Build a Better Layout
Build a Better Layout
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I N F O R M AT I O N S TAT I O N
Build a better
layout
10tips to make
a better layout
1. The O gauge Lionel Lines/Santa Fe
layout took 10 years to complete and
reflects knowledge gained by the guys
who built it. They share some of their
acquired wisdom here, starting with the
primary point that you need to plan
everything in a logical, orderly manner
before beginning construction.
A and I began work on what became the O gauge Lionel Lines/Santa Fe layout.
With help from CTT staff members, who dutifully ventured to Dick’s subur-
ban basement every Tuesday night, we spent countless hours planning, thinking,
scheme, particu-
larly in the hun-
dreds of books and
thousands of arti-
changing our minds, and making false starts before finishing the layout.
Many of you saw photos of the layout in the November 2002 issue of CTT. Some cles that have been
of you even saw it in person during the 2002 Lionel Operating Train Society con- published on lay-
vention and the 2004 Lionel Collectors Club of America convention, both of which out planning and
were held in Milwaukee. building.
Looking back, were all of those countless hours spent planning, thinking, chang- Don’t be afraid
ing our minds, and making false starts simply time wasted? Not at all, because we to cross over the
ended up with a better toy train layout than if we had rushed through the process. tracks and investi-
We learned a lot, and along the way we wrote down this list of 10 tips to improve a gate what’s hap-
toy train layout, followed by 6 mistakes we made, so you won’t make them, too. pening in the HO
or N scale model
railroad commu-
Milk platform
Passenger terminal
6 Use care when laying track
Spend a disproportionate amount of
time laying track. There are no universal
rules about how and where to lay your
track. Still, using a metal straightedge is
helpful in laying long runs of straight
sections. Curves should be as smooth as
you can make them.
23' Yard
lead
Suburban
station Trolley
platform Milk platform Freight yard
Oil refinery
Upper level main
Trolley
Lower level
Continuous
backdrop
Six deadly sins tunnel portal near the locomotive-servicing yard, making
it totally inaccessible from any direction.
A few things not to imitate on your layout So far, only one mishap. The brakeman on the Lionel
no. 3424 Wabash car ignored the telltales and, after
1. EXCEEDING OUR REACH nearly 50 years of service, snapped off at the ankles. His
In the original plan, no track was to be more than 3 lifeless body was found inside the tunnel.
feet from the edge of the benchwork. When we con- After that, we positioned an Arttista nun at the top of
verted the plan into three-dimensional reality, some of the tunnel portal. She offers a silent prayer to ward off the
those distances got stretched a bit. Then we began entities from the Axis of Evil every time a locomotive enters
extending the benchwork outward and adding tracks. the dark portal. Hence, the name, “Hail Mary! Tunnel.”
Big mistake! Crawling around like a toddler on the sur-
face of a layout doesn’t get easier with time. 5. EMBEDDING SWITCH MACHINES
Keep track within reach of the edge of the benchwork, All our switch machines currently work and can be
or put in pop-up hatches for access. Someday you’ll be accessed for service if they should ever fail. All except one!
10 years older, and your backbone will be older, too. This upper-division switch in the track that runs close to the
Masonite backdrop had to be inserted into a hole in the
2. LOSING THE WIRING KEY backdrop because there was no other space for it.
While I was under the benchwork, stringing many col- This section of backdrop runs down the spine of the
ored wires to all points, Dick was recording the informa- layout. We installed another backdrop sheet behind the
tion in a notebook. We slavishly followed that routine to first to face the other side of the layout, and the switch
ensure that all wires were color-coded. machine got swallowed up between the two. Like the
Two years later, neither of us can remember where we track in the “Hail Mary! Tunnel,” there’s no way to get at
put the blasted notebook. the machine without tearing up the scenery.
LET’S FACE IT: MISTAKES ARE PART OF LIFE, and toy train enthusiasts aren’t immune to them. The
error of our ways often extends to our railways. If you build a layout, you’ll make mistakes. Guar-
anteed. Does that mean you’re best off to stay in your armchair, trains on the shelves, pining for
the day when you’ll finally figure out how to build the perfect layout? Of course not!
Go ahead and build a layout, so those classics or modern jewels can stretch their legs and
remind you of what so captivated you about the hobby in the first place.
But before you do, read this list of 10 layout mistakes to avoid. It’s drawn from experiences of
CTT staff members past and present, both on home layouts and visiting other layouts on the road.
It’s not a list of every possible mistake, of course, but it does include some of the most glaring.
(Which we’ve usually learned the hard way.)
1
Not finishing the room first. When and maybe even some carpet, will help cross braces. However, you probably
you’re eager to run trains, it’s make it a more hospitable environment don’t routinely crawl onto your dining
tempting to put off finishing the for you. room table to retrieve a stray boxcar or
ceiling, lights, wiring, or even the floor- A finished or semi-finished room plant dozens of miniature trees.
ing or walls in your layout room, which may even entice your family members Build your benchwork more like a
in most cases began life as an unfin- and friends to come join in the fun of railroad truss bridge, using angled
ished basement, attic, or garage. How- running toy trains! braces to help support the legs. While
ever, once you get your layout bolted you’re at it, check to make sure you’re
2
together, you won’t want to go back Bad benchwork. This “mistake” not leaving your plywood top unsup-
and hang that drywall, drop that ceil- actually has two extremes: wobbly ported for long spans. Eventually, it
ing, or wire those lights, and if you do, benchwork and “bomb-shelter” may warp and weaken, and when it
the process will be a nightmare. benchwork. The key is to build your lay- does you don’t want your body to be
Finish the room before beginning out’s foundation adequate to the task the straw that broke the layout’s back.
your benchwork, at least in those areas without needlessly wasting your time Finally, move the layout’s legs in from
that you won’t be able to reach later. A and money. the corners. Your shins will thank you.
layout room doesn’t have to resemble It’s tempting to make benchwork On the other hand, why overdo it?
the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles or the that’s similar to your dining room Benchwork that’s heavy in the wrong
lobby of the Ritz, but finished walls, table, with legs at the corners and no places adds little, if any, benefit to your
3
empire, and the cost per square foot is Wrong materials. Plywood tops for because they’re hard to remove and
certainly higher. Remember, you’re toy train layouts have remained have a tendency to loosen with vibra-
building a layout, not a bomb shelter. the standard for at least 50 years, tion.)
