Draping

INSD,Deccan
Day 1
History
• Draping is the process of transforming a
clothing design into a three-dimensional form.
The art of draping dates back to 3500 BC,
beginning with the Mesopotamians and
Ancient Egyptians.
• Greek fashion followed with the invention of
draped silhouettes like the chiton, peplos,
chlamys and himation. The Etruscans and
Ancient Romans invented the toga, a length of
fabric that wraps and drapes around the body.
• Throughout the ages, clothing was
categorized as either “fitted” or “draped.” A
“fitted” garment would be sewn together and
worn close to body, in contrast to a “draped”
garment, such as a toga that doesn’t require
sewing.
• In today’s fashion world, both fitted and
draped garments can be patterned using the
draping process.
History

• Draping has been the

hallmark of several famous
designers beginning
with Madame Grès, known
as the “Queen of the Drape”.
• Her expertly draped and
executed collection of
Grecian-inspired silk jersey
dresses consumed over 70
yards of silk jersey each.
History

• French-born, American
designer Pauline Trigère, was
also known for draping their
designs directly on live models
instead of dress forms.
History

• Madeleine Vionnet, in
contrast, chose to initially test
her designs on a miniature
mannequin instead of on a full
size form.
• Vionnet’s claim to fame is her
mastery of the “bias cut,”
which resulted in the most
sensual designs that are still a
source of inspiration to
designers to this day.
What is Draping?

• Draping is a technique used to

make a 3-dimensional dress
pattern with the aid of a dress
form figure by pinning and
placing fabric against the form
to create a garment.
• Typically designers use muslin,
which is cost-efficient and
offered in a variety of weights.
Why Is Draping Useful ?
• Designers love the art of draping
because their designs come to life as
they manipulate the fabric on the dress
form.
• Even though a designer may start out
with a design sketch, during the draping
process a new and more interesting
design usually takes shape. This is why
draping is considered the more creative
method of pattern making.
• Unlike the 2-dimensional pattern making
process, draping allows the designer to
get a “feel” for the fabric as the fabric is
draped on the form.
• Draping enables the designer to make
better choices when considering the
suitability of a particular fabric to its
design.
Why is Draping Useful?

• Draping is used to achieve the

desired pattern through the
first-hand manipulation of
fabric, providing the
opportunity to sculpt and
create one-of-a-kind designs,
which is why draping is a
technique used primarily when
making couture and high-end
pieces.
Draped pattern making
• Draped pattern making is the link
between designs and production of a
specified garment. At first fashion
designers sketch the design and that
turns into a three-dimensional functional
garment.
• Draping process is a way of interpreting
the design regardless of the style, size
and shape. The fabric is manipulated,
moulded, and shaped through the skilful
use of the draper/designer's hand, until
the design is replicated in three-
dimensional form.
• In the fashion industry, patterning paper
is often used to create the flat pattern.
Most of the professional theatrical
costume shops and educational institutes
use brown craft paper instead because it
is much less expensive and easier to find.
Types of Drapes

• Draping can be a tricky part of

designing a garment but when
appropriately applied it can
bring out the best.
• There are numerous ways of
achieving drapes in a garment.
Some of the best examples of
drapes are gathers, pleats,
tucks and ruching.
• Learning how to create
different drapes can add
immense beauty and style to a
finished outfit.
Gathers Pleats

Pintucks Ruching
Required tools

• Dress form
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Ruler
• French curve
• Hip curve
• L-Square
• Dress maker’s pins/Pearl pins
• Tracing wheel
• Tracing paper
• Pencils
• Style tape/Ribbon
• Fabric marking pen/fabric chalk
• Pinking shears
• Needle
• Clipper
• Timble
• Pressing tools
Prep Your Dress Form

• Mark all major points and

seams to create guidelines for
your garment
• Mimicking your desired design
and other seams using the
bias tape will provide a guide
line in bringing your garment
to life.
Prep Your Dress Form

• Apply style tape to the fullest

point of the bust, starting at
the center front to the side
seam.
• Repeat with the smallest part
of the waist and widest hip
point.
Prep Your Dress Form

• Along the backside, style

tape should be placed
horizontally at shoulder
blade level reaching from CB
to the armhole ridge.
Measure Your Dress
Form

