3 2 1 Code It 6th Edition Green Solutions Manual

download

https://testbankfan.com/product/3-2-1-code-it-6th-edition-green-
solutions-manual/

Find test banks or solution manuals at testbankfan.com today!

 We believe these products will be a great fit for you. Click
the link to download now, or visit testbankfan.com
to discover even more!

3 2 1 Code It 6th Edition Green Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/3-2-1-code-it-6th-edition-green-test-
bank/

3 2 1 Code It 5th Edition Green Solutions Manual

https://testbankfan.com/product/3-2-1-code-it-5th-edition-green-
solutions-manual/

3 2 1 Code It 5th Edition Green Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/3-2-1-code-it-5th-edition-green-test-
bank/

First Course in Abstract Algebra 7th Edition Fraleigh

Solutions Manual

https://testbankfan.com/product/first-course-in-abstract-algebra-7th-
edition-fraleigh-solutions-manual/
Prentice Halls Federal Taxation 2014 Individuals 27th
Edition Rupert Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/prentice-halls-federal-
taxation-2014-individuals-27th-edition-rupert-test-bank/

Management A Practical Introduction 6th Edition Kinicki

Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/management-a-practical-
introduction-6th-edition-kinicki-test-bank/

Modern Business Statistics with Microsoft Office Excel 4th

Edition Anderson Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/modern-business-statistics-with-
microsoft-office-excel-4th-edition-anderson-test-bank/

Computing Essentials 2017 26th Edition OLeary Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/computing-essentials-2017-26th-
edition-oleary-test-bank/

Engineers Guide To MATLAB 3rd Edition Magrab Solutions

Manual

https://testbankfan.com/product/engineers-guide-to-matlab-3rd-edition-
magrab-solutions-manual/
Canadian Organizational Behaviour Canadian 9th Edition
Mcshane Test Bank

https://testbankfan.com/product/canadian-organizational-behaviour-
canadian-9th-edition-mcshane-test-bank/
 SECTION
Answer Key to Workbook
V
Appendix E: Mock
Certified Professional
Coder (CPC) Certification
Examination

Copyright © 2018 Cengage Learning®. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
264    Section V   Answer Key to Workbook Appendix E

1. a 39. d   77. c 115. b

2. b 40. c   78. b 116. c
3. c 41. c   79. b 117. c
4. a 42. b   80. b 118. a
5. d 43. a   81. b 119. a
6. d 44. a   82. a 120. c
7. c 45. d   83. d 121. b
8. a 46. b   84. c 122. b
9. d 47. b   85. c 123. a
10. c 48. c   86. a 124. c
11. d 49. c   87. d 125. b
12. d 50. d   88. a 126. d
13. d 51. c   89. a 127. a
14. b 52. d   90. c 128. b
15. a 53. d   91. c 129. d
16. a 54. c   92. d 130. c
17. b 55. a   93. a 131. b
18. b 56. a   94. a 132. a
19. c 57. c   95. b 133. b
20. d 58. a   96. d 134. a
21. d 59. c   97. c 135. d
22. b 60. c   98. d 136. c
23. d 61. b   99. b 137. b
24. c 62. d 100. b 138. a
25. b 63. a 101. c 139. b
26. b 64. b 102. a 140. b
27. b 65. b 103. a 141. b
28. c 66. c 104. d 142. b
29. d 67. a 105. c 143. b
30. c 68. d 106. b 144. a
31. a 69. d 107. a 145. b
32. b 70. c 108. a 146. a
33. c 71. c 109. b 147. a
34. b 72. a 110. d 148. b
35. b 73. b 111. c 149. b
36. c 74. c 112. b 150. c
37. a, b 75. a 113. c
38. a 76. c 114. b

Copyright © 2018 Cengage Learning®. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Random documents with unrelated
content Scribd suggests to you:
 [75] Populus deltoides Marsh.
[76] Populus virginiana Fouger.

The Lombardy poplar[77] is a tall columnar tree adapted for use

on very narrow streets (fig. 14). It is short lived in many places, due
largely to the European poplar canker, but otherwise is a satisfactory
tree for these conditions in all parts of the United States. The trees
may be planted as close together as 30 feet.
[77] Populus italica (Du Roi) Moench.

None of the other poplars have much to recommend them for

street planting.

RUBBER TREE.

The rubber tree[78] is a large-headed handsome evergreen,

suitable for regions 3 and 5 and the southern parts of regions 2 and
13 when the use of an evergreen tree is warranted.
[78] Ficus elastica Roxb.

SILK OAK.

The silk oak,[79] or Australian fern, is a large, handsome tree that

succeeds well in regions 2, 3, and 13; also in region 5 if provided
with a reasonable amount of moisture, as it stands drought
remarkably well. It is covered in early summer with orange-colored
flowers.
[79] Grevillea robusta A. Cunn.

