VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS AND THEIR

TROUBLESHOOTING

PREPARED BY:

MD. JOHIR UDDIN

Student No-113428
TANVIR MOHAMMAD FAISAL
Student No-113409
MOHAMMAD JAMIR HOSSAIN
Student No-113414

SUPERVISED BY:

DR. MD. FAISAL KADER

ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR
MCE DEPARTMENT

ISLAMIC UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY (IUT)

The Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC)
Department of Mechanical & Chemical Engineering (MCE)
Board Bazar, Gazipur-1704
October, 2013
 VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS AND THEIR
TROUBLESHOOTING

PREPARED BY:

MD. JOHIR UDDIN

Student No-113428
TANVIR MOHAMMAD FAISAL
Student No-113409
MOHAMMAD JAMIR HOSSAIN
Student No-113414

SUPERVISED BY:

DR. MD. FAISAL KADER

ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR
MCE DEPARTMENT

ISLAMIC UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY (IUT)

The Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC)
Department of Mechanical & Chemical Engineering (MCE)
Board Bazar, Gazipur-1704
October, 2013
CERTIFICATE OF RESEARCH:
The Thesis title “VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS AND THEIR TROUBLESHOOTING” submitted by
Md. Johir Uddin (113428), Tanvir Mohammad Faisal (113409) and Mohammad Jamir
Hossain (113414) have been accepted as satisfactory in partial fulfillment of the
requirement for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Mechanical & Chemical
Engineering (MCE) on October, 2013

Signature of the Supervisor:

Dr. Md. Faisal Kader

Associate Professor
Department of Mechanical & Chemical Engineering (MCE)
Islamic University of Technology (IUT), OIC

Signature Head of the Department:

Prof. Dr. Md. Abdur Razzaq Akhanda

Department of Mechanical & Chemical Engineering (MCE)
Islamic University of Technology (IUT), OIC
Board Bazar, Gazipur-1704
DECLARATION:
The is to certify that the work presented in this thesis is an outcome of experiment
and research carried out by the authors under the supervision of Dr. Md. Faisla
Kader.

Signature of the candidate

________________________________
Md. Johir Uddin
Student No-113428
MCE Department
Islamic University of Technology (IUT)

Signature of the candidate

________________________________
Tanvir Mohammad Faisal
Student No-113409
MCE Department
Islamic University of Technology (IUT)

Signature of the candidate

________________________________
Muhammad Jamir Hossain
Student No-113414
MCE Department
Islamic University of Technology (IUT)

Signature of the Supervisor

________________________________
Dr. Md. Faisal Kader
Associate Professor
Department of Mechanical & Chemical Engineering (MCE)
Islamic University of Technology (IUT), OIC
Board Bazar, Gazipur-1704
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We express our heartiest gratefulness to Almighty Allah for His divine

blessings, which made us possible to complete this thesis successfully.

First and foremost, we feel grateful and acknowledge our profound

indebtedness to, Associate Professor Dr. Md. Faisal Kader, Department of
Mechanical and Chemical Engineering, IUT.

His endless patience, scholarly guidance, continual encouragement,

constant and energetic supervision, constructive criticism, valuable advice at all
stage has made it possible to complete this project.

Special thanks to Md. Roqibul Hassan, Senior operator (Automotive Lab),

IUT for their useful suggestions and cooperation without which this project
implementation would not have been possible. We would also like to offer
thanks to all who contributed us in many ways during the project work. Finally,
thanks goes to our friends and families whose inspirations kept us going on with
this project successfully.

In particular, we are thanking our parents and friends for their emotional
support and encouragement, as through them, I found the motivation and focus
to complete this project.

We seek excuse for any errors that might be in this report despite our best
efforts.
 ABSTRACT

While owning a car, either that is new or old, by the passage of time it
will wear while the normal use. For this reason, in this project we have tried to
find out "Vehicle Diagnosis and their Troubleshooting". Basically we have gone
through eight most important and common problems, their causes and the
remedies. During developing the project, we have tried to study and analyze the
theories of those problems through different books and websites and later we
have compared some of them practically.
Mainly the problems in a typical vehicle can be diagnosed commonly as
having a visual inspection. In this method, the system should be known clearly to
the inspector and the parts to inspect and to have a bit of information
historically regarding to the vehicle problems. Then it has to be inspected and
the problem can be diagnosed and should search for the probable solutions. In
some cases, this does not work fully to diagnose the problems. For this reason
specific methods and procedures should be followed to find the problems that
we have mentioned in our project about some of the common problems and
after analyzing the problems, the probable solutions should be sought.
Lastly, it has to be mentioned that for most topics, for a clear understanding
we have mentioned a little bit of the construction and working principle of the
concerned part and after that about the problems and how to rectify them in
details.
 CONTENTS

TOPICS PAGE NO

CHAPTER-1: STARTING AND CRANKING PROBLEMS IN AUTOMOTIVE

ENGINES
1.1. Introduction 01
1.2. Engine will not crank 01
1.3. Engine Trouble diagnosis chart (Cranking) 02

CHAPTER 2: BATTERY TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS

2.1. Introduction 04
2.2. How to Troubleshoot an Automobile Battery 06
2.3. Battery Testing 08
2.4. Analyzing Battery Troubles 12
2.5. Six important tips for Battery maintenance of a car 13

CHAPTER 3: LUBRICANT LEAKAGE

3.1. Lubrication 15
3.2. Introduction 16
3.3. How to Stop Auto Oil Leaks 17
3.4. Engine oil change 18
3.5. Checking the engine oil 19

CHAPTER 4: SPARK PLUG DIAGNOSIS ANALYSIS

4.1. Brief Introduction of Spark-plug 21
4.2. Spark-plug problems and their troubleshooting 23
4.3. Visual Inspection of spark-plugs and their Remedies 24
4.4. Signs & Symptoms of Bad Spark-Plug Wires 25

CHAPTER 5: AUTOMOTIVE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS AND THEIR

TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
5.1. Automotive Air Conditioning Systems 28
5.2. A/C cooling problem 34
5.3. AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: REFRIGERANT LEAKS 35
5.4. POOR COOLING PERFORMANCE 36
5.5. INTERMITTENT COOLING 36

CHAPTER 6: TIMING BELT TROUBLE SHOOTING

6.1. Introduction 37
6.2 Timing belt Troubleshooting 38
6.3. Instructions 39
6.4. Failure 39
TOPICS PAGE NO

CHAPTER 7: BRAKING SYSTEM AND ITS TROUBLE SHOOTING

7.1. Braking System 41
7.2 Vehicles are equipped with three major kinds of brakes 41
7.3. Trouble shooting car’s brake system 46

CHAPTER 8: SHOCK ABSORBERS

8.1. Shock Absorber 50
8.2 Kinds of Absorbing Techniques 51
8.3. Heavy-Duty Shocks 51
8.4. Construction and working principle of a shock absorber 51
8.5. Problems that may occur in a suspension system and shock absorber 53
 Chapter 1
Starting and cranking problems in Automotive
Engines

1.1 Introduction:
Cranking and starting the engine is one of the common problems, usually faced by the
Vehicle owners. Particularly, the vehicles driven for sometimes might be facing these
problems a lot.

In order to get rid of such problems, the drivers or the vehicle owners are strongly
Advised to follow some step and instructions so as not to damage your car components
and to safely crank and start the vehicle.

The following chapter gives you a brief idea of Engine cranking problems, the possible
causes and how to overcome that, in which five possibilities are discussed. And at the
end, the ENGINE TROUBLE- DIAGNOSIS CHART gives a general idea of the above
mentioned problem.

1.2 Engine will not crank:

If the engine will not crank when starting is attempted, make sure the shift lever is in
Neutral (N) or PARK (p). Or, if the car has a manual transmission, make sure the
clutch pedal is depressed. Check the battery and cables. To locate the cause, turn on
the headlights and try cranking. There are five possibilities.

1. No cranking, No lights: this is probably due to a completely dead battery. It could be

a bad connection at the battery or starting motor or an open fusible link (which would
indicate a short or ground in the system) .

