24 INTRODUCTION

CUPPING
Many of us practice wine tasting, but wouldn’t evaluate coffee in the same way.
However, coffee tasting, known as “cupping,” introduces you to unexpected
and subtle flavors and helps you to identify and appreciate different coffees.
The coffee industry uses cupping to measure and international cupping competitions
and control the quality of coffee beans— where the best cuppers compete for awards.
a cupping bowl provides a snapshot of the Increasingly, producers and millers cup at
beans, whether it’s a “micro lot” of a few bags, the very beginning of a coffee’s journey, too.
or a “large lot” of several containers. Coffee Cupping is easy to do at home—you don’t
is usually scored on a scale from 0 to 100. have to be a tasting expert to know what you
It’s an industry-wide practice—from the enjoy or dislike about a cup of coffee. Building up
exporters or importers, to the roasters and the a vocabulary to describe flavors takes practice,
baristas. Professional cuppers work for coffee but cupping a range of coffees from around the
companies, sourcing, tasting, and choosing the world soon introduces you to some broad flavor
best coffees in the world. There are even national groupings that you can refine with time.

WHAT DO I NEED? HOW TO CUP

Equipment
You can prepare just one cup of each coffee and explore its flavors,
filter grinder
digital scale
or try several side by side. You could cup with pre-ground coffee, but
9fl oz (250ml) heatproof cups, coffee tastes a lot fresher if you grind it yourself (see pp36–39).
glasses, or bowls (If you do not
have cups of the same size, use
a digital scale or a measuring
cup to ensure all cups are filled
1 Pour 1⁄4oz (12g) of coffee beans into
the first cup or glass. Grind each dose
of beans to a medium grind, pouring the
with the same volume of water) coffee back into its cup (see Tip).

2
Ingredients Repeat with the other beans,
coffee beans
but “clean” the grinder by grinding
through a tablespoon of the next type TIP
of bean before you grind the beans Grind separately, even
if you are cupping multiples
you’ll actually be cupping. of the same bean for others
to try, so that if there is one

3 Once all the cups are full of ground

coffee, smell them, taking note
of how the aromas compare.
defective bean among the dose,
it will be isolated in one cup
and not spread across
all of the cups.
 CUPPING 25

4 Bring your water to a boil, then let it cool down to about

200–205ºF (93–96ºC). Pour the water over the coffee,
making sure it is fully saturated. Fill the cup all the way to
the top, or use a scale or measuring cup to ensure
you use the correct volume of water to beans.

5 Leave the coffee to steep for 4 minutes. In this time you

can evaluate the aroma of the “crust”—the floating layer
of coffee grounds—taking care not to lift or disturb the cups.
Water cools
faster than
you think, so
Perhaps you’ll find the aromas to be stronger, weaker, better, pour as soon
or worse from some coffees compared to others. as it is the right
temperature.

6 After 4 minutes, use a spoon to gently stir the surface

of the coffee three times, breaking the crust and settling
the floating grounds. Rinse your spoon in hot water between
every cup so you don’t transfer any flavors from one bowl
to another. Bring your nose to the cup as you break the crust
to catch the release of aromas, and consider if the positive The crust
(or negative) attributes you noticed about the aroma in should not
collapse before
step 5 have changed. you stir it—if
it does, your

7 Once all the crusts are broken, skim off the foam

and floating particles with the help of two spoons,
rinsing them with hot water between each skim.
water may be
too cold or your
roast too light.

8 When the coffee is cool enough to taste, dip your spoon

in and slurp the coffee from the spoon into your mouth
with a little air, which helps to spread the aromas to your
olfactory system and the liquid across your palate. Consider
the tactile sensations of the coffee as well as the flavor. How
does it feel on your palate: does it seem thin, oily, soft, rough,
elegant, drying, or creamy? How does it taste? Does it remind
you of anything you have tasted before? Can you pick out Once the
any flavors of nuts, berries, or spices? crust has been
broken, use

9 Go back and forth between coffees to compare. Revisit two spoons

to help you
them as they cool and change, and take notes to help you skim the top
to categorize, describe, and remember what you’re tasting. of the coffee.

CONSIDER TACTILE IMPRESSIONS AS

WELL AS THE FLAVOR—DOES IT FEEL
SUPPLE, SYRUPY, DELICATE, GRITTY?
HOW DO AFTERTASTES COMPARE?
26 FLAVOR APPRECIATION

FLAVOR

Red wine
Whisky
Rum
Corn
APPRECIATION

Ric
Str

e
Toa

aw
To

t s
b
Ce

ac
da

co
Coffee offers an incredible range of complex

Bu

r
M

tte
ilk
aromas and flavors. Identify these subtleties

r
Ho
ps

A LC O H O
of flavor to get the best from your coffee. Cu
cu

GRA
Fe mb
n ne er
It is easy to improve your tasting palate with

S M I RY
Ne l

INY
a little practice—the more you “cup” (see ttle

OK
s

DA

LIC
Pea
pp24–25), the easier it is to differentiate s

EY
between coffees. These four flavor wheels Gra
ss
act as prompts—keep them within easy G re e
n be
reference to help you to identify and ans
Bell p
compare the aromas, flavors, textures, eppe
r
VEGE
acidity levels, and aftertastes in coffee. Olives
TAL
Green tea

