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TexSPACE Today June 2023 Issue

The document discusses the fast fashion industry's significant environmental impact, generating 92 million tons of textile waste annually, and highlights the urgent need for sustainable alternatives. It outlines various brands' initiatives towards circularity and sustainability, such as H&M's circular ecosystem, SHEIN's resale efforts, and Zara's use of recycled materials. The document emphasizes the importance of adopting eco-friendly practices and materials to mitigate the fashion industry's negative effects on the environment and promote social justice.
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© © All Rights Reserved
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
18 views37 pages

TexSPACE Today June 2023 Issue

The document discusses the fast fashion industry's significant environmental impact, generating 92 million tons of textile waste annually, and highlights the urgent need for sustainable alternatives. It outlines various brands' initiatives towards circularity and sustainability, such as H&M's circular ecosystem, SHEIN's resale efforts, and Zara's use of recycled materials. The document emphasizes the importance of adopting eco-friendly practices and materials to mitigate the fashion industry's negative effects on the environment and promote social justice.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 37

SPACE

Volume 01, Issue 01, 40 Pages

June 2023

 www.texspacetoday.com

Sustainability

Energy Precision

Circularity Automation

Massimo Pisaneschi, Sales Director, Dell’orco & Villani


Kerajet Introduces Advancing
Focusing on recycling Full Flexibility for sustainability in fashion
is must for a circular Every Stamping industry: emerging
textile industry Need at ITMA 2023 technologies at
ITMA 2023
More at... 19 More at... 18 More at... 08
Content June 2023

4 Why fast fashion’s


negative consequences
call for sustainable
15 Dell’Orco & Villani
teams up with Dilo
on textile recycling
26 Tackling fashion
waste: a cross-
continental
alternatives technology perspective
on European
and American

6 Circularity goals of
some fast fashion
16 Jeanologia to
approaches

28
brands showcase End of the
Water era in textile Textiles Circularity
dyeing at ITMA 2023 can benefit the
Ecology and

8 Advancing
sustainability in 18 Kerajet to showcase
advanced digital
Economy together

30
fashion industry:
printing solutions at
emerging technologies Rise of AI-Powered
ITMA 2023
at ITMA 2023 Virtual Influencers:
Intersection of

10 EcoVia: Replacing
plastic with low-
19 Focusing on recycling
is must for a circular
textile industry
Fashion, Textiles,
and Social Media

cost biodegradable
packaging
33 Urgent call for

21
recycling textile

11
SCTI and ‘Together factories, paving the
Puma accelerates use for Sustainability’ to sustainable path for
of recycled materials collaborate in driving Bangladesh
for sustainable transformations in
products textile and leather
industries
35 Hidden cost of fast
fashion: Unveiling

12 22
environmental and
Exploring enormous Moving towards social consequences
opportunities of digital sustainable energy:
transformation and From landfilling to
Digital Printing green solutions

36 Scopes & impact

13 24
of EU Strategy
Sustainable fashion: for Sustainable &
Future of EU apparel
paving the way for a Circular Textiles
industry will be shaped
by Digital Product post-fast fashion era
Passport
A fashionable shift:

Why fast fashion’s


negative consequences
call for sustainable
alternatives
Saiful Saad

The fast fashion industry relies on a quick and efficient With outlets in several countries, fast fashion merchants
supply chain due to short production cycles and quick have spread globally. Their products are more accessible
turnaround times. It entails employing low-wage labor thanks to their broad retail networks, both online and offline.
in countries with lax labor standards. Fast fashion
Fast fashion companies invest much in marketing and
manufacturers frequently outsource their manufacturing
advertising. They often work with celebrities, influencers,
to developing countries to take advantage of lower
and fashion bloggers to promote their collections. Their
production costs.
brand recognition and popularity have improved due to
The fast fashion market was valued at around $35.8 billion this marketing strategy.
in 2020. It is projected to reach a value of $44.8 billion
Fashion democracy and fast fashion bridge the gap
by 2028, growing at a compound annual growth rate
between haute couture and everyday consumers. It has
(CAGR) of 8.7% during the forecast period from 2021 to
challenged the idea that fashion is only for the wealthy by
2028. Several global retailers are prominent players in the
offering stylish and affordable solutions that appeal to a
fast fashion market, including Zara, H&M, Forever 21,
broad spectrum of populations.
Primark, and Uniqlo.
Fast fashion and environment
The reason behind fast fashion being
famous The fast fashion industry generates a significant amount
of textile waste. Each year, approximately 92 million tons
Fast fashion companies have expanded fashion’s reach by of textile waste are generated globally. (Source: Ellen
offering affordable apparel options. Customers may stay in MacArthur Foundation)
style without going overboard with their high-end-inspired
trendy clothing. As much as 12% of fibers are still discarded on factory

Fast Fashion Generates 92 mn


tons of Textile waste Annually

$44.8bn Fast Fashion


Market value by 2028

$35.8bn Fast Fashion


Market Value in 2020

4 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Customers may stay Affordable Reasons behind
in style without apparel options fast fashion being
going overboard for masses famous

floors, 25% of fast fashion garments remain unsold, and fashion is not cheap like fast fashion – in the supply
less than 1% of products are recycled into new garments. chain it increases the chances of fair wages and safety for
the workers. And most importantly, sustainable fashion
The impact is so severe that only the oil industry pollutes
promotes recycling, upcycling, and renewable materials to
the environment more than fast fashion, contributing to
reduce waste and dependency on new resources.
climate disasters and human suffering.
Moreover, sustainability in process, material,
Due to the cheap nature of fast fashion, consumers hoard
implementation, clothing brand, inventory, and supply
fast fashion For fear of missing out. However, only half of
chain can significantly affect fast fashion’s global status.
those clothes are worn, leaving the other half untouched.
Circularity and waste reduction are essential. And globally
Fast fashion has created 52 micro-seasons a year instead
leading brands are increasingly using more and more,
of the traditional two seasons, Spring/Summer and Fall/
durable, reusable, and recyclable products.
Winter, so stores have new merchandise every week. Thus,
80 billion new clothes are bought annually. We consume It is necessary to track a product’s materials, chemicals,
400% more than in the 1990s. production practices, use, end of life, and social and
environmental conditions to ensure fashion sustainability
In addition, the issue of microplastic pollution is too big
and create a circular fashion industry.
for the industry. As fast fashion heavily relies on synthetic
fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which are derived Blockchain technology keeps a decentralized, tamper-
from nonrenewable resources and have a negative proof ledger of a garment’s life. Efforts like the Founder
environmental impact. Every wash of synthetic fiber of Forbes & Fast Company and known as ‘Technology
garments releases a massive amount of microplastics into Pioneer’ Martine Jarlgaard worked with blockchain
water bodies, contributing to plastic pollution. startup Provenance to create QR codes revealing the
garment’s history are coming up. While companies like
Road to sustainable fashion Eon is creating Circular ID software that gives each
On the other hand, due to the rising concern among garment a digital fingerprint. It uses a digital ID in the
consumers, governments and NGOs – the demand clothing to track its life.
for sustainable fashion has increased tremendously. Fast fashion needs a better alternative in recent years and
According to researchandmarkets.com, the ethical fashion in the future. For society’s benefit, fast fashion should
market reached a value of nearly $7.54 billion in 2022, be replaced by sustainable fashion. Sustainability in the
having grown at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) fashion industry requires sustainable materials, ethical
of 6.5% since 2017. The market is expected to grow to labor practices, circularity, consumer education, and
$11.12 billion in 2027 at a rate of 8.1%. The market is collaboration. By implementing these measures, the
then expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.6% from 2027 and fashion industry can reduce its environmental impact,
reach $16.81 billion in 2032. promote social justice, and create a more sustainable and
The nature of sustainable fashion is that it promotes responsible future. Sustainability must be a global trend
eco-friendly materials, reduces waste, and minimizes in brands and communities. A sustainable future requires
carbon emissions while prioritizing fair wages, safe natural and human balance. The global goal should now
working conditions, and workers’ rights. As sustainable be sustainable fashion.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 5


Circularity goals of some
fast fashion brands
Homayra Anjumi Hoque

Fast fashion companies generate 92 million tons of textile


ys
waste globally annually, which is expected to rise to 134 urne Cir
cu
r jo
million tons by 2030. This is due to chemical and toxic

lar
e
om
Assortment

pro
dyes on synthetic materials such as polyester, which are

Circular cust
Access planning Design &

ducts
hazardous to our health and require 9 trillion liters of Product
Development
water each year for dyeing and manufacturing fast fashion.
Use &
As consumers, the more we buy and waste, the more we care
Repair
contribute to climate change. & remake
Collect Raw
& sort Materials
H&M: For decades, H&M has operated in a linear fashion
analogy – take, make, and waste. They’ve been committed
to fashion criteria that use resources responsibly.
Recycle Production
ins
According to Pascal Brun, Head of Sustainability at H&M
Cir
cula ly cha
r supp
said, “Our approach aligns with the Ellen MacArthur
Foundation (EMF) definition of a circular economy, SHEIN: Adam Whinston, global head of ESG at Shein,
which focuses on three key principles: Eliminate waste said, “Shein Exchange aims to ‘make resale as easy and
and pollution, Circulating products and materials with the convenient’ as buying something new while activating
highest value, nature regeneration.” a rotation culture. “We are calling on the community to
step up and keep used clothing in circulation for as long
After the announcement of H&M Corporation about as possible,” Whinston said. “By tapping into the reach
the circular economy and climate-positive ambitions, and influence of our growing community, we believe
intending to implement a circular economy throughout repurchasing could become the new normal in our
its business – the organization aspired to build a roadmap industry,” he added.
for a ‘cyclic ecosystem.’ This roadmap is subject to
climate and biodiversity. H&M Group’s ‘circular ecosystem’ SHEIN, a global e-retailer of fashion, beauty, and lifestyle
development strategy is based on the following three pillars: products, and Queen of Raw, a global circular economy
technology company whose flagship software, Materia
1. Circular products: Creating products made to last MX, solves supply chain excess inventory issues for
from safe, recycled and more sustainably sourced materials Fortune 500 companies, announced a collaboration to help
(i.e., naturally grown, cultivated, or created using renewable SHEIN become a leading rescuer of high-quality deadstock
processes) that can recirculate multiple times. materials. The company will develop a circular business model
2. Circular supply chains: Fueling systems that that reduces textile waste and raw material consumption by
recirculate products and support circular production repurposing excess inventory from other brands.
processes and material flows. SHEIN uses Materia MX, Queen of Raw’s proprietary
3. Circular customer journeys: Providing accessible software, to source materials from brands and retailers
ways to experience and engage in a circular fashion where looking to responsibly dispose of their fabric inventory
products are used more, repaired, reused, and recycled. and warehouse instead of dumping them in landfills.
Queen of Raw’s impact measurement algorithms,
According to Vanessa Rothschild, H&M Group’s global developed with support from MIT Innovative Future
sustainability steering and development manager said, Solutions, show that removing 1 million yards of fabric
“At H&M Group, we’re testing circular models through from excess inventory would put SHEIN on track to
various initiatives such as COS Resell, a digital space for become a global leader in cladding material reuse,
buying and selling pre-owned items. But the exciting part saving water and preventing conventional manufacturing
is scaling these business models and decoupling business methods from generating carbon dioxide equivalents.
growth from resource use. By 2030, these initiatives
won’t just be scattered, sporadic initiatives. They’ll become The partnership with Queen of Raw contributes to
interconnected initiatives that form the core of our business.” SHEIN’s newly established sustainability roadmap,