1
 2. No Cranking, but lights Go Out As You Turn the Key to Start: This usually means
a bad connection at the battery or starting motor or an open fusible link (which would
indicate a short or ground in the system)
3. No Cranking and Lights Dim Only Slightly as You Try to start: the trouble is
probably in the starting motor. The pinion may not be engaging with the flywheel. If
the starting-motor armature spins, the overrunning clutch is slipping.
4. No Cranking, and lights Dim Heavily As you try to Start: this is probably due to a
run-down battery. It could be low temperature. The battery is less efficient at low
temperatures, and the engine is harder to crank due to thickening of the lubricating oil.
he combination could prevent cranking, even though the battery is in good condition.
Also, the starting motor or engine could be jammed or locked.
5. No Cranking and Lights Stay Bright: Listen for a loud click as you try to start. If you
don't hear it, the solenoid is not pulling the plunger in. connect one end of a jumper lead to
the solenoid battery terminal. Connect the other end to a small terminal on the solenoid that
is connected to the ignition switch. If nothing happens, the trouble is in the solenoid. If the
solenoid and starting motor operate with the jumper lead connected, the trouble is in ignition
switch, transmission switch, or wiring.

1.3 Engine Trouble diagnosis chart (Cranking)

Trouble Possible Cause Check or Correction

1. Engine will not a. Run-down battery Recharge or replace battery;

Start engine with jumper
crank
battery and cables
b. starting circuit open find and eliminate the open;
check for dirty or loose cables
c. Starting-motor drive jammed Remove starting motor and
free drive
d. starting motor jammed Remove starting motor for
disassembly and repair

e. Engine jammed Check engine to find trouble

f. Transmission not in neutral check and adjust neutral switch

or neutral switch out of if necessary
adjustment

g. Seat belt not fastened or check interlock

interlocks faulty

2
2. Engine cranks a. Partly discharged Recharge or replace battery;
slowly but will not battery and cables start engine with jumper
b. Defective starting battery
start
motor Repair or replace
c. bad connections in check for undersize, loose, or
starting circuit dirty cables; replace , or clean
and tighten

3. Engine Cranks at a. Defective ignition Try spark test; check timing,

system ignition system
normal speed but will
Check accelerator pump
not start b. Defective fuel pump or discharge, fuel pump, fuel line,
over choking choke , carburetor

c. Air leaks into intake Tighten mounting; replace

manifold gaskets as needed
d. Defect in engine Check compression or leakage
e. Ignition coil or resistor Replace
burned out
f. Plugged fuel filter Clean or replace
g. Plugged or collapsed Replace collapsed parts
exhaust system

Fig: 1.1 Trouble Diagnosis chart

Reference:
AUTOMOTIVE Engines (Tenth Edition) William H. Crouse Donald L Agnlin

3
 Chapter 2
Battery Trouble Diagnosis
2.1 Introduction

An automobile battery provides the necessary power to turn the starter motor and supply the
ignition system with electricity at start up. Automobile batteries also provide an electrical
return, or chassis ground, for the automotive electrical system.

The battery acts as the nerve centre of a car's entire electrical system, storing energy
produced by the alternator or generator and supplying it to those systems requiring smooth,
uninterrupted, and continuous current (lights, fuel injection system, main computer).
There are several types of batteries used in modern automobiles, each varying in performance
and price.

4
Batteries come in three varieties - conventional batteries (using a conventional lead-sulfuric
acid matrix), low-maintenance batteries (using low-antimony content lead and sulfuric acid),
and maintenance-free batteries (using lead-calcium matrices and an electrolytes of low vapor
pressure).

Conventional batteries may be easily recognized by the presence of vent caps through which
hydrogen and water vapor are expelled during the charging process. These vent caps must be
removed periodically to add distilled water to the electrolyte.

Low-maintenance and maintenance-free batteries have, at the most, four small vent holes.
The alloys and electrolytes used, however, last for the designed life of the battery and should
never require the addition of distilled water.

Battery problems are one of the most common problems associated with car. With a little bit
of care and simple preventive maintenance lots of problems associated with battery may be
avoided. In case of conventional battery, regularly check the level of distilled water and add
if necessary. Maintenance-free batteries, despite their name, require minimal care. The posts
and cable terminals must be kept free of corrosion and deposits so that the battery can
continue delivering its charge at peak efficiency.

When servicing a battery, work in an open, ventilated area, and always wear safety glasses.
Battery acid is very corrosive: take care not to get any on your skin or clothes.

Use a solution of baking soda and water to wipe away corrosion from the top of the battery
and around the posts. Baking soda is a base, so it will neutralize the acidic deposits that have
built up on the outside of the battery.

Use a wire-bristle battery brush to clean deposits from the posts. Some brushes also have an
attachment for cleaning inside the opening of the battery cable.

To help prevent future corrosion, apply petroleum jelly to the inside of the terminals and the
posts before reattaching the cables.

If you are not using the vehicle for a long period of a month or so then remove the terminals
from the battery. This prevents the discharge and prolongs the life of the battery.

5
2.2 How to Troubleshoot an Automobile Battery

If you have owned and operated a vehicle for more than five years, chances are you've
encountered a problem with the battery. Most 12-volt batteries last between three and five
years. During this period, however, the battery may discharge or fail for various reasons. You
can perform a few basic tests to troubleshoot and diagnose the problem

2.2.1Instructions

Things you'll need:

Digital voltmeter
Wrench set Wire
brush
12-volt battery charger
Eye protection
Gloves

1. Turn off all of the vehicle's electrical accessories. Unplug cell phones or
other devices connected to the vehicle's charging system. Take the key out
of the ignition.

2. Open the hood and locate the battery. Due to guards or battery covers,
you may not see the battery immediately. Remove the guards or covers.
Remove any plastic guards that shroud the battery terminals.

3. Check for corrosion on the battery terminals that may cause the battery
to drain or to limit its ability to charge correctly. If you see corrosion on the
terminals or posts, clean them thoroughly with a small wire brush. Wipe the
battery with an old rag; a battery covered in grime is more likely to discharge
than a clean, well-maintained battery

6
4. Check the tightness of the battery terminals and cables. If you can wriggle
the terminals, they are too loose and that may be the cause of the battery
failure. Tighten the clamps on the terminals with the appropriate wrench.
Check the cables that run to the battery. If the cables are not securely attached
to the terminals, you must refasten them. Replace the cables if they are
damaged.

Fig- 2.1 A typical battery for checking for corrosion and

cleaning operation

Check the current state of charge in the automobile battery. Attach a digital

5. Voltmeter to the battery itself. Begin by ensuring the voltmeter is set to the
12- volt scale and then proceed by connecting the meter's positive and negative
test leads to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. The reading on
the digital meter should be around 12.6 volts if your battery is charged and
working correctly. If the reading is 12.4 or less, the battery should be
recharged.

7
2.3 Battery Testing

Battery testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is
measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a
temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A
quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface
charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you
may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several
minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are
ready to test the battery.

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage

12V 6V

100% 1.265 12.7 6.3

*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2

50% 1.190 12.2 6.1

25% 1.155 12.0 6.0

Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

Fig-2.3 Relationship of specific gravity, state of charge and voltage

8
 *Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or
voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery.
Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the
ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps
from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be
purchased at most auto parts stores.

Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This
number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery
would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed
if the battery is near or at full charge.

The results of your testing should be as follows:

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The
sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher
in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range
on a charged battery, which typically indicates a shorted cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter
and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in
hydrometer (black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6.
You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in
the battery.

2.3.1 Hydrometer test method:

Construction and Working principle of hydrometer test.

Hydrometer is a long glass capillary with a bulb at the bottom sealed at both ends.
The bulb is filled with metallic balls such that the hydrometer when immersed in a
column of liquid floats and the liquid level on its stem shows the specific gravity of
the liquid.
They are available in the range from 1.100 to 1.200, 1.200 to 1.300 and so on.

9
Fig.2.3.1 A typical hydrometer fig.2 .3.2 Hydrometer Test method

cell with a float hydrometer. Reading must be taken at eye level. The higher the float
stem sticks out of electrolyte, the higher the state of charge of that cell

10
2.3.2 Battery load tester:

After the battery passes the state of charge test, its performance can be checked by making a
battery load test.
This measures terminal voltage while the battery is discharging at a high rate. The load is
applied using a tester that includes a voltmeter, an ammeter, and a carbon pile (variable)
resister

Fig2.3.3- Battery load tester Arrangements

11
 6. Recharge the car battery with a 12-volt charger. Allow the battery to
charge fully and to sit 12 hours afterward. Retest the battery with your digital
meter.
Another low reading would indicate that your battery is incapable of
sustaining a charge and must be replaced.