Legs made of 2 by 6s are too large with good reason. The competition If you’re really unfamiliar with build-
for almost any layout situation – 2 by 2s can’t beat it. ing benchwork, there are several good
are adequate. Likewise, unless you’re Homasote board is a good sound books that cover the basics, including
spanning more than 8 feet unsup- deadener but a lousy stand-alone sub- How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork:
ported, an L-girder made of a 1 by 2 stitute because it has almost no struc- 2nd Edition by Linn H. Westcott (Kalm-
strip screwed and glued atop a 1 by 3 tural strength. Masonite board might bach Publishing Co., no 12175).
strip is more than adequate. (L-girders make a nice, curvable backdrop, but try
4
look just like an “L” in cross section; using it for the top of a layout and your Inadequate layout wiring. The
one board forms the upright side of the trains will be so loud you’ll want to run number of ways you can go wrong
L and the other forms the base of the them from the backyard. when wiring your layout almost
L. When screwed and glued together, While you’re out buying plywood, equals the number of errors you’ll
it’s much stronger than you would pick up a few boxes of screws and a big make on a typical income tax form.
think.) For boards that run parallel to bottle of carpenter’s glue to help you Some examples? Using small gauge
the ground, a 1 by 4 can usually substi- piece your layout together. (Nails are wires or electrical switches that can’t
tute for a 2 by 4. not the best fasteners for benchwork, handle the load, wiring your layout on
6 9
one circuit, not color-coding your wire, Track directly on plywood. This is Bad vibrations. Big trains make
running your wires willy-nilly so they another entry in the “act in haste, big sounds so unless you enjoy the
resemble a rat’s nest, and twisting your repent at leisure” category. Taking constant roar (and have family
wires together at the joints rather than the time to add roadbed of some sort members who concur) do everything
soldering or using appropriate connec- will pay off visually, especially if you you can to deaden the vibrations.
tors. Choose any one of these favor an important element of realism. Roadbed helps, and carpet padding
approaches and you’ll be sorry. Choose You can use Vinylbed, cork roadbed, or foam floor underlayment helps even
two or more and you’ll regret not stick- a track-and-roadbed combination sys- more. Avoid screwing your track tightly
ing with that Marx wind-up. (Or per- tem like MTH Realtrax, strips of carpet to the benchwork – consider holding it
haps you’ll find it becomes your most pad, or other types of roadbed. in place with silicon caulk – and think
reliable motive power.) Remember, except in yards or on a few about using rubber ties or loose rubber
Find a good wiring book, such as Plains States branch lines, real railroad ballast. Consider acoustic improve-
Greenberg’s Wiring Your Lionel Layout, Vol. tracks are elevated a bit, so that’s how ments to your layout room, such as car-
1 and Vol. 2 by Peter H. Riddle (Kalm- trains look right to us. pet, a drape around the layout, or a
bach 1991, no. 10-7555 and no. 10- dropped ceiling with acoustic tile. Even
7
7560) and follow its directions. You’ll One too many tracks. The sharp slowing down your trains – admittedly,
be glad you did, and so will the fellows curves our trains can round and a scale influence – can help keep the
down at the volunteer fire department! the number of great accessories din down to a low roar.
available can make adding one more Do it right and you’ll find you can
5
No track plan. You don’t have to siding irresistible. But don’t give in to really enjoy that new sound system or
become the next Bob Sherman or this temptation. actually talk to someone while the
John Armstrong, but it’s worth Many a layout has gone from a trains are running. Plus, you’ll no
spending some time thinking about the coherent whole to a chaotic mess longer register on the seismograph
kind of layout you want before you start because an additional siding or two down at the university when you fire up
building it. removed any sense of realism, or even a Big Boy!
Ask yourself a few questions. Where made the layout hard to operate. Often
10
on the traditional-to-hi-rail continuum that last siding requires a switch located A tight fit. If you run your track
do you want the layout to fall? Do you right next to a curve, or a switch placed right up against a backdrop or
like accessories? Do you want lots of so that the main must take the curved out to the edge of the layout,
track? Do you want to attempt realistic route. If you just have to have the you’ll have a difficult time making a
railroad-style operation, or do you just newest accessory and your layout’s scene look convincing.
want to run trains around loops? Do already full, either bite the bullet and Leaving even a few inches for
you like to build scenery, or would you replace an existing accessory or use this scenery makes an enormous difference,
rather just unroll a backdrop, shake out as a reason to add extra surface area to and it also leaves more clearance for
some ground foam (or unroll some car- your layout. hefty equipment. On a smaller layout,
pet), and call it a layout? No one partic- you can add a bit of operating safety by
8
ular plan is right for everyone, but a lit- Inaccessibility. If you don’t have making a fascia along the front edge
tle bit of thought beforehand can bring easy access to all parts of your lay- that extends up an inch or so, but keep
a lot of pleasure later. out, you’ll eventually regret it. in mind that three or four inches of
Even if you’ve built strong benchwork, foreground space creates a better
don’t build a layout that fills so much scenic effect.
of the room that you have to If you have tracks on multiple levels,
climb on it regularly. the layout will look a lot better if it
Eventually something will doesn’t have a continuous sheer cliff or
get broken during one of retaining wall separating the levels. You
your trips, and it won’t can opt for a forest, a gentle hillside, or
necessarily be on the lay- a backdrop to create a more esthetically
out. Avoid the pain! pleasing layout.
Even though they’re We train guys sometimes look at the
normally associated with the locomotives so closely that we miss the
scale guys, shelf-type or distractions, such as the walls, windows,
shelf-and-peninsula lay- or water heater. If you want to know
outs really do work what your layout looks like to others,
well, especially if take a few snapshots and look at them.
you’re using O-72 or You may be surprised what you see.
larger curves. Use a Even someone who has memorized
scenic divider or backdrop this list of mistakes is prone to repeat
with one of these plans and them, find a new one, or both. None of
really watch those scale-sized us associated with CTT is perfect either.
trains come to life. If you don’t And you know what? We still have fun
want to or can’t use a shelf-type plan, with trains. You can, too – all you have
a pop-up hatch is worth considering. to do is get started, and pay just a little
While they do help, no one who has bit of attention as you go. T
crawled all the way over to one and
then realized he forgot a tool would For more layout building tips, go to
ever call them ideal. classtrain.com and click on “model trains.”
Troubleshooting
your “bad” wires
Attack wiring gremlins one at a time
T
HREE-RAILERS LOVE THE LIGHTS and motion of an operating layout.
