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Agile Processes
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Contents
Experience Reports
1 Introduction
In recent years we have witnessed a growing interest in the integration of Agile meth‐
odologies with user-centred design (UCD), in order to achieve a more holistic software
engineering approach. In fact, UCD and Agile show some complementary aspects: on
the one hand, UCD does not address how to implement the software, while Agile
provides large flexibility in accommodating changing requirements; on the other hand,
Agile does not directly address user experience (UX) aspects, although valuing customer
involvement in the development process.
However, even though the integration of UCD and Agile appears promising, it also
presents some issues and no fully satisfactory approach to it has been found yet. In
particular, three communication breakdowns [4] hampering such integration have been
identified [5], namely a variable interpretation of user involvement, a mismatch in the
value of documentation, and a misalignment in iteration phases. In this paper, we refine
this framework by discussing a new case study looking at the practices of a software
and interaction design company. To support our analysis, we define the main actors
involved and how they are mutually linked in a communication network, comparing the
latter with the one resulting from the case study presented in [5]. Despite the differences
in the two working contexts, the three themes manifest anyway and an additional point,
related to task ownership, emerges. We conclude by discussing how these
communication breakdowns can become focal points to support action and decision in
companies adopting UCD and Agile; moreover, we argue that possible solutions to these
issues need to be backed by a supportive organisational culture that recognises the value
of user contribution and actively endorses it with the customer.
2 Related Work
User Involvement. In UCD, user involvement can range from informative, to consul‐
tative, to participative [11]. In Agile instead, the emphasis is rather put on the customer
[1], who acts as a representative of users, but may or may not have direct and regular
contact with them [27, 28], to the point that some authors question the extent of such
representativeness [30] and others recommend that the customer role is supported by
members of the project team [9].
and developers [1] and in the role of documentation in this respect. In fact, UCD suggests
the use of several artefacts such as personas and prototypes to record requirements and
design rationales [28], while Agile promotes face-to-face conversation as the most
effective means of communication in its fundamental principles [3], to the point of
incorporating the customer in the development team.
Synchronisation of Iterations. There are different schools of thought about whether UCD
and Agile should be merged into a unified software engineering process, leveraging on their
common practices [19, 35, 37], or should just proceed in parallel [20, 24, 33].
3 H-umus
We will now discuss a field study performed in H-umus, presented in their website
as a “software and interaction design company”. Born in 2007 in one of the most
well known Italian venture incubators, H-umus designs and develops mobile sales
tools for the fashion industry and now belongs to a large Italian software and serv‐
ices business. The personnel include a CEO, a CTO, four project managers (two of
whom are also interaction designers), and five developers. The company adopts a
customised version of Scrum for the development and follows a loose interaction
design approach. At present, H-umus offers two main products to an established
customer portfolio: a B2B merchandising platform and a time and expenses
accounting tool. The company also follows some ad-hoc projects for more occa‐
sional customers: we consider here the development of a mobile tool for a leading
fashion brand that we will call FashionX.
3.3 Artefacts
A variety of artefacts are used in H-umus to support communication, both internally and
with the customer. In this paragraph, we will describe the most relevant ones.
Briefs. Prototypes and requirements are integrated in documents called briefs, which
crystallise the requirements; they are then iteratively revised with the customer to ensure
that both parties share the same understanding of requirements and status of advance‐
ment.
Roadmaps. For each project, the relevant project manager keeps a chart showing the
evolution of the product at a high level, including milestones to be delivered to the
customer. This chart is often linked to other documents reporting, for instance, more
extensive descriptions of functionalities or specifications of the customer’s target plat‐
forms. Roadmaps are used internally, at management level: the CEO, the CTO and
project managers refer to them to supervise the status of each project. However, if the
customer requires so, roadmaps are also used to provide long-term visibility on the
articulation of the project.
Technical Analysis. The CTO elaborates this document for each project: it includes
finalised interface mockups, a description of the data flow and of the data structure, cost
and time estimates, and a finer-grained breakdown of development tasks. The technical
analysis serves two purposes: internally, it is a reference for developers to determine
what to implement in the next sprints; externally and if needed, it can provide the
customer with a detailed understanding of the implementation process.
3.4 Findings
In the following, we discuss the results of the interviews with the H-umus staff, cate‐
gorising the narratives according to the three communication breakdowns constituting
our framework. Citations in the next paragraphs will be attributed to interviewees as
follows: Dev for developers; Des for designers; PM for project managers who are not
designers; Mgmt for the CTO and the CEO.
User Involvement. The distinction between customers and users is very sharp and
project managers usually communicate only with the customer, who can be represented
by different employees at different stages of the same project. Especially when the
customer is a large company, its most appropriate representative to liaise with can be
difficult to identify and often changes over time:
Dev2: “The most difficult thing in communicating with the customer is understanding
who you should be talking to.”
Mgmt2: “You would not believe how conservative IT departments can be. Whatever
change may affect their working routine, it’s a no-no.”
There are, however, exceptions to this situation: for example, a few demos were
arranged with business and sales representatives of FashionX, i.e. with a sample of final
users, in order to collect feedback that could supplement the requirements provided by
8 S. Bordin and A. De Angeli
the IT department of the company. Yet, this only happens occasionally: usually, and as
shown in Fig. 1, the customer completely mediates user needs, requirements, and feed‐
back. This causes some concern in the H-umus management:
Mgmt2: “Then it is difficult to determine how to handle the feedback we receive and
how relevant it actually is with respect to the customer or with respect to the needs users
may truly have. […] Sometimes I wonder whom we should really satisfy. Is it the business
department or the IT department? We usually speak only to the latter. I believe this
causes a large drop in the value we deliver with our products.”
Dev1: “I do not have any contact with users […] Sometimes they are even described to
me as being as dumb as an ox, so it is paramount to design products that are very easy
to use, and I guess this is a major challenge for designers.”
Documentation. The staff has a small size and is co-located in the same open space:
hence, most coordination occurs face to face or at most through instant messaging, both
among developers and between developers and designers. This leads to a scarcity of
documentation for internal use. However, in order to avoid knowledge gaps in case
someone leaves the company, pair programming is adopted when a part of the code
needs to be modified: the task is in fact assigned both to the developer who already
worked on that code and to a “fresh” developer at the same time. In this way, in the long
run everybody will have at least an overview of all the code produced. Working in pairs
is also a common practice in the early stages of a new project, where a designer and a
developer cooperate in order to shape the design space quickly and based on an under‐
standing of what can be technically feasible.
PM1: “H-umus is a small company. If the customer first says he wants a mobile app,
and then after six months he comes and says that now he wants a standalone applica‐
tion… We cannot afford that. Unless the customer is paying for the extra time, of
course.”
Des2: “We do not have much development capacity. It can become a big issue if I draw
the mockup and then we have to go back and change fundamental parts of it.”
