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Figurine Painter Magazine Numéro 28

The document features a review of Savaged Forged Mini’s products, highlighting their high-quality natural earth pigments popular among model makers for realistic finishes. It also pays tribute to the late Shepherd Paine, a significant figure in the miniature painting community, and includes various articles and tutorials related to miniature painting. Additionally, it showcases interviews and insights from renowned painters like Danilo Cartacci, discussing their techniques and collaborations.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
121 views116 pages

Figurine Painter Magazine Numéro 28

The document features a review of Savaged Forged Mini’s products, highlighting their high-quality natural earth pigments popular among model makers for realistic finishes. It also pays tribute to the late Shepherd Paine, a significant figure in the miniature painting community, and includes various articles and tutorials related to miniature painting. Additionally, it showcases interviews and insights from renowned painters like Danilo Cartacci, discussing their techniques and collaborations.

Uploaded by

PTB
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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July/Aug 2015

#28 REVIEWS FROM


Savaged Forged Mini’s
£1.30
ISSN 2052-8507 Aradia Miniatures
Demented Games

with Danilo Cartacci

www.figurepaintermagazine.co.uk
Our pigments are finely ground Natural Earth Pigments and of the highest quality. Over recent
years, earth pigments have become extremely popular with model makers who wish to achieve
realistic and authentic looking finishes, especially with military and railway enthusiasts where a
weathered look is far more desirable. The pigments are commonly mixed with thinners to create
a paste or mixed with acrylic resins or varnish and glues to replicate urban, rural, industrial or
warfare surface conditions like: dust, dirt, mud, rust or surfaces that are in state of damage or
disrepair.
www.modeldisplayproducts.com
Available in ProPigment sets or individual pots.

Our pigments are not sold for cosmetic,


pharmaceutical or food use.
Use care when handling any dry pigment.
Avoid inhaling pigment dust.
Contact Figure Painter Magazine
Web www.figurepaintermagazine.co.uk
Email [email protected]

Cover Artist: Danilo Cartacci

Chief Editor: Shane Rozzell


[email protected]

Content Editor: Marko Paunovic


[email protected]

Features Editor: Terry Cowell


[email protected]
Sheperd Paine 1946 - 2015
Market Place Editor: Martyn Dorey
[email protected]
This month, the miniature painting world lost a true giant with the passing of
Review Editor: Marta Ślusarska
Sheperd Paine. Born in Berlin in 1946 then moving to America in 1949, he was
[email protected] actively painting between 1968 and 1998 and is considered by many as the
father of this hobby we all love. Shep wrote several books on the subject and
Media Relations: Luke Wilson had his pieces shown all over the world in museums and some of his pieces
[email protected] have been collected by the rich and famous.
Advertising: Sarah Evans
[email protected]
Shep is also credited with creating the open judging system used at many of
the popular painting comps around the world, because he saw some unfair-
Proof Readers: Martyn Dorey ness and wanted to see everyone rewarded for their hard efforts.
Sean Fulton

Reading his books got me hooked on modelling and I was very honoured
Regular Contributors:
when he agreed to do the Insight interview back in issue 12. It was a great
Sean Fulton Terry Cowell
thrill to read his thoughts on the hobby and show some of his most iconic
Marta Ślusarska Martyn Dorey
pieces. I would just like to thank him for getting me hooked on this fantastic
Davide Rainone Marko Paunovic
hobby and all the FPM team send their best wishes to his friends and family.
Ana Polanšćak Luke Wilson
Andrija Jurisic

Guest Contributors: Shoshie


Jen Kaufman
Figure Painter Magazine is published by
Fernando Ruiz Robot Pigeon Publishing. South Cheshire. UK Follow us on Social Media
Justin McCoy
Thor Intararangson

The views and opinions relating to all material herein does not necessarily reflect the opinions of Figure Painter Magazine staff, editors or publishers who
are not liable of said opinions. Figure Painter Magazine cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies in any of its publications. Furthermore, responsibility
for any losses, damages or distress resulting from adherence to any information made available through this magazine or its website is not the responsi-
bility of Figure Painter Magazine or its publisher, Robot Pigeon Publishing. Adverts and advertisers appearing in Figure Painter Magazine carry no implied
recommendation from the magazine or the publishers. Artwork has also been either taken from company websites pertaining to the image and may not
be reproduced (except for personal use) without prior written permission from the said author / artist. Most product names are trademarks owned by the
companies that publish those products. Photos sent to Figure Painter Magazine will be treated as offered unconditionally for publication and copyright
purposes and are subject to editing and comments by the editors. Please ensure that all photos have credits attached if necessary. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced without prior consent from Figure Painter Magazine.
: : CONTENTS

CONT
Market Place & Unboxing
Unboxing Savage Forged Mini’s

by Marko Paunovic...Page 8

What’s on the Market: Create and Shape

by Shane Rozzell...Page 46

Unboxing Aradia’s Mawhi

by Marta Slusarska...Page 56

Unboxing Demented Games Miniatures

Group review...Page 88

Showcase Pages
Insight with Danilo Cartacci...Page 10

Exposé...Page 32

Putty & Paint...Page 60

Best of British: Luke Wilson...Page 98

Exhibition...Page 113
CONTENTS : :

TENTS
Features & Tutorials
Spotlight on Il Basetta

by Davide Raine...Page 28

Tutorial: Remora Pt 1

by Justin McCoy...Page 36

Small Victories

by Jen Kaufman...Page 44

Malifaux Gaming Table Part 28

by Marko Paunovic...Page 50

Hospitaller Knight

by Fernando Ruiz...Page 66

Building & Painting a Ruined Marble Column Base

by Thor Intararangson...Page 90

Event Reports
Iron Painter 2015

by Marko Paunovic...Page 22

Gen Con 2015

by Shoshie...Page 944
Those really nice people over at Scale75 are holding a
summer sale. They have some great deals on paints and
miniatures from all across their ranges. With up to 20%
off on their bigger deals, it’s the perfect time to go grab
a bargain. Click on the banner above to check out the
offers. J
6
7
Details
Price: €35
Scale: 1/10th
Material: Resin

Available from

Savage Forged Minis

This month, I had the privilege of


holding two Savage Forged Minis busts
in my hand and I thought I’d make the
most of it and review them both. Savage
8

Forged Minis is a relatively new company run by


Mr. Dennis Zarnowski, a talented sculptor. The
two busts were some of the prizes that Dennis
was kind enough to sponsor at this year’s
Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting
Competition held in Zagreb, Croatia.

Savaged Forged Minis: Carlos & Fantasy Bust


Carlos

Carlos is a 4 piece, 1/10 scale bust There is no excess material nor


that comes with a resin round plinth mouldlines present and the whole
mount. However, to fix it you will still piece will require minimal prepara-
need a rod or a tube. The mini itself tion. The hat fits the head snugly
consists of the bust, hat, plume and and the only bit requiring some
part of a sword in the sheath. extra work is removing a leftover air
vent material on the inside of the
The bust is 45 mm tall without the plume.
hat and the plume. The head is
20mm tall – which fits the 1/10 scale Overall, this is an excellent bust with
and is highly detailed. The earrings, loads of character. Definitely worth
moustache and hair have been the 35€ price tag!
wonderfully crafted without a single
mistake. The leather belt has dam-
age modelled on it, while the eyes
and facial features provide ample
room for creative painting. The skin
has that battle worn appearance.
9
Details
Price: €35
Scale: 1/10th
Material: Resin

Available from

Savage Forged Minis

Fantasy Bust

The Fantasy Bust is a one skin on his facial features.


piece, 1/10 scale bust of a me-
dieval barbarian with a nicely Being a one piece cast there is
trimmed moustache that give no assembly needed, so the fi-
the bust a fantasy-like, almost nal result of the casting process
magical appearance. also doesn’t leave much work
before priming. Mouldlines are
The whole bust, about 7cm next to non-existent and there
high, has some interesting is no excess material left over
features and loads of differ- from casting.
ent surfaces to practice your
brushwork. Rough fur is present Overall, this bust will provide
on the helmet and the cloak, the painter ample opportunity
leather belts and metal parts to play with different surfaces
are seen on the gut plate and and show their skill and is defi-
the helmet, as well as a cool nitely worth the 35€, especially
contrast between the smooth when you consider no extra
skin on the torso and the rough taxes and no shipping fees.
Qu
es
t io
ns
by
Da
v id

with Danilo Cartacci


e
Ra
ino
ne

Place of origin? I live and work in Rome (Italy), where


I was born. I am happily married to Angelina for 17
years and we have three beautiful daughters.

Years of painting? Drawing and painting always have


been my passion and I painted my first miniature
when I was around 13. Painting miniatures has been
my profession for almost 25 years.
10

Major awards? Best of Show in two World Expos


(Boston and Girona), Best of Historical at the recent
World Expo in Stresa, the Best of Show at the last
edition of Euromilitaire in Folkestone. I have been
nominated World Master in World Expo in Montreaux.
To these I can add many other BoS and gold medals
in any great show in our little, great world.

Future plans? Always keep high the passion I put into


my job, never stop getting better and share all of this
with other passionate painters.

This month I would like to introduce you to a historical


painter from Italy, but one known all over the world. He
is a true collector of gold medals and Best of Show
awards; someone that I think everyone—historical,
fantasy and sci-fi painters alike—has at some point
been in awe of his painted miniatures. Yet, despite
his high artistic profile and his busy agenda, he is a
humble man and is always available to talk about
painting miniatures, his lifelong deep passion. This
is Danilo Cartacci!
In your career, you are
proud of a striking number
of box art paint jobs done
for various famous brands,
which are leaders in the sector
(Pegaso Models, for example). Can
you explain to us some of your
history and experiences you have
had over the years?

I realised my first box art for Pegaso


Models in 1998, maybe first a
couple of them for Soldier… my
relationship with these companies
is that we grew up together! It was a
strenuous experience, but exciting
at the same time. The effort consists
of deadlines, often very tight;
therefore, I have very little time at
my disposal and the companies
ask me for the best quality in the
shortest amount of time.

Mine is the last step in the line

11
of production, after planning,
sculpting and moulding and casting.
I also take care of the product
photographs, because I think no
one but the painter who did the
job can know how to set the lights
and frame the piece at its best. In
my opinion, the most beautiful
aspect is to be the first to paint the
model, often collaborating during
the planning or choice of subjects
phase. This allows me to get an
impression of the miniature and
how I will paint the box art, with the
objective to best emphasise the ‘’Lettere dal Sudan’’ 54mm sculptor Fernando Volpe, Gold Valley Forge
work done by the sculptor and to
give it life and atmosphere using
colours. It is a big responsibility! particular medium—oils or acrylics minimum amount of effort. The
or enamels. My starting point balance on a miniature is not given
It is possible to watch some had been with oil colours, but by the medium you use, but by the
of your YouTube videos or my curiosity pushed me to also composition of colours and the kind
read the book you wrote try acrylics and enamels. With of contrast, lights and shadows, you
some years ago. You are time, I realised that I preferred give to it. In the end, the idea is to
used to painting your models with a to paint some parts with one test everything and use what you
variety of oils, acrylics and enamel type of medium and others with find more suitable for you.
mediums. Can you tell us how do another and having fun obtaining
you balance so many techniques different finishes on the basis
and different paints in order to paint that the material to portray was
a single miniature? matte, satin or gloss. This way I
learned to use each technique in
When I started in the professional an interchangeable way, choosing
world, I understood that everyone each time the technique I think it
was specialising himself in one gives me the best result with the
‘’The King’s Death’’ 54mm sculptor Maurizio Bruno,
Best Historical World Expo Stresa – Best of Show
Euromilitaire
12
You are famous for a Indian mutiny, the dioramas ‘Quatre devotes their best abilities. Working
number of collaborations Brass’, ‘Too late’ and ‘Ambush’. in a team is very stimulating; in my
with other famous opinion, it pushes you to give your
modellers, such as Maurizio While I was painting box art, I met best, thanks to the comparison and
Bruno, Mariano Numitone and Maurizio and from there the step the exchange of ideas this kind of
Piersergio Allevi, to name a to painting unique models has cooperation involves. We discuss
few. How do you define this kind been a short one. With him as well, the sculpture’s composition, as well
of relationship and how much I undertook exciting projects that as which colours to use, particularly
satisfaction do you get from them? brought us each time to seek the when we work on a diorama. I
best quality, until arriving to the believe that working with others
My first collaboration was with recent series about the Thirty Years is the best way to face the most
Giovanni Azzarà; at that time War and the diorama “The King’s complex projects, especially in
no one else was realising four Death”. scenes where many figures interact
handed works, except the Cannone with each other.
brothers. I still remember the With Piersergio and his beautiful
emotion of finishing a display about mounted Napoleonic subjects, Over the years, the satisfaction
the English Civil War that won the came a series named ‘I Volti and the objectives achieved
Best of Show in the Saint Vincent del Commando (The Faces of have been many. However, the
contest. Command) dedicated to all the most beautiful aspect is to see in
main personalities of that period. I retrospect how much my painting
Later came the work with Mariano, believe I have collaborated with and their sculpting abilities have
with whom I realised a series of all the greatest Italian sculptors at grown. This is the best thing doing
beautiful miniatures. We tried to go least once! a collaboration can give you.
beyond our limits each time facing

13
subjects more and more complex; Each time a new artistic
for example, the series about the collaboration is created, everybody

‘’Drummer 1st Reg. Foot Guards, Crimea 1854’’ ‘’Eagle Dancer’’


75mm sculptor Antonio Meseguer 75mm box art for Meridiana
from the fact I paint full time and I
always want to keep the passion
high in what I do, so I like to vary
the subjects.

Each historical period requires a


certain style; you cannot portray
a Napoleonic figure in the same
way as a Confederate soldier. This
allows me to have practice with
different atmospheres and lets
me involve myself, each time, in a
totally new artistic experience.

If you would like to know which


ones are my favourites, I can tell
you that my first love has been
medieval and samurai subjects
because of the colours, heraldry
and the many types of weapons
used. With time I learned to love
the Napoleonic miniatures, because
their elegance; the look of a little
jewel they have once finished.
14

The Scottish in every period are


among my favourites because their
atmosphere, but more generally I
found out each historical period has
his own charm. Is there is a subject
I cannot say no to? Mmmmm…a well
sculpted bust.

