AUTOMOTIVE MECHANICS

Level – I
Based on March, 2022, Curriculum Version 1

Module Title: - Carry out Tire Service and Wheel Balance

Module code: EIS AUM1 M09 0322
Nominal duration: 60 Hours

Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill

September, 2022
Addis Ababa, Ethiopi

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 1.1. Fundamentals of automotive tire
Pneumatic tires are the only means to transfer forces between the road and the vehicle. Tires are
required to produce the forces necessary to control the vehicle, and hence, they are an important
component of a vehicle. Figure 1.1 illustrates a cross section view of a tire on a rim to show the
dimension parameters that are used to standard tires.

1.2. Tire construction and classification

Carcass (casing): The carcass is the frame work of the tire, It must be rigid enough to hold in the
high pressure air, yet flexible enough to absorb load changes and impact. It consists of layer of tire
cords bonded together with rubber. Tires are generally classified, according to the direction of the
cords, into radial-ply and bias ply types.
Tread: The tread is an external rubber layer protecting the carcass from wears and external damage
caused by the road surface. It is the part that directly contacts the road and generates the tractive
resistance that transmits the vehicles driving and braking forces to the road. The tread pattern
consists of grooves molded into the tread surface, and is designed to help the tyre more effectively
transmit these forces to the road.
Side Walls: The side walls are rubber layer that cover the sides of the tire and protect the carcass
from external damage. The largest, most flexible tire constituents continuously flex under the loads
applied during travel. They bear the manufacturer's name, tire size, and other information.
Breaker: The breaker, a fabric layer between the carcass and the tread, reinforces the adhesion
between the two, while helping to attenuate the shocks passed from the road to carcass. Breakers are
commonly used in bias ply tires.
Belt (rigid breaker): These are a type of breaker used in radial ply tires. Running like a hoop along
the tire circumference between the carcass and the tread rubber, they hold the carcass securely in
place.
Beads: To keep the tire from being thrown off the rim by the various forces acting on it. The free
edges or sides of the layers are wound around strong steel wires called bead wires. The pressurized
air inside the tire forces the beads out against the rims of the wheel and holds them securely in place.
The beads are protected from damage caused by Chafing against the rim by hard strips of rubber
called chafer strips.

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 Fig 1.1 tire construction

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Three types of tire construction are in use. They are referred to as bias-ply, bias-belted, and radial-
ply construction .The description for each construction type is derived from the method used to
position the tire body cord plies in relation to the centerline of the tread.
Bias ply tires have fabric plies that run alternatively and form a crisscross design. The angle varies
from 30 to 38 degrees with the centerline of the tire.
Belted bias ply tires are similar to bias ply tires, except that two or more belts run the circumference
of the tire under the tread. This construction gives strength to the sidewall and greater stability to the
tread.
Radial ply tires have body cords that extend from bead to bead at an angle of about 90 degrees or
―radial‘‘ to the circumferential centerline of the tire—plus two or more layers of relatively
inflexible belts under the tread. The construction of various combinations of rayon, nylon, fiberglass,
and steel gives greater strength to the tread area and flexibility to the sidewall. The belts restrict tread
motion during contact with the road, thus improving tread life and traction. Radial ply tires also offer
greater fuel economy, increased skid resistance, and more positive braking.
Classification by Hold Air

Fig
1.2

figure 0.1tire construction type

Tube tire
The tube tires are the tires which have a separate inner tube
placed inside them. If tube tire is punctured then you are not
able to drive the vehicle.
Tubeless tire
The tubeless tires are the tires which don‘t have a tube
inside them. The tubeless tire doesn‘t mean it won‘t work

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 with a tube, it just means it doesn‘t have a tube. If the tubeless tire is punctured the tire never goes
flat and it will still run for days.
Comparison between tube and tubeless tyre
Table 0-1comparetion table

Tube tyre Tubeless tyre

A tube inside a tire would simply collapse in Tubeless tyre retains air pressure and helps avoid sudden
case of puncture and the air in the tyre goes air loss in the case of a puncture.
out
in no time.
Fuel Efficiency
Tube tyres are not so fuel efficient when Tubeless tyres are more fuel efficient.
compared to tubeless tyres.
Weight
Tube tyres weigh more because of the tube Tubeless tyres are light weight because of no tube inside
placed inside them. the tyre.
In case of puncture
The tube in the tube tyres will explode suddenly Tubeless tyres make driving safe and easy and there is no
in case of puncture causing loss of control of loss of control of the vehicle in case of puncture.
the vehicle which may result in accidents.
Repair Process
The puncture repairing process of The puncture repairing process of a tubeless tyre
tube tyre involves a complicated can be done without removing the tyre and is
process of removing the tyre from very simple compared to a tubed tyre.
the vehicle and removing tube
from the tyre, etc.
Cost of Tire
The tube tyres are of less cost and are The tubeless tyres are costly and are not available
for
available in every size for every
vehicle. all types of vehicles.
Punctures
The tube tyres are more prone to The tubeless tyres are durable and last longer
punctures because
because of the tubes placed in them. of no tube is placed in them.
Repair Cost

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The tube tyre puncture repair cost is less The tubeless tyre puncture repair cost is very high
when and
compared to that of the tubeless tyre. can be repaired instantly.
1.3. Tire Ratings and Designations
The construction of a tire depends on its application. Needless to say, there are many different tires.
These differences are based on not only size, but their construction to meet intended driving
conditions. There are also standards that tire manufacturers must meet to ensure that the tire will be
safe, not wear rapidly, and offer good road isolation for the passengers in the vehicle. The
uniqueness of each tire is represented by information given on the sidewall of every tire produced. In
fact, everything you need to know about a tire is imprinted on the tire.

