How it's done ... hairstyles for you.

By Ivan of Hollywood
Anderson, Ivan D.
[Hollywood, Cal., Ivan of Hollywood, c1948]

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TT
958
A54
DONE
...
HOW
IT'S Re
TT
958
A5
Hairstyles
forYou
byIVAN

"
OF
HOLLYWOOD

This amazing
new book
shows you:
HOW TO select
the most becoming
haircuts and
hairstyles for your
particular face
type .
HOW TO minimize
facial and head

$100
irregularities .
HOW TO finger
wave and how to
sculpture curls . make
HOW TO set and
comb flattering
hairstyles for little girls,
and women teen agers,
of all ages .
HOW TO set and
comb rolls and bangs .
he
TT
958
A54

LIBRARY OF THE
NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE
OF HOME ECONOMICS
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
ITHACA , NEW YORK
 Date Due :
Ma216K
$999
Dec 628

MAY 27 1963
LIBRARY ANNEX
DEC 16070
DEG3098

NOV

MART 1900

-
IDEG 08-1996

FEB 28: 1996

RETURN TO

ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY

ITHACA , N. Y.

Cornell UniversityLibrary
TT 958.A54
How it's done hairstyles for you
...

1924 003 597 121

3

mann
 Foreword
There long was a crying need for a textbook dealing with
all phases of haircutting and styling from a master craftsman
with an understanding of hairstyling for face type . The answer
was in Ivan of Hollywood's best selling book , " Creative Hair-
shaping and Hairstyling . "
Here , in his second book , " Hairstyles For You ," his written
material and superb illustrations again show the fine points
of hairshaping and hairstyling in such a way that even a
non - professional can grasp the ideas .
The author's thorough understanding of hairstyling problems
is the sum and substance of the ability , the artistic and practica !
knowledge that have made him one of the world's outstanding
artists in the hairdressing profession . As further proof of his
pre -eminence , Ivan has written and illustrated many articles
for the beauty profession , given hundreds of lectures and
radio interviews on the subject of hair beauty . The Hairstyling
Trophies below , including the Grand Prize Gold Trophy , are
Ivan's awards for his hairstyling talent .
This book wins my wholehearted approval as a textbook
for beauty culture schools , for practicing hairstylists the world
THE over , and for the average woman , who , from its contents , can
guide her beauty steps toward the goal of successful and

Author happy living .

Signed ,

LoveWentwor
Director of Make - Up and Hairstyling
Warner Bros. Studios

HAIRSTYLING
TROPHIES WON
BY

IVAN
OF HOLLYWOOD
he he 16615
тт
958
A54
TABLE OF

Contents
INTRODUCTION • 3
The Two Hairstyling Principles

WHAT IS A GOOD HAIRCUT ? 4

THE FOUR BASIC HAIRSTYLE GROUPS ·

HOW TO SELECT THE MOST BECOMING HAIRSTYLES

FOR THE DIFFERENT FACE TYPES 8

HOW TO ARRANGE HAIR TO OVERCOME FACIAL

AND HEAD DEFECTS . 11

HOW TO FINGER WAVE . • • 16

HOW TO MAKE SCULPTURE CURLS . • 18

LITTLE GIRL HAIRSTYLES • 20

How To Set
How To Comb

TEEN AGE HAIRSTYLES 22

How To Set

How To Comb

HAIRSTYLES FOR 20

How To Set
TO 60 AGE GROUP .
GROUP ... 24

How To Comb

BANGS AND ROLLS · 28

How To Set
How To Comb

HISTORY AND CONCLUSION . 31

SALON HAIRSTYLES • 32
2
 Introduction

HAIRCUTTING or HAIRSHAPING is defined as : the art of shaping

hair insuch a way that it provides a perfect foundation for the permanent
wave and hairstyle .

HAIRSTYLING is defined as : arranging the hair in such a way that it

makes the face appear oval in shape when it actually is not oval . In
addition , the magic of hairstyling minimizes the bad features .

To design becoming hairstyles it is absolutely essential that we recog-

nize these two hairstyling principles :

1
The outline of a hairdress is all - important . If the outline is not
right , the hairdress will be unbecoming .

2 The oval shape is perfection . By having the correct outline in our

hairdresses , we can make all face types appear oval in shape .

Here is a perfect oval .

