers in his stride (the camp killed 47 vipers in
red sands, scrub, sun and awesome empti- permit at the park office in Dalanzadgad, their tents one night). He was never one for understatement: as one expedition member said,
ness. There’s not much to do once you’re here at the entrance to Yolyn Am or from the ‘the water that was up to our ankles was always up to Roy’s neck’. In reality, one of the few
except explore the area or grab a cold drink ranger at Khongoryn Els. Keep your entry times an expedition member was seriously injured was when Andrews accidentally shot himself
from the souvenir sellers who hang out on the ticket as you may need to show it to rangers in the leg with his own revolver.
edge of the cliff. later in your trip. Andrews worked for US intelligence during WWI and also explored Alaska, Borneo, Burma, Korea
Bayanzag Tourist Camp (x5053 1005; info@mon and China. He wrote such Boys’ Own classics as Whale Hunting with Gun and Camera (1916), Across
goliagobi.com; GPS: N 44°10.466’, E 103°41.816’; with/without Sights & Activities Mongolian Plains (1921), On the Trail of Ancient Man (1926) and The New Conquest of Central Asia
meals US$30/15), about 4km from the cliffs, is a YOLYN AM ЁЛЫН АМ (1932). Always kitted out in a felt hat, khakis and a gun by his side, Andrews is widely regarded
reasonable choice in the area, notable for its Yolyn Am (Vulture’s Mouth) was originally as the model on which the Hollywood screen character Indiana Jones was based.
giant tortoise-shaped restaurant. Camel rental established to conserve the birdlife in the On his return to the US Andrews took the directorship of the American Museum of Natural
here is T3000 per hour. You could camp near region, but it’s now more famous for its History but was asked to resign in 1941 after a difficult tenure during the depression years. His
the zag (scrub) forest. dramatic and very unusual scenery – it is a death in California in 1960, at the age of 76, went almost unnoticed. For more information on
Bayanzag by road is about 100km north- valley in the middle of the Gobi Desert, with RC Andrews, read Dragon Hunter, a biography by Charles Galenkamp.
west of Dalanzadgad and 18km northeast of metres-thick ice for most of the year.
Bulgan. It can be surprisingly hard to find The small Nature Museum (GPS: N 43°32.872’,
so you really need to take a driver or guide E 104°02.257’; admission US$1; h 8am-9pm) at the enced driver could pick you up on the other Dunes), they are up to 300m high, 12km
who’s been there before, or ask directions gate on the main road to Yolyn Am has side, about 8km east of the car park. wide and about 100km long. The largest
regularly from the few people who live in a collection of dinosaur eggs and bones, The surrounding hills offer plenty of oppor- dunes are at the northwestern corner of the
the area. stuffed birds and a snow leopard. It also tunities for some fine, if somewhat strenuous, range. The views of the desert from the top
A further 22km northeast of Bayanzag is sells the excellent booklet Gobi Gurvan day hikes. If you are lucky you might spot ibex are wonderful.
an area of sand dunes called Moltzog Els, which Saikhan National Park, by Bern Steinhauer- or argali sheep along the steep valley ridges. The sand dunes are also a popular place
might be worth a visit if you’re not planning Burkhart. More information in English on Yolyn Am is in the Zuun Saikhan Nuruu, for organising camel rides; locals seem to ap-
to visit Khongoryn Els. the park and its facilities can be found in an 46km west of Dalanzadgad. pear from the woodwork when a jeep full of
‘information ger’, which also sells park entry About 1km before the museum is a second tourists arrives. To properly explore the area,
GURVAN SAIKHAN NATIONAL PARK tickets. There are several souvenir shops and ice valley called Mukhar Shiveert; visitors may you will need to stay the night in the desert
ГУРВАН САЙХАН a couple of places to stay, including Tavan be required to pay T3000 to visit the site (on
top of the T3000 you already paid to enter
before returning to Dalanzadgad. There
are plenty of camping spots near the dunes
With its iconic sand dunes, ice canyon, striped Erdene guesthouse (x9953 7058; per person US$3-5)
badlands and stunning mountain vistas this which offers basic ger accommodation. the park). (you’ll need your own water) and a handful
is understandably one of Mongolia’s most From the museum, the road continues for If you are headed from Yolyn Am to of ger camps.
popular national parks. Most travellers only another 10km to a car park. From there, a Khongoryn Els, an adventurous and rough Gobi Discovery (011-312 769; www.gobidiscovery
see a fraction of it, sticking to the main sites. pleasant 2km walk, following the stream, alternative route takes you through the Dugany .mn; GPS: N 43°46.495’, E 102°20.307’; with/without meals
With more time it’s possible to drive to the leads to an ice-filled gorge (GPS: N 43°29.332’, E Am (GPS: N 43°29.521’, E 103°51.586’), a spectacular and US$35/17) is a welcoming ger camp, about 2km
remote western area – an eerie landscape so 104°04.000’) and one or two lonely souvenir narrow gorge. The gorge is blocked with ice north of the dunes. Juulchin Gobi 2 (x26522, 9914
lacking in life that you may feel as if you’ve salesmen. Locals also rent horses (T6000) until July and can be impassable even after the 8115; [email protected]; with/without meals US$40/22) is
landed on the moon. and camels (T10,000) for the trip. ice has melted, so check road conditions with about 6km past Gobi Discovery.
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
Gurvan Saikhan (Three Beauties) is In winter, the ice is up to 10m high, and the park ranger’s office at the park entrance. The dunes are about 180km from
named after its three ridges (though there continues down the gorge for another 10km. Dalanzadgad. There is no way to get there
are four). Besides its spectacular natural The ice is not particularly accommodating KHONGORYN ELS ХОНГОРЫН ЭЛС unless you charter a jeep or are part of
beauty it contains more than 200 bird spe- for tourists, and usually disappears in the Khongoryn Els are some of the largest and a tour.
cies, including the Mongolian desert finch, summer (June to September). It’s possible most spectacular sand dunes in Mongolia. From Khongoryn Els it is possible to
cinereous vulture, desert warbler and hou- to walk the length of the gorge – an experi- Also known as the Duut Mankhan (Singing follow desert tracks 130km north to Bogd
 210 B AYA N K H O N G O R Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com B AYA N K H O N G O R • • B a y a n k h o n g o r C i t y 211

in Övörkhangai, or 215km northwest to Bayankhongor, which means ‘rich chest- well prepared the area offers some magical MUSEUMS
Bayanlig in Bayankhongor. This is a remote nut’ (named after the colour of the horses – trips off the beaten track. Both museums are closed on weekends but
and unforgiving area and you shouldn’t or your skin after a couple of hours in the can be opened upon special request.
undertake either trip without an experi- Gobi sun), is home to wild camels and asses BAYANKHONGOR CITY The Aimag Museum (x22339; admission T1500,
enced driver and full stocks of food, water and the extremely rare Gobi bear. БАЯНХОНГОР photos T5000; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri), inside
and fuel. Most travellers bypass the aimag while trav- x01442 / pop 23,800 / elev 1859m the sports stadium in the park, is well laid out
elling along the major southern Ulaanbaatar- The broad avenues, cantonment-style apart- and worth a visit. There is a good display on
ment blocks and parade ground in front of a
BAYANKHONGOR Khovd road, but Bayankhongor does have
some interesting, albeit remote, attractions. monolithic Government House are straight
Buddhist art, featuring two lovely statues of
Tara, some fine old scroll paintings and tsam
БАЯНХОНГОР Some adventurous expeditionists have rid-
den horses from Bayankhongor over the
out a Soviet planner’s briefcase. There are
also large patches of waste ground as if the
(lama dance) masks and costumes.
The Natural History Museum (T1500; h9am-1pm
pop 82,200 / area 116,000 sq km Khangai Nuruu to Tsetserleg in Arkhangai. builders gave up halfway through the project. & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) across the street is filled with
One of the most diverse aimags in the Gobi, Other travellers have gone camel trek- Although the town itself is nothing special, the badly stuffed animals, a replica Tarbosaurus
this one has mountains in the north, deserts king between some of the remote towns in Khangai Nuruu, with several peaks of 3000m skeleton and some fossils, including a 130-
in the south, a handful of lakes and rivers, the south of the aimag. or more, is not too far away. You’ll probably million-year-old fossilised turtle.
hot springs and a real oasis in the far south Getting to these remote places is as much have to stay here if on a long haul to or from
of the province. expedition as common travel, but if you are the west, to start explorations to more remote Sleeping
regions in the south, or to go on a day trip to The best place to camp is probably by the Tüin
0 200 km
the nearby springs at Shargaljuut (p212). Gol, a few hundred metres east of the city.
WESTERN GOBI 0 100 miles Negdelchin Hotel (x22278; d/tr/q/half-lux/lux
Jargalant Khar
Khairkhan Uul Nuur
Ikh
Kha
irkh
Bor Khyarin
Els Khövsgöl Erdenemandal Information T16,000/21,000/24,000/24,000/30,000) Located at the
Tarvagatai
(3797m) Khomyn
Tal
an
Nu
ruu
Erdenekhairkhan Ider Uul National Bathhouse (x22652; per person T800, sauna T2000; southern end of the main street, the ‘Workers
l

Khorgo
u Go

Chandmani Zagastain Park

Yargaitin Zavkhan Davaa Uul Tariat
Öndör h10am-10pm) Located 650m north of the Telecom office. Hotel’ is Bayankhongor’s old Soviet-era
Yaru

Dörvöljin
Ekh Uul
(3464m)
Dorgon
Nuur Mongol Zavkh
Dayan Uul
(2866m) Otgon
Ulaan
The sauna needs to be booked ahead at least two hours. stand-by. Some rooms have seen renova-
an G Uliastai Arkhangai
Els ol Tenger Uul Khangai
Shar
Internet café (x117; per hr T500; h9am-10pm) tion, all have a toilet but only the lux rooms
Bumbat Khökhmörit Tsagaan Khökh (4021m) Noyon Khangai Ikh
Khairkhan Ereen Khairkhan Nuur National Park
Bulagiin
Davaa Tamir Next to the Telecom office. have a shower.
(3464m) Nuur Chuluut
Borhyn
Els Tsetserleg Khan Bank (x22981; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Khongor Hotel (x 22300, 9944 7337; tw/q/lux
Otgon Gurvanbulag
Möst
Darvi
Bayan Uul
Jargalant Tsagaanchuluut
Changes US dollars and gives cash advances on MasterCard. T14,000/20,000/30,000) Above a restaurant on
Khangai
Sutai
Uul
Khasagt Khairkhan
Strictly Protected Area
Jargalant Nuruu Telecom office (x24105; h24hr) The post office is the main road, this small hotel has clean,
National Park
Tsetseg (4090m) Khasagt Khairkhan
Uul (3579m)
Taihshir Bayanbulag Zag
Tunkhel Kh
an
also located here. modern rooms with TV, fridge and toilet.
Darvi ga
Khovd Galuut Myangan
iN
uru There is a separate shower (T1000) and
Tonkhil
Sharga
Sharga Altai
Khüreemaral Galuut
Ugalzat
Uul (3483m)
u
Sights sauna (T5000). The staff are courteous
Natural Reserve Bayan Khun
Chuluu
Delger Canyon
Erdenetsogt The skyline of the city is dominated by a stupa and helpful.
Jargalant Uul Serkh Buutsagaan Bömbögör Bayan-Ovoo Shargaljuut
Alag Khairkhan
Nature Khaliun (3070m) Uul Bayankhongor on a hill to the west of the square. If you are stay- Seoul Hotel (x22754, 9944 0884; r T18,000, lux s/d
Eguur Uneen Us Shargaljuut
Takhiin Tal
Reserve
Bij
Tögrög
Monastery
(3155m)
(Truck Stop) Uul (3137m) ing for a while, take a walk up there for views T25,000/50,000) Newly built brick-fronted hotel
Research Alag Bugat Burkhan Biger of the town and nearby countryside. A Peace in the centre of town near the Telecom of-
Gol

Station Khairkhan Gov- Tseel Buundai

Khuren Öndör Bayankhongor Nariinteel
Burgus Uul
Corps volunteer laid out a frisbee golf course in fice. The best rooms come with TV, fridge
Tüin

Uul (3789m) Altai Uul

Great Gobi (3765m) Mongo Oasis (2725m)
l Altai N Baatsagaan
Strictly Protected Area
(Gobi B)
Khuren Tovon
Chandmani
uruu Böön
Tsagaan
Övörkhangai the town park, so if you have a disc ask some of and hot shower while the more basic rooms
Uul Jinst
(3802m) Eej Khairkhan
Uul (2275m)
Zon Uul
Erdene (3452m)
Nuur
Baruunbayan the local kids to show you the first hole. have shared facilities. Locals say the restau-
Ikh Ulaan
Eej Khairkhan
Bayantsagaan
Bogd Uul
(3957m)
Bodg rant is the best in town.
Nature Reserve
Altai Bituut Orog LAMYN GEGEENII GON GANDAN DEDLIN
Rock Nuur
Bayan-
Öndör Bayangovi Tsagaan
Agui
KHIID ЛАМЫН ГЭГЭЭНИЙ ГОН ГАНДАН Eating
Shinejist ДЭДЛИН ХИЙД The hotels mentioned all have decent res-
Amarbuyant Tsagaan Bayanlig
Khiid Bulag The original monastery by this name was taurants, with the Seoul Hotel offering the
Gunii
Bayangiin
Nuruu
Gurvan Saikhan located 20km east of Bayankhongor city and best quality meals, including some Western-
Great Gobi National Park
Strictly Protected Area
Khöndii
Jartiin Khuv;
Yasnee was home to 10,000 monks, making it one style dishes. The Khongor also has some
CHINA (Gobi A) Tsav Bugiin Nemegt Uul
Daltin Khuv
Burkhant Khuv
Tsav (2769m) Khongoryn of the biggest in the country. It was levelled decent meals.
Els
Zuunmod Altan Uul
Khuv (2273m) by the communist government in 1937. The Uran Khairkhan (x22062, 9944 8999; meals T1500-
Gurvantes current monastery, built in 1991, is home to 2000; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri) If the restaurants in
Khermen
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
Tsav
Ömnögov
only 40 monks. The main temple is built in the Seoul or Khongor hotels are closed this
the shape of a ger, although it’s actually made place may be able to rustle something up
Ekhiin Gol
of brick. The main hall features a statue of for you.
Segs Tsagaan
Bogd Sakyamuni flanked by a green and white Tara. There are a few guanz nearby, including
(2480m)
The monastery is on the main street, 700m one just south of the Telecom office. Look
north of the square. for the sign: Зоогийн Газар.
 212 B AYA N K H O N G O R • • G a l u u t C a n y o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B AYA N K H O N G O R • • B a y a n g o v i 213

BAYANKHONGOR CITY Getting There & Away

0 300 m AIR SPRINGS & BATHHOUSES
0 0.2 miles
On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, EZ Nis After driving around the hot and dusty Gobi for a few days, there is nothing better than washing
A B flies between Ulaanbaatar and Bayankhongor away the accumulated dirt at either a city bathhouse or one of the springs in the area. Doing
To Lamyn Gegeenii Gon
Gandan Dedlin Khiid (150m); for US$120/216 one way/return. The airport so almost feels like losing a layer of skin as the Gobi dust can stick like a layer of film to your
Tsetserleg (205km)
1 is about 1km south of the city. The local EZ Nis body.
office (x24444, 9904 9933) is located on the south The public bathhouses are far from luxurious but they do the trick. Upon entering you pay
1
side of the square. for your visit at a little kiosk where you can also buy soap, shampoo and other beauty products.
You’ll be directed to the shower which has a small changing room. Flickering light bulbs, mildew,
HITCHING rusty pipes and generally poor maintenance make for a prison-like experience, but your body
Bayankhongor city is on the main south- will thank you for it. There is no time limit but bear in mind the Gobi’s limited water resources!
ern road between Ulaanbaatar and Khovd Many bathhouses also have a small lobby and barbershop.
(city). A lot of vehicles going in either di- Springs like the ones at Shargaljuut (or elsewhere in Mongolia) are also basic. Usually, the spring
rection stop here, so getting a ride to Altai water is piped into a small wood hut that contains an old bathtub. Use the wooden stopper to
2 or Arvaikheer shouldn’t be too difficult. block the hole in the bottom and let the tub fill with water. The wood huts are small but there is
To Tuin Gol
(350m) South of Bayankhongor, or to Shargaljuut, enough room to change. When you’re finished, just unplug the tub. Some springs are modernising
5
you will have far less success. Ask around and now have hot pools, the best of which are at Tsenkher (p129) in Arkhangai aimag.
Police
at the market, which doubles as a bus and
Government
Drama House
truck station.
Theatre for treatment at the sanatorium (h9am-6pm offers some intriguing desert sites, which can
To Stupa 6 JEEP & MINIVAN Mon-Sat Apr-Dec). be visited on a one- or two-day excursion with
(1km) Square
As a central point in southern Mongolia, Foreign guests can stay at the ger camp & hotel the aid of a jeep and a local guide.
Bayankhongor is well connected by bus, (x26503; ger/half-lux/lux US$30/30/50) at the sanato- Gobi Camels (x011-310 455; bed per person US$25)
3
11
or better still by minivan to Ulaanbaatar rium, but should try to reserve in advance by is an overpriced ger camp 6km northwest of
7 (T20,000, 14 hours, 630km). Minivans leave calling the manager, Mr Tumendemberel. town. It has hot showers and satellite TV but
4 daily and go via Arvaikheer. They stop at the A number of small guesthouses also offer usually no food so bring your own if you want
9
Cinema market in Bayankhongor, about 300m south beds for T3500 to T8000. The best is a small to stay. The other alternative is the unmarked
3 2
of the market square. ger camp on the west side of the river before and very basic hotel (per person T5000) within a
10 If you ask around at the market you should the main complex; ask for Dr Burnee who is compound on the southern edge of the town
be able to find a minivan or jeep headed to a mine of information on the area. ‘square’. It is usually deserted so you’ll have
INFORMATION
Bathhouse................................1 B1 west Altai (T20,000, 10 hours, 400km) or even Alternatively, you can camp further up- to ask around the shops for the keyholder,
Internet Café.........................(see 3)
Khovd (T30,000, 24 hours). stream next to the river on the little-used road Ms Dolumsuren.
Khan Bank...............................2 A3
4 Post Office.............................(see 3) to Tsetserleg. The best way to get to Bayangovi and its
Telecom Office........................3 A3
GALUUT CANYON ГАЛУУТ Occasional share jeeps or minivans leave surrounding attractions is in your own rented
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES This 25m-deep canyon is worth a visit if, Bayankhongor’s market for Shargaljuut transport, either from Bayankhongor or as part
Aimag Museum.....................(see 6)
Natural History Museum..........4 B3 for some bizarre reason, you are in the re- (T3000, two hours, 70km). Chartering of a longer trip. Failing this, shared minivans
Sports Palace............................5 B2 gion. The canyon is only about 1m wide in a minivan costs around T30,000 return. or jeeps occasionally run to Bayangovi from
Sports Stadium.........................6 B3
places. It is 20km southwest of Galuut sum Alternatively, try Bayankhongor’s airport on outside the central market at Bayankhongor.
SLEEPING centre, which is about 85km northwest of Tuesday and Saturday, when a minivan bound To get back to Bayankhongor ask at the post
Khongor Hotel.........................7 A3
Negdelchin Hotel.....................8 B6 Bayankhongor town. for the springs meets incoming passengers office or petrol station, and wait.
Seoul Hotel..............................9 A3 from Ulaanbaatar. In summer a local named Once you get to Bayangovi your only op-
5 EATING SHARGALJUUT ШАРГАЛЖУУТ Batbayar (x9975 1276) also makes runs up tion to see the surrounding sites is to hire a
Uran Khairkhan......................10 A4
The major attraction in Bayankhongor aimag to the springs for T20,000 one way. jeep from Gobi Camels camp.
TRANSPORT is the 300 or so hot- and cold-water springs From the springs it’s possible to take a short
EZ Nis Office..........................11 A3
Jeep & Minivan Stand............ 12 A6
at Shargaljuut (GPS: N 46°19.940’, E 101°13.624’). About cut through the mountains to Tsetserleg in AROUND BAYANGOVI
70km northeast of Bayankhongor city, the Arkhangai if you have your own vehicle. It’s With a jeep and local guide it is possible to
springs are one of the few natural attractions a lovely route but gets muddy so ask about drive to the top of Ikh Bogd, to the north of
in the Gobi region that are easily accessible conditions before setting off. Bayangovi, for stupendous views (nomads are
from an aimag capital. sometimes camped up here in summer). Orog
BAYANGOVI БАЯНГОВЬ
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
The springs and bathhouses cover the banks Nuur, featured on some maps and just north
6 To Altai 8
of the river between the peaks of Myangan The small town of Bayangovi is about 250km of Ikh Bogd, occasionally dries up thanks to
(371km)
Ugalzat Uul (3483m) and Shargaljuut Uul south of Bayankhongor (by road) in a beautiful over-use of its source river, the Tüin Gol.
12
Market (3137m). The hot water, which can reach valley dominated by Ikh Bogd Uul (3957m). About 90km east of Bayangovi lies Tsagaan
To Shargaljuut (60km); 50°C, is supposed to cure a wide range of While there is nothing of special interest in Agui (GPS: N 44°42.604’, E 101°10.187’). Situated in a
To Airport (1km) Arvaikheer (200km)
complaints and many Mongolians come Bayangovi itself, the surrounding countryside narrow gorge, the cave once housed Stone
 214 B AYA N K H O N G O R • • B ö ö n Ts a g a a n N u u r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G O V - A LTA I • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 215

Age people 700,000 years ago. It features a All of the sites mentioned above are very
crystal-lined inner chamber. Entrance to the difficult to find without a good local guide. CAMELS
cave costs T1000 (including a local guide), Bodio, the manager of the Gobi Camels ger They are known as the ships of the desert. The Mongolian Bactrian camel, a two-humped ornery
which is paid at the nearby ger. camp (see p213), can organise local guides beast with a shaggy wool coat, can still be seen hauling goods and people across the Gobi, as
Also near Bayangovi are several intriguing for US$15 per day (though few speak English they have done for centuries.
rock inscription sites. At Tsagaan Bulag (GPS: N so you really need your own translator). He Your first encounter with a camel may be a daunting experience: they bark and spit and smell
44°35.156’, E 100°20.733’), 18km south, a white rock also hires out jeeps for T450 per kilometre, like a thousand sweaty armpits. Sitting atop one you may be reminded of the unruly tontons
outcrop has the faint imprint of a strange hel- which includes driver, petrol and local guide, from Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back. But, excusing its lack of graces, the camel is a versatile
meted figure, which locals believe was created and can arrange horse and camel tours for and low-maintenance creature: it can last a week without water and a month without food; it can
by aliens. The area is also home to many herds US$5 per person per day, plus US$5 per day carry a lot of gear (up to 250kg – equal to 10 full backpacks); and it provides wool (on average
of camel, attracted to the springs at the base for a guide. 5kg per year), milk (up to 600L a year) and is a good source of (somewhat gamey) meat. The
of the outcrop. camel also produces 250kg of dung a year, and you can never have too much camel crap.
Other noteworthy sites which you could BÖÖN TSAGAAN NUUR Monitoring the hump is an important part of camel maintenance. A firm and tall hump is
add on to make a full day trip from Bayangovi БӨӨН ЦАГААН НУУР a sign of good health, while a droopy hump means the camel is in need of food and water. If
include the vertical walls of the 4km-long This large saltwater lake (GPS: N 45°37.114’, a thirsty camel hasn’t drunk for some time it can suck up 200L of water in a single day. Most
Gunii Khöndii gorge, about 70km southwest E 99°15.350’) at the end of Baidrag Gol is camels are tame, but male camels go crazy during the mating season in January and February –
of Bayangovi, and the beautiful Bituut rock, popular with birdlife, especially relic gull, definitely a time to avoid approaching one.
northwest of Bayangovi on the southern whooper swan and goose. It is possible to Of the 260,000 camels in Mongolia, two-thirds can be found in the five aimags that stretch
flank of Ikh Bogd, formed after an earth- sleep in the abandoned cabins by the lake. A across the Gobi – 80,000 in Ömnögov alone. They are related to the rare wild camel known as
quake in 1957. caretaker at the nearby ger will unlock one the khavtgai. The current number of khavtgai is considerably lower than it was just 40 years
Further afield at Bayangiin Nuruu (GPS: N for T1000. The lake is about 130km south- ago, largely because they have been poached for their meat. In an attempt to stop the decline
44°17.218’, E 100°31.329’), 90km south of Bayangovi, west of Bayankhongor city, and 18km west in numbers, several national parks in the Gobi have been established to protect the 300 or so
is a canyon with well-preserved rock engrav- of Baatsagaan. remaining wild khavtgai.
ings and petroglyphs dating from 3000 BC.
The engravings depict hunting and agricul-
AMARBUYANT KHIID
tural scenes in a surprisingly futuristic style.
Travelling further south the landscape АМАРБУЯНТ ХИЙД GOV-ALTAI Khovd aimag. Most climbers approach Sutai
Uul from the Khovd side.
slowly descends into the Gobi Desert proper,
along the border with Ömnögov aimag. Just
Located 47km west of Shinejist, this ruined
monastery (GPS: N 44°37.745’, E 98°42.214’) once
housed around 1000 monks until its de-
ГОВЬ-АЛТАЙ National Parks
over the border are numerous oases, among pop 64,000 / area 142,000 sq km The beauty of Gov-Altai’s diverse and sparsely
them Jartiin Khuv, Daltin Khuv, Burkhant Khuv struction in 1937 by Stalin’s thugs. Its claim populated mountain and desert environment
Mongolia’s second-largest aimag is named
and Zuunmod Khuv. Look out for wild ass, wild to fame is that the 13th Dalai Lama, while has led to the designation of a large portion of
after the Gobi Desert and Mongol Altai
camel, black-tailed gazelle, antelope and zam travelling from Lhasa to Urga in 1904, stayed the aimag as national park:
Nuruu, a mountain range that virtually
lizard, which inhabit the area. here for 10 days. The extensive ruins today Alag Khairkhan Nature Reserve (36,400 hectares)
bisects the aimag to create a stark, rocky
This region is rich in fossil sites. Bugiin Tsav include temples, buildings and walls and Protected Altai habitat with rare plants, snow leopard,
landscape. There is a certain beauty in
(GPS: N 43°52.869’, E 100°01.639’) is a large series of the main temple has been partially restored. argali and ibex.
this combination, but there is consider-
rift valleys running parallel to the Altan Uul Locals can also show you a small ovoo built Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve (22,475 hectares)
able heartbreak too. Gov-Altai is one of
mountain range. A number of dinosaur fossils by the Dalai Lama; out of respect no rocks About 150km directly south of Altai, the reserve was cre-
the least suitable areas for raising livestock,
found here are now housed in the Museum were ever added to the ovoo. ated to protect the general environment.
and therefore one of the most hostile to
of Natural History in Ulaanbaatar (p69). The human habitation. Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area Divided into ‘Gobi
other fossil site is at Yasnee Tsav, an eroded hilly EKHIIN GOL Somehow a few Gobi bears, wild cam- A’ (Southern Altai Gobi) and ‘Gobi B’ (Dzungarian Gobi).
region with some impressive buttes. Local ЭХИЙН ГОЛ els, ibex and even snow leopards survive, Gobi A is over 4.4 million hectares in the southern part of
guides claim they can point out authentic This fertile oasis (GPS: N 43°14.898’, E 90°00.295’) lo- protected in several remote national parks. the aimag; Gobi B is 881,000 hectares in the southwest
fossils at this site. cated deep in the southern Gobi produces a Most of the population live in the north- of Gov-Altai and neighbouring Khovd. Together, the area
Continuing south will lead to the other tremendous amount of fruit and vegetables. eastern corner, where melting snow from is the fourth-largest biosphere reserve in the world and
famous fossil site of Khermen Tsav (GPS: N This is probably the only place in Mongolia Khangai Nuruu feeds small rivers, creating protects wild ass, Gobi bear, wild Bactrian camel and
43°28.006’, E 99°49.976’), arguably the most spec- where, upon entering a ger, travellers are vital water supplies. jerboa, among other endangered animals.
tacular canyons in the Gobi. The trip here served tomato juice rather than tea. Until Mountaineers and adventurous hikers Khasagt Khairkhan Strictly Protected Area (27,448
from Bayangovi is a good seven to eight the 1920s, Chinese farmers tilled this soil with a lot of time on their hands might want hectares) The area protects endangered argali sheep and
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
hours. From here one could continue east and grew opium, an era that ended when to bag an Altai peak. Opportunities include the Mongol Altai mountain environment.
into the Gobi towards Gurvantes, Noyon and a psychopathic lama-turned-bandit named Khuren Tovon Uul (3802m) in Altai sum, Sharga Nature Reserve Like the Mankhan Nature
Bayandalai, but be warned that this section Dambijantsan came by here and slaughtered Burkhan Buuddai Uul (3765m) in Biger Reserve in Khovd aimag, it helps to preserve highly
of road is notoriously treacherous. Don’t go them all, down to the last man. Ekhiin Gol sum, or the permanently snowcapped peak endangered species of antelope.
without plenty of water and well-equipped is a good place to start or end a camel trek of Sutai Uul (4090m), the highest peak in Takhiin Tal (150,000 hectares) On the border of the
4WD vehicles. from Shinejist. Gov-Altai located right on the border with northern section of Gobi B (Dzungarian Gobi). Takhi (the
 216 G O V - A LTA I • • A l t a i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com G O V - A LTA I • • B i g e r 217

Mongolian wild horse) have been reintroduced into the hidden in a cave during the purges and recov- are available and some rooms have attached
wild here since 1996 through the Research Station. Experts ered in 1965. There may be no electricity so bath. It also has a decent restaurant.
ALTAI 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles

hope they will survive and flourish in this remote area of bring a torch (flashlight) to see the exhibits. Altai Hotel (x24134; tw/tr T10,000/20,000, half-lux/ A B
the Gobi. If you are headed south on the road to lux T12,000/28,000) This unexciting relic from the INFORMATION
Biger, check out this khun chuluu (GPS: N 46°15.830’, Soviet past, smack in the centre of town and Internet Café..........................................(see 3)

ALTAI АЛТАЙ E 96°16.484’), or balbal, said to date back to the close to the drama theatre, has long been a 1
Khan Bank................................................1 A3
Mobinet Internet Cafe..............................2 A3
x01482 / pop 19,100 / elev 2181m 13th century (possibly earlier). stand-by for Altai visitors. Staff are friendly Post Office.............................................(see 3)
Telecom Office......................................... 3 A3
Nestled between the mountains of Khasagt enough, and all rooms come with toilets, but
Khairkhan Uul (3579m) and Jargalant Uul Sleeping only the half-lux and lux rooms have a shower SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Aimag Museum........................................4 B3
(3070m), the aimag capital is a pleasant tree- CAMPING (cold water only). Russian-Mongolian Friendship Monument..5 A3
lined place, with friendly locals. It’s a poor city The road from Altai towards Khovd city goes SLEEPING
but as it’s a long way to anywhere else you’ll through a surprisingly lush plain for about Eating Altai Hotel................................................6 B3
definitely need to stop for a short while to 10km. If you have a tent and your own vehicle, The market is reasonably-well stocked with Tulga Altai................................................7 B4

refuel and plot your course to the next aimag head out here. Another great patch of ground, foodstuffs (and warm clothing). EATING
Gaav .......................................................8 A3

ὈὈ
or the national parks to the south. which you will have to share with a few cows, Both the Altai and Tulga Altai hotels have 2 Market.....................................................9 B4
is only a 20-minute walk northwest of town. restaurants serving Mongolian favourites such Sutai ...................................................... 10 A4

Information as buuz (steamed meat dumplings) and gou- TRANSPORT

Internet café (per hr T700; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat) GER CAMPS lash for around T1500. The Tulga Altai is the Jeep & Minivan Stand............................ 11 A3
Petrol Station..........................................12 B3
Inside the Telecom office. If you ask the Telecom operator Zaiver ger camp (x9948 4333; per person T10,000, better option.
you could get internet access after regular working hours. meals T3000) This ger camp is 16km from Altai. Sutai (x23567; meals T900-3000; h8am-10pm) If To Uliastai (195km);
To Airport (2km);
Khan Bank (x23773; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) The staff will pick you up from town if you you’ve been jonesing for a goulash or bowl ’o Khovd City (424km)
Bayankhongor (371km)

Changes cash, does cash advances against MasterCard and, call ahead. It’s pretty basic – no shower and mutton come down to the Sutai to get your fill
if you are persistent, travellers cheques. Mongolian-style toilets. of luke-warm Mongolian food. The restaurant 5 11 12
Police
Mobinet Internet Café (per hr T600; h11am-9pm) Juulchin Altai ger camp (x9119 4946; juulchin includes an attached billiards hall and karaoke 3 Station
4

Telecom office (x24117; h24hr) The post office is [email protected]; GPS: N 46°21.764’, E 96°12.978’; with/with- bar and also offers basic accommodation for Park Hospital
2
also here. out meals US$30/20) Located 4km west of town, around T7000. Dashpeljeelen
Khiid
8 6 Drama
Theatre
1
this ger camp offers hot showers, clean gers Gaav (x23004; meals T1000-1500; h10am-11pm Government Square
Sports
Palace
Sights and western-style toilets. Ask for Chinzorig Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sun) Clean, good-value restau- House
3

The Aimag Museum (x24213; admission T1500; or Baazar. rant located just north of the square serving
h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) includes some ex- soups, salads, goulash and tsuivan (steamed
cellent bronze statues, scroll paintings, some HOTELS flour slices with meat). One of the waitresses 10

genuine Mongol army chain mail, and an in- Tulga Altai (x23747; dm/d/lux T10,000/16,800/25,000) can speak some English.
teresting shaman costume and drum. Look This newish hotel is located in a two-storey 4
out for the 200kg statue of Buddha, which was white building near the market. Hot showers Getting There & Away
AIR
MIAT flies from Ulaanbaatar to Altai and To Khun Chuluu (12km); 9
Zaiver Ger Camp (16km);
SAVING THE SNOW LEOPARD back once a week for US$132/232 one Biger (105km) 7

The mountains of Gov-Altai are home to the beautiful and elusive irbis (snow leopard). Up to way/return. The airport and reservation of-
50kg in weight, and about 1m long (the tail is an extra 70cm), snow leopards can easily kill an fice (x23544, 9948 9665) are 2km northwest of and Naran Tuul stations (T35,000, 25
ibex three times its size. They remain solitary except during the brief mating season. the centre. hours, 1000km).
An estimated 7500 snow leopards live in an area of 1.5 million sq km across China, Pakistan, Altai is not somewhere you should expect to
Afghanistan, India, Nepal and Mongolia (where 1000 to 1500 live). The principal threats are poach- HITCHING find any reliable jeeps for hire. You are more
ing, habitat loss and wild-prey loss. Declining numbers of argali sheep and ibex have forced snow There is some traffic along the main road likely to have success in Uliastai and Khovd city.
leopards to kill livestock, which has brought them into conflict with local herders. towards Khovd and Bayankhongor, but you Shared minivans for Ulaanbaatar and Khovd
It is hoped that the establishment of several national parks, education programmes and local may have to wait a few hours for something leave from the roadside near the monastery.
income-generation projects can help save the snow leopard. Otherwise, the few pelts on display suitable. Very few vehicles travel between The best place to ask around for a share
in local museums and the odd ger camp will be all that is left of this beautiful creature. Altai and Uliastai; you will probably have jeep is at the southern entrance to the mar-
Irbis (www.irbis-enterprises.com) is a local organisation that protects snow leopards in Mongolia to wait for something to arrive from Uliastai ket. Expect to pay around T15,000 to T20,000
by providing alternative sources of income to herders in snow-leopard habitat. The company first. Almost no vehicles venture into the for a ride to Khovd or Bayankhongor.
THE GOBI

THE GOBI
sells and markets locally made handicrafts, such as felt mats and camel and cashmere goods, south of Gov-Altai.
with proceeds going jointly to producers and a conservation fund. BIGER
If you would like more information about the protection of the snow leopard, contact the MINIVAN & JEEP If you’re travelling between Bayankhongor
International Snow Leopard Trust (in the USA x206-632-2421; www.snowleopard.org). In Ulaanbaatar Altai is a stop on the road to Khovd from and Gov-Altai you’ll likely pass through
contact Mr Munkh-Tsog (x011-329 632; [email protected]). UB and you’ll find minivans departing this small village, which has a few sights in
every morning from Ulaanbaatar’s Dragon the environs.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
218 G O V - A LTA I • • E e j K h a i r k h a n U u l lonelyplanet.com

Around 13km northeast of Biger is the the base it’s a two hour walk to the top, where
run-down Shimt-els Sanatorium (GPS: N 45°43.782’, you’ll find permanent snow cover.
E 97°19.979’), where locals bury themselves in
sand and drink camel milk in hopes of curing GREAT GOBI STRICTLY
kidney ailments and high blood pressure. You PROTECTED AREA
can stay here in cabins (per person T4500) that ГОВИЙН ИХ ДАРХАН ГАЗАР
resemble WWII POW bunkhouses but expect For both parts of the park you will need a very
no privacy. reliable vehicle and an experienced driver, and
Burgus (GPS: N 45°38.362’, E 97°24.480’), an attrac- you must be completely self-sufficient with
tive desert oasis, is located around 20km supplies of food, water and camping gear. A
southwest of Biger. The oasis is famed for its ranger will probably track you down and col-
production of wines and champagnes, as well lect park entry fees (T3000 per person).
as fruit and vegetables. You may be able to buy
some of the wine in the sum centre. Gobi A (Southern Altai Gobi) ГОВЬ ‘A’
Another worthwhile sight is the ruins The majority of this 4.4-million-hectare na-
of Eguur Monastery located 17km north- tional park lies in the southern Gov-Altai.
west of Biger, on the road to/from Altai. Established more than 25 years ago, the area
About a dozen destroyed buildings and has been nominated as an International
foundations are scattered around this once Biosphere Reserve by the UN.
active monastery. The park is remote and very difficult to
reach, which is bad news for visitors but excel-
EEJ KHAIRKHAN UUL lent news for the fragile flora and fauna.
ЭЭЖ ХАЙРХАН УУЛ There are a few mountains more than
Near the base of the Eej Khairkhan Uul 1200m and several springs and oases, which
(2275m), just north of ‘Gobi A’ National Park, only an experienced guide will find. To ex-
you could camp at some delightful rock pools plore the park, start at Biger, turn southwest
and explore the nearby caves. You will need on the trail to Tsogt, and head south on any
a guide to show you around. Almost no suit- jeep trail you can find.
able drinking water is available in the area, so
take your own. Gobi B (Dzungarian Gobi) ГОВЬ ‘B’
An A-frame hut is sometimes available Although the majority of this 881,000-hectare
for rent near the rock pools, but you should park lies in neighbouring Khovd aimag, most
always bring your own camping equipment. travellers enter from the Gov-Altai side, where
About 30 minutes’ walk west of the hut are a research station (GPS: N 45°32.197’, E 93°39.055’) has
some spectacular ancient rock paintings of ibex, been set up to protect the reintroduced takhi
horsemen and archers. (Przewalski’s horse). Most of the takhi now
The mountain is about 150km south run free, although a few still live in enclosures
of Altai, and is part of the Eej Khairkhan near the research station, which is about 15km
Nature Reserve. southwest of Bij village. For more on takhi, see
the boxed text, p116.
SUTAI UUL СУТАЙ УУЛ The scientists based here can provide infor-
A locally revered mountain, Sutai Uul (4090m) mation on tour options and the best places to
is a relatively easy climb that offers good views camp. Besides takhi, you stand a good chance
of the surrounding Gobi. You can drive to of seeing argali sheep, ibex and wild ass. The
the base of the mountain from Tonkhil in park also protects wild Bactrian camel and the
Gov-Altai or Tsetseg village in Khovd. From elusive Gobi bear.
THE GOBI

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219

WESTERN MONGOLIA
Western Mongolia
With its raw deserts, glacier-wrapped mountains, shimmering salt lakes and hardy culture of
nomads, falconry and cattle rustling, western Mongolia is a timeless place that fulfils many
romantic notions of the classic ‘Central Asia’.

Squeezed between Russia, Kazakhstan, China and the Mongol heartland, this region has
been a historical transition zone of endless cultures, the legacy of which is a patchwork of
peoples including ethnic Kazakhs, Dorvods, Khotons, Myangads and Khalkh Mongols.

The Mongol Altai Nuruu forms the backbone of the region, a rugged mountain range
that creates a natural border with both Russia and China. It contains many challenging and
popular peaks for mountain climbers, some over 4000m, and is the source of fast-flowing
rivers, most of which empty into desert lakes and saltpans.

The region’s wild landscape and unique mix of cultures is known among adventure travel-
lers and a small tourist infrastructure has been created to support them. Bayan-Ölgii leads
the pack with its own clique of tour operators and drivers prepared to shuttle visitors to
the mountains. But while aimag capitals are tepidly entering the 21st century, most of the
region remains stuck in another age – infrastructure is poor and old-style communist think-
ing is the norm among local officials.

Despite the hardships, western Mongolia’s attractions, both natural and cultural, are well
worth the effort. With time and flexibility, the region may well be the highlight of your trip.

HIGHLIGHTS
Üüreg
Nuur
„ Trek to the twin peaks of Türgen Uul and
Kharkhiraa Uul (p241), a rugged landscape Tavan Bogd
Türgen Uul and
Kharkhiraa Uul
of glaciers, green meadows and boulder fields
in the shadow of snow-capped mountains Khoton Nuur

„ Camp by the shores of Üüreg Nuur (p240), a

lovely, accessible freshwater lake filled with Otgon Tenger
fish Uul

„ Climb to the top of Tavan Bogd (p231), a

mountain cluster that includes Mongolia’s
highest point at 4374m, soaring above the
borders of Mongolia, China and Russia
„ Walk around Khoton Nuur (p230), a
beautiful alpine lake dotted with Kazakh settlements around its shore
„ Horse trek around the lakes and valleys beneath Otgon Tenger Uul (p245), abode of the gods
and Mongolia’s holiest peak

„ POPULATION: 347,800 „ AREA: 191,000 SQ KM

 WESTERN MONGOLIA
0 200 km
WESTERN MONGOLIA 0 100 miles

RUSSIA

Tsagaan
Shuvuut Uul Davst
(3496m)
220 W E S T E R N M O N G O L I A

Ogotor Sagil Uvs Nuur Tes Gol Khövsgöl

Siilkhem Nuruu Khamar Strictly Tes River
Kosh-Agach Reserve Tes
National Park
Üüreg Ulaan
Nuur Davaa Protected Uvs
Davaa Area Nuur
Ikh Turgen Ancient Graves Turgen
Uul (3929m) & Balbals
Tashanta Bairam Böörög
Ulaangom Deliin
Siilkhem Nuruu Khotgor Davaa Khökh
Els
National Park Bohmörön Yamaat Valley Nuur Bird- Bayan
Tavan Bogd Türgen Uul Tarialan Watching Nuur Altan Els
Tsagaannuur Nogoonuur Olon Nuur (3965m)
(4374m) Valley Site Züüngov Altan Strictly
Tsagaan Achit Els Bayanzürkh
Kharkhiraa Uul Protected
Sala Nuur Malchin Area
T sag
aan Bayan-Ölgii (4037m) Kharkhiraa Uvs
Go Sogoog
l Gol ol
Rashany Sheveed Develiin Aral Baruunturuun G
Khovd Khyargas ar
Ikh Uul Uul Ulaankhus Nature Reserve Naranbulag Bayantes ar Gol Ag
(3668m) (3350m) Tsengel Cold Springs Tes a v
Khoton Altantsögts Tsagaankhairkhan Sh
Ölgii Khar Us Nuur Khar Temis
Nuur Mogoit Sagsai Bayannuur
Valley Ömnögöv (Ölgii Nuur) Khan Khokhii Tsetserleg
Khurgan National Park Asgat
Ölgii Khyargas Züünkhangai
Nuur Tsengel Tsambagarav Uul Nuur
Tes
Tsagaan
National Park Khyargas Nuur Khetsuu Öndörkhangai Bayankhairkhan Go
l
Khairkhan Buyant National Park Uul
Dayan Uul (3943m) Tsast Uul Khad
Nuur Tolbo (4193m) Tsambagarav
Nuur Zavkhan Sangiin Dalai
Uul Airag Songino Nuur
Altai Tavan Bogd Tolbo (4202m) Tüdevtei
National Park Altai Nuur
Sairyn Uul Erdeneburen Solongotyn

Kh
Bo
r B (3984m) Nömrög Davaa

ovd
urg Wall of
as Döröö Tsetsen Uul

G
Maraa Chinggis

ol
Nuur

Go
Khan Dörgön Chono Telmen

l
Mo Uul Myangad Urgamal Santmargats Tosontsengel
ng
(3750m) Buyant Dam Khairkhan Bayan Nuur
ol Gol Zavkhan Telmen
Khovd Nuur

Al
Khar Us Nuur Bor

tai
Khovd Zavkhanmandal Khyarin Ikh-Uul
Deluun Khar National Khar
Els Khar

Nu
Khökh Serkh Us Nuur Park Nuur
Ikh Nuur

ruu
Strictly Watchtower Khomyn
Kha
i
Tarvagatai Uul
Am Jargalant r k Erdenekhairkhan National
ur R Protected Khairkhan Tal Ikh Agui han
Yaruu Ider
iver Area Mankhan Ukh Bural
Nu
ruu Park
ol

Nature Jargalant Uul Uul Zagastain

Duut (3797m) Chandmani
G

Reserve Orgil (2357m) Man Davaa

Ger Camp Yargaitin Ekh Stones Otgon Tenger
Tsenkheriin Uul Dorgon
Uul
Yaruu

Agui Mankhan Nuur Dorvoljin

Bu
(3464m) Mongol
Kha
nga Arkhangai
Tsenkheriin Gol Uliastai (3905m)

lga
Aldarkhaan iN
Els

n
Go
l Bumbat Zavkh Tsagaannuur uru
u
Mönkh a Khökh
Khairkhan Khairkhan n Go
l Dayan
(3464m) Khökhmörit
Tsagaan Uul Nuur
l

Bulgan Mönkh Khairkhan Ereen (2866m)

Go

Khairkhan
National Park Nuur
nt

Mönkh Khairkhan Zereg Borhyn

ya

(4362m) Els
Bu

Darvi

Tü
lonelyplanet.com

r g
Tü Bayan Uul Otgon
rge Gurt Gol Tsagaanchuluut Gurvanbulag
t Go
Möst Sutai Uul Jargalant
l
(4090m)
Tsetseg
CHINA Khasagt
Bulgan Gol

Khairkhan Taihshir Zag

Khovd Uul Bayanbulag
Bulgan Gol Darvi
Bulgan (3579m) Bayankhongor
Nature Reserve Uench
Tonkhil
lonelyplanet.com

Sharga
Sharga Altai
Nature Delger Khüreemaral
Altai Bayan
Reserve
Jargalant Uul
Khaliun (3070m)
Uneen Us Buutsagaan
Alag Khairkhan Eguur (Truck Stop)
Nature Reserve Tögrög Monastery Serkh
Takhiin Tal
Research Burkhan Uul
Station Bij Bugat (3155m)
Alag Buundai Biger
Khairkhan Tseel Uul
Great Gobi Uul (3765m)
Strictly Protected Area (3789m) Gov-Altai Böön Tsagaan
(Gobi B) Mongo Nuur
lA ltai Nur
uu Baatsagaan
Eej
Khairkhan Khuren Öndör
Khuren Tovon Chandmani Uul
Uul Uul Zon Uul
(2275m) (2725m)
(3802m) Erdene (3452m)
Eej Khairkhan
Nature Reserve Bayantsagaan
History

Climate
the region.