7. Check that the problem lies with the battery and not the alternator. Attach
the voltmeter to the battery terminals while the vehicle is idling. If the meter
reads somewhere in the range of 13.5 to 14.5 volts, your charging system is
fine; less than 13.5, however, indicates a problem with the alternator rather
than the battery.

2.4 Analyzing Battery Troubles

Overcharging and Undercharging are the two main causes of battery troubles.

2.4.1 Overcharging:
-cap battery requires frequent addition of water, it is probably being
overcharged.

The exposed plate surfaces may be ruined.

plates
The high voltage that causes overcharging also damage other electric and electronic
components

2.4.2 Undercharging

12
Possible causes include:

1. Charging-system malfunction
2. Defective connections in charging system 3.
Excessive load demands on battery 4.
Defective battery

5. Self-discharge resulting from battery sitting idle for long periods

6. Excessive key-off current drain

2. 5 6 important tips for Battery maintenance of a car

Car batteries are full of toxic chemicals and have to be dealt with especially when they die.
The green thing to do is to squeeze as much life out of them as possible and decrease the
overall amount of batteries that you are going to need in your lifetime. Here are some tips for
that.

1. Park in a Garage
A thoroughly insulated garage will keep your battery warm in the winter. Skip heated
garages. They will rust your car.

2. Keep Your Battery Clean

Remove the clamps and clean away grease, dirt and oxidation. A filthy battery
connection will weaken the charge.

3. Insulate Your Car Battery

if you don't have an insulated garage, you can always insulate the battery. It's a cheap
way to protect the battery.

13
 4. Recharge it with Solar

you can purchase an inexpensive solar charger for your car battery.

The charger refills your battery's charge with solar energy.

5. Add Distilled Water

if you're stretching the life of a conventional battery, you may have to add some water
to it.

References:
1. http://www.iloveindia.com/cars/car-maintenance-tips/car-electrical-system/car-
battery/index.html [accessed 29-03-2011]

2. http://www.ehow.com/how_6526896_troubleshoot-car-battery-terminal.html
[accessed 24-03-2011]

3. AUTOMOTIVE Mechanics (tenth Edition) William H. Crouse Donald

L Agnlin

14
 Chapter 3
Lubricant leakage
3.1 Lubrication:
Lubrication is the process, or technique employed to reduce wear of one or both surfaces in
close proximity, and moving relative to each another, by interposing a substance called
lubricant between the surfaces to carry or to help carry the load (pressure generated)
between the opposing surfaces.

Figure 3.1—Typical full force-feed lubrication system.

This passage not only feeds the piston pin bearings but also provides lubrication for the
pistons and cylinder walls. This system is used in virtually all engines that are equipped with
full-floating piston pins, as shown in the figure above.

15
3.2 Introduction:

Oil leaks are usually indicative of a car problem that will get worse over time. If the leak
is due to a gasket failure, the oil will eventually drip out. While a minor transmission leak
just causes stains, a major leak will lower the transmission fluid too low and allow gear parts
to grind themselves to the point of failure.

An engine leak will allow oil to seep out onto a hot engine. This can cause a fire.
Alternatively, if the engine oil leaks out to the road, enough leakage will drain the engine oil
level and the engine could seize up due to lack of lubrication.

To troubleshoot an engine lubricating system, begin by gathering information on the

problem. Ask the operator questions. Analyze the symptoms using your understanding of
system operation. You should arrive at a logical deduction about the cause of the problem.
The four problems most often occur in the lubrication system are as follows:

1) High oil consumption (oil must be added frequently)

2) Low oil pressure (gauge reads low, indicator light glows, or abnormal engine
noises)
3) High oil pressure (gauge reads high, oil filter swelled)
4) Defective indicator or gauge circuit (inaccurate operation or readings)

When diagnosing these troubles, make a visual inspection of the engine for obvious
problems. Check for oil leakage, disconnected sending unit wire, low oil level, damaged oil
pan, or other troubles that relate to the symptoms.
High Oil Consumption: If the operator must add oil frequently to the engine, this is a
symptom of high oil consumption. External oil leakage out of the engine or internal leakage
of oil into the combustion chambers causes high oil consumption. A description of the
External and internal oil leakages follow below which is important from subject point of
views.

External oil leakage—detected as darkened oil wet areas on or around the engine. Oil may
also be found in small puddles under the vehicle. Leaking gaskets or seals are usually the
source of external engine oil leakage.
Internal oil leakage—shows up as blue smoke exiting the exhaust system of the vehicle. For
example, if the engine piston rings and cylinders are badly worn, oil can enter the
combustion chambers and will be burned during combustion.

16
3.3 How to Stop Auto Oil Leaks

Oil is used to lubricate an automobile engine, automatic transmission, differential and other
mechanical parts of a car. The most common oil leaks are from the valve cover of the engine.
The valve cover is attached to the rest of the engine by bolts. A gasket fits between the metal
valve cover and engine block to prevent oil from seeping or leaking. Normal engine use can
cause the gasket to fail or loosen, causing an oil leak.

Identify the Leak

1. Find the source of the leak. Open the hood of the car and see if there is
dust accumulated on an oil seep or leak. Wipe the area clean with paper
towels and degreaser. Drive the car for a day or so, and check whether fresh
oil can be identified at any leakage point.

2. Try torquing the bolts back to specifications. If you can access the bolts
that
hold together two engine parts where the leak is occurring, make sure they are
tight. You will need to check the owner's manual for correct torque for bolts.
Never over tighten, or you may strip the threads for the nuts on the bolts or the
threads in the engine block.

3. Clean and degrease the leak area. Drive the car for a day or so to see if
that stopped the leak. If the area remains clean but you still have oil dripping
off the car, look for a leak lower on the engine.

4. Check power steering lines and engine hoses for leaks by degreasing them
and examining for fresh oil after driving the car for a day or so.

5. Re-torque attachments for hoses or lines if you find a leak. If the leak
persists, replace the hose or line.

17
 6. If you still have a leak, replace the gasket when possible. For
example, remove the valve cover(s) and replace the valve cover gasket.
Remove spark
plug wires (label them so you know how to put them back) and any other
attachments depending on the model of the car.

7. Take the valve cover off and remove the old gasket.

8. Install the new gasket per manufacturer's instructions.

Replace the valve cover and torque down the nuts or bolts to
manufacturer's specifications. Replace spark plug, wires and other
attachments

3.4 Engine oil change

Fig. 3.2 Oil sludge

Why regular oil changes are so important? What will happen if I miss my oil change?
Engine oil has limited life - after a certain point it starts losing lubricating qualities and
carbonizes. Once it happens, the engine gets contaminated with carbon deposits or sludge
(see the photo) that significantly shortens engine's life.

18
When you change oil at or before manufacturer suggested interval, you change the oil before
this "carbonizing" point, engine remains clean and once refilled with new oil ready to work
hard again.

If the engine oil has not been changed for long, carbon deposits start clogging the oil pick-up
screen decreasing oil supply and increasing friction.
If you don't remember when you changed the oil in your car last time - just check the oil on
the dipstick. And every time you change the oil, the oil filter should be replaced as well.
For correct oil type, engine oil capacity, maintenance schedule, etc. check your car owner's
manual.

3.5Checking the engine oil

Check the engine oil regularly, I'd recommend at least once a

month or even more often if the car has high mileage.

Driving with extremely low oil level (less than min.)

or with low oil pressure warning lamp on may cause serious

engine damage

If you note, that oil pressure gauge indicates extremely low

oil pressure - have your engine inspected as soon as possible.
- While checking the oil level, look at its condition. Check
the image at the left. If the oil is black like on the right
image, I'd suggest changing it.
- Always use only appropriate engine oil type (usually you
can find it on oil cap or in the owner's manual).
- Check your parking space for leaks. If you find any, fix it
Fig. 3.3 checking the before it results in more serious vehicle problem

Engine oil

19
References:

1. http://www.freeautomechanic.com/lubrication.html [ accessed 23-03-2011]

2. http://www.ehow.com/how_6159519_stop-auto-oil-leaks [ accessed 25-03-2011]
3. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/engmain.html [ accessed 25-03-2011]
4. http://www.ehow.com/about_6462307_car-leak-oil_.html [ accessed 21-03-2011]

20
 Chapter 4
Spark-plug Diagnosis Analysis

4.1 Brief Introduction of Spark-plug:

The spark plug in your automobile,

l awn m ow er, o r ot he r gas ol i ne
c o m b u s t i b l e e n gi n e h a s o n e
funct i on, t o fi re p rope rl y und er
norm al w ear . W hen t he y qui t fi ri n g s
e v e r e e n gi n e p r o b l e m s c a n f o l l o w .
S uch as l os s i n po wer a nd k
n o c k i n g.
S p a r k p l u gs a r e a c r u c i a l p a r t o f
i gn i t i o n . W i t h o u t p r o p e r l y
f u n c t i o n i n g s p a r k p l u gs , a n e n gi n e
m a y r u n p o o r l y o r n o t a t a l l . It i s
s i m p l e t o t r o u b l e s h o o t s p a r k p l u gs ,
bas ed on vi s ual i ns pe ct i on and
analyzing any symptoms the engine
o r v e h i c l e i s e x p e r i e n c i n g. M a n y
s park pl u g p robl em s ca n be
r e m e d i e d b y r e m o v i n g t h e d a m a ge d
s park pl u g and r epl a ci n g i t wi t h a
new pl u g pu rch as ed fro m an
a u t o m o t i v e s u p p l y s t o r e . S p a r k p l u gs a r e i n e x p e n s i v e t o r e p l a c e .