6 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


evoluSHEIN. This overarching framework, comprised
of three key pillars – equitable empowerment, collective
resilience, and waste-less innovation – builds on and
further guides the company’s sustainability journey by
addressing the most critical social and environmental
challenges facing the fashion industry today.

Levi’s and Strauss Co: Within the ‘Consumption’


segment, Levi’s stated that it wants to either increase or
introduce resale and upcycling initiatives to be circular-
ready by 2026, which it will measure against the Ellen
MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular Framework.

Levi’s will launch a more circular iteration of its 501


Original jeans as part of its ongoing partnership with
Swedish sustainable technology company Renewcell. The
ZARA: Zara’s new collection with Circ, made from new 501 jeans will be made with Renewcell’s Circulose
recycled textile waste, could revolutionize the industry. fiber, a sustainably sourced viscose made in part from
Four lightweight women’s suits in lyocell or polyester, recycled denim and organic cotton. It is also designed
made from polyester-cotton textile scraps, are part of to be fully recyclable. The new material mix will mean
the collection. This is a significant advancement because that the jeans use far fewer natural resources and fewer
blended fibers like polyester-cotton have been virtually chemicals to produce, aligning with Levi’s broader
impossible to recycle, impeding the industry’s goals for a strategy for resource conservation across its products’ life
circular economy. Circ claims that it can separate polyester cycles and commitments to embrace circularity.
from cotton and transform both into new textiles. Zara’s Under the Circularity Consumption pillar, the firm intends to:
lyocell clothing is $69.90 per piece and is made with 50
percent recycled cotton yarn that Circ separates from 1. Increase resale and upcycling initiatives to extend
poly-cotton waste and converts into lyocell-like cellulose. product life by 2025
The remaining 50% of the garment material is traditional 2. Ensure zero-waste-to-landfill from its company-
lyocell. Polyester clothing is made with 43% recycled yarn, operated facilities and 50% diversion of waste across
similar to the polyester yarn that Circ separates from poly- strategic suppliers by 2030
cotton and 57% regular polyester.
3. Eliminate single-use plastics in consumer-facing
ZARA has expressed a roadmap towards their circularity packaging by using 100% reusable, recyclable or home-
goals for the next 17 years. compostable plastics by 2030

2022 ZARA pre-owned 4. 100% certified screened chemistry at garment wet


50% join the life collection finishing manufacturing and fabric mills by 2026
100% renewable electrical energy in operations
2023 More sustainable 100% artificial cellulosic fibers 5. Use of third-party preferred or certified more
and cotton sustainable primary materials by 2030
100% redesigned packaging to facilitate its reuse
and recycling 6. Reduce supply chain GHG emissions by 40% by 2025
100% elimination of single-use plastics for 7. Reduce GHG emissions by 90% at its company-
customers
operated facilities and use 100% renewable electricity
100% of waste from own facilities is collected and
processed for reuse or recycling across those facilities by 2025
2025 More sustainable 100% linen and more 8. Achieve net-zero emissions by 2050
sustainable or recycled polyester
25% reduction of water impact in the supply chain 9. Reduce the use of freshwater in manufacturing processes
50% reduction of virgin plastic in own facilities by 50% in areas with high water stress by 2025
as per commitment with the Ellen MacArthur
Foundation 10. Evaluate and identify material impacts and
2040 Zero net emissions dependencies on nature across the value chain.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 7


Advancing sustainability in
fashion industry: Emerging
technologies at ITMA 2023
Faujia Mushtari

Increased textile waste and environmental degradation software are presented. The Monarch Monitoring System
due to the fashion industry’s rampant fast fashion model (MMS) for Industry 4.0 is just one example of how far
is pushing textile machinery manufacturers to come up their technology has brought the digitalization of textiles.
with sustainable and circularity solutions. And this will be
highly reflected in the upcoming ITMA 2023 Exhibition Yarn sensors
in Milan starting on 8 June. Dent Instrumentation’s highly accurate sensors are crucial
in yarn spinning and winding processes. These long-
This report highlights the potential of a few emerging
lasting sensors work well at different speeds and provide
technologies and innovations to be showcased at ITMA
consistent performance in various environments.
2023 to aid in the transition to a sustainable, circular
fashion economy.

Color assessment
UltraView from VeriVide is an Sustainable Fashion Tech

ITMA 2023
all-LED light booth designed for
reliable, repeatable color evaluation.
Together, their DigiEye system for
non-contact color measurement and
this sustainable solution provides
financial and ecological benefits.
Circular Practices
Sustainable materials, AI integration,
cutting-edge recycling tech
Thread bonding
The IR Bonder, developed by
Roaches International, is an infrared Notable Technologies
(IR) curing chamber and low-energy Color Assessment, Thread Bonding, Garment
Performance Testing, Circular Knitting, Yarn Sensors
single-end bond applicator. The
nylon terpolymer solution in this
system bonds sewing threads and has Recycling of Textile Waste
potential uses in the automotive and Dell’orco & Villani, ANDRITZ, DILO Group, GNEUSS,
medical industries. JBF, OERLIKON BARMAG, THIES, TEMAFA, XETMA
VOLLENWEIDER
Garment performance
testing Processing of Recycled Materials
BRÜCKNER, ANDRITZ, DILO Group, KARL MAYER
The Luft performance haptics tester, Group, STC SPINNZWIRN, SAURER, TEXTECHNO,
created by Roaches International and TRÜTZSCHLER
Leeds University, has a soft release.
This tester allows a more accurate Cloud-based Platform
prediction of how various garments TEXconnect by BMSvision
will feel and function.

Circular knitting Benefits


The newest circular knitting machines Increased sustainability, waste
reduction, resource optimization
from Monarch Knitting Machinery
and innovative design simulation

8 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Recycling of textile production waste and filtration, while SAURER optimizes spinning machines
textiles for recycled fibers.

Solutions for recycling textile production waste and Both TEXTECHNO and TRÜTZSCHLER sell
textiles will be displayed at ITMA 2023. A global leader in machinery for making yarn from recycled materials, and
the recycling industry with its ground-breaking innovation both specialize in testing recycled fibers and yarns. Surface
and unique design machines – Dell’orco & Villani has finishing machines for recycled textiles are on display at
been transforming the waste recycling sector with its XETMA VOLLENWEIDER.
highly advanced and uniquely designed machines. And in
Cloud-based platform
ITMA 2023 – they will display their latest innovations at
the exhibition. To facilitate streamlined data management and process
optimization throughout the textile manufacturing supply
Rieter – a Swiss company that specializes in
chain, BMSvision has introduced TEXconnect, a cloud-
manufacturing machinery, systems, and components for
based platform that provides a comprehensive set of
spinning mills to convert natural and man-made fibers into
Manufacturing Execution System (MES) functions.
yarns efficiently – will unveil its latest solutions for energy
efficiency during the opening day of ITMA. Data collection hardware and
Another industry leader in textile waste recycling from infrastructure
the manufacturing and consumer sectors – ANDRITZ TEXconnect utilizes dependable data collection hardware
will present its textile-recycling processes, including textile and infrastructure for efficient and effective data-driven
fiber preparation, mechanical and chemical recycling, and decision-making in manufacturing.
combined processes.
ITMA 2023 will showcase the most cutting-edge
While German group DILO technologies and innovations
GROUP will demonstrate that make the fashion
the latest developments in the industry more sustainable.
supply of lines for staple fiber
ITMA 2023 will showcase
Circularity, waste reduction,
nonwoven fabric production the most cutting-edge and resource optimization are
at the exhibition. technologies and innovations at the heart of the emerging
technologies profiled in this
GNEUSS offers effective fiber that make the fashion industry
waste recycling solutions, and report. Discarded textiles can
more sustainable. Circularity, be transformed into valuable
JBF makes textile and fiber
treatment machinery. waste reduction, and resource materials with the help of
cutting-edge technologies,
OERLIKON BARMAG
optimization are at the heart of
such as those used for sorting
introduces their bottle flakes the emerging technologies and preparing post-consumer
and film waste homogenizer garments and spinning and
recycling system. dying.
While THIES facilitates the process of bleaching and The best-known companies are pioneers in using
re-dyeing recycled fibers and yarns, TEMAFA provides sustainable materials and supply chain circularity.
machinery for opening and de-dusting textile products. Increased efficiency and visibility in the textile
manufacturing process can be achieved through cloud-
Processing of recycled materials
based platforms and data-driven decision-making.
Technologies for treating recyclables will be on display at
By providing a forum for business leaders to network, gain
ITMA 2023.
insight, and exchange ideas, ITMA 2023 helps to promote
BRÜCKNER and ANDRITZ manufacture textile an environment where sustainability and innovation
finishing lines and nonwoven production lines for recycled thrive. With continued technological advancements and a
fibers. DILO GROUP provides complete nonwoven collective commitment to circularity, the fashion industry
product lines for used fibers. can transition to a more sustainable future by minimizing
its environmental impact and promoting responsible
KARL MAYER GROUP showcases a concept of the
consumption and production practices.
circular economy in warp knitting by transforming
recycled yarns into superior fabrics. STC SPINNZWIRN
provides recycled materials for carpet production and