Language
ous bug repellent.
the Caspian shores of Russia.

skinned the Chinese soldiers inside.

in Mongolia and neighbouring Tuva.

the Altai mountains. Brief snowstorms are

cially Bayan-Ölgii, Kazakh is the dominant

particularly bloody in Khovd, where a mystic
Manchu military outposts were created in
collapse of the Mongol empire, the Oirads
Prior to Mongol domination in the 13th

surprisingly cool in the Altai Mountains and

long; usually within an hour the sun will be
resisted the expansionary tactics of Chinggis

packs of mosquitoes; arm yourself with seri-

western Mongolia also attract some appalling
out again, but have a jacket ready. Summer is
common even in summer. These don’t last
Weather can be extremely temperamental in
became known as Kalmyks and still inhabit
of the Oirads, a warrior tribe that initially
century, western Mongolia was a stronghold
ferred to as the ‘Altai Mountains’) once stood

bag and tent. The low-lying lakes and rivers of

as a homeland for ethnic Kazakhs living in
into three aimags (provinces) in 1931. One
Under Ulaanbaatar rule, western Mongolia

language. Other dialects are also spoken;

In some parts of western Mongolia, espe-
you’ll need a reliable, sub-zero rated sleeping
of the three, Bayan-Ölgii, was designated
was called Chandmandi until it was broken up
Mongols, razed the fortress to the ground and
Ja Lama) gathered an army of 5000 Oirads and
Kalmyk named Dambijantsan (also known as
the Manchu empire in 1911. The fighting was
nasty. Both capitulated soon after the fall of
Khovd city and Uliastai during the Qing dy-
and expanded to the Volga. These pioneers
Khaan, but later submitted. Following the
tombs and rock carvings have been located
around 700 BC to AD 300 – some of their
ralists who dominated Central Asia from
Scythians, a vast empire of nomadic pasto-
The Mongol Altai Nuruu (commonly re-
W E S T E R N M O N G O L I A • • H i s t o r y 221

reasserted their domination over the area

as the easternmost territory inhabited by the

WESTERN MONGOLIA
WESTERN MONGOLIA 222 B AYA N - Ö L G I I lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ö l g i i 223

WESTERN MONGOLIA
border post and jeeps will be packed full of Oigor). If you are particularly interested Siilkhem Nuruu National Park (140,080 hectares)
ICE WARRIOR OF THE ALTAI people. Your best chance of finding a lift is in these remote and obscure sites, contact This park has two sections, one around Ikh Türgen Uul, the
In 2006, archaeologists in the Mongol Altai to ask for a share jeep at the markets, or hire the Mongol Altai Nuruu Special Protected other further west.
made headlines whey they uncovered a your own jeep at a cost of around T450 per Areas Administration (Manspaa) in Ölgii Tsambagarav Uul National Park (110,960 hectares)
2500-year-old mummy believed to have kilometre. If sharing a jeep with locals you’ll (see p224). Protects glaciers and the snow-leopard habitat; borders
been a Scythian warrior. The scientists save the anguish of waiting for additional pas- on Khovd.
noted that the mummy, well-preserved sengers by asking the driver to pick you up at National Parks
in the permafrost, had blonde hair and your hotel when he is ready. If you are deter- Most parks come under the jurisdiction of ÖLGII ӨЛГИЙ
sported tattoos. He was believed to be a mined to hitch, bring water, food, a tent and Manspaa. x01422 / pop 27,800 / elev 1710m
chieftain of some importance, between 30 plenty of patience. Travelling by mountain Altai Tavan Bogd National Park (636,161 hectares) Ölgii city is a windblown frontier town that
and 40 years old. Clothed in a fur coat, he bike or horse is great if you have the time. Takes in Tavan Bogd, which includes Mongolia’s highest will appeal to anyone who dreams of the Wild
was entombed with two horses, saddles mountain, and the stunning lakes of Khoton, Khurgan and West. It’s a squat, concrete affair, meander-
and weapons. Some of these treasures have
been displayed in Ulaanbaatar’s National
BAYAN-ÖLGII Dayan. Fauna includes argali sheep, ibex, maral (Asiatic red
deer), stone marten, deer, elk, Altai snowcock and eagle.
ing along the Khovd Gol and surrounded
by ger districts and rocky escarpments.
History Museum while the mummy was
packed off to Berlin for research.
БАЯН-ӨЛГИЙ Develiin Aral Nature Reserve (10,300 hectares) A
remarkable habitat around Develiin Island in the Usan
Thunderclouds brew in the mountains above
town, making for some dramatic climatic
pop 95,220 / area 46,000 sq km Khooloi and Khovd rivers. It is home to pheasant, boar changes throughout the day and brilliant light
Travelling to Mongolia’s westernmost prov- and beaver. shows in the late afternoon.
the 1500 Tuvans in Tsengel sum (district; ince gives one the distinct feeling of reach- Khökh Serkh Strictly Protected Area (65,920 The town is predominantly Kazakh,
the administrative unit below an aimag) in ing the end of the road, if not the end of hectares) A mountainous area on the border with Khovd, and you’ll soon start feeling it has more in
Bayan-Ölgii have their own language. With the earth. High, dry, rugged and raw, the which protects argali sheep and ibex. common with Muslim-influenced Central
the exception of small Kazakh children, most isolated, oddly shaped province follows the
people will understand some Mongolian and arc of the Mongol Altai Nuruu as it rolls out
possibly Russian. of Central Asia towards the barren wastes of KAZAKHS
the Dzungarian Basin. Ask anyone in Kazakhstan the best place to find genuine Kazakh culture and they will most likely
Getting There & Away Many peaks in the province are more than to point to that small plot of land not in their own country but in western Mongolia. Bayan-Ölgii,
Transport between western Mongolia and 4000m and permanently covered with gla- thanks to its isolation for most of the 20th century, is considered by many to be the last bastion
Ulaanbaatar is mainly by plane – so flights ciers and snow, while the valleys have a few of traditional Kazakh language, sport and culture.
are often very full. Transport by land from green pastures that support about two mil- Kazakhs first migrated to this side of the Altai in the 1840s to graze their sheep on the high
Ulaanbaatar is a rough and tedious six days. lion livestock, as well as bear, fox and wolf. mountain pastures during summer. They then returned to Kazakhstan or Xinjiang for the winter.
The northern route via Arkhangai has sev- These valleys are dotted with small commu- After the Mongolian Revolution in 1921, a permanent border was drawn by agreement between
eral points of interest, but most share vehicles nities of nomadic families enjoying the short China, the USSR and Mongolia.
travel along the mind-numbingly dull south- summer from mid-June to late August, as The word ‘Kazakh’ is said to mean ‘free warrior’ or ‘steppe roamer’. Kazakhs trace their roots
ern route via Bayankhongor and Altai cities well as some beautiful alpine lakes. to the 15th century, when rebellious kinsmen of an Uzbek khan (king or chief ) broke away, and
to Khovd city. The one-hour trip by air is well Ethnic groups who call Bayan-Ölgii settled in present-day Kazakhstan.
worth the money. home include the Kazakh, Khalkh, Dorvod, Traditional costume for Kazakh women is a long dress with stand-up collar, or a brightly
Though not a main traveller route yet, it Uriankhai, Tuva and Khoshuud. Unlike the decorated velvet waistcoat with heavy jewellery. Older married women often wear a white head-
is possible to enter or leave Mongolia at the rest of Mongolia, which is dominated by the scarf. The men still wear baggy shirts and trousers, vests, long black cloaks and a skullcap or a
Tsagaannuur border crossing (Bayan-Ölgii). Khalkh Mongols, about 90% of Bayan-Ölgii’s loovuuz (fox-fur hat).
With a bit of planning (you’ll need a Russian population are Kazakh, almost all of them In many gers you’ll be serenaded by women and men (and often children) who play the
visa; see p263) it’s possible to tour the area Muslim. The remaining 10% are mostly dombra, a two-stringed lute. Kazakh gers (traditional circular felt yurts) are taller, wider and more
and exit to Russia without hightailing it back small minority groups. richly decorated than the Mongolian version. Tush (wall hangings) and koshma (felt carpets),
to the capital. It may also be possible to fly The Kazakhs who live here hold little decorated with stylised animal motifs, are common. Chiy (traditional reed screens) are becom-
between Khovd city and Urumqi in China; allegiance to Ulaanbaatar and increasingly ing less common.
check with Air China for details. find business, cultural and educational con- Kazakhs adhere rather loosely to Sunni Islam, but religion is not a major force. This is because
Note that western Mongolia is in a different tacts in Russia, China and Kazakhstan. More of their distance from the centre of Islam, their nomadic lifestyle and the suppression of Islam
time zone from the rest of the country – one than 10,000 people left for Kazakhstan in the during the communist era. Islam is making a comeback in Bayan-Ölgii, thanks to the lifting
hour behind. 1990s, though some have returned. of restrictions against religion, aid packages from other Muslim countries, the construction of
The aimag has a rich collection of ar- mosques and the annual hajj (pilgrimage) to Mecca. Islamic law has always sat lightly with the
Getting Around chaeological sites, with many balbals (Turkic many Kazakhs, however, who enjoy a bottle of vodka as much as the next Mongolian. The main
Hiring a jeep is relatively easy in any of the stone figures believed to be grave makers), Kazakh holiday is the pre-Islamic spring festival of Navrus, celebrated on 21 March.
three western aimag capitals, and all three cit- bugan chuluu (deer stones), kurgans (burial Kazakhs speak a Turkic language with 42 Cyrillic letters, similar to Russian and a little different
ies are linked by decent roads. You’ll waste a mounds) and a remarkable collection of from Mongolian. The Mongolian government is trying to placate the Kazakh minority and stop
lot of time if hitchhiking in the area; trucks 10,000 petroglyphs near the Russian bor- them returning to Kazakhstan, by encouraging the Kazakh language in schools in Bayan-Ölgii.
will be most likely headed for the nearest der at Tsagaan Sala (also known as Baga
WESTERN MONGOLIA 224 B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ö l g i i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ö l g i i 225

WESTERN MONGOLIA
Asia than Buddhist Mongolia: there are history, and the 3rd floor has some interesting 0 500 m
signs in Arabic and Kazakh Cyrillic, and ethnographic displays.
ÖLGII 0 0.3 miles

the market, which is called a bazaar rather Ölgii’s mosque and madrasah (Islamic place A B C D
than the Mongolian zakh, sells the odd of learning) is worth a quick look, especially INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING
shashlik (kebab) and is stocked with goods on Friday at lunchtime when weekly prayers Bathhouse........................................1 A3
Blue Wolf Travel...........................(see 12)
Aimag Museum................................8 B2
Government House..........................9 B2
Blue Wolf.....................................(see 12)
Pamukkale.....................................15 A2
from Kazakhstan. are held, though you may not be allowed 1 INFC Office....................................(see 9) Mosque..........................................10 B2 Toganai Shaykhana........................16 B2
Jarag Internet Café...........................2 B2 Tsengel Khairkhan..........................17 B2
A friendly local population makes the place inside. The mosque holds the offices of the Kazakh Tour.....................................3 A2 SLEEPING
a welcome break on a long road journey and Islamic Centre of Mongolia. Its unusual angle Khadgalamj Bank..............................4 B2 Bastau Hotel...................................11 B2 DRINKING
Mongol Shuudan Bank.....................5 B2 Blue Wolf Ger Camp.......................12 B3 Aulum Sayajim...............................18 B2
the logical place to launch an expedition into is due to its orientation to Mecca. Post Office.....................................(see 7) Duman...........................................13 B3
the Altai mountains. It’s not the most beauti- Manspaa Office............................... 6 B2 Tavan Bogd....................................14 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
Telecom Office.................................7 B2 Nur Danesca...................................19 B2
ful city around, but give it a day or two and Courses To Airport (5km);
Ölgii really starts to grow on you. There are Mr Cheryazdan (x23358, 9942 5202) A music in- Eagle Tour Ger Camp (6km);
Tsagaannuur (69km); 20
SHOPPING
Altai Craft.......................................20 B2
reliable tour operators based here, surpris- structor at the Teachers College, gives dombra To Border Patrol Ulaangom (301km)
10 17 22 Art Shop Burkit..............................21 A2
Office (1km) 19
ingly good restaurants and some excellent (two-stringed lute) lessons for a negotiated 18 Share Jeeps
Market...........................................22
Otau Cooperative...........................23
B2
B2
4 Statue of Kazakh Bard
handicraft cooperatives selling high-quality fee. The college is east of downtown, near 2 21
3
15 Police
Station Minivans Sunkhar Supermarket.....................24 B2
BU Palace Teachers
carpets and wall hangings. the Khovd Gol. 9
8
College
TRANSPORT
Square AeroMongolia Office.....................(see 5)
Ms Zoya (x9942 3575) A local teacher who 11 6
Information can provide Kazakh language lessons. Fees
24
14 23
7
Park
MIAT Office...................................(see 5)
Trans Ölgii Office...........................(see 9)
Bathhouse (x22442; per person T1000; h9am- are negotiable.
Kazakh
National 16 5 2
1
10pm) Hot-water showers, sauna and barbershops. Monsha Theatre Khovd G
ol
is ‘hot water’ in the local Kazakh dialect. Tours 13
Immigration, Naturalization & Foreign Citizens When booking a tour with one of the fol-
office (INFC; x22195, 9942 8283; Government House; lowing outfits, try to get the owner to serve
h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Can register your pass- as your guide. If the owner is too busy you
3
port if you have just arrived from Russia. In a pinch they
may get stuck with inexperienced guides 12
can give a visa extension, which basically involves sending
and drivers.
your passport to Ulaanbaatar.
Bayan-Auul Tour (x9942 9935; ba-tours@chinggis To Khovd (211km)
Jarag Internet Café (x23732; per hr T600; h9am-
.com) Offers trips to all areas of Bayan-Ölgii. There is no
10pm) Good computers and a decent connection. One of
office; contact Bolatbek by email or phone. Eagle Tour (x9942 2100; [email protected]; couches and a TV. The lux room includes
the girls that hangs around here speaks Hebrew and likes
to chat up the Israeli tourists. The Telecom office also has
Blue Wolf Travel (x22772, 9665 2637, 9911 0303; with/without meals US$30/15) Located 6km out of a cosy living room and attached bathroom.
an internet café, but its connection is slower. www.bluewolftravel.com) Offers a variety of trips including Ölgii in the direction of Sagsai, Eagle Tour has Other rooms use a share bathroom with
Khadgalamj Bank (x22978; h8am-noon & 1- winter eagle-hunting tours. The Ölgii office is about 400m gers, flush toilets and hot showers. luke-warm shower.
4.30pm Mon-Fri) Changes US dollars and euros. Gives cash south of the ochre-coloured Kazakh National Theatre. KTS (x9942 2006; [email protected]) This camp Tavan Bogd Hotel (x23046, 9942 8877; dm/s/d
advances against Visa. Private moneychangers can also be Kazakh Tour (x9942 2006; [email protected]) was just getting underway at the time of re- US$4/6/12, half-lux s/d US$10/20, lux s/d US$12/24) This
found in the market. Friendly guide and owner Dosjan Khabyl has tailor-made is the oldest hotel in town, a communist relic
search, contact them for details. It’s affiliated
Mongol Altai Nuruu Protected Areas Administra- trips throughout Bayan-Ölgii and leads trekking tours that has seen gradual renovations over the
with Kazakh Tour.
tion office (Manspaa; x22111, 9942 9696; manspaa@ around Tavan Bogd. He speaks English, Mongolian, Russian years, including a new restaurant. It is a little
mongo.net; h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, weekends by and Kazakh, and gets good reviews from travellers. The HOTELS better than the Bastau Hotel, as the 2nd-floor
calling mobile) The office doubles as an information centre, Ölgii office is next to Pamukkale restaurant.
Hotels in Ölgii want to keep your passport rooms come with attached bathroom.
with informed English-speaking staff plus photos, maps for the duration of your stay. It is much bet-
and reading material. The office can help with your border Sleeping ter to give a photocopy of your passport – Eating
permit, sell national park tickets, provide itineraries for CAMPING
there is less to worry about if you forget to If you give some advance warning, one of
your trip and recommend drivers and guides. If you want to camp, walk east of the square
pick it up when checking out. the following restaurants should be able to
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x22462; h8am-noon & to Khovd Gol and then head southeast, away
Duman (x9942 8174; s/d/half-lux T5000/10,000/ prepare besbarmak (literally ‘five fingers’),
1-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Changes money and offers from the market and ger suburbs.
12,000, lux T15,000-17,000) This place has good- a traditional Kazakh dish of meat-and-pasta
cash advances against Visa. looking rooms and the reasonably priced lux squares. Note that the Kazakh phrase for veg-
Telecom office (x24117; h24hr) The post office is GER CAMPS
options have TV, comfy beds and 24-hour etarian is ‘Min ate jimmi min’.
also located here. oBlue Wolf (x9911 0303, 9665 2637; www
.bluewolftravel.com; per person T5000; i) Offers gers,
hot-water showers. The only problem is the Toganai Shaykhana (h11am-7pm) Opposite the
noisy disco downstairs. Bastau Hotel, this tiny café serves excellent
Sights flush toilets and a hot-shower block in a se-
Bastau Hotel (x23629; s/d/tr T5000/7000/10,500, buuz (steamed mutton dumplings; T70) and
The Aimag Museum (admission T3000; h9am-noon cure walled compound. It’s located behind the
half-lux s/d/tr T10,000/12,000/15,000, lux s/d T14,000/18,000) greasy khuushuur (fried mutton pancakes;
& 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) gives an excellent Blue Wolf café and tour office. It also has a
overview of Kazakh culture and the geography ger camp at Sagsai, charging US$27 per night This welcoming hotel has a variety of rooms T150) served with a delicious khaluun nogoo
of Bayan-Ölgii. The 2nd floor is devoted to including meals. including a handy three-bed dorm with two (chilli sauce).
WESTERN MONGOLIA 226 B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ö l g i i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ö l g i i 227

WESTERN MONGOLIA
Khasim is a silversmith by trade but has re- (just ignore it). Customs for this flight are
FESTIVALS & EVENTS IN BAYAN-ÖLGII cently entered the eagle-hunting accessory done in Almaty.
Bayan-Ölgii has several festivals that are worth planning your trip around. market, producing gauntlets, eagle hoods,
The biggest and best is the annual Eagle Festival (admission US$20), held on the first Sunday belts and leather goods. He speaks English HITCHING
and Monday in October in Ölgii city. This is a good time to shop for arts and crafts and watch and is also a two-time tae kwon do national A few vehicles, most of which are petrol tank-
eagle-hunting competitions (though animal lovers may find it somewhat cruel as live foxes and champion (of Kazakhstan) – one of Ölgii’s ers, travel the road between Ölgii and Khovd
wolves are used as bait). Contact Nomadic Expeditions (p81) for details. A smaller Eagle Festival more interesting characters. city. The Ölgii–Ulaangom road is not as busy
is held two days earlier in Sagsai sum; contact Blue Wolf Travel (p224). Otau Cooperative (x9942 9787; h9am-9pm) Sells because most vehicles head east towards
On 28 July a Horse Festival (admission US$30) is held between the two lakes in Tavan Bogd Kazakh handbags (T6000 to T10,000), felt Ulaanbaatar and use the southern road via
National Park. You’ll see horse races, kokpar (tug of war with a goat) and kyz kul (kiss the girl). mats (T10,000 to T15,000) hats (T7000) and Khovd city. Most vehicles travelling between
Blue Wolf Tours is also the contact point for this one. other handicrafts made by around 30 local Ölgii and Ulaangom bypass Tsagaannuur and
The spring festival and family event of Navrus is held on 22 March. Family visits and feasting women. It’s next to the Bastau Hotel. take the short cut via Achit Nuur.
are common. During this festival you may see traditional games and contests, including one that A lot of Russian trucks hang around the
sees men attempting to lift an ox off the ground. In another game, horse riders attempt to pluck Getting There & Away market, waiting for cargo to take to Russia
a coin from the ground while in full gallop. You can see this in most Kazakh villages. AIR via Tsagaannuur. There is also quite a lot of
AeroMongolia and MIAT (Mongolian traffic, with jeeps being driven from Russia
Airlines) share the Ulaanbaatar–Ölgii route. and sold locally.
Tsengel Khairkhan (meals T1000-2000; h11am- covered with towels so as not to offend the Schedules are erratic so you’ll need to call
7pm) Mongol-run restaurant with reason- local Muslim population, but they will still and find out who is flying. There are cur- MINIVAN & JEEP
able local fare and salads to accommodate sneak you a bottle. The gers nearby are actu- rently two flights a week. AeroMongolia Public share jeeps to Khovd city (T11,000, six
vegetarians. ally for rent, but would you really want to charges US$200/353 one way/return while to seven hours, 211km), Ulaangom (T10,000,
Blue Wolf (x9911 0303; dishes T1500-2500; h9am- sleep in a beer garden? MIAT charges US$161/281 one way/return. 10 hours, 300km) and Tsengel sum (T8000,
10pm) Run by the folks at Blue Wolf Tours, this The four-hour flight provides breathtak- three hours, 75km) leave from Ölgii market.
café is in a bright room, its walls decorated Shopping ing views of glacier-wrapped peaks as you Drivers may try to charge foreigners double
with dramatic photos of eagle-hunters and the The market (h10am-5pm) has a decent selec- approach Ölgii. here, so check to see what others are paying.
Altai Mountains. The menu includes delights tion of food supplies imported from Russia Both AeroMongolia (x9942 5081) and MIAT For Ulaanbaatar (T60,000, 60 hours,
such as American breakfast (eggs, sausage and China. Traditional Kazakh skullcaps and (x9942 8161) share an office in the Mongol 1636km), vans assemble at the road next to
and bread) and Kazakh breakfast (sausage jackets can also be found amid the chaos. How Shuudan Bank, next to the post office. A the museum.
and apple). Vegetarians will appreciate some and why the shopkeepers have ‘Boots’ plastic smaller office opens at the airport on the Many travellers looking to hire a pri-
of the salads. The taco salad isn’t particularly bags is a mystery to us. There’s a small charge mornings when a flight arrives. vate jeep for trips around the aimag turn
Mexican but does taste good. Kazakh crafts to get into the enclosed part of the market The airport is 6km north of the centre, on to local travel agents. Be careful about
are also sold here. where all the food is. A more convenient place the opposite side of the river. There is no bus, who you hire as some local tour operators
oPamukkale (x9909 4593; meals T2500- to pick up food and supplies is the Sunkhar but it’s usually possible to hitch a ride in a are quite satisfied with sending out poor-
7500; h10.30am-10.30pm 15 Jun-15 Sep, 9.30am-9.30pm Supermarket (h9am-7pm), just west of the Tavan truck or on the back of a motorcycle. quality vehicles. Kazakh Tour (see p224) has
rest of the year) A welcome addition to the local Bogd Hotel. a good reputation for hiring out jeeps.
restaurant scene, Pamukkale is a Turkish- To Kazakhstan Another decent driver in Ölgii is named
run outfit that serves authentic kebabs and CRAFTS & SOUVENIRS Twice a week, Trans Ölgii flies between Bekbolat ([email protected]).
Turkish soups. Unfortunately the doner plate If you are on the hunt for Kazakh wall hang- Almaty and Ölgii via Üst Kamenogorsk in Hiring a random driver at the Ölgii mar-
is never available (the locals don’t like it) but ings and felt rugs, check out the gift shop in eastern Kazakhstan. This flight (US$112 to ket is not a good idea – these drivers are
you may be able to score a tasty chicken dish. the Aimag Museum. It has antiques and new Üst Kamenogorsk or US$259 to Almaty, plus not accountable to anyone and are known
The Turkish desserts are also excellent but items including fox fur hats (US$70), wall T5500 tax) is a little unreliable and you can to change prices and itineraries midtrip; it’s
portions are miniscule so you may need to hangings (US$70) and felt mats (US$40). only buy a ticket in Ölgii, which means there simply not worth trying to save a few tögrögs.
order a few to satisfy your sweet tooth. Altai Craft (x9941 8119, 9142 2279; www.altai is no guarantee you’ll get on the next flight. The Manspaa office will have a list of recom-
craft.com; h1pm-5pm) This project employs 40 If you want to buy a ticket in advance, in- mended drivers who are more familiar with
Drinking & Entertainment women to create traditional Kazakh handi- quire with tour operators in Ölgii. The ticket tourists’ needs.
Nur Danesca (x23720; admission T300; h6pm-1am) crafts. You can visit the workshop, watch how agent (x9942 8161, 318 000) is in the Government
Popular with the local teen set, this modern the products are made and even take a free House. You may also want to inquire about To/From Russia
disco club is behind the mosque. (The over- one-hour lesson in chain-stitch embroidery. the latest details with tour operators in Almaty There is no public transport across the
18 crowd tends to patronise the disco in the Items available include chalk bags, yoga mats, and Üst Kamenogorsk (see Lonely Planet’s Tsagaannuur–Tashanta border; however,
Duman Hotel.) bike bags, cushion covers and wall hangings. Central Asia for details). trade across the border is brisk so if you ask
For a beer in a quieter atmosphere, try the A book exchange is also available. The work- If at all possible, don’t try to change the around the market in Ölgii you should be able
Aulum Sayajim beer garden (x23983, 9942 9094; shop is behind the market and a little hard to date of your ticket, as this always leads to to negotiate a ride all the way to the Russian
admission T100; hnoon-11pm), near the police sta- find so you may want to call ahead. ticketing problems and your new ticket may town of Kosh-Agach (68km from the border).
tion. The walled compound contains several Art Shop Burkit (x9942 9906; narbek2001@yahoo be invalid. Flights are always crowded and There isn’t much point in getting a ride just
cabanas and a tent. On Fridays, the beer is .com; h10am-7pm) Local craftsman Narbek you may be asked to pay a dubious health tax to Tsagaannuur as most cars drive right past
WESTERN MONGOLIA 228 B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • Ts a m b a g a r a v U u l N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • S o g o o g 229

WESTERN MONGOLIA
on their way to the border. It also doesn’t help Outside of these months it’s a cold, empty and
to get a ride just to the border as the no-man’s forbidding place. EAGLE-HUNTERS
land is several kilometres wide. From Bayan Nuur, a desert road travels While travelling around Bayan-Ölgii, you may come across Kazakh eagle-hunters. If you ask
It’s a similar scenario going the other way; east through a Martian landscape of red boul- gently, the Kazakhs may proudly show you their birds, though actual hunting only takes place
you are best off getting a ride all the way to ders and rocky mountains. Near the town of in winter.
Ölgii from Kosh-Agach as there is nothing at Bayannuur and close to the Khovd Gol is an Eagle-hunting is a Kazakh tradition dating back about 2000 years (Marco Polo mentions it in
the border itself. Kazakh and Mongol traders interesting white-stone balbal (Turkic stone statue; his Travels). Female eagles are almost always used as they are one-third heavier than the males
at the market in Kosh-Agach are your best GPS: N 48°50.533’, E 091°16.525’). and far more aggressive. Young birds around two years’ old are caught in nearby valleys and
hope for a ride. To explore the area, you’ll definitely need then ‘broken’ by being tied to a wooden block so that they fall when they try to fly away. After
a driver who knows the region well. Contact two days they are exhausted and ready for training, which involves being kept on a pole called
TSAMBAGARAV UUL NATIONAL PARK one of the tour operators in Ölgii (p224) a tugir, and catching small animal skins or lures called shirga. The eagles are trained to hunt
ЦАМБАГАРАВ УУЛ or Marka’s Ger Camp in Khovd (p234) to marmots, small foxes and wolves (eagles have vision eight times more acute than humans),
The permanently snow-capped Tsambagarav arrange a trip. The area lies in a national and release them to the hunter, who clubs the prey to death. Part of the meat is given to the
Uul straddles the border between Khovd and park zone so expect standard park entry fees eagles as a reward.
Bayan-Ölgii aimags and is accessible from to apply. Tools of the trade include the tomaga (hood), bialai (gloves) and khundag (blanket to keep
either side. Despite its altitude of 4208m, the the bird warm). If well trained, a bird can live and hunt for about 30 years. Most hunters train
summit is relatively accessible and easy to TOLBO NUUR ТОЛБО НУУР several birds in their lifetime. When a bird dies, it is buried in the ground as if it were part of
climb compared with Tavan Bogd, but you’ll Tolbo Nuur (GPS: N 48°35.320’, E 090°04.536’) is about the family.
need crampons and ropes. A neighbouring 50km south of Ölgii, on the main road be- The most likely places to find a Kazakh eagle-hunter are in the mountain region of Tsast Uul
peak, Tsast Uul, is slightly shorter at 4193m and tween Ölgii and Khovd city, so it’s an easy between Khovd and Bayan-Ölgii, and the Deluun, Tsengel and Bayannuur regions of Bayan-Ölgii.
also good for climbing. day trip or stopover. The freshwater lake is For an up-close-and-personal look at the sport, try the Eagle Festival (p226).
The southern side of the mountain (near high (2080m), expansive and eerie but the
the main Khovd–Ölgii road) contains the shoreline is treeless and there are a few mos-
Namarjin valley, where there are outstanding quitoes (camp away from the marshy shore- rivers in the area include the Gurt and For transport to Sogoog you can ask around
views of Tsambagarav. From here you can line). There are a few gers around the lake, Türgen rivers. the market in Ölgii or hire your own vehicle at
head west and then south to rejoin the main and the water is clean enough for swimming Confusingly, the road comes out of the a cost of T450 per kilometre. Another option
Khovd–Ölgii road, via several Kazakh settle- if you don’t mind icy temperatures. gorge at Bulgan sum in Khovd aimag. The is to contact a local named Amaka (x9942 5205)
ments and a beautiful turquoise lake. A major battle was fought here between mosquito-infested Mongolian–Chinese bor- who has contacts with Sogoog drivers.
An alternative route from the Khovd side the Bolsheviks and White Russians, with the der post sees many petrol tankers but is closed
leads from the town of Erdeneburen (where you local Mongolian general, Khasbaatar, siding to foreign travellers. ALTAI TAVAN BOGD NATIONAL PARK
can see a deer stone dating back to the pre- with the Bolsheviks. The Bolsheviks won and A locally run ger camp (bed with meals US$25) in АЛТАЙ ТАВАН БОГД
Mongol era) and up the mountainside to the there are a couple of memorial plaques by Bulgan can organise horse trips in the area; This beautiful park stretches south from
Bayangol Valley. The valley itself is nothing the lake. contact Jagaa ([email protected]). Tavan Bogd and includes the stunning lakes of
special but there are fine views southeast to Khoton Nuur and Khurgan Nuur (and the less
Khar Us Nuur and you might be able to rent TOLBO TO BULGAN SOGOOG СОГООГ interesting Dayan Nuur). It’s a remote area
a horse for the hour-long ride to the Kazakh- The southern road through the spine of This miniscule village (pop 1200), a 1½-hour divided from China by a high wall of snow-
populated Marra valley. the Mongol Altai Nuruu, one of the most drive northwest from Ölgii (or 20-minute capped peaks and known to local Kazakhs as
The Bayan-Ölgii (northern) side of the remote roads in the country, is the back drive past Ulaankhus), is a good place to stop the Syrgali region.
mountain is even more impressive. To reach door into Khovd aimag. From Tolbo sum en route to Tavan Bogd. The village recently The three lakes are the source of the Khovd
the massif, a steep pass runs between Tavan centre, which has an interesting mosque, it’s opened a handicraft cooperative and a kinder- Gol, which eventually flows into Khar Us
Belchiriin Uul and Tsast Uul. Between the an easy detour to Döröö Nuur and nearby garten, both of which are open to visitors. Nuur in Khovd aimag. It’s possible to make
mountains is a 7m-high waterfall (GPS: N Sairyn Uul, an increasingly popular place for The cooperative welcomes volunteer English rafting trips down river from Khoton Nuur. No
48°44.741’, E 090°42.378’) that flows down a nar- horse trekking. teachers, who are given free lodging for a few agencies offer rafting trips at present, but you
row gorge. A couple of kilometres to the east The next sum south of Tolbo is Deluun, days or weeks. While in town you can learn to could check with the Protected Areas office.
of the waterfall is a glacier and small glacial famed for its eagle-hunters and the starting make yak yogurt, comb cashmere from goats Tsengel, Mongolia’s westernmost town, is
lake. Serious mountaineers can hike up the point for a horse trek through the Khökh or learn Kazakh embroidery. the jumping-off point for the southern part
glacier to the peak. Serkh Strictly Protected Area to Khovd city. At the cooperative you can get fresh cof- of the park. It occupies a nice setting amid
From the glacier, the road dips through Further south, the road winds through the fee, espresso and pancakes, and if you give the mountains and there is good camping
some spectacular rocky gorges before finally spectacular canyon lands of Bulgan sum, advance notice the locals can bake cookies and away from town, by the river. There are
tumbling down to Bayan Nuur, a small, slightly on the western flank of 4362m Mönkh apple tart! ‘Advance notice’ is two or three a couple of guanz (canteens or cheap res-
salty lake. Khairkhan Uul. From here it’s a very rough days and the village has no phone so you’ll taurants) and a small market, but no hotel.
The best time to visit the massif is late six-hour drive through the Bulgan Gol gorge, need to contact Barb (x9979 6838; barbmongolia@ Hiring a jeep could be difficult; you are bet-
June to late August, when it’s populated which is navigable by kayak at the end of yahoo.com), the English-speaking contact who ter off bringing one from Ölgii. The Tavan
by Kazakh nomad camps. You can rent June if you can stand the mosquitoes and can forward information to the village. Once Bogd area is best reached via Ulaankhus
horses from the nomads to explore the area. happen to have a kayak. Other navigable in town, ask for Kakila or Baatarjav. (see p231).
WESTERN MONGOLIA 230 B AYA N - Ö L G I I • • A l t a i Ta v a n B o g d N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H O V D 231

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Permits The best petroglyphs in the area, if not all make sure you are walking up the next need border permits to visit the mountain and
Park entry fees are the standard T3000 per of Central Asia, can be found at Tsagaan valley, Tsagaan Us Gol Valley (good maps will have to pay national park fees.
person. Fishing permits cost T500 per day, but Sala (aka Baga Oigor), on the route between are essential).
fishing is not permitted between 15 May and Ulaankhus and Tavan Bogd. The drawings, Sleeping & Eating
15 July (there is a US$50 fine). The main entry more than 10,000 of them, are scattered over TAVAN BOGD ТАВАН БОГД There is no official accommodation in the
to the park is by the bridge over the Khovd a 15km area; you’ll need a guide to find the Tavan Bogd (Five Saints) is a soaring clus- park (the aforementioned Aksu Rashan Suvlal
Gol, south of Tsengel. You can pay for permits best ones. ter of mountains that straddles the border has no permit to operate and may be shut
there, or at the Manspaa office in Ölgii (p224) between Mongolia, Russia and China. The down by the time you arrive), so you’ll need
or from rangers around the lake. It’s best to THE LAKE REGION highest peak in the range, Khuiten Uul (Cold Peak; to camp and be completely self-sufficient.
get one from the office in Ölgii if you can as This is one of the most beautiful regions in 4374m), is the tallest mountain in Mongolia The best camping spots are around the lakes.
rangers in the park can be hard to find. If you the park, with the scenery growing more spec- and is of interest to professional climbers. Dayan Nuur has some nasty mosquitoes but
go into the park without a permit the border tacular the further west you travel. The area It’s fairly dangerous to climb: you need to be the other two lakes are largely bug free. The
police will give you trouble. is best explored on foot or horseback. Kazakh with an experienced group, properly equipped lakes teem with fish. Tavan Bogd also has
You definitely need a border permit as families living around Khoton Nuur in sum- with ice axes, crampons and ropes; don’t even camping spots but it’s always cold here. At
well. It’s best to get one in Ulaanbaatar but, mer can rent horses. consider attempting it solo. The best time Syrgal (GPS: N 48°36.004’, E 88°26.672’), between the
failing that, try the Border Patrol office (Khiliin The shoreline of Khurgan Nuur is dry and to climb is August and September, after the lakes, there are a couple of very basic shops
Tserenk Alb; x22341; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) in exposed. Few people travel along its south- worst of the summer rains. selling sweets, vodka, water and little else.
Ölgii, located a couple of kilometres from ern shore but if you are going this way there Besides Khuiten, the range includes
the centre. The permit will be checked by is a stupa-like construction and several Naran (Sun), Ölgii (Land), Bürged (Eagle) Getting There & Away
the border guards at Dayan Nuur, Tavan burial sites. Nearby is a balbal (GPS: N 48°32.006’, and Nairamdal (Friendship) uuls. In 2006 The main road from Tsengel leads 38km south
Bogd base camp, Aral Tolgoi (western end of E 88°28.549’). the president of Mongolia climbed Khuiten to the bridge over the Khovd Gol (there’s a
Khoton Nuur) and Syrgal (the point where The northern shore along Khoton Nuur has and renamed it Ikh Mongol; however, no- T400 toll) and then continues 33km to the
Khoton Nuur meets Khurgan Nuur). If you excellent camping spots, especially around one seems to use this name and it’s not in- junction of Khoton and Khurgan nuurs,
don’t have a permit you will be fined about Ulaan Tolgoi (Red Head), the spit of land that cluded on new maps, so for now we’ll stick where there is a bridge across the wide water
US$100 and given 72 hours to leave the area. juts majestically into the lake. The northern with Khuiten. channel between the two lakes.
The soldiers have nothing to do with the na- tip of the lake is marked by Aral Tolgoi (Island Even if you are not a climber, it’s worth A more scenic route takes you from Sagsai
tional park and cannot be negotiated with. Head), a unique hill surrounded by verdant trekking up to the Khuiten Uul base camp (elev over a pass and up the beautiful Khargantin
Note that your guide and driver will need pastureland and rocky escarpments. A bor- 3092m; GPS: N 49°09.036’, E 87°56.528’), where you can
Gol valley, past Tsengel Khairkhan Uul and
their Mongolian passports. der station at the northern end of the lake will get stunning views of all the peaks as well as Khar Nuur, and then down to Dayan Nuur.
At the time of research border permits check to see if your border permit is in order. the 12km-long Potanii glacier, which tumbles A good option would be to enter the park this
were free, but this may change. Processing Coming around the southern shore of out of the range. It’s possible to walk onto way and exit via the main road. It’s possible
the permit takes between 10 minutes and an Khoton Nuur, you can camp in secluded coves the glacier but be careful of deep snows and to drive from Dayan Nuur to Buyant by jeep,
hour. You must bring your original passport or explore the valleys that lead towards China. crevasses. If you’re not too exhausted already, but you’ll need an experienced driver who
(no photocopies accepted) and be prepared There are some difficult river crossings on head to the top of Malchin Peak. The three-hour knows the way.
to describe your itinerary. Also note that you your way back to Syrgal. walk is rewarded with views of Russia and the Getting to Tavan Bogd can be tricky. On the
cannot get a border permit on your own; you About 25km northwest of Khoton Nuur surrounding mountains. map the shortest route looks to be via Tsengel
need to be with a guide or local affiliate. you can also visit Rashany Ikh Uul, an area Note that there are two trails to the base and up the Tsagaan Gol. From Tsengel, head
of 35 hot springs (GPS: N48°55.655’, E88°14.288’). The camp. One starts from the end of the road in across the river and travel 110km to the end of
Sights springs (which are really just luke-warm) are Tsagaan Gol Valley. From here it’s a 14km trek the road. There is no bridge across the Khovd
There are many archaeological sites in the facilitated by Aksu Rashan Suvlal (x9942 2979; per to the base camp. The trailhead has a ranger Gol, however, so after heavy rain it’s difficult
region. Mogoit Valley (Snake Valley) contains person with breakfast US$10), a small ger camp run by station and a place to camp. Across the river to cross. The alternative route from Khovd is
a moustachioed balbal (GPS: N 48°44.099’, E 88°38.930’) a local entrepreneur. The springs are around are some gers occupied by an extended family via Ulaankhus and up the Sogoog Gol. You
and a Kazakh cemetery with an interesting 33°C to 36°C and cost US$5 to enter. of Tuvans. They can rent horses (T5000) and can continue strait to Tavan Bogd but it’s more
beehive-shaped mausoleum about 2km to Northwest of Khoton Nuur the mountains one of the younger family members can guide interesting to go over Hagiin Davaa (Hagiin
the north. Yet another balbal (GPS: N 48°39.506’, E close in and there’s some fine hiking possibili- you up to the base camp (for around T4000). Pass) which leads to Tsagaan Gol. From Ölgii
88°37.863’) can be found south of Mogoit Valley, ties. For experienced backcountry walkers, it From here, the shortest route is via the Tarmid city to the end of the road is 190km.
on the way to Khurgan Nuur. More inter- is even possible to travel up river for 90km Pass. It takes about three hours by horse or
esting Kazakh cemeteries and ancient burial
mounds are easily spotted from the road.
all the way to Tavan Bogd. It is a five-day
walk and you’ll need to be completely self-
four to five hours on foot. To return from
the base camp, follow the Tsagaan Gol back
KHOVD ХОВД
Closer to Tavan Bogd, Sheveed Uul (3350m) sufficient. Be prepared for border-permit to the trailhead. The route is a little longer but pop 92,400 / area 76,000 sq km
contains some fascinating petroglyphs (GPS: N checks en route. It’s usually not possible to offers better views. Khovd aimag has long been a centre for
49°06.238’, E 88°14.918’) depicting wild animals and cross until early July because of deep snows The other trail to base camp begins in the trade, business and administration in west-
hunting scenes. Keep your eyes peeled (and on the highest pass (Dakilbay Davaa). Sogoog Gol valley (north of Tsagaan Gol); ern Mongolia, a status that began during
binoculars ready) for ibex which inhabit the Note that Khar Tsalaagiin Gol is in a re- from here it’s 17km to the base camp. This the Qing dynasty when the Manchus built a
mountain above. stricted border area and should be avoided; trailhead also has a ranger station. You will military garrison here. The aimag still does
WESTERN MONGOLIA 232 K H O V D • • K h o v d C i t y lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels K H O V D • • K h o v d C i t y 233

