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Other documents randomly have
different content
The Project Gutenberg eBook of Orkney and
Shetland
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: Orkney and Shetland

Author: John George Flett Moodie Heddle

T. Mainland

Release date: February 15, 2020 [eBook #61416]

Most recently updated: October 17, 2024

Language: English

Credits: F E H, MWS, and the Online Distributed Proofreading

Team

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORKNEY AND

SHETLAND ***
 Transcriber’s Note
Changes that have been made are listed at the end of the book.
 PHYSICAL MAP OF SHETLAND.
Click here for larger map

Parishes in Shetland: 1 Unst 2 Fetlar 3 Yell 4 Northmavine 5 Delting 6 Walls

7 Sandsting 8 Nesting 9 Tingwall 10 Lerwick 11 Bressay 12 Dunrossness

PHYSICAL MAP OF ORKNEY.

Click here for larger map

Parishes in Orkney: 1 Papa Westray 1b. Westray & Papa Westray 2 Cross &
Burness 3 Lady 4 Stronsay 5 Rowsay & Egilshay 6 Evie & Rendall 7 Harray &
Birsay 8 Sandwick 9 Stromness 10 Firth 11 Orphir 12 Kirkwall & St. Ola
13 Shapinshay 14 Deerness & St. Andrews 15 Holm 16 Hoy & Graemsay 17 Walls
& Flotta 18 South Ronaldshay 19 Stenness 20 Eday & Pharay
The Cambridge University Press
Copyright. George Philip & Son Ltd.
 CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES
SCOTLAND
General Editor: W. Murison, M.A.

ORKNEY AND SHETLAND

 CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS
London: FETTER LANE, E.C.4
C. F. CLAY, Manager

Bombay, Calcutta and Madras: MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd.

Toronto: J. M. DENT & SONS, Ltd.
Tokyo: MARUZEN-KABUSHIKI-KAISHA
Cambridge County Geographies

ORKNEY
AND

SHETLAND
by

J. G. F. MOODIE HEDDLE
and

T. MAINLAND, F.E.I.S.
Headmaster, Bressay Public School

With Maps, Diagrams, and Illustrations

CAMBRIDGE
AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS
1920

Printed in Great Britain

by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh
 CONTENTS
ORKNEY
PAGE
1. County and Shire 1
General Characteristics and Natural 2
2.
Conditions
3. Size. Situation. Boundaries 5
4. Streams and Lakes 8
5. Geology and Soil 10
6. Natural History 14
7. The Coast 26
8. Weather and Climate 30
9. The People—Race, Language, Population 35
10. Agriculture 37
11. Industries and Manufactures 39
12. Fisheries and Fishing Station 41
13. History of the County 43
14. Antiquities 59
15. Architecture—(a) Ecclesiastical 68
16. Architecture—(b) Castellated 74
17. Architecture—(c) Municipal and Domestic 79
18. Communications, Past and Present 83
19. Administration and Divisions 85
20. The Roll of Honour 86
21. The Chief Towns and Villages of Orkney 96
 ILLUSTRATIONS
ORKNEY
PAGE
Rackwick, Hoy 3
The Home Fleet in Scapa Flow 7
Loch of Kirbuster, in Orphir 9
Berry Head, Hoy 12
The Great Auk 18
Crannie in which last Great Auk lived 19
The Old Man of Hoy 27
Old Melsetter House, in Walls 32
Harvesting at Stenness 38
Orkney Yawl Boats 40
Kirkwall 46
St Magnus’s Cathedral, Kirkwall, from South- 51
East
Tankerness House and St Magnus’s Cathedral 54
Ground Plan of Broch of Lingrow, near Kirkwall 60
Stone Circle of Stenness 62
Maeshowe, Section and Ground Plan 63
Incised Dragon, from Maeshowe 66
Norse Brooch, found in Sandwick 67
Silver Ornaments, found in Sandwick 67
St Magnus’s Cathedral, view from N. Transept 69
looking towards Choir
St Magnus’s Church, Egilsay 71
Ground Plan of St Magnus’s Cathedral, Kirkwall 72
Apse of ancient Round Church, in Orphir 73
Noltland Castle, Westray (15th century) 75
The Staircase, Noltland Castle 76
The Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall (c. A.D. 1600) 78
Town Hall, Kirkwall 80
Balfour Castle, Shapinsay 81
Tankerness House, Kirkwall 82
John Rae 88
David Vedder 89
Sir Robert Strange, the Engraver 92
Malcolm Laing 94
Stromness, Orkney, about the year 1825 97