SWEET GUM.

The sweet gum[80] is adapted to regions 11, 12, and 13,

especially on sandy lands. It forms an oval-headed, handsome tree
with star-shaped leaves that assume a particularly brilliant hue in the
autumn. It is better adapted to suburban conditions than to the
heart of a city. Toward the northern limits of its successful cultivation
it is difficult to transplant, while in the warmer sections of the
country it can be moved with comparative ease. It should be
transplanted only in the spring.
[80] Liquidambar styraciflua L.

SYCAMORE.

The sycamore[81] also called the buttonwood and buttonball tree,

is a large, open, spreading, quick-growing tree native along water-
courses. It is adapted to regions 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13 and
is worth testing in regions 5, 6, 7, and 8. Its habit of shedding its
outer bark in large flakes, leaving the white new bark showing in
large patches, makes it a conspicuous tree wherever grown. The
fruits are balls 1 inch or more in diameter and are sometimes
objected to because they make dirt when falling; also the shed bark
is considered objectionable. It is such a strong-growing handsome
tree and succeeds so well under city conditions that it is being
planted more and more frequently. It will stand more pruning and
shaping than any other street tree. Without pruning it is too large for
ordinary streets unless spaced at almost double the usual planting
distance, with the trees staggered along the street instead of being
planted opposite. Its high head and open habit of growth are distinct
advantages for street planting. Its foliage, too, is a light green,
which gives an impression of airiness with the shade. It is subject to
attack by a fungus that kills the leaves while still small or partially
mutilates them, giving them an unsightly appearance. In some
places this trouble is quite serious.
[81] Platanus occidentalis L.

The California sycamore[82] is a native of California adapted to

regions 1, 2, 3, and 4 and portions of region 5. It is similar in
general characteristics to the sycamore.
[82] Platanus racemosa Nutt.

The London plane tree[83] is one of the Old World forms of

sycamore. According to Alfred Render,[84] "the true oriental plane is
rare in cultivation, the tree usually planted under this name being
Platanus acerifolia" It it more compact in habit of growth and has
the other good qualities of the sycamore. It is being more and more
used on city streets and is proving satisfactory in regions 1, 2, 3, 4,
9, 10, 11, and 12. It will probably succeed in the warmer parts of
regions 6 and 7 and also in regions 5 and 8. It is a more desirable
tree for ordinary use than the sycamore, on account of its more
compact habit and comparative freedom from disease, though it is
tender in the northernmost sections.
[83] Platanus acerifolia (Ait.) Willd.
[84] Bailey, L. H., ed. New York, 1916. Standard Cyclopedia of
Horticulture, v. 5, p. 2707.

TULIP TREE.

The tulip tree[85] is also sometimes called the tulip poplar or

yellow poplar, though the latter names are unfortunate, as the tree is
not a poplar or even closely related to the poplars. It is a large,
rapid-growing tree suitable for suburban conditions in regions 1, 2,
10, 11, and 12. The leaves are of unusual form, the upper half
appearing to have been cut away, leaving a notch about where it
would seem the middle of the leaf should be. The color is a light
green. The roots are unusually soft and tender, and therefore the
tree needs to be transplanted quickly and with great care. Small
sizes should be planted, especially near the northern limits of
growth. It should be transplanted only in the spring. If after
transplanting it the top should die and a new vigorous shoot should
put out from the root, it would be desirable to form a new top from
this shoot rather than to transplant another tree.
[85] Liriodendron tulipifera L.
 CULTURE OF STREET TREES.
SELECTION OF INDIVIDUAL TREES.
Nursery-grown trees should be used for street planting, and they
should have been transplanted at least every two years while in the
nursery. This is to insure a thorough root pruning and the production
of numerous fibrous roots close to the trunk. Trees not frequently
transplanted form a few long roots that are largely cut off when the
tree is dug. Trees growing in the woods form a few very long roots,
and when an attempt is made to dig them only a little of the root
next the trunk is obtained, while most of the roots, including the
fibrous ones, are left in the ground. If woodland trees are wanted
for street purposes, most kinds should be grown for a few years in a
nursery in order to form a good root system before being planted on
the streets.
In addition to a good root system, the tree should have a straight
trunk for the variety, with a good set of branches, called the head,
the bottom branches being from 7 to 9 feet from the ground. Trees
which naturally head low should be started with a higher head than
those varieties that have a tendency to an upright growth. A good
head for a shade tree is a leader or upright branch with three or
more side branches about equally spaced around the tree. The trees
should be healthy, free from scars, and also free from evidences of
insects or diseases. In the presence of insects, trees should be
thoroughly fumigated along approved methods before leaving
nurseries, to insure against the introduction and distribution of
pests. Weakened vitality resulting from transplanting and subsequent
neglect will frequently invite attack by bark-boring insects which
seriously damage or kill the trees. Mulching and watering will often
prevent this damage.
 Opinion as to the size to plant differs somewhat, but for average
conditions trees from 10 to 12 feet high and with trunks or stems
from 2 to 21/2 inches in diameter[86] are very satisfactory in most
varieties used for street purposes. With such varieties as elms
sycamores, and some southern oaks, somewhat larger trees can be
used equally well, while smaller trees would be better in the regions
of limited rainfall both east and west of the Rocky Mountains and for
tulip trees and sweet gums, especially in the northern portion of
their range of usefulness.
[86] Designated by nurserymen as "caliper."