Studyit carefully.
WIDEST
HERE
Observe that it is widest
about one-third of the
distance from the top .

The hairstyling method

to follow , is based on
this oval shape .

THE PURPOSE OF THIS BOOK is to present professional hairstyling

methods in a simplified and easy - to - understand way , so that all may bene-
the master hairstylists
fit

from the heretofore closely guarded secrets

of

3
 What is a good haircut ?
A good haircut is a combination of these two things : proper shaping and proper tapering .

1
THE HAIR MUST BE SHAPED PROPERLY

From a back view , the hair should

be lowest in the center back and
slope up at the sides .

From the study of art we learn that

curved lines are always more be- WRONG RIGHT
coming than straight lines .

From a side view , the outline of the

hair should slant up toward the face .

WRONG RIGHT

In the " wrong " sketches on this page , it is quite obvious that the excessive weight and length of
the hair around the face and behind the ears would cause the curls to drop down quickly after setting .

The " right " sketches illustrate the shape and length of a " Middy Haircut . " A Middy Haircut is
about three and one - half inches long on top and at the sides . The hair in the crown area is about
six inches in length .

4
 2 THE HAIR MUST BE TAPERED PROPERLY

To illustrate this point , we will part off the back hair from eartop to eartop as shown in this sketch .

If the hair is cut straight If the ends are overtapered ,

you will not have the de- PROPERLY TAPERED
off like an ordinary house
sired fullness around the ends are essential to
painting brush , the finished
face and neck . Also over-
effect is harsh looking and tapered ends cause tight , beautiful hairstyles and
your permanent wave will frizzy , broken ends after perfect permanent waves .
not have ringlet ends . the permanent wave .

Because a perfect permanent wave is dependent upon a perfect haircut , it is safe to conclude that
millions of permanent waves could be better if the hair were shaped and tapered properly .

Here is an easy test to determine if your hair is properly cut :

Run your comb through your back hair and lift up . If your hair falls in a cascade of fluff,

layer by layer , you have the right foundation for a good permanent wave and hairstyle .

Many times a good shaping will make the hair appear longer than it was before the hair was cut .
5
 The four basic
ALL HAIRSTYLES ( EXCEPT EXTREME , FANTASTIC HAIR ARRANGEMENTS ) FALL INTO ONE H

GROUP I HAIRSTYLES GROUP II HAIRSTYLES

are visible from about the chin line up when are flat on top , close to the sides , and all down .
seen from the direct front .

KEY FOR COMBING HAIRSTYLES IN THIS

KEY FOR COMBING HAIRSTYLES IN THIS
GROUP : The outline of the top and sides (ex-
GROUP : The outline of the hair together with
cluding the curls ) together with the outline of
the chin line should have a general oval shape .
,
the lower half of the face should have a general
Your eyes automatically follow along the dotted oval shape .
line to complete the oval outline .

Notice that the hair is widest where the oval The outline of the curls must take a graceful
is widest . curve . (Be sure the outline of the curls does not
take a straight line .)

SQUARE FACES are best complemented by

hairstyles in Group I. ( Hairstyles in Groups This is the best hairstyle group for LONG
III and IV are next best .) FACES . ( Hairstyles in Group I are next best . )
 hairstyle groups
ESE FOUR BASIC HAIRSTYLE GROUPS WHEN YOU LOOK AT THEM FROM THE DIRECT FRONT .

GROUP III HAIRSTYLES GROUP IV HAIRSTYLES

are visible only from the ears up when seen are a combination of up and down lines . (The
from the direct front . sides and top are up and the back is down . )

KEY FOR COMBING HAIRSTYLES IN THIS KEY FOR COMBING HAIRSTYLES IN THIS
GROUP : The outline of the hair together with GROUP : The outline of the top and sides ( ex-
the outline of the lower half of the face must cluding the curls ) together with the outline of
have a general oval shape . the lower half of the face , should have a general
oval shape .
Hairstyles in this group are particularly good
for ROUND FACES . (Hairstyles in Groups I The outline of the curls should take a graceful
curve .
and IV are next best . )

This is the best hairstyle group for INVERTED

TRIANGLE and DIAMOND shaped faces .

:*IMPORTANT NOTE : Bangs may be

(Hairstyles in Group I are next best . )

worn in all four hairstyle groups .

