Implementation Toolkit for the H&M group

Chemical Restrictions 2018

Apparel Accessories Footwear Home Interior Textile Products
Global Product Compliance Department Valid for all brands in the H&M Group.
H&M group Implementation Toolkit Apparel/Accessories/Footwear/Home Interior Textile
Valid for all brands in H&M group

VERSION HISTORY
Version Date Changes Made Page
1.0 2014 Original Document
2.0 2016-07-01 Chapter “Description and field of application” 5
and “Risky chemicals per material”
- Different materials added to both chapters

Chapter “Communication in the supply chain” 25

- Flowchart is updated and Trade Secret in SDS info is added.

Chapter “Frequently asked questions”

- Cr dyes info edited and questions on raw material suppliers test results clarified 27
3.0 2017-04-01 Removed Hardline from the Toolkit. Front page

Changed test method for the following from colour depended to material: 17-19

- Formaldehyde
- Organotin Compounds
- Chromium VI
- OPP
- Cationic Surfactants
22
Footnote 15. Water based PU added

Added specific requirements for Footwear to be shipped to Turkey (taken from the present H&M Phthalate Test 18, 31
Guideline for Footwear Bought for Turkey)

Added a more clear reference to the compliance certificate (Appendix 3). 34

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Version Date Changes Made Page

4.0 2018-03-05 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES GUIDE
- New Risk Matrix 9-11
- Risk matrix for Plastics and Rubber: updated with ABS 12-13
- Further guidance to the restricted substances: Updated. 14-30
- Removed information on odour. 30

The Turkish boarder has expanded their custom control scope with Chromium VI and Dioctylin (DOT) test 32, (35), 43
in addition to the Phthalate content of Footwear products.

CHEMICAL TESTS SAMPLING GUIDELINE

- Updated sampling guideline. 31-35
- Changed test method for APEO / Coated fabric from colour dependent to material. 31
- BPA added. 31
- Phthalates (plastic/rubber parts): Both accessible and inaccessible parts should be tested, except 34
for bags where only accessible parts are necessary to test.
- Changed test method for pH value from testing maximum three colours together to test each 35
colour separately. For pH value / Prints: “Test fabric and print together”; the information about
colour has been removed.
- Styrene added. 35

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 39-42

Q&A’s added.

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Table of Contents
VERSION HISTORY ........................................................................................................................... 2

INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................... 7

BACKGROUND ................................................................................................................................. 9

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES GUIDE ..................................................................................................... 9

RISK MATRIX ............................................................................................................................... 9
RISK MATRIX; PLASTICS AND RUBBER ...................................................................................... 12
FURTHER GUIDANCE TO THE RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES ......................................................... 14

CHEMICAL TESTS SAMPLING GUIDELINE ........................................................................................ 31

APEO ......................................................................................................................................... 31
Azo Dyes and Pigments ............................................................................................................ 31
BPA ........................................................................................................................................... 31
Cationic Surfactants ................................................................................................................. 31
Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs and MCCPs) ............................................................................... 32
Chromium VI............................................................................................................................. 32
Disperse Dyes ........................................................................................................................... 32
Formaldehyde .......................................................................................................................... 33
Metals (extractable) ................................................................................................................. 33
Metals (total) ............................................................................................................................ 33
Nickel release ........................................................................................................................... 33
Organotin Compounds ............................................................................................................. 34
PVC ........................................................................................................................................... 34
Phthalates ................................................................................................................................. 34
Phenols, o-Phenylphenol (OPP) ............................................................................................... 35
pH-value ................................................................................................................................... 35
Styrene ..................................................................................................................................... 35

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CHEMICAL TESTING ....................................................................................................................... 36

Supplier Chemical Testing and Testing according to Risk Assessment .................................... 36
Non Compliance ....................................................................................................................... 36
How to choose Laboratories for Chemical Tests ...................................................................... 36

COMMUNICATION IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN ...................................................................................... 37

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ................................................................................................... 39

H&M group Chemical Restrictions ........................................................................................... 39
H&M contacts........................................................................................................................... 41
Testing and test methods ......................................................................................................... 41

APPENDIX 1. SAFETY DATA SHEET (SDS) ........................................................................................ 43

APPENDIX 2. LABELLING OF CHEMICAL PRODUCTS ........................................................................ 44

APPENDIX 3. COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATE ........................................................................................ 45

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DEFINITIONS & ABBREVIATIONS

Concentration Limit The substance must not be present in the product at concentrations above this limit.

Not Detected The substance must not be present in the finished product at concentrations above the analytical reporting limit.

Usage ban The substance must not be used in production and it must not be added to the product 1.

Homogeneous Uniform composition throughout, i.e. a material that cannot be mechanically disjointed into different materials.

Kinematic Limit Describes how fast a fluid is spread on a flat surface in relation to its mass, i.e. weight.

Reporting limit Describes the level of detection times a safety factor selected by the laboratory that ensures repeatability and reproducibility.

Self-declaration All chemicals used should have Safety Data Sheets, SDS, showing that no restricted substance is included.
Upon request supplier must be able to present the SDS for the chemicals used in the production of the requested product. Other supporting
documents such as certificates from subcontractors etc. can also be considered as a part of the SD.
Soft Home Interior Products All soft interior/decoration products, like e.g. beddings, mats, carpets, towels, pillows, curtains, shower curtains, etc.
Substances defined as hazardous due to Persistent, bio accumulative and toxic (PBT), very persistent and very bio accumulative (vPvB), carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic for
intrinsic properties. reproduction (CMR), endocrine disruptors (ED) or equivalent concern

CAS no Chemical Abstracts Service number, an identification number for chemicals in this database.
CI no Colour Index number
cl Centilong
cSt centistokes, which is the same as 1mm2/s. This is the unit used for kinematic viscosity.
MRSL Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
ppm Parts per million, which is the same as mg/kg.
Percentage Percentage is weight by weight, % w/w
REACH Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals
SVHC Substances of Very High Concern

1Impurities at low concentrations of these substances may be accepted only if technically unavoidable due to e.g. raw materials, formation in the manufacturing process, storage or packaging.

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INTRODUCTION
The official and valid version of this document is in English. Any translation of the document is prepared for reference only. H&M group accepts no
liability for any mistakes incurred during the translation.

H&M group Implementation Toolkit for Chemical Restrictions – Apparel/Accessories/Footwear and Home Interior Textile Products aims to assist suppliers to
work proactively with fulfilling H&M group Chemical Restrictions. It contains information about restricted substances, chemical testing, frequently asked
questions, documentation and test methods. The information in this document does not claim to be complete. The suppliers have the responsibility to make
sure that all products supplied to the H&M group fully comply with the latest version of H&M group Chemical Restrictions. This is committed by accepting
H&M Standard Purchase Conditions (SPC 2).

Please, see the table below to find your local contact for any issues regarding chemicals.

Country / City E-mail

Bangladesh/ Dhaka [email protected]

China/Guangzhou [email protected]

China/ Shanghai apparel/soft products [email protected]

China/ Shanghai accessories/ footwear [email protected]

India/ New Delhi [email protected]

India/ Bangalore [email protected]

Indonesia/ Jakarta [email protected]

Korea/ Seoul [email protected]

Pakistan/ Karachi [email protected]

Romania/ Bucharest [email protected]

Turkey/ Istanbul [email protected]

2 Download the document at the H&M group Supplier Portal

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If you have technical questions regarding H&M group Chemical Restrictions, its future development, test methods or the background for the restrictions,
please contact Global Product Compliance Department:

Country / City E-mail / Phone

Sweden / Stockholm Mail: [email protected]

Phone: + 46 8 796 55 00

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BACKGROUND
Products for all brands in the H&M group are produced with great consideration for customers’ health as well as for the environment. Our strategy is to
practice the precautionary principle in our work with regards to monitoring and restricting chemicals in our products. Therefore, we often go further than
the law demands.