fig 1.3

figure 0.2tire rating indicator

1.3.1. Tire size information

The best way to describe and explain the information given on the sidewall of a tire is to look at an
example. Look at the tire size designation of P215/65 R15 89H and see what it tells. On a P215/65
R15 89H tire,
The P represents the application of the tire; in this case P passenger car And If the tire had an ―LT‖
designation, the tire would be for a light truck.
The 215 in P215/65 R15 89H represents the width of the tire measured in millimeters from sidewall
to sidewall. This tire width is 215 millimeters.
The 65 in P215/65 R15 89H indicates the aspect ratio or profile (series) of the tire

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A tire‘s aspect ratio is the relationship of its cross-sectional height (from tread to bead) to its cross-
sectional width (from sidewall to sidewall). In our example, the tire‘s height is equal to 65% of its
width (the width equals 215 mm * 65% or 140 mm).
The aspect ratio determines a tire‘s performance characteristics. Higher aspect ratios provide a softer
ride because they will deflect more over irregular surfaces and under heavy loads. Shorter sidewall
heights demand stiffer sidewalls. Therefore, tires with a low aspect ratio have a harsher ride.
However, they provide a larger contact area with the road and therefore better traction.
For a tire rated as P215/65 R15 89H the R represents the basic ply construction of the tire. This letter
can be an ―R‖ for radial construction, a ―B‖ for belted-bias construction, or a ―D‖ for bias ply
(―bias‖ means the plies are set diagonally or at a slant).
The diameter of the wheel is indicated by the 15 after the R. The diameter of the wheel for this tire is
15 inches. Wheel diameter is the height of the wheel from one end to the other.
Following the size notation is the load and speed ratings. These are expressed by a number and a
letter; in this case the ratings are given as 89H. The 89 is the load index and the H is the speed rating.
The maximum load rating lists the maximum amount of weight the tire can carry at the
recommended tire pressure. The load ratings for passenger car and light truck tires range from 70 to
110. Following are some examples of load ratings and the weight they
represent: 71 =761 lb (345 kg)
79 =963 lb (437 kg)
89= 1,279 lb (580 kg)
99 = 1,709 lb (775 kg)
109 =2,271 lb (1,030 kg) so in our example, the tire can carry 1,279 lb (580 kg).
The speed rating indicates the maximum speed at which the tire should be used. In this case, the H
means the tire has been tested to be safe at speeds up to 130 mph (210 km/h). The speed rating of a
tire is really nothing more than an expression of how well the tire will withstand the temperatures of
high speed. This does not necessarily mean that a high-speed rated tire will perform better at low
speeds than a lower-rated tire.
In the below Table lists the various letters used to designate the speed rating of a tire and the
maximum speed at which the tire was designed to safely operate. Driving a vehicle at speeds greater
than the speed rating of the tires is risky. The heat generated can cause the tire to come apart. If this
happens at high speeds, it will be close to impossible for the driver to maintain control of the vehicle.
Other Information

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The sidewall of a tire also has a DOT safety code, tire identification or serial number, UTQG ratings,
and maximum inflation values. The DOT code indicates that the tire has met all of the applicable
safety standards established by the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT). Next to the DOT code
is a tire identification or serial number. This is a combination of numbers and letters that identify the
tire manufacturer, where it was made, the tire design and size, and the week and year the tire was
manufactured.
UTQG stands for Uniform Tire Quality Grading, a rating system developed by the DOT. This rating
is comprised of three factors: tread wear, traction, and temperature resistance. All tires, except snow
tires, have these ratings.
Tread Wear The tread wear grade is a rating based on a tire‘s wear rate when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government test track. Tread wear is listed as a number: The higher the
number, the longer the tread will last. A rating of 100 is considered normal, whereas ratings lower
than 100 mean poor tread wear. Ratings above 100 mean the tire has better-than-normal tread wear.
These ratings should be used to compare the anticipated wear of tires from the same manufacturer
and not to compare wear between manufacturers.
Traction Tire traction ratings are based on a tire‘s ability to stop on wet concrete and asphalt. It is
not an indication of how well a tire will handle. The traction rating is given as AA, A, B, or C. A tire
rated as C will provide less traction than one rated with an A.
Temperature Resistance This rating is an indication of how well a tire will dissipate heat and how it
works when it is heated. The temperature rating applies only to a properly inflated tire that is not
overloaded. Heat builds up when a tire is underinflated or overloaded. Temperature also increases
with excessive speeds. Temperature resistance rating is given as A, B, or C. A rating of C means the
tire is acceptable. A tire with an A temperature rating will be able to withstand high temperatures
better than one rated B or C.
1.3.2. Maximum Cold Inflation pressure and Load

A tire's maximum inflation pressure is the highest "cold" inflation pressure that the tire is designed to
contain. However the tire's maximum inflation pressure should only be used when called for on the
vehicle's tire placard or in the vehicle's owner‘s manual For the reasons indicated above, It is also
normal to experience "hot" tire pressures that are up to 5 to 6 psi above the tire's recommended
"cold" pressure during the day if the vehicle is parked in the sun or has been extensively driven.
Therefore, if the vehicle's recommended "cold" inflation pressures correspond with the tire's
maximum inflation pressure, it will often appear that too much tire pressure is present. However, this

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extra "hot" tire pressure is temporary and should NOT be bled off to return the tire pressure to within
the maximum inflation pressure value branded on the tire.
If the "cold" tire pressure was correctly set initially, the temporary "hot" tire pressure will have
returned to the tire's maximum inflation pressure when next measured in "cold" conditions.
1.3.3. Managing Tire inflation pressure

The inflation pressure- This depends upon tyre size, tyre type, speed, and load. The inflation
pressures are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Under inflation causes the following defects.
 Uneven tread wear, more wear at the tyre sides.