That is, when everything works. A trouble-plagued pike can make
you wish for the days of two wires and an oval, or even that beloved
Marx windup.
Even if you’re not an electrical engineer, you don’t have to give up
on having an operating layout, even one with complex operation. By
teaching yourself how to troubleshoot your wiring, you can simplify the
process of installing new features and fix problems when they arise.
n
o
m U What kinds of electrical gremlins affect layouts? Unfortunately, many
m D
o
C U possibilities exist. Fortunately, they fall into a few basic categories.
C
U
B
Get shorty
The most common electrical prob- a wheel bridges two rails or, more sub-
lem, and potentially the most damag- tly, when they dislodge accessories or
ing, is the short circuit. A “short” occurs snag wires. Misplaced objects (such as a
when the normal electrical path is forgotten screwdriver or a metal-banded
shortened, causing the flow to bypass wristwatch) can also cause a short. So
the circuit’s normal load. Often, this can degraded insulation (often caused
means two wires that should be sepa- by a chafed wire) or a too-long tail of
rated are touching each other. Unless a wire at a transformer terminal or
circuit breaker or a fuse cuts the cur- lockon. If your trains won’t run and you
rent flow, a short can damage equip- hear humming or popping, smell burn-
ment, melt wires, or even cause a fire. ing insulation, or a circuit breaker
Derailments often cause shorts when opens, start looking for a short.
Powerless
If part or all of your layout is dead and replace the fuse), then power the layout
you don’t find a short, at least one circuit up again, one circuit at a time. If the
on your transformer may have failed. breaker trips again, unplug all power
Check to make sure that it’s plugged cords leading to the layout, disconnect
in and that the electrical outlet is live. the transformers, and have a profes-
Unless it is extremely large, your layout sional examine your layout wiring. If
alone is not likely to overload a house everything from your layout checks out
circuit, but the main breaker could pop fine, have an electrician take a look at
if one of your transformers has a short your 110-volt wiring, because you may
in its primary winding or if there is a have more serious electrical trouble.
problem with an unrelated household A variation on this problem comes
appliance plugged into the same cir- from a load that’s too large for the
cuit. An electrical short on your layout transformer, but not large enough to
could also overload a house circuit if pop the breaker. Adding a few lighted
your transformer has a broken circuit coaches to your passenger train, for
breaker. In fact, shorted primary wind- example, may increase the load enough
ings and non-functional breakers are that your locomotive runs sluggishly,
the two most dangerous layout prob- the whistle won’t blow, or your acces-
lems you can have. sories won’t run. Go back and calculate
If a 110-volt circuit breaker has the load on the transformer (see CTT’s
thrown, shut your layout down for a October 2003 or January 1999 issues).
minute or two, reset the breaker (or You may be surprised by what you find.
Bad connection
If your layout won’t operate, but you don’t 4 hints for troubleshooting
find a short and your transformers appear to be
functioning normally, a wire may have come Once trouble starts, keep this
loose. Bad connections are especially likely hints checklist in mind to home in
when you’ve wrapped your wires around screw on the problem.
terminals (spade lugs really aren’t that expen- 1) Start simple. Your troubles
sive – break down and buy a box). But wires also may have an exotic cause, like a
break, especially solid wires that have been bent shorted transformer coil or bad
a few times. Also, soldered and crimped connections can break – often invisibly. track insulation, but those aren’t
The easiest way to test for a lack of power is with a voltmeter or test light. Make likely. Shorts and bad connections
sure one lead is grounded, then use the other to check for voltage at each junction are – start by looking for them.
point in the circuit, starting at the transformer. If you can’t find the correct voltage 2) Get a test light, a voltmeter,
at a point in the circuit where you should, the break is between there and the last or both. It’s much simpler to chase
point where you had it. down your troubles when you
Start your investigation by disconnecting, then reconnecting the wires, because have a way of telling where the
a bad connection is the most likely culprit. If that doesn’t work, it may be simpler circuit is broken. A volt-ohm-
just to run a new wire, rather than spend your time troubleshooting. Just remem- meter (VOM) is even better than a
ber to remove or mark the old wire to prevent any future confusion. test lamp, because it alerts you
when the voltage is other than
what it should be.
3) Be methodical. Disconnect
one connection at a time, and test
after each change. Check a circuit
Wrong connection thoroughly before checking
If the gremlins have control of your bad connection, look at the connec- another. Skipping from circuit to
layout – things just don’t act right – you tions to the component itself. Are the circuit, or disconnecting several
may have a wrong connection. Often wires connected correctly? Check a things at once, can drive you batty.
this occurs when you disconnect a wire Lionel service manual for wiring dia- 4) Think things through. Did
for some reason. Did the wire go back grams for postwar and most modern-era you change anything recently?
where it should have? Or did the new accessories. Sometimes problems stem Add anything? Was the cat on the
component set up an electrical path from something as simple as a wire layout? Did your child’s friends
you didn’t expect? Lighted components hooked to the wrong terminal. Or are stop by, or did your buddy the
often create an alternate path that may you trying to do something that isn’t prankster leave a quarter on the
not cause a short, but will prevent trains possible? Some accessories, for exam- track? Some problems, such as
or accessories from working normally. ple, won’t work properly if you try to those due to poor connections,
Trace the wires leading to and from enhance them by adding lights. Others can occur at any time, but most
the component or track section, check- have metal frames that can cause erratic have an immediate cause.
ing as you go. If that doesn’t reveal a operation if they contact the track.
Just plain broken Just plain weird
Sometimes a layout problem is Some electrical problems are due to
caused by a problem within the device phenomena that are pretty odd – and
itself. Perhaps a connection is bad almost impossible to trace. Here are
within the accessory, or 50-year-old some I’ve encountered over the years:
cloth or rubber insulation is disintegrat- 1) Broken-down track insulation. A
ing. If the problem device is an acces- failed center-rail track insulator can
sory, remove it from your layout, take it cause short circuits, a problem that
to your workbench, and use temporary often manifests itself only when there’s
wires with alligator clips to power it up.
Do you find the right voltages at the out weight on the rails. If you have a prob-
lem that defies location, check the insu-
right places? Are all the connections
good? Is there a short? Did a previous
of er lation. You can often simulate a train’s
weight by pushing down on the center
owner wire it the wrong way?
The same goes for locomotives. Bad
ord or any insulated rails with your finger.