This protection is achieved by using several artefacts that are admittedly not typically
Agile: documents such as requirements lists and technical analyses are shared with the
customer, iteratively discussed and then signed off.
Mgmt1: “We make the customer sign the requirements document, so nobody can come
up and say: “This is not what we agreed upon”. Whatever extra, we discuss it and it is
billed on top.”
Des2: “Being able to tell the customer: “Look, this is what we suggested and you
approved it” is something that can cover our back when we need to ask for more funding
or when we just say that something is not feasible”.
Mgmt1: “I’ll show you the technical analysis we did for FashionX […] Please write
down in your notes that to me this is complete nonsense. The risk estimates and the
planning poker and stuff… It is obvious that these numbers are meaningless. Yet the
customer wants to have a long-term perspective on the project, so here it is.”
Synchronisation of Iterations. Given the small size of the company, designers and
developers work together, so synchronisation is handled through constant, direct
communication. Indeed, there is no separate process for design and for development:
for instance, design tasks such as prototyping are listed as regular user stories in the
Agile management tool in use:
Despite a general awareness among the staff of the company transitioning towards
a more design-oriented culture, the overall attitude appears to be still strongly technical.
For instance, sprint meetings only involve developers:
Mgmt1: “We are born as a data-driven company […] Sprint meetings are too technical;
designers would waste time attending them.”
Des2: “Why should the CEO’s opinion be more relevant than mine, if I designed the
interface from the beginning? Sometimes [Des1] and I refer to it as a class conflict with
the developers”
Des2: “Everybody feels entitled to comment on the design, just because each of us is a
technology user, while nobody would comment on the code unless competent. So [devel‐
opers] bring in their own use cases, but we are not developing, say, Instagram, which
only has a couple of functionalities: it is totally different. Sometimes the comments are
just “I don’t like it”. I can take it from the customer, if he pays for the extra time needed
to rework the design, otherwise I’d expect some sounder feedback.”
The rest of the team perceives this issue as well, although in variable ways:
Dev1: “Interfaces are subjective […] usability is subjective too: you need to design stuff
that is comfortable for the user, more than functional. [Des1 and Des2] do a great job
in my opinion in this respect.”
PM1: “The best way to work shouldn’t be to tell the designer how to do the things, but
just what you need; unfortunately, the customer is often unable to articulate what he
wants, and anyway we must give priority to the development to save time.”
Dev2: “We all give our opinion, but in the end it is the designer who decides.”
4 Discussion
Despite a positive attitude towards UCD, H-umus found objective difficulties in inte‐
grating it with Agile in practice. These difficulties were partially overlapping with the
communication breakdowns identified in Smart Campus [5], although the working
context of the latter was quite different from the H-umus one as illustrated by Fig. 2,
which represents the main actors in Smart Campus and their communication network.
The analysis of the H-umus case study allowed us to refine our framework, broad‐
ening the scope of identified communication breakdowns as follows.
Focal Points for a More User-Centred Agile Development 11
User Involvement. In Smart Campus, the customer and the user community were two
clearly differentiated actors; most of the team had direct contact only with the users
through a variety of communication channels such as a forum. However, the perception
of user involvement appeared to be variable between designers and developers, denoting
an underlying mismatch in the understanding of this concept: while designers struggled
to promote a participative role of the user community, developers intended such role as
informative or at most consultative instead [11]. In H-umus, the extent of user involve‐
ment remains problematic, although with a different flavour: the customer completely
mediates the interaction with the user, so the role of the latter is practically less than
informative [11]. Therefore, we can argue that the understanding of the extent of user
involvement should be shared not only inside the company (among designers, devel‐
opers, managers), but also outside, by the customer.
hard sciences. To this end, we point to the concept of boundary objects, i.e. mediating
artefacts that allow knowledge sharing and promote collaboration since their interpretive
flexibility facilitates “an overlap of meaning while preserving sufficient ambiguity” for
different groups to read their own meanings [2]. The briefs used in H-umus can be
considered as boundary objects in this sense, as they gather mockups from designers,
technical specs from developers, and business requirements from the customer, and they
act as a common reference point for monitoring the evolution of the product.
5 Conclusion
In this paper we have discussed four communication breakdowns that may affect the
integration of user-centred design and Agile development and that emerged from an
analysis of working practices in companies. Possible solutions can derive from discount
usability techniques [e.g. 13, 22] or more recent research on automatic usability evalu‐
ation tools [e.g. 21, 31]. However, we remark that communication breakdowns are
manifested at the work process level [4, 5]: hence, we suggest that their solution could
be found in a supportive organisational environment [5, 8, 11, 17], whose fundamental
importance is reiterated by the present study. As seen in H-umus, not even having
designers play the role of project managers is enough to fully endorse the UCD compo‐
nent of the working process. To leverage the full potential of the integration of UCD
and Agile, the management should actively counteract the so-called “developer mindset”
[1, 14], i.e. an approach that is overly focused on technical aspects rather than on
customer and user satisfaction, and commit to an explicit inclusion of UCD in company
goals and financial allocation [36].
We claim that the four communication breakdowns discussed in this paper can
become focal points to drive action and decision in companies, facilitating communi‐
cation between designers and developers and supporting management in the construc‐
tion of a favourable context. Our current research is addressing the development of
specific guidelines concerning how to apply such focal points in practice through addi‐
tional case studies. Nonetheless, and as already suggested in [5], we believe that design
thinking [7] can be an appropriate methodology in this respect: grounded on a “human-
centred design ethos”, it advocates a “designer’s sensibility” pervading the whole organ‐
isation, so that also technical personnel (be it part of the development or of the manage‐
ment) can be aware of the importance of meeting users’ needs with what is technolog‐
ically feasible. Inspired by design thinking, the organisational culture is likely to
empathise more with the user and to share the ownership of the UX vision among all
members of the company: this is in turn also likely to address the task ownership theme
introduced above.
However, the benefits of this internal culture may be limited if the customer does
not share its same values, preventing access to users or completely mediating the
communication with them. A direct contact with users can allow the company to deliver
a product that, although requiring a possibly longer design period, will be more suited
to the needs of people ultimately using it and will therefore bring more value to the
customer for its money. Even after many years from [23], we still need to address the
Focal Points for a More User-Centred Agile Development 13
“developer mindset” [1, 14] and persuade the customer and the technical personnel (at
least partially) of the positive cost-benefit trade-off of devoting time to user studies and
usability [32]. We insist that attainable benefits should be clearly presented to the
customer in order to win its buy-in of the principles of design thinking, its acknowl‐
edgement of the advantages of involving the users and its active collaboration in this.
We point out to the research community that however, to this end, a set of actionable
measures that can more objectively assess the positive impact of user involvement on
the quality of produced software [18] is still lacking, together with a set of less resource-
intensive practices to put such involvement in place.