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES GUIDE

RISK MATRIX
(adapted from AFIRM RSL, http://afirm-group.com/afirm-rsl/)
The Risk Matrix highlights the restricted substance risks associated with different fibres and materials, and is presented as a guidance tool. It is based on the
AFIRM group’s many years of experience in manufacturing and in managing restricted substances across a wide range of materials. The aim is to provide
information on those substances that have historically been deliberately used or found as a reagent/contaminant in different materials. It uses the following
colour code:

Note! The Risk Matrix below has been updated to better reflect the H&M group Chemical Restrictions and the experiences of chemical management within
the group. However, the tables below may not contain all restricted substances in H&M group Chemical Restrictions. Also, substances listed below may have
other uses and thus be present in other materials. Therefore, the tables do not claim to be complete.

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Foams, Rubber (Natural

Including horns, bones,
cork, wood, paper and

and Synthetic Rubber)

Ceramics, Porcelain

Feathers and Down

Coatings and Prints

Polymers, Plastics,
with fiber backing

Natural Materials
Artificial Leather
Synthetic Fibers

Natural Leather
Blended Fibers
Natural Fibers

and Glass
Metal
straw

Glue
Substances

Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol 23

Alkylphenols (APs) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1
(APEOs), including all isomers
Azo-amines 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Bisphenol-A 34 3 3 2 3 2 3
Chlorinated Paraffins, SCCP (C10-C13) and MCCP 3 3 3 3 1 3 3 2
(C14-C17)
Chlorophenols (Tri-, Tetra-, and 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Pentachlorophenols)
Chlororganic Carriers 2 2 3
Cyclic siloxanes 2 2 3 3 2 2 2
Dimethylformamide (DMFa) 3 2 2 2 2
Dimethylfumarate (DMFu) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Dyes, Forbidden and Disperse 2 2 2 2
Dyes, Navy Blue 3 3 3 3
Flame Retardants 3 (If finish is applied)
Formaldehyde 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1
Heavy Metals, Chromium VI 3 1

3 ‘Red Risk-level 1’ applies only to Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate (EVA) foam.

4 Applies to cotton and polyester blend

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Foams, Rubber (Natural

Including horns, bones,
cork, wood, paper and

and Synthetic Rubber)

Ceramics, Porcelain

Feathers and Down

Coatings and Prints

Polymers, Plastics,
with fiber backing

Natural Materials
Artificial Leather
Synthetic Fibers

Natural Leather
Blended Fibers
Natural Fibers

and Glass
Metal
straw

Glue
Substances

Heavy Metals, Nickel Release 3 1

Heavy Metals, Lead (pb) Total 3 3 3 3 3 2 3 35 2 2
Heavy Metals, Additional Total (Cd, Hg, Sb & As) 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 2 2 3
Heavy Metals, Extractable 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2
N-Nitrosamines 2
Organotin Compounds 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Ortho-phenylphenol (OPP) 2 2 2 2 2 2
Ozone-depleting Substances 3

Per- and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFC/PFAS) 2 (If water- or stain-repellant finish is applied)

Pesticides, Agricultural 3 3 3
pH value 1 1 1 1 1 1
Phthalates 1 1 1 1
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) 3 3 3 1 1 1 1
Styrene Monomer 3 2 6

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

5
Total Lead in foams is ‘Orange Risk-level 2.’

6
Mainly styrene based polymers . Although polymers like “unsaturated polyester resin” are known to contain styrene.

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RISK MATRIX; PLASTICS AND RUBBER

See table below for specific information concerning presence of restricted chemicals in plastics and rubber materials.
Observe that this list does not claim to be complete.

Abbreviation list for plastics and rubber

ABS– Acrylonitrile butylene styrene
EVA/PEVA – Ethylenevinylacetate / Polyethylenevinylacetate
PA – Polyamide
PC – Polycarbonate
PE – Polyethylene
PET – Polyethylene terephthalate
PMMA - Poly(methyl methacrylate)
PP – Polypropylene
PS – Polystyrene
PU – Polyurethane
TPE - Thermoplastic elastomer
TPU - Thermoplastic polyurethane

styrene-butadiene

Rubber synthetic;
Rubber natural +
EVA/PEVA

Melamine

TPE, TPU
Acetate

PMMA
ABS

PET
Substances

PU
PA

PP
PC

PE

PS
Acetophenone and 2-phenyl-2-propanol ●
BPA ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Chloroparaffins ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
DMF (Dimethylformamide) ●

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styrene-butadiene

Rubber synthetic;
Rubber natural +
EVA/PEVA

Melamine

TPE, TPU
Acetate

PMMA
ABS

PET
Substances

PU
PA

PP
PC

PE

PS
Flame retardants ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Formaldehyde ●
Isocyanates ●
Extractable Metals
●7
(Sb, As, Ba, Cr, Se)
Total Metals
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
(Cd, Pb, Hg)
Nickel ● ●
N-Nitrosamines ● ●
Organotin compounds ● ●
Pesticides ●
Phenols (PCP, TeCP) ● ●
Phthalates ● ● ● ● ● ●
PAHs ● ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ●8 ● ●
PCB, PCT ● ●
PVC ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Styrene ● ● ●
VOC ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

7Only Antimony (Sb) relevant.

8If dark coloured.

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FURTHER GUIDANCE TO THE RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES

The below table provides information about the field of application and description of the restricted substances. This information is of use in the proactive
work on how to avoid restricted substances. Please note that the table does not claim to be complete; there might be other fields of application for a
substance than mentioned.

For many of the substances below, more information and guidance can be found in the AFIRM Chemical Information Sheets, retrieved on the following
webpage: http://afirm-group.com/english-information-sheets/. Please note that, although the AFIRM Information Sheets come highly recommended from
H&M group for guidance purposes, they are mainly intended for use together with the AFIRM RSL, which in many ways is essentially different from the H&M
group RSL for Apparel, Accessories, Footwear and Home Interior Textile Products.

Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Acetophenone and 2- Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol are potential by-products (which could give a very strong smell to the final product) that may be
phenyl-2-propanol found in Ethyl-vinyl-acetate (EVA) foams when specific peroxide initiators are in use. There are few direct uses of acetophenone or 2-
phenyl-2-propanol in the supply chain:
▪ Ethyl-vinyl-acetate (EVA) foams produced with dicumyl peroxide (DCP, CAS: 98-86-2) as a crosslinking initiator. DCP should not be used
and alternatives are available.
▪ Fragrances and solvents, cleaners

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Alkylphenol Ethoxylates Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs) are a group of non-ionic surfactants including: Nonylphenolethoxylates (NPE), Nonylphenol (NP),
(APEOs) /Alkylphenols Octylphenoletoxylates (OPE) and Octylphenol (OP). NPEs and OPEs degrade to NP and OP respectively.
(APs)
APEOs may be found in:
 Industrial laundry detergent
 Scouring agents, e.g. wool and leather
 Wetting agents
 Softeners
 Spinning oils (yarn and fabric)
 Emulsifiers/dispersing agents for dyes and prints
 Impregnating agents
 Degreasing agents for leather hides
 Leather-finishing preparations
 De-gumming agents for silk production
 Dyes and pigments preparations
 Polyester padding
 Down/feather fillings
 Binders for interlinings
 Facility cleaning products

APs may be found in:

 Outsole materials of shoes
 Plastic and rubber components of apparel, footwear and accessories
 Jelly sandals

Antibacterial/antimicrobial Substances used for antibacterial/antimicrobial treatments include silver (Ag), its salts and compounds, triclocarban and triclosan. These
treatments chemicals are added for their ability to kill microbes and are sometimes marketed as anti-odour due to their intrinsic odour prevention.

