FROM DASHI

TO TONKATSU,
200 SIMPLE RECIPES
FOR EVERY OCCASION

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SULT 091613
= CcOOoK
~~ JAPANESE
. AT HOME
 COCK
JAPANESE
AT HOME
FROM DASHI TO TONKATSU,
200 SIMPLE RECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION

KIMIKO BARBER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA LEE

KYLE BOOKS
| Lincolnshire
County Council

641.595 £25.00

ii < Barber is hereby identified as the author

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CONTENTS

AN INVITATION TO JAPANESE FOOD AND COOKING 6

APPETISERS Il

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 27

BOWLFOOD 75

Noodles 76
Rice 90
Sushi 106

MAINS 123

Fish and Seafood 124

Tofu 156
Poultry and Eggs 166
Pork 176
Beef 188
Lamb 194
Hotpots 200

SIDE DISHES 209

DESSERTS 227

Japanese Tea 241

INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT 244

Japanese Kitchen Utensils 245

Knives 247
The Japanese Pantry 248
Fresh Ingredients 250

INDEX 252
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 256

ee EEE
INTRODUCTION 5
AN INVITATION TO JAPANESE FOOD AND COOKING

Over the past decade or so, Japanese cuisine has washoku is inextricably linked to Japan’s natural
gained phenomenal international popularity. When conditions, geography and climate as well as its history.
| first arrived in England in the 1970s there were only
The Japanese archipelago stretches over 3,000km, north
a handful of Japanese restaurants, which seemed to
to south, along the eastern coast of the Asian continent,
exist largely for the benefit of Japanese tourists and
and is composed of four large islands — Hokkaido,
lonely businessmen longing for a taste of home. Today,
Honshd, Shikoku and Kydshd — plus another 3,000 or so
there are over 200 in central London alone, many of
smaller islands. The climate ranges from semi-tropical in
which require booking days, if not weeks, in advance,
the south to cool temperate in the north. The land is 70
and boxes of sushi are sold next to sandwiches in
per cent mountainous or forested and the population of
supermarkets. How things have changed!
127 million is crammed into an area only slightly bigger
Despite its recognition as a healthy choice — Japan has than the American state of Montana. To make it even
one of the highest life expectancies in the world — the more crowded, over 40 per cent of the population is
cuisine is often still perceived as difficult. My aim with squeezed into just three major coastal metropolises —
this cookbook is to dispel any fears you may have and Tokyo, Nagoya and Osaka — while only 12 per cent of
to show you just how easy it is to cook Japanese food land is agricultural.
at home. After all, millions of ordinary Japanese do it
Adapting to challenging living conditions, maintaining
every day. As you'll discover, the culinary methods are
psychological personal space rather than physical
not so very different and, if you have a reasonably well-
distance from each other and following carefully
equipped kitchen, you won't need any new equipment.
prescribed rules of behaviour have been traditionally
Japanese ingredients have also become much easier
accepted ways of dealing with life in a land where
to find in supermarkets. To begin with, my suggestion
over-crowding and devastating earthquakes, typhoons,
is to make just one Japanese dish to serve with your
volcanic eruptions and landslides are common. In
usual meals, perhaps a bowl of miso soup as a starter,
such an environment, permanence is a difficult quality
plain boiled rice instead of potatoes or a green salad
to achieve and is, indeed, seldom sought. Instead,
with a Japanese dressing, and then, as you gain more
Japanese people have learnt to adjust to and esteem
confidence, to gradually expand your repertoire.
the fleeting moment of being in balance with nature.

WASHOKU JAPANESE FOOD It is no coincidence that as well as representing all

What is it that makes a food or a dish Japanese? In things Japanese, wa also means peace, harmony,
2013, the cuisine was added to the United Nation's balance, mildness, to blend or to join together. The
cultural heritage list, only the second, after France’s, multiple meanings provide a good clue as to what
to have been so honoured. According to UNESCO's Japanese food is all about. Japanese cooks are praised
definition, washoku is based on skills, knowledge, for drawing out natural tastes and flavours rather than
practice and traditions related to the production, adding or imposing man-made ones; also for presenting
processing, preparation and consumption of food, and ingredients in ways that reflect nature.
is associated with a respect for nature that is closely
One of the most striking aspects of Japanese cuisine
related to the sustainable use of natural resources.
is the emphasis on seasonality. Every food has #J,
Written in two Chinese characters, the first, #1, wa, shun, a point in time when a particular food is at its
refers to all things Japanese and the second, ££ shoku, best. Shun can last for several weeks, even months,
means food. Coined at the time of the 1868 Meiji or it can be as fleeting as a few hours or days. Eating
Restoration when Japan emerged from over 200 years of food that is in season not only ensures that Japanese
self-imposed isolation and embraced all things Western, tastes are in harmony with natural rhythms but also that

6 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

they enjoy the freshest and most plentiful seasonal world during the isolation period. On the islands
ingredients. Japan enjoys four distinct seasons and the of Okinawa, septuagenarians are considered mere
land and surrounding seas and ocean currents bring an youngsters and its cuisine features pork, bitter melon
abundance of vegetables, fruits and fish. The emphasis called géya, and tropical fruits and vegetables.
on seasonality is not limited to selecting and cooking
What also distinguishes Japanese food (washoku)
fresh seasonal ingredients, but also extends to the
from Western food (ydshoku) is that it is designed to
presentation, with food served in appropriate tableware
be eaten with chopsticks. These were introduced by
— pale pastel coloured dishes in spring, cool glass bowls
the Chinese around the éth century. Initially, they were
in summer, rustic bamboo baskets in autumn and earthy
used only by the ruling aristocrats who did so to avoid
pottery in winter. There is a Japanese phrase me de
being thought of as ‘barbaric’ by the Chinese for eating
taberu, literally ‘eat with your eyes’.
with their hands, but by the 12th century they had
The diversity of Japan's climate results in regional been adopted by most of the population. Other Asian
cuisines as varied as the land itself. Hokkaido is the countries — China, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam — use
island that is the least Japan-like. Its wide, open chopsticks too, but Japan is unique in not also using
spaces with lakes and mountains is unsuitable for spoons. Chopsticks require a level of manual dexterity
rice cultivation and so the land is used for growing and for the food to be cut into small morsels, another
corn and potatoes and dairy farming. Its specialities reason why, in Japan, food preparation is equally, if not
include crabs, scallops and salmon, as well as konbu more important, than the actual cooking.
seaweed, which is the essential ingredient of dashi.
There is a huge food divide between the residents of
the Kanto region (centred around Tokyo and Yokohama)
and the Kansai region (Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe). In
Kansai, seasoning is milder both in colour and taste,
whereas the Kyoto cuisine prides itself on its delicate
sophistication, stemming from its position as the site
of the ancient Imperial court. There is an unspoken
feeling in western Japan that in Kant6 they are heavy-
handed with the soy sauce and salt and a little lacking
in refinement. Nagoya, the third largest city, located
halfway between Tokyo and Osaka, is known for its flat
kishimen udon noodles, chickens and pure soybean
hattcho-miso. Pilgrims visiting the 88 sacred places
around Shikoku are offered the island's famous Sanuki
udon noodles, fresh mackerel bonito and sweet
mandarin oranges. Kyashd is renowned for its tea,
fruits, sweet potatoes and for the Chinese and
Western influences that developed from Nagasaki's
role as Japan's only trading centre with the outside
THE EVOLUTION OF JAPANESE CUISINE the samurai. Once employed by the aristocracy as
Condensing more than 2,000 years of Japanese culinary lowly palace guards, they now emerged as the new
history into just a few paragraphs is almost impossible, ruling class. In 1192, Minamoto Yoritomo was granted
but a few key historical events stand out. The first, Imperial permission to set up a military government in
and perhaps most important, was the introduction of Kamakura (65km south west of Tokyo). It was during this
rice cultivation, believed to have come from China period that eating three meals a day became popular.
in about 500 sc. Until the mid 19th century, rice was The Kamakura period lasted just over 100 years and
not just a staple but an alternative currency and form was then followed by more than 200 years of political
of taxation. Many would argue that it is the soul of upheaval until, in 1603, Tokugawa leyasu unified the
Japan, inextricably bound up with the country’s history, country and established a military government in Edo
politics and culture, even its national characteristics (present-day Tokyo). In the late 12th century, austere
of being hard working and diligent. Rice cultivation is Zen sects arrived from China, bringing with them shdjin
labour-intensive and time-consuming — the character ryori, a strict Buddhist vegan cuisine, but also ten jin
for rice, 2K, incorporates a figure of 88, /\/\, asa — little snacks eaten between meals — a new cooking
rice plant needs to be tended to eighty-eight times method of deep-frying with oil and, most notably,
before producing a single grain. Rice growing also the reintroduction of tea. Zen Buddhism became
requires community effort; at each key stage villagers popular among the ruling samurai class (although the
form a production line and help each other. The social more pragmatic of them continued to eat meat), with
unity and cohesion that is essential for its cultivation the result that Zen influence was far reaching and its
is a highly respected virtue, even in today’s modern emphasis on certain tastes, colours, cooking techniques
industrialised society. Between 500 sc and the 3rd and presentations lives on today.
century Ac, rice cultivation became widespread, though
Tea was first introduced to Japan from China in the 6th
differences in soil quality, land management and skills
century, but was popular only with the aristocracy, who
led to disparities in wealth and power, and resulted
drank it for medicinal purposes. It was reintroduced
in the formation of numerous small countries. By the
by the Zen monk Eizai, founder of the Rinzai sect, in
beginning of the 7th century, central Japan unified
under the most able rice farming clan, who became the
Imperial Family.

The second most important event was the introduction

of Buddhism from China at the beginning of the 6th
century. Buddhists are forbidden to kill animals and
birds for food and in 676 ap the Emperor banned the
slaughter of cows, oxen and horses used for farming
and transport, birds that signalled daybreak, dogs that
kept watch during the night and monkeys that had a
sense of closeness to humans. Several more such orders
followed, so it is doubtful whether the ban was initially
successful, but as Buddhism became more widespread
meat disappeared and fish and beans became the main
sources of protein.

In 794 ap, the capital moved from Nara to Heian-

kyd(present day Kyoto). During the Heian period
(794-1192), as China went into a decline, Japan moved
away from Chinese influences. Towards the end of the
period, power struggles among the ruling Fujiwara
led to the rise of the martial element, personified by

8 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME thy

1191, who brought seeds, and by the 14th century it to press vinegar-flavoured rice into shapes. Equally
had become the most important non-alcoholic drink. popular in Edo was nigiri-zushi, hand-formed sushi,
Another Zen monk, Murata Junko established the Tea thought to have been invented by a chef called Yohei
Ceremony, incorporating the Zen philosophy of wabi (family names were allowed only for the samurai class) in
(serenity) and sabi (rustic simplicity). Around the second the 1820/30s. Many sushi chefs in Edo copied it, calling
half of the 16th century, Sen-no-Rikyd instituted rules it Edomae-zushi (meaning in front of Edo, referring to
governing every aspect, elevating the act of making a the Bay of Tokyo). Elsewhere regional specialities were
cup of tea into high art. It is impossible to overstate the popular, including battera, an Osaka speciality of cured
influence of the Tea Ceremony on almost all aspects mackerel pressed sushi, and funa-zushi, slow fermented
of Japanese culture, The Way of Tea also led to two carp from the Lake Biwa, which is believed to be similar
important aspects of Japanese cuisine: cha kaiseki, to the earliest form of sushi.
Japanese haute cuisine designed to be served as a light
The arrival of Commodore Perry and four American
meal before a tea ceremony, and wagashi, traditional
battleships in 1853 resulted in the beginning of the
confectionary that is served with tea.
Meiji Period (1868-1912) and a desire to modernise.
In 1543 ap, a Chinese boat with Portuguese passengers The reopening of foreign trade brought a wave of new
was shipwrecked off the coast of Kyushu, prompting foods, including cabbages, onions, tomatoes, peaches,
nearly a century of trading with Europe until, in 1633, apples, coffee, milk and beer. More significantly, it
Japan again closed its doors. To Japanese eyes, heralded the end of starvation as the main cause of
Europeans were large, clumsy and hairy, but trading death — contrary to popular belief, Japan didn’t grow
with them brought new foods and drinks, including enough rice until the 1960s, when demand fell due to
cane sugar, potato, sweet potato, kabocha squash, the popularity of a more Westernised diet. Initially, the
bread, sponge cake, wine and the most famous culinary speed and ferocity of modernisation was astonishing.
import of all, tempura, arguably the best example of Fortunately, as the nation became better informed and
how Japanese cuisine adopts something from abroad gained more confidence, the new arrivals settled into a

and transforms it into a Japanese dish. place. Dishes such as karei-raisu, curry and rice, korokke,
croquettes, tonkatsu, breaded pork cutlets, omu-
It was during the Edo Period in the 17th century that the raisu, omelette wrapped rice, and ebi-furai (deep-fried
Japanese cuisine as we know it today was established. prawns) were typical homestyle cooking of the Meiji era
A strict caste system was imposed to restore political and they remain family favourites today.
stability, with samurai at the top, followed first by
In the boom and bust years that followed the Second
farmers (almost 90 per cent of the population), and then
World War, many predicted the decline of Japanese
craftsmen, leaving merchants and traders, who posed
food culture, citing the electric rice cooker, instant cup
a potential economic threat, at the bottom. Although
noodles, instant miso soup and take away fast food as
socially the second tier, farmers were prohibited, except
the cause. Yet the numerous cookery programmes on
on a few special occasions, from eating rice. This led
television and the huge number of cookbooks confirm
to the rise of noodles, especially soba noodles as soba
that modern Japanese are still very interested in the
(buckwheat) is not only fast growing (75 days from sowing
preparation of good food at home. The desire to adapt
to harvest) but can also be grown almost anywhere.
outside influences to local tastes has never waned and
The self-imposed isolation also reinforced the Buddhist has produced such unique fusions of East and West as
vegetarian diet. The nation looked inward and enjoyed green tea ice cream, seaweed-flavoured potato chips
a period of stability and prosperity. Farmers grew more and cod-roe spaghetti. Having relinquished its proud
rice, which not only meant more food, but also more second position in the world economic ranking to China,
sake and rice vinegar. The latter transformed the sushi- Japan‘s confidence has taken a knock, but it has made
making process from weeks or months of long, slow, the nation more humble and led to a reassessment of
natural fermentation to a few hours. Hako-zushi, box
traditional values, including the way we cook and eat.
sushi, was the most popular, and used wooden moulds Simple home cooked food is once again rising.
Smee

INTRODUCTION 9
APPETISERS
HIJIK!I AND DEEP-FRIED CHILLED TOFU
TOFU IN SOY HIYAYAKKO
HIJIKI TO AGE NO NIMONO
Tofu is soybean curd. Soybeans are soaked in water,
Hijiki, a dark edible seaweed, is popular and highly crushed, boiled and strained to make soy milk then
nutritious. It contains twice as much calcium as konbu, coagulated with traditional nigari, bittern, which
kelp, and is also rich in iron and magnesium. It is high mostly consists of magnesium chloride of traditionally
in fibre, aiding healthy digestion and helping to lower made sea salt, (see note on tofu, page 156). Tofu is
blood pressure. Outside Japan it is sold dried and rich in well balanced soy protein but low in calories
needs to be soaked and softened before cooking. and carbohydrates, it’s completely fat free and an
ideal health food. In Japan, tofu is used fresh usually
on the day it is made. In the West, however, tofu can
SERVES 4
be kept for a few days in fresh water and chilled in the
50g dried hijiki, preferably softer me-hijiki variety
refrigerator. Chilled tofu with a dash of soy sauce and
2 aburaage, deep-fried tofu
various choice toppings is one of the classics.
Ya tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into julienne strips
Ya tablespoon sugar SERVES 4
200ml! Dashi (see page 29) about 100g soft silken tofu per person
2-3 tablespoons soy sauce FOR THE TOPPINGS
1 tablespoon toasted white sesame seeds chopped spring onions
grated fresh ginger
Rinse the hijiki in plenty of water, then soak in a bowl of thinly sliced shiso, perilla leaves
warm water for 20 minutes, and drain. katsuo-bushi, dried bonito flakes
umeboshi, pickled plum
Place the deep-fried tofu in a sieve, pour over boiling
chirimenjako, dried small young sardines or
water to de-grease, then pat dry and cut into small strips.
anchovies
Heat the oil in a large deep-sided frying pan or wok diced tomato with basil leaves
over a medium heat, add the hijiki and sauté for 2-3 crispy bacon bits
minutes before adding the tofu and carrot. Cook for a scrambled egg and cress
further 1-2 minutes, then add the sugar and cook for chopped olives
4-5 minutes before adding the dashi and soy sauce.
Reduce the heat to very low and place a drop-lid (see Remove the tofu from its packaging and drain by
page 134), or an improvised cover with cooking foil, letting it stand on an angled chopping board for
on the pan and simmer for 20-30 minutes or until the 10-15 minutes. Then cut into’4 equal size blocks and
cooking juice is reduced by a third. Remove from the garnish with toppings of your choice.
heat, add the sesame seeds and let it cool in the pan
with the lid in place. It is during this cooling down Instead of presenting the tofu into blocks, you may
period that the flavours develop. also roughly crumble it and serve in small cups with
teaspoons.
This dish is typically served at room temperature, but if
you prefer it hot, reheat briefly just before serving.

It will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 5 days.

12 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SAVOURY EGG TOFU
TAMAGO-DOFU

A deliciously light, savoury egg custard, delicate and tin in a bain marie, resting it on chopsticks or a folded
smooth, that is usually served chilled. Although this towel so that the bottom of the tin is insulated from the
dish is named ‘tofu’, due to its soft, smooth texture, base of the bain marie. Insulate further by placing more
bean curd is not an ingredient in this dish. The one folded towels around the sides of the tin. Cover the
simple rule to follow if adjusting this recipe to serve tin by gently placing a single sheet of crinkled foil over
any number, is to use equal amounts of dashi to the the top like a tent. All those protective measures are
volume of beaten eggs. In Japan, it is usually served to ensure that the tofu is only cooked by an even, mild
with the edible garnish of shiso, perilla flowers, which heat to give a soft and smooth texture. Fill the bain
are sadly difficult to find outside the country. Cherry marie with hot water halfway up the sides of the tin.
tomatoes and basil are useful substitutes.
Put the tin and bain marie in a steamer and steam over
a high heat for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and
continue steaming for another 25 minutes. Or if you
SERVES 4 don’t have a large steamer, place the arrangement in a
6 eggs, beaten (about 300ml) large baking tray filled with hot water up to just below
300m! Dashi or Vegetarian Dashi (see pages 29-31) the depth of the arrangement and place in a preheated
Ya tablespoon salt 220°C/gas mark 7 oven for 30 minutes. The tofu is done
1¥% tablespoon mirin when a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out
3 tablespoons light soy sauce clean. Do not worry about any clear broth seeping out
TO GARNISH of the hole made by the toothpick — this will reseal.
2 baby cherry tomatoes, halved The custard should not be dry nor firm but wobble a
4 basil leaves little if you tap the side. Carefully lift the tin out of the
steamer or the oven and let it cool down a little before
refrigerating overnight.
Line a 20cm square baking tin (a chocolate brownie tin
is ideal because of its clean edges) with foil so that the To serve, lift out the custard by picking up the two
foil extends over two opposite sides of the tin by 5cm ends of the foil and transferring to a chopping board,
at each end. Make sure the foil is not wrinkled at the still resting on the foil. Cut into four blocks. Place each
bottom and do not oil or butter. block in an individual dish. Garnish with 1 half cherry
tomato and 1 basil leaf on the centre of each block
Beat the eggs thoroughly then pour through a fine
and serve.
mesh sieve in a large bowl. In another larger bowl,
mix the dashi, salt, mirin and soy sauce until the salt
is dissolved completely. Stir the eggs into the dashi
mixture until evenly mixed. Pour the mixture through a
fine mesh sieve again back into the bowl, ensuring it is
thoroughly combined.

Gently pour the egg mixture into the prepared tin and
spoon off any tiny bubbles on the surface. Place the

14 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

GRILLED AUBERGINE WITH SEASONED MISO
NASU-DENGAKU

The rather bland, spongy flesh of aubergine is

another ideal canvas for the robust dengaku miso.
As aubergines found in the West tend to be much
bigger than their Japanese counterparts, | allow half
per person.

Pd

SERVES 4 Preheat the grill to high. Leave the stems on the

2 aubergines aubergines, as they look attractive, and cut in half
2 tablespoons vegetable oil lengthways. Prick the aubergines all over and score the
100g dengaku miso of your choice (see page 24) cut surface in a criss-cross pattern (this will help them soak
2 teaspoons poppy seeds, to garnish up the miso topping). Heat the oil in a large frying pan
over a medium heat and cook the aubergine, cut-side
down, for 8-10 minutes, or until tender. Spread the miso
topping on the cut side, sprinkle with the poppy seeds
and place under the grill for 2-3, until lightly browned.

APPETISERS |5
SPINACH AND TOFU JELLY

This is a very pretty, delicious and healthy starter that Cook the spinach in salted boiling water for 30
you can prepare in advance. Kanten (agar-agar) is the seconds and drain very well. With a food mixer or food
Japanese equivalent of gelatine but is made from a processor, blitz the cooked spinach into a thick paste.
seaweed called Ceylon moss and hence vegetarian. It Roughly break up the tofu with your hands.
is also ten times more coagulant and completely fat
Put the dashi and kanten in a saucepan and dissolve
and calorie-free. Because it is rich in calcium, iron and
over a medium heat. Bring to the boil for 2 minutes.
edible fibre this makes it an ideal diet food.
Add the tofu, sugar, sake and salt. When the tofu
begins to float to the surface, turn off the heat. Add
the spinach and stir once or twice, to mix through, then
SERVES 4 pour the mixture into a mould (15 x 20 x 4cm) to set at
250g spinach room temperature, before tranferring to the fridge to
100g soft silken tofu chill until ready to serve. (Kanten sets at 40°C, which is
250ml Dashi (see page 29) higher than normal room temperature).
2g kanten, agar-agar powder
Cut into thick slices and serve with a drizzle of tamari
1 tablespoon sugar
soy Sauce.
2 teaspoons sake
Ya teaspoon salt NOTE ON TAMARI
drizzle of tamari soy sauce, to serve Tamari is a type of soy sauce but unlike dark or light
soy sauce, it is made of pure soybean with no addition
of wheat. It is dark, thick and slightly sweet in taste and
used for dipping sashimi and sushi.

|I6 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

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DASHI-SOAKED SPINACH
Bei eINSO NO OHITASHI

Ohitashi is a popular and classic way to serve Put the dashi in a saucepan and briefly bring to the
vegetables such as spinach, cabbage or beansprouts. boil then add the rest of the broth ingredients. Remove
They are soaked in a dashi-based broth to enhance from the heat, transfer to a metal bowl then force-cool
their natural flavours as well as allowing them to soak by placing the metal bowl in a larger bowl filled with
up the subtle flavour of the broth. This dish is normally ice water. Swirl it around then set aside to cool.
served with garnishes such as toasted sesame seeds,
While the broth is cooling down, parboil the spinach
katsuobshi, or chirimenjako.
in salted water for 2-3 minutes. Drain and rinse under
cold running water until cold, then drain well by gently
wringing with your hands. Cut the spinach into 5cm
SERVES 4 lengths. Add the spinach to the cooled broth and mix.
FOR THE SOAKING BROTH You may prepare to this point and keep refrigerated
200ml Dashi or Vegetarian Dashi (see pages 29-31) for up to 6 hours.
pinch of salt To serve, take the spinach out of the broth, lightly drain
1 teaspoon mirin then divide between 4 individual dishes. Drizzle some
2 teaspoons soy sauce broth over the spinach and garnish with sesame seeds,
FOR THE SPINACH bonito flakes or chirimenjako.
400g spinach
COOK’S TIP
1 teaspoon salt
Try the same technique with other vegetables instead
OPTIONAL GARNISHES of the spinach, such as cabbage, Chinese cabbage,
white sesame seeds, freshly dry-toasted green beans, asparagus or beansprouts, adjusting the
katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes cooking time accordingly.
chirimenjako, dried small young sardines or anchovies
Sesame seeds are sold either ready-toasted or raw. To
dry-toast raw ones which are flat in appearance, put
the seeds in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat
while gently shaking the pan until the seeds begin to
jump and a nutty aroma rises.

APPETISERS 19
CUCUMBER AND WAKAME WITH VINEGAR
SUNO-MONO

Suno-mono, literally ‘vinegar flavoured things’ is Mix the sanbai-zu ingredients in a glass jar and
often found on Japanese menus where seasoned rice set aside.
vinegar is matched with fresh seasonal ingredients,
Put the wakame seaweed in a small glass bowl and
which are often raw or briefly prepared.
cover with cold water to soak for about 10 minutes.

In another bowl, mix the salt with 500m! cold water

SERVES 4
until dissolved. Thinly slice the cucumbers and put
them in the mild salt water for about 5-7 minutes — this
FOR THE SANBAI-ZU
refreshes the cucumber and makes them tender yet
100ml rice vinegar crispy, as well as brightening the green colour.
1% tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon light soy sauce Drain the wakame by squeezing by hand and roughly
Ya teaspoon salt cut into manageable lengths. Drain the cucumber slices
well and pat them dry with kitchen paper.
FOR THE SALAD
2 tablespoons dried wakame seaweed Put all the salad ingredients in a large glass bowl and
2 teaspoons salt add the sanbai-zu and toss lightly — do not over do this
2 Lebanese cucumbers as it will make the finished dish watery. Divide between
2 tablespoons white crabmeat 4, preferably glass, dishes and serve immediately.
2 teaspoons red pickled ginger or pink sushi ginger

CUCUMBER AND TUNA WITH SPICY SANBAI-ZU

Here is a variation on the above recipe with a bit Roughly chop the cucumbers into small bite-size pieces
of kick. and put in a glass bowl. Sprinkle the salt over and with
your hand squeeze and mix for a minute or two then
drain the liquid that comes out. Rinse the cucumbers
SERVES 4 under cold running water and drain well.
4 Lebanese cucumbers In a large bowl, mix the sanbai-zu with the sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt and chilli powder. Add the cucumbers and the drained
150g tin tuna in spring water, drained tuna into the bowl and mix and lightly drain before
FOR SPICY SANBAI-ZU dividing into 4 portions to serve.
4 tablespoons sanbai-zu (see above)
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Ys—V2 teaspoon shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli
powder

20 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

JAPANESE-STYLE
PRAWN COCKTAIL

This is an adaptation of a dish | came across in a

small restaurant in Tokyo.

SERVES 4

2 red onions
2 avocados, ripe but not too soft
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
200g cooked prawns, without shells and heads
a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley to garnish
FOR THE WASABI SOY
2 teaspoons wasabi powder
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce

Thinly slice the onions and soak in iced water for 8-10
minutes then drain.

Cut the avocados in half and remove the stone. Peel

the skin and cut the flesh into bite-size pieces. Put the
avocado pieces in a glass, or non-reactive bowl, and
sprinkle over the vinegar to stop it discolouring.

Mix the ingredients for the wasabi soy in a small bowl.

Put the onions, avocado and prawns in a large

mixing bowl, pour the wasabi soy over, then lightly
mix to coat.

Divide between 4 glasses, garnish with parsley leaves

and serve immediately.
SAVOURY JAPANESE PANCAKE
OKONOMI-YAKI|

Okonomi literally means ‘choice’ and the dish is Start by preparing the batter. Put the flour in a bowl
loosely translated as a savoury Japanese pancake. and whisk in half the dashi or soy and water mixture.
Although it is said that Sen-no-Rikyu, the founder Add the remaining liquid and continue to whisk
of the Tea Ceremony, invented it back in the late until the batter is smooth and lump-free. Cover the
16th century, okonomi-yaki as we recognise it today bowl with cling film and set aside for 30 minutes. It is
became a popular, cheap snack after the Second important to allow the batter to rest — this will make
World War. it taste less powdery and produce a smooth and light
In Japan, there are many regional varieties and pancake.
speciality restaurants are equipped with hot plate
Put half the cabbage in a large bowl, add the
tables. But you don’t need any special equipment to
batter and mix well. Add the eggs and the rest of
enjoy this highly versatile dish. This is a basic recipe
the cabbage with the spring onions and ginger
that you can expand using any filling ingredients of
and continue stirring, then divide the mixture into
your choice such as prawns, squid, scallops, canned
4 equal portions.
tuna, ham, chicken or minced beef.
Heat a large non-stick frying pan with % tablespoon of
oil. With a large serving spoon, spread about two-thirds
SERVES 4 of one batter portion into the hot frying pan and, using
the back of the spoon, spread it out to about a 15cm
FOR THE BATTER
circle (it will get bigger as it cooks). Add the rest of the
50g plain flour
batter mix on top and spread it out. Place one quarter
100ml Dashi (see page 29), or 2 tablespoons soy sauce
of the bacon to cover the top and cook the pancake
and 70ml water
over a high heat for 2-3 minutes. Use 2 flat spatulas to
FOR THEFILLING turn over the pancake and continue to cook for another
2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4-5 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm
200g Savoy cabbage, finely shredded while you repeat the process to cook 3 more pancakes.
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Spread the okonomi sauce evenly over the pancakes,
2 spring onions, finely chopped
using the back of a spoon, then sprinkle over the
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
aonori and bonito flakes and serve.
4 rashers unsmoked streaky bacon, halved lengthways
FOR THE TOPPING

okonomi sauce (HP, Brown or Worcestershire sauce are

good substitutes)
aonori, dried nori powder or crushed nori
a handful of katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes

22 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

YAKITORI

These delectable little bits of chicken and vegetables For the sauce, wash the chicken bones under running
grilled on skewers hardly needs any introduction. water, drain and pat them dry. Place the bones ona
Yakitori is a very popular snack served with drinks and lightly greased baking tray. Preheat the grill to 200°C
makes a perfect hot starter. The sauce keeps well up and grill for 15-20 minutes, turning over once, or until
to a month and can be used for barbecue dishes. any flesh still left on the bones turns white in colour.

Put the sake in a large saucepan and bring to the boil

to burn off the alcohol. Add the grilled bones and the
SERVES 4
remaining ingredients and simmer until the liquid has
FOR THE YAKITORI SAUCE reduced by one-third. Skim off any scum, strain and let
250g chicken bones it cool to room temperature before transferring into a
600ml sake sterilised glass container.
150ml dark soy sauce
Lower the grill to 180°C and drain the skewers.
250ml tamari soy sauce
125g sugar To make the chicken skewers, thread 3 pieces of
chicken and 2 pieces of leek onto each of 4 skewers,
FOR THE SKEWERS
starting with a piece of chicken and alternating with
200g chicken thigh fillets, cut into 12 even pieces
leek. Brush each skewer with the yakitori sauce, and set
2 baby leeks or thick spring onions, white part only,
them aside.
cut into 8 short lengths
8 baby sweetcorn, halved To make baby corn skewers, thread 4 pieces onto each
8 asparagus spears, cut into 5cm length pieces of 4 skewers and brush them with the yakitori sauce,
12 small shiitake mushroom caps and set them aside.
shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder
To make asparagus skewers, allow 4 pieces for each
16 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for
skewer and brush them with the yakitori sauce, and set
at least 1 hour
them aside.

To make shiitake mushroom skewers, thread 3 caps

onto each of 4 skewers and brush them with the yakitori
sauce, and set them aside.

Place all the skewers under the hot grill for 2-3 minutes,
turn over and brush them with the sauce, then cook for
a further 1-2 minutes. Take out all the skewers, except
the chicken, and baste them with the sauce. Keep
them warm. Continue to cook the chicken skewers for
another 2-3 minutes.

Arrange the skewers on a large plate, brush on both

COOK’S TIP
sides with the more sauce, sprinkle with chilli powder
Any left-over sauce will keep in a sterilised jam jars
and serve.
placed in the refrigerator for up to a month.

Sirians
cn nn

APPETISERS 23
GRILLED TOFU WITH SEASONED MISO
TORU-=DENGAKU

The term dengaku derives from the ancient As it is almost impossible to make dengaku miso
agricultural ritual music of the same name where the toppings in small quantities and as they keep well
musicians dressed in white and danced to pray for refrigerated for a few weeks, prepare them in advance
good rice harvest. The traditional method requires and use as needed.
specially designed flat bamboo skewers and careful
The method is the same:for the white or red miso
handling of delicate tofu, which is rather tricky, so |
topping: combine the miso in a double boiler with
have adapted the recipe using a grill without skewers
the egg yolks, sake, mirin and sugar. Put the pot
to suit Western home kitchens.
over hot water and heat gently to keep the water
simmering. Gradually add the dashi and stir until the
mixture thickens and turns glossy, then turn off the
SERVES 4
heat. Just before turning off the heat, add one of the
FOR THE DENGAKU MISO TOPPINGS (choose white or red) fragrant seasonings of your choice, varying the quantity
according to taste, and mix well.
FOR THE WHITE MISO
200g white or light-coloured miso Cut the tofu block into four blocks and then slice
2 egg yolks each block in half to make 8 pieces. Place the pieces
2 tablespoons sake on a chopping board lined with kitchen paper. Put a
2 tablespoons mirin chopstick under one end of the board to prop it up at
2 tablespoons sugar an angle, so that the liquid can run down, cover the tofu
7 tablespoons Water Dashi or Vegetarian Dashi pieces with more kitchen paper and place a baking tray
(see page 31) on top of the tofu as a weight. Leave the tofu to drain
FOR THE RED MISO for 10-15 minutes. The tofu pieces should feel quite
150g red or dark-coloured miso firm to handle.
50g white miso Preheat the grill to high. Grill the tofu for about
2 egg yolks 3 minutes on each side, or until the surface is speckled
2 tablespoons sake brown and the tofu is heated through. Remove from
2 tablespoons mirin the grill and spread one side of each piece of tofu with
2 tablespoons sugar the miso topping, to about 2.4mm thickness, sprinkle
7 tablespoons Water or Vegetarian Dashi (see page 31) with your chosen garnish and return to the grill for 1-2
FRAGRANT SEASONINGS (choose one of the below) minutes. Serve 2 pieces per person.
ground toasted white or black sesame seeds, for
a nutty flavour
grated rind of yuzu, lemon or lime, for a refreshing
taste
grated fresh ginger, for mild heat
FORE TORU
200g firm cotton tofu
poppy seeds, toasted
white or black sesame seeds, to garnish

24 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

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SOUPS, SASHIMI
AND SALADS
SOUPS SHIRU-MONO

In Japanese the entire category of soups is known with vegetables, mushrooms or seaweed and there
as shiru-mono, literally ‘liquid things’, that includes are many prescribed combinations. For example,
both consommé-type clear and thick soups with the paper-thin squares of nori go well with bamboo
latter being by far the largest group. Soups occupy an shoot; slices of mushroom with shellfish; julienned
important and prominent position in Japanese cuisine strips of boiled burdock with sea bream and so on.
— the most basic format of a Japanese meal is ‘ichi-jG But the pairing combination need not be bound by
i-ssai’, one soup and one side dish to accompany the the convention and the cook can create their own
main rice. While in an elaborate multi-course banquet, complementary combinations. The third element is
soups appear at both the beginning and the end purely for aroma and fragrance and is often not to
and sometimes at the midpoint as a palate cleanser, be eaten. These garnishes include mitsuba, trefoil,
like sorbet. It is often said that such a clear soup is kinome, tender leaves of Japanese pepper, yuzu or
impressive in its purity and restraint, a show-piece lemon zest.
for a professional chef, while a simple bowl of miso
Alongside elegant clear soups, there is the large
soup is otherwise known as ‘mother's taste’, which no
category of ‘thick’ soups, which includes miso soups
restaurant chefs can match.
and other hearty soups full of meat, fish and vegetables
Although | believe in a minimalist approach to that are more like Western stews. Paraphrasing M.F.K.
kitchen equipment and encourage use of what you Fisher, miso is to Japanese cooking what butter is to
already have, maybe with little improvisation, in French cuisine and olive oil to Italian cooking. Beneath
order to maximise the pleasure of Japanese soups miso’s omnipresence in the Japanese kitchen lies a
especially clear types, lidded lacquer bowls are a great wealth of common sense - it not only takes just a few
investment. With a lidded bowl, one gets to enjoy a minutes to prepare but a typical serving provides about
clear soup three times — first in keen anticipation diners one-sixth of the adult daily requirement of protein.
remove the cover, second, a cloud of exquisite fragrant Furthermore, it is impossible for miso soup to be
steam rises, and finally in the middle of the clear broth boring — with almost endless choices of both seasonal
floats an elegant arrangement, may that be a bite-size and all-year-round ingredients.
slice of young bamboo shoot sitting among wakame
A bowl of soup in Japan, whether it's a sophisticated
seaweed with a tiny fragrant sprig of sansho pepper
clear soup or a rustic miso soup, always begins with
leaves called kinome or a pink curl of prawn nestled
good dashi.
next to a beautifully shaped slice of winter melon
and a sliver of citrus rind set at a jaunty angle. Soups,
especially clear ones, are both simple in their clarity
as well as the ultimate expression of sophistication in
their restraint.

Sui-mono, clear soup, is made according to a

deceptively simple formula: stock and usually 3 solid
elements that lend texture, flavour, colour and aroma.
The first is the main component, often consisting of a
bite-size piece of fish, or part of the fish head, with the
eye reserved for the guest of honour, shellfish, chicken,
egg, tofu, or a cooked vegetable such as bamboo
shoot. The second will visually complement the first

28 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

DASHI - THE INVISIBLE PRIMARY DASHI
FOUNDATION OF ICHIBAN DASHI
JAPANESE CUISINE

Ichiban dashi is delicate tasting with an exquisite

There is a saying in Japan that food is to be eaten aroma. It is mainly used in clear consommé-type
with the eye — meaning that it should not only taste soups for its fragrance and as a stock base for
good but also be a feast for the eye. But there is one simmered and steamed dishes. Well-made ichiban
element that is not apparent to the eye called ‘dashi’, dashi is so delicious and fragrant that it is good
the stock that forms the foundation of, and invisibly enough to drink on its own. Ichiban dashi does not
penetrates, much of Japanese cuisine. keep well as the aroma fades if left to stand, so make
it just before it is needed and use it immediately. It
Dashi, unlike Western stock where simple ingredients takes less than 15 minutes.
are simmered for a long time, is instead a selection of
carefully prepared ingredients that are briefly soaked
in water or heated so as to extract nothing other than
MAKES | LITRE
the very essence of the ingredients’ flavour. Indeed, the
correct term of making dashi is ‘to draw’ it. 1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
1 litre soft mineral water or filtered tap water, left to
Dashi most commonly uses a combination of konbu, stand overnight or boiled then cooled to disperse
kelp and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes), but other any chloric smell
ingredients such as dried shiitake mushrooms or 30g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes
niboshi (small dried fish) are also used. In general,
there are two types — ichiban (primary) dashi and niban
Place the kelp and water in a saucepan gently heat,
(secondary) dashi.
uncovered, to just below boiling point where tiny
In Japanese cuisine, dashi provides a subtle undertone bubbles begin to appear — this should take about
to almost all foods. It is not an overstatement to say 10-12 minutes. Don't allow the water to reach a full
that dashi is at the heart of Japanese cuisine, not boil, and if necessary add 60m! of water to keep the
because of the prominence of its own flavour, but temperature steady. Kelp emits a strong odour and will
because of the way it enhances and harmonises the discolour the water if boiled, so remove it immediately
flavours of other ingredients. The quintessence of when the bubbles start to appear and set aside. Bring
Japanese cooking is not to change nor to impose but the water to a rapid boil briefly and add 60ml cold
to enhance and harmonise the taste and flavour of water and turn off the heat. Add the bonito flakes but
natural ingredients. do not stir and allow the flakes to settle naturally on
the bottom of the pan. Skim off any scum that has risen
Before the age of instant seasonings, almost every to the surface. Strain the dashi through a muslin-lined
Japanese meal began with making fresh dashi from sieve and use immediately. Reserve the bonito flakes
scratch, Today, most Japanese home cooks rely on and kelp for Secondary Dashi (see page 30).
instant dashi, packaged granules that dissolve in
hot water, generically called dashi-no-moto, and NOTE
you probably will turn to this instant method also. In this book where dashi is listed as an ingredient, it
Although some are excellent, nothing compares with refers to primary dashi unless otherwise stated.
the subtle flavour and delicate aroma of freshly made
dashi. | believe it is important that you understand the
traditional method especially when it is neither difficult
nor time consuming.

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 29

SECONDARY DASHI NIBAN-DASHI

While primary dashi holds the namesake prime Put the reserved bonito flakes and kelp in a large
position because of its fragrance, subtle flavour saucepan with the water and heat gently, uncovered,
and clarity, secondary dashi is versatile as a basic until just below boiling point when tiny bubbles begin
seasoning for many dishes including soups, noodle to appear. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for
broths, cooking stock for vegetables, dipping sauces 15-20 minutes, until the liquid has reduced by about
and salad dressing. one-third. Add the dried bonito flakes and immediately
remove from the heat. Allow a few minutes for the
flakes to settle at the bottom of the pan, then strain
through a muslin-lined sieve and wring thoroughly to
MAKES ABOUT | LITRE
squeeze out every drop.
katsuobushi, bonito flakes, and kelp, reserved from
Primary Dashi (see page 29 or tip below) Unlike its older brother, secondary dashi can be stored
1.5 litres soft mineral or tap water, left to stand in the fridge for 2 days or frozen for up to 3 months in
overnight or boiled then cooled, to disperse an airtight container.
any chloric smell
TIP
15g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes
If you just want to make secondary dashi alone from
fresh, put a postcard-size piece of dried kelp, 30g of
bonito flakes and 1.5 litres of cold water in a saucepan,
and heat gently over a medium heat. Reduce the
heat when small bubbles begin to appear and try to
maintain the water temperature at a steady simmer
for 4-5 minutes (add 60ml of cold water if necessary to
keep the temperature steady). Strain through a muslin-
lined sieve and the dashi is ready for use.

30 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

WATER DASHI VEGETARIAN DASHI
MIZU-DASHI SHOJIN-DASHI

Since the flavour and nutrients of kelp infuse water, Shdjin-dashi is a fish-free stock suitable for any
it is actually not necessary to heat it to make dashi. vegetarian dishes and features widely in the Shdjin
Soaking for around 8 hours yields a delicious dashi. cuisine — Buddhist vegetarian cooking. It can be made
Because of the simplicity of the method, it is of with many varieties of dried vegetables such as dried
paramount importance to choose the best quality gourd strips, dried soybeans, and kiriboshi daikon
kelp possible — look out for thick, wide (no less than (dried daikon), but the most popular combination is
15cm across) leaves, in dark rich amber with whitish dried shiitake mushrooms and kelp. While water dashi
powder encrusting the surface. Also the quality is delicate and delicious, for some it lacks in depth,
of water is important — if possible use soft mineral but with an addition of dried shiitake mushrooms this
water such as Welsh spring water or Volvic. Do not vegetarian dashi has fuller flavour.
leave the kelp soaking for more than 8 hours as
in addition to the glutamate which gives the most
umami, other unwanted substances like alginic acid
MAKES 1.2 LITRES
and minerals also seep out and discolour the water
3-4 dried shiitake mushrooms
and the water becomes glutinous. Good quality kelp
200ml boiling water
can be reused up to 3 times for this method. 1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
1 litre cold soft mineral water

MAKES | LITRE
Place the mushrooms in a bowl, pour the boiling water
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp over and leave for 10-15 minutes to soak.
1 litres soft mineral or tap water, left to stand
overnight or boiled then cooled, to disperse Meanwhile, put the kelp in a saucepan with the cold
any chloric smell water and heat over a gentle heat until tiny bubbles
begin to appear, this should take about 10-15 minutes.
Remove the seaweed immediately then turn off the
Wipe the kelp lightly with a clean damp cloth. Fill a large
heat.
glass bowl with the water and add the kelp. Let it stand
to soak at room temperature for 8 hours. Strain the shiitake soaking water through a fine mesh
strainer and add to the pan. Combine. Strain the dashi
through a sieve lined with kitchen paper and it is ready
to use. This keeps for 2-3 days refrigerated.

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 3!

MACKEREL CLEAR SOUP TIGER PRAWN CLEAR SOUP
SABA NO SENBA-JIRU EB] NO SUIMONO

This hearty soup was a speciality of Senba (in Osaka). This is another classic clear soup that is relatively easy
The key to its success lies in removing the strong fishy to prepare at home. | have substituted mitsuba, trefoil
smell of mackerel by prior salting. If you can’t fillet a Japanese wild chervil with coriander leaves.
fish, ask your fishmonger to do it and get them to give
you the head and back bone for use in the stock.
SERVES 4
8 tiger prawns in shells, each weighing 20g
SERVES 4 2 tablespoons cornflour, for dusting
1 mackerel, filleted, head and backbone reserved 600ml Dashi (see page 29)
3 tablespoons sake 1 tablespoon sake
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
80g daikon, giant white radish or turnip, peeled and 4 sprigs of coriander
cut into bite-size pieces finely shredded lemon zest
80g carrot, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces salt
800ml soft mineral water
2 spring onions, roughly chopped on the diagonal Shell the prawns, remove the heads but leave the tails,
2-3 teaspoons light soy sauce and devein. Reserve the shells and heads. Wash and
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger pat dry with kitchen paper and lightly sprinkle with salt
salt dust with cornflour. Bring a pot of 600ml! water with
1 teaspoon of salt to the boil and blanch the prawns
Roughly chop the head and backbone, then sprinkle
for 2 minutes, drain and keep warm.
with a generous amount of salt and set aside for 1 hour.
Cut the fillets into 3-4cm pieces and salt to stand for Meanwhile, put the reserved shells and heads in a pot
30 minutes. Both the bones and fillets will be covered with the dashi and bring to just below the boil over
with beads of moisture. Wipe dry with kitchen paper. a medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer
Quickly blanch in a pot of boiling water, then plunge in for 3-5 minutes until the prawn shells turn bright red,
cold water and pat dry again. then remove from the dashi and discard using a slotted
spoon. Season the dashi with sake, soy sauce and salt
Put the sake, kelp, backbone, head and fillets, radish
according to your taste.
and carrot in a large saucepan with the 800ml of
water and slowly bring to the boil over a medium The soup must be served hot, so warm soup bowls with
heat, skimming off any scum that floats to the surface. hot (not boiling) water.
Remove the kelp just before it reaches the boil, when
Arrange 2 prawns, tails up in each warmed bowl,
small bubbles begin to rise. Reduce the heat to low and
place a sprig of coriander and shredded lemon zest in
simmer for 10 minutes, continuing to skim off any scum.
between the prawns. Carefully ladle in the seasoned
The soup must be served hot, so warm soup bowls with dashi around the prawns so that it does not splash and
hot (not boiling) water. disturb the arrangement and serve immediately.

Remove the head and backbone and add the spring

onions. Season with soy sauce and salt (if needed). Add
the grated fresh ginger, turn off the heat and divide the
soup between four soup bowls and serve immediately.

