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Other documents randomly have
different content
 Badlands National Monument
South Dakota
One section (1 mile square—640 acres)
Eliminated in 1952 31,442.52 acres
Added in 1952 4,449.29 acres
Eliminated in 1957 11,234.09 acres
Added in 1957 241.39 acres
51
Shortly afterwards on February 8, telegrams were sent to
Congressmen Berry, Senator Case, and Senator Karl Mundt by the
executive committee of the tribal council of the Oglala Sioux Tribe.
The messages urged the congressmen to do their best to get Section
5 restored so it would be possible for the tribe to negotiate with the
federal government for exchange of the land in the Sheep Mountain
[204]
area for other lands. The House, however, did not heed this
resolution but voted instead to concur with the Senate’s amended
version. The bill became Public Law 328 after being signed by
[205]
President Harry S Truman on May 7, 1952.

Under this law, the Secretary of the Interior was authorized to adjust
and redefine at his discretion the exterior boundary of the national
monument by appropriate reductions or additions. The law specified,
among other things, that the adjusted area could not exceed the
[206]
existing 154,119 acres. (An official figure of 150,103.41 acres
was used as the total acreage of the area at the time it was
proclaimed as a national monument in 1939. A revised figure, listing
154,119.46 acres for the same area, was used as the total acreage
[207]
from about 1943 until October 1952. )

Immediately after the bill became law, proposed boundary changes

received considerable attention. Some believed that the area of the
national monument should be reduced. A strong supporter of this
view was the South Dakota Stock Growers Association. It was the
organization’s belief that the size could be reduced by about one-half
without destroying any of its scenic value. They estimated that 3,000
head of cattle would be without grass if the NPS carried through its
plan to fence the area and eliminate grazing from the national
monument. One of the biggest problems was the large acreage of
private lands located within its boundary. Many ranchers believed
that these lands ought to be eliminated “from the Badlands National
Monument wherever a reasonable boundary adjustment can be
[208]
made.” Others contended “that all of the grassland west of
Pinnacles [Sage Creek Basin] could be removed from the Park and
that such removal would in no way destroy the attraction to the
[209]
tourist.”

A 1953 memorandum from the Regional Director to NPS Director

Conrad L. Wirth explained how Sage Creek Basin had become largely
government-owned:

Sage Creek Basin was a submarginal waste in the 1930’s due to

prolonged and severe drought conditions and considerable
acreages of private lands were acquired by the Resettlement
Administration in connection with its submarginal land program....
Other private parcels became tax delinquent and were ultimately
sold to private owners by Pennington County in the 1940’s.
Because of favorable climatic conditions of the past several years,
the basin has recovered from its condition of the 1930’s; it now
contains a considerable acreage of good grasslands.... We venture
the opinion that had vegetative conditions of the basin in the
1930’s resembled those of today, a submarginal land program
would not have been undertaken so far as the basin is concerned.
[210]

Owing to the great interest generated by the proposed boundary

changes, the NPS issued a statement in July 1952 giving 52
reasons why it would not be “advisable to eliminate from the
Monument the grasslands west of the Pinnacles, as suggested by the
[211]
South Dakota Stock Growers Association.” It said in part that

These flatter lands with their cover of native grasses and

wildflowers, typical of the surrounding prairie country, are valuable
for park and wildlife purposes. The preservation of this relatively
small exhibit of native grass is an important responsibility in itself,
since no comparable section of the Great Plains has been set apart
[212]
to be preserved in its natural condition.

The statement also indicated that about 31,700 acres of other lands
were to be eliminated from the national monument, including more
than 12,000 acres of privately owned lands. It indicated that the Soil
Conservation Service agreed to these revisions and that they were
“the same as those which the Congress considered when it
[213]
authorized boundary revisions by enacting Public Law 328.”

On October 3, 1952, Assistant Secretary of the Interior Joel D.

Wolfsohn issued an order revising the boundary of the national
monument. The order showed that 30,802.52 acres, more or less,
were “hereby transferred from the Department of the Interior to the
Department of Agriculture for use, administration, and disposition in
accordance with the provisions of Title III of the Bankhead-Jones
Farm Tenant Act....” This reduced the size of Badlands National
[214]
Monument, according to the order, to 121,883.12 acres.

The Order was performed to provide lands for the Soil

Conservation Service to enable those persons having private land
in the monument to trade for Soil Conservation Service lands
outside the monument, and to make a few administrative
[215]
adjustments in the monument boundary.
However, discrepancies in the land records led the NPS to investigate
[216]
the status of lands within the former boundary. By late 1953 it
was found that 31,442.52 acres were eliminated from the national
monument by the October 3 order instead of 30,802.52 acres. Of
these 12,916.32 acres were private lands; the remaining 18,526.20
acres were transferred to the Soil Conservation Service of the
[217]
Department of Agriculture.