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robust trade with China through the border food processing and textiles manufacturing. INFORMATION
at Bulgan and its Agricultural University is It also has the region’s busiest airport, one
KHOVD CITY 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Bathhouse...............................................................1 B3
Internet Café........................................................(see 5)
the largest of its kind outside Ulaanbaatar. reason why so many tourists end up here. A B
Internet Kafé...........................................................2 B2
The province is set to become a major pro- The town offers a few sights to keep you To Marka's Ger Camp (2km);
To Red Goat
Mountain (3km); Khar Us Nuur National Park Office..........................3 B1
Shuutiin Tokhoi Ger Camp (6km);
ducer of energy, once the hydro-electric busy for a day and some pleasant ger camps Ölgii (211km) 12
Ger Camp (6km);
Ulaangom (238km)
Mongol Shuudan Bank........................................... 4 A2
power plant on the Chono-Khairaikh Gol outside town. Shops are well stocked and there 8 Post Office...........................................................(see 5)
1 ol Telecom Office.......................................................5 B1
is complete. are plenty of jeeps, making this a good place G
XAC Bank...............................................................6 B3
Besides its developing economy, Khovd to launch a trip to the Altai Mountains or yan
t Zoos Bank.............................................................. 7 A2
Bu
is notable for being one of the most hetero- the lakes region. Khovd city also boasts a sig-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
geneous aimags in Mongolia, with a Khalkh nificant population of Kazakhs – some local 5
3
Akhmet Ali Mejit.....................................................8 B1
majority and minorities of Khoton, Kazakh, Kazakh women have set up a felt-making craft 4 11 Aldanjavyn Ayush...................................................9 B2
Uriankhai, Zakhchin, Myangad, Oold and cooperative that is worth visiting. Police
Station
Galdan Boshigt.....................................................10 B2
Torguud peoples. Its terrain is equally var- 20 Museum...............................................................11 B2
Sangiin Kherem.....................................................12 B1
ied, with large salt lakes, fast-flowing rivers Information 13 To Nomin
Delguur Türeemel Amarjuulagai Khiid................................13 B2
and the Mongol Altai Nuruu almost bisecting Bathhouse (x23690; shower/sauna T900/3500; 2 Town
16 18 (250m);
Altai
Drama
the aimag. h9am-10pm) Just north of the market. Government
Square
Theatre
(424km) SLEEPING
Agricultural University Dorms...............................14 B2
Khovd is a character-filled place; you Internet café (x22472; per hr T460; h8am-10pm Hospital House 10 9
Buyant Hotel.........................................................15 B2
15 21 14
could spend a day with Kazakh carpet mak- Mon-Fri) Inside the Telecom office. 17 Park
7 Khovd Hotel..........................................................16 B2
2
ers in Khovd city, learn throat singing from Internet Kafé (per hr T400; h10am-10pm) Open on Myangan Ugalzit Hotel........................................ 17 A2
the old masters in Chandmani or hang out weekends as well. To Naadam
Stadium
EATING
with an emanation of the Green Tara in Khar Us Nuur National Park office (x/fax 22539; (700m)
6
19
Ikh Mongol...........................................................18 B2
Sports
Dörgön. If you have a little time to spend [email protected]; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Op- Palace Petrol Naran Restaurant..................................................19 B3
in the area, there are also good ecotour- posite the Telecom office, this office gives information on, 1
22
Station Tsomorlig Kafé.....................................................20 B2
ism opportunities around Khar Us Nuur and permits for, nearby Khar Us Nuur National Park. 3
SHOPPING
and fantastic hiking opportunities around Mongol Shuudan Bank (x24004; h8am-5pm Mon- Khovd Handicraft Cooperative..............................21 B2
Tsambagarav Uul (4202m; see p228), on the Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Gives cash advances against MasterCard. Market..................................................................22 B3
border with Bayan-Ölgii. Telecom office (x22471; h24hr) The post office is To Airport (5km);
Möngön Uul Camp
Jeep &
Minivan
Stand TRANSPORT
also located here. (8km)
AeroMongolia Office...........................................(see 4)
National Parks XAC Bank (x22669; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Changes EZ Nis Office........................................................(see 6)
Bulgan Gol Nature Reserve (1840 hectares) On the money and gives cash advances on travellers cheques. conquered and brutally governed Mongolia.
southwestern border with China, it was established to help Zoos Bank (x24004; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- The 40,000-sq-metre walled compound once of the city (in the former billiards club) but
preserve minj (beavers), sable and stone marten. A border 2pm Sat) Changes dollars but not travellers cheques. Gives contained several temples, a Chinese grave- it’s not all that active.
permit is required. cash advances against MasterCard. yard and the homes of the Manchu rulers,
Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area (also known as though there’s little left to see. Three enor- TOWN SQUARE
‘Gobi B’) Created to protect khulan (wild ass), gazelle, Sights mous gates provided access. At one time Two statues in the town square honour local
jerboas and takhi (wild horses). MUSEUM there was a moat (2m deep and 3m wide) heroes. One of them, Aldanjavyn Ayush (1859–
Khar Us Nuur National Park (850,272 hectares) Pro- The museum (x9943 4502; admission T2000; h8am- around the 4m-high walls, but this has been 1939), was a local revolutionary hero who
tects the breeding grounds for antelope and rare species of noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) is located on a corner near completely filled in. The 1500-man Chinese agitated against the Manchus to lower taxa-
migratory pelican, falcon and bustard. the police station and has the usual collec- garrison was destroyed after a 10-day siege tion and was made head of Tsetseg sum after
Khökh Serkh Strictly Protected Area (65,920 tion of stuffed wildlife, plus some excellent and two-day battle in August 1912. The one the 1921 revolution. The other statue (close
hectares) On the northwestern border with Bayan-Ölgii, it ethnic costumes, Buddhist and Kazakh art legacy of Manchurian rule that has remained to the Government House) is of Galdan Boshigt
helps protect argali sheep, ibex and snow leopard. and a snow-leopard pelt tacked up on the is the 200-year-old trees that line the streets (1644–97), ruler of the Zuungar Mongols.
Mankhan Nature Reserve (30,000 hectares) Directly wall. One of the more interesting exhibits of Khovd city. Although only a blip on the pages of history,
southeast of Khovd city, it preserves an endangered species is the re-creation of the cave paintings at While you are around this part of town, the Galdan Boshigt’s military victories in Central
of antelope. Tsenkheriin Agui (p236), which is actually nearby mosque Akhmet Ali Mejit, constructed Asia gave him brief rule over the Silk Road
Mönkh Khairkhan National Park Established in 2006, better than the original. There are also several in 2000, is worth a look. Friday services are cities Samarkand and Bukhara.
this protects an important habitat for ibex and argali sheep. examples of the many deer stones scattered held at 2.30pm.
around the aimag, plus a model of the original Sleeping
KHOVD CITY ХОВД Manchurian fortress. TÜREEMEL AMARJUULAGAI KHIID CAMPING
x01432 / pop 31,000 / elev 1406m ТҮРЭЭМЭЛ АМАРЖУУЛАГАЙ ХИЙД There are fine camping spots along the Buyant
Khovd city is a pleasant tree-lined place de- SANGIIN KHEREM (MANCHU RUINS) The original Shar Süm (Yellow Temple) was Gol; head out of the town towards Ölgii, turn
veloped by the Manchus during their 200-year САНГИЙН ХЭРЭМ built outside of Khovd in the 1770s but was right (downstream) at the river, and pitch
rule in Outer Mongolia. Somewhat more de- At the northern end of the city are some completely destroyed during the Stalinist your tent anywhere. It can get buggy here in
veloped than other cities in western Mongolia, crumbling walls built around 1762 by the purge of 1937. The monastery (admission T2000; late summer so make sure you have adequate
it boasts an Agricultural University and some Manchu (Qing dynasty) warlords who once h9am-5pm) was recently relocated to the centre insect repellent.
WESTERN MONGOLIA 234 K H O V D • • K h o v d C i t y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H O V D • • K h a r U s N u u r N a t i o n a l Pa r k 235

WESTERN MONGOLIA
GER CAMPS main street. Ask for the house specialty, on-
o Shuutiin Tokhoi (x 9943 8200; bayar dogtei hurag (fried eggs and meat). THE GREEN TARA OF KHOVD
[email protected]; GPS: N 48°02.960’, E 091°40.253’; per Ikh Mongol (x22388; meals T1500-2500; h9am- In Dörgön sum, two hours drive from Khovd city, an elderly woman is performing miracles.
person T10,000) About 6km from town, this midnight) Mongolian-themed restaurant that Megjin, 60, has spent the past several years clearing out a demon-infested charnel ground near
basic camp is run by a local school teacher goes all out with traditional leather art and the shores of Khar Us Nuur. The once-barren ground has been planted with more than 3500 trees
named Bayarkhuu (locals know the place as wolf pelts on the walls. The menu, how- and shrubs; several Buddhist temples have also been erected here.
Bayarkhuu camp). It has a gorgeous location ever, is mainly Chinese dishes with a few Megjin, clearly no ordinary granny, is in fact a certifiable Green Tara (Buddha of enlightened
along the Buyant Gol, at the foot of sheer Mongolian stand-bys. In the late evening activity) recognised as such when she was seven. The threat of persecution by local communists
cliffs that make for good rock climbing. You it’s mainly a beer bar. kept her identity under wraps but locals still took her title seriously. It is said that her mother’s
can buy meals for T2000. It’s just past a half- pregnancy lasted three years and local doctors had wrongly assumed that the woman was car-
abandoned chicken farm. SELF-CATERING rying an enormous tumour in her belly. In 2006 Megjin was officially recognised as a Tara by the
Marka’s Ger Camp (x9943 8849; markasl2002@yahoo The daily market, south of the town centre, is Mongolian government and was given an enthronement ceremony in Ulaanbaatar.
.com; GPS: N 48°01.360’, E 091°37.685’; per person T10,000) Just large, lively and well stocked. Khovd aimag Megjin’s Buddhist park overlooks Kar Us Nuur and is surrounded by a landscape of green, red,
2km from town, next to the Buyant Gol, this is justifiably famous for its miniature wa- black and white rocks. As Megjin explains, the place is connected to Khamaryn Khiid (see p202)
is a reasonable place to stay if you don’t have termelons (normally best in late summer), through an underground geomantic line.
your own transport. It includes two Kazakh which are available at the market.
gers and meals are available. Contact Marka Probably the easiest place to shop is the
at the Khovd Handicraft Cooperative. Nomin Delguur (h10am-7pm), a big and modern HITCHING hours, 238km) but, again, something should
Möngön Uul (x9943 7770; mungun_uul@yahoo supermarket on the eastern side of town. Hitching to anywhere from Khovd is a has- come up.
.com; GPS: N 47°56.425’, E 091°34.803’; per person T13,000) sle and not recommended. Your time will be Jeeps cost around T450 per kilometre, in-
Slightly better setup than the other two camps, spent more wisely slugging it out on a share cluding petrol. Ask around at the market. The
but the location is dry and exposed. It’s 3km Shopping Furgon (Russian-made minivan) or jeep. If road from Khovd city to Ölgii is pretty good;
southwest of the airport. The Khovd Handicraft Cooperative (x9943 8849), you do hitch, the easiest destination is prob- to Altai it is rough and boring in patches;
made up of 12 local women, produces and ably Ölgii and you might get a lift from other and to Ulaangom the road is often marred
HOTELS
sells handmade felt carpets and wall hang- tourists. Although it’s the main highway by broken bridges and flooded rivers after
Agricultural University Dorms (x22178; dm T5000) ings. You can meet the women in their to Ulaanbaatar, hitching to Altai (in Gov- heavy rain.
Clean and bright basic rooms, run by the local homes and purchase their work, or you can Altai aimag) isn’t easy and you may end up
university. Bathrooms are detached. buy it from a shop next to the Buyant Hotel. stranded halfway in Darvi (Дарви). Darvi has a KHAR US NUUR NATIONAL PARK
Khovd Hotel (x23063; s/d T3000/6000, half-lux s/d A 1.2m x 2m carpet will cost around US$70. hotel (per person T1000), but you’ll need to wait by ХАР УС НУУР
T6000/12,000, lux s/d T8000/16,000) Scruffy, commu-
Some customers claim that having products the petrol station should the rare vehicle pass About 40km to the east of Khovd city is Khar
nist-era hotel near the Drama Theatre. shipped abroad can be unreliable – if you through. Cars do pass this way, but they are Us Nuur (Dark Water Lake), the second-
Buyant Hotel (x23860; dm T5000, half-lux T15,000- are buying, take the carpet with you. usually too full to take an extra passenger. largest freshwater lake (15,800 sq km) in
18,000, lux T25,000) Though nothing extravagant, Mongolia – but with an average depth of only
this is the best hotel in town. The lux room Getting There & Away MINIVAN & JEEP 4m. Khovd Gol flows into this lake, creating a
has a huge living room with fridge and TV AIR Furgons wait at the market. You should giant marsh delta. Khar Us Nuur is the perfect
plus hot-water shower. The half-lux rooms At least one plane a day travels the be able to get a ride somewhere within a habitat for wild ducks, geese, wood grouse,
include toilet and cold-water shower. If you Khovd–Ulaanbaatar route. MIAT flies for day, or maybe two. Approximate fares are partridges and seagulls, including rare relict
are considering a dorm, bear in mind that the US$161/282 one way/return, AeroMongolia T20,000 to Altai (15 hours, 424km), T35,000 gulls and herring gulls – and by late sum-
bathroom is two floors below. flies for US$183/324 and EZ Nis flies for to Bayankhongor (28 hours, 795km) and mer a billion or two of everyone’s friend, the
Myangan Ugalzit Hotel (x22086; s/d T8000/16,000, US$201/362. T50,000 to Ulaanbaatar (50 hours, 1425km). common mosquito. The best time to see the
half-lux s/d T10,000/20,000, lux T18,000/36,000) A gov- Khovd to Ulaanbaatar flights (and vice At least one Furgon per day will travel to birdlife is in May and late August.
ernment-run hotel on the edge of town. It’s versa) are popular, so it is vital to buy tickets Ulaanbaatar. As usual, these vans leave around As at Uvs Nuur (p239), bird-watchers may
well maintained and has spacious rooms but well in advance. If you have a return ticket four to eight hours after the suggested depar- be a little disappointed: the lake is huge, dif-
it can be hard to get in here unless you’ve from Ulaanbaatar, reconfirm it as soon as ture time; ask the driver to pick you up at your ficult to reach because of the marshes and
booked ahead. you arrive. The EZ Nis office (x22880) is in the hotel when he is ready. Bear in mind that the locals know very little, if anything, about the
same building as XAC Bank. AeroMongolia ride to Ulaanbaatar is 45 to 50 nonstop hours birdlife. The best idea would be to go with one
Eating (x 9982 1265) is at the Mongol Shuudan of driving, during which time you’ll be allot- of the national park workers and head for the
Naran Restaurant (x9143 5555; meals T1300-1900; Bank. MIAT (x9943 4130, 22414) can be found ted less than half a seat (think 23 people in a delta where the Khovd Gol enters the lake.
h9am-10pm) Somewhat upscale atmosphere at the airport. The airport is 5km south of 10-seat van) and, unlike the northern road, You’ll need several litres of drinking water
for a basic Mongolian eatery. The fish looks the city. there is almost nothing to see on the southern and mosquito repellent.
like a progressive menu item although they At the time of research Air China had route. Flying back to Ulaanbaatar saves both The easiest place to see the lake is from
never seem to have it. plans to start a route between Khovd and time and sanity. the main Khovd–Altai road at the southern
Tsomorlig Kafé (x9943 9765; meals T1500-2000; Urumqi in Xinjiang (China). If the route There’s less traffic headed to Ölgii tip of the lake, where a metal watchtower (GPS:
h 9am-9pm) Sizzling platters of meat are opens up you’ll need to have a valid Chinese (T11,000, six to seven hours, 238km) and less N 47°50.541’, E 092°01.541’) has been set up to view
served in this hole-in-the-wall café on the visa to make the journey. still to Ulaangom (T12,000, seven to eight the nearby reed islands.
WESTERN MONGOLIA 236 K H O V D • • Ts e n k h e r i i n Ag u i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U V S • • U l a a n g o m 237

WESTERN MONGOLIA
STEPPE ASIDE TUVANS, THERE’S A NEW VOICE IN TOWN UVS УВС the animals protected. Part of the Man and the Biosphere
Unesco programme, and the Ramsar Wetland Convention.
Thanks to good PR in Tuva, everyone has heard of the Tuvan throat singers. Less known is that pop 81,200 / area 69,000 sq km
Mongolia also has its own contingent of throat singers who you’ll surely hear at concerts staged After travelling around this aimag for a while ULAANGOM УЛААНГОМ
in Ulaanbaatar. you may start to wonder why they named it x01452 / pop 22,900 / elev 939m
Known as khöömii, throat singing allows the human voice to produce a whole harmonic range Uvs (Grass) as most of the region is classified Ulaangom (Red Sand) is a charmless city
from deep in the larynx, throat, stomach and palate, and has the remarkable effect of producing as high desert. Really the main feature of this stuck in the middle of the desert. Still, it’s
two notes and melodies simultaneously: one a low growl, the other an ethereal whistling. diverse aimag is its lakes, which come in all not a bad place to hang around while plan-
Throat singing is traditionally centred on western Mongolia (particularly Chandmani in Khovd) shapes, sizes and levels of salinity. The big- ning a trip around western Mongolia: it has
and the neighbouring republic of Tuva (Russia). It’s rare to hear a concert out in the countryside, gest, Uvs Nuur, is more like an inland sea, a bustling market, well-stocked shops and a
but if you prod some locals someone might strike up a tune. while smaller lakes such as Khökh Nuur make worthwhile museum.
Several recordings of throat singing are available abroad, though most are from Tuva. Some excellent hiking destinations. Together the
singers, including the well-known Aldyn Dashka, have blended throat singing with rock‘n’roll lakes and the surrounding deserts make up Information
beats. Mongolian singer Dangaa Khosbayar is backed by a range of instruments including the the Ikh Nuuruudin Khotgor: a 39,000-sq-km Border Patrol office (Khiliin Tserenk Alban) Opposite
sitar and didgeridoo. Most khöömii singers are male although a few female singers are breaking Great Lakes Depression that includes bits of the market, ask about a border permit here.
onto the scene; look for recordings by Alimaa or Undarmaa. neighbouring Khovd and Zavkhan aimags. Eco Ger (Airport) This small tourist-information ger has
To check out some throat singing try the CDs Choomej: Throat Singing From the Center of Asia However, the main attraction of Uvs has details on good horse trekking and hiking areas. It opens
(Tuvinian Singers) and Deep in the Heart of Tuva: Cowboy Music from the Wild East. to be the twin peaks of Kharkhiraa (4037m) when an aeroplane arrives from Ulaanbaatar.
For more information on throat singing, and to learn how to do it, see www.khoomei.com. and Türgen (3965m) uuls. From these moun- Gurvan Gan Internet Café (x9945 6810; per hr
tains spill permanent glaciers, fast-flowing T400; h9am-11pm) Near the main square.
rivers and verdant plateaus. This is also one Internet café (x23370; per hr T500;h8am-5pm
The outflow from Khar Us Nuur goes Accommodation in the area includes Mon-Sat) At the Telecom office.
of Mongolia’s most seismically active regions.
into a short river called Chono Khairkhan, Jargalant Orgil (x 9943 8800; tseveenravdand@ Mongol Shuudan Bank (x24022; Marshal Tsedenbal
In 1905 an earthquake measuring greater than
which flows into another freshwater lake, yahoo.com; per person T15,000), a new ger camp Gudamj; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Does cash
eight on the Richter scale ripped through the
Khar Nuur (Black Lake), home to some migra- between Khar Us Nuur and Jargalant advances on Visa.
province and left a distinct fault line in the
tory pelicans. See this area while you can: Khairkhan Uul. Strictly Protected Areas office (x22271; delhii
eastern part of the aimag.
construction of a hydropower dam on the [email protected]; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Uvs aimag was originally named Dorvod
Chono Khairkhan is nearly complete. When TSENKHERIIN AGUI after the main ethnic group that inhabited Located at the western end of the main road, this office
finished, the dam will inundate canyons and ЦЭНХЭРИЙН АГУЙ the area. The Dorvod people, who still rep- provides information on, and permits to, the protected
huge tracts of grassland, and almost certainly The Tsenkheriin Agui (GPS: N 47°20.828’, E 091°57.225’) areas in the aimag.
resent just under half of the population of
kill off rare aquatic life. is located in an attractive setting next to a Telecom office (x107; h24hr) The post office is
Uvs, speak their own dialect. Other minor-
The southern end of Khar Nuur flows into stream in Mankhan sum, 100km southeast ity ethnic groups include the Bayad, Khoton also here.
Dörgön Nuur, which is a large alkaline lake good of Khovd city. Until just a few years ago and Khalkh. XAC Bank (h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat-Sun)
for swimming. The eastern side of Dörgön the walls of these caves were strewn with Changes money and gives cash advances on Visa and
Nuur is an area of bone-dry desert and exten- dozens of 15,000-year-old wall paintings. National Parks MasterCard.
sive sand dunes. West of the lake, on the road Vandals have wrecked all but a couple of The Great Lakes Depression is a globally Zoos Bank (x23899; h8am-5pm) Next door to
to Chandmani, you have a better-than-average the drawings and only an experienced local important wetland area for migratory birds XAC Bank. Changes money and gives cash advances on
chance of spotting saiga antelopes. could find the best examples. The museum and is a Unesco World Biosphere Reserve. MasterCard.
Just to the south, and between the Khar in Khovd city (see p232) has a re-creation Many other parks have been established in
and Khar Us lakes, are the twin peaks of of how the cave paintings looked before the aimag and, together with parks in Russia, Sights
Jargalant Khairkhan Uul (3796m) and Yargaitin their senseless destruction. Tuva, China and Kazakhstan, form a Central The comprehensive Aimag Museum (x24720;
Ekh Uul (3464m). You can see the massif as you Asian arc of protected areas. admission T2000; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) has the usual
drive to Ölgii from Altai in Gov-Altai aimag. MÖNKH KHAIRKHAN NATIONAL PARK Khan Khökhii National Park (220,550 hectares) An stuff plus a section on the 16th-century Oirad
With the help of a guide you’ll find numerous МӨНХ ХАЙРХАН УУЛ important ecological indicator and home to musk deer, elk, leader Amarsanaa (the chain-mail jacket is
springs in these mountains. The canyons also At 4362m, Mönkh Khairkhan Uul is the sec- red deer and wolf. supposedly his). There’s a newly built wing
hide a 22m high waterfall. ond-highest mountain in Mongolia. You can Khyargas Nuur National Park (332,800 hectares) An dedicated solely to the reign of one-time dicta-
If you are driving in a loop through the walk up the peak if you approach from the area of springs and rocky outcrops that harbours abundant tor Yu Tsedenbal (who was born in Uvs), fea-
park, the village of Chandmani makes a logical northern side. There is plenty of snow and waterfowl. turing photos of the man with other commie
place to camp. There are good camp sites, ice on top, so you’ll need crampons, an ice Tes River Reserve (712,545 hectares) The newest con- leaders like Fidel Castro and Ho Chi Minh.
a few shops and, for once, no mosquitoes. axe and rope, but the climb is not techni- servation area in Uvs protects waterfowl, beaver and fish. Dechinravjaalin Khiid, on the eastern end of
Chandmani is also renowned as a centre for cally difficult. A jeep trail runs to the base Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area (712,545 hectares) town near the airport, was originally founded
khöömii singers and Westerners sometimes from Mankhan. The peak is known locally as Consists of four separate areas: Uvs Nuur, Türgen Uul, on this spot in 1738. It contained seven tem-
come here for informal study from the old Tavan Khumit. This is also Khovd’s newest Tsagaan Shuvuut Uul and Altan Els. Contains everything ples and 2000 monks; an artist’s rendition
masters. Well-known local singers include national park and visitors are charged the from desert sand dunes to snowfields, marsh to mountain hangs inside the office of the head monk. The
Tserendavaa, Tsenee and Davaajav. standard T3000. forest. Snow leopard, wolf, fox, deer and ibex are among place was pulverised in 1937 thanks to Stalin,
WESTERN MONGOLIA 238 U V S • • U l a a n g o m Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com U V S • • U v s N u u r 239

WESTERN MONGOLIA
Ikh Mongol (x9983 9292; Marshal Tsedenbal Gudamj available, consider riding a UB-bound mini-
ULAANGOM 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
van as far as Tariat (T25,000, 26 hours, 700km)
29; meals 1500-2500; h8am-10pm) Reputedly the
A B C D best place in town, Ikh Mongol has a diverse and then attempt to bum a lift to Mörön from
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING menu with Mongolian and Chinese dishes. other backpackers at Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur.
Border Patrol Office.........................1 C2 Aimag Museum................................8 B2 Chinggis Pub & Restaurant.............15 B2 Seating is in big red booths and the walls are You’ll need to bargain hard for any vehicle
Eco Ger............................................2 D3 Dechinravjaalin Khiid........................9 C3 Ikh Mongol.....................................16 B2
1 Gurvan Gan Internet Café................3 C2 Givaan Statue.................................10 B3 designed like the interior of a ger. It’s owned as local drivers tend to overcharge foreigners.
Internet Café..................................(see 6)
Mongol Shuudan Bank.....................4 B2
Tsedenbal Statue............................11 B2 SHOPPING
Market...........................................17 C2
by a local kingpin who runs a similar restau- A recommended local driver with fair prices
Post Office.....................................(see 6) SLEEPING rant in Khovd city. is Erdenejav (x9945 5799), who speaks

ὈὈ
Strictly Protected Area Office...........5 A2
Telecom Office.................................6 B2
Bayalag Od Hotel...........................12 B3
Tsogtsolbor Hotel...........................13 B3
TRANSPORT
AeroMongolia Office.....................(see 4) Qinggis Pub & Restaurant (x9945 2688; Marshal no English.
Zoos Bank........................................7 B3 Ulaangom Hotel.............................14 C3 EZ Nis Office..................................18 B3 Tsedenbal Gudamj 27; meals T2000-3000) A couple of The Khovd city–Ulaangom road sometimes
Jeep/Truck Station.........................19 C2
Minivan Station..............................20 C2 doors down from Ikh Mongol is the Qinggis suffers from flooded rivers and collapsed
5
To Üüreg Nuur (80km); To Tavan Od
(700m)
Petrol Station.................................21 C2 Pub, another restaurant that goes beyond gou- bridges after heavy rain.
Ölgii (301km)
19 lash (try one of their soups or a steak). Guns
21 17
and daggers mounted on the wall add a touch UVS NUUR УВС НУУР

ὈὈ
2
1
20 of the Wild West. Uvs Nuur is a gigantic inland sea in the mid-
8
Theatre
dle of the desert. The lake’s surface occupies
Police 6 Government Getting There & Away 3423 sq km, making it Mongolia’s largest
Park Station House
16
11 3
AIR lake, though it’s very shallow at an average
4
15 Square EZ Nis and AeroMongolia share the depth of 12m. (Still, legend has it that the lake
13 Hospital Ulaanbaatar–Ulaangom route; check the is bottomless.)
7 10 schedules to find out when each flies. EZ Nis Uvs Nuur is five times saltier than the ocean
Ma
rc (x25252, 9904 9939) charges US$199/359 one way/ and devoid of edible fish. It has no outlet, so
18 14 hal T
12
sede
nb
return. Its office is near the Bayalag Od Hotel. a lot of the shoreline is quasi-wetland. This
al To Kharkhiraa Gol (1km);
3 Gu
da
Mörön (680km) AeroMongolia (x9945 9551) charges US$144/252 environment, plus the clouds of mosquitoes,
mj
9 one way/return and its office is in the Mongol make Uvs Nuur tourist unfriendly. With the
2
Shuudan Bank building. The airport is a dirt exception of serious ornithologists, most visi-
To Khovd (238km)
Airport field just 1km from the town centre. tors will better appreciate the prettier, smaller
and more accessible freshwater Üüreg Nuur.
HITCHING Ornithologists have documented more than
and its current incarnation consists of a con- lux s/d T16,000/22,000) The lux rooms here come Getting to and from Ulaangom is fairly diffi- 200 bird species around Uvs Nuur, including
crete ger and about 20 welcoming monks. with TV and twin beds while the ordinary cult and you’ll need time and patience on your crane, spoonbill, goose and eagle, as well as
The bronze statue in front of Government rooms have king-size beds but no TV. As side. For points east most vehicles head to and gulls that fly thousands of kilometres from
House is of Yumjaagiin Tsedenbal, who ruled usual, plumbing is haphazard at best. The from Tosontsengel (Zavkhan), the halfway the southern coast of China to spend a brief
Mongolia for about 40 years until 1983, and hotel does have a swanky little bar and night- point to Ulaanbaatar. Very few vehicles go to summer in Mongolia.
was born near Ulaangom. Opposite the town club that draws some late night crowds. or from Mörön (Khövsgöl). Only the most determined birdwatch-
square, another statue honours Givaan, a local Tavan Od (x23409, 9945 9418; d/q/lux T15,000/ An occasional vehicle travels to or from ers spend much time around the lake. Uvs
hero who was killed in 1948 during clashes 20,000/25,000) This 10-room hotel on the north Ölgii (Bayan–Ölgii). From Ulaangom to Khovd Nuur is huge and public transport around it
with Chinese troops. edge of town offers basic but clean rooms at city, hitching is even harder. In Ulaangom, ask nonexistent; trails often turn into marsh and
reasonable rates. It has a shop, hot water and around the modern and busy petrol station sand; only park officials know anything about
Sleeping sauna. It also has a restaurant but the meat near the market, and at the market itself. the birdlife; and you may not be there at the
CAMPING they served us tasted like the cow had died right time anyway. Real enthusiasts should
The only place to camp nearby is along of old age. JEEP & MINIVAN venture to the northeastern delta around Tes.
Gumbukh Gol, which you cross as you come Bayalag Od Hotel (x22445, 9984 3261; s/d US$10/20, A few public share jeeps leave for Ölgii Note that Tes is a border area and you’ll need
from Ölgii. Walk about 300m northwest of the lux US$25-35) Located in an unexciting brick (T10,000, 10 hours, 300km) and Khovd a border permit from the border office in
town square to find a spot. If you have your heap, lux rooms have their own bathroom (T12,000, seven to eight hours, 238km) Ulaangom (see p237). Contact the Uvs Nuur
own vehicle, camping is far better along the with TV. The management informs us that when full. Ask around the jeep/truck station Strictly Protected Areas office in Ulaangom
Kharkhiraa Gol or anywhere south of the city hot water is available on Monday, Tuesday by the market. (see p237) for a list of visiting species and
on the road to Khovd. and Saturday – but even those days are a bit Share minivans to Ulaanbaatar (via ideas on how to spot them.
of a gamble. Tosontsengel and Tsetserleg; T50,000, Forget about hitching to the lake, you’d
HOTELS about 48 hours, 1336km) wait by the road almost certainly be dumped in a marshy
Ulaangom Hotel (x9969 5251; per person T10,000) This Eating near the market (a different place from the wasteland. The only way to come to grips
centrally located hotel has a few rooms that For some really cheap khuushuur (mutton jeep/truck stand). with this beast of a lake is in your own hired
share a bathroom, but there is no shower. pancakes) or buuz (steamed dumplings), if It’s very difficult to find a van going to vehicle. Because of the marshes, you’ll need
Tsogtsolbor Hotel (x24614; Marshal Tsedenbal you’re not fussy about hygiene, try the train- Mörön (T30,000, about 25 hours, 680km); to park 1km or so from the shore and walk
Gudamj 15; s/d T9000/17,000, half-lux s/d T11,000/20,000, car guanz outside the market. ask around the market and, if there is nothing to the lake.
WESTERN MONGOLIA 240 U V S • • B a y a n N u u r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U V S • • K h a r k h i r a a U u l & T ü r g e n U u l 241

WESTERN MONGOLIA
If you are travelling between Ulaangom Develiin Aral Nature Reserve, a 16km stretch
and Mörön you can get decent views from along the fast-flowing Khovd Gol. WHICH KHARKHIRAA?
the road (about 1km from the shore) and Near Ulaangom there are several areas known as Kharkhiraa. The main places of interest for
maybe persuade your driver to veer off for Üüreg Nuur Үүрэг Нуур travellers are Kharkhiraa Gol (river) and Kharkhiraa Uul (mountain), both described below. A
a closer look. Large and beautiful Üüreg Nuur (GPS: N 50°05.236’, third Kharkhiraa is a run-down Soviet-era holiday resort, located in a valley called, you guessed
E 091°04.587’), at an elevation of 1425m, is sur- it, Kharkhiraa. The valley is gorgeous but very steep, which makes for difficult hiking. The holiday
BAYAN NUUR БАЯН НУУР rounded by stunning 3000m-plus peaks, in- resort does a lot to ruin the charm of the area and the local caretaker will attempt to charge you
Close to Uvs Nuur and certainly more wel- cluding Tsagaan Shuvuut Uul (3496m), which T5000 per person for camping. If you are heading into the mountains for a multi-day adventure,
coming, Bayan Nuur is a pretty lake amid are part of the Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected the best access remains the Kharkhiraa Gol. There is plenty of scope for confusion so make sure
sand dunes. From Züüngov sum you can Area. The freshwater Üüreg Nuur has some you, your guide and driver know where you are going!
reach its shore in about 20 minutes by car. unidentified minerals and is designated as
These are allegedly the world’s northernmost ‘saltwater’ on some maps, so it’s best to boil
sand dunes. or purify all water from the lake. There is a There are a few shops and a barely function- If you start in Khotgor, it’s possible to drive
freshwater well on the southeastern edge of ing guanz near the petrol pump. into Olon Nuur valley, but it’s pretty boggy
ULAANGOM TO ÖLGII the lake near some deserted buildings. here so stick to existing jeep tracks.
This route between the two aimag capitals The lake is great for swimming (albeit a KHARKHIRAA UUL & TÜRGEN UUL A third route leads from Khökh Nuur (see
can be done in two days by jeep or a pleas- little chilly) and locals say there are plenty of ХАРХИРАА УУЛ & below).
ant four days by bicycle. The journey begins fish. One added attraction is that it’s one of ТҮРГЭН УУЛ
with a 40km tarmac road heading northwest the few bug-free lakes in the region. Camping The twin peaks of Kharkhiraa Uul (4037m) KHÖKH NUUR ХӨХ НУУР
out of Ulaangom. Just past Türgen village is the only sleeping option. and Türgen Uul (3965m), which dominate This pretty alpine lake (elev 6322; GPS: N 49°50.413’,
the road becomes a jeep trail and heads up to One definite attraction of the lake is its the western part of the aimag, are curiously E 91°41.141’) is surrounded by mountains
Ulaan Davaa (Red Pass; elev 1972m), notable for its accessibility: it’s just a little off the main road almost equidistant between Achit, Üüreg and makes a great destination on foot or
enormous ovoo. between Ulaangom and Ölgii. You could hitch and Uvs nuurs. As vital sources of the Uvs horse. The area is inhabited by many ethnic
From the pass there are two routes. One a ride there fairly easily. Nuur, the mountains are part of the Uvs Nuur Dorvod nomads.
heads due south and then southeast to Khökh Tourist facilities in the area are limited to OT Strictly Protected Area. In summer, the area On foot or horse you could get there
Nuur (opposite). The other leads west to Tour Camp (x9913 7772, 9919 1761; www.ottour.com), has some excellent hiking opportunities and from Tarialan; the trip is about 15km up
lovely Üüreg Nuur (right), which is a good located 25km southeast of the lake. The camp the chance to meet Khoton nomads who graze Davaan Uliastai (one valley north of the
area for camping. has a restaurant, modern toilet, hot water and their flocks in the area. Khoton people are Kharkhiraa Gol).
From Üüreg Nuur, cargo trucks take a horse-riding tours. famed throughout Mongolia as shamans. It’s possible for a car to reach the lake in a very
less-rugged (but longer) route (301km) via roundabout manner and only an experienced
Bohmörön village (where you can check out SOUTH OF ÜÜREG NUUR Getting There & Away driver could do it. The road route involves driv-
the 8th-century Turkic balbal). If you end If you are travelling from the lake over Bairam The mountains can be approached from dif- ing up Ulaan Davaa (from Ulaangom), sweep-
up in Bohmörön with no onward transport, Davaa (in the direction of Achit Nuur) look ferent directions. Most hikers walk from east ing around the mountains close to Üüreg Nuur,
it’s possible to walk 9km to Nogoonuur sum out for several ancient graves and balbals (GPS: N to west, from Tarialan to Khotgor. In Tarialan and then heading southeast. The trip is around
in Bayan-Ölgii province, from where you can 50°00.484’, E 091°02.932’) by the road, a few kilo- you can organise pack camels and a guide. 120km; travelling this distance really only makes
get a ride to Ölgii city. The difficulty here is metres south of Üüreg Nuur. The balbals Tarialan is 31km south of Ulaangom. From sense if you are doing the trip as part of a tour
crossing the wide river, the Boh Mörön; you’ll (anthropomorphic statues) represent either here follow the Kharkhiraa Gol into the moun- to Üüreg Nuur and Türgen Uul.
definitely need a guide and pack horse to get local heroes or, possibly, enemies killed in tains; you’ll need to cross the river up to nine Trekkers can continue from the lake for
you across. battle. They date from around the 8th century. times as you go up the valley. Three days and 25km to the glacier-wrapped Türgen Uul. The
Light vehicles (jeeps and vans) bypass Another set of graves and balbals (GPS: N 50°00.220’, 50km later you’ll cross over the Kharkhiraa walk takes about two days through a harsh
Bohmörön and take the short cut (254km) E 091°02.713’) is a further 550m south. The cir- Davaa (2974m), which is accessible on foot landscape of prairie, mountains, glaciers and
over the steep Bairam Davaa (Bairam Pass), past cular piles of stones in the area are kurgans but difficult going for pack camels. rivers, but the topography is wide open so
the desolate coal-mining village of Khotgor. (burial mounds). From the pass you descend into the pretty it’s fairly easy to navigate. There are good
Long-distance cyclists take note: this is On the south side of Bairam Davaa, the Olon Nuur Valley, a marshy area of lakes and camping spots (GPS: N 49°42.485’, E 91°29.525’) along
the only place to pick up supplies between road passes more kurgans and standing stones meadows. Turn north to walk over Yamaat the Türgen Gol, near the northern base of
Ulaangom and Ölgii. Most maps show no (thin, stone pillars used as grave markers). Davaa (2947m) into Yamaat Valley, an area Türgen Uul.
road via Bairam Davaa but, rest assured, you The most impressive, 7km north of Khotgor, inhabited by snow leopards. In summer a ger
can make it with a halfway decent vehicle include two mounds (GPS: N 49°54.910’, E 090°54.527’) camp is sometimes open in this valley. At KHAR US NUUR ХАР УС НУУР
or bike. surrounded by concentric circles and radiat- the end of the valley you can easily reach the To confuse things a little, another freshwater
From Khotgor you could opt for a detour ing spokes. Around the eastern mound you town of Khotgor. lake in the region is called Khar Us Nuur, but
into the Yamaat Valley, which leads to Türgen can see tiny stone circles forming a great arc It’s 50km from Kharkhiraa Davaa to it is sometimes referred to as Ölgii Nuur. You
Uul (opposite). Otherwise, continue south around the mound. There are two carved deer Khotgor, so you should plan six days for the can swim and fish in Ölgii Nuur, and it makes
for 60km to the Achit Nuur bridge. From here stones nearby. entire route. Mongolia Expeditions (p81) and a logical camping spot if travelling between
it’s another 75km to Ölgii. The road passes Khotgor is a rough-and-ready coal-mining Off the Map Tours (p270) both run walking Ulaangom and Khovd city. The lake is 102km
the surprisingly lush riverside forests of the town inhabited by Kazakhs and Mongols. trips through this area. south of Ulaangom.
WESTERN MONGOLIA 242 Z AV K HA N lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Z AV K HA N • • U l i a s t a i 243

WESTERN MONGOLIA
ACHIT NUUR АЧИТ НУУР Adding to the surreal nature of the place do some fine horse treks around the moun- mains of which are visible 3km northeast of
The largest freshwater lake in Uvs, Achit Nuur is the Khetsuu Khad Ger Camp (x11-310 158; 9919 tain. If you are looking for an interesting town) contained up to 3500 soldiers and was
is on the border of Uvs and Bayan-Ölgii aim- 6966; GPS: N 49°01.968’, E 093°28.783’; with/without meals route to western Mongolia, try driving from surrounded by an inevitable Chinese trading
ags, and is an easy detour between Ulaangom US$33/15) set down here in the middle of ab- Uliastai across the desert to Khar Nuur or quarter called Maimaicheng. Chinese farm-
and Ölgii. It offers stunning sunsets and sun- solutely nowhere. It has hot showers, flush Khyargas Nuur. ers tilled the lands along the Bogdiin Gol
rises and good fishing. toilets, a restaurant (meals T5000 to T6000) and, as Russian ethnologist Alexei Pozdneev
The lake is home to flocks of geese, ea- and lonely staff. ULIASTAI УЛИАСТАЙ noted during his 1890 visit, a large contin-
gles and other birdlife. One drawback is the The last 15km of the road to Khetsuu Khad x01462 / pop 19,100 / elev 1760m gent of local women were on hand to ‘serve’
absolute plethora of mosquitoes during the are very sandy and it’s easy to get stuck – don’t Along with Khovd, Uliastai is one of the soldiers.
summer. Some camping spots are better than attempt it without a reliable 4WD vehicle and Mongolia’s oldest cities, founded by the The fort was emptied in 1911 with the
others for mozzies, so look around. Locals confident driver. The drive is easier in July Manchus during their reign in Mongolia. disintegration of the Manchu dynasty, but
claim they are almost bearable by October. and August when rains harden the sand. (The The old garrison is long gone but the town Chinese troops made an attempt to retake
The small Kazakh encampment on the rain also stirs up waves on the lake, which can has retained a pleasant, antiquated feel, with the fort four years later, only to be booted
southeastern edge has a guanz. make for spectacular viewing.) a tree-lined main street and rows of one- out once and for all in March 1921, follow-
A bridge (GPS: N 49°25.446’, E 90°39.677’) just south A national park fee of T3000 applies around storey shops and restaurants. Rivers flow- ing the taking of Urga (Ulaanbaatar) by
of the lake allows for relatively steady traffic the lake, though you’d be lucky (or unlucky) ing nearby and a lush valley surrounded by White Russian forces. One of the few traces
between Ulaangom and Ölgii. You can hitch to find a ranger to pay it to. mountains complete the picture, making this left visible of the Manchu era is the shackles
a ride or charter a jeep to the lake from either South of Khyargas Nuur but still in the an enjoyable place to stay while you consider and torture devices used by the Manchus,
city without too much trouble. national park is the freshwater lake Airag Nuur the direction of your next plunge. now on display in the History Museum.
(GPS: N 48°57.126’, E 093°22.011’), at the end of the
KHYARGAS NUUR NATIONAL PARK mighty Zavkhan Gol. Despite the name, the History Orientation

ὈὈὈ
ХЯРГАС НУУР lake is not full of fermented mare milk, but it Manchurian generals established a military The town is divided into two main districts:
Khyargas Nuur, a salt lake amid desert and does have about 10 breeding pairs of migra- garrison here in 1733 to keep one eye on the west of the Chigistei Gol is the central area
scrub grass, provides an attractive summer tory Dalmatian pelican. There were about 400 Khalkh Mongols to the east and the other on with hotels, restaurants and other life-sup-
home for birds but sees little tourist traffic. pelican in the 1960s, but the numbers are the unruly Oirad Mongols who lived west of port systems; across the bridge on the east-
Some travellers visit the lake when travelling tragically decreasing because poachers kill the Khangai mountains. The fortress (the re- ern bank is the industrial area, which you are
between Uvs and Zavkhan aimags. them for their beaks, which are used to make

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
On the northwestern side of Khyargas a traditional implement for cleaning horses,
called a khusuur (currycomb), which you may
ULIASTAI 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
Nuur, there is a cold spring (GPS: N 49°20.153’, E
093°09.355’) that dribbles out of the mountain – see in use at the Naadam Festival. A B C D
locals say drinking some has health benefits. INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING

ZAVKHAN ЗАВХАН
Mongol Shuudan Bank.....................1 B2 History Museum...............................4 B2 Bayanzurkh Hotel............................ 8 C3
Near the spring is Khar Temis (x9945 6796; r T5000, Post Internet Café..........................(see 3) Javkhlant Tolgoi...............................5 C2 Uliastai Hotel....................................9 A2
Post Office.....................................(see 3) Museum of Famous People............(see 4) Uran Baigal Hotel...........................10 B2
half-lux T10,000), an old Soviet holiday camp that 1

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Strictly Protected Areas Office..........2 B3 Ochipurev Tsogt Khiid......................6 B2
has seen some renovations. It has lake views pop 79,000 / area 82,000 sq km Telecom Internet Café....................(see 3) Tögs Buyant Javkhlant Khiid.............7 C2 EATING
Telecom Office................................3 A2 Chigistei Restaurant .......................11 B3
and a sandy beach. Zavkhan aimag occupies a transitional zone Market...........................................12 B3
The main attraction of the lake, and pos- between the well-watered Khangai mountain Naran Café.....................................13 B2
Tesiin Gol Supermarket..................14 C3
sibly the weirdest sight in western Mongolia, range of central Mongolia and the harsh Great
is Khetsuu Khad, an enormous rock sticking out Lakes Depression of western Mongolia. In To Airport Steep
To Tosontsengel
(181km)
(35km);
of the water that attracts migratory cormorant between the two regions, Zavkhan has its Hill To Manchu Military
Garrison (1km)
birds. The birds arrive in April and hatch their own micro-climates and varied terrain that 3 Government
House
young in large nests built on the rock. When ranges from snowy peaks to steppe to lakes 5 7

the chicks hatch, their squawking is constant surrounded by sand dunes. 2 Square 10
and deafening. The aura created by the white The aimag is in an awkward location and 9 17 1 Police
Station DRINKING
cliffs and shrill birds makes you feel as if very few travellers are likely to pass through Döl Café...........................................15 B3

ol
4 16

i G
13 6
you’ve arrived at the ocean. By October the much or any of Zavkhan. This is a pity be-

e
ENTERTAINMENT

gist
cormorants are off again, migrating back to cause the scenery is some of the most dramatic Casablanca.......................................16 B2

Chi
Hospital
their breeding grounds in southern China. and varied in the country; one minute you 11 12
14 TRANSPORT
The water around the rock is a bit slimy are travelling through lush valleys and hills, 2 15 EZ Nis Office....................................17 A2

and the beach is rocky, so the swimming isn’t and then a few kilometres further you are in a Jeep
so great here. This habitat, however, ideal for desert reminiscent of Lawrence of Arabia. Station
Petrol
fish and you’ll spot plenty swimming idly in The highlight of the aimag is Otgon 3 Station

the shallow waters. There are no laws against Tenger Uul, a 4021m hulk at the western
fishing although given the sensitivity of this edge of the Khangai. The mountain is con- 8
To Tigsh Hotel &
unique ecosystem, it’s probably best to leave sidered holy and a new law prohibits any- To Altai (195km)
Bathhouse (300m);
Otgon Tenger Uul (60km)
them alone, tempting though they may be. one from climbing it, although you could
WESTERN MONGOLIA 244 Z AV K HA N • • U l i a s t a i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com Z AV K HA N • • Z a g a s t a i n D a v a a 245

WESTERN MONGOLIA
unlikely to visit. The airport is 35km west of and argali sheep. The views from the top are (egg), chinjuurtei (peppers) or moogtei (mush- to 11 hours, 389km), but very little traffic
Uliastai, close to the town of Aldarkhaan. good. To the northeast, about 3km away, you rooms). Vegetarians can order a plate of salads heads south to Altai. Almost all traffic leaves
can barely make out the remains of the old and rice (but the potato salad will invariably from the jeep station between the river and
Information Manchu military garrison (GPS: N 47°44.922’, E 96°52.198’). come with bits of ham). After 9pm it turns the market. In the last week of August it is
Mongol Shuudan Bank (x23686) Gives cash It is possible to walk to the garrison in about 30 into a very dark disco. easy to get a ride to Khovd city (T30,000, 18
advances on Visa and MasterCard. minutes, though there’s not much to see and it is Döl Café (x9946 9174; meals T1500-2000; hnoon- hours, 480km) when vans fill up with students
Post Internet Café (x9908 7824; per hr T600; generally regarded by locals as a waste dump. 11.30pm Mon-Sat) One of the more progressive headed back to university.
h10am-9pm) In the entry to the post office. places in town, the Döl serves meals during The road between Uliastai and Tosontsengel
Strictly Protected Areas office (x22361, 9946 Courses the day and is a popular evening haunt for is unpaved, but pretty reasonable and easy
9477; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm) This office contains a small Mr. Enkhjargal is a professional music teacher dancing and drinking. to follow. The turn-off to Tosontsengel
information room with brochures and pictures, though no at the local music college and can give lessons Chigistei Restaurant (x9946 0506; meals T2000; is 148km north of Uliastai and 33km west
English is spoken. The staff can also sell you entry tickets to in khöömii (throat singing). He can be reached h9am-midnight) Large restaurant with a retro- of Tosontsengel.
Otgon Tenger Strictly Protected Area. through the Chigistei restaurant. Soviet décor and Mongolian meals. The
Telecom Internet Café (x21120; per hr T600; owner, Tuya, plans to expand the menu to in- ZAGASTAIN DAVAA
h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11-5pm Sat-Sun) In the Telecom Sleeping clude cheeseburgers(!) and Korean dishes, so ЗАГАСТАЙН ДАВАА
office. CAMPING it’s worth checking out. Tuya speaks English Forty-eight kilometres northeast of Uliastai
Telecom office (x24117; h24hr) The post office is Along the lush valley that hugs the Chigistei and can help travellers find guides and horses on the Uliastai–Tosontsengel road is a spec-
also located here (but has a separate entrance). Gol for 15km from town, and parallel to the for countryside trips. tacular mountain pass with the unusual
Tigsh Bathhouse (x9972 3976; shower T800) Located northern road to Tosontsengel, there are some Self-caterers can explore the busy market or name of Zagastain Davaa (Fish Pass; GPS: N 48°04.157’,
behind the Tigsh Hotel. Opening times are sporadic so call gorgeous (though a little busy) camping spots. try the Tesiin Gol Supermarket (h10am-6pm) near E 097°09.900’). At the top, there are fine views
ahead. Just get off the bus, truck or jeep at somewhere the roundabout. and a large ovoo. The weather is infamously
Xac Bank (x21315; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am- you like. changeable up here, with the possibility of
4pm Sat) Changes dollars and gives cash advances on Entertainment snow, rain or wind at anytime. There is decent
MasterCard. APARTMENT Casablanca (x9946 7039; h10am-11.30pm) Every- camping and hiking on the stretch of road
Tuya, the owner of the Chigistei Restaurant, one from kids to teens to grannies turns up between the pass and Uliastai. Look out for
Sights rents out a four-bed apartment for T5000 per here in the evenings to stretch their vocal the two balbals and burial mounds (GPS: N 47°56.396’,
MUSEUMS person per night. cords along with the karaoke machine. E 097°00.824’) 20km south of the pass.
The History Museum (x23097; admission T2000;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri), on the main street, contains HOTELS Getting There & Away OTGON TENGER UUL STRICTLY
a mammoth bone, some fine religious art and Tigsh Hotel (x9546 9208; ger/dm T5000/6000, half-lux s/d AIR PROTECTED AREA
a tsam mask, worn during lama dances, made T14,000/28,000) A clean hotel with a handful of AeroMongolia (x 9983 4347) flies between ОТГОН ТЭНГЭР УУЛ
from coral. There is also a fine collection of bright rooms. There is a large yard behind the Ulaanbaatar and Uliastai twice a week for One of Mongolia’s most sacred mountains,
photographs taken of Uliastai in the early hotel with trees, a bathhouse and an elaborate US$158/280 one way/return. The airport is Otgon Tenger Uul (3905m) is the spiritual
20th century. Next door, the Museum of Famous three-bed ger. The disinterested management about 35km west of Uliastai; a taxi will cost abode of the gods and an important place of
People (h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) features well-known might allow you to do your laundry in the about T9000. pilgrimage for many Mongolians. The moun-
Zavkhanites, including Mongolia’s first two bathhouse. It’s a 15-minute walk from the tain, located about 60km east of Uliastai, is
democratically elected presidents, P Ochirbat centre of town in a white building labelled HITCHING the highest peak in the Khangai Nuruu and is
and N Bagabandi. Admission is free if you al- Зочид Вудал (Hotel). The road between Uliastai and Tosontsengel now part of the 95,510-hectare Otgon Tenger
ready bought a ticket to the History Museum. Bayanzurkh Hotel (x9946 9198, 9920 3988; per is fairly busy, so hitching shouldn’t be diffi- Strictly Protected Area. Normal park fees of
person T11,000) Overpriced apartment-hotel cult, but because it rains a fair bit in summer, T3000 per person apply; pay just past the chil-
TÖGS BUYANT JAVKHLANT KHIID with three rooms and a kitchen but no hot hanging around for a lift may not be pleas- dren’s camp, about 45km from Uliastai.
ТӨГС БУЯНТ ЖАВХЛАНТ ХИЙД shower. It’s a 10-minute walk southeast of ant. Hitching to anywhere else from Uliastai The mountain’s sanctity means that climb-
This small, well-appointed monastery has the town centre. is really hard – Zavkhan’s isolated location ing is prohibited – attempting to do so will
around 20 monks. You are allowed to watch Uran Baigal Hotel (x9914 0603; dm T8000, half-lux ensures that few vehicles come this way. incur the wrath of park rangers and the au-
their ceremonies, which start at about 10am s/d 10,000/20,000) This hotel has reasonable rooms thorities in Uliastai. You’ll need to be content
every day. The monastery is on the eastern but none with an attached toilet. It is located MINIVAN & JEEP with viewing Otgon Tenger from Dayan Uul,
side of Javkhlant Tolgoi. A second temple, north of the police station and has a decent Several minivans and jeeps leave each day a 30-minute drive past the children’s camp
Ochirpurev Tsogt Khiid, a Nyingmapa monas- restaurant on the 1st floor. for Ulaanbaatar (T30,000, 26 hours, 984km) (passing pretty Tsagaannuur en route), where
tery with five lamas, is near the museums and Uliastai Hotel (x9191 9198) Large hotel under via Tosontsengel (T10,000, five to six hours, you’ll also get views of lovely Khökh Nuur (GPS: N
signposted in English. renovation at the time of research. 181km) Tariat (for Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur; 47°37.447’, E 97°20.546’). Taxi drivers will take you
T14,000, 10 to 11 hours, 399km) and Tsetserleg to Dayan Uul for petrol money plus T20,000.
JAVKHLANT TOLGOI ЖАВХЛАНТ ТОЛГОЙ Eating & Drinking (T18,000, 15 hours, 531km). You may need to A second route into the area is via the town
This hilltop near the river and just to the north Naran Café (x9967 5485, 9984 2721; meals T1500-2000; bargain for these prices. of Otgon, 138km southeast of Uliastai, where a
of the main street features a pavilion, nine stu- h10am-midnight) The Naran serves up some If you are lucky you might find a minivan decent road heads up the Buyant Gol towards
pas and the concrete likenesses of an elk, ibex decent plates of meat with either ondogtei or jeep headed north to Mörön (T15,000, 10 the southeastern flank of the mountain. The
 © Lonely Planet Publications
WESTERN MONGOLIA 246 Z AV K HA N • • T o s o n t s e n g e l lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 247

WESTERN MONGOLIA
route from Uliastai to Otgon is littered with Around 20km northwest of Telmen town is
impressive pre-Mongol-era burial mounds. Telmen Nuur, a large salt lake home to migrating
Otgon Tenger is a great area for horse trek- waterfowl (and swarming flies). It is on the
king and it’s possible to encircle the mountain main road from Tosontsengel to Ulaangom.
in a few days. Tuya at the Chigistei Restaurant You could camp (GPS: N48°48.889’, E97°31.068’) at
(see p245) in Uliastai can put you in touch the eastern end of the lake, but bring your
with horse wranglers. own water.