The current panorama in


figure painting world, both
Italian and European, has
changed during the last few
years. What is your opinion about
the current relationship between
historical and fantasy painters?

‘’Arciere Mongolo’’ box art Pegaso Models I think that historical and fantasy
subjects can be very stimulating
for each other. I acknowledge both
Box arts, unique models, a subject that is born from an trends with equal dignity, even if
modified miniatures, idea, an inspiration, or some each requires a different approach.
models straight from the historical research; there is more
box, dioramas… you have engagement. In any case, I want This means, in my opinion, it is
painted pretty much everything, each miniature of mine to be impossible to compare them in a
but is there a kind of miniature you ‘unique’, so I very rarely paint a contest or to assert one is better
prefer more than the others and is miniature from the box twice; if I do, than the other one or to say there is
there is a certain kind of subject you it is only because I can change the more art in one than the other.
cannot say no to? colour scheme I used the first time.
With historical models the research
Among the categories you said, As you said, I have painted is particularly important and we
the most stimulating for me is every kind of miniature and the often use academics of a particular
the unique piece. It is because diversification of subjects, from period to help, so it’s more than
I have the chance to work on scale to historical period is born just a comparison of techniques or
subject matter. That ‘’Gicarilla Apache’’ bust 200mm,
is not to say one is box art SK miniatures, Gold in
more valid than the Folkestone, Euromilitaire
other. The meeting
between the two
worlds is, after all,
very recent; maybe
for this reason there
is still a little bit of
suspicion on both
sides.

15
‘’Kato Kyomasa’’ 90mm Best Medieval
in Monte San Savino Show
16
You have great experience
in the international
field because the many
international contests you
have taken part in. What’s your
opinion on the contributions and the
balances at the international level?

When I embarked in this world


of miniature painting, the nations
which provided the greatest artists
were England, France and the
United States. Years later, Italy and
Spain have created a new wave that
saw the birth of new, higher level
companies, sculptors and painters.
Once the internet came, it linked us
with almost every part of the globe.
Never could I have imagined this
hobby, which looks so sedentary,
would enable me to travel all
around the world or have friends
from so many different nations.

17
Over the years, I saw wonderful
collaborations between each,
despite which nation they come
from. I am proud Italy conducted a
central role into the international
panorama; our country’s typical
creativity recently has bloomed and
a large quantity of pictorial styles ‘’Obi-Wan Kenobi’’ box art Knight Models
and an extraordinary high level of
sculpting with great personality. We
are at the point where it is possible As I was saying, I consider it very time I suggested to a youngster to
to realize who the author is just only stimulating to see such master’s try painting, I find out with pleasure
seeing the miniatures. works and when I have the that he prefers painting instead
opportunity I find it refreshing video games! Ours is a world that
You are a renowned to dedicate myself to a fantasy not many know of; we…everyone…
master in historical field… miniature. As an example, do you should invest time meeting the new
but, tell me if I am wrong, I remember my “Obi-Wan Kenobi” generations.
remember a few attempts box art for Knight Models?
at models with a more free spirit, If I can give any advice that could
almost fantasy…what do you think Less young people push someone who paints only
about the other face of our hobby are joining the ranks fantasy to try the historical it is this:
(even though, for you, it’s a full-time of historical miniature start with a subject that fascinates
job)? painting. In your opinion, you because of the colours or the
what are the reasons and is there atmosphere it instils in you and
Yes…you remember well and I something you want to tell them, a then go discover the true history
confess you will see more in the call perhaps, to get more of them behind it. Very often, people remain
future! I am a passionate fantasy interested in the historical branch of astonished when they understand
book reader: Tolkien, Lewis, Brooks, painting models? that reality overcomes imagination!
etc, as well as among my favourite Don’t let the historical research that
films are “The Lord of the Rings” I believe we should not discourage this kind of miniature requires scare
saga, Star Wars, etc. ourselves. In my experience, each you away. Let some expert help you.
18

‘’The Black Watch at Quatrebrass


1815’’ 54mm sculptor Mariano
Numitone, Best of Show Athens
‘’Ottavio Piccolomini’’ Best of
Show Monreale 54mm sculptor
Maurizio Bruno

19
‘’Light!’’ bust 200mm, Gold Montreaux World Expo
20
Your long career is
sprinkled with successes,
but is there one specific
moment that you remember
more fondly than the rest?

The first time I won a gold medal


in Folkestone; when it happened
it was an epic moment for me. I
had always seen that contest as an
unreachable thing! Also, the Best
of Show in Boston World Expo that
I won under the fireworks on the
4th of July has been unforgettable.
However, the most beautiful
experiences are the most ordinary
indeed: to meet people that speak
a different language from yours,
but to be able to understand each
other talking about techniques and
colours, to visit new places and to
discover each time that the world is
full of art and beauty.

21
Is there a miniature you’ve
painted that you consider
your favourite or you are
particularly bound to?

Each diorama and the unique


models series I painted over all
these years were all hard and
exciting to paint, but among the
single miniatures, I’d tell you
the bust “Light” where I tested
some particular light effects and
backlights or “Markos Botsaris”
which required to me to use very
complex techniques.
’’Marcos Botsaris’’ 75mm, BOS Valencia
What you are working on
right now?
exchanging ideas to everyone’s I’d like to say a big thank you to
I have a lot of works in betterment; a place where I share Danilo Cartacci for being a guest in
progress and each one is very my experience and knowledge with our pages and for finding the time
beautiful and complex. There are my students. This is possible with to do this interview amongst all the
at least 3 or 4 dioramas under classes, a web site, the book of paint works on his workbench at
construction; an exhibit for a techniques “Dipingere in Miniature” the moment and during the finishing
museum and the work for the next I published in four languages touches of his pieces for the
World Expo has already began. some years ago. I have also new Kulmbach show and Euromilitaire.
initiatives that are currently ‘under
The goal for the near future is construction’! It was a great pleasure to talk to
to contribute and help our little him. J
world grow, committing myself to
teaching. This is the reason I built a
‘bottega’ (a workshop). It is a place
for meeting new and old artists;
A Look Back at
by

What have I been doing since April? After reading this, you might week to rest (while the judges to
Well, apart from finishing (or trying wonder what kind of themes are rate your entry) and then it begins
to) the Malifaux gaming board, I’ve given. In both renditions of the Iron all over again with another theme.
taken part in the Iron Painter 2015 Painter that I’ve taken part, the MC Keep doing it for 5 or 6 rounds,
contest held on the Wyrd forums. of the contest (Pete Blum in 2012 always keeping up the standard
This was my second Iron Painter and James Gilstrap in 2015) gave of painting technique and trying to
that I’ve taken part in. The first was various themes: Start Your Engines, guess what the judges think the
in 2012, where I got knocked out The Next Step, Only Three Colours, theme should be.
in Round 4 by a former Iron Painter Forbidden, It’s Alive, Last One
22

winner and one of the finalists that Standing, Fool’s Gold, The End of Actually, that might be the biggest
year, Bexley. the World as We Know It, Something difficulty in this competition--
Wicked This Way Comes, Made in guessing what the judges like and/
What is Iron Painter and how Japan and Space Oddity. or want. After a couple of rounds, if
does it work? Iron Painter is a you’re lucky enough to still be in it,
painting competition where all the To get the feel of the competition you might start to understand what
contestants are paired together (now that you know the themes that the judges like, but you will need to
and then pitted against each other. were given), just take one and try to go through a lot of entries and see
They have two weeks to finish think of a good entry and imagine how they scored with each of the
an entry on a given theme and what would it feels like to have two judges.
upload a photo (or a photo collage) weeks to produce an entry. When
whereupon they are judged by a you’re done, you give yourself a
panel of 3 judges in the following
categories: Theme (1-5), Technique
(1-5) and Overall (1-10). Each entry
can score up to a maximum of 60
points as the scores from the judges
are added together. The entry with
the higher score from the pairing
goes through to the next round; and
so it goes until there is only one
winner – the Iron Painter.

I love this concept as it is probably


the hardest painting contest out
there, because you really need to
be focused on the competition for
about three months. The contest,
if you truly wish to do the best you
can, leaves you hardly any spare
time at all. Only the best and the
most dedicated painters will see
this contest through. by Jessica Rich
Those are the difficulties, so what makes me like Iron friendly and will gladly give advice even in rounds where
Painter? Mostly, it’s the crowd and painters gathered you are pitted against each other. Because of the Iron
around this competition. As it’s forum based, you get a Painter, I’ve had the privilege of chatting with Liliana Troy
lot (and I do mean a LOT!) of banter and smack talking, (pewtermonkey) of Hangar 18 Miniatures, James Griffiths
usually in a friendly fashion. There are always those (lono) of Infamy Miniatures, Jessica Rich (brushmistress)
that think they have been cheated somehow during the and as of recently Curtis Shoemake (omnicarbivore), the
judging – but those are easily ignored, as I find them current Iron Painter.
pathetic and pitiful. However, most of the crowds are

23
by Liliana Troy

by Bexley

by James Griffiths by Bexley


James Gilstrap, Iron Painter Master of Ceremony

The Iron Painter originally painters and creative, but not so technically superior,
came about because I thought hobbyists. Being able to interpret and incorporate the
it would be a fun community theme into the entry is vital in surviving each round. It is
activity for the Wyrd Forums. not uncommon for a less technical painter to advance
because they rocked the theme.
The contest was well received
by the forum goers and Of course, those same things that make the IP so
contestants and it wasn’t long interesting also create challenges for running it. Having
after the first one that folks were asking for a second lots of entries is great, but that slows down the judging
one. I’ve been the MC for all but one and have really process and increases the compilation and tallying of
enjoyed my time doing so. There are still surprises the votes. Those are not good things if you are trying to
and challenges, but I guess that’s what makes it so keep it all rolling forward on a regular schedule. Plus,
rewarding. For instance, round one of the latest contest the length of the overall contest just increases the odds
had over 150 entries, completely doubling the size of that something will go wrong. That is where I feel the
the previous largest round. pressure to do my best. Issues always arise, but my goal
has always been to always go for fairness.
I think there are several things that make the Iron
Painter a unique mini painter contest. First of all being Keeping the contest moving has its challenges, but it
the gruelling time constraints. If successful, a painter is always worth it. At least a few times each round, I’ll
would have to come up with a unique entry, every two look at an entry and just be blown away. The talent and
weeks, for five rounds. As one entrant put it, ‘it’s like a creativity of the contestants never cease to amaze me.
24

marathon, filled with sprints’. The thing that keeps me wanting to come back and MC
the event is the same reason it all started in the first
Another aspect, and probably my favourite, is the place. It’s still an amazingly fun community activity and
‘theme’. It’s the theme that helps equalize fantastic as long as it continues to be so, I’ll try to be there.

I entered the first Iron Painter Overall in this Iron Painter, when the
because it seemed like a nice way scores of each round were added,
to find out how good (or indeed I managed to get shared 5th place.
bad) I am compared to many Again, I was pleasantly surprised
painters worldwide. Coming from and really proud of my work.
a small country like Croatia, there
is not a lot of opportunity for me The fact that will keep me entering
to rate my work against painters the Iron Painter is the fact that until
of other nationalities, so I took the theme of the next round is
the opportunity and was pleased revealed, you have absolutely no
beyond any measure. Coming up idea what you will be doing for the
to the last 8 in my first Iron Painter next two weeks; absolutely none.
(there were 148 entrants) and going If someone told me in 2011 that
out in that round with the second or I would be doing a stoned Rasta
third highest score of the round as in his room a week before I did
I was unfortunately pitted against the scene from Romeo and Juliet,
the highest scorer of the round, and then doing the last stand from
Bexley. I was truly proud of my the movie 300 or hanging Nathan
accomplishment. The next edition Caroland, one of the judges and the
of Iron Painter was organised 3 boss of Wyrd miniatures, I’d have
years later with a whopping 228 said they were out of their mind!
applicants. This time I got knocked
out in the penultimate round by the
future winner, Curtis Shoemake.
25
What does it take to make it in
Iron Painter? Well, I can tell you
what it takes to enter all the
rounds; perseverance (and a bit of
masochism). Over the years, the
painters who got knocked out at
earlier stages made a sort of a side
competition in the I Think I Can
(ITIC) category. They submit their
entries and are also scored by the the yellowy light on the dwarf. showing how the entry really looks
judges, even though they are out. The photo I took was in complete like (as opposed to the picture
I’m proud to say, I’ve finished all 11 darkness apart from the LED submitted to the competition).
rounds in the last two Iron Painters. showing. This is the first time I’m
When the competition is done, you
really feel proud you hung in there.

There are some pointers I can give


you if you wish to enter the next
Iron Painter.

First and most important, it’s ALL


about the picture you submit. Even
a lousy paint-job can be (somewhat)
covered and camouflaged by a
good photo! For instance, in this
year’s first round (theme: Fool’s
Gold) I submitted a dwarf hunting
for a treasure with a dragon looming
over him. However, I placed an
LED inside the treasure shining
Second, play to your own strengths.
I’m not such a good painter. I’m
aware of it and I do not kid myself
otherwise. I do try, but I do know my
limits, too (although I constantly try
pushing them). What I do know is
that my terrain building skills are very
much above the average. When the
opportunity arose in round three of
this year (theme: Something Wicked
This Way Comes), I decided to paint
an undead hooker in an alley corner
coming for the viewer. I scratch built
the entire scene. First, I drew the
scene and the walls/parts I needed
to manufacture the base. Then, I
copied it on to transparent plastic foil
and made the walls of the mould out
of balsa wood and cast the pieces
in plaster. I added a battery housing
and made the wires go through the
walls to end in an LED inside a lamp
post.
26

Third, when all else fails, go for


scandal. As I mentioned previously,
in round two this year I hung the
boss of Wyrd miniatures. The
theme was The End of the World
as We Know It. I asked myself who
‘we’ are? Viewers? Judges? The
miniatures in my entry? I decided to
combine them all into a single ‘we’.
Nathan was the judge, viewer and
(fortunately for me) Wyrd has made
a miniature of Nathan.
However, when you combine everything, you still need didn’t hit it with the third judge and Curtis went through
one other element--luck. First, you need luck in the draw to the final…and deservedly so.
of your opponent. Second, you need luck so maybe
your opponent doesn’t have a good fortnight (or a good After the dust has settled on yet another Iron Painter,
idea). Third, you need luck so your take on the theme what have I learned? I need more practice working with
fits better with the judges’ opinion than your opponent’s my camera as apart from round 1, I’m not that pleased
does. And sometimes, just sometimes, you might with the results of my photos. Second, I really should
manage an upset and knock out a big name. I almost work on my brushwork, take my time and practice,
succeeded with my Made in Japan entry. Two of the practice, practice. With this, I bid you farewell until the
three judges thought my entry was better. However, I just next Iron Painter...