32 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SWIRLING EGG CLEAR SOUP KAKITAMA-JIRU

This is probably one of the most popular clear The soup must be served hot, so warm your soup bowls
soups that is made more often at home rather than with hot (not boiling) water.
in restaurants. It is easy to make, visually pleasing,
In a saucepan, bring the dashi to just below the boil,
nourishing and very tasty.
then simmer over a low heat. Season to taste with sake,
soy sauce and salt. Add the cornflour mixture and stir
for 30 seconds to thicken.
SERVES 4
600ml Dashi (see page 29) Slowly pour in the beaten egg in a spiral over the entire
1 tablespoon sake surface of the soup. Resist the urge to stir immediately,
1 tablespoon light soy sauce but wait for about 30 seconds to allow the eggs to
settle and then stir gently with a wire whisk for about
2 tablespoons cornflour mixed with 2 tablespoons
a minute. The eggs should appear as if they are thread-
cold water
like filaments.
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Ya teaspoon finely grated lemon zest Finally add the lemon zest and immediately remove
2 tablespoons cress, to garnish from the heat. Ladle the soup into the warmed bowls,
salt garnish with cress and serve immediately.

CLEAR SOUP WITH SEA BREAM TAI NO SUIMONO

This is an adaptation of a classic recipe which uses The soup must be served hot, so warm your soup bowls
the head and bones of a sea bream. Tai, sea bream, with hot (not boiling) water.
is arguably the most prized fish in Japan and almost
Bring a pot of 600ml water with a teaspoon of salt to
every part of the fish is used.
the boil and blanch the fish fillets for 2 minutes. Drain
and keep the fish warm.

In a separate pot, bring 400m! water with a pinch of salt

SERVES 4
to the boil and blanch the asparagus for 2-3 minutes.
4 x 50g fillets of sea bream Drain and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Cut each
4 asparagus spears, trimmed spear into 3 angled pieces and set aside.
600ml Dashi (see page 29)
1 tablespoon light soy sauce Put the dashi in a pot and heat to just below the
salt boil. Season with soy sauce and salt to your taste
a pinch of cress, to garnish ~ remember not to over-season as the elegance of
the soup is in its restraint.

Arrange the fish, asparagus pieces and cress in each

bowl and gently ladle in the dashi. Serve immediately.

Ear EEE EEE

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 35

MISO

For a Japanese person, a bowl of steaming hot miso AKA-MISO, red miso, which includes the famous Sendai
soup and freshly cooked rice evokes a taste of home. miso, comes in both smooth and grainy textures. It is
Miso, fermented soybeans, is packed with easily salty in taste and, like shinshU-miso, is another good
digestible soy protein and is the oldest and one of all-rounder.
the most important ingredients in Japanese cuisine.
HACCHO-MISO, is made purely from soybeans and is
Every Japanese person, on average, consumes a few
extremely rich and salty with a hint of bitterness. It is
spoonfuls a day in one form or another. Miso can be
steely dark brown in colour, and almost dry and hard
thinned and then used to make a dressing, left in its
in texture. It takes its name after the village of Haccho
thick state as a pickling and marinating medium, spread
outside Nagoya, where a former Samurai turned miso
on grilled foods as in dengaku or added to simmered
maker settled in the middle of the 16th century.
dishes. But by far, miso is consumed in great quantities
in soups served at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Miso is made all over Japan, with regional variations

each offering its own aroma, flavour, taste, colour and
texture and often named after its region of origin. It is
essentially fermented soybean — made from boiled and
crushed soybeans with an addition of k6ji (malt) which
is mostly made from rice (around 80 per cent) wheat
or barley. The soybean mixture is left to mature for 6
months or even up to 3 years. It comes in either smooth
or grainy texture and ranges in colour from pale cream
to almost steely dark brown. An average household in
Japan usually has more than one type of miso and will
choose one according to its use. For example, mild
light-coloured miso for marinating or darker-coloured
miso for soup served at the end of an evening meal.
If you are going to get just one type, buy the versatile
smooth-textured, medium-coloured miso.

THE MOST POPULAR TYPES INCLUDE:

SHIRO-MISO, a white miso which is creamy soft, smooth
textured and mild flavoured. Saiky6 miso from Kyoto
is the most well-known of this type. Good for soups,
dressing and marinade (as in the famous ‘black cod’).

SHINSHU-MISO, takes its name from the mountainous

central part of the main island, Nagano Prefecture,
where it is made. It is smooth textured and deep yellow
in colour, tends to be on the salty side in taste and is a
good all-rounder.

36 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

GRILLED AUBERGINE JAPANESE
MISO SOUP ONION SOUP
YAKINASU NO MISO-SHIRU TAMANEGI NO MOSI-SHIRU

A rich and smoky flavoured soup, which lends well This is the Japanese answer to the famous French
to being served in shallow Western-style soup bowls onion soup. The slow cooked onions gives an almost
perhaps as a starter for robust beef or lamb dishes. sweet flavour to the broth.

SERVES 4 SERVES 4
2 aubergines 800g onions, thinly sliced
600ml Dashi (see page 29) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 tablespoons white miso 800ml soft mineral water
1 tablespoon dark or red miso 40g medium-coloured miso
English mustard, to serve light soy sauce, to taste
2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Preheat the grill to the highest setting. Prick the

aubergines with a fork and grill until the skin is Put about 40g of the onion slices in a bowl of cold
blackened all over, turning occasionally until cooked water and set aside. Put the rest of the onions in a
through. Remove from the grill and allow the heavy-based saucepan with the vegetable oil. Place a
aubergines to cool. Peel off the blackened skin and piece of dampened greaseproof paper directly on top
cut the flesh into large bite-size pieces. Set aside and of the onions. Cover tightly with a lid and cook over a
keep warm. very low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are
tender — this will take 30-40 minutes.
The soup must be served hot, so warm your soup
bowls with hot (not boiling) water. Add the 800ml of water to the pan and bring to the boil
over a high heat. Put the miso in a small bowl and add
Pour the dashi into a pan over a medium heat and
a ladleful of soup liquid and mix to soften the mixture
bring to just below the boil, then reduce the heat to
then return to the soup. Taste and adjust the seasoning
low and maintain the temperature.
with soy sauce, if necessary, and let the soup return to
Put the miso pastes in a bowl and mix to blend, then the boil. Once at the boil, turn off the heat immediately.
add a ladle of hot dashi from the saucepan and stir
The soup must be served hot, so warm 4 soup bowls
to soften the pastes. Add the mixture back into the
with hot (not boiling) water.
saucepan, bring to the boil and immediately turn off
the heat. Drain the soaked onion slices. Divide the soup between
the warmed soup bowls, add the drained onion slices,
Arrange the aubergine pieces in the centre of the
garnish with the parsley and serve.
warmed soup bowls. Gently ladle in the soup around
the aubergines, put a small dab of mustard on the top
and serve.

II I I II I

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 37

TOFU AND WAKAME MISO SOUP
TOFU TO WAKAME NO MISO-SHIRU

Among countless variations of miso soups this is an Soak the dried seaweed in 4 tablespoons of water
absolute classic, especially for breakfast. You could for 10-15 minutes and drain. Meanwhile, to drain the
consider it Japan's equivalent of marmite on toast. tofu, wrap it in kitchen paper, microwave for 2 minutes
(850kw), and cut into 1cm cubes.

Pour the dashi into a saucepan and bring to the boil

S ERV ES4
over a medium-high heat. Put the miso pastes in a
20g dried wakame seaweed small bowl and mix well, then add a ladleful of warm
200g tofu (either soft silken or firm cotton)
dashi from the pot to soften.
800ml Dashi, Water Dashi or Vegetarian
Dashi (see pages 29-31) The soup must be served hot, so warm 4 soup bowls
1 heaped tablespoon light-coloured miso with hot (not boiling) water.
1 heaped tablespoon medium-coloured miso Add the seaweed, tofu and miso mixture to the pan and
2 spring onions, finely chopped on the diagonal
let the soup return to the boil for a few seconds, then
turn off the heat immediately. (Never let the miso soup
reach a rapid boil as it will spoil the flavour.)

Ladle into the warmed bowls, garnish with the spring

onions and serve immediately.

ALTERNATIVE FLAVOURINGS
Tofu and aburaage, deep-fried tofu with chopped
spring onions

Tofu and shiitake mushrooms with cress

Tofu and mangetout

Tofu and broccoli with ground sesame seeds

38 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

GIANT WHITE RADISH THREE MUSHROOM AND
WITH DEEP-FRIED TOFU SPINACH MISO SOUP
MISO SOUP KINOKO TO HORENSO NO
DAIKON TO ABURAAGE MISO-SHIRU
NO MISO-SriRU
The beauty of this recipe, apart from its deliciousness
of course, is that by using the soaking juices of dried
Daikon is one of the most commonly used vegetables
shiitake mushrooms, there is no need to prepare dashi.
in Japanese cooking and there is always a piece to
be found in the fridge. Aburaage are thin, deep-fried
sheets of tofu. They are normally sold frozen outside
SERVES 4
Japan.
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
800ml soft mineral water
100g shimeji mushrooms
SERVES 4
100g enoki mushrooms
1 aburaage, deep-fried tofu
50g spinach leaves, roughly chopped
100g daikon, giant white radish, peeled
40g medium-coloured miso
800ml dashi of your choice (see pages 29-31)
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
40g medium-coloured miso
2 spring onions, finely chopped on the diagonal, to
Put the dried shiitake mushrooms in a saucepan with
garnish
800m water and set aside for 10-15 minutes while
sprinkle of shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder,
you prepare the other mushrooms. When the shiitake
optional
mushrooms become soft in the water, take them out
with a slotted spoon and squeeze to extract as much
Pour boiling water over the deep-fried tofu to degrease. juice as possible. Cut and discard the stems and thinly
Thinly slice the radish and cut it into 4cm long oblong slice the caps then return to the saucepan.
strips. Cut the deep-fried tofu in half lengthwise and cut
the pieces into 5mm wide oblong strips. Both shimeji and enoki mushrooms come jointed at the
base. Cut and discard the bases and separate.
Put the radish, deep-fried tofu and dashi in a saucepan
and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat, Place the saucepan with the shiitake mushrooms over
skimming off any scum that floats to the surface. Reduce a gentle heat and slowly bring to the boil. Add the
the heat to low and simmer for a further 5-6 minutes. shimeji and enoki mushrooms and increase heat to
medium to bring the soup to the boil. Add the spinach
Put the miso in a small bowl and add a ladleful of dashi leaves.
to soften. Pour the mixture into the soup and heat to
just before boiling, then turn off the heat immediately. The soup must be served hot, so warm 4 soup bowls
Serve in pre-warmed soup bowls garnished with with hot (not boiling) water.
chopped spring onions and sprinkled with chilli powder, Put the miso in a small bowl and add a ladleful of soup
if using. Serve immediately. and mix to soften. Pour the mixture into the soup and
ALTERNATIVE FLAVOURINGS let the soup return to the boil for a second, then turn off
Deep-fried tofu and spring cabbage the heat immediately.
Deep-fried tofu and Chinese cabbage Divide between the warmed soup bowls, garnish with
Deep-fried tofu and cherry tomatoes with basil the sesame seeds and serve immediately.

40 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

CLAM AND SAMPHIRE MISO SOUP ASARI NO MISO-SHIRU

This recipe is more suited to adventurous cooks who SERVES 4

go foraging on wild beaches. For me, it brings back 400g live clams
fond childhood memories of shellfish gathering which 80g samphire, trimmed
was a fun and highly rewarding activity in spring just 40g white miso
as the sea was beginning to warm up. Nowadays, 1 tablespoon red miso
gladly or regrettably, depending on your point of
view, it is possible to buy both clams and samphire Wash and clean the clams by gently rubbing the shells
from fishmongers without venturing on to a beach. together. Put the clams in a saucepan with 800m! water
and bring to the boil over a gentle heat while constantly
skimming away any scum that floats to the surface.
When the shells begin to open, add the samphire, turn
up the heat to let the soup return to the boil and cook
for 1-2 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.

The soup must be served hot, so warm 4 soup bowls

with hot (not boiling) water.

Put the white and red miso paste into a small bowl and
add a ladleful of the soup liquid to soften, stir well. Pour
the mixture into the soup and bring back to the boil for
a second. Turn off the heat and serve immediately in
warmed bowls.

COOK’S TIP
Shopping and careful selection of ingredients is an
important part of good cooking. Choose clams with
perfect shells. You can tell whether a clam is alive or
not by tapping two together - if it sounds metallic, the
clams are most likely still fresh and they will open up
when heated. But if the sound is dull, they are dead and
should be discarded before cooking. Before cooking,
cover the clams with lightly salted water for a few hours
in a cool dark place — this will help them spit out any
sand or dirt.

Ceee ee

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 4!

HOKKAIDO SALMON _ RED MISO SOUP
MISO SOUP HOKKAIDO OF SEA BREAM
SAKE MISO-SHIRU TAI NO AKA-DASHI

Hokkaido is renowned for salmon fishing and this soup, Aka-miso or aka-dashi, dark red miso is generally
served at the annual fishing festival, is its regional reserved for soups. Red miso soup is considered
specialty. Traditional recipes use sake-kasu, the lees rather sophisticated and is served in expensive
that is filtered out when sake is brewed. It is also used restaurants.
for making soup, drinks and pickles. As it is difficult to
find outside Japan, | have used mirin instead.
SERVES 4
200g boneless sea bream fillet
SERVES 4 1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
400g skinless and boneless salmon fillets, cut into 800ml Dashi (see page 29)
bite-size chunks 4 asparagus spears, cut into 3-4cm pieces on the
1 tablespoon salt diagonal
2 average-size waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 40g red miso
chunks pinch of cress, to garnish
100g Savoy cabbage sansho, Japanese pepper, to serve
1 carrot, peeled and cut into chunks salt
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 leek, thickly sliced on the diagonal Cut the sea bream into large bite-size pieces, sprinkle
800m! Dashi (see page 29) with salt and set aside on a plate lined with kitchen
40g medium-coloured miso paper for 10-15 minutes.
4 tablespoons mirin
Put the kelp in a saucepan with the dashi and slowly
bring to just below the boil over a low heat. When small
Sprinkle the salmon with 1 tablespoon of salt and set bubbles begin to appear, add the asparagus. Place the
aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper. fish in a small sieve and blanch for 3-4 minutes or until
Soak the potato pieces in a bowl of cold water for the fish is just cooked. Remove the fish and asparagus
about 10 minutes to get rid of the starch and drain. Cut and keep warm. Let the dashi return to a gentle simmer,
the hard core out of the cabbage leaves, discard and then remove the kelp and discard.
cut the leaves into large bite-size squares. The soup must be served hot, so warm your soup bowls
Put all the vegetables in a saucepan with the dashi and with hot (not boiling) water. |
bring to the boil over a medium heat, skimming off any Put the miso in a small bowl with a ladleful of dashi
scum that floats to the surface. When the soup begins and mix well to soften, then pour into the soup. Let
to bubble, add the salmon, reduce the heat and simmer
the soup reach just below the boil and turn off the heat
for 20 minutes, continuing to skim off any scum. immediately.
Put the miso and mirin in a small bowl and mix well,
Arrange the fish, skin side up, and the asparagus in the
add a ladleful of the soup liquid to soften, then pour
warmed soup bowls and carefully ladle in the soup.
into the soup. Let the soup return to just below the boil
Garnish with the cress in the centre of each bowl,
then turn off the heat immediately. sprinkle the sansho pepper over and serve.
Divide between warmed soup bowls and serve.

42 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SASHIMI

Sashimi is raw fish and shellfish eaten at the beginning sense of seasons and with the diminished pleasure
of a meal and served in various cuts and styles with of anticipation. There is simple but unmeasurable
decorative edible condiments as well as dipping sauces pleasure in being in tune with the nature, eating what
(usually soy) and wasabi (although grated fresh ginger, each season brings.
garlic or mustard can also be used). One of the most
CHOOSING FISH Freshness is paramount. Ask your
famous dishes of Japanese cuisine, it is also called
fishmonger what is in season and the catch of the day
otsukuri, literally ‘to make’, and is an opportunity
that is freshest to eat raw. Choose fish with bright,
for a chef to wield his knife and demonstrate his
clear eyes and bright red gills. Fresh fish should have
presentation skills.
a pleasant smell of the sea but not be ‘fishy’. Its belly
The origin of sashimi is believed to stem from the should be firm and resilient to the touch and should
oldest Japanese dish called ‘namasu’, a vinegared dish spring back. Its scales should be firm and glistening.
of raw meat, fish or vegetables. The cardinal principle Almost all fresh fish and shellfish are suitable for
of Japanese cuisine is that any seafood that is fresh sashimi, except cod, because decomposition begins as
enough should be eaten raw. This is because we soon as it is fished out of water. Hence why cod sashimi
believe the cook’s job is to choose the best seasonal is only available on board fishing boats or restaurants
ingredients and to draw out and present the very on quaysides.
essence of their natural flavour rather than to impose
FILLETING If your fish filleting skills are not up to very
man-made flavours. In Japanese, the word ‘sashimi’
high standards ask the fishmonger to fillet the fish and
implies cutting or slicing flesh. For example, raw
remove the skin, bone and darker flesh from around
oysters are not sashimi while slices of scallop are.
the spine. If you are not going to slice it into sashimi
Preparing sashimi is a job best done by professionals, pieces straight away, keep the fillet refrigerated
and in Japan, sashimi for home eating is normally and wrapped in a clean (damp but not wet) cloth —
bought ready-prepared by fishmongers. Therefore, | wrapping it will prevent the fish from absorbing the
have not given a description of how to prepare sashimi smells of other foods in the fridge as well as stopping it
at home but instead list a few helpful tips, plus three from drying out.
achievable slicing methods — for cubes, rectangular
TO PREPARE Run your fingers along the fillet to feel if
slices and paper-thin slices — using a Western-style
there are any bones embedded. Trim the thin sides
kitchen knife (just make sure it is razor sharp).
to make the fillet rectangular in shape and an even
Everything related to the preparation of sashimi is thickness.
done with elaborate care, but the first and the foremost
CUBE CUTTING, KAKU-ZUKURI This style of cutting is
important task is to source the freshest fish. So, start
suitable for fish such as tuna, salmon and bonito with
with finding and getting to know good fishmongers
thick but tender-fleshed fillets. It is particularly suited
in your local area. To be a good home cook, she/he
to tuna as this is sold in steak form rather than in fillet.
first must become a good shopper — to know what
Choose 2cm thick steaks and cut them into 2cm wide
to buy, when and where from. And this is particularly
strips, but do not separate the strips. Rotate the strips
important when one is dealing with Japanese cuisine
90 degrees and cut straight down at 2cm intervals to
where freshness and seasonality of each ingredient is
form cubes.
paramount. It is possible to buy almost any food nearly
all year around nowadays but at the cost of a blurred

44. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TUNA CUBES WITH WASABI AVOCADO DRESSING

Cube-cut is most probably the easiest sashimi cut of SERVES 4

all, especially in the West where tuna is often sold in 1 very ripe avocado
a steak form. 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon wasabi powder mixed with 1 tablespoon
water to form a paste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 x 200g tuna steaks cut into 2cm cubes (see page 44)

Cut the avocado in half and remove the stone. Peel

the skin and roughly chop the flesh. Use a fork to mash
the avocado into a smooth paste in a large bowl. Add
the rice vinegar, wasabi paste and soy sauce and mix
well. Add the tuna cubes and combine, making sure
to coat each cube with the avocado mixture. Serve
immediately.
YELLOW TAIL SASHIMI
HAMACHI NO HIRA-ZUKURI

Hirazukuri is a sashimi cut consisting of rectangular With a mandoline, finely shred the radish and then soak
(about 1cm thick) slices. It is the most popular cutting the shreds in iced water for 20-30 minutes.
technique and can be used for almost any type of fish.
Place the fish fillet lengthwise on a chopping board,
former skin side up, then cut into 1cm thick slices along
the grain (you should have about 20 slices). See also
SERVES 4
below.
5-7cm piece of daikon, giant white radish, peeled
250g boneless and skinless yellowtail fillet Drain the radish and divide into 4 portions. Pile each
4 shiso, perilla leaves portion on individual serving dishes or plates into
4 teaspoons wasabi paste a small mound. Place the shiso against each radish
tamari soy sauce, for dipping mound and rest 5 fish slices, like domino pieces, with a
small dab of wasabi on the bottom corner. Serve with a
small dish of soy sauce on the side.

RECTANGULAR SLICES, HIRA-ZUKURI|

Place the fillet, former skin side up, lengthwise, 3cm sweeping draw motion starting from the base to the
away from the bottom edge of the chopping board, tip, cutting through the fillet gently but without too
thicker side away from you. Place your left hand on the much force.
fillet without applying too much pressure, just enough
Start cutting at the right of the fillet. A 1cm slice is
to hold it in place. Hold the knife so that the tip of
standard thickness. Firm-fleshed fish such as sea
blade is slightly inclined to the left. Use the knife in a
bream or sea bass may be cut into 5mm slices and
soft-fleshed fish into 1.5cm slices.

Wipe the knife clean occasionally with a clean, moist

towel. Because the way the knife is held, each slice will
come to rest on the blade near the tip. Slide the knife,
with the slice still attached, several centimetres away to
the right, and then lay the slice on its right side. Keep
repeating this process until the fillet is finished and you
should have a neat row of ‘domino’ slices on the right.

46 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PAPER-THIN SASHIMI OF PLAICE
HIRAME NO USU-ZUKURI

Usu-zukuri, paper-thin slices, is most suitable for firm, Wrap the fish in cling film and place it in the freezer
white-fleshed fish such as sea bream, sea bass or while you prepare momiji-oroshi. You don't want the
flounder. Think of this as the Japanese equivalent of fish to freeze solid but it needs to be firm enough to
Italy's carpaccio or Peruvian ceviche. make slicing it easier. At the same time chill 4 individual
serving plates in the fridge.

Meanwhile, make 2 holes in the radish with a chopstick

SERVES 4 then plug the deseeded chilies into them, using the
250g boneless and skinless plaice fillet chopstick to push the chilies in. Grate the radish — the
100g daikon, giant white radish, peeled result will be rather watery so lightly drain by either
2 dried red chillies, deseeded squeezing in your hand or wring in a piece of clean
a few sprigs of chives, finely chopped cheesecloth.
100m! ponzu, Citrus Soy Vinegar (see page 51)
Take the fish out of the freezer and unwrap. At the same
time, take the serving plates out of the refrigerator.

Thinly slice the fish and immediately transfer each slice

onto a plate (allow 5-7 slices each).

Scatter the chopped chives on the top of the fish slices

and make a small mound of grated chilli radish in the
centre. Serve with a dish of ponzu on the side.

PAPER-THIN SLICES, USU-ZUKURI

Wrap the fish in cling film and place in the freezer for slice resting at the tip of the knife. Carefully transfer
about 10-15 minutes. You want the flesh to be firm each slice immediately to a plate, overlapping the
enough to make thin slicing easier but not for it to slices slightly to make a rosette. Add garnishes such
becomes frozen solid. as a curl of carrot, scattering of finely chopped spring
onion, or finely grated lemon zest. Serve immediately
Put a fillet on a chopping board, former skin side up
with ponzu sauce (see page 51) or a mixture of soy
and thicker flesh side facing away from you. Place your
sauce and lemon juice. This type of sashimi is typically
left hand on the left end of the fillet without applying
served with momiji-oroshi, red chilli infused grated
too much pressure, just enough to hold it in place.
giant white radish.
Hold the knife so that the tip is tilted to the right and
the blade is almost horizontal. Start at the left side
of the fillet, positioning the base of the knife about
5mm right of where your fingers are placed. Draw
the blade from one o'clock to seven o'clock in one
smooth controlled movement. You should have a thin

48 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SALAD TWO BASIC AEMONO
DRESSINGS
There is no direct equivalent of salads in the
traditional Japanese repertory but sunomono, literally
WHITE SESAME DRESSING
‘vinegared things’, and aemono, ‘dressed things’,
can be loosely described as salads. Both sunomono SHIRO-GOMA AEGOROMO
and aemono are normally served in small portions This tastes like delicately roasted peanuts. Do not be
in dainty bowls or elegant dishes on the side to tempted to add too much sugar - it’s used to give
complement the main dish in taste, colour and a rounded taste rather than to sweeten. Seemingly
texture. However, they never feature as a main dish on quite dry and coarse, once mixed it will be just right.
the traditional Japanese table. Basic vinegar mixtures
and aemono-dressings are easy to make and highly
MAKES ABOUT 4 TABLESPOONS
adaptable for making into Western-style salads and to
4 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds
serve as one-course healthy meals.
1 teaspoon sugar
Although both sunomono and aemon play a 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
supporting role, the scope for creativity in Japanese-
style salads is literally endless. Sunomono embrace Put the toasted sesame seeds and sugar in a Japanese
a wide range of ingredients — almost all vegetables, mortar, or a pestle and mortar, and grind to a coarse
raw or parboiled, and many fish and shellfish, raw, paste — leave some seeds still visible. Add the soy sauce
grilled, steamed, or even fried and then cooled. and mix well.
The ingredients are tossed with, or sprinkled with,
It's best to prepare as needed, although it will keep
a thin vinegar mixture or citrus dressing. Aemono,
for up to a month refrigerated in a zip-lock bag with as
dressed things, also uses all sorts of raw or cooked
much air pressed out as possible.
then cooled vegetables,
fish and shellfish or
poultry. Although in Japanese cookery books the
two categories are usually listed together because
TOFU DRESSING SHIRO AEGOROMO
strictly vinegar mixtures are a kind of a dressing
and therefore, the two are alike, but for an easier A delicate, smooth dressing. Firm cotton tofu gives a
distinction and for identification purposes, one might slightly more pronounced taste and flavour than soft
say that aemono dressings are generally thicker silken tofu. The key to success is to make sure the tofu
than vinegar-based sunomono dressings. In general, is well drained (see page 156).
aemono dressings are based on puréed tofu, toasted
then ground sesame seeds, or miso. MAKES ABOUT |30G
100g tofu
Two important points for the success of Japanese-
2 tablespoons white sesame paste or tahini
style salads — never use warm ingredients, everything
1 tablespoon sugar
must be cooled to room temperature or even —
1 teaspoon salt
chilled, especially in the summer. And secondly, all
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
ingredients must be thoroughly dried before being
mixed with dressings otherwise the final result will
Roughly break up the tofu then wrap it in a cloth and
be watery.
tightly squeeze to drain. Put the tofu and sesame
paste, sugar and salt in suribachi, a Japanese mortar,
and blend well. Add the soy sauce and stir well until
it becomes a thick and smooth mixture. This dressing
should be prepared just before it is needed.

50 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

FOUR BASIC
SUNOMONO VINEGARS

TWO-FLAVOUR VINEGAR NIHAI-ZU SWEET VINEGAR AMA-ZU

A vinegar to use with fish and seafood. This is sweet and mild and can be used to dress
vegetables such as cabbage (see page 60). The amount
of sugar may be varied according to personal taste.
MAKES 250ML
100ml rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce MAKES 300ML

150ml water 100ml mirin

2-3 tablespoons sugar
Mix the ingredients together and transfer to a glass 100ml rice vinegar
jar. Keeps almost indefinitely refrigerated in a lidded 100ml soy sauce
glass jar.
Put the mirin and sugar in a small saucepan and bring
to the boil over a medium heat. Simmer for 1-2 minutes
to burn off the alcohol and dissolve the sugar. Remove
from the heat and let it cool down before adding
the vinegar and soy sauce. Keeps almost indefinitely
refrigerated in a lidded glass jar.

THREE-FLAVOUR VINEGAR SANBAI-ZU CITRUS SOY VINEGAR PONZU

This is arguably the most versatile vinegar mix that can This is another highly versatile vinegar mix.
be used for almost any food.
MAKES 320ML
MAKES 250ML 120ml lemon, lime, tangerine or yuzu juice or a
100ml mirin mixture
100ml rice vinegar 120ml soy sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce 80ml rice vinegar
100ml water 10g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes
5cm square piece of dried kelp
Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the
boil over a medium heat. Simmer for 1-2 minutes. Put all the ingredients in a large glass bowl and let
Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. stand for 24 hours to infuse. Strain through muslin
Keeps almost indefinitely refrigerated in a glass jar with and transfer to a glass jar. Although this keeps almost
a lid. indefinitely refrigerated, it is best to use within 2-3
months.

Cnee aEEIEEEEIENIINEIIIIEIIEEEEEEEEREEEERR

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 51

TWO FLAVOURED FIVE COLOURS
VINEGAR VARIATIONS IN VINEGAR
GOSHIKI NAMASU

SESAME VINEGAR GOMA-SU

Namasu is one of the oldest dishes in Japanese
This is thicker and more highly aromatic than other
cooking. Raw meat, fish or fruits and vegetables are
vinegars — the nutty flavour of sesame seeds comes
cut into thin strips and mixed with vinegar-based
alive when they are toasted and grounded.
dressings. Dried persimmons are a winter delicacy in
Japan but you can use almost any dried fruit instead,
such as apricots, figs or prunes.
MAKES 200ML
100g toasted white sesame seeds
1 tablespoon sugar
SERVES 4
100ml Two-flavour Vinegar or Three-flavour Vinegar
(see page 51)
2 dried persimmons or dried apricots, figs or prunes
100g daikon, giant white radish, peeled
Put the toasted sesame seeds and sugar in a suribachi, 1 medium-size carrot, peeled
a Japanese mortar, or a normal Western style motar and 100g fine green beans, trimmed
grind well until it becomes a smooth paste, and oil from 4 shiitake mushrooms
100ml Three-flavour Vinegar (see page 51)
the seeds begins to seep out. Stir in the vinegar and
mix well. This is best prepared as needed because the salt
characteristic sesame aroma is lost quickly.
Cut the dried persimmons into julienne strips. Cut the
radish and carrot into julienne strips about 4cm long.

WASABI VINEGAR = VWASABI-ZU Put the beans on a chopping board and sprinkle over
some salt. Using flattened hands, roll the beans around
A highly refreshing vinegar mix for wasabi fans. few times — this will help to tenderise them as well as
retain the fresh green colour when cooked.
MAKES IOOML Parboil each vegetable separately in lightly salted water
2 teaspoons wasabi powder — green beans for 3 minutes, radish and carrot for 2
2 teaspoons mirin minutes. Then rinse in cold water, drain thoroughly and
100ml Two-flavour Vinegar or Three-flavour Vinegar pat dry with kitchen paper. Set aside.
(see page 51)
Preheat the grill to high. Cut and discard the stalks of
Mix the wasabi powder with mirin then add the vinegar. the shiitake and grill the caps for 1 minute each side.
As wasabi quickly loses its aroma, prepare this just Slice thinly and set aside.
before it is needed. Put the dried fruit and vegetables together in a mixing
bowl then pour the vinegar over and toss.

To serve, divide the mixture into 4 equal portions and

lightly squeeze each portion before arranging neatly
into mounds in small individual serving dishes.

52 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

MUSHROOM IN SESAME VINEGARED CUCUMBER
MISO DRESSING KYURI NO SUNOMONO
KINOKO NO GOMA MISO AE
Here is a quick and easy and above all, very healthy
dish — it can be served as a vegetarian starter or as a
| am delighted that some exotic oriental mushrooms
side for meaty dishes.
have become easier to find in supermarket recently.

SERVES 4
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons dried wakame seaweed
4-6 shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded
4 Lebanese cucumbers or standard cucumbers
50g shimeji mushrooms
thumb-size piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly
50g enoki mushrooms
sliced
150ml soy sauce
1-2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds plus 2
120ml Three-flavour Vinegar (see page 51)
teaspoons, to garnish
2 teaspoons toasted white sesame seeds, for garnish
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons white or light-coloured miso
Put 4 individual serving dishes in the refrigerator to
chill.
Cut the caps of the shiitake mushrooms into thin slices.
Both shimeji and enoki mushrooms come jointed at the Soften the seaweed by covering with plenty of water in
base, cut off and discard the bases and separate the a bowl for 10 minutes. Drain.
stems by hand.
Thinly slice the cucumbers (if using standard cucumber,
In a saucepan, bring 500m! of water to the boil, add peel and slice lengthways and scoop out the central
120ml of the soy sauce and all the mushrooms, then seeds). Put the cucumber slices and the ginger in a
parboil for 1 minute. Drain thoroughly and leave to medium-size non-metallic mixing bowl, sprinkle with
stand in a sieve to continue draining. salt then squeeze with your hands for about 1 minute.
A fair amount of water will come out, the aim is to
Put the 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds and
squeeze and drain off as much liquid as possible.
the sugar in suribachi, a Japanese mortar, and grind
until most of the seeds are crushed. Add the miso Add the wakame and 1 tablespoon of the vinegar to
and the remaining soy sauce and mix. You may need the cucumber then lightly mix. Squeeze and drain away
to add more soy sauce to soften the mixture to a any excess liquid. Add 4 tablespoons of the vinegar,
double cream consistency. mix and drain again. Finally, pour in the remaining
vinegar and mix lightly. The reason for staging the
Press down on the mushrooms with your hand to drain
vinegar addition is to avoid the finished dish becoming
any excess liquid, then add to the dressing and mix.
watery.
Divide the mushroom mixture into 4 equal portions
Divide into 4 equal portions, gently squeeze and drain
to serve in neat mounds in individual serving dishes,
any excess liquid before arranging in small mounds in
sprinkle with the remaining toasted white sesame seeds
the chilled dishes. Sprinkle over the sesame seeds
and serve.
and serve.

54 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

VINEGARED CRAB
KANISU

This is another classic sunomono favourite with a Put 4 individual serving dishes in the refrigerator to
touch of elegance. Although crabs are available all chill.
year round, they are the best in winter.
Pick over the crabmeat, discard the cartilage and
finely shred into a bowl. Sprinkle over the rice vinegar,
lightly mix then set aside. (Applying vinegar or other
SERVES 4 seasonings such as salt or soy sauce beforehand gives
200g freshly boiled or steamed white crabmeat crabmeat a subtle undertone what the Japanese call
2 teaspoons salt, plus 2 tablespoons extra shita-aji, literally ‘under taste’.)
3 teaspoons rice vinegar
2 Lebanese cucumbers Place the cucumbers on a chopping board, sprinkle
120ml Three-flavour Vinegar (see page 51) over 2 teaspoons of salt and using the palm of your
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger juice hands, roll them around for a few times — this tenderises
the cucumbers as well as freshens the colour. In a
large bowl combine 2 tablespoons of salt with 1 litre of
cold water. Thinly slice the cucumbers and soak in the
salted water for 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry with
kitchen paper.

Mix the vinegar with the ginger juice in a small bowl.

Put the crabmeat and cucumber slices in a separate
bowl, spoon on the ginger mixture and stir thoroughly.
Divide the crabmeat mixture between the chilled
dishes, lightly squeeze each portion of cucumber
before placing in the dishes to ensure there is no
excess moisture. Serve immediately.

COOK’S TIP
This dish or any other sunomon should not be prepared
ahead and left to stand because it will become watery.

VARIATION
Try using thinly sliced cooked octopus, or flaked,
cooked, white-fleshed fish such as sea bass or plaice
instead of the crab.

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 55

GREEN BEANS AND CARROT IN WHITE SESAME DRESSING
INGEN TO NINJIN NO SHIRO-GOMA AE

Sesame dressing is a quick and easy way to transform Trim the beans and cut into half lengths. Thinly
otherwise rather ordinary vegetables. slice the carrot into 3cm-long julienne strips. Parboil
the vegetables separately in lightly salted water for
2 minutes each, then rinse in cold water and drain
thoroughly. Pat them dry with kitchen paper.
SERVES 4
100g fine green beans Put the vegetables in a bowl, then add the soy sauce.
1 medium-size carrot, peeled Use your hands to mix and lightly squeeze them — this
2 tablespoons light soy sauce adds a subtle soy flavour to the vegetables.
4 tablespoons White Sesame Dressing (see page 50)
Transfer the vegetable mix to another bowl, add the
salt
white sesame dressing and toss. Divide the mixture
into 4 equal portions and serve in neat mounds in small
individual dishes.

HIJIKI IN TOFU DRESSING HIJIKI NO SHIRO AE

This is a quick and easy recipe that is light in texture Parboil the carrot strips in salted water for 1 minute and
and full of high-quality protein from tofu and rich in drain. Set aside.
calcium, iron and magnesium from hijiki.
Put the deep-fried tofu in a sieve and pour boiling water
on both sides to remove excess oil, and pat dry with
kitchen paper. Slice in half lengthways and cut into thin
SERVES4 strips.
8 tablespoons dried hijiki
Put the sesame seeds and sugar in suribachi, a Japanese
1 medium-sized carrot, peeled and julienned
mortar, and grind until about half of the seeds are still
1 aburaage, deep-fried tofu
visible. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds
and the tofu dressing and mix well. Add the drained
1 tablespoon sugar
hijiki, carrot and deep-fried tofu strips and use a rubber
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
spatula to lightly mix.
4 tablespoons Tofu Dressing (see page 50)
salt Divide between 4 individual dishes and serve.

SERVING SUGGESTION
Put the hijiki in a bowl, pour over enough water to
To add a contemporary touch, | often serve this
cover and stand for 10-15 minutes. Pour through a
classic dish in little gem lettuce leaves or scooped-out
sieve and press down on the hijiki with a rubber spatula,
tomatoes. Cucumber cups or celery sticks also make
then stand to drain further while you prepare the other
attractive edible serving vessels.
ingredients.

56 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

FINE BEAN IN BLACK TOFU AND
SESAME DRESSING WATERCRESS
INGEN NO KURO-GOMA AE SALAD WITH HOT OIL

Compared to white sesame seeds, black ones have | first learnt this technique of pouring hot sesame
a stronger flavour and therefore, dark or normal soy oil over salad ingredients from a Chinese friend. It
sauce can be used. is surprisingly light and not at all oily. The key to
success is to ensure the oil is almost smoking hot.

SERVES 4
100g fine green beans SERVES 4

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce 400g soft silken tofu

1 red onion
FOR THE BLACK SESAME DRESSING
1 bunch watercress (weighing about 125-150g)
4 tablespoons toasted black sesame seeds
100g spinach leaves
1 teaspoon sugar
2 celery sticks
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
40g fresh ginger, peeled
4 tablespoons ponzu, Citrus Soy Vinegar (see page 51)
Cut the beans into 3-4cm length pieces. Blanch them 2 tablespoons soy sauce
in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 2-3 minutes. 2 tablespoons sesame oil
Rinse in cold water, drain and pat dry with kitchen
paper.
Cut the tofu into 3-4cm cubes and leave to drain for
Put the beans in a bowl, then add the soy sauce and, 10-15 minutes on a plate lined with kitchen paper.
with your hands, mix and lightly squeeze.
Thinly slice the red onion then soak in a bowl of cold
To make the dressing, put the toasted sesame seeds water for 10-12 minutes. Drain.
and sugar in a Japanese mortar, suribachi, and grind
Trim the watercress into manageable lengths and put
to form a coarse paste — do not over grind them, leave
on a large serving plate with the spinach. Thinly slice
some seeds still visible. Add the soy sauce and mix well.
the celery on the diagonal and add to the watercress
Transfer the beans to a separate bowl, then add the bed. Thinly slice or julienne the ginger, then scatter it
black sesame dressing and mix well to coat each bean. over the watercress bed. Add the drained tofu cubes
Divide into 4 equal portions and serve in piles in small and onion slices on top.
individual dishes.
Mix the Citrus Soy Vinegar and soy sauce then pour
over the salad mix. ~
Heat the sesame oil in a small pan over a medium heat
until almost smoking hot, then drizzle over the salad — it
will make a dramatic sizzling sound. Quickly toss and
serve immediately.

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 59

VINEGAR SQUEEZED SPRING CABBAGE
KYABETSU NO SUMOMIAE

This dish combines two traditional techniques — Cut the cabbage into 2-3cm squares and discard the
momi, squeezing and su-ae, vinegar-dressed. thick cores. Cut the carrot and ginger into 3cm long
matchsticks.

Put the cabbage, carrot and ginger in a large ziplock

SERVES 4 plastic bag and sprinkle over the salt, then seal and with
500g spring cabbage your hands squeeze the bag for 2-3 minutes as if you
1 carrot, peeled are massaging it. A great deal of liquid will come out as
30g fresh ginger, peeled cabbage begins to wilt. Drain the liquid.
2 teaspoons salt
Add 4 tablespoons of sweet vinegar, reseal, then
6 tablespoons amazu, Sweet Vinegar (see page 51)
squeeze again for another 2-3 minutes. Drain as much
liquid as possible.

Divide the cabbage mix between 4 individual serving

bowls and drizzle % tablespoon of sweet vinegar over
each. and serve.

TOFU AVOCADO AND CRABMEAT SALAD

WITH WASABI DRESSING

Both tofu and avocado lend themselves very well Cut the tofu into 1cm thick 3-4cm square pieces and
to wasabi. set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper for 10-15
minutes to drain.

Thinly slice the red onion and soak in a bowl of cold

SERVES 4 water for 10-12 minutes. Drain.
400g soft silken tofu
1 red onion Halve the avocados, peel and remove the stone, then

2 ripe avocados cut the flesh into 8mm thick slices. Drizzle over the

2 tablespoons lemon juice lemon juice to prevent the avocados from colouring.
100g white crabmeat Put the wasabi vinegar and the oil for the dressing in
2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley a lidded jam jar and shake vigorously to mix.
FOR THE WASABI DRESSING
On a large serving platter, arrange the tofu pieces like
4 tablespoons Wasabi Vinegar (see page 52) fallen dominos. Put the avocado and onion on top and
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
scatter over the crabmeat. Pour the wasabi dressing
over and garnish with the parsley to serve.

60 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

FOUR SEASONAL SALADS

WARM SPRING VEGETABLE SALAD

Here is a one-course salad using seasonal vegetables. Cut the potatoes into 8mm thick slices and soak in
| suggest you serve it in a big salad bowl and let your a bowl of water for 10 minutes. This will wash off the
guests help themselves. starch and stop discolouration while you prepare the
other vegetables.

Cut the carrots into 8mm thick slices on the diagonal.

SERVES 4 Cut the cabbage into large bite-size chunks.
4 waxy potatoes such as Charlotte, Maris Peer or
Drain the potatoes and put them at the bottom of a
Jersey Royals, scrubbed
large steaming basket with all the other vegetables on
2 carrots, peeled
top. Sprinkle over some salt, then steam over a medium
400g pointed spring cabbage
heat for 6-8 minutes, or until they are cooked through.
4 baby leeks, trimmed
Turn off the heat and transfer to a large platter.
100g purple sprouting broccoli
salt While the vegetables are being steamed, prepare the
dressing. Put the sesame seeds in a suribachi, Japanese
FOR THE SESAME MISO DRESSING
mortar and grind until most of the seeds are crushed.
4 tablespoons white toasted sesame seeds
Add the remaining dressing ingredients except the
4 tablespoons medium-coloured miso such as sendai
vinegar and grind to mix. Gradually add the vinegar
or shinsht miso paste
while continuing to mix — you may need to add more
2 tablespoons sugar
or less — until the mixture becomes single cream in
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
consistency.
6 tablespoons rice vinegar
Drizzle the sesame miso dressing over the warm
vegetables and serve straight away.

62 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PLES OLE AT IT
GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES
WITH SPICY SOY DRESSING

This salad is a perfect accompaniment for a barbecue Preheat the grill to high or heat a large iron griddle.
on a hot summer days.
Remove the aubergine stem and discard. Cut the
aubergine into 1cm thick slices, soak in a bowl of water
for 10 minutes to get rid of any bitterness, then drain.
SERVES 4 Place the okras on a chopping board, sprinkle some
1 aubergine salt over them, then use the palms of your hands to
12 okras roll them around — this removes the fluffy hair. Cut the
2 green courgettes courgettes into roughly 8mm thick slices on an angle.
2 yellow courgettes Quarter the red and yellow peppers, deseed and
2 red peppers remove the white pith.
2 yellow peppers
Put all the vegetables in a large mixing bowl, drizzle
3-4 tablespoons vegetable oil
the vegetable oil over and toss to coat each piece. Lay
salt
the vegetables in a roasting tin and place under the
EORWRESPICY, SOY DRESSING grill for 4-5 minutes on one side, then turn them over
2 tablespoons rice vinegar to grill for further 4-5 minutes. If using a griddle, cook
3 tablespoons light soy sauce in small batches, pressing down on each piece to make
2 teaspoons sugar scorching marks on both sides.
1 teaspoon grated garlic
Ya teaspoon chilli powder Meanwhile, put all the ingredients for the dressing in a
glass jar with a lid and shake vigorously to mix.

Wipe the mixing bowl clean and add the grilled

vegetables. Pour the dressing over and toss to coat the
vegetables. Transfer to a large serving platter and serve
at room temperature.

64 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PAN-SEARED AUTUMN VEGETABLES
WITH MISO MAYONNAISE

Here, a combination of miso paste and Western Cut the chicken into 3-4cm squares. Peel the pumpkin,
mayonnaise works surprisingly well. remove the seeds and fibrous centre, then cut
into slices about 5cm long and 8mm thick. Cut the
cauliflower and broccoli into bite-size chunks. Cut and
discard the stems of the shiitake mushrooms and halve
SERVES 4
the caps.
400g skinless chicken thigh fillet
400g pumpkin Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat until
200g cauliflower almost smoking hot. Add the chicken pieces and brown
200g broccoli on one side for 4-5 minutes and turn to cook on the
8 shiitake mushrooms other side for a further 3-4 minutes. Remove from the
2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil pan and place on a layer of kitchen paper to soak up
any excess oil. Set aside to cool to room temperature
FOR THE MISO MAYONNAISE
while you cook the vegetables.
4 tablespoons medium-coloured miso such as sendai
or shinsht miso paste Put the pumpkin slices into the pan to fry for 2-3
2 tablespoons rice vinegar minutes on one side, then turn over to cook the other
4 tablespoons ready-made mayonnaise side for further 1-2 minutes. Transfer onto a plate and
let it cool to room temperature. Cook the rest of the
vegetables in the same way in batches (you may need
to add more oil), transferring onto another plate to
cool.

In a large mixing bowl, stir the miso and vinegar

together, then add the mayonnaise and mix well with a
small whisk.

Put the chicken and all the vegetables into the bowl
with the miso mayonnaise and combine well. Transfer to
a large serving dish to serve.

Ie

SOUPS, SASHIMI AND SALADS 67

WARM WINTER VEGETABLES AND
SALMON SALAD WITH YUZU DRESSING

Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit which looks like a Sprinkle a pinch of salt and drizzle the sake over the
tangerine in shape and has a lemon yellow skin. It is salmon, then leave to stand while you prepare the
not eaten like a fresh fruit but instead the refreshing vegetables.
juice and skin is widely used in Japanese cooking.
Peel and cut each turnip into 4 wedges then lay them
Outside the country, its juice is available in bottles and
on the bottom of a large steaming basket placed inside
the skin in dried form.
a large-lidded saucepan filled halfway with water. Thinly
You will need a large, deep saucepan and a large
cut the cabbage, then scatter on top of the turnips.
steaming basket for this recipe as all the vegetables
Thinly slice the leeks on an angle and spread evenly
and the salmon are steamed together.
on top of the cabbage layer. Place the salmon on
top of the leeks. Cut and discard the base of shimeji
mushrooms and with your hands, separate the clump
SERVES 4 into 2-3 stem chunks and put on top of the salmon.
400g skinless salmon fillet, cut into bite-size pieces
Put the lid on the pan, cover the lid with a tea-towel
2 tablespoons sake
and secure the ends with an elastic band. Place over a
4 small turnips
medium-high heat and bring to the boil to steam for
400g Savoy cabbage
10-12 minutes, or until all the vegetables and the fish
2 leeks
are cooked.
100g shimeji mushrooms
salt Warm a large serving dish.
FOR THE YUZU DRESSING While the vegetables and fish are steaming, put all the
1 tablespoon yuzu juice ingredients for the dressing in a glass jar with a lid and
2 tablespoons mirin shake vigorously to mix.
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
Transfer the vegetables and salmon to the warmed
dish, pour the dressing over then toss well. Serve warm.

