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O
h that first walled city! It was the first of many walled cities,
many of them so small that it did not take us more than a
quarter of an hour to cross from gate to gate; but to enter
one and all was like opening a door into the past, into the life our
forbears lived before the country I was born and brought up in was
ever thought of. When I was a little girl, I cherished a desire to
marry a German baron, a German baron of the Middle Ages, who
lived in a castle, and I could not help thinking, as the influenza left
me and I regained my powers of thought, that here were the towns
of my German baron's time—dirt and all. In my childhood I had
never thought of the dirt, or perhaps I had not minded. One thing is
certain, in the clean land of my childhood I never realised what the
dirt that comes from a packed population, from seething humanity,
can be like. The Chinese live in these crowded towns for the sake of
security—of security in this twentieth century—for even still, China
seems to be much in the condition of Europe of the Middle Ages,
safety cannot be absolutely counted upon inside the gates of a town,
but at least it is a little safer than the open country.
We passed through T'ung Chou when the soft tender evening
shadows were falling upon battlements and walls built by a nation
that, though it is most practical, is also one of the most poetical on
earth; we passed through Chi Chou when the shadows were long in
the early morning, and in the sunlight was the hope of the new-born
day. Through the gate was coming a train of Peking carts, of laden
donkeys, of great grain carts with seven mules, all bound for the
capital in the south.
I remember these two perhaps because they were the first of
many walled towns, but Tsung Hua Chou will always remain in my
memory as my own little walled city, the one that I explored
carefully all by myself, and, when I think of a walled town, my
thoughts always fly back to that little town, three-quarters of a mile
square, at the foot of the hills that mark the limit of the great plain
of China proper.
It was Tuan's suggestion we should stay there. I would have
lingered at the tombs, but he was emphatic.
“Missie want make picture. More better we stop Tsung Hua Chou.
Fine picture Tsung Hua Chou.”
There weren't fine pictures at Tsung Hua Chou. He had struck up
a great friendship with the “cartee man,” and, perhaps, either he or
the “cartee man” had a favourite gaming-house, or a favourite
singing girl in the town. At any rate we went, and I, for some hardly
explainable reason, am glad we did.
The road from the tombs was simply appalling. The hills frowned
down on us, close on either side, high and steep and rugged, but
the rough valley bottom, up which we went, was the wildest I was to
see for a long time. To say I was tossed and jolted, is to but mildly
express the condition of affairs. I sat on a cushion, I packed my
bedding round me, and with both my hands I held on to the side of
the cart, and if for one moment I relaxed the rigidity of my aching
arms, my head or some other portion of my aching anatomy, was
brought into contact with the woodwork of the cart, just in the place
I had reckoned the woodwork could not possibly have reached me.
There were little streams and bridges across them, which I
particularly dreaded, for the bridges were always roughly paved, but
it was nobody's business to see that the road and the pavement met
neatly, and the jolt the cart gave, both getting on and getting off,
nearly shook the soul out of my body. I thought of walking, for our
progress was very slow, but in addition to the going being bad, the
mules went just a little faster than I did, three and a half miles an
hour to my three, and I felt there was nothing for it but to resign
myself and make the best of a bad job. Not for worlds would I have
lingered an hour longer on that road than I was absolutely obliged.
And yet, bad as it was, it was the best road I had till I got back to
Peking again. There may be worse roads than those of China, and
there may be worse ways of getting over them than in a Peking cart,
but I do trust I never come across them.
We entered the gates of the city as the evening shadows were
growing long, and as usual, I was carried back to the days of the
Crusaders—or farther still to Babylon—as we rumbled under the
arched gateway, but inside it was like every other town I have seen,
dirty, sordid, crowded, with uneven pavements that there was no
getting away from. Within the curtain wall, that guarded the gate,
there were the usual little stalls for the sale of cakes, big, round, flat
cakes and little scone-like cakes, studded with sesame seed, or a
bright pink sweetmeat; there were the sellers of pottery ware,
basins and pots of all sorts, and the people stared at the foreign
woman, the wealthy foreign woman who ran to two carts. It is an
unheard-of thing in China for a Chinese woman to travel alone,
though sometimes the foreign missionary women do, but they would
invariably be accompanied by a Chinese woman, and one woman
would not be likely to have two carts. One thing was certain
however, my outfit was all that it should have been, bar the lack of a
male protector. It bespoke me a woman of wealth and position in
the eyes of the country folk, and the people of the little towns
through which I passed. It is possible that a mule litter might have
enhanced my dignity; but after all, two Peking carts was very much
like having a first-class compartment all to myself.