The H&M group bans all uses of antibacterial/antimicrobial treatments in finished products.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Bisphenol-A (BPA) Bisphenol A (A=acetone) (BPA) occurs in its pure form as white flakes with a faint phenol-like smell. BPA is used in the production of epoxy
resins, glues and polycarbonate plastics. It can also be used in production of flame retardants (e.g. TBBPA) and in production and
processing for some plastic materials, for example PVC, PP, PE, etc. It can be used as an antioxidant or UV-stabilizer in plastic materials.
Examples of plastic materials and resins containing BPA:
 Polycarbonate plastics (PC-plastic)
 Polyethersulphone/polysulphone (PES)
 Epoxy resins
 Phenoxy resins
 Polyarylate resins

It may also be found as a contaminant in synthetic textile materials like polyester and polyester blends. It can also be found in recycled
materials, for example recycled paper and plastic materials.

RSL clarification: For children’s products, test for total amount of BPA is recommended.

Cationic Surfactants Distearyldimethyl ammouniumchloride (DSDMAC), ditallowdimethylammonium (DTDMAC) and di(hydrogenated

(DSDMAC, DTDMAC, tallow)dimethylammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) belongs to the group “quarternary ammonium salts” and are used as cationic surfactants.
DHTDMAC) DSDMAC, DTDMAC, DHTDMAC may be found in:
 Levelling agents (retarders) for basic (cationic) dyes, mostly used for acrylic textiles (PAN)
 Fixation of direct dyes, mostly used for cotton, rayon (viscose), linen, silk and polyamide
 Surfactants, emulsifiers
 Antistatic agents and softeners
 Water repellent agents

Chlorinated Bleaching The H&M group MRSL bans the use of chlorinated bleaching agents. 9
Agents
Alternatives to chlorinated bleaching agents: ozone, hydrogen peroxide or enzymes may be used in alternative methods.

9 Finishing treatments with chlorinated bleaching agents can only be used in denim production.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Chlorinated Organic Chlorinated Organic Carriers (COC) are a group of chemicals consisting of various chlorobenzenes, chloroxylenes, chloronaphthalenes and
Carriers chlorotoluenes. COC are typically used as intermediates in the synthesis of other chemicals as well as dye carriers and leveling agents. COC
may be present as impurities in chemical formulations of dyestuffs and solvents. May be found in:
 Dye carriers and levelling agents
 Dyes and auxiliaries
 Textiles (especially polyester and polyester blends)
 Fumigants, biocides, insecticides, herbicides
 Optical brighteners

Chlorinated Paraffins: Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP and MCCP) are hydrocarbons with a straight carbon chain. SCCP and MCCP may be used as a flame retardant
Short chained (SCCP) or plastisiser in plastics, rubber, inks, paints, adhesives and surface coatings. They may also be found as impurities in fat-
Medium chained (MCCP) liquoring agents in leather production.
May be found in:
 Rubber
 Adhesives
 Prints and lacquers
 Coatings
 Plasticisers
 Fat-liquoring agents
 leather

Chlorophenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP), Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), Trichlorophenol (TrCP) and their salts & esters. Chlorophenols are a group of man-
made chemicals that historically have been used as pesticides or converted into pesticides, as well as used as preservatives to protect
leather and textile materials from fungi and bacteria during storage and transport. They have a strong, medicinal taste and smell. May be
found in:
 Preservatives for textile and leather materials
 Pesticides
 Dyes (e.g. disperse dyes)
 Print pastes

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Cyanoacrylate-based Adhesives that are very fast drying. These adhesives include, but are not limited, to ethyl cyanoacrylate, methyl cyanoacrylate and
adhesives isopropyl cyanoacrylate.

All cyanoacrylate-based adhesives in the finished product that might come into contact with skin for any brand in H&M group are
forbidden.

Cyclic siloxanes Decamethylyclopentasiloxane (D5) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4); may be found in textile softeners, water repellent finishes etc.

Dimethylformamide DMF is a colourless, fishy smelling liquid which is miscible with water and many other organic solvents. DMF is a solvent used in plastics,
(DMFa) rubber and in the production of polyurethane (PU) coated materials, such as synthetic leathers. Water-based PU does not contain DMF
and is therefore preferable. DMF could be present as contaminant in water based PU.

Dimethylfumarate Dimethylfumarate (DMFu) is an anti-mould agent used in sachets in packaging to prevent the build-up of mould, especially during
(DMFu) shipping.
May be found in:
 Leather products
 Desiccant sachets and pads

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Discolouration Some chemicals can react with light, oxygen or solvents and cause a discolouration of the product.

Phenolic yellowing is when a material under special circumstances is turning yellow. Risky materials are:
 Polyamide and polyamide/elastane blends
 Embroidery
 Polyester
 Cotton
The main reason is the presence of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT, CAS no. 128-37-0). BHT is a chemical which is often present in plastic
bags, elastane, polyurethane foam (e.g. in bras) etc. BHT is not yellow itself, but it could be converted by pollution (NOx) assisted by amino
groups (e.g. of polyamide, elastane and softeners) and then become yellow. Polyamide/elastane blends are especially sensitive and should
be protected by special anti-yellowing chemicals. If done properly, the fabric will not turn yellow, even if BHT is present. Heat setting such
as moulding of bra cups at high temperature is a possible risk if the process it not controlled correctly and/or the fabric is not protected
with anti-yellowing chemicals.

Precautions to be taken to avoid phenolic yellowing:

- Avoid mixing many different qualities within one garment.
- Keep the amount of BHT and similar chemicals at a minimum in packaging material, polyurethane foam, polyamide, elastane etc.
Investigate the possibility to find BHT-free foam.
- Treat all parts with anti-yellowing chemical products to make them less sensitive to phenolic yellowing. Both white and light-coloured
fabric/trims shall be treated.
- Make sure to finish the fabric and all trims at a low pH value using a non-volatile acid, such as citric acid. Final pH shall be 4.0-5.5.
- All factories and storage facilities must be kept clean and well ventilated to avoid excess amounts of NOx (nitrogen oxide gases).

Dyes and Dye related Compounds

Azo Dyes and Pigments The azo structure is a molecular structure contained in many dyes. Some azo dyes have the potential to release carcinogenic aromatic
amine(s) when reductive cleavage occurs.
May be found in:
 Textiles
 Leather
 Synthetic leather
 Plastics
 Paper

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Disperse Dyes Disperse dyes are a class of water-insoluble dyes that penetrate synthetic fibres and are held in place by physical forces without forming
chemical bonds. May be found in:
 Dyed textiles (especially synthetic fibres/synthetic blends)

Other Dyes Acid, basic, direct and solvent dyes represent a broad class of organic dyestuffs used to dye natural and synthetic fibres. May be found in:
including Navy blue or  Animal based fibres (wool, alpaca, silk, etc.)
Bluecolorant  Plant based fibres (cotton, linen, hemp, etc.)
(Index no: 611-070-00-2)  Synthetic fibres (polyamide, acrylic, others)
(EC no: 405-665-4)  Polymer applications (solvent dyes)

Navy blue dye is a specific dye mixture used to dye leather and textiles.

Aniline Aniline is an organic compound that is used as an intermediate to make dyes (its use is especially prevalent in the dyeing of leather), as an
antioxidant in the manufacture of rubber and to make isocyanates for the production of polyurethanes, that in turn have a wide range of
uses from paints to adhesives.