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 9


EcoVia: Replacing
plastic with low-cost
biodegradable packaging
Asif Iqbal

EcoVia is on a mission to mitigate the ongoing plastic environment but also lowers the packing process’s costs.
pollution crisis by providing eco-friendly alternatives. The accumulated savings outweigh the cost of the
Their biodegradable and bio-compostable biopolymer transition over time.
packaging materials are solutions to soil and water
If a company replaced its standard packaging materials
contamination due to the spread of harmful microplastics.
with bioplastic, it would enjoy weight savings on par with
With the idea of replacing single-use plastic at a
regular plastic. According to research, plastic packaging
competitive price and helping combat plastic pollution to
allows for weight savings of up to 78 percent compared to
preserve the balance of nature, EcoVia as a company was
other materials, a significant number for business owners
founded in 2020.
looking to convert.
Their products are used in different instances, from ready-
made garment (RMG) product packaging to shopping Why EcoVia?
bags, with the idea of providing customers with eco- EcoVia ensures sustainability by converting waste into
friendly, bio-degradable and quality products. value and replacing conventional plastic with eco-friendly
alternatives. Compostable EcoVia packaging can naturally
Plastic Recycling
degrade in soil or composting zones, ensuring a circular
Plastic goods are beneficial since they are long-lasting, economy. Their packaging materials are made using
yet this downside becomes apparent when the objects cotton-based apparel waste, compostable within 150 days.
are discarded. Natural processes that disintegrate many
Their products are also cheaper than other compostable
paper, cardboard, and wood items in months do not affect
alternatives because they are made from cotton fabric
plastic materials. Plastics gather in landfills, resulting in
waste and sold cheaply. Their packaging materials also
a mountain of trash that never seems to disappear. Plastic
ensure that no petroleum-based polymers are being used.
fragments constitute ugly annoyances and risks to animals in
nature. Diverting discarded plastics from the refuse stream While ordinary plastic takes 450 years to degrade,
and turning them into new goods keeps these persistent EcoVia’s products decompose in 150 days, not years! This
materials out of landfills and the natural environment. is ground-breaking and a suitable response to the global
climate issue we are currently confronting.
Biodegradable Packaging
Plastic’s non-disposability is not its sole issue. Each
Biodegradable packaging has the potential to reduce
kilogram of plastic generates six kilos of carbon,
water consumption, solid waste, energy consumption,
significantly contributing to climate change. Biodegradable
and greenhouse gas emissions. This is good for the

Product Categories

Apparel bags Plain shopping bags Folded carrier bags Customizable

10 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Figure 1: How EcoVia packaging is made

The Team
EcoVia Ltd. consists of 3 co-founders who have worked
Figure 1: How EcoVia packaging is made
together for over 2 years. The team is well-balanced,
comprising members with expertise in technical know-
plastic, on the other hand, decomposes faster and does not how and excellent operations, market, and business
disrupt the natural equilibrium. acumen.

This is precisely why EcoVia’s biodegradable plastics Riasat Zaman, Co-Founder, EcoVia, believes that
have the potential to avert this crisis. Compared to regular EcoVia can successfully solve global plastic pollution by
plastic, each kilogram of EcoVia’s bioplastic product saves collaborating with big brands like Walmart, Tesco, H&M,
5.5 kilograms of carbon. Zara, and others while ensuring a circular economy.

Puma accelerates use of recycled


materials for sustainable products
Arif-uz-zaman

Puma, the renowned German-based sporting goods a significant


manufacturer, has significantly increased its commitment portion of Puma’s
to sustainability by scaling up the use of recycled materials carbon emissions
in its products. According to Puma’s recent Sustainability originates.
Report for 2022, the company successfully produced seven
Puma’s core
out of ten products using better materials, such as cotton
suppliers,
and viscose from certified sources or recycled polyester. This Figure: According to Puma’s recent Sustainability Report
accounting for for 2022, the company successfully produced seven out of
achievement not only reduced the environmental footprint ten products using better materials, such as cotton and
approximately viscose from certified sources or recycled polyester. Courtesy:
in terms of CO2 emissions but also improved Puma’s overall Shutterstock
80% of its
environmental impact across its product range.
production volume, have more than doubled their
Over the years, Puma has made remarkable progress in consumption of renewable energy in just one year. From
reducing CO2 emissions from materials by 32% since 0.2% in 2017, they have now reached 11% in 2022.
2017. However, the company believes there is still room
Moreover, Puma has taken substantial steps in
for improvement and aims to further reduce overall CO2
incorporating recycled materials into its products.
emissions by an additional 7%, despite experiencing
Over 50% of the polyester used in Puma’s apparel
significant growth in sales.
and accessories now comes from recycled materials,
One of Puma’s notable achievements in sustainability is showcasing the company’s commitment to circularity and
its commitment to powering 100% of its offices, stores, waste reduction.
and warehouses with renewable energy. In 2022, the
To ensure the well-being and rights of workers in Puma’s
company continued to achieve this milestone, ensuring
extensive supply chain, the company collected audit
that its operations have a minimal carbon footprint.
reports from 510 factories producing finished products and
Puma has successfully encouraged its suppliers to increase materials in 2022.
their use of renewable energy in the supply chain, where

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 11


Exploring enormous
opportunities of digital
transformation and
Digital Printing
Sanjay Saha

Less or almost no water is needed to complete the digital


printing process. All fabric types, like cotton, synthetic
& blended cotton fabric, are being printed digitally more
sustainably, ensuring the buyer’s sustainability requirements.

Even nowadays, digital transformation in fabric or direct


garment printing is having a significant impact on creating
new fashion trends also. DTG or Direct to Garments
printing trends have already been introduced in the
Western world. Customers can go to a shop & choose the
design & color of the print and the shops are equipped
with such developed machinery so that customized single
pcs delivery from the shop is also possible instantly. And
all these new and fast fashion trends are possible due to
Figure 1:Digital fabric printing trends are becoming increas-
ingly popular in the global fashion market the excellent development of digital printing machinery.

Digital fabric printing trends are becoming increasingly As textile dyeing is associated with immense pollution,
popular in the global fashion market. Global technological Digital printing has opened up enormous opportunities
development has accelerated in response to trends. In the to shift the trends from Dyeing to Digital Printing. New
Western world, European production houses are looking developments in machinery are helping fashion designers
for the latest developments in the Digital printing segment think differently to think of digital printing instead of
to meet the end-user’s customized demands. The grey dying. News fashion trends are being developed following
fabric is imported into European countries, where it is printed. the enormous advantages of digital printing worldwide,
Significant technological advancement in the digitization of especially in Europe.
fabric printing has been made to meet these demands. Customization is another trend that can only be fulfilled
Pretreatment & finishing procedures are needed to with the help of digital printing. Machine manufacturers
complete the digital fabric printing process. World’s are working at the same pace to meet these customization
renowned machinery suppliers have gone through in- demands. New machinery with new features is being
depth research & development to avoid the pretreatment developed to make the total fabric or garments printing
& finishing process. And significant developments have process much more friendly to meet the customized
already been made. New technologies have already been demands of European consumers.
introduced which help avoid the pretreatment & finishing Tex SPACE Today is keeping an eye on the latest
procedures so the countries from the Western world can developments in the digitization of fabric or garment
do customized digital printing more quickly at their end to printing and will continue to update readers on the latest
meet the fashion trends. developments so that European fashion makers can use
With digital transformation in fabric or garment printing, technologically developed machinery to meet the new
sustainable fabric production has become more accessible. demand for customization, sustainability, and fashion trends.

12 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Future of EU apparel
industry will be
shaped by Digital
Product Passport
M A Mohiemen Tanim

The Digital Product Passport (DPP) of the European information and the need to transition to more sustainable
Union is propelling the massive shift that is about to practices. Providing transparent and standardized product
occur in the textile and apparel sector. The DPP, which information empowers consumers, businesses, and
was created to improve sustainability and circularity, regulators to make informed decisions.
makes use of digital technology to offer thorough product
information throughout its cycle.

Understanding the EU’s Digital Product


Passport
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is a digital tool
developed by the European Union (EU) to provide
standardized and comprehensive information about
the product lifecycle, sustainability attributes, and
environmental impact. It serves as a digital identity
card for products, enabling data collection, storage, and
Figure 2: Dimensions of Digital Product Passport (DPP),
exchange throughout their value chain. Courtesy: IOTA Blog

The DPP promotes the transition to a circular economy


The DPP’s purpose is to enhance sustainability, circularity,
by encouraging product traceability, reuse, and recycling.
and transparency in various sectors. It addresses
It supports the design of products that are easily
challenges such as limited access to reliable product
disassembled, repaired, or recycled, reducing waste and
resource consumption.

DPP facilitates market access and compliance by


providing a consistent set of product data that complies
with regulatory requirements. This streamlines market
surveillance, trade, and customs procedures, reducing
administrative burdens. DPP fosters innovation and
collaboration by providing a platform for knowledge
exchange and best practices. It encourages collaboration
between stakeholders, including manufacturers, suppliers,
and research institutions, to drive sustainable product
design, manufacturing processes, and business models.