There were no foreigners, that I could hear of, in Tsung Hua Chou.
The missionaries had fled during the Boxer trouble, and never come
back, so that I was more of a show than usual, though indeed, in all
the towns I passed through I was a show, and the people stared,
and chattered, and crowded round the carts, and evidently closely
questioned the carters.
They tell me Chinese carters are often rascals, but I grew to like
mine very much before we parted company.
They were stolid men in blue, with dirty rags wrapped round their
heads to keep off the dust, and I have no reason to suppose that
they affected water any more than the rest of the population,
whereby I perceive, my affections are not so much guided by a
desire for cleanliness as I had once supposed. They both had the
hands of artists, artists with very dirty nails, so it may be a feeling of
brotherhood had something to do with my feelings, for I am hoping
you who read will count me an artist in a small way. What romance
they wove about me, for the benefit of the questioning people, I
don't know, but the result of their communications was that the
crowd pressed closer, and stared harder, and they were evil-smelling,
and had never, never in all their lives been washed. I ceased to
wonder that I ached all over with the jolting and rumbling of the
cart, I only wondered if something worse had not befallen me, and
how it happened that these people, who crowded round, staring as
if never in their lives had they seen a foreign woman before, did not
fall victims to some horrible pestilence.
For once inside Tsung Hua Chou I saw no beauty in it, for all the
romantic walls outside. The evil-smelling streets we rumbled through
to the inn were wickedly narrow, and down the centre hung notices
in Chinese characters on long strips of paper white and red, and
pigs, and children, and creaking wheelbarrows, and men with loads,
blocked the way. But we jolted over the step into the courtyard of
the inn at last, quite a big courtyard, and quite a busy inn. This was
an inn where they apparently ran a restaurant, for as I climbed stiffly
out of my cart a servant, carrying a tray of little basins containing
the soups and stews the Chinese eat, was so absorbed in gazing at
me he ran into the “cartee man,” and a catastrophe occurred which
was the occasion of much bad language.
The courtyard was crowded. There were blue-tilted Peking carts,
there were mules, there were donkeys, there were men of all sorts;
but there was only one wretched little room for me. It was very dirty
too, and I was very tired. What was to be done?
“Plenty Chinese gentlemen sleep here,” declared Tuan, and I could
quite believe it. At the door of every lattice-windowed room that
looked out on to that busy courtyard, stood one, or perhaps two
Chinese of the better class—long petticoats, shaven head, queue
and all—each held in his hand a long, silver-mounted pipe from
which he took languid whiffs, and he looked under his eyelids, which
is the polite way, at the foreign woman. The foreign woman was
very dirty, very tired, and very uncomfortable, and the room looked
very hopeless. The “cartee men” declared that this was the best inn
in the town, and anyhow I was disinclined to go out and look for
other quarters. Then there came tottering forward an old woman
with tiny feet, one eye and a yellow flower stuck in the knot at the
back of her bald head. China is the country of bald women. The
men, I presume, would not mind it very much, as for so long they
have shaven off at least half their hair, but the women certainly
must, for if they can they dress their dark hair very elaborately. And
yet have I seen many women, like this innkeeper's wife, with a head
so bald that but a few strands of hair cover its nakedness, yet those
few poor hairs are gathered together into an arrangement of black
silk shaped something like a horn, and beside it is placed a flower, a
rose, a pink oleander blossom, or a bright yellow flower for which I
have no name. That flower gives a finish to a sleek and well-dressed
head, when the owner has plenty of hair, but when she has only the
heavy horn of silk, half a dozen hairs, and the rest of her bald pate
covered with a black varnish, it is a poor travesty. When a girl
marries, immediately after her husband has lifted her veil and she is
left to the women of his family they pluck out the front hairs on her
forehead, so as to give a square effect, and the hair is drawn very
tightly back and gathered generally into this horn. I suspect this
heavy horn is responsible for the baldness, though an American of
my acquaintance declares it is the plucking out of the hairs on the
forehead. “The rest of the hair,” says he, “kinder gets discouraged.”
This innkeeper's wife was very kindly. She said I should not sleep
in that room, I should have her room, and she would go to her
mother's. The mother was a surprise to me. I hope when I am as
old as she looked I shall have a mother to go to.