Flame Retardants Flame retardants are chemicals added to products to meet established flammability standards by decreasing the ability of materials to
ignite. They are typically used in a wide range of consumer products such as upholstered furniture, carpets and draperies, automotive
interior textiles and plastics, consumer electronics, and baby products. Flame retardants are generally banned in all products within the
H&M group. May be found in:
 Adhesives and sealants
 Inks, coatings and foam
 Plastics
 Textile articles

Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is a chemical with widespread uses, occurring naturally at low levels in foods and used in a variety of synthetic
preparations. At room temperature, formaldehyde is a colourless, flammable gas that has a distinct, pungent smell. May be found in:
 Wrinkle free (permanent press, easy care, non-iron), stiffen [crinkle (3D)], stain resistant finishing
 Resins or coatings applications using phenolic-, urea-, melamine-formaldehyde and PU resins
 Tinting and over-dye in spraying and dipping
 Prints such as flock and discharge; heat transfer
 Adhesives and glue applications including patching
 Odour control

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Glues, pre-applied on Glues used to create a fastening/sticky surface for applications such as nail and face stickers. These glues are pre-applied on the products
Face/Body/Nail and Hair previous to sale.
Stickers
Glues must follow the specific product requirements listed in the RSL for Apparel, Accessories, Footwear, Home Interior Textile Products,
see specific requirements laid down under heading named “Glues, pre-applied on Face/Body/Nail and Hair Stickers”. Examples of the
requirements are listed below:
• The chemical composition must be formulated as to avoid any classification according to the CLP regulation. Chemical content
must comply with H&M group Chemical Restrictions for Cosmetic Products.
• A CPSR needs to be performed on the glue for its intended function and use.

Isocyanates Isocyanates are used in the production of polyurethane-based finishes, coatings, plastics and foams.

Metals, total and extractable

Antimony (Sb) Antimony is a half-metal element; it can be present as a pure metal, as non-metal or as antimony compounds, e.g., salts. May be found in:
 Catalyst in polymerisation of polyester
 Flame retardants
 Pigments and dyes
 Metal alloys and coatings

Arsenic (As) Arsenic is a half-metal element. It can be present as a pure metal, as non-metal or as arsenic compounds e.g. salts. May be found in:
 Preservatives
 Pigments
 Pesticides
 Defoliants for cotton
 In leather tanning process

Metallic arsenic can be used in alloys with lead for reduction of corrosion. Arsenic trioxide has previously been used as a refining agent in
special glass production.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Barium (Ba) Barium is a member of the alkaline earth metals. It is never found in nature in its pure form, due to its reactivity with air or in water
therefore the most common naturally occurring minerals of barium are barium sulfate and barium carbonate. May be found in:
 Pigments for inks
 Plastics
 Surface coatings, as well as in
 Dyeing
 Mordants
 Textile finishes
 Leather tanning

Cadmium (Cd) Cadmium is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as Cadmium compounds e.g. salts. May be found in:
 Pigments
 Stabiliser for plastics, for example in HDPE, polycarbonate, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), nylon, ABS, PMMA, silicones, and
Polyphenylene Oxide (PPO).
 Catalyst in EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate).
 Fertilisers and biocides
 Paints (e.g. Surface paint surface paints on zippers and buttons)
 Ceramics and glaze

Cadmium metal can be used in alloys and for plating of other metals.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Chromium (Cr) Chromium is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as Chromium compounds e.g. salts. (See also Chromium VI). May be
found in:
 Metal complex and acid dyes, brilliant/dark dyes (wood, silk, animal fibres, PA)
 Fixation of dyes (mordant dyes)
 Leather tanning
 Metal alloys and coatings
 Wood preservatives

H&M group guidelines:

Textiles (except polyamide and polyamide blends)
Never use dyes based on, or containing Cr. Never use Cr-fixation of dyes (mordant dyes). There are reactive dyes and acid dyes suitable for
wool fibres. Preferred dyes depend on the colour and the fibre.

Polyamide and polyamide blends (>5 % PA)

 Most important for dark shades
 Consult your dye stuff supplier to make sure the dye is bound strongly enough and that you’re not using more Cr than needed
 Always test extractable Cr.

Chromium VI (Cr6+) Cr (VI) is the chromium element in its 6+ oxidation state. Hexavalent chromium can occur naturally in the environment from the erosion of
natural chromium deposits or produced during industrial processes. Chromium VI can naturally occur from the transformation of Cr (III)
under the right conditions such as exposure to UV light, high temperatures, low humidity, low pH-Values, or oxidizing agents. Chromium,
in this oxidation state, can be extremely stable and persistent in the aquatic environment. May be found in:
 Tanned natural leather
 Pigments and dyes (especially those used in wool).

Cobalt (Co) Cobalt is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as cobalt compounds e.g. salts. May be found in:
 Pigments and in dyestuff (metal-complex dyes and acid dyes)
 Metal alloys.

Copper (Cu) Copper is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as copper compounds e.g. salts. May be found in:
 Pigments and dyes, especially turquoise, blue and green shades (reactive, direct, pigments).
 Alloys, for example brass.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Lead (Pb) Lead is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as lead compounds e.g. salts. May be found in, or used as:
 Stabilizer for plastic.
 Paints and surface coatings for plastic, leather, wood and metal.

Examples of coated or painted products are zippers, beads and buttons. Pigments based on lead could be used in for example plastic
buttons. Lead metal is used in solder alloys and can be present in other alloys. Soldering material free or low in lead is always preferable.

Mercury (Hg) Mercury is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as mercury compounds e.g. salts. May be found in:
 Pesticides
 Contamination in caustic soda (NaOH)
 Paints, e.g. surface paints on zippers and buttons.

Nickel (Ni) Nickel is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as nickel compounds e.g. salts.

Nickel metal is mainly used for:

 Plating of alloys
 Improving the corrosion resistance in alloys
 Improving the hardness of alloys
 Production of stainless steel.

Nickel can be also present as one of the galvanized metallic layers when a precious metal finishing (such as Au, Ag or Pd) is required,
especially in those metallic adornment for luxury leather and apparel goods. Defects in the final precious metal layers can cause a
potential for nickel release. Nickel is also commonly used in the process of electroplating of plastics.

Nickel may also be found in screen printed textiles, due to contaminations from e.g., nickel screen and/or nickel alloy stirrer.

Certain dyestuffs contain complex-bound nickel. Both nickel metal and nickel compounds can occur as an impurity in pigments and alloys.

Selenium (Se) Selenium is a half-metal element that is rarely found in its pure state. It is an ingredient in pigments that are used in plastics, paints,
enamels, inks, and rubber and can also be found in textiles.

Mineral Oil Mineral oil could be used as filling liquid for any products like compasses, phone case, snow globes etc.
It can also be used as a softener/lubricant in plastics and rubber.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Mould Mould spores are present everywhere and the infection of fabrics/yarn/accessories/garments combined with storage/transportation in a
humid and/or dirty environment can create severe damage to the products. It is important to keep storage rooms and production facilities
clean to prevent mould.

Nanomaterials ‘Nanomaterial’ means a natural, incidental or manufactured material containing particles, in an unbound state or as an aggregate or as an
agglomerate and where, for 50 % or more of the particles in the number size distribution, one or more external dimensions is in the size
range 1 nm-100 nm 10. Please note that all nanomaterials in the finished product for any brand in H&M group are banned.

N-Nitrosamines N-Nitrosamines can be formed as a by-product in the production of rubber.