2) Size mismatches. Locomotives’
connections and misplaced wires can pickup-roller locations can vary, and
wreak havoc, as can the ever-popular these variances, in turn, can cause prob-
bad reverse unit. Plus, because of their lems. One locomotive may run fine over
many moving parts, locomotives are a particular section of track or a track
especially prone to chafed wires or, that switch, while another may stall, because
all-time electrical favorite, the intermit- at some point none of its rollers are
tent short. Is a wire hanging, or is a making contact with the center rail. Or
pickup assembly either loose or one locomotive’s rollers may be slightly
shorted? How about the whistle relay? Is askew, causing an intermittent short,
a contact bent? Is the hot wire leading especially on curves, switches, or track
to your smoke unit grounding before it with a square rail profile.
reaches the unit? Any of these prob- 3) Scrapes and bumps. Toy trains vary
lems, plus many others, affect a locomo- in size, and larger locomotives and cars
tive; and locomotive troubles can often can overhang the track considerably. If
mimic a short or another problem with one particular train runs badly in one
the layout wiring. particular spot, check to see whether a
low-hanging ladder or footplate on a
metal steam locomotive is shorting on a
lineside lockon or accessory.
Dim bulbs
Sometimes a problem isn’t one prob-
lem, but a series of issues you need to
address one at a time. Here’s one real-life
situation I faced.
A few years ago, I installed never-used
early postwar street lamps on my layout.
First of all, I violated my own rule and
didn’t test the lamps before I installed
them. I wired them up, but nary a bulb
glowed.
My first discovery was that I had
hooked the feeders to the wrong termi-
nal on the terminal strip. After correctly
hooking up the leads, I still had only one
light glowing and four dim.
I took the bulb that I knew was good
and tried it in all the dim-lit fixtures. As a
result, I discovered one of those four
bulbs was bad (despite no visible breaks in the filament). I break 50-year-old zinc by hammering or drilling, I filed a
swapped in a new good bulb, giving me two working lamps. groove inside the cast socket, then ran a second wire up
Wondering whether 50 years of corrosion had affected any through the pole and placed this wire’s stripped end in the
of the lamps, I cleaned the hot contact of each and screwed a groove. Once everything was in place, and with a new bulb
bulb in and out a few times. That solved the puzzle on one installed, it lit.
more fixture, giving me three working lamps. When I reinstalled the lamps, however, one still failed to
I took the two stubborn street lamps to the workbench, light. I checked things out again – and found that one of the
where I discovered that neither grounded properly due to suitcase connectors I used under the layout was bad. Having
corrosion in the 50-year-old mechanical connection between already crimped two onto the wire, I didn’t want to try a
the ground wires and the fixtures. While removing the corro- third, so I soldered the leads together and then – finally –
sion on each, the lead on one fixture broke. Not wanting to enjoyed the sight of my five new lamps.
Swap that switch!
I went through a troubleshooting
process a few years back, while wiring a
siding for automatic operation on a lay-
out. For this installation, I used two
Lionel O gauge switches, each with its
non-derailing rail extended via an insu-
lated section. The wiring was new 16-
gauge stranded copper with crimped
spade connectors, soldered on each
end. I’ve done this type of installation 6 ways to avoid trouble from the start
many times before, always with success.
This time, however, while the siding Here are some simple ways to keep your layout wiring from becoming a
worked in one direction, in the other source of trouble. Practice these, and you’ll be well on your way to smooth
the switch repeatedly failed to trip, caus- operation.
ing some near-head-on collisions. After 1) Test first. From humble straight track sections to insulated tracks and
checking the leads for continuity and switches through accessories and transformers, test everything that will go
making sure that the non-derailing rails on your layout before installing it.
on the no. 022 switches and the adja- 2) Test as you go. Each time you add a new block, accessory, or lighting
cent insulated sections grounded cor- circuit to your layout, test it. For example, if things worked fine until you
rectly, I was at a momentary loss. added your new city lights, the short circuit you just acquired is probably
Checking out the switch solenoid not in your track feeders or your accessory bus, but somewhere in your
revealed that one was bad, working in lighting circuit. Check there first.
only one direction. I got another Lionel 3) Make good connections. Use spade lugs on terminal posts, solder wire
022 switch mechanism and installed it, splices (or use snap-on “suitcase” connectors), and, rather than hooking sev-
only to find that the same problem eral wires together into one spider web, use terminal strips. Even crimp-on
occurred. connectors can fail – go ahead and solder them as well, using resin-core
Running back through the process of (not acid-core) solder.
checking the leads and rails, I found 4) Color code and label your wiring. Use different-colored wire insulation
myself at the same point. Had I missed and either tag the wires, make a schematic, or both. Sooner or later trou-
something? No. Actually, the second ble’s bound to occur, or you’re going to want to add something to your lay-
MPC-era 022 solenoid had the same out, and having the wires color-coded helps immensely.
defect as the first. Changing to a good 5) More circuits. It’s possible to run a layout from a single pair of binding
postwar mechanism got the automatic posts, provided you have a transformer that’s large enough, but it’s not the
siding working right, every time. best method. Breaking things down into multiple circuits spreads the elec-
Even if your layout is small or you trical load, allows you to run accessories at their optimum voltages, and
use command control, it still uses at makes troubleshooting much simpler.
least a few wires. And as sure as can be, 6) Neatness counts. Bundle wires and avoid droopy wires under your lay-
one of these days something will stop out. It’s simpler to trace neat wiring, and while a little slack is useful, big
working. But if you can troubleshoot it hanging loops of wire are snares for arms, legs, and pets, which can lead to
yourself, you’ll be back railroading in injuries or broken connections.
no time. T
Designing
for operation
Seven ways to make better track plans
P
ERHAPS THE BIGGEST challenge fac- and move cars in and out of industrial track sections made by Ross Custom
ing any toy train enthusiast is sidings where operating accessories wait Switches. However, tighter curves and
developing a track plan that offers for some action. different track brands can be substituted
the maximum amount of fun within a The basic L-shaped design shown on using the same principles.
limited amount of space. these pages provides a setting to show- It is important to use your available
Trains that simply run ’round and case the possibilities. The design shown space efficiently. The following ideas are
’round in a circle soon lose their appeal. here occupies two walls of a large base- a progression. Each plan is an improve-
The real fun is had in a layout that ment room, measuring 15 by 22 feet. It ment upon the previous one. You can
allows you to choose among many differ- uses relatively gentle curves made by apply any or all of the principles when
ent routes, run trains in both directions, GarGraves and turnouts and special designing your own layout.