Fig4.1 Typical spark-plug

21
4.1.1 Typical spark-plug components

A spark plug is made of a

material that conducts
electricity encased in a
ceramic body. Its threaded
base screws into the top of an
engine cylinder. Two
electrodes on the base of the
spark plug project into the
combustion chamber. High-
voltage current passes from the
top of the spark plug to
electrodes on its base. The
current then arcs, or jumps the
gap, between the
Electrodes, igniting fuel vapor
in the combustion chamber.

Fig: 4.1 Components of A typical spark-plug

`

22
4.2 Spark-plug problems and their troubleshooting

1) ONDITION: wet black deposits

CAUSE: excessive oil is entering your piston chamber. Likely due to worn and
leaking rings or pistons.
SOLUTION: Rebuild the engine or keep cleaning the plugs forever.

2) CONDITION: dry black fluffy deposits

CAUSE: A dirty air cleaner, bad fuel pump, fuel is too rich or high in octane
(make sure you didn't dump a bunch of aftermarket octane booster in your
tank!), excessive idling, wrong type of plug - use a hotter plug.
SOLUTION: Fix one or all of the above. The plug can be cleaned and re-used.

3) CONDITION: electrode is worn to a pointed tip.

CAUSE: normal engine wear. SOLUTION: Replace
plug.

23
 4) CONDITION: Electrode is melted away or gone completely.
CAUSE: wrong type of fuel, bad engine timing, too hot of a plug type, burnt
engine valves, engine overheated.
SOLUTION: Consult mechanic immediately. Replace plugs.

5) CONDITION: White tips and insulator with tiny black spots on it.
CAUSE: wrong type of fuel, engine overheating, low fuel pump pressure,
engine timing is off, too hot of a plug type being used.
SOLUTION: Replace plug and repair items above. Don't re-use this plug!

4.3 Visual inspection of spark-plugs and finding their

Remedies

Instruction:
1) Open the hood of the vehicle, or otherwise gain access to the engine so
that you can view the spark plugs.

2) Inspect the spark plugs for a thick black coating. This layer of carbon
occurs when the vehicle has been stopped and started repeatedly, the engine
has a dirty air filter or the air-to-fuel ratio is off. Correct by replacing the
spark plug, replacing the air filter and using the correct type of gasoline

3) Feel the spark plug to determine whether it is coated in oil, which will
look wet, slick and black. Oil on a spark plug is often associated with engine
misfiring. Check the engine for oil leaks and replace the plugs.

4) Check the plugs for an ash-like substance covering the plug. A normal
spark plug is smooth and white, gray or brown without a powder coating like
ash. The ash can be present due to additives in the fuel or oil. Do not use
additives unless they are recommended by the manufacturer. Replace the
plugs.

24
 5) Adjust the gap between the two electrodes, if necessary, using a spark
plug gapping tool. How much voltage the plug needs is directly related to
the gap size. The vehicle's service manual will show the proper size, usually
listed in thousandths of an inch and hundredths of a millimeter. Replace the
spark plugs with plugs of the correct size, referring to the manual, if
necessary.

6) Look at the electrode portion of the spark plug. If the electrode is melted
or otherwise damaged, the spark plug may have the incorrect heat range for
the engine. The engine may overheat or not work properly at high speeds.
Replace the spark plug using a plug in the heat range suggested by the
manufacturer.

7) Remove any damaged or dirty spark plug and insert a new plug, tightening
by hand. Clean the spark plug holes then use a torque wrench to tighten the
plug to the manufacturer's specifications.

4.3.1 Tips & Warnings

Over tightening or under tightening the spark plugs can damage the plugs and cause
the engine to work poorly. Always install spark plugs when the engine is cool

4.4 Signs & Symptoms of Bad Spark-Plug Wires

Bad spark plug wires can lead to a host of engine troubles.

Spark plug wires are a critical link in a vehicle's electrical system.

25
Responsible for transporting electrical power from a vehicle's battery to its engine spark
plugs, spark plug wires need to function properly to ensure normal engine operation. When
spark plugs wires fail, a host of engine problems can result.

1. Rough Engine Idle

o The most common symptom of bad spark plug wires is a rough engine idle.
Spark plug wires are responsible for transmitting the electrical current from a
vehicle's electrical system to the engine spark plugs, where the electrical
current is used to ignite the engine air/fuel mixture. Bad spark plugs wires can
inhibit the normal flow of electrical current that reaches a vehicle's spark
plugs, which can cause a rough, erratic engine idle.
2. Engine Miss

o An engine miss, which normally occurs as the result of erratic or incomplete

engine combustion, is another common symptom of bad spark plug wires.
Many times, bad spark plug wires cause the flow of electrical current to the
engine spark plugs to become erratic, alternating between brief periods of
normal flow and brief periods of abnormal, erratic flow. The result of this is
periods of erratic and incomplete engine combustion, which can manifest
itself as an engine miss.

3. Engine Hesitation
o Engine hesitation, which is normally most apparent during acceleration, is a
condition that often results from either abnormal fuel flow to an engine or
abnormal electrical conduction to a vehicle's spark plugs. Bad spark plug
wires, whether they degrade internally or develop cracks and breaks in their
outer coverings that cause electrical interference, can cause an engine to
hesitate if they disrupt the normal flow of electrical current traveling from a
car's battery to the engine spark plugs.
4. Reduced Engine Power
o Proper electrical conduction to a vehicle's spark plugs is needed to ensure
proper engine combustion and engine power. Any abnormalities in a vehicle's
electrical system, including in its spark plugs and spark plug wires, can
negatively affect spark plug firing, which will influence engine combustion
and engine power. Bad spark plug wires can result in significant engine power
loss if they inhibit or interfere with the normal flow of electricity that reaches a
vehicle's spark plugs.

26
 5. Engine Surging
A common symptom of a vehicle electrical problem is engine surging, a
condition that happens when a vehicle experiences brief spurts of adequate
electrical flow to its spark plugs, interspersed with brief periods in which
electrical flow is reduced or nonexistent.

Engine surging is a common symptom of bad spark plug wires, especially if the
wires have cracks or breaks in their outside insulation, a condition that can create
significant electrical resistance and lead to abnormal or completely stopped electrical
flow to a vehicle's spark plugs.

References:
1. http://www.ehow.com/how_7325747_troubleshoot-spark-plug.html [accessed 22-03-2011]
2. http://www.ehow.com/how_7325747_troubleshoot-spark-plug.html [accessed 15-03-2011]
3. http://www.ehow.com/how_5409517_troubleshoot-spark-plug-wire-
symptoms.html#ixzz1HLqt81 [accessed 15-03-2011]
4. Microsoft ® Encarta ® 2009. © 1993-2008 Microsoft Corporation.

27
 Chapter 5
Automotive Air Conditioning Systems and their
trouble Diagnosis

5.1 Automotive Air Conditioning Systems

Today, as we drive our automobiles, a great many of us, can enjoy the same comfort levels
that we are accustomed to at home and at work. With the push of a button or the slide of a
lever, we make the seamless transition from heating to cooling and back again without ever
wondering how this change occurs. That is, unless something goes awry.

28
Since the advent of the automotive air conditioning system in the 1940's, many things have
undergone extensive change. Improvements, such as computerized automatic temperature
control (which allow you to set the desired temperature and have the system adjust
automatically) and improvements to overall durability, have added complexity to today's
modern air conditioning system. Unfortunately, the days of "do-it-yourself" repair to these
systems, is almost a thing of the past.