TOSONTSENGEL ТОСОНЦЭНГЭЛ WESTERN ZAVKHAN

x014546 / elev 1716m If you are travelling overland from Uliastai to
Occupying a pretty valley along the Ider western Mongolia (or vice versa) there are a
Gol, with forested mountains on all sides, few places of interest to stop on the way.
Tosontsengel is Zavkhan’s second-biggest Khar Nuur (Хар Нуур), located in the sum of
city and a transit hub for west-bound traf- Erdenekhairkhan, is a pretty freshwater lake
fic. Tosontsengel once supported a boom- bordering on alpine and desert zones. Most of
ing timber trade and its many wood-fronted the lake is ringed by sand dunes making vehi-
buildings, coupled with unpaved lanes and cle access difficult. West of Khar Nuur, Bayan
wandering horsemen, give it a Wild West Nuur (Баян Нуур) is another difficult-to-reach
atmosphere. Most people only stop long salt lake amid extraordinary scenery. Locals
enough to see the truck-stop area of shops say the fishing is good here. The lake is easiest
and restaurants; if you have some time to to reach after rain, when it becomes easier to
kill, walk 400m southwest to see the deserted drive over the sand dunes. If it hasn’t rained
town square. it’s easy to get stuck and stranded.
The Computeriin Sugalt Medeliin Töv (x1800; A more southerly route from Uliastai trav- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
per hour T1200; h10am-9pm) offers internet access. els due west towards the Ikh Khairkhan Nuruu
It is 250m north of the main square, and 50m (Их Хайрхан), an area of cliffs that provides
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
south of the main road. shelter for ibex and wolf. There are caves only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Rashaant Hotel (x9946 5000; per person T4000), in the area, including Ikh Agui (Big Cave; GPS: N everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
on the eastern side of the square, has musty, 47°57.080’, E 94°59.854’). Ikh Agui has a 150m deep
crumbling rooms and basic facilities. The main tunnel but no stalactites. Make sure to have a
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
road is piled up with truck-stop style cafés and torch (flashlight).
canteens, none better than the other. From Ikh Agui you could travel northwest
Cross-country cyclists will want to stock up to the village of Urgamal (which has a man
on fruit and veggies in Tosontsengel. It has a stone 1km west of town) and then Airag Nuur
great selection of food items, though you may in Uvs Aimag or head due west to Khomyn
need to ask around. Tal (Хомын Тал), the newest rehabilitation
As a transit hub between eastern and west- area for takhi horses. Twelve takhi were sent
ern Mongolia there is plenty of traffic, and here from France in 2004 to start a breed-
hitchhikers should find a ride to Uliastai (five ing program. Khomyn Tal is in the buffer
hours, 181km), Tariat (five hours, 190km), zone of Khar Us Nuur National Park in
Mörön (seven hours, 273km), or Ulaangom Dorvoljin sum.
(15 hours, 533km). If you are coming from
Uliastai or Ulaangom to Mörön you don’t EREEN NUUR ЭРЭЭН НУУР
need to come to Tosontsengel at all; the The beautiful Ereen Nuur is surrounded by
turn off to Mörön is 33km to the west of rolling sand dunes, some of them high enough
the city. to resemble small mountains. It’s technically in
Gov-Altai Aimag but most travellers reach the
TELMEN AREA ТЭЛМЭН lake via Uliastai, from where it’s a six- to seven-
Around 65km west of Tosontsengel is the hour drive. You need to cross the Zavkhan Gol
town of Telmen, which has a well-preserved near the lake if coming from Uliastai, but this
deer stone in the centre of town. A collection is usually not a problem. From Altai it’s an
of burial mounds and deer stones (GPS: N48°30.674’, eight- to 10-hour drive but no river crossing
E97°27.169’) can be seen a further 21km south of is required. The lake can be visited as part of
Telmen, on the main road to Uliastai. a trip to Ikh Agui (see above).
 © Lonely Planet Publications
247

TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB
Directory
bars. Also seriously consider bringing your
CONTENTS own tent and camping – it’s free, and you
really experience what Mongolia has to offer.
Accommodation 247 Payment for accommodation is usually
Activities 250 made upon checkout, but some receptionists
Business Hours 252 will ask for money upfront. Remember that
Children 252 most hotels in the countryside will charge you
Climate Charts 252 a ‘foreigner price’ (which is sometimes double
Customs 253 the local rate).
Dangers & Annoyances 254 If you negotiate a reasonable price with the
Discount Cards 255 management, try to pay immediately and get
Embassies & Consulates 255 a receipt. Asking for a receipt can sometimes
Festivals & Events 255 drop the price dramatically; in some cases
Food 255 the staff will charge you the ‘foreigner price’
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 256 but register you as a Mongolian (ie put the
Holidays 256 ‘Mongolian price’ down on paper and pocket
Insurance 256 the difference).
Internet Access 256 Hotel staff may ask to keep your passport
Legal Matters 256 as ‘security’. This is not a good idea, for three
Maps 257 reasons: staff often do not show up for work
Money 257 (so the person with your passport cannot
Photography & Video 258 be found when you want to depart); once
Post 259 staff have your passport, it leaves you open
Shopping 259 to possibly being asked to pay more for your
Solo Travellers 259 room while a taxi waits for you outside; or
Telephone 260 you may simply forget to pick it up and be
Time 261 300km away before you realise. An expired
Toilets 261 passport, student card or some other ID with
Tourist Information 261 your photo is a great alternative to leaving
Travellers with Disabilities 261 your real passport.
Visas 262 Security should be a consideration. Always
Women Travellers 264 keep your windows and door locked (where
Work 264 possible). Staff may enter your room while
you’re not around; take any valuables with
ACCOMMODATION you or at least keep them locked inside your
Like most things about Mongolia, the accom- luggage and don’t leave cameras and money
modation situation in Ulaanbaatar is vastly lying around your room. Most hotels have a
different from what you will find anywhere safe where valuables can be kept.
outside of the capital city. In Ulaanbaatar,
there is a wide range of accommodation, from Apartments
dorm-style places for US$4 a night to suites Apartment rental is really only an option in
in the Chinggis Khaan Hotel, which cost al- Ulaanbaatar; see p82 for details.
most as much as Mongolia’s gross domestic
product. Outside the capital, hotel options Camping
are limited and generally poor in quality Mongolia is probably the greatest country in
and services. the world for camping. With 1.5 million sq km
One unique option, particularly popular of unfenced and unowned land, spectacular
with organised tours, is to stay in tourist gers, scenery and freshwater lakes and rivers, it is
which are like those used by nomads – except just about perfect. The main problem is a lack
for the hot water, toilets, sheets and karaoke of public transport to great camping sites,
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and sleeping bags bought in UB won’t toes. Most camps have a bar (and sometimes
PRACTICALITIES cut it, especially for camping in the satellite TV and a blasted karaoke machine).
mountains. Bring the best stuff you can There’s often little to differentiate between ger
The weekly English-language newspapers are the Mongol Messenger (www.mongolmessenger
get your hands on for an enjoyable trip. camps; it’s normally the location that adds the
.mn) and the UB Post (http://ubpost.mongolnews.mn). Both have good articles, events listings
Store your food carefully to protect it charm and makes your stay special.
and classified sections.
from creatures of the night. If you plan to stay in a ger camp you may
Major private dailies in Mongolian include Ardiin Erkh (People’s Right), Zunny Medee (Century Don’t pitch your tent under trees (be- want to bring a torch for nocturnal visits to
News), Odriin Sonin (Daily News) and Önöödör (Today). cause of lightning) or on or near river- the toilets, candles to create more ambience
BBC World Service has a nonstop service at 103.1FM. Local stations worth trying include Jag beds (flash floods are not uncommon). than stark electric lights (though not all have
(107FM), Blue Sky (100.9FM) and Radio Ulaanbaatar (102.5FM). Voice of America news pro- electricity), towels (the ones provided are in-
grammes are occasionally broadcast on 106.6FM. For more advice on camping responsibly in variably smaller than a handkerchief), and
Mongolia, see p60. toilet paper (they may run out).
Local TV stations don’t start broadcasting until the afternoon and switch off around 11pm.
Book ahead if possible. Not all ger camps
All the stations have political allies: Channel 25 favours the Democrats, Channel 9 prefers the
MPRP and the others go with whoever is in power.
Gers have a phone so numbers in this book may
For information of ger etiquette, see p33. be for the office in Ulaanbaatar, which will
Electric power is 220V, 50Hz. The sockets are designed to accommodate two round prongs in somehow get the message out that you are
the Russian/European style. TOURIST GER CAMPS headed for the camp.
Mongolia follows the metric system. Tourist ger camps are found all over Mongolia. Except for a handful of ger camps in Terelj
As in the USA, the ground floor is called the 1st floor, as opposed to the UK system, where They may seem touristy and are often surpris- catering to expat skiers, most ger camps are
the next floor above ground level is the 1st floor. ingly expensive but if you are going into the only open from June to mid-September, al-
countryside, a night in a tourist ger is a great though in the Gobi they open a month earlier
way to experience a Western-oriented, ‘tradi- and close a little later.
though there are some accessible sites near tent and look inside at any time – no invita- tional Mongolian nomadic lifestyle’ without In a few touristy places, such as Terelj,
Ulaanbaatar, such as in Gachuurt, Khandgait tion is needed. the discomforts or awkwardness of staying Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur and Khövsgöl Nuur,
and Terelj. Camping is also well worth con- You can often get boiled water, cooked in a private ger. private families often have a guest ger and
sidering given the poor choice of hotels and food, uncooked meat and dairy products A tourist ger camp is a patch of ground take in paying guests. In this case the advice of
the expense of ger camps. from nearby gers in exchange for other goods with several (or sometimes dozens of) tradi- offering gifts as payment does not apply – this
Local people (and even a few curious cows or money, but always leave something and tional gers, with separate buildings for toilets, is a commercial transaction. These families
or horses) may come to investigate your don’t rely on nomads, who may have limited hot showers and a ger-shaped restaurant/bar. are rarely registered with local authorities
camping spot, but you are very unlikely to supplies of food, water and fuel. It is best to Inside each ger, there are usually two to three so they don’t advertise, so you’ll have to ask
encounter any hostility. Your jeep driver will bring a portable petrol stove rather than use beds, an ornate table, four tiny chairs and around (any ger that is set up next to a road
have ideas about good places to stay, other- open fires, which are potentially dangerous, a wood stove that can be used for heating is a good bet).
wise look for somewhere near water or in a use precious wood and may not be possible during the night – ask the staff to make it
pretty valley. If you’re hitching, it is not hard where wood is scarce. for you. The beds are really just smallish TRADITIONAL GERS
to find somewhere to pitch your tent within A few extra tips: cots – if you are built like an NBA basketball If you are particularly fortunate you may be
walking distance of most aimag capitals and Burn dried dung if you are being eaten player or a sumo wrestler, you’ll need to make invited to spend a night or two out on the
towns. You will need to bring your own tent alive by mosquitoes (you may then have special arrangements. steppes in a genuine ger, rather than a tour-
and cooking equipment if you want to camp to decide which is worse: mozzies or Toilets are usually the sit-down types, ist ger camp. This is a wonderful chance to
away from the main towns or avoid the local burning cow shit) and bring strong re- though they may be (clean) pit toilets. experience the ‘real’ Mongolia.
guanz (canteen). pellent with as much DEET as possible. Prices for tourist camps often depend on the If you are invited to stay in a family ger,
To wash yourself, you’ll probably need Other anti-mosquito measures include location. Where there is lots of competition, only in very rare cases will you be expected
to use the local town’s bathhouse. Many are wearing light-coloured clothing, avoid- ie Lake Khövsgöl, Kharkhorin and Terkhiin to pay for this accommodation. Leaving a
listed under the Information entries in this ing perfumes or aftershave, impregnating Tsagaan Nuur, you can find basic camps for gift is strongly recommended. While cash
book. Be aware, though, that the bathhouses clothes and mosquito nets with permeth- under T5000 per night. Better camps or camps payment is usually OK as a gift, it’s far
won’t be like what you’d expect to find in rin (nontoxic insect repellent), making in remote areas may charge US$20 to US$30 better to provide worthwhile gifts for the
Turkey; in Mongolia they are simply for get- sure your tent has an insect screen and (or more) per person per night, including whole family, including the women (who
ting a hosedown. camping away from still water or marshes meals. Activities such as horse or camel rid- look after the guests). Cigarettes, vodka and
Be mindful of your security. If drunks (camping in hills or mountains is always ing will cost extra. A surprising amount of the candy are customary gifts, but with some
spot your tent, you could have a problem. If better than low-lying areas). charge goes to the food bill, so you may be creativity you can offer more useful items.
the owners (and their dog) give you permis- Make sure your tent is waterproof before able to negotiate a discount of 50% to 65% by Constructive presents include sewing kits,
sion, camping near a ger is a good idea for you leave home and always pitch it in bringing your own food. This is pretty reason- lighters, toothbrushes, toothpaste, duct tape,
extra security; otherwise camp at least 300m anticipation of strong winds and rain. able for a clean bed and a hot shower. Mongolian-language books and newspapers,
from other gers. Mongolians have little or Ensure your gear is warm enough for Meals are taken in a separate restaurant and hand-powered flashlights and radios.
no idea of the Western concept of privacy, sub-zero temperatures, or you’ll freeze. ger. With only a few exceptions, expect the Children will enjoy colouring books, pens,
so be prepared for the locals to open your Cheap and flimsy Chinese-made tents usual Mongolian fare of meat, rice and pota- paper and puzzles.
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Your host may offer to cook for you; it is hotels in the countryside you should bring a Birding those who live near water, or in big cities with
polite for you to offer to supply some food, sleeping bag. An inner sheet (the sort used Mongolia is rich in birdlife; for a comprehen- rinks. The soccer stadium in Nairamdal Park
such as biscuits, bread, fruit, salt, rice and inside sleeping bags) is also handy if the sheets sive look see http://birdsmongolia.blogspot (p78) becomes an ice rink in winter but it is
pasta. Pack out any garbage or packaging are dirty. Blankets are always available, but are .com. The best places to get out your binoculars not maintained so the ice gets pretty chewed
leftover from these items. Mongolians love generally dirty or musty. and telephoto lens are the following areas: up. You can rent skates here but the quality
being photographed. If you take pictures of Midrange places are generally good but Ganga Nuur (p182) Migratory swan. is terrible so if you’re serious about this sport,
your host family, remember to take down rather overpriced, charging US$40 to US$60 Khar Us Nuur and Khar Nuur (p235) Goose, wood bring your own equipment. Long-distance
their name and a mail them a copy (for ad- for a double. These rooms will be comfort- grouse and relict gull, and migratory pelican. skating is possible on Lake Khövsgöl. A one-
dress purposes, you’ll need their name, sum able and clean and probably have satellite Khyargas Nuur and Airag Nuur (p242) Migratory week trip with support costs around US$1300,
and aimag). TV. Hot water and heating is standard for cormorant and pelican. contact Nomadic Journeys (p81).
If you stay longer than a night or two (un- most buildings and hotels in Ulaanbaatar, Mongol Daguur Special Protected Area (p174)
less you have been specifically asked to extend and air-conditioning is never needed. The White-napped crane and other waterfowl. Mountain Biking
your visit), you will outstay your welcome staff in midrange and top-end places will Sangiin Dalai Nuur (p197) Mongolian lark, eagle, goose Mongolian roads are made for strong moun-
and abuse Mongolian hospitality, making it speak English. A private room or apartment, and swan. tain bikes and masochistic riders. There are
less likely that others will be welcome in the available through the guesthouses, may be Uvs Nuur (p239) Spoonbill, crane and gull. great biking trails in Terelj, see p113. You’ll also
future. (Never rely on families to take you in; a better idea. find good trails in Altai Tavan Bogd National
always carry a tent as a backup.) The ‘foreigner price’ in this book may be Dune Buggying Park (p229) and all around Khövsgöl aimag
quoted in US dollars (because the exchange For a true outdoor adventure, consider trav- (p57). For more cycling tips see p55.
Guesthouses rate fluctuates), but you should pay in tö- elling across the Gobi in a souped-up dune
Ulaanbaatar now has around 20 guesthouses grög because it is now the law. buggy. Trips are run by Vast Gobi (x9908 2785; Mountaineering
firmly aimed at foreign backpackers. Most are In the countryside, most hotels are gener- www.vastgobi.com), which has several homemade Mongolia also offers spectacular opportuni-
in apartment blocks and have dorm beds for ally empty and falling apart, though facili- two-seat buggies equipped with CB radio and ties for mountain climbing. In the western
around US$4, cheap meals, a laundry service, ties continue to improve and almost every GPS unit. Gobi trips cost US$190 to US$200 aimags, there are dozens of glaciers, and 30
internet connection and travel services. They aimag capital will have one decent new per day while a day trip in Töv aimag is to 40 permanently snow-capped mountains.
are a great place to meet other travellers to place. Even at the best places you can expect US$150 (prices are per vehicle). You must have the necessary experience, be
share transportation costs, but can get pretty dodgy plumbing, broken locks and electrical fully equipped and hire local guides. The best
crowded before and during Naadam (11 and outages. The quality of hotels in the coun- Golf time to climb is July and August.
12 July). tryside is reason enough to take a tent and Although not the first sport that comes to mind While you don’t need permits from the
Outside Ulaanbaatar only Dalanzadgad in go camping. when planning an adventure in Mongolia, golf- Ministry of Nature & Environment unless
the Gobi and Khövsgöl Nuur in Khövsgöl As for service, it is generally poor, except ing is possible. The Chinggis Khaan Country the mountain is in a national park, you may
have accommodation aimed at backpackers. for top-end places in Ulaanbaatar. You’ll Club in Terelj (p111) is the best place to get in want to consult the Mongol Altai Mountaineering
gain little by getting angry – just be busi- a round, although the UB Golf Club (p78) is a Club (x011-455 246; [email protected]; PO Box 49-23,
Hotels nesslike and eventually you’ll get what you cheaper option. The more adventurous could Bayanzürkh, Ulaanbaatar). The club runs specially
Most zochid budal (hotels) in the countryside want. If the staff haven’t seen guests for a try playing natural golf across the steppes. Just designed mountain-climbing trips. The of-
(and budget hotels in Ulaanbaatar) have three long time (very possible in the countryside), pack a five or three iron in your jeep, along with fice is in room 405 of the Physical Training
types of rooms: a lux (deluxe) room, which they might have to search for some sheets, a few dozen golf balls, and golf wherever the Institute, opposite the Indian embassy.
includes a separate sitting room, usually with blankets, even a bed, washstand and water, grass looks best. There are some perfect natural The highest peaks (in ascending order):
TV and private bathroom; a khagas lux (half- and then rouse a cook to light a fire to get fairways in northern Khentii, eastern Zavkhan, Otgon Tenger Uul (3905m; p245) Mongolia’s holiest
deluxe), which is much the same only a lit- some food ready a few hours later. the Chandman-Öndör area in Khövsgöl, and mountain, located in Zavkhan aimag. Its sanctity means
tle smaller but often much cheaper; and an If the hotel has no hot water (most likely in Övörkhangai, south of Khujirt. that climbing is strictly prohibited.
engiin (simple) room, usually with a shared outside UB) or no water at all, it’s worth You may now be wondering if it’s possible Türgen Uul (3965m; p241) One of the most easily
bathroom. Sometimes, niitiin bair (dorm- knowing that most aimag capitals have a to golf all the way across Mongolia. As a mat- climbed with spectacular views; in Uvs.
style) beds are also available. Invariably, public bathhouse. ter of fact, it is. In 2003 and 2004 an eccentric Kharkhiraa Uul (4037m; p241) In Uvs; a great hiking area.
hotel staff will initially show you their deluxe American golfer named Andre golfed from Sutai Uul (4090m; p218) On the border of Gov-Altai and
room (costing a minimum of T17,000) so ACTIVITIES Choibalsan to Khovd city, designating 18 cit- Khovd aimags.
ask to see the standard rooms if you’re on Mongolia is all about getting out into the ies and towns as ‘holes’. Andre shot the round Tsast Uul (4193m; p228) On the border of Bayan-Ölgii and
a budget. Simple rooms cost around T6000 countryside; there are a host of active op- in 12,170 strokes, but lost more than 500 golf Khovd aimags. It’s accessible and the camping here is great.
per person per night. Some rooms may cost tions for you to pursue. For details of over- balls en route. You can read more about his Tsambagarav Uul (4202m; p228) In Khovd; it is rela-
extra if they come with TV; try the channels seas companies that organise activities, see adventure at www.golfmongolia.com. tively easy to climb with crampons and an ice axe.
first as some pick up BBC while others only p270; for companies based in Mongolia see Mönkh Khairkhan Uul (4362m; p236) On the border of
get Russian TV. p80. Some of the most popular activities – Ice Skating Bayan-Ölgii and Khovd aimags. You will need crampons, an
Budget hotels in Ulaanbaatar, lying on such as cycling, hiking, rafting, fishing and, In winter you won’t have to worry about fall- ice axe and ropes.
the fringe areas of the city, mainly cater to of course, horse riding – can be found in ing through the ice, as many lakes and riv- Tavan Bogd (4374m; p231) In Bayan-Ölgii, on the border
Mongolian truck drivers – guesthouses are a our Mongolia Outdoors chapter (p55). ers freeze right down to the bottom. Many of Mongolia, China and Russia. This mountain cluster is full
much better idea. If you plan to stay in budget Additional activities are listed following. Mongolians are keen ice skaters – at least of permanent and crevassed glaciers.
DIRECTORY 252 D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s 253

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Rock Climbing at about 10am and close sometime between CHOIBALSAN 756m (2449ft)
Average
Max/Min
Khentii and Khövsgöl. See p13 for advice
There are excellent opportunities for rock 5pm and 8pm. Many open on Sundays. °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
about the best times to visit.
climbing in Mongolia, although the sport is In the countryside, banks, museums and 30 86 4.0 100

still in its infancy with few established routes. other facilities may close for an hour at lunch, 20 68 3.2 80 CUSTOMS
For now the best place to climb is in Terelj, sometime between noon and 2pm. 10 50 Customs officials want to keep out pornogra-
2.4 60
where routes have been established on a 35m- Outdoor markets are usually open from 0 32 phy, drugs and expensive imports that might
high rock near the Buveit ger camp (p112). 9am to 7pm daily (or sunset in winter), while -10 14
1.6 40 be sold to Mongolians; they want to keep in
Plans have been laid to keep climbing gear indoor markets open from 10am to 8pm. -20 -4
0.8 20 old paintings, statues, fossils, works of art and
at the ger camp, where you can turn up and Museums have reduced hours in winter -30 -22 0 0
mineral samples. Baggage searches of foreign-
climb at a cost of US$40 to US$50 per day. and are normally closed an extra couple of J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D ers exiting Mongolia by air are sometimes
With your own gear it’s US$35. Climbing days a week. rigorous, but are less so at border crossings
routes have also been established at Ikh For details on the opening hours of places Average by train to China or Russia, when most pas-
DALANZADGAD 1465m (4803ft) Max/Min
Gazryn Chuluu (p198) in Dundgov; climbers to eat, see p44. sengers are asleep.
°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
will need to bring their own equipment. 30 86 4.0 100 When you enter Mongolia, you must fill
CHILDREN 20 68 3.2 80
out an English-language customs declaration
Skiing Children can be a great icebreaker and are a 10 50
form to declare any prohibited items, all pre-
Despite the cold temperatures and rugged good avenue for cultural exchange with the 2.4 60
cious stones and all ‘dutiable goods’. You are
0 32
terrain, there are virtually no opportunities local people; however, travelling in Mongolia 1.6 40 also asked to list all monies in your posses-
-10 14
for downhill skiing in Mongolia. Cross- is difficult for even a healthy adult. Long jeep 0.8 20
sion. There is no need to be too accurate: this
country skiing, on the other hand, is limit- rides over nonexistent roads are a sure route to -20 -4
form is rarely checked on your way out. You
-30 -22 0 0
less, as long as you can stand the cold. Ger motion sickness and the endless steppe land- J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D should, nevertheless, keep all receipts when
camps in Terelj (p112) that stay open year- scape may leave your children comatose with you change money at banks, though changing
round make a good base for cross-country boredom. Mongolian food is difficult to stom- Average
money with licensed moneychangers (who
skiing. However, the snow is usually better ach no matter what your age. That said, children ÖLGII 1710m (5607ft) Max/Min
will not issue receipts) is legal.
often like the thrill of camping, for a night or °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
in Khandgait (p115). The best months for 30 86 4.0
The customs declaration is checked by the
100
skiing are January and February, although two at least. There are also lots of opportunities customs official and then returned to you.
20
be warned: the average temperature dur- to sit on yaks, horses and camels, and plenty of 68 3.2 80
When you leave Mongolia, you will be asked
ing these months hovers around a very opportunities to meet playmates when visiting 10 50
2.4 60 to hand in the form – so keep it safe during
chilly -25°C. gers. For a child-friendly experience, try the very 0 32
1.6 40
your trip.
tame rides at Nairamdal Park (Children’s Park; -10 14
You can bring 1L of spirits, 2L of wine,
Offbeat Activities p78) in Ulaanbaatar. Check out LP’s Travel with -20 -4
0.8 20
3L of beer, three bottles of perfume and 200
Blokarting Mongolia is perfect for blokarting (aka land Children for more general tips. -30 -22 0 0 cigarettes into Mongolia duty-free.
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
sailing), but as there is nothing set up you need to BYOB If you are legally exporting any antiques,
(bring your own blokart). See www.gobiblokartraid Practicalities you must have a receipt and customs certifi-
Average
.com for details. Items such as formula, baby food and nap- ULAANBAATAR 1286m (4215ft) Max/Min cate from the place you bought them. Most
Dog sledding Organised by Wind of Mongolia (p82). pies (diapers) are sold at the State Department °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm reliable shops in Ulaanbaatar can provide
Trips are held in Terelj (December to February) for US$60 Store (Map pp70–1) and Sky Shopping Centre 30 86 4.0 100
this. If you don’t get one of these you’ll need
to US$80 per day and Khövsgöl Nuur (March to April); (Map p64) in Ulaanbaatar, but can be more 20 68 3.2 80 to get one from the Centre of Cultural Heritage
cross-lake trips take eight days (all-inclusive US$2600). difficult to find in the countryside. Few cars 10 50
2.4 60
(x011-312 735, 323 747) in the Cultural Palace
Kite boarding There is nothing organised on this front in Mongolia even have working seat belts so 0 32 in Ulaanbaatar. You’ll need to fill in a form
so you need to bring all your own gear, but there is great you can pretty much rule out finding a car seat. -10 14
1.6 40
with your passport number, where the an-
boarding to be had on both Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur and You’ll have to bring your own if you have very -20 -4
0.8 20 tique was purchased and two photos of the
Lake Khövsgöl. small children. When travelling in the coun- -30 -22 0 0 antique itself.
Polo Legend has it that Chinggis Khaan’s troops used to tryside, deluxe hotel rooms normally come J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
If you have anything that even looks old, it
play polo using their enemies’ heads as the ball, but this with an extra connecting room, which can be is a good idea to get a document to indicate
practice seems to have died out long ago. Modern polo ideal for children. The four seasons are very distinct – win- that it is not an antique. That goes for Buddha
(sans severed heads) is occasionally played by local clubs. ter lasts from November to February, spring images and statues as well.
See www.ghengiskhanpolo.com for details. CLIMATE CHARTS from March to mid-May, summer from During your trip you will probably be of-
It is said that Mongolia can experience four mid-May until late August, and autumn is fered furs of rare animals, antique items such
BUSINESS HOURS seasons in a single day. This seems especially during September and October. The cold as snuffboxes, bits and pieces from Erdene
Government offices are usually open from true in spring when changeable weather cre- weather in the far north can last a month or Zuu Khiid, and even fossilised dinosaur bones
9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Many banks ates snowstorms intermixed with bouts of two longer than the Gobi areas. The highest and eggs. Please do not take up these offers.
stay open until 7pm and in Ulaanbaatar wind and sun. Bear in mind the wind-chill rainfalls occur in the taiga areas (subarctic These items are precious to Mongolia’s history
there are several offering 24-hour banking. factor: a 10-knot wind can make 0°C feel coniferous forests of Siberian larch and pine and the fine for illegally exporting fossils is
Most private and state-run businesses open like -5°C. trees) along the northern border, especially from US$100 to US$150, or five years in jail.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES certain areas. Some regions that have been South Korea (Map pp70-1; x321 548; fax 311 157;
Mongolia is a reasonably safe country in GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE hit by foot-and-mouth require drivers to www.mofat.go.kr; Olympiin Gudamj 10)
which to travel, but given the infrastructure The following government websites offer decontaminate their cars when they enter Spain (Map pp70-1; x329 856; fax 324 620; oyunit
of the country, state of the economy and other travel advisories and information on cur- and leave cities. This requires the spraying [email protected]; Chamber of Commerce Bldg, Suite 602,
development problems, you are bound to run rent hot spots. of tyres (or the whole car) and can cost a Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö 11)
into hiccups along the way. With a bit of pa- Australian Department of Foreign Affairs few thousand tögrög. Switzerland (Map pp70-1; x331 422; fax 331 420;
tience and planning, you should be able to (x1300 139 281; www.smarttraveller.gov.au) www.swissconsulate.mn; Diplomatic Services Bldg 95, 4-36)
handle just about anything. British Foreign Office (x0845-850-2829; DISCOUNT CARDS UK (Map p64; x458 133; fax 458 036; britemb@
www.fco.gov.uk/countryadvice) An ISIC student card will get a 25% dis- mongol.net; Peace Ave 30)
Alcoholism Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs count on train tickets plus discounts with US (Map p64; x329 095; http://ulaanbaatar.usembassy
Alcoholism is a real problem but is far worse (x800-267 6788; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca) some tour operators. Check the ISIC website .gov; Ikh Toiruu 59/1)
in the cities than in the countryside. Drunks US State Department (x888-407 4747; (www.isiccard.com) for updates.
are more annoying than dangerous, except www.travel.state.gov) FESTIVALS & EVENTS
when they are driving your vehicle. Drivers EMBASSIES & CONSULATES With the exception of Naadam (p96), held
who work for tour companies have been dis- Mongolian Embassies & Consulates on 11 and 12 July, Mongolia has few genuine
ciplined to hold their alcohol on trips, but tours where the promised accommodation, You’ll find a full listing of Mongolia’s embas- festivals. The Maidar Ergekh festival, held at
hitchhikers may encounter drunk drivers. food and service standards fell short of ex- sies and consulates at www.mongolianconsul a date according to the lunar calendar (usu-
Drinking is pretty common on the trains, pectations. It might be good to get in writing ate.com.au/mongolia/embassies.shtml. ally August), is a religious festival that used
which is another reason to travel in coupé exactly what is offered, and ask about compen- to draw thousands of monks and spectators
class or ‘soft seat’ (you can close your cabin sation if things don’t work out as planned. The Embassies & Consulates in Mongolia before it was banned in the 1920s by the com-
door). If the offending drunk happens to be riskiest tour companies are the ones operated A few countries operate embassies in munist government. Since being reinstated in
in your cabin, ask the attendant to move you by guesthouses and the ones that specialise in Ulaanbaatar, though for most nationali- 1990, the festival has been held in a different
to another cabin. onward trips to Russia. ties the nearest embassies are in Beijing or monastery each year. It involves tsam-mask
If camping, always make sure that you pitch Moscow. If your country has an embassy in dancing and the parading of a statue of the
your tent somewhere secluded, and that no Theft Ulaanbaatar, it’s a good idea to register with future Buddha (Maitreya) around the mon-
drunks see you set up camp; otherwise, they Petty theft is a fact of life in Ulaanbaatar and it if you’re travelling into the remote coun- astery. Although small and unpublicised, it’s
will invariably visit you during the night. you need to stay vigilant of bag slashers and tryside, or in case you lose your passport. worth asking about, especially if you have an
pick pockets, especially around Naadam Note that the German embassy also looks interest in Buddhism.
Dogs time when muggers do brisk trade on all the after the interests of Dutch, Belgian, Greek Ikh Duichin, or Buddha’s Birthday, is held
Stray dogs in the cities and domestic dogs starry-eyed tourists wandering about. In the and Portuguese citizens. The British embassy on 18 May and marked by tsam dancing in
around gers in the countryside can be vicious countryside, keep an eye on your gear and handles normal consular duties for most Gandan Khiid in Ulaanbaatar and by special
and possibly rabid. In the countryside, some don’t leave valuables lying around your camp Commonwealth countries. services in most other monasteries.
dogs are so damn lazy that you wouldn’t get site if you wander off. Lock your kit inside For details on getting visas for China, In an effort to boost tourism, travel com-
a whimper if 100 lame cats hobbled past; oth- your jeep or hotel whenever possible (drivers Kazakhstan and Russia, see p263. panies and tourist officials have launched a
ers will almost head-butt your vehicle and do a good job of watching your stuff). When Austria (Map pp70-1; x324 804; hk_at_ub@magicnet series of festivals in countryside areas. Some
chase it for 2km or 3km while drooling heav- horse trekking, be wary of Mongolians who .mn; Peace Ave 7) are fairly obscure, such as the Airag Festival in
ily. Before approaching any ger, especially seem to be following you; they may be after Canada (Map pp70-1; x328 285; fax 328 289; Dundgov aimag, which is held in late August,
in the countryside, make sure the dogs are your valuables or even your horses, which are [email protected]; Bodicom Tower, 7th fl, Sükhbaa- and the International Gobi Marathon, held
friendly or under control and shout the phrase easily stolen while you sleep. For informa- taryn Gudamj) in September (www.gobimarathon.com).
‘Nokhoi khor’, which roughly translates as tion on the dangers of theft in Ulaanbaatar, China (Map pp70-1; x320 955; fax 311 943; Zaluuchu- Others are catching on with both locals and
‘Can I come in?’ but literally means ‘Hold see p68. udyn Örgön Chölöö 5) The consular section is actually on foreigners. The Yak Festival (Arkhangai; early
the dog!’. Getting rabies shots is no fun; it’s Baga Toiruu. August), the Eagle Festival (Bayan-Ölgii; early
easier to just stay away from dogs, even if they Other Annoyances Denmark (Map pp70-1; x312 625; fax 312 175; October), the Camel Festival (Ömnögov; one
appear friendly. Heating and hot-water shortages and electric- [email protected]; MCS Plaza, Seoul St) week after Tsagaan Sar) and the Sunrise to
If you need to walk in the dark in the coun- ity blackouts are common in aimag capitals. France (Map pp70-1; x324 519; www.ambafrance Sunset 100km run (Khövsgöl Nuur; late
tryside, perhaps for a midnight trip to the toi- Some villages go for months without any util- -mn.org in French; Peace Ave 3) June) are worth checking out, especially if
let, locals have suggested that if you swing a ity services at all. Although official policies Germany (Map pp70-1; x323 325; fax 312 118; you’ve missed Naadam. See the website of
torch in front of you it will stop any possible have relaxed considerably since the arrival [email protected]; Negdsen Undestnii the Tourism Board (www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn) for
dog attack. of democracy, some of the old KGB-inspired Gudamj 7) upcoming events.
thinking still occurs among the police, espe- Japan (Map pp70-1; x320 777, 313 332; www.mn
Scams cially in rural backwaters and border areas. .emb-japan.go.jp; Olympiin Gudamj 6) FOOD
Professional scamming is not common; the Quarantine sometimes affects travel in Kazakhstan (Map pp70-1; x312 240; kzemby@mbox See the Food & Drink chapter (p42) for details
main thing to be aware of is dodgy tour com- Mongolia. Foot-and-mouth disease, malig- .mn; Apt 11, Diplomatic Services Corps Bldg 95) on what is on offer, the type of eateries and
panies that don’t deliver on their promises. nant anthrax and the plague pop up all the Russia (Map pp70-1; x327 191, 312 851; fax 327 018; costs. For this book, expect main dishes to
We’ve had letters from readers who booked time and may prevent you from travelling to www.mongolia.mid.ru; Peace Ave A6) cost T800 to T1500 in budget joints, T2000
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to T5000 in midrange places and T6000 to with English-language signboards. Nearly all If caught, drug use will give you a peek into Conservation Ink (www.conservationink) produces
T12,000 in most top-end restaurants. aimag capitals have an internet café in the Mongolia’s grim penitentiary system. maps (US$8) using satellite images combined
central Telecom office, and some of the big- The most common offence committed by with useful information on culture, wildlife
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS ger cities also have private internet cafés. A foreigners is straying too close to a border and tourist facilities. The national park series
Mongolia is not a gay-friendly place and not a handful of sum (district) centres also have without a permit. Violators end up paying a includes Altai Tavan Bogd, Khövsgöl Nuur,
place to test local attitudes towards homosex- internet access. Expect to pay between T400 fine and a few unlucky souls have been im- Gobi Gurvan Saikhan, Gorkhi-Terelj and
uality. While homosexuality is not specifically to T800 per hour at internet cafes, double or prisoned for a few days. If you run into serious Khustain Nuruu.
prohibited, some laws could be interpreted to triple that for hotel business centres. trouble, ask to contact your embassy. Chinggis Khaan junkies will want to check
make it appear illegal. Harassment by police Wi-fi (wireless) access is available at Making life difficult is that police often out the Chinggis Khaan Atlas, available around
has been reported by the gay and lesbian com- some spots in Ulaanbaatar; see the boxed blame the victim; don’t expect any sympathy Ulaanbaatar for about T8000, which maps his
munity, thus it should come as no surprise to text, p65. If you are staying in an apartment if you’ve been a victim of a crime or road every presumed movement in obsessive detail.
hear that Ulaanbaatar’s small gay and lesbian or otherwise have access to a phone line, accident. You’re more likely to be scolded The Welcome to the Land of Chinggis Haan
community is not well-organised. you can buy a pre-paid card that gives you about how careless you’ve been, which can be tourist map is a more reasonable survey of
Meeting places come and go quickly, so a dial-up connection. A 10-hour internet demoralising. Overall, police are harmless, but Khentii aimag, with good historical detail.
you’ll need to quietly tap into the scene and ask. card costs T4000 and a 30-hour card costs unreliable when you really need one. In many Western countries, you can buy the
As you never know what sort of reaction you’ll T6000, but remember that you will also ONC and TPC series of topographical maps
get from a Mongolian, try making contacts be charged a per-minute fee by the phone MAPS published by the Defense Mapping Agency
through the web. Insight can be found at www company while you are logged on, usually Maps of Mongolia produced outside the Aerospace Center in the USA. The maps are
.globalgayz.com/g-mongolia.html and travel around T15 per minute. The cards can country are routinely inaccurate and best topographically detailed but dated and are
info at www.geocities.com/gaytomongolia/. be bought at exchange kiosks in the State avoided. Maps can be ordered from www not reliable for place names or road layout.
Department Store. .shopmongolia.com; otherwise, just wait until Mongolia is covered by ONC (1:1,000,000)
HOLIDAYS There are three internet service providers you arrive in Ulaanbaatar. and TPC (1:500,000) maps E-7, E-8, F-7 and
Mongolians do not get many holidays. Naadam (Magicnet, Bodicom or Micom), of which Independent travellers should look out for F-8. Order from www.omnimap.com.
Festival and Tsagaan Sar warrant three days Magicnet (Map pp70-1; x011-312 061; info@magicnet the 1:1,500,000 Road Network Atlas (T15,000)
off each, plus a day off for New Year’s. Most .mn; National Information Technology Park, 2nd fl) is the produced by MPM Agency. Another handy MONEY
tourist facilities remain open during holidays, largest. If you live in UB, you can sign up map is the 1:2,000,000 Road Map of Mongolia The Mongolian unit of currency is the tögrög
but shops and offices will close down. The for an ADSL connection. The minimum fee (T6000). It has the most accurate road layout (T), which comes in notes of T5, T10, T20,
following holidays are observed: is US$20 per month for a 128kbps connec- and town names and usefully marks the kilo- T50, T100, T500, T1000, T5000, T10,000 and
Shin Jil (New Year’s Day) 1 January tion (with a US$40 installation fee). Ulusnet metres between all towns. T20,000. (T1 notes are basically souvenirs.)
Constitution Day 13 January; the adoption of the 1992 (Map pp70-1; x321 434; www.ulusnet.mn; Sambugiin Also useful is the Tourist Map of Mongolia There are also T50 and T100 coins. The highest-
constitution (generally a normal working day) Gudamj 18) offers internet via WiMax technol- (T6000), which marks a host of obscure histor- value note is worth around US$17.
Tsagaan Sar (Lunar New Year) January/February; a ogy, although for now it’s prohibitively ex- ical, archaeological and natural sights, as well Banks and exchange offices in Ulaanbaatar
three-day holiday celebrating the Mongolian New Year (for pensive (US$270 for the unit alone, US$110 as ger camps. On the back it has detailed maps will change money with relative efficiency.
more information see p44) activation fee, US$80 per month). of the areas around Ulaanbaatar, Kharkhorin Banks in provincial centres are also fine; they
Women’s Day 8 March (generally a normal working day) If you are going on a research project and Khatgal. Similarly, the Tourist Map of change dollars and give cash advances against
Mothers’ & Children’s Day 1 June; a great time to in remote areas and need an internet con- Ulaanbaatar (T6000) has a detailed ‘around debit and credit cards. However, since they
visit parks nection (and have a lot of spare cash lying Ulaanbaatar’ map on the back. All these maps are so remote it’s still a good idea to leave the
Naadam Festival 11 &12 July; also known as National around), it’s possible to set up a connec- are updated almost yearly.
Day celebrations tion using Broadband Global Area Network Explorers will want to check out the
Mongolian Republic Day 26 November (generally a (BGAN) technology. See www.inmarsat 1:500,000 series of topographic maps, which MONGOLIA’S CURRENCIES
normal working day) .com/Services/Land/BGAN. The system costs covers Mongolia in 37 maps. The cost of each Mongolia’s various rulers have ensured
around US$2800 and the service is US$40 a varies between T5500 and T7000, but don’t a constant change of currencies. During
INSURANCE month plus US$6 per megabyte. Monsat (see count on all being available. The topographic Chinggis Khaan’s time coins called sükh,
A policy covering loss, theft and medical ex- p260) provides BGAN service. Of course, maps are particularly useful if travelling by made from gold and silver, were used
penses, plus compensation for delays in your you’ll also need to power your device, which horse or foot or using a GPS unit, but they can as currency. During the Manchurian rule
travel arrangements, is essential for Mongolia. you can do with back-up computer batteries get expensive. A cheaper alternative is a series Chinese currency was used but Mongolian
If items are lost or stolen you’ll need to show or a solar-powered charger; see Sierra Solar of all 21 aimag maps (T25,000). traders preferred to use Russian gold, British
your insurance company a police report. You (www.sierrasolar.com). All these maps are available from the notes and goods such as tea, silk and furs.
may also need to prove damage or injury so Cartography Co Map Shop in Ulaanbaatar In 1925, four years after independence
take photos. All policies vary so check the fine LEGAL MATTERS (p65). It also sells handy regional maps (T3500 from China, the tögrög was introduced. At
print. For more on insurance, see p287. Foreigners’ rights are generally respected each) to the most popular tourist areas, includ- that time, one tögrög was worth US$0.88
in Mongolia, although you may bump into ing Khövsgöl Nuur (1:200,000), Gobi Gurvan cents; by 1928, one tögrög was worth up
INTERNET ACCESS the occasional bad cop or customs inspec- Saikhan (1:200,000), Terelj (1:100,000) and to US$52! Currently, about 1170 tögrög are
There are internet cafés on nearly every street tor who won’t be satisfied unless they’ve the stretch of road between Ulaanbaatar and worth just US$1.
in downtown Ulaanbaatar; most are identified gotten a piece of what’s inside your wallet. Kharkhorin (1:500,000).
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capital with enough cash to keep you going digital camera. These are best bought at home take your photograph?’ in Mongolian is ‘Bi good quality. A cashmere sweater will cost
for a week or so. or in Ulaanbaatar as electronic goods in aimag tany zurgiig avch bolokh uu?’ around US$40 to US$60.
When paying out large sums of money (to centres can be hard to find. Once you reach an Antique shops are good for Buddhas,
hotels, tour operators and sometimes airlines) aimag capital you can go to an internet café Restrictions thangkas (scroll paintings) and marvellous
its fine to use either US dollars or tögrögs. and burn your pictures to a CD or save them Photography is prohibited inside monasteries silver jewellery. For any of these you could
Other forms of currency aren’t usually ac- to a storage drive. and temples, although you may photograph pay from a few dollars to several thousand.
cepted, although the euro is probably second If you use film there are several places building exteriors and monastery grounds. If you are a serious buyer, ask a local friend
best. Cash offers the best exchange rates and around Sükhbaatar Sq that will process print You can sometimes obtain special permission to help you shop for the best quality stuff
you won’t be paying any commission charge, film cheaply, but the quality may not be to take photographs for an extra fee. and remember to pick up a certificate of
but for security purposes you can also use great; it is generally best to wait until you In most museums throughout the coun- authenticity for customs purposes.
debit cards (travellers cheques are going the get home. Slide film is rare and expensive, try you need to pay an (often outrageously The best place in the country for sil-
way of the dinosaur). so bring what you need and get it developed high) extra fee to use your still or video ver jewellery is Möngön Zaviya (p94).
Moneychangers who hang around the when you get home. camera. It is best to have a look around first Handmade felt carpets and wall hangings
markets may or may not be legal. They offer In summer, days are long, so the best time before you decide whether to fork out the are a speciality from western Mongolia, and
the best rates for US dollars and are usually to take photos is before 10am and between extra tögrög. you can buy them directly from cooperatives
safe, but the risks are obvious. Remember 6pm and 8pm, when Mongolia basks in gor- Don’t photograph potentially sensitive in Khovd and Bayan-Ölgii.
to change all your tögrög when leaving the geous light. As bright, glaring sunshine is the areas, especially border crossings and military Mongolian clothes such as dels (traditional
country as it’s worthless elsewhere. norm, a polarising filter is essential. If you do establishments. coats), hurrum (jackets) and boots are nice
See the inside front cover for exchange rates a jeep trip on an unsurfaced road, you can to take home; these are available at the State
at the time of publication and p14 for the costs expect plenty of dust, so keep the camera well Department Store and Naran Tuul Market.
of everyday items. sealed in a plastic bag. POST The market also has all the pieces needed for
For professional tips on how to take better The postal service is reliable but can often be
very slow. Allow at least a couple of weeks a ger. The problem, of course, is how to ship
ATMs photos, check out LP’s Travel Photography, one home. Try asking Daka at Happy Pioneer
The Trade and Development Bank has by Richard I’Anson. for letters and postcards to arrive home from
(x9909 7698; www.yurt-ger-yourte.com).
plonked down ATMs at a few key locations Mongolia. Foreign residents of Ulaanbaatar
find it much faster to give letters (and cash No matter how many times you’re offered
in Ulaanbaatar, Darkhan and Erdenet. These Photographing People them, dinosaur bones and eggs are definitely
ATMs accept Visa and MasterCard and work Always ask before taking a photograph. Keep to buy stamps) to other foreigners who
are departing. not souvenirs (legal ones anyway). Please
most of the time, allowing you to withdraw in mind that monks and nomads are not pho- say ‘no’.
up to T400,000 per day. Because most of the tographic models, so if they do not want to You won’t find letter boxes on the streets.
Golomt Bank branches are open 24 hours, be photographed, their wishes should be re- In most cases, you will have to post your
they don’t have ATMs (just give your card to spected. Point a camera at an urban Mongol letters from the post office. You can buy SOLO TRAVELLERS
the teller). Ordinary ATM cards issued from on the street and chances are they will cover stamps in post offices (and top-end hotels) The high costs of jeep hire mean that solo
your bank at home probably won’t work; try their face. Don’t try sneaking around for a dif- in Ulaanbaatar and aimag capitals. budget travellers will need to hook up with
to get a ‘debit’ card linked to your bank ac- ferent angle as this may lead to an argument. Postal rates are often relatively expensive, others for countryside trips. This usually
count. It should be associated with a credit Markets are often a place where snap-happy especially for parcels, for which there is only isn’t too much of a problem in summer,
card company. foreigners are not welcome. an ‘airmail’ rate – yet they often arrive months when vanloads of backpackers depart daily
On the other hand, people in the country- later (probably by sea). Normal-sized letters from the guesthouses in Ulaanbaatar.
Credit Cards side are often happy to pose for photographs cost T700 and postcards cost T440 to all coun- In Ulaanbaatar, single travellers on a
You can’t rely on plastic for everything, but if you ask first. If you have promised to send tries. A 1kg airmail parcel to the UK will cost budget will probably have to go for a dorm
credit cards are becoming more widely ac- them a copy, please do it, but explain that it T14,000, or T18,000 to the USA. bed in a guesthouse, or find another single
cepted in upmarket hotels, travel agencies may take several months to reach them – The poste restante at the Central Post traveller to share the cost of a double room.
and antique shops. Most of these, however, some nomads believe that all cameras are Office in Ulaanbaatar seems to work quite Countryside hotels usually have a per bed
charge an additional 3% if you use a credit (instant) Polaroids. Several nomads also well; bring along your passport as proof option. Cycling, camping and hiking trips
card. Banks can give cash advances off credit told us how devastated they were because of identification. Don’t even think about into the wilderness are safer in twos. If you
cards, often for no charge if you have Visa, but they had not received photos as promised by using poste restante anywhere else in do go off alone make sure to tell someone of
as much as 4% with MasterCard. foreigners. To simplify matters, bring blank the country. your route and expected time of return.
envelopes and ask them to write their ad- Contact details for the more reliable cou- Solo female travellers get around
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO dress on the outside. On the inside, make rier services, including DHL and FedEx, are Ulaanbaatar without any problems.
Mongolia’s remote and beautiful landscapes a note to yourself about who they were in found on p67. Travelling to the countryside alone can
make for some incredible photography, but case you forget. bring hassles from drunk or aggressive
it’s this same remoteness that requires extra When Mongolians pose for a portrait they SHOPPING Mongolian men. This is not to say it can-
planning when taking pictures. As you may instantly put on a face that looks like they Mongolia has a number of unique items that not be done (many women do travel alone),
go several days in a row without seeing a shop, are in mourning at Brezhnev’s funeral. You are worth bringing home. Cashmere and but it can be just easier to go with a group
internet café or electrical outlet you’ll need may need to take this Soviet-style portrait in wool products are usually at the top of the or partner. See p264 for more information
extra batteries and memory cards for your order to get a more natural shot later. ‘Can I list; Gobi, Goyo and Buyan brands are all for solo women travellers.
DIRECTORY 260 D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e 261