Curtis Shoemake, Iron


Painter 2015 winner

This was my first time


entering this competition.
I had been aware of it for
several years, but never
had the time or money to
dedicate to it. When I heard
it was coming back I had

27
to give it a shot, even though I was expecting to go
out in the first round. You can imagine my surprise as I
managed to progress through each round. To not only
be getting by, but also constantly being in the top 3
was insane for me. This contest was very intense as
far as time management went. I work a 60-70 hour a
week job, so I was mostly limited to painting on the
weekends. On any of my entries, I only managed to log
about 4 days worth of work.

Between the crazy deadlines and the random subject


material given by the themes, it was unlike any contest
I’ve ever competed in. At times it was extremely
frustrating. I almost didn’t make the deadline a couple
times and I always felt like I wish I could have done
more at the end of each round, but it also helped me
develop my skills considerably. By making me paint
things outside of my comfort zone and on a tight
schedule, I got to practice both speed painting and
improving on my basic techniques and despite the
drama that started to develop at the end of the contest,
most of the people I met were incredibly friendly. Even
in the finals, my opponents were great to talk to.

Then, of course, winning at the end--I couldn’t believe


it. It’s one of the biggest achievements I’ve ever
experienced since I started painting; to go into a
contest that long and come out on top is an amazing
feeling.

All in all, my first experience with Iron Painter was pretty


great. I had so much fun with everything and I can’t wait I’d like to take this opportunity to thank James and Curtis
for the next one to come around. for being kind enough to provide me with their take on
the IP.
Contact
Web: www.ilbasetta.it
Email: [email protected]
28

We’re always debating about are all works made by a true Italian steps into this modelling world, but
miniatures, scale, or material; what artisan who is very famous and I was not aware of knowing him
is the best brand or sculpting greatly appreciated in my country, at that time, even if I was always
materials. What is the best primer, Franco Serra aka ‘Il Basetta’. looking at his bases and plinths.
brush or airbrush, etc, etc... Looking at great miniatures, I always
sometimes, however, we lose sight I know him from my first fumbling appreciated the composition,
of the common factor that links
all our work – no matter the scale
or genre, be it single miniature
or diorama, there is something
underestimated that can really
give to our hard work that touch
of class it deserves. That is a good
display base or plinth that creates a
fitting ambiance which helps show
off the models to their best ability.
Like a frame for a canvas, it holds
everything together, literally and
figuratively. You wouldn’t want to fix
your latest and greatest creation on
any old scrap of wood – would you?

This is why I would like to introduce


you to an Italian company who
produce, in my opinion, some of
the most beautiful wooden bases
you can find on the market. These
painting, ambiance…everything;
but only until recently did I realise
the thing that was giving them that
extra touch of elegance was their
wooden bases.

Later, when I starting to paint more


seriously, I decided to improve the
look of my pieces as well as my
painting skills. For this reason, I
asked Franco Serra some advice
on how to pair to my next miniature
with a proper base. What can I say…
new doors opened in front of me
and now I cannot think of doing a
miniature without the fitting one of
Franco’s bases to hold it.

I will start by saying that I have the decorations and the types newest bases, but you have to be
nothing against other kind of bases; of wood very carefully chosen quick because these tend to sell
but personally, I prefer the warmer and processed. Even if a base is really quickly. You can also see
look I perceive from wooden ones. composed of more than one piece, them at lots of shows here in Italy
especially talking about strange and many other retailers sell them
My relationship with his company geometries or the ones originated too. In any case, if you buy some

29
began with Franco’s true kindness from roots or barks, Il Basetta from the off the web, your bases will
and competence. I always found always held steady, providing the arrive using a cheap, fast and safe
that whenever I needed something most compact and durable base shipping postal service. His bases
from him. Sometimes I have even you could get. are always individually packaged
modified my ideas because of a and protected in a well packaged
particular base he has made. You From the few pictures here, it’s box.
also have the opportunity to ask for possible to understand the quality
a customised base to help in the of his bases more than my words There is another way to get hold of
case of some out of the ordinary could ever tell and honestly it’s these beautiful bases, which is the
projects, or if you cannot find the only the tip of the iceberg. Their hardest way— by winning one at a
exact dimensions from the wide range is very broad without even model contests. Franco Serra likes
choice available and the wide considering the bases for sale in to support the hobby, especially the
number of different woods he works limited numbers and available only newer painters. This is further proof
with. In addition to more common for a short period of time. I suggest of how much loves his work and the
types of wood, such as walnut, you to have a look at his web site painting world.
olive, padouk, and wènge, you can or facebook page for many more
find some more peculiar ones like sample pictures and current stock. I managed to get a few words with
heather, elm or poplar, ebony, oak, Il Basetta’s Franco Serra because
various root woods, etc. You can very often consider each I was curious about his work and
base like a unique piece born from thought you, our readers, would find
The most beautiful bases are, in my a unique selection of wood. Take, this interesting as well.
opinion, are the special ones using for example, bases made from roots
selected woods. Look closer at
the Versailles, Fumè, Ash or Mapp
ranges to understand what these
or the ones with cracks filled with a
metal casting (the one I used for my
X-Man, Magneto…it was perfect for
1 Since you started making
display bases and plinths, what
has given you the most satisfaction?
very particular bases are. him). Think how cool it could be for
your miniature. I started accidentally 12 years ago.
The price varies depending
on the size, type of wood and Ordering from Il Basetta is very A modeller colleague of mine knew
any additional manufacturing easy. You can go to their website or about my passion for wood, so he
requirements, but what is always ask via email for something more asked to me to create a few bases.
guaranteed is the great high specific. You should also keep an They were so good and I did them
quality and finishing touches; eye on their facebook page for the so easily that I thought I could turn
Switzerland…but the requests
that impressed me the most came
from Israel and New Zealand,
unfortunately delivered without
success due the high shipping
costs.

There has been another person in


particular I met in Monte San Savino
show who gave me a good feeling
because his willingness, kindness
and spontaneity: John Rosengrant,
the ‘Avatar’s dad’ and many other
Hollywood characters. I must admit
the figure painter world has given
me many friendships.

2 What part of your job do you


love the most?

I like almost everything in my job,


that passion into a job. Then I met web site and I have met on the but what I love most is when, after
someone else who asked me for internet a lot of people; now some I have decided how to cut a certain
another one and so on…I started. of them are my dear friends. In wood, the base comes out exactly
30

the meantime, I collected other how I imagined. I get so excited and


In the beginning, it was hard getting accolades such as the Bill Horan’s it can sound a little bit selfish, but I
known by a large number of clients, Best of Category in World Expo in am used to producing bases that,
but I was presenting new essences, Montrouge upon a base of mine and above all, I must like first and then
new contours and I was the news in the same show the Kontraros/ if modellers like them too…well…
on the market! When I introduced Panagiotou’s Best Fantasy upon a double satisfaction. Another aspect
bases with natural cracks (because base of mine…and the rest is history. I love very much is looking for new
to create them artificially is not pieces to offer and when I find
possible) for the first time, many Nowadays, luckily for me, people them, I ravish!
called me crazy. know me in a good part of the world

The first base I did for a very


important project has been the one
and I have clients from Singapore,
Tokyo, Moscow, Germany,
France, Portugal, Spain, Sweden,
3 Where do you get your wood
and how do you choose them?

for the partnership of Numitone-


Cartacci for their beautiful and
famous diorama ‘Ambush’ which
won the Best of Show in World
Expo, Girona. I remember that
Mariano Numitone and I decided
the size during a phone call and
he gave me full discretion for the
kind of wood to choose: I made it in
walnut and it was a success. After
the awards ceremony, I remember, I
received a text from Danilo Cartacci
saying, with Mariano’s sculpture,
my paint and your bases, WE HAVE
WON the World Expo! I could not
believe it and I am not ashamed in
telling you I was very touched.

From then on, it has been an


ongoing escalation; I created the
where they want them to be or the
colours cannot be to dark or too
clear…Oh my god!

Working on an order has helped


me a lot, but when I am able to
satisfy the client…that is, for me, the
greatest satisfaction.

The dye — some woods are


beautiful with their natural colour;
others need something more, so
dying them brings out their full
potential and beauty. I create all
my own dyes then for the finish, I
use a varnish for furniture, but with
tonalities and polish following my
taste.

5 What are your future plans?

As Steve Jobs said ‘Stay


Hungry, Stay Foolish’. Never fool
The wood comes from all around have created myself, with a unique yourself thinking you are the best—

31
the world. I have long-lasting and design of my own (Alfa contour, SF it could be the biggest mistake
strong friendships with importers contour, etc.), as well as other trade someone like you or me can do. I
that offer me their goods; I must tools. have a blender in my head, in my
admit it, I am very lucky in this. brain’s place. I am always looking
Don’t ask me their names because Obviously, the upper part of a base for new ideas and for nature to
I will never divulge them, not even is the most important one. If I have give me new shapes for creating
under torture! When they call, I go to make a large stock before a particular effects with the wood…to
to see the wood and I try to image show where I have my trade corner, bring forth their true potential is up
them in little cubes. If they convince I dampen all my creativity, but if the to me.
me, I take them; if not I wait for new base is for a commission, then, I
ones. It is also matter of price…I stop and think ‘these figure painters That’s all for this issue. I’d like to say
would really like to buy some very (not everyone, luckily J) are very thank you very much to Franco ‘Il
particular pieces, but what would fussy! They are so hard to please!’ Basetta’ Serra. And I will see you all
be the price of my final product? I next issue. J
always try to keep a good balance They ask me for bases with unusual
between quality and price and that sizes or the cracks must be exactly
has worked until now.

4 Can you give us an overview


on your job? How do you
carry out it creating ‘normal’ bases
for display or the more ‘scenic’
ones with particular shapes and
manufacturing?

Behind every base, there is a lot


of work and time invested. Each
piece begins as a board; I have
to rough-cut them and then to
plane it in proper sizes to obtain
the ‘rough base’ that must be
milled with a tool, which gives the
contour I desire. I use many tools I
Sergeant, Sharpshooter, 5th line
battalion
Company: Stormtrooper Miniatures

Scale: unknown

Contact: www.stormtrooperminiatures.co.uk
32

Tarleton’s Legion Officer, Charleston,


1780
Company: FeR Miniatures

Scale: 1/12th

Contact: ferminiatures.com
JFK, the 35th President of the United
States
Company: Life Miniatures

Scale: 1/10th

Contact: www.lifeminiatures.com

33

Germanic Warrior

Company: Tin Berlin

Size: 75mm

Contact: www.tin-berlin.de
BARBARELA Lord of mussels

Company: Mproyec

Size: 54mm

Contact: www.mproyec.com

Warrior of the North

Company: Andrea Miniatures

Scale: 1/8th

Contact: www.andreaeurope.com
34

The Troll

Company: MJ Miniatures

Scale: 1/9th

Contact: www.mj-miniatures.co.kr
Ragnok, Norse Orc Hero

Company: FeR Miniatures

Scale: 1/12th

Contact: ferminiatures.com

35
Crush your Enemies

Company: Demented games

Size: 75mm

Contact: [email protected]

The Wicken King

Company: BrokenToad

Scale: 1/10th

Contact: www.brokentoad.co.uk
by Justin McCoy
36

The moment I first saw the art for


Ian McQue’s Remora, I was in love.
I’ve been a big fan of his art for a
long time and when I discovered
that Industrial Mechanika (http://
industriamechanika.com/) had
several kits based on his work, I
immediately picked up the Remora,
Deck Hands, and several of the IM
stowage and detail items.

Given my penchant for realistic


detailing, I also started collecting
rusty ship images and international
freight labels. I quickly found
myself working on boxes, pallets
and stowage for a delivery vehicle
inspired by Amazon China.

boxes and figure


At this point, it was just a matter
of deciding how to paint the ship
and building enough stowage to
completely fill the deck. The pallets
were made with basswood strips
and the shrink wrap was made with
plastic wrap, pulled tight and then
quickly heated with a lighter to bind
it and pull it taut.

Of course, it was at this point


that the project went completely
sideways. I’d had the idea of
creating a flying restaurant inspired
by the movie “The Fifth Element”.
However, I was discouraged by
voices on the internet, including that
of IM owner Michael Fichtenmayer, Testing the packaging design
on the grounds that everyone who
owns one of these kits says they’re
going to make a flying restaurant.
So, I went looking for examples.

And turned up…nothing.

37
That’s when I set all of the pallets,
boxes, and containers aside and
started working out how to make
this thing a restaurant.

dirty pallets

wrapped pallet
I began by simply placing the hull of the kit on a piece
of paper and tracing it. Because the hull is curved, I had
to take some minor liberties, but I wasn’t after complete
accuracy at this point; just a way to get the ideas flowing.

My inspiration folder includes 112 images and 6 sub-


folders. This includes more than 40 images from Asian
restaurants, sidewalk vendors and cramped kitchens.
There are separate folders for the engines (8 images),
seagulls (3 images) and portable cooking equipment
(12 images). I also had my local Chinese restaurant ask
why I was taking pictures of their kitchen while waiting
for my takeout and I don’t think they really believed me
when I told them it was so I could build a tiny version of
their stove. In related news, the finished stove is a near
replica of the one down the street.

I kept to the initial layout for the bulk of the project, in


no small part because there weren’t a lot of ways to fit
everything into such a cramped space. I had originally
hoped to have tall bar style seating down the middle, but
there simply wasn’t room.

Of course having a plan doesn’t mean I didn’t play with


38

other ideas, such as putting the wok at the bow of the


ship.

restaurant layout

planned seating wok at the bow


various counters

pink foam in the bow

While testing ideas for the layout, I used pink foam as

39
stand-ins for the equipment. This was also a convenient
way to check the fit on components that had to be
assembled, such as the wash counter.

Based on a careful trace of the bow area, I created


several versions of the counter. I was careful to include
the support stanchions, as I used those to help support
the finished counter. I also made sure that it was the
proper height for the figure, as it wouldn’t do to be
surprised by too-low counters when I was finished.