To add to the complications, we now have tough environmental regulations that govern the
very simplest of tasks, such as recharging the system with refrigerant R12 commonly referred
to as Freon (Freon is the trade name for the refrigerant R-12, that was manufactured by
DuPont). Extensive scientific studies have proven the damaging effects of this refrigerant to
our ozone layer, and its manufacture has been banned by the U.S. and many other countries
that have joined together to sign the Montreal Protocol, a landmark agreement that was
introduced in the 1980's to limit the production and use of chemicals known to deplete the
ozone layer.

Now more than ever, your auto mechanic is at the mercy of this new environmental
legislation. Not only is he required to be certified to purchase refrigerant and repair your air
conditioner, his shop must also incur the cost of purchasing expensive dedicated equipment
that insures the capture of these ozone depleting chemicals, should the system be opened up
for repair. Simply put, if your mechanic has to spend more to repair your vehicle - he will
have to charge you more. Basic knowledge of your air conditioning system is important, as
this will allow you to make a more informed decision on your repair options.

Should a major problem arise from your air conditioner, you may encounter new
terminology. Words like "retrofit" and "alternative refrigerant" are now in your mechanics
glossary. You may be given an option of "retrofitting", as opposed to merely repairing and
recharging with Freon. Retrofitting involves making the necessary changes to your system,
which will allow it to use the new industry accepted, "environmentally friendly" refrigerant,
R-134a. This new refrigerant has a higher operating pressure, therefore, your system,
dependant on age, may require larger or more robust parts to counter its inherent high
pressure characteristics. This, in some cases, will add significantly to the final cost of the
repair. And if not performed properly, may reduce cooling efficiency which equates to higher
operating costs and reduced comfort.

29
Vehicles are found to have primarily
three different types of air
conditioning systems. While each of
the three types differs, the concept and
design are very similar to one another.
The most common components which
make up these automotive
systems are the following:

COMPRESSOR, CONDENSER,
EVAPORATOR, ORIFICE TUBE,
THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE
, RECEIVER-DRIER,
ACCUMULATOR. Note: if your car
has an Orifice tube, it will not
have a Thermal Expansion Valve as
these two devices serve the same
purpose. Also, you will either have
a Receiver-Dryer or an
Accumulator, but not both.

Fig.5.1 Common components of an automotive A/C

5.1.1 COMPRESSOR

Commonly referred to as the heart of the system, the compressor is a belt driven pump that is
fastened to the engine. It is responsible for compressing and transferring refrigerant gas.

The A/C system is split into two sides, a high pressure side and a low pressure side; defined
as discharge and suction. Since the compressor is basically a pump, it must have an intake
side and a discharge side. The intake, or suction side, draws in refrigerant gas from the outlet
of the evaporator. In some cases it does this via the accumulator.

Once the refrigerant is drawn into the suction side, it is compressed and sent to the
condenser, where it can then transfer the heat that is absorbed from the inside of the vehicle.

30
5.1.2 CONDENSER

This is the area in which heat dissipation occurs. The condenser, in many cases, will have
much the same appearance as the radiator in your car as the two have very similar functions.
The condenser is designed to radiate heat. Its location is usually in front of the radiator, but in
some cases, due to aerodynamic improvements to the body of a vehicle, its location may
differ. Condensers must have good air flow anytime the system is in operation. On rear wheel
drive vehicles; this is usually accomplished by taking advantage of your existing engine's
cooling fan. On front wheel drive vehicles, condenser air flow is supplemented with one or
more electric cooling fan(s).

As hot compressed gasses are introduced into the top of the condenser, they are cooled off.
As the gas cools, it condenses and exits the bottom of the condenser as a high pressure liquid.

Fig. 5.2 Air-conditioner system

5.1.3 EVAPORATOR

Located inside the vehicle, the evaporator serves as the heat absorption component. The
evaporator provides several functions. Its primary duty is to remove heat from the inside of
your vehicle.

31
 A secondary benefit is dehumidification. As warmer air travels through the aluminum fins of
the cooler evaporator coil, the moisture contained in the air condenses on its surface. Dust
and pollen passing through stick to its wet surfaces and drain off to the outside. On humid
days you may have seen this as water dripping from the bottom of your vehicle. Rest assured
this is perfectly normal.

The ideal temperature of the evaporator is 32 degree Fahrenheit or 0 degree Celsius.

Refrigerant enters the bottom of the evaporator as a low pressure liquid. The warm air
passing through the evaporator fins causes the refrigerant to boil (refrigerants have very low
boiling points). As the refrigerant begins to boil, it can absorb large amounts of heat. This
heat is then carried off with the refrigerant to the outside of the vehicle. Several other
components work in conjunction with the evaporator. As mentioned above, the ideal
temperature for an evaporator coil is 32 degree F. Temperature and pressure regulating
devices must be used to control its temperature. While there are many variations of devices
used, their main functions are the same; keeping pressure in the evaporator low and keeping
the evaporator from freezing; a frozen evaporator coil will not absorb as much heat.

5.1.4 PRESSURE REGULATING DEVICES

Controlling the evaporator temperature can be accomplished by controlling refrigerant

pressure and flow into the evaporator. Many variations of pressure regulators have been
introduced since the 1940's.

5.1.5 ORIFICE TUBE

The orifice tube, probably the most commonly used, can be found in most GM and Ford
models. It is located in the inlet tube of the evaporator, or in the liquid line, somewhere
between the outlet of the condenser and the inlet of the evaporator. This point can be found in
a properly functioning system by locating the area between the outlet of the condenser and
the inlet of the evaporator that suddenly makes the change from hot to cold. You should then
see small dimples placed in the line that keep the orifice tube from moving. Most of the
orifice tubes in use today measure approximately three inches in length and consist of a small
brass tube, surrounded by plastic, and covered with a filter screen at each end. It is not
uncommon for these tubes to become clogged with small debris. While inexpensive, usually
between three to five dollars, the labor to replace one involves recovering the refrigerant,
opening the system up, replacing the orifice tube, evacuating and then recharging. With this
in mind, it might make sense to install a larger pre filter in front of the orifice tube to
minimize the risk of this problem reoccurring. Some Ford models have a permanently affixed

32
orifice tube in the liquid line. These can be cut out and replaced with a combination
filter/orifice assembly.

5.1.6 THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE

Another common refrigerant regulator is the thermal expansion valve, or TXV. Commonly
used on import and aftermarket systems. This type of valve can sense both temperature and
pressure, and is very efficient at regulating refrigerant flow to the evaporator. Several
variations of this valve are commonly found. Another example of a thermal expansion valve
is Chrysler's "H block" type. This type of valve is usually located at the firewall, between the
evaporator inlet and outlet tubes and the liquid and suction lines. These types of valves,
although efficient, have some disadvantages over orifice tube systems. Like orifice tubes
these valves can become clogged with debris, but also have small moving parts that may
stick and malfunction due to corrosion.

5.1.7RECEIVER-DRIER

The receiver-drier is used on the high side of systems that use a thermal expansion valve.
This type of metering valve requires liquid refrigerant. To ensure that the valve gets liquid
refrigerant, a receiver is used. The primary function of the receiver-drier is to separate gas
and liquid. The secondary purpose is to remove moisture and filter out dirt. The receiver-
drier usually has a sight glass in the top. This sight glass is often used to charge the system.
Under normal operating conditions, vapor bubbles should not be visible in the sight glass.
The use of the sight glass to charge the system is not recommended in R-134a systems as
cloudiness and oil that has separated from the refrigerant can be mistaken for bubbles. This
type of mistake can lead to a dangerous overcharged condition. There are variations of
receiver-driers and several different desiccant materials are in use. Some of the moisture
removing desiccants found within are not compatible with R-134a. The desiccant type is
usually identified on a sticker that is affixed to the receiver-drier. Newer receiver-driers use
desiccant type XH-7 and are compatible with both R-12 and R-134a refrigerants.

5.1.8 ACCUMULATOR

Accumulators are used on systems that accommodate an orifice tube to meter refrigerants
into the evaporator. It is connected directly to the evaporator outlet and stores excess liquid
refrigerant. Introduction of liquid refrigerant into a compressor can do serious damage.

