Chapter

Plant-Based Sunscreens:
Innovations and New Formulations
Cristina Lungu, Adina Catinca Grădinaru and Bianca Ivănescu

Abstract

This book chapter corresponds with the modern trends that aim to include natural
plant compounds and vegetal extracts in dermocosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Today,
there is an increased tendency to obtain new cosmetic formulations that are eco-
friendly, non-toxic, hypoallergenic, and possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
effects. In this perspective, the main purpose of this chapter is to review the applica-
tions and limitations of some natural compounds and vegetal extracts (Aloe vera,
Mauritia flexuosa, Elaeagnus angustifolia, Punica granatum, Daucus carota, Cocos
nucifera, and others) in skin photoprotection and to present the latest topical formula-
tions based on plants developed to increase their effectiveness.

Keywords: sunscreen, UV radiation, natural compounds from plants, vegetal extracts,

modern formulations

1. Introduction

Sun exposure plays a significant role in human health, offering both benefits and
risks. Moderate sun exposure is the primary natural source of vitamin D synthesis,
which is crucial for bone health and immune function. Sunlight increases melano-
genesis, which acts as a natural sunscreen and has an anti-inflammatory effect in
some cutaneous conditions such as acne, psoriasis, and eczema. It is also linked to
improved mood and circadian rhythm regulation [1, 2]. However, the positive effects
are outweighed by the risks associated with prolonged or unprotected exposure to
ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
The sun emits three types of UV radiation: UVA (315–400 nm), UVB (280–
315 nm), and UVC (100–280 nm). Although UVC radiation has the highest energy in
the UV spectrum and is the most harmful to human DNA, inducing carcinogenesis,
it is largely absorbed by the Earth’s ozone layer and does not reach the surface [3].
About 90–99% of UVA and 1–10% of UVB rays reach the Earth’s surface, having a
substantial impact on skin and overall health [1]. UVB rays are only capable of reach-
ing the epidermis and are primarily responsible for sunburns, as they damage the
DNA in epidermal cells, triggering inflammation and redness. UVA rays are able to
penetrate deep into the dermis and accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin
fibers, leading to premature aging, wrinkles, and loss of skin elasticity. They cause
photoaging, immunosuppression, and skin cancer [3]. Chronic exposure to both UVA
and UVB radiation increases the risk of skin cancers, including basal cell carcinoma,
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Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