1 Two intersecting loops Unless you have unlimited space for a point-
to-point layout, a track plan that forms a
complete loop provides the longest run.
Plan no. 1 shows two intersecting loops, one
on each leg of an L-shaped table. All of the
curves are 72 inches in diameter, although
smaller or larger sizes could be used,
depending upon your table size. There are
two O-72 turnouts, one left and one right,
and a 90-degree crossing. Although a train
90-degree crossing may access either loop, it can travel in one
direction only, and the geometric appear-
O-72 right-hand turnout ance is not very interesting.
O-72 wye
6 Storage sidings Until now, we’ve dealt only with the flow of
mainline traffic. Another important element
that makes layouts more fun is sidings,
which can be used for storage, train make-
up, and industry service. Plan no. 6 could
11-degree accommodate even more track than I’ve
right-hand turnout shown, but I’ve tried to leave room for
scenery. The smaller radius O-42 turnout
O-42 right-hand saves some space at the upper left, while
turnout the 11-degree turnouts keep the other sid-
ings close together and adjacent to the
main lines at the right. The curved routes of
Two left and one right-hand turnouts designated O-31, O-42, or O-72
11-degree standard turnouts form arcs the same diameter as those corre-
sponding curved pieces of track; turnouts
designed by degrees or by numbers such as
4, 6, and 8 feature routes that angle off in a
straight line, like the side of a triangle,
instead of a curve.
7 Rapid transit If you don’t mind giving up some more
scenery, or you like urban scenery a bit
more, here’s a nice addition you can make.
Plan no. 7 incorporates a trolley line that
operates independently (aside from two
crossings) from the rest of the layout. All of
the curves and turnouts are O-31, but con-
ventional toy train track with even tighter O-
27 curves can easily be substituted. The two
additional crossings – 90 degrees and 45
degrees – should have fully insulated center
sections to allow the trolley line to be elec-
trically independent of the main lines. A
O-31 right-hand short siding allows storage of an extra trol-
turnout 45-degree crossing ley car.
90-degree crossing O-31 right-hand
turnout O-31 right-hand
turnout
A rapid transit line, cutting through an urban part of a layout, adds action and takes up a relatively small amount of space.
designtips
12 by Steven Seidel
O gauge sectional track, the foundation of childhood layouts, remains the predominant building
block of today’s layouts. These durable track sections can be assembled in countless ways. But sectional-track
versatility can also have a drawback, especially if you “nail down” a track plan without giving it enough
thought. Consider the unique operating characteristics of toy trains. They can run fast, negotiate tight
curves, climb hills, and are designed to work with operating accessories. However, sometimes our track plans
put too much strain on our trains, and we’re left disappointed when our equipment can’t consistently
handle the designs we’ve created.
Advice to
build a better
sectional-track
layout
designed for continuous, O22 switches. In this case, To avoid these sharp curves, From a plan to a layout
hands-off running often con- repositioning one of the use the curved leg of a switch Even after careful plan-
sist of largely disconnected switches, as shown at right, as part of the main line, as ning and construction, you
loops that have either no does the trick. shown at right. likely will want to modify
working switches or only a your layout in some small
few poorly placed ones. Trol- ways in the future. While
leys and gang cars some- also make longer trains pos- line and the straight section these are not strictly track-
times get nothing more than sible because they create less as the diverging route (fig. plan design tips, here are
an isolated length of track. rolling resistance and reduce 4), often eliminating an “S” two more pieces of advice.
While these special cases the possibility that long curve in the process.
have a purpose, the typical
layout is better off sporting a
connected design so that
trains will be pulled taut, like
a tight rope, across the
inside of the curve. A 180- 8 Place uncoupling sec-
tions at least one car
11 Secure track using
screws or another
reversible method. Pick a
cars can be moved from degree curve made of O- length from O-31 curves. track-fastening technique
track to track without man- 72/O-54/O-31/O-31/O-54/ Cars will uncouple only if that lets you easily make
ual intervention. O-72 pieces of track is more they are aligned relative to changes. I use small screws
pleasing and functional than one another (fig. 5). If an to fasten track to Homasote
Fitting the pieces together the traditional O-31/O-31/ operating accessory is placed roadbed. Others use plastic
Once you have a working straight/straight/O-31/O-31 at the uncoupling section, straps in some fashion to
sketch in hand, the next step string of sectional track (fig. distancing it from curved secure track to the roadbed
is to determine exactly 2). Both use the same sections will reduce the pos- of their choice. Nailing track
which sizes of track and how amount of space. Obviously, sibility of rolling stock scrap- into plywood is not recom-
many to use. Here are some there are many variations. ing against an accessory. mended because nails are
useful tips to bring your Even on a smaller layout, hard to remove and trains
sketch into reality. many O-31 sections and adja- running on track fastened
cent straight pieces can be The UCS should be separated directly to plywood are noisy.
The
Apartment
Layout
beforeandafter The original Apartment Layout as shown in
CTT’s September 1999 issue.
If you have shied away from Also, by adding a reverse loop, has a pair of “opposing” reverse
large-radius curved sections and lengthening the spurs, varying loops that lets a train go from
double reverse loops because track alignments, and putting six clockwise to counterclockwise
you thought that there was not of the eight switches within easy and back again without having to
enough room for them, think reach, I’ve made the plan more back up. The second loop is made
again. The Apartment Layout, fea- friendly to operate. by connecting two spurs from the
tured in the September 1999 In the original plan at right, a original layout and adding a 90-
issue of CLASSIC TOY TRAINS and train running on the Apartment degree crossing.
originally published in the Febru- Layout can change its direction Some cutting of track sections
ary 1942 issue of Lionel’s Model from counterclockwise to clock- might be necessary to make the
Builder magazine, is a good exam- wise by going through the most of the available space, but
ple of how most of my layout reverse loop that cuts diagonally usually only straight sections
planning tips can be applied. across the layout. But that train need to be cut.
Many of the compact layout’s cannot return to counterclock- The revised track plan main-
original O-31 curved sections can wise travel without backing up tains the same constraints as the
be eliminated without having to through several switches. original, including its 6 by 10-foot
call a real estate agent to find The modified Apartment Lay- dimensions and the same number
more property. out, shown at the top of the page, of 022 switches.