33
Compressors are designed to compress gas not liquid. The chief role of the accumulator is to
isolate the compressor from any damaging liquid refrigerant. Accumulators, like receiver-
driers, also remove debris and moisture from a system. It is a good idea to replace the
accumulator each time the system is opened up for major repair and anytime moisture and/or
debris is of concern. Moisture is enemy number one for your A/C system. Moisture in a
system mixes with refrigerant and forms a corrosive acid. When in doubt, it may be to your
advantage to change the Accumulator or receiver in your system. While this may be a
temporary discomfort for your wallet, it is of long term benefit to your air conditioning
system.

5.2 A/C cooling problem:

The most likely cause of an automotive air conditioner cooling problem is no refrigerant in
the system. If the refrigerant has escaped past a leaky compressor, leaked out of a pinhole in
the evaporator or condenser, the leak needs to be identified and repaired before the system is
recharged.

Fig. 5.3 Parts of Air-conditioner, showing where to check for the leaks

On many systems, the compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant is low because the "low
pressure safety switch" prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if system pressure is
low. This protects the compressor from possible damage caused by a lack of lubrication.

The next thing you should check when troubleshooting a no cooling problem is system
pressure. For this, you need a set of A/C service gauges. Attach your service gauges to the

34
high and low service fittings. If both the high and low side pressure gauges read low, the
system is low and needs recharging. But before any refrigerant is added, check for leaks to
find out where the refrigerant is going

5.3 AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: REFRIGERANT LEAKS

All vehicles leak some refrigerant past seals and through microscopic pores in hoses. The
older the vehicle, the higher the rate of seepage. Newer vehicles have better seals and barrier
style hoses so typically leak less than a few tenths of an ounce of refrigerant a year. But
system capacities also tend to be smaller on newer vehicles, so any loss of refrigerant will
have more of an adverse effect on cooling performance.

Various methods can be used to check for leaks. The telltale oil stains and wet spots that
indicate leaks on older R-12 systems are less apparent on the newer R-134a systems because
PAG lubricants are not as "oily" as mineral oil. This makes it harder to see leaks.

Leaks can be found by adding special dye to the system (available in pressurized cans
premixed with refrigerant), an electronic leak detector, or plain old soapy water (spray on
hose connections and watch for bubbles -- requires adding some refrigerant to system first
and turning the A/C on). Once you've found a leak, repairs should be made prior to fully
recharging the system. Most leak repairs involve replacing O-rings, seals or hoses. But if the
evaporator or condenser are leaking, repairs can be expensive

Fig. 5.4 A/C Diagnosis chart; indicating the problems and their possible causes

35
5.4 POOR COOLING PERFORMANCE
Diagnosing an A/C cooling problem is best done by connecting a gauge set to the high and
low pressure service fitting on the system. Though poor cooling is often due to a low charge
of refrigerant, it can also be caused by many other factors (see chart above).

How to tell if your A/C system needs refrigerant: look at the LOW pressure gauge reading
when the engine is OFF. On an 80 degree day, the LOW gauge should read about 56 psi or
higher if the A/C system contains an adequate charge of refrigerant. On a 90 degree day, the
LOW side reading should be about 70 psi or higher. If the LOW gauge reading is less than
this, the A/C system probably needs some additional refrigerant.

Refer to the vehicle manufacturer specifications for normal system operating pressures, and
the total refrigerant capacity of the system. Most newer passenger car A/C systems do not
hold much refrigerant (14 to 28 oz.), so you don't want to add too much if the system is low.

5.5 INTERMITTENT COOLING

An A/C system that blows cold air for awhile then warm air is probably freezing up. This can
be caused by air and moisture in the system that allows ice to form and block the orifice tube.

Evacuating the system with a vacuum pump will purge it of unwanted air and moisture.
Evacuation should be done with a vacuum pump that is capable of achieving and holding a
high vacuum (29 inches) for at least 30 to 45 minutes.

For best performance, an A/C system should contain less than 2% air by weight. For every
1% increase in the amount of air that displaces refrigerant in the system, there will be a
corresponding drop of about one degree in cooling performance. More than 6% air can cause a
very noticeable drop in cooling performance, and possibly cause evaporator freeze-up.

References: 1. www.AA1Car.com Auto Diagnosis & Repair Help

2. www.familycar.com

36
 Chapter 6
Timing Belt troubleshooting
6.1 Introduction:

Timing belt is a toothed belt that connects the

engine crankshaft to the camshaft or camshafts
as you can see in the picture.
The timing belt needed to synchronize the
camshaft to the crankshaft position, so the
valves will open and close at the proper time in
the relation to the position of the pistons. The
camshaft rotates at exactly 1/2 speed of the
crankshaft; meaning two revolutions of the
crankshaft are equal to one revolution of the
camshaft.
Fig.6.1 Typical 4-cylinder DOHC twin-cam Not all cars have a timing belt. Some of them
engine use a chain or gears instead.
Mostly, you can find the timing belt in small
and medium size domestic and import
passenger cars. For example, 1993 - 1997
Toyota Corolla, 1998 - 2001 Honda Accord,
and 1997 - 2001 Honda CR-V, 2001 - 2004
Volkswagen Passat - they all have a timing
belt.

Fig.6.2 Timing belt in good condition,

Toyota Corolla 1993 - 1997

37
 The timing belt must be replaced at a specified
by the manufacturer interval. This interval may
vary from 60,000 miles to 105,000 miles (from
96,000 km to 168,000 km). In addition, the
timing belt must be replaced if it has any
damage like cracks (see the picture below),
cuts or excessive wear. If not replaced in time,
it may break possibly causing serious engine
damage. When a timing belt breaks, the
camshaft stops turning leaving some of the
valves in the open position. The crankshaft,
because it's heavier, continues to rotate by
inertia. In an interference engine, this will
cause the pistons to strike the valves that left
open. This may result in broken or bent valves,
Fig. 6.3 Cracked timing belt damaged pistons, and possibly, destroyed
cylinder head.
The damage will be less extensive in a non-
interference engine but in either case, the
engine will stall, leaving you stranded.

6.2 Timing belt Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting vehicle belt problems can prevent expensive repairs.

The belts on a vehicle are important, as they go around the pulley, which is attached to the
flywheel and controls other components. Belts power important vehicle parts, including
alternators, water pumps, air conditioner compressors and power steering pumps.

38
Some vehicles have one belt that controls all of the components, while others may have more
than one. It is important to know the types of belts on your vehicle and how to troubleshoot.

6.3 Instructions
1. Listen for unusual sounds coming from the engine, such as squealing
or screeching. This indicates the belt is slipping off the pulley. The belt
will need to be replaced as soon as possible.

2. Visually inspect the belts for cracking or fraying. The best way to do this is to
use a mirror and flashlight. If there are cracks that measure more than 1", the belt
should be changed immediately to prevent breakage.

3. Check the belt to ensure it is not soaked by leaking engine oil. Engine oil
leaks can rapidly damage vehicle belts. Fix worn seals or gaskets before
replacing the old belt.

4. Look for excess smoke coming from the exhaust. It could be a sign that the
timing belt is ready to be replaced. When the timing belt is worn, the engine
comes under extra pressure while operating.

6.4 Failure:
Timing belts must be replaced at the manufacturer's recommended distance and/or time
periods. Failure to replace the belt can result in complete breakdown or catastrophic engine
failure. The owner's manual maintenance schedule is the source of timing belt replacement
intervals, typically every 60,000 to 90,000 miles (approx 96,000 to 144,000 kilometers). It is
common to replace the timing belt tensioner at the same time as the belt is replaced.

The usual failure modes of timing belts are either stripped teeth (which leave a smooth
section of belt where the drive cog will slip) or delamination and unraveling of the fiber
cores. Breakage of the belt, because of the nature of the high tensile fibers, is uncommon.
Correct belt tension is critical - too loose and the belt will whip, too tight and it will whine
and put excess strain on the bearings of the cogs. In either case belt life will be drastically
shortened. Aside from the belt itself, also common is a failure of the tensioner, and/or the
various gear and idler bearings, causing the belt to derail.

39
References:

1. http://www.samarins.com/glossary/timing_belt.html [ accessed 27-03-2011]

2. http://www.ehow.com/how_7271057_troubleshooting-vehicle-belt-problems.html
[Accessed 29-03-2011]
3. http://www.ehow.com/how_7271057_troubleshooting-vehicle-belt-problems.html
[Accessed 29-03-2011]

40
 Chapter 7
Braking System and its troubleshooting

Fig.7.1 a typical brake system

7.1 Braking System

Brake is a device that slows or stops a moving object. Most brakes have a part called a brake
pad or brake shoe that presses against a turning wheel--or a unit connected to the wheel--to
produce friction. This friction converts the wheel's energy of motion to heat, slowing or
stopping the wheel. Vehicles and industrial machines use a wide variety of brakes.