squamous cell carcinoma, and the more aggressive melanoma. UV radiation causes
DNA mutations, oxidative stress, and immune suppression, all of which contribute to
carcinogenesis [4].
Overexposure can cause hyperpigmentation issues such as melasma and age spots
and can damage the skin microbiome, reducing host immunity. UV rays can also harm
the eyes, contributing to cataracts and macular degeneration. Excessive UV exposure
may suppress the immune system, reducing the skin’s ability to combat infections and
increasing susceptibility to diseases. It can also exacerbate autoimmune conditions
like lupus and increase oxidative stress in tissues, potentially accelerating aging and
chronic disease development [2].
In recent years, other types of radiation with less energy, have been shown to
possess deleterious effects on human health, such as blue light, near-infrared radia-
tion, and long UVA. Near-infrared radiation is involved in photoaging along with
UVA radiation [5]. Exposure to blue light from smartphones, computers, tablets, and
electronic devices in general greatly contributes to extrinsic skin aging. Blue light
penetrates up to 1 mm into the dermis and induces the formation of free radicals,
resulting in DNA damage, hyperpigmentation, skin aging, and deregulation of the
circadian rhythm [6].
To mitigate the harmful effects of UV radiation, sunscreens are formulated with
UV filters that either absorb, reflect, or scatter harmful rays. UV filters are broadly
classified into organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical) filters. Organic UV filters
absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat through a photochemical reaction,
preventing the rays from penetrating the skin. These filters are composed of aromatic
compounds that contain conjugated double bonds, which allow them to absorb spe-
cific UV wavelengths. Since UVB causes immediate and serious sunburn, most organic
UV filters protect against UVB rays, and only a few can protect against UVA rays
[1]. Because each filter has a limited spectral band of absorption, in order to achieve
broad-spectrum protection, they are mainly used in combination, with the maximum
additive concentration ranging from 2 to 20% in the EU, USA, China, and Japan [7].
Inorganic filters, also known as mineral filters, act by reflecting and scattering UV
radiation away from the skin. They are composed of non-toxic, naturally occurring
minerals (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) and are generally considered safer and more
environmentally friendly. Inorganic filters offer broader coverage by blocking both
UVB and UVA radiations and are more photostable. They are less likely to cause aller-
gic reactions or irritation by penetrating only up to the dermis layer, making them
ideal for sensitive skin types. The disadvantage of giving a white appearance to the
skin on application may be overcome by incorporating these filters in microparticles
and nanoparticles [8, 9].
Organic UV filters may cause skin irritation, allergic, and photoallergic contact
dermatitis. They are lipophilic molecules that may be absorbed and accumulated in
the adipose tissue, leading to systemic effects (endocrine-disrupting effects, cytotox-
icity, neurotoxicity, and behavioral changes). Some compounds are unstable under
exposure to ultraviolet radiation and may trigger phototoxic reactions, adding extra
oxidative damage to skin cells [2, 10]. To mitigate this effect, different antioxidants
(retinol, ascorbic acid, and tocopherol) have been included in sunscreen formulations
[8]. Another disadvantage of conventional UV filters is the harmful effect on ecosys-
tems, which negatively impacts the human body [4].
The demand for natural, safe, and sustainable alternatives to synthetic UV filters
has driven significant interest in plant-based compounds and extracts for sunscreen
formulations. These natural ingredients provide protection against ultraviolet (UV)
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radiation while often offering additional skin benefits, such as antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties [2]. Some plant compounds contain chromophores that
absorb UV radiation and convert it into harmless heat, similar to synthetic chemical
filters. Plant compounds with aromatic rings usually show a broad absorption spec-
trum with a wavelength range of 200–400 nm [1].
Antioxidants present in plant extracts neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS),
mitigating the oxidative stress induced by UV radiation. Moreover, plant-derived
compounds often possess anti-inflammatory properties that soothe the skin and reduce
erythema (sunburn). Notable natural compounds that can be used in sunscreen for-
mulations are polyphenols (epigallocatechin gallate from green tea; proanthocyanidins
from grape seed; flavonoids like apigenin, quercetin, rutin, kaempferol; phenolic acids,
such as ferulic acid and caffeic acid), carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, and lutein),
seed oils (shea butter, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, rosehip oil, and grapeseed oil), volatile
oils (chamomile, lavender), and alkaloids (sanguinarine, piperine, and caffeine) [2, 11].
This chapter presents an overall profile of the plant extracts or compounds with
UV-filter activity, their main biological effects, their mechanisms of anti-UV activity,
and modern nano-formulations that can increase their activity. The review is based on
articles published in the last 5 years, retrieved by searches of the following electronic
databases: Web of Science, Pubmed, Google Scholar, Elsevier, and Wiley. Only articles
including plant extracts or natural compounds from plant sources were selected. The
following keywords were used: sunscreen, SPF, sun protection factor, and UV filter.
All keywords were searched individually and in combination.

2. P
 lant-based UV protection agents in sunscreens

One of the primary benefits of plant extracts and compounds as UV filters is their
natural ability to absorb and reflect harmful UV radiation. These phytochemicals
work by either absorbing UV rays or acting as physical barriers to reduce the penetra-
tion of harmful radiation into the skin. Plant-based UV filters are often rich in anti-
oxidants, which play a vital role in neutralizing free radicals caused by UV exposure,
thereby helping to prevent skin aging and cellular damage [12]. These antioxidants
can protect the skin from oxidative stress and inflammation, reducing the risk of
sunburn, premature aging, and skin cancer. Unlike synthetic chemicals, plant extracts
provide a more holistic form of protection by not only shielding the skin from UV
damage but also supporting its recovery and regeneration [2].
One of the major concerns with conventional sunscreens is their use of potentially
harmful synthetic chemicals, such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, and parabens. These
chemicals can sometimes cause skin irritation, allergies, or hormonal disruptions
[7]. In contrast, plant-based sunscreens are typically less likely to cause such adverse
reactions. The natural origin of these compounds makes them more suitable for
individuals with sensitive skin or those seeking to avoid exposure to harsh synthetic
substances. For example, aloe gel is widely known for its soothing and anti-inflamma-
tory properties, making it ideal for calming sunburned or irritated skin [13].
Another significant advantage of using plant extracts as sunscreens is their
sustainability and minimal environmental impact. Many chemical-based sunscreens,
particularly those containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, have been shown to harm
marine life by contributing to coral reef degradation. Plant-based sunscreens, on the
other hand, are biodegradable and typically have less harmful effects on the environ-
ment, making them a better option for eco-conscious consumers [14].
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Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

Plant name/natural Type of extract and Mechanism of action Formulations Ref.

compound plant parts used

Agave americana Ethanolic extract of Aa extract: SPF of 9.95; Formulations with [15]
var. americana (Aa) leaves Am extract: SPF of 5.84; phytosomes (with
A. americana var. phytosome formulations 20–40 mg dry
marginata (Am) with Aa extract had SPF ethanolic extract)
activity of 9.96–13.3 (with
40 mg extract and 60 mg
soy lecithin)

Aloe vera Aloe vera-loaded solid In vitro SPF value of Solid lipid [16]
liquid nanoparticles 16.9 ± 2.44; nanoparticles
in vivo SPF value of
14.81 ± 3.81

