INTRODUCTION ON FASHION

& DESIGNING CONCEPTS IN

FASHION
WAD 4104
Design studio

Fashion Design Department

Lesson 1
Introduction to the fashion industry
Segments of fashion design industry
 BE
FASHIONABLE.
STAY
FASHIONABLE.
LOOK
FASHIONABLE.

FASHION. The universal language of every soul.

 What is Fashion?

Fashion is a general term for a popular style or practice, especially in

clothing
footwear
accessories
make up
body piercing or
furniture
Fashion refers to a distinctive and often habitual trend in the style with
which a person dresses, as well as to prevailing styles in behaviour.
Fashion also refers to the newest creations of textile designers. The
more technical term, costume, has become so linked to the term
"fashion“.
 CONCEPTS IN FASHION DESIGN
❖ Fashion season is defined as either Autumn/Winter
or Spring/Summer.
❖ Fashion design is generally considered to have
started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick
Worth,father
of Haute-Couture,who was the first designer to have
his designer
label sewn into the garments
that he created.
❖ House of Worth was his label.
 TYPES OF FASHION

❖ Haute-Couture (hi – fashion)

❖ Prêt-A-Porter (ready to wear)

❖ Mass market
 Haute-Couture….
French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion“ , refers to the
creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a
specific customer’s or wearer’s measurements and body stance, and it is usually
made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail
and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using
time-consuming,
hand-executed techniques.
"Couture" means dressmaking,
sewing, or needlework and
"Haute" means elegant or high.
Haute Couture is a "protected
name" that can be used only
by firms that meet certain
well-defined standards by
Chambre de commerce et
D’industrie le Paris.
 To earn the right to call itself a couture house and
to use the term haute couture in its advertising
and any other way, members of the Chambre
syndicale de la haute couture must follow these
rules:
⦿ Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or
more fittings.
⦿ Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at
least fifteen people full-time.
⦿ Must have twenty full-time technical people in at
least one atelier (workshop).
⦿ Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection
to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five
runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and
evening wear.
 Ready-to-wear….
or prêt-à-porter is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished
condition, in standardized sizes. Designers produce ready-to-wear clothing
intended to be worn without significant alteration, because clothing made to
standard sizes fits most people. They use standard patterns, factory
equipment, and faster construction techniques to keep costs low, compared to
a custom-sewn version of the same item.
In high-end fashion, ready-to-wear
collections are usually presented by
fashion houses each season during
a period known as Fashion Week.
The Fall/Winter shows take place
in February, and the Spring/Summer
collections are shown in September.
 History

⦿ Due to technological advances,

military uniforms were the first The drawing above shows a
ready-to-wear garments to be Union soldier wearing a
mass-produced during the War of standard-size Army uniform
1812.High-quality ready-to-wear
garments for men became generally
available soon thereafter, as the
relatively simple, flattering cuts and
muted tones of the contemporary
fashion made proportionate sizing
possible in mass production. As
female fashion was, at the time,
still highly ornate and dependent on
a precise fit, ready-to-wear
garments did not become widely
available for women until much
later.
 Mass Market…
⦿ is ready-to-wear garments in mass.
⦿ is available in large quantities and standard
measurements.
⦿ use’s cheap materials or fabrics, creatively used,
to produce affordable fashion.
⦿ use simple production techniques therefore to sell
at cheaper rates.
⦿ are fashion available both in brands and on
streets.
 DESIGNER LABEL

• A cross between couture and

mass market
• Not made for individual
customers, but great care is taken
in the choice and cut of the fabric.
• These clothes are made with high
quality materials and mass
produced only in small quantities
to guarantee exclusivity.
• They are costly.
• Examples: Donna Karan, Yves St
Laurent, Gucci
 Segments of fashion design…
Area Brief Market
Women’s day wear Practical, comfortable, Haute-couture,
fashionable ready-to-wear, mass market
Women’s evening wear Glamorous, sophisticated, Haute-couture,
suited for occasions ready-to-wear, mass market