Organotin Compounds Organotin compounds (organotins) are substances composed of tin directly bound to different organic groups. Generally, the mono-, di-,
or tri-substituted organotins have the most applications to the apparel and footwear industry. May be found in:
 PVC, silicone
 PU coatings
 Polyester
 Plastic trims
 Textiles
 Leather
 Screen prints
 Biocides and pesticides
 Metallic glitter

Per- and polyfluorinated Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFC/PFAS) belong to the perfluoroalkyl family of substances. PFC/PFAS are substances with
compounds (PFC/PFAS) special properties including fire resistance and oil, stain, grease, and water repellency that have hundreds of important manufacturing and
industrial applications. PFC/PFAS include PFOS, PFOA, fluorotelomers (FTOH), C6/C8 compounds and polyfluorinated compounds (fully or
partially fluorinated). May be found in:
 Textile or leather finishes for water, oil, or stain repellency
 Paper protection (e.g. oil resistant)
 Performance chemicals (fire-fighting foams, mining/oil well surfactants, floor polishes, insecticides)
 Injection moulded products
 Food contact materials (cups, containers)

10 EUROPEAN COMMISSION RECOMMENDATION of 18 October 2011 on the definition of nanomaterial (2011/696/EU)

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Pesticides Pesticides are substances or mixtures of substances intended for preventing, destroying, repelling, or mitigating any pest. Pesticides can
also include substances or mixtures of substances intended for use as a plant regulator, defoliant, or desiccant. May be found in residual
amounts in:
 Plant based fibres (primarily cotton, but potentially exists in hemp, sisal, linen etc.)
 Animal based fibres
 Animal hides/skins

pH-value pH-value is a characteristic number, ranging from pH 1 to pH 14, which indirectly shows the content of acidic or alkaline substance in a
product. pH-values less than 7 indicate source of acidic substances, and values greater than 7 indicate sources of alkaline substances. To
avoid irritation or chemical burns to the skin, the pH value of products must be in the range of human skin; approximately pH 5.5. Limits
are specified in the H&M group Restricted Substance List – Apparel |Accessories | Footwear | Home Interior Textile Products.

Various chemicals and processes in the textile- and garment production require certain pH-values, e.g. mercerisation and dyeing of cotton
involves the use of chemicals with high pH-values. Garment washing and finishing will also affect the final pH-value.

4-Phenylcyclohexene 4-Phenylcyclohexene is an organic semi-volatile compound that is often found to be emitted from carpets and mats.

Phenols Phenols (including o-Phenylphenol (OPP) are organic and aromatic compounds classified as an alcohol. They are used in the preparation of
resins dyes, lubricants and plastics.

o-Phenylphenol (OPP) can be used for its preservative properties in leather or as a carrier in dyeing processes 11.

11See also the entry for Preservative Agents

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Phthalates Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compound commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They are
sometimes used to facilitate the moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature. Phthalates are typically mixed into polymers as
an external plasticizer with no chemical bonding. As a result, phthalates may migrate out of the material resulting in exposure to people or
the environment. May be found in:
 Print pastes
 Screen print & heat transfer inks
 Adhesives
 Plastic (not only PVC)
 Cellulose acetate (CA)
 Celluose propionate (CP)
 Coatings (e.g. polyurethane)
 Plastic buttons
 Plastic sleevings
 Silicone
 Solvents
 Insecticides

If phthalates are used in other productions, there is always a risk for cross-contamination.

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Polyaromatic Hydrocarbons Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) are naturally occurring substances composed of multiple carbon and hydrogen aromatic rings.
(PAH) They are found in fossil fuels and are often formed during incomplete combustion of organic materials. PAH have a characteristic smell
similar to that of car tires or asphalt. PAH are typically present in final products as impurities and are not intentionally added. May be
found in:
 Rubber & plastic components
 Footwear outsoles
 Lacquers and coatings
 Recycled materials
 Carbon black pigments/dyestuff
 Extender oils/softeners
 Lubricants
 Printing pastes
 Dye dispersing agents (Naphthalene)
 Textiles (Naphthalene)

Oil residues containing PAHs are added to rubber and plastics as a softener or extender. Therefore, PAHs are risky in rubber, plastics,
lacquers, foam (padding) and coatings.

Clean mineral oils should be used in the rubber to avoid PAHs.

Polychlorinated Biphenyles PCBs and PCTs are large molecules containing many chlorine atoms.
(PCBs)
PCBs/PCTs are mainly used as pesticides but also as softeners, carriers and flame retardants.
Polychlorinated Triphenyles
(PCTs)
Polyvinylchloride (PVC) PVC and similar chlorinated polymers (i.e. Polyvinylchloride and Polychloroprene) are plastics that can be soft or hard, transparent or
coloured. PVC is often plasticized with substances like phthalates.

In the apparel, footwear and accessories industry, PVC is used to make plastic accessories such as badges, sequins and zip pullers, stickers
or as coating on textiles for rainwear and prints. Rigid plastic bags, fake leather bags and garments (e.g. coats) can also be made out of
PVC. Various prints might also be made out of PVC.

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Preservative Agents Preservative agents restricted for use in leather products, soft home interior products/interior products and bed linen include:
 o-Phenylphenol (OPP)
 4-chloro-3-methylphenol (PCMC)
 2-(thiocyanomethylthio)-benzothiazole (TCMTB)
 2-octylisothiazol-3(2H)-one (OIT)

REACH SVHC Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and
Restriction of Chemicals. Check the ECHA website for the updated list 12

Scented Products All scented children’s products (up to the age of 14) must undergo a risk assessment to ensure that they are not harmful for children
during reasonably foreseeable use and potential abuse.

All fragranced oils must fulfil the relevant International Fragrance Association’s (IFRA) standard.

All fragrance allergens, as defined in EU Cosmetic Regulation13, must be below 0.001% (w/w) in the homogenous scented material of the
product. For children’s products, the allergen bans and restrictions in EU Toy Safety Directive14 must be applied.

12 https://echa.europa.eu/candidate-list-table
13 Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
14 Directive 2009/48/EC on the safety of toys

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Restricted Substances Description and Field of Application

Styrene Styrene is a clear and colourless liquid derived from petroleum and natural gas by-products. The styrene monomer is a building block to
produce several plastics and rubbers. Examples of these are:
 Polystyrene (PS)
 High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS)
 Acrylonitrile Styrene (AS)
 Acrylonitrile-Butadiene Styrene (ABS)
 Styrene-Butadiene-Styrene (SBS)
 Styrene Acrylonitrile resin (SAN)
 Expanded Polystyrene (XPS)

It can also be used as an additive and in the production of:

 Unsaturated polyester resin (UPR)

Polystyrene (PS) is a very brittle polymer. A tougher product can be made by polymerizing styrene monomer with poly(buta-1,3-diene)
rubber, forming HIPS. SAN is often blended with ABS to produce a very rigid polymer. XPS has very good thermal insulation and shock
absorbing properties.

Volatile Organic Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are a set of naturally occurring and human-made chemicals that have a high vapour pressure at room
Compounds, (VOC) temperature.

VOCs are ingredients in a wide variety of commercial, industrial, and residential products. Some VOCs are used in adhesives, fabric and
leather coatings, screen print inks, and synthetic leather. VOC may be found as impurities in polystyrene-based resins used in the
production of plastic trims. In addition, VOCs may be used in processes such as dry cleaning, as well as finishing and degreasing or cleaning
operations. May be found in:
 Adhesives and glues
 Fabric printing inks
 Coating formulations
 Leather finishing formulations
 Plastic products (e.g. buttons)
 Rubber
 Synthetic leather
 Synthetic fibres (e.g., acrylic, elasthane etc.)

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CHEMICAL TESTS SAMPLING GUIDELINE

If specification on Test Request Form (TRF) differs from below, always follow TRF.

APEO 15
Coated fabric (e.g. rainwear) Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Fabric and leather
Test coating together with backing. Test fabric and print together. Test maximum three Test multicoloured garments without separating the
different colours together. colours.
Test individual material or mix by same/similar Combine equal amount of each colour
material. For large printed/coloured areas/items; Solid coloured garments shall be tested separately.
select 3 main colours and mix is as one sample.
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418

Azo Dyes and Pigments

Fabric and leather Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Embroidery
Test maximum 3 colours together. If the result is Test the fabric together with the print. Do not test white Test the embroidery together with the underlying
detected ≥ 5 mg/kg, separate and test each colour textiles or prints. fabric.
individually.
Do not test white (i.e. undyed) textiles. For colour-inseparable prints and patterns, it is
recommended to separate these into as distinctly
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418 different shades as possible for testing.