7
 How to select the most
becoming hairstyles for the
different face types

✩ Since we know that there are only four basic hairstyle groups , it
follows then, that the best hairstyle for every face type or composite
face type , must be in one of the four basic hairstyle groups .

This is the hairstyling procedure followed by the top stylists :

FIRST , study the face in a mirror from the direct front . Pick out
the parts of the head and face outline that are not oval in shape .

THEN , select the hairstyle group that will make the face and head
appear to look oval.

IMPORTANT NOTE : You can rest assured that one of the

four basic hairstyle groups is best for every face type
or composite face type . This hairstyling procedure
has been used on hundreds of thousands of beauty
salon patrons -
it has proved to be foolproof.

On the following pages , incorrect and correct sketches are given to

illustrate how this professional hairstyling method works .

All you need do is look at the outline of the face and head from the

direct front ; pick out those parts of the outline that are not oval-
and then select the hairstyle group that will make the face and head
appear to look oval .
8
 IF THE FACE IS SQUARE

PROBLEM : To select the hairstyle group that will make this square face appear oval . To do this ,
we must round out the square jaws , add width where the oval is widest , and round out
the flat top.

INCORRECT

The center part seems to divide the face in half and emphasize
its squareness .

The outline of the hair repeats the square lines of the face .

CORRECT
Rounded side part.

Hair is high and rounded on top .

The outline of the hair at the sides of the head takes a graceful
curve , and gives the face an illusion of roundness .

So , Group I hairstyles are best for square faces .

IF THE FACE IS LONG

PROBLEM : To select the hairstyle group that will make the face appear shorter, and more round
looking .

INCORRECT

The center part and height on top makes the face appear longer
than it really is .

Side hair is too close to the head .

CORRECT

The up - diagonal part slants upward toward the crown and gives
an illusion of greater width to the top of the head . The up - diagonal
part also allows more hair to fall on the small side and thus gives
extra fullness on the neck .

Bangs break up the long line of the face , and the fullness at the
sides makes the face appear more round .

Low , soft curls , or fluff, cause the longness of the face to be less
noticeable .

So, Group II hairstyles are best for long faces .

 IF THE FACE IS ROUND
PROBLEM : To select the hairstyle group that will make the face look longer and more narrow .

INCORRECT

Center part seems to divide the face into two equal parts , and thus
emphasize the roundness of the face.

The outline of the hair repeats the round line of the face .

CORRECT

High hair arrangement on top .

Sides close to the head .

Soft bangs break up the round lines of the face . (Bangs are not
absolutely necessary , however . )

So , Group III hairstyles are best for round faces .

IF THE FACE HAS INVERTED TRIANGLE SHAPE

PROBLEM : To select the hairstyle group that will give an illusion of roundness to the top of the
head , and cause the pointed chin to appear fuller .

INCORRECT

Center part draws attention to the pointed chin .

Hair is flat on top and too wide at the temples .

The pointed chin is emphasized because the outline of the hair

comes to a point at the chin .

CORRECT

Height rounds out the flat head .

Loose curls at the sides and neck cause the lower half of the face
to appear fuller .

So , Group IV hairstyles are best for inverted triangle faces .

(Group IV styles are also good for DIAMOND SHAPE faces . )

IF YOU HAVE AN OVAL FACE

You are lucky ! All four hairstyle groups are becoming to oval faces .
10
 How to arrange hair to overcome
facial and head defects
IF THE HEAD IS FLAT ON TOP

INCORRECT

The flatness of the head is emphasized because the hair is flat and

too low on top .

CORRECT

The top hair arrangement is high , and causes the flatness of the
head to be unnoticeable .

IF THE UPPER HALF OF THE FACE IS LONG ( High Forehead )

INCORRECT

The high forehead is exposed , and the high hair arrangement

accentuates it.

The up - do causes the upper half of the face to look longer .

CORRECT

Flatness and bangs shorten the face length , and conceal the
high
forehead .

Fullness at the sides gives good proportion to the face .

11
 IF THE UPPER HALF OF THE FACE IS SHORT (Low Forehead )

INCORRECT

The hair arrangement is too flat on top and calls attention to the
low forehead .

CORRECT

The hair has a high outline that causes the upper half of the face
to appear normal .

(Bangs are also good for low foreheads IF they have height . )

IF THE TEMPLES ARE NARROW

INCORRECT

Because the hair converges to a point on top , attention is attracted

to the narrow temples .