Now I do not as a rule embrace my landlady. In England I couldn't
even imagine myself feeling particularly kindly towards a dirty little
woman clad in a shirt and trousers of exceedingly dirty blue cotton,
but the intention was so evidently kind and hospitable, I knew not a
word of her tongue, and was by no means sure the valued Tuan
would translate my words of thanks properly, so I could but take
both her very dirty little hands in mine, clasp them warmly, and try
and look my thanks.
Then I inspected her room. It was approached through an
entrance where lime was stored, it was rather dark, and it was of
good size, though on one side was stacked a supply of stores for the
restaurant. Chinese macaroni, that looks as if it were first cousin to
sheet gelatine, stale eggs and other nondescript eatables. There was
a k'ang, of course, quite a family k'ang, and there was a large mirror
on one wall. I had forgotten my camp mirror, so I looked in it
eagerly, and the reflection left me chastened. I hadn't expected the
journey to improve my looks, but I did hope it had not swelled up
one cheek, and bunged up the other eye. I felt I did not want to
stay in the room with that mirror, but there were other things worse
than the mirror in it. The beautiful lattice-work window had
apparently never been opened since the first cover of white tissue
paper had been put on it, and the smell of human occupancy there
defies my poor powers of description. The dirty little place I had at
first disdained, had at least a door opening on to the comparatively
fresh air of the courtyard. I told Tuan to explain that while I was
delighted to see her room, and admired everything very much in it,
nothing would induce me to deprive her of its comforts. She
certainly was friendly. As I looked in the chastening mirror, I, like a
true woman, I suppose, put up a few stray locks that the jolting cart
had shaken out of place, and she promptly wanted to do my hair
herself with a selection from an array of elderly combs with which
she probably dressed her own scanty locks. That was too much. I
had to decline, I trust she thought it was my modesty, and then she
offered me some of the macaroni. I tried to say I had nothing to
give in return and then Tuan remarked, “As friend, as friend.” So as a
friend, from that little maimed one-eyed old woman up in the hills of
China, I took a handful of macaroni and had nothing to give in
return. I hope she feels as friendly towards me as I shall always do
towards her.
It is not always that the difficulty of giving a return present is on
the foreign side, sometimes it is the Chinese who feel it. I remember
a traveller for a business house telling me how on one occasion he
had gone to a village and entertained the elders at dinner, giving
them brandy which they loved, and liqueurs which seemed to the
unsophisticated village fathers ambrosia fit for the gods. The next
day, when he was about to take his departure, a small procession
approached him and one of them bore on a tray a little Chinese
handleless cup covered with another. They said he could speak
Chinese, so there was no need for an interpreter, that he had given
them a very good time, they were very grateful, and they wished to
make him a present by which he might remember them sometimes.
But their village was poor and small. It contained nothing worth his
acceptance, and after much consultation, they had come to the
conclusion that the best way would be to present him with the
money, so that he might buy something for himself when he came to
Peking or some other large town. Thereupon the cup was presented,
the cover lifted off, and in the bottom lay a ten cent piece, worth
about twopence halfpenny. Probably it seemed quite an adequate
present to men who count their incomes by cash of which a
thousand go to the dollar.
I don't think my landlady minded much my declining the
hospitality of her room. Possibly she only wished me to see its
glories, and presently she brought to the little room I had at first so
despised, and now looked upon, if not as a haven of rest, at least as
one of fresh air, a couple of nice hard wood stools, and a beautifully
carved k'ang table thick with grease.
“Say must make Missie comfortable,” said Tuan with the usual
suggestion he had done it himself.
And those stools were covered, much to my surprise, with red
woollen tapestry, and the pattern was one that I had seen used
many a time in a little town on the Staffordshire moors, where their
business is to dye and print. And here was one of the results of their
labours, a “Wardle rag,” as we used to call them, up among the hills
of Northern China.
I was too tired to do anything but go to bed that night as soon as
I had had my dinner. I had it, as usual, on the k'ang table, the dirt
shrouded by my humble tablecloth, and curious eyes watched me,
even as I watched the trays of full basins and the trays of empty
ones that were for ever coming and going across the courtyard.