BPA
Fabric Plastic components
Test if coated or printed fabric PC plastic: test for extractable amount: 3 mg/kg
(discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter).
Other plastic: For both children’s and adult products, test for total amount: 0.2 mg/kg
Test the fabric together with the print/coating.
For decorative plastic components, sequins, beads and other plastic decorations, test for total amount: 0.2 mg/kg

Cationic Surfactants
Coated fabric (e.g. rainwear) Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Fabric
Test coating together with backing. Test fabric and print together. Test maximum three Test multicoloured garments without separating the
materials together. colours. Combine equal amount of each colour.

15 For testing of AP separate sample is recommended due to the low limit.

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Combine equal amount of each colour. Solid coloured garments shall be tested separately.

Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs and MCCPs)

Leather / PU / Soft plastics
Test maximum three like materials in a combined test.
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418

Chromium VI
Leather
Test each material separately.
Perform ageing test before analysing CrVI
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418

Footwear to be shipped to Turkey - All accessible and non-accessible parts of the footwear shall be tested.
All accessible and non-accessible parts of the footwear shall be tested, for example:
 outer sole
 side of sole
 inner sole
 sole with faux leather foam lining
 fabric at the side of the sole
 outer fabric
 brand label

See Frequently Asked Questions for further information.

Disperse Dyes
Fabric and hanger loops Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Embroidery
Test maximum 3 colours together. If the result is Test the fabric together with the print. Do not test white Test with underlying fabric.
detected ≥15 mg/kg, separate and test each colour textiles or white prints.
individually.
Mix colours as for fabric.
Do not test white (i.e. undyed) textiles.

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Formaldehyde
Product Print discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter
Test each material of the product separately (e.g. main material, print and fusing and binding). Test the fabric together with the print.
In prints (flocking, adhesive) no colour separation is
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418. necessary.

Metals (extractable)
Fabric and leather Plastic/rubber parts Metal
Separate colours and test shell fabric and lining Test colours and each homogenous part separately. Perform risk assessment to decide when relevant to
separately. For patterned fabrics (prints etc), if colour test for extractable metals in trims and accessories
separation is not possible: separate in patterns. made from metal materials.

Metals (total)
Fabric and leather Plastic/rubber parts Metal (except zipper)
Separate colours when possible, up to three colours Test colours separately and each homogenous part Test each homogenous part separately.
allowed. Test shell fabric and lining separately. For separately.
patterned fabrics (prints etc), if colour separation is
not possible: separate in patterns.

Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418

Surface coating Zipper

Three colours/pars/like materials can be tested Test bottom and top stoppers separately. Other parts
together. Remove surface coating from the product as specified on Test Request Form.
and test separately. If it’s a metal product, make sure
not to scrape of any metal.

Nickel release
Metal parts with prolonged skin contact 16 Non-metal parts with prolonged Metal parts without prolonged skin Piercing jewellery
skin contact contact
Test all components with prolonged skin For materials that are coated or For metal part that do not have Observe that the limit for pierced
contact separately. plated with metals or metal- prolonged skin contact, there is no need part are stricter than other part of
to test nickel extraction. jewellery.

16 Prolonged contact with skin is defined as 10 minutes on three or more occasions within two weeks or 30 minutes on 1 or more occasions within two weeks

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Examples of products/components considered containing coatings, it is important to

as having prolonged skin contact are: test for nickel. Hand held tools, e.g. scissors, are also Testing of pierced items must
 Necklace, wrist band, ring etc. exempt from the requirement. always be done according to EN
 Earring Examples like; 1811 at an external lab.
 Button  Electroplated plastic (e.g.
 Zipper Buttons) Test the “piercing part” and the
 Etc.  Jewellery/Accessories outer part separately. See Nickel
If the results are contradictory, the nickel  Zipper test routine for specified
release test result prevails over spot test.  Etc. procedure.

Metal frame glasses

Test all parts with prolonged skin contact separately at third part lab. Test also according to “H&M sunglass spot test” and report this result as well. Both tests should be
performed at a third party laboratory. If the results are contradictory, the nickel release test result prevails over testing with spot test.

Organotin Compounds
Coated fabric (e.g. rainwear) Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Plastic/rubber parts
Test coating together with backing (unless H&M Test fabric and print together. Test maximum 2 Test each material separately.
specifies differently). materials together. Combine equal amount of each
material.

PVC
Plastic/rubber parts and labels Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter
Test separately. If Beilstein test show green flame, Test with fabric. Specify on test request form that the print should be tested. Don’t separate colours. If Beilstein
but IR spectrum does not indicate PVC it is a pass. test show green flame, but IR spectrum does not indicate PVC, it is a pass.

Phthalates
Coated fabric (e.g. rainwear) Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter Plastic/rubber parts (e.g. buttons)
Follow standards for CPSC method and ISO 14389 Fabric and print should be tested together. The fabric Test components separately if possible.
respectively to determine if testing should be base weight should be deducted, follow standard ISO
performed with or without backing material. 14389. Both accessible and inaccessible parts should be
tested, except for bags where only accessible parts
Test both accessible and inaccessible parts. Test maximum three colours or materials together. are necessary to test.
Combine equal amount of each colour.

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Footwear to be shipped to Turkey - All accessible and non-accessible parts of the footwear shall be tested.
All accessible and non-accessible parts of the footwear shall be tested, for example:
 outer sole
 side of sole
 inner sole
 sole with faux leather foam lining
 fabric at the side of the sole
 outer fabric
 brand label
See Frequently Asked Questions for further information.

Phenols, o-Phenylphenol (OPP)

Fabric and leather Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter
Test three different materials together. Combine equal amount of each Test fabric and print together.
material.
Test maximum three different colours together. Combine equal amount of each colour.
Leather should be sampled according to ISO 2418.

pH-value
Fabric and leather Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter
Test each colour separately. Test each material separately. Test fabric and print together.
Fabric samples for testing need to be packed separately in plastic bags. Fabric samples for testing need to be packed separately in plastic bags.

Styrene
Plastic/rubber materials Prints discharge/flock/pigment/plastic/puff/foil/glitter
Test each materials/ polymer type separately. May be found in: Test fabric and print together.
 Polystyrene (PS)
 Acrylonitrile styrene (AS)
 Acrylonitrile-butadiene styrene (ABS)
 Styrene acrylonitrile resin (SAN)
 Unsaturated polyester resin (styrene can be used to reduce the
viscosity)
Observe that the list of materials above is not complete.

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CHEMICAL TESTING
It is clearly stated in H&M group Chemical Restrictions that the supplier has full responsibility for compliance between their products and H&M group
Chemical Restrictions. Compliance with the H&M group Chemical Restrictions is followed up by the H&M group through factory audits and chemical testing.
Products to be tested and tests to be performed by the H&M group are decided by the local H&M laboratory or by the H&M Global Product Compliance
Department. Testing is conducted 17 both randomly as well as based on risk assessment and past performance.