The hair is too wide at the bottom .

CORRECT

Width in the temple area and moderate height on top causes the

)4
temples to appear wider .

12
 IF THE NOSE IS LONG

INCORRECT
The top hair continues the line of the nose , and therefore em-
phasizes its length .

The hair arrangement on the neck also repeats the line of the nose .

‫فهك‬
The up -diagonal part is bad because it takes the same direction as
the nose .

CORRECT

The top hair is well to the front and has a soft outline . This draws

the eye away from the nose , and gives better proportion to the
upper half of the face .

The hair on the neck and over the ears is full and casual .

IF THE NOSE IS CROOKED

INCORRECT

Since the center part divides the face into two equal parts attention

,
any feature that
to

attracted off balance

is

is

the part were here

in

If

Notice the dotted line this sketch the

,
.

crooked nose would be emphasized because the part would take

the same direction as the nose
.

CORRECT

The side part and irregular outline draws the eye away from the
crooked nose
.

Surveys indicate that nine out of ten women have crooked noses
.

13
 IF THE CHIN RECEDES

INCORRECT

The outline of the hair is too wide at the top , and because it narrows
down , the eye is directed to the receding chin .

CORRECT

The top hair is full and irregular in shape .

The soft hair arrangement on the neck and over the ears gives good
proportion to the lower half of the face , and draws the eye away

from the receding chin .

(These incorrect and correct outlines also apply to a PROTRUD-

ING JAW .)

IF THE NECK IS LONG

INCORRECT

The hairdress has an all up line .

The outline of the hair at the sides is almost straight up and down .
These verticle lines take the same direction as the neck line , and
make the neck appear longer and thinner than it really is .

CORRECT

This style fills out the face and causes the long neck to be less
noticeable .

14
 IF THE FOREHEAD RECEDES

INCORRECT CORRECT

The top hair continues the The soft bangs conceal the
line of the receding fore- upper half of the forehead
head , thus emphasizing and make it appear normal .
the bad feature .

GENERAL ART RULES FOR HAIRSTYLING

Center parts are becoming to about ten percent of the American women , so avoid center parts if
your features are not regular .

Properly shaped and tapered hair is more flattering than hair which is all the same length .

Loose , fluffy curls are more becoming than small , tight curls .

Wide , soft waves are more artistic and flattering than narrow , ridgy waves .

Up -lines in a hairdress make one appear buoyant , and seem to erase facial lines .

Down -lines in a hair arrangement accentuate a double chin and facial lines .

Scars and deep wrinkles on the forehead can be hidden by bangs . If there are wens or bumps on
the head , decide on a part that does not show them and arrange the hair in rolls or bangs to cover
them . If there are scars or birth marks behind the ears , plan fullness so the defect will be concealed .

Small faces are best complimented by a style that is soft , wispy , and in proportion to the size of the
head . Excessively large or small hairdresses should be avoided .

Women with large faces should wear wide waves and full rolls . Fussy details are out .

The problem of a short neck is best solved by wearing the hair high with the ears partly showing .

This gives an illusion of a longer neck . A swirled back with diagonal waves is suitable .

Sloping shoulders are best counteracted by a style that is low and full on the neck . Avoid hairdresses
that have all - up lines .

Broad shoulders are emphasized when the lines of a hairdress are horizontal .

Short women can add inches to their height by wearing high hairdresses .

15
 You nger ave

This drawing shows how the ridge of a wave looks

after it is set. A complete wave is composed of two of
these ridges going in opposite directions .

PREPARATORY STEPS
1. Wash the hair with a good shampoo .

2. Use a cream rinse to make the hair more

manageable and easier to wave .

3. Apply light setting lotion , or if you prefer ,

set with water .

Note : An inexpensive , professional type home hair dryer offers simplest drying methods for
student practice.

Comb the top hair almost straight

back .

Place the index finger of the left

hand flat against the head just
above the spot where you want hand
the ridge to start , and then comb left
the hair toward the forehead .

right
Insert the comb through the hair

hand
to the scalp , and slide forward .
The hair will break into a ridge
where it is least resistant . ( In
other words , where the perma-
nent wave or natural wave is . The
lasting finger waves
or

or
of

follow work with the permanent wave natural wave tendency

to

secret
is

)
.