PREPARATION OF HOLES.
Next to the selection of a proper variety, the preparation of the
hole is the most important detail of street tree planting. Because of
the restricted area available for the spread of the tree roots, and
owing to the artificial conditions imposed by the improvement of city
streets, the soil provided for the feeding ground of the roots of the
young tree must be liberal in quantity and of the best quality. From 2
to 3 cubic yards of soil should be provided for each tree. It is
desirable to have at least 18 square feet of opening in the sidewalk,
especially if it is of concrete or other impervious material. Trees will
grow with smaller sidewalk openings, but they are not likely to thrive
so well, and it is impossible properly to prepare a hole for planting a
tree without disturbing at least this much surface soil. The proper
depth of soil is from 21/2 to 3 feet. A hole 3 feet deep large enough
to hold 2 cubic yards of soil has a surface area of 18 square feet. A
hole 6 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 feet deep will hold 2 cubic yards
of soil, will have the smallest desirable surface area, and will be of
such dimensions as will best conform to the usual sidewalk and
roadway widths and thus not interfere with traffic.
The tree hole must be so drained that water will not stand in it. If
the soil is so impervious as to hold water some artificial drainage
must be provided. That portion of the depth of a hole that acts as a
cistern for holding water is valueless as a feeding ground for roots.
For every cubic foot of soil in the bottom of a hole that might thus
be made valueless by standing water, 11/2 cubic feet of soil should be
added by increasing the length or width of it. Under no
circumstances, however, should the depth of available feeding
ground be less than 2 feet. The deeper the roots may be
encouraged to grow, the less injury is likely to be experienced from
drought.
The soil used should be topsoil from land that has been
producing good crops. This should be well enriched with rotted
manure, one part of manure to four of soil. The addition of such
fertilizers as ground bone, tankage, fish scrap, or cottonseed meal at
the rate of 1 pound to the cubic yard of soil is also helpful.
Commercial fertilizers containing mostly phosphoric acid obtained
from other substances than ground bone are not to be
recommended for use in the soil about the roots at planting time.
When used they should form a surface application, worked into the
soil after planting.

PLANTING.
If trees are shipped from a
distance they should be taken at once
on arrival to some point where the
roots may be carefully covered with
soil; there they should be unpacked
and plenty of loose moist earth
worked thoroughly around and over
the roots as fast as they are taken P20370HP
from the box. This temporary Fig. 29.—Trees properly "heeled
covering of the roots is called in."
"heeling in." (fig. 29) The tops may
be either erect or laid almost on the
ground in successive rows, the tops of one row lying over the roots
of the previous rows, the object being to cover the roots thoroughly
and keep them moist until the tree is wanted for permanent setting.
Not a moment of exposure should be permitted between the box
and the soil. If the roots appear dry, they may be dipped for a few
minutes before "heeling in" in a tub of water or in thin mud.

P20000HP
Fig. 30.—Trees handled in a careless manner. The roots should
have been covered with wet canvas.

Trees in large quantities are often packed directly in cars with a

small quantity of straw about the roots. When shipped in this way
extra care (compare figs. 30 and 31) must be exercised in taking the
trees to the point where they are to be heeled in. The wagon in
which they are to be hauled should have a tight box, and wet canvas
should be tied tightly over the load. The last is important, so that
there may be no chance for the roots to dry.
When taking trees from the ground where they have been heeled
in to the place for planting, great care must also be exercised to see
that the roots are not exposed to sun or wind, but are kept closely
covered with moss, wet burlap, or canvas until planted. Lack of care
in this matter is a greater cause of loss in tree planting than
carelessness in any other particular. One city that has its own
nursery and uses largely trees that are supposed to be difficult to
move, but is careful about not exposing the roots for a moment (fig.
31), has a loss of less than 1 per cent. If the roots once dry the
trees will die, and it takes but a short exposure to dry the roots. The
holes should be prepared well in advance of planting, so that no
time will be lost when conditions are right for putting the trees in the
ground.