Acknowledgments. Smart Campus was funded by TrentoRISE. The present work has been
possible thanks to the funding granted by the Italian Ministry of Education, University and
Research (MIUR) through the project “Città Educante”, project code CTN01_00034_393801. We
wish to thank the Smart Campus team, the students who contributed to the project, and the H-
umus team for their kind support.
Open Access. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/),
which permits any noncommercial use, duplication, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in
any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the
source, a link is provided to the Creative Commons license and any changes made are indicated.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the work’s Creative
Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in the credit line; if such material is not included in
the work’s Creative Commons license and the respective action is not permitted by statutory
regulation, users will need to obtain permission from the license holder to duplicate, adapt or
reproduce the material.
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(2006)
37. Wolkerstorfer, P. et al.: Probing an Agile usability process. In: Proceedings of the CHI, pp.
2151–2157. ACM Press (2008)
Agility Measurements Mismatch: A Validation
Study on Three Agile Team Assessments
in Software Engineering
Abstract. Many tools have been created for measuring the agility of
software teams, thus creating a saturation in the field. Three agile mea-
surement tools were selected in order to validate whether they yield sim-
ilar results. The surveys of the tools were given to teams in Company
A (N = 30). The questions were grouped into agile practices which
were checked for correlation in order to establish convergent validity. In
addition, we checked whether the questions identified to be the same
among the tools would be given the same replies by the respondents.
We could not establish convergent validity since the correlations of the
data gathered were very few and low. In addition, the questions which
were identified to have the same meaning among the tools did not have
the same answers from the respondents. We conclude that the area of
measuring agility is still immature and more work needs to be done. Not
all tools are applicable to every team but they should be selected on the
basis of how a team has transitioned to agile.
1 Introduction
Agile and plan-driven methodologies are the two dominant approaches in the
software development. Although it has been almost 20 years since the former
were introduced, the companies are quite reluctant in following them [1].
Software development teams started adopting the most known agile method-
ologies, such as eXtreme Programming [2], Feature Driven Development (FDD),
[3], Crystal [4], Scrum [5] and others. Most companies use a tailored methodology
by following some of the aforementioned processes and practices which better
suit their needs. Williams et al. [6] report that all XP practices are exercised
rarely in their pure form, something on which Reifer [7] and Aveling [8] also
agree based on the results of their surveys, which showed that it is common for
organizations to partially adopt XP. The most important issue that tends to be
neglected though, is how well these methodologies are adopted.
c The Author(s) 2016
H. Sharp and T. Hall (Eds.): XP 2016, LNBIP 251, pp. 16–27, 2016.
DOI: 10.1007/978-3-319-33515-5 2
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with Unrelated Content
REV. STEPHEN B. L. PENROSE,
President of Whitman College.
The commerce of the country, aside from its furs, was scarcely worth
mentioning. The author, in 1851, bought what few salted salmon
there were in the market, and shipped them to San Francisco, but
wise and prudent advisers regarded it as a risky venture. He would
have been considered a wild visionary, indeed, had he even hinted of
the shipments of fish now annually made to all parts of the civilized
world.
It was then known that the rivers were filled with fish. In the spring
of the year, the smaller streams, leading away from the Columbia,
were literally blocked with almost solid masses of fish on their way
to their spawning grounds. The bears along the Columbia, as well as
the Indians, had an unlimited supply of the finest fish in the world,
with scarcely an effort to take them. An Indian on the Willamette, at
the foot of the falls, could fill his boat in an hour with salmon
weighing from twenty to forty pounds.
In the spring of the year, when the salmon are running up the
Willamette, they begin to jump from the water a quarter of a mile
before reaching the falls. One could sit in a boat and see hundreds
of the great fish in the air constantly. Multitudes of them maimed
and killed themselves jumping against the rocks at the falls.
The Indian did not wait for "a rise" or "a bite." He had a hook with
an eye socket, and a pole ten feet or more long. The hook he
fastened to a deer thong, about two feet long, attached to the lower
end of the pole. When ready for fishing the pole was inserted into
the socket of the hook, and he felt for his fish, and by a sudden jerk
caught it in the belly. The hook was pulled from the pole, and the
fish had a play of the two feet of deer thong. But the Indian never
stops to experiment; he hauled in his prize.
The great forests and prairies were a very paradise for the hunters
of large game. Up to the date of 1842-3, of Dr. Whitman's ride, but a
single hundred Americans had settled in Oregon, and they seemed
to be almost accidental guests. The immigration in 1842 swelled the
list, and the caravan of 1843 started the tide, so that in 1850, as we
have seen, the first census showed an American population of
13,294.
In 1890, in contrast, the population of Washington was 349,390;
Oregon, 313,707; Idaho, 84,385, and five counties in Southwestern
Montana and one in Wyoming, originally Oregon territory, had a
population of 65,862, making a total of 813,404. Considering the
difficulties of reaching these distant States for many years, this
change, in less than half a century, is a wonderful transformation.
The Indians had held undisputed possession of the land for
generations, and yet, as careful a census as could be made, placed
their number at below 75,000. In 1892 the Indian Commissioner
marks the number at 21,057.
The great changes are seen in the fact that in 1838 there were but
thirteen settlements by white men in Oregon, viz.: That at
Waiilatpui, at Lapwai, at the Dalles and near Salem, and the Hudson
Bay Forts at Walla Walla, Colville, Fort Hall, Boise, Vancouver,
Nisqually, Umpqua, Okanogan and the settlement at Astoria. The old
missionaries felt thankful when letters reached them within two
years after they were written.
Mrs. Whitman's first letter from home was two years and six months
reaching the mission. The most sure and safe route was by way of
New York or Montreal to London, around the Horn to the Sandwich
Islands, from which place a vessel sailed every year for Columbia.
The wildest visionaries at that time had not dreamed of being bound
to the East by bands of steel, as Senator McDuffie said: "The wealth
of the Indies would be insufficient to connect by steam the Columbia
River to the States of the East." Uncle Sam seems to have been
taking a very sound and peaceful nap. He did not own California,
and was even desirous of trading Oregon for the cod fisheries of
Newfoundland.
The debt of gratitude the Americans owe to the men and women
who endured the privations of that early day, and educated the
Nation into the knowledge of its future glory and greatness, has not
been fully appreciated. The settlers of no other States of the frontier
encountered such severe tests of courage and loyalty. The Middle
States of the Great West, while they had their hardships and trials,
were always within reach of the strong arm of the Government, and
felt its fostering care, and had many comforts which were wholly
beyond the reach of the Oregon pioneers.
Their window glass for years and years was dressed deer skin; their
parlor chairs were square blocks of wood; their center tables were
made by driving down four sticks and sawing boards by hand for
top, the nearest saw mill being four hundred miles off. A ten-penny
nail was prized as a jewel, and until Dr. Whitman built his mill, a
barrel of flour cost him twenty-four dollars, and in those days that
amount of money was equal to a hundred in our times of to-day.