Testing
9 types of
track
Rating metal rails for traction and electrical resistance
O
NE DAY, I TOOK my two favorite Lionel postwar Geeps to a friend’s layout,
where I learned a clear lesson about the differences in O gauge track. A
train powered by my two locomotives ran without problems on the lower
part of his layout, but on a grade leading to the upper level my Magne-Traction-
equipped Geeps began to spin their wheels.
I noted that the lower level consisted of Lionel O gauge sectional track, with a tin-
plated steel design perfect for Magne-Traction wheels, while the grade was built from
non-magnetic track. Even without an attached train, my Geeps seemed like they were
running on butter up the hill!
This experience got me thinking. In planning my own layout, I needed to know
which track would work best for my motive power.
Chart 1 Atlas steel
3.0 Lift
Drag
2.5 Push
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
41 211 217#1 217#2 616 672 675 736 783 1801 1802 2000#1 2000#2 2018 2023 2037 2321 2343
Note: for a more complete description of the locomotives listed by cab numbers in charts 1 and 2, see page 71.
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
41 211 217#1 217#2 616 672 675 736 783 1801 1802 2000#1 2000#2 2018 2023 2037 2321 2343
Illustrations by Kellie Jaeger
I considered four factors when selecting a type of track: The track sections tested were Atlas O (nickel-silver and
electrical resistance, traction efficiency, appearance, and cost. steel), GarGraves (regular and stainless steel), K-Line O-27
Two of the factors – resistance and traction – can be tested. tubular, Lionel O-27 tubular (new and mid-1950s), Lionel O
So I conducted my own tests. tubular (late 1940s), and MTH RealTrax.
As it turned out, I ended up making a fairly serious study of My test locomotives (see the chart on page 71) are all made
O gauge track. I employed 19 locomotives and several forms by Lionel, but they differ in important ways. The engines were
of measurement to determine the performance of nine types manufactured from the 1940s through the 1990s. They
of track, repeating each test several times. In all, I conducted include everything from lightweight, single-motored O-27
between 1,500 and 2,000 tests. units to heavy, dual-motored O units. Most – but not all – have
Extensive though it was, my testing isn’t all inclusive. With Magne-Traction, Lionel’s system of magnetizing wheels to
more than two dozen track systems available to O gaugers – increase a locomotive’s traction. Of the remaining locomo-
including some new ones like Lionel’s FasTrack, which hadn’t tives, some have rubber traction tires and some have nothing
yet hit the market when I completed my tests – I couldn’t more than metal wheels.
cover all the territory possible. I performed five different tests:
Nonetheless, my results were enlightening. Mind you, these Locomotive push: A measure of the force generated by the
are my testing procedures using my locomotives and methods, locomotives on each track. I placed each locomotive in contact
but I’ve tried to maintain a scientific approach throughout. with an electronic strain gauge and then applied power. In this
test, the engines could not move along the track as I adjusted
5 different tests track voltage to measure the maximum push force.
In deciding which track types to test, I focused on those Locomotive drag: A measure of the friction between wheels
that are readily available in hobby shops as well as some used and track. I positioned the engines on the track (without
Lionel track so that I could compare new and old. power), then attached a weight bucket with a cord running
Chart 3 Traction tire performance comparison
Lionel O tubular (old)
Lionel O-27 tubular (old)
Lionel 0-27 tubular (new)
Atlas steel
K-Line O-27 tubular
Gargraves regular
Gargraves stainless
MTH RealTrax
Atlas nickel-silver
0 20 40 60 80 100
Note: results on a scale of 0 to 100 (with 100 being the best performance)
over a low friction pulley. I added weights to the bucket until along the metal rails. I determined the electrical resistance
the locomotives slid along the track 12 inches or more. using a sensitive four-wire measurement accurate to 0.0001
Locomotive lift: A measure of how much weight a locomo- ohm. I also put together sections of each type of track to mea-
tives can lift on each track. I used the same bucket setup as in sure resistance across that included one or more joints.
the drag test, only this time I applied power to the track so that For comparison’s sake, I used bar graphs to display the
the locomotives could try to lift whatever weight was in the results of my tests, which I’ve broken down into three groups:
bucket. I added weight incrementally to the bucket and traction, track-magnetic merit, and electrical resistance.
repeated the test until the engine could no longer lift the load
a full 12 inches. Sorting the locomotives
Magnetic merit: A measure of the magnetic “strength” of First, to get a sense of how my locomotives stacked up with
each track. Instead of hooking a locomotive to the string each other, I gave each the push, pull, and drag tests using
attached to my weight bucket, I attached the line to a magnet magnetic (steel) and non-magnetic (nickel-silver) versions of
so that each pole touched a different rail. I added weight to the same brand of track, in this case, Atlas O.
the bucket until the magnet broke free from the track. For The push, pull, and drag results usually were within 10 per-
tubular track, I performed this test at the metal ties and again cent of each other for each of my locomotives. Charts 1 and 2
halfway between the ties to see if the ties play a significant role show how they did on Atlas O steel track and Atlas O nickel-sil-
in the effects of Magne-Traction. ver track. (In two instances, I had two identical locomotives
Electrical resistance: A measure of how well electricity flows with the same number, so I tested both separately and listed
Weight vs. pulling power
Locomotive pulling capability is lightweight no. 217 Alco FA (28.5 due to increased friction between
related to weight. In other words, ounces with a single motor and four wheel and rail and is proportional to
heavier engines have better traction Magne-Traction drive wheels), and a the weight added and the number
than lighter engines. But can you heavy no. 2321 FM Train Master (82 of driven wheels. The type of drive
simply add more weight to a loco- ounces with two motors and eight wheel – whether metal, rubber, or
motive to make it pull better? Magne-Traction drive wheels). Magne-Traction – makes no signifi-
I tested three Lionel postwar When I added weight to each cant difference.
locomotives to see what effect locomotive, the 211 and 217 A consequence of adding weight
adding weight would have on maxi- showed about the same increase in is that heavier locomotives suck up
mum pulling power. traction: a 1-ounce gain in pull for more power. I recorded a 15 to 20
My Lionel test units consisted of a every 3 ounces of added weight. The percent increase in amperage for
lightweight no. 211 Alco FA (weigh- 2321 Train Master scored double every 4 ounces of added weight.
ing 28 ounces with a single motor, that of the Alcos, with a 2-ounce This caused a significant increase in
four drive wheels with one traction gain in pull for every 3 ounces of heat in the motors.
tire, and no Magne-Traction), a added weight. The increase in pull is I had to stop the test with my
Weight vs pull Train Master at 12 additional ounces
10 because the motor started smoking.
no. 2321 Train Master diesel On the other hand, I added 24
Pull weight increse (ounces)
no. 211 FA (Diesel traction tires) ounces to the 217 without it over-
8 heating and saw a 33 percent
no. 217 FA (Diesel Magne-Traction)
improvement in pulling power.