P20350HP
Fig. 31.—A load of trees and tree boxes. The roots are packed
in wet moss and a tree is not taken from the wagon until
the planter and two shovelers are at the hole where it is to
be planted.

In regions 1, 10, 11, 12, and 13 (fig. 17) the best time for
planting deciduous street trees is the month or six weeks just
preceding freezing weather in the fall. The other desirable time for
planting is as soon after freezing weather is over in the spring as the
ground is dry enough for the mechanical operations. This should be
as early as possible, as the more opportunity there is for root growth
before warm weather forces the top into growth, the better the
results are likely to be. In regions 6, 8, and 9, where the ground
freezes to a considerable depth, spring planting is to be preferred to
fall planting unless it is possible to drench the soil thoroughly for a
considerable distance around the trees at planting time and after
that to mulch the soil thoroughly and also to protect the top from
the effect of drying winter winds. Where mice abound they may be
harbored in the mulch and may girdle the tree. This may be
prevented by a collar of wire netting about the base of the trunk or
by banking the earth about it. The death of trees at the time of
transplanting is due to the drying out of either roots or tops before
opportunity is given them to become reestablished in their new
locations. This drying may be due to improper exposure at the time
of digging or before packing (fig. 30), poor packing, prolonged delay
in delivery, improper handling between unpacking and planting, or
the existence of conditions conducive to excessive drying out of the
plant after setting.

P14340HP
Fig. 32.—A city nursery.

The atmosphere is continually claiming a tribute of moisture from

all living plants, whether the plant is in leaf and growing or is
dormant. Growing plants, and dormant plants under normal
conditions, are able to replace this moisture by absorption through
the roots. In climates where newly planted trees may obtain
sufficient soil water to replace these losses by drying, fall planting is
best. Where the plants are unable to get sufficient winter moisture,
planting would better be done only in the spring. Where the soil
freezes to a depth greater than that to which the plant roots extend,
the supply of water is cut off from the roots and the tree will be
killed by drying out through evaporation from the top. Where winter
winds are very drying and the soil moisture is limited, evaporation
from the top is likely to be in excess of that supplied by the roots
and the tree is killed in the same way.

Fig. 33.—Setting a tree: A, Measuring from the curb to get

the tree in line; B, filling the hole: C, placing the box;
 D, fastening the box.

In regions normally adapted to fall planting, newly set trees may

be killed by a dry autumn followed by a dry winter with, high winds
or by a cold winter with so little snow that the ground freezes below
the roots. On the other hand, trees may often be successfully
planted in the fall where such practice is not usually successful by
thoroughly mulching the soil if freezing is the sole cause of the
difficulty, or by drenching the soil thoroughly and then mulching well
if lack of moisture and high winds are the causes of the trouble.
Protection from the wind by wrapping the trunk and large limbs with
burlap or some other protecting material is also desirable.
After a liberal opening has been made in the specially prepared
soil the tree should be brought, preferably from the city's own
nursery (fig. 32), but if such a nursery has not been provided, then
from among the newly received trees that have been "heeled in" as
already described.
If the tree has been well handled and the roots carefully
protected it is ready for setting. It is desirable to immerse the roots
in a thin mixture of clay and water just before putting it in the hole if
there is suspicion that the roots have been exposed. This can be
done before leaving the nursery or "heeling in" ground, but the roots
must be properly protected. Any mutilated ends of roots should be
removed, the top should be severely pruned, as described later, and
the tree should be placed in the hole in line with the other trees (fig.
33, A) and at such a height that after the filling is completed it will
be about an inch deeper in the ground than it was before
transplanting. The roots should be spread out in as near their
original position as practicable, and soil should be carefully worked
in about them with the fingers, so that each rootlet may come in
contact with soil and not be crowded against other rootlets. When all
the roots have been placed and covered the soil should be
thoroughly trampled or tamped to bring the roots into as close
contact as possible with it. Then more soil should be put in and the
ground again tamped. Of course, in order to get satisfactory results
the soil used for planting must not be too wet or too dry. If the soil
is in such a state as to hold together in soggy masses and not spring
apart again when squeezed in the hand, it is too wet for planting. If
the soil is too dry, it will not stay in contact with the roots during the
planting operations. A soil that is too dry may be well-watered a day
or two in advance of the planting, or if excessive dryness does not
make it difficult to handle, the tree may be planted and then be
thoroughly watered. After the watering 3 or 4 inches of loose soil
should be spread over the wet ground in order to prevent undue
evaporation. It should not be trampled or pounded in any way after
the water is applied. If trees planted in moist retentive soils are
watered after planting they should be provided with a mulch of
similar earth. East of the Missouri River trees planted in soil that is in
good condition usually do not need watering at the time of planting.
Trees planted from pots, cans, or boxes should have the ball of
earth taken from the receptacle handled with care, so as not to
break it further than to loosen some of the roots on the outside of
the ball; then the soil should be as carefully placed about this ball
and the loosened roots as about the roots of trees without balls.
Trees planted with balls need no root pruning and little top pruning.