HOW TO USE Black tea

THE WHEELS
Tomato
Ginger
First, identify key flavors using the Nutmeg
large taster’s wheel, honing in on specific
profiles. Then, use the acidity, texture,
Corian
der
SPICY
e
and aftertaste wheels to help you to C l ov
per

ET
analyze physical sensations on the palate. Pep

WE
se
Ani
1 Pour your cup of coffee Breathe in
through your nose, refer to the taster’s
wheel, and consider. Do you pick up hints
Ca r d

i
am

n na
om
mo
n
e
GA
RS
C
l at
SU

of nuts, and, if so, are they reminiscent of a lt o co ate

M ch ol
hazelnut, peanut, or almond for example? ilk oc
h
p

M c
ru

2
rk
sy

Take a sip Look at the taster’s wheel Da

le
ap

again. Are there fruity notes, or nuances

a
M

ill

ar
n

of spice? Ask yourself what is missing,

ee
Va

sug
el
ff
ram

as well as what is present. Identify broad

To

es
wn

ia
lass
Ca

groups, such as fruit, then move into more

adam
B ro

ey

detail—decide if it’s more like stone fruit

Pistachio
Mo

e
Hon

Sesam
Peanut
Mac

or citrus. If citrus, is it lemon or grapefruit?

 FLAVOR APPRECIATION 27

AGGRES
Jasmine

Rose

W
MILD
CL

S
Lilac

LO
IVE
scus

OY
D

EL
CE
er

I NG
AN

M
SO

on
UR L
end

e
BA
Hibi

ckl

m
m
ASTRIN

Le

me
GENT CRISP
Lav

sso
u

er
Acidity
ey s

Li
l ow
blo

ge
G BRIGH
DRYIN T

an
Hon

it TA
erf
nge

Or
P
fru
R RT
HA
Eld

S
e
Ora

CO
ap

AT
l e

INTENS
-LIKE
Gr pp

FL

MP
A

LE
WINE
ar

X
E
Pe
AL

Fig
s
F LO R

3
ru

Take another sip A pleasant level of

Cit

m
Plu acidity adds freshness. Do you find

h a rd Gra
pe flavors bright, intense, mellow, or flat?

Or c Apri
cot
h
Peac
fruit

CATE
GRIT
Stone Cherry
HO

DELI
LL NT
GA

TY
OW E
EL
Lychee WATER
Y SUPPL
E

Texture
Mango TING
STRU
CTUR
COA ED

FRUITY

VI
Passionfruit

K
IC

SC
SYRU
RY
TH
Tropical fruit

OU
S
BUTTE
Pineapple

PY
Banana

Drie
d fru Coco
Melon
4 Focus on the texture Coffee may be light
or heavy. Does yours feel smooth and
it nut dense in the mouth, or light and refreshing?
Rais
in
Be Dat
rry e
HER

ROUGH
Bla Pr u
ck ne
NUTTY

HA

cur
T
BA L

SOF

RS

Bla ran
H

ck t
be Aftertaste
Bl rry
ue
St
LING

be
RAL

ra rry
w
ER

UT

be G
IN

NE

rr
Ra

y
sp
Go

CLEAN
Sa

be
os
ge
Tea

Mi

rr
eb
Ber

y
nt

er
t re
H a ze

ry
gam

Pin

5
e
Almond

Swallow Does the taste linger for long

Pecan
Walnut

e
lnut

ot

or disappear? Is it a neutral aftertaste,

Taster’s wheel This helps you
to identify and specify the or bitter and unpleasant? Decide if any of
flavors you taste in coffee. the terms in the wheel apply to your coffee.
COFFEE KNOW-HOW
30 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

INDICATORS
OF QUALITY
Coffee companies use specific language on packaging to describe their coffee—
this can occasionally be confusing and conflicting, if not outright misleading.
Understanding the terminology makes it easier to choose the coffee you want.

IDENTIFYING BEANS
Some coffee packaging only describes coffee a safer bet—but there is a lot of poor Arabica
as either Arabica or Robusta (the two main out there, too. So what should discerning
coffee species, see pp12–13). This is the consumers expect to see on the labels?
equivalent of telling you only if a wine is white The best-quality coffee beans are usually
or red; you just don’t have enough information described with a high level of detail, such
to make an informed purchase. Although Robusta as by region, variety, processing method, and
is generally inferior to Arabica, labels that tout flavor (see p33). Consumers grow in their
only “pure Arabica” are also a misleading understanding of good-quality coffee, and, as a
indicator of quality. Great Robustas do exist, but result, roasters realize that the key to ensuring
they are hard to find, so buying Arabica is often customer satisfaction is honesty and traceability.