There were also lands totaling about 4,449 acres added to the
national monument by the October 3 order; these lands included

“2,581.88 acres of public domain, 336.88 acres of purchased land,

981.79 acres of Soil Conservation Service land and 548.56 acres of
private land.... The net result of the boundary adjustments was a
loss of 26,993.23 acres of land in Badlands National
[218]
Monument.”

Even before the October 3 order was enacted there was already talk
about further reduction of the area boundary. In a memorandum
dated December 5, 1952, Director Wirth wrote to the Regional
Director in charge of Badlands National Monument:

53
Figure 24 A PORTION OF SAGE CREEK BASIN

In 1953 over 25,000 acres were recommended by the NPS for deletion from
[219]
this section of the national monument. Later, studies revealed that the
area should be retained. Today it is home for bison, deer, pronghorn, prairie
dogs, and other animals. Sage Creek Primitive Campground is located in its
northwest section.

The basis for a final solution [of the boundary problem at

Badlands National Monument] lies in a reassessment and
restatement of Monument objectives and significance. If it is
found, as appears likely, that our chief concern and purpose
should be with the badlands formations, then the boundaries
should be drawn accordingly, with due regard for badlands
protection, interpretation and attendant development needs. If we
are to retain some or all of the grasslands, we must have strong
 and valid justification for doing so and be prepared to disclose and
defend what specific Monument purposes and uses they are to
[220]
serve.

In order to determine if the grasslands west of Pinnacles should be

kept, the NPS contracted with a number of prominent scientists to
make studies of the area in 1953. Dr. Theodore E. White, a
paleontologist with the Smithsonian Institution, determined in June
1953 whether or not potentially fossiliferous areas would be
[221]
excluded by proposed boundary readjustments. Late that
summer archeological investigations were undertaken by
Archeologist Paul L. Beaubien of the NPS Regional Office in Omaha,
Nebraska. He recorded some 30 prehistoric Indian sites and one
historic Indian site believed to have been used by Chief Big Foot’s
band a few days before the infamous battle at Wounded Knee in
[222]
December 1890.

Professor F.W. Albertson of Fort Hays Kansas State College 54

submitted a Report of Study of Grassland Areas of
Badlands National Monument in September. In brief he said, “it
seems to me that the Park Service has an extremely interesting area,
which should be preserved for all interested public through the years
[223]
to come.”

Meanwhile, support grew for retention of the boundaries as spelled

out by the October 3, 1952, secretarial order. The Rapid City Chapter
of the Izaak Walton League of America, the South Dakota State
Highway Commission, the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish
and Parks, the Black Hills and Badlands Association, and prominent
local persons, including Sid Soma, Dr. G.W. Mills, Ted Hustead, and
Leonel Jensen, all from the town of Wall, were but a few of the
[224]
many who advocated retention of the present boundary.
Although the South Dakota Stock Growers Association and some
local ranching interests continued to advocate “the transfer of
administration of all grazing lands within the monument not needed
for road and development purposes,” it became evident to these
people that opposition was building up against further acreage
[225]
reduction in the park.

In April 1954 the NPS recommended no boundary changes until the

problem was explored further. Director Wirth said:

it seems apparent that there is a very considerable number of

people ... which strongly support the retention of the Badlands
National Monument not only as a striking example of geological
formations, with areas of paleontological interest, but also for
preservation of a segment of the plains grassland and native
wildlife as added attractions. On the other hand, there is also a
difficult problem of inholdings and grazing complications, with
strong sentiment from the livestock owners for a reduction of the
[226]
Monument.

He recommended, among other things, that exchanges of private

land inside the boundary for federal lands outside be pushed
vigorously, and that Dr. Adolph Murie, NPS Biologist, should study
[227]
the wildlife possibilities of the national monument.

In his report Dr. Murie said:

Badlands National Monument has national significance, first of all

because it is a sample of the Badlands. The values of this
monument are of outstanding significance in the fields of geology,
paleontology, archeology, and biology. The eroded terrain has
scenic value for many, and in Sage Creek Basin and in the section
north of Cedar Pass one finds the atmosphere of the early scene,
when this country was far beyond the frontier....
 In Sage Creek Basin we have an opportunity to preserve the
prairie dog-blackfooted ferret community, with many other
associated species of the region.... Likewise the rare kit fox may
possibly be preserved in the basin. The value of Sage Creek Basin
for preserving these rare native species is contingent on size and
its present size is none too large....