MAPS

Orographical Maps of Orkney and Shetland Front Cover

Geological Maps of Orkney and Shetland Back Cover
The illustrations on pp. 3, 7, 9, 12, 27, 38, 46, 54, 62,
80, 81 are reproduced from photographs by Mr T. Kent,
Kirkwall; that on p. 32 from a photograph by the Author;
that on p. 40 by permission of Messrs J. Spence & Son,
St Margaret’s Hope; those on pp. 60 and 72 are from
Tudor’s Orkney and Shetland, by permission of Edward
Stanford, Ltd., that on p. 69 by kind permission of Messrs
William Peace & Son, Kirkwall; that on p. 71 from a
photograph by Valentine & Sons, Ltd., that on p. 82 by
kind permission of Dr Thomas Ross; and that on p. 88 by
arrangement with Elliott & Fry, Ltd.
 CONTENTS
SHETLAND
PAGE
County and Shire. Name and 103
1.
Administration of Shetland
2. General Characteristics 104
3. Size. Position. Boundaries 106
4. Surface and General Features 107
5. Geology and Soil 109
6. Natural History 111
Round the Coast—(a) Along the East 116
7. from
Fair Isle to Unst
Round the Coast—(b) Along the West 124
8. from
Fethaland to Fitful Head
9. Climate 127
10. People—Race, Language, Population 133
11. Agriculture and other Industries 134
12. Fishing 139
13. Shipping and Trade 143
14. History 145
15. Antiquities 147
16. Architecture 153
17. Communications 156
18. Roll of Honour 157
 The Chief Towns and Villages of 161
19.
Shetland
 ILLUSTRATIONS
SHETLAND
PAGE
Crofter’s Cottage 104
Kittiwakes. Noss Isle 112
Shag on Nest. Noss Isle 113
Sumburgh Head and Lighthouse 117
Bressay Lighthouse and Foghorn 118
Cliff Scenery, Noss. Bressay 119
Mavis Grind, looking south 121
Muckle Flugga Lighthouse 123
The Kame, Foula 126
Wind Roses, showing the prevailing winds at 129
Sumburgh Head
Graph showing average Rainfall and 130
Temperature
Sunrise at Midsummer, 2.30 a.m. 132
Single-Stilted Shetland Plough 136
Carding and Spinning 137
“Leading” Home the Peats 138
Dutch Fishing Fleet in Lerwick Harbour 140
Steam Drifters and Fish Market, Lerwick 141
Shoal of Whales 143
A Busy Day at Victoria Pier, Lerwick 144
Broch of Mousa 147
Ground Plan, Broch of Mousa 148
Sectional Elevation, Broch of Mousa 149
Gold Armlet (Norse) from Isle of Oxna 150
Bressay Stone. Obverse and Reverse 151
Sandstone Slab with Ogham Inscription from 151
Cunningsburgh
Lunnasting Stone 152
Burra Stone 152
Scalloway Castle 153
Muness Castle, Unst 154
Town Hall, Lerwick (Midnight, June) 155
Arthur Anderson 158
Anderson Institute, Lerwick 159
Lerwick, North and South 162
Scalloway 163
Diagrams 164
The illustrations on pp. 104, 112, 113, 118, 119, 162,
are from photographs by Mr J. D. Ratter, Lerwick; those
on pp. 117, 121, 123, 126, 132, 138, 140, 141, 143, 144,
147, 153, 154, 155, 159, 163, by Mr R. H. Ramsay,
Lerwick; that on p. 137 by Valentine & Sons, Ltd., those
on pp. 148, 149, 152, are from Tudor’s Orkney and
Shetland by permission of Edward Stanford, Ltd., and
that on p. 158 by permission of Mr J. Nicolson of
Glenmount, Lerwick.
 ORKNEY