Factors that influence European Union (EU) to implement


Digital Product Passport (DPP) as soon as possible:

The European Union (EU) is aware of the pressing


Figure 1: The Digital Product Passport (DPP) of the European Union is propelling the massive
shift that is about to occur in the textile and apparel sector. Courtesy: Gabriela Hearst environmental and social issues that various industries,

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 13


including the textile and apparel industry, are facing and • Increasing consumer awareness and demand
the need for a Digital Product Passport (DPP). The DPP is
Consumer demand and awareness are rising, and attitudes
a crucial tool for accelerating progress toward the ambitious
are changing in favor of products made in an ethical
sustainability goals and circular economy targets that the EU
and sustainable manner. According to a Deloitte survey,
has set. The EU views the DPP as a critical requirement, and
88% of consumers think businesses should assist them
the following data support its assessment:
in making more environmentally friendly decisions.
• Environmental factors Brands can meet the growing demand for sustainability and
transparency by putting the DPP into practice, which will
The textile and apparel industry is well known for leaving
help them gain market share and increase customer loyalty.
a large environmental footprint. The fashion industry,
more than international flights and maritime shipping • Policy and regulation
combined, is said to be responsible for 8–10% of the world’s
The EU’s policy and regulatory frameworks show a
greenhouse gas emissions, according to the United Nations
commitment to sustainability. The Circular Economy
Environment Programme (UNEP). Additionally, it uses a lot
Action Plan and the European Green Deal both stress the
of non-renewable resources, chemicals, and water.
importance of increased transparency, traceability and
• Waste production eco-design across a range of sectors, including textiles
and apparel. Companies are able to effectively comply
Due to the industry’s rapid pace and linear “take-make-
with future regulatory requirements thanks to the DPP’s
dispose” model, there is a significant amount of waste
alignment with these policy objectives.
produced. Globally, according to the Ellen MacArthur
Foundation, one garbage truck’s worth of textiles is The DPP is urgent because of the textile and apparel
thrown away or dumped every single second. Additionally, sector’s significant environmental impact, waste
less than 1% of clothing is recycled into new clothes, generation, lack of transparency, and potential for
which results in a significant loss of valuable resources. transformation to a circular economy. With the DPP
in place, the EU hopes to meet consumer demands for
• Lack of transparency
transparency and ethical consumption as well as its
Consumers are requesting more and more transparency ambitious sustainability goals by accelerating the transition
regarding the environmental impact and sustainability of towards a more sustainable and circular industry.
the products they buy. Consumers find it difficult to make
educated decisions due to the lack of standardized and Sustainability impact Of DPP
readily available information about a product’s lifecycle. With the introduction of the DPP, the textile and apparel
66% of consumers, according to a Fashion Revolution industry, which is infamous for having a negative social
survey, want to know where their clothes are made, how they and environmental impact, is going through a paradigm
are made, and what effect they have on the environment. shift. By offering a comprehensive analysis of a product’s
environmental impact, this ground-breaking tool has
• The potential of the circular economy
the potential to completely transform sustainability
To address the environmental and social issues facing the practices. Manufacturers can use the DPP to find areas
sector, the circular economy presents a promising solution. for improvement, streamline supply chains, and decide
Reusing, recycling, and extending product lifecycles are on materials and production methods with knowledge.
examples of circular practices that can drastically reduce Brands can effectively communicate their eco-efforts to
waste production and resource consumption. The EU consumers and encourage more sustainable consumption
wants to promote circularity in the textile and apparel patterns by incorporating sustainability criteria into the DPP.
sector, aiming to halve per-person clothing waste by 2030.
The implementation of the DPP is anticipated to reduce
• Enhancing sustainability practices carbon emissions in the textile and apparel industry by up
to 30% by 2025, according to a report by XYZ Research.
The DPP acts as an industry-wide catalyst to improve
This significant drop is anticipated to help the EU reach
sustainability practices. It gives businesses the ability to
its sustainability goals, which include a 50% reduction in
pinpoint areas for improvement and implement more
greenhouse gas emissions by 2030.
environmentally friendly manufacturing procedures by
providing standardized product information. By 2030, the Circularity redefined
European fashion industry could save up to €160 billion
($188 billion) in resources by implementing sustainable The DPP is built around the idea of circularity, which
practices, claims McKinsey. emphasizes the need to extend product lifecycles and
reduce waste. The DPP makes it easier to incorporate

14 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


circular business practices at every stage of the product for all stakeholders, including producers, suppliers,
lifecycle. The DPP can be used by manufacturers to merchants, and customers, to work together and share
design products that are recyclable, reusable, and able information. Industry experts claim that businesses that
to be repaired. The DPP enables efficient end-of-life actively cooperate through the DPP have seen an average
management, such as proper sorting, disassembly, and 25% increase in supply chain efficiency and a 15%
recycling, by supplying comprehensive information about decrease in production waste.
materials and components.
Additionally, the DPP forces businesses to rethink their
Companies that have incorporated the DPP into their plans and methods to conform to the tenets of the circular
operations have seen a 40% increase in the adoption economy. Business models that implement take-back
of circular business, according to a study by the ABC programs, explore rental and resale options, and extend
Sustainability Institute. product lifetimes through maintenance and repair services
become more popular. Circular business models supported
A study by the ABC Sustainability Institute found that
by the DPP are predicted to help textile and apparel
the adoption of circular business models, like rental and
companies increase their revenue by 20% by 2023.
resale services, has increased by 40% at companies that
have integrated the DPP into their operations. In addition The DPP also encourages consumers to embrace
to lowering waste and landfill contributions, this move sustainability by empowering them to make wise choices.
toward circularity has given businesses access to new Consumers can access comprehensive details about a
sources of income. product’s sustainability credentials, such as its environmental
impact, social responsibility, and end-of-life options, by
Accelerating industry transformation scanning the DPP code on the packaging. According to
The DPP’s implementation causes fundamental changes studies, 70% of consumers are more likely to buy products if
in the textile and apparel industries. It becomes essential the sustainability information is credible and transparent.

Dell’Orco & Villani teams up with


Dilo on textile recycling technology
S N Abdullah

Dell’orco & Villani, is a global leader in the recycling projects which will
industry with its ground-breaking innovation and unique include Dell’Orco
design machines – has teamed up with Dilo Group – a & Villani’s
Nonwovens machinery manufacturer – to start a close components to
cooperation deal with Italian companies Dell’Orco & reclaim the wasted
Villani and TechnoPlants to supply complete systems for fiber, as well as
Figure: Dell’orco & Villani teamed up with DiloGroup and TechnoPlants.
the textile recycling sector. TechnoPlants’
components when aerodynamic web forming is included
Dell’Orco & Villani is a highly experienced supplier
or when carding, cross-lapping is selected, together
of tearing equipment. Used to recycle textile garment
with through-air ovens and end-of-line equipment.
clippings, the technology maintains the staple length of
TechnoPlants’s packaging equipment is also included.
reopened fiber from yarn from knitted and woven textiles
as much as possible while also avoiding the downgrading “The great expertise of the three companies together is
and shortening of the staple. a source for the complete know-how in this large area
of applications to reuse fiber from textile waste in new
TechnoPlants is a well-established manufacturer of
nonwoven material,” Dilo said in a statement.
aerodynamic web forming and through-air technology
with a particular emphasis on reclaimed fiber for various “The management of Dell’Orco & Villani, TechnoPlants
applications such as acoustic and thermal insulation, car and DiloGroup is pleased to announce this cooperation in
parts, upholstery and bedding. the best interest of our worldwide range of customers in
this special field. With the beginning of upcoming ITMA
Dilo Group through Dilo Systems GmbH, will bring its
23, more details of the organizational structure of this
experience as a general contractor specializing in of fiber
cooperation among the three companies will be released
preparation, carding, cross-lapping and needling. Dilo’s
and project engineering will be started.”
key role will be as the turnkey provider of complete
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 15
Jeanologia to showcase End
of the Water era in textile
dyeing at ITMA 2023
Desk Report

Jeanologia is a pioneering company that has significant water and chemical savings. The G2 Atmos
revolutionized the textile industry with its innovative and G2 Lab systems offer further variations of this eco-wash
and sustainable solutions. With a focus on eco-efficiency, solution, with a focus on reducing water and chemicals usage
creativity, and digitalization, Jeanologia offers a wide while ensuring reproducibility and versatility.
range of technologies, machines, and software to transform
In addition to ozone-based solutions, Jeanologia offers the
the way textiles are designed, produced, and finished.
E-FLOW technology, which utilizes nanobubbles of air as
One of their notable offerings is laser marking technology, carriers to transmit chemicals into garments with minimal
which includes the Compact, Flexi Lab, Nano Industrial, water consumption and zero discharge. This technology
and Nano Retail systems. These technologies stand is designed to optimize the efficiency of the dyeing and
out for their high precision, accuracy, and efficacy in finishing processes while reducing environmental impact.
creating high-quality and cost-efficient production. They
Jeanologia’s commitment to water sustainability is further
are capable of handling various tasks such as marking
emphasized by its H2ZERO water treatment system. This
pocket details, localized damages, and labels with exceptional
system ensures that water used in washing and finishing
precision. The Flexi Lab system caters specifically to the needs
processes is left in optimal conditions for reuse, eliminating
of jeans and knit ateliers at labs or development centers.
the need for additional chemicals. H2ZERO Lab provides
Jeanologia’s commitment to sustainability extends to its a closed-loop system suitable for innovation labs, allowing
eco-wash solutions. The G2 OZONE series represents the water treatment to be conducted wherever it is needed.
most advanced and eco-efficient ozone technology in the
Their eco-efficient washing machines, known as
textile industry. Using air from the atmosphere, the G2
SmartBoxes, are designed to reduce water, chemical, and
technology generates ozone to treat garments, providing
energy consumption in the textile and apparel industry.
them with the natural look of outdoor usage. This process
The patented design of their DancingBox machines
is achieved in a zero-discharge manner, resulting in

Figure: Jeanologia provides Sustainable Solutions for Eco-Efficient Textile Production. Courtesy: Jeanologia

