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This document provides a detailed step-by-step guide for painting a Death Guard Plague Marine model, including undercoating, base coating, washing, and highlighting techniques. It covers specific colors and methods for achieving effects on armor, metal, fabric, and organic elements. The final step includes basing the model to match the collector's theme.

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eric.billes
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8 views

bla

This document provides a detailed step-by-step guide for painting a Death Guard Plague Marine model, including undercoating, base coating, washing, and highlighting techniques. It covers specific colors and methods for achieving effects on armor, metal, fabric, and organic elements. The final step includes basing the model to match the collector's theme.

Uploaded by

eric.billes
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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1.

Undercoat the Plague Marine


black. I use Vallejo Surface
Primer and an airbrush. You can
hand paint on a Primer or use
an aerosol.

2. Using a large brush (size 2 or


3) base coat the Death Guard
armour with Loren Forest. Add
a touch of water to thin your
paint and apply two or three
thin coats to get a nice solid,
smooth coat. Don’t worry
about being neat, you can go
over the lines in this step.

3. Wash over all the green


armour with Seraphim Sepia.
Load up a large brush but be
careful as always not to get
Shade in the ferule (metal part
where the bristles are held).
4. Use a dry brush or an old
large split bristled brush and
add some Loren Forest to the
bristles. Then repeatedly wipe
it o on a tissue until the brush
is ‘dry’. Wipe this dry brush
back and forth over the armour
so the residue of paint left on
the bristles picks up on the
raised areas of the armour. You
may have to repeat this several
times.
5. Repeat the dry brush process
in step 4 but this time using
Death Guard Green.
6. Using a ne detail brush (size
00) paint Nurgling Green on the
raised edges of the green
armour. Paint the lines as thin
as you can. See the image
above for placement guidance.

7. Paint all areas that are to be


brass or metal with Warplock
Bronze. Mixing a touch of
Lahmian Medium helps to thin
metallic paints making them
smoother to paint. Mix this on
a mixing palette (white
bathroom tiles make perfect
mixing palettes).
8. Lightly brush on Leadbelcher
on to the areas you want to
metal. This is like a heavy dry
brush, you want decent metal
coverage but you want to see
the Warplock Bronze showing
through (like on the gun casing)
for variance you can paint the
Leadbelcher on more solidly
for example as soon on the gun
barrel above.
9. Apply Brass Scorpion to areas
that are to be brass. Make sure
you leave Warplock Bronze
showing around rivets and in
creases and holes. Warplock is
the shading for the brass.

10. To highlight the brass, use


Runelord Brass on the edges of
the brass areas. Use a nedetail
brush
(size 0 or 00).

11. Paint any fabric areas with


Doombull Brown.

12. Using Nuln Oil wash over


any metal areas (not brass) and
the wash over the Doombull
Brown fabric areas as well.
13. Highlight the edges of the
fabric with Khorne Red. Paint
all the daemonic mutations and
open wounds with Khorne Red.

14. Use Druchii Violet to wash


over all the daemonic
mutations and open wounds.

15. Using small, thin strokes


paint highlight lines of
Emperor’s Children on the
mutations and wounds. You can
use parallel lines to represent
texture on intestines and
tentacles. You can also use
small dots to pick out spots and
bulbous areas. Water your
paint down when it comes to
painting thin strokes, it ows
from the bristles smoothly and
makes painting thin lines easier.

16. Using watered down


Ceramite White (OOP, use
White Scar instead), repeat the
above process but with even
thinner lines painted within the
lines of the Emperor’s Children
lines.
17. Using Bloodletter, cover all
the mutations and wounds with
a glaze. Glazes are great
because it’s like tinting. You can
see all the work through it but
it changes the hue slightly. In
this case it goes a long way to
blending the highlights
together.
18. Heavily water down some
Skrag Brown onto a mixing
palette and then paint it as rust
streaks around rivets and into
crevices. Do this on the green
armour and metal areas (not
brass). Then use Skrag Brown to
basecoat all the areas that are
to be bone. Water your paint
for this but not as heavily as the
rust. Should cover the areas in
two coats.

19. Highlight the bone areas


with Tau Light Ochre. Make
sure you leave Skrag Brown
showing in creases, crevices,
gaps and dents.

20. Highlight the previous layer


further using Ungor Flesh.
Make sure you leave some of
previous layer showing. This is
called layering.
21. Paint on edge highlights of
Screaming Skull to all the bone
areas. Nice thin lines.

22. Paint the areas between the


armour plates (the exible,
ribbed undersuit) and any
exposed ribbed pipes with
Abaddon Black.

23. Use thin lines highlight the


ribs of the undersuit or pipes
with Dawnstone.

24. Paint any bulbous spheres


breaking through the armour
with Yriel Yellow. You may want
to base coat these spheres with
white rst to make the yellow
easier to paint and brighter.
25. Wash over the yellow
spheres with Bloodletter.

26. Paint a thin, vertical eye slit


using Abaddon Black. You can
also paint a horizontal thin line
across the top of the sphere to
represent a glint or shine to
make the eye appear glossy.

Finally,
base your Death Guard Plague
Marine in a way that ts in with
your collection.
I glued sand to the base with
PVA and then painted it with
Zandri Dust highlighted with
Screaming Skull and the base
edge was painted with Steel
Legion Drab.

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