With a large project like this which is going to involve


both a great deal of painting and a great deal of scratch- standing at the bow
building, I like to alternate between the two so that
I don’t get burned out on one or the other. Prior to
beginning the paint work, though, I had to find the right
spot to balance the kit so that it could be displayed…
and then drill a ½” hole into it with the drill press. I have
no wisdom to share on this process beyond the usual
measure twice, [drill] once, beyond saying OH MY GAWD
MAKE SURE IT’S RESTING FLAT!

Which is how I wound up with Ship on a Stick.

With the ship drilled and a flight stand installed, I


commissioned an excellent stand from Wayne Rogers. I
went with a dark brown, low luster finish so that it would
complement the rust tones, without a shine that would
draw attention. With a black stain, the light satin finish
would have been more obvious and thus distracting;
I didn’t want a matte black finish as it looks dirty very
easily.
ship on a stick
All of the hull components received
a coating of Krylon Camo Brown.
This is my go-to base for heavy rust
finishes as it’s an excellent, durable
dark brown enamel spray. After
that I started in on the wheelhouse,
using a layered hairspray technique.
This works the same way as the
single layer chipping technique,
but gives you a much heavier, more
random finish. It is very important to
ensure that each layer is dry before
you move on.

brown ship
40

first rust

In this photo we have Krylon – hairspray – acrylic red.

I then simply alternated between one of my rust colours


and a layer of hairspray, hitting each with the blow dryer
to be sure they were dry before moving on to the next
step. There was little rhyme or reason to this, as I wanted
a very rough, random finish.

Once you have your layers of paint and hairspray, you


can remove them with a wet brush for more controlled
chipping or load up your airbrush with water, set the
pressure high and go nuts!

I took the latter course.


I emphasised dark rust colours in my
layers, as I wanted to give the look of old
rust and the visual texture this technique
creates really helps sell the idea of
rough, heavy rust.

Of course you’ve already seen the


finished piece, so you might have
guessed that I’m about to paint over
all of that hard work. Using the same
technique, I painted the wheelhouse
in several shades of white. Before I did
that, however, I gave the wheelhouse
a generous coating of matte enamel
varnish. It is important to note that acrylic,
or polyvinyl varnish is still porous and so
isn’t generally suitable for this technique.

Using Daler Rowney FW inks I added,


from top-to-bottom, left-to-right: Cool
Grey, Turquoise, Antelope Brown, Yellow
Ochre, and Flesh Tint. The bottom right
pot was my pure white for the final layer,
representing more recent paint and

41
allowing me to highlight the finished,
peeling white paint. paints

yellow/white wheelhouse

Once the final layer of white went on, the wheelhouse


went back under a heavy pressure water spray.

The finished result left me with a rough, random, peeling


white paint. There are hints that either the wheelhouse
had been a different colour in the past or maybe the
environment is just unkind to white paint.

close up of the peeling white paint


peeling white wheelhouse wheelhouse on deck

Later in the project, the wheelhouse


will receive additional detailing
and weathering that will help break
up the flat look of the rusty white
42

panels.

Next issue, I’ll paint the hull…for the


first time.
44

Small Victories
A few weeks ago, Marike Reimer organised a
painting contest, to be held at Gencon in support
of the LGBT Community called the Rainbow Brush.
FPM decided this was a cause worth supporting
and we were proud to sponsor the Best
Interpretation category that was won by Jennifer
Kaufman with her diorama ‘Small Victories’.
On 26th March, 2015, Indiana
Governor Mike Pence signed
the religious freedom bill into
law, making it legal for people to
discriminate against members of
the LGBT community as well as
other groups on the grounds of
moral objection. Being born in the
Midwest myself, I found this both
baffling and shameful.

I was so happy when Marike Reimer


announced the Rainbow Brush
competition in support for LGBT
rights. The cause is close to my
heart on a personal level. It gave
me a venue for this comical protest
diorama! It shows Jason Wiebe’s
Battle Troll from Reaper Miniatures
lurching blindly forward to attack
one of Tom Meier’s Ballerina Fairy
Princess Infantry from Thunderbolt
Mountain. Unbeknownst to him, his
target has serious back-up!

45
I know that we can not change the
whole world, but at least we can
work on our own little corner of it,
one Small Victory at a time.

Laters, Jen
Details
Price: £8.00
Size: 240ml
Material: Modelling Compound

Available from
46

Deluxe Materials

Deluxe Materials: Create and Shape


A few weeks back, I was looking at some websites and I came across a
product I had never seen before, Create and Shape by Deluxe Materials.
I already use a few of their products on a regular basis and know they
make good stuff, so this Create and Shape interested me and, in my mind,
warranted extra investigation.

Looking at their website, it seems this is another product


that the railway model guys have been keeping a secret
from us figure modellers. After reading what this product
does and looking at the YouTube video Deluxe have
produced for the railway guys, I was further intrigued
to see what it could do for us and ordered a pot and
planned a base to use it on.

A couple of days later it arrived and at first, I thought


there had been a mistake and they had sent me an
empty pot. When I opened it, I was surprised to it full to
the brim of a very light weight, soft white substance that
has the consistence of mousse.
first basic shapes basic shapes fully dry

47
very easy to carve easy to shape

The first test was to create some basic shapes and let
the paste dry. According to the information I found, it
can be careful rolled and pushed into any shape and left
to dry (24 hours) then refined with files and sand paper.
After giving this a go, I must say it’s very hard to get
precise shapes simply because the paste is so soft, but
this is negated by the ability to shape it later.

Once they were thoroughly dry, I must say I was


impressed with how strong the material has become; it’s
almost like model-board. As you can see, I have cut the
small piece fairly easily and the long thin bit I put over
the curve to dry has kept its shape perfectly and has
dried very rigid. Shaping it is very easy with a craft knife
and sand paper. I even used a finer grade paper to see
how smooth I could get it and it reacted well; I think it
could, with the right tools and patience, be worked to a
smoother finish very smooth finish. To further test the material, I decide
to glue two parts together and see what the bond is like
when glued it make a pretty strong bond

using Rocket Max super glue, which is my usual brand.


After pushing together the two parts for a 30 count, the
it accepts the glue very easily bond is pretty good and not easy to break.
48

roughing up the surface spreading is very easy and no messy sculpting tools

I’m going to put it to some use and see if it really does


live up to the billing by using it on a scenic base that I
mentioned above; one that will be later moulded and
cast under the 2BG Scenic Base range that Martyn
Dorey and myself own. The first step is to use it for some
ground works.

On this base, I want some rocks up one side and a flatter


muddy area that will be later covered in water effects
once painted. Using a craft knife, I roughen the area up
to get a better bond between the two materials (the bulk
of the base is made from foam core, glued into layers).
Then using a sculpting tool, I smooth the paste onto the
surface and press it down to compact it.

I can honestly say it goes on very well, like spreading


butter with no waste at all; any tiny bits that do drop
off the side can be picked up and added to the bulk. covered in 3-4 minutes
filling the press-mould

49
no sagging and the material accepts the textures very well de-moulded after 2 hours

Covering the area that I wanted only I let the base dry overnight and was even mixing paint in with it to fix
took me a few minutes and it was very impressed with the result. It’s areas of broken groundworks.
very easy to do. The paste doesn’t nice and rigid, while being light; in
stick to the modelling tools or my fact, I can hardly tell the difference Overall, I’m really pleased with the
fingers like Milliput or Magic Sculp from before the groundworks were discovery of this product and will
would and it doesn’t dry out too added. continue to use it for my modelling.
quickly and need re-wetting like air It’s very light and surprisingly strong
drying clay would (a process that is One last test I thought I’d try, just for when left to dry properly. Imagine
very messy and one I hate). this article, was using it in a press the weight saved when transporting
mould. This is one I have had for 10-20 miniatures around for shows.
The next step was to create some a while of some tools. The Create The material has lots of uses;
textures. Using a brush I started to and Shape paste was pushed into groundworks, shape forming and
dab around the flatter area and this it, smoothed off and allowed to set in press moulds and can be used in
left a very rough, pitted surface — for a couple of hours. The result is many ways—straight out of the pot,
one that resembled freshly fallen not perfect, but I’m happy with it watered down or with paint added
snow…one for the future maybe? I considering it was not left over night for colour.
then smoothed parts of it out to add and just done for a quick example
some interest and differing textures. of the product.

To make the rocky surface, I have There are other uses for the paste
an old river stone I found a few shown on the YouTube instructional
years ago and by pressing this into video which I didn’t have time
the surface, I create the rock wall to test for this article. Examples
I want trying to mimic rock strata. include attaching models to display
This can take a while to get looking bases, watering down to paint onto
right, but I kept going until I was areas that will later be textured
happy with the result. (such as twister wire trees) and
If you have any questions regarding this project, email us at [email protected] . Marko
: : TUTORIAL will do his best to answer these questions in the next issues of the FPM.

This month has been really busy


for me, submitting four articles plus
50

the regular editing of the Putty and


Paint feature, which meant that
I’ve had to push back the Malifaux
Gaming Table article further down
my standard monthly time line. As
always happens, regular life steps in
and you end up building and writing
in the middle of your well deserved Hungering Darkness’ factions (The
vacation with this wonderful view Ten Thunders and The Neverborn). I
from the terrace. Life is hard. then cut the cloth in two identically
sized pieces to form the left and the
Now that I’ve secured your right side of the curtains.
sympathy for my plight, let us
continue with the Hungering
Darkness underground brothel
build. Last month my team and
I finished the parquet flooring,
carpeting and wallpapers. This
issue, we’ll be tackling the stage
curtains that will hopefully work (at
least to some extent) and putting
in the doors to the three rooms
and finishing the door frames. I’ll
do my best to finish painting the
newly installed doors, as well as the
sliding doors to the module itself.

The first thing I did was purchase


two strips of the cheapest cloth.
One strip was purple and the other
orange to match the colours of the
LED lighting in the module. These
also represent the colours of the
TUTORIAL : :

The pieces were about 6 x 4cm


large, so hemming these was out
of the question. In order to make
the holes for the curtains rings that
would slide along the curtain rail, I
used some superglue on that edge
to make it hard. Then, using a small
pick, I made the holes. I used rings
for making cheap jewellery that I
bought in a local hobby store. Using
precision pliers I opened each ring
and fed it through the holes in the
curtains. Once the rings were in
place, I closed them using the same
pliers.

Planning Top Tips: Fitting a Curtain Rail

I used a 2mm brass rod to make the in diametre in two walls. One wall I
curtain rail. I cut the piece 2mm longer drilled to the depth of 1mm and the
than was the gap between the two other to the depth of 2mm. This would
walls. Then, using the same pick and a later enable me to fit the rail into both

51
hand held pin vice, I made holes 2mm holes for a better grip.
: : TUTORIAL

Now that the curtains were fitted


with the rings, I fed the curtain
rail through the rings. I wanted
the curtains curled and using the
clothes pegs just wouldn’t form the
curls I desired. It was at this point
that I asked my wife to step in and
help me iron the folds. It was really
fiddly to iron the folds, so I needed
the second pair of hands in order
for me to not iron my fingers.

Marko's Lamentations: Making Picture Frames


52

I also had two lockets like the one I of naked 19th century ladies I used in
used last time to make the mirror left earlier issues and glued them in place
over. I decided to use them as frames using diluted PVA glue. Once it was dry,
for paintings that would hang in the I cut the corners that were excess.
corridors. I used a couple of the pictures
TUTORIAL : :

All that was left to be built on the


module were the doors of the
rooms. I decided to make them
open out in to the corridor instead
of inside the rooms, as this way the
doors could be used as blockers of
line of sight during gaming. To make
the door frames sturdy, I made
them out of linen slats (instead of
balsa wood). It is fiddlier and much
more force needs to be used to
cut them, but I figured I needed
strength to withstand the constant
opening and shutting of the door to
justify the extra effort. The hinges
I used were the smallest I could
find in a hobby store. I think they
were originally intended as small
DIY jewellery box hinges. The front
side of the door was 2mm balsa
wood to which I glued a pair of
hinges, making sure the superglue
doesn’t run into the moving parts.
Using superglue, I then glued the

53
backside of the door and cut it
to size so it would fit inside the
door frame. My hinges were now
firmly fixed in the structure of the
door. I then proceeded to make
some ornaments on both sides of
the door. I used extra thin strips of
balsa wood that were tailor made
for each side of each door. Next up
was the doorknob that I fashioned
out of a nail I got with the jewellery
box hinges. I intentionally placed
the doorknobs only on the inside
of the door. No one can open the
door from the corridor to ensure the
tricks have their privacy.

Once I was satisfied with how my


doors looked, I glued the free side
of the hinges to the door frames
fixed inside the walls. Using a strip
of balsa wood, I fixed the hinges
to the frame, also ensuring the
sturdiness of the installation as well
as hiding the flat part of the hinges
that was just out of scale.

At this point, I added some balsa


strips to frame the door frames into
the existing walls and hide any and
all wallpaper rips that accidentally
happened in issue 27.
: : TUTORIAL

Next up was painting. I first painted


the inside of the sliding doors
metal. I used Chainmail (old Citadel
paint) and washed it with Badab
Black wash. Once it was dry, I used
some Model Mates Rust Effect on
the whole surface. After about ten
minutes, I followed the already
known procedure of removing the
excess effect.
54

The remaining wooden parts —


door frames, swinging doors and
outside of the sliding doors was
painted using Vallejo Brown Wash
and when all was done, I painted
the outside and the top side of the
module frames black.

Next time, we’ll move on to one of


the final two modules — Ramos’ lab
and McMourning’s morgue with
prison. As always, if you have any
questions or suggestions about
this build, feel free to contact us at
Figure Painter Magazine (terrain@
figurepaintermagazine.co.uk) and
we’ll try to answer your questions.
TUTORIAL : :

55
Details
Price: €50
Size: 90mm
Material Resin
56

Available from

Aradia Miniatures

Aradia Miniatures: Mawhi


The main hero of today’s review is Mawhi, the Whale
Man. He’s a huge, muscular dude being a mixture of a
whale and a man (and a bit of a shark, if I can interpret
the back fin correctly). This is a fantastic figure sculpted
by very talented sculptor Allan Carrasco, who is well
known for his man-animal hybrids. The miniature was
created for the small company Aradia Miniatures that, as
you most likely know, specialise in kind of fairy tale-ish
miniatures such as the Toad King, Alefika, Diana, Goblin
King, Nyara (the fox lady), or Harley and his racehorse.