7.2 Vehicles are equipped with three major kinds of brakes:

(1) mechanical brakes,
(2) hydraulic brakes, and
(3) air brakes.

7.2.1 MECHANICAL BRAKES

Mechanical brakes have levers or cables that force one or two pads against the wheel. Most
bicycles have two mechanical brakes called caliper brakes, one for each wheel. Each brake
has two small rubber pads, one on each side of the wheel rim. The pads are mounted on a
mechanical device that is connected to one end of a long cable. The other end of the cable is
connected to a lever on the handlebar. When the rider squeezes this lever, force on the cable
presses the pads against the wheel rim.

41
 Fig.7.2 Arrangement of typical Mechanical brakes

Cars are equipped with another kind of mechanical brake called an emergency brake or hand
brake. This brake is also known as a parking brake because it helps prevent a parked car from
rolling away. When the driver applies the hand brake, a system of levers, rods, and cables
applies pressure to the pads or shoes of the rear wheels.

7.2.2 HYDRAULIC BRAKES

Hydraulic brakes use a special liquid called brake fluid to apply brake pressure to pads or
shoes. Most cars have a hydraulic braking system. The main parts of this system are a
chamber called a master cylinder, which is located near the brake
pedal; at least one wheel cylinder at each wheel; and tubes called brake pipes, which connect
the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. The cylinders and brake pipes are filled with
brake fluid.

42
 Fig.7.3 Hydraulic Brakes

Inside the master cylinder is a piston, which can slide back and forth. In a simple hydraulic
system, the brake pedal controls this piston by means of a rod or some other mechanical link.
When the driver pushes on the pedal, the piston inside the master cylinder exerts pressure on
the fluid and slides forward a short distance. The fluid transmits this pressure through the
brake pipes, forcing pistons in the wheel cylinders to move forward. As the wheel cylinders
move forward, they apply brake pressure to pads or shoes.

The wheel cylinders are mounted in either disc brakes or drum brakes. Most cars have disc
brakes on the front wheels and drum brakes on the rear wheels.

7.2.3 DISC BRAKES

Disc brakes have a disc, which is usually made of cast iron, attached to the vehicle's axle.
The wheel is attached to the disc. A U-shaped caliper assembly fits around a part of the disc
but does not rotate with the disc. This assembly includes one or two wheel cylinders, each
containing a piston and two brake pads--one on each side of the disc. The pads are flat pieces
of metal lined with a heat-resistant material. When the brake is applied, the pads press inward
against the disc.

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 Fig.7.4 Disk brake system

7.2.4 DRUM BRAKES

Fig.7.5 Typical drum brake

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Drum brakes have a drum, usually cast iron, fastened to the axle. The wheel is attached to the
drum. Inside the drum are two semicircular brake shoes that are lined with a heat-resistant
material. The shoes do not rotate with the drum. Between the shoes is a wheel cylinder. This
cylinder has two pistons, which push in opposite directions--one against each shoe. When the
brake is applied, the shoes press outward against the drum.

7.2.5 POWER-ASSISTED BRAKES

Power-assisted brakes provide additional brake pressure in most cars. A device called a
booster is mounted between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. When the driver steps
on the pedal, the booster uses the difference in pressure between the vacuum in the engine
and the surrounding atmosphere to apply additional pressure to the piston in the master
cylinder.

7.2.6 ANTILOCK-BRAKE SYSTEMS

Antilock-brake systems are installed in some cars to prevent wheels from locking and
skidding on wet or icy roads. One type of antilock-brake system (ABS) includes a sensor at
each wheel and a tiny computer called an electronic controller. A device known as a
pressure-modulating valve assembly is mounted between the master cylinder and the wheel
cylinders. Electric wires connect the sensors to the controller and the controller to the valve
assembly.

The sensors send electric signals that represent wheel speed to the electronic controller.
When a sensor indicates that a wheel is locking, the controller transmits a signal to the valve
assembly. The assembly, in turn, applies pulses of brake pressure to the brake of the locked
wheel. This pressure alternately applies and releases the brake. Pulsing continues until the
wheel rotates normally.

Traction control, available in some cars with antilock brakes, prevents wheels from slipping.
When a sensor indicates slippage, the electronic controller applies brake pressure to the
slipping wheel. If more than one wheel is slipping, the controller reduces engine power until
the wheels stop slipping.

7.2.7 AIR BRAKES

Air brakes use compressed air supplied by a machine called a compressor. Most buses, heavy
trucks, and trains have air brakes. When the driver or engineer applies the brakes, a storage
unit releases compressed air. The air pushes against a piston or diaphragm, which applies
brake pressure to pads or shoes. Buses and trucks have disc and drum brakes like those in
cars. In trains, however, shoes press against the outside of the wheel.

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 7.3 Trouble shooting
car's brake system

Maintaining a well-functioning brake system reduces your risk of having a stopping-related

car accident. Due to normal wear and tear, brake problems occur

Your brakes are probably the most important part of your car. Without an intake system,
you'll just sit there. But at least you won't hit a tree while you're just sitting there! Seriously,
brakes aren't something to play around with. If your car is having a braking problem, whether
it's weak brakes, a mushy pedal, grinding sounds - whatever your brake problem is, you need
to troubleshoot and repair it as soon as possible. We'll help you diagnose your braking
problem so you know what repairs to make

If your car is having a braking problem, whether it's weak brakes, a mushy pedal, grinding
sounds - whatever your brake problem is, you need to troubleshoot and repair it as soon as
possible. The following are some of the troubles and their diagnosis of brakes.

7.3.1 Brake Pedal Goes Too Far Down to Stop.

If you step on the brake pedal and it feels like it's going too far down before you start to slow,
you might have the following problems:

Low Brake Fluid Level:

Check your brake fluid. If it's low, top it off to the mark on the side of the reservoir.
Contaminated Brake Fluid:

Even though your brakes operate in a closed system, contaminants can still work their
way into the works. Air can enter the system through the smallest hole, and you can
end up with water in the system from condensation and other means. There's not
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 really any way to check for this, but bleeding your brakes will remove the bad stuff
and replace it with new fluid.
Worn Brake Pads:

Your brakes should never wear low enough to cause your brake pedal to feel low,
they'll scream at you before then. But if they do get very low, you might have this
problem. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Of course, this can be avoided
with regular brake inspection.
Bad Brake Power Boost Unit

Finally, if your brake booster goes badly you'll have low brake pedal issues. Most
brake boosters are vacuum controlled, so a special vacuum measurement device that
connects to the brake booster is needed to check it. If it's bad, you'll have to replace
the boost unit.

7.3.2 Brake Pedal Too Firm.

If you step on the brake pedal and all of a sudden it feels like you're doing leg presses at the
gym with a new personal trainer, your brake pedal may be too firm. This symptom points to a
few potential problems, all of which need to be fixed as soon as possible.

Vacuum Problems:
Your brakes are easier to press because of a brake booster that gives your foot the
strength of 10 men. This booster uses vacuum to help you activate the brakes.
If there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, it won't have enough negative
pressure to do its job. Check the vacuum system for leaks. If you find none, your
brake booster is probably bad and will need to be replaced. This can be tested by a
shop if you want to be sure.
Brake Line Obstruction:
It's possible for something to block brake fluid from reaching a portion of the system.
This could be something in the line like a chunk of rust, or it could be a pinched brake
line. Visually inspect the brake lines and replace damaged brake lines as needed.

7.3.3 Brake Pedal Goes To Floor.

If you step on the brake pedal and it has little to no pressure and goes all the way to the
floor, especially if you're getting no braking:

Low Brake Fluid Level:

Check your brake fluid. If it's low, top it off to the mark on the side of the reservoir.
Air in the Brake Fluid:
Even though your brakes operate in a closed system, contaminants can still work
their way into the works. Air can enter the system through the smallest hole. There's

47
 not really any way to check for this, but bleeding your brakes will remove the air and
replace it with new fluid.
Master Cylinder Bad:
A bad master cylinder will cause your brakes to have no pressure. Master cylinders
cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced.