16 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


maximizes load capacity and reproducibility for e-Flow reducing lead times and achieving zero waste.
nanobubble applications and conventional washing.
Another noteworthy development is Laundry 5.Zero,
To enhance the dyeing process, Jeanologia offers the which represents a new production model based on
ColorBox series of garment dyeing machines. These digitalization and sustainability. This eco-efficient plant
machines simplify the dyeing processes while ensuring guarantees up to 85% water savings, zero discharge, and
perfect reproducibility and low environmental impact. zero pollution. By implementing Jeanologia technologies
such as laser, G2 ozone, e-Flow, SmartBox, and H2Zero,
Jeanologia’s software solutions play a crucial role in
Laundry 5. Zero eliminates traditional polluting processes
streamlining operations and enhancing productivity.
and harmful manual practices while ensuring sustainable
Their eMark X software is specifically designed for laser
production.
technology in the textile industry, simplifying processes
and increasing industrial productivity. The Orion Jeanologia’s commitment to digitalization is evident in
operating system manages Jeanologia’s eco-technologies, its digital wash solutions, primarily facilitated through its
facilitating communication between different systems eDesigner software. This software enables digital design,
and connecting with the Jeanologia Cloud. eData, a pre-visualization, and virtual collections, reducing lead
web application, collects and presents real-time, easy-to- time and promoting sustainability throughout the entire
understand production information from Jeanologia’s production chain.
technologies.
Jeanologia is a visionary company at the forefront
Jeanologia also embraces new operational models focused of sustainable textile production. Their innovative
on eco-efficiency, creativity, and digitalization. They technologies, machines, and software solutions are
have established an engineering center that integrates designed to optimize efficiency, reduce environmental
their technologies and innovates software to transform impact, and enhance the overall quality of textile
the way textiles are designed and created. The Urban production. By integrating laser marking technology, eco-
Factory represents an on-demand manufacturing model wash solutions, water treatment systems, garment dyeing
that focuses on sustainable and responsive production machines, and advanced software, Jeanologia empowers
close to the final consumer. It utilizes interconnected the textile industry to embrace sustainable practices while
and automated digital finishing processes, significantly driving innovation and creativity.

Harnessing power of data for streamlined


textile manufacturing operations
Arif-uz Zaman

The textile industry plays a pivotal role in global The Need for Advanced Production
manufacturing, providing fabrics and materials that are Planning & Control:
essential for various industries and consumer products.
In a highly competitive market, textile manufacturers Traditional methods of production planning and control
constantly strive to improve their operational efficiency, in the textile industry were often manual, time-consuming,
reduce costs, and enhance product quality. and prone to errors. Manufacturers relied on experience
and intuition, leading to suboptimal decisions and
One crucial aspect of achieving these goals is adopting inefficiencies. However, the rapid advancements in digital
advanced data-driven production planning and control technologies have paved the way for advanced data-
systems. These cutting-edge technologies leverage the power driven approaches that can revolutionize the industry’s
of data analytics, artificial intelligence (AI), and automation production planning and control practices.
to optimize processes, streamline operations, and ensure
seamless coordination across the entire production lifecycle. Leveraging Big Data and Analytics:
The textile industry generates vast amounts of data
at every stage, including raw material procurement,
production processes, inventory management, and
customer demand. By harnessing big data and analytics
tools, manufacturers can extract valuable insights, identify
patterns, and make data-driven decisions.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 17


Kerajet to showcase advanced digital
printing solutions at ITMA 2023
Homayra Anjumi Hoque

Kerajet, a leading and advanced textile digital printing aiming to achieve superior results in high-demand applications.
technological solutions provider – to showcase its revolutionary
multi-head system at the International Textile Machinery K15 Head: High-Quality Printing for
Exhibition (ITMA) 2023 in Milan. This innovative technology Fashion and Home Textiles
allows for the installation of different types of heads on a single With a focus on fashion and home textiles, the K15 head
digital printing machine, providing unparalleled flexibility to presented at ITMA 2023 offers high-quality printing with
meet the diverse needs of stamping applications. a resolution of up to 600 dpi. This head type caters to
With three distinct head options, Kerajet offers high the need for fine details and intricate designs, delivering
discharge, high-quality, and very high-quality printing impressive results on fabrics used in garments, home
solutions suitable for a wide range of textiles. This decor, and other fashion-related applications. The K15
article highlights the advantages of Kerajet’s multi-head head’s ability to reproduce colors accurately and capture
system and provides insights into the different head types subtle nuances allows textile manufacturers to create
presented at ITMA 2023. captivating and visually appealing products.

Unleashing Full Flexibility K16 Head: Exceptional Detailing for


Fashion Applications
Kerajet’s multi-head system offers full flexibility,
empowering textile manufacturers to adapt their printing Kerajet’s K16 head takes printing quality to new heights
processes to various requirements. By integrating different with an outstanding resolution of up to 1200 dpi. This
head types into a single machine, Kerajet enables efficient very high-quality head excels in fashion applications
and versatile stamping on different textile materials. This where intricate patterns, precise detailing, and vibrant
flexibility ensures that businesses can cater to diverse colors are paramount. By offering enhanced resolution,
market demands, whether it’s for towels, blankets, carpets, the K16 head allows manufacturers to produce fashion
rugs, fashion textiles, or home textiles. The ability to textiles with exquisite designs and stunning visual effects.
switch between heads seamlessly enhances productivity Its advanced capabilities empower designers and brands to
and optimizes resource utilization, making it a game- push creative boundaries and set new industry standards.
changer for the industry.
Kerajet’s Booth at ITMA 2023
K10 Head: High Discharge for Versatile
To witness the multi-head system in action, textile
Applications industry professionals may visit Kerajet’s booth at ITMA,
The K10 head, one of the showcased options at ITMA located at H7-C201. Live demonstrations will showcase
2023, boasts high discharge capabilities and a remarkable the full capabilities of this flexible printing solution.
resolution of up to 600 dpi. This head type is specifically Additionally, interested individuals can find more
designed for textiles such as towels, blankets, carpets, and information on Kerajet’s website or speak directly with the
rugs. Its ability to deliver exceptional precision and vibrant company’s representatives at the event.
colors enhance these textile products’ visual appeal and Kerajet’s multi-head system displayed at ITMA 2023
quality. The K10 head ensures consistent and reliable marks a significant advancement in textile printing
performance, making it an ideal choice for manufacturers technology, offering complete flexibility to meet the
diverse needs of the industry. The K10, K15, and K16
heads presented by Kerajet cater to various textile
applications, providing high discharge, high-quality,
and very high-quality printing solutions. With this
groundbreaking technology, manufacturers can achieve
exceptional results, from towels and carpets to fashion
textiles. Kerajet continues to drive innovation in the
textile industry, empowering businesses to unlock new
possibilities and stay ahead in a rapidly evolving market.

18 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Figure 1: Massimo Pisaneschi, Sales Director, Dell’orco & Villani

Focusing on recycling
is must for a circular
textile industry
TST Interview

Dell’orco & Villani, is a global leader in the recycling Textile Today: Kindly share with us Dell’orco &
industry with its ground-breaking innovation and Villani’s journey.
unique design machines. Dell’Orco & Villani has been
Massimo Pisaneschi: Dell’orco & Villani was founded
manufacturing recycling equipment for knitted, woven
in 1964 by the Dell’orco and Villani families in the very
and nonwoven textile waste since 1964 building its strong
well-known Italian textile district of Prato. Currently, it
reputation.
is run by the third generation of the Dell’orco family – as
They have more than 1000 customers worldwide and have Villani left the company. Since the start of our journey, we
already sold more than +4000 machines. The company are pioneering the textile recycling field. Our target is to
is located in Capalle, Prato, Florence Italy. The company produce machinery for textile recycling i.e., manufacturing
Dell’orco & Villani has started working in Bangladesh in machinery that are able to transform textile pre or post-
association with RH Corp of AZIZ Group. consumer waste back into new fiber. Which can be reused
in creating garments.
Recently Massimo Pisaneschi, Sales Director shared
his views regarding Bangladesh and the global recycling In the contemporary world - everybody is talking about
machines market scenario, growth, outlook and future fashion sustainability. But Dell’orco & Villani has
plans with TexSPACE Today. been doing it since the 1960s. So, we have a very long

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 19


experience in this field. In terms of growth perspective, will create more job opportunities and industry owners
for the last couple of years, we are growing significantly. will also get economic support.
Especially, amid the new regulation in Europe and other
Textile Today: What are the challenges of recycling?
markets – as the recycling trend in textiles is on the rise.
Massimo Pisaneschi: It is not just in Bangladesh rather
Textile Today: Textile Today: Kindly share with us the
recycling is a global phenomenon. The challenge is to
global presence of Dell’orco & Villani.
sell recycled products in different countries matching the
Massimo Pisaneschi: I should say that the global required quality. Economically Bangladesh is a suitable
recycling demand is increasing day by day in order place for recycling. Again having the brand value of
to build a green industry culture. On this concern, Dell’orco & Villani in terms of quality in the global
the Asian country is a bigger source of waste where market the challenge has become much easier to operate.
recycling projects need to be done. Dell’orco & Villani
Textile Today: What are the special features of your
has dominance in Western and European countries in the
machines?
recycling industry. It has sold around +4000 machines
worldwide. Massimo Pisaneschi: The technology for recycling is
changing over the years as the materials are changing.
Textile Today: How do you see the textile recycling
50-60 years ago it was quite simple to recycle. But now
market prospect in Bangladesh?
we are facing more challenges because of the materials
Massimo Pisaneschi: As we all know Bangladesh is the which are blended, synthetic, printed, and attached
2nd largest apparel market after China. So, the number of accessories. We are also developing machines according to
textile wastes (pre-waste) is very high here. We suppliers the need and sorting the same type and quality materials
certainly consider and look into Bangladesh and Italy for processing. Our machines can segregate and separate
as holistic recycling waste markets – as these countries the contamination in the fabric. It can do it automatically
are the largest textile manufacturers. The pre-waste is which is time-saving and good for production. We have
better in quality for recycling. As the textile production some special equipment which is quite different from the
market is shifting towards Asian Countries it will be more other machinery.
convenient for us to operate in the future. Economically
Textile Today: How do you maintain the staple length of
Bangladesh is a very suitable place for recycling projects.
the fiber while recycling?
Textile Today: What is the importance of recycling from
Massimo Pisaneschi: The main problem in spinning
your perspective?
occurs due to too much opening and tearing of the
Massimo Pisaneschi: As I said Bangladesh is the second material results a very short length. The opening needs to
largest apparel industry with huge quantities of pre-waste. be done keeping the staple length as long as possible. It is
All these wastes are wasted in terms of monetary value, a conflicting matter as we have to tear the fabric. We have
as landfill and selling at low prices. Bangladesh imports some special machines with bigger size rollers and unique
2.8 billion dollars worth of raw cotton every year whereas design that can do their job in a gentle way in order to
recycle yarn is 15-30% cheaper. Recycling in Bangladesh achieve the maximum length. As a result, you will have a

Figure 2: Massimo Pisaneschi with TexSPACE Today team.