Concerning boundaries in general over the monument it 55

appears that any eliminations would be harmful to public
values. Only in minor details, in connection with land adjustments,
should any territory be sacrificed. Sage Creek Basin, especially,
[228]
should not be reduced....

Also during the summer of 1954, the NPS requested Dr. James D.
Bump, Director of Museum of Geology of the South Dakota School of
Mines and Technology at Rapid City, to make a geological and
paleontological appraisal of Badlands National Monument.
Quotations from his report point out his strong feelings for the area:

The Big Badlands of South Dakota, from a paleontological

standpoint, probably constitutes the richest Oligocene region in
the world.... [The quantity of] paleontological materials given up
to man over the past 100 years is of astounding proportions. This
prehistorical treasure represents more than 250 species of the
vertebrate life of thirty million years ago....

The Badlands National Monument is a part of the greatest

badland-eroded section in North America.... I can think of no other
geographic area of like-size that has the unusual natural beauty,
the undisturbed plant and animal life and the wealth of scientific
[229]
information to offer the public....

He ended his report by making a number of recommendations, some

of which follow:
 The present boundaries must remain intact. Removal of any lands,
except perhaps some thin scattered fringes, would seriously
cripple future development and greatly reduce the attractiveness
of the Monument....

Under no circumstances should any part of the Sage Creek Basin

be withdrawn. Its scientific and natural value cannot be
overestimated and it is my opinion that this section will in the
future become one of the most interesting and educational of the
[230]
entire Monument.

As a result of Dr. Murie’s wildlife study and Dr. Bump’s geological and
paleontological appraisal, the Service began formulating definite
ideas in April 1955 concerning further revision of the boundary. An
elimination of 11,124 acres including 4,234 acres of privately owned
lands was proposed. This is only about one-third of the 32,000 acres
which was being widely talked about as a possible reduction in size
during 1953. The larger reduction would have included much of the
grasslands west of Pinnacles. Addition of 4,460 acres, including
3,954 acres of Pine Ridge Indian Reservation lands and 246 acres of
Department of the Army lands located on the Indian reservation,
was also proposed. Net reduction in area would be about 6,664
[231]
acres.

Since the mid-1930’s there have been various suggestions that a

road be constructed to connect Sage Creek Basin with the Sheep
Mountain locality. Although it was not in the master plan for the
national monument in the 1950’s, planning for the ultimate boundary
[232]
was done so that the road could be built if ultimately needed.
However, Dr. Murie recommended against the road proposal in his
[233]
report.
 56

Figure 25 BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT VISITOR CENTER

Dedicated in 1959, the building houses the national monument’s

administrative offices, exhibits on the Badlands, and a small theater in which
there are narrated slide programs on the highlights of the Badlands. The
facility is open all year.

On April 12, 1956, an open meeting was held in Wall, South Dakota,
to discuss proposed boundary changes with ranchers, stockmen, and
local businessmen. No opposition to the proposals was voiced. The
meeting also provided an opportunity for discussion of development
[234]
plans, including fencing and grazing matters.

On March 22, 1957, Acting Secretary of the Interior Hatfield Chilson

issued an order eliminating 11,234.09 acres from the national
monument, of which about 4,000 acres were private land. The total
area of Badlands National Monument was fixed at 111,529.82 acres.
This also included an addition of 240 acres of federal land which,
among other things, increased the utility area at headquarters and
provided a much needed disposal area. An additional 1.39 acres of
federal land, located along the White River three miles south of
headquarters, were added, since water storage tanks and a water
pump, all part of the area’s water system, are located there. More
than 7,000 acres of the 11,234.09-acre reduction were transferred to
the Department of Agriculture, under provisions of the Bankhead-
Jones Farm Tenant Act, and became available for exchange for
private land remaining inside the new boundary. As a result of the
secretarial order, there was a net reduction of 10,992.70 acres in the
size of the national monument. The new boundary included
98,486.39 acres in federal ownership and 13,043.43 acres of non-
[235]
federal land. Since then, the Service has acquired title to
6,356.71 acres of the non-federal land within the boundary. As of
December 1967 there were 104,843.10 acres of federal land and
6,686.72 acres of non-federal land within the boundary of Badlands
[236]
National Monument.