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TELEPHONE different requirements for area codes if using various outlets including the post office, State In the countryside, where there may not
It’s easy to make international or domestic or phoning a mobile phone; see below. Department Store or mobile-phone shops. be a bush or tree for hundreds of kilometres,
calls in Ulaanbaatar. Outside the main cit- In Ulaanbaatar, the domestic operator’s Instructions for the card are in Mongolian, modesty is not something to worry about –
ies, making phone calls is a challenge. Aimag number is x1109. but you can ask at the post office for English just do it where you want to, but away from
capitals are upgrading their systems but in the instructions. The Personal Identification gers. Also, try to avoid such places as ovoos (sa-
sum centres you’ll run head on into WWII-era Mobile & Satellite Phones Number (PIN) for these cards is the last four cred cairns of stones), rivers and lakes (water
technology, complete with wind-up phones The three main companies are Mobicom, digits of the code on the card. Be careful where sources for nomads) and marmot holes.
and operators languishing behind massive Skytel and Unitel. The mobile-phone net- you scratch off the code, poachers can peek The plumbing is decrepit in many of the
metal boards, busily plugging and unplugging work is the standard GSM (Global System over your shoulder, steal the code and use it older hotels, and toilet paper can easily jam up
wires and shouting ‘bain uu?!’ (is anybody for Mobile communication). If you bring before you do (which has happened at the the works. If there is a rubbish basket next to
there?!) into the receiver. Fortunately, mobile a GSM phone you can get a new SIM card post office). the toilet, this is where the waste paper should
phone technology is allowing many towns to installed in Mongolia. The process is sim- There are a variety of phone cards available, go. Most of the toilet paper in hotels resembles
leapfrog this old technology. ple – just go to a mobile-phone office (a and you usually get what you pay for; the industrial-strength cardboard, or may be pages
Ulaanbaatar landline phone numbers have Mobicom office is located on the 3rd floor of cheaper ones (such as Bodicom) have terrible torn from Soviet-era history books or recently
six digits, while most countryside numbers the State Department Store), sign up for basic sound quality and echo, but cost less than distributed bibles. To avoid paper cuts, stock
have five. Every aimag has its own area code; service (around T15,000), and buy units as US$0.10 per minute. up on softer brand toilet paper, available in
we have listed them in this book under the needed. Cards come in units of 10 (T2500), 30 the larger cities.
aimag capital headings. (T6600), 50 (T10,250) and 100 (T19,000). It is TIME
If you are calling out of Mongolia and using free to receive calls and text messaging charges Mongolia is divided into two time zones: the TOURIST INFORMATION
an IDD phone, just dial x00 and then your are almost negligible. If you are abroad, and three western aimags of Bayan-Ölgii, Uvs and Handy tourist information desks are available
international country code. On non-IDD calling a mobile-phone number in Mongolia, Khovd are one hour behind Ulaanbaatar and at Ulaanbaatar’s Central Post Office, Discovery
phones you can make direct long-distance just dial the country code (x976) without the the rest of the country. Mongolia does not Mongolia Information Centre, train station
calls by dialling the international operator area code. Note that you drop the ‘0’ off the observe daylight-saving time, which means and airport. They all stock books, maps and
(x106), who may know enough English to area code if dialling an Ulaanbaatar number that the sun can rise at very early hours brochures and have English-speaking staff.
make the right connection (but don’t count from a mobile phone but you retain the ‘0’ if in summer. Outside UB, the only similar tourist desk is in
on it). using other area codes. The standard time in Ulaanbaatar is UTC/ Mörön. In Mandalgov, the Ger to Ger office
The other options are making a call from Every aimag capital (and a few sum centres GMT plus eight hours. When it is noon in acts as an information desk, and in Bayan-
a private international phone office (Olon including Kharkhorin, Khujirt and Tariat) has Ulaanbaatar, it is also noon in Beijing, Hong Ölgii, the Strictly Protected Areas office does
Ulsiin Yariin), which are becoming common a mobile-phone service, and calls are fairly Kong, Singapore and Perth; 2pm in Sydney; the same.
in Ulaanbaatar but not in other cities. These cheap, making this a good way to keep in 8pm the previous day in Los Angeles; 11pm
charge reasonable rates to call abroad: T50 touch with home. the previous day in New York; and 4am in TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
per minute to the USA or T100 per minute New and used mobile phone shops are every- London. See the world time-zone map on Mongolia is a difficult place for wheelchair
to Europe. Calls from the central Telecom where in UB and also in some rural cities. It’s pp310–11. The 24-hour clock is used for plane travellers as most buildings and buses are
offices in any city will be more expen- a good idea to have a phone while travelling in and train schedules. not wheelchair accessible, and in addi-
sive, but not outrageous: T560 per minute the countryside as it allows you to communi- tion there are rough roads and generally
to the USA and UK, T820 per minute to cate with your tour operator should problems TOILETS poor standards of accommodation. Still,
Australia. To make the call, you need to arise on your trip. In most hotels in Ulaanbaatar, aimag capitals travel to Ulaanbaatar and jeep trips to
pay a deposit in advance (a minimum Note that if you have a GPRS phone and in most ger camps, toilets are the sit-down places such as Kharkhorin shouldn’t cause
equivalent of three minutes). Computers (General Packet Radio Service) you can access European variety. In other hotels and some too many insurmountable problems.
are often set up with headsets and Skype the internet with a normal SIM card. more remote ger camps, you will have to use If any specialised travel agency might be
(www.skype.com) software. If you are planning a serious mountaineer- pit toilets and hold your breath. interested in arranging trips to Mongolia, the
A couple of the top-end hotels have Home ing or horse-trekking expedition, considering best bet is the US company Accessible Journeys
Country Direct dialling, where the push of bringing or renting a satellite phone, which (x800-846-4537; fax 610-521 6959; www.disabilitytravel
a button gets you through to international isn’t too bulky and can be used anywhere. MARGASH & YOU .com) in Pennsylvania. At the very least, hire
operators in the USA, Japan and Singapore. A local company, Monsat (Map pp70-1; x011- There is another form of ‘Mongolian time’: your own transport and guide through one
You can then make a credit-card, charge- 323 705, 9120 6050; www.monsat.mcs.mn; MCS Plaza, Seoul add two hours’ waiting time to any appoint- of the Ulaanbaatar agencies (see p80). If you
card or reverse-charge (collect) call. St, Ulaanbaatar), rents ‘sat’ phones for US$5 to ments you make. Mongolians are notorious explain your disability, these agencies may be
Making a call to Mongolia is a lot easier, US$10 per day depending on the model. Calls for being late, and this includes nearly every- able to accommodate you.
with one catch. Dial the international ac- are an additional US$1.65 per minute to the one likely to be important to you, such as The following organisations offer general
cess code in your country (normally x00) USA or Europe. jeep drivers, your guide or the staff at a travel advice for the disabled but provide no
and the Mongolian country code (x976). museum you want to visit. You could al- specific information on Mongolia.
Then, for a landline number dial the local Phone Cards most adjust your watch to compensate for Holiday Care Service (x0845-124 9974; www
code (minus the ‘0’ for Ulaanbaatar, but in- If you have access to a private phone and need the difference. The Mongolian version of .holidaycare.org.uk; The Hawkins Suite, Enham Place,
clude the ‘0’ for all other areas) and then to make international calls, the easiest option ‘mañana’ (tomorrow) is margash. Andover SP11 6JS, UK) British holiday and travel informa-
the number. Be aware, though, that there are is to buy an international phone card, sold in tion service for disabled and older people.
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DIRECTORY
Mobility International USA (x541-343-1284; www time in Ulaanbaatar arranging an exit visa
.miusa.org; 132 E. Broadway, Suite 343, Eugene, OR 97401, (see opposite) from the Office of Immigration, VISAS FOR ONWARD TRAVEL
USA) Organises international exchanges. Naturalization & Foreign Citizens (INFC; Map pp70-1;
Nican (x02-6241 1220; www.nican.com.au; Unit 5, x011-315 323; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri), on the China
48 Brookes St, Mitchell, ACT 2911, Australia) Australian west side of Peace Bridge, opposite Naran The consular section of the Chinese embassy in Ulaanbaatar is a good place to get a visa for
organisation which provides information on recreation, Plaza. Note that on Wednesday it’s only open China. It is open from 9.30am to noon Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Transit visas (single or
tourism, sports and the arts for disabled people. in the afternoon. double entry) last up to seven days from each date of entry. Single- and double-entry tourist
SATH (Society for the Advancement of Travel for the To check current regulations, try the web- visas are valid for 30 days from the date of each entry and you must enter China within 90 days
Handicapped; x212-447-0027; www.sath.org) This site of the Mongolian embassy in Washington of being issued the visa. Single-/double-entry tourist visas cost US$30/60 and take a week to
US website contains tips on how to travel with diabetes, DC at www.mongolianembassy.us. issue. For three-day or same-day service, you’ll have to fork out an extra US$50 or US$60. You
arthritis, visual and hearing impairments, and wheelchairs. For information on getting visas to China, must pay in US dollars. Visas for US citizens are US$100, regardless of type.
Kazakhstan or Russia from Mongolia, In the summer of 2007, travellers reported being able to get a visa on the spot at the border
For general advice, bulletin boards and search- see opposite. in Erlian. Only time will tell if this becomes standard practice so ask around or check lonelyplanet
able databases try the following websites: .com’s Thorn Tree travel forum.
Access-able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) Pro- Tourist Visas
vides access information for mature and disabled travellers. Standard tourist visas generally last 30 days Kazakhstan
New Mobility Magazine (www.newmobility.com) An from the date of entry and you must enter The Kazakhstan embassy is open from 10am to noon and 3pm to 5pm Monday to Friday. Single-
excellent online resource for disability culture and lifestyle. Mongolia within three months of issue. entry, one-month visas cost US$65 and take five days to process (or pay double to get it the
Tourist visas usually cost US$25 for a single next day). A double-entry, three-month visa costs US$100. A multiple-entry visa valid for one
year costs US$205.
VISAS entry/exit, though there may be a ‘service fee’.
Currently, a 30-day tourist visa is easily ob- Each embassy or consulate sets its own price.
For single entry/exit visas you can expect to Russia
tained at any Mongolian embassy consulate, Getting a visa is by no means a straightforward process, but is not impossible. The consular sec-
consulate-general or honorary consuls. pay: A$65 in Sydney, UK£40 in London, C$80
in Ottawa and Y270 in Beijing. tion is open for visas from 2pm to 3pm daily. Almost everyone ends up paying a different price
To get a visa for longer than 30 days, you for their visa; costs vary between US$25 and US$200 depending on your itinerary and nationality.
must be invited or sponsored by a Mongolian Visas normally take several days, or even up
to two weeks, to issue. If you want your visa You will need three photos, an invitation or sponsor, and possibly vouchers for hotels. You can
citizen, foreign resident (expat) or Mongolian get a visa for 21 days but not more than that. You will also need ‘health insurance’, which local
company, or be part of an organised tour. It quicker, possibly within 24 hours, you will
have to pay an ‘express fee’, which is double agents can organise for about US$1 per day. A visa normally takes a couple of days to issue or,
is therefore possible to get a 90-day visa for if ‘urgent’, it can be issued on the spot for double the normal cost. However, your tour agent will
most nationalities; you just need to pay the the normal cost. If you want to stay longer
than 30 days, tourist visas can be extended in need around 10 days to get the vouchers, so start the process early. If you need vouchers the
inviting agency a fee of around US$30 (most consular will give you directions to a travel agent (usually Legend Tours; see p67). For additional
guesthouses can do this). Ulaanbaatar (see below).
Multiple-entry/exit tourist visas (which support, contact: http://waytorussia.net.
If you cannot get to a Mongolian consu-
late, you can pick up a 30-day tourist visa cost US$65 and are valid for six months after
on arrival at the airport in Ulaanbaatar the date of issue) are usually only issued to The INFC office is a branch of the main visa support you can write your own (handwrit-
or at the land borders of Zamyn-Üüd and foreign residents who do a lot of travel. office of the Ministry of External Relations (Map ten is OK); the letter should state the date of
Sükhbaatar. You’ll need US$53 and two pp70-1; cnr Peace Ave & Olympiin Gudamj; h9.30am-noon your arrival, the date of extension and the
passport photos. Transit Visas Mon-Fri). You may be sent to the Ministry if reason for travel.
Israeli and Malaysian citizens can stay visa- These visas last 72 hours from the date of your visa situation is complicated (ie you re- Getting a visa extension outside of
free for up to 30 days and Hong Kong and entry. This period will only allow you to get quire a work permit). The entrance is around Ulaanbaatar is difficult, as they would need
Singaporean citizens can stay visa-free for off the Trans-Mongolian train for a very short the back. to send your passport back to Ulaanbaatar. In
up to 14 days. time before catching another train to Russia If you have already registered, you should an extreme situation this might be possible at
US citizens can stay in Mongolia for up to or China. A single-entry/exit transit visa costs apply for an extension about a week before the INFC office in Ölgii.
90 days without a visa. If you stay less than US$15 (US$30 for express service), but cannot your visa expires. It costs US$15 for the first
30 days nothing needs to be done, other than be extended. (As with the tourist visas, the fee seven days and a further US$2 per day for up Exit Visas
having your passport stamped when you enter varies by embassy.) You will need to show the to an additional 23 days (they may otherwise Transit and tourist visas are good for one
and leave the country. train or plane ticket and a visa for the next charge a flat T3000 per day). You will need a entry and one exit (unless you have a double
All visitors who plan to stay more than 30 country (Russia or China). passport-sized photo and must pay a T5000 or multiple-entry/exit visa). If you are work-
days must be registered within seven days of processing fee. It should take two or three days ing in Mongolia, or if you obtained your visa
your arrival (see p264). Visa Extensions to process. If you can’t wait you can leave the at an honorary consul, you are usually issued
Mongolian honorary consuls can issue If you have a 30-day tourist visa you can passport here, but must pick it up four days a single-entry visa (valid for entry only). In
transit visas and nonextendable tourist visas extend it by another 30 days. For exten- before the first 30 day visa expires. For an this case, another visa is required to leave the
but only for 14 days from the date of entry. sions, go to the INFC office (left). The extra US$20 you can get one-day service. country. These visas are available from the
However, these visas are for entry only; they only catch is that if you stay longer than 30 Several guesthouses in Ulaanbaatar will INFC office (see opposite). For most nation-
cannot issue normal entry/exit visas, so you days you have to be registered at this office take care of visa extensions (and registration) alities the exit visa costs around US$20 and
will have to spend some of your precious (see opposite). for a small fee. If you don’t have a letter of for US citizens it is US$100 (plus an additional
 © Lonely Planet Publications
DIRECTORY 264 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o r k 265

DIRECTORY
US$3 processing fee). It is valid for 10 days, WOMEN TRAVELLERS Language Teaching a good starting reference is Golden Gate Friends
which means that you can stay 10 days after Mongolia doesn’t present too many problems Some Mongolians want to forget Russian and of Mongolia (www.ggfom.org).
your normal visa has expired. The exit visa for foreign women travelling independently. learn a useful European language, particularly
situation in particular applies to Israeli and US The majority of Mongolian men behave in English, so there is a demand (albeit low) Asral (x011-304 838; fax 011-304 898; www.asral
passport holders (who usually enter without a friendly and respectful manner, without for teachers. Colleges and volunteer agencies mongolia.org; PO Box 467, Ulaanbaatar-23) Travellers can
visas). Israelis need an exit visa if they stay ulterior motives. However, you may come are, however, on the lookout for qualified volunteer as English teachers at this Buddhist social centre
more than 30 days and Americans need one across an annoying drunk or the occasional teachers who are willing to stay for a few or work on the project farm in Gachuurt.
if they stay more than 90 days. macho idiot. The phrase for ‘Go away!’ is terms (if not a few years), but not just for a Australian Volunteers Abroad (AVA; x03-9279 1788;
‘Sasha be!’. week or two. Contact the voluntary-service fax 03-9419 4280; [email protected]; PO Box 350, Fitzroy Vic
Registration There are occasional incidents of solo agencies in your home country or the ones 3065) AVA has a handful of Australian volunteers in Mongolia.
If you intend to stay in Mongolia for more female travellers reporting being harassed listed below. Itgel Foundation (x9972 2667; www.itgel.org) Or-
than 30 days you must register with the police by their male guide. If your guide is male, Informal, short-term work may be possible ganisation that assists the Tsaatan people in Khövsgöl. Vari-
in Ulaanbaatar before the end of your first it is best to keep in touch with your tour through smaller organisations, such as the ous opportunities from IT support to veterinary assistance.
30 days of being in the country. (US pass- agency in Ulaanbaatar, perhaps making con- many private universities that have sprung Khustain National Park (www.ecovolunteer.org) The
port holders must register within the first tingency plans with them if things go awry up, or you may be able to do freelance tu- park runs a three-week eco-volunteer programme where
seven days.) (have a mobile phone with a local SIM card). toring for a while, but don’t expect to make you can help with research.
Registration takes place at the INFC office. Better yet, take a female guide whenever much money. In Ulaanbaatar try the Mongolian Peace Corps (Enkh Tavnii Korpus; x011-311 520) The
The process is free, but you have to pay T1200 possible. Knowledge University (x011-327 165; fax 011-358 organisation is well represented throughout the country.
for the one-page application. You’ll need one Tampons and pads are available in 354), the Ikh Zasag University (x011-457 855), the Alternatively, contact your local Peace Corps office in the
passport-sized photo. Most guesthouses can Ulaanbaatar and other main cities such as International School (x011-452 839; www.isumongolia USA (x1-800-424 858, 202-606 3970; fax 606 3110;
rustle up an invitation to Mongolia for you if Darkhan and Erdenet, though these will be .edu.mn), the Turkish School (x9978 0173) or Orchlon www.peacecorps.gov).
you require one. very hard to find the deeper you go into the (x011-353 519; www.orchlon.mn). UN Development Program (UNDP; x011-327 585;
As a formality, the registration also needs to countryside. Many women also find it useful fax 011-326 221; PO Box 46/1009, Ulaanbaatar, Negdsen
be ‘signed out’, almost as if you were checking to wear long skirts while in the countryside, Volunteer Work Undestnii Gudamj 12) The UNDP is always on the lookout
out of a hotel; however, the official you are so that they can relieve themselves in some Some organisations are anxious to receive help for committed and hard-working volunteers but normally
dealing with will usually do this when you semblance of privacy on the open steppes. from qualified people, particularly in educa- recruits abroad.
register so you won’t have to come back. A Although attitudes towards women are tion, health and IT development. Agencies are Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO; x/fax 011-313
specific date is not needed, just set the exit more conservative in the mostly Muslim more interested in committed people who are 514; [email protected]; PO Box 678, Ulaanbaa-
date as far out as possible and you can leave Bayan-Ölgii aimag, you don’t need to willing to stay two years or more, although tar) This British-run organisation is set up mainly for Brits.
anytime before that date. cover up as you would in other areas of short-term projects are available. In most in- It prefers you to contact the organisation through its UK
If you’ve arrived from Russia to western Central Asia. stances, you will be paid in local wages (or head office (x020-8780 2266; fax 020-8780 1326; 317
Mongolia, the INFC office in Ölgii (p224) can possibly a little more). Besides the following, Putney Bridge Rd, London SW15 2PN).
get you registered. WORK
If you don’t register, you are liable for a fine Mongolia is certainly not somewhere you can
(theoretically from US$100 to US$300) when just turn up and expect to get paid employ-
you leave the country. ment – the demand is not high even for teach-
ing English. Also, if you do get work the pay
Long-Term Stays will be poor (possibly the same as the locals),
The only way to remain in Mongolia on a unless you can score a job with a development
long-term basis (ie more than three months) agency, but these agencies usually recruit their
is to get a work or study permit. The com- non-Mongolian staff in their home country,
pany or organisation you are working for not from within Mongolia.
should handle this for you, but if you are If you are keen to work in Mongolia and are
working independently you need to go it qualified in teaching or health, contact the or-
alone. In most cases, with a letter from your ganisations listed opposite, network through
employer, you can get your stuff done at the internet or check the English-language
the INFC office. The staff may send you to newspapers in Ulaanbaatar.
the Labour Registration Department (Map pp70-1; Permission to work is fairly easy to obtain
x011-260 376, 260 363) in the Supreme Court if you have been hired locally. In most cases,
building on Sambuugiin Örgön Chölöö. your employer will take care of this for you.
Independent researchers and students are See also Long-Term Stays on left.
usually registered through the Ministry of For any project you get involved with, ask
Enlightenment (in Mongolian ‘Shinjileh the organisation to put you in touch with
Uhaan Bolovsroliin Yam’), in a building be- former volunteers or workers to get a better
hind the Ulaanbaatar Hotel. idea of what you may be in for.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
266 lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 267

Transport HANDY TIPS FOR AIR TRAVEL

Tip one: your luggage weight is determined by the airline with which you begin your journey,
not any middle segment or final segment. So if you are flying from the US it doesn’t matter that
MIAT’s baggage allowance is only 20kg or 30kg; you can bring as much as your original flight
Passport allows. (This applies if you check your baggage all the way through, but won’t work if you have
CONTENTS Make sure that your passport is valid for at a long layover en route.)
least six more months from the date of ar- Tip two: when changing planes in Beijing, your luggage will arrive on the carousel but you don’t
Getting There & Away 266 need to haul it back upstairs when you check in with MIAT/Air China. An attendant downstairs
rival. If you lose your passport, your embassy
Entering the Country 266 will collect onward baggage and send it to your next flight.
in Ulaanbaatar can replace it, usually in one
Air 266 Tip three: if you have an onward ticket for Mongolia, you can stay in Beijing for 24 hours
day. Before leaving Mongolia, check whether
Land 269 without a visa (despite what any Chinese embassy might tell you). Luggage storage is available
you’ll need an exit visa from the Office of
Getting Around 276
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
Immigration, Naturalization & Foreign at the airport if you need to spend the night in town.
Air 277
Citizens (INFC; p262).
Bicycle 278
Boat 278
AIR Tickets Note that you’ll need a double-entry visa to
Bus 278
Airports & Airlines Full-time students and people aged under 26 return to China, or you’ll have to buy one in
Camel & Yak 278
Ulaanbaatar’s Chinggis Khaan airport (x198, years (under 30 in some countries) have ac- Ulaanbaatar. Travellers without a Chinese visa
Car & Motorcycle 278
011-983 005) is Mongolia’s major interna- cess to better deals than other travellers. You have been refused boarding flights to Beijing.
Hitching 278
tional airport; the code is ULN. Because the have to show a document proving your date of MIAT (xin Beijing 8610-6507 9297) has an office in
Horse 279
runway was built on a slope, landings are birth or a valid International Student Identity Room 705 on the 7th floor of Sunjoy Mansion,
Local Transport 279
one-shot deals for modern jets. There are Card (ISIC) when buying your ticket. opposite the Beijing International Club, just
Minivan & Jeep 280
constant rumours of a new international air- Most travel agencies will offer discounted off Jianguomenwai Dajie.
Taxi 285
port in Töv aimag, though nothing has been tickets to Beijing and Moscow but not Aero Mongolia flies to/from Hohhot
Train 285
established formally. to Ulaanbaatar. In fact, unless you buy a in China on Monday and Thursday for
The only other airport with international through-ticket with Aeroflot or Air China US$180/280. It also flies to/from Tianjin on
GETTING THERE & AWAY flights is Ölgii, which is connected to Almaty
(Kazakhstan).
you will find it hard to even book a Moscow–
Ulaanbaatar or Beijing–Ulaanbaatar ticket
Monday, Wednesday and Thursday for a rea-
sonable US$150/241; the ticket comes with a
from abroad. The solution is to buy e-tickets free bus transfer to Beijing.
ENTERING THE COUNTRY Mongolia’s national airline, MIAT, has
Travel agencies include the following:
When entering Mongolia, by land or air, you brought its safety practices for international from MIAT’s website.
flights to near Western standards (domestic BTG Ticketing Co (x8610-6515 8010; www.btgtravel
should fill out straightforward immigration
and customs forms. You shouldn’t have to pay flights are a different story altogether). Online Australia & New Zealand .com)
booking is available through its website. On Flights to Mongolia go via Seoul or Beijing. China International Travel Service (CITS; x010-
anything if your visa is in order (see p262 for
international flights, MIAT allows 30kg of The cheapest return flights from Sydney to 6512 0507; www.cits.net)
visa information). You’ll have to register if you
plan to be in Mongolia for more than 30 days; baggage for business travellers and 20kg for Ulaanbaatar, on Korean Air, go for about
see p264 for details. Registering in Ulaanbaatar economy travellers. A$1990. Low-season return fares to Beijing Continental Europe
Most people fly in from Beijing, Berlin or from the east coast of Australia start at around Most Europeans generally fly to Mongolia
is fairly straightforward, and it’s also possible
Moscow; there are additional nonstop flights A$1080. The lowest fares are offered by from Moscow (see Russia, p268) or Berlin
in Ölgii if you arrive in western Mongolia.
from Osaka and Seoul. Current airline sched- Vietnam Airlines. Useful travel agencies: on either MIAT or Aeroflot. The fare to/from
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be
ules also allow you to fly from Ulaanbaatar to Flight Centre (xin Australia 133 133, in New Zealand Berlin is US$601/929 one way/return on
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/
Irkutsk, on Lake Baikal in Russia, and Hohhot 0800 243 544; www.flightcentre.com) MIAT and US$886/971 on Aeroflot.
travel_services.
(Khökh Khot), the capital of the autonomous STA Travel (xin Australia 1300 733 035, in New Fares to Beijing from Western Europe
region of Chinese Inner Mongolia. Zealand 0800 474 400; www.statravel.com) are similar to those from London (see
THINGS CHANGE... In July and August, most flights are full, so UK, p268).
The information in this chapter is particu- book well in advance. China Some travel agencies to check out:
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly Airlines flying to and from Mongolia: From Beijing there are daily flights on either CTS Viaggi (x06-462 0431; www.cts.it) Italian com-
Aero Mongolia (airline code MNG; x9191 2903; www Air China or MIAT. Between 15 April and 15 pany that specialises in student and youth travel.
with the airline or a travel agent to make
sure you understand how a fare (and ticket .aeromongolia.mn) September MIAT flies to Beijing daily except NBBS Reizen (x0900 10 20 300; www.nbbs.nl in
Aeroflot (airline code SU; x011-320 720; www Friday for US$191/341 one way/return. At other Dutch) Branches in most Dutch cities.
you may buy) works and be aware of the
security requirements for international .aeroflot.com) times flights are limited to Monday, Wednesday Nouvelles Frontiéres (x0825 000 747; www
Air China (airline code CA; x011-328 838; www.air and Friday. Air China has six flights per week .nouvelles-frontieres.fr in French) Many branches in Paris
travel. Shop carefully. The details given in
china.cn) (three in winter) from Beijing for the same and throughout France.
this chapter should be regarded as point-
ers and are not a substitute for your own Korean Air (airline code KE; x011-326 643; www.kor price. Air China’s one-way flight is US$349 at STA Travel (xin Paris 01 43 59 23 69, in Frankfurt
eanair.com) the full fare, but an advance ticket (booked two 069-430 1910; www.statravel.com) Branches across much
careful, up-to-date research.
MIAT (airline code OM; x011-322 118; http://miat.com) or three weeks ahead) is US$192. of Europe.
 268 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 269

Japan & Korea Aero Mongolia flies to Irkutsk on Tuesday by hundreds of dollars). Return high-season change it here or you’ll be keeping it as a sou-
In summer, MIAT flies to/from Tokyo and Friday (US$150/250). fares between Toronto and Ulaanbaatar are venir. If you need to spend the night there are
on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday around C$2200. some cheap and reliable hotels opposite the
(US$471/706 one way/return), to/from Osaka UK & Ireland Agencies include the following: train station.
on Friday (US$406/794), and to Seoul daily To Beijing, low-season return fares from Air Bridge (x1-303-757-1929; www.airbridgeusa.com) Zamyn-Üüd, on the Mongolian side, is not
in summer for US$381/498. Korean Air flies London start at £720 with Air China (flying The US office for Ulaanbaatar-based AirTrans offers the an interesting place, so you aren’t missing
daily to Seoul for US$379/493. For travel direct). Aeroflot flies Ulaanbaatar to London cheapest tickets to Mongolia (return fares from US$1580 anything if the train stops in the middle of
agencies try the following: on Friday for £563 one way, with a change of (west coast) to US$1730 (east coast). The company accepts the countryside (usually in the middle of the
No 1 Travel (x03-3205 6073; www.no1-travel.com) planes but no overnight stay or airport trans- payment by PayPal. night), and not at Zamyn-Üüd. Mongolian
STA Travel (x03-5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp) fer required. The Saturday connection is not Orbitz (x888-656-4546; www.orbitz.com) customs and immigration officials take about
as convenient as it entails a night in Moscow STA Travel (x800-777-0112; www.statravel.com) two hours to do their stuff.
Kazakhstan at your own expense. Offices in Boston, Chicago, Miami, New York, Philadelphia, Remember that if you are carrying on to
Agencies to try include: San Francisco and other major cities. central China there is absolutely no need to go
TRANSPORT

Border junkies may be interested in this ob-

TRANSPORT
scure route into Mongolia. Trans Ölgii flies Flight Centre (x0870 499 0040; www.flightcentre Travel CUTS (x1-866-246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) to Beijing first. From Ereen you can travel on
from Almaty to Ölgii via Üst Kamenogorsk .co.uk) Canada’s national student travel agency, which has offices to the rail junction at Datong and then catch
on Wednesday morning. One-way flights cost North-South Travel (x01245 608 291; www.north in all major cities. trains or buses to Pingyao, Xi’an and beyond.
about US$300. For information on flying in southtravel.co.uk) North-South Travel donates part of its Read Lonely Planet’s China guide for details
the other direction, see p227. Remember that profits to projects in the developing world. LAND on connections from Datong.
after arriving in Ölgii, you’ll need to get your STA Travel (x0870 163 0026; www.statravel.co.uk) There are two main land border cross-
passport registered within seven days if you Trailfinders (x0845 058 5858; www.trailfinders.com) ings open to foreigners: Ereen (Erenhot or CAR & MOTORCYCLE
plan on staying in Mongolia for more than 30 Érliàn in Chinese) and Zamyn-Üüd, on the As long as your papers are in order there is
days. The police in Ölgii can do this. USA & Canada Chinese–Mongolian border, and Naushki and no trouble crossing the Chinese–Mongolian
The cheapest fares to Ulaanbaatar are from Sükhbaatar, on the Russian–Mongolian bor- border in your own car. Driving around
Russia San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York der. It’s possible to cross borders by minivan Mongolia is a lot easier compared with China,
Aeroflot has four flights a week between on Korean Air, Air China, Northwest Airlines or train, though the latter is the more com- where drivers require a guide and Chinese
Ulaanbaatar and Moscow (US$450/580 and United Airlines. From the US west/east mon and convenient option. There are also driving permit.
one way/return). MIAT flies to Moscow coast, return fares start at US$1750/2000, other border crossings between Russia and
(US$361/587) on Tuesday and Sunday, con- unless you use the cheaper Air Bridge (see Mongolia; see p274. MINIVAN
tinuing to Berlin and returning the same day. opposite). Bear in mind that ticket prices Minivans shuttle between the train stations
MIAT also flies to/from Irkutsk on Monday, from the US can fluctuate wildly depending China of Zamyn-Üüd, on Mongolia’s southern bor-
Wednesday and Friday for US$117/200. on the month and day of travel (sometimes BORDER CROSSINGS der, and Ereen, the Chinese border town. For
The only border open to foreigners is the one details see p203.
between Zamyn-Üüd and Ereen. It’s open
daily but note that on holidays only the train TRAIN
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
(not the road) crossing will operate. Mongolia has trains to both Russia and China.
Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the In 2007 travellers were reporting that it was Getting a ticket in Ulaanbaatar can be very
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben- possible to get a Chinese visa at the border, difficult during the summer tourist season,
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming. but until this becomes a regular thing it’s best so you need to plan ahead.
to have a visa already in your passport. If you The yellow International Railway Ticketing
Flying & climate change are heading for Mongolia and need a visa, Office (Map p64) is about 200m northwest
Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced there is a Mongolian consulate (x/fax 479-7539200; of the train station. Inside the office, specific
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer Weijian Binguan Er Lou, Bldg 206; h8.30am-noon Mon-Fri) a rooms sell tickets to Beijing, Irkutsk (Russia),
distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at- 10-minute walk past the main long-distance Moscow, and Ereen and Hohhot (both in
mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and bus station in Ereen; a taxi will take you there China), but as a foreigner you’ll be directed
the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity for Y3. The consulate can process a visa in to a foreigners’ booking office (x24133, inquiries 243
consumption over a whole year. one day for US$55. 848; Room 212; h8am-7pm). It’s upstairs and staff
If you are taking the direct train between here speak some English. On weekends you
Carbon offset schemes China and Mongolia you will have up to three can use the downstairs booking desk. You’ll
Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the hours to kill in Ereen. You can buy snacks need your passport to buy a ticket. You can
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable for the train at the market or one of the well- book the ticket by phone for a T4500 booking
travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan stocked shops. Many of the shop signs are in fee. If you cancel a ticket there is a minuscule
and Uganda. Cyrillic Mongolian for the benefit of the many T1000 charge. There is no departure tax if
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, traders that come here. There are money- travelling on the train.
support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and changers and banks in and around the station. You can book a ticket for international
author travel. For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com. If you’re going to China and still have tögrög, trains out of Ulaanbaatar up to one month
 270 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 271

in advance, but for the Moscow–Beijing You can also buy train tickets privately;
TRAVEL AGENCIES & ORGANISED TOURS or Beijing–Moscow trains you will have to they will be more expensive than at CITS, but
In this section we list reliable agencies outside Mongolia that can help with the logistics of travel scramble for a ticket on the day before depar- you may also be able to arrange a stopover
in Mongolia, including visas, excursions or the whole shebang. These include travel agencies, ture (although you could try asking two days and visas. In Beijing, Monkey Business Shrine
adventure-tour operators and homestay agencies. The following can hook you up with tickets, in advance). If you have trouble booking a (x8610-6591 6519; fax 6591 6517; www.monkeyshrine.
individual itineraries or group packages. For Ulaanbaatar-based travel companies, see p80. berth, ask your guesthouse manager or hotel com) can put together all kinds of stopovers
The largest travel company specialising in Mongolia is Juulchin (www.juulchin.com), the former reception desk for assistance. and homestay programs. The company has
state company that has gone private. Juulchin has offices in Beijing, Berlin, Tokyo, Seoul and A taxi between Sükhbaatar Sq and the train a lot of experience in booking international
New Jersey. station costs about T900. trains for independent travellers. In Hong
It’s also possible to buy train tickets at the Kong, it goes under the name Moonsky Star Ltd
Asia Discovery Mongolia Information Centre (see (x852-2723 1376; fax 2723 6653).
Monkey Business Shrine (x8610-6591 6519; www.monkeyshrine.com; Room 201, Poachers Inn, 43 Beisan- p67). Note that the Russian embassy in Beijing
Refer to the boxed text on p275 for inter- is only accepting visa applications from of-
TRANSPORT

litun Nan, Chao Yang District, 100027, Beijing)