• Front Measurements
• Back Measurements
Prep Your mock fabric
• Grab your mock fabric that mimics the
weight of the fabric you want to work
with.
• Iron your fabric to make handling and
marking easy and accurate.
• Notch your fabric block using your
measuring tape and ruler and tear along
the grain for perfectly squared off block.
• Mark grain line and other important
points of reference.
• Grains should each form right angles
creating the block shape
• Turn your fabric to its backside or wrong
side and iron the lengthwise grain
• If using muslin keep in mind that there
are different weights of muslin. Choose
muslin that is similar to the weight of
your final project.
Draping Terms to Know

Mannequin marking terms

• SH-shoulder line
• NB-neck band
• Armhole/Armscye
• PL-princess line
• Apex/BP-bust point
• BL-bust line
• CF-center front
• SS-side seam
• WL-waistline
• HBL-Horizontal balance line
 Draping Terms to Know

Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the
cross grain for the front bodice

Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment

Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment

Seam: two or more edges of fabric held together by stitches

Bias: A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric to showcasing maximum
stretch

Cross grain: section of fabric that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain that
runs from selvage to selvage

Dart: a design feature that aids in fitting garments around and to curves
Preparation of draping
for Muslin fabric • The fabric you choose to drape with
should be woven, not knit, and of
similar weight and drape as the actual
fabric that you will be using to build the
costume.
• Most drapers use 100 percent cotton
muslin which is why a fitting mock-up is
often referred to as a “muslin”.
• In the traditional garment industry.
Muslin is the standard used for “toiles”
or fitting prototypes.
• Muslin comes in a variety of weights,
and inexpensive synthetic fabrics can
also be used in fitting and draping for
apparel design.
• There are four different types
of muslin are used for draping -
Standard muslin, Cotton twill, Cotton
voile, Silk/hemp muslin

• A coarse weave of medium weight is

used by beginners because the grain is
easily recognized.
• A light weight finely woven fabric used
for soft draping.
• A heavy weight firmly woven fabric
used for draping tailored garments.
Draping

• Mainly Draping can be

approached in 2 ways. They
are:

• Planned way of draping – based

on reference image / sketch

• Spontaneous draping - driven

by the weight and fall of the
fabric
Importance of Draping

• Draping adds an element of

interest to any garment.
• Every designer must know the
art of draping a garment to
bring out the best design.
• If you want to highlight a
particular area of a garment,
then you can add pleats,
gathers or tucks.
• With draping, you can
effortlessly transform a simple
garment into an elegant one.
Importance of Draping
• In the fashion industry - high
fashion, haute couture fashion
houses, evening and lingerie
companies most garments are
created through draping.
• When draping a garment, the
designer can immediately see
what her apparel design will look
like on the body, and immediately
correct any fit or design problems
before putting anything down on
paper.
• In addition, some apparel designs
are just impossible to make via
flat pattern making and need to
be draped first.
• Some fabrics need to be
experimented with on a dress
form to see how they behave.
• Every fashion designer should
have the knowledge about
draping.
• It also helps to developing your
artistic and manual skills.
Importance of draping
in Fashion Designing
Some necessities of fashion
draping are:
• It helps to be able to combine
new up-to-date looks
• To understand the human
body proportions also get the
required shape and fit of the
garments.
• To understand about various
fabric grains and its advantages
• To introduce the basic
vocabulary of the fashion
• To improve manual skills.
• To improve concentration &
precision
• To develop your design
creativity
• It makes it possible to process
various types of fabric and
giving them form and harmony
Conclusion
Day 2

Draping Terminology
Guidelines On Fabric and A Dress Form

• Guidelines are directional lines

and markings that indicate the
grain, cross grain, centre front,
centre back, shoulder, bust
level, apex, hip level and side
seam
Draping Terms to Know

Mannequin marking terms

• SH-shoulder line
• NB-neck band
• Armhole/Armscye
• PL-princess line
• Apex/BP-bust point
• BL-bust line
• CF-center front
• SS-side seam
• WL-waistline
• HBL-Horizontal balance line
 Draping Terms to Know

Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the
cross grain for the front bodice

Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment

Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment

Seam: two or more edges of fabric held together by stitches

Bias: A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric to showcasing maximum
stretch

Cross grain: section of fabric that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain that
runs from selvage to selvage

Dart: a design feature that aids in fitting garments around and to curves
Cutting

• The preparation of a
determined length or
width of muslin or fabric to
drape a garment section
Pinning

• The process of anchoring the

fabric to a dress form on
structural, guide lines and
grain line

• The process of securing fabric

while developing the pattern
shape
Slashing

• The clipping of muslin or

fabric towards the pinned
perimeter of the area being
draped to relieve fabric
tension and facilitate
subsequent draping
procedure
Marking

• The recording on the dress

form of the perimeter,
intersecting lines and
pattern details in
preparation for sewing or
tracing on paper
Tearing

• Estimate the size of muslin

needed, allowing a
reasonable amount of extra
fabric for ease, seam
allowances, and styling.