On January 2, 1954, the Secretary of Agriculture transferred the

Land Utilization Program, including lands in the vicinity of the
national monument, from the Soil Conservation Service to the 57
[237]
U.S. Forest Service. This, in part, prompted a Program of
Procedure for Land Exchanges, a revision of the
Recommended Program of Procedure, to be drafted. The new
agreement was signed in September 1954 by officials of both
services. It states in part that all future land exchanges are to be
handled by the Forest Service. This includes exchanges with private
parties who own land inside the national monument boundary. One
objective of such land exchanges is to eliminate all non-federal lands
[238]
from within Badlands National Monument. Since 1954
elimination of such lands has come about largely through exchanges,
although in a few instances actual purchases were made.
Figure 26
RIBBON-CUTTING CEREMONY AT BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT
DEDICATION, SEPTEMBER 16, 1959
Left to Right: NPS Regional Director Howard Baker, Region Two (now Midwest
Region); Conrad Wirth, NPS Director; Fred Seaton, Secretary of the Interior;
Congressman E.Y. Berry; Mrs. George H. Sholly, widow of Badlands National
Monument Superintendent; Mrs. Ralph Herseth; and Governor Ralph Herseth
of South Dakota.

Concurrently with boundary adjustments, the NPS gave considerable

thought to a grazing management plan for the area whereby grazing
might be eliminated without serious hardship to the local ranchers.
As a result the Service presented a plan in May 1948 to grazing
permittees outlining a schedule for the gradual termination of
grazing on federally owned national monument lands by December
[239]
31, 1961.

59
 MISSION 66 DEVELOPMENT
In 1956, the National Park Service launched a 10-year park
conservation development program known as Mission 66. This was
to have great impact on the national monument. Under the program
an expenditure of nearly $5,000,000 for roads, trails, buildings, and
utilities was planned. Among the major projects undertaken and
completed between 1956 and 1960 were a realinement and oil
surfacing of main roads, the development of the Conata Picnic Area
and the Cedar Pass and Dillon Pass campgrounds, and the erection
of utility and storage buildings, three multiple-housing units, five
[240]
employee residences, and an amphitheater.

In May 1955 the Millard family donated two tracts of land totaling
18.50 acres to the NPS. Of this total, 5.85 acres, located in front of
Cedar Pass Lodge, were donated for the right-of-way of the
relocated highway; the remaining 12.65 acres made possible the
[241]
development of Cedar Pass Campground.

The visitor center was completed in May 1959. This large structure
houses the national monument headquarters, interpretive exhibits,
[242]
and an audiovisual presentation of the Badlands story.

The installation of exhibits in the visitor center was essentially

[243]
completed by November 1960. Some of the materials used in
the exhibits were donated by a number of individuals and
institutions. Mr. Herbert Millard, son of the late Ben Millard, gave a
large mass of sand calcite crystals now in the Small Wonders Exhibit.
Dr. Winter of the University of South Dakota at Vermillion donated
the plant collection in the Great Plains Grasslands Exhibit. The
mounted badger in the Wildlife of the Grassland Exhibit was a gift
from Orville Sandall of Kadoka, South Dakota. The skull of an
Audubon Bighorn, on display above the Breaks in the Grassland
Exhibit, was donated by Willard Sharp of Interior, South Dakota. In
the exhibit showing a number of Indian artifacts are casts of early-
man points donated by the University of Nebraska State Museum.
[244]

The South Dakota School of Mines and Technology in Rapid City,

South Dakota, donated both the lower jaw and the upper jaw,
including skull, of a fossilized titanothere, which is in the Badlands
Bones Exhibit. The materials for the articulated oreodont fossil in the
same exhibit were also donated by the school. The oreodont fossil is
of particular interest because it was found northwest of Imlay, South
Dakota about 100 feet from where a famous fossilized oreodont with
unborn twins was excavated. The latter fossil is on display at the
[245]
Museum of Geology at the school (see Figure 5).

The first full-time resident park naturalist for Badlands National

Monument was assigned in June 1958 to aid with the local
[246]
interpretive program. For a number of years previously, a park
naturalist who had been assigned to Black Hills areas of the NPS also
[247]
served the national monument on an irregular basis.

60
Figure 27 CLIFF SHELF NATURE TRAIL

The loop trail, completed in 1962, is constructed over a geological slump

which has lush plant cover. To acquaint the visitor with the area’s natural
history, a trail leaflet is provided. Here, naturalist-guided walks are offered
[250]
daily during the summer months.

On September 16, 1959, following the completion of the visitor

center, the NPS dedicated Badlands National Monument. The
featured speaker for the event was Fred A. Seaton, Secretary of the
Interior, who gave the dedicatory address. Some 350 persons
[248]
attended the ceremony.

Tragedy struck a short time prior to the dedication with the sudden
death of Superintendent George H. Sholly on August 19. As a tribute
to him, the new amphitheater was named the George H. Sholly
[249]
Memorial Amphitheater.