68 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

NIHON NICOISE

This is a Japanese take on the famous Salad Nigoise. Season both sides of the tuna with salt and set aside for
10-15 minutes.

Cut the potatoes into 1cm thick slices. Bring a saucepan

SERVES 4 of water to the boil over a high heat, add the potatoes
4 x 100-120g tuna steaks and parboil for 6-8 minutes, or until] cooked through.
400g waxy baby new potatoes, scrubbed Drain, rinse under cold running water and drain again.
100g fine green beans, trimmed and halved
Place the halved beans on a chopping board, sprinkle
200g fresh or frozen edemame
with a pinch of salt and with the palm of your hand roll
12 baby cherry tomatoes, halved
them around — this helps the beans to keep their colour
12 pitted black olives
when cooked. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil,
2 spring onions, finely chopped
add the beans and cook for 1-2 minutes then add the
a handful of mitsuba or flat-leaf parsley, roughly torn
edamame and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Drain and
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
refresh in cold water, then drain again.
salt
Meanwhile, put all the ingredients for the dressing in a
FOR THE DRESSING
glass jar with a lid, then shake well to combine.
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons rice vinegar Put the potatoes, both beans, tomatoes, olives, spring
2 teaspoons wasabi powder or paste onions and mitsuba in a large mixing bowl or salad
1 teaspoon grated garlic bowl, add all but 2 tablespoons of the dressing and
120ml extra virgin olive oil toss lightly.
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy-based frying pan
over a medium-high heat. Pat the tuna dry with kitchen
paper and sear for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until
cooked to your liking — ideally the inside should be rare
and pink. Cut the tuna steaks into 5-8mm thick slices.

To serve, divide the salad between 4 plates, put the

tuna on top and drizzle over the reserved dressing.

70 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SEARED BEEF SALAD WITH
GRATED DAIKON DRESSING

This salad is a perfect way to ensure beef lovers get Start by thinly slicing the onion and soak in a bowl of
plenty of fresh vegetables. The richness of the beef is cold water for 10-15 minutes to refresh and tone down
counterbalanced perfectly with the refreshing daikon the strong onion smell.
dressing.
Cut the fennel into 4 quarters, remove and discard the
core and cut into thin slices. Trim the watercress into
manageable length pieces.
SERVES 4
1 white onion Drain the grated radish by putting it through a sieve
1 fennel bulb and reduce to about half the amount by pressing
100g watercress down with a spoon. Mix with the rest of the dressing
400g beef steak, rump, sirloin or fillet ingredients.
a few drops of sesame oil Heat a heavy-based frying pan or iron griddle over a
1 teaspoon salt high heat. Rub the beef with a few drops of the sesame
2 tablespoons rice vinegar oil and sprinkle over 1 teaspoon of salt just before
FOR THE DRESSING placing in the pan. Sear on one side for 2 minutes, turn
100g grated daikon, giant white radish over and cook the other side for 1 minute. Transfer onto
3 tablespoons soy sauce a chopping board, pour the vinegar over and press and
3 tablespoons mirin rub the vinegar in. Leave to rest for 5 minutes.
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
Drain the onion and mix with the fennel slices. Divide
and arrange the vegetables between 4 individual
serving plates. Cut the beef into 5mm thick slices and
divide into 4 portions. Arrange the meat slices neatly
over the vegetables, pour the dressing on top and
serve.

72 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 ge |
Y iF
ey,
iy
 BOWL FOOD
feo UES RICE
AND SUSHI
NOODLES MENRUI

Although more often eaten as lunch or an evening The history of soba precedes that of other wheat flour
snack than as part of a formal meal, more noodles are noodles. Buckwheat was originally introduced from
consumed daily than any other dish in Japan. They are China in the late pre-historic Jomon period and the
the original Japanese fast food, as they are quick and earliest written record shows that after a rice crop
easy to make, equally easy to eat fast and cheap. failure in 727, soba was grown to avert devastating
nationwide famines. Soba is a fast-growing hardy
The many varieties available can broadly be divided
annual plant that grows even on relatively poor soil. It
into three types. Soba, or buckwheat noodles, are
takes only 75 days from sowing to harvest. Originally,
generally associated with north-east Japan. Udon,
soba was eaten like porridge, then began to be
thick, wheat flour noodles, are more familiar in warmer
formed into noodle shape in the early 17th century and
south-western regions. Chika-soba, more popularly
became very popular among residents of Edo (the old
known as ramen, are wheat flour and egg-based
name of Tokyo). There were more soba stands than
Chinese-style noodles.
sushi stalls in the old capital.
SOBA are thin, brownish grey in colour and are the
Soba is rich in protein, the essential amino acid lysine,
oldest of all the noodles eaten in Japan. When eaten
which is lacking in most cereal grains, lipids, minerals
as a separate course, they are served in a hot broth,
such as iron, phosphorus and copper, vitamins B1 and
arranged on a bamboo lattice with a dipping sauce,
B2, and rutin (4-6 per cent), an essential nutrient that
or in a shallow bowl with toppings and a sauce to pour
strengthens capillaries and so helps people suffering
over. Cha-soba has an attractive green appearance
from arteriosclerosis and high blood pressure. Recent
and subtle tea flavour from the addition of green
research shows that 30mg of rutin per day meets the
tea powder. In Japan, soba are available fresh but
body's requirements, amply provided by an average
elsewhere you are more likely to find dried.
serving of soba, which contains about 100mg. Soba
UDON are thick, round or flat, wheat flour, white proteins also prevent body fat accumulation. Choline,
noodles. They are often served in hot broth, with a another important micro-nutrient found in soba, plays
dipping sauce or in hot-pot dishes. Outside of Japan a valuable role in metabolism, especially regulating
they are sold dried or semi-fresh in vacuum packs. blood pressure and liver function.

KISHIMEN are wide, thick and flat white flour noodles Soba also works as a social lubricant. The word soba
popular in and around Nagoya. Sold dried. is a homonym of the word meaning ‘near’. There
used to be an endearing old custom to go around
HIYAMUGI A fine white flour noodle used especially in
neighbours with a gift of soba noodles in hand to
cold dishes. Sold dried.
introduce oneself when he/she moved into a new
SOMEN are very fine white noodles, made from hard home — saying ‘| moved in near/soba you’.
durum wheat moistened with cottonseed or sesame
Traditionally, soba noodles in hot broth is the last thing
oil. Traditionally eaten cold but occasionally served
eaten when families gather to see in the New Year.
in hot, clear soups. Almost always sold dried in neat
New Year's Eve in Japan is similar to Christmas Eve in
bundles, they come in three colourful variations: cha-
the West and is one of the busiest days in the Japanese
somen (green from the addition of green tea powder),
calendar. Homes have to be cleaned and decorated,
tamago-somen (yellow with egg yolk) and ume-s6men
and special New Year food cooked as shops close for
(pink from the addition of plum and shiso, perilla, oil).
several days. Slurping up a bowl of soba late at night
RAMEN Chinese-style flour and egg noodle with a as the temple bell tolls on New Year's Eve is one of the
creamy yellow colour. Available either straight or curly. most evocative memories of my childhood.

76 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 ALL-PURPOSE
NOODLE SAUCE
Serving temperature is an important element for
almost all Japanese food and is particularly relevant for
There are many ready-made noodle sauces available.
noodles. In winter, noodles should be served piping
Although they’re a useful standby and many Japanese
hot to warm both body and soul, while in the humid
home cooks have them (including myself | confess)
Japanese summer, chilled noodles stimulate appetite
home-made is much better and more economical.
and encourage recovery from summer fatigue. Speed
This keeps for up to 4 weeks refrigerated and can be
is also of the essence. In Japan, it is considered rude to
used for simmered dishes and broths too.
linger over a bowl of noodles and one is expected to
eat it quickly once served. This involves noisy slurping,
as it is impossible to eat noodles quietly, so one just has MAKES 1.3 LITRES

to discard conventional Western dining etiquette. 2 postcard-size pieces of dried kelp

3-4 dried shiitake mushrooms
HOW TO COOK NOODLES 200ml mirin
Outside of Japan you are most likely to come across 100ml sake
noodles in the dried form, but the method of preparing 1¥%2 teaspoons sea salt
noodles whether fresh or dried, is the same - it just 30g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes
takes slightly longer with dried noodles and when 50ml light soy sauce
cooked they double in weight. To cook 100g (a typical
portion) of dried noodles bring about 2 litres water to
Put the kelp, shiitake and 1 litre of water in a large glass
a rolling boil in a large saucepan. The saucepan must
bowl and let it stand in a refrigerator overnight.
be big enough so that the noodles are not crowded
and for the boiling water to circulate — just like cooking Put the mirin and sake in a large saucepan and bring
pasta. Add the noodles gradually into the boiling water to the boil for 2 minutes to burn off the alcohol. Add
so that the water temperature does not suddenly drop. the kelp, mushrooms and soaking water to the pan and
Stir gently to stop the noodles from sticking to the bring to the boil, then add the salt and bonito flakes.
bottom of the pan. Let the water return to a full boil Bring it back to the boil again then reduce the heat to
and when it froths up to the top and is about to spill simmer for 5-6 minutes, skimming off any scum that
over, add a cup of cold water — this is called ‘bikkuri- floats to the top, then add the soy sauce.
mizu’, surprise water, and the purpose of this is to
Remove from the heat and strain through a muslin-lined
ensure even cooking. You may need to repeat this 2 or
sieve. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
3 times depending on the dryness of the noodles. To
test, remove one strand of noodle and bite into it — the Transfer the sauce into a sterilised lidded glass jar. Store
noodle should be the same colour throughout and refrigerated for up to 4 weeks.
cooked to the centre with no hard core, yet still quite
HOW TO USE
firm. Test frequently to avoid overcooking. Drain the
The above recipe gives a concentrated sauce and
noodles in a sieve and rinse under cold running water,
needs to be diluted according to different uses:
rubbing vigorously with your hands to wash off surface
starch and drain again. To reheat the cooked noodles, noodle soup broth: 1 part sauce and 1 part water
simply place in a sieve or a colander and plunge into a noodle pouring sauce: 3 parts sauce and 2 parts water
pot of boiling water for 10 seconds or so. Separate the
strands by shaking the sieve in the water then drain. noodle dipping sauce: 2 parts sauce and 1 part water

The above dilution proportions are a rough guide and

you may adjust the seasoning to suit your taste.

cide
aaa Rah a ES

BOWL FOOD 77
SOBA WITH DUCK CHILLED SOBA
IN HOT BROTH IN BASKET
KAMO NAMBAN ZARU SOBA -

This is one of the most popular classic soba dishes, The Japanese summer is relentlessly hot and
| have made a slight change to it by substituting punishingly humid, and many people lose their
Japanese white spring onions (which are difficult to appetite except for these chilled noodles. Zaru soba
find outside of Japan) with young leeks. literally means ‘noodles in basket’ and they are
served on basketwork or bamboo boxes with slatted
bottoms, accompanied by cold dipping sauce. It is a
simple and refreshing summer favourite.
SERVES 7
1 duck breast, skin on
1 tender young leek, trimmed
200g dried soba noodles SERVES?
600ml soup broth (300ml! All-purpose Noodle Sauce, 200g dried soba noodles
page 77 mixed with 300ml water) 2 tablespoons finely shredded toasted nori
shichimi-tdgarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, optional 180ml dipping sauce (120ml All-purpose Noodle
Sauce, page 77 mixed with 60ml water)
Trim the duck breast of excess fat and prick the skin FOR THE SPICY CONDIMENTS
with a fork. Heat a saucepan over a medium heat and 2 teaspoons wasabi paste
wipe the inside base with a clean cold damp cloth (this 2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion
stops the meat from sticking). Place the breast, skin 2 tablespoons grated daikon, giant white radish,
side down, and cook for 3-5 minutes then turn over lightly drained
and cook for a further 3 minutes. Remove from the
heat and rinse under running hot water to wash off
Cook the noodles as on page 77, but do not reheat.
any remaining fat. Put the breast on a chopping board
Divide them between 2 baskets (or ordinary plates, as
to rest.
long as the noodles are well drained).
Wipe the saucepan clean with kitchen paper.
To serve, sprinkle the nori shreds over each serving of
Halve the leek lengthways and cut diagonally into noodles. Serve the dipping sauce in individual cups or
thin slices. small bowls alongside. Place the spicy condiments in
small dishes and let each diner help themselves.
Cut the duck into 3-5mm thick slices. Put the duck
and leek in the cleaned saucepan with the soup broth To eat, mix a dab of wasabi and some spring onion
and bring to the boil while skimming off any scum that with grated radish in the dipping sauce. Pick up some
floats to the surface, and simmer for 5-6 minutes. noodles and dip into the sauce mixture.

Meanwhile cook the noodles as on page 77. Divide

the noodles between 2 warmed bowls. Ladle in the hot
broth mixture, arrange the duck slices on top, sprinkle
with chilli powder (if using) and serve immediately.

78 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

Oe pe Wheneset
MUSHROOM SOBA KINOKO SOBA

Mushrooms are loved by Japanese people for Cut and discard the stems of the shiitake mushrooms.
their flavour, aroma and texture. In this dish, dashi Both shimeji and enoki mushrooms are joined at the
broth is lightly thickened with cornflour to match base, so cut and discard the bases and separate the
the mushrooms’ silky texture. You can use any clumps into bite-size clusters with your hands. Put the
mushrooms of your choice. mushrooms and the broth in a saucepan and heat just
below the boil then stir in the cornflour to thicken.

Meanwhile, cook the noodles as on page 77 and

SERVES 2 portion between 2 warmed bowls. Ladle in the hot
4 shiitake mushrooms broth and arrange the mushrooms attractively then
50g shimeji mushrooms scatter over the chopped spring onion and serve
50g enoki mushrooms immediately.
600ml soup broth (300ml All-purpose Noodle Sauce,
page 77 mixed with 300ml water)
2 tablespoons cornflour mixed with 2 tablespoons water
200g dried soba noodles
1 spring onion, finely chopped on the diagonal, to serve

CHILLED SOBA WITH SPINACH AND WAKAME

WITH SESAME DIPPING SAUCE

| came up with this idea when | faced with a small Put the seaweed in a bowl, cover with water, leave to
mountain of home-grown spinach. The addition of soak for about 10 minutes, then drain. Cut the spinach
spinach and wakame seaweed makes this dish very into10cm long pieces, removing any thick, tough stalks.
healthy and sesame dipping sauce gives it a satisfying
Cook the noodles as on page 77, but just before adding
depth.
a cup of cold water, add the spinach and then the water,
and let it return to the boil. Remove from the heat and
drain, then plunge into cold water and rinse well. Drain
SERVES 2 thoroughly and divide between 2 baskets (or ordinary
40g dried wakame seaweed plates as long as the noodle mix is well drained).
200g spinach
To prepare the sesame dipping sauce, put the sesame
200g dried soba noodles
seeds in a mortar and grind until it becomes a coarse
FOR THE SESAME DIPPING SAUCE paste. Gradually add the noodle sauce and adjust the
50g toasted sesame seeds taste by adding 2-3 tablespoons of water then divide
100ml All-purpose Noodle Sauce (see page 77) between 2 small cups.
2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion
Serve the noodles sprinkled with finely chopped spring
shichimi-tégarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, optional
onion, chilli powder, if using and the cups of dipping
sauce on the side.

SissrsisrnrrnIr
Tr nn

BOWL FOOD 8!
AVOCADO AND PRAWN ON TUNA AND ROCKET
SOBA WITH WASABI SAUCE ON SOBA

This is an adaptation of the rather retro dish, prawns This tasty noodle salad couldn't be easier to make
in avocado. — the only cooking involved is preparing the noodles.
The rest is just a simple assembly job. The all-purpose
noodle sauce doubles up as a salad dressing and
SERVES noodle sauce.
200g dried soba noodles
¥2 white or red onion
10-12 cooked prawns SERVES 2
1 ripe avocado 200g dried soba noodles
4 tablespoons cress 100g rocket
FOR THE WASABI POURING SAUCE 240g tin tuna, in spring water, drained
2-3 teaspoons wasabi paste shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, to serve,
350ml noodle pouring sauce (150ml All-purpose optional
Noodle Sauce, page 77, mixed with 100ml water) FOR THE POURING SAUCE
350ml noodle pouring sauce (150ml All-purpose
Cook the noodles as on page 77, drain and portion
Noodle Sauce, page 77, mixed with 100ml water)
between 2 dishes.
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Peel and finely slice the onion then soak in a bowl of 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
cold water for 10 minutes — this helps to remove the 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
strong onion odour.

Mix the wasabi paste and the noodle pouring sauce Cook the noodles as on page 77, drain and portion
then divide between 2 small bowls. between 2 dishes.

Slice the avocado in half and remove the stone. Peel, Put all the ingredients for the pouring sauce in a lidded
then cut the flesh into bite-size pieces. glass jar and shake well to mix.

Drain the onion slices and place on top of the noodles. Place the rocket on top of the soba, then place the
Arrange the avocado and prawns on top of the onion drained tuna on top.
layer then garnish with cress. Serve with the wasabi
Pour the sauce over the noodle arrangement. Sprinkle
noodle sauce on the side.
with chilli powder, if using, and serve.

82 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

MOON UDON TSUKIMI UDON

Tsukimi literally means ‘moon viewing’ in Japanese, Cook the noodles as on page 77 and portion between
which is a genteel pastime in autumn when the air 2 warmed bowls. Keep warm. Pre heating the bowls is
is clear and the moon is full. Here, the whole yellow particularly important for this recipe as you need all the
egg yolk in the centre is depicted as the full moon retained heat to semi-cook the eggs.
surrounded by semi-cooked egg white and noodles as Meanwhile, heat the noodle sauce and mirin in a
clouds. Choose the freshest eggs you can find. saucepan with 400ml of cold water to just below
boiling. Pour half a ladleful of hot broth over each
noodle mound and keep the rest on a simmer.
SERVES®
If including kamaboko, arrange 2 slices at the side of
200g dried udon noodles
the noodles. With the back of a ladle, make a hollowed
300ml All-purpose Noodle Sauce (see page 77)
nest in the centre of the noodles. Crack an egg and
2 tablespoons mirin
gently place the whole egg in the nest and ladle the
4 slices of kamaboko, fish paste cake, optional
remaining broth around it, then immediately cover each
2 eggs
bowl with cling film to ‘poach’ the egg for 1 minute.
1 spring onion, finely chopped, to garnish
The egg white should turn opaque white from the heat
shichimi-tégarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, optional
of the broth but if you prefer the egg more cooked,
microwave (800kw) for 10-12 seconds. Remove the
cling film, garnish with the chopped spring onion and a
sprinkle of chilli powder, if liked, and serve immediately.

BEEF UDON NIKU UDON

Beef gives extra meaty depth to otherwise simple Slice the beef into thin 4-5cm long pieces. Cut the leek
plain-tasting noodle dishes. Japanese beef is into 1cm thick slices on the diagonal. Heat the oil in a
butchered differently from Western beef and in saucepan over a medium heat and just before adding
general meat is sold thinly sliced. the beef, place the bottom on a cool damp cloth — this
stops the meat sticking to the base, then add the beef
and cook for 1 minute. Pour in 400ml water and bring
to the boil skimming off any scum that floats to the
SERVES 2
surface. Add the leek and noodle sauce and reduce the
1 young leek, white part only
heat to a gentle simmer while you cook the noodle.
160g minute steak or silverside
2 teaspoons vegetable oil Cook the noodles as on page 77, drain and portion
300ml All-purpose Noodle Sauce (see page 77) between 2 warmed bowls.
200g dried udon noodles
Ladle in the soup broth and sprinkle over sansho
sansho pepper, to taste
pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

84 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

RAMEN SOY RAMEN
CHINESE-STYLE NOODLES SHOYU RAMEN

Chinese-style noodles better known as ramen were In this dish, understated dashi broth is transformed
originally brought back from China by returning into punchy noodle soup with the addition of ginger
soldiers and their families after the end of the and garlic.
Second World War. Typically these straight or curly
noodles are served in a hot soup with slices of
roasted pork, beansprouts and chopped spring SERVES
onion but there are countless combinations ranging 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
from a more Japanese flavour of soy- or miso- Ya onion, finely sliced
based stock to those with a very rich pig's trotter 1¥%2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
stock and added chilli oil. As well as ingredients, 2 tablespoons grated garlic
ramen may be named after a region where they 800ml dashi of your choice (see page 29-31)
are popular. For example, in Sapporo in Hokkaido, 4 tablespoons soy sauce
where miso-ramen originated in 1955, there is an 2 tablespoons dried wakame seaweed
entire street devoted to serving the noodles and 200g dried or semi-fresh Chinese-style noodles
Sapporo-ramen and miso-ramen have become 2 spring onions, finely chopped, to garnish
synonymous. Another example of the strong 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
association between an ingredient and a region is
tonkotsu-ramen, made of a rich pig's trotter stock,
which is particularly popular in Hakata in Kydshd, Heat the oil in a wok and cook the onion, ginger and
and the noodles are often called Hakata-ramen. garlic over a medium heat until the onions are softened,
then add the dashi. Do not let it boil as this will make
One major difference between ramen and native the broth cloudy, so reduce the heat to low and simmer
Japanese noodles such as soba and udon is for 5-8 minutes while skimming off any scum that floats
that while the texture of soba and udon is the to the surface. Season the broth with soy sauce and
key element, ramen are identified by the soup adjust the taste with more soy sauce if needed.
stock they are served with. Ramen shops try to
distinguish themselves from others by their own Meanwhile, put the seaweed in a bowl, cover with water
stock — the importance of stock-making was and leave to soak for 10 minutes to soften, then drain.

humorously illustrated in a foodie film called Cook the dried noodles as shown on page 77 and drain.
Tampopo. Whether using chicken bones or pig’s Or if you are using semi-fresh noodles, heat and refresh
trotter, ramen stock making is time consuming in boiling water for a few minutes, while separating the
and is not normally undertaken by average strands, then drain.
Japanese home cooks — they either eat out or
use ready-made stock powder. But here are two Divide the noodles between 2 warmed bowls. Ladle
relatively quick and easy recipes for you to enjoy at in the soup, place the wakame in the centre, top with
home. ; spring onions, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve
immediately.

86 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 SAPPORO MISO RAMEN
SAPPORO RAMEN

This is a hearty robust noodle dish that is guaranteed To make the base for the miso, put the onion, carrot
to warm your body and soul. and garlic in a food processor, whiz until puréed.

Heat the chilli and sesame oils in a wok and lightly

stir-fry the vegetable purée over a medium heat. Add
SERVES 2
the sake, sugar, soy sauce and miso and stir until well
1 onion, roughly chopped mixed. Pour in the chicken stock and bring to just below
1 carrot, roughly chopped the boil, add the bacon then reduce the heat to low
2 garlic cloves and simmer while you prepare the noodles.
-Y2 teaspoon chilli oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and cook the
_ 1 tablespoon sake noodles for 3-4 minutes (2-3 minutes if using semi-fresh
_ 2 teaspoons sugar variety). Just a minute before the noodles are ready,
_ 4 tablespoons soy sauce add the beansprouts to the pan and blanch for the last
46 tablespoons medium-coloured miso minute. Drain and divide the noodles and beansprouts
1 litre chicken stock (preferably home- made or use a between 2 warmed bowls.
stock cube) Ladle in the soup and arrange the toppings over and
4 rashers unsmoked streaky bacon, cut into Sem - serve immediately.
long pieces
200g dried or semi-fresh eee! noodles
100g beansprouts
FOR THE TOPPINGS ah
tablespoons cooked sweetcorn kernels(fresh or

BOWL FOOQ
CHILLED CHINESE-STYLE NOODLE SALAD
HIYASHI-CHUKA

This is another example of Japanese adaptation Prick the chicken leg all over with a fork and put in a
of foreign imports. Although this big and colourful saucepan with 100ml water (just enough to cover), the
noodle salad uses Chinese-style noodles the origin is sake, spring onion and ginger. Cover with a lid, bring
not found in China but is a Japanese invention. to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook for a
further 12-15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat,
uncover and set aside until the chicken is cool enough
SERVES? to handle. Reserve the cooking broth for making the
FOR THE CHICKEN LEG vinaigrette later. Remove and discard the skin and bone
1 chicken leg and shred the meat with a fork. Set aside.
1 tablespoon sake Soak the shiitake mushrooms in warm water for
1 spring onion, 10cm piece of green part only 5-8 minutes. Lightly squeeze the mushrooms (reserve
a few slices of fresh ginger the soaking juice) discard the stems, thinly slice the
FOR THE SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS caps then put in a small saucepan with the reserved
2 dried shiitake mushrooms mushroom soaking juice mixed with sugar, mirin,
2 teaspoons sugar sake and soy sauce. Cook over a gentle heat for
2 teaspoons mirin 8-10 minutes, turn off the heat and set aside.
2 teaspoons sake
Mix all the omelette ingredients, except the vegetable
2 teaspoons soy sauce
oil, in a bowl then strain through a sieve to make the
FOR THE OMELETTES mixture smooth. Heat the vegetable oil in a non-stick
1 egg, beaten frying pan, about 15cm in diameter, over a medium
Y2 teaspoon sugar heat, and thinly spread with half of the egg mixture.
a pinch of salt Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side. Repeat the process
Ya teaspoon vegetable oil with the rest of the egg mixture. Transfer the omelettes
FOR THE SOY VINAIGRETTE to a chopping board, fold and cut into thin strips.
2 tablespoons soy sauce Make the vinaigrette by putting all the ingredients plus
3 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon of the reserved chicken broth in a small
1 tablespoon sugar lidded jam jar and shake vigorously.
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
Cook the dried noodles as on page 77 and drain.
FOR THE NOODLES AND SALAD
If you are using semi-fresh noodles, heat and refresh
200g dried or semi-fresh Chinese-style noodles
in boiling water for a few minutes, while separating
1 Lebanese cucumber, quartered lengthways, de-
the strands, then drain. Rinse the noodles under
seeded and finely sliced
cold running water and drain well. Divide between
3 baby vine tomatoes, halved
2 individual serving plates.
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
To assemble, divide the chicken, mushrooms, omelette
and cucumber into 2 portions, place each topping on
the noodle beds, making 4 coloured quarters. Place 3
tomato halves in the centre, sprinkle the sesame seeds
over, pour the vinaigrette around the noodles and
serve.

88 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

RICE KOME

Rice takes the centre stage in Japanese food and PLAIN BOILED RICE {il (gohan)
culture. Not only is it Japan's staple, it is an essential
MIXED RICE j£242 lf (maze-gohan) Raw or pre-cooked
ingredient in many other foods, including sake (the
ingredients are mixed into plain cooked rice during the
national drink), mirin, which is an important seasoning
steaming period or just before serving.
ingredient, and vinegar, another key ingredient to
many dishes, most famously for sushi. Rice bran is also RICE COOKED WITH THINGS IK ZjAAT BR (takikomi-
used to make countless varieties of pickles. gohan) Various ingredients, raw or pre-cooked are put
in the pot with uncooked rice and cooked all together.
The history of rice parallels that of the nation as a
whole. From early times, families who grew more RED RICE 457 (okowa) Originally referred to plain
rice became more powerful, seizing agricultural, steamed glutinous rice, but today this refers to 7KEK
political and economic supremacy over other clans sekihan, red rice, made from glutinous rice steamed
and eventually ruling the whole country. During the with adzuki beans. The dish is prepared for special
medieval period, rice was an alternative currency. celebratory occasions.
Each feudal lord's wealth was counted in terms of a
HOT RICE WITH TOPPINGS ## (donburi) Hot plain rice is
rice volume unit called koku, 4 (one koku is roughly
served with various toppings such as fish, meat, egg
5 bushels, about 150kg in weight) and samurai were
or vegetables in a lidded large rice bowl, which is also
paid their stipends in koku of rice. The rice farmers
called donburi.
themselves, however, rarely ate the grain because they
were excluded from the currency system and had to RICE BALLS 451c £9 (onigiri) Japan's portable food
save rice to pay heavy taxes. Rice crops often failed equivalent of Western sandwiches. Cooked rice
and there was always the fear of famine. This long, is shaped usually into triangular, often oval and
lingering, relative scarcity helped shape the respectful occasionally ping-pong ball shapes with or without
Japanese attitude to rice. tasty morsels such as a pickled plum or a small piece
of grilled salted salmon concealed inside, wrapped
By the 1960s, the rising tide of Westernisation meant
in toasted nori seaweed.
that the Japanese were eating less rice than previous
generations, but it has never lost its special position in TEA-FLAVOURED RICE 43487H'3 (ochazuke) A simple dish
people’s hearts or stomachs. Regardless of how many or snack where various things such as a piece of salted
other dishes are served, Japanese people feel they salmon, shred of nori, or pickled plums are placed on
have not eaten properly unless there is rice. In fact, the top of hot or cold cooked rice and hot tea is poured
word for cooked rice f#lf gohan is the same as a meal. over it.

The short-grain rice that is grown and eaten in Japan RICE PORRIDGE OR GRUEL #ELK (zdsui) Cooked rice is
is japonica a subspecies of oryza sativa. It may be cooked again with various ingredients such as fish,
non-glutinous uruchimai or glutinous mochigome. egg, poultry or vegetables in dashi.
Japanese people generally prefer to eat polished non-
RICE GRUEL +35 (o-kayu) A Japanese cure-all in which
glutinous white rice but recent health trends have led
uncooked rice is cooked with a lot of water: the
to the wider availability of both unpolished brown rice
common ratios of rice to water are 1:5, 1:7, 1:10 and
and ‘converted’ rice, which is processed so that the
1:15. The thickness of the gruel is determined by the
nutrients and vitamins lost during the polishing are
amount of water and the speed of cooking — the more
put back. water and faster cooking over a higher heat gives a
Rice is cooked and served in a variety of ways: thinner and more watery consistency.

90 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PLAIN BOILED RICE GOHAN

When | first came to England to attend a boarding To cook, place the pan, covered, over a medium heat
school | had the humiliating experience of not and bring to just boiling. Turn the heat up to high
knowing how to cook rice in an ordinary saucepan. and boil vigorously for 2-3 minutes: the starchy liquid
Nowadays in Japan, almost every household large or will bubble up and steam will escape from under the
small, even single student lodgings, has an automatic lid. When the bubbling ceases and it goes quiet,
rice cooker, | mumbled in protest. Since then | relearnt reduce the heat to very low and cook for another 8-10
the art of cooking rice in a saucepan. minutes. All the time you must not lift the lid but learn
to listen. Turn off the heat, still keeping the lid on and
stand to steam for 10-15 minutes before lifting the lid.

In Japan, rice is measured in the traditional unit of Fluff the rice with a well moistened wooden rice paddle
#7, 96, (this is 180ml in volume or about 150g dried or a flat spatula in a cut-and-turn motion. If you are not
weight). Allow about 70-80g uncooked rice per serving it straight away, stretch a tea towel under the
serving. Short-grain rice expands roughly double in lid to catch and stop condensation dropping back into
weight when cooked. the rice.

To wash, put rice in a large bowl, cover with cold water NOTE ON FOOD SAFETY
and stir quickly with your hands for about 30 seconds | am often asked ‘Is it safe to reheat rice?’ and the
then drain immediately. Never let the rice stand in this answer is ‘yes’, but the important point to prevent food
first milky water - the milkiness comes from powdered poisoning rests on how it is cooled and stored and not
bran and starch that should be washed away. Repeat with the reheating process itself.
the washing and changing water process until the
Uncooked rice and other cereal products such as
water runs clear, this should take about 5 minutes. Do
pasta frequently contain bacteria called bacillus
not skip this process as poorly washed rice is smelly
cereus. Unfortunately it survives when boiled in water,
and spoils quickly.
and if the rice is slowly cooled and stored at room
Let the rice stand in a colander for 30 minutes to drain. temperature, the bacterium germinate and multiply to
While standing, the rice will absorb moisture and produce a poisonous toxin.
expand in volume by about 20 per cent.
Simple tips to safely eat cooked rice:
Choose a heavy, round, deep saucepan with a tight-
Cook only the amount of rice needed and serve it
fitting lid. A cast-iron enamelled saucepan of an
straight away.
appropriate size is ideal. Cooked in too large a pot,
the rice will be dry, or even scorched while if too small Either keep cooked rice hot (above 60°C) or cool it
a pot is used, with not enough head-room, the rice as fast as possible and keep it refrigerated (below
becomes gluey. 5°C) until needed. Cooked rice cools down quicker
It is rather difficult to prescribe an exact formula for the if divided into smaller quantities and placed in clean
shallow containers or in a colander under cold running
amount of water used in cooking rice because there
water.
are so many variables — where the rice was grown,
in a flooded paddy (Asian origin) or dry field (US or Rice freezes well but defrost it quickly by either using
European origin), whether the rice is newly harvested boiling water or microwave directly from frozen and
or it has been sitting on the shelf for sometime, etc. As do not let it stand at room temperature after defrosting
a general, but flexible rule, use enough water to cover or reheating.
the rice by 2.5cm.

92 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

CHICKEN AND EGG ON RICE BEEF ON RICE
OYAKO-DONBURI GYUDON

Oyako, means ‘a parent and a child’ and as the This is another popular donburi dish, especially
name suggests it is made with chicken and eggs. among the young. There is a fast-food chain
It is arguably the most representative dish of the company that boasts an impressive growth record
donburi genre. and is listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange serving
this single item.

SERVES 4
80ml light soy sauce
SERVES 4
80ml mirin
400g thinly sliced beef steak, such as minute steak
400ml Dashi or chicken stock (see page 29)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons sugar
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
200g chicken breast or mini chicken fillets, thinly sliced 80ml mirin
4 spring onions, cut diagonally into 2cm lengths 80ml soy sauce
4 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
800g freshly cooked hot rice 800g freshly cooked hot rice

Put the soy sauce, mirin, dashi or stock and sugar in

Pound the beef with the back of a knife or rolling pin to
a saucepan and bring to a gentle boil over a medium
flatten, cut into paper-thin 5cm length pieces.
heat. Add the chicken and simmer for 8 minutes then
add the spring onions and simmer for another minute. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a high heat and stir-fry
the onions for a few minutes. Add the beef and stir-fry
Divide the mixture into 4 portions and put one portion
until it is just turning brown then pour in 200m! of water,
in asmall pan while keeping the rest warm - this is to
the mirin and soy sauce, and bring to the boil. Remove
make the egg cooking time shorter and easier than
from the heat and add the grated ginger.
handling a larger amount. Gently pour 1 beaten egg, in
a steady stream, over the chicken mixture, let the egg Divide the hot rice between 4 warmed donburi or deep
spread naturally and do not stir. When the egg starts soup bowls. With a large spoon, scoop one portion of
to bubble at the edges, stir once, and let the mixture the beef mixture and sauce on top of the rice and serve
just begin to set then turn off the heat. Do not let the immediately.
mixture set firm.

Put the hot rice into 4 warmed donburi or deep soup

bowls. Slide the egg mixture on top of the rice and
repeat the process with the remaining egg while
keeping the others warm. Serve immediately.

isn

BOWL FOOD 93
RICE COOKED WITH FRESH PEAS ENDO-GOHAN

A bowl of plump green peas among glistening Wash the rice and set aside to drain in a colander for
white rice not only looks beautiful but is also 30 minutes.
a tasty new-season arrival.
Shell the peas, rinse under cold running water and
drain. Put the rice, peas and 360ml water in a heavy-
based saucepan with the salt and mirin and stir once.
SERVES4 Cook as on page 92. Fluff the rice and serve.
300g rice
VARIATION
200g fresh peas in pods (or about 100g podded peas)
1 teaspoon salt Use frozen edamame beans instead of the peas.
2 teaspoons mirin

MUSHROOM RICE KINOKO-GOHAN

This is a more economical adaptation of a recipe Wash the rice and set aside to drain in a colander for
that usually includes a luxury mushroom called 30 minutes.
‘matsutake’, literally pine-mushroom. These are highly
Cut and discard the bases of shimeji and enoki
fragrant and expensive fungi — Japan’s equivalent of
mushrooms and separate the clumps with your hands.
white truffle.
Cut and discard the stems of the shiitake and slice the
caps.

Put the rice with 300ml water in a heavy-based

SERVES 4
saucepan. Add the sake, soy sauce and salt and stir.
300g rice
Place the mushrooms on top of the rice and cover with
100g shimeji or maitake mushrooms
the lid. Cook the rice as described on page 92. Fluff
50g enoki mushrooms
and mix the rice when cooked and serve.
4 shiitake mushrooms
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
Ya teaspoon salt

94 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TUNA ON RICE RICE MIXED WITH
TEKKADON EGG AND TOMATO
TAMAGO-KAKE-GOHAN
This is a rather unique dish as the only ingredient
which is cooked is the rice.
Tamago-kake-gohan loosely translates as ‘egg put on
rice’ where warm rice is mixed with raw egg and must
be the simplest form of ‘cooking’.
SERVES 4
400g sashimi-grade tuna
2 ripe avocados
SERVES4
6 tablespoons soy sauce
Ya tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons mirin
4 medium-size tomatoes, deseeded and cut
2 teaspoons wasabi paste
into 1cm dice
1 tablespoon toasted white sesame seeds
2 spring onions, finely chopped
800g freshly cooked hot rice
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
4 spring onions, finely chopped, to garnish
4 eggs, beaten
4 small handfuls of shredded nori, to garnish
4 servings of freshly cooked rice, weighing
about 140g each
Cut the tuna into 8mm thick bite-size pieces. Cut the 4 small handfuls of shredded nori, to garnish
avocados in half, remove the stones and peel, then cut
the flesh into 8mm thick bite-size pieces.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and add
Mix the soy sauce, sake, mirin, wasabi paste and the ginger, diced tomatoes and spring onions. Cook for
sesame seeds in a bowl and add the tuna and avocado. 2-3 minutes and add the soy sauce.
Set aside to marinate for 10-12 minutes, turning over a
Pour in the beaten eggs, quickly stir to mix and turn off
few times.
the heat. The residue heat from the pan will semi-cook
Put the hot rice in 4 warmed donburi or deep soup the egg mixture to a runny consistency. Quickly add
bowls. Divide the tuna mix into 4 portions and arrange the hot rice and mix in a cut-and-turn motion. Divide
on top of the rice, drizzle over any remaining juice, between 4 individual bowls, garnish with nori shreds
scatter with chopped spring onions and nori and serve. and serve.

BOWL FOOD 97
RED RICE SEA BREAM RICE
OKOWA / SEKIHAN TAI-MESHI

You will need a bamboo steamer for this recipe and to This is one of the most celebrated rice dishes of all,
start the day before you intend serving it. which is not surprising as it combines two of Japan's
most popular ingredients — rice and sea bream.
Traditionally a whole handsome fish is cooked in a
donabe, a lidded clay.casserole, and brought to the
SERVES 4 table. In this version, the fish is grilled separately and
80g dried adzuki beans added later for easier eating and serving.
400g mochigome, glutinous rice
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon toasted black sesame seeds, to garnish
Ya teaspoon sea salt SERVES4
300g rice
300ml Primary or Secondary Dashi (see page 29-30)
Soak the beans in plenty of water for 3-4 hours, then
2 tablespoons sake
drain. Parboil for 5 minutes in a generous amount of
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
water, drain, change the water and repeat the process.
400g sea bream fillet, skin on
Put the beans in a saucepan with 400ml of cold water, 1 teaspoon salt
bring to the boil, uncovered, then simmer for 10 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely julienned
minutes or until the water turns reddish. Drain the
beans, reserving the water. Using a ladle held high Wash and drain the rice then place it in a heavy-based
above another bowl, aerate and cool the water 5-6 saucepan with the dashi, sake and soy sauce. Leave to
times to brighten the colour. stand for 10 minutes.
Wash and rinse the rice (see page 92), put in a pan Cut the fish into 5mm thick bite-size pieces by holding
with the reserved red water and let stand for 24 hours the knife at a 30° angle so that the blade is almost
or overnight; this tints the rice pink. Drain and reserve horizontal to the fillet. Transfer onto a flat bamboo
200m! of the water. Add 1 teaspoon of salt to the water basket or a paper-lined plate then gently rub the salt on
and set aside. the skin side and stand for 5-8 minutes.
Fill a saucepan with plenty of water and bring to Preheat the grill to high and grill the fish for 5 minutes
a rapid boil. Mix the rice and beans evenly and spread on each side.
out on a damp cloth in a bamboo steamer. Place
this over the saucepan, steam over a high heat for Cook the rice over a medium heat, when it reaches
20 minutes, then lift off the lid and sprinkle over a the boil and steam begins to rise, reduce the heat to
tablespoonftul of the red salted water, repeat this low and quickly place the fish, skin side up, on top of
several times, continuing to steam over a high heat the rice, cover immediately and continue to cook until
for a further 15-20 minutes. the steam stops. Turn off the heat and quickly scatter
over the ginger, cover again and steam for further
Mix the sesame seeds with the sea salt in a small bowl. 10 minutes before serving.
If you are not serving straight away, the rice needs to be
cooled down quickly (spread it on a large flat surface
such as a roasting tray). Serve in individual bowls,
sprinkled with sesame salt.

98 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

RICE BALLS ONIGIRI

Onigiri is Japan's traditional equivalent of sandwiches. An ideal amount of rice is about the size of a normal
It is highly versatile and portable and, with a bit of rice bowl or coffee cup — 100-120g in weight.
practice, can easily be made quickly. Freshly cooked
The way to handle hot rice without scorching your
rice is usually shaped into triangular, often oval and
hands is to use a clean damp cloth and a rice bowl
occasionally round pieces and wrapped in nori or
or coffee cup. Put a portion of rice in a rice bowl and
coated with sesame seeds. In the centre there are
transfer onto a tightly wrung-out cloth held over your
some concealed tasty morsels such as umeboshi,
hand then cover the rice with the cloth and squeeze.
pickled plum, a small piece of grilled salted salmon,
Unwrap the rice and transfer onto well moistened hands
tarako, cod roe, or soy-seasoned bonito flakes.
(they should be well moistened, but not drenched,
It is an ideal picnic food or party finger food. It can also with mild salt water to stop the rice from sticking and
be served at home for a change from the usual bowl to season the rice). Squeeze and shape into a triangle.
of rice. To make good onigiri takes practice. Hot rice is Make an indentation in the middle of the rice and tuck
pressed just enough to keep the grains together and in about a teaspoon of filling (see below) and continue
keeps its shape, but not so hard that all the air pockets moulding to cover the filling with the rice. The key point
are squashed out, making it too solid. It is rather like is to avoid packing the rice too hard or too loose.
making nigiri-zushi, but onigiri is a home food and
Wrap each triangle with a strip of nori, shiny side out.
millions of Japanese people do it without even thinking
about it. So here are some helpful tips for you: SUGGESTED FILLINGS: Grilled and flaked salted salmon,
Onigiri must be made with freshly cooked hot rice. grilled salted cod roe (tarako), soy-doused bonito flakes
Cold rice does not easily hold together without a lot of (katsuobushi), stoned pickled plums (umeboshi) or
dried salted konbu seaweed (shio-konbu).
pressing, hence making the balls hard and dry.

TEA-FLAVOURED RICE OCHAZUKE

A traditional Japanese meal ends with a bowl of rice

and pickles, followed by a cup of green tea. Pouring
tea over the rice with pickles or crumbled nori started
as an informal homely practice but proved so good
that it developed into a delicious dish of its own right
with a variety of topping ingredients added. It is also
a delicious way of using up cold leftover rice. Use any
type of tea except matcha, ceremonial powdered green
tea (see pages 241-242).

100 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SALT-SALMON AND RICE SALT-SALMON SHIOZAKE
SAKE-CHAZUKE
In Japan, salmon is almost always sold ready-salted
Salt-salmon, shiozake, is possibly one of my favourite and it is one of the most popular ingredients — it
and most used ingredients. There is always a jar of appears at traditional breakfast, in lunch boxes or
shiozake flakes in my fridge, ready to be used for even at a simple supper table.
a quick ochazuke, rice ball filling, in salads, or with
noodles. It is highly versatile and cunningly easy to
make and keeps for a couple of weeks refrigerated 1-2 tablespoon sea salt
though it always gets eaten before. When | was a 600g salmon fillet, skin on
small child, upon seeing a whole salmon or yellowtail
hanging under the eaves of my grandparents’ house, Rub salt all over both sides of the fillet. Line a plate with
| used to wonder how cold air and salt could turn the a double layer of kitchen paper and place the fillet skin-
fish even more delicious. side down. Loosely cover the fillet with kitchen paper and
place in the refrigerator for 5 days, after which time, you
will have.a rather stiff umami-packed fillet, ready to be
portioned and grilled. Salt-salmon can be stored frozen
SERVES 4
up to 4 weeks.
4 portions of cooked rice, about 140g each hot or cold
8 heaped tablespoons salt-salmon flakes (see right)
4 tablespoons toasted and ground white sesame seeds
2 teaspoons wasabi paste
SALT-SALMON FLAKES
4 cups of hot green tea of your choice

600g salt-salmon (see above)

Put each portion of rice in a bowl, place 2 tablespoons
4 tablespoons sake
of salt-salmon flakes on top, scatter 1 tablespoon of
2-3 teaspoons light soy sauce
sesame seeds over, place a dab of wasabi paste on
top, pour a cup of hot tea and serve.
Cut the fillet into 2-3 portions so that they fit snuggly
into a large saucepan and pour over just enough water
to cover. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, reduce
the heat and simmer for 10-12 minutes. Remove the
fish from the pan and transfer to a chopping board.
When cool enough to handle, remove the skin and any
bones. Scrape off the brown meat and with your hands
roughly break up the fillets into smaller pieces.

Wipe the bottom of a saucepan with a clean damp

cloth (this helps the fish not stick) then add the fish
pieces with the sake and soy sauce. Cook over a gentle
heat until most of the cooking juice has evaporated,
stirring constantly. Do not let the flakes become too
dry, stopping while they are still moist. Remove from
the heat and spread on a large plate to cool down
before storing in sterilised jam jars. The flakes keep for
2 weeks, refrigerated.