 Lack of directional stability.

 Increased rolling resistance leading to increased fuel consumption.
 Excessive flexing of walls causes excessive build up.
 The valve may be ripped out due to tyre punch.
Over inflation causes the following defects
 Reduced tread contact area with the road surface. This results in rapid wear in the tread at the
center.
 Reduced tyre grip.
 Reduced impact resistance.
 Increased vibrations resulting in uncomfortable ride.
 Increased stresses may cause tread separation and cracks in the sidewalls.
1.4.1. Tire/wheel balance machine safety
Basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
1. Read all instructions.
2. Do not operate equipment with a damaged power cord or if the equipment has been damaged -
until it has been examined by a qualified authorized service technician.
3. If an extension cord is used, a cord with a current rating equal to or more than that of the machine
should be used. Cords rated for less current than the equipment may overheat. Care should be taken
to arrange the cord so that it will not be tripped over or pulled.

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4. Always unplug equipment from electrical outlet when not in use. Never use the cord to pull the
plug from the outlet. Grasp plug and pull to disconnect.
5. To reduce the risk of fire, do not operate equipment in the vicinity of open containers of
flammable liquids (gasoline).
6. Keep hair, loose fitting clothing, fingers and all parts of the body away from moving parts.
7. Adequate ventilation should be provided when working on operating internal combustion engines.
8. To reduce the risk of electric shock, do not use on wet surfaces or expose to rain.
9. Do not hammer on or hit any part of the control panel with weight pliers.
10. Do not disable the hood safety interlock system or bypass the intended operation.
11. Do not allow unauthorized personnel to operate the equipment.
12. Use only as described in this manual. Use only manufacturer‘s recommended attachments.
13. Always securely tighten the wing nut before spinning the shaft.
14. a always wear safety glasses. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses, they are
NOT safety glasses.
15. Balancer is for indoor use onl
1.4.2. Tire-Wheel Dismounting and Mounting machine safety
With the wheel off the vehicle, make a chalk mark or index mark across the tire and rim. Then you
can reinstall the tire in the same position on the wheel.
To demount the tire, place the tire-and-wheel assembly on a tire changer. Remove the valve core and
release the air from the tire. Remove any rim ¬mounted wheel weights. Follow the tire-changer
operating instructions to remove the tire from the rim. A typical procedure is to position the bead
breakers (top and bottom) and loosen both tire beads from the rim flanges.
Lubricate the inside of the wheel and the bead areas with nibbler lubricant. With the bottom tire bead
in the wheel well place the tire iron under the top bead. Push the slot in the tire iron the rotating
finger of the tire changer. Start the tire changer. As the finger rotates, the tire iron removes the top
bead from the nm.
Again, lubricate the inside of the wheel along with the well and bead areas. Place the tire iron under
the bottom bead and then onto the rotating finger. Hold the side of the tire opposite the tire iron in
the wheel well. As the tire iron rotates. The bottom bead is raised up. This frees the tire from the rim.

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 figure 0.3safe tire removing

1.4. Identifying and Utilizing Proper Tools and equipment

Tools and Equipment’s
 Hand Jack
 Tire wrench
 Crick
 Lever
 Hammer
 Flat and Philips screw driver,
 Tire remover

1.5. Sourcing and utilizing workshop manuals and Tire

Placard
A car workshop manual can be of different types. Main ones are detailed below:
Factory Service Manuals: These car manuals are provided by the car manufacturing company
itself. These are technical types of workshop manuals that are very useful in identifying in and outs
of car maintenance information. These include service specifications, fluid capacity, torque value,
diagnostic charts, instructions for repairs, maintenance timing prescriptions, etc. These also include
other statistics relating to the exact model of your car.
Aftermarket Car Repair Manuals: These manuals are more inclined towards helping a layperson.
They are not that technical, as they focus more on DIY guides for regular cleaning and maintenance
jobs. The instructions given in them are easily understandable and doable by beginners and new car
owners.
Apart from these two manual types, more specific manuals are also available, such as electrical
manuals, unit repair manuals, wiring manuals, and manuals for particular components like
transmission and engine.

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Remember are required to have a Tire and Loading Information placard. Commonly found on the
driver's doorjamb, these placards are a consistent reference that confirms important vehicle capacity
and Original Equipment tire information
The placard must identify the number and location of seating positions along with the vehicle's total
load capacity for its occupants and cargo. This vehicle-specific placard must also provide the
Original Equipment tire sizes and the vehicle manufacturer's recommended cold tire pressures.
The rating for the combined weight of occupants and cargo is the maximum load the vehicle's tires,
wheels, suspension and chassis were engineered to carry. Exceeding the listed weight will likely
result in over working the vehicle and risking component wear or failure that can result in loss of
control or an accident.
2.1. Tire Care and tread pattern
The tread pattern is made up of tread lugs and tread voids. The lugs are the sections of rubber that
make contact with the road and voids are the spaces that are located between the lugs. Lugs are also
called slots or blocks, and voids are also called grooves. The tire tread pattern of block-groove con-
gurations a-ect the tire‘s traction and noise level Wide and straight grooves running
circumferentially have a lower noise level and high lateral friction. More lateral grooves running
from side to side increase traction and noise levels.
Tires need both circumferential and lateral grooves. The water on the road is compressed into the
grooves by the vehicle‘s weight and is evacuated from the tire print region, providing better traction
at the tire print contact. Without such grooves, the water would not be able to escape out to the side
of the wheel. This would causes a thin layer of water to remain between the road and the tire, which
causes a loss of friction with the road surface. Therefore, the grooves in the tread provide an escape
path for water.