After the boundary of Badlands National Monument was redefined

by secretarial order in March 1957, the NPS began a long-range
program for fencing it. The first segment of fencing was completed
in 1957. By early 1961 some 108 miles were fenced with 20 miles
still to be completed. To fence non-federal land excluding state land
within the national monument would require an additional 92 miles
[252]
of fence.

In December 1961 letters were delivered to all inholding owners and

to all persons who grazed stock within the national monument in
that year. The letters terminated all grazing on federal lands within
Badlands, and gave a short history of grazing in the national
monument, the reason for termination, and the objectives and plans
of the Service now that grazing was no longer permitted. Most of the
private land located inside the boundary was not fenced, so 61
unless steps were taken to fence the tracts used for grazing,
[253]
stock would still trespass on federally owned lands.
Superintendent John W. Jay and Chief Park Ranger James F. Batman
attended the legislative-committee meeting of the South Dakota
Stockgrowers Association in Rapid City on November 30, 1961,
where the matter of fencing the inholdings was discussed. Although
at the time of this meeting the Service had no plans to fence any of
the private inholdings, it later decided to assist with the fencing on
an equal cost-sharing basis in the interest of better landowner-
Service relations and in consideration of special situations relating to
livestock management that faced some of the owners of private land
[254]
in the national monument. This offer was made to the
landowners by letter from Superintendent Jay dated May 9, 1962. As
[255]
a result three landowners accepted the offer. By 1964 all of the
inholdings on which grazing was being done were fenced either on a
[256]
50-50 basis or by the individual owners.

Figure 28 FOSSIL EXHIBIT TRAIL

Completed in 1962, this paved trail is unique in that along it are displayed
partially excavated fossils protected by clear plastic domes. A shelter, located
midway along the trail, houses exhibits which tell a brief story of Badlands
[251]
fossils.

Despite the Service’s hope that grazing on the national monument’s

federally owned land would be terminated at the end of 1961, it
continued. Due to drought conditions of 1961 and early 1962,
Congressman Berry requested on behalf of the ranchers that grazing
be continued during 1962. NPS Director Wirth decided to set up an
emergency grazing program that would include only those ranchers
who held permits in 1961. Accordingly, special-use permits were
issued to 26 ranchers during 1962. This was the last year that
grazing was permitted on federally owned lands in the national
[257]
monument.

Some livestock trespassing by local ranchers continued, 62

nevertheless. In November 1962, the United States Attorney
took direct action against five ranchers who had been in trespass for
[258]
some time.

As early as 1919 a U.S. Forest Service report expressed the idea that
“Sage Creek Basin contains a large acreage of land that can be used
for a game preserve for buffalo, elk, deer, antelope and mountain
[259]
sheep.” In 1935 the proposed Badlands National Monument plus
the Badlands Recreational Demonstrational Area (most of which was
later included in the national monument when it was established in
1939) were considered to be favorable localities for the
[260]
reintroduction of buffalo, mountain sheep, and pronghorn.

However, after the national monument was established, the NPS

[261]
believed that the area was too small to provide a wildlife range.
Dr. Murie’s report

recommended that no buffalo be introduced on the monument

because of the artificial conditions under which they would have to
be maintained. If it were deemed desirable to fence an area for
[262]
buffalo the most suitable spot would be north of Cedar Pass.

Concerning bighorn sheep he “recommended that the bighorn be

introduced when the opportunity develops, and that Sheep Mountain
[263]
Peak be added to the monument for the use of the bighorn.”

Pronghorn, commonly referred to as antelope, were seen during the

1940’s on rare occasions in Badlands National Monument and just
outside the north boundary. However since 1959, 100 or more head
have been reported annually in the national monument. These
animals have come from the outside since there has not been any
[264]
formal reintroduction of pronghorn inside the boundary.

Figure 29 AMERICAN BISON AGAIN IN THE BADLANDS

After an absence of about a century, buffalo were reintroduced into the

national monument in 1963. The fast-increasing herd roams largely in the
[268]
45,000 acres of Sage Creek and Tyree Basins.

63
Figure 30 REINTRODUCTION OF BIGHORN SHEEP, 1964

These Rocky Mountain Bighorns are closely related to the now-extinct

[269]
Audubon Bighorns.

Immediately after grazing was terminated on national monument

lands in 1962, the range underwent a remarkable recovery, due to
the abundant rainfall of the 1962 and 1963 seasons. Questions arose
as to why the range was not being utilized. Superintendent Frank
Hjort recommended that bison be reintroduced as a means of
[265]
getting the wildlife restoration program underway.