The plows were all wood, and deer thongs took the place of iron in
binding the parts together. It was ten years after they began to raise
wheat before they had any other implement than the sickle, and for
threshing, the wooden flail. It was in the year 1839 the first printing
press reached Oregon. It may be marked as among the pioneer
civilizers of this now great and prosperous Christian land.
That press has a notable history and is to-day preserved at the State
Capital of Oregon as a relic of by-gone days in printing. Long before
the civilization of Oregon had begun in 1819, the Congregational
Missionaries to the Sandwich Islands had imported this press around
the Horn from New England, and from that time up to 1839 it had
served an excellent purpose in furnishing Christian literature to the
Kanakas. But the Sandwich Islanders had grown beyond it; and
being presented with a finer outfit, the First Native Church at
Honolulu made a present of the press, ink and paper to the Missions
of Waiilatpui, Lapwai and Walker's Plains.
The whole was valued at $450 at that time. The press was located at
Lapwai, and used to print portions of Scripture and hymn books in
the Nez Perces language, which books were used in all the missions
of the American Board. Visitors to these tribes of Indians twenty-five
years after the missions had been broken up, and the Indians had
been dispersed, found copies of those books still in use and prized
as great treasures.
Another interesting event was the building of the first steamer, the
Lot Whitcomb, in the Columbia River waters. This steamer was built
of Oregon fir and spruce, and was launched December 26th, 1850,
at Milwaukee, then a rival of Portland. It was a staunch, well-
equipped vessel, one hundred and sixty feet in length; beam,
twenty-four feet; depth of hold, six feet ten inches; breadth over all,
forty-two feet seven inches; diameter of wheel, nineteen feet; length
of bucket, seven feet; dip one foot eight inches, and draft three feet
two inches. It was a staunch and elegantly-equipped little vessel; did
good service in the early days, making three round trips each week,
from Milwaukee to Astoria, touching at Portland and Vancouver, then
the only stopping places. The Whitcomb was finally sent to
California, made over, named Annie Abernethy, and was used upon
the Sacramento River as a pleasure and passenger boat.
These two beginnings, of the printer's art and the steamer, are all
the more interesting when compared with the richness and show in
the same fields to-day. The palatial ocean traveling steamers and the
power presses and papers, scarcely second to any in editorial and
news-gathering ability, best tell the wonderful advance from
comparatively nothing at that time.
The taxable property of Oregon in 1893 was $168,088,095; in
Washington it was $283,110,032; in Idaho, $34,276,000. The
manufactories of Oregon in 1893 turned out products to the value of
$245,100,267, and Washington, on fisheries alone, yielded a product
valued at $915,500. There has been a great falling off, both in
Oregon and Washington, in this source of wealth, and the eager
desire to make money will cause the annihilation of this great traffic,
unless there is better legal protection. Washington, in 1893, reported
227 saw mills and 300 shingle mills and 73 sash and door mills, and
a capital invested in the lumber trade of $25,000,000. A wonderful
change since Dr. Whitman sawed his boards by hand as late as
1840.
The acres of forest yet undisturbed in Washington are put down at
23,588,512. During President Harrison's term a wooded tract in the
Cascade Mountains, thirty-five by forty miles, including Mount
Rainier, was withdrawn from entry, and it is expected that Congress
will reserve it for a National Park. The statistics relating to wheat,
wool and fruits of all kinds fully justify the claim made by Dr.
Whitman to President Tyler and Secretary Webster—that "The United
States had better by far give all New England for the cod fisheries of
Newfoundland than to sacrifice Oregon."
Reading the statistics of wealth of the States comprising the original
territory of Oregon, their fisheries, their farm products, their lumber,
their mines, yet scarcely begun to be developed, one wonders at the
blindness and ignorance of our statesmen fifty or more years ago,
who came so near losing the whole great territory. If Secretary
Daniel Webster could have stepped into the buildings of Washington,
Oregon and Idaho that contained the wonderful exhibit at the
World's Fair, he would doubtless have lifted his thoughts with
profound gratitude that Dr. Whitman made his winter ride and saved
him from making the blunder of all the century.
If old Senator McDuffie who averred that "The wealth of the Indies
could not pay for connecting by steam the Columbia River with the
States," could now take his place in a palace car of some one of the
four great transcontinental lines, and be whirled over "the
inaccessible mountains, and the intervening desert wastes," he, too,
might be willing to give more than "A pinch of snuff" for our Pacific
possessions.
The original boundaries of Oregon contained over 300,000 square
miles, which included all the country above latitude 42 degrees and
west of the Rocky Mountains. Its climate is mild and delightful, and
in great variety, owing to the natural divisions of great ranges of
mountains, and the warm ocean currents which impinge upon its
shores, with a rapid current from the hot seas of Asia. This causes
about seventy per cent of the winds to blow from the southwest,
bringing the warmth of the tropics to a land many hundreds of miles
north of New York and Boston. It is felt even at Sitka, nearly 2,000
miles further north than Boston, where ice cannot be gathered for
summer use, and whose harbor has never yet been obstructed by
ice.
DR. DANIEL K. PEARSONS.
The typical features of the climate of Western Oregon are the rains
of Winter and a protracted rainless season in Summer. In other
words, there are two distinct seasons in Oregon—wet and dry.
Snows in Winter and rains in Summer are exceptional. In Eastern
Oregon the climate more nearly approaches conditions in Eastern
States. There are not the same extremes, but there are the same
features of Winter snow, and, in places, of Summer heat. Southern
Oregon is more like Eastern than Western Oregon.
In Eastern Oregon the temperature is lower in Winter and higher in
Summer than in Western. The annual rainfall varies from seven to
twenty inches.
The Springs in Oregon are delightful; the Summers very pleasant.
They are practically rainless, and almost always without great
extremes of heat.
Fall rains usually begin in October. It is a noteworthy feature of
Oregon Summers, that nights are always cool and refreshing.
The common valley soil of the State is a rich loam, with a subsoil of
clay. Along the streams it is alluvial. The "beaverdam lands" of this
class are wonderfully fertile. This soil is made through the work of
the beavers who dammed up streams and created lakes. When the
water was drained away, the detritus covered the ground. The soil of
the uplands is less fertile than that of the bottoms and valleys, and is
a red, brown and black loam. It produces an excellent quality of
natural grass, and under careful cultivation, produces good crops of
grain, fruits and vegetables. East of the Cascade Mountains the soil
is a dark loam of great depth, composed of alluvial deposits and
decomposed lava, overlying a clay subsoil. The constituents of this
soil adapt the land peculiarly to the production of wheat.
All the mineral salts which are necessary to the perfect development
of this cereal are abundant, reproducing themselves constantly as
the gradual processes of decomposition in this soil of volcanic origin
proceeds. The clods are easily broken by the plow, and the ground
quickly crumbles on exposure to the atmosphere.
In Northwestern Oregon, adjacent to the Columbia River, although
the dry season continues for months, this light porous land retains
and absorbs enough moisture from the atmosphere, after the
particles have been partly disintegrated, to insure perfect
development and full harvests.