The H&M group only conducts tests out of their own initiative. The supplier pays for H&M group’s testing on placed orders. For development testing, the
H&M group pays. Below is a clarification on the routines and responsibilities.
Supplier Chemical Testing and Testing according to Risk Assessment
Suppliers will, for each style/order, get a risk assessment form filled out by the local H&M laboratory. In the risk assessment, there are a number of check
boxes for various restricted chemicals. There are also 3 checkboxes to choose from; risky, H&M and supplier. If the checkbox supplier is ticked, the supplier
shall perform tests for the selected chemicals and submit test reports to H&M group, together with the counter sample. If the checkbox H&M is ticked, the
supplier must send sample for testing to local H&M group.
Non Compliance
Any problems with regards to compliance with H&M group Chemical Restrictions must be reported to the H&M group immediately. Products that do not
comply with H&M group Chemical Restrictions will be rejected. For details, see Standard Purchase Conditions 18.
How to choose Laboratories for Chemical Tests
Business decisions are based on test results. Therefore, it is important that the data from the laboratories is reliable. Some examples of things to consider
when choosing a laboratory are:
- The laboratory must be approved by H&M group.
- The laboratory must hold relevant certifications or accreditations (e.g. ISO 17025).
- The laboratory must be able to perform the tests as described in the H&M group Chemical Restrictions.
- The laboratory must regularly participate in round-robin or blind sample correlation testing.
- The laboratory must have adequate turn around periods.
- The laboratory should make it clear if any of their tests are sub-contracted.

17This requirement is included in Quality Standards and Requirements

18 Download the document at H&M group Supplier Portal.

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COMMUNICATION IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN

- Forward H&M group Chemical Restrictions to all your subcontractors, accessory suppliers, dye
mills, print mills, tanneries, chemical suppliers etc. and make sure that they have the latest
updated version available (see the flow chart below).

H&M group Chemical SUPPLIER

Restrictions/Implementation Toolkit
/ QSR

For spot lifter and other minor chemicals

DYER, PRINTER, Raw Material Supplier
TANNER, Washing SUBCONTRACTOR (Trim, Yarn,
unit Accessories, etc.)

CHEMICAL MANUFACTURER

- Insist that the chemical supplier provides Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for all dyes, auxiliaries and
other chemical products used. SDS shall contain certain specified information presented in a
standardized way. Information about how a SDS should be structured and what it should contain
can be found in Appendix 1.

Study of the SDS can help to reveal whether the materials used are free from banned
substances. However, the content of any banned substances in the chemical product always
need to be verified in other ways, since SDS don’t have complete information about all
ingredients in the chemical product.

If the composition and information on ingredients is not provided in the SDS due to trade
secrets or confidential business information then this claim must fulfil relevant legislation in
GHS 19.

- Use dyestuffs, pigments and textile auxiliaries from reputable manufacturers, for example ETAD
members (www.etad.com).

19

http://www.chemsafetypro.com/Topics/GHS/confidential_business_info_SDSs_CBI_trade_secret_SDS_info_dis
closure.html

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- All chemical products should have properly labelled containers. Example of labelling
requirements can be found in Appendix 2.

- Make sure dye mills, print mills, tanneries, wash units have certificates from their chemical
suppliers stating that all their chemicals are in compliance with H&M group Chemical
Restrictions. An example of a certificate is can be found in Appendix 3.

- Check the H&M group Supplier Portal for “Positive list”. This is a list compiled by chemical
suppliers that point out which of their products fulfil Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals,
ZDHC 20.

- Information and help can also be found in AFIRM Toolkit, which can be found at AFIRM website
http://www.afirm-group.com/.

20“Zero Discharge of Hazardous Substances” is collaboration between brands to eliminate or substitute hazardous
chemicals in our supply chain. Please see http://www.roadmaptozero.com/ for more info.

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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Do not hesitate to contact the H&M group with any questions you might have. Below are answers to
some of the most frequent questions.

H&M group Chemical Restrictions

Why are substances restricted?
Some of the restricted substances are regulated by law and some are restricted due to concerns for
health and environment.

Will complying with H&M group Chemical Restrictions make my products more expensive/less
competitive?
H&M group Chemical Restrictions is part of the contract between H&M group and its suppliers. Every
time H&M group places an order, it is expected that the price includes compliance with H&M group
Chemical Restrictions. It is not appropriate to compare prices between compliant and non-compliant
products, since H&M group does not wish to buy non-compliant products, no matter the price.

Is H&M group recommending alternative substances?

In some cases, recommended alternatives might be available on request. If you are concerned that
you will not be able to comply with a certain restriction, always contact your local H&M group office
as early as possible. There might be a solution to your problem, but you should not rely on that. The
best is always if the supplier is working directly with chemical suppliers to find the best combination
of availability, performance and price.

How can we ensure compliance?

The fastest, cheapest and easiest way is to have total control over the substances used in the
production of your products. H&M group Chemical Restrictions must be handed over to your
subcontractors, such as dye mills, print mills, tanneries, trim suppliers etc. They should request their
chemical suppliers to supply them with chemical products that comply with H&M group Chemical
Restrictions. Reputable chemical suppliers can submit certificates stating compliance. Furthermore,
tests could be carried out for substances that for some reason are difficult to have control over.

Are there any guidelines for testing compliance of chemical products used in production?
Please see H&M group Chemical Restriction Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL), or contact H&M
Global Sustainability Department.

Are there any restrictions for sulphur dyes?

No, but experience has shown that sulphur dyed fabrics are likely to face problems during physical
testing (e.g., dry rubbing).

Why is it that H&M group can get a fail test result when our button suppliers guarantee them to be
lead free?
For lead, H&M is testing the total amount. It might be that your button supplier tests the extractable
amount which is a less strict test. For some eco labels, the requirement is extractable amount, but
H&M’s requirement is for the total amount.

Is it OK to use “ecological” PVC?

No. All PVC is banned from all H&M group products. The term ecological PVC generally refers to PVC
which is free from heavy metals and/or other additives.

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May I use Cr-dyes for H&M group products?

There are generally two types of Cr-dyes; metal-complex and mordant dyes. Except for polyamide,
polyamide blends, these dyes may not be used when producing H&M group products. In the case of
polyamide and polyamide blends, Cr-dyes may be used as long as H&M group’s limit for extractable
chromium can be achieved.

May I use fluorescent dyes and pigments?

Yes, provided that the product can comply with H&M group Chemical Restrictions (e.g.
formaldehyde). The production also has to correspond to all H&M group requirements and
restrictions in all aspects. If you receive a quotation request and have doubts about this, always
contact H&M group directly.

Are there additional requirements to be followed for organic cotton?

All suppliers of organic cotton products must be certified by OCS 100 or GOTS and OCS Blend.
Contact your local H&M group office or H&M Global Sustainability Department in Stockholm for
more information.

Could soldering add to lead content in jewellery?

Yes, soldering material often contains lead. Lead free soldering materials are available and
recommended for use.

Can I use the AFIRM 21 RSL instead of H&M group Chemical Restrictions?
No. AFIRM RSL often stipulates strict limits, but not always as strict as the H&M group Chemical
Restrictions. No policy decisions like PFC ban or PVC ban are included. Also other parameters might
be excluded. All suppliers must comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions, which differs from AFIRM
RSL. http://www.afirm-group.com/

What are AFIRM Chemical Information Sheets and where can I find them?
AFIRM Chemical Information Sheets have been developed by AFIRM to assist the suppliers to fulfil
the RSL requirements. It contains a lot of information about restricted substances, how they can be
eliminated, corrective actions, which substances that can be found in specific materials, etc. The
Sheets are available in English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Spanish. You can find them on the AFIRM
website (free to download):
http://www.afirm-group.com/

What is the purpose of the Manufacturing Restricted Substance List, MRSL, and how does it differ
from the RSL?
The aim of the MRSL is to secure workers health, working environment and environment in the
production country. The RSL has the same purpose but also includes exposure limits for final
products.

What is the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme?

H&M cooperates with several other brands to drive positive change through eliminating the use and
discharge of hazardous chemicals in the product life cycle. For more information please see:
http://www.roadmaptozero.com/

21AFIRM – Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management Group

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H&M contacts
Who do I contact at my local H&M group office if I have questions?
A table that lists contact e-mail addresses for various POs regarding queries about restricted
chemicals and tests is included at the beginning of this document.
Testing and test methods
What test methods are to be used?
For each restricted substance in H&M Chemical Restrictions a test method is defined.