In November 1963 the first herd of bison, comprised of 28 head

from Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park in North Dakota
and Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge in Nebraska, were
released in Sage Creek Basin. In October of the following year, this
herd was enlarged by an additional 25 head from Theodore
Roosevelt. The herd has done well and by the end of 1967
[266]
numbered 122 individuals.
Since 1963 the buffalo have shown that they prefer the remoteness
of Sage Creek Basin and have demonstrated little desire to leave
[267]
that area.

In January 1964 in cooperation with the South Dakota Game, Fish

and Parks Department, bighorn sheep were reintroduced. Twelve
head of Rocky Mountain Bighorns from Colorado were released in a
370-acre holding pen with the view toward eventually restocking
Badlands National Monument and other parts of South Dakota. This
flock was supplemented by ten more animals the following month.
[270]

Unfortunately, losses were suffered by both adults and lambs during

the first two and one-half years. The situation improved early in
1966 with no further losses until the summer of 1967 when the peak
flock of 27 individuals suffered a severe setback. In September,
when all but 13 had succumbed to a respiratory infection, the
bighorn were released from the holding pasture. They now 64
[271]
roam the rugged Badlands south of Pinnacles Overlook.

In February 1964, the NPS purchased Cedar Pass Lodge, together

with 72 acres of the surrounding land, for $275,000 from the Millard
family. The lodge is now being run on a contract basis by a
[272]
concessioner.

Increased travel to the area during the years of Mission 66 fully

justified the expanded development program of the national
monument. From 1956 to 1966 the number of visitors increased 65
percent (see Appendix A).

Because of this great increase in travel, the summer visitor may find
some of the scenic-overlook parking areas full, the visitor center
crowded, and the nightly campground amphitheater program with
“standing room only.” Since increased visitor use is practically
assured in the foreseeable future, plans are already being made to
provide additional facilities for visitors to Badlands National
Monument.

65
 APPENDIX A
ANNUAL NUMBER OF VISITS TO BADLANDS
NATIONAL MONUMENT SINCE ITS
[273]
ESTABLISHMENT

Total Percent increase or decrease over

Year Visits previous year
[a] 175,000
1938
1939 205,100 17.2
1940 190,243 -7.2
1941 252,878 32.9
1942 87,231 -65.5
1943 10,149 -88.4
1944 10,349 2.0
1945 31,377 203.2
1946 230,403 634.3
1947 339,843 47.5
1948 384,133 13.0
1949 373,076 -2.9
1950 447,654 20.0
1951 607,965 35.8
1952 580,902 -4.5
1953 658,691 13.4
1954 664,997 1.0
1955 630,881 -5.1
1956 663,246 5.1
1957 701,094 5.7
1958 810,837 15.7
1959 825,184 1.8
1960 878,625 6.5
1961 833,279 -5.2
1962 1,044,768 25.4
1963 1,073,971 2.8
1964 1,079,837 0.5
1965 1,091,261 1.1
1966 1,094,754 0.3
1967 1,188,666 8.6

[a]
The figures for 1938 have not been used to calculate total
visitation to the national monument since the year is before the
area was officially established.

Average annual increase in number of visits in the last 15 years has

been about 5%.

In September 1954, 15½ years after the national monument was

established, the five millionth visit was recorded. A total of ten
million visits was attained just seven years later in July 1961. On
August 16, 1966, Superintendent Frank A. Hjort officially welcomed a
traveler and his family who represented the 15 millionth visit to
Badlands National Monument. At the present rate of travel 66
increase, the 20 millionth visit is expected in 1970. As of
December 31, 1967, the total number of visits to the national
monument since its establishment in 1939 is 16,991,394.

The NPS travel year has been the same as a regular calendar year
since January 1, 1953. Before that date, the NPS travel year was
from October through September. However, total visits prior to 1953
have been recalculated to show actual calendar year totals.
67
 APPENDIX B
CUSTODIANS AND SUPERINTENDENTS of
[274]
Badlands National Monument

1. Howard B. Acting August 11, 1939-December 31,

Stricklin Custodian 1943
Custodian January 1, 1944-July 18, 1944
(Military furlough; July 19, 1944-January 13,
1946)
Custodian January 14, 1946-July 13, 1948
2. Warren K. Custodian July 19, 1944-March 20, 1945
Leland
3. Lyle K. Linch Acting June 22, 1945-January 13,
Custodian 1946
4. John E. Suter Custodian July 27, 1948-December 31,
1948
John E. Suter Superintendent January 1, 1949-January 8,
1953
5. John A. Rutter Superintendent April 12, 1953-November 30,
1957
6. George H. Superintendent January 26, 1958-August 19,
Sholly [b]
1959
7. Frank E. Superintendent February 15, 1960-October 29,
Sylvester 1960
8. John W. Jay, Jr. Superintendent December 11, 1960-October
31, 1962
9. Frank A. Hjort Superintendent February 10, 1963-September
23, 1967
10. John R. Earnst Superintendent October 22, 1967-
[b]
Mr. Sholly died from a heart attack on the evening of this date.