TRANSPORT
Moonsky Star Ltd (x852-2723 1376; www.monkeyshrine.com; Flat D, 11th fl, Liberty Mansion, 26E Jordan national train services. ficial residents of China. You are more likely
Rd, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, Hong Kong) to get a visa from the Russian consulate in
STA Travel Bangkok (x02-236 0262; www.statravel.co.th); Hong Kong (x852-2736 1618; www.statravel Direct Trains Hong Kong.
.com.hk); Japan (x03-5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp); Singapore (x65-6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg) Most travellers catch the direct train between The costs in tögrög for destinations in
Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. China from Ulaanbaatar are found in the
Australia There are two direct trains a week each following table.
Intrepid Travel (x03-9473 2626; www.intrepidtravel.com.au; 11 Spring St, Fitzroy, Victoria 3065) way between Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. One of
Peregrine Adventures (x03-9663 8611; www.peregrine.net.au; 258 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, Victoria 3000) these (3 and 4) is the Trans-Mongolian train, Destination 2nd class 1st class Deluxe*
which runs between Beijing and Moscow. The (hard (soft (coupé)
UK & Continental Europe other (23 and 24) is easier to get tickets for. sleeper) sleeper)
Discovery Initiatives (x01285-643333; www.discoveryinitiatives.com; Travel House, 51 Castle St, Cirencester, It is also possible to travel directly between Beijing 66,350 101,800 113,700
GL7 1QD, UK) Runs environmentally friendly conservation trips to Khövsgöl, the Gobi and elsewhere, in cooperation Ulaanbaatar and Hohhot twice a week, allow- Datong 55,150 76,450 88,250
with local scientists. ing you to either bypass Beijing completely or Ereen 37,100 50,900 63,310
Equitour (x061-303 3105; www.equitour.com; Herrenweg, 60 CH-4123 Allschwil, Switzerland) Specialises in catch a train or flight (US$80) on to Beijing Hohhot 47,710 64,140 77,000
horse-riding tours. from there. * Prices are for Chinese trains. Mongolian trains are about
Exodus (x020-8675 5550; www.exodus.co.uk; 9 Weir Rd, London SW12 0LT, UK) Trains leave from Beijing Train Station (x6563 15% to 20% cheaper for deluxe (coupé) class.
In the Saddle (x01299-272 997; www.inthesaddle.co.uk; Reaside, Neen Savage, Cleobury Mortimer, Shrop- 3262/42). If your luggage weighs over 35kg, on
shire DY14 8ES, UK) Runs horse-riding tours. the day before departure you’ll have to take it Local Trains
KE Adventure (x017687-73966; www.keadventure.com; 32 Lake Rd, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5DQ, UK) Organ- to the Luggage Shipment Office, which is on If you’re on a tight budget it’s possible to take
ises mountain-biking tours and guided ascents of Tavan Bogd Uul. the right-hand side of the station. The excess local trains between UB and Beijing. This will
Mongolei Reisen GmbH (x3303-214 552; www.mongoliajourneys.com; Am Spargelfeld 3, 16540 Hohen is charged at about US$11 per 10kg, with a save some money but involves more hassle and
Neuendorf, Berlin, Germany) maximum excess of 40kg allowed. uncertainty and requires more time. During
Off the Map Tours (x0116-2402625; www.mongolia.co.uk; 20 The Meer, Fleckney, Leicester, LE8 8UN) A The best place to buy tickets in China is at the summer season, from mid-June to mid-
Mongolia specialist with motorbiking, mountain-biking, horse-riding and hiking trips. the China International Travel Service (CITS; x010- August, international train bookings are al-
6512 0507; www.cits.net; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm) most impossible to get, unless you have booked
USA & Canada in the International Hotel, Jianguomenwai your seats weeks or months in advance. The
Boojum Expeditions (x1-800-287-0125, 406-587-0125; www.boojum.com; 14543 Kelly Canyon Rd, Boze- Dajie, Beijing. Tickets are also available at BTG local train may be your only option.
man, MT 59715) Offers horse-riding, mountain-biking, fishing and trekking trips. In Ulaanbaatar, Boojum’s local Travel & Tours (x010-6800 5588; Beijing Tourism Bldg, The first option is train 22 or 21, which
office is called Khövsgöl Lodge Company. 28 Jianguomenwai Dajie), between the New Otani runs between Ulaanbaatar and Ereen just
Geographic Expeditions (x1-800-777-8183, 415-922-0448; www.geoex.com; 2nd fl, 1008 General Kennedy and Gloria Plaza hotels. inside China. This Mongolian train leaves
Ave, San Francisco, CA 94129) Horse-riding trips to Khentii and jeep trips combining western Mongolia and Tuva in With CITS it is possible to book up to six Ulaanbaatar at 10.10pm on Thursday and
western Siberia. months in advance for trains originating in Sunday and arrives in Ereen at about 10.25am
Hidden Trails (x604-323-1141; www.hiddentrails.com; 659A Moberly Rd, Vancouver, BC V5Z 4B3) Horse- Beijing if you send a deposit of Y100, and the next morning, after completing immigra-
riding tours to Terelj and Darkhad Depression, in conjunction with Equitour. you can collect your ticket from one week tion and customs formalities. In reverse, train
Mir Corporation (x1-800-424-7289; www.mircorp.com; Suite 210, 85 South Washington St, Seattle, WA to one day before departure. There is a Y150 21 leaves Ereen on Tuesday and Friday eve-
98104) cancellation fee. nings and arrives the next day. The schedules
Nomadic Expeditions (x1-800-998-6634, 609-860-9008; www.nomadicexpeditions.com; Suite 20A, 1095 CITS only sells tickets from Beijing to for this train change regularly.
Cranbury-South River Rd, Jamesburg, NJ 08831) One of the best Mongolia specialists, offering everything from Moscow or Ulaanbaatar – no stopovers are al- The second option is to take local trains
palaeontology trips to eagle hunting and camel trekking. It also has an office in Ulaanbaatar. lowed. Tickets to Ulaanbaatar cost Y657/1006 to Zamyn-Üüd in Mongolia (see p203) and
Turtle Tours (x888-299-1439; www.turtletours.com; PO Box 1147, Carefree, AZ 85377) in hard/soft sleeper on the Saturday train then cross the border by minivan or jeep.
Steppes East (x01285-880 980; www.steppeseast.co.uk; 51 Castle St, Cirencester, GL7 1QD, UK) and Y595/999 in hard/soft sleeper on the From Ereen you can ply deeper into China
Wednesday train. by either train or bus.
 272 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • T r a n s - M o n g o l i a n R a i l w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • T r a n s - M o n g o l i a n R a i l w a y 273

TRANS-MONGOLIAN RAILWAY Classes

Travelling from Russia or China to Mongolia directly on the Trans-Mongolian Railway line is With a few exceptions, all international trains have two or three classes. The names and standards
arguably the most epic train journey you can make. The following gives general information on of the classes depend on whether it is a Mongolian, Russian or Chinese train.
this travelling route. On the Russian (and Mongolian) trains, most travellers travel in 2nd class – printed on tickets
The names of the rail lines can be a bit confusing. The Trans-Mongolian Railway goes from and timetables as ‘1/4’ and known as ‘hard sleeper’, ‘coupé’ or kupeynyy in Russian. These are
Beijing through Ulaanbaatar and onto a junction called Zaudinsky, near Ulan Ude in Russia, where small, but perfectly comfortable, four-person compartments with four bunk-style beds and a
it meets the Trans-Siberian line and continues on to Moscow. The Trans-Siberian Railway runs fold-down table.
between Moscow and the eastern Siberian port of Nakhodka – this route does not go through First class (printed as ‘2/4’) is sometimes called a ‘soft sleeper’ or myagkiy in Russian. It has softer
either China or Mongolia. The Trans-Manchurian Railway crosses the Russia–China border at beds but hardly any more space than a Russian 2nd-class compartment and is not worth the con-
Zabaikalsk–Manzhouli, also completely bypassing Mongolia. siderably higher fare charged. On Chinese trains it is nonsmoking, which can be a godsend.
The real luxury (and expense) comes with Chinese deluxe class (printed as ‘1/2’): it involves
roomy, wood-panelled two-berth compartments with a sofa, and a shower cubicle shared with
TRANSPORT

General Train Information

TRANSPORT
At the stations in Mongolia and Russia, there may be someone on the platform selling food; in the adjacent compartment. The deluxe class on Russian trains (slightly cheaper than the Chinese
the more entrepreneurial China, someone on the platform will have some delicious fruit and deluxe) has two bunks but is not much different in size from 2nd class and has no showers.
soft drinks for sale.
The restaurant cars on the Russian and Chinese trains have decent food and drinks on offer,
Customs & Immigration
There are major delays of three to six hours at both the China–Mongolia and Russia–Mongolia
for around US$2 to US$4. Staff on the Russian train to Moscow have a tendency to sell off all
borders. Often trains cross the border during the middle of the night, when alert Mongolian
the food at stops in Siberia, so you may find food supplies have dwindled by the time you
and Russian officials maintain the upper hand. The whole process is not difficult or a hassle, just
reach Novosibirsk.
annoying because they keep interrupting your sleep.
Note that toilets are normally locked whenever you are in a station and for five minutes be-
Your passport will be taken for inspection and stamping. When it is returned, inspect it closely –
fore and after. Showers are only available in the deluxe carriages. In 2nd and 1st class, there is
sometimes they make errors such as cancelling your return visa for China. Foreigners generally
a washroom and toilet at the end of each carriage – which always get progressively more filthy.
sail through customs without having their bags opened, which is one reason people on the
It’s a good idea to bring a large enamel mug (available in most Chinese railway stations) and
train may approach you and ask if you’ll carry some of their luggage across the border – this
use it as a scoop to pour water over yourself from the washbasin.
is not a good idea.
Generally you are allowed 35kg of luggage, but for foreigners this is rarely checked, except
During these stops, you can alight and wander around the station, which is just as well because
perhaps when departing Beijing. A lot of smuggling is done on this train, so never agree to carry
the toilets on the train are locked during the inspection procedure.
anything across the border for anyone else.
The trains are reasonably safe but it’s still a good idea to watch your bags closely. For added Tickets
safety, lock your cabins from the inside and also make use of the security clip on the upper The international trains, especially the Trans-Mongolian Railway, are popular, so it’s often hard to
left-hand part of the door. The clip can be flipped open from the outside with a knife, but not book this trip except during winter. Try to plan ahead and book as early as possible.
if you stuff the hole with paper. If you are in Ulaanbaatar and want to go to Irkutsk, Beijing or Moscow, avoid going on the
If you want to get off or on the Trans-Mongolian at Sükhbaatar, Darkhan (travelling from Russia) Beijing–Moscow or Moscow–Beijing trains; use the other trains mentioned on p271 and p276,
or Sainshand (from China), you will still have to pay the full Ulaanbaatar fare. If you are not actu- which originate in Ulaanbaatar. In Ulaanbaatar, you cannot buy tickets a few days in advance
ally getting on the train in Ulaanbaatar, you should arrange for someone in the capital to let the for the Beijing–Moscow or Moscow–Beijing trains, because staff in UB won’t know how many
attendant know that you will be boarding the train at a later stop. This is to ensure that your seat people are already on the train. For these trains, you can only buy a ticket the day before de-
is not taken. parture, ie on Wednesday for trains from Ulaanbaatar to Moscow, and on Saturday for trains
Tickets list the departure times. Get to the station at least 20 minutes before arrival to allow from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing. You will need to get to the ticket office early and get into the
enough time to find the platform and struggle on board, as the train only stops in Ulaanbaatar Mongolian scramble for tickets.
for about 30 minutes. For details on buying tickets in Ulaanbaatar see p99.
For detailed information on the Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Siberian trains, try Lonely Planet’s Several agencies in Western countries can arrange tickets on the international trains, but their
Trans-Siberian Railway. prices will be considerably higher than if you bought tickets from the point of departure. They
often only make the effort if you also buy an organised tour from them.
What to Bring Overseas branches of China International Travel Service (CITS) or China Travel Service (CTS) can
US dollars in small denominations are useful to buy meals and drinks on the train, and to ex- often book train and plane tickets from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar. Also try the following places:
change for the local currency, so you can buy things at the train stations. It’s a good idea to Gateway Travel (x02-9745 3333; fax 02-9745 3237; www.russian-gateway.com.au) In Australia.
buy some Russian roubles or Chinese yuan at the licensed moneychangers in Ulaanbaatar before GW Travel Ltd (x0161-928 9410; www.gwtravel.co.uk) In the UK.
you leave Mongolia. Intourist (x020-7538 8600; fax 020-7538 5967; www.intourist.com) In the UK.
Stock up on munchies such as biscuits, chocolate and fruit, and bring some bottled water or Lernidee Reisen (x030-786 0000; www.lernidee-reisen.de) German company.
juice. A small samovar at the end of each carriage provides constant boiling water, a godsend Regent Holidays (x0845-277 3317; www.regent-holidays.co.uk) In the UK.
for making tea and coffee, as well as instant packet meals of noodles or soup. The Russia Experience Ltd (x020-8566 8846; www.trans-siberian.co.uk)
Other essential items include thongs (flip flops) or slippers, an enamel mug, a flannel, toilet Sundowners (x03-9672 5300; fax 03-9672 5311; www.sundowners.com.au) In Australia.
paper, plenty of reading material and loose, comfortable long pants. Tracksuits are a must for Trek Escapes (x866-338 8735; www.trekescapes.com) In Canada.
blending in with the locals. White Nights International Tourism (x/fax 800-490-5008; 610 La Sierra Dr, Sacramento, CA 95864, USA)
 274 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 275

From Beijing, the local train for Jining de- Both the road and rail crossings can be ago-
parts at 11.42am and takes about nine hours. nisingly slow, but at least on the road journey TRAINS TO/FROM MONGOLIA
A second train departs at 9.20pm and contin- you can get out and stretch your legs. Train Schedules change from one summer to another, and services reduce in winter, and can increase
ues to Hohhot. The train from Jining to Érliàn travellers have been stranded for up to 10 in summer. The durations below refer to the journey time to/from Ulaanbaatar.
(Ereen) departs around noon and takes six hours on the Russian side, spending much
hours. (Alternatively, a 7am bus takes just four of this time locked inside the train cabins. Train Train no Day of departure Departure time Duration
hours.) If you have to stay the night in Jining, Procedures on the Ulaanbaatar–Moscow train
there’s a budget hotel on the right (south) side are faster than on the local trains. China–Mongolia
of the plaza as you walk out of the train sta- We have received a number of complaints Beijing–Ulaanbaatar 23 Tue 7.40am* 30hr
tion. Most transport between Ereen and the about scams and problems with customs on Beijing–Ulaanbaatar–(Moscow) 3 Thu 1.50am 30hr
border takes place in the morning. the Russian side of the border, so be ready Hohhot–Ulaanbaatar 215 Sun, Wed 10.40pm 30hr
for anything. Mongolia–China
Russia One thing to be careful about is the
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
Ulaanbaatar–Beijing 24 Thu 8.05am 30hr
BORDER CROSSINGS Russian exit declaration form. The currency (Moscow)–Ulaanbaatar–Beijing 4 Thu 8.05am 30hr
Most travellers go in and out of Russia at you list on the form must match the cur- Ulaanbaatar–Hohhot 34 Mon, Fri 8.10pm 24hr
the Naushki–Sükhbaatar train border cross- rency you listed on the customs form you Mongolia–Russia
ing. In addition, there are three road cross- received when you entered the country. If
the form shows that you are leaving with Ulaanbaatar–Irkutsk 263 daily 7.35pm 36hr
ings: Tsagaannuur–Tashanta in Bayan-Ölgii Ulaanbaatar–Moscow 5 Tue, Fri 1.50pm 70hr
aimag, Altanbulag–Kyakhta in Selenge and more dollars or euros than you had when
(Beijing)–Ulaanbaatar–Moscow 3 Thu 1.15pm 100hr
Ereentsav–Solovyevsk in Dornod. The cross- you arrived, you will have to get off the
ings are open from 9am to noon and 2pm to train and change all the excess money into Russia–Mongolia
6pm daily except holidays. roubles. Further, if the entry form was not Irkutsk–Ulaanbaatar 264 daily 7.10pm 36hr
There is hope that the Khankh–Mondy stamped when you arrived in Russia (or if Moscow–Ulaanbaatar 6 Wed, Thu 9pm 70hr
border in northern Khövsgöl will soon be you never received one) it will be considered Moscow–Ulaanbaatar–(Beijing) 4 Sun 7.55pm 100hr
opened; check the situation before heading invalid, so have the form stamped even if *Train 23 passes through Datong at approximately 2.15pm, Jining at 4.15pm, Ereen at 8.45pm
out this way. you have nothing to declare. and Zamyn-Üüd at 11.45pm.

MONGOLIA OR BUST To avoid these problems, either don’t cross ers, you can use US dollars cash to get by until
In an age when getting from point A to point B has been simplified to the point of blandness, the border with foreign currency (roubles are you change money elsewhere.
the Mongol Rally attempts to put a bit of spark back into the journey to Mongolia. According to OK) or be vigilant with that exit declaration
rally rules, the London-to-Mongolia trip must be made in a vehicle that has an engine capacity of form. Lying about not having foreign cash BUS
1L or less. In other words, you have to travel 16,000km (10,000 miles) across some of the world’s is one option, but you run the risk of being Bus is probably the fastest form of public
most hostile terrain in a piece of crap barely capable of a drive down to the corner shop. searched. Telling the border guard you plan transport between Mongolia and Russia. A
The wacky idea of driving from London to Mongolia in a clapped-out banger was dreamt up to use a credit card may work. daily bus operated by Vostok Trans (x9666 5531)
by Englishman Thomas Morgan, whose own attempt to accomplish the feat failed miserably in departs Ulaanbaatar bound for Ulan Ude. It
2003. Morgan had another go in 2004 and completed the trip, along with a few friends who Russian & Mongolian Border Towns departs at 7.30pm, and the journey takes 10
were inspired by the utter lunacy of it all. Since then the Mongol Rally has become an annual Customs and immigration between Naushki hours and costs T33,600. Buses leave from
rite of passage for English adventurers. and Sükhbaatar can take at least four hours. You outside the Discovery Mongolia Information
The journey begins by selecting a vehicle. Antique gutless wonders such as old Fiat Pandas can have a look around Naushki, but there is lit- Centre (p67). An Ulan Ude bus departs at the
and Ford Fiestas can be purchased for around 100 quid in England. Next, assemble your team – tle to see and the border crossing usually takes same time for Ulaanbaatar, leaving from the
you can have as many people as you can squeeze into the damn thing. Then pay your dues: it’s place in the middle of the night. Surprisingly, Hotel Baikal in Ulan Ude. In Ulan Ude con-
£387 to enter and then you must raise another £1000, which will go to a charity in Mongolia you may have difficulty finding anyone at the tact Trio-Impex (x3012-217 277; [email protected]) or
or another country en route (in 2007 the Mongol Rally raised over £200,000 in charity money). Naushki station to change money, so wait until Buryat-Intour (x3012-210 056; [email protected]).
Finally, zoom out of London with 200 other likeminded drivers on 1 July. Sükhbaatar or Ulaanbaatar, or somewhere else
The organisers give absolutely no advice on how to actually get to Mongolia; that you’ve got in Russia. (Get rid of your tögrög before you CAR & MOTORCYCLE
to figure out on your own. Teams have travelled as far north as the Arctic Circle and as far south leave Mongolia, as almost no-one will want to It’s possible to drive between Russia and
as Afghanistan on their way across the Asian landmass. This is by no means a race – whether touch them once you are inside Russia.) Mongolia at Tsagaannuur (Bayan-Ölgii),
you arrive first or last, your only reward is a round of free beers at the finish line at Dave’s Place The train may stop for one or two hours Altanbulag (Selenge) and Ereentsav (Dornod).
(p91). Some teams make the trip in around five weeks, while others have taken as long as three at, or near, the pleasant Mongolian border However, these road crossings can be difficult
months, stopping off at places en route. town of Sükhbaatar, but there is no need to and time consuming – up to six hours if traffic
The rally is organised by the grandly titled League of Adventurists International (http://mon look around. You may be able to buy some is backed up or if you have visa problems.
golrally.theadventurists.com). If you want to sign up, contact the organisers early as there are only a Russian roubles or Mongolian tögrög from a In order to speed things up, it may help to
limited number of spots available and these sell out a year in advance. moneychanger at the train station, but the rate have a letter written by the Mongolian con-
will be poor. If there aren’t any moneychang- sular (or Russian consular if you are headed
 276 G E T T I N G A R O U N D lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 277

that way) when you get your visa. The letter involve more hassles, especially as Russian wreak havoc. Driving in the dark is also a Checking In
should state that you are authorised to take a visas are more difficult to arrange than great way to get completely lost. Get to the airport at least one hour before
car or motorcycle across the border. A carnet Chinese due to Russian officials wanting full your flight. Even if you have a ticket, flight
(passport for your car) may be useful but is not details of your itinerary. number and an allocated seat number, don’t
necessary. US citizens may want to bring docu- In Moscow you can buy tickets at the
AIR
Mongolia, a vast, sparsely populated country assume the plane won’t be overbooked. There
mentation stating that visas are not needed as building on Ulitsa Krasnoprudnaya 1, are usually no assigned seats so you’ll have to
proof to inexperienced border guards. next door to the Yaroslavl train station, with very little infrastructure, relies heavily on
air transport. It has 44 functioning airports, al- do some scrambling once on board. Try to
Foreigners are currently not allowed to from where the trains to Ulaanbaatar and make certain your luggage has gone on the
‘walk’ across the Kyakhta–Altanbulag bor- Beijing leave. though only 12 of those have paved airstrips.
plane. If possible, carry your pack on as hand
der, but they are allowed to pass through in a Infinity Travel (x095-234 6555; fax 095-234 6556; Almost all of the destinations are served
luggage to save time and the worry of losing
car or even on a motorcycle, so you may have www.infinity.ru) in Moscow is affiliated with the directly from Ulaanbaatar, so flying from,
your bag. However, make sure you don’t have
to pay someone to drive you across. Things Traveller’s Guesthouse and is one of the bet- say, Dalanzadgad to Bayan-Ölgii is impossible
any sharp or blunt objects in your carry-on
continue to change so it’s worth asking if you ter private sellers. without first returning to UB. A T2000 domes-
TRANSPORT

(including bike tools). Gas canisters are not

TRANSPORT
can walk across the border. A reliable agency in Ulan Ude is Buryat- tic departure tax is payable at the airport.
allowed on any flight.
Intour (x3012-210 056; [email protected]; 12 Ranzhurov
TRAIN Sta, Ulan Ude 670000). Airlines in Mongolia
Besides the Trans-Mongolian Railway con- In Irkutsk, you can try Irkutsk-Baikal Costs
MIAT (x011-322 118; http://miat.com) is the state- The foreigner price is often several times
necting Moscow and Beijing, there is a direct Intourist (x3952-290 161; Hotel Intourist, 14 Bulvar owned airline that once flew to every corner of
train twice a week connecting Ulaanbaatar Gagarina 44, Irkutsk 664025) or Irkutsk Baikal Travel Inc more than what Mongolians pay for tickets.
the country. A lack of functioning aeroplanes Anyone can buy a ticket on your behalf, but
and Moscow, which is easier to book from (x3952-200 134; fax 3952-200 070; www.irkutsk-baikal and increased competition has limited its serv-
Ulaanbaatar. The epic trip takes four days. .com; 1a Cheremhovsky Lane, Irkutsk 664025). you will always have to pay in US dollars (or
ice to only a handful of cities, namely Mörön, by credit card in Ulaanbaatar). Tickets range
If you are headed to Lake Baikal, there is a Approximate costs (in tögrög) for major Arvaikheer, Altai, Khovd and Dalanzadgad.
daily train between Ulaanbaatar and Irkutsk, destinations in Russia from Ulaanbaatar are from US$66 (to Arvaikheer) to US$183 for
which stops en route in Darkhan. These trains listed below. Exact costs depend on whether MIAT is not known for its safety record, a four-hour, 1380km flight to the far west –
stop at every village, however, and train 263 the train is Russian, Chinese or Mongolian; although it hasn’t had a fatal crash since 1998. pretty reasonable, considering the distances.
travels past Lake Baikal at night, so if you are we have listed the most expensive. Its domestic planes may be old but the pilots Children aged between five and 16 years pay
in a hurry or want to see the lake, take the are the most experienced in the business. half; under fives fly free. If you’ve come on a
Ulaanbaatar–Moscow (train 5) as far as Irkutsk. Destination 2nd class 1st class Deluxe MIAT’s international service, on the other student visa you can get 25% to 50% off the
Note that departure and arrival times at Irkutsk (hard (soft (coupé) hand, has seen dramatic improvements in cost of the ticket.
are given in Moscow time, although Irkutsk is sleeper) sleeper) recent years. Its fleet includes an Airbus 310 Ask about baggage allowances when you
actually five hours ahead of Moscow. and a Boeing 737. buy your aeroplane ticket. EZ Nis allows you
Irkutsk 33,100 53,720 60,430 Aero Mongolia (x011-283 029; www.aeromongolia
This trip can be done more cheaply by trav- Krasnoyarsk 60,540 74,220 99,220 to carry 20kg without extra charges.
elling in stages on local trains (eg from Ulan .mn) began service in 2003 and now operates
Moscow 101,420 139,510 160,880
Ude to Naushki, Naushki to Sükhbaatar, and Naushki 21,450 24,970 35,750 two Fokker aircraft. Routes change but in
Sükhbaatar to Ulaanbaatar), but this would Novosibirsk 69,210 84,860 113,280 2007 it flew domestic services to Ölgii, Donoi Reservations & Tickets
Omsk 77,020 94,370 126,220 (Uliastai), Dalanzadgad, Mörön, Ulaangom, A domestic ticket reservation isn’t worth
Perm 94,220 114,400 152,130 Choibalsan and Khovd. It is really stingy on diddly-squat until you have a ticket in your
BOGIES Ulan Ude 28,630 43,060 n/a baggage allowance, allowing only 15kg (in- hand. In the countryside, buy your ticket as
Yekaterinburg 91,020 110,350 148,080 cluding hand luggage); any kilogram over the soon as you arrive.
Don’t be concerned if you get off at Ereen limit costs T2500. It only accepts cash pay- You can buy a return ticket in Ulaanbaatar,
(on the Chinese side of the border) and the ments and the rate will be better if you pay in but there is no computerised reservation sys-
train disappears from the platform. About
two hours are spent changing the bogies
(wheel assemblies) because the Russians
GETTING AROUND US dollars. Aero Mongolia also serves Hohhot
and Tianjin in China, and Irkutsk in Russia.
tem connecting the various airports around
the country so you will have to reconfirm your
Travelling around the countryside independ- EZ Nis (x011-313 689; www.eznis.com) oper- reservation at the airport as soon as you arrive
(and, therefore, the Mongolians) and the
ently is the best way to see Mongolia and ates two Swedish-built Saab 340B propeller at your destination.
Chinese use different railway gauges. Train
meet the people, but there are several matters aeroplanes and has domestic flights to/from If you wish to fly in one direction and
buffs may want to see the bogie-changing
you need to be aware of. Annual outbreaks of UB and Choibalsan, Baruun-Urt, Mörön, return by road in the other (for example to
operation. Stay on the train after it dis-
forest fires, the plague, foot-and-mouth and Ulaangom, Khovd, Bayankhongor and Mörön), it’s best to fly from Ulaanbaatar,
gorges passengers in Ereen. The train then
even cholera may affect your travel plans if Dalanzadgad. More destinations are planned, where you are more likely to get a ticket and
pulls into a large shed about 1km from the
there are quarantine restrictions. so check the schedule. It’s a slick and reli- a seat, and then return overland – otherwise
station. Get off immediately before the staff
Generally, shortages of petrol and spare able operation, but more expensive than Aero you may wait days or more for a flight and
lock the doors – they really don’t want you
parts are now uncommon, except in remote Mongolia and MIAT. ticket in Mörön.
in the train anyway. It’s OK to walk around
the shed and take photos, but don’t get in regions. Accidents are not uncommon. Try Blue Sky Aviation (x011-312 085; fax 011-322 857; Seats can be difficult to get in summer,
anybody’s way. to avoid travelling at night, when unseen www.bsamongolia.com) has a nine-seat Cessna that especially in the July tourist peak and in late
potholes, drunk drivers and wildlife can can be chartered for any part of the country. August as students return to college.
 278 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H o r s e 279

BICYCLE nature keep moving, so even the roads are and the people so poor, hitching (usually on experience, you should be able to find a horse
For keen bikers with a sense of adventure, seminomadic, shifting like restless rivers. trucks) is a recognised – and, often, the only – suited to your needs. Mongolians swap horses
Mongolia offers an unparalleled cycling ex- Remote tracks quickly turn into eight-lane form of transport in the countryside. Hitching readily, so there’s no need to be stuck with a
perience. The vast, open steppes make for dirt highways devoid of any traffic, making is seldom free and often no different from just horse you don’t like, or which doesn’t like
rough travel but if properly equipped there is navigation tricky – some drivers follow the waiting for public transport to turn up. It is you. The only exception is in April and May,
nothing stopping you from travelling pretty telephone lines when there are any, or else ask always slow – after stopping at gers to drink, when all animals are weak after the long win-
much anywhere (although a trip to the Gobi for directions at gers along the way. Towns fixing flat tyres, breaking down, running out ter and before fresh spring plants have made
could only be done with vehicle support). For with food and water are few and far between, of petrol and getting stuck in mud and rivers, their way through the melting snows. The
details on cycle touring, see p55. and very few people in the countryside will a truck can take 48 hours to cover 200km. best time for riding is in the summer (June
speak anything but Mongolian or, if you are Hitching is not generally dangerous per- to September).
BOAT lucky, Russian. sonally, but it is still hazardous and often ex- You can rent a horse and guide in most
Although there are 397km of navigable wa- To help you find your way around, use tremely uncomfortable. Don’t expect much tourist areas for between US$6 and US$20 per
the GPS Coordinates Table (p284), which traffic in remote rural areas; you might see day (the latter at ger camps). Most foreign (see
TRANSPORT

terways in Mongolia, rivers aren’t used for

TRANSPORT
transporting people or cargo. The biggest contains many towns and villages, and some one or two vehicles a day on many roads, and p270) and local travel agencies also organise
boat in the country is the Sükhbaatar, which sights. The coordinates for a number of other sometimes nobody at all for several days. In horse-riding trips.
very occasionally travels around Khövsgöl sights are included in the regional chapters. the towns, ask at the market, where trucks in- One thing to bear in mind is that when
Nuur. There’s also a customs boat that patrols There are a couple of car-rental agencies variably hang around, or at the bus/truck/jeep mounting a horse (or camel), do so only from
the Selenge Gol on the border of Russia and in Ulaanbaatar, but they require that you be station. The best place to wait is the petrol the left. The animals have been trained to
Mongolia. Some ger camps at Khövsgöl Nuur driven by one of their drivers. Drive Mongolia station on the outskirts of town, where most accept human approach from the left, and
also own small boats that can be chartered. (x011-312 277, 9911 8257; www.drivemongolia.com) vehicles stop before any journey. may rear if approached the wrong way. The
is a tour operator that allows you to drive If you rely on hitching entirely, though, you Mongolians use the phrase ‘chu!’ to make their
BUS a hire vehicle, but you need to go with their will just travel from one dreary aimag town to horses go. Somewhat telling about the obsti-
Private bus companies serve a hand- support vehicle or be accompanied by a another. You still need to hire a jeep to see, for nate nature of Mongolian horses is that there
ful of Mongolian cities, all connected to Mongolian driver. Their jeeps cost around example, the Gobi Desert, the mountains in is no word for ‘stop’. If you are considering a
Ulaanbaatar. These include Baruun-Urt, US$50 per day. Khentii or some of the lakes in the far west. multiday horse trip, remember that horses at-
Öndörkhaan, Dalanzadgad, Tsetserleg, If you want to buy a vehicle, you will Truck drivers will normally expect tract all kinds of flies. Also, if you’re not used
Arvaikheer, Erdenet, Darkhan and Mörön. have to ask around, or check out the tsaiz some negotiable payment, which won’t be to riding a horse, you’re likely to get mighty
Most buses are old rust buckets, except the zakh (car market) in the northeastern part much cheaper than a long-distance bus or stiff and sore.
services to Darkhan and Erdenet, which use of Ulaanbaatar. A new Ij Planeta – the shared jeep; figure on around T1500 per A few foreigners cherish the idea of buy-
modern buses. The benefit of using buses is Russian-made motorcycle you see all over hour travelled. ing a horse and taking off around Mongolia.
that they leave on time and drive straight to the countryside – sells for around US$900. Bring a water- and dust-proof bag to It’s a fine adventure (if you can get a visa for
their destination, as opposed to private vans, A new Russian jeep costs around US$5000. put your backpack in. The most important long enough), but there are several pitfalls to
which run on Mongolian time. In markets the sign ‘zarna’ (Зарна) on a jeep things to bring, though, are an extremely be aware of. For some handy advice see the
means ‘for sale’. large amount of patience and time, and a high boxed text, p281.
CAMEL & YAK Travellers can use an international driving threshold for discomfort. Carry camping gear Some final advice: watch and learn.
Intractable yaks and confrontational camels licence to drive any vehicle in Mongolia; expat for the inevitable breakdowns, or suffer along Mongolians almost invented horsemanship.
are recognised forms of transport in Mongolia. residents need to apply for a local licence. If with your travel mates. Also be prepared for at least one spill.
Camels, which can carry around 250kg, carry you buy a vehicle, inquire about registration
about one-third of all cargo around the Gobi at the local police station. HORSE LOCAL TRANSPORT
Desert. Yaks are also a useful and environmen- Two types of Russian fuel are available: ‘93’ Horses have provided reliable transport for Bus, Minibus & Trolley-bus
tally friendly way of hauling heavy cargo. is the best and the type used by Japanese jeeps, Mongolians for the past few thousand years. If In Ulaanbaatar, regular and very crowded
At Ongiin Khiid and Khongoryn Els you but it’s only generally available in Ulaanbaatar; it worked for the Mongol hordes, it can work trolley-buses, buses and minibuses ply the
can arrange a multiple-day camel trek. A few all Russian-made vehicles use ‘76’, which is all for you. In recent decades though, many herd- main roads for around T200 a ride. Cities such
travel agencies include a ride on a camel or that is available in the countryside. Petrol sta- ers have acquired motorcycles, but most still as Darkhan and Erdenet have minibuses that
yak in their programme. Otherwise, you can tions are marked by the initials ‘ШТС’, which use horses as their primary mode of transport. shuttle from one end of town to the other, but
always ask at a ger. is Mongolian for station. Mongolians rarely walk anywhere. you are unlikely to need them because most
It’s impossible to see everything by horse facilities are located centrally.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE HITCHING unless you have a lot of time, but it is the best
Travelling around Mongolia with your own Hitching is never entirely safe in any country way to travel around some areas (see p59 for Taxi
car or motorcycle – without a driver – is not in the world and we don’t normally recom- some ideas). Most importantly, riding a horse Only in UB and a couple of the bigger cit-
recommended. What look like main roads on mend it. People who choose to hitch will be helps you meet locals on a level footing and ies is there taxi service, though in UB any
the map are often little more than tyre tracks safer if they travel in pairs and let someone experience the country as Mongolians have vehicle on the street is a potential taxi –
in the dirt, sand or mud, and there is hardly know where they are planning to go. done for centuries. just flag down the driver and agree on a price.
a signpost in the whole country. In Mongolia, Mongolia is different, however. Because the If you are a serious rider, there are horses The rate at the time of writing was T300 per
roads connect nomads, most of whom by their country is so vast, public transport so limited everywhere; with some luck, guidance and kilometre, but this will certainly increase.
 280 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • M i n i v a n & J e e p lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • M i n i v a n & J e e p 281

MINIVAN & JEEP Mongolia. Most vehicles drive between un-

Both minivans and jeeps are used for long- interesting cities with little to see on the way. BLAZING SADDLES Joshua Handler
and short-distance travel in the countryside. You’ll still need to hire a car from the aimag If horses are of interest, Mongolia is the place to mount up. Riding from the time they can sit up
They can be shared among strangers, which or sum centres to see anything, and it’s usually straight, Mongolians have built their culture around the horse. They use it for work, transporta-
is good for a group of people headed from easier to organise this from Ulaanbaatar. tion and nutrition. No, Mongolians don’t eat horses; instead, they drink fermented mare milk
one aimag centre to another (or usually to/ For a long-distance trip bring snacks and during the summer months.
from Ulaanbaatar). Alternatively, they can be water; stops at a roadside guanz (canteen or Creating a horseback adventure is certainly doable; it just takes patient perseverance. (Actually,
hired privately. In most cases, the grey, 11-seat cheap restaurant) can be few and far between. these two words go well together regardless of your activity in Mongolia.)
Furgon minivans are used for longer cross- You can expect at least one breakdown and Gear and horses are the two most important subjects to focus on. A saddle, bridle, halter and
country trips that see a lot of traffic. Jeeps, it would be a good idea to bring a sleep- hobble can all be bought at the outdoor market in Ulaanbaatar. An English hybrid saddle can
khaki-coloured or green, are found in more ing bag and warm clothes just in case you be bought for T55,000 to T65,000, packsaddles for half that.
remote areas such as sum (district) centres. have to spend the night somewhere. Long- Unless you have thighs of steel and have previously ridden in a Mongolian saddle, it is best to
distance travel of over 10 hours is fiendishly
TRANSPORT

They are nicknamed jaran yös (shortened to

TRANSPORT
admire their beauty from afar. If you are long-legged, bring narrow stirrup leathers from home.
jaris), which means ‘69’ – the number of the uncomfortable. Most people who take a long- To round out your appearance, buy a del (overcoat) or have one made for you. Most country
original model. The large and comfortable distance minivan to Mörön or Dalanzadgad folk wear them and they are great protection against wind, rain and snow, as well as for use as
Toyota Landcruiser–style jeeps are owned by end up flying back. a blanket or ground cloth.
wealthy Mongolians and never used for share Minivan fares are reasonable, costing the Once outfitted, locate a horse or two. You may buy or rent. Despite their vast numbers, horse
purposes (though some travel agencies might equivalent of US$12 to get to Dalanzadgad prices are on the increase. A good horse may cost T300,000 and up. Herdsmen are loath to part
have them for hire, but expect to pay at least (21 hours) from Ulaanbaatar or US$15 to with their well-mannered, quiet horses and may try to sell an oldie without much go. Make
30% more than for a good Russian jeep). Mörön (25 hours). sure the horse walks at a comfortable pace, and load up a packhorse before buying. Also with
On the terrible Mongolian roads, these In the countryside, the post office operates packhorses, extra quiet is good.
jeeps and minivans are an important form of postal vans, which accept passengers. They Renting is a perfectly viable option if you are making a loop, because you will never recoup
transport, and are mandatory when visiting have fixed departure times, normally running your investment when you sell back your horses. A fair price is T5000 to T10,000 per day; if you
more remote attractions. They can typically once a week between an aimag capital and a hire a guide, double that amount.
only travel between 30km/h and 50km/h. The sum capital. The local post office should have On Mongolia’s steppe an open-door policy exists for locals and foreigners alike. If you are
Gobi region generally has the best roads and a list of departure times and fares. in desperate need of food and drink, or would simply like to say hello, you may approach a
here you can average 60km/h. ger. Remember to call out prior to dismounting so the ferocious animal barking at you will be
Hiring a Minivan or Jeep restrained. Break the language barrier with pictures of your family and hometown, and it is
Share Minivan & Jeep The best way to see the countryside of recommended that you offer the family a small gift, such as sweets or horse/car/motorcycle
Share jeeps and minivans are the most com- Mongolia independently is to hire your own magazines.
mon form of public transport in Mongolia. minivan or jeep, which will come with a driver It is not necessary to carry all your foodstuffs from the beginning if you will be passing towns
Private vehicles go from Ulaanbaatar to all and, for a little extra, a guide. If you share the along your journey. Topographic maps are best bought in UB; double-check that marked towns
aimag capitals, major cities and tourist des- costs with others it doesn’t work out to be too have a store, as some may no longer exist in this nomadic culture.
tinations. Less frequent and reliable services expensive. With enough time, camping equip- Rivers are a great source of water, however, the smaller ones are seasonal. Wells will be your
operate between most aimag capitals, but very ment, water and food, and a reliable jeep and other option, though these can also be dry. Ask around. Where there are animals and people,
few minivans go to the sums. driver, you’ll have the time of your life. there is water.
If you rely solely on share vehicles to You can save money by using public Unless you speak Mongolian or Russian, communication will be difficult in the countryside.
get around, you’ll see surprisingly little of transport to major regional gateways – that Lonely Planet’s Mongolian Phrasebook will be invaluable. A majority of Mongolians are literate
and will be able to read the words you are stumbling over.
When the trip ends and you say farewell to your horses, do as the Mongolians do and pluck
THE MINIVAN WAITING GAME some hairs from the mane and tail. Tie them around something to remind you of the freedom
A real problem with share vehicles is that they are privately operated and won’t leave until they you felt in the Land of the Great Blue Sky.
are packed tighter than a sardine tin. The waiting game sometimes has the effect of turning
your hair grey. For more information about travelling on horseback in Mongolia, see Joshua Handler’s website:
In the countryside, most vans just park at the local market and wait for passengers to turn www.stepintoyourselfexpeditions.com.
up, which means that if the van isn’t already mostly full you’ll be waiting around all day for the
seats to fill up, if they ever do.
The process can be agonising. Even after the 11-seat van has 20 or so passengers, the driver is Mörön for Khövsgöl Nuur, Khovd for the Don’t expect to rent a jeep outside of an
will vanish for an hour or two for lunch, or to find more cargo, spare parts and petrol. west, Dalanzadgad for the south Gobi and aimag capital. Villages do have jeeps, but they
One solution is to ask the driver to pick you up at your hotel or the local internet café when Choibalsan for the far east. Then, from these may not be available or running.
they are ready to go, which they usually agree to. This arrangement works out well and allows places, you will be able to rent a jeep fairly Note that when hiring a vehicle in the
you to do something productive (such as sleep or catch up on your emailing) while the other easily, though drivers outside Ulaanbaatar will countryside to take you to another rural city
passengers sweat it out at the market. The waiting time from Ulaanbaatar isn’t as bad, but you have little experience of dealing with tourists. you will have to pay for the return fare because
could still count on two hours or more. You may not find a local English-speaking the driver will have to go back with an empty
guide, so bring one from Ulaanbaatar. van. This does not apply when travelling to
 282 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • M i n i v a n & J e e p lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • M i n i v a n & J e e p 283