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 On a dry road, the tire treads reduce grip because they reduce the contact area between the rubber
and the road. This is the reason for using treadles or slick tires at smooth and dry race tracks.
The mud-terrain tire pattern is characterized by large lugs and large voids. The large lugs provide
large bites in poor traction conditions and the large voids allow the tire to clean itself by releasing
and expelling the mud and dirt. The all-terrain tire pattern is characterized by smaller voids and lugs
when compared to the mud terrain tire. A denser pattern of lugs and smaller voids make all-terrain
tires quieter on the street. However,
2.2. Removing tire from the Vehicle
The overall aim of the learning module is to improve the quality of training and also servicing of
tire and wheel the use of tyres for improvement of traffic safety.

This is an overview of the factors of a tyre maintenance quality or servicing quality consider when
methods of tyre servicing for quality to meet the demanding needs of customer the 21st century.

Tyre servicing quality include:

Receiving and inspection of the tyer Removing and reinstalling the tyre and wheel to the vehicle
Repairing and servicing of the tyre and wheel Report and document final results

The subject matter to be covered will include the tyre itself,servicing of tyre and wheel balancing
how the needs and hence the servicing method different within the tyre size vary. The many
servicing work shop conflicting needs placed on tyre tequinic by users of tyres and the range from
which servicing skills can be selected are discussed. This review will also consider the tyre
performance characteristics themselves, how they are measured and understood in terms of the
technology of the tyre,. A few ideas for the future are explored.

PURPOSE OF TIRES

The friction (traction) between the tire and the road determines the handling characteristics of any
vehicle. Think about this statement for a second. The compounding, construction, and condition of
tires are some of the most important aspects of the steering, suspension, alignment, and braking
systems of any vehicle. A vehicle that handles poorly or that pulls, darts, jumps, or steers ―funny‖
may be suffering from defective or worn tires. Understanding the construction of a tire is important
for the technician to be able to identify tire failure or vehicle handling problems.

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FUNCTION OF TIRES

Tires are mounted on wheels that are bolted to the vehicle to provide the following:

Shock absorber action when driving over rough surfaces Friction (traction) between the wheels and
the road All tires are assembled by hand from many different component parts consisting of various
rubber compounds, steel, and various types of fabric material. Tires are also available in many
different designs and sizes. Train yourself to look for possible trouble areas and keep your tires in
the best possible condition. Remember, the tires are the car‘s only contact with the pavement, and
you don‘t want to jeopardize that contact. A tire maintenance kit costs only a few dollars. Such a kit
contains tire pressure and tread depth gauges. In today‘s age of self-service gasoline stations, it is
important to be able to check tire pressures and wear patterns yourself.

Wheels

Wheels must be strong enough to support the vehicle and withstand the forces
caused by normal operation. At the same time, they must be as light as possible, to
help keep un-sprung weight to a minimum.

figure 2.1wheel

Wheels can be made from cast aluminum alloy or magnesium alloy. Alloy wheels are popular
because of their appearance and because they are lighter than similar steel wheels. Aluminum is a
better conductor of heat, so alloy wheels can dissipate heat from brakes and tyres more effectively
than steel ones. Most wheels have ventilation holes in the flange, so air can circulate to the brakes.
Most passenger car wheels are of well, or drop-center design. This design allows for tyre removal
and fitting. The removal and fitting of tyres should be carried out according to manufactures
instructions.

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Types of Wheels

Passenger cars normally use rims which are of well based, or drop Centre design. The drop enter is
used for mounting and demounting the tyre onto the rim. Wheels must be strong enough to carry
the mass of the vehicle and withstand the forces that are generated during use. The wheel center
must accurately locate the wheel rim centrally on the axle. It must also provide the required
distance from the centerline of the wheel, to the face of the mounting flange.

This is called offset. Offset is important because it brings the tyre centerline into close alignment
with the larger inner hub bearing and reduces load on the stub axle. This allows the inside of the
wheel center to be shaped to provide space for the brake assembly, usually located inside the
wheel. Ventilation slots allow air to circulate around the brakes. The rim must be accurately
shaped and dimensioned and strong enough to support the tyre under the load of the vehicle and
the forces generated by the motion of the vehicle. When inflated, the tyre is locked to the rim by
tapering the bead seat towards the flange, or by safety ridges or humps, close to the flange. In the
event of sudden deflation, or blow-out, safety ridges prevent the tyre moving down into the well.
This helps maintain control of the vehicle while the brakes are applied. Well-based rims can also
be used on heavy commercial vehicles for tubeless tyres.

2.3. Tire-Wheel Assembly Dismounting and Mounting

If a rim is dirty or corroded or if the tire is not centered on the rim, the tire bead may bind" on the
rim and refuse to seat. Allowing air pressure to build within the assembly in an attempt to seat the
bead is a dangerous practice. Inflation beyond 40 psi (275 kPa) may break the bead (or even the
rim) with explosive force. This can cause serious injury to the person inflating the tire. Injuries
caused by such explosions include severed fingers, broken arms, broken jaws, and severe facial
lacerations. Be certain that the rim flanges and bead ledge (especially hump and radius) areas are
smooth and clean. Remove any oxidized rubber, dried soap solution, rust, heavy paint, etc., with a
wire brush.

Lubricate the tire beads, rim flanges, and bead ledge areas with a liberal amount of thin vegetable
oil soap solution or with an approved rubber lubricant. Start the mounting procedure with the
narrow bead ledge of the rim up at all times.