Next flatten the comb so almost lies flat against the head
it
,

Now lift the left hand off the head

,

and hold the ridge firmly place

of

as

Then spread the index and middle fingers the left hand
in
,

shown by the next sketch

.

16
 Comb the hair sharply to the right,
and the first ridge is finished .

To add to , or extend this ridge ,

take another portion of hair in
backof the ridge you just made .
Repeat the same finger wave hand
left
movements as you work around
the head .

right
hand
HOW TO MAKE
IVAN
A COMPLETE WAVE

The second ridge the first ridge except

of
made exactly the same goes back instead toward
as
is

it
the face
.

THE THREE BASIC WAVES

SHADOW WAVE
1

SHADOW WAVE
NARROW WAVE
Shadow waves are wide and the ridges are not sharp
.

Because this type of wave is subtle and natural look-

ing beautiful and flattering
it
is
,

.
2

NARROW WAVE
‫مل‬

The ridges narrow wave are sharp and close

of

WIDE WAVE
a

together Some types of fine hair do not hold

a
.

shadow or wide wave so narrow wave must be

as a
,

used even though not beautiful

is
it

.
3

WIDE WAVE

Wide waves are becoming most people and should The ridges are just
be

used extensively
to

a
.

little sharper than found

in

shadow wave
a

17
 How to make sculpture curls
This professional curl is easy to make and by using it,
your hairstyle will last longer .

FIRST STEP . Part off a section of hair about an

hand
inch square . (The section may be larger or
smaller . Use larger sections for loose , natural

left
styles . )

Comb all the hair in the section in the direction

you want it to go after it is dried and combed out .
hand
(If you are setting the hair for an up line , as in right
this illustration , the hair should be combed up .
If you are setting the hair for a down line , comb
the hair down . )

Hold the section of hair with right hand .

Place the index finger of the left hand close to

the scalp at the position shown .

SECOND STEP . Wrap the hair loosely around

the index finger . (Be sure you wrap smoothly
without twisting . ) The ends of the hair should hand
left

be nearest the tip of the index finger .

right hand

18
 THIRD STEP . Tipthe index finger up on end

left
so it stands straight out from the head .

hand
Observe that the tip of the finger is not in the
exact center of the square . ( If you place the curl
in the exact center of the square section , the
curl will buckle and not comb out smoothly . )

FOURTH STEP . With the thumb and index

left
finger of the right hand , slide the hair off. ( If

hand
it is difficult to slide the hair off, you have
wrapped too tightly . )

hand
right

FIFTH STEP Insert bobby pin or hair pins

a
.

The finished curl looks like this

.

Notice that every loop of the curl inside of the last loop and that the
is

ends of the hair are the center This professional curl lasts longer
in

because follows the permanent wave or natural wave tendency of

it

the hair
.

This the symbol that will be used the setting instructions follow
in

to
is

Itshows the direction the curl takes The curls will be numbered to
.

show you the professional order

to

which make the curls

in

19
 Little girl styles
Above all , little girl hairstyles should be natural
looking and easy to take care of.

The top hair used for bangs features a " V" part in
combination with a part that is slightly off center .

The bangs are rounded because curved bangs are

always more becoming than straight bangs .

As in all professional haircuts , the hair is shortest

near the face and longest in the center back .

HOW TO SET The short hair used for bangs Comb the hair back from the
is made into about four large face and set the curls in the
curls . Since the hair is short , order numbered .
bobby pins are used in prefer-
ence to hairpins .
The left side is set the same way.

HOW TO COMB

When combing bangs , lift the comb away from the forehead so the hair will fall casually .

Comb the sides back away from the face and then forward over the ears .

Notice that the top layers are shorter and for this reason produce a full , fluffy effect . ( When hair is
all the same length , the weight of the hair will cause the curls to drop out quickly . Many times
ex-

cessive hair length and weight will make the permanent wave appear though did not take
as

it

)
.

20
 A bow is used in this style for two reasons .
It is suitable to her age , and at the same time
it covers the bobby pins used to "anchor "
the sides up.

HOW TO SET

Set the top hair into a ridge or Both the right and left sides are The back hair is combed down
half- wave , and turn the ends set the same . Simply comb the and set in curls in the order and
into one large flat curl . hair up, push into a half - wave , direction indicated .
and make a large flat curl .