7.3.4 Weak or Spongy Brakes.

Sometimes your brakes will still work, but they seem to have grown weak. It takes longer to
stop, or you get less braking power when you apply the brakes suddenly. The pedal may also
feel more squishy than usual.

Low Brake Fluid Level:

Check your brake fluid. If it's low, top it off to the mark on the side of the reservoir.
Contaminated Brake Fluid:
Even though your brakes operate in a closed system, contaminants can still work their
way into the works. Air can enter the system through the smallest hole, and you can
end up with water in the system from condensation and other means. There's not
really any way to check for this, but bleeding your brakes will remove the bad stuff
and replace it with new fluid.
Worn Brake Pads:
Your brakes should never wear low enough to cause your brake pedal to feel low,
they'll scream at you before then. But if they do get very low, you might have this
problem. Replace your brake pads as soon as possible. Of course, this can be avoided
with regular brake inspection.

7.3.5 Brakes Grabbing or Pulling.

Your brakes should apply themselves smoothly and evenly when you push the pedal. If they
seem to suddenly grab, or if they are pulling the car to one side, you may have one of these
problems:

Worn or Bad Brake Pads:

If your brakes are much worn, or if they have become contaminated or are otherwise
bad, you'll need to replace your brake pads.
Bad Brake Disc:
Inspect your brake discs. If one or both are bad, they can cause your brakes to grab
suddenly or unevenly. You'll need to replace your brake discs. They should always be
done in pairs, so don't try to skimp.

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7.3.6 Pedal Vibration.

If you step on the pedal and feel a vibration, you're in for some troubleshooting. There are
lots of things which can cause the pedal to vibrate when you apply the brakes.

Remember, if your car is equipped with ABS (most are these days), the pedal will seem to
vibrate when you brake very, very hard. The system does this to keep them from locking up.
This is normal. Otherwise, check these causes:

Bad Brake Pads:

If your pads have become contaminated with oil or another substance, they can
vibrate as they grip the brake rotor. You'll need to replace your brake pads.
Bad Brake Disc:
Inspect your brake discs. If one or both are bad, they can cause your brakes to grab
suddenly or unevenly. You'll need to replace your brake discs. They should always be
done in pairs, so don't try to skimp.
Car Out of Alignment:
If your car is out of alignment, this can cause your front end to wiggle madly,
causing a vibration. Get an alignment.
Worn Front Suspension:
Any number of worn suspension parts can cause vibrations. Worn ball joints, a bad
steering rack, worn tie rod ends, a bad wheel bearing or upper strut bearing, and even a
bad front strut could cause it. Start checking.

References:
1. http://www.auto-repair-car-repair.com/index.htm [accessed 19-03-2011]
2. http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/ts_brakes.htm [accessed 12-03-2011]
3. Microsoft ® Encarta ® 2009. © 1993-2008 Microsoft Corporation.

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 Chapter 8
Shock Absorbers

8.1 Shock Absorber

• Unless a dampening structure is present, a car spring will extend and release the
energy it absorbs from a bump at an uncontrolled rate. The spring will continue to
bounce at its natural frequency until all of the energy originally put into it is used up.
A suspension built on springs alone would make for an extremely bouncy ride and,
depending on the terrain, an uncontrollable car.
• Shock absorber or snubber: Device that controls unwanted spring motion through a
process known as dampening.

50
• Shock absorbers slow down and reduce the magnitude of vibratory motions by
turning the kinetic energy of suspension movement into heat energy that can be
dissipated through hydraulic fluid.

8.2 Kinds of Absorbing Techniques

Shock absorbers are either gas fill or spring operated.

8.2.1Spring-Operated Shocks
The spring-operated shock absorber is equipped with a large spring. When
the car hits a bump, the shock absorber lessens the feeling of the bump by
compressing the spring until the bump is hardly felt.

8.2.2 Gas-Operated Shocks

Gas-operated shocks work very similar to the spring-operated type. When the vehicle hits
a bump in the road, the gas inside the shock absorber compresses.
The driver feels much less of the road impact using these types of shock absorbers.

8.3 Heavy-Duty Shocks

With vehicles that are designed for off-road driving and monster truck racing,
the type of shock absorbers is critical. Most use gas shocks that are much
larger than car shocks. Due to the terrain that these vehicles operate on, good, fully
functioning shocks are crucial.

8.4 Construction and working principle of a shock absorber

• A shock absorber is basically an oil pump placed between the frame of the car and
the wheels. The upper mount of the shock connects to the frame (i.e., the sprung
weight), while the lower mount connects to the axle, near the wheel (i.e., the
unsprung weight). In a twin-tube design, one of the most common types of shock
absorbers, the upper mount is connected to a piston rod, which in turn is connected to
a piston, which in turn sits in a tube filled with hydraulic fluid. The inner tube is
known as the pressure tube, and the outer tube is known as the reserve tube. The
reserve tube stores excess hydraulic fluid.
• When the car wheel encounters a bump in the road and causes the spring to coil and
uncoil, the energy of the spring is transferred to the shock absorber through the upper
mount, down through the piston rod and into the piston.
• Orifices perforate the piston and allow fluid to leak through as the piston moves up
and down in the pressure tube. Because the orifices are relatively tiny, only a small.

51
 amount of fluid, under great pressure, passes through. This slows down the piston,
which in turn slows down the spring.

Fig.8.1 Construction and working principle of a typical shock absorber

• Shock absorbers work in two cycles -- the compression cycle and the extension
cycle. The compression cycle occurs as the piston moves downward, compressing the
hydraulic fluid in the chamber below the piston. The extension cycle occurs as the
piston moves toward the top of the pressure tube, compressing the fluid in the
chamber above the piston. A typical car or light truck will have more resistance
during its extension cycle than its compression cycle. With that in mind, the
compression cycle controls the motion of the vehicle's unsprung weight, while
extension controls the heavier, sprung weight.

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8.5 Problems that may occur in a suspension system and shock absorber

1. Suspension topping or bottoming out

The possible causes and their remedies could be:

Defective spring or shock absorber; replace it

Rubber bumper missing; replace it

Vehicle heavy loaded; install heavy-duty shock absorber

2. Spring breakage Fig.8.2 components of shock absorber that faces problems

The possible causes and their remedies could be:

Overloading; avoid that

Leaf spring with loose centre; tighten

Tight spring shackle ; loosen, replace

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 3. Improper Suspension height

The possible causes and their remedies could be:

Broken leaf spring; replace

Spring weak ; replace

Defective shock absorber; replace

4. Noise and Vibration

 Loose, worn or unlubricated spring or suspension part ; lubricate ,tighten or

repair

 Tight or dry shock absorber mounting bushings ; lubricate, install

properly

5. Knocking When You Cross Bumps

When faced with this problem you would feel knocking or clunking when you go
over the bumps.

Possible Causes: Most often this problem crops up when either the shock or the struts
have worn out. Another cause is a worn out ball joint.
Solutions: After you assess the damage, replacement of shocks, strut bearings and ball joints
are perhaps the best cure.

Fig. 8.3 typical Coil Spring Rear Suspension

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7. The Car Bounces After You Cross A Bump
You experience that the car keeps bouncing even after you have crossed a bump.

Possible Causes: If you experience such a situation the shock of your automobile might
have worn out or the leaf spring might have slipped or badly damaged.
Solutions: The shocks if they were worn would need to be replaced and so would the
broken leaf spring. If the leaf spring has just slipped then a simple repair would work.

References:
1. www.automotive-online.com/suspension-steering/shock-absorbers.html
[Accessed 22-02-2011]
2. http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4567119_shock-absorbers-work.html
[Accessed 30-03-2011]
3. Microsoft ® Encarta ® 2009. © 1993-2008 Microsoft Corporation.

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 Conclusions
Through developing this project we got a clear idea of the common problems
usually occurring in an automobile and how to rectify them, which will further help us to
compare it practically in our future lives.

For each problem that usually occurs, we have given a probable solution.
Particularly regarding to the lubricant leakage or lubrication system problem, it has to be kept
in mind that the oil or the lubricant should have a proper viscosity index based on the climate
or the country that you are driving the vehicle. It is highly preferred to use multiple viscosity
index for the cars running in a country that climate changes too much or it varies too much
from north to south and etc. Improper viscosity index oil can severely damage your vehicle's
moving parts.

Lastly, the life of a vehicle mainly depends on how you drive and maintain it. For
this reason as soon as you get any problem in your vehicle, it has to be checked and rectified
and the procedures we have recommended, if followed, will surely give a long life to your
vehicle

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