Next morning my friendly landlady brought to see me two other
small-footed women, both smoking long pipes, women who said,
through Tuan, their ages were forty and sixty respectively, and who
examined, with interest, me and my belongings. They felt my boots
so much, good, substantial, leather-built by Peter Yapp, that at last I
judged they would like to see what was underneath, and took off a
boot and stocking for their inspection, and the way they felt my foot
up and down as if it were something they had never before met in
their lives, amused me very much, At least at first it amused me,
and then it saddened me. Though they held out their own poor
maimed feet, they did not return the compliment much as I desired
it. They took me across the courtyard into another room where,
behind lattice-work windows, that had not been opened for ages,
were two more women sitting on the k'ang, and two little shaven-
headed children. These were younger women, tall and stout, with
feet so tiny, they called my attention to them, that it did not seem to
me possible any woman could support herself upon them. My boy
was not allowed in, so of course I could not talk to them, could only
smile and drink tea.
These two younger women, who were evidently of superior rank,
had their hair most elaborately dressed and wore most gorgeous
raiment. One was clad in purple satin with a little black about it, and
the other, a mere girl of eighteen, but married, for her hair was no
longer in a queue, and her forehead was squared, wore a coat of
pale blue silk brocade and grass-green trousers of the same
material. Their faces were impassive, as are the faces of Chinese
women of the better class, but they smiled, evidently liked their
tortured feet to be noticed, gave me tea from the teapot on the
k'ang table, and then presently all four, with the gaily dressed
babies, tottered out into the courtyard, the older women leading the
toddling children, and helping the younger, and, with the aid of
settles, they climbed into two Peking carts, my elderly friends taking
their places on the outside, whereby I judged they were servants or
household slaves.
“Chinese wives,” said Tuan, but whether they were the wives of
one man, or of two, I had no means of knowing. The costumes of
the two younger were certainly not those in which I would choose to
travel on a Chinese road in a Peking cart, but the Chinese have a
proverb: “Abroad wear the new, at home it does not matter,” so they
probably thought my humble mole-coloured cotton crêpe, equally
out of place.
And when they were gone I set out to explore the town.
It was only a small place, built square, with two main roads
running north, and south, and east, and west, and cutting each
other at right angles in the heart of it. They were abominably paved.
No vehicle but a springless Peking cart would have dreamt of making
its way across that pavement, but then probably no vehicle save a
cart or a wheelbarrow in all the years of the city's life had ever been
thought of there. The remaining streets were but evil-smelling alley-
ways, narrow in comparison with the main ways which, anywhere
else, I should have deemed hopelessly inadequate, thronged as they
were with people and encroached upon by the shops that stood
close on either side. They had no glass fronts, of course, these
shops, but otherwise, they were not so very unlike the shops one
sees in the poorer quarters of the great towns in England. But there
was evidently no Town Council to regulate the use to which the
streets should be put. The dyer hung his long strips of blue cloth half
across the roadway, careless of the convenience of the passer-by,
the man who sold cloth had out little tables or benches piled with
white and blue calico—I have seen tradesmen do the same in King's
Road, Chelsea—the butcher had his very disagreeable wares fully
displayed half across the roadway, the gentleman who was making
mud bricks for the repair of his house, made them where it was
handiest in the street close to the house, and the man who sold
cooked provisions, with his little portable kitchen and table, set
himself down right in the fairway and tempted all-comers with little
basins of soup, fat, pale-looking steamed scones, hard-boiled eggs
or meat turnovers.
This place, hidden behind romantic grey walls, at which I had
wondered in the evening light, was in the morning just like any other
city, Peking with the glory and beauty gone out of it, and the people
who thronged those streets were just the poorer classes of Peking,
only it seemed there were more naked children and more small-
footed women with elaborately dressed hair tottering along,
balancing themselves with their arms. I met a crowd accompanying
the gay scarlet poles, flags, musical instruments and the red sedan
chair of a wedding. The poor little bride, shut up in the scarlet chair,
was going to her husband's house and leaving her father's for ever.
It is to be hoped she would find favour in the sight of her husband
and her husband's women-folk. It was more important probably, that
she should please the latter.
The bridal party made a great noise, but then all in that town was
noise, dirt, crowding, and evil smells. The only peaceful place in it
was the courtyard of the little temple close against the city wall.
Outside it stand two hideous figures with hands flung out in
threatening attitude, and inside were more figures, all painted in the
gayest colours. What they meant I have not lore enough to know,
but they were very hideous, the very lowest form of art.