HOW TO COMB

Comb the top hair first and secure with bobby pins just back of the half -wave .

Comb the sides up over the top hair and insert bobby pins . Place bow on top .

Comb the back hair down and forward over the ears . If the back hair is shaped properly it will
fall into a casual fluff .

21
 Teen age hairstyles
Hairstyles in this category should never be tight or
set looking . Since naturalness is our goal , we will
use the long glamour haircut as a foundation , and
will use wide waves and loose curls in designing
these styles .

Attention is directed to the short hair around the

face and the longer hair toward the center back .
Simplicity of line is the keynote , so be sure the hair
is properly shaped .

IVAN

083
030

HOW TO SET
‫مل‬
Finger wave the first ridge and make back curls 1 , 2 , and 3 directly Follow the same setting
below it . (When curls follow the ridge of a wave do not use inch procedure as you used
square sections . Rather , pick up the top layer of hair just below on the left side .
the ridge and then make the curls . )

Now finger wave the second ridge and make forward curls 4 , 5 and 6 .
Finger wave the half- wave over the ear and make the remaining curls .

(Noticethat the half - wave over the ear slants up toward the face .
This angle is more becoming .)

HOW TO COMB

Brush hair vigorously . The curls will " open up " and fall into deep , lasting , natural - looking

This is called the " skip - wave technique " and is the top secret of prize winning hairstylists .
22
 A rather unusual part is the basis for this
style . The top hair is parted off from temple
to temple .

The sides are combed back from the face and

then brought forward over the ears .

Some of the back hair is combed forward in

d

1
order to get extra fullness over the ears .

IVAN

888

HOW TO SET

The dotted line indicates how the Set both sides as illustrated in this
top hair is parted off. drawing .

Set the half - wave first , and then make Be sure the side hair is combed back
the curls in the order and direction from the face before combing for-
shown . ward to make the half- wave over
the ears .

HOW TO COMB
top
the

for

be

Comb and brush first The hair curls and should quite short and tapered well
so
3
1

2
,

,
.

the

the hair will flair into place The rest

be

top
of

the hair should brushed over palm your hand

or of
.
the

the

roll insert crepe wool

in

and ends turned under For additional fullness backcomb

the hair
(

,
.
).

Comb the sides

back and then forward over the ears .

23
Hairstyles for 20 to 60 age gra

For women in their early twenties , we suggest

"planned casualness . " The hairdress should be soft
looking , but not quite as flowing as the styles we
would design for teen - agers .

The few short wisps framing the forehead give the

desired naturalness .

HOW TO SET
VAN

The first and third rows of curls Comb the side hair up and push The back hair is combed down
are turned in the same direction . into a half - wave . and set in curls in the order
and direction indicated .
The center row goes in the Make the curls in the order
other direction . numbered .

When rows of curls are set in The left side is set the same way .
opposite directions , they can be
brushed and combed into waves .

HOW TO COMB

The sides and top are brushed up on top . The short ends are allowed to fall casually .

To hold the side hair in place , insert small combs just back of the half - wave .

The back is brushed out loosely .

24
 "Up-dos " should have simple , graceful lines-
good taste will be our guide .

Hairstyles in this group are often overloaded

with countless little curls and narrow waves .
This defeats the purpose intended .

IVAN

HOW TO SET

Part the hair off along The right side hair is The left side is set like Swirl the back hair up ,
the dotted line . set in nine reverse curls . the right side except a and make three large,
short half - wave is first flat curls in the crown
Set the half- wave and Be sure you comb the made near the part. area .
make the curls . hair in a back and up
direction as you make
each curl .

HOW TO COMB

Comb out the top and right side together . Comb over the palm of your hand and fold the ends under .
(Crepe wool or backcombing the hair is suggested for extra fullness . )
The left side is combed up into a reverse roll .

Comb the back hair up on an angle , insert comb , and turn the ends into large flat curls .
25
 This style features the Shingle Plus Haircut

It
varies

"
"

.
in length from one and one fourth inches

at
the neck

-
to four inch length

in
the crown area

.
VAN

(
HOW TO SET

Make half wave and Comb the side hair Comb the right side Make the part on
a

the
-

set curls as shown back and up to form hair almost straight up angle shown
.

the half wave and set the half wave

-

-
.