This figure is not yet commercially available, so those in-


terested in buying it will have to wait for few more weeks
before it will hit the store shelves. A few months ago, it
was one of the perks of Aradia’s Indigogo campaign to
help them produce the Green Knight and three other
miniatures—Mawhi, Krampus and Sad Baby Satyr.

I must say, I’m not a big fan of all the crowd-funding


happening recently in the hobby. I do agree that in some
cases it’s the only way to get a project going, but with
57
all the constant delays, changes I know, I know, it helps to keep
in schedule, countless updates costs lower and maybe even saves
with yet another excuse why the a bit on shipping costs. After all,
deadlines needs to be moved...I’m the price depends on the weight
just tired of that, especially when of the parcel, but nice packaging
it happens with campaigns of well is nice packaging. To be fair, I think
established companies that should it’s the standard packaging for all
know their production process and Aradia products, so it’s not a case
time-frame needed to complete it. of just cutting costs on the Indigogo
Because of all that, I was pretty sure miniatures.
I’m done with crowd-funding in gen-
eral. However, Aradia’s campaign Quality of the Cast
was surprisingly on time. To be hon-
est, I never thought it was possible, I must say this not so little fella is
but their example shows that it is. I really nicely cast. All the details
can only hope more companies will are really beautifully sculpted and
follow through and deliver on time. very crisp. The only mould lines
I could find are two on his sides
The Box (quite visible, but rather simple to
remove) and a small one on his
Sadly (at least for me), the box is arm. I couldn’t find any air bubbles
just a thin plastic one. The miniature or damaged details. On the close
itself is solid enough, you could up photos, you can see how nicely
even say bulky, but you should everything is sculpted. All the veins,
know by now that I like a nice box. skin folds/wrinkles, nails and tiny
sea creatures on his back are beau-
tifully shaped, without any unnec-
essary sharp lines that could look
like a damaged surface. Everything
has this nice organic feel; yet when
it’s necessary, shapes are sharp or
pointed to represent harder mate-
rials.

Assembly

The thick and long entry points


are making dry fitting impossible
at the moment, but it seems after
removing them and smoothing the
surface, all should fit really well
together. The miniature’s pose is
pretty simple and static, so all join-
ing lines should be easy to access
and fill with some putty. Even a fully
assembled figure shouldn’t be a
problem in painting. As far as I can
tell, all parts will be accessible by
the brush. My only concern is the
58

bird that sits on Mawhi’s shoulder.


The creature is cast in two pieces,
the main body and feet resting on
some sort of shell. As you can see
on the photos, the bird’s legs are
thin and should really be pinned
for security. However, the drill bit
and wire need to be really thin to
prevent damaging the fragile parts.
Luckily if you don’t want to risk it,
the bird is completely separate and
you may chose not to include it in
your piece.

Customer Experience

It’s completely different this time. As


the mini was part of the crowd-fund-
ing campaign, all communication
with backers was pretty efficient
and professional and I can only
hope it’s the same when purchasing
models directly from the website.
The biggest plus is that the cam-
paign wasn’t delayed and this alone
makes me a big fan of the company.

After the campaign was finished, I


exchanged a few emails with the
guys running Aradia Miniatures and
I must say the good impression was
affirmed even further.
59
Overall Opinion

Personally, I absolutely love this


miniature; but I’m not really objec-
tive here as I am a big fan of Allan
Carrasco’s sculpts. I seriously like
everything about this miniature; the
concept, the sculpt, even the colour
of the resin, which is unusually
dark. I don’t even mind the fact that
the pose of this miniature is similar
to the poses of other animal-men
sculpted by Allan. It’s similar to one
of the other ones to the point that
I thought it’s just a variation of that
sculpt. Having them both next to
each other, it’s clear that Mawhi
was sculpted from the scratch. It’s
by far the biggest of all of them.
Like I said—I’m a fan of the sculptor,
so I guess you need to decide for
yourself if you think this (not so)
little fella would look good in your
display cabinet (I bet it will, though).
Hungarian Infantry
Regiment Erzherog
Ferdinand 1762
by Ernest

1/9 scale resin bust. Sculpted by


Pavol Ovecka for United Empire
Miniatures.
60
61
The Dark Marauder
by Man-Jin, KIM

This figure is a collaboration work


with Tiny Leads and is probably
the second or third fantasy figure
for me in 10 years.

I’m not a fantasy figure painter,


so I think my work is not as good
as the other great figures, but I
62

believe everything is started from


the basics. I learned a lot from
this work and I felt a freedom
while I worked it; it was a great
time and experience for me.

I used only Jo Sonja’s acrylic


paint and tried for a pale and
semi-transparent skin tone and
textures by stippling and using
flow medium and satin varnish.

More than anything, I want to say


to Antonio Piqui and Alex Iguazzu
“Thank you so much for your trust
in me for this collaboration.”

Thank you.
63
Herakles & Cerberus
by Alexandre_Cortina_Bonastre

The figure depicts the exact


moment when Herakles shows
Cerberus to King Eurystheus in
his palace at Mikenes and was
sculpted by Carles Vaquero.

Being the biggest of all the


heroes, at the end of his days
he was elevated to the category
of the gods and accepted into
64

Olympus, where he married


Hebe, the goddess of youth and
converted into an immortal.

The aggressive expression of


Cerberus is not owed so much
to his natural terrifying character
shown to all who would cross to
the realm of Hades (the under-
world), but perhaps, more as a
manifestation of distrust and un-
certainty at finding himself before
an element completely different
to his own: a world irradiated by
sunlight, in which life extends
beyond his reach.

The representation of Herakles


in his last task not only offers us
this somewhat subjective dis-
course mentioned before, but
the opportunity to integrate into
the figure some more elements
brought from his previous tasks:
In the first place is the Nemean
Lion’s pelt, the First Work, which
was used as a form of armour, as
it was impenetrable to all weap-
ons (using cunning, Herakles
beat him with asphyxia). The bow
(which according to Homer in
the Iliad, belonged some years
after to the Achean hero Filoc-
tetes and which was used to kill
the Trojan Paris), rests in a quill
apparently made from the skin of
the Hydra of Lerna, his Second
Work, and using the saliva of the
monster he poisoned the tips of
the arrows he would use on vari-
ous occasions, including against
the Stymphalian Birds, the Sixth
Work.

The skin of the animal used to


clothe his left arm as a wristband
could be from the Erymanthian
Boar, his Fourth Work, as can the
boots, which could be elaborated
from the Golden Hind of Artemis
(Third Work), which he pursued
for an entire year without rest.
Another sign of his previous tasks

65
we see in the girdle of Hippolyta,
Queen of the Amazons (Ninth
Work) in which we can observe
decoration of Scythian manu-
facture (pasture animals, Mother
Earth, etc., sacred elements to
the Amazons according to the
classic tradition). And obviously,
part of the sculpture is Cerberus,
the terrible dog of the god Ha-
des, which according to some
iconographic sources had an
enormous body with three heads
(thus, one rested while the other
two kept guard) and the tail of a
snake. The hero tamed it in order
to take it to his audience with
king Eurystheus as a final test.

Owing to the mythical and fantas-


tic character of this sculpture and
seeing as the classical icono-
graphic sources do not offer any
hint of the colours or textures,
we believe it opportune to leave
to the imagination of the painter
a free chromatic choice, thus al-
lowing a greater personal inter-
pretation of the myth and each
of the elements that make up the
sculpture.

Alexandre Cortina.
66

This is a new painting process, a step


by step based on the new figure we’ve
just released in the FeR Miniatures
Signature Series: Mike Blank. It is a
Teutonic Knight and this version is
different from the box art that was
masterfully painted by Alfonso Prado. In
my case, I’m going to paint the miniature
as a Hospitaller Knight.

By Fernando Ruiz
67
So, we are going to prepare the
figure according to that idea. As
always, I first recommend you think
of what you want to do. I want to
portray a Knight that is wearing very
dark clothing and the white cross
of the Hospitaller Knight heraldry.
The setting will be the Battle of Las
Navas de Tolosa, a big battle of the
Spanish Middle Ages and will be
a very dry and arid scenario. I will
represent him after the battle, so
he is going to have a weary, dusty
aspect with a bit of blood over the
clothes.
For the Knight, I’m going to start with a basecoat of
The terrain that I’ve chosen is more pure black sprayed onto the figure with Citadel Black
or less a simple one. It is quite spray primer followed by a basecoat with the airbrush
dry and has a few stones, some of pure matt black (Scalecolor). I did it with an airbrush,
sand and a few bushes. The main but it also can be done with a brush if you don’t have an
accessory will be a hitching post airbrush or you don’t want to use it.
with rings for tying a horse on it that
will be made of a dry wood with
an iron band and rings falling over
it. This is going to be quite arid,
so I have painted the base of the
scenery and the post quite simply:
a basecoat of Arabic Shadow by
Scalecolor. It’s a colour that you can
find in the Flesh Paint set.
FACE

As with most of the miniatures I


paint, the first thing that I started
doing here is the face. The face
of this miniature is important, but
it is not the most complicated
part as it is almost completely
covered by an inner hood that he
has showing under the cloak. I’ve
gone for a simple skin and I’ve
concentrated on making something
quite characterful. The mix is very
simple: a basecoat of Brown Sand
by Vallejo highlighted with Light
Flesh and darkened with Black Red.
These 3 colours will form the basis
of the flesh palette. I also added
a bit of Talens acrylic retarder to
the mixes in order to make them
last longer and to make the later
blending part of the process easier.

What I do now is a sketch of the


68

work that I will be doing in the face.


Instead of working very precisely
on highlights and shadows I prefer Here is the basecoat plus the first shadow that I’ve
to paint first a rough sketch of the applied as a wash on the whole face just to mark the
features of the face, so I know very features. I’ve also persisted a bit on the darker parts
quickly where I’m heading. That like under the eyebrows, under the nose, under the
way in around half an hour of work, I cheekbones, the lower part of the face, etc.
know if my idea for the face is going
to work and afterwards I simply
have to refine, blend and smooth,
concentrating on the final details
of the face (the final highlights, the
final shadows and the glazes) that
would add the rest of the character,
the eyes, etc.

Here you can see the basecoat:


Brown Sand applied in 2 or 3
thinned coats; just avoid applying
too much paint at once on the
features.
69
After the first shadow, I’ve added the first highlight Then I added a second shadow.
instead of going down with the shadows. I apply
alternatively one shadow and one highlight, because
this way you are not going to have any problems with
contrast and you’ll keep the whole thing balanced. In
this case, I’ve applied the basecoat plus Light Flesh that
I’ve applied in the main highlighted areas in a large,
extensive coat because this highlight has to cover those
areas. After this first highlight, you start to see a bit of
contrast and see where we are trying to go.

Here is the second highlight. This way I accentuate all


those features that I want to mark and would define
the final details of the character of the face. Now I’ve
finished the sketch and I am satisfied with it, so I only
have to work on blending, glazes and additional touches
here and there.
Now what I’m going to do is to blend all the transitions Now the tones of the face are more or less better
between the different flesh tones. I start on the left blended and I’m going to introduce the different tones
side and, as the face is not too big, I don’t need to that will complete the appearance.
concentrate completely on a certain spot. We can go
70

more or less on the left half the face and once we are
satisfied with the result, we move to the right side.

First of all, in order to get an idea of the results so Next, I painted the eyes in green. You can use black plus
far I have painted the beard, the moustache and the any kind of green you prefer. It’s up to you. I’ve used a
eyebrows in the darkest colour of the skin plus a bit of Citadel colour, a pale light green. I’ve painted the pupils
black in order to know exactly which parts are hair and in black and then I start adding a few highlights, adding
which parts are flesh. Also, I have outlined the black a bit of green to the black until I end up with pure green.
contour of the face. In this smaller scale, the only thing you have to do is to
add a small dot in the opposite corner of the highlights
to simulate the reflection of the eye.
Next, I continue with the glazing. The first ones that I’ve The next glaze would be adding a bit of blue to the
applied are the reddish ones. For that purpose, I’ve used basecoat to simulate the five o’clock beard in all the
Ruby Red from Citadel, which is a very scarlet colour. I’ve corners of the lower part of the face. Also with these
added small controlled washes under the nose, under glazes we can take advantage of some details that are

71
the cheekbones, under the eyebrows just to enhance all not so well blended. I’ve simulated a couple of scars
those shadows with a warmer colour. We have to do this here and there to add character to the face.
with the paint really thinned, in order to avoid overdoing
the effect. With a bit of Warlock Purple, also from Citadel,
I shade the darkest corners of those same areas.

To finish, I highlighted the hair. I’ve started with a


basecoat of the darkest colour of the flesh plus a bit of
black and over that coat I’ve started to apply highlights
adding Citadel’s Snakebite Leather that is a leathery
orange. You can add any brown orange you like most
and at the end, for the final highlights, I’ve used a bit
of the lightest colour of skin. That way, even if it has an
orange tone, is still integrated with the colours that I
already used in the face; a good trick for integrating the
hair areas with the skin.
Clothing

After the face is finished, we are


going to start with the main black
cloth. Black was the main colour
used for the Hospitaller Knights
in all their garments, so their
appearance was quite austere. They
didn’t use flashy colours or any
other striking elements, because
the regulation of the order didn’t
allow it. I am going to use a basic
black tone, because after finishing
the main areas I’m going to apply
a lot of dust and dirt effects. What
I need now is a basic job nicely
done, but not so detailed with
different tones and shades that will
be applied later. I’m going to start
from the black basecoat I’ve used
that it is Scalecolor Flat Black and
I’m going to do a mix of around 50%
of Caspian Blue and Brown Leather
(both from Scalecolor). With this
72

mix, we have a dark grey which is


quite suitable as a main highlight
for the Flat Black. The palette would
be this mix darkened with black
for the basecoat, pure black for
the shadows and the pure mix as
first highlight. Also, I’ll add a bit of
Scalecolor Pale Skin added to that
mix for the final highlights in the
most prominent points.

Also here I added a bit of Talens


acrylic retarder to the mixes in order
to make them last longer and to
make the later blending part of the
process easier.