There was the recording angel with a black face and the open
book—after all, the recording angel must often wear a black face—
and there was the eternal symbol that has appealed through all ages
to all people, and must appeal one would think above all, to this
nation that longs so ardently for offspring, the mother with the child
upon her knee. But they were all ugly to my Western eyes, and the
only thing that charmed me was the silence, the cleanliness, and the
quiet of the courtyard, the only place in all the busy little city that
was at peace.
When I engaged Tuan I had thought he was to do all the waiting
upon me I needed, but it seems I made a mistake. The farther I got
from Peking the greater his importance became, and here he could
not so much as carry for me the lightest wrap. His business
appeared to be to engage other people to do the work. There was
one dilapidated wretch to carry the camera, another the box with
the plates, and yet a third bore the black cloth I would put over my
head to focus my pictures properly. It was not a bit of good
protesting, two minutes after I got rid of one lot of followers,
another took their place, and as everyone had to be paid,
apparently, I often thought, for the pleasure of looking at me, I
resigned myself to my fate.
Accompanied by all the idlers and children in the town I climbed
the ramp on to the walls, which are in perfect order, three miles
round and on the top from fifteen feet to twenty broad. That ramp
must have been always steep, the last thing a Chinese ever thinks
about is comfort, steep almost as the walls themselves, and
everywhere the stones are gone, making it a work of difficulty to
climb to the top. Tuan helped me in approved Chinese fashion,
putting his hand underneath my elbow, and once I was there the
town was metamorphosed, it was again the romantic city I had seen
from the plain in the evening light. Now the early morning sunlight,
with all the promise of the day in it, fell upon graceful curved
Chinese roofs and innumerable trees, dainty with the delicate vivid
verdure that comes in the spring as a reward to a country where the
winter has been long, bitter, and iron-bound.
The walls of most Chinese cities are built square, with right angles
at the four corners, but in at least two that I have been in, T'ung
Chou and Pao Ting Fu, one corner is built out in a bow. I rather
admired the effect at first, till I found it was a mark of deepest
disgrace. There had been a parricide committed in the town. When
such a terrible thing occurs a corner of the city wall must be pulled
down and built out; a second one, another corner is pulled down
and built out, and a third likewise; but the fourth time such a crime
is committed in the luckless town the walls must be razed to the
ground. But such a disgrace has never occurred in any town in the
annals of Chinese history, those age-long annals that go back farther
than any other nation's, for if a town should be so unlucky as to
have harboured four such criminals within its walls they generally
managed, by the payment of a sum of money, to get a city that had
some of its corners still intact to take the disgrace upon itself.
I strongly suspect too, that it is only when the offender is in high
places that his crime is thus commemorated, for I have only heard of
these two cases, and yet as short a while ago as 1912 there was a
terrible murder in Pao Ting Fu that shocked the town. It appeared
there was an idle son, who instead of working for his family, spent
all his time attending to his cage bird, taking it out for walks,
encouraging it to sing, hunting the graves outside the town for
insects for it. His poor old mother sighed over his uselessness.
“If it were not for the bird!” said she.
The young blood in China, it seems, goes to the dogs over a cage
bird, a lark or a thrush, as the young man in modern Europe comes
to grief over horse-racing, so we see that human nature is the same
all the world over. This Chinese mother brooded over her boy's
wasted life, and one day when he was out she opened the cage door
and the bird flew away.
When he came in he asked for the bird and she said nothing, only
with her large, sharp knife went on shredding up the vegetables that
she was putting into a large cauldron of boiling water for supper. He
asked again for the bird. Still she took no notice, and he seized her
knife and slit her up into small pieces and put her into the cauldron.
He was taken, and tried, and was put to death by slicing into a
thousand pieces—yes, even in modern China—but they did not think
it necessary to pull down another corner of the city wall. Possibly
they felt the disgrace of a bygone age was enough for Pao Ting Fu.
The corners of the walls of Tsung Hua Chou were as they were
first built, rectangular, and the watch-towers at those corners and
over the four gates from the distance looked imposing, all that they
should be, but close at hand I saw that they were tumbling into
ruins, the doors were fallen off the hinges, the window-frames were
broken, all was desolate and empty.
“Once the soldier she watch here,” said my boy, whose pronouns
were always somewhat mixed.
“Why not now?”
“No soldier here now. She go work in gold mine ninety li away.
Gold mine belong Plesident.”