BLENDS VS. SINGLES

Both commercial and specialty companies often on the packaging—explaining the individual
describe their coffee as either a “blend” or a attributes of each bean and how the flavors
“single origin.” This description helps to explain complement and balance each other (see
the coffee’s provenance—a blend is a mix of Sample Blend, opposite).
different coffee beans that creates a particular
flavor profile, while a single-origin coffee is SINGLE ORIGINS
sourced from a single country or a single farm. The term “single origin” is typically used to
describe a coffee from a single country. However,
BLENDS identifying a coffee solely by country of origin
There are reasons why blends are popular, as is too broad—as it could still mean a blend of
they can create stable flavor profiles that remain regions and farms within that country, and a
consistent year-round. In the commercial sector, mix of varieties and processes. It could also be
the ingredients and proportions in blends are of any level of quality—100 percent Brazilian,
closely guarded secrets, and the labels offer no or any other country, does not mean that the
indication of what the beans are or where they coffee will be 100 percent great. Equally, it gives
come from. Specialty roasters, however, clearly you little indication of flavor as coffees from
label and celebrate each component of a blend one region can taste very different to another.
 INDICATORS OF QUALITY 31

A “BLEND” IS A MIX OF COFFEE BEANS

FROM AROUND THE WORLD. A “SINGLE
ORIGIN” REFERS TO A COFFEE FROM
ONE COUNTRY, COOPERATIVE, OR FARM
When the specialty coffee sector use the term RESPECTFUL PRACTICE
“single origin” on their packaging, they usually When coffee beans—regardless of whether
mean something more specific—coffees from they are single origin or blends—are grown and
a single farm, a single cooperative, a group of processed well, shipped carefully, and roasted
producers, or a producer and his family. These with respect for the intrinsic flavors of the bean,
single-source coffees are often sold as limited it is a fantastic celebration of the nuances coffee
or seasonal offerings, and may not be available can offer. Specialty coffee companies pride
year-round but they will be sold for as long as themselves on this practice, and, as a result,
the supply lasts and the coffee tastes its best. offer coffees of the highest quality.

SAMPLE BLEND
Roasters use blends to create varied
20% KENYA AA
flavors. Labels explain where each
bean originates from and the quality
WASHED SL 28
it brings to the blend—as shown in BRIGHT ACIDITY
this illustration of an excellent blend. BLACK CURRANT
CHERRY

THE BLEND
A COMPLEX BLEND
OF FRUIT, NUTS, AND
CHOCOLATE WITH A
SWEET AFTERTASTE AND 50% EL
30% NICARAGUA SYRUPY TEXTURE SALVADOR PULPED
WASHED CATURRA NATURAL BOURBON
SWEET BALANCED
CARAMEL PLUM
ROASTED HAZELNUT APPLE
MILK CHOCOLATE TOFFEE
32 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

CHOOSING AND STORING

Finding good-quality coffee to brew at home has never been easier—even
without a specialty coffee shop close to home. Many coffee roasters sell online
and offer brewing equipment and tips on how to make the most of their beans.

CHOOSING
WHERE TO BUY
Supermarkets rarely treat coffee as
the fresh product that it is, so you
will have more luck buying good, fresh
beans from a local or an online shop
that specializes in coffee. However,
navigating through all the options and
exotic descriptions can be a diicult task.
Do a bit of research before deciding who
to trust as your coffee supplier. Look for
a few key points such as how the beans
are described and packaged, rely
on your taste buds, and be open to
compare and experiment until you
find the coffee provider that gives
you the quality you want. CONTAINERS
If you buy loose beans from
a store, ensure you know
when the beans were roasted.
Coffee is best protected in
containers with lids—unless
stored airtight it loses its
vibrancy after a few days.

SCALES
Buying less means buying
fresh. If you can, buy only
the amount of beans you
need to brew for a few days
or a week at a time. You
can often buy as little as
31⁄2oz (100g).
 CHOOSING AND STORING 33

WHAT’S ON THE BAG?

A lot of coffee is sold in attractive packaging
that actully offers very little useful information
about the product you buy. The more relevant One-way valve Fresh coffee expels CO2
information you find, the better the odds as a by-product of the roasting process.
of buying a good-quality product. If left unprotected, CO2 escapes, oxygen
enters, and complex aromatics are lost.
A bag with a valve allows you to seal the
coffee so the CO2 escapes but oxygen
cannot stale it.
Date The bag should
have a “roasted and packed”
date on it, and not just
a “best-before” date. Most
commercial coffee companies
will not tell you when
the coffee was roasted
or packed, but instead
operate with best-before
dates that are anything
from 12 to 24 months into
the future. This is not in the FINCA LA SAETA
DE CORAZON
best interest of the coffee, 07-03-14
nor you, the consumer. PITALITO, HUILA,
COLOMBIA
Margarita Maria
Salazar Huertas Traceability Ideally, you
Provenance The label should should be able to find the
tell you what species and/or
variety the coffee is, where 100% CATURRA name of a cooperative,
washing station, hacienda,
it was grown, and whether
it is a blend or single origin
SEMI-SHADE GROWN finca, or fazenda, as well
as the name of the farm
(see pp30–31). owner or manager. The
more traceable a coffee is,
the better are the chances
Roast level An indication that you are buying
of roast level is useful, something of quality that
but the language used to was traded at a sustainable
communicate roast is not price and has been handled
standardized. “Medium roast” LIGHT–MEDIUM This beautiful, fully-washed with care all the way from
could be any shade of brown ROAST coffee is from Señorita Salazar’s producer to retailer.
depending on who you ask. SUITABLE FOR two-hectare farm outside Pitalito,
“Filter roast” generally FILTER-STYLE BREWING with an altitude of 5,577ft (1,700m)
indicates something on the above sea level. It shines in the cup,
lighter end, while “espresso with bright lemongrass acidity, rose
roast” is a darker version. hip, green apple, and honey notes,
However, it is not uncommon and a delicate, creamy texture. Expected flavor There
to find filter beans that should be information on
are darker from one roaster how the coffee was processed
than an espresso roast from and what the flavor should be
another. A knowledgeable like. Even information on
retailer can advise you on altitude or presence of shade
which roast you might like. trees can be indicators as to
the quality of the beans inside.
COFFEE OBSESSION ROASTING COMPANY
34 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