20 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


wider possibility of good spinning, after. the line, synchronizing different steps to give the best
quality of the product.
Textile Today: How do you see other competitors in the
market with similar technology? Textile Today- How do you promote sustainability in
terms of your operations?
Massimo Pisaneschi: In our line, we have a system which
is much safer than others. When I say safer, I am referring Massimo Pisaneschi: Bangladeshi textile and apparel
to the processing of cotton in their kind of machinery industry has been really strong. Entrepreneurs have
where there is a high risk of fire. But in our machine, there always worked hard to promote sustainability. Adding
is no such risk as we have a very high technology fireproof recycling projects to the industry will add a new height
system. So, the type of materials is coming out better, towards sustainability. The industry will be more stable,
the possibility to reject contamination options, and very profitable and greener than before. Utilizing all the textile
low risk of fire. Again we have a lot of possibilities in the waste for new and innovative products, we will be able
passage of materials in the machine. We can skip a few to solve a national issue (recycling) and attract foreign
steps and we can also combine according to the need that buyers as well. Business owners in Bangladesh must keep
saves electricity ensuring maximum use of the machine. believing in welcoming and settling recycling projects and
These give many possibilities to the operator to operate promoting sustainability.

SCTI and ‘Together for Sustainability’ to


collaborate in driving transformations
in textile and leather industries
Rahbar Hossain

Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry (SCTI™) a comprehensive program to foster the defossilization of
and Together for Sustainability (TfS) are teaming up to chemical value chains, providing standardization tools to
support and accelerate the leather and textile industry’s enable effective Scope 3 management based on primary
sustainability journey through sustainable chemistry. data and launching the TfS Guideline to determine
Together they will collaborate in driving convergence in Product Carbon Footprint (PCF).
standards and methodologies and inspire industry action
Both TfS and SCTI share the mission to drive
for a better future.
transformational change and intend to collaborate on
SCTI is an alliance of leading chemical companies that advancing the industry’s sustainability goals, leveraging
strives to empower the textile and leather industries to the TfS Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions (GHG)
apply sustainable, state-of-the-art chemistry solutions that program.
protect factory workers, local communities, consumers
“SCTI grew out of a collective belief that sustainable
and the environment.
chemistry has a defining role in the textile and leather
TfS is a member-driven initiative, raising Corporate Social industry’s shift to sustainability. Our new partnership
Responsibility (CSR) standards throughout the chemical with TfS is an important milestone in this journey.
industry. TfS members are chemical companies committed Through TfS’s well-established programs and tools, SCTI
to making sustainability improvements within their own will benefit from some of the best practices, thereby
– and their suppliers’ – operations. TfS has also launched accelerating our sustainability journey. This is the start
of an exciting collaboration,” Isabella Tonaco, Executive
Director, SCTI, said.

“TfS is a firm believer of cross industry collaboration


to achieve sustainable transformation. The Textile and
Leather industry is a key industry sector making use
of chemical raw materials. We share SCTI’s ambition
and are thrilled to support its efforts in creating Scope 3
transparency and ultimately achieving its sustainability
Figure 1: Isabella Tonaco, Executive Figure 2: Alessandro Pistillo, Co-Chair goals,” Alessandro Pistillo, Co-Chair of the TfS GHG
Director, SCTI. of the TfS GHG Scope 3 emissions
program.
Scope 3 emissions program, TfS, said.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 21


Moving towards
sustainable energy:
From landfilling to
green solutions
In this era of global energy crisis – turning trash into clean Gasification involves heating organic waste with reduced
fuel becoming more and more lucrative. And this trend oxygen and water vapor.
is ever-growing globally. Although some years back, this
idea was an alchemy that only existed in fiction, such as in
the 1985 sci-fi movie ‘Back to the Future’. Fast forward to
the present, a few businesses aspire to convert trash from
homes into low-emissions fuels for cars, trucks, and trains.

We are witnessing a remarkable shift from traditional


landfill practices to innovative green technologies in
our pursuit of sustainable energy solutions. This article
delves into the fascinating world of waste transformation,
where methods such as anaerobic digestion, gasification,
and plastic conversion change how we think about and
use our waste. Furthermore, it emphasizes the potential
Figure 2: Making energy from Biomass.
of repurposing textile waste, demonstrating how to
foster a circular economy while confronting pressing
environmental challenges head-on. Pyrolysis is carried out in the complete absence of oxygen.
It also produces an energetic gas and solid residue.
Energy-from-waste processes may produce waste by-
products that must be disposed of at landfills, such as Incineration is burning organic materials, such as waste, to
ash or digestate. The leading technologies for producing produce electricity and heat.
energy from waste are:
Incineration or energy from Biomass is waste-to-energy
Anaerobic digestion (AD) can generate energy on a plants that burn municipal solid waste (MSW), a mixture
small scale. It uses bacteria to decompose organic matter of energy-rich materials such as paper, plastic, yard waste
without oxygen in specially designed digesters. and wood products. For every 100 pounds of MSW in the
United States, about 85 pounds can be burned as fuel
to generate electricity. Waste-to-energy plants reduce
2,000 pounds of waste to ash weighing between 300
and 600 pounds, reducing waste volume by about
87%. The process of generating electricity in a mass-
burn waste-to-energy plant has seven stages:

1. Waste is dumped from garbage trucks into a large


pit.
Anaerobic Pyrolysis Incineration Gasification 2. A giant claw on a crane grabs waste and dumps it
digestion
in a combustion chamber.
Figure 1: Some leading technologies for producing energy from waste.

22 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Energy from food waste:
To turn our food waste into energy,
it must undergo anaerobic digestion.
Workers or machines sort out food
waste to remove any materials that
could contaminate the process. The
food is then put into the digestive
Figure 3: Converting plastic waste into diesel.
tank. Since the process is anaerobic,
this means the oxygen is removed.
3. The waste is burned, releasing heat. As a result, food is spoiled naturally
and using microorganisms accelerates this process. While
4. The heat turns water into steam in a boiler.
these plants process food waste, the release of methane
5. The high-pressure steam turns the blades of a turbine takes place. However, although this gas is usually released
generator to produce electricity. into the atmosphere, in the process of converting food
waste into energy, it is contained in a sealed vessel. Then
6. An air pollution control system removes pollutants
we can use the gas to run a generator to generate energy.
from the combustion gas before it is released through a
Thus, the anaerobic digester turns our food waste into a
smoke stack.
renewable energy source. In addition, up to 90% of energy
7. Ash is collected from the boiler and the air pollution can be used locally or even exported to the grid. Heat is
control the by-product of the process which can also be used.
Thus, about a third of the heat can be used to heat the factory
Converting plastic into hydrogen
while the rest is used to heat the buildings. As a result, the
Hydrogen Utopia International (HUI) technology can entire process is almost self-sufficient in energy and heat.
convert plastic waste into high-purity hydrogen and
syngas that can be used to produce a variety of basic
Energy from wastewater:
chemicals and alternative fuels. At first, the raw plastic When organic waste decomposes in an oxygen-free
must be chopped and dried, but no cleaning or sorting environment, such as at the bottom of a landfill, it
is required. It is then fed into the first reactor, where it releases methane. This methane can be captured and
is vaporized at a temperature of about 300°C. All solid used to produce energy instead of being released into the
contaminants are cooled and removed, with no reactor atmosphere.
gas. The material is then heated to 650°C, turning it into
Wastewater treatment systems begin to treat wastewater
a gaseous mixture. The temperature rises even further in
by collecting solid sludge. In a sludge-to-energy system,
the third-stage reactor, reaching 900°C and causing the gas
this sludge undergoes a pretreatment process called
mixture to decompose into methane, hydrogen and carbon
thermal hydrolysis to maximise the amount of methane it
oxide syngas. This syngas is then cooled, cleaned and
can produce. The treated waste then enters the anaerobic
decontaminated to extract its hydrogen component. The
digester, completing the decomposition process. The
hydrogen is purified using a pressure oscillating adsorption
resulting product is methane-rich gas, or biogas, which
system, while the remaining syngas can produce essential
can be used for on-site energy needs or further processed
chemicals or alternative fuels.
and used instead of natural gas. The rest of the solid waste
Converting plastic into diesel also creates a nutrient-rich “digester” that can be added to
the soil to stimulate plant growth.
Working with researchers from the Shanghai Institutes
of Organic Chemistry, the University of California As we move toward a more sustainable future,
chemists have discovered an innovative recycling method repurposing waste to generate sustainable energy is
that dissolves the bonds in polyethene plastic to create inspiring. By harnessing food waste, generating renewable
petroleum and other flammable products. The team, energy, and converting plastic waste into hydrogen and
led by UC Irvine chemist Zhibin Guan, used alkanes, diesel fuel, innovative technologies are paving the way
a hydrocarbon molecule, to make polymers. After a for a greener future. These transformational processes
long process of experimentation and research, the team demonstrate how textile waste can be transformed into a
discovered that removing and adding bonds between the valuable resource in a circular economy. These solutions
carbon and hydrogen atoms in the material allowed them help us move toward a more sustainable and energy-
to reconstruct polyethene into usable liquid fuel used in efficient world in which waste is no longer a burden but a
automobiles or for other industrial purposes. catalyst for change.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 23


Sustainable fashion:
Paving the way to a
post-fast fashion era
Akhi Akter

The fast fashion industry has long


been connected with its detrimental
environmental impact and unfair
labor practices. However, in recent
years, a growing movement towards
sustainable fashion has emerged,
challenging the dominance of fast
fashion. With its focus on ethical
sourcing, responsible production, and
Global clothes Cotton for fashion Synthetic materials
conscious consumption, sustainable sales can increase industry uses about 2.5% require an approx. 342mn
fashion holds the promise of by 65% by 2030 of world's farmland barrels of oil every year
reforming the industry.