Tuan had got as far as the fact that a President had taken the
place of the Manchu Emperor, but I wondered very much whether
the inhabitants of Tsung Hua Chou had. I meditated on my way back
to “Missie's inn” on the limitations of the practical Chinese mind that
because it is practical, I suppose, cannot conceive of the liberty,
equality, and fraternity that a Republic denotes. The President, to
the humble Chinese in the street, has just taken the place of the
Emperor, he is the one who rules over them, his soldiers are
withdrawn. That there was a war in Mongolia, a rebellion impending
in the south, were items of news that had not reached the man in
the street in Tsung Hua Chou who, feeling that the soldiers must be
put to some use, concluded they were working in the President's
gold mine ninety li away.
A foreigner went to a Chinese tailor the other day to make him a
suit of clothes, and he found occasion to complain that the
gentleman's prices had gone up considerably since he employed him
last. The man of the scissors was equal to the occasion, and
explained that, since “revelations,” so many Chinese had taken to
wearing foreign dress, he was obliged to charge more.
“You belong revolution?” asked the inquiring foreigner, anxious to
find out how far liberty, fraternity, and equality had penetrated.
The tailor looked at him more in sorrow than in scorn. How could
he be so foolish.
“I no belong revelation,” he explained carefully, as one who was
instructing where no instruction should have been necessary. The
thing was self-evident, “I belong tailor man.”
When the revolution first dawned upon the country people all they
realised—when they realised anything at all—was that there was no
longer an Emperor, therefore they supposed they would no longer
have to pay taxes. When they found that Emperor or no Emperor
taxes were still required of them, they just put the President in the
Emperor's place. I strongly suspect that if the greater part of the
inhabitants of my walled city were to be questioned as to the
revolution they would reply like the tailor: “No belong revolution,
belong Tsung Hua Chou!”
But in truth the civilisation of China is still so much like that of
Babylon and Nineveh, that it is best for the poor man, if he can, to
efface himself. He does not pray for rights as yet. He only prays that
he may slip through life unnoticed, that he may not come in contact
with the powers that rule him, for no matter who is right or who is
wrong bitter experience has taught him that he will suffer.
We do not realise that sufficiently in the West when we talk of
China. We judge her by our own standards. The time may come
when this may be a right way of judging, but it has not come yet.
Rather should we judge as they judged in the days of the old
Testament, in the days of Nineveh and Babylon, when the
proletariat, the slaves, were as naught in the sight of God or man.
A man told me how in the summer of 1912, travelling in the
interior, he came to a small city in one of the central provinces, a city
not unlike Tsung Hua Chou, like indeed a thousand other little cities
in this realm of Cathay. The soldiers quartered there had not been
paid, and they had turned to and looted the town. The unwise city
men, instead of submitting lest a worse thing happen unto them,
had telegraphed their woes to Peking, and orders had come down to
the General in command that the ringleaders must be executed. But
no wise General is going to be hard on his own soldiers. This
General certainly was not. Still justice had to be satisfied, and he
was not at a loss. He sent a body of soldiers to the looted shops,
where certain luckless men were sadly turning over the damaged
property. These they promptly arrested. The English onlooker, who
spoke Chinese, declared to me solemnly these arrested men were
the merchants themselves, their helpers and coolies. That was
nothing to the savage soldiery. There had to be victims. Had not the
order come from the central government. Some of the men, there
were twenty in all, they beat and left dead on the spot, the rest they
dragged to the yamen. The traveller, furious and helpless, followed.
Of course the guilt of the merchants was a foregone conclusion.
They never execute anyone who does not confess his guilt and the
justice of his sentence in China, but they have means of making sure
of the confession. Presently out the unfortunate men came again,
stripped to the waist, with their arms tied up high behind them,
prepared, in fact, for death. The soldiers dragged them along, they
protesting their innocence to unheeding ears. Their women and
children came out, running alongside the mournful procession,
clinging to the soldiers and to their husbands and fathers, and
praying for mercy. They tripped and fell, and the soldiers, the
soldiers in khaki, pushed them aside, and stepped over them, and
dragged on their victims. The traveller followed. No one took any
notice of him, and what could he do, though his heart was sore, one
against so many. Through the narrow, filthy streets they went, past
their own looted shops. They looked about them wildly, but there
was none to help, and before them marched the executioner, with a
great sharp sword in his hands, and always the soldiers in modern
uniform emphasised the barbarity of the crime. Presently they had
distanced the wailing women and were outside the walls, but the
foreign onlooker was still with them.
“And one was a boy not twenty,” he said with a sharp, indrawn
breath, wiping his face as he told the ghastly tale.