Be sure that the assembly is securely locked down on the mounting machine.

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Use a tire mounting band. The use of a tire mounting band (or bead expander) is helpful when
inflating tubeless tires. This device constricts the tread centerline of the tire, thereby helping to
force the beads onto the bead seats of the rim. Follow these steps.When the tire is on the wheel,
and before inflating, attach the bead expander around the center of the tread. Inflate the tire
sufficiently [10 psi (69 kPa) or less] to move the tire beads out to contact bead seats of rim. Then,
as a safety precaution, remove the expander. Never exceed 10 psi (69 kPa) pressure with the
mounting band on the tire.

Increase air pressure, as needed, up to 40 psi (275 kPa) to seat the tire beads fully on the rim.
Check for leakage and, if none, adjust air pressure to recommended pressure. Do not allow air
pressure to exceed 40 psi (275 kPa) during the bead-seating process. If beads have not seated by
the time pressure reaches 40 psi (275 kPa), deflate the assembly, reposition the tire on the rim, and
re lubricate and re inflate it to recommended operating pressure. Make certain that the valve core is
inserted in the valve stem. Worn valves should be replaced, using the valve designated by the
manufacturer, since valves vary as to length and diameter . Valve caps should be screwed on
finger-tight.

Use an extension gauge with clip-on chuck so that air pressure buildup can be closely watched and
so that you can stand well back from the assembly during the seating process. Always follow
manufacturer's recommended procedures for lug nut tightening sequence. Important wheel and tire
service information that must be followed to service wheel-and-tire assemblies properly

figure 2.2wheel hole indicator

2.3.1. Machine description

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 Machine, device, having a unique purpose, that augments or replaces human or animal effort for the
accomplishment of physical tasks. This broad category encompasses such simple devices as the
inclined plane, lever, wedge, wheel and axle, pulley, and screw (the so-called simple machines) as
well as such complex mechanical systems as the modern automobile.
2.3.2. Dismounting techniques
Implementing methods for the removal
Preparing Your Car for a Tire Change
 When a tire goes flat on the road, a driver has very little time to find a safe place to pull over
and prepare for a change. The ideal surface would be flat, level and solid -- like a parking lot.
 The next consideration is parking as far away from traffic as possible. You definitely don't
need the added danger of attempting to fix a flat tire while you're close to moving traffic. You
risk being hit by an inattentive or reckless driver.
 The next step, once you've found a good spot, is to turn on the car's emergency flashers or
hazard lights. Checking these lights to ensure they work properly should be a routine part of
your regular car maintenance.
 With the flashers on, make sure the car can't roll once it's lifted. Apply the parking brake and
shift the transmission into the "Park" position or in reverse gear if the car has a standard
transmission. Now get out of the car and chock (block) the wheels. The wheel blocks can range
from large roadside stones to specially designed wheel wedges. Anything that stops the car
from rolling away will work. Place the blocks in front of the front tires if you're changing a
rear tire and behind the rear tires if you're changing a front tire.
 Hopefully your regular automotive maintenance schedule has given you the opportunity to
check the condition of the spare and tools. If not, now's the time to find out just how lucky (or
unlucky) you are. Remove the jack and lug wrench from the car, as well as the spare tire.
 Again, regular auto maintenance would ensure these items are in good working order and
condition. If not, well, it's time to call a tow truck. But if your spare tire and tools are ready to
go, keep reading to find out what to do next.

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 Fig 2.3. lift a vehicle

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 2.3.3. Cleaning disassembled parts
Removal of multi piece rims from spoke wheels on chassis

Always be aware of the position, condition, and fit of side rings on multipiece (10.00 X 20 tube-type)
rims. Visually inspect tires and rims; Cracks, severe corrosion or obvious poor fit should be rejected.
Corrosion (rims, wheels, studs, nuts, clamps) that clearly will affect structural integrity should be
repaired / replaced.

Chock wheels; Jack vehicle; use axle stands if available.

Check the air pressure of both tires of a dual assembly with a pressure gage. Mark tire pressures on
tire sidewalls.

Both tires of a dual wheel assembly must be completely deflated BEFORE loosening nuts for
removal from the axle.

When deflating any tire, stand to the side; use a valve stem ‗wrench‘ to remove valve core and
deflate tire. Run a piece of wire into the valve stem to be sure there are no obstructions to deflation
and that deflation is complete.

after both tires are completely deflated, begin to break lug nuts loose with a few turns of a socket
wrench in a ―star‖ or ―crisscross‖ pattern. Do not remove lug nuts at this time; only loosen with a
few turns.

Rim clamps work by ―wedging‖ the rim; be sure a clamps are free before completely removing lug
nuts. If a clamp is still wedged, gently tap it with a rubber mallet while lug nuts are still loosely
attached; warning: do not use hard surface hammers.

Remove all lug nuts.

Carefully remove the rim(s) taking care not to damage stud threads.

Wipe mounting surfaces of rim to remove dirt and corrosion; use wire brush if
needed; mounting surfaces should be smooth and clean.

2.3.4. Mounting techniques

Instructions for Mounting and Demounting Tires

Professionals should adhere to the following steps to demount and mount tires.

 Fully deflate the tire first. Remove the valve core and then take the entire tire and wheel
assembly off the vehicle.
 Separate the top bead with a bead-breaking tool.
 Place the tire on a tire changer and lubricate the top bead. Then break the top bead and
remove the top bead over the rim.