What testing is required by H&M group?

For each placed order, suppliers will get a risk assessment conducted by the local H&M group’s
laboratory. In this risk assessment, there is a part consisting of a number of check boxes for various
restricted chemicals. Suppliers are then requested to perform tests for the chemicals and materials
for which the subsequent boxes are ticked. The test reports should be submitted to the H&M group
together with the counter sample unless alternative arrangements are made.

Is H&M group testing?

The H&M group only performs tests on their own initiative. Products to be tested and tests to be
performed by H&M group are decided by the local H&M laboratory or by H&M Global Quality
Department. Testing is conducted randomly as well as based on risk assessment and past
performance. The supplier will also be required to carry out its own tests according to a risk
assessment conducted by the local H&M laboratory.

Who pays for testing?

The supplier pays for H&M group’s testing on placed orders. For development testing, H&M group
pays. H&M group’s testing will be focused on products and suppliers with a bad test record, which
will also be discussed with each supplier. Consequently, the supplier’s past test performance will
influence their test costs for new orders placed by H&M group.

What happens in the case of contradictory test results?

H&M group’s test result will prevail.

Are fail test results negotiable?

NO! Any product that fails in a chemical test will be treated as non-compliant, no matter how close
to the limit the result is. Anything else could mean that it would be illegal for H&M group to put that
product on the market. No exceptions are made.

What laboratories are used by H&M group?

H&M group only uses laboratories that, through inter-laboratory correlation tests, have shown to
give consistent and accurate test results. These laboratories are able to test according to required
test methods and are aware of H&M group Chemical Restrictions.

If the supplier has an internal lab, does H&M group accept chemical test reports from this lab (e.g.
formaldehyde test)?
No. H&M only accepts chemical test reports from laboratories that fulfil our strict requirements for
impartiality. For more info, please see the chapter Chemical Testing in this document, or contact
H&M group Global Quality Support, [email protected].

What happens in the case of non-compliance?

Any product that is found to be in non-compliance with H&M group Chemical Restrictions will be
rejected by the H&M group. The supplier will be liable for the cost of these products as well as any
extra costs caused by their non-compliance.

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If we are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified, why do we have to comply with H&M group Chemical
Restrictions?
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and H&M group Chemical Restrictions are NOT the same – the two
standards have significant differences. Some chemicals that are restricted by H&M group are not
included in Oeko-Tex Standard 100, and for other chemicals, the limits and/or test methods might
differ.

Marginally passed test results

Most test methods have a certain deviation that differs from test method to test method. Therefore,
test results that are only marginally a pass can be a risk. Good chemical input control, will in most
cases help secure that the levels of the restricted substance are as low as possible. Additionally, re-
tests can be valuable in order to assure that there is consistency in the bulk.

Footwear to be shipped to Turkey: Testing Procedure and Method

When checking for the presence of phthalates in footwear going to Turkey, the following CPSIA
method shall be used: CPSC-CH-C1001-09.3 Standard Operating Procedure for Determination of
Phthalates. The six Phthalates (DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DIDP, DNOP) regulated under REACH shall be
tested and they shall follow H&M limits.

When checking for the presence of dioctyltin (DOT) in footwear going to Turkey, ISO/TS 16179
Determination of organotin compounds in footwear materials shall be used.

When checking for the presence of chromium VI in footwear going to Turkey, ISO 17075-1
Determination of chromium(VI) content in leather shall be used.

The testing can be initiated by the H&M QA or by the supplier as long as the laboratory that is
approved by H&M is carrying out the analysis using the procedure and test method outlined above.

Footwear to be shipped to Turkey: Documentation

Each order, base and trail, must be accompanied with a test report that proves that the above
chemicals comply with Turkish regulation and therefore the product is deemed safe for health.
However, for orders consisting of 20 or less pairs, an exception to this rule can be made. This is due
to the unfeasibility of testing every component of the footwear for such small orders. Please note
that the testing requirement is controlled by the customs officials in Turkey.

Suppliers are exempted from providing reports for small quantity order (20 or less pairs) but they are
still responsible for securing but not from the responsibility of securing chemical risks. In case the
customs officials in Turkey stop H&M group orders due to chemical failure, regardless of the
quantities, suppliers are bound to take responsibility for it.

Choose one color of one style to do test if the material is the same for all the colors.

A picture of the tested shoe must be included in the test report. The test method and the tested
substances must also be specified in the report. The test report shall be attached as a document in
Castor for each order stated in the test report.

Footwear to be shipped to Turkey: Who pays for testing?

The supplier pays for all H&M group’s testing due to the Turkish regulation on placed orders.

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APPENDIX 1. SAFETY DATA SHEET (SDS)

The SDS for a chemical product should have the structure and content as specified in Article 31 of
REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 22 or in Globally Harmonized System of classification and
labelling of chemicals 23. The classification given in the SDS shall be carried out according to GHS or
CLP Regulation, Classification, Labelling and Packaging of substances and mixtures 24. The SDS shall be
dated and contain below headings as a minimum.

1) IDENTIFICATION OF THE SUBSTANCE/MIXTURE AND OF THE COMPANY/UNDERTAKING

2) HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION

3) COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS

4) FIRST-AID MEASURES

5) FIRE-FIGHTING MEASURES

6) ACCIDENTAL RELEASE MEASURES

7) HANDLING AND STORAGE

8) EXPOSURE CONTROLS/PERSONAL PROTECTION

9) PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

10) STABILITY AND REACTIVITY

11) TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION

12) ECOLOGICAL INFORMATION

13) DISPOSAL CONSIDERATIONS

14) TRANSPORT INFORMATION

15) REGULATORY INFORMATION

16) OTHER INFORMATION (GHS – OTHER INFORMATION INCLUDING INFORMATION ON

PREPARATION AND REVISION OF THE SDS)

22 http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/en/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:02006R1907-20160203
23 http://www.unece.org/trans/danger/publi/ghs/ghs_welcome_e.html
24 CLP Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures
http://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/chemicals/legislation/index_en.htm

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APPENDIX 2. LABELLING OF CHEMICAL PRODUCTS

Labelling requirements, which should be in conformity with national requirements, shall cover 25:

• PRODUCT NAME / TRADE NAME

• IDENTITY OF THE CHEMICAL PRODUCT
• HAZARD PICTOGRAMS
• SIGNAL WORD
• HAZARD STATEMENT
• PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES & PICTOGRAMS
• FIRST AID STATEMENTS
• SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION
• NOMINAL QUANTITY
• IDENTIFICATION OF THE BATCH
• NAME, ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER OF THE CHEMICAL SUPPLIER

An example of a (single language) label for a substance for supply and use, taking into account the
CLP terminology and pictograms, i.e. the product identifiers, the identity of the supplier, the signal
word, the hazard pictograms, the hazard and the precautionary statements. As the substance is not
supplied to the general public, the nominal quantity of the substance contained in the package is not
required on the label.

25In GHS (Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals) and/or CLP Regulation No 1272/2008
there is more information about labelling of chemical products.

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APPENDIX 3. COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATE

Below is an example of a certificate for compliance that certifies that a specific chemical product
complies with H&M group Chemical Restrictions.

Certificates from individual chemical suppliers can look different and have different wording
depending of legal aspects and the nature of their business.

Date: xxxx
CERTIFICATE

We herewith confirm that the following chemical product:

Name of chemical product

Fulfil the requirements of the current valid “H&M group Chemical Restrictions 2018 RSL”
Apparel/Accessories/Footwear/Home Interior Textile Products”, provided that the appropriate application and
consideration of our recommendations are followed.

Signature
Name
Title
Company name and address
Company Stamp

Chemical inventory

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