They knelt in a row, just where the walls of their own town
frowned down on them, and one by one the executioner cut off their
heads. The death of the first in the line was swift enough, but, as he
approached the end of the row the man's arm grew tired and he did
not get the last two heads right off.
“I saw one jump four times,” said the shocked onlooker, “before he
died.”
And then they telegraphed to Peking that order had been
restored, and the ringleaders executed.
Since I heard that man's story, I always read that order has been
restored in any Chinese city with a shudder, and wonder how many
innocents have suffered. For I have heard stories like that, not of
one city, or told by one man, but of various cities, and told by
different men. The Chinese, it seems to me, copy very faithfully the
European newspapers, the great papers of the Western world.
Horrors like that are never read in a Western paper, therefore you
never see such things reported in the Chinese papers. After all they
are only the proletariat, the slaves of Babylon or Nineveh. Who
counted a score or so of them slain? Order has been restored,
comes the message for the benefit of the modern world, and in the
little city the bloody heads adorn the walls and the bodies lie outside
to be torn to pieces by the wonks and the vultures.
And when I heard tales like this, I wondered whether it was safe
for a woman to be travelling alone. It is safe, of course, for the
Chinaman, strange as it may sound after telling such tales, is at
bottom more law-abiding than the average European. True, he is
more likely to insult or rob a woman than a man, because he has for
so long regarded a woman as of so much less consequence than a
man, that when he considers the matter he cannot really believe
that any nation could hold a different opinion. Still, in all probability,
she will be safe, just as in all probability she might march by herself
from Land's End to John o' Groats without being molested. She may
be robbed and murdered, and so she may be robbed and murdered
in China. The Chinese are robbed and murdered often enough
themselves poor things. Also they do not suffer in silence. They
revenge themselves when they can.
A man travelling for the British and American Tobacco Company,
he was a young man, not yet eight-and-twenty, told me how, once,
outside a small walled town, he came upon a howling mob, and
parting them after the lordly fashion of the Englishman, who knows
he can use his hands, he saw they were crowding round a pit half
filled with quicklime. In it, buried to his middle, was a ghastly
creature with his eyes scooped out, and the hollows filled up with
quicklime.
“If I had had a pistol handy,” said the teller of the tale, “I would
have shot him. I couldn't have helped myself. It seemed the only
thing to put him out of his misery, but, after all, I think he was past
all feeling, and I wonder what the people would have done to me!”
They told him, when he investigated, that this man was a robber,
that he had robbed and murdered without mercy, and so, when he
fell into their hands, they had taken vengeance. Was that Babylon,
or Nineveh, I wondered? Since such things happen in China one
feels that the age of Babylon and Nineveh has not yet gone by. Talk
with but a few men who have wandered into the interior, and you
realise the strong necessity for these walled towns.
When the rumour of the slaughter of the Manchus, and the killing
in the confusion of eight Europeans at Hsi An Fu in Shensi in October
1911, reached Peking, nine young men banded themselves together
into the Shensi Relief Force, and set out from the capital to relieve
the missionaries cut off there. One of these young men it was my
good fortune to meet, and the story of their doings, told at first
hand, unrolled for me the leaves of history. They set out to help the
men and women of their own colour, but as they passed west from
Tai Yuan Fu, again and again, the people of the country appealed to
them to stop and help them. The Elder Brother Society, the Ko Lao
Hui were on the warpath, and, with whatever good intentions this
society had originated, it was, on this way from Tai Yuan Fu to Hsi
An Fu, nothing less than a band of robbers, pillaging and murdering,
and even the walled cities were hardly a safeguard. Village after
village, with no such defences, was wrecked, burned, and destroyed,
and their inhabitants were either slain or refugees in the mountains.
And the suffering that means, with the bitter winter of China ahead
of them, is ghastly to think of. They died, of course, and those who
were slain by the robbers probably suffered the least.
“What could we do? What could we possibly do?” asked my
informant pitifully. At last they came to Sui Te Chou, a walled city,
and Sui Te Chou was for the moment triumphant. It had driven off
the robbers. The Elder Brother Society had held the little city closely
invested. They had built stone towers, and, from the top of them,
had fired into the city, and at the defenders on the walls, and, under
cover of this fire from the towers, they had attempted to scale the
battlements. But the people on the walls had pushed them down
with long spears, and had poured boiling water upon them, and,
finally, the robbers had given way, and some braves, issuing from
the south gate had fallen upon them, killing many and capturing
thirty of them. It was a short shrift for them, and a festoon of heads
adorned the gateway under which the foreigners passed.