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  Before mounting the tire on the rim, clean and inspect the rim. If there is any damage, such
as breaks, bends or cracks, do not repair them. Heating a rim can compromise its
functionality and cause mechanical failure.
 Remove the valve stem and install new o-rings, caps, cores and valves for each newly
mounted tire. It is essential to ensure that there is no damage to the tire during this or any
step.
 Make sure the inside is clean and dry. There should be no foreign materials or dirt inside the
tire. Use a lubricant to prepare the tire for mounting.
 Place the tire on the wheel and put the tire bead over the rim.
 Install a new valve core.
 Inflate the tire per the vehicle specifications. The specifications are located in the driver‘s
manual or the inside of the driver‘s side door jamb. Use an extension hose for air insertion.
Never stand over a tire when inflating but stand back and away as far as you safely can.

2.4. Checking/testing tire-wheel assembly

2.4.1. Tire and tube

Check Tread Depth

Evaluate the tread depth of your tires to make sure you have enough traction to grip the road. The
penny test is a simple way to do this. Just place a penny upside down in your tread. If you can see
the top of Lincoln‘s head, it may be time for new tires.
Check Tire Pressure
Use a tire pressure gauge to make sure your tires are properly inflated and then fill your tires with air
as needed. To check your pressure, remove the valve stem cap, press the gauge head evenly onto the
valve stem, use firm pressure so that the hissing sound stops. Remove the gauge and read the
pressure. Compare this to your vehicle‘s recommended inflation pressure. Always check your tires
while they are cold (after sitting for at least 3 hours or before you‘ve driven 1 mile at moderate
speed). Never bleed pressure from a hot tire.
Check Tire Condition and Age In addition to tread depth and inflation pressure, you should also
inspect your tires for any damage or conditions that would warrant their replacement. Look at the
tread and sidewalls for any cuts, scrapes, punctures, bulges, bumps or cracks. If you see anything
suspicious, have a tire service professional take a closer look.
You also want to keep an eye on your tire‘s age. Depending on how much you drive each year, your
tire‘s tread may last for years but just because the tread is not worn out does not mean that your tires

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don‘t need to be replaced. Bridgestone, following industry standards, recommends that tires be
removed from service no more than ten (10) years after the date of manufacture.
To determine your tires age just look at the DOT stamping on the sidewall. At the end of the DOT
stamping there will be a 4-digit number. This is the date code. The first two numbers are the week
and the last two are the year. For example, 4617 would tell you that the tire was manufactured the
46th week of 2017
Emergency Tire Change Procedure
Step 1: Find a Safe Place to Park
Find a safe place to park. You will want to be on flat ground and ideally on a paved surface. Some
roads have paved shoulders, sometimes called ‗Breakdown Lanes‘. If possible, it‘s best to avoid dirt
or gravel. Soft ground may allow for an unsafe condition as the jack may sink under the focused
weight of the vehicle. Ensure you are as far from active traffic as possible for safety.
Step 2: Hazard Lights Switch your Hazard Lights ON to warn others that your vehicle is disabled
Step 3: Put the Car in Park or NeutralOnce you are stopped, put the car in Park (P) or Neutral (N) if
your vehicle has a manual transmission.
Step 4: Emergency Brake Apply the emergency brake. Two of the most common types of
emergency brake applicators are the Emergency Foot Brake and the Emergency Hand Brake.
Step 5: Turn Off the Engine Turn the engine off. Most vehicles use a Keyed Ignition similar to the
photo. Newer vehicles may have a Push Button Ignition.

Step 6: Analyze Tire Once your vehicle is safe for exit, proceed to exit the vehicle and analyze your
suspected flat tire. If there are any defects noted, proceed to change the tire as indicated by the steps
that follow.

Step 7: Place Cone or Flare From Emergency Kit If you do not own one already, it is highly
recommended to have an Emergency Breakdown Kit. If you have one, it would be at this point that
you‘d want to place the emergency road flare, hazard triangle, or hazard cone out in the outer
perimeter of your vehicle to indicate to other drivers that you are broken down and need space.

Step 8: Locate Your Spare Tire Locate your Spare Tire. Some vehicles have a spare
located under the floor board in the trunk space while others, typically trucks and
SUV‘s, will have the spare tire under the rear of the vehicle (see photo). Consult your
owner‘s manual for instructions to release the spare tire if necessary.

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Step: Locate Tire Change Tools Locate the Tire Change Tools that came with your vehicle.
Depending on your vehicle make, they may be located in a number of places such as in the trunk
along with the spare tire, behind the seat (often the case in a truck), or under the rear seat in many
SUV‘s and extended cab trucks.
Step 10: Place Wheel Chocks If you carry Wheel Chocks in your vehicle, they should be placed
under the front and rear of a tire on an axle of the vehicle which does NOT have a flat tire. This will
be an added safety measure to prevent the vehicle from rolling during maintenance. It is highly
recommended to use vehicle chocks when changing a tire on ground that is not level.
Step 11: Pry Off Cover If your wheels have a Plastic Cover over the steel rims, you will need to use
a flat-tipped rod (such as a flat-tip screwdriver or maybe the back end of the lug nut wrench in some
vehicles) to pry off the edge of the cover.
Step 12: Loosen the Lug Nuts Loosen the lug nuts. Only loosen each nut approximately ½ to 1 full
turn counter-clockwise. This will make it easier to remove the tire in a later step.
caution: do not remove the lug nuts before the vehicle is jacked up in the air and the wheel and tire
assembly are off the ground.
Step 13: Locate Jack Points Locate the jack points which will be indicated in the vehicle‘s owner‘s
manual. The Hoist Adapter Contact Points in the diagram below are for small floor jacks and scissor
jacks. The floor jack points are primarily for larger jacks and will primarily be used on solid axle
vehicles that incorporate a differential gear box.
Step 14: Jack Up the Vehicle Jack the vehicle at the jack point closest to the tire which requires
replacement. Raise the vehicle until the tire is approximately 2-4 inches off the ground (note that the
vehicle may need to be jacked higher than this in order for the new, inflated tire to clear the ground
upon installation).
Step 15: Remove Lug Nuts and Tire Remove the already loosened lug nuts completely and store in a
convenient location nearby where you are working. They will be used to install the spare tire. You
can now completely remove the tire and wheel assembly by pulling the tire toward you in a
horizontal movement.
Step 16: Inspect and Note Damage Do a General Visual Inspection of the area that the wheel was
attached to (Rotor/Drum, Brake Caliper, Brake Line, Wiring, etc.). The reason for this inspection is
the fact that some tire blowouts can be semi-explosive and may cause component damage in the
immediate areas around the tire. Any defects should be noted and a vehicle mechanic should be
consulted prior to continued vehicle operation.