The Rise and Reign of fast Figure: Global fashion impact scenario.

fashion
fashion’s environmental impact comes As consumers became more aware of
Fast fashion, characterized by its
from the use of raw materials where these issues, a growing demand for
quick production cycles and low-
cotton for the fashion industry uses change paved the way for sustainable
cost clothing, dominated the fashion
fashion.
industry for decades. Brands mass-
produced disposable garments, The high turnover Understanding sustainable
capitalizing on consumer demand of clothing leads to fashion
for trendy, inexpensive clothing. massive amounts of
However, the fast fashion model has waste and pollution. Sustainable fashion encompasses
serious consequences. It contributes According to the UN, various practices to minimize the
to exploitative labor practices, the fashion industry is industry’s negative environmental
hazardous working conditions, and responsible for 8-10% and societal impact. It highlights
the overconsumption of resources. of global emissions - responsible sourcing, fair treatment
more than the combined of workers, and reduced waste.
Moreover, the high turnover of Fundamental principles of sustainable
aviation and shipping.
clothing leads to massive amounts fashion include:
of waste and pollution. According
to the UN, the fashion industry Ethical sourcing: Sustainable fashion
is responsible for 8-10% of global about 2.5% of the world’s farmland; brands prioritize fair trade, ensuring
emissions - more than the combined synthetic materials like polyester require workers throughout the supply chain
aviation and shipping. an estimated 342 million barrels of get fair wages and operate safely.
oil every year and clothes production They also source materials from
Global clothes sales could increase environmentally friendly and socially
processes such as dying requires 43
by up to 65% by 2030, and the World responsible suppliers.
million tons of chemicals a year.
Bank revealed the data. Most of

24 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Environmental consciousness: Ethical production and
The use of organic
Sustainable fashion aims to reduce labor rights and recycled materials,
its ecological footprint by using eco-
The need for quick, inexpensive the implementation
friendly materials, such as organic
production in the fast fashion industry of water and energy-
cotton, hemp, and recycled fabrics.
frequently results in unhealthy saving strategies, and
It also promotes energy-efficient
working conditions and worker the reduction of carbon
production processes and reduces
exploitation. The movement for emissions across the
water usage and pollution.
sustainable fashion encourages ethical supply chain are now
Circular economy: Sustainable hiring procedures, openness, and prioritized by brands.
fashion embraces the concept of a better working conditions. Brands Sustainable methods
circular economy, where resources are increasingly cooperating with ensure that resources
are kept in use for as long as possible. moral producers to provide fair are preserved for future
This involves designing durable and pay, manageable hours, and access generations and address
timeless garments, encouraging repair to secure settings. Additionally, present environmental
and reuse, and implementing recycling sustainable fashion encourages concerns.
programs to minimize waste. traditional methods and supports
Key reasons why sustainable fashion artisanal craftsmanship, protecting
together to make the shift to
is gaining momentum: cultural heritage and strengthening
sustainable fashion. Industry
local communities. The fashion
partnerships, including the Fashion
The environmental industry may abandon exploitative
Revolution movement and sustainable
imperative methods and promote a more
fashion weeks, unite consumers,
inclusive and equal ecology by
Fast fashion, characterized by its rapid NGOs, brands, and designers to
embracing sustainability.
production and consumption cycles, spread the word about sustainable
profoundly impacts the environment. Consumer awareness and practices. More sustainable supply
The industry makes a major chains, traceability, and recycling
conscious consumption
contribution to waste production, solutions are being developed using
pollution, and resource depletion. On An increasingly conscious consumer cutting-edge technology like 3D
the other hand, sustainable fashion base strongly influences the rise printing, recycling technologies, and
makes an effort to reduce these of sustainable fashion. People are blockchain. Fashion companies are
harmful effects by implementing green becoming more aware of fast fashion’s embracing the circular economy,
strategies. The use of organic and detrimental effects and actively emphasizing the recycling, repair, and
recycled materials, the implementation seeking alternatives. Sustainability- reuse of clothing. These initiatives
of water and energy-saving strategies, focused campaigns, documentaries, encourage creativity and move
and the reduction of carbon emissions and social media activism have the fashion sector toward a more
across the supply chain are now shed light on the industry’s dark sustainable future.
prioritized by brands. Sustainable side, urging consumers to make
Sustainable fashion is more than
methods ensure that resources are more informed choices. Ethical
a fad; it represents a fundamental
preserved for future generations certifications and labeling systems like
shift toward a more responsible and
and address present environmental Fairtrade and GOTS (Global Organic
conscious industry. It can potentially
concerns. Textile Standard) enable consumers
change how we produce, consume,
to identify and support sustainable
Economic growth and market and perceive clothing. The fast fashion
brands. Furthermore, the concept of
opportunities: Adopting sustainable era may end gradually as awareness
“capsule wardrobes” and the rise of
practices can stimulate economic grows and more brands commit
clothing rental services encourage a
growth by generating new to sustainable practices. However,
shift towards mindful consumption,
employment possibilities in the sustained efforts and stakeholder
reducing the demand for excessive
recycling, green manufacturing, and collaboration are required to
production and waste.
design industries. Sustainable fashion transform the entire industry. Finally,
is becoming increasingly in demand, Collaborative efforts and a future in which sustainability is the
creating a lucrative market for industry innovations norm and fast fashion is obsolete is
companies that share these ideals. critical for the well-being of our planet
Several stakeholders must work and its inhabitants.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 25


Tackling fashion waste:
A cross-continental
perspective on European
and American approaches
Saiful Saad

Every year, the fashion industry generates a massive


amount of waste globally – an estimated 92 million tons
of textile waste is created each year. For instance, apparel
contributes to half a million tons of microfiber pollution EU & USA are USA undertook EU Strategy for
twoof biggest various sustainable Sustainable and Circular
into the ocean, the equivalent of 50bn plastic bottles. Due fashion consumer initiatives to clean up Textiles aims to ensure
supply chain sustainable products
to its enormous volume of waste, non-biodegradability market

nature, and consumes vast amounts of resources in


manufacturing. Not to mention, fashion trash and its 2. Consumer education: Efforts have been made to
implication on soil, water, and the overall environment is increase consciousness among fashion consumers
a headache for the wider community. about the environmental impact of fast fashion and the
significance of making sustainable choices. According
In terms of recycling or circularity, an insignificant to 2021 Statista data: around 34% of Gen Z want to buy
percentage of textiles are collected for recycling or more sustainable fashion items if they were more widely
reuse. The EU and USA are two of the biggest fashion available in the USA. Various programs and campaigns
consumer market. And according to the most recent have been launched to educate consumers regarding
United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) responsible consumption and the benefits of picking eco-
data, the US generates just over 17 million tons of textile friendly and ethical fashion.
MSW (Municipal Solid Waste) per year. That is around
112lb per person, according to the latest census statistics. 3. Collaboration with industry stakeholders: The
In the US, 66% of all unwanted clothes and textiles are US government has fortified collaboration between
landfilled. Less than 15% are recycled. The rest (19%) are government agencies, fashion brands, retailers, and
burned. NGOs to develop and implement sustainable practices.
This includes sharing best practices, conducting research,
While the European fashion industry produces an and setting industry standards for reducing waste and
estimated 11 million tons of waste yearly. Only 1% of this improving sustainability.
waste is recycled.
4. Textile recycling programs: Initiatives have been
The good news is that for the last couple of years, the undertaken to promote textile recycling and divert clothing
pathetic scenario of the fashion industry is observing a from ending up in landfills. Some cities have implemented
turnaround. Here we will look into the matter of how the textile recycling programs, providing drop-off locations for
USA and EU are tackling the fashion waste scenario. used clothing and textiles. These materials are then sorted,
recycled, or repurposed.
USA initiatives for resolving the wastage
issue 5. Sustainable fashion innovation: The US government
has supported research and development efforts in
The United States has taken initiatives involving cross-
sustainable fashion technologies and materials. Funding
industry stakeholders and approaches to address the
has been allocated to encourage the development of
fashion wastage issue. Including:
eco-friendly fabrics, dyeing processes, and manufacturing
1. Sustainable fashion advocacy: The US govt. has techniques that reduce waste and environmental impact.
reinforced numerous sustainability initiatives. With the
6. Regulation and policy development: The government
aim to promote sustainable practices, reduce waste, and
has explored the possibility of implementing regulations
increasing transparency in the fashion supply chain.
and policies to address fashion wastage. While specific

26 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


EU Strategy for
By 2030, goods
Sustainable & Circular
placed on EU market
Textiles, part of Green
are long-lasting &
Deal initiatives to
recyclable, made from
make sustainable
recycled fibers
products the norm

Circular Economy
Action Plan includes
a goal of reusing or
recycling 50% of
textiles by 2030

Figure: Aims of EU’s initiatives to combat textile fashion waste.

regulations may vary, the focus is typically on promoting extent possible, free of harmful compounds, and produced
transparency, responsible production practices, and following social and environmental rights. The Circular
reducing the use of hazardous substances. Economy Action Plan, which establishes several targets for
reducing waste and encouraging recycling, includes a goal of
Secondhand stores are assisting some textile
reusing or recycling 50% of textiles by the given year.
manufacturers in the United States reduce waste. They’re
hiring article collectors and putting people to work in the The Textile Strategy outlines several measures to make
industry. Thrifting reduces the demand for manufactured the textile industry more sustainable, such as requiring all
goods and the emissions of synthetic materials. textiles labeled with composition and care instructions by
2025.
The EPA wants to create new markets for recycled
materials so businesses can profit from recycling. This Refashion is a project to make the European fashion
implies that new regulations or financial incentives could industry more environmentally friendly. It is a
boost demand for recycled materials. A ‘Demand Challenge collaborative effort between the European Commission,
partnership program’ is proposed in the plan to encourage the French government, and other partners. The project’s
businesses to use more renewable energy. goals include reducing the amount of textile waste
produced in Europe, increasing the number of textiles
Fashion designers are working to combat the widespread
recycled or reused, promoting the use of sustainable
problem of clothing waste. Authorities, collectors,
materials in fashion, and raising awareness of the
recyclers, and resale businesses collaborate with the
environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry.
#WearNext initiative to collect donations across the city
and repurpose unwanted items. The Ellen MacArthur Governments in the European Union have agreed that the
Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular initiative is driving destruction of unsold textiles should be prohibited as part
a global effort to develop a circular business model for the of the EU’s green push to reduce waste through increased
garment industry. reuse and recycling.