First, I start with the hood that the The system is quite simple. I’ve
figure is wearing. I’ve decided that started from the black basecoat
I’m going to paint it in the same tone and simply added highlights; really
of the main surcoat. As the face is simple in this case because I am
much lighter than the cloak, it will painting black.
offer a very nice frame for it.
I added some additional highlights and blended a bit First, I started with the hood and now I move to the chest
the transitions. Remember to keep in mind when you that it is decorated in the same way. I used the same
are painting a very dark colour or a very light colour system, only adding black in the final shadows to correct
that at the end that tone will be perceived as darker or or outline parts.
lighter depending on the other colours you have used

73
on the surrounding elements. This black tone looks quite
light right now because the rest of the elements are still
pure black, but as we go on decorating more and more
elements of the figure it will look darker as expected.

Before moving to another area, I’m going to paint the After getting the right shape, I paint over it with pure Pale
white Hospitaller cross that is painted first in a really Skin. Even it is a bit pinkish applied over this dark area,
light tone of the same colour used in the cloth, obtained it will look like white. If needed you can add a few extra
adding a bit of extra Pale Skin to the mix. highlights later, but I don’t want to add them yet until I
see the look of the rest of the figure.
In the same way, I painted the right
sleeve of the arm that is holding
the helmet and the lower folds of
the surcoat. You don’t have to be
extremely careful in the bottom part,
because all will be covered with
dust and dirt.

For the ample sections of cloth that


need clean transitions, I have a
system to make things even easier.
After I’ve done the sketch, I apply
a thin film with a mix of acrylic
retarder and water (50%) over the
surface. I apply this film with a
Pentel applicator, but you can apply
it with a clean brush if you don’t
have one. Over this wet film, I apply
the different tones of paint that I
need to blend and, with the tip of
the clean brush, I blend them as if I
were working with oils.

Once you are satisfied with the


74

result, you simply dry the paint with


the help of a hair-dryer. It dries
the paint with exactly the same
usual properties and you can do
the process as many times as you
want in order to refine the results as
much as you want.

Now we have one of the two main


black areas painted but, as I’ve said
before, they don’t look quite dark
enough because it’s still missing the
rest of the elements. Now, I’m going
to paint the other parts in order
to complete the figure from inside
to outside and get a much more
accurate perception of the results.
I start with the gambeson. The gambeson was usually a After this basecoat, I add two or three washes with a
linen padded garment that was worn under the surcoat, mix of Black and a bit of Brown Leather by Scalecolor.
normally under the chainmail and sometimes over parts This way we obtain a very dark brown colour for some

75
of it. I have started painting it with Brown Sand from dirty shadows. You don’t have to be very clean, because
Vallejo (which is also the basecoat for the skin), because the idea is create stains that we’ll reinforce with the
it is a colour that I’ve already used and it will add a rich highlights.
base for the following step.

I apply the first highlights with Brown Sand and you can To enhance this result, I’ve added a bit more of Pale Skin to
actually see in the image that I’ve started to mark certain the Brown Sand to finish the highlights of the gambeson.
wrinkles, tension lines, small imperfections and more. As I’m going to add a lot of dirt in the future, I didn’t play too
much with further tones here, but I encourage anyone to
try additional washes with other dark tones to create stains
and effects with lots of personality.
The next thing I’m going to paint
is the belt. If you can, it’s better
to paint the figure from inside to
outside, so the next step will be
painting the two belts. I am going
to paint them in a very flashy tone,
an interesting deep orange tone
to simulate the appearance of rich
leather. When you are painting a
sober looking miniature, you need
to use any possible chance to put
some striking colour in areas that
will enhance the overall look of the
piece and make it more interesting.

First, I’ve covered the belts with Over that, I’ve started applying
a bit of Flat Black plus Scorched highlights. The first one will be pure
Brown from Citadel. Scorched Brown.
76

Second will be with pure Brown


Leather from Scalecolor and after
that I’ve applied Skrag Brown, a
new Citadel colour and the final
highlights will consist in Skrag
Brown plus a bit of Pale Skin just
to mark all the small scratches and
wrinkles that the leather normally
has on the edges. The result is an
orange brown leather belt very rich
in tonality and contrast.
Now it’s the turn of the great helm. These helmets were For the highlights, I’ve used a mix of Arabic Shadow and
usually painted in a colour to preserve them from the Caspian Blue from Scalecolor and also a bit of drying
elements as rain, dust, etc. Among this Order, they were retarder to make the blending softer. I always try to use
usually painted in black. colours that already are on other parts of the figure if
possible. This mix with a bit of black will work for the

77
First of all, I apply a basecoat of Glossy Black by Vallejo. I basic highlights of the black surface. As you can see,
want it to look as if it has been enamelled. I have gone for a matt finish on the highlights and I’m
keeping the glossy finish for the shadows in order to get
more depth.

After that, I added a bit of Pale Skin to the mix of Caspian For that effect, I’ve used a bit of Tinny Tin plus a bit of
Blue and Arabic Shadow for painting an additional Gunmetal, both by Vallejo Game Colour. This gives us
cross in the side of the helmet. Also in the other side a greased iron tone instead of the plain metallic of the
you can see one of the arms of the cross. This was a Gunmetal and we get a much warmer appearance. After
typical decoration for these pieces of equipment. Now that simulated chipping effect across all the edges of the
the helmet is ready and it’s time for the weathering and helmet and a few scratches here and there, the helmet
chipping effect to show the metal present underneath. has the typical worn look caused by the constant friction
and manipulation of the piece.
To finish, I added a bit of Silver just in some of the I’ve started painting with the same basecoat, but adding
most prominent edges and to mark some more recent a bit of Black to paint the basecoat of the chainmail.
scratches here and there. As I said before, I’m going to
add dust and dirt, but I’ll do this at the end when all the
elements are finished. To take advantage of this palette
78

of metallics already mixed, I will also paint a few parts


of the chainmail on the miniature, the gauntlets and the
legs below the knee.

Then, I’ve highlighted with the mix of Gunmetal and For the shadows, I’ve applied some glazes and shadow
Tinny Tin and painted additional highlights with a bit of tones with inks. First, with green ink, then purple ink and
pure Gunmetal. lastly, blue ink (all from Citadel).
To finish the main body of the figure,
it’s the cape’s turn. As it would
also be in black and trying to avoid
that the overall aspect was a little
boring, I’ve painted it in a different
tonality of black; a bit more reddish
and brownish.

79
For the basecoat of the cape, I’ve used Black Leather by Scalecolor with a bit
of Flat Black also from Scalecolor. This way the basecoat is completely matt.

After that, I added a wash with Flat Black over the whole surface.
80

Then I’ve started applying highlights, adding to the


previous mix a bit of Walnut, also from Scalecolor. As I
always do when painting a large or complicated area,
I first did a sketch to know where to apply the main
highlights. I started initially in the front and then in
the back and then started detailing. For the detailing,
I would simply blend the transitions and add some
highlights with more Walnut ending with this pure tone
on certain edges and raised areas. Of course, on this
area I also used retarder in the mixes and also the
Pentel applicator trick.
81
First, I started working on the hood and then I started painting sections of the
cape to make things much easier.

Finally, I added the typical cross that this military order the basecoat of the cross, I’ve used a bit of Walnut and
wears on the shoulder side of the cape. This time I did Pale Skin by Scalecolor. After applying this mix, I painted
the Hospitaller Cross slightly thicker than the one in the highlights applying pure Pale Skin.
the chest. This helps to reinforce the idea that they are
different pieces of cloth, even if it is a similar colour. For Let’s start the final details.
82

For the sword, I’ve glued the parts of the sword in place Tin and Glorious Gold from Game Colour to paint the
and base-coated it in black. They are really easy to paint. pommel and the buckles of the belt. The sheath of the
First, I painted them with a bit of the metallic colour I’ve sword was painted with a bit of Black Leather, Brown
used for painting the cross. Also, I’ve used a bit of Tinny Leather and then a bit of Walnut.

Also used the same mix for the shoes, but with Arabic
Shadow instead of Walnut.
For the shield, I’ve used the same method that I used for
the surcoat and the cloak, using a mix that is something
in the middle of the two tones: Black Leather, Black and
a bit of Caspian Blue to accentuate the blue colour, along
with retarder in all mixes. For the highlights, I added
Walnut to make it more integrated. I’ve painted the cross
with Walnut and a bit of Pale Skin and highlighted with
just Pale Skin. As it is a large surface, I’ve painted a few
marks and scratches, but tried not to abuse the effect.

I’ve painted the back side with some of the brown tones
over the black basecoat. First I used Scorched Brown,
adding some dots in a random pattern and later a bit of
Snakebite Leather for the final highlights. I’ve painted
the leather straps of the shield with Snakebite Leather,

83
Brown Sand for the first highlights and a bit of Pale Skin
for the final ones. As with all of the leather I’ve painted
on this figure, I’ve started with a glossier colour and then
I’ve added the highlights in a more matt tone to enhance
the effect of leather. To finish it, I applied a couple of
washes to the whole thing in black.

The Terrain

The figure is finished, except for the terrain and dirt


effects. The terrain is quite simple and we have already
started with a coat of Arabic Shadow.

First, I painted the post. I simply added long stripes for


marking the grain of the wood with Walnut, followed
by Walnut and a bit of Pale Skin. I tried not to cover the
whole post, leaving the basecoat underneath. For the
shadows, I added a wash of Black Leather in the lower
areas and for the metallic parts I’ve used a bit of the
remaining mixes of the cross guard of the sword (Black,
Gunmetal and a bit of Tinny Tin). The final touches were
a few washes and rust effects with Orange Leather and
Deep Red by Scalecolor. These pieces can look very
realistic with very little effort.
For the terrain, I’ve started with Arabic Shadow, followed pale green that you can obtain mixing Arabic Shadow
by some random washes in small spots to mark the with Skarsnik Green added to the upper areas of the
84

shadows with Brown Leather. I then added a bit of vegetation. It is important to take notice of the colours
Arabic Shadow to recover the base colour and a bit of we are going to use, because they are the same ones
Pale Skin to highlight small stones here and there. As we are going to use on the figure for simulating the
these colours are matt, you get a dusty appearance. If dust effect. Also I’m going to apply some washes of
you prefer, you can get the same effects with pigments. Walnut here and there to make the whole thing more
The final step was to add a small touch with green: a homogeneous.

Weathering

The dust effect on the figure is


applied in really thinned washes
towards the lower parts. This
way, you build the effect slowly
and avoid overdoing it. Also, you
can concentrate the application
in certain spots to create uneven
patches or stains. The effect builds
up slowly with the application of
several different layers with diverse
colours.

Application of Brown Leather.


85
Application of Arabic Shadow then Walnut.

Finally, some touches with Deep Red, mainly on the


chest and shield, are used to simulate a few blood
stains. With this final effect we need to be careful, as
it is quite easy to overdo it.
After gluing everything
together, the figure is
finished. I hope it has been
helpful!

Best regards,

FeR
86
Firestorm Games is an Independant Wargames Retailer
in Cardiff, South Wales. As well as this webstore, we have
our own bricks and mortar store, a short walk from
Cardiff City Centre.

Attached to the store is our gaming area known as 'the


Battlefields' which consists of over 35 6"x4" gaming
tables, full of scenery for your pleasure! We are open late
nights on Tuesday and Thursday and attract a large mix
of people ready to play whatever takes your fancy! The
Battlefields now also has a fully licensed 'Khador
themed' bar, great when playing a casual game against
your mates or in one of our regular tournaments or
events.

Firestorm Games Ltd


8A Trade Street, Penarth Road
Cardiff, United Kingdom
CF10 5DT.
Tel: 02920 227117
www.firestormgames.co.uk
88

This is a group review of some of the miniatures for the new 32mm
steampunk game ‘Twisted’ by Demented Games.
Demented Games, based in immersive, narrative-driven world miniatures and the very lucky few
Australia, is a fairly new company that revolves around opposing got some as gifts by the guys.
with many years of experience in factions, as they attempt to discover
the industry including one of the the location of the mysterious entity The miniatures we’ll be reviewing
most recognisable sculptors and known as ‘The Engine’. this issue are the collector’s
painters in the world, Sebastian editions; these are cast in high
Archer. Sebastian is an integral part The visual design of Twisted is quality resin and are limited to just
of the team; his record of producing founded on ramshackle mechanical 500 copies. Each one comes with a
high quality miniatures makes Victorian steampunk blended with certificate to verify this. After these
Demented Games well placed the organic, decorative style of Art have gone, the miniatures will be
to deliver superb miniatures and Nouveau. The idea underpinning reissued in white metal. If resin is
excellent customer service. many of our figures is to take your thing, grab them while the
famous characters and ‘twist’ them stocks last.
About a year ago, they embarked into an alternate steampunk form
on their game ‘Twisted’ which is an to make them part of the universe. More details can be found about the
Hence the name game and the miniatures from their
– Twisted! facebook and web page.