But, though victorious, the braves of Sui Te Chou knew right well
that the lull was only momentary. They were reversing the Scriptural
order of things, and beating their ploughshares into swords. The
brigands would be back as soon as they had reinforcements, the
battle would be to the strong and it would indeed be “Woe to the
Vanquished!”
“We could not help them. We could not,” reiterated the teller of
the tale sadly; “we just had to go on.”
It was old China, he said, let us hope the last of old China. In that
town were English missionaries, a man and his wife, another man
and two little children, members of the English Baptist Church,
dressed in Chinese dress, the men with queues. These they rescued,
and took along with them, and glad were they to have two more
able-bodied men in the party, even though they were
counterbalanced by the presence of the woman and two children,
for everywhere along the track were evidences of the barbaric times
in which they lived. Human head? in wicker cages were common
objects of the wayside, and the wolves came down from the
mountains and gnawed at the dead bodies, or attacked the sick and
wounded. Old China was a ghastly place that autumn of 1911,
during the “bloodless” revolution. Chung Pu they reached
immediately after it had been attacked by six hundred men.
“I had to kick a dog away that was gnawing at a dead body as we
led the lady into a house for the night,” said the narrator. “I could
only implore her not to look.”
But at I Chün things were worse still. They reached it just as it
had fallen into the hands of the Elder Brother Society, and they
began to think they had taken those missionaries out of the frying-
pan into the fire. I Chün is a walled city up in the mountains of
Shensi, and the only approach was by a pathway so narrow that it
only allowed of one mule litter at a time. On one side was a steep
precipice, on the other the city wall, and along that wall came racing
men armed with matchlocks, spears, and swords, yelling defiance
and prepared, apparently, to attack. The worst of it was there was
no turning that litter round. They halted, and the gate ahead of
them opened, and right in the centre of the gateway was an ancient
cannon with a man standing beside it with a lighted rope in his
hand. Turn the litter and get away in a hurry they could not. Leave it
they could not. There was seemingly no escape for them. It only
wanted one of those excited men to shout “Ta, Ta,” and the match
could have been applied, and the ancient gun would have swept the
pathway. Then the leader of the band of foreigners stepped forward.
He flung away his rifle, he flung away his revolver, he flung away his
knife, and he stood there before them defenceless, with his arms
raised—modem civilisation bowing for the moment before the force
of Babylon. It was a moment of supreme anxiety. Suppose the
people misunderstood his actions.
“We scarcely dared breathe,” said the storyteller. Every heart stood
still. And then they understood. The man with the lighted rope
dropped it, and they beckoned to the strangers to come inside the
gates.
It required a good deal of courage to go inside those gates, to put
themselves in the power of the Elder Brother Society, and they spent
an anxious night. The town had been sacked, the streets ran blood,
the men were slain, their bodies were in the streets for the crows
and the wonks to feed on, and the women—well women never count
for much in China in times of peace, and in war they are the spoil of
the victor—the Goddess of Mercy was forgotten those days in I
Chün. All night long the anxious little party kept watch and ward,
and when day dawned were thankful to be allowed to proceed on
their way unmolested, eventually reaching Hsi An Fu and rescuing all
the missionaries who wished to be rescued.
“It was exciting,” said my friend, half apologising for getting
excited over it. “It was the last of old China. Such things will never
happen again.”
Exciting! it thrilled me to hear him talk, to know such things had
happened barely a year before, to know they had happened in this
country. Would they never happen again? I was not so sure of that
as I went through walled town after walled town, as I looked up at
the walls of Tsung Hua Chou. This was the correct setting. To talk in
friendly, commonplace fashion to people who lived in such towns
seemed to annihilate time, to bring the past nearer to me, to make
me understand, as I had never understood before, that the people
who had lived, and suffered, and triumphed, or lived, and suffered,
and fallen, were almost exactly the same flesh and blood as I was
myself.
Back at the inn my friend the landlady brought me her little
grandson to admire. He was a jolly little unwashed chap with a
shaven head, clad in an unwashed shift, and I think I admired him
to her heart's content. It was evidently worth having been born and
lived all the strenuous weary days of her hard life to have had part
in the bringing into the world of that grandson. His little sister in the
blue-cornered handkerchief, looking on, did not count for much, and