Set thehalf wave in the

-

All the curls are turned Then make the curls crown area and make
,

in downward direc- in the order shown the curls in the order

a

tion and direction indicated

.

HOW TO COMB

Brush with upward strokes following the lines illustrated the setting instructions
in
,

When giving the permanent use the small curlers insure tight curl on the short hair
to

Caution
at
a
:

the neck This haircut requires end curl permanents about once every six weeks
.

26
 Here we have the world famous " Middy Hair-
style . "is called Middy because it is midway
It
between long and short .

Because the Middy is short on top and at the

sides , it is the perfect haircut for permanent
waving . It is easy to care for , comfortable to
wear , and becoming to women of all ages .

It is estimated that about fifty percent of the

American women prefer a Middy , and for this
reason it is probably the most popular style of
all times .

VAN

HOW TO SET
‫ةرش‬

Make half wave and Comb the side hair up Comb the side hair up Comb the back hair
a

the curls as shown

set and back from the face and back from the face away from the cowlick
.

Set the half wave Set the half wave like spokes come out
-

.
-

of the hub of wheel

a

Then make the curls in Make the curls as

the order shown shown half wave
Set the curved
-
.
.

and make the curls

.

HOW TO COMB

First thoroughly brush

all

the hair
.

Comb the sides with lifting motion

of

the comb
a

Distribute the back hair like the spokes

of

on

wheel and fluff out the hair the neck

a
"

"

.
are
As

always perfect results dependent upon good haircut

a
,

27
 How to do the basic rolls
TOP REVERSE ROLL
SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The hair in front should be at least six
inches in length .
Make a rectangular part . The larger the
rectangular part , the larger the roll will be.
Next , subdivide the rectangular part into
sections about an inch square .
Comb the hair in each section straight
back and make the curls in the order
numbered .

HOW TO COMB
After drying , all the curls are combed out together in a back
direction over the palm of your hand , and the ends turned under .

TOP HALF - WAVE REVERSE ROLL

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
Hair in front should be about six and
one - half inches long .
Set the half - wave and make the curls in
the order and direction indicated .

Two rows of curls are usually sufficient to

make this type roll , but three rows of curls
may be used if a larger roll is desired .

HOW TO COMB
The half - wave and curls are combed out together over the palm
of your hand. Turn the ends under.

TOP FULL WAVE REVERSE ROLL

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
Hair in front should be about seven
inches long .

8888 First make the half - wave , and then over-

lapping curls 1 through 6. ( If the hair is
aaaaao long and thick , the curls will overlap .)
Then the second ridge is made followed
by two rows of curls .
HOW TO COMB
Thoroughly brush the wave and curls out together . Curls 1
through 6 will " open up " and blend into the second ridge ,
making it deep and natural looking .
Comb over the palm of your hand and turn the ends under .
28
 SIDE REVERSE ROLL

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The hair nearest the face should be about
six inches long.

Section off the side hair .

Working with blocks about an inch

square , comb the hair in a back and up
direction and make the curls in the order
numbered .

HOW TO COMB
Comb all the curls in a back and up direction , over the palm of
your hand . Turn the ends under .

SIDE HALF -WAVE REVERSE ROLL

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The hair nearest the face should be about
six and one -half inches long .
Make the down half- wave followed by
two rows of up curls .
HOW TO COMB
The half - wave and curls are combed out together in a back and
up direction . The ends are turned under .

SIDE FULL WAVE REVERSE ROLL

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The hair nearest the face should be about
seven inches long .

3333 Make the up half- wave , followed by one

row of down overlapping curls . The
second ridge is made followed by two
OPPDRD
rows of up curls .

HOW TO COMB
Thoroughly brush the wave and all the curls together . Curls 1
through 6 will " open up " and blend into the second ridge , mak-
ing it deep and natural looking. Comb over the palm of your
hand and turn the ends under.

29
 How to do the basic bangs
FLUFF BANGS

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The top hair is cut from three to four
inches in length , and is set in forward
curls as illustrated .

Do not attempt fluff bangs if the top hair

is over four inches long because it will
fall into curls instead of fluffing .
HOW TO COMB
Simply run the comb through the curls and allow the hair to
fall into a casual fluff .

HALF - WAVE BANGS

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The top hair is four inches long in front
and six inches long in back .
Special attention is called to the curls in
the first row which are turned backward .
The other two rows of curls are turned
forward .