Astragalus Ethanolic extract SPF of 38.55 ± 0.85 due to — [17]

monspessulanus antioxidant activity

Baccharis antioquensis Polyphenol Highest SPF value Oil-in-water (O/W) [18]

extracts from the (21.9 ± 3.3) was obtained for emulsions of the
leaves, in different the methanolic extract extracts alone or
solvents (ethanol, mixed
methanol, hexane,
dichloromethane,
ethyl acetate)

Buddleja salina (the Ethanolic extract Antioxidant, O/W emulsion [19]

false olive) from leaves and stem antiproliferative activity
against human dermal
fibroblasts;
SPF value of 16.1 and UVA
protection factor (UVAPF)
values of 6.45

Calceolarioside Isolated from the HRE, MYC, and CAL — [20]

(CAL), myconoside leaves of Haberlea significantly reduced
(MYC), and Haberlea rhodopensis intracellular ROS formation
rhodopensis methanol in UVR-exposed HaCaT
extract (HRE) cells; modulation of redox
homeostasis;
CAL is a potent natural
NRF2 activator

Calea fruticosa N-hexane, ethyl Highest SPF value (9.665) Sunscreen [21]
acetate, and ethanol was obtained for the UVA-UVB 5%
aerial parts extracts ethanolic extract (0.1 mg/ Pemulen TR-1 gel
mL) due to coumarin mixed with the
content and its antioxidant extracts
activity
Extracts showed synergistic
action on the sunscreen

Carpobrotus edulis Aqueous leaf extract Photoprotective activity Oil in cream [22]
(absorption in UV region) emulsion
Catechins Isolated from Uncaria Antioxidant properties O/W emulsion with [23]
gambir leaves SPF 16 Cera alba, tween 80,
cetyl alcohol, and
stearyl alcohol

Cistus ladanifer Labdanum resin Antiaging [24]

Anti-inflammatory activity
due to its flavonoid fraction

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Plant name/natural Type of extract and Mechanism of action Formulations Ref.

compound plant parts used

Cocos nucifera Ethanolic husk fiber Photoprotection due to Emulsions of various [25]
extract phenolic compounds concentrations of
extract 5–20% in
lanette base

Cocos nucifera Dark and light- Light-colored lignin Combinations with [26]
colored lignin from exhibits a higher level of UV plain cream and SPF
coconut husk absorption; cream (with various
Addition of 4% lignin into a concentrations of
commercial sunscreen led to lignin of both types)
nearly a twofold increase in
SPF and UVAPF value

Cyperus rotundus Aqueous extract of Antioxidant — [27]

(nutsedge) tubers SPF 5.794

Calendula officinalis, Marigold petals, carrot Antioxidant due to phenolic — [28]

Daucus carota, roots, tomato fruits, content;
Solanum and hop cones (water/ SPF determined by
lycopersicum, water and propylene spectrophotometric method
Humulus lupulus glycol/oil extracts) (hop water extract SPF 21)

Curcuma longa, Turmeric powder, Photoprotection due Coconut oil-based [13]

Daucus carota, carrot seeds, green to compounds with sunscreens
Camellia sinensis, tea extract, aloe gel, antioxidant activity;
Aloe vera, beeswax, coconut oil SPF values of 33.43 and
Cera flava, 33.50
Cocos nucifera

Daucus carota Carrot extract Carrot extract was as — [29]

effective as SPF 15 in
preventing apoptosis of
mouse fibroblasts exposed
to UVB; an antioxidant

Daucus carota Carrot seed oil SPF value of 0.1 for the in — [30]
vitro determination and 2.5
for the in vivo determination

Gamma-oryzanol, Gamma-oryzanol- SPF = 34 due to the presence Topical xanthan [31]

Daucus carota, loaded NLCs, of both inorganic and gum nanogel
Vitellaria paradoxa, nanosized UV filters, organic UV filters, the
Cera flava carrot seed oil, potent antioxidant gamma-
shea butter, beeswax oryzanol, and natural oils,
with synergistic effects

Daucus carota Carrot root extract, Photoprotection from blue Lipophilic [32]
carrot seed oil, light: in the 415—455 nm complex
sunflower oil, canola wavelength range associated (Carotolino)
oil, beta-carotene, with oxidative stress,
tocopheryl aceatate Carotolino (0.4%) reduced
blue light by 97%

Dalbergia sissoo Leaves aqueous Leaves and fruit extracts Gel formulations [33]
extract, fruits have moderate SPF; with 1 mg/ml
aqueous extract, bark bark extract has shown SPF extract
aqueous extract value (39.38) higher than
positive control (33.76);
antioxidant, DNA
protection, and anti-
proliferative activity

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Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

Plant name/natural Type of extract and Mechanism of action Formulations Ref.