6 So, if you add weight, watch what
you’re doing. For postwar locomo-
tives, I recommend limiting current
4
to 2.5 amps per motor.
Heavier locomotives typically
2 draw this much current at maximum
load, so you can’t add much weight.
0 Because light engines draw much
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 less power, you can increase their
Added engine weight (ounces) weight quite a bit. – Phillip Hays
each result separately in these two charts.) general, tracks made of nickel-silver or stainless steel seem to
In general, Magne-Traction-equipped locomotives worked be more “slippery” for locomotives without traction tires,
best on steel rails, pulling 33 to 50 percent of their weight. including those without Magne-Traction. Steel track, not sur-
Locomotives with traction tires pulled more than locomotives prisingly, provided a significant improvement in pulling power
without traction tires on non-magnetic rails, pulling about 25 for engines equipped with Magne-Traction.
to 33 percent of their weight. Locomotives with steel wheels Two examples not spelled out in Charts 4 and 5 also illus-
only (no Magne-Traction) performed about the same on trate the difference between locomotives equipped with trac-
either track type, pulling about 20 percent of their weight. tion tires and Magne-Traction on different types of track.
Since my tests were focused on the merits of each type of My modern-era Lionel PA-1s (two motors, eight drive
track, and not the performance of my individual locomotives, wheels, four traction tires) worked about equally well on all
I’ve intentionally omitted charts showing the locomotive trac- nine types of track. On Atlas O nickel-silver track, they aver-
tion results on the other seven types of track. aged 1.77 pounds of pull and on Atlas O steel track they aver-
aged 1.82 pounds. On MTH RealTrax they pulled 1.73 pounds,
Traction-test results and on postwar O gauge track they pulled 1.67 pounds. In
Next, I wanted to see how locomotives of the three traction practical terms, the differences I found translate to the differ-
designs – traction tires, Magne-Traction, and plain metal ences in pulling 51 postwar freight cars and 56 postwar freight
wheels – performed on the nine types of track. cars along straight track – not much difference at all.
Charts 3, 4, and 5 show the relative merit of each track for In contrast, my postwar Lionel no. 2343 F3 (two motors,
locomotives belonging to each of the three locomotive trac- eight drive wheels with Magne-Traction) pulled only 1.45
tion designs. Rather than using raw numbers, I’ve set up these pounds on Atlas O nickel-silver (non-magnetic) track, but
three charts on a percentage scale of 0 to 100. pulled 2.69 pounds on Atlas O steel (magnetic) track. Both
I used the sums of data from the push, drag, and lift tests to types of track have the same cross section and the same wheel
create this comparison ranking. contact area. My calculations show the difference in pulling
Chart 3 shows that locomotives with fresh traction tires capability equates to the differences in pulling 45 or 83 post-
worked about equally well on all types of rails, with only a 22 war freight cars along straight track.
percent range in performance from best to worst. On MTH RealTrax, my 2343 pulled a meager 1.23 pounds,
For locomotives without traction tires, the type of rail is far but on Lionel postwar tubular O gauge track it pulled more
more important, as Charts 4 and 5 show. A locomotive’s pull than 3 pounds. That difference equates to the difference
may vary from 50 to 70 percent, depending on track type. In between pulling 38 or 92 postwar freight cars.
Chart 6 Magnetic attraction
Atlas steel
Lionel 0-27 tubular (new)
Lionel O tubular (old)
Lionel O-27 tubular (old)
K-Line O-27 tubular
Gargraves regular
Gargraves stainless
MTH RealTrax
Atlas nickel-silver
0 20 40 60 80 100
Note: results on a scale of 0 to 100 (with 100 being the best performance)
Magnetic-merit results tests. Atlas O’s nickel-silver track and MTH’s RealTrax, both
The magnetic-merit test is a measure of how strongly the non-ferrous, produced near zero magnetic adhesion.
wheels of locomotives equipped with Magne-Traction are I tested Lionel tubular track at the ties and between the ties
attracted to the rails. and found that Magne-Traction was about 6 percent stronger
I found that Magne-Traction accounts for 33 to 50 percent directly over the ties.
of the total traction force on the rails for lightweight locomo-
tives (primarily diesels), 25 percent for heavier diesels, and 10 Electrical-resistance results
to 20 percent for heavy die-cast metal steam locomotives. The electrical characteristics of the rails may be more
Since traction is related to the force on the wheels (see important than traction. After all, locomotives with the best
sidebar on page 69), Magne-Traction represents a clear gain rail/wheel combinations don’t go anywhere without power.
in pulling capability, especially for lightweight engines. The basic resistance of the track metals varies by a factor of
Chart 6 shows that Magne-Traction performs quite differ- two, as Chart 7 shows. A single section of Atlas O steel track
ently on different types of track. has the lowest resistance (the best for conducting electricity),
The Atlas O steel track, with a T-shaped profile that pro- scoring less than half that of GarGraves track. However, in
vides the largest contact patch between the wheels and the practical applications, all of the track sections I tested had very
rails, clearly was the champion of my tests. Common tubular low resistance.
track with metal ties performed 43 to 53 percent as effectively, But most toy train layouts aren’t built from a single piece of
while GarGraves track was 20 to 30 percent as effective in my track. They have plenty of rail joints, and that greatly affects
Lionel test locomotives Other track choices
Number Description Year Other types of O gauge track are available besides
41 U.S. Army switcher 1955-57 those tested by author Phillip Hays.
211 Texas Special Alco FA 1962-66 Lionel FasTrack, which had just entered the mar-
ket when Phil completed his tests, uses roadbed like
217* Boston & Maine Alco FA 1959
MTH RealTrax. But instead of solid rails, FasTrack has
616 Santa Fe NW2 1961-62 sheet-metal steel rails that in profile look like an
672 Wabash 4-6-2 Pacific 1986-87 inverted “U.” Electrical connections are made using
675 Lionel Lines 2-6-2 steamer 1947-49 flattened pins that slip into the rail ends. Early Fas-
736 Lionel Lines 2-8-4 Berkshire 1950-66 Track production featured a blackened center rail;
783 NYC 4-6-4 Hudson 1984 later production did not. FasTrack would produce
1801 repainted no. 2328 Geep 1955 test results similar to those of traditional tubular track
in traction and magnetic attraction.