102 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

RICE PORRIDGE ZOSUI CRAB AND BROCCOLI
PORRIDGE
Zosui written #47 means ‘increasing water’, which was
KANI-ZOSUI
also the original spelling of this dish. In the old days
when rice was scarce, water or dashi was added to
make it go further. Today it is often seen as a delicious Although zosui is often made with leftover rice and
dish for rice-loving weight-watchers. You can use whatever off-cuts can be found in the fridge to make
almost any ingredients with either freshly cooked or an economical meal, this one has a touch of luxury.

more often leftover rice. The key point is to keep the

broth clear, so if using freshly cooked rice it should be
slightly undercooked and leftover rice must be rinsed SERVES 4
to get rid of starch. Use about double the amount 600g cooked rice
of water or dashi to the cooked rice and do not over 1.2 litres dashi of your choice (see pages 29-31)
cook otherwise it will be gluey. Zdsui is a popular and 4 tablespoons sake
delicious way to round up a hot-pot — cooked rice is 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
added to whatever is left in the pot at the end. Think of 1 tablespoon salt
this type of dish as Japan’s answer to risotto. 120g Chinese cabbage, roughly chopped
120g sprouting broccoli, cut into 3—5cm long pieces
200g white crabmeat

RICE GRUEL O-KAYU If you are using leftover rice, put it in a large sieve and
rinse under hot running water to wash off the starch
and drain. Put the dashi with the sake, light soy sauce
and salt in a saucepan and bring to the boil over a
This is the Japanese penicillin-like equivalent to Jewish
medium heat. Add the vegetables and simmer for 5-7
cure-all chicken soup. When someone is not feeling
minutes or until they are cooked through.
well, he will be given a bowl of o-kayu (honorific kayu)
rice gruel. Every Japanese baby is weaned on o-kayu Add the rice and crabmeat and continue to simmer for
while the sick and old are nursed with it. This most a further 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning if necessary,
gentle and easily digestible dish is made by cooking remove from the heat and divide between 4 warmed
rice in a lot of water. The common proportions of bowls and serve immediately.
water to rice are 5 times or 7 times water to rice while
sometimes 10 times or even 20 times water is used to
make very watery versions. The speed of cooking also
affects the consistency — the slower the cooking over
a gentle heat, without stirring, the more smooth and
gluey the end result. The main difference between
kayu and zésui is that kayu is made with uncooked
rice that is cooked in water from the beginning while
already cooked rice is used for zOsui.

i
a EE

BOWL FOOD 103

EGG AND CHIVE PORRIDGE
NIRATAMA-ZOSUI

My mother used to make me this comforting and tasty If you are using leftover rice, put it in a large sieve and
dish whenever | was beginning to come down with rinse under hot running water to wash off the starch
a cold. It is warming and reviving yet easy to digest. and drain. Put the dashi, sake, soy sauce and salt in a
Chinese chives are deep green and flat leaved and saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat.
sold in Asian grocery shops. Add the chives then reduce the heat and simmer for
5-7 minutes.

Add the rice and return to the simmer over a medium

SERVES4 heat. Then drizzle the beaten egg over the rice, do not
600g cooked rice stir but immediately cover and remove from the heat.
1.2 litres dashi of your choice (see pages 29-31) The eggs will cook in the residual heat of the pot but
4 tablespoons sake still be soft and runny. Divide between 4 warmed bowls
4 tablespoons light soy sauce and serve immediately with spoons. The secret of this
2-3 teaspoons salt dish is to eat it while it is still hot and the eggs are soft.
100g Chinese chives, cut into 3—-4cm lengths
4 eggs, beaten

CHICKEN AND MISO PORRIDGE

TORI MISO-ZOSUI

This dish has a plenty of flavour from the chicken and If you are using leftover rice, put it in a large sieve and
miso — think of it as a Japanese chicken risotto. rinse under hot running water to wash off the starch
and drain. Cut the chicken into thin bite-size pieces
and mix in a bowl with the sake. Put the dashi and soy
in a saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium
SERVES4
heat then add the chicken mixture. Reduce the heat
600g cooked rice
to a simmer, skimming off any scum that floats to the
200g chicken thigh fillets
surface, and cook for 5-7 minutes.
4 tablespoons sake
1.2 litres dashi of your choice (see pages 29-31) Put the miso in a small bowl and add a ladle of the
2 tablespoons soy sauce broth to soften, then pour the mixture into the pan.
8 tablespoons medium-coloured miso Add the rice then let it return to a simmer and cook for
4 spring onions, finely chopped diagonally another 3-5 minutes. Scatter the spring onions over and
remove from the heat. Divide between 4 warmed bowls
and serve immediately.

104 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SUSHI

A high-ranking Japanese diplomat once joked that a But the most important development was the invention
piece of sushi in his hand probably did more to raise of nigiri-zushi, hand-squeezed sushi, also known as
Japan's profile and made more friends around the Edomae-zushi or Tokyo-style sushi, where a handful
world than his official efforts. His comment has an of vinegar-flavoured rice is shaped into an oblong ball
element of truth and many would have no hesitation in and served with a topping of sliced fish or shellfish.
nominating sushi as their favourite Japanese food. Nigiri-zushi takes only a few minutes to make and
became an instant hit, but only in Tokyo. At the end
Sushi is defined as ‘fish fermented in rice and salt’ but
of the Second World War, in order to get around
is more commonly understood as ‘vinegar-seasoned
difficulties posed by post-war food rationing on the
cooked rice served with fish, seafood or vegetables’. It
restaurant industry, SCAP (the Supreme Commander
began in Asia as a way to preserve fish by fermentation
for the Allied Powers) permitted sushi bars to exchange
and shares the same origin as Thailand’s famous fish
a cup of uncooked rice for 10 pieces of nigiri-zushi
sauce, nam pla. It is not known when it was introduced
and a roll. This guidance led, almost overnight, to the
to Japan but 7th century records show it was already
nationwide domination of Tokyo-style sushi and to the
an important source of protein and was brought to
evolution of sushi as a universally recognisable fresh
the land-bound ancient capital of Nara from coastal
fast-food.
regions as a tax payment in kind. It was called nare-
zushi, where fish was salted and pickled in beds of Although nigiri-zushi is the most popular style of sushi,
rice and salt to naturally ferment for up to a year or it is almost never made at home as it is an art that
longer. Airborne bacteria converts the rice starch into require years of dedicated training. But there’s no need
lactic acid and together with salt preserves the fish. to be disheartened because there are many styles of
Many varieties of nare-zushi are still made as regional sushi that can be made at home without undergoing
delicacies around Japan. The most famous funa-zushi, a years of apprenticeship.
highly pungent strong-tasting fermented carp is made
around the largest freshwater lake Biwa near Kyoto.

Nare-zushi, relaying on slow natural fermentation

continued to be the only sushi making method until SUSHI RICE SUSHI-MESHI
the beginning of the 17th century when the Tokugawa
clan finally unified the country. One of the major
benefits of the new peaceful era was the increase in Good sushi, whatever the style, always begins with
food production, especially rice. More rice meant rice- good sushi rice, which is a little harder and chewier than
based products, such as sake and rice vinegar, became plain boiled rice because it is cooked with less water to
more readily available and it was around this time that allow for the addition of sushi vinegar. Once cooked, it
vinegar began being added to flavour the rice instead is quickly cooled while being tossed with the vinegar in
of relying on the slow process of airborne bacteria. a specially designed shallow wooden tub called hangiri,
To distinguish it from nare-zushi, the newly invented made of Japanese cypress and hooped with copper.
vinegar-flavoured sushi was named haya-zushi, literally Hangiri are expensive, even in Japan, so use any wide,
‘quick-sushi’. The addition of vinegar also freed the shallow, non-metallic tub instead. Always choose short-
rice from having to be shaped in moulds or boxes and grain Japanese-style rice and avoid newly harvested
other styles of sushi, including maki-zushi (nori-rolled rice as it is too soft and contains too much moisture.
sushi), were developed.

106 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

HOW TO PREPARE SUSHI VINEGAR
SUSHI RICE Saworlesu

MAKES 800-840G Sushi vinegar is a blend of rice vinegar with sugar and
400g short-grain rice salt. It is an all-important integral part of sushi making
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp and gives otherwise plain cooked rice a subtle depth
6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sushi of flavour and sheen. There is no set-in-stone recipe
vinegar (see opposite) and the ratio differs according to different types of
toppings; for strong flavoured ingredients such as
grilled eel or cured mackerel a sweeter vinegar mix
Wash the rice under cold running water, drain and set
goes better, while raw fish and shellfish calls for less
aside for 30-60 minutes to let it absorb moisture.
sugar and slightly more salt. There is a huge range of
Put the washed rice and 440m water in a heavy-based different formulas and each sushi bar jealously guards
saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Make some slashes their secret recipe. But the most general guide is,
in the kelp to release more flavour and place it on top using the dry weight of rice as the base measure, 10
of the rice then wait for 10-15 minutes before turning per cent of vinegar, 5 per cent of sugar and 1 per cent
on the heat. Cover, bring to the boil over a high heat of salt as shown below.
and, when it just begins to boil, remove and discard the
kelp. Reduce the heat to medium and continue cooking
for 6-7 minutes then reduce the heat to low and simmer Rice Water Ricevinegar Sugar Salt
for 12-15 minutes, or until steam stops escaping. Turn
200g 220m 20m 10g Ya teaspoon
off the heat and let steam, with a tea towel wrapped
around the lid to stop condensation dripping down on 300g 330m 30m 15g Y2-1 teaspoon
the rice, for 10-15 minutes.
400g 440m 40m 20g Ya-1 teaspoon
Moisten a hangiri (see page opposite) or a wide,
500g 550m 50m 25g 1 teaspoon
shallow wooden or plastic tub to stop the rice from
sticking. Spread the hot rice in a thin layer in the (Adjust the amount of sugar or salt as preferred)
tub. Sprinkle sushi vinegar over the rice then, with a
moistened rice paddle or a flat spatula, toss the rice
using cut-and-turn strokes (the lateral motion separates
It is easier to make up the vinegar in large quantities
and coats the grains without bruising or mashing) and
and have it ready. It keeps very well, refrigerated, for up
at the same time cool it quickly by fanning. This is a bit
to 3 months. The table below shows approximately the
tricky to do by yourself, so either get someone else to
amount needed to season cooked rice.
fan the rice or, if you are on your own, alternate tossing
and fanning rather than juggling both. Rice Cooked rice Sushi vinegar

Sushi rice is ready when it has cooled to room 200g 400-420g 3% tablespoons
temperature and the grains are fluffy and glisteningly
300g 600-630g 5 tablespoons
shiny. Try not to over-do this as the rice will become
sticky and heavy. To keep sushi rice from drying out, 400g 800-840g 6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon
cover it with a clean damp cloth until needed, but use it
500g 1000-1050g 8%tablespoons
up on the day it is prepared.

BOWL FOOD 10/7

ASPARAGUS AND SCRAMBLED EGG SCATTERED SUSHI

| like to serve this sushi in late spring when asparagus Steam the asparagus for 3-4 minutes and rinse under
is in season and at its best. cold running water to refresh, then drain. Reserve the
tips for the garnish and chop the spears into small
pieces on the diagonal.
SERVES 4
Mix the eggs with the sugar, soy sauce and salt in a
500g asparagus, trimmed - small mixing bowl. Heat the oil in a non-stick omelette
2 eggs, beaten pan over a medium heat. Pour the egg mixture into the
2 teaspoons sugar pan and cook stirring all the time with either an egg
2 tablespoons light soy sauce whisk or 2 pairs of chopsticks. When the egg begins to
Ya teaspoon salt set, remove from the heat but continue to stir to get a
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil for cooking fluffy consistency.
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
1 tablespoon toasted white sesame seeds Mix the sushi rice with the chopped asparagus and half
1 sheet of nori, crumbled of the scrambled eggs. Transfer to a large serving dish
or divide between 4 individual bowls. Spread the rest
of the eggs over, sprinkle the sesame seeds on top
and arrange the reserved asparagus tips in the centre.
Scatter over the crumbled nori and serve.

SMOKED SALMON SCATTERED SUSHI

Here is an ultra easy sushi recipe — the only cooking Put the sushi rice in a large mixing bowl and sprinkle
involved is the preparation of sushi rice and the rest is with the yuzu juice. Mix well.
an assembly job. You can even use cheaper off-cuts of
Roughly chop the capers and mix into the rice. Then
smoked salmon. If you are using salted capers, rinse
transfer the rice mix to a large serving dish or divide
them thoroughly to rid of saltiness.
between 4 individual dishes.

Cut the salmon into large bite-size pieces and arrange

on top of the rice.
SERVES 4
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107) In a bowl, mix the sake into the salmon roe to loosen it
2 tablespoons yuzu or lime juice and remove the fishy smell. Using a teaspoon, spread
4 tablespoons capers, rinsed the roe over the rice a few drops at a time and serve.
200g smoked salmon
2 teaspoons sake
4 tablespoons salmon roe

Se oe

BOWL FOOD 109

 HOW TO MAKE
THIN OMELETTE

It is helpful if you have a rectangular Japanese

omelette pan but a regular pan (about 18cm diameter)
can be used instead. Just cut off the round edges
once you have finished cooking.

MAKES 8 OMLE T 4 i WY

4 eggs
4 egg yolks
2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons cornflour mixed with 4 teaspoons water
vegetable oil, for cooking

Mix all the ingredients, except the oil, in a bowl and

strain through a sieve.

Heat an 18cm omelette pan over a medium heat

and oil lightly. Wipe away any excess oil with piece
of kitchen paper. Pour in just enough egg mixture to
thinly cover the surface of the pan. When the omelette
surface begins to set, pick it up and turn it over with a
chopstick, or a fork, to cook the other side. Don’t let
the omelette crisp or brown — it should remain golden
yellow.

Repeat to make 7 more omelettes. Keep the round

shape if you are making chakin-zushi (see opposite) or
cut off the round edges to make it a square if you are
making fukusa-zushi (see opposite).

10 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

OMELETTE PURSE SUSHI CHAKIN-ZUSHI | FUKUSA-ZUSHI

Thin omelette makes a colourful edible wrapping

material. Chakin is a small linen hand towel and fukusa
is a large silk handkerchief, both are used in the
traditional tea ceremony. However, in the context of
sushi, chakin-zushi uses a round omelette, which is
gathered and tied on the top while for fukusa-zushi a
square sheet of omelette is used.

FOR CHAKIN-ZUSHI FOR FUKUSA-ZUSHI

MAKES 8 PURSES MAKES 8 PURSES
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107) 400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
8 thin omelettes (see left) 8 thin omelettes (see left), round edges cut off to
8 long sprigs of flat-leaf parsley or coriander make a square
8 long sprigs of flat-leaf parsley or coriander
Place about 2 tablespoonfuls of sushi rice in the middle
of a round omelette. Bring up the edges, gathering Position 2 tablespoonfuls of sushi rice slightly off-centre
them on the top and tie with a sprig of flat-leaf parsley on an omelette square. Bring up the lower corner over
or coriander. Repeat with the remaining omelettes. the filling, then fold in the side corners to meet at the
centre, making a neat rectangular parcel. Tie the parcel
with a sprig of flat-leaf parsley or coriander. Repeat with
the remaining omelette squares.

ee

BOWL FOOD ||
STUFFED SUSHI INARI-ZUSHI

This style of sushi uses cooked ingredients such as Start by preparing the deep-fried tofu pouches,
deep-fried tofu (as here), thin omelettes or cabbage preferably the night before. To make the pouches
leaves as a wrapper for sushi rice. Because it comes in easier to open, put the tofu on a chopping board and
wrapped form, it is portable and easy to eat and ideal roll out with a chopstick until no ‘squish’ noise comes
for packed lunches and picnics. out. Place the tofu on a flat bamboo basket or in a sieve
and pour boiling hot water on both sides to remove
excess oil. Cut in half and carefully prise open, taking
care not to tear. Put all the pouches in a single layer in
MAKES |2 POUCHES
a shallow wide saucepan or a large frying pan, then add
6 aburaage, deep-fried tofu
the dashi and sugar and gently bring to the boil over
500ml dashi of your choice (see page 29)
a medium heat. Simmer for 5-6 minutes. Add the soy
4 tablespoons sugar
sauce and continue to simmer until the cooking juice
4 tablespoons soy sauce
has reduced to about one third. Turn off the heat and
600g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
leave in the saucepan to cool down overnight.
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds
The next day, cook and prepare the sushi rice as
described on page 107.

Put the sesame seeds on a chopping board and roughly

SUGGESTED FILLINGS: Minced sushi ginger with poppy chop — this enhances their nutty flavour.
seeds, chopped ham with diced cucumber, chopped
cooked prawns or seasoned shiitake mushrooms and Mix the rice with the sesame seeds. Put a tofu pouch
carrot. between your hands and squeeze gently to drain. Using
a tablespoon, make a small egg-size ball of the rice and
fill the tofu pouch two-thirds of the way to the top. Fold
the pocket flaps to one side and serve.

PRESSED
SUSHI OSHI-ZUSHI

Before the beginning of the 17th century, when the

addition of rice vinegar became widespread, sushi
making relied on long natural fermentation using
wooden moulds or barrels. Today, oshi-zushi, pressed
sushi or hako-zushi, boxed sushi, of many kinds are
still made as regional delicacies all around Japan.
Opposite is an example of modern adaptation of
oshi-zushi, using an ordinary pastry cutter or a
cooking ring.

112 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PRESSED SUSHI OF SMOKED SALMON

An oshi-bako, a press mould, is a specialist piece of Divide the rice into 4 equal portions. Using a cooking
equipment, available on the internet, but you may not ring or a pastry cutter (about 8cm diameter), stamp out
want to invest in one unless you are going to make 4 circles of smoked salmon. Do not worry about offcuts
sushi regularly. Alternatively, use an ordinary pastry because they will be used to make edible decorations
cutter or a cooking ring. later. Wet the cooking ring (to stop the rice from
sticking) and place it in the centre of an individual plate.

Add a portion of sushi rice and press down firmly

SERVES 4
with the back of a dessert spoon so that the rice is
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
compact and smooth over the top. Spread the wasabi
200g smoked salmon
paste evenly on top and gently lift up the ring. Place a
2 teaspoons wasabi paste smoked salmon circle on top.
4 teaspoons salmon roe
2 teaspoons sake Cut the salmon offcuts into large rose petal shapes,
then lay 3-5 pieces on the chopping board, overlapping
and roll up. Place the salmon rose on the top. Mix the
salmon roe and sake together in a small bowl. Spoon
a teaspoon of the roe mixture, slightly off-centre, over
each rose and serve.

BOWL FOOD 1/3

THIN-ROLL SUSHI
HOSO-MAKI

A thin roll has just a single filling such as tuna, salmon The key to successful sushi-making is to have a clean
or cucumber cut into long thin strips and uses a half organised worktop. So, before you start, have all the
nori sheet. Each roll is cut into 6 bite-size pieces. ingredients and equipment ready.

Fold the sheets of nori in half across the grain and pinch
along the folded edge and pull them apart in halves
MAKES 4 ROLLS (24 PIECES) — you should have 4 rectangular nori sheets. Then put
2 sheets of nori a half nori sheet horizontally shiny-side down on a
280-320g prepared sushi rice (see page 107) bamboo rolling mat. Wet your hands with the vinegar
2 teaspoons wasabi paste water, to keep the rice from sticking to your hands as
150g tuna, cut into pencil-size strips you work. Take a handful of the rice weighing about
pickled ginger and soy sauce, to serve 70-80g and roughly shape it into a log.
a bowl of mild vinegar water, to dip your hands in
Place the rice in the centre of the nori then use your
fingertips to spread it evenly over the nori leaving a
1-1.5cm border along the edge furthest from you.

With your fingertips, press and make a groove along

WASABI IN SUSHI the centre of the rice and smear about a half teaspoon

Wasabi, a native Japanese perennial semi-aquatic

of wasabi paste along. Place a tuna strip in the wasabi
plant, is one of the strongest seasoning ingredients.
groove.
Indeed, in sushi language wasabi is otherwise called To roll, lift up the edge of the mat closest to you with
namida, tears. Its root is grated to produce pungent your thumbs and index fingers while keeping the filling
fragrant.pale green paste and is widely used in sushi in place with your middle and third fingers, and roll the
and sashimi. When a wasabi root is grated, an organic mat over the tuna filling so that the top edge of the
compound called allyl isothiocyanate is produced which nori meets the edge of the rice. You should be able to
is responsible for the characteristic pungent taste and see the uncovered nori strip. Lift the edge of the mat
is a natural disinfectant. Wasabi has natural sterilising slightly and push the roll away from you so that the
antibacterial effects when used with raw fish and so uncovered strip of nori seals the roll. Gently but firmly
stops it from getting spoilt. Used correctly, wasabi press the mat along the length of the roll using both
helps to stimulate appetite, eliminate fishy smells and hands to evenly shape it.
enhance sushi’s delicate flavour and taste.
Push in any stray grains of rice to tidy the ends. Set it
aside in a cool place (but not in the refrigerator) while
you make the remaining rolls.

To cut, moisten a sharp kitchen knife with vinegar water,

to prevent it from sticking. Cut each roll in the middle.
Put the two halves next to each other and cut them
twice to make 6 equal bite-size pieces.

To serve, transfer onto a large platter or individual

serving plates and serve with sushi-pickled ginger and
soy sauce on the side for dipping.

114. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

mA
ROLLED SUSHI HAND-ROLLED SUSHI
MAKI-ZUSHI TEMAKI-ZUSHI

Maki-zushi, rolled sushi, is the generic name for all Hand-rolls are quick and easy to make and do not
sushi formed into cylindrical shapes wrapped in nori or require any specialist equipment.
other materials. Under this broad category there are
several different types. The easiest, temaki, hand-rolls,
are cornet shape containing a single or multiple fillings
MAKES 8 HAND-ROLLS
and as the name implies, it is made with your hands
4 sheets of nori, halved
and requires no rolling mat. Hoso-maki, thin roll, uses
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
a half sheet of nori and contains a single filling while
4 teaspoons wasabi paste
futo-maki, thick roll, is more substantial typically with
200g fish of your choice, cut into 6—-7cm long, pencil-
4-5 fillings and a whole sheet of nori. Ura-maki, inside-
size strips
out roll, is the most modern type and has nori-lined
200g vegetables such as cucumber, avocado, blanched
rice on the outside with 2-3 core fillings. All rolled
carrot, green beans, cut into 6—7cm long thin strips,
sushi except hand-roll uses a bamboo rolling mat
rocket or mustard cress
to make.

Hold a piece of halved rectangular nori in your left

hand. Put a generous tablespoontul of rice on the
top left corner of the nori and flatten it slightly. Dab a
little amount of wasabi paste on the rice. Arrange your
choice of fillings on top of the rice so that they point
diagonally to the top left corner of the nori. Then bring
the bottom left hand corner of the nori towards the
top side centre, wrapping it around the rice and fillings
forming a cornet. Repeat to make 8 rolls in total.

16 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

THICK-ROLL SUSHI
FUTO-MAKI

Also called date-maki, literally ‘dandy’ roll, because of cleaning and moistening the knife before each cut.
its colourful fillings, a thick roll typically contains 4-5 Arrange on a platter, cut side up to show off the centre,
cooked ingredients. The rolling technique is the same with the sushi pickled ginger as a garnish.
as in thin rolls.
HOW TO PREPARE DRIED GOURD STRIPS
Wash 20g kampy6 in cold water with a scrubbing
action. Add 2 tablespoons of salt and continue to rub in
MAKES 2 ROLLS (16 SLICES) the water until soft. Rinse and soak in fresh water for 2-3
2 sheets of nori hours. Drain and put in a saucepan with enough water
400g prepared sushi rice (see page 107) to cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Add 500m
1 carrot, peeled, cut into thick strips and steamed dashi with 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons soy
20g green beans, trimmed and lightly steamed sauce and bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes
20g prepared shiitake mushroom slices (see below) or until the strips turn golden yellow. Allow to cool in
Ya prepared Dashi-rolled Omelette, cut into 1 x 20cm the stock before cutting to desired lengths.
long strips (see page 170)
HOW TO PREPARE DRIED SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
20g prepared kampy6, dried gourd, cut into 20cm
lengths (see below) Soak 8 dried shiitake mushrooms in just enough warm
pickled ginger, to garnish water to cover for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the
a bowl of mild vinegar water, to dip your hands in liquid, and cut off and discard the stems. Put the liquid,
mushrooms, 2 tablespoons mirin, 3 tablespoons sugar
and 2 tablespoons soy sauce in a saucepan. Bring to
Place a sheet of nori shiny side down along the edge of the boil over a medium heat, reduce the heat and
your rolling mat. Moisten your hands with the vinegar simmer for 20-30 minutes, or until the liquid has almost
water, form two log shapes with half the rice and put disappeared. Let the mushrooms cool in the saucepan,
them in the centre of the nori. Spread the rice evenly then squeeze to drain then cut into thin slices.
across the whole width of the nori, leaving a 4cm border
of the sheet furthest from you uncovered.

Lay half the carrot strips across the centre of the rice,
followed by half the beans and half the mushrooms on
either side. Arrange half the omelette strips and half the
kampyo on either side of the beans and mushrooms.

To roll, lift up the edge of the mat closest to you with

your thumbs and index fingers, keeping the filling in
place with your middle and third fingers, and roll the
mat over so that the top edge of the nori meets the
edge of the rice. Lift the edge of the mat slightly and
push the roll away from you so that the uncovered strip
of nori seals the roll. Gently but firmly press along the
length of the roll using both hands to evenly shape it.

Moisten a sharp knife with the vinegar water, and cut

each roll in half, then each half into 4 equal slices,

BOWL FOOD 1/7

TT
INSIDE-OUT-ROLL SUSHI
URA-MAKI

Ura-maki is also sometimes known as Californian rolls. Start by lining your bamboo rolling mat with cling film
They were first created by an American-born Japanese so that rice will not stick on the mat.
chef in the early 1970s to accommodate squeamish
American diners who were unsure about raw fish. Place a half sheet of nori on the mat. Dip your hands
in the vinegar water to keep the rice from sticking,
Ura-maki is deceptively easier to make than the
then take a large handful of the rice, weighing about
traditional nori rolls. It is also more suited to advance
100-120g, and place it in the middle of the nori. Wet
preparations because the crispness of the nori is not
your fingers again and spread the rice evenly to cover
the key element as in the case of thin and thick rolls.
the entire surface of nori and pat it down slightly. Pick
up the rice-covered nori and turn it over on the mat.

MAKES 4 ROLLS (24 PIECES)

Mix the mayonnaise and wasabi paste together in a
2 sheets of nori, halved small bowl.
400-480g prepared sushi rice (see page 107) Lay one strip of tuna, a line of green beans and a strip
2 teaspoons wasabi paste of omelette along the centre of the nori on top of the
150g tuna, cut into 4 pencil-size strips wasabi. (Don't worry if some fillings stick out of the
20g green beans, trimmed and lightly steamed edges as it looks attractive when served.) To roll, lift up
Ya prepared Dashi-rolled Omelette, cut into 4 20cm the nearest edge of the mat to you with your thumbs
long strips (see page 170) and index fingers while holding the fillings in place with
4 tablespoons toasted white or black sesame seeds the rest of your fingers. Then start rolling to join the 2
pickled ginger and soy sauce, to serve edges rice-nori together. Lift up the front edge of the
a bowl of mild vinegar water, to dip your hands in mat and push the roll away from you. Recover the roll
with the mat and gently squeeze to shape into a round
SUGGESTED FILLINGS: White crabmeat with avocado and or square shape.
cucumber strips, salmon with cucumber strips and finely On a large flat plate, spread 1 tablespoon of sesame
chopped spring onion, cooked prawns with mustard seeds as evenly as possible then roll the sushi roll in
cress and omelet strips. the seeds to coat all over. Set aside while you make the
remaining rolls.

To cut, place a sushi roll on a chopping board, moisten

a sharp kitchen knife with the vinegar water and cut the
roll in half. Place the 2 halves next to each other, clean
and moisten the knifé, and cut them twice to give
6 equal bite-size pieces.

To serve, transfer the cut pieces onto a platter or

individual plates, arrange the pieces showing the
cut-side up. Serve with a mound of sushi pickled
ginger and soy dipping sauce.

Pare

BOWL FOOD 1I9

HANDBALL-SUSHI
TEV ARIZ US ll

Nigiri-zushi, hand-squeezed sushi is the most difficult

to master — it is not just a case of making small rice
nuggets and putting slices of raw fish on top. It is
an art that takes years of apprenticeship and out of
respect, in Japan people tend not make this type
of sushi at home but go to sushi bars. But do not
be disappointed because there is a quick and easy
version of nigiri-zushi called temari-zushi, literally
handball-sushi. It is the nearest thing to nigiri-zushi
without undergoing years of training and all you need
is a plain cotton handkerchief or cling film.

MAKES 20 BALLS
600g prepared sushi rice (see page 107)
30g smoked salmon, cut into 10 4cm square pieces
10 cooked shelled prawns
2-3 Thin Omeletes, cut into 10 4cm square pieces (see
page 110)
a tube of wasabi paste
2 tablespoons of salmon roe, mixed with 2 teaspoons
of sake
1-2 tablespoons cress
pickled ginger and soy sauce, to serve Unwrap the ball and place it on a chopping board,
a bowl of mild vinegar water, to dip your hands in cover with another clean damp cloth while you make 9
more salmon balls. Next, repeat to make 10 prawn balls
Divide the sushi rice into 3 equal portions — 200g for and 10 omelette balls.
the smoked salmon balls, 200g for the prawn balls and
Squeeze a pinhead of wasabi paste in the centre of
200g for the omelette balls.
salmon squares and crescent of prawns and put a few
Moisten a clean cotton handkerchief or a 15cm square salmon roe on top. For the omelette balls, garnish with
of cling film with the vinegar water and hold it open on a pinch of cress.
your left hand. Place a piece of smoked salmon in the
To serve arrange the balls either on a large platter or
middle. Wet a tablespoon in the vinegar water and take
on 4 individual serving with a mound of pickled sushi
out a generous spoonful of the rice (weighing about
ginger and soy dipping sauce on the side.
20g) then put on top of the salmon. Bring the corners
of the handkerchief towards the middle over the rice, If you are making this in advance (up to 3 hours), keep
gather and twist to shape and compact the rice into a the balls covered with a clean damp cloth or cling film
small ball. until ready to serve.

120 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

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MAINS
MAIN COURSES SHUSAI| SALT-GRILLED HORSE
MACKEREL
AJ| NO SHIO-YAKI!
A typical Japanese family meal is ichi-jUsan-sai, —Y+
=, ‘one soup three dishes’. That is, a soup which
is usually miso soup and then three dishes normally
Japanese like seeing a whole fish on a plate. This is
consisting of sashimi, a grilled dish and a simmered
because fish, especially small-size ones, cook better
dish. These ‘three dishes’ are the equivalent of the
on the bone.
Western main course dishes, which give character
to the whole meal as well as in terms of nutrition
provides protein. These soup and three dishes are
always served with rice and pickles. SERVES 4
50g salt
On more elaborate meals, other dishes such as
4 x 250-300g whole horse mackerel
steamed or deep-fried dishes maybe added to
8 teaspoons sea salt
the table. This basic format of three dishes is not
vegetable oil, for greasing
dissimilar to that of a typical Western main course
200g daikon, giant white radish, grated, to serve
- fish or meat with potatoes and vegetables. The
4 lemon wedges, to serve
only difference is that in the West all three are served
on the same large plate, instead of in small separate
dishes or bowls as they are in Japan. No Japanese, In a large bowl, mix 2 litres of cold water with 50g of salt
however humble, would dream of serving food — this is for washing the fish.
on just any old dish without giving some thought
to presentation and composition. Adapting the Start by removing the fish’s prickly thorn-like scale along
Japanese way of serving food in separate dishes to its sides, then remove the rest of the scales and gut —
the Western way of presenting a main course, may you may ask your fishmonger to do this. Wash off any
that be a piece of meat or fish with two or three traces of blood in the salt water then pat dry with kitchen
vegetables on the same plate, is not as outrageously paper.
un-Japanese as it may sound. As long as you Make 2-3 shallow diagonal incisions on both sides.
follow the three basic principles of presentation: Sprinkle a teaspoonful of sea salt evenly all over each
present food in three dimensional forms as if you fish, use another teaspoonful to coat the fins for
are creating a landscape, try emulating the natural cosmetic effects and set aside for about 10 minutes.
beauty of asymmetry, and add a touch of seasonality
on the plate, then the main points have been taken Meanwhile preheat the grill to the highest setting.
into account. Lightly oil the grill rack and return to the grill to heat.

Place the fish on the rack with the head facing left and
grill for 8-10 minutes. Carefully turn the fish over and
continue grilling for another 4-5 minutes.

Serve the fish with the head facing left on individual

plates with a small mound of grated radish and a lemon
wedge on the bottom right hand corner of the plate.

COOK’S TIP
Try this with other smaller-sized fish such as sardines,
small sea bream or red mullet.

124 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SALT-GRILLED SEA BASS SUZUKI NO SHIO-YAKI!

Shio-yaki, is literally salt-grilling where a sprinkling To prepare the fish, make 2-3 shallow diagonal slits
of salt is applied to extract moisture before grilling. on the skin side of each fillet — these incisions are
The amount of salt depends on the thickness of the decorative as well as to help the salt penetrate. Place
flesh and skin type but the general rule is about 2 the fillets on a chopping board, then holding your hand
per cent of the weight of fish. Ever-conscious of how about 30cm above the fish, sprinkle salt evenly on both
food should look on a plate, for the Japanese the side sides. Set aside for 15-20 minutes.
of the food that faces up is cooked first in a pan, or
Meanwhile, preheat the grill to the highest setting.
second if it is grilled. The fish should not be turned
Lightly oil the grill rack then return to the grill to heat.
more than once during cooking.
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and place on the
rack, skin side down and grill for about 5 minutes — the
flesh will begin to bead with pinkish sweat. Turn over
SERVES 4
and continue grilling for another 2-3 minutes or until
4 x 200g sea bass fillets
the skin becomes crisp and golden brown.
4 teaspoons sea salt
vegetable oil, for greasing Remove from the grill. Cut each fillet into 2 halves,
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, to serve arrange the 2 pieces skin side up and slightly
overlapping each other, and serve with a lemon wedge
on the side.

COOK’S TIP
Salt-grilling is one of the most basic ways to cook fish
and almost any type can be cooked in this way. Because
of its simplicity, there is no disguising the fish's own
taste and flavour, so make sure that fish you are
cooking is very, very fresh.

ee
MAIN COURSES 125
YELLOWTAIL TERIYAKI
BURI NO TERIYAKI

Teriyaki literally means shiny grill and it is a tasty Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a shallow dish.
and attractive way to cook fish. It’s particularly Add the fish and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes,
suitable for meaty oily fish such as salmon, tuna, turning occasionally.
yellowtail, swordfish or bonito.
Prepare the radishes. With a small knife, make 3-4
shallow incisions as if you are peeling the radishes.
Transfer to soak in a bowl of cold water — the cuts will
SERVES 4 open like flower buds.

FOR THE TERIYAKI SAUCE Remove the fish from its marinade and pat dry,
4 tablespoons soy sauce reserving the sauce. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in
4 tablespoons mirin a large frying pan over a medium heat and quickly
1 tablespoon sugar sear both sides of the fish then remove as much oil as
2 tablespoons sake possible using scrunched kitchen paper. Reduce the
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES
heat to low, pour in the reserved sauce and continue
8 radishes to cook until the sauce has reduced to about a
4 x 150-200g yellowtail fillets tablespoonful while turning the fish over a few times.
3 teaspoons vegetable oil Meanwhile, in a separate frying pan heat the remaining
2 yellow or orange peppers, deseeded and cut oil and cook the peppers for 2-3 minutes, season with
into 8 strips salt and pepper. Drain the radishes.
2 green peppers, deseeded and cut into 8 strips
salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve, arrange the peppers on the top left hand side
of 4 individual plates and add 2 radish buds on the top
right side. Place the fish below the vegetables, drizzle a
few drops of the sauce over and serve.

VARIATION
You can also add grated fresh ginger, garlic purée or
chilli flakes to the teriyaki sauce.

126 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PLAICE IN PARCEL TUNA STEAK WITH
HIRAME NO HOIRU-YAKI BUTTER SOY :
MAGURO NO SUTEKI|

Cooking fish wrapped in foil is a gentle, forgiving

method and no washing up! All the flavours are This must be one of the fastest fish recipes. Tuna
enveloped until the diner opens the parcel. This should not be overcooked and still be pink in
is a particularly suitable way of cooking delicately the centre.
flavoured fish.

SERVES4
SERVES 4 4 tuna steaks, weighing 150-175g each
4 x 200g plaice or sole fillets 4 tablespoons plain flour
2 teaspoons sea salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
butter, for greasing 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 pak choi, halved lengthways 60g unsalted butter
4 shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded 200m! sake
4 thick lemon slices 2 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons sake 12 sugar snap peas or mangetout
8 baby sweetcorn
Start by salting the fish and leaving it to stand for salt
20-30 minutes.
Lightly brush the fish with the flour using a pastry brush.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6.
Butter the centre of four 30cm foil squares. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat
and fry the garlic to flavour the oil. When the garlic has
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and place on the
turned crisp and golden brown remove it with a slotted
buttered part of the foil square. Put the pak choi and
spoon and set aside on a sheet of kitchen paper to
shiitake next to the fish, lemon on top and drizzle
drain.
sake over the arrangement. Fold the foil into a parcel
allowing as much head room as possible and ensure Increase the heat to almost smoking hot and quickly
to seal the ends tightly. Place the parcels on a large sear both sides of the fish (do not overcook), then
baking tray and cook in the oven for 12-15 minutes. remove from the pan and keep warm. Reduce the
heat and soak up all the oil with scrunched kitchen
Put the parcels on individual plates, bring to the table
paper and discard. Melt the butter in the pan and
and let each diner open their parcel.
add the sake and soy sauce and allow to bubble
COOK’S TIP and reduce slightly.
This method can be adapted for almost any white flesh
Meanwhile, steam the vegetables for 2-3 minutes and
fish, or scallops.
sprinkle salt over to keep the colour fresh.

Put the fish on warmed individual plates, arrange the

vegetables on the side, spoon a generous amount of
the sauce over the fish, add the garlic chips on top and
serve immediately.

128 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PAN-SEARED SALMON IN NANBAN-STYLE
SAKE NO NANBAN-YAK!

Nanban, translates as southern barbarians and applies First sprinkle 2 teaspoons of salt evenly over a chopping
to the Portuguese and Spanish or things they brought board, place the fish, skin side down, then sprinkle the
via Indochina. In the Japanese cooking context, it rest of salt on the flesh side and leave to stand for
refers to newly introduced cooking methods of using 20-30 minutes.
oil and butter and ingredients such as onion and chilli.
Meanwhile, quarter the turnips into wedges, and trim
the leeks to 6-8cm lengths. Steam the vegetables and
keep warm.
SERVES 4
4 x 100g salmon fillets Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in
4 teaspoons sea salt a large frying pan and fry the fish skin side for 5-6
2 baby turnips, trimmed
minutes, flip and fry the other side for a further 3-4
minutes. Soak up any oil in the pan with scrunched
8 baby leeks
kitchen paper and discard, then add the butter to
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
the pan and coat the salmon with the melted butter.
30g unsalted butter
Remove the fish to individual plates and keep warm.
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon mirin Add all the remaining ingredients, except the lemon,
2 tablespoons soy sauce to the pan and stir over a high heat for 2-3 minutes.
1 onion, very finely chopped Spoon the sauce generously over the salmon, arrange
1 large red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped the turnip wedges at the bottom right corner of the
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, to serve salmon, place the leeks diagonally over the fish and
garnish with the lemon quarters. Serve immediately.

Ee EEE

MAIN COURSES 129

GRILLED TUNA IN RED MISO
MAGURO NO AKA-MISO YAKI

Miso paste comes in a variety of colours, ranging from Start by salting the fish and leaving to stand for
light cream like Saiky6 miso used in black cod (see 20-30 minutes.
opposite) to milk-chocolate brown and dark reddish
Meanwhile, mix all the marinade ingredients together.
brown. The colour is a good indication of flavour
and texture — the darker the colour, the saltier and Rinse the fish and pat‘dry with kitchen paper. Put
the stronger the taste and flavour and the harder half the miso mixture in a flat-based ceramic or glass
and dryer the texture. Red miso is a generic term for container and lay the fish steaks in a single layer on
darker coloured paste and Hacch6é miso from Nagoya top, then spread the rest of the miso over. Cover the
is the most famous. Red miso, with its robust stronger container and refrigerate for 6-8 hours or overnight.
flavour, is particularly suitable for marinating strong
Preheat the oven to 190°C/gas mark 5 and oil the grill
tasting dark coloured fish such as tuna, salmon, bonito
rack. Take the fish out of the marinade and carefully
or mackerel.
scrape off all the miso with your fingers or a chopstick.

Put the fish on the lightly oiled rack, rest over a baking
SERVES 4
tray and place in the centre of the oven to cook for 5-6
minutes on each side taking care to not to let it burn —
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES
cover the edges with foil if necessary.
4 x 150-175g tuna steaks
2 teaspoons sea salt Meanwhile, lightly drain the grated radish and combine
vegetable oil, for greasing in a bowl with the onion, ginger and chives.
200g grated daikon, giant white radish To serve, place the tuna steaks in the centre of
2 tablespoons grated red onion 4 individual serving plates, put a portion of the radish
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger mixture in a small mound at the side of the fish with
4 teaspoons finely chopped chives 2 tomato halves.
4 baby vine tomatoes, cut in half

FOR THE MISO MARINADE

600g red or dark-coloured miso
6 tablespoons sake
3 tablespoons mirin

130 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

BLACK COD
TARA NO SAIKYO-MISO YAK!

Saiky6-miso is a famous white miso from Kyoto, which Start by sprinkling the sea salt all over the fish and
has a delicate mellow sweetness and creamy texture. set aside for 20-30 minutes — this draws out liquid
This marinade is best suited to white-fleshed fish from the fish making it easier for the miso marinade
such as cod, sea bream, sea bass or John Dory. The to be absorbed.
name, ‘black cod’ is rather confusing because it is
also a common name for Anoplopoma fimbria — which Meanwhile, mix all the marinade ingredients in a bowl
despite the name does not belong to the cod family — and put half in a large flat-based ceramic or glass
as well as a name of the dish. container. Pat the fish dry and arrange in a single layer
on the marinade. Cover with the rest of the miso mix
and refrigerate for 6-8 hours or overnight.

SERVES 4 Preheat the oven to 190°C/gas mark 5 and oil the grill
rack. Take the fish out of the marinade and carefully
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES
scrape off all the miso with your fingers or a chopstick.
4 teaspoons sea salt
The fish should feel a little firmer.
4 x 150-175g cod fillets, skin on
vegetable oil, for greasing Put the fish, skin side down, on the oiled rack and rest
100g sprouting broccoli, trimmed over a baking tray. Place in the centre of the oven for
Y2 teaspoon salt 6-8 minutes then turn over and cook for a further 2-3
2 tablespoons red or pink pickled ginger, drained minutes, taking care not to let it burn — cover with a
FOR THE MISO MARINADE
piece of cooking foil if necessary.
600g Saiky6 miso or white miso Meanwhile, lightly steam the broccoli for 2-3 minutes
6 tablespoons sake and sprinkle the salt over to keep the colour fresh.
1¥2 tablespoon mirin
Remove the fish from the oven. Place the fish fillets
in the centre of 4 individual serving plates, arrange
a portion of broccoli at the top left corner, put %
tablespoon of the ginger on the top of the fish and
serve.

COOK’S TIPS
The miso marinade can be reused 2-3 times. Soak up
any excess liquid which came out of fish with kitchen
paper before another use.

If you cannot find white miso, use a lighter colour

variety but use equal amount of mirin to sake, or add
some sugar to make the marinade sweeter.

MAIN COURSES !3!

PAN-FRIED SCALLOPS WITH BROCCOLI
HOTATE TO BUROKKORT NO ITAME-MONO

Itame-mono is difficult to translate — pan-frying, Slice the scallops in half horizontally and sprinkle the
shallow-frying, sautéing, or even stir-frying — the salt over, leave to stand for 10-15 minutes.
method is never listed separately in Japanese
Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large frying
cookbooks. This is because in reality, itame-mono
pan or wok over a high heat, add the broccoli and toss
dishes are more like a Japanese version of Chinese
then add 400ml water. Bring to the boil for 1-2 minutes,
stir-fry. It is arguably the easiest and quickest cooking
drain and keep the broccoli warm.
method.
Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper. Heat another
tablespoon of oil over a medium heat and add the
SERVES 4 eggs. Use chopsticks to stir constantly for 3-5 minutes
400g scallops, without roe to make scrambled eggs. Remove and keep warm.
Ya teaspoon salt
Spread the scallops over kitchen paper and pat dry.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Dust with the flour. Heat the remaining oil in the same
400g sprouting broccoli, trimmed
pan over a high heat and quickly sear the scallops on
2 eggs, lightly beaten
both sides. Add the broccoli and scrambled eggs to
2 tablespoons plain flour
the scallops and toss to mix. Pour in the sake and soy
4 tablespoons sake
sauce, stir and bring to the boil for a minute then adjust
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
the seasoning with salt and pepper. Divide between
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 dishes and serve.

COOK’S TIP
Try this recipe with shelled tiger prawns in place of the
scallops.

132 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SIMMERING
NI-MONO

Pre-historic Japanese hunter-gatherers first discovered over sugar to add sweetness, though it is about half as
how to cook by simply putting raw food on a fire. Then sweet. In the context of simmering, soy sauce is used
some 15,000 years ago they expanded their cooking for its aroma and taste rather than the saltiness. Use all-
repertoire to simmering. By putting food in a vessel purpose dark soy sauce except when it is important to
with water or some liquid and letting this bubble away keep the natural colouring of solid ingredients such as
on fire, simmering is a simple technique suitable for white-coloured fish or green vegetables. Miso is almost
almost every kind of food and therefore has been always added last because its aroma is lost if heated for
universally practised ever since. too long.

In the context of Japanese cooking, simmering, 4, WATCHFUL HEAT ADJUSTMENT Normally, in ni-mono,
ni-mono has developed into important category. In things are cooked over a high heat until the cooking
a large Japanese restaurant, the chef in charge of liquid comes to the boil then the heat is reduced to
the ni-mono section is second in command after the a low simmer. However, white-fleshed fish is cooked
head chef as this requires a multitude of skills and quickly over a high heat in a subtly flavoured cooking
judgement: choosing ingredients and putting them liquid to bring out its natural flavour. In contrast, strong
together, cutting, timing, seasoning and presentation. flavoured dark-fleshed fish require slow, longer cooking
Yet, fear not, ni-mono is also the most home-friendly in strongly seasoned liquid.
type of cooking and you can make delicious, satisfying
One indispensable piece of equipment for ni-mono is
dishes so long as you follow 4 basic rules:
otoshi-buta, literally ‘drop-lid’. It is made of cypress or
|. DO NOT SKIMP ON PREPARATION Parboil harder root cedar wood, with an edge bevelled from the bottom
vegetables. Green vegetables need to be blanched and a single shallow fin-like strip across the top that
and refreshed in cold water to retain their colour. acts as handle. Usually an otoshi-buta is about 1.5cm
Fish needs to be carefully filleted and salted prior to smaller than the diameter of the saucepan in which
cooking. it is used. It floats on the surface, acting not only to
keep solids submerged in the cooking liquid, thereby
2. CHOOSE YOUR POTS CAREFULLY Use heavy-based
ensuring even cooking, but also to stop ingredients
pans that distribute heat gently and evenly. The size
from rolling and tumbling around while cooking so
is determined by the nature and amount of food: use
that they keep their shape. In addition, the drop-lid
a deep saucepan which holds an ample amount of
increases the penetration of seasonings into the solid
liquid for ingredients that need long cooking but use
and reduces heat loss from the liquid surface, hence
a shallow pan or frying pan for ingredients that only
speeding up the cooking time. It is an invaluable tool
take a few minutes in a little cooking liquid. A shallow
but finding them outside Japan may be problematic as
pan is also better suited for fragile ingredients such as
they are inexpensive, giving merchants little incentive
delicate fish that can crumble easily.
to stock and sell them. My suggestion is to look around
3. FOLLOW THE CORRECT ORDER OF SEASONING Generally Asian stores, impose on friends who are visiting Japan
speaking, sweetness is applied before saltiness. The or search the internet — by typing in ‘pig cooking lid’
most commonly used seasonings in the order of which and you will find a cheerful silicon lid with a piggy face
they are added into the cooking stock are sake, mirin (a word-play on ‘buta’ a homonym of both a lid and a
(or sugar) salt, soy sauce and miso. Sake tenderises pig). Alternatively, use an appropriately-sized flat metal
and helps to rid of unwanted odour. Mirin is preferred lid or make a circle with vent holes in the middle with
cooking foil or baking parchment.

134. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SIMMERED COD
TARA NO ASSARI-NI

In a culinary context, the Japanese word assari, plain Start by sprinkling the salt all over the fish. Leave to
or bland, does not translate well. Perhaps because stand for 20-30 minutes.
the Japanese prefer each ingredient’s simple natural
flavour over laboured complex tastes. This is an Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add
elegant yet satisfying dish in which each ingredient’s the vegetables and parboil for 1 minute. Remove with a
natural flavour is brought together in a simple broth. slotted spoon and set aside.
The key to the dish is prior salting and parboiling and Using the same water, submerge the fish fillets, one
only brief simmering. Try this recipe with any fresh at a time, until they turn white. Drain and immediately
white-flesh fish such as sea bream, sea bass or red transfer to a bowl of iced water then drain again.
mullet.
Lay the kelp at the bottom of a large saucepan and
gently place the fish, vegetables and tofu on top
without overlapping each other. Add 1.2 litres of water,
SERVES 4
the sake and soy sauce, bring to the boil over a high
4 teaspoons fine sea salt
heat then immediately reduce the heat to simmer for
4 x 125-150g cod fillets
1-2 minutes.
8 baby leeks, cut into 4cm lengths
12 fine green beans, trimmed To serve, carefully arrange each fillet on the middle
4 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed of 4 individual dishes, place the tofu on the left and
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp the vegetables next to them. Garnish with a sprig of
200g firm cotton tofu, cut into 4 blocks watercress and pour a tablespoon of the broth on top.
80ml sake
80ml light soy sauce
a few sprigs of watercress, to garnish

NOTE ON SAKE
Sake is Japan’s national alcoholic beverage and Although there are some ‘cooking sakes’ available in
arguably the best drink to accompany Japanese food. Japanese stores, | use inexpensive drinking sake.
It also ranks among the ‘big four’ seasoning ingredients In a strict sense, sake's alcohol should be burnt off
along with dashi, soy sauce and miso. These ingredients before use — just pour a few cups of sake into a
feature in nearly every Japanese dish, either singularly saucepan and heat very gently then ignite. But if you
or in a combination. are in a hurry, just use directly from the bottle.
In cooking, sake works as a food tenderiser due to its Sake keeps for a few month after opening. Store ina
amino acid content. It also suppresses saltiness, helps cool dark place away from sunlight.
to remove any overwhelming fishy taste or odor. Small
amounts of sake is often added to delicate flavoured
dishes to give it more rounded depths.

Pee
te
MAIN COURSES 135
SIMMERED SQUID WITH SPINACH
IKA TO HORENSO NO NI-MONO

Here is a quick and easy recipe for squid, which is Cut the body part of the squid into 1cm thick rings and
best suited to fast cooking. the tentacles into 5—6cm lengths.

Put all ingredients for the simmering broth into

a saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium
SERVES 4
heat. Add the squid, cook for 1-2 minutes only then
400g squid, cleaned immediately remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl.
500g baby spinach leaves Add the spinach to the same pan, quickly stir and allow
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds to.simmer for 3-4 minutes. Return the squid to the pan,
FOR THE SIMMERING BROTH stir and immediately turn off the heat.
20g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
Spread the sesame seeds on a dry chopping board
1 red chilli, finely chopped
and roughly chop — chopping draws out flavour without
4 tablespoons sake
drawing out oil as in the case of grinding.
4 tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon sugar To serve, divide the squid mixture between 4 individual
4 tablespoons soy sauce dishes and sprinkle the chopped sesame seeds on top.

136 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SIMMERED PRAWN-BALLS AND TURNIPS
EB] TO KABU NO NI-MONO

This is a comforting dish yet full of taste and flavour

from both prawns and turnips.

SERVES 4
4 medium-size turnips, weighing about 300g in total
800ml dashi of your choice (see page 29)
4 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons mirin
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
500g fresh prawns, shells removed
Ya teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
6 teaspoons cornflour
1 egg white
a generous pinch of cress, to garnish

Peel and cut the turnips into quarters, then soak in a Take the turnips out of the dashi using a slotted spoon
bowl of cold water for 10-15 minutes. Put the turnips in and keep warm. Add the prawn balls to the simmering
a saucepan with the dashi and bring to the boil over a dashi, increase the heat to medium and cook for 5-6
medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of sake, the mirin and minutes. In a small bowl, mix the remaining cornflour
soy sauce. Cover the turnips with a drop-lid (see page with 1 tablespoon water. Gently stir the cornflour
134), reduce the heat to low and simmer for mixture into the broth and simmer for 1 minute to
10-12 minutes. thicken before turning off the heat.

Meanwhile, roughly chop the prawns. Place in a bowl Serve 4 turnip quarters and 5 prawn balls per person in
with the remaining sake, the salt, ginger, 4 teaspoons individual dishes with the simmering sauce and garnish
of cornflour and the egg white, stir well to combine. with the cress.
Form the mixture into about 20 ping-pong size balls.
Set aside.

ane ee
MAIN COURSES 137
SARDINES IN GINGER-VINEGAR
IWASHI NO SHOGA-NI

This is a clever use of vinegar and ginger — together Start by washing the fish in cold water, use your fingers
they take away sardine’s fishy odour, tenderise the or a toothbrush to clean them thoroughly of all trace of
flesh and add delicious depth of flavour. Vinegar also blood inside and out, then pat dry with kitchen paper.
softens fish bone, so you can eat the whole thing.
Put all the broth ingredients in a large saucepan and
bring to the boil over a high heat. Add the fish to the
saucepan in a single layer, scatter the ginger strips
SERVES 4 on top and place the chillies among them. Place a
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES moistened drop-lid (see page 134) on top, reduce the
8 fresh sardines, gutted and heads removed heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes.
40g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
While cooking, tilt the pan and ladle the broth all over
2 fresh or dried red chillies
the fish as if you were basting. Repeat this 2-3 times to
4 tablespoons dried wakame seaweed ensure the fish is covered with the broth.
2 spring onions, finely chopped on the diagonal
About 10 minutes before the fish is done, put the
FOR THE SIMMERING BROTH
seaweed in a bowl and cover with cold water. Leave for
200ml rice vinegar
10 minutes to soften, then drain.
60m! sake
4 tablespoons mirin To serve, carefully lift out 2 sardines with a slotted
4 tablespoons sugar spoon to individual dishes. Put a portion of drained
120ml soy sauce seaweed at the side, garnish with the finely chopped
spring onion on top.

COOK'S TIP
As sardines are such healthy and sustainable fish, and
this recipe keeps for a few days, refrigerated, | often
make a large pot of this and serve at room temperature
with a green salad.

MAIN COURSES 139

YELLOWTAIL WITH GIANT WHITE RADISH
BURI-DAIKON

This is a home-cooking classic for winter when both Start by sprinkling the fish all over with salt. Leave to
yellowtail and daikon, giant white radish, are in stand for 20-30 minutes.
season. Choose daikon with smooth unblemished skin
Meanwhile, peel and cut the radish into 2cm thick
that feels dense and heavy.
cylinder chunks or if large, cut into half-moon pieces.
With a small knife, cut around the sharp angle edge
of each radish piece — this is a traditional vegetable
SERVES 4 preparation cut, which helps to keep the shape during
4 teaspoons sea salt cooking (see page 225).
4 yellowtail steaks, about 125-150g each
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil over a high
600g daikon, giant white radish
heat. Add the radish and simmer over a medium heat
60ml sake
for 15-20 minutes, then drain.
40g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
a few sprigs of watercress or rocket, to garnish Bring another saucepan of water to the boil then add
Ya lemon peel, thinly sliced, to garnish the fish and let the water return to the boil again for 1-2
FOR THE SIMMERING BROTH minutes. Drain and plunge the fish into a bowl of iced
1 tablespoon mirin water and wash off all traces of blood. Drain again.
2 tablespoons sugar Put the fish and radish in a large saucepan with 300m!
100ml soy sauce water, the sake and half the ginger, bring to the boil
over a high heat, skimming off any scum that floats to
the surface. Reduce the heat to low, place a drop-lid
(see page 134) on top and simmer for 7-8 minutes.

Add all the broth ingredients and continue to simmer

for 15-18 minutes, or until the broth has been reduced
by one-third.

To serve, transfer the fish and radish into shallow

individual dishes, spoon on some broth, then add a
portion of the remaining ginger and garnish with a sprig
or two of watercress and lemon peel slices.

140 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

MACKEREL IN MISO
SABA NO MISO-NI

Here, a combination of mackerel and miso results in Cut each fillet into 3 or 4 easy-to-eat pieces and
a robust hearty dish. | recommend serving this with a make shallow criss-cross incisions on the skin side of
refreshing salad of watercress or rocket leaves. each piece. Salt the fish and leave to stand for 20-30
minutes.

Meanwhile, soak the kelp in 200m! water for 30 minutes,

SERVES 4
to make water dashi.
4 mackerel fillets
4 teaspoons fine sea salt At the same time, soak the onion slices in a bowl of
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp cold water for 20 minutes — this removes the strong
2 white or red onions, peeled and finely sliced oniony odour.
40g fresh ginger
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, blanch the fish
1 tablespoon rice vinegar for 1-2 minutes and drain.
FOR THE SWEET MISO BLEND
Peel the ginger and thinly slice half and julienne the
80g medium-coloured miso
other half. Mix the miso, sugar and sake together in a
2 tablespoons sugar
bowl.
4 tablespoons sake
Remove the kelp from the water. Heat the water dashi
in a large saucepan over a medium heat to just boiling
and add the fish, skin side up. Spread the miso blend
and scatter the ginger slices on top of the fish and
cover with a moistened drop-lid (see page 134), then
return to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, simmer for
10 minutes and add the rice vinegar just before turning
off the heat.

Drain the onion slices then spread them over kitchen

paper to dry.

To serve, spread a portion of onion slices on an

individual serving plate or dish, arrange the fish pieces
on the onion bed, spoon the cooking sauce over the
fish and put a small mound ofjulienned ginger on top
of the fish. ¢

MAIN COURSES 143

SAKE-STEAMED SEA BASS SAKE STEAMED CLAMS
SUZUKI NO SAKE-MUSHI ASARI NO SAKE-MUSHI

Steaming is a clean and healthy way of cooking The advantage of steaming clams in sake is that the
delicate fish. You can use any white-flesh fish for sake vaporises at a lower temperature than water. This
this recipe. way, the sake works to cook the clams faster as well as
erasing any fishy smell.

SERVES 4
4 teaspoons salt SERVES 4

8 x 60-80g sea bass fillets 1.2kg clams

4 baby sweetcorn 200ml sake
dinner plate-size dried kelp 2 teaspoons light soy sauce
4 tablespoons sake 400g dried soba noodles
8 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, large caps 2 spring onions, julienned or very finely chopped
halved salt
40g sprouting broccoli, cut into 3—-4cm pieces
4 tablespoons soy sauce Combine 1 teaspoon of salt with 2 litres of cold
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, to serve water in a large, flat-based container. Add the clams,
cover tightly with foil and stand, for 2 hours at room
Sprinkle the salt on both sides of the fish and leave to temperature — this will help them spit out any grit and
stand for 15 minutes. sand.

Meanwhile, trim and blanch the baby sweetcorn in Wash the clams by gently rubbing them together under
a pan of boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Drain and cold running water and drain. Discard any clams with
immediately plunge into cold water. Drain again and damaged shells. Put the clams in a large saucepan or
set aside. frying pan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat.
When hot, pour in 100m! water, the sake and soy sauce
Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and fold into loose and steam with the lid on for 3-5 minutes, until the
rolls by tucking both ends under — this is to save space cooking juices have been slightly reduced. Discard any
in your steamer. Wipe the kelp with a clean damp cloth clams that are not open.
and use it to line a heatproof dish that is large enough
to hold the fish. Place the fish rolls on top of the kelp Meanwhile, cook and drain the soba noodles (see page
and pour over the sake. Place the dish in a steamer 77) then divide between 4 serving dishes.
with about 500m! of water at the base and steam for Spoon the clams over the noodles, scatter with
10-12 minutes over a rapid heat. (If you don't have a
chopped spring onions and serve.
large steamer, use a wok with a lid, standing the dish
on top of a heatproof bowl.)

Add the baby sweetcorn, mushrooms and broccoli on

top of the fish and steam for a further 3-4 minutes.

Place 2 fish rolls on 4 individual serving dishes and

arrange the vegetables on the side. Drizzle the cooking
juices and the soy sauce at the bottom of each dish
and serve with lemon wedges.

144 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

DEEP-FRYING
AGE-MONO

The technique of deep-frying is thought to have been 160°C The batter drops gradually sink to the bottom
introduced by the Chinese as a part of the Buddhism and slowly rise to the top.
vegetarian cuisine in the 7th century, but it remained
170°C The batter drops create gentle bubbles around
relatively unknown outside the temple confines. In the
them, sink to the bottom and quickly rise to the top.
late 16th century the Portuguese and Spanish Catholic
missionaries introduced the original form of tempura. 180°C The batter drops quickly sink to the bottom and
Thereafter, deep-frying in Japan underwent centuries immediately rise to the top.
of adaptations and innovations to suit local tastes and
190°C+ The batter drops skittle around noisily and
ingredients, until it was elevated to the very pinnacle of
remain at the surface
refinement and became a major category of Japanese
cooking. Although tempura is the best known form If the oil is not hot enough, the food will absorb oil
there are three types of deep-frying. and become heavy and greasy. If the oil is too hot, the
outside will burn while the inside will remain uncooked.
Su-age, or naked frying, is, as the name suggests, when
food is deep-fried without any coating. This method is Maintaining the oil temperature at a constant level
best suited to food such as small freshwater fish, shiso is equally important. Use a thick, deep, flat-based
leaves or sliced lotus where retaining the colour and iron, stainless steel or copper saucepan for even heat
shape is important. distribution and better heat retention. The amount
of oil needed varies but always use plenty — around
Kara-age originally meant Chinese frying, but kara also
1-1.2 litres. The general rule is that the depth of oil in
means ‘empty’ (without batter), meaning dry frying.
the pan should be at least twice or more than double
Food is often marinated or seasoned before being
the thickness of the food items being deep-fried and
thinly dusted with flour or cornflour, which works to seal
the pan should not be any more than 70 per cent full.
in the taste and flavour. Typical food for kara-age are
flatfish such as sole and plaice, or chicken and tofu.
Always deep-fry foods in small quantities so that the
pan is never over crowded — no more than enough
Koromo-age, is where foods are coated with batter to cover a third of the oil surface at one time. Food
and cooked in hot oil — 165°C for vegetables and should be at room temperature before cooking and
170°-180°C for fish. Tempura and katsu (food coated never straight from the fridge. The preferred source of
with breadcrumbs) are typical examples. heat is gas as it responds quickly.
OIL RE-USING OIL
Always use highly refined pure vegetable oils such After cooking, and once all the food has been
as corn, peanut, sunflower or rapeseed oil but never removed, heat the oil and stir lightly so that any
animal fats or olive oil. moisture in the oil from food evaporates. Then, while

TEMPERATURE the oil is still warm but not too hot, pass it through a
paper filter into a container with an airtight lid. Seal
Different ingredients call for different temperatures,
and store in a dark, cool place. You may top up the
but, generally speaking, vegetables are fried at a low
used oil with fresh oil (half and half) but such refreshed
heat while meat and fish are cooked fast at a high heat
oil should not be used for deep-frying more than twice.
to keep juicy tenderness. For home cooks without a
By that time the oil will be darker in colour and lose
thermometer, the temperature of oil can be judged by
lustre and taste. The older the oil is the more likely it
dropping in a few drops of batter:
is to froth and foam, which makes it impossible to fry
light, crisp food and it should be discarded.

146 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

DEEP-FRIED PLAICE
KARE] NO KARA-AGE

| have already mentioned that Japanese people love Preheat the oven to 110°C/gas mark %, this is to keep
seeing a whole fish at the table and deep-frying is the fish warm after cooking.
no exception. Don't be intimidated by the idea of
Wash and clean the fish then make a large cross-shaped
cooking a whole fish — it is surprisingly simple, but
incision on both sides. Place the fish in a large flat dish.
make sure you have plenty of oil and use a large pan.
Mix the sake and salt together and drizzle 1 tablespoon
over each fish and set aside.

SERVES 4
Mix the dipping sauce ingredients together in a bowl
and set aside until needed. Combine the plain flour and
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES
cornflour.
4 plaice (or any small flatfish), about 200-250g each
4 tablespoons sake Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper, dust with the flour
1 teaspoon salt mix and brush off any excess. In a large heavy-based
50g plain flour pan, heat the oil to 170°C to deep-fry the fish one at
50g cornflour a time. Hold a fish by its tail and gently submerge it
1.5-2 litres vegetable oil, for deep frying into the oil, darker skin side first. The oil will bubble
2 green peppers, cut into quarter strips and deseeded vigorously at first but then quieten down and the size of
100g daikon, giant white radish bubbles will become smaller after about 5-6 minutes.
2 spring onions, finely chopped Turn the fish over to deep-fry the other side for 4-5
Ya teaspoon chilli powder minutes or until golden and crisp. Take the fish out and
put on a wire rack placed over a baking tray and place
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
the whole thing in the oven to keep warm while you
6 tablespoons soy sauce
cook the remaining fish. Leave the oven door slightly
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
open so that moisture from the hot fish can escape and
2 tablespoons mirin does not make the fish soggy.
3 tablespoons lemon or lime juice
Deep-fry the peppers for 1-2 minutes and drain.

Peel and grate the radish and drain slightly. Mix with the
spring onions and chilli powder in a bowl.

To serve, place a fish with its head facing left on

individual plates. Put the peppers and a small mound of
grated radish mix on the bottom right corner and offer a
small dish of the dipping sauce on the side. Encourage
your guests to eat the crunchy fins and tail.

COOK’S TIP
If the idea of cooking a whole fish seems too daunting
but you still wish to enjoy eating crunchy fins, then use
any flatfish steak cuts on the bone.

MAIN COURSES 147

SPICY DEEP-FRIED SARDINES
IWASHI NO NANBAN-ZUKE

Nanban-zuke is a cooking technique where seafood is Start by sprinkling the fish with the salt, paying
deep-fried without any coating and then seasoned in particular attention to the insides. Leave to stand
a spicy vinegar marinade. It is particularly suitable for for 10 minutes.
any small oily fish.
Put all the marinade ingredients with 100ml water in a
saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat,
reduce the heat and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Turn off
SERVES 4 the heat and pour into a large flat dish and add the
FORME FISk onion, peppers, chilli and ginger. Set aside.
1-2 tablespoons salt
Wash the fish in cold water and dry thoroughly with
8-12 sardines, gutted and heads removed
kitchen paper. Dust with cornflour and brush off any
100g cornflour
excess.
1-1.5 litres vegetable oil
FOR THE MARINADE In a large, heavy-based pan, heat the oil to 165-170°C
4 tablespoons sake and gently deep-fry 2 or 3 fish at a time, for 8-10
2 tablespoons sugar minutes to cook through to the bone, turning them
2 tablespoons mirin occasionally. As the oil temperature is low the fish will
4 tablespoons rice vinegar sink to the bottom before rising to the top and the oil
6 tablespoons soy sauce will bubble vigorously at first then quieten down when
the fish are nearly done.
BORMmESPRIGY MIX
1 medium-size red onion, peeled and finely chopped Take the fish out and immediately transfer into the spicy
1 red pepper, deseeded and diced marinade mix. Repeat to cook the remaining sardines.
1 green pepper, deseeded and diced
Submerging the deep-fried fish straight into the sauce
1 large red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
while they are very hot is the key to success. Let them
15g fresh ginger, peeled and grated
absorb the flavours for 45-60 minutes, before serving
at room temperature with a tablespoon of the sauce for
each sardine.

COOK’S TIP
You can also try this recipe with mackerel or herring.
Allow 2 fillets per person and reduce the deep-frying
time slightly to about 5-8 minutes.

148 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

DEEP-FRIED MARINATED MACKEREL
SABA NO TATSUTA-AGE

It is said that the term ‘Tatsuta-age’ comes from the Heat the oil to 165°C in a large, deep frying pan, and
River Tatsuta in Nara, which is a well-known beauty deep-fry the peppers in small batches for no more
spot for autumn maple leaves, because deep-fried than 1-2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove and
morsels in oil look like red leaves floating down the drain the peppers over a wire rack or on kitchen paper.
river. It is a nice story and typical of the Japanese to Sprinkle a pinch of salt ‘over them while still hot to
find a seasonal depiction even in a deep-fried food. preserve the bright colour.
Red maple leaves or not, food cooked in this style is
Now deep-fry the fish, again in small batches, for 5-8
not only visual but also delicious due to the marinade
minutes. They will sink to the bottom first and float in
even when it is served at room temperature — good
the middle before rising to the top. Remove from the
news for busy home cooks.
oil and drain well over a wire rack.

To serve, divide the fish and peppers into 4 portions,

make a small mound of fish on an individual plate,
SERVES 4
scatter peppers on top and offer a wedge of lemon on
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES the side.
8 x 100-120g mackerel fillets
2 red pepper COOK’S TIP

2 yellow pepper For a spicier flavour, add ¥%2 teaspoon of shichimi-

100g cornflour togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder to the marinade.
1-1.5 litres vegetable oil
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, to serve
salt
FOR THE MARINADE
2 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons mirin
6 tablespoons soy sauce
4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger and juice

Cut the fillets into angular, large bite-size pieces. In

a bowl, mix all the marinade ingredients and add the
fish. Leave to marinate for 15-20 minutes, turning them
occasionally.

Meanwhile, cut the peppers, deseed and cut into

diamond-shaped pieces (or into maple leaves if you
have a maple leaf shaped food cutter).

Spread the fish on layers of kitchen paper to dry

thoroughly then dust with cornflour.

150 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

DEEP-FRIED SCALLOPS IN RICE CRACKERS
HOTATE NO ARARE-TATSUTA-AGE

In Tatsuta-age, food is usually marinated first then Start by blanching the chestnuts in boiling water, for
coated with cornflour or plain flour, but in this version 10-15 minutes, to soften the skins then peel both the
rice crackers do both jobs of seasoning and coating. outer skin and bitter pellicle.
You can use any soy-flavoured rice crackers but my
Put the rice crackers in a plastic bag and lightly
favourite choice is kaki-no-tane, small peppery ones
crush them with a rolling pin to crumble (do not
which look like seeds.
overdo this as what you want is crunchy broken pieces
not powdered crackers). Transfer the cracker crumble
to a dish.
SERVES 4
Lightly dust the scallops with flour. Dip in the egg white,
8 sweet chestnuts
to moisten, then roll in the cracker crumbs, to coat.
100g kaki-no-tane, rice crackers
200g scallops Heat the oil to 160°C in a large deep frying pan and
2 tablespoons plain flour deep-fry the chestnuts, for 5-8 minutes, they will sink
2 egg white, lightly beaten to the bottom initially and slowly rise to the top. Turn
1-1.5 litres vegetable oil them a few times. Remove and drain on a wire rack or
kitchen paper.

Heat the oil to 170°C and deep-fry the scallops in small

batches for 3-5 minutes, they will sink to the middle
of the oil and rise to the surface. Turn them once. Take
one out to test — it should be slightly under cooked in
the middle. Remove and drain on a wire rack.

Divide into 4 equal portions and put on individual

serving plates, piace 2 chestnuts on each and serve.

eS

MAIN COURSES |5|

TEMPURA

Crisp, airy, light tempura made by a professional HOW TO DEEP-FRY

and eaten straight away is almost impossible to Before you start, organise your cooking area; the hot
recreate at home and Japanese people go to oil pan at the centre, a plate of dusting flour, a bowl
specialist restaurants. You can, however, produce very of batter and a tray of food to be fried on your left,
good results if you follow key rules at each stage of a draining rack with long cooking chopsticks and a
preparation. The rules are simple and logical but must slotted spoon or a mesh scoop at right. Also, it is useful
be followed without skimping. The points on oil and to have the oven on the lowest setting with the door
its temperatures explained on page 146 also apply to slightly open to keep food warm while you cook.
tempura but where tempura is distinct from the other
Start by deep-frying vegetables then increase the oil
two deep-frying styles lies in the koromo, batter.
temperature for fish and seafood. To keep the oil at
HOW TO MAKE TEMPURA BATTER the desired temperature, fry the food in small batches
To achieve feathery light tempura batter you do exactly —no more than half of the oil surface area should be
the opposite of making pancake batter: covered by frying food (see page 146). Turn over food
only once and do not disturb it while frying. Damaged
Keep the ingredients chilled until needed.
batter coating will result in the food becoming heavy
Sift the flour before mixing. and oily.

Prepare the batter in small batches just before you are

TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE TEN-TSUYU
ready to deep-fry and once made, do not let it stand.

In a mixing bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks, pour The key point of ten-tsuyu, dipping sauce is its
in the ice cold water, mix, then add the flour all at temperature; if it is hot, the batter coating will absorb
once, loosely folding it in using the handles of two too much liquid and it will become soggy. It should
wooden spoons. The marks of good tempura batter be served just warm to enhance the lightness of the
are a powdery ring of flour on the sides of the mixing tempura batter.
bowl and some dry flour lumps floating at the top. Do
not over-mix as the batter will become sticky and the
coating will turn out oily and heavy. Keep the mixing MAKES 300ML
bowl away from the heat while cooking. 50ml mirin
200ml! Dashi (see page 29)
GETTING THE CORRECT CONSISTENCY
25ml light soy sauce
In the professional kitchen, they mix more than one
25ml soy sauce
type of the batter for different ingredients — watery
2-3g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes
batter for mild-tasting vegetables and delicate
sashimi-fresh fish, thicker batter for strong-tasting fish
such as conger eel. For home cooks, it is better to use In a saucepan, bring the mirin just to the boil to burn
shita-ko, literally under-flour (sifted plain flour). Use off the alcohol then add the dashi and soy sauces.
a soft pastry brush to lightly dust flour over the Return to the boil, add the bonito flakes and turn off
vegetables and delicate fish and dust a thicker coating the heat. Leave to stand for 5 minutes to infuse. Then
over for more robust-tasting ingredients. filter through a fine mesh and keep warm until needed.

Tempura dipping sauce is usually served with loosely

drained grated daikon, (giant white radish).

152 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

MIXED TEMPURA
KAKI-AGE

Kaki-age is mixed tempura where small bits of seafood Peel and cut the onion and carrot into 3cm long
and vegetables are bound together with batter. While matchsticks. Remove and discard the mushroom stems
tempura is a food for special occasions, kaki-age is and slice the caps. Put all the vegetables and shrimps
unceremonious and casual and it is also a great tasty in a large bowl and sprinkle with 4 tablepsoons of flour.
way of cleaning up your fridge of leftover bits. The Mix to ensure each piece is well coated.
key to success is ensuring all ingredients are chopped
Grate the radish and drain slightly. Set aside
to a uniform size so that they cook at the same speed
and do not use too much batter. Fill a 15-18cm diameter saucepan or a deep frying
pan with the oil to about 3-4cm deep. Heat to 170°C.
Meanwhile, pre-heat the oven to the lowest setting.
SERVES 4 In a large bowl, prepare the batter (see page 152) and
Ye medium-size onion then add the vegetable and shrimp mixture. Stir with a
1 carrot large serving spoon in cut-and-turn motion. Although
4 shiitake mushrooms each ingredient should be coated with the batter, do
4 spring onions, chopped on the diagonal not over-mix, and try to keep as many air pockets in the
80g tinned sweetcorn, drained batter as possible. Divide the batter into 4 portions.
200g shelled shrimp, roughly chopped
To test the oil temperature, drop a tiny drip of batter at
4 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting
the tip of wooden spoon handle — it should sink to the
1-1.5 litres vegetable oil, for deep-frying
bottom before quickly floats up to the top surrounded
200g daikon, giant white radish
by tiny bubbles.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Using the same spoon, gently slide a portion of the
FOR THE TEMPURA BATTER
mixture along the side of the pan and spread it evenly,
1 egg yolk
just smaller than the diameter of the pan. Deep-fry for
260ml ice cold water 4-6 minutes, or until lightly golden and crisp then turn
140g plain flour over to cook the other side for further 3-5 minutes.
Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon, drain and
place on a wire rack set over a baking tray. Keep warm
in the oven while you repeat the process 3 more times
to cook the rest.

To serve, put each kaki-age disc on individual serving

plates with a small mound of the drained grated radish
on top with soy sauce drizzled over the mound.

COOK’S TIP
You can use almost any combination of chopped
vegetables and seafood but the important point is
cutting them into similar size pieces and keeping the
batter coating tight.

MAIN COURSES 153

SEAFOOD TEMPURA WITH Cut the squid into 45cm squares and lightly cross-
score the outer sides, taking care not to cut through.
VEGETABLES Cut fish fillets into 4-5cm diamond shapes.
TEMPURA MORIAWASE
Next prepare the vegetables. Cut the aubergine into
eight 1cm thick round slices, lay them flat and place
between kitchen paper to stop discolouration. Peel the
Although tempura should be eaten straight away and sweet potato, trim off the ends and cut into four 1cm
does not suit home-cooking, you can get good results thick round slices. Peel the onions, cut in half vertically,
if you follow these rules: use the freshest ingredients then into 1.2cm thick half moons.
and dry them thoroughly, keep oil at a constant
temperature and use chilled and lumpy batter. Lay all the seafood and vegetables on a large baking
tray lined with kitchen paper.

Prepare the dipping sauce as shown on page 152.

SERVES 4 Grate the radish and ginger into a sieve placed over a
8 large tiger prawns bowl to lightly drain.
200g squid, body part only
Fill a large saucepan or deep frying pan with oil to
4 plaice or lemon sole fillets, weighing 120-150g each
about 3-4cm deep. Heat to 170°C. Meanwhile, pre-heat
1 large Western-size aubergine
the oven to the lowest setting.
1 medium sweet potato, weighing about 300g
2 medium white onions Prepare the batter in 2 batches (see page 152) — the first
1 green pepper, deseeded and cut into 4 segments for the vegetables and the second for the seafood. Mix
1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into 4 segments each batch just before you are ready to start cooking.
4 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
To test the oil temperature, drop in a tiny drip of batter
100g sifted plain flour, for dusting
— it should sink to the bottom before quickly floating up
200g daikon, giant white radish, peeled and grated
to the top surrounded by tiny bubbles.
30g fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1--1.5 litres vegetable oil, for deep-frying Dust the aubergine slices with flour, shaking off any
excess, then dip in the batter and slide into the hot oil.
FOR THE BATTER MIX (DIVIDED INTO TWO BATCHES)
Deep-fry for 3-4 minutes on each side or until lightly
2 egg yolks
golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and
400ml ice cold water
drain briefly before transferring onto a wire rack placed
200g plain flour, sifted
over a baking tray. Keep warm in the oven while you
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE repeat for all the vegetables. Occasionally skim off any
50ml mirin bit of batter on the surface of the oil.
200ml Dashi (see page 29)
25ml light soy sauce Increase the oil to 180°C and mix the second batch of
25ml soy sauce batter. With a pastry brush, lightly dust the prawns and,
2-3g katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes while holding the tails dip into the batter. Deep-fry for
2-4 minutes, or until golden and crisp, turning over for
even cooking. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon
Shell and devein the prawns but leave the tails on. Trim
and transfer to another wire rack. Keep warm in the
the prawn tails into a feathered shape and gently press
oven while you repeat for the rest of the seafood.
out any moisture with the flat of the knife. To stop the
prawns curling, make 3-4 deep incisions along the belly To serve, either arrange all the food on a large platter
and hold each belly side up, then bend over to stretch or divide between 4 individual plates lined with folded
the tendon. paper napkins. Provide each guest with a small bowl of
dipping sauce mixed with grated radish and ginger.

154. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TOFU

Tofu is a wonderful food, made from soy beans, and is HOW TO DRAIN TOFU

also known as ‘field meat’. It is healthy, high in protein NATURAL METHOD Leave to stand on a slightly angled
and calcium while low in calories and cost. chopping board or a flat bamboo tray for 15-20
minutes.
Tofu originated in China over two thousand years
ago, and spread throughout Asia. Although the date BOILING METHOD Boil a whole block for 5-10 minutes or
of its first arrival in Japan is not entirely clear, it was for 2-3 minutes in smaller pieces.
most probably introduced around the same time as
MICROWAVE Wrap in kitchen paper and microwave (600—
Buddhism in the 6th century.
800kw) for 3 minutes.
In Japan, tofu comes in various forms ranging from
SQUEEZING METHOD Wrap the tofu in a clean damp cloth
regular fresh tofu, or deep-fried, to prized delicacy
and squeeze.
yuba, soy-milk skin, and the store-cupboard staple of
koyadofu, a freeze-dried version. In this book, however, PRESSING METHOD Sandwich the tofu between 2 boards,
only regular fresh firm and soft types and aburaage, slightly angled, with or without a weight and leave.
deep-fried tofu, are used.
Tofu is essentially a fresh food and should be used up
In Japan, fresh tofu comes in a standard block size within a day or two. A tofu peddler going around our
of 9 x 18 x 2.5cm and weighs about 250-300g each. neighbourhood, on a bicycle with a heavy wooden tub
One block of tofu provides about 20g high-quality filled with water and tofu inside precariously strapped
protein, which is about a third of an adult's daily at the back, was a familiar daily scene when | was
requirement. Furthermore, while animal protein is high growing up in Japan. Outside Japan, tofu is usually sold
in saturated fat and raises cholesterol, tofu’s soy protein in sealed packets date stamped, like dairy products,
contains non-saturated fat and actually helps to lower to give the consumer some idea of freshness. Use
cholesterol. It is also rich in calcium — eating about tofu within 5-7 days of manufacture. Deep-tfried tofu
100g of tofu provides the equivalent of a glass of milk keeps for 7-10 days or it freezes well. Tofu must be
or twice as much spinach. lsoflavone found in the soy kept refrigerated. To help keep it fresh, once opened,
embryo is known to work similarly to oestrogen and transfer it into a larger container, cover with water and
hence eating about 100g of tofu a day helps to stave change the water daily.
off osteoporosis.

Health benefits of eating tofu regularly cannot be

overstated yet some people are put off by its veggie
image and complain it is bland. This is because nearly
90 per cent of tofu is water and it needs to be drained
before use.

I56 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TERIYAKI TOFU STEAKS

A mild taste of tofu is like having a blank canvas for a Drain the tofu by following one of the methods on page
cook to create any culinary painting. 156. Dust the tofu with flour.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and

add the tofu. Cook for 3-5 minutes until light brown
SERVES 4 and crisp on one side, then turn over to cook the other
600g firm cotton tofu, cut into 4 equal rectangles side for a further 3 minutes. Pour in the sake, mirin and
2 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting soy sauce and simmer for 5-7 minutes, uncovered.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Meanwhile, peel and grate the radish and drain
4 tablespoons sake
slightly with a sieve — it should yield about 4-5 heaped
6 tablespoons mirin
tablespoons. Add the grated radish to the pan, stir and
2 tablespoons soy sauce
then let the cooking juice return to just boiling.
200g daikon, giant white radish
Ya teaspoon shichimi-t6 garashi, seven-spice chilli Place the tofu on individual dishes, spoon over the
powder or chilli powder teriyaki sauce mix and sprinkle over the chili powder.
a handful of cress, to garnish Garnish with the cress and serve.

MAIN COURSES 157

DEEP-FRIED TOFU IN BROTH
AGEDASHIDOFU

This is probably the best-loved tofu dish — the key is Cut the tofu into 4 blocks and leave to drain on a
draining the tofu well. slightly angled board for 15-20 minutes or if you are
short of time, sandwich the tofu between 2 chopping
boards, angled slightly on a chopstick with a tin of
tomato as a weight ontop.
SERVES 4
600g firm cotton tofu Cut the spring onions into about 5cm lengths then, with
4 spring onions the tip of a knife, cut into very fine strips lengthways
2 litres vegetable oil and soak in a bowl of water. Once the strips have
100g plain flour, for dusting curled, drain and set aside.
4 tablespoons momiji-oroshi, red maple radish sauce
Heat the dashi in a saucepan to a gentle simmer and
(see below)
add the soy and mirin. Stir in the cornflour mixture, to
FOR THE DASHI BROTH thicken, then keep warm while you deep-fry the tofu.
200ml Dashi (see page 29)
Heat the oil to 180°C in a heavy-based saucepan.
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
Dust the tofu with flour and shake off any excess then
2 tablespoons mirin
immediately deep-fry, 1-2 pieces at a time, for about
2 tablespoons cornflour mixed with
6-8 minutes or until lightly golden. Briefly drain on a
2 tablespoons water
wire rack. Repeat to cook the remaining tofu.

Put the tofu in individual serving dishes, pour the dashi

broth over, spoon on the red maple radish sauce (see
below) and garnish with the spring onion curls. Serve
immediately.

HOW TO MAKE RED MAPLE RADISH SAUCE

Momiji-oroshi is grated radish with a kick of dried red
chillies and makes an excellent condiment for deep-
fried dishes. You can buy it ready-made but home-
made is not difficult. Cut the stems of dried chillies and,
without puncturing, remove the seeds from the inside,
then soak in warm water for 5-8 minutes, to soften. Peel
and cut a daikon, giant white radish, into 5-6cm length
pieces then make 3-5 holes in one end with a chopstick
and plug the chillies into the holes, using the chopstick
to push them in. Grate the whole radish — it should
yield about a cupful of very watery red mixture. Drain
through a sieve. Fresh momiji-oroshi doesn’t keep well,
so make it as needed.

158 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TOFU BURGER TOFU STEAKS
GANMODOKI WITH MUSHROOMS

Ganmodoki literally means pseudo wild goose as it This is for those people who complain of the mild
is supposed to ‘look and taste’ like goose meat and taste of tofu. Here mushroom sauce gives plenty of
originates from the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine woody meaty flavour.

SERVES 4 SERVES4

400g firm cotton tofu 600g firm cotton tofu, cut into 4 equal rectangles
200g shrimps 160g shiitake mushrooms
30g edamame beans, cooked 120g shimeji mushrooms
50g yam, peeled 120g enoki mushrooms
1 egg white 2 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 25g unsalted butter
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds 2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying 2 spring onions, finely chopped on the diagonal
4 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting salt and freshly ground black pepper
Citrus Soy Vinegar, ponzu (see page 51), to serve
Sandwich the tofu steaks between 2 equal-size boards
Wrap the tofu in a clean damp cloth and wring to drain with a small weight (a 400g tin is ideal) on top and leave
thoroughly to yield wet pulp. to drain for 15-20 minutes, or use any of the other
draining methods described on page 156.
Put the tofu, shrimps, edamame, yam, egg white and
salt into a food processor and purée until very smooth. Meanwhile, cut and discard the shiitake stems and slice
the caps. Remove the base of the shimeji and enoki
Transfer to a bowl, mix in the carrot and sesame seeds, mushrooms where they are joined, then separate.
then divide into 4 portions. Rub your hands with a little
vegetable oil — this is to make your hands non-stick — Dust the tofu with flour and let it stand for a few
and shape into 4 oval patties about 3cm thick. Chill for minutes.

1 hour. Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high
Dust each patty lightly with flour and shake off the heat and add the tofu. Fry for 3-5 minutes until lightly
excess. brown and crisp one side, turn over, cover with a lid
and reduce to a medium-low heat while you cook the
Heat the vegetable oil in a deep heavy-based frying mushrooms.
pan over a medium heat. Add the patties and deep-fry
on one side, until golden brown, for about 3-5 minutes, Melt the butter in a separate pan over a medium heat
then turn over to cook on the other side for 2-3 and sauté the mushrooms until soft. Add the soy sauce
minutes, or until golden brown and then drain. and stir, then adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper
if needed and scatter over the spring onions.
Serve hot with Citrus Soy Vinegar, ponzu.
To serve, place the tofu steaks in the middle of
individual plates and spoon one quarter of the
mushroom mixture over each steak.

160 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

OVEN-BAKED MISO AND TOFU GRATIN

This recipe is full of umami from the dashi broth, miso Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Grease a large
and Parmesan cheese. So try it on someone who gratin dish with the butter.
complains that tofu doesn’t taste of anything.
Break up the tofu into rough chunks with your hands
and set aside to drain on a flat bamboo tray (or a
slightly angled chopping board) or in a sieve.
SERVES 4
butter, for greasing Cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and dust with
500g firm cotton tofu the flour.
200g skinless chicken thigh fillets, cut into bite-size Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat
chunks and cook the chicken for 3-5 minutes, until lightly
2 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting browned. Add the parsnip and carrot and cook for 3
1 tablespoon vegetable oil minutes. Add the leek, mushrooms and beans with the
1 parsnip, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks dashi and simmer over a medium heat for 6-8 minutes,
1 carrot, peeled and cut into bite-size chunks or until all the vegetables are cooked through.
1 leek, trimmed and cut into thick slices
Put the miso in a small bowl and add a ladleful of the
8 chestnut mushrooms, halved or quartered
dashi from the pan, stirring to soften. Add the tofu and
12 fine green beans, halved
miso to the vegetables and mix well.
200m! Dashi (see page 29)
2-3 tablespoons medium-coloured miso Transfer the mixture into the prepared gratin dish.
50g Parmesan cheese, grated Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and bake for
crusty bread or baguette, to serve 12-15 minutes or until the cheese is melted and
light brown.

Divide between 4 individual dishes and serve with some

crusty bread.

Em ee

MAIN COURSES 163

JAPANESE-STYLE MAPO TOFU

Mapo tofu is a famous Sichuan dish that is also very Bring a large saucepan of mild salted water to just
popular in Japan. Like many foods with Chinese below the boil over a high heat. Cut the tofu into 2cm
origins such as ramen and gy6za dumplings, mapo cubes, then add to the saucepan. When the tofu begins
tofu eaten in Japan has been long adapted to suit to sway a little in the water, reduce the heat to low to
Japanese tastes. Traditionally mapo tofu is served with stop the water from boiling and simmer for 2-3 minutes
plain boiled rice. and drain. A gentle simmering drains the tofu while
stopping it from developing tiny pin-holes.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan or wok

SERVES 4 over a high heat. Add the chicken and pork, and stir-
ROR Vicl= ORY) fry for about 5 minutes. When oil begins to seep out
500g soft silken tofu and the colour of the meat is lighter, reduce the heat
1-2 teaspoons sesame oil to medium and stir in the garlic, chilli and leeks then
200g minced chicken continue to cook for 3-5 minutes.
200g minced pork Mix all the sauce ingredients in a bowl with 400ml of
1 clove garlic, crushed and finely chopped water then pour into the pan and stir to mix. Let the
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped meat mixture return to the boil. Add the tofu into the
2 leeks, trimmed and finely chopped pan and stir the whole mixture carefully, taking care not
salt to break the tofu, and simmer for about 5 minutes.
Ya teaspoon sansho pepper or Sichuan pepper, to
serve Divide between 4 individual serving dishes, sprinkle
over the sansho pepper and serve.
FOR THE COOKING SAUCE
4 tablespoons sake VARIATIONS
2 tablespoons sugar | chose to use the soft silken variety of tofu for its
4 tablespoons soy sauce smooth slippery texture. But there is nothing to stop
2 teaspoons cornflour you using the firm cotton variety if you prefer.
4 tablespoons red or dark-coloured miso
If you only have regular, medium-coloured miso
paste (which is milder than the darker type) adjust the
seasoning by adding 1-2 tablespoon of soy sauce.

164 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

VEGETARIAN MAPO TOFU

This recipe is full of flavour. Doubanjiang is a spicy Soak the shiitake in a bowl with 400m! warm water for
Chinese bean sauce sold in Asian stores or larger 10 minutes or until they are soft. When soft, cut and
supermarkets. As an alternative, use medium-coloured discard the stems and finely chop the caps, reserve the
Japanese miso paste mixed with chili sauce. soaking water for later.

At the same time, soak the diced aubergine in a bowl

SERVES4 of cold water, to remove bitterness. Change the water
4 dried shiitake mushrooms 2-3 times and drain.
1 aubergine, weighing about 300g, finely diced Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to just below
500g soft or firm cotton tofu, cut into 2cm cubes the boil over a medium-high heat. Add the tofu cubes
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil and when the tofu begins to sway in the water, reduce
1 garlic clove, crushed and finely chopped the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2-3 minutes
20g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped and drain. A gentle simmering drains the tofu while
2 leeks, trimmed and finely chopped stopping it from developing tiny pin-holes.
2 tablespoons Doubanjiang, Sichuan fermented chilli
Heat the sesame oil in a large frying pan or wok over
bean sauce
a high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and leeks with the
FOR THE COOKING SAUCE shiitake, aubergine and Doubanjiang, and stir-fry for
2 tablespoons sake about 3 minutes.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar Mix all the cooking sauce ingredients with the reserved
2 teaspoons cornflour shiitake water and add to the pan. Let the mixture
Y2 teaspoon sansho pepper or Sichuan pepper, to serve come to the bail. Immediately reduce the heat to
medium, add the tofu and carefully stir, taking care not
to break the tofu. Simmer for about 5 minutes and turn
off the heat.

Divide between 4 individual serving dishes, sprinkle

over the sansho pepper and serve.

MAIN COURSES 165

POULTRY SAVOURY THICK OMELETTE
AND EGGS DATEMAKI TAMAGO

The Japanese people's relationship with chicken This thick rolled omelette is an essential component
and eggs goes back a long way. Ancient mythology on New Year menus. It is made of ground whitefish
recounts that when Amaterasuoomikami, the Sun or prawns and eggs and has sweet-savoury flavours.
goddess, revered mother of Japan, had an argument Although the traditional version calls for a rectangular
with her brother and hid herself in a cave it resulted Japanese omelette pan and a bamboo rolling mat,
in the whole country descending into total darkness. this recipe has been adapted using an ordinary round
A flock of roosters were sent to cock-a-doodle to omelette pan.
entice her out. Ancient farmers relied on roosters to
tell them when to get up and start working. Chickens
were revered as messengers from God and their
SERVES 4
eggs were used as holy offerings.
200g cooked prawns
In 675 AD an imperial decree was passed prohibiting 2 tablespoons plain flour
the killing of cattle, horses, dogs, monkeys and 1 teaspoon salt
chickens, for eating, in accordance with the Buddhist 6 eggs, lightly beaten
belief. But interestingly the banning order did not 4 tablespoons clear honey
extend to what were then more common wild birds 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
and animals such as pheasants, ducks, deer and wild Ya tablespoon vegetable oil
boars. Although Japanese people ‘officially’ did not 200g daikon, giant white radish, grated and slightly
eat meat and poultry for over 1200 years, until the drained, to serve
Meiji Restoration in 1868, it is largely thought that
people were eating meat inconspicuously or even Put the prawns, flour and salt in a food processor and
quite openly in the case of the samurai who loved blitz, then add a small amount of egg and blitz again.
hunting and falconry. Keep processing the prawn mixture while adding the
The Japanese are rice farmers and there was no eggs gradually, until it is all used up, and the mixture
livestock or chicken farming until the late 19th becomes very smooth and elastic. Finally, add the
century. Both chicken and eggs were more popular honey and soy sauce.
than meat, for their mild tastes, but remained
Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a low
relatively expensive until as late as the 1950s when heat. Wipe away any excess oil in the pan and pour
American-style chicken farming was introduced. in the egg mixture. Cover with a lid and cook for 20
During the economic boom of the 1970s a buzzword minutes or until the bottom is light brown and the top
listing the three most popular items was EA, soft set but not runny. Turn over and cook, uncovered,
AMB. INBEX Kyojin — a title-winning professional for a further 12-15 minutes and if the centre begins to
baseball team, Taihd — a long-reigning sumo grand rise, gently push down with a spatula.
champion, and tamagoyaki - an egg omelette.
Cut the omelette into 8 wedges and serve with a small
mound of drained radish on each plate.

l66 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

HOT SPRING EGGS SAVOURY STEAMED
ON ASPARAGUS EGG CUSTARD
ONSEN-TAMAGO TO ASUPARA CHAWAN-MUSHI

There are countless numbers of hot springs in Japan Chawan-mushi, ‘steamed in rice bowl’, is usually
and many people enjoy these natural resources, even served as a side dish or instead of soup, but this
for cooking. Onsen-tamago, hot spring eggs, as the recipe is for a main course. The key formula is the ratio
name implies is where the eggs are cooked by sitting between the eggs and dashi broth, which is 1:3.
in warm water. This is a perfect healthy vegetarian
dish.