THE PRICE GAP BETWEEN CHEAP

COFFEE AND ETHICALLY SOURCED
COFFEE IS FAR LESS PROFOUND
THAN MANY WOULD THINK
PACKAGING
The main enemies of coffee are oxygen, heat, valve on them. This is a small plastic disk that
light, moisture, and strong odors. Avoid buying lets the CO2 from the beans out of the bag, but
beans that are stored in open containers or prevents oxygen from entering. Kraft paper bags
hoppers unless the containers look clean, are offer minimal protection so treat these beans as
protected with lids or sneeze guards, and you loose-weight coffee. Avoid coffee from bags or
see a roast date. Unless carefully managed, bricks that are vacuum-sealed, as this coffee
these containers do nothing to preserve the would have completely de-gassed and gone stale
quality of their contents. Look for coffee in before packaging. Buy as fresh as you can, as
opaque, airtight bags that have a one-way even a week after roasting can be too old.
IS EXPENSIVE ALWAYS BEST?
The cheapest coffee is never high-quality exotic island coffee where you might be paying
coffee. It was probably not sourced at a price a premium for the marketing of the brand rather
that covered the cost of production. You should then a superior flavor. The difference in price
also be wary of coffees where a high price feeds between poor- and high-quality coffee is often
into a marketing gimmick, such as expensive, and very small, making a truly great cup of coffee
frequently fraudulent, animal-feces coffee, or one of the most affordable luxuries you can get.

TIP
An increasing number
of quality-focused cafés sell
single-serve coffee brewers,
such as AeroPresses, alongside
their coffees. Ask your barista
for recommendations and
guidance for using your
equipment like a pro.
 CHOOSING AND STORING 35

STORING
Buying whole beans and investing in a home to several weeks, if properly sealed. Attempt
grinder is one of the best ways to make sure to buy only what you need for a week or two
you get fresher coffee at home. Pre-ground coffee of drinking. Buy whole beans, invest in a manual
will become stale in a matter of hours, but whole or electric home burr grinder (see pp36–39),
beans will stay fresh for a few days, or even up and grind only what you need for each brew.

STORING DOS
Store the beans in an airtight container, in a dry,
dark place, away from strong odors. If the bag
containing the beans does not fulfill these
criteria, place the bag in an airtight container.
STORING DON’TS
Avoid storing your coffee beans in the fridge,
but if you must preserve your beans for longer,
freeze them and thaw only what you need to
brew each time. Do not re-freeze beans that
have already been thawed.

COMPARING STALE
AND FRESH COFFEES
Fresh, well roasted coffee should
be intensely and sweetly aromatic;
free of harsh, acidic, or metallic
notes. The presence of CO2
is a very good indicator of
freshness. In this visual
comparison, two cups
have been brewed using Fresh coffee As water reacts
the “cupping” method with the CO2 in fresh coffee,
(see pp24–25). foam and bubbles form a
“bloom” that gently settles
after a minute or two.

Stale coffee This coffee

contains very little or
no CO2 for the water to
react with, so it forms
a flat, dull lid. The grounds
can also be very dry and
diicult to saturate.
36 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

GRINDING
Many of us invest in expensive coffee-brewing equipment, but don’t realize that
one of the easiest ways to vastly improve the quality of the coffee we make and
to achieve the correct texture, is to grind fresh coffee beans with a good grinder.

THE RIGHT GRINDER

There is a difference between grinders for would like to step it up a notch, invest a little
espresso and grinders for filter-style brews, more money in a grinder with “burrs,” conical or
so make sure you buy one designed for your flat (see below), that will crush the beans into
preferred method, as shown opposite and on particles of a more uniform size and allow for
pages 38–39. However, there are some key more even extractions. Some grinders have
choices that affect both types of grinders. “stepped” adjustments that lock into set grind
Grinders with blades are most commonly sizes; others are “stepless” and allow you to
available, and usually run for as long as you adjust in tiny increments. Burr grinders do not
hold down the “on” button. Even if you are have to be expensive, especially if they are the
using a timer to measure how long to grind manual, hand-cranked variety. However, if you
for and how fine to go, you will find it hard to want to spend a bit more or plan to grind large
replicate accurately the size of ground coffee quantities of coffee each day, choose an electric
particles from one cup to another, especially one. They often have a timer function that you
if you vary the amount of coffee each time. can use as a way of dosing how much coffee you
Blade grinders also lead to a lot of grit at the grind. Keep in mind that the coarser a grinder is
bottom of your cup, particularly if you brew set, the less time it takes to grind through a 1oz
with a French press. An advantage is that (30g) dose of beans, and the finer it is set, the
they are generally quite affordable. If you longer it takes to grind the same amount.