PRUNING.
At planting time the trees should be so pruned as to remove from
one-half to three-fourths of the leaf buds. The head should be
formed in the nursery, so that at planting time the only problem is
how to reduce the amount of prospective growth the first season
without destroying the form of the head. Specific directions are
difficult, because different species of trees are so different in their
character of growth. A species that is naturally compact in growth
(fig. 34) should be pruned by removing whole branches rather than
by having the ends of branches removed. One that is open and
spreading (fig. 35) will probably need the shortening of the longer
limbs as well as the removal of interior branches. The first pruning
should be the removal of such branches as can be spared. If enough
 buds can
not be
removed
in this way
without
leaving
the head
too open,
then the
shortening
of the
branches
must
follow. It
is usually
necessary
to remove
three-
fourths of
the limbs
P20368HP
P20367HP
to Fig. 35.—A sycamore trimmed for
Fig. 34.—A pin oak trimmed accomplis planting. Well primed, without
for planting. Note the h this. An bad stubs.
bad stubs (A, A) on the expert can
left-hand side of the do this
tree.
pruning or most of it more easily before
the tree is planted than afterwards. Some
additional pruning may be necessary
after the tree is set.
In addition to the pruning of the top the roots may need some
cutting. Any broken pieces or ends should be removed, making a
clean cut with a sharp knife, as new rootlets put out more readily
from a cleanly cut fresh surface than from ragged breaks. If the
roots are very long, without branches or rootlets, it sometimes
makes planting easier to cut off some of the ends. As roots are the
braces by which a tree is supported in the ground, it is undesirable
to reduce their length unless some positive good is to be gained by
it.

P20372HP
Fig. 36.—Types of tree guards.

The best implement for cutting small limbs is a sharp knife, and
for larger limbs a fine-toothed saw. Pruning shears are sometimes
used, but they are likely to bruise the wood. If used at all, the blade
should always be turned toward the tree so that the bruise made by
the supporting bar will be on the portion cut off. Where branches are
taken off, the cut should be close to the remaining limb, so that no
suggestion of a stub will remain. (Figs. 34 and 35.) Where ends are
cut from branches the cut should be just above a bud, and the
remaining bud should point in the direction that it is desired the limb
should grow.

STAKES AND GUARDS.

Under city conditions young trees need the support of a strong
stake as well as protection for the trunk. Boys like to swing around
small trees or see the tops fly up if bent to the ground. Men find
them convenient hitching posts for their horses, and horses
frequently like the taste of the bark or tear it off for the sake of
having something to do.
 Guards are of many forms (fig. 36), from stakes 21/2 inches
square set 3 feet in the ground and extending 6 feet above, with
heavy-netting placed about the tree and stapled to the stake, to
heavy wooden cribs of four stakes and intermediate slats and
wrought-iron patterns of many forms.
The trees should be firmly secured to the tops of the guards so
that they will not swing against them in the wind and be rubbed.
This is best done by securing the tree in place in the guard by two
loops of pieces of old garden hose, soft leather, or rope, in such a
way as not to bind the tree too tightly while keeping it from swinging
much or rubbing. The essentials are a firm support for the tree while
young with reasonable protection of the trunk from careless
depredations until the tree has reached a diameter of 6 inches or
more.