SERVES 4
200g mini chicken fillets, cut into bite-size pieces
SERVES 4 2 tablespoons sake
4 very fresh eggs Ya teaspoon salt
20 asparagus spears, trimmed 4 shiitake mushrooms
Y2 teaspoon salt 4 large tiger prawns
4 teaspoons soy sauce 120g broccoli, cut into small bite-size pieces
2 teaspoons white toasted sesame seeds
FOR THE EGG MIX
4 eggs, lightly beaten
lf the eggs are kept in the fridge, take them out 20-30 600ml Dashi (see page 29)
minutes before you begin cooking. 4 teaspoons light soy sauce

Place 1 litre of water in a saucepan, bring to the boil

and remove from the heat. Add 200ml of cold water Season the chicken with half the sake and the salt. Cut
and stir. and discard the stems off the mushrooms and slice the
caps into 4. Slit along the back of the prawns, remove
Put the eggs in the pan, cover with a lid and leave for the black veins and season with the remaining sake.
12 minutes.
Combine the egg mix ingredients and pass through a
Meanwhile, steam the asparagus for 3-5 minutes and sieve to make a completely smooth mixture.
sprinkle with the salt. Divide the asparagus between
4 plates, sprinkle with the soy sauce and sesame seeds Put the chicken, broccoli and mushrooms in a
and loosely cover with cooking foil to keep warm. microwave-proof bowl (I use a dish 18cm in diameter
and 9cm deep), pour in the egg mix, stir to ensure the
Remove the eggs from the pan and wait for 3 minutes chicken is not lumped together. Pop any air bubbles.
before cracking open over the asparagus and serve.
Loosely cover with a lid or cling film and place ina
microwave. It is difficult to be precise on timing but,
as a rough guide, cook for 5-8 minutes (400kw).
Carefully remove the cling film. It should be beginning
to set around the edges with a white skin forming on
the surface. If it is still runny, replace the lid and cook
for another minute. Add the prawns, replace the lid
and microwave for 10-12 minutes. Divide between
4 individual warmed soup dishes and serve.

MAIN COURSES 16/7

JAPANESE-STYLE DUCK ORANGE

The famous French dish has been adapted with the Peel the radish and cut it in half lengthways, then slice
addition of classic Japanese ingredients, yuzu juice very thinly into half moons with a Japanese mandoline
and refreshing giant white radish. (or use a very steady hand and a sharp knife). Soak in
cold water for 10 minutes, then drain. Put the radish,
along with the mizuna, in the refrigerator to chill.

SERVES 4 For the dressing, put the sake in a small saucepan over
400g daikon, giant white radish a high heat to burn off the alcohol then mix with the
100g mizuna or rocket remaining dressing ingredients and set aside to cool.
4 x 140-160g duck breasts, skin on
Trim off any excess fat from the duck breasts then with
4 teaspoons salt
a very sharp knife, lightly score through the skin taking
vegetable oil, to grease
care not to cut into the flesh. Rub the salt into the skin.
FOR THE CITRUS DRESSING
Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over a medium
4 tablespoons sake
heat and brush with a scant amount of oil. Place the
2 tablespoons clear honey
duck in the pan, skin side down, and cook for 6-8
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
minutes to render the fat while spooning the fat over
2 tablespoons yuzu or lime or satsuma juice
the flesh. Then turn over to cook the other side for 3-5
minutes.

Remove the duck from the pan then pour boiling water
over to wash off the fat and pat dry. Put the duck on a
wire rack, skin side up, and cover loosely with a piece of
foil. Leave to rest for about 5 minutes. Do not wrap the
duck tightly otherwise the crispy skin will go limp.

Take the radish and mizuna from the refrigerator and

divide between 4 individual serving plates.

Place the duck, skin side down, on a chopping board

and cut each breast into 4-6mm thick slices. Arrange
the slices on the top of the vegetables, drizzle the citrus
dressing over and serve.

168 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 DASHI-ROLLED OMELETTE
DASHI-MAKI TAMAGO

This soft, succulent, dashi-infused omelette makes

a delicious and healthy main dish. It is helpful if you
have a square or rectangular Japanese omelette pan
but a regular round pan can be used — simply cut off
the round edges after cooking.

MAKES 4 ROLLS
12 eggs
480ml Primary or Vegetarian Dashi (see page 29)
1 tablespoon mirin
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
Ya teaspoon salt
2 tablespoon vegetable oil for cooking
about 200g daikon, grated white radish, grated and
lightly drained
2 tablespoons soy sauce

In a large bowl mix the dashi, mirin, light soy sauce and
salt until the salt dissolves. In a separate bowl, lightly
beat the eggs and add them to the dashi mixture.
Roughly combine, but don’t over mix — you should still
be able to see some whites. Divide the egg mixture
into four portions.

Place the omelet pan over a medium heat and lightly

oil the pan with folded kitchen paper. Heat the pan
then drop a spoonful of the egg mixture to test the
temperature — if it sizzles a little, the pan is ready.

Ladle about one-third of the egg mixture (from one

portion) into the pan and quickly spread to thinly
cover the surface. Cook over a medium heat until the
surface begins to set, then fold towards you in quarter
sections using either chopsticks or spatula. Don't worry
too much if your first folding is not perfect — it won't
show. Push the folded omelette to the far end of the
pan and re-oil the exposed surface of the pan. Ladle
in another third of the egg mixture and gently lift the
folded omelette to allow the egg mixture to get under
it to cover the entire pan surface. When the egg begins

170 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 LEMONY CHICKEN
TERIYAKI!

to set, fold it towards you in quarters with the first roll Because teriyaki sauce is so versatile, it is tempting
at the centre. If you are using a square pan, shape the to use it on almost everything. So here is a slight
omelette by gently pressing it against the side of the variation.
pan. Repeat the process — re-oil, add the last third egg
mixture, cook and fold.

Remove the omelette from the pan onto a bamboo SERVES 4

rolling mat placed on a chopping board. Wrap the 4 x 160-180g chicken breasts, skin on
omelette with the rolling mat and gently press to shape 4 tablespoons plain flour
while it is warm — a traditional shape is rectangular 1 large green pepper
brick but you may choose round cylindrical. Keep the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
omelette wrapped in the rolling mat while you repeat zest and juice of 1 lemon
the whole process to make 3 more rolls.
FOR THE TERIYAKI SAUCE

Mix the radish grate with the soy sauce. 200ml sake
200ml mirin
Cut each omelette into about 1.5cm thick slices and
4 tablespoons soy sauce
arrange on individual serving plates and put about a
tablespoonful of mound of soy/radish on the side and
serve at room temperature. About 30 minutes before you begin cooking, take the
chicken breasts out of the refrigerator and let them
come to room temperature.

Lightly dust the chicken breasts with flour. Cut the

pepper into quarters, deseed and remove the white
membrane inside, then cut each quarter into 3 strips.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Cook
the chicken, skin side down, for 5-7 minutes or until light
brown and well sealed, then turn over and cook the other
side for a further 5 minutes. Clean around the chicken with
scrunched up kitchen paper to soak up any excess oil.

Add all the sauce ingredients to the pan, let it just come
to the boil and then adjust the heat to maintain the just
boil for about 5 minutes. Add the pepper strips when the
sauce begins to thicken, while shaking the pan constantly
to coat the peppers with the sauce for 2-3 minutes. Just
before turning off the heat add the lemon zest and juice
then shake the pan to evenly mix the sauce.

Transfer the chicken and pepper strips to 4 warmed

individual plates and let the chicken rest for about
5 minutes. Spoon the teriyaki sauce over the chicken
and serve.

eat ee

MAIN COURSES |/7|

SOY-SIMMERED CHICKEN RICE VINEGAR
TORINO SEOYUNI SIMMERED CHICKEN
TORINIKU NO SUNI
Chicken drumsticks can be tough to eat, so this gentle
simmering in soy based broth is ideal. | often add a few drops of vinegar to simmered dishes
at the end of the cooking to sharpen the flavour.
Here, vinegar is added from the start but the finished
SERVES 4 dish does not taste vinegary because the cooking
400g daikon, giant white radish or parsnips, peeled transforms it into refreshing clean umami.
8 chicken drumsticks
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
1 red chilli, slit lengthways and deseeded SERVES 4
8 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons mirin 8 chicken thigh fillets, weighing 120-150g, skin on
4 spring onions, green parts only 1 red chilli, slit lengthways and deseeded
200g broccoli, cut in large bite-size chunks 200m! sake
200ml rice vinegar
Cut the radish in half lengthways then into 2.5-3cm 50ml mirin
thick half-moons. With a small knife, bevel the edges so 50ml soy sauce
that they look neat and don't crumble during cooking. 2 spring onions, green parts only
200g cauliflower, cut into bite-size chunks
Bring a large saucepan of water to a rapid boil then 20 sugar snap peas or mangetouts
submerge the chicken and parboil it for 2-3 minutes or
until the skin and flesh turn pale. Transfer to a bowl of
cold water, drain and pat dry. Sprinkle the salt over the chicken and leave to sweat for
10-15 minutes then pat dry with kitchen paper.
At the same time, put the radish in a saucepan of water
over a medium heat, sirmmer for 10 minutes, then drain. Place a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot,
add the chicken, skin side down, pressing to make as
Put the kelp at the bottom of a saucepan and place the much contact with the pan as possible, and cook for
chicken, radish and red chilli on top. Add 500m! water, 5-8 minutes or until the skin turns golden. Reduce the
the soy sauce and mirin and bring to just boiling over a heat slightly, then cook the other side for a further 3-5
medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the spring minutes. Remove from the pan, pour over boiling water
onions and simmer gently for 25-30 minutes skimming to wash off any fat then pat dry with kitchen paper.
off any scum that floats to the surface.
Put the chicken in a large saucepan with the chilli, sake,
Meanwhile, steam or boil the broccoli for 3-5 minutes. vinegar, mirin, soy sauce and 200ml water, and bring to
Drain then sprinkle a tiny pinch of salt to refresh the the boil. As it reaches the boil, add the spring onions,
colour. Keep warm. then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn
Divide and arrange the chicken and radish between off the heat, remove the chilli and spring onions and
4 individual serving dishes. Put the broccoli between leave the chicken in the cooking juice.
the chicken and radish, ladle over an ample amount of Meanwhile, steam or boil the cauliflower and sugar
cooking broth without the spring onions and serve. snaps and keep warm. Divide the chicken between 4
dishes, arrange the vegetables on top, spoon on the
cooking juices and serve.

Sisrirrrrrnrrnrs
nr rs

MAIN COURSES !73

SOY-MARINATED ROAST CHICKEN

Because there are no recipes for roasting a whole Prepare the soy marinade by mixing all the ingredients
chicken or a joint of meat in traditional Japanese in a large non-metallic dish or bowl that is roomy
cooking, there is no Japanese name for this dish. This enough to easily fit the chicken. Put the chicken in the
is because Japanese food is always designed and dish and turn to well coat in the marinade. Slightly
served to be eaten with a pair of chopsticks. Up until loosen the skin of the breasts by gently sliding your
recently, most Japanese home kitchens did not even hand under the breast:skin from the neck opening,
have ovens unless you count microwave ovens. For and spoon the marinade under the skin and inside the
this recipe, you will need to start the day before for cavity. Cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight
overnight marinating. But you will be richly rewarded turning over occasionally for even marinating.
for the little extra preparation.
Take the chicken out of the refrigerator 45-60 minutes
before you intend to cook it so that it can come to
room temperature. Preheat the oven to 190°C/gas
SERVES 4 mark 5. Remove the chicken from the dish, but reserve
FOR THE CHICKEN the marinade for later, and place on a rack set over
2kg whole chicken a roasting tin. Stuff the cavity with the garlic and pour
1 whole garlic bulb, cut in half horizontally 500ml of water into the base of the tin.
1 teaspoon salt Sprinkle the chicken with the salt and sugar then place
1 teaspoon soft brown sugar in the oven to roast for 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour
FOR THE SOY MARINADE 30 minutes or until the juices run clear when a skewer is
100ml soy sauce pierced through the thickest part of the thigh. Remove
50ml mirin from the oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes before
50mlI sake carving.
Z tablespoons white miso
Meanwhile, put the reserved marinade with any roasting
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
juices left in the tin in a small saucepan and bring to
1 teaspoon sesame oil
a rapid boil for 8-10 minutes or until reduced slightly.
Carve the chicken and serve with the sauce on the side.

174 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PORK

It may come as a surprise to many, including Japanese bacon, ham and canned. Then in 1922 an eatery in
people themselves, but pork is the most eaten meat the downtown Asakusa district of Tokyo introduced
in the country — nearly as much pork is consumed as tonkatsu, deep-fried breaded pork cutlet, which was
chicken and beef combined. an instant hit and the dish was a major contributory
factor to pork becoming the most preferred meat of
Pork and the Japanese go back a long way, already in
the nation.
the pre-historic Jamon period (12000-400 sc) Japanese
people were eating wild boar and early immigrants During the 1960s, as Japan became more affluent
from the Korean peninsula were farming boar in the there was an increased demand for pork, and so
early 7th century — the dawn of pig-farming in Japan. larger breeds such as Large White Hampshire and
However, when Buddhism arrived in the early 6th Landrace were introduced from America and Europe
century and spread, meat eating was banned for the and crossbred with the existing middle-sized Yorkshire
next 1200 years. The first imperial decree was passed and Berkshire. There was also a dramatic change from
in 675 av prohibiting the killing of cattle, horses, dogs, medium to large-scale pig-farming. However, more
monkeys and chickens for eating, and several more recently the emphasis has shifted from quantity to
banning orders were to follow, extending to a wider quality and older breeds especially kuro-buta, the black
range of animals and birds. Even fishing was stopped pig farmed in Kydsht is making a comeback.
in 752 ad when the giant statue of Buddha was erected
The main health benefits of pork is in its high content
in Tédaiji temple in Nara. Although pigs were never
of vitamin B1 (10 times more than beef). Vitamin B1
listed in the prohibition, pig-farming disappeared
plays a vital role in helping the body to convert sugar
except in the remote parts of southern KyUshU and the
into energy. The lack of the vitamin can result in lost
island of Okinawa, which were then separate kingdoms.
concentration, tiredness and even mood swings.
Today, both regions are renowned for high-quality pork
Cooking pork with garlic, onions, leeks or chives, all
and their regional pork dishes.
of which are rich in allicin, helps the body to absorb
In 1609, Japan began trading with the Dutch and vitamin B1 effectively and converts sugar into energy.
pig-farming was re-established to meet small
demands from the foreign traders. However, livestock
farming, including pig-farming, re-started in earnest
in the Meiji era (1867-1912) when the meat eating
prohibition was finally lifted in 1872 and the Emperor
Meiji set an imperial example to the nation by eating
beef at the New Year celebration. The middle-sized
Yorkshire and Berkshire pigs were imported from
England as they were thought to be most suited to
the farming conditions in Japan. However, pigs were
fed on discarded foods from restaurants or household
leftovers rather than corn and therefore, pig farms were
often located near urban areas and remained relatively
small. Pork was mainly eaten in processed forms like

176 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PAN-FRIED PORK CHOPS JAPANESE-STYLE ROSTI
WITH GINGER WITH SOY PORK
OR THICKCUTS)
Here is a Swiss classic with a Japanese twist.
When pan-frying thick cuts it’s important to let the
meat rest for 10 minutes to allow the juices to evenly
distribute before serving.
SERVES 4
400g pork loin, roughly chopped
4 tablespoons sake
SERVES 4 4 tablespoons soy sauce
600g waxy potatoes (such as Maris Peer or Desiree),
FOR THE PORK AND VEGETABLES
peeled
1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 x 150g pork chops, at room temperature
2 teaspoons cornflour
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
12 French breakfast radishes, cleaned and trimmed
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
salt
120g mangetout
12 asparagus spears
200g baby potatoes, halved and cooked Put the pork in a bowl with the sake and soy sauce. Leave
1 lemon, cut in 4 wedges, to serve to marinate for 10-15 minutes.

FOR THE SAUCE Shred the potatoes with a Japanese mandoline or a

6 tablespoons sake grater over a large bowl of cold water and then rinse
6 tablespoons mirin away any excess starch. Drain the shreds and spread over
6 tablespoons soy sauce a clean tea towel, then roll up and press gently to blot
away excess water. Unroll the tea towel and put
the shreds in a large bowl with 2 tablespoons of the oil
Sprinkle the salt all over the pork and set aside for 15
and mix.
minutes then wash off and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Squeeze the pork of any excess marinade and coat with
Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a high
the cornflour.
heat. When almost smoking hot, sear the pork for 3-5
minutes on each side. Take the pan off the heat and Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a 24cm non-stick frying pan
remove any excess oil with kitchen paper. Pour in the over a medium heat and spread over half of the potato
sauce ingredients. When the juice stops bubbling shreds. Spread the pork evenly over the first layer then
return the pan to a gentle heat, add the ginger, shake cover with the rest of the potato, as evenly as possible.
the pan to mix evenly and cook for another 5-8 minutes
Drizzle the rest of oil over the rdsti and turn over after
on each side.
15-20 minutes or when the base has become golden
Remove from the heat and let the pork rest in the pan and crisp. You can either flip it like a pancake (if you are
for 10 minutes. brave enough) or by placing a similar diameter plate over
the pan, turn it over then carefully slide the rosti back into
Meanwhile, steam or boil the mangetout for 2-3
the pan to cook the other side for 12-15 minutes.
minutes and asparagus for 5-8 minutes. To serve,
arrange a pork chop with a portion of vegetables on 4 Remove from the pan onto a chopping board.
plates and spoon over the sauce. Serve with a lemon Sprinkle with some salt and cut into 4 and serve with
wedge on the side. 3 radishes each.

SauercE

MAIN COURSES !77

QUICK-SIMMERED PORK BELLY
BUTA NO KAKUNI

The authentic recipe for this popular pork dish takes

practically two days to prepare, which isn’t realistic for
busy home cooks. So here is a relatively quick version
but the result is nearly as tender as the original.
Patient, slow frying and rinsing ensures a rich but not
greasy pork dish.

SERVES 4
600g pork belly, cut into 4-5cm cubes
Y2 tablespoon vegetable oil
40g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
400m! Dashi (see page 29)
4 tablespoons sake
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons mirin
4 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornflour mixed with 2 tablespoons
water
4 teaspoons English mustard

Put the oil a large frying pan (large enough for the pork When the cooking juices have reduced to about half,
to sit in one layer) and add the pork skin side down. take the pork out with a slotted spoon. Increase the
Turn on the heat to a medium-low and slowly fry for heat to high and further reduce the cooking juice
15-20 minutes, or until the fat begins to render and the without the foil lid until reduced by a quarter. Add the
pork starts to turn pale brown. Turn over and continue cornflour mixture to thicken. Then return the pork to
to cook on each side until pale brown all over. coat in the sauce.
Transfer the pork to a sieve and rinse under hot running Divide the pork between 4 deep-sided dishes or bowls
water to wash off all excess fat, then drain. and garnish with a dab of mustard on top and serve.
Wipe the pan clean with scrunched kitchen paper,
then return the pork to the pan, in one layer, and add
the ginger, dashi, sake, sugar, mirin and soy sauce.
Bring to the boil over a high heat then reduce to low
and simmer for 1-1% hours. Cut a sheet of foil slightly
smaller than the diameter of the pan and place loosely
on the surface of the pork while simmering (or use a
drop lid, see page 134).

178 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PAN-FRIED PORK LOIN WITH GINGER (FOR THIN CUTS)

Rules for cooking meat differ depending on the SERVES 4

thickness. For thin cuts, seasoning with cooking juice FOR THE PORK AND VEGETABLES
should be kept brief and massaging with your hands 600g thinly sliced pork loin or thin steaks
is sufficient because marinating for a long time does 8 baby sweetcorn
not add any more flavour and only hardens the meat. 160g broccoli, cut into bite-size chunks
Second, cooking juices should be squeezed or patted 160g cauliflower, cut into bite-size chunks
dry with kitchen paper before cooking in a hot pan Y2 teaspoon salt
because leaving cooking juice on the meat adds to the 2 teaspoons vegetable oil
cooking time. Thirdly, cooking time should be kept to
FOR THE SAUCE
a minimum at a high temperature.
6 tablespoons sake
6 tablespoons mirin
6 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

Take the pork out of the refrigerator to let it come to

room temperature at least 30 minutes before you start
cooking because fridge-cold meat takes longer to cook.

Put the pork on a chopping board and pound with a

rolling pin to thin and tenderise it, then cut into about 3
x 4cm slices.

Put the vegetables in a steaming basket, sprinkle with

salt and steam for 2-3 minutes then keep warm.

Combine the sauce ingredients in a bowl, then add

the pork. With your hands, briefly knead the meat as
if massaging it. Squeeze out as much of the sauce as
possible then spread the pork over kitchen paper and
pat dry, reserving the sauce for later.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat and
add the pork to quickly brown on one side for 3-5
minutes. Turn the pork over and cook for 2-3 minutes or
until it is completely browned then pour in the reserved
sauce and shake the pan to coat the meat. When the
sauce starts to bubble, turn off the heat immediately.

To serve, portion the pork between 4 individual serving

plates and arrange the vegetables and spoon the sauce
over the pork.

180 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PORK DUMPLINGS
GYOZA

This is another example of a Chinese-origin food that Start by preparing the dipping sauce. Mix all of the
has been adopted and adapted to become a popular ingredients together in a bowl and set aside.
dish on Japanese menus. Gy6za skins can be obtained
Cut and discard the hard cores of the cabbage and slice
from Japanese or Asian grocery stores, they usually
into fine shreds. Sprinkle the salt over then mix and set
come frozen in packs of 24.
aside for about 10 minutes, or until the cabbage wilts.
Drain and finely chop. Soak the shiitake mushrooms in
a bowl of warm water for about 10 minutes or until soft,
SERVES 4 reserve the liquid, discard the stems and finely chop the
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE caps.
80ml soy sauce In a large mixing bowl, place the cabbage, mushrooms,
60ml rice vinegar pork, garlic, ginger and spring onions with the soy
few drops of sesame oil sauce, sake, sesame oil, pepper and cornflour and mix
few drops of chilli oil
well with your hands.
FOR THE DUMPLINGS
To form dumplings, hold a gy6za skin in your left palm
1 teaspoon salt
and put about a large teaspoonful of the pork mixture
200g pointed head cabbage or Savoy cabbage
onto the centre of the skin. Dip a pastry brush in the
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
reserved mushroom liquid and moisten the edge of
200g lean minced pork
the skin, then fold the skin over the filling into a half-
3 garlic cloves, crushed
moon shape. Press firmly to seal the edges together
3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
by making small pleats. Repeat the process with the
2 spring onions, finely chopped
remaining skins.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sake Heat about 1 tablespoon of oil in a large frying pan
2 teaspoons sesame oil over a medium heat. Place the gy6oza in circle in the
Ya teaspoon ground white pepper pan and cook for 5-8 minutes or until lightly browned
2 tablespoons cornflour on one side then turn over with a spatula. Pour about
24 gydza skins 120ml of water over the gydza and immediately cover
vegetable oil, for cooking with the lid to steam for 2-3 minutes. You may do this
in 2-3 batches depending on the size of frying pan you
use. Keep cooked gy6za warm in the oven at the lowest
setting.

Serve on a large platter or 4 individual plates with small

dishes of the dipping sauce at the side.

COOK’S TIP
| often make gy6za in large quantities and freeze some
as they can be cooked directly from frozen. The cooking
method is the same as above, just increase the time to
8-10 minutes for browning and 5-8 minutes steaming.

182 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

PORK AND WHITE RADISH STEW
BUTANIKU TO DAIKON NO KONBUNI

Pork contains ten times more vitamin B1 than beef, Cut the radish into 2.5cm thick rings, then into
which helps to resolve carbohydrate into sugar and half-moon pieces and bevel the edges for a neater
converts into energy. B1 is a vital nutrient to maintain appearance as straight edges are likely to crumble
brain health and concentration and to help fatigue during simmering. Cut the pork into 2.5cm cubes.
recovery. This slow-cooked stew is great comfort food
Put the radish pieces in a saucepan and cover with
on dark winter nights. Serve with crusty bread or plain
water. Cook over a high heat and when the water
boiled rice.
begins to boil, with small bubbles rising to the surface,
add the pork and parboil for about 5 minutes or until
the pork is creamy white.
SERVES 4
400g daikon, giant white radish Drain the pork and radish and rinse off any scum under
600g pork belly running hot water then drain.
2 postcard-size pieces of dried kelp, insertions made
Place the kelp in a casserole, add the radish and pork
for better infusion
and the remaining ingredients along with 800ml of
1 onion, cut into 3mm thick rings
water then cook over a medium heat. Do not let it reach
4 tablespoons sake
a rapid boil but reduce the heat to low to simmer gently
3 tablespoons light soy sauce
for about 1 hour.
1 tablespoon sugar
English mustard, to serve Divide between 4 individual dishes, without the kelp,
and serve with a dab of mustard on the side.

184 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SLOW-ROAST PORK BELLY
WITH FUJI APPLE SAUCE

Although roasting a large joint of meat is not typically Preheat the oven to 240°C/gas mark 9. Score the pork
part of Japanese cooking, pork belly is wonderful skin, taking care not to cut into the flesh. Drizzle 2
for roasting and easy carving. Slow-cooking ensures teaspoons of the oil all over the skin and rub in the salt.
tender, yet not at all greasy results. Fuji apples were
originally developed in Aomori prefecture, the region Grease a roasting tin with the remaining oil and add
renowned for apples, in 1936 and introduced to the all the vegetables. Sit the pork on top and place on
market in the 1960s. They are sweet, aromatic and
the top shelf of the oven for 15-20 minutes. Carefully
crisp and hold together well during cooking. take the roasting tin out of the oven and reduce the
temperature to 160°C/gas mark 3. While you wait for the
oven to reach the correct temperature, let the roasting
tin stand to cool down a little before pouring in the
SERVES 4-6
sake and 200m! of water. Return the tin to the middle
1—-1.2kg boneless pork belly joint, skin on shelf of the oven and cook for a further 3 hours.
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt or salt flakes Meanwhile, prepare the apple sauce. Put all the
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped ingredients in a saucepan with 50ml of water and cook
1 parsnip, peeled and roughly chopped over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 20-30
1 leek, trimmed and roughly chopped minutes or until the apples are soft but not mushy —
4 garlic cloves, bruised they should still hold their shape. Adjust the seasoning
200ml sake with sugar and salt if needed and set aside.
1 tablespoon cornflour mixed with 1 tablespoon water When the pork is cooked, remove from the oven and
salt and freshly ground black pepper transfer to a carving board. Cover loosely with foil and
FOR THE APPLE SAUC IT rest for 10-15 minutes before carving.
2 Fuji apples or 4 Gala apples, peeled and diced
While the meat is resting, tip the vegetables and juices
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger and its juice
from the roasting tin into a fine-meshed sieve placed
100ml mirin over a bowl. Press down to extract as much flavour and
2 tablespoons rice vinegar juice as possible using a wooden spoon. You should
sugar and salt, to taste have about 150ml of liquid. Allow the liquid to sit for
10-15 minutes so that the fat separates. Spoon off
as much fat from the surface as possible as discard.
Transfer into a saucepan and heat over a medium
COOK’S TIP heat then stir in the cornflour mixture and bring to a
If you can’t find Fuji apples, use Gala instead
gentle boil for about 2 minutes to thicken. Adjust the
seasoning to taste.

Carve the pork into chunky slices and serve with the
gravy and apple sauce.

MAIN COURSES 185

DEEP-FRIED PORK
TONKATSU

Tonkatsu, deep-fried breaded pork cutlet, is one of Start by making breadcrumbs (ready-made panko,
the most popular meat dishes in Japan. Like tempura, Japanese breadcrumbs, are available but home-made
another famous deep-fried dish, it was originally are infinitely better and cheaper) by breaking each slice
imported from the West but has been modified. In of bread into smaller pieces. Spread the pieces out on
Japan, it is normally served with a generous amount of a baking tray and leave'to dry for about 10-15 minutes.
finely shredded raw cabbage. It is also accompanied When they are semi-dry, rub between your palms to
by tonkatsu sauce, a thick brown sauce, based on crumble. Place the crumbs in a shallow dish.
Worcestershire sauce, which is available ready-made
Meanwhile, prepare the tonkatsu sauce. Lightly toast
in bottles, or you can make your own by following the
the sesame seeds, transfer to a mortar and grind to
recipe below.
form a coarse paste. Put the paste in a mixing bowl,
add the rest of the ingredients, mix well and set aside.

Season the pork with salt and pepper. Make some

SERVES 4
incisions in the meat between the pink lean part and
FORMRE PORK white fat — this is tendon which will tighten when
6 slices white bread, crusts removed cooked. Lightly dust the pork with flour.
4 x 120-150g slices of pork loin or tenderloin, about
5mm thick Put the eggs in a shallow dish, pierce the pork on one
100g plain flour end with a bamboo skewer or fork and dip the slices in
2 eggs, lightly beaten the egg, coating both sides of each piece. Transfer the
1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying pork to the breadcrumbs and coat on both sides.
salt and freshly ground black pepper Heat the oil to 170°C in a heavy-based saucepan or a
FOR THE TONKATSU SAUCE (OPTIONAL) deep-sided frying pan over a medium heat. You may
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds want to pre-heat the oven at its lowest setting to keep
1 tablespoon caster sugar the cooked pork warm. Carefully submerge one or
3 tablespoons tomato ketchup two breaded pork slices into the oil to deep-fry for
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 6-8 minutes, or until the surface turns golden yellow
1 tablespoon soy sauce turning once or twice. Lift the pork out of the oil with
cooking chopsticks or a pair of tongs holding it almost
TO SERVE
vertically while keeping its fat-side in the oil for 10
600g pointed head or flat cabbage, finely shredded
seconds, giving the fat a slightly longer deep-frying
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges
while draining the rest. Place on a wire rack to drain
mustard, optional
and keep warm in the oven while you cook the rest.
plain boiled rice
To serve, divide and place the cabbage in large mounds
between 4 individual plates. Cut the pork crosswise into
bite-size slices if you plan on eating it with chopsticks.
If you are using knife and fork, do not bother to cut it.
Arrange the pork resting against the cabbage, serve
with a wedge of lemon and a dab of mustard on the
side if you like. The sauce may be poured over the pork
and cabbage or served in small dishes for dipping.

186 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 BEEF JAPANESE-STYLE STEAK
WITH ONION-MISO SAUCE

In Japan, beef has been eaten for less than 150

years, yet Japanese beef, wagyd, has a worldwide The sauce can be made in advance, will keep for 3-4
reputation for quality. Native cattle have long been days and is great to use as a dip with vegetable sticks.
used as a labour force; with their small bodies it was
easy for them to move around the rice fields. When
the 1200-year prohibition of eating meat was finally
lifted in 1872 larger foreign breeds were imported SERVES 4

and cross-bred with the native cattle to produce four FORM iE Si AK

official breeds of wagyt : Black, which accounts for 4 x 150-200g, 2.5-3cm thick, rump or sirloin steaks
over 90%, Brown, Shorthorn and No-horn. 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
A piece of beef is not genuine wagyd unless it comes
from one of these four breeds, was born and bred — FOR THE ONION-MISO SAUCE
in Japan and conforms to strict criteria. Wagyu is 4 tablespoons medium-coloured miso
a registered brand name, but only in Japan and is 4 tablespoons sake
neither recognised nor protected elsewhere. Most 1 tablespoon soy sauce
so-called wagyu beef sold outside Japan is not pure 15g fresh ginger, grated
wagyU but is most likely to be ‘percentage wagyt’, 1 small garlic clove, grated
so strictly speaking should be labelled ‘wagyu-style’. 4-6 spring onions, green parts only, finely chopped

Another commonly misused term is Kobe-beef. HWOISERVE

Kobe-beef is a type of wagyd but wagyt beef is 200g mix salad of rocket and watercress
not necessarily Kobe-beef, which is a registered
brand name and comes from the Tajima strain of Take the meat out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes
Japanese black cattle. But bloodline is not the only before you intend to cook and allow it to come to room
requirement. In addition to being pure Tajima, it temperature .
has to come from a heifer or steer that was born,
Mix together the ingredients for the onion-miso sauce.
raised and slaughtered within the Hydgo prefecture
of which Kobe is the capital city. Furthermore, its Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat.
marbling has to be above a certain grade and have Season the steaks with salt and pepper just before
a gross carcass weight of 470kg or less. With a mere putting in the pan and sear for 2-3 minutes on each
herd of 3,000 certified beef cattle in existence, all in side. Remove the stakes and set aside on a chopping
Japan, it is no wonder this beef is so highly prized. board, loosely covered with foil, and rest for about 10
minutes. Meanwhile, reduce the heat to low and add
Wagyd beef is characterised by its intense marbling
the onion-miso mixture, then stir and warm through.
that melts at low temperatures, giving a melt-in-
Cut the steaks into 5mm thick slices.
your-mouth feel. The meat is prized for its smooth
velvety texture, juicy flavour and delicate yet rich Divide the salad mix between 4 individual serving
taste. These unique characteristics are created by the plates. Arrange the steak slices on the salad, spoon the
large proportion of amino acids (the basis of umami) onion-miso sauce over and serve.
and unsaturated fat. Wagyu takes time to grow into
beef cattle and as raising them is labour intensive it's
not suited for mass industrial scale farming, hence
expensively priced.

188 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

JAPANESE-STYLE BURGERS
WAFU HANBAGA

These burgers are light yet full of flavour. The key Put all the burger ingredients in a large bowl and
to the lightness is in the mixing technique and the mix well with your hands — try to be light handed to
steaming. The red soy sauce makes a tasty change to incorporate as much air as possible, as if you were
a usua! tomato ketchup. making pastry. Divide into 4 equal portions and
form into ovals.

Prepare the red soy sauce. In a small saucepan of

SERVES 4 boiling water, cook the carrot until soft and drain. Put
1 large onion, peeled and cut into 4 x 1cm thick rings the carrot, along with the remaining sauce ingredients,
2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a food processor and blitz until very smooth. Set
120g broccoli, broken into florets aside.
120g cauliflower, broken into florets
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium
FOR THE BURGERS heat and cook the onion rings until they are semi-
400g lean minced beef translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and
40g white bread, crusts removed and finely crumbled set aside.
4 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and finely
chopped Using the same frying pan, sear the burgers on both
2 medium-size onions, peeled and finely chopped sides over a high heat for 2-3 minutes on each side.
20g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped Soak up and remove any excess oil in the pan with
2 eggs, lightly beaten kitchen paper. Place the onion rings on top of the
burgers, add 4 tablespoons of water to the pan then
4 tablespoons soy sauce
Y2 teaspoon ground black pepper reduce the heat to low. Cover with a lid and steam cook
2 tablespoons cornflour for 8-10 minutes.

FOR THE RED SOY SAUCE While the burgers are cooking, bring a saucepan of
100g carrot, peeled and diced water to the boil. Add the broccoli and cauliflower
227g tin chopped tomatoes florets and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain and keep warm.
3 tablespoons mirin Transfer the burgers and onion rings onto 4 individual
6 tablespoons soy sauce serving plates. Arrange the broccoli and cauliflower
on the side, spoon the red soy sauce over the burger
and serve.

COOK’S TIP
Red soy sauce keeps for up to a week refrigerated.

I III.

MAIN COURSES 189

BEEF AND POTATO
NIKU-JAGA

You will not find this dish on restaurant menus, but it Cut the potatoes into large bite-size chunks, then rinse
is arguably one of the most popular homely dishes in in water and drain. Cut the onions in half lengthways,
Japan with a little naval history. It is said that a young then into 1cm slices.
naval cadet Heihachird Tég6 (who later became the
Heat the oil in a large saucepan. When hot, remove
most admired Japanese naval officer after defeating
from the heat and place on a cold damp cloth. Add the
nearly the entire Baltic fleet in the Russo-Japanese
meat when the oil stops sizzling —this will help make the
War, 1904-05, and is often compared with Horatio
pan non-stick.
Nelson) developed a taste for beef stew during his
stay in England while training with the Royal Navy in Return the pan to a medium heat and sauté the beef
the 1870s. On his return to Japan, Té6g6 ordered the for 3-5 minutes or until the colour of meat turns lighter
head chef in the navy to recreate beef stew to feed brown. Add the potatoes and onions and sauté while
his sailors. The chef, who had never eaten authentic shaking the pan for another 3-5 minutes.
beef stew nor could get the vital ingredient of red
Pour in the remaining ingredients along with 200ml of
wine but with only the admiral’s description to go
water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Reduce
on, had a little choice but to come up with his own
the heat to medium-high and continue to cook for
interpretation.
about 5 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to
the top.

Reduce the heat to very low and place a drop-lid (see

SERVES 4
page 134) on top then continue to simmer for 8-10
600g waxy potatoes, peeled (see Cook's tip)
minutes. Remove the lid, increase the heat to medium
2 onions, peeled
and cook for a further 5-7 minutes, or until the liquid
1% tablespoons vegetable oil
has reduced slightly.
400g rib-eye steak, cut into thin slices
200m! Dashi (see page 29) Remove from the heat and divide between 4 individual
4 tablespoons sake serving dishes, garnish with a pinch of cress and serve.
3 tablespoons sugar COOK'S TIP
1 tablespoon mirin
There is no golden rule on the choice of potato, and
4 tablespoons soy sauce
you may prefer to use a floury variety such as King
cress, to garnish
Edward or Maris Piper — they will crumble in cooking
and thicken the sauce.

Sn

MAIN COURSES 19!

JAPANESE-STYLE BEEF BOURGUIGNON

Based on the traditional French beef Bourguignon, Soak the mushrooms in 600m! of warm water for about
this adaptation includes smoky dried shiitake 10 minutes.
mushrooms, sake and rich earthy miso.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat
and brown the beef in small batches. Do not overcrowd
the pan otherwise the meat will not brown. While the
SERVES 4-6 beef is cooking, bring a large saucepan of water to the
6 dried shiitake mushrooms boil. Transfer the cooked beef into the saucepan and
2 tablespoons vegetable oil boil for 1 minute to remove excess oiliness and drain.
1kg stewing beef, cut into 4cm cubes
Squeeze the shiitake mushrooms and reserve the
100g lardons, or streaky bacon, chopped
liquid. Cut and discard the stems and cut the caps into
12 shallots, peeled
quarters. Using the same frying pan in which the beef
400ml sake
was cooked, add the lardons, shallots and mushrooms
3 tablespoons dark-coloured or red miso
and cook over a medium heat for a few minutes or until
2 tablespoons light or white miso
the shallots are lightly browned, then remove to a plate
2 tablespoons sugar
and set aside until later.
1 teaspoon sansho or Sichuan pepper
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger Put the beef with the mushroom juices and sake in a
3 tablespoons cornflour mixed with 3 tablespoons large saucepan then bring to the boil over a high heat.
water Reduce the heat to very low and simmer for 2 hours
a few spring onions, sliced on the diagonal, to garnish covered with a lid slightly askew.

When the beef is cooked and soft and the cooking

liquid has been reduced to about a third, add
both types of miso, the sugar, lardon, shallots and
mushrooms. Increase the heat to medium, bring just
to the boil and continue to cook for about 10 minutes.
Add the sansho pepper and ginger and stir well to mix.
Test the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Add the
cornflour mixture, stir and simmer for 2-3 minutes to
thicken the sauce and serve.

192 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

LAMB LAMB CHOPS WITH
SANSHO PEPPER
Sheep were not introduced into Japan until
relatively recently. Even after the meat-eating Sansho, Japanese pepper, is a small, prickly,
ban was lifted in the late 19th century and a large deciduous, native plant belonging to the mandarin
number of domestic animals, including sheep, family. Its seed pods are dried and ground and used
were imported from abroad during the 1870s to as seasoning for its aroma rather than peppery heat.
boost the domestic meat production, but the lack Although there is no true alternative, Sichuan pepper
of knowledge and Japan's warm and humid climate can be substituted.
resulted in a dismal failure of sheep-farming. The
main purpose of introducing sheep-farming was to
secure a domestic wool supply for military uniforms,
however farmers in Hokkaido, who kept a small SERVES4

flock of sheep, began to eat the meat. FOR

THE LAMB
8 lamb loin chops or cutlets, weighing 120-150g each
For the Japanese palate, lamb is too strongly
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
flavoured and fatty. It never caught on, even
after concerted efforts by both Australia and Y2 teaspoon sansho pepper, or Sichuan pepper
New Zealand who were looking for new export FOR THE SAUCE
destinations when Britain entered the old Common 3 tablespoons soy sauce
Market in 1973. Just to put it in context, the average 3 tablespoons mirin
Japanese person eats a mere 400g of lamb per year 1 tablespoon sake
compared to 8kg of beef, 15kg of pork and 11kg of 1 tablespoon sugar
chicken. The average annual lamb consumption in 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
Australia is 17.5kg per person | 1 tablespoon cornflour mixed with 1 tablespoon water
and 6.4kg in Britain.

Although lamb is not a popular choice in Japanese With a rolling pin or a meat mallet, gently pound the
cooking, as the meat is popular elsewhere | decided lamb chops to an even the thickness.
to list the following recipes which all have Japanese
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat and
twists.
brown the lamb for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to
a wire rack to let excess oil drip off, and loosely cover
with foil to keep warm.

Discard any oil left in the pan and scrape off any residue
stuck to the base. Pour in all the sauce ingredients,
except the cornflour mixture, and bring just to the
boil over a medium-high heat for 10-15 minutes, until
reduced by a third. Add the cornflour mixture, stirring
to thicken. Return the lamb to the pan and turn to coat
in the sauce. Sprinkle over the sansho pepper and
remove from the heat.

Arrange the lamb on individual serving plates, drizzle

over the cooking sauce and serve.

194. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

GENGHIS KHAN
JINGISUKAN

This famous regional dish from Hokkaiddis named Prepare the cooking sauce by putting all the
after the 12th century Mongol warrior, although the ingredients in a food processor then process until
dish holds no resemblance to Mongolian food and was smooth and set aside.
actually a 20th century Japanese invention. It all began
at the turn of the 20th century when the government Mix the two oils together, then heat half in a large frying
realised the need for home-grown wool for military pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and cook for
uniforms and encouraged farmers in Hokkaid6 to 5-8 minutes, or until softened, then add the cabbage

keep sheep, and the farmers gradually began eating and beansprouts and cook for 3-5 minutes. Season with
the meat. It was traditionally cooked on a concave salt and pepper. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm.
heavy cast-iron griddle with slits. This was heated at Add the rest of the oil mixture to a separate frying pan
the table and used to cook the lamb and vegetables, and place over a high heat. When the pan is almost
which were then eaten with dipping sauce. This recipe smoking hot add the lamb and cook for 2-3 minutes or
is adapted to be cooked in a frying pan instead. until just turning brown. Add about one quarter to one-
third of the sauce and stir to coat.

Divide the vegetables between 4 individual serving

SERVES 4 plates. Portion the meat into 4 and arrange on top of
FOR THE COOKING SAUCE the vegetables. Spoon the remaining cooking sauce
Y2 onion, peeled and roughly chopped onto the meat mounds. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over
Y2 apple, peeled and roughly chopped and serve.
2-3 garlic cloves COOK’S TIP
30g fresh ginger, peeled It is fiddly, but the thin root ends of beansprouts should
2 tablespoons clear honey be trimmed off as they taste dusty and have a stringy
100ml soy sauce texture.
FOR THE MEAT AND VEGETABLES
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
200g spring cabbage, cut into large bite-size pieces
200g beansprouts, trimmed
600g lamb steak, cut into thin slices
1 teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds, to serve
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Ii I O_O

MAIN COURSES 195

LAMB STEAKS WITH GRILLED AUBERGINE

Here | have matched a traditional Japanese method Preheat the grill to high. Prick the aubergines with the
of preparing and smoking aubergines with lamb, a tip of a knife or a skewer, then place under the grill and
meat not often seen on the Japanese table. The smoky cook for 15 minutes, turning regularly until the skin is
flavour of the aubergine is perfectly paired with the blackened and wrinkled and the flesh feels soft to the
strong-flavoured lamb. The number of aubergines is touch. Put them in a plastic bag, seal and leave until
based on average-size aubergines found in the West, cool enough to touch. With a bamboo skewer inserted
so adjust the amount if you are able to source smaller, just beneath the skin, slide along the length of the
slender ones that are similar to those sold in Japan. aubergines to remove all the blackened skin. Cut the
aubergine into 4cm long pieces and put in a bowl.

Combine all the ingredients for the soy-ginger sauce

SERVES 4 then pour over the aubergines and mix to coat. Cover
with foil to keep warm and set aside.
FOR THE MEAT AND VEGETABLES
2 aubergines Heat both oils in a large frying pan over a medium-high
1 tablespoon vegetable oil heat. Season the lamb with chilli powder and salt and
Ya teaspoon sesame oil pepper, then cook on each side for 2 minutes for rare
4 x 200g lamb steaks or a little longer if preferred. Transfer the lamb onto a
shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, to season chopping board and loosely cover with cooking foil to
salt and freshly ground black pepper keep warm, then rest for 5 minutes. Cut the steaks into
FOR THE SOY-GINGER SAUCE large, diagonal bite-size slices.
1 tablespoon rice vinegar Divide and arrange the lamb and aubergines between
2 tablespoons soy sauce 4 individual serving plates. Drizzle over any remaining
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger sauce from the aubergines and serve.

196 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

LAMB SHANK MISO-MARINATED
AND POTATO STEW RACKS OF LAMB

This unlikely marriage between a Japanese home Miso is not just for soups but has many other use
cooking of niku-jaga (see page 191) and an Irish lamb including marinating and preserving. It also renders
stew works deliciously well. meat very tender and flavoursome as well as removing
lamb’s strong smell.