compound plant parts used

Dihydroquercetin — Emulsion with 0.5% DHQ Fast inverted oil- [34]

(DHQ ) and 2% βC has SPF 5.19, in-water emulsion/
Quercetin (Q ) emulsion with 0.5% DHQ SWitch-Oil-Phase
Beta-carotene (βC) has SPF 4.65, and emulsion (SWOP) emulsions
with 0.5% Q has SPF 3.35

Elaeagnus angustifolia 70% methanolic SPF values of formulations Emulgel (emulsion [35]
extract of leaves with 2–8% EAPE was in type O/W) with
(EAPE) the range of 6.37 ± 0.14 to EAPE, sesame oil,
21.05 ± 0.85 and sea buckthorn
oil

Elaeocarpus N-hexane, ethyl Antioxidant activity; — [36]

floribundus acetate, and methanol SPF values of methanol
leaf extracts extract were 45.470,
44.791, 43.754, 38.861,
and 21.102 for 1000, 800,
600, 400, and 200 μg /mL,
respectively

Epigallocatechin Isolated from green Antioxidant activity Formulations with [37]

gallate tea leaves protects fibroblasts from 10 wt% EA NPs
oxidative-stress damage; (epigallocatechin
broad-spectrum UV gallate/
absorption and lower aminobenzoic acid
UV transmittance than nanoparticles)
commercial sunscreens with
SPF 15 and 30

Erica australis Aqueous extract of Antioxidant activity: Flower O/W emulsion [38]
flower extracts showed a negligible
SPF value (0.18). The
elaborated sunscreen creams
presented an SPF of 5.8

Helichrysum The ethanolic extract Antioxidant, antiproliferative O/W emulsion [19]

odoratissimum of leaves and stem activity against human
dermal fibroblasts;
SPF value of 16.0 and UVAPF
values of 6.47

Lignin obtained from Light-color lignin 2% lignin nanospheres Lignin nanospheres [39]
Kenaf stalks (Hibiscus added to SPF 30 sunscreen added to
cannabinus) increased SPF value to commercial
67.88; 4% lignin nanosphere sunscreen lotion of
added to SPF 10 sunscreen SPF 10 and 30
increased SPF to 27.84

Moringa concanensis Hexane, chloroform, Photoprotection due to — [40]

methanol, and ethyl antioxidant activity;
acetate stem bark SPF value of 10.50 ± 0.23 for
extracts the chloroform extract

Nephelium lappaceum The ethanolic extract Addition of rambutan total Cream emulsions [41]
(rambutan) of fruit peel phenolics (at concentrations
of 0.25%, 0.50%, and
1.00%) to organic
sunscreens, resulting in an
increase of SPF values of
23.5, 49.6, and 134.9%

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Plant name/natural Type of extract and Mechanism of action Formulations Ref.

compound plant parts used

Oncosiphon Essential oil from the SPF value of 2.299 — [42]

suffruticosum fresh aerial parts photoprotection due to
antioxidant activity

Opuntia ficus-indica Seed pomace extracts SPF value of 8.36 ± 0.53; Oil-in-water [43]
(prickly pear) (a by-product of seed photoprotection due to emulsions
oil extraction) antioxidant activity

Orbignya phalerata Lipophilic extract of SPF of 35.5 ± 3.0, Oil-in-water [44]

(babassu) seeds photostable after 6 h of nanoemulsion
radiation and non-cytotoxic containing babassu
to fibroblast cells lipophilic extract and
low concentrations
of organic sunscreens

P-coumaric acid — SPF value of 36 ± 0.2 and P-coumaric [45]

UVAPF value of 16 ± 0.4; acid-phospholipid
significant reduction of complex-loaded gel
UV-A induced oxidative
stress biomarkers;
enhanced permeation

Pluchea discoridis, 90% methanolic Antioxidant activity: — [46]

Lawsonia inermis, extract of leaves Extracts (1 mg/ml) had
Aloe vera, Eucalyptus SPF values of 18.79 ± 2.01,
camaldulensis 19.97 ± 0.78, 18.85 ± 1.10,
and 17.97 ± 1.24, respectively

Psidium guajava Ethanolic fruit extract Photoprotection due to the Cream with [47]
flavonoid and tannin content guava-fruit extract
improved the photoprotection and 2-ethyl-hexyl
of an organic filter formulation methoxycinnamate
with 134% (SPF 8.1)

Punica granatum Polyphenol enriched Antioxidant activity; Water-in-oil [48]

fraction (PEF) of SPF value of 7.5; emulsions with
pomegranate peel UV-A1/total UV value of 5% zinc oxide-PEF
0.94 nanoparticles

Punica granatum Pomegranate seed oil Cell DNA protection against Pomegranate seed [11]
UVB-induced damage oil nanoemulsion
with pomegranate
peel polyphenol-rich
extract encapsulation