CONICAL BURRS
These burrs are more resilient FLAT BURRS
than flat ones, but they need Grinders with flat burrs are usually
replacing after you have ground cheaper, but need replacing after
around 1,650–2,000lb (750– you have ground around 550–
1,000kg) coffee. 1,300lb (250–600kg) of coffee.
 GRINDING 37

FILTER-STYLE GRINDERS
These grinders are cheaper than espresso
grinders. They can be adjustable, but
will not normally grind fine enough for
espresso. They also rarely have a dosing, Hopper
Choose a grinder with
or measuring, mechanism. a hopper that suits
As explained opposite, avoid buying the volume of coffee
you wish to grind on
the ones that use whirling blades to chop a regular basis.
the coffee into pieces, as these are hard
to control and often create fine dust that
will over-extract, as well as several large
chunks of bean that will barely extract
at all. This can result in an imbalance in
flavor that even good beans and correct
brewing can’t fix.

Timer dial
Some grinders
have a timer
function and
switch off
automatically.
Grind adjustment
Choose a grinder
that you can easily
adjust without
needing to dismantle
many parts.

ELECTRIC
FILTER GRINDER
Convenient and quick to use,
make sure you clean electric filter
Drawer
grinders with special cleaning
Avoid storing
coffee in the tablets on a regular basis.
drawer, and grind
only as much as
you need per brew.

FILTER-STYLE HAND GRINDER

These require a little patience and muscle, but are
great if you require only a small amount or you’d
like fresh coffee without access to electricity.
38 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

ESPRESSO-STYLE GRINDERS
Engineered to grind very finely, espresso
grinders are adjustable in small increments,
and often portion out coffee for each
dose. They are heavier than filter-style
grinders, with solid motors and a higher
price point, but they are an essential Hopper
Most grinders have
investment if you want to produce hoppers that hold
really good espresso at home. 21⁄4lb (1kg) beans at a
time, but to keep your
coffee fresh, fill with
only as much as you
can brew in two days.

Stepless adjustment
This helps to produce
Burr
grounds at the exact
Good espresso
particle size you prefer.
grinders should
have flat or conical
burrs (see p36).

Doser
Some grinders have digital
timer functions so you can
grind what you need per
shot. This reduces waste.

ESPRESSO GRINDER
You will need a grinder designed specifically
for espresso and it should only be used for
espresso. It takes time and beans to “dial
a grinder in” (set your grinder up correctly)
to brew a great shot. Adjusting it to go from
espresso to filter and back again during the
course of a day will take a long time—and
waste a lot of coffee.

On/off button
If you don’t have a grinder with
a doser, simply use your on/off
button to stop grinding.
 GRINDING 39

WHICH GRIND FOR WHICH METHOD?

METHOD GRIND

Ibrik coffee pot The texture for making

Turkish coffee in an ibrik should be almost
powdery, so that the maximum flavor
gets extracted in the brewing process.
CLOSE-UP
Most grinders won’t grind fine enough Super-fine grind
for this—you need a special hand
grinder for this purpose.

Espresso machine Espresso is the

least-forgiving brew method, and as such
the grounds’ particle size must be just the
right fine grind, allowing a balanced shot CLOSE-UP
to be extracted. Fine grind

Filter Medium-ground coffee is suitable

for many brewing methods, including
filter pour-over, cloth brewer, stove-top Medium–coarse
pot, electric filter-brew, and cold dripper. grind CLOSE-UP
Within limits, you can increase or decrease
the dosage of coffee you use to get the
result you prefer.

French press These brewers have

no filtration system, so water has
time to penetrate the cell structure
of coarser ground beans. This helps CLOSE-UP
dissolve pleasant solubles while helping Coarse grind
to avoid excessive bitterness.
40 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

TESTING
THE WATER
Water makes up 98–99 percent
of a cup of coffee, so the quality
of water you brew with has a
major impact on the flavor.

WHAT’S IN
YOUR WATER?
Water for brewing coffee should be odorless
and clear in color. The combination of minerals, Carbon filter
salts, and metals that can affect the brew may Activated
not be perceptible by sight or taste. Some areas carbon
absorbs
have water that is clean and soft, while others impurities.
have hard water that may contain chemical
flavors such as chlorine or ammonia. If the water
in your area is too hard, it is in essence already
saturated with minerals and may under-extract WATER FILTER Replace the filter regularly
the coffee, leaving you with a thinner, weaker (when around 22 gallons/100 liters water has been
brew. You may find it necessary to use a higher filtered, or more often if you have hard water).
dose of coffee or a finer grind to compensate for
this. Equally, water that is too soft or has had all
minerals removed can over-extract your coffee,
FILTER IT
dissolving undesirable elements from the bean If your tap water is too hard and you don’t want
and making your coffee taste bitter or sour. to use bottled water for brewing coffee, investing
in a simple home water filter can give you good
QUALITY CHECK results. You can buy filtration kits that are
installed on your water line, or a simple water jug
Test water quality in your own kitchen. Brew with a replaceable carbon filter (as shown above).
two bowls of coffee using the cupping method The difference in flavor between water with and
(as shown on pp24–25). Keep the beans, grind, without the optimum mineral content is quite
and brew recipe the same, but brew one with stark, and is often a surprise to most consumers.
tap water and the other with bottled water. Taste Changing from tap to bottled or filtered water is
them side by side, and you may notice flavors one of the easiest ways to improve the quality
in the coffee that you’ve never noticed before. of coffee at home.
 TESTING THE WATER 41

CHLORINE 0 MG
TOTAL ALKALINITY AROUND 40 MG

PH 7 IRON, MANGANESE,
COPPER 0 MG
SODIUM 5–10 MG
THE PERFECT
COMPOSITION
Buy a test kit to analyze CALCIUM 3–5 GRAINS OR
30–80 MG

TDS
your water. These are

100–200
target water analysis
results for coffee, based
on 13⁄4 pints (1 liter) water.