LATER CARE.
If after planting, the season is dry and it becomes necessary to
apply water, the ground should be soaked thoroughly, and as soon
as it has dried sufficiently to work up loosely it should be hoed or
raked to make a good earth mulch. A mulch of strawy manure or
litter may be used in place of the earth mulch if desired. The
watering should not require repeating for a week or more.
If the weather becomes warm soon after planting and the trees
come into leaf, wither, and droop, further pruning may save them.
The reason for the difficulty is probably that the growth of the top
has been greater than the newly formed roots can support;
therefore the additional pruning is likely to restore the balance
between the top growth and root growth. At least three-fourths of
the remaining young wood should be removed. This may leave the
tree looking almost like a bean pole, but if it induces a vigorous root
growth the top can easily be re-formed.
 Young trees should have an annual inspection, and all crossing
branches and any that are not well placed to form a good head
should be removed. Attention should be given also to all forks, and
where two branches start almost parallel to one another or at a
small angle, making a fork liable to split apart as the tree grows, one
branch should be removed. Where three branches start from almost
the same point there is little likelihood of their splitting apart, but
with only two growing at a less angle than 30° there is liable to be
trouble in the case of most kinds of trees. On trees on which few but
long shoots form, it may be well to remove the ends of such shoots.
As a rule, it is undesirable to use for street planting trees with this
kind of growth. Young trees should be trained into a desirable shape
by the use of a pruning knife each year, so that a saw will not be
necessary later. Some trees have a tendency to form too dense a
head. The interior branches of these should be removed and the
head made as open as possible while the work can be done with a
knife. No attempt should be made to alter the natural form of a tree
but only to insure its best development. A skillfully pruned young
tree will show no evidences of the pruning after three or four years.
 CARE OF MATURE TREES.
PRUNING.
It is very little trouble to train a tree into a good shape by using
the pruning knife while the limbs are small, but it is usually difficult
to re-form a tree after it has grown to maturity. One who
understands tree growth, however, can often reshape the top of a
neglected tree to advantage, though many who make a business of
tree trimming know so little about it that they do more harm than
good. More mature trees have been hurt by severe pruning than
have been helped. Of course, dead or dying wood should be
removed whenever it is found, no matter what the age of the tree.
This should be done by cutting off the limb back to the nearest
healthy crotch. A limb should not be cut off square across (fig. 21)
unless the tree is apparently in a dying condition and the whole top
is treated thus in an attempt to save its life. In such a case, a
second pruning should follow within two years, at which time the
stubs left at the first trimming should be cut off in a proper manner
near the newly started limbs. Healthy silver maples and willows are
frequently cut in this way, but the maples in particular would better
be cut down at once than to subject the public to the dangers of the
insidious decay that almost always follows such an operation on
these trees and completes their destruction promptly.
Trees that have been neglected a long time frequently have
interfering or crossing branches, or are too low headed or too
densely headed for the place where they are growing. Defects of this
kind may be at least partially remedied. The removal of limbs by
cutting them off at a crotch in such a manner that the wound is
parallel with the remaining branch (fig. 37) inflicts the least possible
damage. Such a wound in a healthy tree will soon heal over if the
cut is made through the slight collar or ring that is nearly always
present at the base of a branch. The closer this cut can be made to
the trunk the better the appearance when the cut is healed. The
closer the cut the larger the wound, but the difference is
unimportant if the wood is well protected until it is healed. These
operations are entirely different in purpose and result from the
"heading in" or "heading back" so often practiced under the guise of
tree pruning, either from a false notion of forming a top or for the
passage of wires.
Changing the form of a tree by pruning should not be attempted.
Each species has its own form or forms, and no attempt should be
made to change or distort a tree from its normal habit of growth.
Successful pruning will accentuate rather than disguise a tree's
characteristics.
All cuts should be made
so that no stubs or
protuberances are left to
prevent quick healing. Small
wounds need no after
treatment if the cut is well
made. Large wounds should
have the wood of the center
of the cut well protected to
prevent decay until the new
growth has had an
opportunity to heal over the
cut. An application made to
the center of the cut to
preserve the wood should
not be permitted to come
near the cambium layer or
inner bark, especially of soft- P20371HP

wooded trees like the tulip Fig. 37.—Part of a tree trunk showing proper
and improper methods of removing old
and magnolia, as the oil or limbs. Although healing has started on
other substances contained the stub (at the right) it is likely to
in the paint, tar, or other proceed very slowly. The nearer the cut
is to the tree the larger the wound but
covering may spread to the the less conspicuous the stub will be
cambium layer and kill it. It when healed.
is well not to make any
application within half an
inch of the outside of the wound unless the coating has been
thoroughly tested.
Dead wood should be entirely removed, the cut being made
through good live tissue. Removing such wood frequently exposes
decayed cavities, usually from bad stubs or injuries which have
started decay that has followed back to the main limbs or the trunk.
The treatment of such cavities is the province of tree surgery and is
discussed in another publication.[87]
[87] Collins, J. F. Practical tree surgery. In U. S. Dept. Agr.
Yearbook, 1913, pp. 163-190, pl. 16-22. Published as Yearbook
Separate 622, obtainable from the Superintendent of Documents
for 10 cents in coin.

One source of trouble with a large tree that has developed with
two trunks or branches instead of three or more is the liability of
their splitting apart in the crotch. This is especially characteristic of
the elm. Careful attention to the early pruning of trees may eliminate
this defect, but when it exists in mature trees it is frequently
advisable to connect the branches by a strong chain (fig. 18) in
order to prevent the limbs from being torn apart.