Rutin — Reduced skin erythema, Gelatin [49]

increased UVA radiation nanostructures
photoprotection

Salsola foetida Methanolic extract of SPF values of 21.3 ± 0.03 due — [50]
dried aerial parts to high content of phenols,
flavonoids (anthocyanins),
and antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory effect
Schinus Ethanolic fruit peel SPF values of 20.15–26.82 Emulsion of STPE [51]
terebinthifolius extract (STPE) and for STPE and 5.08–16.41 for or STWFE of 5% or
ethanolic whole fruit STWFE; 10% concentration
extract (STWFE) SPF values of emulsion in Lanette base
extracts varied between 1.25
and 32.40 for STPE and 0.52
and 41.58 for STWFE

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Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

Plant name/natural Type of extract and Mechanism of action Formulations Ref.

compound plant parts used

Spondias purpurea 70% v/v ethanolic SPF value for the extract Formulations [52]
extract of stem bark (14.37 at 0.2 mg/mL and with different
26.16 at 2 mg/mL); concentrations
SPF values of the (0.2–10% ethanolic
formulations obtained in extract of stem
0.2 mg mL−1 (0.495–2.27) bark)
and 2.0 mg mL−1 (2.29–
15.87); antioxidant activity
due to phenolic content

Stenochlaena palustris 70% ethanolic extract SPF value of 9.816; 0.5% [53]
(kelakai) of root erythema transmission microemulsion
percentage of 9.591%; (with 0.1% extract)
pigmentation transmission incorporated into a
percentage of 16.779% gel form

Table 1.
Plants and natural compounds with photoprotective activity.

Some plant compounds, such as the polyphenols found in red algae and certain
fruits, provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. By using
plant-based sunscreens, consumers benefit from natural compounds that can offer
protection across the full spectrum of UV radiation. Their antioxidant properties,
non-toxic nature, and broad-spectrum protection make them a valuable option for
consumers looking to protect their skin from harmful UV rays while also promot-
ing overall skin health [1]. Table 1 lists plants and phytocompounds that have been
investigated as active sunscreen ingredients in the last 5 years.
Despite their advantages, natural compounds used in sunscreens face certain
challenges: lower SPF, stability issues, variability in efficacy, skin penetration, cost
and scalability, and regulatory approval. Most natural extracts provide moderate sun
protection factors, often insufficient for high-performance sunscreens. As a result,
they are typically combined with synthetic filters to meet regulatory standards for sun
protection [54].
Many natural compounds degrade rapidly under prolonged UV exposure, reduc-
ing their effectiveness over time. Stabilizing these ingredients often requires advanced
formulation techniques or the addition of synthetic stabilizers, which may reduce
their appeal as “natural” products [54].
The photoprotective efficacy of plant-based ingredients can vary significantly
depending on factors such as plant species, extraction method, and formulation.
This variability poses challenges for standardization and consistent performance.
In addition, some natural UV filters struggle to penetrate the skin adequately to
provide effective protection, limiting their functionality in topical applications.
Also, the extraction and purification of high-quality natural compounds can be
expensive and resource-intensive, making it difficult to scale production for com-
mercial use [55].
Regulatory frameworks for sunscreen products often require rigorous testing of
efficacy and safety. There are no natural compounds approved as UV filters in the
European Union or USA [14]. Many natural extracts lack the extensive scientific
validation needed to obtain approval, delaying their adoption in mainstream sun-
screen products.
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3. Enhanced sunscreen formulations