SERVES 4
SERVES 4-6
800g waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks
4 x 350-400g lamb shanks 2 x 6-bone racks of lamb
1 tablespoon vegetable oil FOR THE MISO MARINADE
400ml sake 100g white miso
100m! soy sauce 100g medium-coloured miso
2 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons sake
200g carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks 2 tablespoons sugar
2-3 leeks, cleaned, trimmed and cut into 1.5cm thick 2 garlic cloves, grated or 1% tablespoons garlic purée
diagonal slices
FOR THE BREADCRUMB MIX
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
100g panko, Japanese breadcrumbs
salt and ground white pepper
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Bevel the edges of the potatoes by running a small 50g butter, melted
sharp knife along the sharp edges. This is to stop them salt and freshly ground black pepper
getting damaged during the cooking. Soak in cold
water briefly to wash off any excess starch and drain.
Trim any excess fat from around the bones of the lamb.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a
Prepare the miso marinade by mixing all the ingredients
medium heat, season the shanks with salt and pepper,
together. Spread the marinade over the meat part of
and brown all over for 10-15 minutes.
the racks. Place the meat in a non-metallic dish then
Cover the shanks with 1.5 litres of water, add the sake, cover tightly with cling film and refrigerate overnight.
soy sauce and sugar, then bring to the boil over a high
Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Combine all the
heat, skimming off any scum that rises to the top. Add
breadcrumb ingredients in a shallow dish and season.
the vegetables, partially cover with a lid slightly askew,
reduce the heat and simmer for 1% hours. With a clean damp cloth, wipe the bones of the racks to
remove excess miso marinade. Then, holding the racks
With a slotted spoon, carefully remove the lamb and
by the bone with one hand, wipe off any excess miso on
vegetables and keep warm while you reduce the
the meat with your other hand. Put the racks in the dish
cooking juice by about a third over a high heat. Add
of breadcrumbs, press down to evenly coat all over with
the rice vinegar and adjust the seasoning if required.
the crumbs.
To serve, divide the lamb and vegetables between
Place the racks together so that their bones interlock,
4 shallow bowls with a little of the cooking juice
then stand the racks upright in a small roasting tin.
spooned over.
Roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Remove
from the oven and rest for 10 minutes loosely covered
with foil before carving each rack in half to serve.

198 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

HOTPOTS NABEMONO

Warm friendship and conviviality are the keynote e Resist the temptation of using a whole range of your
of nabemono, hotpot meals. Nabemono, literally favourite ingredients but keep it simple and focus on
translates as ‘things-in-a-pot’ and refers to one-pot one key ingredient and its taste while others should
dishes cooked at the table, where diners do their own work to complement, not to compete.
cooking, choosing what they like from big plates of raw
e Since each ingredient requires different timing for
ingredients, and cooking it in a communal pot placed
cooking, cut vegetables and fish or meat into pieces of
at the centre of a table.
such a size that the overall cooking time is the same.
lf a Japanese person says to another, ‘Come and have Root vegetables such as daikon, giant white radish,
a nabe with me’, this is the ultimate expression of turnips and potatoes take relatively long cooking and
wanting to become friends. He/she is telling you that therefore, should be parboiled first.
they like you enough to dip their chopsticks into the
¢ Some ingredients like chicken exude fats and create
same pot and eat food with you. Japanese are quite
scum when simmered. Such ingredients therefore
hygiene-obsessed and formality-conscious people
should be parboiled beforehand so that the cooking
but when they want to make friends, they eat food
broth in the pot does not become foam-ridden.
together that is cooked in the same pot. Nabemono is
the utmost friendliest way of eating. NABEMONO FOR WESTERN DINERS
| have thought long and hard about how to make
It is not difficult to imagine how it began — it probably
this quintessentially Japanese table cooking more
derived from the soup kettle that used to hang over
accessible to non-Japanese cooks. The nabemono
the central open hearth, irori, in old farmhouses
setup can look intimidatingly elaborate - a simmering
where families and friends sat around and ate in
pot at the centre of a table, a large platter of
the olden days.
prepared ingredients beautifully laid out like a flower
Nabemono is popular throughout Japan — each region, arrangement, many dishes of condiments etc and
prefecture or even family has its own favourite recipes although it is fun to cook at the table, diners need to
using local and seasonal produce. For family dinners know when to take food out of a communal pot and
nabe is particularly suited to letting children participate eat. The timing of cooking is important and Japanese
in cooking. In fact, men who usually stay well away people know this almost instinctively as they would
from the kitchen suddenly want to take control and have had countless numbers of nabe evenings since
become nabe-bugy6, hotpot sheriffs, just like some a young age. After many attempts of nabe evenings
Western men at barbecues. at my home with non-Japanese friends | have always
ended up doing everything. So, | have therefore
A FEW RULES WHEN PREPARING HOTPOT MEALS:
adjusted several traditional recipes and instead of
e Use approximately twice the amount of vegetables
cooking at the table, the following recipes are to be
to fish and meat. This is for aesthetic as well as
prepared in the kitchen then taken to the table in a pot
balanced nutrition reasons.
for diners to serve themselves, just like a big pot of
e Select ingredients that harmonise in taste and comforting stew.
flavour. For example, for mild-flavoured fish such as
cod and sea bream, use vegetables with a similar
lightness like Chinese cabbage. For strong flavoured or
oily fish like tuna and salmon, use leeks and onions but
avoid celery which completely dominates other foods.

200 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

CHICKEN HOTPOT
TORI NO MIZUDAKI

The best way to describe this dish is as Japanese-style Start by preparing the broth by washing and rinsing the
pot-au-feu, after the famous French recipe. It is vital chicken carcass in water to get rid of any trace of blood,
to parboil the chicken in order for the cooking liquid then put in a large saucepan with the kelp, sake and 2
to remain clear. litres of water. Bring to the boil over a high heat. When
boiling, take the kelp out and reduce the heat to low,
then simmer for about 1 hour while skimming off any
scum that floats to the top. Strain the broth and discard
SERVES 4-6
the carcass.
FOR THE CHICKEN BROTH
Meanwhile, parboil the chicken slices for 2-3 minutes
1 fresh chicken carcass
in a pan of boiling water then transfer to a bowl of cold
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
water and drain.
2 tablespoons sake
FOR THE MEAT AND VEGETABLES
Put the chicken and broth in a large casserole or a
600g boneless skinless chicken thigh or breast, cut saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium-high
heat. When it begins to boil, reduce the heat to low
- into 1cm thick bite-size slices
and skim off any scum from the surface. Add all the
600g Chinese cabbage, cut into large bite-size pieces
vegetables, apart from the spring onions, to the
400g leeks, cut into 1.5cm thick diagonal slices
casserole and return to a gentle simmer for 15 minutes.
8 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
200g enoki mushrooms, base removed and separated At this point, you can either take the hotpot to the table
2 spring onions, finely chopped, to serve and let your guests serve themselves or, using a slotted
Citrus Soy Vinegar, ponzu (see page 51), for dipping spoon, divide between individual serving dishes.
Whichever way you choose, sprinkle the chopped
spring onions on top and offer the Citrus Soy Vinegar
for pouring over on the side.

COOK’S TIP
Leftover broth is very tasty and would be a shame to
waste. In Japan, it is customary to end hotpot meals
by adding cooked rice to the leftover broth to make
risotto. There should be about 1-1.5 litres of broth
left in the pot, add about 400g cooked rice, return to
the boil for a few minutes while stirring then pour in 2
beaten eggs and mix, adjust the seasoning with salt
and soy sauce to taste and serve.

MAIN COURSES 20!

COD HOTPOT
TARA-CHIRI-NABE

This is one of the standard hotpot dishes eaten in the Prepare the cooking broth by putting 1.2 litres of water
winter. In order to enjoy cod’s understated taste, keep in a casserole pot or a large saucepan with the kelp and
the other ingredients simple. sake, leave to infuse for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the,salt over the cod and stand

for 10 minutes. Blanch the cod in boiling water for 1-2
SERVES 4 minutes or until the colour begins to turn translucent
FOR THE COOKING BROTH
then transfer into iced water and drain.
2 postcard-size pieces of dried kelp Cut the tofu into 3cm square pieces and leave in cold
100ml sake water for about 10 minutes and drain — this prevents the
FOR THE FISH AND VEGETABLES tofu from clouding the cooking broth.
1 teaspoon salt Heat the broth over a medium-high heat and bring to
600g cod fillet, cut into large bite-size chunks the boil. When it begins to boil, remove the kelp, add
400g soft silken tofu the cod and leeks, return to the boil and skim off any
200g leeks, cut into 1cm thick diagonal slices scum that floats to the surface. Reduce the heat to low,
4 spring onions
cover with a lid and simmer for 10 minutes.
200g spinach, roughly chopped
Meanwhile, cut the spring onions into 5cm lengths and
TO:SERVE
very finely slice lengthwise. Soak in a bowl of cold water
Citrus Soy Vinegar, ponzu (see page 51), for dipping
for about 10 minutes or until they curl. Drain well.
shichimi-tégarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, optional
Add the spinach and tofu to the pot and let the broth
return to the boil for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the
heat and, using a slotted spoon, divide between 4
serving bowls, garnish with the spring onion curls and
serve with Citrus Soy Vinegar to pour over and chilli
powder on the side.

COOK’S TIPS
You may try this recipe with other white-flesh fish such
as sea bream or turbot. Also, why not finish the dinner
by adding cooked udon noodles to the broth instead
of cooked rice (see page 201). There should be about
1 litre of broth left in the pot. Cook 200g dried udon
noodles as described on page 77 and add to the pot.
Bring the pot to the boil over a medium heat, cook for
3-5 minutes and adjust the seasoning with mirin and
soy sauce if required.

202 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

MIXED HOTPOT TUNA HOTPOT
YOSESNABE NEGIMA-NABE

Yose means putting things together and, as the name The name of this hotpot is an abbreviation of negi,
implies, there is no fixed set of ingredients for this spring onion, and maguro, tuna. It is hard to believe
popular hotpot. but some 250 years ago when tuna was plentiful, fatty
belly of tuna was considered a cheap inferior cut while
residents of Edo, old Tokyo, prized the lean back part
for their favourite sushi. This dish was invented as a
SERVES 4-6
cheap food for ordinary people. | use leeks instead
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp
of the traditional spring onions because Japanese
1¥%2 teaspoons salt
spring onions are much larger than their Western
400g sea bream fillet, cut into bite-size pieces
counterparts and more similar to leeks.
200g boneless skinless chicken thighs or breast fillets,
cut into bite-size pieces
3 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons soy sauce SERVES 4
8 tiger prawns, shelled and de-veined 400g tuna steak
2 leeks, cut into 1cm thick diagonal slices 4 thin leeks
200g Chinese cabbage, cut into bite-size pieces 100ml sake
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 5mm thick slices 100ml soy sauce
8 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
4 tablespoons sugar
400g firm cotton tofu, cut into 3cm cubes shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, to serve

Put the kelp and 1.2 litres of water in a large casserole Cut the tuna into 1cm thick bite-size slices. Cut the
pot and leave to infuse for 30 minutes. leeks into 3cm long pieces.
Sprinkle % teaspoon of salt over the fish and leave Put the leeks, with the remaining ingredients and 400ml
to stand for 10 minutes. Parboil for 2-3 minutes and of water, in a casserole pot and bring to the boil over a
transfer into iced water and drain. medium-low heat. When the broth begins to boil, add
Bring another saucepan of water to the boil and parboil the tuna and cook for 3-5 minutes.
the chicken for 3-5 minutes or until the colour changes Divide between 4 individual serving bowls and serve
to opaque cream. Plunge into cold water then drain. with the seven-spice chilli powder on the side.
Add the mirin, soy sauce and 1 teaspoon of salt to VARIATION
the pot with the chicken and bring to the boil over
You may also try this recipe with yellowtail.
a medium-high heat. Remove the kelp and discard.
Scoop out any scum that floats to the surface. When
just boiling, reduce the heat to medium, add the fish,
prawns, vegetables and tofu then cover with a lid and
simmer for about 10 minutes.

To serve, either bring the pot to the table and let your
guests serve themselves or divide between 4 individual
bowls with some cooking broth.

204 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

NOODLE HOTPOT
UDON-SUKI

This noodle hotpot is one of the Osaka region's Put the kelp and dried shiitake mushrooms with 1.2
favourites and where people pride themselves as true litres of water in a large saucepan then leave to infuse
gourmets. The key to success is to use thick robust for 30 minutes.
udon noodles, or | found thick Tuscan pasta called pici
Bring a saucepan of water to the rapid boil then add
also makes an excellent substitute.
the udon noodles and stir to separate strands. When
the water begins to rise to the top, add a cup of cold
water and let it return to the boil again. Immediately
SERVES 4 remove from the heat and drain and rinse under cold
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp running water and drain.
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
Parboil the chicken for 3-5 minutes or until the colour
400g dried udon noodles
changes to opaque cream, rinse in cold water and
200g chicken breast fillets, cut into thin bite-size slices
drain.
100ml soy sauce
100ml mirin Take the softened shiitake mushrooms out of the broth
100ml sake and squeeze as much liquid as possible, remove the
4 Chinese cabbage leaves, thinly sliced stems and cut the caps into thin slices.
1 agedofu, deep-fried tofu, thinly sliced
Return the mushroom slices to the broth and add all the
4 tiger prawns, shelled and deveined
remaining ingredients except the noodles and spring
4 scallops, without roe
onions, bring to the boil over a medium-high heat.
2 spring onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
When it begins to boil, reduce the heat to medium,
shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder, to serve
add the noodles then let it return to the boil for 2-3
minutes.

Turn off the heat and sprinkle the spring onions over,
then divide between 4 individual bowls and serve
with the chilli powder.

CS

MAIN COURSES 205

SALMON AND MISO HOTPOT
ISHIKARI-NABE

This famous regional favourite of Hokkaid6, the Peel and cut the potatoes into large chunks then bevel
northernmost island of Japan, contains local produce all the edges and soak in cold water to wash off excess
such as salmon, onions and potatoes. The name of starch and drain.
the dish derives from the river Ishikari, where salmon
Put the kelp, sake, mirin, soy sauce, onions, potatoes
returns to spawn.
and 1.2 litres of water in a large casserole pot or
saucepan, cover with a lid and bring to the boil over a
medium heat. When the broth begins to boil remove
SERVES 4 the kelp and reduce the heat to medium-low, then
400g waxy potatoes such as Charlotte or Maris Piper simmer for 12-15 minutes, or until the potatoes are
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp nearly cooked through. Add the carrots and cabbage
50ml sake and continue to cook for 10-12 minutes.
50ml mirin
2 tablespoons soy sauce In asmall bowl, mix the two types of miso and the

2 onions, peeled and cut into 5mm thick slices butter together with a little broth from the pot to soften
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 5mm thick rings and stir the mixture into the pot. Add the salmon and
200g spring cabbage, hard core removed and cut into let the pot return to a gentle simmer. Cook for 3-5
bite-size pieces minutes or until the salmon is just cooked.
50g white or light-coloured miso To serve, divide between 4 individual serving bowls
150g red or medium-coloured miso and, if using, spoon the salmon roe mixture on top.
50g butter, softened
400g salmon fillets, cut into 2cm thick chunks
4 tablespoons salmon roe mixed with 2 teaspoons
sake, optional

206 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SIDE DISHES
SIDE DISHES FUKUSAI INSTANT CUCUMBER PICKLE

A perfectly balanced meal should consist of three Japanese people love pickles and there are literally
parts - +E#, shushoku, a staple to provide the countless types of pickles using a variety of preserving
main source of energy in the form of carbohydrate materials such as salt, rice bran, rice vinegar or soy
like rice, then =E3Z, shusai, a main dish to provide sauce. Some pickles take days or even months to
protein such as fish or meat, and accompanied with make while others are quicker. Instant pickles, like this,
BilSZ, fukusai, side dishes. The main purpose of side make ideal side dishes.
dishes is to provide vitamins, minerals and fibre to
help the smooth, healthy workings of the body. The
main ingredients for side dishes are vegetables,
mushrooms and seaweeds. One important rule in SERVES 4

putting a Japanese menu together is that a side 15g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
dish should not be cooked using the same method 50ml soy sauce
as for the main dish — for example, if the main dish 50ml sake
is deep-fried like tonkatsu or tempura then side Ya teaspoon chilli oil
dishes should ideally be oil-free items like salads 4-6 Lebanese cucumbers, weighing about 400g
or simmered dishes. Although in supporting roles,
as well as providing nutrition, side dishes also
add taste and flavour, and texture and colour to Mix all the ingredients, except the cucumbers, in a

complement main courses. large glass bowl and set aside.

Cut and discard the ends off each cucumber. With a

rolling pin, lightly beat and bruise the cucumbers then
break into rough bite-size pieces with your hands.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and place the

cucumbers in a heatproof sieve. Lower the sieve
into the boiling water and blanch for 2-3 minutes in
small batches. Drain and shake off excess water and
immediately add into the bowl of pickling sauce and
mix.

The cucumbers are ready to eat after 30 minutes,

but the flavours will develop if left over night. The
cucumbers, left in the pickling sauce, will keep up
to 5 days refrigerated.

210 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 ts,ae
Bs
8.
1.5
PAN-FRIED ASPARAGUS SALT-SQUEEZED
WITH SOY AND SESAME CHINESE CABBAGE
HAKUSAI NO SHIO-MOMI
Asparagus, although a relatively newcomer to
Japanese cuisine is loved for its taste and prized for Shio-momi, salt-squeeze, is one of the easiest and
its tantalisingly short season. quickest method for preparing vegetables. Another
bonus is that there is no need for washing-up.

SERVES 4
12-16 asparagus spears SERVES 4
1 tablespoon sesame oil 500g Chinese cabbage
2 tablespoons sake 2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon white toasted sesame seeds, to serve
Using your hands, roughly tear off the leafy part of the
cabbage from the thick white stem and keep them
Asparagus has a natural breaking point below which is separate. Cut the leaves into roughly 4cm wide pieces.
stringy and inedible — hold a spear between your hands Cut the stems diagonally into 1cm wide slices.
then bend until it breaks and discard the lower part.
Put the leaves in a ziplock plastic bag and add
Cut each trimmed spear into 4cm length pieces.
1 teaspoon of salt. Seal with plenty of air and shake to
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add distribute the salt evenly inside the bag.
the thicker lower part pieces of asparagus first followed
Put the stem slices in another ziplock bag, add the
by the rest, shaking the pan to toss, and cook for 2-3
remaining teaspoon of salt, reseal and shake. Open the
minutes. Add the sake and soy sauce and continue to
seal slightly to let all the air out then reseal and hold
cook while still shaking the pan until most of the liquid
the bag between your hands and squeeze as if you
has evaporated.
are massaging it for 2-3 minutes, or until the cabbage
Turn off the heat then sprinkle the sesame seeds over becomes wilted and soft.
and serve.
Cut a little hole on the bottom corner of each bag and
drain as much the salty liquid as possible.

Add the leaves into the stem bag, mix and then divide
between 4 portions to serve.

Bee

SIDE DISHES 213

NEW POTATO TUMBLE
SHINJAGA NO NIKKOROGASHI

In this, one of my grandma and mother’s recipes, In a frying pan large enough for the potatoes to sit
the sweetness of new potatoes is enhanced by a in a single layer, add the oil. Set over a medium heat,
soy-caramel sauce. add the potatoes and stir-fry for about 5 minutes while
shaking the pan constantly.

Add the sugar and continue to stir-fry for 2-3 minutes.

SERVES 4
1 tablespoon vegetable oil Add the remaining ingredients and cover with a lid,
600g baby new potatoes, skins on, scrubbed clean then continue to cook for 10-12 minutes over a very
2 tablespoons sugar gentle heat while turning the potatoes occasionally to
2 tablespoons sake ensure even cooking.
2 tablespoons mirin Remove from the heat and, with the lid on, give the
4 tablespoons soy sauce pan a shake. Leave for 5 minutes to steam before
serving.

SWEET-SIMMERED BROAD BEANS

In Japanese, broad bean is written soramame, literally Fresh broad beans in pods typically yield only a quarter
sky bean, because its pod erects into the sky. It is of their weight when shelled. Shell the broad beans
eaten simmered or deep-fried as an accompanying and remove their skins — this is fiddly but the result is
dish or dried then deep-fried as a snack. well worth the extra effort. Or alternatively use frozen
baby broad beans.

Bring 500m! of water with salt to the boil over a

SERVES 4 medium heat, add the beans to cook for 3-5 minutes.
1.2kg broad beans in pod or 400g frozen baby broad Add the remaining ingredients, except the cornstarch
beans mixture, and let it return to just below the boil. Reduce
Y2 teaspoon salt the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes. Stir in
2 tablespoons sake the cornstarch mixture and simmer for 1-3 minutes or
2 tablespoons mirin until the sauce thickens.
2 tablespoons sugar
Remove from the heat, divide between 4 small bowls
1tablespoon light soy sauce
with some cooking juices and serve.
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon
water

214 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 OKURA NO NORI-GOMASU AE

© Okra, okura, originates in Africa and is known to have Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Lay the okras on
been cultivated in the ancient Egypt. It became popular in a chopping board and sprinkle with the salt. Gently roll
Japan around in 1960s. Its characteristic stickiness derives them around with your hands — this gets rid of fluff and
from pectin, which helps to regulate healthy digestion as preserves the colour. Parboil in the pan for 2-3 minutes
well as lowering cholesterol and blood pressure. then drain and immediately plunge in a bowl of iced
water and drain. Pat dry thoroughly with kitchen paper.

Cut and discard the stem ends, then chop into about
SERVES 4 5mm thick slices. In a medium-size non-metallic bowl,
200g okra mix the okra with chopsticks or a fork until it becomes
1 teaspoon salt sticky, then add the sesame vinegar and soy sauce and
2 tablespoons Sesame Vinegar (see page 52) mix well to combine. Add the crushed nori pieces and
2 teaspoons soy sauce lightly mix just before serving.
1 sheet nori, crushed into small pieces

SIDE DISHES 215

SOY-BUTTERED ROAST PUMPKIN
CORN GINGER MASH

This simple dish makes a tasty accompaniment for Kabocha, pumpkin, has a naturally sweet taste which
barbecued meats. is further enhanced by roasting. This side dish goes
particularly well with rich roast meats.

SERVES 4
2 corn on the cob, halved SERVES 4
30g butter, melted 1.2kg pumpkin, quartered and deseeded
1 teaspoon caster sugar 1 tablespoon vegetable oil mixed with 1 teaspoon
4 teaspoons soy sauce toasted sesame oil
salt 1 teaspoon sea salt
30g unsalted butter, softened
Preheat the grill to high. Line a grill tray with foil. 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
Put the corn in a large saucepan and cover with mildly salt and ground white pepper
salted water. Bring to the boil over a high heat and
cook for 5-7 minutes. Drain and put the corn on the
Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6.
metal rack of the lined grill tray.
Brush the inside of the pumpkin with the oil mixture
Mix the butter, sugar and soy sauce together and brush
then sprinkle the sea salt over. Place the pumpkin,
generously over the corn. Place under the grill to cook
skin side down, in a roasting tray and roast for 50-60
for 5-8 minutes while turning and basting regularly,
until slightly blistered. minutes or until very tender.

Brush any remaining butter mix over the corn and Scoop the flesh from the skin and put in a bowl.
serve immediately. Add the butter and mash until very smooth. Add the
soy sauce and ginger then season to taste with salt
and pepper. Serve warm.

216 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 phe FS
ke aaa
GREEN AND YELLOW LEEKS IN
PEPPER KINPIRA GINGER MISO

Kinpira is the name of a fictional puppet theatre Japanese use several different types of spring onions
character from the 18th century who was renowned and this recipe is based on one using naga-negi, long-
for his mighty strength. But no one knows exactly onion or sometimes called shiro-negi, white-onion, and
how the name became synonymous to this shallow- as the names suggest it has a longer white part. The
fried dish. nearest equivalent is leeks, which go particularly well
with pork or chicken dishes. Pickled ginger is typically
served as a digestive condiment.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 green peppers, quartered, deseeded and cut into
SERVES4
strips
2 leeks, cleaned and trimmed
1 yellow pepper, quartered, deseeded and cut into
2 tablespoons medium-coloured miso
strips
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon pickled ginger, drained and finely
a pinch of red chilli flakes or shichimi-togarashi,
chopped
seven-spice chilli powder

Cut the leeks diagonally into 5-6mm thick rings. Put

Heat the oil in a frying pan or wok over a medium-high the leeks in a saucepan, just cover with water and bring
heat and stir-fry the peppers for 1-2 minutes. to the boil over a medium heat. Reduce the heat to low
Add the sugar and stir, followed by the sake and soy and simmer for 10-12 minutes.
sauce. Reduce to a medium-low heat and continue to Meanwhile, mix the remaining ingredients in a
cook, stirring, until the juice has been slightly reduced. small bowl.
Turn off the heat and sprinkle over the chilli flakes and Turn off the heat and drain briefly, so that the leeks are
serve either hot or at room temperature. still quite wet, then return to the saucepan. Add the
ginger miso and mix well. Divide into 4 equal portions
and serve warm.

Siri UE

SIDE DISHES 219

SOY-SEEPED MUSHROOMS

| am delighted to see more and more Japanese Both shimeji and enoki mushrooms come clustered
mushrooms are sold in supermarkets. And here is a and joined at the base — cut and discard the bases and
quick and easy way of serving them as a tasty side dish. separate. Cut and discard the stems of the shiitake
mushrooms and split the caps in half, by hand.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the

SERVES 4
mushrooms and onion slices for about 3 minutes and
300g mixed mushrooms such as shimeji, enoki and drain. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl then add
shiitake the vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil and mix to
Y red onion, peeled and thinly sliced incorporate evenly. With the back of a spoon, flatten
1 tablespoon rice vinegar the top surface of the mushroom mixture and leave to
2 tablespoons soy sauce stand for 15-20 minutes to marinate.
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Y2 teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds, to garnish Divide between 4 individual bowls, garnish with the
sesame seeds and serve at room temperature.

CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI IN MUSTARD MISO

Seasoned miso adds extra taste and flavour to what is Cut the broccoli and cauliflower into large bite-size
otherwise rather bland boiled vegetables. chunks.

Bring a saucepan of mild salted water to the boil over a

high heat and add the cauliflower. Wait for the water to
SERVES 4 return to the boil before adding the broccoli to blanch
200g cauliflower for 1 minute. Drain.
200g broccoli
In a large bowl, mix all the miso ingredients together.
salt
Add the vegetables and mix to coat evenly.
FOR THE MUSTARD MISO
Divide into 4 portions and serve warm or at room
2 teaspoons wholegrain mustard
temperature.
4 tablespoons white or light-coloured miso
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar

220 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 Sisal! ms
Sh SEE ARR
ASPARAGUS WITH WHITE ROLLED CHINESE CABBAGE
SESAME DRESSING AND SPINACH WITH
SESAME SOY
Dutch traders first introduced asparagus to Japan as
an ornamental plant nearly 200 years ago. Asparagus For a side dish, this recipe calls for a little extra
contains a lot of asparaginsaure, a kind of amino acid effort of rolling, but the result is very elegant and
that aids fatigue recovery and boosts stamina. guaranteed to impress your guests. This goes well
with grilled fish or chicken dishes.

SERVES 4
12 asparagus SERVES 4
1 teaspoon salt 4 leaves Chinese cabbage
2 tablespoons White Sesame Dressing (see page 50) Ya teaspoon salt
200g spinach
Hold one asparagus spear at a time between your 3 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds
hands and bend until it snaps and discard the lower 1 tablespoon sugar
end. Repeat the process 11 times more. Cut each spear 2 tablespoons soy sauce
into 4—5cm long pieces. Put the asparagus pieces in a 1 teaspoon red pickled ginger, to garnish, optional
medium-size mixing bowl, sprinkle salt over and gently
rub them together with your hand. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and holding the
Chinese cabbage leaves together with your hand,
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the
submerge from the lower end first, for 2 minutes, then
asparagus to parboil for 2-3 minutes and drain. Then
remove and drain, reserving the water. Sprinkle with the
plunge them into a bowl of iced water and drain. Pat
salt and leave to cool. Use the same water to blanch
them dry with kitchen paper.
the spinach for 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl of iced
Put the asparagus in a mixing bowl, add the sesame water to cool. Drain.
dressing and toss. Divide between 4 portions and
On a bamboo rolling mat, place the cabbage leaves
serve.
overlapping while alternating the top and base sides.
COOK’S TIP Put the drained spinach in a cylindrical shape on top of
If you are storing fresh asparagus for a few days, the cabbage and roll tightly, then set aside in the mat.
wrap in damp newspaper and stand upright in the Put the sesame seeds in a suribachi, a ribbed Japanese
refrigerator. mortar, and finely grind. Add the sugar and soy sauce
and mix well. If you do not have a suribachi, use a
normal pestle and mortar.

Unroll the mat and cut the cabbage roll into 8 pieces
(see page 245). Place on the side of 4 individual serving
plates. Drizzle the sesame soy over each piece, top
with the pickled ginger to garnish and serve.

II III.

SIDE DISHES 223

SIMMERED RADISH WITH EGG MISO
FUROFUKI-DAIKON TO TAMAMISO

This is one of the most popular home winter dishes. Peel and cut the radish into 8 round 2—3cm thick pieces
and bevel the edges. Bevelling the edges is both for
a neater appearance and to prevent crumbling during
SERVES 4 cooking. Put in a saucepan and cover with plenty of
600g daikon, giant white radish water and bring to the boil over a high heat, reduce the
1 postcard-size piece of dried kelp heat to medium and cook for 10-15 minutes or until the
shichimi-togarashi, seven-spice chilli powder or red radish is cooked through but still firm. Remove from the
chilli flakes, to garnish water and drain.

FOR THE EGG MISO Make a few incisions in the kelp to help it infuse and
200g red miso place in a saucepan that is large enough to sit all the
8 tablespoons sugar radish pieces in a single layer. Put the radish on the kelp
1 egg yolk and add just enough water to cover. Cover with a drop-
2 tablespoons mirin lid (see page 134) or circle of baking parchment with
2 tablespoons sake a vent on top. Bring to the boil over a medium heat
then reduce the heat to low and continue to simmer for
30-40 minutes, or until they soften and become slightly
translucent.

Meanwhile, put all the egg miso ingredients in a

saucepan and cook over a gentle heat, while constantly
stirring with a rubber spatula, for 4-5 minutes.
Remove from the heat and let it cool down to room
temperature.

Divide the radish between 4 individual serving dishes.

Top with a generous teaspoonful of egg miso anda
sprinkle of chill powder then serve hot.

COOKS TIP
The egg miso keeps in an airtight container in the
refrigerator for up to a month.

224 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

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DESSERTS
DESSERTS

In Japan, there is no tradition of serving sweet food to gods and deities. To this day, in the vicinity of many
as the last course. Instead, seasonal fruits (which temples and shrines, one can find local speciality
are listed as mizu-gashi, literally ‘water-sweets’) may confections made the same way for centuries.
be served or, on more formal occasions, traditional
A Zen Buddhist monk, Eizai (1141-1215 ap) is credited
Japanese confectionary with matcha, powdered green
for introducing tea and tea ceremonies as a part of
tea. However, these sweets are not considered part of
the Zen ways. And as the tea ceremony developed
the meal. In Japan, the classic meal ends on a savoury
and flourished, Japanese confections, wagashi, most
note with a bowl of miso soup and rice with a few slices
notably manjG, sweet bun and yokan, firm sweet adzuki
of pickles at the side. There is no direct equivalent of
bean paste, began to find their way into the kitchens of
dessert in the Japanese cuisine.
the ordinary people.
Yet the Japanese adore kashi, confectionary, of all
The next significant development came when Japan
sorts, both Japanese and Western-style. Traditionally,
began trading with the Portuguese and Dutch in
kashi are enjoyed between meals and otherwise called
the 16th century and Western confections such as
o-yatsu, (the old-fashioned clock reading referring to
kasutera, sponge cake, and konpeit6, sugar candy were
between 2—4pm). They are nearly always accompanied
introduced. Called nanban-gashi, literally southern
with normal drinking tea like bancha or sencha (see
barbarian sweets, they were distinctively different
pages 241 and 242).
because of their use of ingredients such as egg, sugar,
Before Chinese characters were introduced, Japan butter and flour, and had a considerable influence on
had no written language. The Japanese ate two meals Japanese confectionary thereafter.
a day and, in between, either fresh or dried fruit. So,
In 1603 ap, Tokugawa leyasu established a new
when writing was brought over they used the word
government in Edo (present-day Tokyo) and laid the
for confectionary 32+ kashi, which derives from the
foundations of the powerful shogunate, which lasted
word for fruit 423 kajitsu. Notice how similar the two
about 260 years. The policy of sankin-k6tai, literally
first characters are #2,/&. This is because originally
‘alternate attendance’ was designed to strengthen the
the two characters were the same and the term,
power of the ruling Tokugawa shogunate by requiring
kashi meant fruit. The distinction between fruit and
feudal lords to travel every other year between his
confectionary was made when Chinese confections
dominion and Edo. The policy not only reinforced the
known as Chinese fruit were introduced. These tdgashi,
central power but also contributed to the development
Chinese fruit, were made of ground grains or soybeans,
of the domestic transport. At the same time, Japan
salted kneaded and deep-fried in oil, and were the
barred all foreign ships except the Dutch and became
precursors of Japanese sweets, wagashi. Although
isolated from the rest of the world. The over-two-
sugar was introduced in 754 ap by the Buddhist monk
century-long isolation resulted in the establishment
Ganjin, for centuries it remained a luxury, used only
of Japanese culture and identity, and food was no
occasionally by the aristocracy and high priests for
exception. Japanese food as we know it today was
medicinal purposes. It was not until the middle of
largely established during the Edo period.
the 16th century that sugar was used by more than a
fraction of the population and not until the 19th that its Then came the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Japan
use spread among the ordinary people. opened its door and began eagerly consuming all
things from the West including food. The biggest
The capital moved from Nara to Kyoto in 794 ap and
change in the Japanese food culture was that the
the Chinese confections came to be served at both
nation began eating meat after 1200 years.
Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies and feasts as offerings

228 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 YUZU TOFU CHEESECAKE

Today, the Japanese distinguish between ydgashi, Tofu is such a versatile ingredient with bonus of being
Western confectionary that typically use dairy products low in calories and fat. So here is a cheesecake that
and wheat flour, and wagashi, indigenous Japanese you can enjoy without feeling too guilty.
sweets made from fruits, tubers, beans, nuts and seeds,
seaweeds, and rice flour. Both types of confectionaries
along with many hybrid creations are enjoyed with the
accompaniment of green tea (both normal drinking tea MAKES | X 20CM CHEESECAKE
and ceremonial matcha), Indian tea or coffee. FOR THE BASE

Wagashi, Japanese sweets can be divided into three 100g digestive biscuits
distinct types: 50g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
30g soft brown sugar
NAMAGASHI, RAW CONFECTIONS: As the name implies,
FOR THE FILLING
these sweets are to be eaten within a few days of
200g soft silken tofu
making. The category includes delicate, fresh jellies
150g cream cheese
and pastes and doughs made of various starches or
50g caster sugar
mochi, soft rice cakes formed into dumpling shapes
2 tablespoons yuzu juice
and often contain sweet adzuki bean paste. They may
1 tablespoon gelatine powder sprinkled over 2
be eaten with normal drinking green tea or matcha,
tablespoons water
strong powdered green tea.
blueberries and raspberries, to serve, optional
HAN-NAMAGASHI, HALF-RAW CONFECTIONS: These
sweets are made to last longer than the raw ones and Line a 20cm diameter springform cake tin with baking
more often than not, associated with a specific region parchment and grease with butter.
of Japan and made with special local ingredients.
Roughly break up the biscuits and put them in a plastic
HIGASHI, DRY CONFECTIONS: These sweets come closest bag, crush with a rolling pin, to form fine crumbs. Mix
to what one would call candies and biscuits and the the biscuits with the melted butter and sugar. Spoon
water content must be less than 20%. The category the biscuit mixture into the tin. Then using the back of
also includes senbei, rice crackers which are savoury. the spoon, evenly spread and press down.
However, the term most commonly refers to the little
Wrap the tofu in a clean tea towel and squeeze to drain
confections used in the tea ceremony, which are made
until it has the same consistency as soft cream cheese.
from rice flour and sugar, coloured and pressed into
Put the tofu, cream cheese, sugar and yuzu juice ina
small decorative moulds. The best quality sweets are
bowl then, with an electric hand blender, mix well until
made with wasanbon sugar and those from Kyoto are
smooth. Heat the soaked gelatine in the microwave for
particularly famous.
30 seconds (800W) and combine with the tofu mixture.
Because the notion and the role played by confections
Pour the tofu mixture onto the biscuit crust and spread
in the Japanese cuisine is so very different from the
evenly. Top with some berries, if using, then place in the
Western food culture, choosing recipes in this chapter
refrigerator until ready to serve.
was especially challenging. The aim of this book is to
get you to start cooking Japanese food in your kitchen, COOK’S TIP
so | decided to adapt Japanese confections and their Instead of digestive biscuits, try ginger biscuits.
ingredients into Western-style desserts.

I I 0I0I0I0I090909090I0._I_

DESSERTS 229
YUZU CREME BRULEE MT FUJI

Refreshing yuzu juice gives this French classic An adaptation of the famous French dessert, Mont
dessert a wonderful Japanese twist. | am delighted Blanc, using meringues and sweet adzuki bean paste.
to see yuzu juice sold in small bottles in some larger
supermarkets.
SERVES 4

FOR THE MERINGUES )

SERVES 4
2 large egg whites (approximately 80g in weight)
400ml double cream
110g caster sugar
4 large egg yolks (approx 80g)
4 tablespoons golden caster sugar plus extra to top FOR THE TOPPING

2 tablespoons yuzu juice 200g mascarpone cheese

berries such as raspberries, strawberries or 200ml low-fat fromage frais
blueberries, to serve, optional 1 tablespoon caster sugar
1 teaspoon matcha, green tea powder

Preheat the oven to 150°C/gas mark 2. FOR THE FILLING

4 tablespoons an, sweet adzuki bean paste
Bring the cream to the boil in a saucepan over a high icing sugar, to serve
heat, then remove from the heat as soon as it begins
to boil.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/gas mark 2. Line a baking
Meanwhile mix the eggs, sugar and yuzu juice in a sheet with parchment paper.
heatproof bowl and whisk until pale.
Put the egg whites in a large stainless steel or copper
Pour the slightly cooled cream into the egg mixture, bowi, and whisk using an electric hand whisk on a low
mix well and divide between 4 small ramekin dishes. speed for 2-3 minutes until foamy. Increase the speed
to medium and whisk for a further minute. Increase to
Stand the ramekins in a roasting tin and pour in enough
high and continue whisking until the whites are stiff,
water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
then begin adding the sugar, a dessertspoonful at a
Bake in the oven for about 30-35 minutes until softly time, until the mixture is stiff and glossy.
set. To test, gently sway the ramekins — the surface of
Spoon 4 heaped tablespoons onto the baking sheet,
the custard should be beginning to set around the
edge but wobble like jelly in the middle. Do not let it
spacing them evenly. Then, using the back of the
set too firm. spoon, hollow out the centres. Place on the centre
shelf of the oven and cook for 30 minutes. Turn off the
Lift the ramekins out of the roasting tin and set oven and leave the meringues in the oven until they are
aside until cool enough to handle then place in the completely cool.
refrigerator to chill for a few hours.
Put the mascarpone, fromage frais and sugar ina
When ready to serve, sprinkle over enough caster sugar bowl and mix until the sugar is completely dissolved.
to thinly cover the surface of the créme brilée. Sprinkle Sift in the green tea powder then mix until it is evenly
over a little water. Then, with a cook's blow torch, combined. To assemble, first spoon the sweet adzuki
brown the sugar, holding the flame just above the paste into each meringue, top with the mascarpone
surface and moving it around to brown evenly. Serve mixture then dust with the icing sugar and serve.
with some berries.

230 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

BLACK SESAME ICE CREAM

Black sesame seeds give this ice cream a rich nutty Heat the milk and cream in a medium saucepan over a
taste and a dramatic dark appearance. It is made medium heat to just below the boil.
easier if you can source the ready-made sesame paste
Put the egg yolks, sugar and salt in a medium heatproof
from Japanese or Asian stores.
bowl and beat until pale. Then slowly begin to pour the
hot milk mixture into the yolk mixture while constantly
stirring. Do not hurry this process otherwise the eggs
SERVES 4-6
may curdle.
300m! semi-skimmed or whole milk
300m! double cream Pour the mixture back into the pan and place over a
4 large egg yolks medium-low heat. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring the
150g caster sugar mixture, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a
Y teaspoons salt spoon. Add the black sesame paste and vanilla extract
2 tablespoons black sesame paste (see below or use then mix well and set aside to cool completely.
ready-made from a Japanese store) If you have an ice cream maker, put the mixture in and
1 teaspoon vanilla extract follow the manufacturer's instructions. But if you are not
black sesame seeds, to garnish using an ice cream maker, put the mixture in a plastic
container with a lid and place in the freezer and keep
stirring every 30 minutes for 3-4 hours.

Serve with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

BLACK SESAME PASTE

MAKES ABOUT |!00G

100g black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon clear honey

Dry toast the sesame seeds in a non-stick frying pan

over a medium heat until they start to pop. (They may
be sold ready toasted, but it is worth refreshing them).
Immediately transfer the seeds into a suribachi, a
ribbed Japanese mortar, and grind for 30-45 minutes
or until you have a smooth paste. Add the honey and
continue grinding to evenly mixed. The paste will keep
for 3-4 weeks refrigerated in a sterilised jam jar.

232 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

GREEN TEA ICE CREAM

With a hint of bitterness from the matcha, this ice Follow the same process of making custard mixture as
cream not only looks beautifully green but also tastes for Black Sesame Ice Cream (opposite) until just before
fresh and rather sophisticated. The powder is sold in a adding the sesame paste.
small tin and lasts up to a year but once opened store
In a small bowl, mix the matcha with 3 tablespoons
refrigerated.
warm water and stir well to form a smooth paste.

Add the tea paste to the custard and milk mixture and
SERVES 4-6
stir well until it is completely combined and the colour
appears uniformly light green then set aside to cool.
300ml semi-skimmed or whole milk
300ml double cream If you have an ice cream maker, put the mixture in and
4 large egg yolks follow the manufacturer's instructions. But if you are not
150g caster sugar using an ice cream maker, put the mixture in a plastic
Ya teaspoons salt container with a lid and place in the freezer and keep
1 tablespoon matcha, green tea powder stirring every 30 minutes or so for 3-4 hours.
a few mint leaves, to garnish
Serve decorated with the mint leaves on top.

YUZU SORBET

Yuzu, a Japanese citron, is used mostly for its zest and Put the sugar and warm water in a stainless steel mixing
juice, which has an unforgettable delicate refreshing bowl and mix until the sugar is completely dissolved,
aroma and taste. The juice is sold in a small bottle and then add the yuzu juice. Set aside to cool. When it has
it is expensive but well justified for its flavour. cooled down to room temperature, place in the freezer
until it begins to freeze around the edges — this will take
1%-2 hours.

SERVES 4-6 Beat the egg whites in a separate stainless steel or

120g caster sugar copper mixing bowl until soft peaks form then slowly
800ml warm water add the sugar, a dessertspoonful at a time, and
4 tablespoons yuzu juice continue to beat until the mixture becomes thick,
a few thinly sliced lemon peel, to garnish glossy and forms stiff peak when the whisk is lifted.
FOR THE MERINGUE Stir the meringue into the semi-frozen sugar mixture to
2 large egg whites (approximately 80g) incorporate then return to the freezer for a further 2-3
40g caster sugar hours, turning every 30 minutes.

Serve decorated with a few strips of lemon peel on top.

Snr
nnn inrrr

DESSERTS 233
BLACK SESAME KYOTO
PANNA COTTA TIRAMISU

Panna Cotta is one of my favourite Italian desserts — Like many foreign dishes that have been adopted by
here I’ve given it a Japanese twist. You can buy ready- the Japanese, tiramisu has been remodelled using
made black sesame paste from Japanese stores but it green tea and sweet adzuki bean paste.
is easy to make with a bit of elbow-grease.

SERVES 6=10
SERVES 4 4 eggs, separated
2 teaspoons gelatine powder 150g caster sugar
250m! full-fat milk 300g mascarpone cheese
250m! double cream 1 tablespoon matcha, green tea powder, plus extra
1 tablespoon caster sugar for dusting
2 tablespoons Black Sesame Paste (see page 232) 200m! warm water
36 small sponge finger biscuits
Put 2 teaspoons of cold water in a small bowl and 300g an, sweet adzuki bean paste
sprinkle over the gelatin. Leave to soak for 5-8 minutes. 3 tablespoons sake

Meanwhile, put the milk, cream and sugar in a

Whisk the egg whites in a clean, dry, stainless steel or
saucepan and heat over a medium heat, taking care
copper mixing bowl until soft peaks form.
not to let it boil over. Add the sesame paste and
soaked gelatine, mix well then return just to the boil In a separate large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the
and simmer for 3-5 minutes. sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy and leaves a
ribbon trail when dropped from the whisk. Add the
Remove from the heat and stand for about 10 minutes
mascarpone and blend until the mixture is smooth.
to cool slightly, then pour into 4 heatproof individual
Fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture.
glasses. Stand to cool further before placing in the
refrigerator to chill for 3-4 hours or until set. Sift the green tea powder into a medium-size bowl
and whisk in the warm water, little by little. Dip half the
VARIATION
biscuits, enough to cover the base of a 6-7cm deep
Instead of sesame seeds, try this with a tablespoon of
25cm square dish (about 2 litre capacity), into the tea —
matcha (green tea powder). Sift a tablespoon of green
they should be fairly well soaked but not so much that
tea into a bowl with 2 tablespoons of milk and add to
they break up. Arrange in a tightly packed layer in the
the panna cotta mix once slightly cooled. Mix well to
base of the dish.
ensure evenly combined.
Mix the bean paste with sake to soften. Spread half the
bean paste mixture over the biscuit layer as evenly as
possible using the back of a spoon. Then spread half
the mascarpone mixture over the adzuki layer. Add
another layer of soaked biscuits and then another layer
of adzuki and mascarpone, smoothing the top layer
neatly. Put about a teaspoon of matcha in a small sieve
and dust over the top just before serving. Serve in small
portions as this is a very rich dessert.

234. COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

TOKYO ROLL

This is a Japanese variation on the Swiss roll. Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Grease and line
a 33 x 23cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment. Dust
with a half-and-half mixture of sugar and flour.
SERVESIOnG
Mix the flour with the green tea powder and sift 2-3
100g caster sugar plus extra for dusting times to ensure there are no lumps.
100g plain flour plus extra for dusting
10g matcha, green tea powder Put the eggs and sugar in a bowl, place over a pan
4 large eggs of simmering water and whisk, using an electric hand
200m! double cream whisk, until pale and creamy and thick enough to leave
100g koshi-an, smooth sweet adzuki bean paste a trail on the surface when the whisk is lifted.
icing sugar, for dusting Remove the egg mixture from the heat then sift half the
green tea-flour mixture over and gently fold in with a
metal spoon. Repeat with the remaining flour mixture,
then lightly stir in 1 tablespoon of hot water.

Pour the mixture into the prepared tin then tilt the tin
backwards and forwards to spread the mixture evenly.
Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes, until well risen and
firm to the touch.

Meanwhile, place a large sheet of greaseproof paper

on top of a clean, damp tea towel. Dredge the paper
thickly with caster sugar.

Working quickly, turn out the sponge onto the paper,

trim off the crusty edges and let it cool down.

While the cake is cooling down, whisk the cream until

soft peaks form. Spread the cream over the cake and
make a line of adzuki bean paste along the long edge
nearest to you.