Women’s lingerie Glamorous, comfortable, Haute-couture,

washable ready-to-wear, mass market

Men’s day wear Casual, practical, Tailoring, ready-to-wear

comfortable
Men’s evening wear Smart, elegant, formal, apt Tailoring, ready-to-wear
for occasion
Kid’s wear Trendy or classy, practical, Ready-to-wear, mass
washable, functionable market
Teenage girl wear Colorful, comfortable, Ready-to-wear, mass
glamorous, pretty market
 Segments of fashion design…
Area Brief Market
Jean’s wear Unisex, democratic, Ready-to-wear, mass
comfortable, practical, market
functional
Sport’s wear Comfortable, practical, well Ready-to-wear, mass
ventilated, washable, market
functional
Knit wear Right weight and color for Ready-to-wear, mass
the season market

Outer wear Stylish, warm, Right weight Ready-to-wear, mass

and color for the season market

Bridal wear Sumptuous, glamorous, Haute-couture,

classic ready-to-wear, mass market
accessories Striking, fashionable Haute-couture,
ready-to-wear, mass market
⦿ In response to consumer demand and changes in
consumer life‐styles, manufacturers and retailers
have developed various size and price ranges, as well
as categories for styling and clothing type.
 Women’s Wear

⦿ Social apparel includes

special occasion attire,
Evening wear Cocktail wear
such as long and short
cocktail dresses, dressy
pant, party and evening
or bridal gowns.

Club wear
⦿ Street wear is a
distinctive style of street
fashion. Rooted in West
Coast surf and skate
culture.
⦿ Suits are jackets and skirts (or
pants) sold together as units.
Suits range from casual to
tailored. There is a trend to
casual dressing at the office
but it remains to be seen if
professional women will give
up their "power” suits.
Outerwear includes coats,
capes, and jackets with a
primarily protective function.
⦿ Sportswear is any combination of
tops and bottoms, such as jackets,
skirts, pants, shorts, blouses, and
shirts that are priced separately so
that the customer can combine
them as desired. Sportswear is
popular because of the variety of
looks that can he made by
combining separates. American
designers have excelled in this
category which suits informal
American life‐styles.
⦿ Active wear is one of the
hottest categories of apparel
today, fueled by the
popularity of
fitness.Activewear is
subcategorized into two
segments: fitness wear, worn
by people who actively
participate in sports, and
active wear, worn for
spectator sports or simply as
street wear. Active wear
includes hike shorts, leggings,
T‐shirts, crop tops. Jogging
sets, sweat suits, and jackets.
⦿ Swimwear includes
one‐piece suits, bikinis, and
cover‐ups. push‐up bras,
extra torso length, and other
in construction.
Manufacturers are also
adding special sizes.
⦿ Lingerie, including innerwear,
body wear, sleepwear, and
loungewear. The popularity of
lingerie is partly caused by the
fashion of wearing corsets to
show as Karl Lagerfeld
introduced under suit jackets,
and the marketing style of
Victoria’s Secret. The more
fitted look of today’s fashion is
also influencing the rise in
sales of body slimmer’s.
 Men’s Clothing Categories

⦿ Tailored clothing includes

suits, tuxedos, overcoats,
topcoats, sport coats, and
separate trousers for business
and evening wear. Tailored
clothing re‐ quires lengthy,
time‐consuming, costly
production and retailers need
to inventory many sizes.
⦿ Street wear
⦿ Casual wear
⦿ Sportswear comprises sport
jackets, knit or woven related
separates, sweaters, and casual
trousers that fill the demand
for more leisure and casual
wear.
⦿ Active sportswear
includes all garments
needed for sports or
exercise, such as
windbreakers, ski jackets,
jogging suits, and tennis
shorts.
⦿ Work clothes, such as
overalls, work shirts, and
pants required by laborers,
have become popular for
leisure wear.
 Children’s Wear
⦿ Girls’ dresses - jumpers, jackets, and skirts are
considered tailored clothing.
⦿ Boys’ traditional clothing includes blazers, other dress,
like, jackets, suits, dress pants, and dress shorts.
⦿ Sportswear comprises T‐shirts, jeans, pants, shorts,
overalls, jumpsuits, leggings, girls’ skirts, boys' shirts,
sweatshirts, sweatpants, and sweat suits in knits and
woven's, particularly’ denim and fleece.
⦿ Swimwear groups swimsuits and beach cover‐ups.
⦿ Outerwear includes dress coats, all weather coats,
raincoats, ski jackets, windbreakers, and snow suits.
⦿ Sleepwear includes night gowns, blanket sleepers,
pajamas, nightgowns, nightshirts, and robes.
⦿ Girl’s party wear
 Segments of fashion industry