• Clip the edge of the muslin

with scissors and tear across
the grain with sufficient
pressure to break the yarns
evenly.
Blocking

• Before draping, muslin may

have to be re-shaped so that
yarns of the crosswise and
lengthwise grains are at
perfect right angels to each
other.

• To re-shaped muslin, pull the

edges diagonally until the
fabric is squared.
Pressing

• Once the fabric has been

blocked, set the position of
the yarns with the steam and
heat of pressing.

• Press in the directions of the

lengthwise and the crosswise
grains. Never press on the
bias.

• Apply steam followed by a

dry iron.
Seam allowances

• Beginner students of draping

are usually expected to add
1” seam allowances on all
straight seams, including
side seams, waistline seams,
and under arm seams.

• All curved seams are

planned with ½” seam
allowances.
Apex

• The highest point of the bust

on a dress form or live model

• Reference point for

establishing the cross grain
position on the front bodice
Grain

• The direction of the yarns in a

fabric, warp and weft

• It consists of :
• Straight grain
• Cross grain
• Bias grain
Lengthwise Grain

• Threads that run parallel to

the selvage of the fabric

• Also known as the warp or

straight of grain
Cross Grain

• Cross Grain or Crosswise

Grain

• The section of fabric weave

that runs perpendicular to
the lengthwise grain of the
fabric from selvage to
selvage
Bias Grain

• A line diagonally across the

grain of the fabric that
offers a considerable
amount of stretch ability

• True bias means being at a

45 degree angle
Break Point

• The point of a controlled turn,

roll or flare, usually relating to
coats, jackets and lapels

• Collars such as shawl collars,

reverse collars and notched
collars are suitable examples
CB

• Centre Back

• A defined place that

indicates the exact centre
of the pattern part or
garment in relation to the
true centre of the human
figure based at the back
CF

• Centre Front

• A defined place that

indicates the exact centre
of the pattern part or
garment in relation to the
true centre of the human
figure based at the front
Clip

• A small cut into the seam

allowance that extends
almost to the stitch line

• It helps release strain and

helps the seam portion lay
flat
Notch

• Mark placed on drape or

pattern to indicate the position
where corresponding garment
sections are to be matched
together and sewn and to
identify various parts of the
drape or pattern
Concave Curve

• An inside curved seam

forming an inward arc, as
in armholes or neckline
portion
Convex Curve

• An outward curved seam

forming a rounded curve as on
the outer edge of scallops,
peter pan collar and shawl
collars of the garments
Crease

• Folding and finger pressing

the fabric along the grain or
line required
Cross Mark

• A mark or set of marks placed

on a drape or pattern portion
to indicate the point at which
corresponding pieces or
garment sections are to be
matched, shirred or joined
Crotch Seam

• The curved seam that is

formed at the point where
pant legs are joined together
Ease Allowance

• The amount of excess fabric

added to the draped pattern to
make garments more
comfortable and allow for
easier movement

• Due to ease allowance the

wearer feels more comfort
Square Line

• A straight line drawn

perpendicular from another
line

• An L – shaped ruler is used

Stitch Line

• The line designated for

stitching the seam, generally
5/8”, ½” , 3/8” or ¼” from
the cut edge of the garment
patterns
Transferring

• The process of pinning and

tracing all the fabric markings
onto the pattern paper
Trim

• To cut away excess fabric and

make the seam narrower after
it has been stitched

• Trimming helps remove

unwanted bulk and excess
fabric
Ease of Seam

• The even distribution of very

slight fullness when one
section of a seam is joined to
a slightly shorter section
without forming gathers or
tucks

• Used to shape set-in sleeves,

princess seams and other
areas of the garment
Dot

• A pencil mark is placed on a

draped muslin or self fabric to
register the seam lines or style
lines

• It is used as a guide mark

Blending and Trueing
• Blending is the process of
smoothing and shaping angular and
curved lines on a seam to create a
nice transition.