Roll up the cake, starting from the long edge with the
paste on, with the aid of the paper. Make the first turn
firmly so that the whole cake will roll evenly and have
a good shape when finished, but roll more lightly after
the first turn.

Place the cake, seam side down, on a chopping board,

dust with the icing sugar then slice and serve.

236 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

KINAKO AND BLACK SESAME CUPCAKES

Kinako, parched soybean flour, is aromatic and has a Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Line a 12-hole
pleasant nutty flavour. It is used for making traditional muffin tin with paper cupcake cases.
Japanese confectionary and is available in small packs
Cream the butter and sugar in a bowl until fluffy and
in Japanese stores.
pale. Then beat in the eggs, a little at a time.

Put the flours and baking powder in a fine-meshed

sieve and sift over the butter mixture then fold in with a
MAKES12
large metal spoon, adding a little milk until the mixture
110g unsalted butter, at room temperature
is of a dropping consistency.
110g caster sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten Spoon the mixture into the paper cases, filling them up
70g self-raising flour to about half way. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top.
40g kinako, soybean flour
Bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes or until golden
2 teaspoons baking powder
brown on top and a skewer inserted into one of the
1-2 tablespoons semi-skimmed or whole milk, as
cakes comes out clean.
needed
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for 10
minutes, then remove from the tin and cool on a wire
rack. Eat within 1-2 days of making.

MATCHA JELLY

This is an easy yet highly sophisticated and visually Sift the green tea powder into a medium-sized bowl
stunning dessert. then add 50mlI of the warm water and mix well until
there are no lumps.

Add the sugar and the agar-agar mixture to the tea

SERVES4 then add the rest of the warm water and stir to mix.
1 tablespoon matcha, green tea powder Transfer the tea mixture into a saucepan and heat over
500m! warm water (about 60°C) a medium heat until it reaches just below the boil then
2 tablespoons granulated sugar lower the heat slightly and simmer for 2-3 minutes.
1% teaspoons agar-agar powder dissolved in
Remove from the heat and cool down a little before
3 teaspoons cold water
dividing between 4 wine glasses. Let it cool down to
room temperature before placing in the refrigerator.

Serve chilled.

a EEE

DESSERTS 239
THREE JAPANESE-STYLE MERINGUES

If you've made the Yuzu Créme Briilée (page 230) Preheat the oven to 150°C/gas mark 2. Line 3 baking
and are wondering what to do with the leftover egg sheets with baking parchment.
whites, here is the answer.
Put the egg whites in a large clean stainless steel or
copper mixing bowl. Beat with an electric hand whisk
on a low speed for 2-3 minutes until the whites become
MAKES 12 foamy. Increase the spéed to medium and whisk for
4 large egg whites, (approximately 160g in weight) at another minute before increasing the speed again to
room temperature high until the whites form stiff peaks. Divide the mixture
220g caster sugar into 3 portions and put each into a clean mixing bowl.
1 tablespoon kinako, soybean flour Also divide the caster sugar into 3 equal portions.
1 teaspoon, matcha, green tea powder, sifted twice Next, whisk one portion of the sugar into one portion
Ya tablespoon black sesame seeds of egg white, on high speed, about a dessertspoonful
whipped cream and berries, to serve, optional
at a time until the mixture becomes stiff and glossy, set
aside while you repeat the process with the second and
third portion.

Sift the soybean flour into the second portion of sugar

then mix and sift the whole mixture again. Now whisk
this sugar into the second bowl of egg whites, on high
speed, as before and set aside.

Clean and dry the beaters. Mix the green tea powder
into the last sugar portion and sift the whole mixture
once more to ensure an even mixture. Whisk this tea
and sugar mixture into the third portion of egg whites
on high speed as before.

Spoon 4 heaped dessertspoons of each meringue

mixture onto the prepared baking sheets spacing them
generously apart. Do not worry if they are not evenly
shaped. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top of the plain
(first portion) meringues.

Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 hour until

the meringues sound crisp when tapped underneath.
Turn off the oven and leave the meringues in the oven
until completely cooled.

Serve either on their own or with whipped cream and

berries.

COOK'S TIP
The meringues will keep in an airtight container for up
to 2 weeks.

240 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

JAPANESE TEA

Tea originated in China several thousand years ago lesser quality), while still moist and as they dry they curl
and was introduced to Japan around the 8th century up into shred-like pieces. For powdered tea, steamed
when the newly established Imperial court in Nara leaves are dried flat and ground into an extremely fine
enthusiastically adopted all things Chinese. Originally dust. Leaf tea is for everyday drinking and is quick and
regarded as a precious medicine and a stimulant, easy to make. Powdered tea is more expensive and
leaves were crushed and compressed into brick-shaped whisking it into a froth without making it bitter takes
blocks. The brick was scraped and shavings dropped some practice, so it is used for tea ceremonies, which
into water, which was then boiled vigorously to infuse. involve a complex ritual and follow strict rules and
Early tea cultivation is not thought to have been very etiquette. However, it can also be enjoyed just like a
successful and so tea remained exclusively reserved for shot of espresso coffee and indeed, this is how Zen
the aristocracy and high-ranking Buddhist priests. monks sustained themselves during their long, hard
training.
Tea was re-introduced in its powdered form (matcha)
in the 12th century, brought back by Japanese monks All leaf tea belongs to one of the following broad
after studying Zen Buddhism in China. By this time, grades with prices dependent on quality:
agricultural techniques had developed enough to make
BANCHA ##é is the lowest grade green tea. Consumed
tea cultivation more successful, and tea flourished
in great quantities every day, it is made from larger,
at the same rate as Zen Buddhism, becoming an
more mature leaves that are left after those fit for
indispensable part of everyday life but also intertwined
sencha are picked. All bancha is good to drink with
with the religion — the vehicle of the spiritual discipline
meals as it tastes mild and has hardly any aroma so
of Zen Buddhism’s chad, the Way of Tea.
does not interfere with the taste of food. It is also
In the late 16th century, sencha, leaf tea, was imported thirst quenching. The poorer grade of bancha is often
from China. Just over 100 years later, a Japanese tea roasted to enhance flavour and made into hdji-cha
merchant invented a technique of steaming tea leaves Ke CA, literally ‘roasted-tea’ and the leaf is ebony
to make green leaf tea, which, because it is simpler brown with a characteristic deep smoky aroma and
to prepare and less expensive than matcha, became taste. Because of the roasting it has less caffeine than
popular among ordinary people. Matcha remained part other green tea and is often served after dinner in the
of Zen spiritual training and also became increasingly evening. Another type of bancha is genmai-cha ZA,
associated with wealthy merchants, the ruling Samurai sometimes called ‘rice-tea’ as it is made from bancha
class and the aristocracy. mixed with grains of roasted popped rice. It is brewed
in the same way and has a slightly nutty flavour.
JAPANESE GREEN TEA
Tea bushes, Camellia, wherever they are grown are SENCHA fil4 literally means infused tea. The leaves
all the same. The difference in colour is due to the are younger and more tender than those used for
processing — Japanese tea is green because once the bancha and picking is done with great care so, unlike
leaves are picked, they are immediately steamed. The bancha, there are no stems or twigs mixed in. Sencha is

steaming destroys an enzyme in the leaf and stops it appreciated for its taste and aroma and is often served
from fermenting and turning black, like Indian tea. in exclusive restaurants or hotels and in places of work
to visitors of note while at home it is served to impress
TYPES OF GREEN TEA guests and relatives.
Japanese tea is divided into two major types: leaf
GYOKURO #2 means ‘jewel dew’ and, as the name
and powder. For leaf tea, steamed leaves are rubbed,
implies, it is the top grade. When new buds begin to
either by hand (for top-quality tea) or machine (for
appear on mature bushes, each bush is sheltered in

ee a ee OS SRE oo ap yee Sane

DESSERTS 24!
a slatted bamboo blind to shut out the sunlight for bowl with hot water, empty and dry with a cloth. At
about 20 days, which results in an increase in thiamine, the same time, soak the bamboo whisk in hot water to
giving the tea its characteristic rounded faintly sweet prevent the tea powder from sticking and staining it.
flavour. When leaves are about 2cm long, only the top Add a teaspoonful of tea powder (for the best result,
2-3 are hand-picked. Rare and expensive, gyokuro though not ceremonial, sieve the powder through a
is savoured purely for its flavour and sipped in small tea strainer) in the middle of the bowl then add 60m!
quantities, just as if you are tasting precious dew drops. (about a full espresso cupful) of warm water at 60°C.
The initial taste is highly aromatic and it might even be Whisk with the bamboo whisk in a letter M motion for
a bit strong but roll it around inside the mouth and it no longer than 15 seconds. Do not over-whisk as this
mellows. Dried gyokuro leaves are about 1.5cm long will make the tea taste bitter.
with a thin needle-like appearance and a uniform deep
Japanese green teas are sometimes infused in water
green colour.
or even in ice in summer. Hdji-cha and mugi-cha (&#)
HOW TO MAKE A PERFECT CUP OF TEA roasted barley tea is excellent served chilled and even
There is no one-way-fits-all method in making a perfect gyokuro may be steeped in water during hot weather.
cup of green tea as each variety requires different
Both loose tea and powdered tea should be bought a
water temperature and infusion period. However,
little at a time and used within 2-3 week after opening.
there is one easy principle to remember; the higher
It should be stored in an airtight container in a cool,
the grade tea, the lower the water temperature and
dark dry place or even in the refrigerator, particularly in
longer the infusion. While using good-quality tea and
the case of powdered tea. Loose tea freezes well and
following an appropriate method of preparation is
can be kept in the freezer for up to a year. Defrost and
paramount to making a good cup of tea, the quality of
let the leaves come to room temperature before using.
water is equally important. Do not use water straight
from the tap but use soft mineral water or at least HEALTH BENEFITS
filtered tap water. Various studies show that green tea
The other main type of tea is powdered tea, known e Lowers cholesterol
as matcha (48), green powdered tea, which is made ¢ Lowers blood pressure
from the same tender leaves that have been cultivated
e Lowers risks of cancer
for gyokuro, the top grade leaf tea. But instead of
¢ Lowers blood sugar levels so lowers risk of type 2
hand-rubbing carefully hand-picked leaves into tight
diabetes
needle-like pieces, the steamed leaves are dried flat
¢ Increases fat burning and boosts the metabolic rate
then ground into a fine powder.
¢ Protects the ageing process and lowers the risk of
To prepare matcha, you need a small bamboo hand Alzheimer’s and Parkinson's disease
whisk called chasen (483E) and a bowl. Warm the

GETTING THE MEASUREMENTS RIGHT

Type of tea Amount of tea Amount of water Water temperature Infusing time

Bancha 10g 240ml 90-100°C 30 seconds

Ho ji-cha 10g 240ml 90-100°C 30 seconds

Genmai-cha 10g 240ml 90-100°C 30 seconds

Sencha 10g 200m| 80°C 60 seconds

Gyokuro 10g 80ml 60°C 90 seconds

242 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 INGREDIENTS
AND EQUIPMENT
JAPANESE KITCHEN UTENSILS

If you have a reasonably well equipped kitchen you BAMBOO ROLLING MAT MAKI-SU 4a
shouldn't have to buy a great deal of equipment. A few Strips of bamboo are woven together into a mat with
improvisations may be necessary sometimes but such strong cotton string. It is used most commonly to make
things are fun and should pose no discouragement to sushi rolls but also to shape soft ingredients, such as
adventurous cooks. As the aim of this book is to get omelettes, and to press out excess moisture. The mat
you started cooking Japanese food, | have taken a usually measures 25cm square. After using, carefully
minimalist approach, so the following items are bare wash under tepid water without any detergent, and
essentials. Most are available either in specialist shops allow to dry completely before storing. These are widely
or on the internet. In Japanese kitchens, knives are the available even in supermarkets.
most important utensil of all, and so a separate section
is devoted to them on page 247. DROP-LID OTOSHI-BUTA #& L#

BAMBOO BASKETS ZARU jit The drop-lid is an essential tool in preparing simmered
For draining, rinsing, salting, tossing and lots of other dishes. It not only ensures even heat distribution,
food preparation, Japanese cooks have traditionally meaning flavours penetrate better into the ingredients,
used bamboo baskets of various sizes and shapes. but also stops the cooking liquid from reaching a rapid
Although metal and vinyl varieties more like Western boil, so preventing ingredients being tumbled about
colanders or sieves are available, there is something and damaged. Traditionally made of wood, it should
rather satisfying in using a traditional tool made of a be slightly smaller in diameter than the pan, so that it
natural material. And they make an attractive bread sits directly on top of the foods being simmered. Soak
basket when not used for Japanese cooking. briefly before use to stop it sticking to foods.

INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT 245

GRATER OROSHIGANE 4BAL& OMELETTE PAN TAMAGOYAKIKI JHE
& at
Traditional Japanese graters give much finer results Although it is possible to make the Japanese rolled
than most Western equivalents. The best ones are omelette with an average Western round omelette
tin-coated double-sided copper graters that are used pan, having a rectangular pan makes it easy and
by professionals but they are expensive. The average reduces wastage. Professionals use heavy copper
home cooks use graters made of stainless steel, pans coated with tin but for home cooks, Teflon-
aluminium or ceramic graters, which give just as good coated non-stick ones are easier to use and maintain.
results. Available online or from Japanese stores. To clean, wipe with oil-soaked kitchen paper then a
clean cloth but never use an abrasive material nor
MANDOLINE SLICER
detergent. Available online or from Japanese stores.
This is a recent addition to the Japanese kitchen
and hence, there is no traditional Japanese name A TRADITIONAL KITCHEN INHERITANCE
for it although it is often known by the manufacture’s Not essential, but the most symbolic kitchen utensil is
name of ‘benrina’. It is an efficient tool for shredding the small wooden rice paddle, shamoji. It represents
and slicing large quantities of vegetables. These are domestic authority and when an older woman hands
available from kitchen shops. over her shamoji to her daughter-in-law, it symbolises
her wish to pass over management of household
MORTAR SURIBACHI ¥ 4 é&
affairs and is also an unspoken admission that the
AND PESTLE SURIKOG! 79 2&
younger woman has finally become the mistress of
The traditional Japanese mortar is a sturdy warm the house.
brown-coloured ceramic bowl, inside it is unglazed
and textured with a combed pattern for a better grip.
They come in various’sizes from 14cm in diameter to
more than 30cm across but for home use, 23cm across
is the most versatile. Hard wood from the Japanese
pepper tree makes the best pestles but other wood
such as paulownia or willow maybe used. A pestle is
sometimes sold together with a mortar but if buying
separately choose one that is twice as long as the
diameter of the mortar to be used with. To use, place
the mortar on top of a damp cloth to stop it sliding
while you work. Add the ingredient to be ground,
gradually. Assuming you are right-handed, loosely cap
the top of the pestle with your left hand and hold the
pestle about halfway down the length with your right
hand then rotate while pressing down at the same
time. To clean the mortar, you may need to use a stiff
brush or the tip of a bamboo skewer once in a while
to loosen any material stuck in the grooves. Available
on the internet or from Japanese stores.

246 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

KNIVES

Japanese chefs jealously guard their knives and would

never allow anyone else to touch them. Japanese
knives are in a different league from their Western
counterparts. Like Samurai swords, they are forged of
carbon steel and the blades are thicker and have only
one cutting edge on the right. A single-edge blade
cuts faster, much more accurately and cleaner than a
double-edged one and the thickness of the blade helps
to separate each slice. There are 3 basic types of knives:

CLEAVER DEBA-BOCHO HH#aT

This sturdy, sharp pointed, carving knife is used to
prepare fish and, to a lesser extent, chicken and meat.
They come in different lengths but on average, measure
between 18-30cm.

VEGETABLE KNIFE USUBA-BOCHO #H@T,

NAKIRI-BOCHO #80 aT while drawing the knife towards you, using the entire
This single edged knife is used for preparing length of the blade in all one breath. This smooth one
vegetables. Although names and shapes differ slightly stroke motion, no up-and-down or sawing movement,
between Tokyo (rectangular) and Osaka (rounded top ensures each sashimi slice is cleanly cut.
front) it does the same job of cutting, slicing, chopping,
CARBON STEEL VS. STAINLESS STEEL
and peeling. Japanese cooking involves a lot more
preparation than Western cooking as the foods are all There are two main materials for knives: carbon steel
designed to be eaten with chopsticks. If you are going and stainless steel. While carbon steel knives are
to invest in just one Japanese knife, a rounded top front
always the preferred choice among the professionals,
stainless steel knives are popular in the domestic
vegetable knife is the one to buy.
kitchen. Most stainless steel knives are softer than
SASHIMI KNIFE SASHIMI-BOCHO #llZaT carbon steel knives and are easier to sharpen, but
This long, slim-bladed knife is only used to slice boned do not stay sharp as long. Carbon steel is harder
fish fillets. There are 2 main shapes; in Osaka, the than most stainless alloys but it can also be brittle, so
knife is pointed and called yanagi-ba boché, willow- pieces of the knife-edge can break off if it is not used
leaf blade while in Tokyo, it has a square end and is correctly. Another disadvantage of carbon steel knives
called tako-biki b6ch6, octopus slicer. Both come in is that unless they are wiped dry before storing they
various lengths ranging from 18cm to an impressive can rust easily and quickly. Choosing a knife is highly
40cm. The reason for the long blade is in the way the personal, a knife that feels perfect in someone's hand,
entire length of the blade is used to slice sashimi. The whether carbon or stainless steel, may not be the right
Japanese dislike using the word kiru, cutting, because choice for someone else. So if you want to invest in a
of the Samurai tradition, the word implies killing so knife, first assess how and what you mainly cook and
instead, hiku, drawing or pulling is used. You hold the how much maintenance you are prepared to devote to
knife pointing up at about a 45° angle and touch the the knife. A good kitchen shop or, better still, a knife

fish with the lowest part (nearest to the handle) of the specialist, will be able to advise you on choosing a
blade then bring down the blade, lightly pressing down knife and also teach you how to sharpen and maintain
and letting the weight of the knife itself do the work the blade.

Ii I I I I

INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT 247

THE JAPANESE PANTRY - ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS

SOY SAUCE SHOYU #ith meat and brightens and preserves colours. It also has
One of the most important primary seasoning many health benefits — it prevents arteriosclerosis,
ingredients, soy sauce is made of fermented soy beans, lowers blood pressure, aids healthy digestion, helps
wheat, salt, and water. Outside Japan you will find fatigue recovery, stimulates healthy appetite and is
dark, light soy sauce and tamari. Dark is the general all- even known to slow down ageing process. It is widely
rounder used for both cooking and dipping while light available in bottles but can also be substituted with
is saltier and used only for cooking. Tamari is thicker slightly diluted cider vinegar.
and slightly sweeter and is used for dipping. It contains
MISO BKIG
no wheat, which is thought to enhance the aroma.
A protein-rich salty fermented soy bean paste with
Although soy sauce keeps for a long time, it is best
a distinctive aroma and flavour. It is one of the most
kept refrigerated or at least in a cool dark place and
important ingredients in Japanese cooking and is used
used within a few months of opening.
in anumber of different ways. Read notes on miso on
page 36.
RICE VINEGAR SU
Rice vinegar is made from fermented rice or sake lees MIRIN RAK
and is milder and more fragrant compared to wine A golden-coloured syrupy sweetened wine, often
vinegar (4.2-4.5% acidity opposed to 5-10% acidity). described as ‘sweet cooking sake’, used to add
As one of the key seasoning ingredients in Japanese sweetness and glaze. It is made from glutinous rice, rice
cooking it is widely used in many categories — most malt, and shdchd, Japanese spirit and has a 40-50 per
famously in making sushi rice, sunomono, Japanese- cent sugar content with 14 per cent alcohol. Although
style salads, pickles, simmering and some food it has become easier to find do not try adding sugar to
preparations. It disinfects, preserves, suppresses sake as an alternative but instead just use sugar alone —
saltiness, neutralises strong odours, tenderises tough 1 teaspoon sugar is equivalent of 1 tablespoon mirin.

248 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

SAKE i§ NORI #7
Read the note on page 135. Used as a wrapping for sushi, Nori comes in standard
17.5 x 22.5cm packs of 10 sheets. Also shredded,
INSTANT DASHI STOCK DASHI-NO-MOTO # LOS kizami-nori, for use as a garnish or to be ground to a
Let's be honest — Japanese home cooks use instant powder, and as ao-nori, also used as a garnish.
dashi all the time so you shouldn't feel guilty about
Two other types of seaweed commonly used in Japan
doing so. Available in either dry form in powder or
that are also easy to find elsewhere are Hijiki, which is
granules or as a liquid concentrate, it is sold under the
rich in calcium and iron and used in simmered or stir-fry
name of dashi-no-moto or hon-dashi. The granules
dishes. It is sold dried and looks like black long grain
contains freeze-dried ground bonito flakes and other
rice. Wakame, is also sold dried and is used mainly in
ingredients used for making dashi but it is very strong
soups, and some salads. Keep in airtight containers in a
— 1 teaspoon instant dashi powder makes 1 litre. Liquid
cool, dry, dark cupboard.
dashi is normally 4-5 times as concentrated.
BONITO FISH FLAKES KATSUOBUSH| #€&fi
AGAR-AGAR KANTEN 4X
Bonito, skipjack tuna, a member of the mackerel family,
Agar-agar is made from a type of red seaweed called
has been fished since very early times by the Japanese.
tengusa, XK, meaning ‘heavenly grass’ and has
Its fillet is steamed, dried, smoked and mould-cured
long been used for making traditional Japanese
to hardwood-like form. The shavings, which have an
confections. In the West, it has been used as the
intense smoky aroma, are one of the two essential
standard culture medium in research laboratories until
ingredients of dashi as well as being extensively used
quite recently when its marvellous quality as a gelling
as a seasoning and a topping for chilled tofu and in
agent and its health benefits began to be recognised.
salads. Outside Japan, it is usually sold ready-shaved.
Agar-agar is about 7-8 times more coagulant than
SESAME SEEDS GOMA iii
gelatine, sets at 39-42°C and melts at 85°C, which
Oil-rich nutty-flavoured seeds come in 3 different
means it stays set in the mouth, whereas gelatine
colours: white, black and golden. They are used
melts quite quickly. Agar-agar is completely vegetarian
extensively whole or ground for flavouring, in dressings
and has no calories, fat or carbohydrate but is rich in
and as a garnish. The aroma and flavour intensify when
both water-soluble and non-soluble fibre and helps
heated, crushed or ground.
to eliminate toxic wastes out of the body. It is for this
quality, recently in Japan, the agar-agar based diet PICKLED PLUMS UMEBOSHI #f-U
became popular for weight loss. It is available in sticks, This intensely salty and sour red pickled plum is
sheets or powdered forms. Japan's panacea — it is regarded as a tonic, digestive
aid and believed to keep the intestinal tract clear and
KELP KONBU £E7f
therefore, always appears at the traditional Japanese
This seaweed is one of the two key ingredients of
breakfast. It also stops rice from spoiling and thus is an
making dashi, the stock on which so many Japanese
essential item in bento, Japanese packed-lunch box.
dishes depend for its subtle flavour. There are many
They can be soft and large or firm and small. As well as
varieties of kelp and nearly all are harvested off the
being consumed on its own, it also provides refreshing
coast of Hokkaid6, dried in the sun, cut, folded and
tartness in dipping sauces or salad dressings.
packaged.
DRIED MINIATURE SARDINES CHIRIMEN-JAKO
More often than not it may be speckled with white
bY DAURS
powder which is dried salt and a umami element so it
Tiny young sardines and anchovies are boiled then
should never be washed or rinsed but just wiped with
dried. They are used as calcium-rich toppings, or a
a clean, lightly dampened cloth. Keep in an airtight
garnish in salads, also eaten mixed with grated daikon
container placed in a dry, dark cupboard.
(giant white radish).

II I II III a

INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT 249

SEVEN-SPICE CHILLI POWDER FRESH INGREDIENTS
SHICHIMI-TOGARASH
I, RFE F
There is no fixed recipe for the blend but it is usually
a mix of red chilli, togarashi, sansho, tangerine peel, BAMBOO SHOOTS TAKENOKO 4j
black hemp seeds, black and/or white sesame seeds Takenoko, literally ‘bamboo’s child’ is one of the most
and green nori seaweed. It is used as a seasoning to commonly used ingredients in Asian cooking. Although
add a kick to many dishes especially udon noodles. it has no particular nutritious value other than fibre it
Outside Japan, small bottles are easy to find. is prized for its mild taste, meaning it can be cooked
SANSHO [L4i together with many other ingredients in soups and
The seedpods of the indigenous Japanese prickly ash simmered dishes, and for its crisp texture, especially
belonging to the citrus family, are dried and ground in deep-fried or stir-fry dishes. Fresh bamboo shoots
and used as pepper. It is highly aromatic rather than still covered in layers of brown husks are welcomed
hot and spicy and has a slightly numbing effect on as the edible symbol of the arrival of a new season by
the tongue, not dissimilar to Sichuan pepper. The the Japanese, though both in Japan and abroad, it is
tender young leaves, kinome, are used as an aromatic available year-round ready-cooked either in cans or
condiment for clear soups, simmered dishes or vacuum packed in water. Once opened, both canned
salad dressings. Its buds, hana-sansho, also provide and water-packed bamboo will keep for up to 10 days
decorative and aromatic edible condiments for the if stored in fresh water in a covered container placed in
dipping sauces for sashimi and other fish dishes. the refrigerator, with the water changed daily.
Sansho pepper is sprinkled on grilled eel or chicken to BURDOCK GOBO 4-3
counterbalance the flavour and smell of fat. It is sold in It is only in Japan that this long (50-100cm), thin (2-3cm
small bottles. in diameter) root is eaten as a vegetable although its
WASABI [3% seeds are used in Chinese medicine. It has a rather
Wasabi is a perennial semi-aquatic plant indigenous bland taste and no particular nutritious value but is
to Japan, found both in wild as well as extensively eaten for its crunchy texture and its ability to absorb a
cultivated. The name in Japanese translates as wide range flavours during cooking. The most popular
“mountain hollyhock” and with attractive leaves. All way of cooking burdock is kinpira-gobo (see page
parts of the plant is eaten — leaves are made into a 219). Fresh burdock can be obtained in Japanese
refreshing vinegar pickle while Its root grated yields shops — most of the flavour lies just under the skin, so it
aromatic and pungent paste which is an essential should be scrubbed clean rather than peeled. Burdock
accompaniment for sashimi and sushi. It is often is typically cut into matchsticks or shaved like a pencil.
inaccurately described as Japanese horseradish. Once cut it must be put straight in a bowl of cold water
Although it is grown in a small scale in Taiwan, New to stop discolouration. Although available in cans, it
Zealand and Britain, fresh roots are expensive even in has no flavour and the texture is disappointing. Instead,
Japan and reserved for top restaurants. It is usually sold choose the semi-prepared frozen variety.
in dry powder form or paste in tubes. Powdered wasabi GIANT WHITE RADISH DAIKON X#it
needs to be mixed with water and set aside for about
Daikon or ‘great root’ is the most cultivated vegetable
10 minutes to develop flavour before use. Wasabi paste
in Japan. It can measure up to 60cm long, be as thick
in tubes needs to be refrigerated once opened.
as a girl's leg, and weigh as much as 2-3kg. Indeed,
NOODLES in Japanese ‘daikon-ashi’, daikon-leg, is a derogatory
Read the notes on pages 76-77. expression used to describe a woman with thick legs!
Almost all parts of a daikon are used — the green leaves
RICE for stir-fries and pickles, the peppery upper part for
Read the notes on page 90. grating and salads, the middle part for simmering and
hotpots and the peel is dried to make kiriboshi-daikon.

250 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

Even the tapering root part is used for pickles and miso tempura and rare kataziso, which is green on one side
soups. Regarded as a natural digestive, especially for of the leaf and purple on the other. Its sprigs of buds
oily foods, daikon is always served grated in tempura are served with sashimi and also made into a strong
dipping sauce and with grilled fish. Do not let grated flavoured condiment. There is no close substitute and
daikon stand around for long as it will emit a rather so omit from a recipe if not available.
unpleasant odour. Shredded daikon is also an essential
TOFU BI
accompaniment for sashimi. Daikon flesh is dense and
needs a long cooking time. Choose daikon with tight Read about on tofu on page 156.
unblemished white skin that feels dense. YUZU #
A yuzu looks like a cross between a lemon in colour
DEVIL'S TONGUE KONNYAKU ZAI e<
and a tangerine in the appearance but is not used nor
Konnyaku, is another candidate for the list of strange
eaten for its flesh but used widely for its refreshing
foods. A gelatinous paste is made from the starchy root
clean zest, peel and juice. A little sliver of its peel,
of Amorphophalus konjac, which originates in Indonesia
a pinch of grated zest or a drop of the juice in clear
and is made into either slabs or strings. It consists of 97
soups, simmered dishes, salads or hotpots gives the
per cent water and has no calories and thus is a popular
most unforgettable yet delicate aroma and flavour. The
diet food. It is eaten for its slippery, jelly-like texture
juice mixed with soy sauce and rice vinegar makes a
and is used as a side ingredient in many simmered
refreshing salad dressing which is also available ready
dishes. A white or sometimes green slab is sliced thinly
mixed as yuzupon. Outside Japan, the fresh fruit is
and served as a vegetarian sashimi. Thin strings, called
rarely available but its juice is available in small bottles
shirataki, are essential ingredients in sukiyaki and
from Japanese shops and even supermarkets. It is
feature in many hotpot dishes. Both slabs and strings
expensive but well worth the money and a little goes a
must be parboiled before use. It is sold in water-filled
long way. Its dried peel is available from specialist spice
vacuum packs and can often be found sitting next to
shops. Yuzu-koshd, yuzu-pepper paste is a regional
tofu in Japanese stores.
speciality of Kyashd and is made of grated zest mixed
LOTUS ROOT RENKON ##i with green chilli and salt. It is used as a spicy condiment
for hotpot and noodles.
This is actually a rhizome, not a root of lotus that has
long been associated with the Buddhism — the Buddha
always sits on a cushion modelled on a lotus flower.
In Japan, it was first mentioned in 8th century poems
and the sub-aquatic plant has been cultivated for
both ornamental and eating purposes. It has a fine
crisp texture rather than flavour and is used in salads
and tempura dishes, and is simmered and stir-fried. It
needs to be boiled in mild vinegared water before use.
It is available fresh from Asian store, semi-prepared in
water-pack vacuum bags or in tins (not recommended).

PERILLA SHISO 24f&

This tender annual is also called beefsteak plant and
grows to about 50cm high and comes in 3 distinct
types; the purple leaves, akaziso, are used as a natura!
red colouring for pickles, green leaves, aoziso, look
deceptively similar to stinging nettles but have a
refreshing astringent taste and flavour and are used as
an edible decoration for sashimi, in sushi, salads and in

INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT 25!

INDEX

apple sauce, Fuji 185 lemony chicken teriyaki 171 secondary dashi 30
asparagus: asparagus and scrambled mixed hotpot 204 vegetarian dashi 31
egg scattered sushi 109 noodle hotpot 205 water dashi 31
asparagus with white sesame pan-seared autumn vegetables 67 deep-frying 146-54
dressing 223 rice vinegar simmered chicken 173 dipping sauces: sesame dipping sauce
hot spring eggs on asparagus 167 savoury steamed egg custard 167 81.
pan-fried asparagus with soy and soy-marinated roast chicken 174 tempura dipping sauces 152
sesame 213 soy-simmered chicken 173 dressings: black sesame dressing 59
aubergines: grilled aubergine miso yakitori 23 grated daikon dressing 72
soup 37 Chinese cabbage: rolled Chinese sesame miso dressing 54
grilled aubergine with seasoned cabbage and spinach with sesame spicy soy dressing 64
miso 15 soy 223 tofu dressing 50, 56
lamb steaks with grilled aubergine Chinese-style noodle salad, chilled 88 wasabi avocado dressing 45
196 citrus fruit: citrus soy vinegar 51 wasabi dressing 60
avocados: avocado and prawn on Japanese-style duck orange 168 white sesame dressing 50, 56, 223
soba with wasabi sauce 82 clams: clam and samphire miso soup 41 yuzu dressing 68
Japanese-style prawn cocktail 21 sake steamed clams 144 - duck: Japanese-style duck orange 168
tofu avocado and crabmeat salad 60 cod: black cod 131 soba with duck in hot broth 78
wasabi avocado dressing 45 cod hotpot 202 dumplings, pork 182
simmered cod 135
beef: beef and potato 191 corn, soy-buttered 216 eggs: asparagus and scrambled egg
beef on rice 93 crab: crab and broccoli porridge 103 scattered sushi 109
beef udon 84 inside-out-roll sushi 119 chicken and egg on rice 93
Japanese-style beef bourguignon 192 tofu avocado and crabmeat salad 60 dashi-rolled omelette 170-1
Japanese-style burgers 189 vinegared crab 55 egg and chive porridge 104
Japanese-style steak 188 creme brilée, yuzu 230 hot spring eggs on asparagus 167
seared beef salad 72 cucumber: cucumber and tuna with Japanese-style meringues 240
broad beans, sweet-simmered 214 spicy sanbai-zu 20 omelette purse sushi 111
broccoli: cauliflower and broccoli in cucumber and wakame with vinegar rice mixed with egg and tomato 97
mustard miso 220 20 savoury egg tofu 14
crab and broccoli porridge 103 instant cucumber pickle 210 savoury steamed egg custard 167
pan-fried scallops with broccoli 132 vinegared cucumber 54 savoury thick omelette 166
broth: deep-fried tofu in broth 158 cupcakes, kinako and black sesame 239 simmered daikon with egg miso 224
soba with duck in hot broth 78 custard, savoury steamed egg 167 swirling egg clear soup 35
burgers: Japanese-style burgers 189 thin omelettes 110
tofu burger 160 daikon 250-1
giant white radish with deep-fried tofu fish see cod; salmon, etc
carrots: green beans and carrot in white miso soup 40
sesame dressing 56 grated daikon dressing 72 Genghis Khan 195
cauliflower and broccoli in mustard pork and white radish stew 184 ginger: ginger-vinegar 139
miso 220 simmered daikon with egg miso 224 leeks in ginger miso 219
cheesecake, yuzu tofu 229 yellowtail with giant white radish 140 pan-fried pork chops with ginger 177
chicken: chicken and egg on rice 93 dashi
29, 249 pan-fried pork loin with ginger 180
chicken and miso porridge 104 dashi-rolled omelette 170-1 roast pumpkin ginger mash 216
chicken hotpot 201 dashi-soaked spinach 19 gratin, oven-baked miso and tofu 163
chilled Chinese-style noodle salad 88 primary dashi 29 green beans: fine bean in black sesame

252 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 dressing 59 mackerel clear soup 32 avocado and prawn on soba 82
green beans and carrot in white mackerel in miso 143 beef udon 84
sesame dressing 56 salt-grilled horse mackerel 124 chilled Chinese-style noodle salad 88
green tea 241 maple radish sauce 158 chilled soba in basket 78
green tea ice cream 233 mapo tofu: Japanese-style mapo tofu chilled soba with spinach and
matcha jelly 239 164 wakame 81
vegetarian mapo tofu 165 moon udon 84
hijiki: hijiki and deep-fried tofu in soy 12 matcha jelly 239 mushroom soba 81
hijiki in tofu dressing 56 . meringues: Mt Fuji 230 noodle hotpot 205
Hokkaido salmon miso soup 42 three Japanese-style meringues 240 Sapporo miso ramen 87
hotpots: chicken hotpot 201 miso 36, 248 soba with duck in hot broth 78
cod hotpot 202 chicken and miso porridge 104 soy ramen 86
mixed hotpot 204 clam and samphire miso soup 41 tuna and rocket on soba 82
noodle hotpot 205 deep-fried tofu miso soup 40 nori 249
salmon and miso hotpot 206 grilled aubergine miso soup 37 okra in sesame vinegar with nori 215
tuna hotpot 204 grilled aubergine with seasoned
miso 15 omelettes: dashi-rolled omelette 170-1
ice cream: black sesame ice cream 232 grilled tofu with seasoned miso 24 omelette purse sushi 111
green tea ice cream 233 grilled tuna in red miso 130 savoury thick omelette 166
Hokkaid6 salmon miso soup 42 thin omelettes 110
Japanese onion soup 37 leeks in ginger miso 219 onions: Japanese onion soup 37
Japanese pancake, savoury 22 mackerel in miso 143 onion-miso sauce 188
Japanese-style beef bourguignon 192 miso-marinated racks of lamb 198
Japanese-style burgers 189 miso mayo 67 pancake, savoury Japanese 22
Japanese-style duck orange 168 mustard miso 220 panna cotta, black sesame 234
Japanese-style mapo tofu 164 onion-miso sauce 188 peas, rice cooked with fresh 94
Japanese-style meringues 240 oven-baked miso and tofu gratin 163 peppers: green and yellow pepper
Japanese-style prawn cocktail 21 red miso soup of sea bream 42 kinpira 219
Japanese-style rdsti with soy pork 177 salmon and miso hotpot 206 pickle, instant cucumber 210
Japanese-style steak with onion-miso Sapporo miso ramen 87 plaice: deep-fried plaice 147
sauce 188 sesame miso dressing 54 paper-thin sashimi of plaice 48
jelly: matcha jelly 239 simmered daikon with egg miso 224 plaice in parcel 128
spinach and tofu jelly 16 three mushroom and spinach miso plums, pickled 249
soup 40 pork: deep-fried pork 186
kinako and black sesame cupcakes 239 tofu and wakame miso soup 38 Japanese-style rdésti with soy pork 177
kinpira, green and yellow pepper 219 moon udon 84 pan-fried pork chops with ginger 177
Kyoto tiramisu 234 Mt Fuji 230 pan-fried pork loin with ginger 180
mushrooms: mushroom in sesame miso pork and white radish stew 184
lamb: Genghis Khan 195 dressing 54 pork dumplings 182
lamb chops with sansho pepper 194 mushroom rice 94 quick-simmered pork belly 178
lamb shank and potato stew 198 mushroom soba 81 slow-roast pork belly with Fuji apple
lamb steaks with grilled aubergine soy-seeped mushrooms 220 sauce 185
196 three mushroom and spinach miso porridge: crab and broccoli porridge
miso-marinated racks of lamb 198 soup 40 103
leeks in ginger miso 219 tofu steaks with mushrooms 160 egg and chive porridge 104
lemons: lemony chicken teriyaki 171 mustard miso 220 rice, chicken and miso porridge 104
potatoes: beef and potato 191
mackerel: deep-fried marinated nihon nigoise 70 lamb shank and potato stew 198
mackerel 150 noodles: all-purpose noodle sauce 77 new potato tumble 214

ee Edn EEEE EEE

INDEX 253
prawns: avocado and prawn on soba 82 salad 88 seafood: seafood tempura with
handball-sushi 120 grilled summer vegetables 64 vegetables 154
Japanese-style prawn cocktail 21 nihon nigoise 70 see also clams; prawns, etc
mixed hotpot 204 pan-seared autumn vegetables 67 sesame seeds 249
noodle hotpot 205 seared beef salad 72 asparagus with white sesame
savoury thick omelette 166 tofu and watercress salad 59 dressing 223
simmered prawn-balls and turnips 137 tofu avocado and crabmeat salad 60 black sesame dressing 59
tiger prawn clear soup 32 warm spring vegetable salad 62 black sesame ice cream 232
pumpkin: roast pumpkin ginger mash warm winter vegetables and salmon black sesame panna cotta 234
216 salad 68 black sesame paste 232
salmon: handball-sushi 120 kinako and black sesame cupcakes
radish, giant white see daikon Hokkaidésalmon miso soup 42 237
ramen 76, 86 pan-seared salmon in nanban-style rolled Chinese cabbage and spinach
Sapporo miso ramen 87 129 with sesame soy 223
rice: asparagus and scrambled egg pressed sushi of smoked salmon 113 sesame dipping sauce 81
scattered sushi 109 salmon and miso hotpot 206 sesame miso dressing 54
beef on rice 93 salt-salmon 102 sesame vinegar 52, 215
chicken and egg on rice 93 smoked salmon scattered sushi 109 white sesame dressing 50, 56, 223
crab and broccoli porridge 103 warm winter vegetables and salmon simmering 134-43
egg and chive porridge 104 salad 68 smoked salmon: handball-sushi 120
hand-rolled sushi 116 salt: salt-grilled horse mackerel 124 pressed sushi of smoked salmon 113
handball-sushi 120 salt-grilled sea bass 125 smoked salmon scattered sushi 109
inside-out-roll sushi 119 salt-salmon 102 soba noodles 76
mushroom rice 94 samphire: clam and samphire miso avocado and prawn on soba 82
omelette purse sushi 111 soup 41 chilled soba in basket 78
plain boiled rice 92 sanbai-zu, cucumber and tuna with chilled soba with spinach and
pressed sushi of smoked salmon 113 spicy 20 wakame 81
red rice 98 Sapporo miso ramen 87 mushroom soba 81
rice balls 100 sardines: sardines in ginger-vinegar 139 soba with duck in hot broth 78
rice cooked with fresh peas 94 spicy deep-fried sardines 148 tuna and rocket on soba 82
rice gruel 103 sashimi: paper-thin sashimi of plaice 48 sorbet, yuzu 233
rice mixed with egg and tomato 97 tuna cubes with wasabi avocado soups: clam and samphire miso soup 41
rice porridge 103 dressing 45 clear soup with sea bream 35
salt-salmon and rice 102 yellowtail sashimi 46 deep-fried tofu miso soup 40
sea bream rice 98 sauces: all-purpose noodle sauce 77 grilled aubergine miso soup 37
stuffed sushi 112 Fuji apple sauce 185 Hokkaid6salmon miso soup 42
sushi rice 106-7 maple radish sauce 158 Japanese onion soup 37
tea-flavoured rice 100 onion-miso sauce 188 mackerel clear soup 32
thick-roll sushi 117 see also dipping sauces red miso soup of sea bream 42
thin-roll sushi 114 scallops: deep-fried scallops in rice swirling egg clear soup 35
tuna on rice 97 crackers 151 three mushroom and spinach miso
rice crackers, deep-fried scallops in noodle hotpot 205 soup 40
151 pan-fried scallops with broccoli 132 tiger prawn clear soup 32
rocket: tuna and rocket on soba 82 sea bass: sake-steamed sea bass 144 tofu and wakame miso soup 38
rdsti, Japanese-style 177 salt-grilled sea bass 125 soy sauce 248
sea bream: clear soup with sea bream butter soy 128
sake 135, 249, 249 35 citrus soy vinegar 51
sake-steamed clams 144 mixed hotpot 204 Japanese-style rdsti with soy pork 177
sake-steamed sea bass 144 red miso soup of sea bream 42 pan-fried asparagus with soy and
salads: chilled Chinese-style noodle sea bream rice 98 sesame 213

254 COOK JAPANESE AT HOME

 rolled Chinese cabbage and spinach deep-fried tofu in broth 158 vinegar 248
with sesame soy 223 deep-fried tofu miso soup 40 citrus soy vinegar 51
soy-buttered corn 216 grilled tofu with seasoned miso 24 cucumber and wakame with vinegar
soy-marinated roast chicken 174 hijiki and deep-fried tofu in soy 12 20
soy ramen 86 hijiki in tofu dressing 56 five colours in vinegar 52
soy-seeped mushrooms 220 Japanese-style mapo tofu 164 ginger-vinegar 139
soy-simmered chicken 173 mixed hotpot 204 rice vinegar simmered chicken 173
spicy soy dressing 64 noodle hotpot 205 sesame vinegar 52, 215
spinach: chilled soba with spinach and oven-baked miso and tofu gratin 163 sunomono vinegars 51
wakame 81 savoury egg tofu 14 sushi vinegar 107
dashi-soaked spinach 19 spinach and tofu jelly 16 sweet vinegar 51
rolled Chinese cabbage and spinach stuffed sushi 112 three-flavour vinegar 51
223 teriyaki tofu steaks 157 two-flavour vinegar 51
simmered squid with spinach 136 tofu and wakame miso soup 38 vinegar squeezed spring cabbage
spinach and tofu jelly 16 tofu and watercress salad 59 vinegared crab 55
three mushroom and spinach miso tofu avocado and crabmeat salad 60 vinegared cucumber 54
soup 40 tofu burger 160 wasabi vinegar 52
spring cabbage: salt-squeezed spring tofu dressing 50
cabbage 213 tofu steaks with mushrooms 160 wakame: chilled soba with spinach and
vinegar squeezed spring cabbage vegetarian mapo tofu 165 wakame 81
squid: simmered squid with spinach 136 yuzu tofu cheesecake 229 cucumber and wakame with vinegar
stews: lamb shank and potato stew 198 Tokyo roll 236 20
pork and white radish stew 184 tomato, rice mixed with egg and 97 tofu and wakame miso soup 38
sushi: asparagus and scrambled egg tuna: cucumber and tuna with spicy wasabi 250
scattered sushi 109 sanbai-zu 20 wasabi avocado dressing 45
hand-rolled sushi 116 grilled tuna in red miso 130 wasabi dressing 60
handball-sushi 120 nihon nigoise 70 wasabi pouring sauce 82
inside-out-roll sushi 119 thin-roll sushi 114 wasabi vinegar 52
omelette purse sushi 111 tuna and rocket on soba 82 water dashi 31
pressed sushi 112, 113 tuna cubes with wasabi avocado watercress: tofu and watercress salad 59
rolled sushi 116 dressing 45
smoked salmon scattered sushi 109 tuna hotpot 204 yakitori 23
stuffed sushi 112 tuna on rice 97 yellowtail: yellowtail sashimi 46
sushi rice 106-7 tuna steak with butter soy 128 yellowtail teriyaki 126
sushi vinegar 107 turnips, simmered prawn-balls and 137 yellowtail with giant white radish 140
thick-roll sushi 117 yuzu 251
thin-roll sushi 114 udon noodles 76 yuzu creme brilée 230
swirling egg clear soup 35 beef udon 84 yuzu dressing 68
moon udon 84 yuzu sorbet 233
tea, Japanese 241-2 noodle hotpot 205 “yuzu tofu cheesecake 229
green tea ice cream 233
tea-flavoured rice 100 vegetables: grilled summer vegetables
tempura: mixed tempura 153 64
seafood tempura 154 pan-seared autumn vegetables 67
teriyaki: lemony chicken teriyaki 171 seafood tempura with vegetables
teriyaki tofu steaks 157 154
yellowtail teriyaki 126 warm spring vegetable salad 62
tiramisu, Kyoto 234 warm winter vegetables and salmon
tofu 156 salad 68
chilled tofu 12 see also carrots; turnips, etc

Sirs Ltda

INDEX 255
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

My foremost thanks goes to Kyle Cathie and her

brilliant team — Judith Hannam, the editor, and her
assistant, Hannah Coughlin — and my agent Clare
Hulton. My big special thanks to Emma Lee, the
photographer, her assistant Lizzie Mayson, prop stylist
Lucy Attwater and, above all, Aya Nishimura, the food
: stylist, and her assistants Sian Henley, lona Blackshaw,
Charlottle O’Connell — for striding together to make .
this book happen. | also extend my gratitude to the
copy editor Jane Bamforth and designer Miranda
oo
Ba Harvey, and Tim Delaney of Legas Delaney and David
Green of Carnell Green for helping me to come up
with the title. ;

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 ISBN 978-0-85783-306-8

780857 8330
Bh iiarephy: Emma Lee
www.kylebooks.¢o.uk