In Southeastern Oregon, especially in the vast areas of fertile lands
in Malheur and Snake River Valleys, the soils are much like those of
the Northeastern Oregon region, but there is less moisture. Except in
a very small portion of this region, irrigation is necessary to
successful agriculture. The water supply is abundant and easily
applied.
We have made no attempt to write a complete history of this great
section or its wealth, but only to outline such facts as will make
more impressive the value to the whole people of the distinguished
services of the pioneers who saved this garden spot of the world to
the people of the United States. "The Flag of Beauty and Glory"
waves over no fairer land, or over no more intelligent, prosperous
and happy people. All this too has been reached within the memory
of multitudes of living actors; in fact it can be said the glow of youth
is yet upon the brow of the young States.
The lover of romance in reality will scarcely repress a sigh of regret,
that with Oregon and Washington, the western limit of pioneering
has been reached, after the strides of six thousand years.
The circuit of the globe has been completed and the curtain dropped
upon the farther shores of Oregon and Washington, with a history as
profoundly interesting and dramatic as that written on any section of
the world. "The Stars and Stripes" now wave from ocean to ocean,
and from the Great Lakes to the Gulf. It is a nation of grand
possibilities, whose history would have been marred for all time to
come, had any foreign power, however good or great, held
possession of the Pacific States. With China open to the world's
commerce; with the young giant Japan inciting all the Far East to a
new life and energy, the Pacific States of the Republic stand in the
very gateway of the world's footsteps, and commerce and wealth.
Only when measured in and by the light of such facts, can we fully
estimate the value to the whole people of the Nation of the
midwinter ride of our hero, and to the brave pioneers of Oregon.
CHAPTER XV.
The Indians were plentiful and visited us frequently, but they were
all friendly that year with the whites throughout the border. A war
party of the Cheyenne Indians visited us on their way to fight their
enemy, the Pawnees. They were, physically, the finest body of men I
ever saw. We treated them hospitably and they would have given up
their fight and gone with us on a grand buffalo hunt, had we
consented. The chief would hardly take no for an answer.
One of the great comforts of the plains traveling in those days, was
order and system. Each man knew his duty each day and each night.
One day a man would drive; another he would cook; another he
would ride on horseback. When we reached the more dangerous
Indian country, our camp was arranged for defense in case of an
attack, but we always left our mules picketed out to grass all night,
and never left them without a guard.
About the most trying labor of that journey was picket duty over the
mules at night, especially when the grass was a long distance from
the camp, as it sometimes was. After a long day's travel it was a
lonesome, tiresome task to keep up all night, or even half of it. The
animals were tethered with a rope eighteen feet long buckled to the
fore leg, and the other end attached to an iron pin twelve to
eighteen inches long, securely driven into the ground. As the animals
fed they were moved so as to keep them upon the best pasture. In
spite of the best care they would occasionally cross and the mischief
would be to pay, unless promptly relieved.
Our greatest fear was from the danger of a stampede, either from
Indians or from wild animals. The Indian regards it as a great
accomplishment to steal a horse from a white man. One day a well-
dressed and very polite Indian came into camp where we were
laying by for a rest. He could talk broken English and mapped out
the country in the sand over the route we were to travel—told us all
about good water and plenty of grass. He informed us that for some
days we would go through the good Indian's country, but then we
came to the mountains; and then he began to paw the air with his
arms and snap an imaginary whip and shout, "Gee Buck—wo haw,
damn ye!" Then says our good Indian, "Look out for hoss thieves."
Then he got down in the grass and showed us how the Indian would
wiggle along in the grass until he found the picket pin and lead his
horse out so slowly that the guard would not notice the change, until
he was outside the line, when he would mount and ride away.
That very night two of the best horses of the Mt. Sterling Mining
Company were stolen in just that way, and to make the act more
grievous, they were picketed so near to the tents as to seem to the
guards to be perfectly safe. We may have misjudged our "good
Indian" who came into camp, but we have always believed that he
was there to see whether there were any horses worth stealing, and
then did the stealing himself.
We can bear testimony also, that he was a good geographer. His
map made in the sand and transferred to paper was perfect, and
when we came to the mountains, his "Gee Buck, wo haw, damn ye!"
was heard all up and down that mountain. The Indian had evidently
been there and knew what he was saying. They gave us but little
trouble except to watch our live stock, as the Indian never takes
equal chances. He wants always three chances to one, in his favor.
To show you are afraid, is to lose the contest with an Indian. I have
many times, by showing a brave front, saved my scalp.
Upon one occasion when I had several loose mules leading, I
allowed myself unthinkingly to lag for two miles behind the company
through a dangerous district. I was hurrying to amend the wrong by
a fast trot, when upon a turn in the road a vicious-looking Indian,
with his bow half bent and an arrow on the string, stepped from
behind a sage bush to the middle of the road and signaled me to
stop when twenty feet away.
I was unarmed and made up my mind at once to show no fear. Upon
coming within six or eight feet of him, I drove the spurs into my
horse and gave such a yell that the Indian had all he could do to
dodge my horse's feet. He was evidently astonished and thought,
from the boldness of the move, that I had others near by. My horse
and mules went on a dead run and I expected, as I leaned forward,
every moment to feel his arrow.
I glanced back when fifty yards away and he was anxiously looking
back to see who else was coming and I was out of his reach before
he had made up his mind. I was never worse frightened.
Upon another occasion I bluffed an Indian just as effectively. With
two companions I went to a Sioux village to buy a pair of moccasins.
They were at peace and we felt no danger. Most of the men were
absent from the village, leaving only a small guard. I got separated
from my companions, but found an Indian making moccasins, and I
stood in the door and pointed to a new pair about the size I wanted,
that hung on the ridge pole, and showed him a pair of handsome
suspenders that I would give him for them. He assented by a nod
and a grunt, came to the door, took the suspenders and hung them
up, deliberately sat down on the floor and took off a dirty old pair he
was wearing and threw them to me. I immediately threw them back,
and stepping into the tepee, caught hold of the moccasins I had
bought, but by a quick motion he snatched them from me.
I then caught hold of the suspenders and bounded out of the door.
When fifty feet away I looked back and he had just emerged from
his tepee and began loading his rifle. I had emptied both barrels of
my shotgun at a plover just before reaching the village and my gun
was fortunately unloaded. It gave us equal chances: I stopped still,
threw my gun from the strap and began loading. In those days I was
something of an expert and before the Indian withdrew his ramrod, I
was putting caps on both barrels and he bounded inside his
wigwam, and I lost no time in putting a tepee between us, and
finding my friends, when we hastily took leave.
Our company took great comfort and pride in our big American
mules, trained in civilized Ohio. A pair of the largest, the wheelers in
the six-mule team, were as good as setter dogs at night. They
neither liked Indians, wolves nor grizzlies; and their scent was so
keen they could smell their enemies two hundred yards away, unless
the wind was too strong.