By J. G. F. MOODIE HEDDLE
 PREFACE
I wish to thank Captain Malcolm Laing of Crook for the photograph
from Sir Henry Raeburn’s portrait of Malcolm Laing, the historian;
Andrew Wylie, Esquire, Provost of Stromness, for the portraits of Dr
Rae and David Vedder; and J. A. Harvie-Brown, Esquire, Dunipace
House, Stirlingshire, for the photograph of the Great Auk’s resting-
place.
J. G. F. M. H.
ORKNEY
1. County and Shire
The word shire is of Old English origin, and meant charge,
administration. The Norman Conquest introduced an alternative
designation, the word county—through Old French from Latin
comitatus, which in mediaeval documents stands for shire. County
denotes the district under a count, the king’s comes, the equivalent
of the older English term earl. This system of local administration
entered Scotland as part of the Anglo-Norman influence that
strongly affected our country after 1100.
The exceptional character of the historical nexus between the
Orkney Islands and Scotland, makes it somewhat difficult to fix
definitely the date at which Orkney can be fairly said to have first
constituted a Scottish county. For a period of about one hundred and
fifty years after the conditional and, to all intent, temporary cession
of the Islands to Scotland in the year 1468, Scottish and Norse law
overlapped each other to a large extent in Orkney. And although
during that period the Scottish Crown both invested earls, and
appointed sheriffs of Orkney, yet so long as Norse law subsisted in
the Islands, as it did largely in practice and absolutely in theory until
the year 1612, it is hardly possible to consider Orkney a Scottish
county. The relation of the Islands towards Scotland during this
confused period of fiscal evolution bears more resemblance to that
of the Isle of Man towards England at the present day. When,
however, in the year 1612 an Act of the Scottish Privy Council
applied the general law of Scotland to the Islands, although the
proceeding was in defiance of the conditions of their cession, Orkney
may be held to have at last entered into the full comity of Scottish
civil life, and may thenceforth, without impropriety or cavil, be
considered and spoken of as the County or Shire of Orkney.
 The Latin name Orcades implies the islands adjacent to Cape
Orcas, a promontory first mentioned by Diodorus Siculus about 57
b.c. as one of the northern extremities of Britain, and commonly held
to be Dunnet Head.
The Norse name was Orkneyar, of which our Orkney is a
curtailment. The name orc appears to have been applied by both
Celtic and Teutonic races to some half-mythical sea-monster, which
according to Ariosto, in Orlando Furioso, devoured men and women;
but the suggested connection between this animal and the name of
the county appears a little far-fetched, although the large number of
whales in the surrounding waters is quoted to support it.
2. General Characteristics and Natural
Conditions

Rackwick, Hoy

Orkney occupies the somewhat anomalous position of being a

wholly insular shire whose economic interests are overwhelmingly
agricultural. Most of the islands are flat or low; and in several, such
as Shapinsay, Stronsay, Sanday, and South Ronaldshay, the
proportion of cultivated land exceeds 70 per cent. of their total
areas. In the Mainland, however, there are large stretches of hill and
moorland, while in Hoy and Walls the natural conditions of by far the
greater portion of the island closely approximate to those of the
Scottish Highlands. Rousay is the only other island which is to a
large extent hilly; but Westray and Eday have some hills, and Burray,
Flotta, and several other islands considerable stretches of low-lying
moor. The general rise of the land is from N.E. to S.W. A height of
334 feet is attained at the Ward Hill at the south end of Eday, 880
feet at the Ward Hill of Orphir, in the S.W. of the Mainland, 1420 at
Cuilags, 1564 at Ward Hill, and 1309 at Knap of Trowieglen, the
three highest points in Hoy and in the whole group. Exceptionally
fine views are obtained from Wideford Hill (741 feet), near Kirkwall,
and from the Ward Hill in Hoy, the varied panoramas of islands,
sounds, and lakes perhaps gaining in grace of outline more than
they lose in richness of detail from the woodless character of the
country.
Taken in detail, and viewed from the low ground, however, the
general aspect of much of the country is bleak, and only redeemed
from baldness by the widely-spread evidence of a vigorous
cultivation. Yet for reasons of a somewhat complex texture, involving
meteorological conditions, historical and archaeological
considerations, and a touch of all-round individuality, the Islands
rarely fail to cast a spell upon the visitor. One might quote many
distinguished writers to vouch for this fact, but an Orcadian poet has
depicted the telling features of his native land, both physical and
psychic, with unerring accuracy and skill.
 Land of the whirlpool, torrent, foam,
Where oceans meet in maddening shock;
The beetling cliff, the shelving holm,
The dark, insidious rock;
Land of the bleak, the treeless moor,
The sterile mountain, seared and riven;
The shapeless cairn, the ruined tower,
Scathed by the bolts of heaven;
The yawning gulf, the treacherous sand;
I love thee still, my native land!