FEEDING.
It is difficult to do anything to stimulate the growth of street
trees after they are once started, because usually the only
uncovered area over the roots is the small opening immediately
about the tree; hence, the importance of supplying the best of soil
well enriched at the time of planting. Sometimes a stimulation is
desirable, which can be accomplished by dissolving one-half to 1
pound of nitrate of soda in 50 gallons of water and applying from 1
to 25 gallons of the liquid, depending on the size of the tree. Unless
the soil is damp at the time of application water will be needed
immediately afterward. This material should be applied only when
the tree is in full leaf and growing. If applied when the tree is
dormant it is likely to be leached from the soil before it is absorbed.
If applied late in the season, that is, within three months of freezing
weather, it would likely stimulate a late growth that would be liable
to be killed the following winter and might make the whole tree
more susceptible to injury from cold.
Water is one of the great needs of city trees, as the ground
surface is often almost completely roofed over with water-tight
coverings. It is usually a help for the pavement washings to drain
into the parking space where the tree is planted. If a curb is placed
about the parking space, frequent, regular watering is necessary
where the ground is thoroughly covered with water-tight pavements.
Where growing under suburban conditions, that is, with streets
partially pervious to water, liberal parking spaces, and adjoining
lawns, street trees will respond to all extra care given the near-by
open spaces, whether parkings, lawns, or gardens. If these are well
cared for the trees should have ample sustenance from them
without any direct applications.
In order to prevent the soil about a tree from being packed too
hard by trampling it is frequently desirable on business streets to
cover the soil about it with an iron grating.

SPRAYING.
Street trees, like all other forms of vegetation, are subject to
attacks of insects and diseases. Because of the unfavorable
conditions under which they grow, spraying for biting and sucking
insects and suitable treatment for borers or other burrowing insects
require especially careful attention.
 In addition to a number of troubles common to street trees in
general, each species is liable to troubles of its own; hence, the
need of competent supervision by a trained man with an efficient
outfit rather than leaving; the work to individual initiative.
Because of the height which many street trees attain a powerful
outfit is required to spray them properly. One capable of maintaining
a pressure of 200 pounds per square inch is desirable. The type of
spray required for tall trees is different from that used on fruit trees
and other low plants. For low trees the ideal spray is a mist within a
few feet of the nozzle, application being accomplished by having the
nozzles near the foliage to be treated. For tall trees it is desirable
that the liquid should leave the nozzle in a solid stream, which is
broken into spray as it passes through the air. The material has to be
projected with sufficient force to reach the highest trees before
being entirely converted into mist, as it is impracticable to extend
the nozzles into the trees to reach the farthest portions, as is done
with fruit and other low trees. The spray can not be applied as
uniformly as a mist, but it is impracticable to climb into the tops of
shade trees to cover every part with a cloudlike spray. On the other
hand, the mist spray is better for small trees, as much injury may be
done to low trees or to the lower branches of high trees by the force
of the stream from high-pressure outfits.
It is estimated that in practice up to 95 per cent of the attacking
insects can be killed with insecticides carefully applied by the stream
method under high pressure.
In addition to the mechanical problem of satisfactorily covering
high trees with insecticides or fungicides there is the problem of
selecting materials that will be effective against the insects and
diseases and at the same time will not disfigure the paint or stone
work of adjacent buildings with which the materials must inevitably
come in contact in street tree spraying. It frequently happens that
the most effective remedies must be rejected because of the
damage they would do to buildings and that less efficient materials
must be used.
 Whitewashing the trunks of trees is a useless and unsightly
practice—useless, as it does not prevent the attacks of insects, and
unsightly, because it makes the trunks of the trees obtrusive when
they should be inconspicuous.
Banding with cotton or proprietary preparations may occasionally
be useful, but because such applications are so seldom helpful and
because some of the preparations result in injury due to constriction
of the trunks, it should not be resorted to except upon special
recommendation of an entomologist familiar with the existing
conditions.
Details as to enemies to be expected, methods of treatment, and
materials to be used may be found in other publications[88] or may
be obtained by correspondence with the nearest State agricultural
experiment station or with the United States Department of
Agriculture.
[88] See list on following pages.

PUBLICATIONS OF THE UNITED

STATES DEPARTMENT OF
AGRICULTURE RELATING TO
DISEASES AND INSECTS AFFECTING
SHADE AND ORNAMENTAL TREES.
AVAILABLE FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION.
Control of Root-Knot. (Farmers' Bulletin 648.)
The San Jose Scale and Its Control. (Farmers' Bulletin 650.)
The Bagworm, an Injurious Shade-Tree Insect. (Farmers' Bulletin
701.)
The Catalpa Sphinx. (Farmers' Bulletin 705.)
The Leopard Moth: A Dangerous Imported Enemy of Shade Trees.
(Farmers' Bulletin 708.)
The Oyster-Shell Scale and the Scurfy Scale. (Farmers' Bulletin 723.)
The White-Pine Blister Rust. (Farmers' Bulletin 742.)
Carbon Disulphid as an Insecticide. (Farmers' Bulletin 799.)
The Gipsy Moth and the Brown-Tail Moth and Their Control.
(Farmers' Bulletin 845.)
Common White Grubs. (Farmers' Bulletin 940.)
The Blights of Coniferous Nursery Stock. (Department Bulletin 44.)
Forest Disease Surveys. (Department Bulletin 658.)