When on guard, and in a lonesome, dangerous place, we generally
kept close to our long-eared friends, and when they stopped eating
and raised their heads and pointed those ponderous ears in any
direction, we would drop in the grass and hold ourselves ready for
any emergency. They would never resume their feeding until assured
that the danger had passed.
And then what faithful fellows to pull! At a word they would plant
their feet on a mountain side and never allow the wagon to give
back a single foot, no matter how precipitous; and again at the
word, they would pull with the precision of a machine.
The off-leader, "Manda," was the handsomest mule ever harnessed.
As everybody remarked, "She was as beautiful as a picture." She
would pull and stand and hold the wagon as obedient to command
as an animal could be, but she was by nature wild and vicious. She
was the worst kicker I ever saw. She allowed herself to be shod,
seeming to understand that this was a necessity. But no man ever
succeeded in riding her. She beat the trick mules in any circus in
jumping and kicking.
One night we had a stampede, and one of the flying picket pins
struck the mule between the bones of the hind leg, cutting a deep
gash, four inches or more long; the swelling of the limb causing the
wound to gape open fully two inches. She did not attempt to bear
her weight upon the limb, barely touching it to the ground. The flies
were very bad, and knowing the animal, and while prizing her so
highly, we were all convinced that we must leave her. The train
pulled out. It was my duty that morning to bring on the loose stock,
and see that nothing of value was overlooked in camp. I was ready
to leave, when I went up to the mule that had come with us all the
way from home, nearly three thousand miles, and had been a
faithful servant, and began petting her, expressing my pity and
sorrow that we had to leave her here for the Indians and the wolves.
As I rubbed her head and talked to her, the poor dumb brute
seemed to understand every word said.
Never before in all the long journey had the famous six-mule team
gone without Manda prancing as off leader. She rubbed me with her
nose and laid it upon my shoulder, and seemed to beg as eloquently
as a dumb beast can, "Don't leave me behind." With it all, there was
a kindly look in her eye, I never before had seen. I stood stroking
her head for some time, then I patted her neck and walked a little
back, but constantly on guard. It was then the animal turned her
head and looked at me, and at the same time held up the wounded
leg. My friend Moore, who had staid back to assist, was a little
distance off, and I called him.
As he came up, I said to him: "This mule has had a change of
heart." He put a bridle upon her so that he could hold up her head,
and rubbing her side, I finally ventured to take hold of the wounded
leg. I rubbed it and fondled it without her showing any symptom of
resentment.
I got out instruments, sewed the wound up, and sewed bandages
tight about the leg, made a capital dressing and we started, leading
Manda. She soon began to bear weight upon the wounded limb, and
had no difficulty in keeping up with the train. When the bandages
would get misplaced, one could get down in the road with no one to
assist, and adjust them. We took Manda all the way, and no
handsomer animal ever journeyed across the plains. She was never
known to kick afterward.
People call it "instinct in animals," but the more men know and study
dumb life, the more they are impressed with their reasoning
intelligence. Dr. Whitman's mule, finding camp in the blinding snow
storm on the mountains, when the shrewd guide was hopelessly
lost; my old horse leading me and my friend in safety through the
Mississippi River back water in the great forest of Arkansas, as well
as this, which I have told without an embellishment, all teach
impressively the duty of kindness that we owe to our dumb friends.
In Mrs. Whitman's diary we frequently find allusion to her faithful
pony, and her sympathy with him when the grass is scarce and the
work hard, is but an evidence of true nobility in the woman. In a
long journey like the one made from Ohio to the Pacific Coast, it is
wonderful what an affection grows up between man and his dumb
helpers. And there is no mistaking the fact that animals appreciate
and reciprocate such kindness. Even our dog was no exception.
As I have started in to introduce my dumb associates, it would be a
mistake, especially for my boy readers, to omit Rover. He was a
young dog when we started, but he was a dog of thorough
education and large experience before he reached the end of his
journey. He was no dog with a long pedigree of illustrious ancestors,
but was a mixed St. Bernard and Newfoundland, and grew up large,
stately and dignified. He was petted, but never spoiled. When he
was tired and wanted to ride, he knew how to tell the fact and was
never told that he was nothing but a dog.
He was no shirk as a walker, but the hot saleratus dust and sand
wore out his feet. We took the fresh skin of an antelope and made
boots for him, but when no one was looking at him he would gnaw
them off. When the company separated after reaching the coast,
Rover, by unanimous consent, went with his favorite master, J. S.
Niswander, now a gray-haired, honored citizen of Gilroy, Cal. A few
years ago I visited Niswander and Dr. J. Doan, who, with myself, are
the only living survivors of our company, and he gave me the history
of Rover after I left for Oregon.
Niswander was a famous grizzly bear hunter, and with Rover as a
companion, he made journeys prospecting for gold, and hunting,
long distances from civilization. When night came the pack mule was
picketed near by and a big fire built, with plenty of wood to keep it
replenished during the night. Rover laid himself against his master's
feet, and in case of danger he would always waken him with a low
growl close to his ear, and when this was done, he would lope off in
the dark and find out what it was, while Niswander held his gun and
revolver ready for use. If the dog came back and lay down he knew
at once it was a false alarm and dropped to sleep in perfect security.
At one time he brought among his provisions a small firkin of butter,
a great luxury at that time. He took the firkin and set it in the shade
of a great red-wood, tumbled off the rest of his goods, picketed his
mule, and went off prospecting for gold, telling Rover to take care of
the things until he returned. He was gone all day and returned late
in the evening, and looking around could not see his firkin of butter.
He told me he turned to the old dog and said: "Rover, I never knew
you to do such a trick before and I am ashamed of you." The old
fellow only hung his head upon being scolded. But soon after Mr. N.
noticed a suspicious pile of leaves about the roots of the tree, and
when he had turned them aside he found his firkin of butter
untouched.
The high wind which had arisen had blown the paper cover from the
butter and the dog knew it ought to be covered, and with his feet
and nose had gathered the leaves for more than a rod around and
covered it up.
The Indians finally poisoned the old dog for the purpose of robbing
his master. Said he: "When Rover died I shed more tears than I had
shed for years."
While reading, as I have, Mrs. Whitman's daily diary of her journey
in 1836, I am most astonished at the lack of all complaints and
murmurings. I know so well the perils and discomforts she met on
the way and see her every day, cheerful and smiling and happy, and
filled with thankfulness for blessings received, that she seems for the
very absence of any repining, to be a woman of the most exalted
character.
I have traveled for days and weeks through saleratus dust that made
lips, face and eyes tormentingly sore, while the throat and air tubes
seemed to be raw. She barely mentions them. I have camped many
a time, as she doubtless did, where the water was poisonous with
alkali, and unfit for man or beast. I have been stung by buffalo flies
until the sting of a Jersey mosquito would be a positive luxury. She
barely mentions the pests. She does once mildly say: "The
mosquitoes were so thick that we could hardly breathe," and that
"the fleas covered all our garments" and made life a burden until she
could get clear of them.