Plant extracts and isolated plant compounds have been included over time
in various classic formulations (emulsions, microemulsions, conventional gels,
creams) or modern ones with the aim of increasing their stability, their ability to
spread and penetrate the skin, and improving their organoleptic appearance, but
also to make them as easy to apply as possible and as attractive as possible for those
who use them.
The development of new eco-friendly formulations from renewable sources
represents an increased concern in obtaining cosmeceuticals. Classical sunscreen
formulations predominantly consist of popular emulsion-based products, such as
creams, gel creams, and lotions. Water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions are often favored for
sunscreens due to their ability to deliver high SPF and excellent water resistance.
However, w/o emulsions typically contain a higher oil-to-water ratio, resulting in
a greasy texture and heavier feel, which can make them less appealing compared
to oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions. To address this, fast-inverting o/w emulsions,
also known as Switch-Oil-Phase (SWOP) emulsions, have been developed. These
emulsions invert into w/o emulsions upon application, forming a lipophilic, water-
resistant layer on the skin, making them particularly suitable for sun protection
products. Thus, Radava Martić et al. tested the antioxidant activity and UV absorp-
tion of several SWOP emulsions added with dihydroquercetin and ß-carotene [34].
The SPF of SWOP emulsion that consisted of combining dihydroquercetin and
ß-carotene was the highest (5.19), likely due to the combined effect of both active
ingredients. While β-carotene is not a conventional UV absorber, it may protect
dihydroquercetin from oxidation through its antioxidant properties, thereby
enhancing dihydroquercetin’s UV absorbance. In contrast, the SPF of the emulsion
base S was minimal. These results highlight the good photoprotective potential of
the selected antioxidants when combined with a promising cosmetic carrier like the
SWOP emulsion [34].
Isolated constituents from the crude plant extracts have demonstrated greater
photoprotection capacity compared to the extract. It is the case of two phenyletha-
noid glycosides (calceolarioside and myconoside), isolated from Haberlea rhodopensis
leaves. These compounds could be used in photoprotective formulations, given their
ability to reduce UVA/UVB-induced ROS production, results observed in an in vitro
photoaging model in human keratinocytes. It appears that calceolarioside is a potent
NRF2 activator; meanwhile, myconoside stimulates PGC-1α and TGF-1β/SMAD/Wnt
signaling pathways [20].
The association of coconut oil with Aloe vera gel, turmeric, green tea, and carrot
seed led to a more improved formula, with a protection factor of 33.47. The topical
preparation presented a good safety profile for topical application without mutagenic
effects, irritation, or erythema. In addition, it proved to be homogeneous, uniform,
stable, and presented in vitro a good antioxidant activity [13].
But there are also cases where the addition of a plant extract to a commercial UV
filter with a known protection factor does not result in an improvement in SPF, possi-
bly due to the lack of synergism between the components. Rodrigues et al. managed to
identify a large number of compounds in the stem bark extract of Spondias purpurea
(phenolic acids, tannins, flavonoids and derivatives, and benzophenones), which
explained the high antioxidant activity. Also, the SPF value of the extract was higher
(26.16) than that of octyl methoxycinnamate (SPF 21.84), a substance known for its
photoprotective effect. Unexpectedly, in the formulation that combined the two, a
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Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

decrease in SPF by 9 units (17.16) was detected. However, plant extracts are valuable
sources of compounds that can prevent cellular degradation following exposure to UV
radiation, thus contributing to greater skin protection [52].

3.1 Oil-in-water emulsions

Oil-in-water emulsions (O/W) are frequently used in cosmeceuticals and have high
potential for several industrial areas (pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food). In the
cosmetics industry, water-in-oil emulsions are used in creams and lotions, provding
a hydrating effect and helping deliver moisture deep into the skin. These emulsions
are particularly effective in creating products that offer long-lasting moisture without
feeling greasy, and plant extracts can be easily included in such formulations [56].
An emulgel containing different concentrations of Elaeagnus angustifolia purified
extract from leaves (2, 4, 6, 8%) proved to have good stability for 8 weeks in temperature
variations between 4 and 40°C. The preliminary tests regarding stability led to the
conclusion that the best concentration was 6%, and this formulation had colorless effects
on the skin. The sun protective factor (SPF) for this new emulsion O/W was spectropho-
tometrically detected, and its value of 16.03 makes this species a good, natural candidate
as an alternative to synthetic substances, thus reducing adverse reactions [35]. According
to the European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009, the protection categories based on the
SPF results (in vitro or in vivo tests) are the following: measured SPF 6–14.9 (low protec-
tion), SPF 15–29.9 (medium protection), and SPF 30–59.9 (high protection) [57].
Buddleja salina and Helichrysum odoratissimum are another two plants with anti-
oxidant activity and antiproliferative effects against skin cancer lines. The ethanolic
extracts of leaves and stems of these species were incorporated in two O/W emul-
sions, to which was also added titanium dioxide (Solaveil™ XT-100), in order to
obtain an SPF of 15. The ethanolic plant extracts were added in an amount of 6.0 mg/
mL in each formulation and represented 10% of the ingredients. The good results
obtained in the in vivo skin irritation tests on female volunteers (18–65 years old), but
also the test on the human dermal fibroblast cell line, which attests to non-mutagenic-
ity, correlated with an SPF of approximately 16 and UVAPF (UVA protection factor)
of 6.45 for B. salina and 6.47 for H. odoratissimum, making the two plants valuable
sources of natural ingredients added to products with a photoprotective effect [19].

3.2 Microemulsions

Microemulsions are also used in the cosmetics industry to improve skin penetra-
tion. They are thermodynamically stable mixtures of oil, water, and surfactants,
characterized by their nanoscale droplet size [58].
The 70% ethanolic extract of roots of Stenochlaena palustris with a high content of
flavonoids, alkaloids, and saponins have proven their efficiency in terms of UV pro-
tection of the skin when incorporated into a microemulsion gel. In addition, the gel
formulated with sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and propylene glycol was classified
as “sunblock” in the tests regarding evaluation of erythema transmission percentage
and pigmentation transmission percentage [53].