You know
whatever
miniature you www.dementedgames.com
get is going to
be a work of art www.facebook.com/TwistedDG
G A M E S and if you were
at Salute last
year, you would
have seen some
very nifty new
Nightingale by Luke Wilson

Details
Price: £13.18
Size: 32mm
Material: Resin

The box I was sent had 3 items


in it. Firstly was a slip showing an lamp, my earlier
advertisement for the game and concern was
a few sample shots of upcoming realised. The
figures and their facebook page, so very bottom
you can look at more of what they of the lamp
do and what is coming. Next was the snapped and
full colour certificate (incidentally I left the bottom
got number 109) and then last, but still attached to
not least, is Nightingale herself. the column. I

89
think there is too
She is housed in a standard much attached
clamshell plastic box with some to the columns,
foam to help protect her and she so I will have to
needs it, because she is so small model something
and delicate. Upon opening the onto this one at
box, you see the exquisite detail painting. You
and really get to appreciate how can see in the picture what mine She is nicely put together and there
small and delicate this mini is. My looks like now. will be very minimal filling; in fact
only concern on first inspection was once I do it for real, I may not have
the rather big columns attached to I think this makes this miniature an to use any filler at all, so good is the
the very delicate parts, but on the experienced modeller’s piece, but fit. The only mould line I could find
second inspection, you notice more don’t forget this is the collector’s was down one side of her dress and
and more details--filigree bottles, edition and the metal version is this was so slight a small going over
small cogs…it’s endless. Seb has going to be a lot hardier and better with a very fine grade bit of wet and
really excelled himself on this work to game with. Saying this, I am dry is all that is needed and that will
of art. looking forward to the challenge of be all the prep done. You can see in
painting her and I will be surprised the dry fit photos what I mean about
I started the prep work to get ready if I don’t see her popping up in how well she goes together. Finally,
for the dry fit of Nightingale. The painting competitions, due to the the pose is so close to the art work
wings came away easily from the sheer amount of detailing on her. it’s almost as if the art was taken
columns, but when I removed the from the figure. Spot on.
Ollyver by Shane Rozzell

Details
Price: £16.45
Size: 32mm
Material: Resin

Ollyver, a member of the MORE! Also


Dickensians faction was once included is a
that once sweet and innocent lad 40mm round
who found himself orphaned on lipped gaming
the streets of London. However, base for those
those days are long gone because of you that way
Feygin’s tinkering with ‘The Engine’ inclined. :p
has transformed him into a raging
beast who hardly remembers friend Old Feygin’s
or foe, destined to smash all in his meddling has
90

way. sure left its


toll on young
Like Luke’s miniature, mine also Ollyver, because
came with some bumph about he is sculpted all
the game and the certificate of misshapen with
authentication. At the top of this a huge upper
review, I said the miniature is torso and long arms ripped with well thought out and goes together
32mm. That is a average size of veins and muscles and wrapped in with very little effort or need of filler.
the miniatures for the game (1:48th- chains. Ollyver also has a very Art I spotted one small air hole that will
ish), but the Ollyver miniature itself Nouveau power fist that has some be partially covered and I had a
measures close to 54mm and exquisite details sculpted on to it problem removing one of the pour
comes in 5 parts, which includes a and some pipes that connect the points on the power fist that left
small bowl and spoon for his gruel… power fist to the right shoulderpad a slight rough edge on the ornate
he wears. corner. Close inspection of the other
parts revealed a mouldline down
All the details his leg as well and any serious
on this mini modeller will probably replace the
are superbly pipes with a couple of pieces of
sculpted and guitar string, unless you have the
one thing that patience of a saint and are willing
I really find to clean the pour points from the
astonishing pipes…
is that you
can see the Overall, I’m very impressed with
torment and this miniature. The casting quality
anguish on is very high and the miniature is
Ollyver’s face. full of details that were beautifully
Seb has done sculpted by a very talented guy.
a fantastic Again, the resin version is limited to
job…and it 500 copies, so be quick.
doesn’t stop
there. The
miniature is
Dodger by Terry Cowell

Details
Price: £13.09
Size: 32mm
Material: Resin

Out of the 6 Twisted limited he is completely


collectors edition figures available, at one with his
Dodger was the first sculpt from the mono-wheel.
game I came across. I had a preview He has a
at Salute 2013 and remember flowing cloak
thinking to myself at the time that and scarf with
this was a wonderful spin on such an extended
a well-known character. Plans were feather, which
revealed in 2013 to develop the globally allow
Twisted miniatures into a full game the pose to

91
and from a fan’s perspective, I felt feel and look
that it needed to be something believable.
special to emerge successfully
amid the increasing popularity of He arrives
steampunk miniatures and games. packed in the
same way as previously described the design that makes me believe
I confess to not gaming much, but and also comes with a character this was well thought out before it
I do scrutinise my miniatures and card describing him as close in was sculpted. The face is partially
like most of us at FPM, way too description to the lovable rogue covered by his hat and I have
often! My opinion, as such, means Charles Dickens intended him to be. seen small sculpts where partial
that I am prepared to be far more obscurement often means there
analytical and critical about the There is quite a lot of flash, but due are areas where the detail suffers.
miniature itself, more so perhaps to its scale and the quality of the Not so with Seb’s sculpt--the area
than all the wonderful generals sculpt, it is the type of flash you under the hat, for example, has
out there who mainly focus on the could flick away with a fingernail two tiny eyebrows. It’s a detail that
gaming aspect. and not the type that will become would not be critical to the sculpt
hard work to remove. and would not be noticed without
Dodger is a member of the skirmish close scrutiny. We artisans love and
faction known as ‘the Dickensians’. I could see no visible mould lines appreciate this. The details like this
The other faction currently available on my cast, even after scrutinising are too numerous to mention.
is ‘the Servants of the Empire.’ He it under a lamp using my optivisor.
is in 5 parts consisting of the upper The body section and the mono- My overall impression is that Seb
body, the mono-wheel, a satchel, a wheel are the two parts attached Archer has done a wonderful job
scarf and an extended arm holding to a sprue; most sections will come and I look forward to seeing the
a pistol. away with a little effort using a future releases from Demented
scalpel type tool, but care will be Games for the Twisted game.
He is a wonderful fusion of the needed when removing the end of Dodger is one of the highlights for
Victorian character and machine. his cloak to avoid creating a little me, but I imagine we will all have
When assembled, the character additional fixing work. our favourites.
has an exciting dynamic. He has
one arm extended as though he is The detail of the sculpting is
firing his pistol and is leaning back commendably high quality. It’s not
to do so in a manner that suggests just the level of perfection, but also
Launcelot by Marta Slusarska

Details
Price: £13.09
Size: 32mm
Material: Resin

According to the bit of fluff that can really nicely in


be found on the website, Launcelot the steampunk
is one of the servants of the Engine universe,
— a noble and honourable knight featuring all its
who is under the control of the iconic elements
Engine. He mercilessly fights all (goggles,
those who become a threat to his mechanical
master. parts, sprockets,
and relevant
First of all...it’s seriously tiny. To be ornaments).
92

fair, right now it’s really hard for


me to even see past its size. As The details of
you may know, the past few years the sculpt are
I’ve been focusing on bigger scale, just superb.
mostly busts, so the contrast here Some of them can be truly The only thing I worry about a little
is just enormous. But I must say, appreciated only with some visual is the pour entry points. Some of
the concept for this miniature is aid. Of course you can see them them are rather thick in diameter
superb. You can see concept art with naked eye, but the macro lens (at least compared to the size of
as well as the painted version and of the camera or an optivisor really the miniature) and placed in areas
you must admit, it’s lovely and fits helps to appreciate the fine work that might be more difficult to
of the sculptor and caster. Painting manoeuvre around. The one at the
some of them will be most definitely end of the rifle especially seems like
a challenge for my eyes and hand. it may cause problems if you’re not
careful and gentle enough. Don’t
The face, or rather facial mask, get me wrong. It’s far from some of
seems to be flawless and properly the things I have had to deal with
painted will be a great focal point in the past, but the fragility of the
for sure. All the other details are part in question makes it more of a
nicely sculpted and crisp. There are challenging.
slight mould lines that can be seen
on the small energy gun resting in This is a really beautiful tiny little
the holster and on some places on piece and I imagine it being a very
the main body, but they’re rather frequent guest not only on gaming
tiny and should be easy to remove. tables, but also on competition
stands and display cabinets. The
All detached parts have small pins, quality of the cast, the amount of
making it much easier to assemble details and subject in general will
the miniature correctly and safety. make it popular for sure.
For me personally, I’d be tempted
to try and use longer metal pins;
however, some of the parts are too
thin to drill holes in them without
risk.
PAINTING
Whatever the project,
whatever the need.
We have the tools for you.
Stockists of
• Vallejo
• Scalecolor
• Mr. Hobby
• Modelmates

www.modeldisplayproducts.co.uk
: : SHOW REPORT

Gen Con 2015 Show Report


If you have never been to Gen Con before, then you need
to go — go at least once. Put it on your bucket list and check
it out. I often call it the ‘Mecca of Our People’, because as a
94

geek you will probably never find such a huge gathering of


gamers and geeks outside of Comic Con.
By Shoshie

You can’t see all of Gen Con in


just four days, so be prepared to
prioritise once you get there.

My family and I have gone to Gen


Con since the second year it was
in Indianapolis and since then it
has become a tradition. As a figure
painter and a miniature gamer, I
look forward to taking classes each
year from professionals from all
over. I scope out the massive dealer
hall for new miniature companies
and new products and miniatures
that I might acquire for future
projects. Gen Con is also a great
chance for the figure painter to
meet others with similar interests
and network and socialise.

This year I took part in only one of


the two major painting competitions
that happen at Gen Con. One
is the official Gen Con Painting
Competition and the other is
Privateer Press’ P3 Grand Master
SHOW REPORT : :

95
Championship. I was also able to My first day of Gen Con I wore my would become very crowded. I
sign up for workshops taught by very first cosplay, a femme Han also took a workshop from Spanish
two master class level painters; Solo. It made me pretty easy to Painter Angel Giraldez who was in
Marike Reimer from the U.S. and recognize and I got a lot of smiles the States to help the folks from
Angel Giraldez from Spain. and people stopping to take their Infinity market their miniature
photo with me. I spent the day game. Angel taught us how to paint
I got to demo games like trying to get through as much of camouflage on a Marine grunt.
Warmachine and Infinity and meet the dealer hall as possible, because
up with painters from around the I knew that come Saturday the The second day of the con was
world. weekend pass folks would arrive spent socialising with other
and the already busy dealer hall painters, more dealer hall perusing
: : SHOW REPORT
96

and taking another workshop, this


time with US painter Marike Reimer.
Her class was all about Non­Metallic
Metals. The workshop was primarily
lecture style with her explaining
her techniques in a show and tell
format. I took lots of photographs
and notes. One of the best parts of
the workshop was getting to ask her
questions about her approach and
also getting to see her actual work
right up close.

Saturday I got up really early to


stand in line to get Con­exclusive
and pre-release miniatures from
Privateer Press. It was also the last
day to enter the P3 competition,
which I had been putting it off until
the last minute. I got a chance to
demo the game Warmachine (even
though I already knew how to play)
in order to collect cool promo cards
and took lots of pictures of the
SHOW REPORT : :

97
studio paint jobs in the display case
they had in their booth.

Sunday I took another workshop


from Angel Giraldez. This time it
was to learn how he paints faces.
We got to keep the two brushes
he provided, the miniature and
since we had signed up for the last
class of the weekend, he even let
us each grab the Vallejo paints he
used to demo. Since this was also
the last day of the dealer hall being
open, I made sure to make one last
pass and pick up any miniatures
I had been coveting. All in all, it
was a very good time and I highly
recommend you put it onto your
bucket list and go at least once in
your lifetime!
i l s o n
k e W
i t h Lu
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W de el t wi lin in
Luke he is mo es us fe ys that , assemb unity, pa things
98

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while that ma f those pumpkin ure com ne of th Luke
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s n t i it e
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Now s a paint a nec
hated facing against or fielding grey
armies, plus I really did believe the
adage that a good standard fully
3 Apart from painting miniatures,
you have also been a collector
with a fair knowledge of all things
painted army would knock your Rackham. Do you still collect
opponent’s confidence and help miniatures and if so, what flavour
you win. I just practiced and tried to piques your interest?
paint every mini to the best of my
ability, not just the character figures Ah, those were the days. Rackham,
that White Dwarf recommended. RIP! With the dissolution of
Rackham, my passion for collecting
I don’t have an art background at diminished. I put a lot of effort into
all. I did study as an architect for 5 getting every single miniature they
years and wanted to pursue that, produced and at one time I don’t
but always struggled when we had think there was a miniature that had
to produce an artist’s render of a been officially released that I didn’t
finished design. I worked for GW have, barring AT-43. Also the fact
and it really helped me progress that I no longer had time to play TT
as you are around it every day, but games meant I could see no point in
like most staff I only played/painted keeping my Rackham collection, so As for collection now, I don’t collect
GW minis. It was many years before I have since been breaking it down any one particular company’s
I found another line that I really and selling it to make room for new minis, but I do still have all my
loved. Rackham! toys. J Devourers that I will never get rid
of and I am amassing
a good collection

99
of minotaurs. Yeah!
Werewolves and
minotaurs are my
flavour now!

4 If I said we all love to dig


up mini treasures now and
again, it can be said that you
did this literally! Please tell
us about the experience
you had during a certain
facebook competition.

If I said we all love to


dig up mini treasures
now and again, it can
be said that you did
this literally! Please tell
us about the experience
you had during a certain facebook
competition.

It’s a funny story. It would normally


be unusual for me to miss an
episode of Michael Bartel’s Beeble
Babble. I find him to be a very
interesting engaging individual
and who doesn’t love that sexy
beard? I was all set to watch ‘that’
episode when Zoë (my wife) said
we had to go food shopping.
Noooooooooooo!
“It’s on YouTube, so you can watch it later”, she reasoned
and plus you won’t win! Well, that I at least agreed with.
Anyway, when we got back I had about 8 or so facebook
messages to say congrats. Congrats about what, I
thought?

I will answer them later—I wanted to watch Beeble.


When my name was called for the smaller BeeSPutty
prize I was happy, but a little disappointed at the same
time. I can’t sculpt and ironically I had won the sculpting
prize. I secretly wanted the Scale 75 one, as I wanted to
try some of their paints. J

When they did the grand draw and my number was


randomly selected, I didn’t even register what Michael
had said; I had to reply later. I just sat there in stunned
silence. I eventually looked at Zoë and just said I won
about 3 times!

The prizes so far have been immense. I haven’t kept it


all myself, as there was so much! I gave some to FPM
for their prize draw and some friends have also had
impromptu gifts.
100

I’d just like to take this opportunity whilst I have the


limelight to thank Painting Buddha for arranging it and all
the companies that took part. I’m still blown away by the
generosity and some of them even added extra bits in!

5 Have you always had a preference for painting


fantasy and sci-fi figures or have you also dabbled
with historical?

I started with sci-fi, but resisted the call of fantasy for


a long time until I found I liked GW Skaven. From that
point onwards, I was sci-fi and fantasy biased for a long
time. I did do some historical stuff once, but only for
gaming. A bunch of my friends got into Napoleonic 6mm
figures and asked me to join and I chose the Russians.
I did an army from little Russia and they had pink and
green uniforms; I think they were actually Ukrainian and
because they were little 6mm Russians at the time, I
guess I fancied I was being a comedian.

I will try my hand at painting some historicals in future


and as a bonus I don’t have to worry about choosing
colours; it’s all there for me. So I guess watch this space,
as they say.