MG

WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?

The most common term used to describe water your water. “Grains of hardness” is another
quality in relation to the extraction of coffee is term, used to describe the amount of calcium
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), measured in mg/L ions present. The pH should be neutral: if it’s
or parts per million (ppm). This is the combined too high or too low it can cause the coffee to
amount of organic and inorganic compounds in have a flat or unpleasant flavor.
42 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

BREWING ESPRESSO
Espresso is the only method that brews coffee using pump pressure.
When you brew coffee with an espresso machine, the water temperature
is kept below boiling point, which helps to avoid scalding the coffee.

WHAT IS ESPRESSO?
There are many theories and practices when that espresso, at its core, is just a brewing
it comes to brewing espresso, from the classic method as well as the name of a beverage.
Italian approach to the American adaptations, Many people also use the term “espresso” as
and the Scandinavian versions to the Antipodean a way of describing a roast color, but in fact,
interpretations. Irrespective of which approach you can brew espresso using any level of
you prefer and follow, it’s useful to remember roast, and any bean or blend that you prefer.

PREPARING
THE MACHINE
In addition to your machine
manufacturer’s recommendations,
here are a few guidelines that
can help make the road to a good
home espresso a bit smoother.

WHAT DO I NEED?
Equipment
espresso machine
espresso grinder
dry cloth
tamper
tamping mat
cleaning powder
cleaning tools
1 Fill the clean espresso
machine with fresh water and
the grinder with beans that have
2 Wipe the basket
of the portafilter
clean with a dry cloth,
Ingredients been given a week or two to rest so that none of the
roasted coffee beans (rested) and de-gas since roasting. Allow coffee grounds in the
the machine and portafilter to machine are rebrewed.
become thoroughly warmed up.
 BREWING ESPRESSO 43

THEORIES ABOUND ABOUT TIP

THE RIGHT ROAST AND BEAN, Good espresso takes
practice. Try using an
electric scale and small
BUT AT ITS CORE, ESPRESSO measuring glasses to help get
proportions right, taking notes

IS JUST A BREWING METHOD

as you go. Trust your taste,
and experiment to find
out what you like.

3 Flush some water through

the group head to stabilize the
temperature and clean any old coffee
residue off the shower screen.

4 Grind the coffee and dose between

1
/2oz (16g) and 3/4oz (20g) into the
basket, according to its size and your
preferred recipe.
44 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

BREWING THE SHOT

Brewing great coffee repeatedly and consistently Coffee for espresso must be very finely ground,
can be very challenging, and making espresso allowing the water to extract from a larger
at home takes a lot more effort than any other surface area. The result is a small, intense,
brewing method. For those who choose to invest viscous drink with a foam called crema, that
in the machinery required to do a good job, it highlights all the good, but potentially also the
is a hobby as much as a daily drinking ritual. bad, qualities of the bean, roast, and preparation.

2 Use a tamper that

1
fits the size of your
Distribute the coffee
basket. Keeping it level
evenly by gently shaking
to the edges of the basket,
the portafilter or tapping it
press the coffee down
gently on the counter. Use
with a firm push to
a designated distribution
create a solid puck of
tool (as shown) if you prefer.
even thickness. It is
not necessary to apply

TIP
excessive force, to tap
the portafilter, or to
tamp repeatedly.
3 The goal is to push
all the coffee down
and create a firm, even
Don’t press down as you
level the bed of ground bed of grounds that will
coffee—use a tool or your withstand the pressure
finger and move the mound
of coffee from side to side and
of the water and allow the
up and down until you have water to flow through and
loosely filled in all extract the coffee evenly.
of the gaps.
 BREWING ESPRESSO 45

BREWING ESPRESSO CAN BECOME TIP

A HOBBY OR A DAILY DRINKING You may have to throw
away several shots each day
before you grind your coffee to

RITUAL. IT REQUIRES SOME WORK, the right coarseness and get a

shot you are happy with. Check
out the common pitfalls
BUT IS GREAT FUN TO MASTER to brewing the perfect
espresso on p46.