3.3 Nanostructures

The increasing awareness of the need for effective sun protection has driven inno-
vation in sunscreen formulations, with nanostructures emerging as a game-changing
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Plant-Based Sunscreens: Innovations and New Formulations
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.1009328

technology. Nanostructured systems, such as nanoparticles, liposomes, and

nanoemulsions, have transformed sunscreen development, particularly with plant-
based compounds and extracts as active ingredients. These advanced formulations
offer enhanced UV protection, stability, and environmental sustainability [59].
Nanostructures protect delicate plant compounds, like polyphenols and flavo-
noids, from degradation by light, oxygen, or heat, ensuring prolonged efficacy [4].
Liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles transport active compounds like curcumin
or resveratrol deeper into the skin, providing sustained protection and reducing the
need for frequent reapplication [10]. Phytochemicals serve as safer, biodegradable
alternatives to synthetic UV filters, minimizing environmental and health risks.
Nanostructured formulations create lightweight, transparent, and non-greasy
sunscreens, masking odors and textures of plant extracts for a better user experience
[8]. These systems combine UV protection with skin benefits like hydration, antiag-
ing, and anti-inflammatory effects, addressing diverse consumer needs. Efficient use
of natural resources and biodegradable ingredients reduces the ecological footprint of
sunscreens, especially in marine environments [60].
Advanced research in the field of dermatocosmetics has led to the development
of formulations with phytosomes to improve the absorption of molecules into
the skin. One such study conducted on ethanolic extract from Agave americana
leaves showed that with increasing concentration of plant extract in phytosomes,
an increase in SPF was also observed. In order to obtain phytosomes, varying
concentrations of soy lecithin (50–70 mg), plant extract (20–40 mg), and 10 mg
cholesterol, all dissolved in dichloromethane, were used. The formulated samples
exhibited in vitro SPF values, ranging from 3.86 (control) to 9.96 (formulation with
20 mg extract), 12.2 (formulation with 30 mg extract), and 13.3 (formulation with
40 mg extract) [15].
Also, oil-in-water nanoemulsions prepared by ultrasound have been developed
with the aim of increasing the solubility and stability of lipophilic substances or
extracts. One such example is Orbignya phalerata lipophilic extract from seeds
with a high content of saturated fatty acids (lauric acid 52.64% and myristic acid
15.42%), phenolic compounds, and tocopherols, which was incorporated into an
oil-in-water nanoemulsion along with 4 substances known for their photoprotective
effect. The authors of the study observed an increase in SPF from 28.6 (in the case
of the preparation with benzophenone-3, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl ben-
zoate, octocrylene, and octyl methoxycinnamate) to 35.5 when babassu lipophilic
extract was added. Although the formulation that included only the plant extract
presented SPF < 2, it seems that the synergism of action between the components
led to a more efficient photoprotective preparation, due to the plant compounds
with antioxidant effect [44].
Reis-Mansur et al. proposed preparing some oil-in-water nanoemulsions with 3%
buriti oil (Mauritia flexuosa) and 10% concentrated dry extract of Aloe vera spray-
dried. The formulation named NE-A19, to which they added two synthetic filters
(octyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl methoxycrylene), proved to have satisfac-
tory organoleptic properties, good stability, no phase separation and was safe for
administration. Moreover, the SPF value was 49 [61].
Yingren Liu et al. produced lignin nanospheres for further use in cosmetic
sunscreen formulations. The extracted stabilized lignin was dissolved in a gamma-
valerolactone solution to achieve a concentration of 0.4 mg/mL. The resulting lignin
solution was transferred into a dialysis bag and dialyzed at room temperature for
48 hours. Following this, the extracted lignin was vacuum-dried, and the lignin
11
Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