Then there were snakes. As far as I know she never once
complained of snakes. This makes it all the more necessary in giving
a true picture of pioneering upon the plains, to give a real
experience. There is nothing more hateful than a snake. We were
introduced to the prairie rattler very early in the journey and some
had sport over it. We all wore high, rattlesnake boots; they were
heavy and hard on the feet that had been accustomed to softer
covering.
One of our gallant boys had received a present of a pair of beautiful
embroidered slippers from a loved friend, and after supper he threw
off those high snake boots and put on his slippers. Just then he was
reminded that it was his duty that night to assist in picketing the
mules in fresh pasture. He got hold of two lariats and started off
singing "The Girl I Left Behind Me." About one hundred and fifty
yards off he heard that ominous rattle near by and he dropped those
lariats and came into camp at a speed that elicited cheers from the
entire crowd.
Early in the journey an old Indian told me how to keep the snakes
from our beds, and that was to get a lariat made from the hair of a
buffalo's neck and lay it entirely around the bed. I got the lariat and
seldom went to sleep without being inside of its coil. It is a fact that
a snake will not willingly crawl over such a rope. The sharp prickly
bristles are either uncomfortable to them, or they expect there is
danger.
One night of horrors never to be forgotten was when I did not have
my Indian lariat. Who of my readers ever had a rattlesnake attempt
to make a nest in his hair? The story may hardly be worth telling,
but I will relate it just as it occurred.
We had camped on the St. Mary's River and had gone four miles off
the road to find good grazing for our animals. Supper was over, our
bugler had sounded his last note, and we were preparing for bed
when a man came in from a camp a mile off and reported that they
had found a man on a small island, who was very sick and they
wanted a doctor.
Dr. Schlater, of the Mt. Sterling Mining Company, at once got ready
and went with him. Dr. Schlater was one of the grand specimens of
manhood. He worked with the sick man all night and at daylight
came down and asked me to go up with him. While we were bathing
him the company of Michigan packers, who had found the stranger,
moved off, and left us alone with the sick man, who was delirious
and could give no account of himself.
We found from papers in his pockets that his name was West
Williams of Bloomington, Iowa, and he carried a card from the
I. O. O. F. of that place. We made him as comfortable as possible
and went back to our camp and reported his condition. We found
the company all ready to move out, only waiting for us. The man
was too sick to travel and it would not do to let him remain there
alone, and it was decided that Dr. S. and I should remain with him
and try and find his friends or hire some person to take care of him,
and then, by forced marches, we could follow on and catch the
company.
We raised a purse of one hundred dollars and with such medicines
as we needed and other supplies, also kept back a light spring
wagon, and brought the sick man to our camp. I suggested to the
Doctor that he ride over to the road and put up some written
notices, giving the man's name, etc. He wrote out several and
posted them on the trees where they would attract attention from
passers. While he was doing this, a man with an ox-team came
along and proved to be an old friend of the sick man right from the
same locality. His name was Van S. Israel. He at once came with the
Doctor and took charge of Williams, greatly to our relief.
While the Doctor was upon the road he was called to prescribe for
another sick man by the name of Mahan, from Missouri. Learning
where we were located, the Mahans moved down to our camp. The
sick man was accompanied by his brother, and they had a splendid
outfit. We concluded to give the entire day to the sick men and ride
across the small desert just ahead during the night. A tent was
erected for Mahan, and he walked in and laid down.
An hour or so later I went to the tent door and looking in saw the
man lying dead. I spoke to his brother, who went into the tent
convulsed with grief. I had scarcely reached my tent before I heard a
piercing scream and rushed back, and upon opening the tent flap
was horrified to behold the largest rattlesnake I had ever seen,
coiled on the opposite side of the dead body and the living brother
crowding as far away as possible on the other side to be out of his
reach.
As soon as I appeared the snake uncoiled and slipped under the
edge of the tent. I caught up a green cottonwood stick and ran
around and he at once coiled for a fight. I let him strike the stick.
After striking each time he would try to retreat, but a gentle tap with
the stick would arouse his anger and he would coil and strike again.
At first a full drop of the yellow fluid appeared upon the stick. This
gradually diminished, and with it the courage of the reptile, which
seemed to lose all fighting propensity. I then killed him.
Just before sunset we were ready to leave our sad associates, and
we rode down to the river to give our mules a drink. The St. Mary's
is a deep stream running through a level stretch with no banks. The
mules had often been caved into the deep water and learned to get
down on their knees to drink. For fear of an accident I got off and
allowed my mule to kneel and drink. As he got upon his feet I swung
into the saddle and started on. I had scarcely got firmly seated
when, right under the mule, a rattler sang out. My double-barrel gun
was hanging from my shoulder, muzzle down. As quick as a flash I
slipped my arm through the strap, cocked the gun at the same time,
and the mule shying, brought his snakeship in range, and just as he
was in the act of striking, I shot him dead. The only good thing
about the rattler is that he always gives the alarm before striking.
A. J. ANDERSON, Ph.D., (left)
First President of Whitman College.
It was about three o'clock in the morning when we got through the
desert and reached a cluster of trees, and resolved to stop and take
a little sleep, and give our mules the feed of grass we had tied
behind our saddles. We found a fallen tree and tied our animals to
the boughs and fed them. A small company of packers were there
asleep with their heads toward the fallen tree. We passed them to
near the butt of the tree, threw aside some rotten chunks, spread a
blanket, and each rolled up in another, lay down to rest. My snake-
lariat was with the wagon, but I was too tired to think much of it.
The Doctor being up all the night before, was asleep in two minutes.
I was dozing off, with rattlesnakes and all the horrors of the past day
running through my mind, when I was suddenly awakened by
something pulling and working in my long, bushy hair. Barbers were
not plentiful on the plains, and, besides, the plainsmen wear long
hair as a protection. I suppose it was only a few minutes of
suspense, and yet it seemed an hour, before I became wide awake,
and reached at once the conclusion that I had poked my head near
the log where his snakeship was sleeping, and the evening being
cool, he was trying to secure warmer quarters. I knew it would not
do to move my head. I quietly slipped my right arm from the
blanket, and slowly moved my hand within six inches of my head. I
felt the raking of a harder material, which seemed like a fang
scraping the scalp. This made me almost frantic. Suddenly I grasped
the offender by the head, jerking hair and all, and, jumping to my
feet, yelled, so that every packer bounced to his feet, and seized his
gun, thinking we were attacked by Indians. This is a round-about
way to tell a snake story, but all the facts had to be recited to reveal
the real conditions.