5 Place a warmed
espresso cup under

4
the spouts (or two cups if
Insert the portafilter

6
you wish to split the shot
into the group head, The coffee should appear after
into two singles).
and immediately activate 5–8 seconds, dripping and flowing
the pump to brew, using with a deep brown or golden color
either the volumetric settings that lightens as the brew progresses
for two shots of espresso or and the solubles are washed out. You
the free-flow button, which should extract around 11/2fl oz (50ml)
you switch off when you in 25–30 seconds, including crema.
reach the desired volume.
46 COFFEE KNOW-HOW

IS IT PERFECT?
A well-brewed espresso should have a smooth
layer of crema (see p44) with a deep golden
brown color, free from any large bubbles and
pale or broken spots. The crema needs to
be a couple of millimeters thick once settled,
and should not dissipate too quickly. The taste
should be balanced between sweet and acidic,
and the texture should be smooth and creamy,
leaving you with a pleasant lingering aftertaste.
You should be able to taste the qualities of
the coffee itself over the roast or brewing
technique—be it a chocolatey Guatemalan, a
nutty Brazilian, or a black currant-like Kenyan.
WHAT COULD GO WRONG?
If you have extracted more than 11/2fl oz
(50ml) at the given time (see p45),
it could be because:
• the grind size is too coarse and/or
• the dose is too low Well-brewed espresso
If you have extracted less than 11/2fl oz
(50ml), it could be because:
• the grind is too fine and/or
• you are using too much coffee
If a coffee is too acidic and sour, it could
be because:
• the water in the machine is too cold
• the beans are too lightly roasted
• the grind is too coarse
• the dose is too low
If an espresso is too bitter, it could be because:
• the water is too hot
• the machine is dirty
• the beans are roasted too dark
• the grinder burrs are too dull
• the grind is too fine
• the dose is too high
Imperfect espresso
 BREWING ESPRESSO 47

CLEANING THE MACHINE

TIP
Coffee is made up of oils, particles, and other solubles. Use a small clean brush to
clean off the rubber gasket
If you don’t keep your equipment clean, these substances in the group head of your
can build up and impart a bitter, ashy taste to coffee. Rinse machine. To make sure your
with water between shots, and backflush with specialized gasket stays in place, keep
the portafilter locked into the
cleaning solution daily, or as often as is possible. machine even when you
are not using it.

2 Knock the spent puck

out of the portafilter,
and wipe it clean with
a dry cloth.

1 Set the cup to the

side, and remove
the portafilter from the
3 Flush the group head with some water
to remove any coffee stuck on the
screen, rinsing off the spouts at the same
group head. time. Place the portafilter back in the group
head to keep it warm for the next shot.
48 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

MILK MATTERS
A good cup of coffee deserves to be enjoyed black, without milk, sugar, or other
flavorings; but nobody can deny that milk is a perfect pairing that is enjoyed
by millions every day. Steam your milk to accentuate its naturally sweet flavor.

TYPES OF MILK
You can steam any type of milk you like—whole, almond, hazelnut, or lactose-free milk will steam
low-fat, or fat-free, but there are differences in and produce foam. Rice milk does not produce
the taste and texture. Low-fat milks produce a lot much foam, but can be a substitute for those
of foam but might feel a bit dry and crisp. Full-fat with nut allergies. Some of these milks seem to
milks might produce less foam but will be smooth heat quicker and the foam might be less stable
and creamy. Even nondairy milks like soy, or smooth than with dairy.

STEAMING
Practice with larger volumes
of milk than you might need
to prepare your drink. This
gives you time to experiment
before the temperature gets
too high and you have to
stop. A pint (1-liter) pitcher,
half full with milk, is best
to start with, as long as the
steam wand on your machine
reaches the surface of the
milk. If it doesn’t, try a
11/2 pint (750ml) or 16fl oz
(500ml) pitcher. Any smaller

1 2
than this can make it tricky, Use a steaming pitcher Purge any water or milk
as the milk heats up too fast that tapers slightly residue out of your steam
for you to get used to the at the top as you will arm until only clean steam
movement of the milk and need room for the milk comes out. To avoid spilling,
the rate at which to add air. to swirl, expand, and foam wrap a dedicated cloth around
up without spilling. Start the steam nozzle to catch
with cold, fresh milk, and any water. Take care to keep
fill the pitcher no more your fingers away from the
than half full, as shown. nozzle so as not to burn them.
 MILK MATTERS 49

AS TINY POCKETS OF AIR AND

TIP
STEAM ARE ADDED TO THE If you don’t want to waste a
lot of milk to practice on, you can

MILK, YOU WILL HEAR GENTLE,

use water with a small drop of
dishwashing liquid to mimic the
process until you’re comfortable

CONTROLLED SLURPING NOISES with the concept of adding air

and spinning the milk in
a controlled manner.

4 If you’re right-handed,
hold the handle of the
pitcher in your right hand
and use your left to turn the
steam on. Don’t hesitate to
turn it up quite high. If you

3 Hold the pitcher

level and upright.
Position the steam
don’t use enough steam
pressure, you won’t create
any bubbles and the milk
5 The direction of the steam pressure
should push the milk around in
circles. The longer you maintain the
arm inside the pitcher will make a loud, screeching slurping noise, the more foam you will
at an angle, slightly sound. Move your left hand generate. As the foam increases, it acts
off-center but not to the bottom of the steam as a sound buffer and reduces the noise.
touching the sides. pitcher. It will now function As the noise gets gentler, the bubbles
The nozzle should be as your temperature gauge. get smaller creating a denser foam.
only just submerged.
TECHNIQUE CONTINUES
50 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

STEAMING (continued)

TIP
Milk will taste sweet
and can be enjoyed
immediately when it is
steamed to about 140–150°F
(60–65°C). Any higher
than that may result
in a boiled oatmeal-
like taste.