nanospheres were obtained. The morphology and particle size of the lignin nano-
spheres were measured by scanning electron microscope and a zeta potential tester.
Lignin usually has a darker color, but the one obtained by this group of researchers
has a lighter color, making it easier to use in cosmetic formulations [39].
P-coumaric acid is a hydroxycinnamic acid widely distributed in plants (fruits,
beans, potatoes, tea) that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, inhibiting
UV-B radiation and melanogenesis in cell line culture, but also having a UV-A protec-
tive effect. Unfortunately, it lacks the capacity to penetrate the deeper layers of the
skin for a longer period of time. In this perspective, Biswas et al. have formulated a
complexation of a p-coumaric acid with phospholipid hydrogenated soybean phos-
phatidylcholine in order to increase its permeability to the skin and its stability. This
complex was incorporated in a gel base (carbopol 940) and tested by spectrophoto-
metric methods to determine its SPF value, UV-A protection factor, and photo-sta-
bility. The gel met all the conditions for topical application, and the incorporation of
coumaric acid in a complex increased the penetration capacity into the skin by almost
6 times. In addition, this formulation has a high capacity to protect the skin from UV
radiation: SPF 35.5 and UVAPF 16.2 [45].
Rutin, a therapeutically active flavonoid, has been shown to possess a wide range
of pharmacological activities, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and
anticancer. However, its poor aqueous solubility, low membrane permeability, and
bioavailability limit its therapeutic applications. In order to increase the penetration
of the ingredient into deeper layers of the skin and its benefits in photoprotective
formulations, rutin was frequently associated with nanostructures (ethosome, gelatin
nanocapsules, phytosome, nanocrystal, chitosan/tripolyphosphate nanoparticles).
The encapsulation of rutin into gelatin nanostructures and association with three
known UV filters (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) increased the in vitro value of SPF due to a possible
synergistic effect among constituents [49].
Gamma-oryzanol (GO) is a plant-derived natural antioxidant composed of a mix-
ture of more than ten phytosterol ferulates. Its antioxidant activity is considered to be
up to 10 times stronger than that of vitamin E in rice bran. Beyond its potent antioxi-
dant properties, gamma-oryzanol offers potential skin-protective benefits, including
UV light absorption, intrinsic sun protection factor (SPF)-boosting capabilities, and
reported antiaging effects. Badalkhani et al. developed a topical nanogel containing
gamma-oryzanol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and nanosized UV fil-
ters (TiO2 and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol). This involved
partially replacing UV filters by incorporating and maximizing the amount of the
powerful plant-derived antioxidant (gamma-oryzanol) in the formulations. The
findings indicate that encapsulating GO into the NLCs did not result in an increase in
particle size, instability, or a reduction in the uniformity of the nanoparticles. Thus,
the formulation retained its desirable properties. The optimized nanosystem showed
long-term stability and high photoprotection capacity (SPF = 34), along with no
sensitization or skin irritation [31].
Aloe vera-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles formulated by Rodrigues et al. using
glyceryl monostearate (300 mg) as a lipid and 100 mg aloe powder did not cause skin
irritation or sensitization reactions in in vivo tests performed on Wistar albino rats. In
addition, both in vitro and in vivo SPF tests showed good skin protection against UV
light exposure (SPF = 16.9, respectively 14.81) [16].
The association of a plant such as aloe vera which has demonstrated photoprotec-
tion, with other plant extracts can lead to the development and innovation of much
12
Plant-Based Sunscreens: Innovations and New Formulations
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.1009328

improved formulations. This is also the case of Crocus sativus (safranal)-loaded solid
lipid nanoparticles (SLN), which were incorporated into a cream with aloe vera gel
and almond oil. This product demonstrated good stability and excellent rheological
properties, having an SPF of 9.22 [62].

4. Conclusions

Natural compounds and plant extracts offer promising alternatives to synthetic

UV filters, combining photoprotection with additional skin benefits. Ingredients
such as polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids, and oils have demonstrated efficacy in
absorbing UV radiation, neutralizing oxidative stress, and reducing inflammation.
However, challenges such as lower SPF values and stability issues must be addressed
to optimize their use in commercial sunscreens. Continued research and innovation
are essential to harness the full potential of these natural solutions.
The development of modern instrumental analysis methods and those assessing
the biological activity of plant extracts and natural compounds has led to the creation
of eco-friendly formulations in the cosmetics industry, offering multiple benefits
for users. Innovations in dermatocosmetic formulations represent a significant step
forward, especially as they have demonstrated the absence of adverse reactions,
good skin tolerability, and additional effects in protecting the skin barrier against the
harmful effects of UV radiation due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory prop-
erties. The development of sunscreen products based on plant extracts, either alone
or in combination with synthetic substances known as UV filters, is continuously
growing. Progress in this field supports consumers by offering sustainable products
derived either from raw materials that are by-products of the wood industry or from
renewable sources.
Nanostructured formulations represent a significant advancement in sunscreen
technology, particularly when harnessing the power of plant-based compounds and
extracts. By improving stability, enhancing delivery, reducing chemical load, and
providing multifunctional benefits, these systems offer a superior alternative to tra-
ditional formulations. As consumer preference shifts toward safer, more sustainable
products, nanostructured sunscreens incorporating natural compounds are poised to
become the future of sun protection.

Conflict of interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

13
Cosmetic Industry – Trends, Products and Quality Control

Author details

Cristina Lungu*, Adina Catinca Grădinaru and Bianca Ivănescu

Faculty of Pharmacy, “Grigore T. Popa,” Department of Pharmaceutical Botany,
University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Iasi, Romania

*Address all correspondence to: [email protected]

© 2025 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms of
the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0),
which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided
the original work is properly cited.
14
Plant-Based Sunscreens: Innovations and New Formulations
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.1009328

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