69
 APPENDIX C
PICTURE CREDITS
The sources for illustrations used in this publication are shown
below. Dates when each of the photographic illustrations was taken
are noted, if known, in parentheses. Department of the Interior,
National Park Service has been abbreviated to DINPS for use in
designating illustrations supplied by the NPS. The numbers to the
left correspond to figure numbers under the illustrations in the text.

1. Report of a Geological Survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, and

Minnesota; and incidentally of a portion of Nebraska
Territory, 1852, page 196.
2. Figure 64, page 127, South Dakota School of Mines Bulletin 13,
November 1920.
3. Report of a Geological Survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, and
Minnesota; and incidentally of a portion of Nebraska
Territory, 1852, between pages 196 and 197.
4. DINPS (November 20, 1967). Note: The Badlands Natural History
Association is grateful to Mr. Leonel Jensen, local rancher, for
help in locating the site of this trail. It is in S-1/2 sec. 30, T. 1 S.,
R. 15 E. of the Black Hills Meridian.
5. South Dakota School of Mines and Technology, Rapid City, South
Dakota.
6. The Rapid City Daily Journal, Monday, September 27, 1965.
7. Louis Blumer, Wall, South Dakota (about 1911).
8. A.E. Johnson, Interior, South Dakota (December 1906).
9. Ted E. Hustead, Wall Drug Store, Wall, South Dakota (1907).
10. Plate No. 56B, South Dakota School of Mines Bulletin 13,
November 1920.
11. Keith Crew, Interior, South Dakota; from a postcard mailed June
5, 1909.
12. Leonel Jensen, Wall, South Dakota (fall 1908; Louis J. Jensen
family).
13. Leslie Crew, Interior, South Dakota; from a postcard mailed
December 19, 1908.
14. Rise Studio, Rapid City, South Dakota.
15. Black Hills Studios, Inc., Spearfish, South Dakota.
16. DINPS.
17. DINPS.
18. DINPS (December 6, 1964).
19. DINPS (1938).
20. DINPS (about 1934).
21. DINPS (June 1941).
22. DINPS (June 7, 1950).
23. DINPS.
24. DINPS (spring 1964).
25. DINPS (August 1960).
26. DINPS (September 16, 1959).
27. DINPS (summer 1962).
28. DINPS (July 1962).
29. DINPS (January 9, 1964).
30. DINPS (January 25, 1964).

The Badlands Natural History Association wishes to extend its

sincere thanks to these individuals and organizations for granting the
association permission to use the illustrations.

71
 APPENDIX D
Footnotes and References
All references used in compiling this history are on hand in the
Badlands National Monument library or files for further study. Where
actual reports, correspondence, or books were not available, copies
have been obtained from such sources as the National Archives,
Library of Congress, National Park Service, and various public and
university libraries.

For the sake of simplicity, the following abbreviation has been used
where appropriate:

PNC—copies of items from the Peter Norbeck Collections,

University of South Dakota, Vermillion, which pertain to the
establishment of Badlands National Monument are in a bound
volume in the national monument library.

[1]
Dee C. Taylor, Salvage Archeology in Badlands National
Monument, South Dakota (Missoula: Montana State
University, 1961), pp. 79, 80.

[2]
Ibid., p. 75.

[3]
Ibid., p. 80.

[4]
Herbert S. Schell, History of South Dakota (Lincoln: University
of Nebraska Press, 1961), p. 16.
[5]
Ibid., pp. 17-23.

[6]
Ibid., pp. 24-36.

[7]
Lt. G.K. Warren, Preliminary Report of Explorations in
Nebraska and Dakota in the Years 1855-’56-’57
(Washington: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1875), p. 26; J.R.
Macdonald, “The History and Exploration of the Big Badlands of
South Dakota,” Guide Book Fifth Field Conference of the
Society of Vertebrate Paleontology in Western South
Dakota, ed. James D. Bump (Sponsored by the Museum of
Geology of the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology,
Rapid City, August 29-September 1, 1951), p. 31.

[8]
Hiram M. Chittenden, and Alfred T. Richardson, eds., Life, Letters
and Travels of Father Pierre-Jean De Smet. S.J., 1801-
1873 (New York: Francis P. Harper, 1905), vol. 2, pp. 622, 623.

[9]
Charles L. Camp, ed., James Clyman American Frontiersman
1792-1881 (Cleveland: The Arthur H. Clark Company, 1928), p.
24.