7 Add air only while

the milk is still cold.
Once you feel the base
of the pitcher reach body
temperature, stop adding
air—any bubbles formed
beyond about 99°F (37°C)
are harder to mix into a
smooth foam. If you add

8
air in as soon as the steam
6 As the milk warms, it
expands and rises up
above the nozzle, cutting
is switched on, you should
have plenty of time to
Swirl the milk until the bottom
of the pitcher becomes too hot to
touch. Move your left hand away, give
create as much foam
off the air. For lots of foam, the process another 3 seconds, and turn
as you’d like.
lower the pitcher so the the steam off. This should result in milk
nozzle remains at the surface. at about 140–150°F (60–65°C). If you
For less, let the milk rise hear a deep, rumbling noise, you are
above the nozzle. Maintain boiling the milk and it will taste eggy
the swirling of the liquid or oatmeal-like, not ideal for coffee.
and beat the big bubbles into
smaller bubbles to create
a smoother, denser foam.
 MILK MATTERS 51

STORING MILK
As long as the milk is fresh, it will produce
foam with the right steaming technique.
Even if the milk is within its “best before”
date, the vital foam-stabilizing proteins
may have degenerated to the point where
they will struggle to aid in the formation of
bubbles, so always go for milk with the most
shelf-life left. Daylight is also damaging,
so buy your milk in an opaque container,
and keep refrigerated between use.

9 Set the pitcher down

to the side. Use a
damp cloth to clean the
steam wand, and purge
for a few seconds into the
cloth to ensure that any
milk residue on the inside
of the wand is expelled. If
there are any big bubbles
on the surface of the milk,
a few seconds of rest will
weaken them. Gently tap
the jug on the countertop
to burst them.

10 Once the big bubbles

stop appearing, swirl
the milk around in the
11 By swirling to keep the
milk and foam mixed right
up until the point where you pour
TIP pitcher until you achieve a it into your cup, you will not need
There is no need to move glossy, shiny texture of milk a spoon to get the foam out, and
the milk pitcher vigorously and foam combined. If you with some practice, you will also
at any stage. The force and
direction of the steam should are left with an “island” of be able to create latte art.
do all the work, so just keep a dry foam floating around in
steady position and controlled the middle, gently slosh the
angle of the steam arm
and pitcher. milk from side to side to try
to incorporate it, then swirl
again in a circular motion.
52 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

LATTE ART
Your milk must be smooth and have a dense foam, but it should look beautiful, too!
Latte art takes practice, but once mastered, it’ll spruce up a cup of coffee. Many
designs start with a basic heart, so start with that and see where it takes you.

HEART
This design suits a slightly
thicker layer of milk foam
and so is a good choice to
try on cappuccinos.

2 Once the cup is about

half full, quickly lower
the pitcher down to the cup
while maintaining your
pour and its position in the
middle. You should see a
circle of milky foam start
to spread out into the cup.

1 Start by pouring the

steamed milk into the
middle of the crema from
3 When the cup is nearly full,
lift your pitcher back up and
pour a line through the circle,
about 2in (5cm) above the allowing the flow of the milk to
cup, letting the crema rise pull it out into a heart shape.
and stretch the “canvas.”
 MILK MATTERS 53

POURING LIKE A PRO

If you pour milk from too great a height, it lifts won’t get the movement you need to create a
up the crema, leaving very little white on the pattern; if too fast, the crema and milk will mix
surface. Conversely, if you pour the milk when uncontrollably. Practice pouring from a 16fl oz
your pitcher is too close to the cup, it drowns the (500ml) pitcher into a large cup, until you find
crema in white foam. If you pour too slowly, you the perfect balance between height and speed.

ROSETTA
Often seen on caffè lattes
and flat whites, the rosetta
works best with a slightly
thinner foam.

2 Let the flow of milk

spill out in a zigzag-
like pattern. When your
cup is nearly full, start
moving the pitcher
backward to create
increasingly smaller
zigzag shapes.

1 Follow step 1 for the

heart, opposite, then
once the cup is about half
3 When you have finished
creating your zigzags,
pour a line straight down
full, quickly lower the pitcher the middle to finish, holding
down to the cup. Start your pitcher from a little
rocking it gently from side to more height.
side in a “tick tock” motion.
54 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

SWIRL THE JUG CONTINUOUSLY, TIP

RIGHT UP TO THE POINT OF
As well as free-pouring
latte art designs like the heart,
rosetta, and tulip, some enjoy

POURING, TO KEEP THE FOAM etching. This involves creating

designs, such as chasing hearts
(pictured, far left), by pulling
AND MILK FROM SEPARATING a thin utensil through
dollops of milk foam.

TULIP
The tulip is an advanced
version of the heart (see
p52) that uses a stop-
and-start technique.

2 Stop your pour

and start again 1⁄2in
(1cm) behind the first
pour, carefully moving the

1 Start as you would for

the heart, pouring a
small circle of white into
pitcher forward as the
foam comes out, pushing
the first circle forward
the middle of the cup. and out to the sides
in a crescent shape.

3 Repeat until you have as many

“leaves” as you would like.
Finish with a small heart on top,
pulling the line down through
the leaves to create the stem.
ELABORATE Adapt the basic designs
to create (clockwise from top left): multi-
tulips, chasing hearts, swans, rosetta hearts.