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Step 17: Install Spare Tire Install the spare tire by clocking the wheel so the lugs are lined up with
the wheel mounting holes. While holding the tire in place with one hand or your foot, install the Lug
Nuts on the lugs by hand as tight as you can. Note that most lug nuts are tapered on one side. This
tapered end goes on the lug first.
Step 18: Tighten Lug Nuts Snug the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench. Note that the wheel may want
to turn from the force of the wrench turning the nut. Once this starts to happen, you‘ve tightened the
lug nut enough to lower the vehicle.
Step 19: Check Tire Pressure Check the spare tire‘s internal pressure. Most vehicles will not include
a tire pressure gauge in their tire change kit.
Conventional tire pressure gauges are about the size of a pencil. They typically have metal exteriors
with plastic rods that extend out when the device is pushed into the tire stem (Schrader Valve). if
you attach the gauge to your tire and the rod extends to a large 3 and a small 4, then your reading is
34 PSI. Don't get confused by thinking that the gauge is giving you a measurement of 3.4 PSI.
a. If the tire pressure is within an acceptable range, reinstall the protective cap.
b. If the tire pressure is low, pump the tire with a compressed air source (may be found in an
Emergency Breakdown Kit).
c. If the pressure is too high, reduce to an acceptable range by pushing on the pin in the center of the
Schrader valve.
Step 20: Lower the Vehicle Lower the vehicle back to the ground using the vehicle jack. Remove the
jack from under the vehicle and stow it in the completely retracted position for storage.
Step 21: Tighten Lug Nuts in Star Pattern
Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern as indicated in most vehicle owner‘s manuals. The diagram
shows the most common torque patterns. It is best practice to use a Torque Wrench to tighten the lug
nuts. Lug nut torque values can be found in the vehicle owner‘s manual (typically between 90-160
pound-feet).
Step 22: Tire Change Is Complete
2.4.2. Wheel and rim

Clean the anti-rust with industrial alcohol or gasoline before adapter mounting to protect instalment
precision. ‖0‖ on the adapter aims at ―0‖on the spindle, fasten with long bolts by six-angular
spanner. (must be tightly for retesting precision).
A rim has two main parts: ange and spider. The ange or hub is the ring or shell on which the tire is
mounted. The spider or centre section is the disc section that is attached to the hub. The rim width is
also called pan width and measured from inside to inside of the bead seats of the ange. Flange
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provides lateral support to the tire. A ange has two bead seats providing radial support to the tire.
The well is the middle part between the bead seats with sucient depth and width to enable the tire
beads to be mounted and demounted on the rim. The rim hole or valve aperture is the hole or slot in
the rim that accommodates the valve for tire inflation.
The wheels on today‘s vehicles are made of steel, aluminium, or aluminium alloy (a combination of
two or more metals). Steel wheels are the least expensive to produce, which is why they come as
original equipment on many passenger cars and light trucks. The centre section includes the bolt
circle, or mounting holes, and is used to attach the wheel to the vehicle. The flange is the outermost
lip of the rim, and is the area typically used for attaching wheel (balancing) weights.

4.2. Inspect rims for damage and wear.

When Should Rims Be Replaced? Any time that your rims are compromised, cannot hold air, or
cause braking and handling problems mean that they need to be replaced. A worn or broken rim
could cause a sudden blowout even if the leak seems slow or the crack appears minorDriving
on damaged tires is dangerous. A damaged tire can suddenly fail causing serious personal
injury or death. Have your tires regularly inspected by a qualified tire service professional.
What are the different types of tire wear?
To help interpret your tire tread here is a short guide on the five most common types wear pattern
1. Patch wear
2. Centre wear
3. Edge wear
4. Cupping wear

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5. Inner/outer wear
General Guidelines
Scrap rims for the following reasons:
 Bent in any area (flange, disc, inner rim, outer rim, etc.)
 Cracked in any area, no matter how small
 Out-of-round regardless of degree (inner or outer rim)
 Subjected to high heat or direct fire
 Leaking due to cause other than: -
O-ring - Valve (CTIS or Fill Valve) - Incorrect assembly
 •Stripped threaded holes - Fill valve - CTIS valve attachment

figure 4.1rim components

4.3. Performing static and dynamic wheel balance

Tire/Wheel Balance
Proper wheel alignment allows the tires to roll straight without excessive tread wear. The wheels can
go out of alignment from striking raised objects or potholes. Misalignment subjects the tires to
uneven and/or irregular wear. An out-of-balance condition can also cause increased wear on the ball
joints, as well as deterioration of shock absorbers and other suspenssion components. If an
inspection show uneven or irregular tire wear, wheel alignment and balance service is a must. Wheel
balancing distributes weights along the wheel rim, which counteract heavy spots in the wheels and
tires and allow them to roll smoothly without vibration. The wheel weights are adhered to the wheel
or are clipped over the edge of the wheel‘s rim. There are two types of wheel imbalance: static and
dynamic.
A. Static Balance