6 I would describe you as an experienced blogger.


Forums you have contributed to include Platoon
Britannica, DragonPainting, CMoN and Putty and Paint. Do
you feel you have gained something from participating
in these groups? Also how do you feel the growth of the
global miniature community on facebook has affected
these forums?
have done to date, but the choice
to do it was easy. I have always
wanted to do something big to see
if I could and when JoeK minis told
me they were releasing this set, I
wanted it badly. Lucky for me, he
agreed to sell it to me after his
Kickstarter finished because I didn’t
back it at the time.

If there is anything extraordinary


about this piece it certainly isn’t my
doing, I can tell you. It’s all there
already. Paul Bonner is a master;
there is no other word for him. The
miniatures were all there; yes, I had
to heavily convert one or two of
them, but only because I wanted
them exactly like the artwork or as
close as I could get it. From then on
it was a simple case of copying the
colours that Paul had used. The only
thing I changed was the rock colour

101
and that was because the colour
clashed from 2D to 3D. I will cover
more about that in the tutorial I am
writing.

If I have learnt anything from doing


such a piece, it would be about
time. Take your time; don’t force
it and rush to get finished, as you
will muck it up and have to do
things again. I rushed it for Salute
and the water wasn’t ready at the
Oh, yes. If it hadn’t been for these before when you wanted to speak time of entry and although it was
forums, I wouldn’t be anywhere near to certain people you would have commented at judging that I had
the level I am now. Before I found to go to the forum they went on. used PVA, I had actually used Water
the Rackham Devourers, I was only I don’t actually think there were Effects from Woodland Scenics, but
GW. I don’t feel being in that world many people like me that used to the lack of drying made it appear
your painting progresses past a regularly visit about 9-10 different so.
point. Everyone that does well in forums every day. With facebook,
that environment has to conform
to the ‘Eavy Metal way of painting
and I just wanted something more. I
the whole world is pretty much
there and their work is easier to
find. I just wish there was a search
8 Having established that you
take inspiration from artists and
illustrators, can you elaborate on
needed to branch out and Rackham engine to find a particular topic. J other people or places you find to
gave me that, because both the be motivating?
figures and the painted work were
ahead of the time. Interest in this
led me to their official forum and
7 The diorama you presented at
Salute 2015 was a bit special.
I love projects that go further than
Blimey, that is a vast question. I think
I will have to use a bit of a cliché
then other forums soon followed. the painting skills. Can you describe answer. I look at everything. I mean
The wealth of information on the Troll diorama and what is it that in real life I see a wall and think that
them and the people were both makes it extraordinary? would make a great bit of scenery on
encouraging and amazing. a base or the colour of a car, you get
Why, thank you. I don’t consider it a the picture. Now, when it comes to
I think social media has all but bit special, to be honest. Don’t get other artists I draw inspiration from
killed off forums now, because me wrong; it’s the biggest thing I nearly everyone’s work.
You don’t have to be one of the I think if it was intended for a show looking for critiques on stuff as
bigger, well known painters to be and if the date I have intended the people invariably give you great
the authority or have a great idea. entry for has passed by, the piece little ideas and sometimes you have
I’ve seen some really badly painted will go into my cabinet or in a box to throw caution to the wind and try
models, but thought them.
what a great idea
they had and have
blatantly plagiarised
it. I have always
 In your toolbox,
apart from your
favourite paintbrush,
given credit to what piece of
where I have gotten equipment or
it from. I think it material would you
helps. fret without?

When people ask Strangely, my phone!


me how I have done Not really miniature
something and related is it? This
then gone off and follows on from the
done it themselves, last question. Like
especially when it most people, I am
looks great, it gives not often without
you a warm happy my phone. I have
feeling. J set up some folders
102

and I put lots of

9 I have noticed
that when
you call a project
stuff in there. If I’m
going to a show, my
shopping list goes
finished you often in there. If I run out
go back and work of a paint, it goes in
it some more, there and the most
even if this is for important bit is that
your own personal if I get an idea I can
satisfaction. Describe jot it in there, too.
your process No need for pens or
from planning to paper and invaluably
perfection. When do it has a camera, so
you call it done and I can grab pictorial
actually mean it? references. It is the
perfect hobbyist’s
Lol. When it stops tool; if I want to
annoying me! remember how
Perfection is a bold statement and out of the way. I still might not be someone is painting something,
not a word I would saddle my work completely happy, but there has out comes the phone and (so long
with, far from it to be honest. I am to be a point where I force myself as they don’t mind) it’s now a video
the biggest critic of my own work to move on and apply what I’m camera! Oh, I can make phone calls
(after my wife)! The problem I have not happy with to the next model, on it, too!
is I will do something and be happy, making it my next, ‘This is my best
then a couple of days later I look
at it again and then think I can do
it better, but instead of leaving it I
piece yet’ model!

I do plan most of my stuff that I


 A while ago you published
a tutorial on applying water
effects and then on your Troll project
can’t help myself, I just do! want to convert if needed and what you developed your skills again. Are
colours I want to use. They all get we going to see something even
I have redone the water on this troll written down. That’s not to say it’s more ambitious and aquatic based?
diorama 4 times now and I am not not open to change, as I think each I’m deliberately trying to pin you
totally happy with all of it. As soon project evolves in different ways down, because I’m selfishly keen to
as I work out a way of changing it, and in directions you may not have see more!
I will. intended, especially when you’re
There is a plan to do a piece that is I think what others before me have secrets and this hobby is about
totally underwater. To be honest, I’m said. Practice, practice and more fun and sharing for me. The great
scared at the prospect practice. I mentioned practice painters which we aspire to be like
because by the time sheets. I have a stack of small share their knowledge and us mere
the water is ready pieces of plastic card and I practice mortals then get a chance to try and
to pour I would on these before I paint a miniature. recreate their master pieces. People
have fully painted if I’m not too sure how to go about like Alfonso Giraldes, Rafael García
everything and doing something. The only other Marín and John Harrison and his
spent many hours thing is pick as many peoples Weekend Workshops are a great
already. If the water brains as you can. Never be afraid source.
goes wrong, it will be
only good for the bin. I It always surprises me when people
don’t want to say much who have so much ability don’t
more than that at the perceive their work as highly as
moment, as it may everyone else can. They fail to see
change. what we see or have trouble coming
to terms with seeing themselves in

 What goals
have you set
yourself for the year
that way. I know many wonderful
artists like this and the trait they
share in common is that they keep
ahead? Any exclusive innovating and returning with better
reveals just between work.
us?

103
One of my esteemed and
I will be at Euro respected colleagues at
again this year FPM (Sean Fulton) wrote
with a few entries something I found to be
and my goal is poignant and that I feel
to better my applies well to Luke
awards so far. Wilson. ‘All masters
I have only were students
ever managed once and
a commended true masters
in my first two always remain
outings. I’d love students.’
to take a 1st,
2nd or 3rd, but Luke still sees himself
I guess that isn’t as very much a student
really in my hands, of our art, but somewhere
so fingers crossed. Other along his journey he
than that, I am painting the amassed the kind of skills
Tooth Fairy from Broken and knowledge that rightfully
Toad at the moment and I am place him alongside many of our
trying to be ambitious and do other wonderful British talents.
something I have never done
before. If I pull it off, I think it will Luke…you go girl! J
look rather special; if not, it will look
a total mess. I don’t really want to
say too much just yet, since it’s still
being planned as I’m not wholly
sure how to achieve it. However, the
practice sheets are promising. to ask someone
how they did something.

 Finally, what advice could you


offer to FPM readers to help
us along our own journey towards
Most people will only be too happy
to help, if they won’t well for me
that will differentiate between good
miniaturetopia? and great painters. I don’t have
MINIATURE
HEROES
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Building & Painting a Ruined
Marble Columns Base

By Thor Intararangson

105
Marble is one of the materials that is sometimes seen painting called “Marbleising or faux marbling”. It is a
painted on dioramas, vignettes or bases, especially painting technique used to imitate the appearance of
when it is a scene of a castle, temple or church. The polished marble. Many people use this technique to
colour and pattern of this material can make the scene decorate interior walls or their kitchen and you can
look more attractive rather than grey or brown stone, find many video tutorials for this painting technique on
concrete or red brick, but it is also one of the materials YouTube (search for “faux marble”).
that is quite difficult to paint. I once tried to paint it
on my base and I was satisfied with the result at that I got inspired by this technique and used it as a
moment, but after a while I wanted to paint it again and reference, but some details were applied so as to be
try to make it look more realistic. Therefore, I searched appropriate for painting in small scale. Here is the
for references on the internet and found this type of process of my experiment for this method.
1. I started by making a column. I used DAS modelling
1 clay to sculpt it. This clay is easy to use, can soften with
water, dries hard, has a smooth surface and it is cheaper
than epoxy.

2-3. I sculpted the column in a cylinder shape and rolled


it with the plain side of a metal box. The box surface was
covered with wax paper so it will not stick to the clay.
The tip for this method is to try not to press the weight
from your hand while rolling; it will be an oval column
instead of a cylinder if you press too hard.

2 3
106

4 5

4. After it completely dried (12-24 hours), I cut it in two 5. I have planned to make this plinth as a destroyed
pieces and used side cutter pliers to create damage castle or temple, so it will have the decorative wall or
effects on the broken area. I also decorated the column roof tiles fallen all over the place. Therefore, I made a
with a thinned clay sheet wrapped around the bottom, clay sheet by rolling a lump of clay with a round pen until
merged the seam, then blended it with water. it stretched and was thin.

The plinth was made from a plastic container for tooth


picks. I obliquely cut the top of the container, then made
the groundwork by filling the bottom with plaster and
filling the rest with clay.
6 7

6. I used wood strips (chopsticks or you can use other 7. After it has dried, the surface was not smooth enough
things that have equal thickness) and put these on both and had some little wavy areas. I solved this problem
sides of the clay; it will help to set the same thickness with Tamiya putty diluted with thinner and painted over
for the whole sheet of clay. I then rolled the clay with a the whole sheet as well as the columns, then sanded
round pen or pencil until the thickness is the same as the with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper.
wood strips.

107
8 9

8. I drew a square grid on the sheet and cut the pieces 9. After I prepared all of the elements for the
with an art knife, then sanded the sides with sandpaper. groundwork, it’s time to put it all together. As you can
You can see some of them were cut as broken tiles. see, I collected crushed plaster and red brick in a small
box, as well as pebbles, crushed dry leaves, soil, sand,
etc., in order to make it easy to find and use. I also glued
both columns on the base and sanded the excess that
hung over the edge, so it was flush with the plinth.

The groundwork was done by sprinkling crushed red


brick with a spoon and gluing it on the base with white
glue (adhesive latex) diluted with water. I dropped
diluted white glue on top of the bricks and let it absorb
the glue into the bottom. I repeated this process and
added more elements such as large pieces of plaster
and tiles until it covered all of the ground and looked like
a pile of debris.
10 11
108

10-13. Here are the finished photos


of the base. I let the glue dry for
12-24 hours. It dries hard and strong
enough to hold everything together
and it will not easily fall off. I also
added a pole (maybe a baluster or
12 some other decoration) made from 13
a plastic tube and copper rod, in
order to fill the space in that area
and make it proper in composition.
14 15

14. The painting was started by priming the whole base 15. In order to make a marble look realistic, I tried to
with Chaos Black spray from Citadel. I chose to paint create the small grains on the marble surface as I saw it
the column in cream marble and started with the base in the reference photos. I used the “Sponge Technique”
colour mixed from Vallejo Model Color 70837 Light Sand for this method. It was done by cutting a sponge into

109
+ 70871 Leather Brown + 70820 Off White and applied it small pieces, dipping it in the colour and tapping it on
on both columns. the surface. You can see in the picture, if the sponge is
soaked with colour, it created small patches of colour
(right). If you want to create small spots on the surface
(left), keep tapping the sponge on paper or tissue until it
absorbs the colour enough to create the small spots that
you prefer.

16 17

16. Here is an example of the paper that I used to test the 17. I applied the first layer of grains on the column with
colour on the sponge before I tapped it on the column, dark colour. It was mixed from the base colour with a
so I can have the small spots on the surface rather than little bit of 70871 Leather Brown in order to make it a bit
colour patches. darker, then applied all over the column. You can see the
colour is close to the base colour at the moment, but it
will be darker when completely dried.
18 19

18. Here is the finished first layer and the colour looks 19. For the second layer, I used a bright colour mixed
more brownish. It was done only with the sponge from base colour with a little bit of white in order to make
110

technique. I tapped and wiped it until the colour was it a bit brighter. Again, I applied it on the column with
covered most of the surface, but still able to see the the sponge technique on some areas and left the rest to
base colour (it depends on how many grains you prefer). show the previous colours.

20 21

20. My tip for the sponge technique is that if I make a 21. On the areas that the sponge could not reach, I used
mistake by applying too much colour on the same area an old paint brush, especially one with the tip spread
and creating a patch instead of small dots, I will wipe it apart, and painted dots by repeatedly pressing or
immediately with the clean side of the sponge, then wipe tapping.
or tap in a circle in order to create stains or spots. It will
be easy to cover it later with other colours rather than
cover a whole patch.
22 23

22. The third layer was the brightest colour and mixed 23. The fourth layer was a grey shade mixed from base
from base colour with more white; I applied it on some colour and 70995 German Grey. I applied it beside the

111
areas as well. previous colour (third layer) and just a few spots on some
areas. Try not to overdo with this colour. If you apply it
too much, it will become grey marble instead of cream.

24 25

24. The fifth layer was a brown shade mixed from 70871 25. I added the final highlight on the column with third
Leather Brown with a bit of the base colour. This colour layer colour (base colour mixed with white). This brings
will be stand out more than the others. I tried to apply to a close the first part of this tutorial. I hoped you have
it clustered together, so it will look like a pattern on the found it useful and hope you’ll continue reading next
column when viewed from a distance. month. J

Thor Intararangson
A Free Plinth
Every Month
Simply upload an image of
your painted miniature to
our facebook page and the
miniature with the most
likes in one month wins a
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courtesy of

www.modeldisplayproducts.com
113

Hammerers Standard Bearer by Sergey Chasnyk


Saladin by 101st Airborne
Michael Hazell Michael Hazell
114

32’ Ford 3 window


Coupe by Anthony
Rodriguez
115
Mona by Stuart Thomas

Roman legionary by Tony Polizzi Roboute Guilliman by Lil Legend Studio

Skaven Warbringer by Philipsen Johan


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