• Haute Couture
• Ready to wear
• Luxury super brand
• Mid level brands & designers
• Independent designer brands
• Designer sports wear
• Sports wears
• Casual wears
• High Street Supermarket
Lesson 2
Topics: Design Studio flow chart.
Who works in a Design Studio?
Job descriptions of the people working in a design studio.
 Fashion design studio

❑ A Design Studio or Drawing Office is a workplace for

Designers and Artisans engaged in conceiving, designing
and developing new products or objects.

❑ Facilities in a Design Studio include furniture, art

equipment best suited for Design work and extending to
Work Bench, Small Machines, Computer equipment,
Paint shop and up to large presentation boards and
screens.
 Team in the design studio

❑ The Development process is cyclical and dependent upon a number of

team members and specialist activities. The Team will usually consist of
✔ a designer,
✔ a pattern cutter,
✔ Sample cutter,
✔ Sample machinist,
✔ and costing/production manager,
and maybe a part time stylist. There may also be some other people who
specialize in sourcing fabrics and trims, print designers and graphic
designers. With the size of the production and design activity this team
actually increases or reduces.
The Team
Design Studio
The Development process is cyclical and dependent upon a number of team
members and specialist activities. The Team will usually consist of a
designer, a pattern cutter, Sample cutter, Sample machinist, and
costing/production manager, and maybe a part time stylist. There may also be
some other people who specialize in sourcing fabrics and trims, print
designers and graphic designers. With the size of the production and design
activity this team actually increases or reduces.

The Designer:
The Designer is the central member at the studio setup. He/she is ultimately
responsible for all the production, design and every other activity that goes
on in the studio. From the Initial Design stage up to overseeing the first
prototype production and finally the samples for selling and even for
promotion. They are the key team players who work and coordinate with the
rest of the team and make the whole
process successful.
The Pattern Cutter

The pattern cutter will work with the designer’s images and drawings, which convey
the direction and look of the collection. Often working with the designer and
machinist, the pattern cutter’s responsibility is to help realize an idea or vision in
three dimension.

Sample Machinist

The sample machinist is very much different than a regular machinist working in a
production unit‐ they are skilled at adapting new styles and designs. They work
closely with pattern cutters to make up the toiles and the first sample cut in cloth.

Studio Manager

In a company that employs a team of designers and pattern cutters, a studio manager
coordinates all the functions between the sampling and the production process. This
is important if the company works from multiple sites.
Costing Manager
All garments within a collection that are produced to see must be costed. This is either the
job of the designer or in a larger company a costing manager or administrator. Costing are
based mainly on two components, one is the material consumption cost and the other is
the labor
cost.

Buyers and Merchandisers

Fashion buyers are judged by the sales and departmental profitability. As such, most
buyers are keen to investigate new lines or designers capable of adding to an established
retail business. Quality, reliability of delivery and reordering are essential considerations
in addition to cost.

Stylists and Pr Agents

Designers and producers will work with a fashion stylist when considering the
presentation of the collection to the press, buyers or the consumers. Usually the stylists
work on a freelance basis. Experienced stylists transform the most basic fashion pieces
into a key look or trend and inspire a wider audience of designers and producers. The PR
agents do the publicity,arrange for promotional magazine appearance for the product line,
celebrity collaborations.PR agents also distribute look books and arrange appointments
with buyers.
 Client profile board showcases…
⦿ Age group
⦿ Social status
⦿ Income
⦿ Interests and hobbies
⦿ Demography or geography
⦿ Season or activity
⦿ Marital status
⦿ Character
⦿ Attitude
⦿ Motto in life
⦿ Role model
Thank you