HOW TO COMB
All the curls are vigorously
combed and brushed out together .
Then comb the hair over the palm of one hand and pinch the
half-wave into the hair .
As in all bangs , be sure to arrange in subtle , soft curves .

FULL WAVE BANGS

SETTING INSTRUCTIONS
The hair nearest the face is five and one-
half inches long , and the hair in back is
seven and one - half inches long .
Notice that the front two rows of curls
are turned backward , and curls in the
third row are turned forward .
HOW TO COMB
It isessential with this type of bangs that the curls be thoroughly
brushed and combed . The more you brush the deeper and more
natural the wave becomes . Comb the hair over the palm of one
hand and push the wave into the bangs so it takes a graceful
curve . Turn the ends under . For additional fullness , use rats or
backcomb the hair on the underneath side .

30
 History
Venus , Helen of Troy , Cleopatra ,
Madame de Pompadour , Marie Antoinette , Empress
Josephine , and Madame Recamier were some of the
famous beauties of history who have influenced and
were responsible in a measure for the art of hair-
styling as we know it now . During the last fifty years
such famous groups of women as The Gibson Girls ,
Motion Picture Stars , and professional models have
had a powerful effect on hairstyling .

IVAN

This " Ship Coiffure " was worn about 1765.

Conclusion
Above you see an elaborate historical coiffure . The modern style trend is illustrated throughout
this book .

The future ? Watching it unfold will be an interesting adventure . But whatever the trend , we know
art

that becoming hairstyles are possible only when designed in accordance with the basic principles
incorporated the hairstyling method featured
in

in

this book
.
all

simplicity this book does not imply that one may hope match the technical perfection
its

to

For
,
of

of

licensed beauticians who have natural aptitude years experience and specialized back-
a

a
,
,

provide American women with basic knowledge art principles

of

ground The real objective

to
is

a
.

As

they may quickly judge which styles are suitable and becoming
of
so

necessity the mother

is
"
.

perfection the child

so

of

invention practice
is
,

"
.

IVAN
of Hollywood
31
 (

IVAN

32
 Creative & HAIRSTYLING

HAIRSHAPING
DO
CAN
You

IVAN
Hollywood
of
128 208
Large Beautiful
Pages Illustrations

IVAN OF HOLLYWOOD is also the author of " CREATIVE HAIRSHAPING

& HAIRSTYLING " -the most complete textbook ever written on the subjects

of haircutting and hairstyling .

"CREATIVE HAIRSHAPING & HAIRSTYLING " has already become the

best selling textbook field and has been adopted by leading beauty
its

in
,

schools throughout the world

.

Books published and distributed by IVAN OF HOLLYWOOD

,

O. Box 2494 Hollywood 28 California

P.

HAIRSTYLES FOR YOU 1.00

" "

$
"

)
(

CREATIVE HAIRSHAPING HAIRSTYLING

&

"
What famous Hollywood beauty
authorities have to say about this
"How - to - do - it" new book :

" Here , in his second book ' HAIRSTYLES FOR YOU ,' Ivan's written material
and superb illustrations again show the fine points of hairshaping and
hairstyling in such a way that even a non - professional can grasp the ideas ."

Pere Westmore
Director of Make- up and Hairstyling ,
Warner Bros. Studios

"I think ' HAIRSTYLES FOR YOU ' is a very remarkable book in every way
and should become a No. 1 best -seller overnight . There is a great need for
a book of this kind and I want to congratulate you on the masterful way in
which you have illustrated and presented the facts of artistic and appro-
priate hairstyling so that even a child could understand . I shall always
wonder how you managed to cram so much information into only thirty - two
pages , thus enabling you to offer the book for sale at a price within the
reach of all . I have shown the book to others here in the Make - up and
Hairstyling Department at R.K.O. and they are all enthusiastic about it ,
particularly the hundred or more crystal - clear illustrations . "

R. Gordon Bau
Director of Make - up, R.K.O. PICTURES
Hollywood , California

" Knowledge
YOU ' is a
of proper hairstyling
must
- as explained
for models and all women
in ' HAIRSTYLES

in search of beauty . "

FOR

Dorothy Preble
Director , DOROTHY PREBLE MODELING
AND CHARM SCHOOL ,
Hollywood , California
DATE DUE
ARCH