• Trueing includes checking to make

sure seam lengths match, corners
are 90° angles where necessary, as
well as folding darts to create
proper seam pattern shape.
• Curves become uneven and joining
seams wind up with different
lengths.
• We need to blend the curves to
create a smooth, averaged curve
and we need to true the seams by
equalizing the difference between
the two.
Underlay

• The underside of a draped

design that is made when
establishing darts, pleats and
extensions
Vanishing point

• The tapered finished point of

a dart in the garment portion
Shirring

• Gather up fabric on the stitch

line where fullness in the
garment is desired

• Multiple rows of gathers can

be formed
SS

• Side Seam

• A defined place on a pattern or

garment that indicates the
point at which the front and
back of a garment are sewn
together

• This includes the upper torso

side part and lower torso side
part
Master Pattern

• Basic pattern, made from

specific measurements to be
used as a template for tracing
rather than cutting
Match

• To bring together notches or

other construction markings
on two pieces
Dart

• A design and fitting feature

used to take up excess fabric
of a specified width and
taper it to nothing at one or
both ends

• It aids in fitting the garment

over the body contour
Dart Legs

• The stitch line on both sides

of the dart are called dart legs
Muslin Shell

• A basic sample garment is

normally made from the
muslin fabric as an aid during
the styling and fitting process
Pivot

• The shifting or moving of a

pattern from a specified
marked position toward a
designated guideline
Princess Panel

• The area of the dress from

that extends from the
princess seams to the
armholes and side seams of
the upper torso
 ASSIGNMENT
Select any 3 designers that you like
for their draping and write why
Example

Balmain
Fall 20

I like Balmain fall

20 draping
because …
Day 3

Marking your body form in order to create guidelines for

Draping
Guidelines On A Dress Form

• Guidelines are directional lines

and markings that indicate the
centre front, centre back,
shoulder, bust level, apex, hip
level, side seam etc.
Tools required for guidelines

• Style drape/ draping tape

• Satin ribbon – 1/4th inch width
or less
• Pins
• Pin cushion
Tools required for guidelines

• Measuring tape
• Scissor
• Chalk
• Fabric marker
 A Pin for Every Purpose

• They hold pattern pieces in

place, anchor seam
allowances as you sew, fit
fabric on the body, and secure
all sorts of trims, delicate
sequins, and miniscule beads

Flat pin, pearlized plastic, plastic flower-head, ball-shaped plastic,

glass (yellow and blue) and metal (brass and silver)
 Head
• The head is the most recognizable part of a
straight pin. What it is made of dictates if it can
be pressed, and the shape determines when
you should use it in the construction process.

• Flat Also called “no head,” this pin may be

pressed with a hot iron. It’s also good for
handwork, as thread doesn’t get caught on it. A
flat head can be difficult to see on busy or
textured fabrics, however.

• Plastic Ball-shaped plastic heads come in

different sizes and colors, and may be
pearlized. Wide, flower-shaped plastic heads
are the easiest to spot, and because they are
flat, they come in handy when you need to lay
a ruler or tape measure over a pinned area.
They are also a good choice for lace, eyelet,
and loose weaves, as the large heads won’t slip
through the holes in the fabric.

• Glass This small, ball-shaped head is fairly easy

to see, and won’t melt when touched with an
Some plastic pin heads can melt under a hot iron iron.
and adhere to the fabric • Metal Metal balls aren’t common, but they can
be pressed with an iron without fear of melting
Point

• The points of pins should slide

cleanly into fabric without causing
snags or unsightly holes. Different
fabrics require different types of
points.

• Sharp These all-purpose points are

a fine choice for loosely woven,
medium-weight, and heavy-weight
fabrics.

• Extra-sharp More defined and

tapered, this point passes cleanly
through delicate fabrics.

• Ball point Created especially-and

only-for knits, this point is
rounded so it slips between the
loops of the fabric and doesn’t
pierce or pull the yarns.
Length

• Some sewing projects

require long pins, other
ventures may do better with
short, stubby pins.

• Pin length used to be listed

on packages as sizes (size 12
= 3/4 inch long, etc.), but
most pin manufacturers now
just list the actual lengths.
Length

• Appliqué/sequin This 1/2- to 3/4-

inch length is the best choice for
applying appliqués, trim, or
sequins, as you can position many
pins close together. Long pins, in
comparison, overlap awkwardly.

• Dressmaker/all-purpose This is a
medium- length (1-1/16- to 1-1/2-
inch) pin. It is appropriate for all
sorts of garment sewing.