FOR SALE BY THE SUPERINTENDENT OF

DOCUMENTS,
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE,
WASHINGTON, D. C.
The Mistletoe Pest in the Southwest. (Bureau of Plant Industry
Bulletin 166.) Price, 10 cents.
The Death of Chestnuts and Oaks Due to Armillaria mellea.
(Department Bulletin 89.) Price, 5 cents.
New Facts Concerning the White-Pine Blister Rust. (Department
Bulletin 116.) Price, 5 cents.
The Huisache Girdler. (Department Bulletin 184.) Price, 5 cents.
Report on the Gipsy Moth Work in New England. (Department
Bulletin 204.) Price, 30 cents.
A Disease of Pines Caused by Cronartium pyriforme. (Department
Bulletin 247.) Price, 5 cents.
Food Plants of the Gipsy Moth in America. (Department Bulletin
250.) Price, 10 cents.
Dispersion of Gipsy Moth Larvæ by the Wind. (Department Bulletin
273.) Price, 15 cents.
The Cottonwood Borer. (Department Bulletin 424.) Price, 5 cents.
Solid-Stream Spraying against the Gipsy Moth and the Brown-Tail
Moth in New England. (Department Bulletin 4.80.) Price, 15
cents.
Protection from the Locust Borer. (Department Bulletin 787.) Price, 5
cents.
Principal Insects Liable to be Distributed on Nursery Stock.
(Entomology Bulletin 34, n. s.) Price, 5 cents.
The Locust Borer. (Entomology Bulletin 58, part 1.) Price, 5 cents.
Additional Data on the Locust Borer. (Entomology Bulletin 58, part
3.) Price, 5 cents.
The San Jose or Chinese Scale. (Entomology Bulletin 62.) Price, 25
cents.
Report on Field Work against the Gipsy Moth and the Brown-Tail
Moth. (Entomology Bulletin 87.) Price, 35 cents.
The Importation into the United States of the Parasites of the Gipsy
Moth and the Brown-Tail Moth. (Entomology Bulletin 91.) Price,
65 cents.
The Dispersion of the Gipsy Moth. (Entomology Bulletin 119.) Price,
20 cents.
The Green-Striped Maple Worm. (Entomology Circular 110.) Price, 5
cents.
The Oak Pruner. (Entomology Circular 130.) Price, 5 cents.
The Dying Hickory Trees: Cause and Remedy. (Entomology Circular
144.) Price, 5 cents.
Flour Paste as a Control for Red Spiders and as a Spreader for
Contact Insecticides. (Entomology Circular 166.) Price, 5 cents.
Three Undescribed Heart-Rots of Hardwood Trees, Especially of Oak.
(Journal of Agricultural Research, vol. 1, No. 2.) Price, 25 cents.
A Serious Disease in Forest Nurseries Caused by Peridermium
filamentosum. (Journal of Agricultural Research, vol. v, No. 17.)
Price, 10 cents.
The Chestnut Bark Disease. (Separate 598, from Yearbook of the
Department of Agriculture for 1918.) Price, 10 cents.
Practical Tree Surgery. (Separate 622, from Yearbook of the
Department of Agriculture for 1913.) Price, 10 cents.
Forest Tree Diseases Common in California and Nevada. (Forest
Service Unnumbered Publication.) Price, 25 cents.

ADDITIONAL COPIES
OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED
FROM
THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON, D. C.
AT
15 CENTS PER COPY
Welcome to our website – the perfect destination for book lovers and
knowledge seekers. We believe that every book holds a new world,
offering opportunities for learning, discovery, and personal growth.
That’s why we are dedicated to bringing you a diverse collection of
books, ranging from classic literature and specialized publications to
self-development guides and children's books.

More than just a book-buying platform, we strive to be a bridge

connecting you with timeless cultural and intellectual values. With an
elegant, user-friendly interface and a smart search system, you can
quickly find the books that best suit your interests. Additionally,
our special promotions and home delivery services help you save time
and fully enjoy the joy of reading.

Join us on a journey of knowledge exploration, passion nurturing, and

personal growth every day!

testbankfan.com