Land of the dark, the Runic rhyme,

The mystic ring, the cavern hoar,
The Scandinavian seer, sublime
In legendary lore;
Land of a thousand sea-kings’ graves—
Those tameless spirits of the past,
Fierce as their subject Arctic waves,
Or hyperborean blast;
Though polar billows round thee foam,
I love thee!—thou wert once my home.

With glowing heart and island lyre,

Ah! would some native bard arise
To sing, with all a poet’s fire,
Thy stern sublimities—
The roaring flood, the rushing stream,
The promontory wild and bare,
The pyramid where sea-birds scream
Aloft in middle air,
The Druid temple on the heath,
Old even beyond tradition’s breath.

If we allow a little for the softer side of the picture, a side perhaps
best typified by the fine old buildings of the little island capital, and
the spell of the lightful midsummer night, which is no night, the lines
of Vedder form a fair compendium of the natural conditions and
general characteristics of the Islands to-day, although much of the
“bleak and treeless moor” of the poet’s youth has long since been
converted into smiling fields of corn.
3. Size. Situation. Boundaries
The Orkney Islands extend between the parallels 58° 41´ and 59°
24´ of north latitude, and 2° 22´ and 3° 26´ of west longitude.
They measure 56 miles from north-east to south-west, and 29 miles
from east to west, and cover 240,476 acres or 375.5 square miles,
exclusive of fresh water lochs. The group is bounded by the North
Sea and the Pentland Firth on the south, the Atlantic on the west,
Sumburgh Roost on the north, and the North Sea on the east. Our
measurements take no account of the distant Sule Skerry, an islet of
35 acres lying 32½ miles north-west of Hoy Head, and inhabited
only by lightkeepers and innumerable birds. The archipelago is
naturally divided into three sections: the Mainland in the centre, the
South Isles including all islands to the south, and the North Isles all
to the north, of the Mainland. The Mainland—the Norse Meginland,
or Hrossey, i.e. Horse Island—covers 190 square miles, and is 25
miles long from north-west to south-east, and 15 miles broad from
east to west. It is divided into two unequal portions, the East
Mainland and the West Mainland, by an isthmus less than two miles
across, which connects Kirkwall Bay on its north sea-board with
Scapa Flow, a large and picturesque inland sea, now well known as
a naval base, which lies between its south coasts and the encircling
South Isles. The name Pomona, stamped on the Mainland by George
Buchanan’s misapprehension of a Latin text, is never applied to the
island by Orcadians; and here be it also said that Hoy and Walls, the
largest of the South Isles and the second in size of the whole group
(13½ miles long by about 5½ miles broad, and covering 36,674
acres), although one island geographically, is colloquially two. The
principal of the other South Isles are South Ronaldshay, 13,080
acres; Burray, 2682 acres; Flotta, 2661 acres; Graemsay, 1151 acres;
and Fara, 840 acres. Scapa Flow is connected with the Pentland Firth
to the south by Hoxa Sound, with the Atlantic to the west by Hoy
Sound, and with the North Sea to the east by Holm Sound. The
largest of the North Isles are Sanday, 16,498 acres; Westray, 13,096
acres; Rousay, 11,937 acres; Stronsay, 9839 acres; Eday, 7371
acres; Shapinsay, 7171 acres; Papa Westray, 2403 acres; North
Ronaldshay, 2386 acres; and Egilsay, 1636 acres. This section of the
archipelago is itself divided into two portions by the waterway
formed by the Stronsay and Westray Firths, which runs from south-
east to north-west through the islands, and offers an alternative to
the Pentland Firth or Sumburgh Roost passages for vessels passing
between the North Sea and the Atlantic.

The Home Fleet in Scapa Flow

The whole archipelago includes some 67 islands, besides a score

or more of islets, but only 30 are inhabited, and four or five of these
are occupied solely by lighthouse attendants and their families. Small
uninhabited islands, many of which are used as pasturage, are
known as “holms.” The largest uninhabited island is the Calf of Eday,
of 590 acres, but some 10 of the inhabited islands are of less area
than this.