It was forty-five years ago, and the sensations of the time are vivid
to this day; and it doesn't even matter that the offender was not a
rattler, but only an honest, little, cold-footed tree-toad, trying to get
warmed up. But he frightened me as badly as the biggest rattler on
the St. Mary's could, and I helped him to make a hop that beat the
record of Mark Twain's jumping-frog in his best days.
But life on the plains was not a continued succession of discomforts.
The dyspeptic could well afford to make such a journey to gain the
appetite and the good digestion. The absence of annoying insect life
during the night, and the pure, invigorating air, makes sleep
refreshing and health-giving. For a month at a time we have lain
down to sleep, looking up at the stars, without the fear of catching
cold, or feeling a drop of dew. There are long dreary reaches of
plains to pass that are wearisome to the eye and the body, but the
mountain scenery is nowhere more picturesquely beautiful.
At that time the sportsman could have a surfeit in all kinds of game,
by branching off from the lines of travel and taking the chances of
losing his scalp. Herds of antelope were seen every day feeding in
the valleys, while farther away there were buffalo by the hundred
thousand. The great butchery of these noble animals had then but
fairly begun. To-day, there still live but three small herds. Our
company did not call it sport to kill buffalo for amusement. It was
not sport, but butchery. A man could ride up by the side of his victim
and kill him with a pistol.
It was among our rules to allow no team animal to be used in the
chase. But I forgot myself once and violated the rule. We were
resting that day in camp. In the distance I saw two hunters after a
huge buffalo bull, coming toward our camp. I saw by the direction
that one could ride around the spur of a high hill about a mile
distant and intercept him. We had as a saddle horse of one team an
old clay-bank, which was one of the most solemn horses I have ever
seen. His beauty was in his great strength and his long mane and
tail. But he carried his head on a straight level with his back and
never was known to put on any airs. He stood picketed handy, and
seizing a bridle and my gun I mounted without a saddle and urged
the old horse into a lope.
As I turned the spur of the hill, the bull came meeting me fifty yards
away. He was a monster; his tongue protruded, and he was frothing
at the mouth from his long run. He showed no signs of turning from
his road because of my appearance. Just then, when not more than
thirty yards away, my old horse saw him and turned so quickly as to
nearly unseat me. He threw up his head until that great mane of his
enveloped me; and he broke for the camp at a gait no one ever
dreamed he possessed. I did no shooting, but I did the fastest riding
I ever indulged in before or since. It is a fact, that a mad buffalo,
plunging toward you is only pleasant when you can get out of his
way.
The slaughter and annihilation of the buffalo is the most atrocious
act ever classed under the head of sport. A few years ago, while
traveling over the Great Northern Railway, I saw at different stations
ricks of bones from a quarter to a third of a mile long, piled up as
high as the tops of the cars, awaiting shipment. I asked one of the
experienced and reliable railway officials of the traffic, and he
informed me that "Not less than 26,000 car loads of buffalo bones
had been shipped over the Great Northern Railroad to the bone
factories; and not one in a thousand of the remains had ever been
touched." The weight of a full-sized buffalo's bones is about sixty
pounds. The traffic is still enormous along these northern lines. If
the Indian had any sentiment it would likely be called out as he
wanders over the plains and gathers up the dry bones of these well-
nigh extinct wild herds, that fed and clothed his tribe through so
many generations.
I have seen beautiful horses, but never saw any half so handsome
as the wild horses upon the plains. The tame horse, however well
groomed, is despoiled of his grandeur. He compares with his wild
brother as the plebeian compares with royalty. I saw a beautiful race
between two Greasers who were chasing a herd of wild horses. They
were running parallel with the road I was traveling, and I spurred up
and ran by their side some four hundred yards distant, and had a
chance to study them for many miles.
I afterward saw a handsome stallion that had just been caught. He
was tied and in a corral, but if one approached he would jump at
him and strike and kick as savagely as possible. His back showed
saddle marks, which proved that he had not always been the wild
savage he had then become. The mountains and hills where the wild
horses were then most numerous were covered with wild oats,
which gave the country the appearance of large cultivation.
Among the interesting facts which the traveler on the great plains
learns, and often to his discomfort, is the deception as to distance.
He sees something of interest and resolves "it is but two miles
away," but the chances are that it will prove to be eight or ten miles.
The country is made up of great waves. Looking off you see the top
of a wave, and when you get there a valley that you did not see,
stretches away for miles.
We always tried to treat our Indian guests courteously, but they
were often voted a nuisance. While cooking our supper they would
often form a circle, twenty or thirty of them sitting on the ground,
and they looked so longingly at the bread and ham and coffee, that
it almost took one's appetite away. We could only afford to give the
squaws what was left. To fill up such a crowd would have soon
ended our stock of supplies.
One of the things that made an Indian grunt, and even laugh, was
to see our cook baking pancakes in a long-handled frying pan. To
turn the cake over he tossed it in the air and caught it as it came
down. A cook on the plains that could not do that was not up in his
business.
Except upon the mountains and rocky canyons, the roads were as
good as a turnpike; but some of the climbs and descents were
fearful, while an occasional canyon, miles long, looked wholly
impassable without breaking the legs of half the animals and
smashing the wagons.
The old plainsmen had a way of setting tires upon a loose wheel that
was novel. Our tires became very loose from the long dry reaches.
We took off the tire, tacked a slip of fresh hide entirely around the
rim, heated the tire, dropped it on the wheel and quickly chucked it
into the water and had wheels as good as new.
Our company was three nights and two days and nearly a half in
crossing the widest desert. It was a beautiful firm road until we
struck deep sand, which extended out for eleven miles from Carson
River into the desert. Before starting we emptied our rubber clothes
sacks, filled them with water, hauled hay, which we had cured, to
feed our mules, and made the trip as pleasantly as if upon green
sod. The lack of water on this wide desert had left many thousand
bones of dead animals bleaching upon its wastes. Many wells had
been dug in various places and we tested the water in them and
found it intensely salt. The entire space is evidently the bed of a salt
sea.
In the long reaches where no trees of any kind grow, the entire
dependence of the early pioneer for fire was upon buffalo chips, the
animal charcoal of the plains. It makes a good fire and is in no way
offensive. And if no iron horse had invaded the plains, buffalo chips
would be selling all along the route to-day at forty dollars per ton.
One of the pleasant historical events in which our company naturally
takes a pride is, that one night we camped upon a little mountain
stream near where the city of Denver now stands; the whole land as
wild as nature made it. Many years afterward one of the little band,
Frank Denver, was elected Lieutenant-Governor of Colorado, and
Gen. J. W. Denver was among the most prominent politicians of the
coast, and the city of Denver was named in honor of them. I have
thus, as concisely as I could, sketched life as it was in a wagon
journey across the plains forty-five and fifty years ago. It was a
memorable experience, and none who took it will fail to have of it a
vivid remembrance as long as life lasts. If its annoyances were
many, its novelties and pleasing remembrances were so numerous
as to make it the notable journey of even the most adventurous life.
APPENDIX.
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