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Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Wheels that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called wheel tramp.
B. Dynamic Balance
Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the centerline. When the
balanced tire spins, there is no tendency for the assembly to move from side to side. Wheels that are
dynamically unbalanced can cause wheel shimmy and a wear pattern

figure 4.2 tire and wheel balancing method

Steps for Balancing a Tire/Wheel Assembly

Depending on the equipment you have, tire/wheel assemblies are balanced in a number of ways. The
steps are outlined as follows if you are using one of the more modern, automated machines, like the
Coats 1250. These instructions are not meant to cover every balancing situation.
Before a tire can be balanced, it must be concentrically seated. You can determine this by measuring
the distance between the molded rib on the lower sidewall of the tire and the edge of the wheel‘s rim
flange. The tire must be deflated and reseated if the distance between the two points is greater than
2/32-inch.
After ensuring that the beads have reseated properly, the tire should be inflated to the recommended
pressure.
 Turn your machine OFF then ON, which resets the balancer. The machine wakes up using
standard clip-on wheel weight locations.

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 Remove stones/rocks or other debris from tread and any weights already attached to the wheel.
During this process you also should remove any mud, dirt or snow on the inside of the wheel
and make sure that the mounting surface of the wheel is completely clean of debris.
 Mount a tire/wheel assembly on a balancer that will use standard clip-on wheel weights. Use the
most appropriate mounting method. Technicians should be careful to avoid back injury and
should seek assistance when lifting a heavy tire/wheel assembly onto a balancing shaft.
 There are three main mounting methods. They include:
 Back Cone – Most original equipment and steel wheels can be mounted properly using this
method. The wheel is centered on a cone from the inner side of the wheel.
 Front Cone – A wheel should be centered by the outer side of the hub only when the inner
surface will not provide an accurate surface to center on.
 Pin-Plate – An alternate method of securing and aligning an assembly on a balancing
machine is the pin-plate method. A pin-plate is added instead of a pressure cup.
 Enter A & D wheel dimensions using offset arm.
Before a wheel can be balanced, wheel dimensions must be entered into the computer on
your unit. These include:
A = Offset – The distance measured from the balancer (―0‖ on offset arm) to inner plane of
the wheel rim (inner weight location).
W = Width – The width of the wheel at the rim flanges, measured with calipers.
D = Diameter – The diameter of the wheel as indicated on the tire.
 For automatic measurement, pull the offset arm out to the wheel, hold it still at clip-on weight
position against the wheel flange and wait for a ―beep.‖ Return the arm to home position.
 Enter the wheel width dimension. Use plastic calipers to measure wheel width for manual entry.
Press the W key. Use the keypad to enter width value (between 2 and 20 inches.) Lower the
hood for automatic measurement.
Note the value entry of the W dimension.
 Lower the hood. The wheel will spin and unbalances are measured and displayed. The
corrective weight amount appears in the weight display window for inboard and outboard
weight locations.
 Raise the hood after the tire stops rotating. Make sure that the wheel has stopped before raising
the hood.

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 Inboard center bar blinks. If an inboard corrective weight is not required, the wheel will stop at
the outboard corrective weight location and you can go to Step 13.
 Attach inboard corrective weight. Attach specified weight amount at top-dead-center on the
inside flange of the wheel. NOTE: Wheel weight suppliers often will supply a rim flange
contour gauge to help technicians select the correct clip-on weight for the wheel.
 Press NEXT, causing the wheel to rotate.
 The outboard center bar will blink.
 Attach outboard corrective weights. Attach specified weight amount at the top-dead-center on
the outside flange of the wheel.
 Lower the hood to respin the tire/wheel and check balance. The weight readings should now be
0.00. Tire Rotation technique
The purpose of tire rotation is to minimize irregular or uneven wear caused by maintaining a tire in
one rotation direction and one position over an extended period. Rotate tires as recommended by the
vehicle manufacturer or every 5,000 miles (8,000 km). Individual tire pressures must be checked
after rotation and adjusted to the vehicle manufacturer‘s recommendation for the tire‘s new location
on the vehicle. Vehicle alignment should be checked if irregular wear is evident. For vehicles with a
―temporary use‖ spare tire, follow the vehicle manufacturer‘s recommended pattern for rotation.

5.1. Tire Recycling

The recycling of scrap tires may be defined under two different categories:
i) Using the scrap tires as whole or mechanically modified shapes (in crumps or shredded), and
ii) Chemical decomposition or separation of scrap tire contents into different materials.
Recycling as-is or after mechanical process has the advantages of directly using scrap tires without
major investment. For example, scrap tires can be directly used as boat bumpers at marinas to protect
ships from scratching or hitting at the side of wharf (Fig. 3). Similarly, old tires can be placed side
by side in half tire shifted pattern for slope stability or under roads for improved stability
(Mechanical Concrete). Ripped tire pieces in large chunks can be directly used as light weight infill
material at embankments. Drainage around building foundations, erosion control for rainwater
runoff barriers, wetland establishment, crash barriers at sides of race tracks are other uses of scrap
tires without much modification.

 Disconnect the machine from the electric supply.

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 Remove all objects that may fall during the relocation and create a hazard.
 Do not use metal ropes to lift the machine.
 Slide the machine on the forks of a forklift.
 Hold the machine as depicted.

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