Ulaanbaatar as the driver can find passengers Three can sit in the back seat of a Russian
there. The upshot of this is that it will cost jeep, but it may be uncomfortable on longer TAKING A GPS
almost the same to hire a driver to take you trips. Five or six people can ride in a minivan. When you are travelling around the featureless plains of eastern Mongolia, the deserts of the
from, for example, Ulaangom to Mörön as it If you also take a guide, rather than just a Gobi or a tangle of confusing valleys in the west, a Global Positioning System (GPS) can be very
would from Ulaangom to Ulaanbaatar. driver, you can therefore take a maximum of useful in determining where exactly you are, as long as you have a reliable map on which to
In Ulaanbaatar, the best place to start look- three passengers in a jeep, though two would pinpoint your coordinates. We have given GPS coordinates for many hard-to-find places in this
ing for a driver and a guide is at the various be more comfortable. There is usually ample book, plus coordinates for sum (district) and aimag centres (to an accuracy of up to 1km from
guesthouses. These guesthouses will take a room at the back of the jeep and minivan for the town centre). Many places are listed in the table on p284.
commission, but you’ll get a driver and/or backpacks, tents, water and so on. A GPS won’t help you every time, as you’ll still need to know which road to take, even if you
guide who understands the needs of a tour- know the rough direction. Gobi and steppe areas are particularly tricky – except for the main routes
ist. More importantly they know the tourist TRIP PREPARATION there probably won’t be any one road between places. Every few kilometres the track you’re on
routes and can locate hard-to-find attrac- There are several other factors you should will veer off in the wrong direction, requiring constant corrections and zigzagging.
tions such as caves, deer stones and ruined
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
consider when embarking on a jeep or It is always a good idea to ask about road conditions at gers along the way. Often a good-
monasteries. Finding a driver from the jeep minivan tour of Mongolia. Before the trip, looking road will become impassable, running into a river, swamp or wall of mountains; herders
stand or market, and negotiating on your explain your itinerary in detail to the driver can offer good info on the best route to take. If all else fails, you can always rely on Mongolian
own, will be cheaper, but they will probably and make sure they have a map and agree to GPS (Ger Positioning System), which requires following the vague sweep of the ger owner’s hand
be in a hurry to get back home, which won’t the route. For long expeditions, also ensure over the horizon, until you reach the next ger.
work well if you want to take it slow and see your driver has jerry cans, for extra petrol,
the sights. and a water drum. A wide-mouthed plastic
On a long-distance trip, tour operators drum is also very useful for storing food, as Shop as a group when you reach a city or one around the countryside from the capital
will have a per-day charge (usually US$50 boxes will rapidly disintegrate. Resealable town. If you are travelling with strangers, it’s you will have to include expenses for travel,
to US$60) that will probably include petrol. bags are useful for opened bags of sugar, a good idea to keep everyone happy by ro- food and accommodation. In an aimag capi-
This may be more if they throw in camping pasta and so on. Your backpacks will get tating seats so that everyone (including the tal, a guide (if you can find one) costs about
and cooking gear. filthy so it’s a good idea to put them in a guide) has a go in the front seat. Don’t push US$5 per day, plus any expenses. For a pro-
Vehicles that you hire on your own (from a water- and dust-proof bag. the driver or guide too hard; allow them (and fessional guide who is knowledgeable in a
market) usually charge US$35 per day without Drivers from tourist agencies will assume the vehicle) to stop and rest. However, regular specific interest, such as bird-watching, and
petrol. Russian jeeps have terrible fuel econ- that you will feed them along the way. On a and lengthy stops for a chat and a smoke can fluent in your language, the bidding starts at
omy: you’ll need 20L to travel around 100km. longer trip it’s easiest for everyone to cook, add time to the journey. US$20 per day.
Petrol was around T900 per litre at the time of eat and wash up together. If you don’t want Lastly, if you are on a long trip, you’ll find
research. Some drivers may want to charge a to do this, you will have to agree on a fee morale boosted by a trip to a bathhouse (hot HAZARDS
per-kilometre rate; in the countryside this is for the driver’s food or buy them the food water!) in an aimag capital. Another morale Flat tyres are a time-honoured tradition.
around T450. Vehicle hire is more expensive yourself. This shouldn’t cost more than booster is the occasional meal in a decent Insist that your driver bring a spare and a
the further you get from Ulaanbaatar. T4000 per day. guanz. If you are camping a lot then add in tyre-patch kit consisting of rubber patches,
It is vital that you and the driver agree to Experienced drivers will have their own at least one night in a decent hotel to clean up glue, extra tyre valves and a valve tool. Be sure
the terms and conditions – and the odometer Soviet-built petrol stove, though it’s a good and sort out your stuff. the driver has a tyre pump, hydraulic jack and
reading – before you start. Ask about all pos- idea to bring your own stove as a backup, tyre irons. If the driver doesn’t have a useable
sible ‘extras’ such as waiting time, food and and to boil water for tea while the other GUIDES spare tyre, request that they buy one before
accommodation. There are several private stove is cooking dinner. If you are cooking No-one in the countryside speaks anything leaving the city.
bridges and tolls around the countryside (each for a group you’ll need a big cooking pot other than Mongolian and Russian, so a The quickest distance between two points
costing about T500), which are normally paid and a ladle. Everyone should bring their own guide-cum-translator is very handy, and al- is a straight line, and the only thing that could
for by you. If you arrange for a jeep to pick you penknife, cutlery, bowl and torch. Avoid most mandatory. A guide will explain local (but not always) put off a Mongolian jeep
up, or drop you off, agree on a reduced price drinking from the same water bottles as this traditions, help with any hassles with the po- driver from taking a shortcut is a huge moun-
for the empty vehicle travelling one way. spreads viruses around the group. lice, find accommodation, negotiate jeeps, tain range or raging river. If renting a jeep by
explain captions in museums and act as lin- the kilometre, you will welcome a shortcut,
guistic and cultural interpreter. especially to shorten an uncomfortable trip. If
OTAM VANS In Ulaanbaatar you can find guides through you have an experienced driver, allow them to
travel agencies, guesthouses or the bulletin take shortcuts when they feel it is worthwhile,
Mongolia’s unreliable, slow and uncomfortable public transport system has led to the birth of
board at Chez Bernard (p90). In the country- but don’t insist on any – they are the expert.
Open Tour Around Mongolia (OTAM; Map p64; x7015 0159; www.otamecotours.com; Room 504, 5th fl,
side, there is nothing to do but ask – try the The downside of shortcuts is the possibility of
Alyska Bldg, Peace Ave), a private travel company that dispatches vans from Ulaanbaatar to make
hotels and schools. Guides are easier to find breaking down on more isolated roads.
a loop tour of the countryside. With an OTAM ticket you can hop off wherever you like and get
between 15 June and 1 August, when schools Serious mechanical breakdowns are a defi-
back on when the next OTAM van appears (usually two days later). The company has two separate
and universities are on summer break. nite possibility. Should your vehicle break
routes that service the Gobi and northern Mongolia; each costs US$123. It also runs a western
For getting around Ulaanbaatar, a non- down irreparably in a rural area, you’ll be
Mongolia tour (US$280) and a tour to sights near Ulaanbaatar, including Khustain National Park,
professional guide or a student will cost a faced with the task of trying to get back to civi-
Mandshir Khiid and Terelj (US$40).
negotiable US$8 to US$15 per day. To take lisation either on foot (not recommended), by
 284 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • G P S C o o r d i n a t e s Ta b l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • Ta x i 285

hitching, or by whatever means is available. TAXI

GPS COORDINATES TABLE The safest solution is to travel with a small Mongolia claims to have about 49,250km of
The table shows latitude and longitude coordinates for various locations in Mongolia, in degrees, group using two jeeps (or bring a satellite highway – of which only around 1900km is
minutes and decimal minutes (DMM). To convert to degrees, minutes and seconds (DMS) format, phone; see p260). actually paved. Taxis are only useful along
multiply the number after the decimal point (including the decimal point) by 60. The result is A warning: Russian jeeps easily overheat. these paved roads, eg from Ulaanbaatar to
your seconds, which can be rounded to the nearest whole number. The minutes is the number There is no easy solution, but it helps to travel Zuunmod, Terelj, Darkhan, Erdenet and pos-
between the degree symbol and the decimal point. For example: 43°52.598’ DMM is equal to during the early-morning or late-afternoon sibly Kharkhorin. But just as a Humvee is
43°52’36” DMS. hours when temperatures are relatively low. impractical on Hong Kong’s backstreets, so is
Most of Mongolia is grassland, desert and a Hyundai-style taxi on the unpaved steppes.
CENTRAL MONGOLIA Latitude (N) Longitude (E) Ongon..............................45º21.509 113º08.297 Erdentsogt........................46º25.080 100º49.234 mountains. You might think that mountain The general appalling quality of roads around
Arvaikheer........................46º15.941 102º46.724 Shiliin Bogd.......................45º28.350 114º35.349 Galuut...............................46º42.061 100º07.131
Bat-Ölzii...........................46º49.028 102º13.989 Sükhbaatar....................... 46º46.285 113º52.646 Govi-Ugtal.......................... 46º01.916 107º30.377 driving would pose the worst problems, but the countryside means that most travel is by
Battsengel........................ 47º48.157 101º59.040 Sümber.............................47º38.174 118º36.421 Gurj Lamiin Khiid..............43º29.030 103º50.930
Bayan-Öndör................... 46º30.018 104º05.996 Tsagaan Ovoo.................. 48º33.864 113º14.380 Gurvantes.........................43º13.759 101º03.360 forests cause the most trouble of all. This is jeep or Furgon minivan.
Bayan Önjuul................... 46º52.859 105º56.571 Tsenkhermandal................47º44.673 109º03.909 Jargalant.............................47º01.480 99º30.103
because the ground, even on a slope, is often
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
Bayangol..........................45º48.505 103º26.811 Uul Bayan.........................46º30.036 112º20.769 Khamaryn Khiid................44º36.038 110º16.650
Bayantsagaan...................46º45.806
Bogd.................................44º39.971
107º08.709
102º08.777
NORTHERN MONGOLIA Latitude (N) Longitude (E)
Altanbulag........................50º19.225 106º29.392
Khanbogd.........................43º12.000
Khatanbulag....................... 43º08.882
107º11.862
109º08.709
a springy alpine bog, holding huge amounts TRAIN
Burenbayan Ulaan............45º10.276 101º25.989 Amarbayasgalant Khiid..... 49º28.648 105º05.122 Khökhmorit...................... 47º21.248 94º30.446 of water in the decaying grasses, which are The 1810km of railway line is primarily made
Chuluut............................47º32.830 100º13.166 Khövsgöl.......................... 43º36.314 109º39.017
Delgerkhan.......................46º37.097 104º33.051
Arbulag.............................49º54.949
Baruunburen....................... 49º09.753
99º26.537
104º48.686 Khüreemaral.....................46º24.523 98º17.037 instantly compacted under tyres, reducing a up of the Trans-Mongolian Railway, connect-
Eej Khad (Mother Rock)..... 47º18.699
Erdenemandal...................48º31.445
106º58.583
101º22.265
Bayangol...........................48º55.472
Borsog.............................. 50º59.677
106º05.486
100º42.983
Mandakh..........................44º24.122
Mandal-Ovoo...................44º39.100
108º13.851
104º02.880
wildflower meadow to slush. ing China with Russia. (Both the domestic
Erdenesant........................47º19.071
Guchin Us........................ 45º27.866
104º28.937
102º23.726
Bugat..................................
49º02.874 103º40.389 Mandalgov.......................45º46.042
Manlai.................................
44º04.441
106º16.380
106º51.703
Mongolian drivers have one of two reac- and international trains use this same line.)
Bulgan City.......................48º48.722 103º32.213
Gunjiin Süm..................... 48º11.010
Ikh Tamir..........................47º35.221
107º33.377
101º12.413
Chandman-Öndör............ 50º28.436 100º56.378 Nomgon...........................42º50.160
Ondorshil......................... 45º13.585
105º08.983
108º15.223
tions when they get bogged. Some will sit on In addition, there are two spur lines: to the
Chuluut and Ider...............49º10.415 100º40.335
Jargalant.......................... 48º43.716 100º45.120 Darkhan............................49º29.232 105º56.480 Ongiin Khiid..................... 45º20.367 104º00.306 their haunches, have a smoke and then send copper-mining centre of Erdenet (from
Khandgait.........................48º07.066 106º54.296 Orog Nuur.......................... 45º02.692 100º36.314
Khangai............................47º51.553 99º26.126
Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid.....48º47.821
Dashinchinlen................... 47º51.179
103º30.687
104º02.281 Saikhan-Ovoo.................. 45º27.459 103º54.110 word to the nearest farm or town for a trac- Darkhan) and the coal-mining city of
Kharkhorin........................47º11.981
Khashant..........................47º27.034
102º50.527
103º09.708
Dulaankhaan.....................49º55.103 106º11.302 Sainshand.........................44º53.576
Sevrei............................... 43º35.617
110º08.351
102º09.737
tor to come and tow the vehicle out. Other Baganuur (from Ulaanbaatar). Another train
Erdenebulgan...................... 50º06.880 101º35.589
Khotont........................... 47º22.196
Khujirt..............................46º54.225
102º28.746
102º46.545
Erdenet...............................
49º01.855 104º03.316 Shinejist............................44º32.917
Süm Khökh Burd................. 46º09.621
99º17.349
105º45.590
drivers will get out a shovel and start digging; runs weekly from Choibalsan, the capital of
Five Rivers........................ 49º15.475 100º40.385
Khustain National Park.....47º45.459 105º52.418 Gurvanbulag.....................47º44.499 103º30.103 Taihshir.............................46º42.671 96º29.623 you can help by gathering flat stones to place Dornod aimag, to the Russian border.
Mandshir Khiid.................47º45.520 106º59.675 Takhi Research Station......45º32.197 93º39.055
Möngönmorit...................48º12.192 108º28.291
Jiglegiin Am........................51º00.406
Khangal............................ 49º18.810
100º16.003
104º22.629 Tsagaan Agui....................44º42.604 101º10.187 under the wheels (drivers usually try to jack From Ulaanbaatar, daily express trains
Naiman Nuur....................46º31.232 101º50.705
Ögii Nuur (Lake).............. 47º47.344 102º45.828
Khankh.............................51º30.070 100º41.382 Tseel.................................45º33.266
Tsogt................................45º20.813
95º51.223
96º37.166
the tyres out of the mud). travel north to Darkhan, and on to Sükhbaatar
Khar Bukh Balgas..............47º53.198 103º53.513
Ögii Nuur.........................47º40.319 102º33.051 Tsogt-Ovoo......................44º24.906 105º19.406
Khatgal.............................50º26.517 100º09.599
Ölziit..................................
48º05.573 102º32.640 Tsogttsetsii........................43º43.541 105º35.040
Khishig-Öndör..................48º17.678 103º27.086
Ondor Ulaan...................... 48º02.700 100º30.446 Ulaanbadrakh...................43º52.598 110º24.686
Orkhon Khürkhree........... 46º47.234 101º57.694
Khötöl.................................
49º05.486
Khutag-Öndör..................49º22.990
105º34.903
102º41.417 Yolyn Am..........................43º29.332 104º04.000 ROAD DISTANCES (km)
Övgön Khiid......................47º25.561 103º41.686 Mogod..............................48º16.372 102º59.520 Zag...................................46º56.168 99º09.806
Stele of Tonyukuk.............47º41.661 107º28.586 Zamyn-Üüd......................43º42.967 111º54.651
Mörön.............................. 49º38.143 100º09.321
Tariat.................................48º09.574 99º52.982
Orkhon...............................49º08.621 105º24.891 WESTERN MONGOLIA Latitude (N) Longitude (E) Arvaikheer 571
Terelj................................47º59.193 107º27.834
Orkhontuul.......................48º49.202 104º49.920 Altai..................................45º49.115 92º15.497
Tögrög.............................45º32.482 102º59.657
Renchinlkhumbe................. 51º06.504 99º40.234 Altantsögts.........................49º02.700 100º26.057 Baruun-Urt 1561 990
Tövkhön Khiid.................... 47º00.772 102º15.362
Saikhan.............................48º39.448 102º37.851 Batuunturuun................... 49º38.578 94º23.177
Tsakhir...............................49º06.426 99º08.574
Selenge.............................49º26.647 103º58.903 Bulgan (Bayan-Ölgii)........ 46º55.559 91º04.594 Bayankhongor 371 200 1190
Tsenkher.......................... 47º26.909 101º45.648
Shine-Ider..........................48º57.213 99º32.297 Bulgan (Khovd)................... 46º05.486 91º32.571
Tsetseguun Uul................ 47º48.506 107º00.165
Sükhbaatar....................... 50º14.196 106º11.911 Chandmani.......................43º39.100 92º48.411 Bulgan 874 373 878 503
Tsetserleg City..................47º28.561 101º27.282
Teshig...............................49º57.649 102º35.657 Darvi.................................46º56.181 93º37.158
Tsetserleg Soum...............48º53.095 101º14.305
Toilogt..............................50º39.266 100º14.961 Deluun..............................47º51.553 90º44.160 Choibalsan 1656 1085 191 1285 973
Ulaanbaatar......................47º55.056 106º55.007
Tosontsengel.................... 49º28.650 100º53.074 Dörgon.............................48º19.768 92º37.303
Uyanga.............................46º27.431 102º16.731
Tsagaan Uur..................... 50º32.391 101º31.806 Erdeneburen......................48º30.131 91º26.811 Dalanzadgad 948 377 856 577 725 1074
Zaamar.............................48º11.843 104º46.629
Tsagaannuur (Khövsgöl)... 51º21.778 99º21.082 Erdenkhairkhan................... 48º07.228 95º44.229
Züünbayan-Ulaan............ 46º31.176 102º34.971
Tsagaannuur (Selenge).......50º05.835 105º25.989 Khökh Nuur......................47º37.207 97º20.546 Darkhan 1122 596 779 751 248 874 772
Zuunmod......................... 47º42.357 106º56.861
Tsetserleg......................... 49º31.959 97º46.011 Khovd (Uvs)..................... 49º16.720 90º54.720
EASTERN MONGOLIA Latitude (N) Longitude (E) Ulaan Uul......................... 50º40.668 99º13.920 Khovd City.......................... 48º00.430 91º38.474 Khovd 424 995 1985 795 1180 2080 1372 1519
Asgat............................... 46º21.724 113º34.536 Uran Uul...........................48º59.855 102º44.003 Mankhan..........................47º24.557 92º12.617
Baldan Baraivan Khiid.......48º11.910 109º25.840 Züünkharaa...................... 48º51.466 106º27.154 Möst.................................46º41.626 92º48.000 Mandalgov 879 308 613 508 578 741 293 479 1303
Baruun-Urt.......................46º40.884 113º16.825 THE GOBI Latitude (N) Longitude (E) Naranbulag.......................49º23.164 92º34.286 Mörön
Batnorov...........................47º56.952 111º30.103 Altai City.......................... 46º22.388 96º15.164 Nogoonuur.......................49º36.923 90º13.577 (Khövsgöl aimag) 583 679 1231 627 353 1326 1056 601 853 913
Batshireet.........................48º41.405 110º11.062 Altai Soum........................44º37.010 94º55.131 Ölgii (Uvs).......................... 49º01.306 92º00.411
Bayan Tumen..................... 48º03.076 114º22.252 Altanshiree....................... 45º32.046 110º27.017 Ölgii City..........................48º58.070 89º58.028 Ölgii 635 1206 2196 1006 1344 2291 1583 1582 211 1314 991
Bayan Uul........................... 49º07.550 112º42.809 Baatsagaan....................... 45º33.266 99º26.188 Öndörkhangai.................. 49º15.849 94º51.154
Bayandun.........................49º15.276 113º21.565 Baga Gazryn Chuluu.........46º13.827 106º04.192 Otgon...............................47º12.488 97º36.391 Öndörkhaan 1332 761 229 961 649 324 710 550 1756 417 1002 1967
Binder.............................. 48º36.967 110º36.400 Bayan Dalai.......................43º27.898 103º30.763 Sagsai...............................48º54.688 89º39.429
Chinggis Statue.................. 47º06.157 109º09.356 Bayan-Ovoo..................... 42º58.607 106º06.994 Telmen............................. 48º38.197 97º09.900 Sainshand 1234 663 340 863 781 531 516 682 1658 355 1134 1869 302
Choibalsan.........................48º04.147 114º31.404 Bayan-Uul.........................46º59.129 95º11.863 Tes....................................49º39.013 95º49.029
Chuluunkhoroot...............49º52.163 115º43.406 Bayanbulag.......................46º48.223 98º06.189 Tolbo................................48º24.557 90º16.457 Sükhbaatar 1214 688 871 830 340 966 864 92 1612 571 693 1823 642 774
Dadal..................................
49º01.291 111º37.598 Bayangovi.........................44º44.017 100º23.476 Tolbo Nuur.......................48º35.320 90º04.536
Dashbalbar.......................49º32.794 114º24.720 Bayankhongor...................46º11.637 100º43.115 Tosontsengel.................... 48º45.286 98º05.992 Tsetserleg 502 266 1013 218 289 1108 643 537 438 500 413 1220 784 855 629
Delgerkhaan.................... 47º10.735 109º11.423 Bayanlig............................44º32.555 100º49.809 Tsagaanchuluut................... 47º06.531 96º39.497
Erdenetsagaan..................45º54.165 115º22.149 Bayanzag............................ 44º08.311 103º43.667 Tsagaankhairkhan.............49º24.209 94º13.440 Ulaanbaatar 1001 430 560 630 326 655 553 219 1425 260 671 1636 331 463 311 430
Galshar.............................46º13.324 110º50.606 Biger.................................45º42.583 97º10.354 Tsagaannuur.....................49º31.437 89º46.697
Khalkhgol.........................47º59.565 118º05.760 Bömbogor........................ 46º12.279 99º37.234 Tsengel.............................48º57.213 89º09.257 Ulaangom 662 1188 1896 988 1033 991 1585 1281 238 1383 680 311 1667 1738 1373 883 1336
Khalzan............................46º10.019 112º57.119 Böön Tsagaan Nuur.......... 45º37.114 99º15.350 Tsenkheriin Agui...............47º20.828 91º57.225
Kherlen Bar Khot................ 48º03.287 113º21.865 Bugat................................45º33.440 94º20.571 Tüdevtei........................... 48º59.390 96º32.229 Uliastai 218 659 1544 497 807 1639 1074 989 465 967 388 676 1315 1355 1147 531 984 529
Khökh Nuur (Blue Lake).....48º01.150 108º56.450 Bulgan................................44º05.312 103º32.297 Ulaangom.........................49º58.764 92º04.028
(Gov-Altai aimag)
Altai

Arvaikheer

Baruun-Urt

Bayankhongor

Bulgan

Choibalsan

Dalanzadgad

Darkhan

Khovd

Mandalgov

Mörön
(Khövsgöl aimag)

Ölgii

Öndörkhaan

Sainshand

Sükhbaatar

Tsetserleg

Ulaanbaatar

Ulaangom
Matad..............................46º57.007 115º16.008 Buutsagaan.......................46º10.411 98º41.637 Ulaankhus........................... 49º02.525 89º26.929
Mönkh Khaan.................. 46º58.163 112º03.418 Choir................................ 45º47.994 109º18.462 Uliastai..............................47º44.591 96º50.582
Norovlin...........................48º41.449 111º59.596 Dalanzadgad.................... 43º34.355 104º25.673 Urgamal............................48º30.653 94º16.046
Öglöchiin Kherem.............48º24.443 110º11.812 Delger.............................. 46º21.074 97º22.011 Üüreg Nuur........................50º05.236 91º04.587
Ömnödelger.....................47º53.469 109º49.166 Delgerekh.........................45º48.157 111º12.823 Zavkhan (Uvs).................. 48º49.463 93º06.103
Öndörkhaan.....................47º19.416 110º39.775 Erdenedalai......................... 46º00.418 104º56.996 Zavkhanmandal.................48º19.071 95º06.789
 © Lonely Planet Publications
286 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T r a i n lonelyplanet.com

or Erdenet. To the south, there are daily direct bunk and there is the option of getting a set
trains from Ulaanbaatar to Zamyn-Üüd, via of sheets and a blanket (T900). Upgrades are
Choir and Sainshand. There are also trains available to soft seat if you decide you can’t
terminating at Choir twice a week. You stand the hard seats.
can’t use the Trans-Mongolian Railway for Soft seats are only a little bit softer, but the
domestic transport. conditions are much better: the price differ-
When travelling in hard-seat class (see ence (usually at least double the price of the
below), you will almost certainly have to hard seat) is prohibitive for most Mongolians.
fight to get a seat. If you’re not travelling The soft-seat carriages are divided into com-
alone, one of you can scramble on board and partments with four beds in each. You are
find seats and the other can bring the lug- given an assigned bed, and will be able to
gage on board. Young boys and girls usually sleep, assuming, of course, that your com-
travel around the train selling bread and fizzy partment mates aren’t rip-roaring drunk and
TRANSPORT

drinks. Otherwise, there is nothing to eat or noisy. If you travel at night, clean sheets are
drink on local trains. provided for about T900, which is a wise in-
vestment since some of the quilts smell like
Classes mutton. Compared with hard-seat class, it’s
There are usually three classes on domestic the lap of luxury, and worth paying extra.
passenger trains: hard seat, hard sleeper and If you’re travelling from Ulaanbaatar, it is
soft seat. In hard-seat class, the seats are actu- important to book a soft seat well in advance –
ally padded bunks but there are no assigned this can be done up to 10 days before depar-
bunks nor any limit to the amount of tickets ture. There may be a small booking fee. In
sold, so the carriages are always crowded and general, booking ahead is a good idea for any
dirty. A hard sleeper (platzkartnuu) looks just class, though there will always be hard-seat
like the hard seat but everyone gets their own tickets available.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
287

Health
of contact lenses and glasses, and take your
CONTENTS optical prescription with you. Bring medica-
tions in their original, clearly labelled con-
Before You Go 287 tainers. A signed and dated letter from your
Insurance 287 physician describing your medical conditions
Recommended Vaccinations 287 and medications, including generic names,
Internet Resources 288 is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or
Further Reading 288 needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter
In Transit 288 documenting their medical necessity.
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 288 Western medicine can be in short supply in
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 288 Mongolia. Most medicine comes from China
In Mongolia 289 and Russia and the labels won’t be in English,
Availability & Cost of Health Care 289 so bring whatever you think you might need
Infectious Diseases 289 from home. Take extra supplies of prescribed
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 291 medicine and divide it into separate pieces
Environmental Hazards 291 of luggage; that way if one piece goes astray,
Traditional Medicine 292 you’ll still have a back-up supply.
Mongolia’s dry, cold climate and sparse
human habitation means there are few of INSURANCE
the infectious diseases that plague tropical If your health insurance does not cover

HEALTH
countries in Asia. The rough-and-tumble you for medical expenses abroad, consider
landscape and lifestyle, however, presents supplemental insurance. (Check the Lonely
challenges of its own. Injuries sustained from Planet website at www.lonelyplanet.com/
falling off a horse are common in the summer travel_services for more information.)
season. In winter, the biggest threats are the While you may prefer a policy that pays
flu and pneumonia, which spread like wildfire hospital bills on the spot, rather than pay-
in November. ing first and sending in documents later, in
The biggest risk to your health in Mongolia the only place that might accept
Mongolia may be the hospitals. The this is the SOS Medica clinic (see p66).
number of doctors is chronically low and Declare any existing medical conditions
the standard of medical training is patchy to the insurance company; if your problem
at best, and often very poor. If you do be- is pre-existing the company will not cover
come seriously ill in Mongolia, your local you if it is not declared. You may require
embassy can provide details of Western extra cover for adventurous activities – make
doctors. Emergencies require evacuation sure you are covered for a fall if you plan on
to Seoul or Beijing. If in the countryside, riding a horse or a motorbike. If you are un-
make a beeline for Ulaanbaatar to have your insured, emergency evacuation is expensive,
ailment diagnosed. with bills over US$100,000 not uncommon.
The following advice is a general guide
only; be sure to seek the advice of a doctor RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
trained in travel medicine. The World Health Organization (WHO; www.who.int)
recommends that all travellers be covered for
diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella
BEFORE YOU GO and polio, regardless of their destination. As
most vaccines don’t produce immunity until
Prevention is the key to staying healthy at least two weeks after they’re given, visit
while abroad. A little planning before depar- a physician at least six weeks before depar-
ture, particularly for pre-existing illnesses, ture. Specialised travel-medicine clinics are
will save trouble later. See your dentist be- your best source of information; they stock
fore going on a long trip, carry a spare pair vaccines and will be able to give specific
 288 I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N M O N G O L I A • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re 289

recommendations for you and your trip. (otherwise known as the yellow booklet),
This is especially important for children which will list all of the vaccinations you REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
and pregnant women. Ask your doctor for have received, and take it with you. The WHO recommends the following vaccinations for travel to Mongolia:
an International Certificate of Vaccination Adult Diphtheria & Tetanus Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects include
INTERNET RESOURCES sore arm and fever.
There is a wealth of travel health advice on Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another
MEDICAL KIT CHECK LIST the internet. For further information, the 20 years’ protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur with some people.
Following is a list of items you should con- Lonely Planet website at www.lonelyplanet Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers, it provides lifetime protection for 95% of people. Immuni-
sider including in your medical kit – consult .com is a good place to start. The WHO sation is given as three doses over six months, though a rapid schedule is also available, as is a combined vaccination
your pharmacist for brands available in your publishes a superb book called International for Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache and sore arm.
country. Travel & Health, which is revised annually Measles, Mumps & Rubella (MMR) Two doses of MMR are recommended unless you have had the diseases.
and is available online at no cost at www Occasionally a rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many young adults need a booster.
„ Antibacterial cream (eg Muciprocin)
.who.int/ith. Another website of general in- Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for
„ Antibiotics (prescription only) – for terest is MD Travel Health at www.mdtravel two to three years and comes as a single dose. Tablets are also available, although the injection is usually recom-
travel well ‘off the beaten track’ carry health.com, which provides complete travel mended as it has fewer side effects. A sore arm and fever may occur.
the prescription with you in case you health recommendations for every country Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox discuss this vaccination with your doctor.
need it refilled and is updated daily.
„ Antifungal cream or powder (eg Clot- The following are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) or those at
rimazole) – for fungal skin infections FURTHER READING special risk:
and thrush Lonely Planet’s Healthy Travel Asia & India Influenza A single jab lasts one year and is recommended for those over 65 years of age or with underlying medi-
is a handy pocket size and packed with cal conditions such as heart or lung disease.
„ Antinausea medication
useful information including pre-trip plan- Japanese B Encephalitis Involves a series of three injections with a booster after two years. Recommended if
(eg Prochlorperazine)
ning, emergency first aid, immunisation and spending more than one month in rural areas in the summer months.
„ Antiseptic (such as povidone-iodine) – disease information, and what to do if you Pneumonia A single injection with a booster after five years is recommended for all travellers over 65 years of age
for cuts and grazes get sick on the road. Other recommended or with underlying medical conditions that compromise immunity, such as heart or lung disease, cancer or HIV.
HEALTH

HEALTH
„ Aspirin or paracetamol (acetaminophen references include Traveller’s Health by Dr Rabies Three injections are required. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are
in the USA) – for pain or fever Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr rare – occasionally headache and sore arm.
Deborah Mills (www.travellingwell.com.au). Tuberculosis (TB) A complex issue. High-risk adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB
„ Bandages, Band-Aids (plasters) and
other wound dressings
Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children is useful skin test before and after travel, rather than a vaccination. Only one vaccine is given in a lifetime. Children under five
for families. spending more than three months in China and/or Mongolia should be vaccinated.
„ Calamine lotion, sting-relief spray or
aloe vera – to ease irritation from sun-
burn and insect bites or stings IN TRANSIT meals. Upon arrival, get exposure to natu-
ral sunlight and readjust your schedule (for
scription. See p66 for more details. Health
services in the countryside are abysmal or
„ Cold and flu tablets, throat lozenges
and nasal decongestant DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible. nonexistent. Taking very small children to
Blood clots may form in the legs during Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate the countryside is therefore risky. Female
„ Insect repellent (DEET-based)
plane flights, chiefly because of prolonged (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, travellers will need to take pads and tam-
„ Loperamide or diphenoxylate – ‘block- immobility. The longer the flight, the greater Bonine) are usually the first choice for pons with them on a trip as these won’t be
ers’ for diarrhoea the risk. The chief symptom of DVT is treating motion sickness. A herbal alterna- available outside the main cities.
„ Multivitamins – consider for long trips, swelling or pain of the foot, ankle, or calf, tive is ginger.
when dietary vitamin intake may be usually but not always on just one side. INFECTIOUS DISEASES
When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it Brucellosis
inadequate
„ Rehydration mixture (eg Gastrolyte) – to
may cause chest pain and breathing difficul- IN MONGOLIA The UN Food & Agricultural Organization
(FAO) reports that Mongolia is a high-risk
prevent dehydration, which may occur ties. Travellers with any of these symptoms
during bouts of diarrhoea (particularly should immediately seek medical attention. AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE area for brucellosis. This is a disease of cattle
important when travelling with children) To prevent the development of DVT Health care is readily available in Ulaan- yaks, camels and sheep but it can also affect
on long flights you should walk regularly baatar, but choose your hospital and doctor humans. The most likely way for humans to
„ Scissors, tweezers and a thermometer – about the cabin, contract the leg muscles carefully. Ordinary Mongolians won’t contract this disease is by drinking unboiled
note that mercury thermometers are while sitting, drink plenty of fluids and know the best place to go, but a reputable milk or eating home-made cheese. People
prohibited by airlines avoid alcohol. travel agency or top-end hotel might. The with open cuts on their hands who handle
„ Sunscreen, lip balm and eye drops best advice will come from your embassy. freshly killed meat can also be infected.
„ Water purification tablets or iodine JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS Consultations cost around US$5, although In humans, brucellosis causes severe
(iodine is not to be used by pregnant To avoid jet lag (common when crossing SOS Medica, a reliable clinic in Ulaanbaatar headaches, joint and muscle pains, fever and
women or people with thyroid problems) more than five time zones) try to drink with Western doctors, charges around $200. fatigue. There may be diarrhoea and, later,
plenty of nonalchoholic fluids and eat light Most basic drugs are available without a pre- constipation. The onset of the symptoms
 290 I N M O N G O L I A • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N M O N G O L I A • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a 291

can occur from five days to several months Hepatitis A is transmitted by contaminated
after exposure, with the average time being food and drinking water. You should seek DRINKING WATER
two weeks. medical advice, but there is not much you
„ Bottled water is generally safe – check that the seal is intact at purchase.
Most patients recover in two or three can do apart from resting, drinking lots of
weeks, but people can get chronic brucellosis, fluids, eating lightly and avoiding fatty foods. „ Tap water in Ulaanbaatar and other cities probably won’t make you sick but because of
which recurs sporadically for months or years Hepatitis E is transmitted in the same way as antiquated plumbing the water may contain traces of metals which won’t be good for your
and can cause long-term health problems. hepatitis A; it can be particularly serious in long-term health.
Fatalities are rare but possible. pregnant women. „ Be cautious about drinking from streams and lakes as they are easily polluted by livestock.
Brucellosis is a serious disease which re- Hepatitis B is endemic in Mongolia. It is Water is usually OK if you can get it high up in the mountains, near the source. If in doubt,
quires blood tests to make the diagnosis. spread through contact with infected blood, boil your water.
If you think you may have contracted the blood products or body fluids. The symptoms
„ The best chemical purifier is iodine. It should not be used by pregnant women or those with
disease seek medical attention, preferably of hepatitis B may be more severe than type A
thyroid problems.
outside Mongolia. and the disease can lead to long-term prob-
lems such as chronic liver damage, liver cancer „ Water filters should filter out viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical barrier such as iodine
Bubonic Plague or long-term carrier state. Hepatitis C and D and a small pore size (eg less than four microns).
This disease (which wiped out one-third of are spread in the same way as hepatitis B and
Europe during the Middle Ages) makes an can also lead to long-term complications.
make yogurt or cheese also kills the bacilli. ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
appearance in remote parts of Mongolia in There are vaccines against hepatitis A and
Travellers are usually not at great risk as close Altitude Sickness
late summer. Almost 90% of reported cases B, but there are currently no vaccines against
household contact with an infected person is Except in rare cases, only mountaineers will
occur in August and September. the other types of hepatitis.
usually required before the disease is passed experience altitude sickness in Mongolia.
The disease (also known as the Black
on. You may need to have a TB test before you Mild symptoms include headache, lethargy,
Plague) is normally carried by marmots, Rabies travel as this can help diagnose the disease
squirrels and rats and can be transmitted to In the Mongolian countryside, family dogs dizziness, difficulty sleeping and loss of ap-
later if you become ill. petite. Treat mild symptoms by resting at the
humans by bites from fleas that make their are often vicious and can be rabid; it is their
home on the infected animals. It can also saliva that is infectious. Any bite, scratch or same altitude until recovery – usually a day
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
HEALTH

or two. Paracetamol or aspirin can be taken

HEALTH
be passed from human to human by cough- even a lick from an animal should be cleaned
ing. The symptoms are fever and enlarged immediately and thoroughly. Scrub with soap To prevent diarrhoea, avoid tap water un- for headaches. If symptoms persist or become
lymph nodes. The untreated disease has a and running water, and then apply alcohol less it has been boiled, filtered or chemically worse, however, immediate descent is neces-
60% death rate, but if you get to a doctor it or iodine solution. Medical help should be disinfected (with iodine tablets), and steer sary; even 500m can help.
can be quickly treated. The best drug is the sought promptly to receive a course of injec- clear of ice. Only eat fresh fruits or vegeta-
antibiotic streptomycin, which must be in- tions to prevent the onset of the symptoms bles if cooked or peeled, and be wary of dairy Heatstroke
jected intramuscularly, but it is not available and death. The incubation period for rabies products that might contain unpasteurised This serious, occasionally fatal, condition
in Mongolia. Tetracycline is another drug that depends on where you’re bitten. On the head, milk. Eat food that is hot through and avoid can occur if the body’s heat-regulating
may be used. face or neck it’s as little as 10 days, whereas buffet-style meals. mechanism breaks down and the body tem-
During an outbreak, travel to infected areas on the legs it’s 60 days. If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink perature rises to dangerous levels. Long, con-
is prohibited, which can greatly affect over- plenty of nonalcoholic fluids, preferably an tinuous exposure to high temperatures and
land travel. All trains, buses and cars travelling Sexually Transmitted Diseases (STDs) oral rehydration solution (eg Dioralyte). A insufficient fluids can leave you vulnerable
into Ulaanbaatar from infected areas are also The most common STDs in Mongolia include few loose stools don’t require treatment, but to heatstroke.
thoroughly checked when an outbreak of the herpes, syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. if you start having more than four or five The symptoms are feeling unwell, not
plague has been reported, and vehicles are People carrying these diseases often have a day, you should start taking an antibiotic sweating very much (or at all) and a high
sprayed with disinfectant. no signs of infection. Condoms will prevent (usually a quinolone drug) and an antidiar- body temperature. Where sweating has
gonorrhoea and chlamydia but not syphilis rhoeal agent (such as Loperamide). If diar- ceased, the skin becomes flushed and red.
Hepatitis or herpes. If after any sexual encounter you rhoea is bloody, persists for more than 72 Victims can become confused, aggressive
This is a general term for inflammation of develop any rash, lumps, discharge or pain hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking, or delirious. Get victims out of the sun, re-
the liver. It is a common disease worldwide. when passing urine seek immediate medical chills or severe abdominal pain you should move their clothing and cover them with a
The symptoms are similar in all forms of attention. If you have been sexually active seek medical attention. wet sheet or towel and fan continually. Give
the illness, and include fever, chills, head- during your travels, have an STD check upon Giardiasis is a parasite that is relatively fluids if they are conscious.
ache, fatigue, aches and pains and feelings your return. common in travellers. Symptoms include
of weakness, followed by loss of appetite, nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and in- Hypothermia
nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, dark Tuberculosis (TB) termittent diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often In a country where temperatures can plum-
urine, light-coloured faeces, jaundiced (yel- TB is a bacterial infection usually transmitted attributed solely to giardiasis, but may not be met to -40°C, cold is something you should
low) skin and yellowing of the whites of the from person to person by coughing but which specific to giardiasis. The parasite will eventu- take seriously. If you are trekking at high
eyes. People who have hepatitis should avoid may be transmitted through consumption of ally go away if left untreated, but this can take altitudes or simply taking a long bus trip
alcohol for some time after the illness, as the unpasteurised milk. Milk that has been boiled months. The treatment of choice is tinidazole; across the country, particularly at night, be
liver needs time to recover. is safe to drink, and the souring of milk to metronidazole is a second option. especially prepared. Even in the lowlands,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
292 I N M O N G O L I A • • T r a d i t i o n a l M e d i c i n e lonelyplanet.com

sudden winds from the north can send the snakes may be present. Don’t put your hands
temperature plummeting. into holes and crevices, and be careful when
Hypothermia occurs when the body loses collecting firewood.
heat faster than it can produce it and the Bedbugs live in various places, but par-
core temperature of the body falls. It is best ticularly in dirty mattresses and bedding,
to dress in layers; silk, wool and some of the evidenced by spots of blood on bedclothes or
new artificial fibres are all good insulting on the wall. Bedbugs leave itchy bites in neat
materials. A hat is important, as a lot of heat rows. Calamine lotion or a sting-relief spray
is lost through the head. A strong, water- may help. All lice cause itching and discom-
proof outer layer is essential (and a ‘space’ fort. They make themselves at home in your
blanket for emergencies if trekking). Carry hair, your clothing, or in your pubic hair. You
basic supplies, including food containing catch lice through direct contact with infected
simple sugars to generate heat quickly and people or by sharing combs, clothing and the
fluid to drink. like. Powder or shampoo treatment will kill
the lice and infected clothing should then be
Bites & Stings washed in very hot, soapy water and left in
Bee and wasp stings are usually painful rather the sun to dry.
than dangerous. Calamine lotion or sting-
relief spray will give relief and ice packs will TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
reduce the pain and swelling. However, people Traditional medicine has made a comeback
who are allergic to bees and wasps may suf- in Mongolia, after suppression during com-
fer severe breathing difficulties and require munism. Medicine often involves the use of
urgent medical care. native herbs, ground-up rock or bone, and
Mongolia has four species of venomous even the swallowing of prayers written on tiny
snakes: the Halys viper (agkistrodon halys), pieces of paper. Lamas are often employed
HEALTH

common European viper or adder (vipera to read prayers for the sick. Traditional
berus), Orsini’s viper (vipera ursine) and the medicine here is based on both Chinese and
small taphrometaphon lineolatum. To mini- Tibetan practices. In Ulaanbaatar, there are
mise your chances of being bitten always traditional-medicine clinics at the Bakula
wear boots, socks and long trousers where Rinpoche Süm (see p76).

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
293

Language
word stress. If all vowels in a word are short,
the first will take the stress and the rest will
CONTENTS become ‘neutral’ (as the ‘a’ in ‘ago’). In
words with a long vowel, stress falls on that
Accommodation 293 vowel and any short vowels in the word will
Conversation & Essentials 294 become neutral. If there’s more than one
Directions 295 long vowel the stress will generally fall on
Emergencies 296
the second-last syllable.
Language Difficulties 296
If you’d like a more comprehensive guide
Numbers 296
to the language, pick up a copy of Lonely
Shopping & Services 296
Planet’s Mongolian Phrasebook.
Transport 297
ACCOMMODATION
Can you recommend a good hotel?
Mongolian is a member of the Ural-Altaic Та сайн зочид буудал зааж өгнө үү?
family of languages, which includes Finn- ta sain zo·chid buu·dal zaaj ög·nö üü?
ish, Hungarian, Turkish, Kazakh, Usbek Can you show me on the map?
and Korean. The traditional Mongolian Та газрын зураг дээр зааж өгнө үү?
script looks like Arabic turned 45 degrees, ta gaz·ryn zu·rag deer zaaj ög·nö üü?
and is still used by the Mongolians living in Do you have any rooms available?
China (Inner Mongolia, parts of Xinjiang, Танайд сул өрөө байна уу?
Qinhai, Liaoning and Jilin). In 1944 the ta·naid sul ö·röö bai·na uu?
Russian Cyrillic alphabet was adopted, with I’d like a single room.
the two additional characters, ө and ү. It Би нэг хүний өрөө авмаар байна.
remains in use today in Mongolia and also bi neg khü·nii ö·röö av·maar bai·na
in two autonomous republics of Russia: I’d like a double room.
Buryatia and Kalmykia. Би хоёр хүний өрөө авмаар байна.
Mongolian also has a Romanised form, bi kho·yor khü·nii ö·röö av·maar bai·na
though the 35 Cyrillic characters give a bet- What’s the price per night/week?
ter representation of Mongolian sounds Энэ өрөө хоногт/долоо хоногт ямар
than the 26 of the Roman alphabet. Partly үнэтэй вэ?
a result of Russian influence, different ene ö·röö kho·nogt/do·loo kho·nogt ya·mar
Romanisation schemes have been used, and ün·tei ve?

LANGUAGE
this has caused widespread confusion. A Can I see the room?
loose standard was adopted in 1987, so the Би энэ өрөөг үзэж болох уу?
capital city previously written as ‘Ulan bi e·ne ö·röög ü·zej bo·lokh uu?
Bator’ (transliterated Russian spelling), is Are there any others?
now Ulaanbaatar. Өөр өрөө байна уу?
Mongolian pronunciation is not easy. In öör ö·röö bai·na uu?
the words of travel writer Tim Severin, the
Mongolian language is ‘...like two cats SIX ESSENTIAL PHRASES
coughing and spitting at each other until
Cynics say that the six most widely heard
one finally throws up’. One particular word,
phrases in Mongolia are medehgui (don’t
which conveys agreement (rather like nod-
know), baikhgui (don’t have), chadakhui,
ding one’s head) is little more than a sharp,
(can’t do) magadgui (maybe), margaash (to-
guttural intake of breath, as if you were morrow) and za, which roughly translates
having difficulty breathing. to, well, ‘za’. Za is a catch-all phrase, said at
It’s important to give double vowels a the conclusion of a statement, meaning
long pronunciation, as getting it wrong can something akin to ‘well ...’, ‘so then ...’ or
affect meaning. Syllables marked in italics in ‘ok’, and is a fiendishly addictive word.
the following words and phrases represent
 294 L A N G UA G E • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • D i re c t i o n s 295

What’s new? The Herder’s Domain donkey илжиг il·jig

THE MONGOLIAN CYRILLIC ALPHABET Сонин сайхан so·nin sai·khan enclosure малын хашаа ma·lyn kha·shaa
We’d like to see inside a herder’s ger.
Аа a as the ‘u’ in ‘but’ юу байна? yu bai·na? Бид малчны гэрт орж үзэх гэсэн юм. goat ямаа ya·maa
Гг g as in ‘get’ Nothing really. bid malch·ny gert orj ü·zekh ge·sen yum herding мал аж ахуй mal aj ak·hui
Ёё yo as in ‘yonder’ Тайван сайхан. tai·van sai·khan How long will it take to get there? (literally: cattle breeding)
Ии i as in ‘tin’ (literally: It’s peaceful.) Тэнд хүрэхэд хир удах вэ? horse морь mo·ri
Лл l as in ‘lamp’ Goodbye. tend khü·re·khed khir u·dakh ve? pig гахай ga·khai
Оо o as in ‘hot’ Баяртай. ba·yar·tai Can we walk there? reindeer цаа буга tsaa bu·ga
Рр r as in ‘rub’ Бид явган явж болох уу? sheep хонь kho·ni
Уу u as in ‘rude’ bid yav·gan yavj bo·lokh uu? summer camp зуслан zus·lan
Yes. Тийм. tiim
Хх kh as the ‘ch’ in Scottish loch Please hold the dogs! yak сарлаг sar·lag
No. Үгүй. ü·güi
Шш sh as in ‘shoe’ Нохой хогио!
Ыы y as the ‘i’ in ‘ill’
Thanks. Баярлалаа. ba·yar·la·laa DIRECTIONS
Excuse me. Уучлаарай. uuch·laa·rai nok·hoi kho·ri·o!
Юю yu as the ‘yo’ in ‘yoyo’ We’d like to drink some airag. How can I get to ...?
yü long, as the word ‘you’ Бид айраг уух гэсэн юм. ... руу би яаж очих вэ?
Бб b as in ‘but’ I’m sorry, what did you say? ... ruu bi yaj o·chikh ve?
bid ai·rag uukh ge·sen yum
Дд d as in ‘dog’ Уучлаарай, та юу гэж хэлсэн, бэ? Is it far?
Жж j as in ‘jewel’ uuch·laa·rai ta yu gej khel·sen be? Хир хол вэ?
If you’re visiting a family, especially in the
Йй i as in ‘tin’ What’s your name? country, having agreed that everybody’s khir khol ve?
Мм m as in ‘mat’ Таны нэрийг хэн гэдэг вэ? fine, you should proceed to asking about Do you have a (town) map?
Өө ö long, as the ‘u’ in ‘fur’ ta·ny ne·riig khen ge·deg ve? family members and livestock and only Танайд (хотын) зураг байна уу?
Сс s as in ‘sun’ My name is ... then to more general matters: ta·naid (kho·tyn) zu·rag bai·na uu?
Үү ü long, as the ‘o’ in ‘who’ Миний нэрийг ... гэдэг.
Цц ts as in ‘cats’ mi·nii ne·riig ... ge·deg How’s your family? What ... is this?
Щщ shch as the ‘shch’ in ‘fresh chips What country are you from? Танай гэр бүлийнхэн сайн уу? Энэ ямар ... вэ? e·ne ya·mar ... ve?
Ьь * ‘soft sign’ (see below) Та аль улсаас ирсэн бэ? ta·nai ger bü·liin·hen sain uu? square
Яя ya as in ‘yard’ ta a·li ul·saas ir·sen be? I hope your animals are fattening up nicely. талбай tal·bai
Вв v as in ‘van’ I’m from ... Мал сүрэг тарган тавтай юү? street
Ее ye as in ‘yes’ Би ... улсаас ирсэн. mal sü·reg tar·gan tav·tai yü? гудамж gu·damj
yö as the ‘yea’ in ‘yearn’
bi ... ul·saas ir·sen Are you very busy? suburb
Зз z as the ‘ds’ in ‘suds’
Та ажил ихтэй байна уу? дүүрэг düü·reg
How old are you?
Кк k as in ‘kit’ municipality
Та хэдэн настай вэ? ta a·jil ikh·tei bai·na uu?
хотын захиргаа
Нн n as in ‘neat’
I’m very busy. kho·tyn za·khir·gaa
Пп p as in ‘pat’
ta khe·den nas·tai ve?
I’m ... years old. Би тун завгүй байна.
Тт t as in ‘tin’ SIGNS
Би ... настай. bi tun zav·güi bai·na
Фф f as in ‘five’
Чч ch as in ‘chat’ bi ... nas·tai Орох Хаалга Entrance
тогоо
LANGUAGE

cooking pot

LANGUAGE
Are you married? to·goo Гарах Хаалга Exit
Ъъ * ‘hard sign’ (see below)
Та гэр бүлтэй юү? cowdung box араг a·rag Орж ÿолохгүй No Entry
Ээ e as in ‘den’
ta ger bül·tei yü? door хаалга khaal·ga Гарч ÿолохгүй No Exit
felt material эсгий es·gii Эмэгтэйчүүдийн Ladies
* The letters ь and ъ never occur alone, but No, I’m not.
simply affect the pronunciation of the previ- Үгүй, би гэр бүлгүй.
felt roof cover эсгий дээвэр es·gii dee·ver Эрэгтэйчүүдийн Gentlemen
ous letter – ь makes the preceding sound soft
ger гэр ger Хүнгүй Vacant
ü·güi bi ger bul·güi
(the consonant before it is pronounced as if airag bag хөхүүр khö·khüür Захиалгатай Reserved
Yes, I’m married. smoke-hole өрх örkh
there’s a very short ‘y’ after it), while ъ makes Тийм, би гэр бүлтэй. Касс Cashier
the previous sound hard (it prevents it being cover in a ger Лавлах Information
tiim bi ger bül·tei stove зуух zuukh
pronounced as if there’s a ‘y’ after it). Do you have any children? Шуудан Post
support post багана ba·ga·na Такси Taxi
Та хүүхэдтэй юү? wooden frame тооно too·no Хаалттай Closed
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS ta khüü·hed·tei yü? for flue in a ger Анхаар Caution
Hello. Can I take photographs? wooden lattice хана kha·na Засвартай Under Repair
Cайн байна уу? sain bai·na uu? Зураг авч болох уу? of a ger Тамхи Татахыг No Smoking
(literally: How are you?) zu·rag avch bo·lokh uu? Хориглоно
Fine. How are you? May I take your photograph? camel тэмээ te·mee Зураг Авахыг No Photography
Сайн. Та сайн sain ta sain bai·na uu? Би таны зургийг авч болох уу? chicken тахиа ta·khia Хориглоно
байна уу? bi ta·ny zur·giig avch bo·lokh uu? cow үнээ ü·nee
 © Lonely Planet Publications
296 L A N G UA G E • • L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s p o r t 297