1802 repainted no. 2338 Geep 1955
Ross Custom Switches makes sectional track, in
2000* Santa Fe PA-1 1997 addition to a variety of track switches. Both the track
2018 Lionel Lines 2-6-4 steamer 1956-61 and the switches use steel rails and connection pins
2023 Union Pacific Alco FA 1950-51 almost identical in material and sectional profile to
2037 Lionel Lines 2-6-4 steamer 1954-63 GarGraves track and would produce similar test
2321 Lackawanna Train Master 1954-56 results. Curtis Hi-Rail Products track is also quite simi-
2343 Santa Fe F3 1950-52 lar to GarGraves.
Besides RealTrax, MTH makes ScaleTrax which has
*Two locomotives with the same a lower profile and does not come with simulated
cab numbers were used in track tests. roadbed like RealTrax. ScaleTrax uses solid non-steel
running rails, a blackened blade-like center rail, and
copper tabs to connect sections electrically. Scale-
resistance on all track brands. Trax would produce traction and magnetic-attraction
Chart 8, which shows resistance per yard instead of per foot test results similar to those of RealTrax.
of track, reveals that resistance becomes a bigger issue when K-Line Shadow Rail and SuperSnap track both use
sectional joints are taken into consideration. The resistance of tubular track similar in material and sectional profile
each joint in sectional track is about equal to the resistance of to Lionel regular O gauge track. Shadow Rail has a
a foot of rail. In my tests, the Atlas O steel track was again blackened center rail and plastic ties, but uses tradi-
champion, recording the lowest resistance of the nine types of tional metal track pins. It would test much like to
track when accounting for track joints. Lionel tubular track.
As track ages, the electrical connections at joints deterio- SuperSnap track also uses tubular rails, but with-
rate. This is probably the reason that the older Lionel tubular out pins (although the holes for pins are still present).
track had significantly greater resistance per yard than new Sections snap together, and electrical contact is
Lionel and K-Line tubular track. Though made of relatively made through tabs at the ends of each section of
high-resistance steel, GarGraves 37-inch track sections don’t track. The tab design is similar to MTH track. Super-
need any joiners to create a yard-long section of track. So per Snap’s traction and magnetic properties would be
yard, it has a lower overall resistance than MTH RealTrax sec- similar to Shadow Rail, but its use of tabs for electrical
tional track, even though the individual MTH sections are connections would give it a different score from
made of very low-resistance metal. Shadow Rail. – Neil Besougloff
I T ’ S FUN TO VISITsomeone else’s toy 1. Clean and test. First, clean the 3. Prepare the accessories. If you
train layout, hearing great collector track. Then do any necessary locomo- have to stop the show during the visit to
stories, and seeing prized pieces and tive and rolling stock maintenance. In set up the accessories, your momentum
fun animated accessories up close and other words, fill the smoke units, lubri- is lost and visitors will not experience
personal. Now let’s turn the tables. You cate any squeaky parts, check switch the fun of continuous action.
are the host. operation and wiring, and, generally, Make sure the milk cans are loaded
Naturally, you want the guests to test, test, test. in the milk car. Retrieve the stray cans
enjoy themselves and get the most out of that always seem to be hiding under the
their visit. But what sort of preparation is 2. Position and compose your trains. platform. Line up the cows or horses
needed? What should you avoid? How Make sure the main lines are clear and on the stockcar platform. Put the coal
do you direct and hold their attention? the trains are ready to roll, and be pre- and logs in the dump cars. Reassemble
Sound like a bit of theater? Well, it is pared to show off some interesting stuff the exploding boxcar. Locate the
a show after all, and it should be visitors will enjoy. rocket for the launcher, and blow up a
approached from that point of view. I usually make sure to have one train balloon for the target car.
Anyone who has ever had a visit marred that is pulled by a command-control You get the idea.
by derailments, balky accessories, and steamer, so that I can show off the loco-
lapsing attention spans will understand motive’s smoke and sound features. I 4. Tidy up the layout. Make sure that
that preparation and planning pay off. also run a “pairs” train, consisting of everything visible on your layout has a
After many years of hosting mostly cars carrying two of everything: air- role in the operation of the railroad.
non-hobbyists on visits to my Central planes, pickup trucks, semi-trailers, ship Don’t leave cars and engines sitting
Valley & Illinois Railroad, I have fallen propellers, bank safes, etc. Visitors get alongside the track. Get rid of boxes,
into a pattern that everyone seems to the idea, and they love it. tools, and everything else that is not
enjoy. I’d like to offer some tips, based And, if you’ve got them, prepare a part of the show.
on those experiences, on how to get mix of diesel and steam and freight and Most importantly, if something isn’t
ready for visitors. passenger equipment. functioning properly, remove it – now!
Out-of-service equipment on a railroad 6. Provide a vantage point for kids. 8. Remember your other friends.
seems to attract visitors’ eyes like a mag- Use stools or strong wooden boxes so Other guests, often regular visitors who
net and tends to detract from all your that the smaller children can step up to have seen it all before, may choose to
hard work. And don’t worry, visitors will your level. And make sure the plat- stay behind. Before you head to your
never know what you have removed forms are stable. Kids are always going train room, make sure to provide them
from the layout. to stretch their bodies and hands out as with refreshments and whatever else
far as they can go. they might need.
5. Tidy up the room. Clear the aisles
so your guests don’t have to dodge stor- 7. Straighten up “down under.” Like I’ve hosted many visitors on many
age boxes and other items. the child who sets a new toy aside and occasions, and I’ve found that I almost
Remember, ideally, your guests plays with the box, certain kids are lit- spend as much time on these prepara-
won’t be looking at their feet; their eyes erally and inescapably fascinated by the tions as I do operating the layout dur-
will be glued to the layout as soon as underside of the railroad. ing a visit.
they enter the room. Because they may Make sure the underside of your lay- While some of these tips are obvi-
not be watching where they are walk- out has no low-hanging wires or out- ous, they are all useful and will help
ing, it is in everyone’s best interest to right dangers to small heads and hands. you put on a show your visitors won’t
clear the decks beforehand. Remember, it’s dark under there. soon forget. T