• Quilting Made especially for

pinning through many layers of
fabric and batting, this 1-1/2- to 2-
inch pin is also garment-friendly,
as its long length hardly ever slips
out of place.
 Thickness
• To avoid marring fabric with pin
holes, choose the thinnest pin to
accomplish the task at hand.

• 0.4mm The thinnest traditional pin

is a 0.4mm “Patchwork Pin (Fine)”.
It passes through the finest of
sheers.

• 0.5mm Called “extra-fine,” “super-

fine,” “silk,” or “satin,” these
0.5mm pins are recommended for
fine, lightweight fabrics, including
some sheers.

• 0.6mm Most all-purpose pins are

labelled “fine,” and are best paired
with medium-weight fabrics.

.4mm, .5mm, .6mm and .7mm or .8mm. • 0.7mm or 0.8mm Although harder
to find, these diameters are great
for thicker fabrics like heavy wools,
denim, and quilted layers. But they
do leave large holes .
Insect pins
• Insect pins: superfine and rust-
resistant

• This very skinny (size 00 –

0.3mm) and flexible spring
steel pin is a great choice for
fine fabrics.

• Originally created for insect

collectors and entomologists,
the double-coating of black
enamel-to resist insect fluids-
makes them easy to see, plus
they’re rust-resistant.
 Metal content
• A pin’s content is important,
especially if you are allergic to
certain metals

• There are six types: stainless steel,

nickel-plated steel, nickel-plated
brass, brass, and chrome-plated
steel, which is the strongest
option. If you aren’t sure of the
metal, test it with a magnet;
stainless steel and brass pins
won’t cling.

• Put through a salt-water test, only

nickel-plated brass pass. To test
the rust-resistance of various
metal types, spritz each pin with
salt water. Nickel-plated and
chrome-plated steel should only
Stainless steel, nickel-plated steel, nickel-plated rust if the plating is damaged,
brass, brass, and chrome-plated steel. stainless steel should offer the
best resistance. Brass tarnishes,
but any residue washes out.
Specialty pins
• For certain projects, you need special
pins.

• T-pin This 1-3/4-inch-long thick pin can

pierce and hold hefty upholstery and
outdoor fabrics.

• Fork Fine and 1-5/8 inches long, this

two-prong pin curves up at the end,
which allows you to pin hard-to-handle
fabrics, like lining, without lifting it. Also
use to align stripes and plaids.

• Glow-in-the-dark If you drop this pin,

turn off the light and look for its glowing
head.

• Tidy Similar to the fork pin, but flat and

square. It was created to secure doilies,
arm covers, and slipcovers to furniture.

• Pleating This fine, strong, sharp pin is 1

inch long, which allows you to perfectly
pin out pleats.

• Twist The thumbtack-like plastic head

and short corkscrew shaft holds
slipcovers and mattress pads in place.
 Safety pins
• Safety pins won’t wriggle free or
poke you as you sew. They are
available in a range of metals and
colors, as well as sizes: size 00 (3/4
inch long), size 0 (7/8 inch long),
size 1 (1-1/16 inches long), size 2 (1-
1/2 inches long), and size 3 (2
inches long).

• Skirt Also known as a kilt pin, this

decorative pin holds skirts and kilts
closed.

• Button The bump in this pin holds

delicate, non-washable buttons
temporarily in place.

• Curved The bend makes basting

Left to right: Skirt pin, button pin, curved pin, quilts easy and ensures that the
traditional pin layers never shift.

• Traditional These pins can be used

for sewing, quilting, and crafts.
Pincushion
• Why the tomato? According to
folklore, placing a tomato on the
mantle of a new home guaranteed
prosperity and repelled evil spirits.
If tomatoes were out of season,
families improvised by using a
round ball of red fabric filled with
sand or sawdust.
• The good-luck symbol also served
a practical purpose-a place to
store pins.
• These days, a strawberry-shaped
emery often comes attached to
the tomato. It is filled with silica,
which cleans and sharpens pins
and needles
Magnetic Dispenser

• With its shut-tight lid, the

magnetic dispenser is the best
way to transport pins, and the
.
lid grabs a few pins every time
you open it
Magnetic Pincushion

• Although called a magnetic

pincushion, this tool is a
magnetic dish.

• You can also toss a pin in its

general direction and the
magnet will draw it in.
A finger pincushion

• A finger pincushion

• Miniature version of
hand/wrist pincushion
Felted Wool Cushion

• Lanolin in the felted wool

cushion lubricates and
protects pins from rust and
corrosion