Please point to the phrase in the book. market Can I walk there?
EMERGENCIES Та энэ хэллэгийг номон дээр зааж өгнө уу? зах zakh Тийшээ явгaн очиж болох уу?
Help! Туслаарай! tus·laa·rai! ta e·ne khel·le·giig no·mon deer zaaj ög·nö uu? post office tii·shee yav·gan o·chij bo·lokh uu?
Stop! Зогс! zogs! I understand. шуудан shuu·dan
Би ойлголоо. public bathhouse What times does ... leave/arrive?
Call ...! bi oil·go·loo нийтийн халуун nii·tiin kha·luun ... хэдэн цагт явдаг/ирдэг вэ?
... дуудаарай! ... duu·daa·rai! I don’t understand. усны газар us·ny ga·zar ... khe·den tsagt yav·dag/ir·deg ve?
Би ойлгохгүй байна.
an ambulance the bus
bi oil·gokh·güi bai·na When will it open/close?
түргэн тусламж tür·gen tus·lamj автобус av·to·bus
a doctor Хэзээ (онгойх/хаах) вэ?
NUMBERS the trolley-bus
эмч emch khe·zee on·(goikh/khaakh) ve?
0 тэг teg I’d like to change some money. троллейбус trol·lei·bus
the police 1 нэг neg the train
цагдаа tsag·daa Би мөнгө солих гэсэн юм.
2 хоёр kho·yor bi möng·go so·likh ge·sen yum галт тэрэг galt te·reg
3 гурав gu·rav I’d like to change some travellers cheques. the plane
I’m ill. 4 дөрөв dö·röv нисэх онгоц ni·seh on·gots
Миний бие өвдөж байна. Би чек солих гэсэн юм.
5 тав tav bi chek so·likh ge·sen yum
mi·nii bi·ye öv·döj bai·na 6 зургаа zur·gaa What’s the exchange rate? Does this bus go to ...?
Could you please take me to hospital? 7 долоо do·loo Солих ханш хэд байна вэ? Энэ автобус ... руу явдаг уу?
Намайг эмнэлэгт хүргэж өгнө үү? 8 найм naim so·likh khansh hed bai·na ve? e·ne av·to·bus ... ruu yav·dag uu?
na·maig em·ne·legt khür·gej ög·nö üü? 9 ес yös
Could you help me please? Which bus goes to ...?
10 арав ar·av TRANSPORT
Та надад туслана уу? ... руу ямар автобус явдаг вэ?
11 арван нэг ar·van neg Where’s the ... ?
ta na·dad tsus·la·na uu? 12 арван хоёр ar·van kho·yor ... ruu ya·mar av·to·bus yav·dag ve?
... хаана байдаг вэ? Can you tell me when we get to ...?
I’ve lost my way. 13 арван гурав ar·van gu·rav ... khaa·na bai·dag ve?
Би төөрчихлөө. 14 арван дөрөв ar·van dö·röv Бид хэзээ ... хүрэхийг хэлж өгнө үү?
train station bid khe·zee ... khu·re·hiig helj ög·nö uu?
bi töör·chikh·löö 15 арван тав ar·van tav
галт тэрэгний galt te·re·ge·nii I want to get off!
I wish to contact my embassy. 16 арван зургаа ar·van zur·gaa
буудал buud·al Би буумаар байна!
Би элчин сайдын яамтайгаа холбоо 17 арван долоо ar·van do·loo
bus station/stop
баримаар байна. 18 арван найм ar·van naim bi buu·maar bai·na!
автобусны буудал av·to·bus·ny buu·dal
bi el·chin sai·diin yaam·tai·gaa khol·boo 19 арван ес ar·van yös Is this seat taken?
20 хорь kho·ri
trolley-bus stop
ba·ri·maar bai·na троллейбусны trol·lei·bus·ny Энэ суудал хүнтэй юү?
Where’s the toilet? 21 хорин нэг kho·rin neg e·ne suu·dal khün·tei yüü?
22 хорин хоёр kho·rin kho·yor буудал buu·dal
Бие засах газар хаана байдаг вэ? ticket office What’s this station called?
bi·ye za·sakh ga·zar khaa·na bai·dag ve? 30 гуч guch Энэ ямар нэртэй буудал вэ?
40 дөч döch тасалбаг түгээгүүр ta·sal·bag tu·gee·güür
e·ne ya·mar ner·tei buu·dal ve?
50 тавч taiv
хойд/умард How much is it to go to ...? What’s the next station??
LANGUAGE

north

LANGUAGE
khoid/u·mard 60 жар jar
south урд/өмнө urd/öm·nö 70 дал dal ... хүрэхэд ямар үнэтэй вэ? Дараагийн буудал ямар нэртэй буудал вэ?
east зүүн/дорно züün/dor·no 80 ная naya ... hu·re·hed ya·mar ü·ne·tei ve? da·raa·giin buu·dal ya·mar ner·tei buu·dal ve?
west баруун/өрнөд ba·ruun/ör·nöd 90 ер yör
behind/after хойно/ард khoi·no/ard 100 зуу zuu
in front/before өмнө/урд öm·nö/urd 101 зуун нэг zuun neg
to the left зүүн тийш züün tiish 1000 мянга myang·ga
to the right баруун тийш ba·ruun tiish one million сая sa·ya
straight ahead чигээрээ chi·gee·ree
урагшаа u·rag·shaa SHOPPING & SERVICES
Where’s the nearest ...?
Ойрхон ... хаана байнаг вэ?
LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES oir·khon ... khaa·na bai·dag ve?
Do you speak English? bank
Та англиар ярьдаг уу? банк bank
ta an·gliar yair·dag uu? department store
Could you speak more slowly? их дэлгүүр ikh del·güür Also available from Lonely Planet:
Та арай аажуухан ярина уу? hotel Mongolian Phrasebook
ta a·rai aa·juu·khan ya·ri·na uu? эoчид бүүдaл zo·chid buu·dal
 © Lonely Planet Publications
298 G L O S S A R Y 299

lama – Tibetan Buddhist monk or priest sum – a district; the administrative unit below an aimag

Glossary Lamaism – an outdated term, and now properly known

as Vajramana, or Tibetan Buddhism
Living Buddha – common term for reincarnations of
süm – Buddhist temple
suvrag – see stupa

Buddha; Buddhist spiritual leader in Mongolia (see Bogd taiga – subarctic coniferous evergreen forests (Russian)
See p46 in the Food & Drink chapter for els – sand; sand dunes Gegeen) takhi – the Mongolian wild horse; also known as
some useful words and phrases dealing with erdene – precious loovuuz – fox-fur hat Przewalski’s horse
food and dining. See the Language chapter tal – steppe
(p293) for other useful words and phrases. Furgon – Russian-made 11-seater minivan malchin – herder talbai – square
man stones – see balbal thangka – scroll painting; a rectangular Tibetan Buddhist
agui – cave or grotto gegeen – saint; saintlike person maral – Asiatic red deer painting on cloth, often seen in monasteries
aimag – a province/state within Mongolia ger – traditional circular felt yurt mod – tree tögrög – the unit of currency in Mongolia
am – mouth, but often used as a term for canyon gol – river morin khuur – horse-head fiddle töv – central
aral – island gov – desert mörön – another word for river, usually a wide river Tsagaan Sar – ‘white moon’ or ‘white month’; a festival to
arkhi – the common word to describe home-made vodka guanz – canteen or cheap restaurant MPRP – Mongolian People’s Revolutionary Party celebrate the Mongolian New Year (start of the lunar year)
ashkhana – restaurant (Kazakh) gudamj – street tsainii gazar – tea house/café
naadam – games; traditional festival with archery, horse tsam – lama dances; performed by monks wearing masks
baatar – hero hard seat – the common term to describe the standard racing and wrestling during religious ceremonies
bag – village; a subdivision of a sum of the 2nd-class train carriage nairamdal – friendship tsas – snow
baga – little nuruu – mountain range tsuivan gazar – noodle stall
balbal – stone figures believed to be Turkic grave mark- ikh – big nuur – lake tuuts – kiosk selling imported foodstuffs
ers; known as khun chuluu (man stones) in Mongolian ikh delgüür – department store
baruun – west Inner Mongolia – a separate province within China ömnö – south ulaan – red
bayan – rich irbis – snow leopard ordon – palace urtyn duu – traditional singing style
bodhisattva – Tibetan-Buddhist term; applies to a being örgön chölöö – avenue us – water
that has voluntarily chosen not to take the step to nirvana Jebtzun Damba – see Bogd Gegeen Outer Mongolia – northern Mongolia during Man- uul – mountain
in order to save the souls of those on earth churian rule (the term is not currently used to describe uurga – traditional wooden lasso used by nomads
Bogd Gegeen – the hereditary line of reincarnated Bud- Kazakh – ethnic minority, mostly living in western Mongolia)
dhist leaders of Mongolia, which started with Zanabazar; Mongolia ovoo – a shamanistic collection of stones, wood or other yavakh – depart
the third-holiest leader in the Tibetan Buddhist hierarchy; khaan – emperor; great khan offerings to the gods, usually found in high places yurt – the Russian word for ger
also known as Jebtzun Damba khad – rock
Bogd Khaan (Holy King) – title given to the Eighth Bogd khagan – khaan; generally used for leaders during the rashaan – mineral springs zakh – market
Gegeen (1869–1924) Turkic (pre-Mongol) period zochid budal – hotel
bökh – wrestling khaganate – Turkic (pre-Mongol) empire shaykhana – tea house (Kazakh) zud – a particularly bad winter, involving a huge loss of
bugan chuluu (deer stones) – upright grave mark- khagas – half-size soft seat – the common term to describe the standard of livestock
ers from the Bronze and Iron ages, on which are carved Khalkh – the major ethnic group living in Mongolia the 1st-class train carriage zun – summer
stylised images of deer khan – king or chief soyombo – the national symbol zuu – one hundred
bulag – natural spring khar – black stupa – a Buddhist religious monument composed of a züü – needle
Buriat – ethnic minority living along the northern frontier khashaa – fenced-in ger, often found in suburbs solid hemisphere topped by a spire, containing relics of the zuun – century
of Mongolia, mostly in Khentii and Dornod kherem – wall Buddha; also known as a pagoda, or suvrag in Mongolian züün – east
khetsuu – difficult/hard
chuluu – rock; rock formation khiid – Buddhist monastery
khödöö – countryside
davaa – mountain pass khoid – north
deer stones – see bugan chuluu khöndii – valley
del/deel – the all-purpose, traditional coat or dress worn khoroo – district or subdistrict
by men and women khot – city
delger – richness, plenty khulan – wild ass
delgüür – a shop khun chuluu (man stones) – see balbal
GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY
dombra – two-stringed lute (Kazakh) khuree – originally used to describe a ‘camp’, it is now © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
dorje – thunderbolt symbol, used in Tibetan Buddhist also in usage as ‘monastery’ restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
ritual khuriltai – nomadic congress during the Mongol era only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
dorno – east khürkhree – waterfall
dov – hill khutukhtu – reincarnated lama, or living god everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
dund – middle kino – cinema the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
303

Index
A basketball 36 Bugiin Tsav 214
accommodation 247-50 Batshireet 171-2 Buir Nuur 179
Achit Nuur 242 Bayan Nuur (Bayan-Ölgii) 228 Bulgan 141-8, 207
activities 55-61, 250-2, 186-7, see Bayan Nuur (Uvs) 240 Bulgan City 145-8, 146
also individual activities Bayan Nuur (Zavkhan) 246 Bulgan Gol gorge 228
aimag museums, see museums & Bayangiin Nuruu 214 Bulnai hot springs 160
galleries Bayangovi 213 Bürengiin Nuruu 141
airag 44, 45 Bayankhongor 210-14 Burgus 218
Airag Nuur 242 Bayankhongor City 211-12, 212 burial mounds 163, 222, 230,
air travel Bayan-Ölgii 222-31, 191 240, 245

INDEX
airlines 266, 277 Bayanzag 208 Buriat people 35, 132, 141, 148,
airports 266 Bayanzürkh Uul (Dornogov) 202 152, 174
carbon offset schemes 268 Bayanzürkh Uul (Töv) 115 Burkhan Khalduun 172
to/from Mongolia 266-9 Bichigtiin Khavtsal 184 Burkhant Khuv 214
within Mongolia 277 Biger 217-18 bus & minivan travel
Akhmet Ali Mejit 233 Bilge Khagan monument 129 to/from China 269
Alag Khairkhan Nature Reserve 215 Binder 171-2 to/from Russia 275
Alan Goa 23-4, 159 birds 50, see also bird-watching, within Mongolia 278, 279, 280-5
Alan Goa Museum 159 individual birds business hours 252
Altai (Gobi) 216-17, 217 bird-watching 251 buuz 42, 44, 45, 199
Altai Tavan Bogd National Park 53, central Mongolia 119, 129 Buyandelgerüülekh Khiid 127
223, 229-32 eastern Mongolia 178, 179
Altan Ovoo 182 Gobi, the 197, 208 C
Altanbulag 137 northern Mongolia 152 Camel Polo Winter Festival 82
Altan-Ölgii Uul 111 western Mongolia 235, 239, 242 camel riding 61, 214, 278
altitude sickness 291 Bituut rock 214 camels 50, 52, 208, 214, 215, 191
Amarbayasgalant Khiid 140-1, 140 blokarting 252 camping 247-9, 187
Amarbuyant Khiid 214 boat travel 278 gear & tools 93-4
Andrews, Roy Chapman 49, 206, 209 Bogd Gegeen 142 responsible camping 60
animals 49-51, 52, see also wildlife Bogd Khan 26-8, 74, 75, 161 canoeing, see kayaking
watching, individual animals Bogdkhan Uul Strictly car travel 15
endangered species 50-1 Protected Area 106-9 GPS coordinates table 284
Aral Tolgoi 230 Bohmörön 240 road distances chart 285
archery 35, 192 books to/from China 269
architecture 40 culture 29, 32 to/from Russia 275-6
argali sheep 50, 51, 152, 208, 218 fishing 58 within Mongolia 278
Arkhangai 126-31 food 42 central Mongolia 101-31, 102-3
arts 38-41, see also individual arts history 21, 25, 28, 38, 201, 209 history 104
Arvaikheer 117-19, 118 natural history 48, 54, 207 Centre of Shaman Eternal Heavenly
ATMs 258 poetry 24, 38-9 Sophistication 75-6
Avarga, ancient city of 26, 170 travel literature 16, 57, 59, 61, 142 Chandmani 236
Avarga Toson Mineral Spring 170 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 214 Chandman-Öndör 159-60
border crossings children, travel with 252
B to/from China 269 Chingeltei Uul 115
Bactrian camels 52, 215, 218, 191 to/from Russia 274-5 Chinggis Khaan see Khaan, Chinggis
Baga Gazryn Chuluu 197 border permits 66-7, 160-1, 172, Chinggis Khaan monument 110
Baga Gazryn Uul 197 179-80 Choibalsan 175-7, 175
Bairam Davaa 240 Borsog 154 Choibalsan, Khorloogiin 29, 175
balbals 168, 182, 216, 228, 230, brucellosis 289-90 Choidogiin Borgio 131
240, 245 bubonic plague 43, 290 Choijin Lama Temple Museum 75
Baldan Baraivan Khiid 171 Buddha Park 78 Choir 203-4
Baron Roman Nikolaus Fyodirovich Buddhism 36, 37, 161, 202, 235, 188 Christianity 36-7
von Ungern-Sternberg, 28 courses 79, 81 Chuluunkhoroot 178
Baruun-Urt 180-2, 181 itineraries 20 Chuluut gorge 131
 304 Index (C-H) Index (H-L) 305

cinema 39 Dornogov 198-204 northern Mongolia 149, 155 responsible hiking 60 Jargalant Khairkhan Uul 236 Khentii 165-74
climate 13-14, 31, 49, 252-3 drinks 33, 43-4, 46 western Mongolia 241, 242, 246 safety 61 Jartiin Khuv 214 Khentii Nuruu 165-8
Colonel Nikolai Przewalski 51 Dugany Am 209 Flaming Cliffs 208 tours 59 Javkhlant Tolgo 244 Kherlen Bar Khot 177
consulates 255 Dukha people, see Tsaatan people food 42-7, 255-6, 189 western Mongolia 230, 241 Jebtzun Damba 26, 75, 161 see also Khermen Tsav 214
costs 14-15 Dulaankhaan 137-8 customs 33, 45-6 history 21-30 Bogd Khan Khetsuu Khad 242
courses Dundgov 195-8 vegetarian travellers 45 books 21, 25, 28, 38, 201, 209 jeep travel 280-5, see also car travel Khögnö Khan Uul 125
Buddhism 79, 81 dune buggying 251 fossils 198, 206-7, 214, 7 central Mongolia 104 GPS coordinates table 284 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve
language 79, 80, 224 DVT 288 four holy peaks 108 communism 27-29, 30 road distances chart 285 104, 125-6
music 224, 244 democracy 29-30, 74 Jiglegiin Am 154 Khökh Nuur (Dornod) 178
credit cards 258 E G eastern Mongolia 165 Khökh Nuur (Khentii) 171
culture 29, 31-41 eagle-hunters 4, 226, 228, 229, 186 Gachuurt 114-15 northern Mongolia 133 K Khökh Nuur (Uvs) 241
customs regulations 253 eagles 4, 20, 197, 229, 186 Galuut Canyon 212 Russians in Mongolia 27-9, 30, 63, Karakorum 26, 120, 122, 123 see also Khökh Serkh Strictly Protected Area
eastern Mongolia 19, 164-84, 166-7 Gandan Khiid 73-5 73, 133, 137, 138, 142 Kharkhorin 223, 228, 232
D economy 12, 29-30, 32-4, 48 Gandan Muntsaglan Khiid 117 Warrior Queens of Mongolia 27 kayaking 61, 114, 156-7, 228 Khomyn Tal 246
Dadal 173-5 ecotourism 54 Ganga Nuur Nature Reserve 180, 182 western Mongolia 221 Kazakh people 35, 110, 219, 221, 222, Khongoryn Els 209-10
INDEX

INDEX
Dakilbay Davaa 230 Eej Cave 171 gay travellers 256 hitching 15, 278-9 223, 229 khöömii 39, 75, 91, 236, 244
Dalanzadgad 204-6, 205 Eej Khad 109 gazelle 20, 49-50, 54, 116, 174, 178, Hoeloun 181 Khaan, Chinggis 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 34, Khorgo Uul 130
Dalmatian pelican 50, 242 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve 215, 218 179, 180, 183, 184, 204, 208, 214 holidays 256 104, 120, 129, 160, 165, 172, 173 Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur
Daltin Khuv 214 Eej Khairkhan Uul 218 Gelenkhuu, Khainzan 163 homeless children 83 National Park 53, 104, 130-1
Khaan, Kublai 24-5, 26, 27, 34, 36,
Dambijantsan 214 Eight Lakes 119 Genden, P 30, 73 horse racing 35, 192 Khotgor 240
horse riding 59-61, 279, 281 120, 122
dance 41 Ekhiin Gol 214 Genghis Khan, see Khaan, Chinggis Khaan, Ögedei 24, 26, 27, 46, 104, Khoton Nuur 229, 230
dangers 68, 254-5 central Mongolia 108, 111, 114, Khovd 231-6
electricity 248 geography 48-9 116, 119, 131 120, 122, 170
Danrig Danjaalin Khiid 176 embassies 255 gers 31, 32, 40, 249-50, 5, 8 Khagiin Khar Nuur 111 Khovd City 232-5, 233
Danzandarjaa Khiid 150 eastern Mongolia 172, 173 Khövsgöl 148-63
environmental issues 53-4 etiquette 33, 45-6 northern Mongolia 156, 160 Khajuu Bulag 173
Dariganga 182-3 Erdene Zuu Khiid 120-2 Gimpil Darjaalan Khiid 197 Khövsgöl Nuur 152-9
western Mongolia 228, 246 Khalkh people 35, 101, 132, 148, 180,
Darkhad Depression 160-2 Erdenebulgan 160 Givaan 238 Khövsgöl Nuur National Park 53,
Darkhad people 148, 52 horse sledding 157, 186 219, 222, 232, 237
Erdeneburen 228 Goa, Alan 23-4, 159 horses 12, 49, 52, 59, 162, 281, 8 Khalkhiin Gol 179-80 152-9, 153
Darkhan 138-40, 139 Khuisiin Naiman Nuur Nature
Erdenedalai 197 Gobi, the 193-218, 194, 210 takhi 51, 116, 218, 246 Khalun Us Rashant 173
Darkhan-Uul 138-40 Reserve 119
Erdenemandal Khiid 180-1 Gobi bear 50, 210, 215, 218 hotels 250 Khamaryn Khiid 202
Dashbalbar, Ochirbatyn 39 Khujirt 119
Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid 106, 146 Erdenet 142-5, 143 golf 78, 111, 251, 6 Hun people 21-2, 123 Khan, Genghis, see Khaan, Chinggis
Erdenet copper mine 143 Gongor, Öndöör 163 Hustai Nuruu see Khustain Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area Khurgan Nuur 230
Dashgimpeliin Khiid 196
Erdenetsagaan 184 Gorkhi-Terelj National Park 53, 104, National Park 111, 165-8 Khurgiin Khundii 184
Dashinchilen 148
Dayan Derkh Monastery 160 Ereen Nuur 246 110-14 hypothermia 291-2 Khan Khökhii National Park 237 Khustain National Park 53, 104, 115-17
Dayan Derkhiin Agui 160 Ergeliin Zuu 198-9 Gov-Altai 215-18 Khanbalik (Beijing) 26, 120, 122 Khutagt Ekh Datsan 136
Dayan Uul 245 Ethnography Museum 168 GPS (Global Positioning System) I Khanbogd 206-7 Khyakhta (Russia) 137
Dechinchoinkhorlin Khiid 200 Ethnography Museum (Bulgan City) 146 283, 284 ibex 50, 51, 125, 152, 195, 208, 209, Khandgait 115 Khyakhta, Treaty of 27, 136, 137
Dechinravjaalin Khiid 237 Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area 215, 218, 230 Khangai Nuruu 104, 245 Khyargas Nuur 242
deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 288 F 218, 232 ice skating 144, 251 Khangai Nuruu National Park 125 Khyargas Nuur National Park 237, 242
deer stones 148, 152, 159, 171, 228, falcons 51, 183, 119 Great Lakes Depression 237 Ikh Agui 246 Khangil Nuur 171 kite 50
240, 246 festivals 15, 38, 44, 255, see also Great White Lake 130 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 198 Khankh 155 kite boarding 252
Delgerkhaan 170-1 special events guanz 44-5 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Nature Reserve 195 Kharaagiin Khiid 138 Kul-Teginii monument 129
Deluun 228 Blue Valley Awards Festival 161 guesthouses 250 Ikh Khairkhan Nuruu 246 Khar Balgas 129
Deluun Boldog 173 Camel Polo Winter Festival 82 Gunii Khöndii 214 Ikh Nart Nature Reserve 198-9 Khar Bukh Balgas 148 L
Demchigiin Khiid 207 Eagle Festival 226 Günjiin Süm 110-11 Ikh Nuuruudin Khotgor 237 Khar Nuur (Khovd) 236 lakes
Develiin Aral Nature Reserve 223, 240 Gongoriin Bombani Hural 141 Gurdava, Rinpoche 141 Ikh Santin Davaa 154 Khar Nuur (Zavkhan) 246 Achit Nuur 242
diarrhoea 291 Horse Festival 226 Gurvan Saikhan National Park 53, insurance 256 Khar Tsalaagiin Gol 230-1 Airag Nuur 242
dinosaurs 206, 214, 7 Khatgal Ice Festival 157, 186 204, 208-10 internet access 256 Khar Us 154 Bayan Nuur (Bayan-Ölgii) 228
disabilities, travellers with 261-2 Naadam Festival 35, 82, 93, internet resources 16 Khar Us Nuur (Khovd) 235-6 Bayan Nuur (Uvs) 240
Dog Rock 109 96-7, 192 H culture 37, 38, 41 Khar Us Nuur National Park 232, 235-6 Bayan Nuur (Zavkhan) 246
dog sledding 252, 187 Navrus 226 hawks 50, 51, 119, 125 food 42, 43, 45 Khar Us Nuur (Uvs) 241 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 214
Dörgön 235 Reindeer Festival 155, 161 health 287-92, see also individual health 288 Khar Zurkhen 171 Buir Nuur 179
Dörgön Nuur 236 Roaring Hooves Music Festival 198 entries history 22 Kharkhiraa Gol 241 Dörgön Nuur 236
Dornod 174-80 Tsagaan Sar 207 heatstroke 291 natural history 48, 50, 51, 53, 58 Kharkhiraa Uul 241 Döröö Nuur 228
Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Yak Festival 130 hepatitis 290 Islam 36, 223 Kharkhorin 120-4, 121 Eight Lakes 119
Area 174 films 29, 30, 34, 39 hiking 58-9 itineraries 17-20 Khasagt Khairkhan Strictly Protected Ereen Nuur 246
fish 50, see also fishing central Mongolia 107-8, 111, 116, Area 215 Ganga Nuur 182
000 Map pages fishing 58 125, 127, 131 J Khatanbaatar Magsarjav Great White Lake 130
000 Photograph pages central Mongolia 130, 131 eastern Mongolia 172, 173 Jankhai 154 Mausoleum 146 Khagiin Khar Nuur 111
eastern Mongolia 172, 173 northern Mongolia 155, 156, 160 Jargalant 163 Khatgal 153-4, 157, 154 Khangil Nuur 171
 306 I n d e x ( L- M ) Index (M-N) 307

lakes continued Millennium Road 183 money 14-15, 255, 257-8 Khangai Nuruu 245 Hunting Museum 73 Develiin Aral Nature Reserve
Khar Nuur (Khovd) 236 Mining Museum (Erdenet) 144 Mongol Altai Nuruu 222 Kharkhiraa Uul 241 International Intellectual 223, 240
Khar Nuur (Zavkhan) 246 mobile phones 260 Mongol Daguur Strictly Protected Area Khentii Nuruu 165-8 Museum 73 Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected
Khar Us Nuur (Khovd) 235-6 Modon Huys 156 174, 178 Khögnö Khan Uul 125 Jargalant Museum 163 Area 174
Khar Us Nuur (Uvs) 241 Modot Bulan 157-8 Mongol Els 126 Khorgo Uul 130 Khovd Museum 232 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve
Khökh Nuur (Dornod) 178 Modun 21 Mongol empire 24-6, 27, 123 Khuiten Uul 231 Mining Museum (Erdenet) 144 215, 218
Khökh Nuur (Khentii) 171 Mogoi Mod (Snake Tree) 154 Mongolian National Modern Art Khustain Nuruu 115-17 Mongolian Artists’ Exhibition Hall 76 Ergeliin Zuu 198-9
Khökh Nuur (Uvs) 241 Moltsog Els 182 Gallery 76 Mongol Altai 222 Mongolian National Artists Ganga Nuur Nature Reserve
Kholboo Nuur 182 monasteries & temples Mongol people 23-4, 32 Mönkh Khairkhan Uul 236 Union 76 180, 182
Khoton Nuur 229, 230 Amarbayasgalant Khiid 140-1 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park Nairamdal Uul 231 Mongolian National Modern Art Gorkhi-Terelj National Park 53,
Khövsgöl Nuur 152-9 Amarbuyant Khiid 214 232, 236 Naran Uul 231 Gallery 76 104, 110-14
Khurgan Nuur 229, 230 Bakula Rinpoche Süm 76 Mönkh Khairkhan Uul 236 Ölgii Uul 231 Museum of Danzan Ravjaa Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area
Khyargas Nuur 242 Baldan Baraivan Khiid 171 Monument Park (Mandalgov) 196 Otgon Tenger Uul 245 199-202 215, 218, 232
Naiman Nuur 119 Buyandelgerüülekh Khiid 127 monuments & statues Rashany Ikh Uul 230 Museum of Darkhan-Uul 138 Gurvan Saikhan National Park 53,
Ögii Nuur 129 Centre for Buddhist Medicine 76 Alan Goa 159 Rich Heart Mountains 115 Museum of Famous People 244 204, 208-10
INDEX

INDEX
Ölgii Nuur 241 Centre of Shaman Eternal Heavenly Aldanjavyn Ayush 233 Sairyn Uul 228 Museum Of Natural History 69-72 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Nature
Sangiin Dalai Nuur (Dornod) 179 Sophistication 75-6 Chinggis Khaan (Binder) 171 Songino Khairkhan Uul 109 Museum of the General Reserve 195
Sangiin Dalai Nuur (Dundgov) 197 Choijin Lama Temple Museum 75 Chinggis Khaan (Dadal) 173 Sutai Uul 218 Intelligence Agency 73 Ikh Nart Nature Reserve 198-9
Telmen Nuur 246 Danrig Danjaalin Khiid 176 Chinggis Khaan (Delgerkhaan) 170 Tavan Belchiriin Uul 228 National Museum Of Mongolian internet resources 48
Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 130 Danzandarjaa Khiid 150 Chinggis Khaan (Öndörkhaan) 168 Tavan Bogd 231 History 69 Khan Khentii Strictly Protected
Tolbo Nuur 228 Dashbijeliin Süm 163 Friendship Monument (Erdenet) 143 Togoo Uul 148 Natural History Museum Area 111, 165-8
Tsagaan Nuur 182 Dashchoilon Khiid 76 Galdan Boshigt 233 Tsambagarav Uul 228 (Bayankhongor) 211 Khan Khökhii National Park 237
Ulaan Nuur 207 Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid Givaan 238 Tsast Uul 228 Natural History Museum Khangai Nuruu 104
Üüreg Nuur 240 (Bulgan)146 Ikh Burkhant 179 Türgen Uul 241 (Choibalsan) 176 Khangai Nuruu National Park 125
Uvs Nuur 239-40 Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid (Töv) 106 Mongolian Heroes’ Memorial 176 Ugtam Uul 178 Nature Museum (Yolyn Am) 208 Khar Us Nuur National Park 232,
Zuun Nuur 162 Railway Museum 73
Dashgimpeliin Khiid 196 Seeriyn Adigyn Bugan Khoshoo 148 Uran Uul 148 235-6
Lamyn Gegeenii Gon Gandan Dedlin Red Ger Art Gallery 69
Dayan Derkh Monastery 160 stone turtles 123 Vangiin Tsagaan Uul 179 South Gobi Museum 204 Khasagt Khairkhan Strictly
Khiid 211 Dechinchoinkhorlin Khiid 200 tank monument (Sainshand) 200 Yargaitin Ekh Uul 236 Protected Area 215
language 15, 293-7 Sükhbaatar Museum 182
Dechinravjaalin Khiid 237 Toroi-Bandi 184 Mother Cave 171 Sümber Museum 179 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve
courses 79, 80, 224 Demchigiin Khiid 207 Yakolevchudiin Tank Khoshuu 179 Mukhar Shiveert 209 104, 125-6
food vocabulary 46-7 Theatre Museum 73
Eguur Monastery 218 Yalaltiin Khoshuu 179 Museum of Danzan Ravjaa 199 Ulaanbaatar City Museum 73 Khökh Serkh Strictly Protected
legal matters 256-7 Eguzer Khutagtiin Khuree 184 Yumjaagiin Tsedenbal 238 Museum of Famous People 244 Area 223, 228, 232
Victims Of Political Persecution
lesbian travellers 256 Erdene Zuu Khiid 120-2 Mörön 149-52, 150 Museum Of Natural History 69-72 Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur
Memorial Museum 73
literature 38-9, see also books Erdenemandal Khiid 180-1 Mother Rock 109 museums & galleries National Park 53, 104, 130-1
West Road Military Unit
Lkhachinvandad Uul Nature Reserve Gandan Khiid 73-5 motorcycle travel Aimag Museum (Arkhangai) 127 Museum 146 Khövsgöl Nuur National Park 53,
180, 184 Gandan Muntsaglan Khiid 117 GPS coordinates table 284 Aimag Museum (Bayan-Ölgii) 224 Zanabazar Memorial Museum 118 152-9
Lovon Chombin Agui 207 Gelekhuugiin Suvraga 163 road distances chart 285 Aimag Museum Zanabazar Museum Of Fine Arts 69 Khustain National Park 53, 104,
Gesar Süm 76 to/from China 269 (Bayankhongor) 211 Zundoi Davag Museum 173 115-17
M Gimpil Darjaalan Khiid 197 to/from Russia 275-6 Aimag Museum (Bulgan) 146 music 39-40 Khyargas Nuur National Park
Magsarjav, Khatanbaatar 146 Günjiin Süm 110-11 within Mongolia 278 Aimag Museum (Dornod) 176 courses 224, 244 237, 242
Malchin Peak 231 Jargalantiin Dugan 163 mountain biking 55-7, 251, 278 Aimag Museum (Dornogov) 199 Lkhachinvandad Uul Nature
man stones, see balbals Khamaryn Khiid 202 routes & tours 55-7, 98, 113, 240 Aimag Museum (Dundgov) 196 N Reserve 180, 184
Manchu rule 26, 133, 142, 165, 177, Kharaagiin Khiid 138 mountain climbing 231, 236, 251 Aimag Museum (Gov-Altai) 216 Naadam Festival 35, 82, 93, 96-7, 192 Mankhan Nature Reserve 232
221, 243 Khutagt Ekh Datsan 136 mountains Aimag Museum (Khentii) 168 Chandman-Öndör 159 Mongol Daguur Strictly Protected
Manchu military garrison 244 Lamyn Gegeenii Gon Gandan Altan-Ölgii Uul 111 Aimag Museum (Khövsgöl) 149-50 Khatgal 157 Area 174, 178
Manchu ruins (Sangiin Kherem) Dedlin Khiid 211 Baga Gazryn Uul 197 Aimag Museum (Orkhan) 144 Renchinlkhumbe 161 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park
232-3 Mandshir Khiid 106-7 Bayanzürkh Uul (Dornogov) 202 Aimag Museum (Övörkhangai) 118 Naiman Nuur 119 232, 236
Mandalgov 195-7, 196 Ongiin Khiid 197-8 Bayanzürkh Uul (Töv) 115 Aimag Museum (Selenge) 137 Nairamdal Park 78 Nömrög Strictly Protected Area
Mandshir Khiid 106-7 Övgön Khiid 125 Birch Mountain Range 115-17 Aimag Museum (Uvs) 237 Nalaikh 109-10 174, 179
Manicheism 23 Ovoon Khiid 182 Bürengiin Nuruu 141 Alan Goa Museum 159 Namarjin valley 228 Noyon Khangai National Park 131
Mankhan Nature Reserve 232 Shadavdarjaliin Khiid 168 Bürged Uul 231 Baruun-Urt Museum 180 National Academic Drama Theatre 92 Onon-Balj National Park 168, 173
maps 63-5, 257 Shankh Khiid 119-20 Burkhan Khalduun 172 Central Province Museum 105 National Museum Of Mongolian Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly
Marra valley 228 Süm Khökh Burd 197 Chingeltei Uul 115 Chandman-Öndör Museum 159 History 69 Protected Area 53, 245-6
measures 248 Tasgany Ovoo 76 Dayan Uul 245 Children’s Art & Creation Centre 76 national parks 51-3 permits 52-3
Megjin 235 Tögs Buyant Javkhlant Khiid 244 Eej Khairkhan Uul 218 Ethnography Museum 168 Alag Khairkhan Nature Reserve 215 Sharga Nature Reserve 215
Tövkhön Khiid 124-5 four holy peaks 108 Ethnography Museum (Bulgan Altai Tavan Bogd National Park 53, Siilkhem Nuruu National Park 223
000 Map pages Türeemel Amarjuulagai Khiid 233 God’s Hill 172 City) 146 223, 229-32 Small Gobi A Strictly Protected
000 Photograph pages Winter Palace Of Bogd Khan 75 Ikh Khairkhan Nuruu 246 Fine Art Gallery 76 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Area 204
Zayain Gegeenii Süm 127 Jargalant Khairkhan Uul 236 History Museum (Uliastai) 244 Protected Area 106-9 Takhiin Tal 215-16
 © Lonely Planet Publications
308 I n d e x ( N -T ) I n d e x ( T - Z ) 309

national parks continued Darkhad people 148, 152 shamanism 38, 149, 153, 174, 6 throat singing 39, 75, 91, 236, 244 Turtle Rocks (Övörkhangai) 123 W
Tes River Reserve 237 Kazakh people 35, 110, 219, 221, Shangdu 26 time 261 TV 248 Wall Of Chinggis Khaan 177-8
Toson Khulstai Strictly Protected 222, 223, 229 Shankh Khiid 119-20 Togoo Uul 148 weather 13-14, 31, 252-3
Area 175 Khalkh people 35, 101, 132, 148, Sharav, Balduugiyn 40 Tögs Buyant Javkhlant Khiid 244 U Wedding Palace 73
Tsambagarav Uul National Park 180, 219, 222, 232, 237 Sharga Nature Reserve 215 toilets 261 Ugtam Uul 178 weights 248
223, 228 Tsaatan people 35, 132, 133, 148, Shargaljuut 212-13 Toilogt 154 Ugtam Uul Nature Reserve 175 western Mongolia 18, 219-46, 220-1
Ugtam Uul Nature Reserve 175, 178 149, 152-3, 155, 160, 161-2 Shiliin Bogd Uul 183-4 Tolbo Nuur 228 Ulaan Davaa 240 West Road Military Unit Museum 146
Uran-Togoo Tulga Uul Nature petroglyphs 214, 222, 230 Shine-Ider 162 Tonyukok, stele of 110 Ulaan Nuur 207
Reserve 148 Phallic Rock 123 Toson Khulstai Strictly Protected white-naped crane 50, 51, 174
shopping 93-5, 259 Ulaan Suvraga 198
Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 237 phone cards 260-1 Siilkhem Nuruu National Park 223 Area 175 wildlife 49-51, 54
Ulaan Tolgoi 230
Yakh Nuur Nature Reserve 175 photography 258-9 skiing 111, 252 Tosontsengel 246 Ulaan Tsutgalan 125 wildlife watching 52-3
Zagiin Us Nature Reserve 195 planning 13-16, 255 Small Gobi A Strictly Protected Area 204 tourist information 261 Ulaanbaatar 26, 62-100, 64, 70-2, central Mongolia 116-7, 125
Natsagdorj, Dashdorjiin 38-9 plants 51, 52 snow leopards 50, 51, 208, 216 tours 80-2 188, 189 eastern Mongolia 168, 173, 174
Natural History Museum plays 26 Sogoog 229 central Mongolia 111, 117 activities 78 Gobi, the 198, 208, 214
(Bayankhongor) 211 politics (modern) 12, 31-2, 74 solo travellers 259 see also women companies within Mongolia 80-2 attractions 68-78 northern Mongolia 152
INDEX

INDEX
nature reserves, see national parks polo 36, 252 travellers northern Mongolia 150 dangers 68 itineraries 20
newspapers 248 population 12, 35, 77, see also peoples Songino Khairkhan Uul 109 overseas-based companies 270 drinking 90-1 William of Rubruck 45, 122
Nömrög Strictly Protected Area 174, 179 postal services 259 South Gobi Museum 204 western Mongolia 224 eating 86-90 Winter Palace Of Bogd Khan 75
northern Mongolia 132-63, 134-5 Potanii glacier 231 soyombo 31, 142 Töv 105-17, 107 emergency services 65 wolves 50, 116, 125, 179
Noyon Khangai National Park 131 Przewalski, Colonel Nikolai 51 special events 255, see also festivals Tövkhön Khiid 124-5 entertainment 91-3 women travellers 259, 264
Przewalski’s horse, see takhi Mongol Rally 274 traditional medicine 292 festivals 82 work 264-5
O Sunrise to Sunset train travel gay travellers 93 wrestling 35, 36, 192
Ögedei Khaan see Khaan, Ögedei R Ultra-marathon 157 to/from China 269-74, 275 history 63
Ögii Nuur 129 rabies 290 sports 35-6, see also individual sports to/from Russia 275, 276 internet access 65
Öglögchiin Kherem 171 radio 248 Stalin, Joseph 29, 30, 73 Trans-Mongolian medical services 66 X
Old Man Reading a Book 111 rafting 61, 111, 229 State Opera & Ballet Theatre 92 Railway 272-3, 191 money 66 Xanadu 26
Ölgii 223-8, 225 Rashaan Khad 171 State Youth & Children’s Theatre 91 within Mongolia 285-6 postal services 67
Ölgii mosque 224 Rashany Ikh Uul 230 statues see monuments & statues Trans-Mongolian Railway 272-3, 191 shopping 93-5 Y
Ölgii Nuur 241 Ravjaa, Danzan 39, 41, 199, 201, 202 Sükhbaatar 136-7, 180-4, 136 travel to/from Mongolia 266-276 sleeping 82-6 yak carting 113, 157
Ömnögov 204-10 reindeer 49, 50, 52, 149, 155, 161 Sükhbaatar, Damdin 28, 136, 137 travel within Mongolia 276-86 special events 82 Yakh Nuur Nature Reserve 175
Öndörkhaan 168-70, 169 religion 36-8, see also individual Sükhbaatar Square 77-8 Tsaatan people 35, 132, 133, 148, tourist offices 67 yaks 52, 278
Ongiin Khiid 197-8 religions Sükhbaatar Town 182 149, 152-3, 155, 160, 161-2 tours 80-2 Yamaat Valley 240
Onon-Balj National Park 168, 173 Renchinlkhumbe 161 Süm Khökh Burd 197 Tsagaan Agui 213 travel to/from 95-9 Yargaitin Ekh Uul 236
Orkhon 142 responsible travel 33 Sümber 179, 180 Tsagaan Bulag 214 travel within 99-100 Yasnee Tsav 214
Orkhon Khürkhree 125 air travel 268 Sutai Uul 218 Tsagaan Sar 44, 207 walking tour 78-9, 79 Yestii Hot Water Springs 111
Orkhon sum 144 camping & hiking 60 swimming 78, 130, 144, 240, 241 Tsagaan Suvraga 198 Ulaangom 237-9, 238
Uliastai 26, 243-5, 243 yoga 79-80
Otgon 245 ecotourism 54 Tsagaan Us Gol Valley 231
Tsagaannuur 161-2 Uran Uul 148 Yolyn Am 208-9
Otgon Tenger Uul 245 ger etiquette 33 T
Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly photographing people 33 Taikhar Chuluu 129-30 Tsagaan-Uur 160 Uran-Togoo Tulga Uul Nature
Protected Area 53, 245-6 restaurants 45 taimen 50, 58, 160, 179 Tsambagarav Uul 228 Reserve 148 Z
Övgön Khiid 125 Roaring Hooves Music Festival 198 takhi 51, 116, 218, 246 Tsambagarav Uul National Park Urga (Ulaanbaatar) 26, 28, 104, 243 Zagastain Davaa 245
Ovoon Khiid 182 rock climbing 252 Takhiin Tal 215 223, 228 Urgamal 246 Zagiin Us Nature Reserve 195
ovoos 38, 172, 173, 182, 183, 202, Russians in Mongolia 27-9, 30, 63, 73, Taliin Agui 184 tsam-mask dancing 75, 82, 255, 189 Üüreg Nuur 240 Zaisan Memorial 78
214, 240, 7 137, 138, 142 Tavan Belchiriin Uul 228 Tsast Uul 228 Uushigiin Uver 152 Zamyn Üüd 202-3
Övörkhangai 117-26 Tavan Bogd 231 Tsedenbal, Yumjaagiin 29, 238 Uvs 237-42 Zanabazar 26, 31, 40, 63, 75, 119,
S Tavan Khumit 236 Tsengel 229 Uvs Nuur 239-40 124-5, 141, 142, 197
P saiga antelope 50, 53, 236 taxi travel 285 Tsenkher hot springs 129 Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 237 Zanabazar Memorial Museum 118
painting 40-1 Sainshand 199-202, 200 telephone services 260-1 Tsenkheriin Agui 236 Zanabazar Museum Of Fine Arts 69
thangka 40 Sairyn Uul 228 Telmen 246 Tsenkhermandal 171 V Zavkhan 242-6, 190
Palace of Culture 92 Sangiin Dalai Nuur (Dornod) 179 Telmen Nuur 246 Tsetserleg 126-9, 127 vaccinations 287-8, 289 Zayain Gegeenii Süm 127
paragliding 78, 114 Sangiin Kherem (Manchu Ruins) 232-3 temples see monasteries & temples Tsogt Taijiin Tsagaan Balgas 148 Vangiin Tsagaan Uul 179
Tsongkhapa 197 vegetarian travellers 45 Zorig, Sanjaasurengiin 74
passports 266 Sanjaasurengiin Zorig 74 Temujin 24, 171, 181 see also Khaan, zud 49
peoples Saran Khöökhöö Drama Theatre 201 Chinggis Tsonjiin Chuluu 203 Victims Of Political Persecution
Buriat people 35, 132, 141, 148, tuberculosis (TB) 290-1 Memorial Museum 73 Zundoi Davag Museum 173
satellite phones 260 Terelj 110-14, 112
152, 174 Türeemel Amarjuulagai Khiid 233 visas 262-4 Zuun Nuur 162
sculpture 40-1 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 130
Selenge 133-41 Tes 239 Türgen Uul 241 voluntary work 81, 85, 117, 265 Zuun Salaa Mod 131
Senjit Khad 203 Tes River Reserve 237 Turkic-speaking people 22, 104 von Ungern-Sternberg, Baron Roman Zuunmod 105-6, 105
000 Map pages Turtle Rock (Töv) 111 Nikolaus Fyodirovich 28 Zuunmod Khuv 214
000 Photograph pages Sevsuul 154 thangka 40
Shadavdarjaliin Khiid 168 theatre 41, 91-2