Note: Dale Morgan was of the opinion that the jornada which
Clyman describes was through country south of the White River,
and that Smith’s party by-passed almost entirely that portion of
the South Dakota Badlands now set apart as a national
monument [Dale L. Morgan, Jedediah Smith and the
Opening of the West (Indianapolis: The Bobbs-Merrill
Company, Inc., 1953), p. 386, f.n. 10]. Just a year later, however,
Morgan published new evidence found in the Gibbs map to back
up the opposite interpretation of Clyman’s journals. He now
believes that the Smith party followed the White River
 exclusively, keeping to the north bank all the way to possibly
near the mouth of Willow Creek, located east and a little south
from the present town of Hot Springs, South Dakota. This means
the party would have at least seen, and perhaps passed through
the present Badlands National Monument. [Dale L. Morgan and
Carl I. Wheat, Jedediah Smith and his Maps of the
American West (California Historical Society, 1954), p. 49.]

[10]
Reuben G. Thwaites, ed., Travels in the Interior of North
America by Maximilian, Prince of Wied (Cleveland: The A.H.
Clark Company, 1906), vol. 3, p. 90.

[11]
Chittenden and Richardson, op. cit., p. 624.

[12]
Ibid., pp. 624, 625.

[13]
Cleophas C. O’Harra, The White River Badlands (Rapid City:
South Dakota School of Mines, Bulletin No. 13, Department of
Geology, November 1920), pp. 123, 128.

[14]
John Francis McDermott, ed., Journal of an Expedition to the
Mauvaises Terres and the Upper Missouri in 1850,
Smithsonian Institution, Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin
147 (Washington: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1952), p. 1.
72
[15]
Macdonald, op. cit., p. 31; American Journal of Science,
vol. 3, no. 7, 2d series, January 1847, pp. 248-250; O’Harra, op.
cit., pp. 23, 24, 110-117, 161.

[16]
McDermott, op. cit., p. 1.
[17]
Ibid.

[18]
Ibid., p. 2; Macdonald, op. cit., p. 31.

[19]
E. de Girardin, “A Trip to the Bad Lands in 1849,” South Dakota
Historical Review, I (January 1936), 60.

[20]
Ibid., p. 62.

[21]
Ibid.

[22]
Ibid., pp. 64, 65.

[23]
David Dale Owen, Report of a Geological Survey of
Wisconsin, Iowa, and Minnesota; and Incidentally of a
Portion of Nebraska Territory (Philadelphia: Lippincott,
Grambo, and Co., 1852), pp. 196, 197.

[24]
Ibid., pp. 197, 198.

[25]
Ibid., pp. 198-206, 539-572.

[26]
McDermott, op. cit., pp. 2, 3, 54, 55, 59.

[27]
Ibid., pp. 60, 61.
[28]
Ibid., p. 65.

[29]
Ibid., p. 64.

[30]
Ibid., pp. 3, 4.

[31]
Ibid., p. 2.

[32]
Lt. G.K. Warren, “Explorations in the Dacota Country in the Year
1855,” Senate Ex. Doc. No. 76, 34th Congress, 1st Session
(Washington: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1956), p. 76.

[33]
Ibid., pp. 66-76.

[34]
Letter, Will G. Robinson, Secretary, South Dakota State Historical
Society, to John W. Stockert, September 26, 1967; South Dakota
Historical Society, South Dakota Department of History
Report and Historical Collections (Pierre, S.D.: State
Publishing Company, 1962), vol. XXXI, p. 280.

[35]
Warren, op. cit., p. 76.

[36]
Ibid., p. 74.

[37]
O’Harra, op. cit., pp. 24, 161-163.
[38]
Ray H. Mattison, ed., “The Harney Expedition Against the Sioux:
The Journal of Captain John B.S. Todd,” Nebraska History,
XLIII (June 1962), 92, 130.

[39]
Ibid., p. 122.

[40]
Ibid.

[41]
O’Harra, op. cit., p. 25.

[42]
Charles Schuchert, and Clara Mae LeVene, O.C. Marsh, Pioneer
in Paleontology (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1940), pp.
139-168; U.S. National Park Service, Soldier and Brave (New
York: Harper and Row, 1963), pp. 135, 136.

[43]
O’Harra, op. cit., p. 26.

[44]
Macdonald, op. cit., p. 32.

[45]
O’Harra, op. cit., p. 29.

[46]
Macdonald, op. cit., p. 33.

[47]
Louis Knoles, Forest Ranger, “A Report on the Bad Lands of South
Dakota,” 1919, pp. 20, 21.