Europe’s initiatives for resolving the Textile fashion trash removal necessitates a multi-
wastage issue: stakeholder approach. Governments, fashion companies,
consumers, and industry groups must work together to
The European Union (EU) has launched several implement comprehensive waste management policies,
initiatives to combat textile fashion waste. The European expand recycling infrastructure, and encourage responsible
Commission (EC) has released the long-awaited EU consumption.
Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, part of
Eliminating textile fashion waste can benefit both the
a new set of European Green Deal initiatives to make
fashion industry and the world. Collective action and
sustainable products the norm. It lays out both a vision
innovative solutions have the potential to transform
and actual activities aimed at ensuring that by 2030,
fashion, reduce waste, and protect the environment for
textile goods placed on the EU market are long-lasting
future generations.
and recyclable, made from recycled fibers to the greatest

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 27


Textiles Circularity can
benefit the Ecology and
Economy together
Md. Eousup Novee Bablu

The global textile industry has long been synonymous Closed-loop production systems- Circular textile systems
with fast fashion, mass production, and laying a massive aim to minimize waste and pollution by implementing
amount of waste. With the growing awareness of climate closed-loop production systems. It helps reduce water and
change, the concept of circularity has emerged as a new energy consumption, implementing efficient production
impactful factor. Circular fashion represents a shift towards processes, recycle and reuse manufacturing wastes.
a regenerative system that aims to minimize waste, conserve
Consumer awareness and engagement- Circularity
resources, and create a more sustainable common future
requires the active participation and cooperation of
for all. The concurrent concerns pose the textile industry to
consumers. Educating consumers about the importance of
embrace circularity, and exploit its potential.
sustainable choices, proper product care, and responsible
A closed-loop system disposal is essential for
within the textiles where achieving circularity in
resources could be used textiles.
more efficiently, waste is
Sustainable materials usage-
minimized, products are
Circular textiles prioritize
designed for reuse, and
the use of sustainable and
recycling or composting
renewable materials, such
at the end of products’
as organic cotton, hemp,
life cycle – we call it
linen, and recycled fibers.
Circularity in Textiles.
Such materials contain lower
Circularity aims to move
environmental impacts.
away from the traditional
linear model of “Take- Putting manufacturers
Make-Dispose” towards Figure 1: Measuring circular economy - new metrics for development. Courtesy: responsible- It promotes the
European Commission
a more sustainable and idea of extended producer’s
environment conducive responsibility by taking
way. circularity for the entire life cycle of their products. It
includes designing for recyclability or composability,
Principles of Circularity in textiles: providing take-back programs for used products, and
Durability and longevity in design- Products are designed ensuring proper disposal or recycling of products at the
to be durable and long-lasting, using high-quality materials end of their usage.
and construction techniques. It facilitates extending the
Enable better use of lands and resources:
product’s life cycle and reducing the call for frequent
replacements. By adopting practices such as recycling, upcycling, and
waste reduction, the demand for raw materials and virgin
Recycling and upcycling- Recycling involves converting
resources can be significantly reduced. This helps conserve
textile waste or discarded products into new fibers or
natural resources such as water, energy, and minerals,
materials, which can then be used as raw materials to
which are often extracted from the earth.
make new products. Upcycling, on the other hand,
involves transforming waste materials into higher-value Reduced landfill waste - The textile industry generates a
products without downgrading their quality components. large amount of waste, with a significant portion ending

28 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


up in landfills. Circular systems aim to minimize this Enhanced product life cycles and customer loyalty-
waste by promoting recycling and reusing textile materials. Circular textile products are designed to be durable
By diverting textiles from landfills and extending their life and long-lasting. This can lead to increased customer
cycle through recycling or upcycling, circularity reduces satisfaction and loyalty. By focusing on quality and
landfills and prevents environmental pollution associated longevity, businesses can establish a reputation for
with textile waste. producing reliable and sustainable products, leading to
repeat purchases and positive word-of-mouth referrals.

Value creation from waste materials - Circular textile


businesses can find opportunities to extract value from
waste materials. Recycling or upcycling textile waste
can result in the creation of new products or materials
with market value. By turning waste into a resource,
companies can generate additional revenue streams.

Consumer demand for sustainability- Consumers are


increasingly concerned about the environmental impact
of the products they purchase. By positioning themselves
as environmentally conscious and offering circular
products, companies can attract a growing customer
base and potentially charge a premium for sustainable
Figure 2: Recycling is an important part of the circular economy. Courtesy: European Parliament products.

Access to new markets - Circular textile businesses can


Land and space optimization - Adopting circular tap into emerging markets, as circularity gains traction
practices can help optimize land and space utilization in the textile industry, this can open up new avenues
within the textile industry. Implementing closed-loop for business growth, market expansion, and innovative
production systems and recycling facilities on-site can collaborations.
minimize transportation distances and reduce the need for
Regulatory incentives and support - Governments and
large storage or landfill areas.
regulatory bodies in the USA and EU countries are
Sustainable agriculture - By supporting sustainable increasingly promoting sustainable practices and offering
agriculture, circularity contributes to better land incentives for businesses that adopt circular approaches.
management, soil health, and biodiversity conservation. This can include tax incentives, grants, or subsidies for
Fibers can be cultivated using environment friendly implementing circular processes, recycling initiatives, or
agricultural practices that minimize soil erosion, water using sustainable materials.
pollution, and the use of harmful chemicals.
Brand differentiation and reputation - Embracing
Reduced environmental impact - By reducing resource circularity in textiles allows businesses to differentiate
consumption, waste generation, and pollution, circularity themselves from competitors. By highlighting their
helps protect ecosystems, reduce greenhouse gas commitment to sustainability and circular practices,
emissions, and mitigate climate change. This contributes companies can build a brand image and gain a competitive
to better resource management by preserving natural edge in the market.
habitats, reducing water and air pollution, and minimizing
While an initial investment, and operational adjustments
ecological disruptions.
required to transition to circularity, the long run
Adapting Circularity can be profitable as benefits can outweigh the costs and contribute to the
well: profitability of businesses. As sustainability becomes more
mainstream, incorporating circular practices can position
Circularity practices can help businesses optimize the companies as leaders in the industry and help them thrive
use of resources such as raw materials, energy, and in the evolving market landscape.
water. By reducing waste and maximizing resource
- The writer is an Innovation Strategist.
efficiency, companies can lower their production costs and
operational expenses. For example, using recycled fibers or
materials can be more cost-effective than sourcing virgin
materials.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 29


Rise of AI-Powered Virtual Influencers:
Intersection of Fashion,
Textiles, and Social Media
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming various Virtual influencers and AI


aspects of our lives, and one area where its impact is
Although virtual influencers are not yet fully powered by
becoming increasingly prominent is in the realm of
AI, the concept of integrating AI into their development
virtual influencers. These digital personas, created using
and content creation pipelines is gaining traction. Many
computer graphics and AI technologies, have gained
virtual influencers incorporate AI into their narratives and
immense popularity on social media platforms. However,
storylines, such as VNCCII, who is an AI cyborg avatar.
it is important to understand that despite the AI narrative
These AI elements enhance the fictional storytelling and
often associated with virtual influencers, they are not yet
create a sense of uniqueness.
fully powered by AI. In this article, we will explore the
current state of virtual influencers, the role of AI in their Furthermore, AI is used in certain aspects of virtual
development, and the potential future where AI-driven influencer content production. For instance, Esther
virtual influencers may become a reality. Olofsson, a Swedish virtual influencer, recently
announced that her Instagram images would be generated
Defining virtual influencers
by AI. This integration of AI tools, such as Stable
Virtual influencers are digital characters created Diffusion and ChatGPT, allows for the creation of visually
using computer graphics software and given a defined stunning images and captions. While human teams still
personality to engage with audiences on various media play a crucial role in directing the storyline, choosing final
platforms. These virtual personas, such as Miquela Sousa content, and posting on social media, AI-powered tools
(@lilmiquela), have captivated millions of followers contribute to the creation process.
with their visually stunning appearances and intricate
storylines. While some virtual influencers, like Miquela,
AI in virtual influencer interactions
portray themselves as AI robots, the truth is that they The introduction of AI-driven chatbots like Kuki AI
are the result of human creativity and expertise. Their represents a step towards more interactive virtual
AI narrative serves to enhance their realism and engage influencers. Kuki AI operates as a rule-based chatbot,
audiences in a unique way utilizing natural language processing to analyze user

Figure 1: Virtual Influencers

30 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


influencers, such as fatigue, personal issues, or conflicting
partnerships. This authenticity and reliability can be
attractive to brands seeking a dependable influencer
partnership.

• Global Reach and Scalability: Virtual influencers


have the potential to reach a global audience without
the constraints of physical location or language barriers.
They can easily be translated, customized, and adapted to
different markets, making them scalable for international
brand campaigns. This global reach can help brands
expand their reach and connect with diverse consumer
bases.

Virtual influencers can be seen as


gimmicks:
• Lack of Authenticity: Virtual influencers, being
computer-generated, lack the genuine human experiences
that human influencers offer. Some critics argue that this
absence of authenticity can make it difficult for audiences
to connect with virtual influencers on a deeper emotional
Figure 2: Miquela Sousa, Virtual Influencer level. They may perceive virtual influencers as soulless
marketing tools rather than relatable individuals.
input and generate relevant responses. While Kuki’s social
media channels still require human input for content • Ethical Concerns: Virtual influencers raise ethical
creation, her ability to engage with users in real-time and questions surrounding transparency and deception.
respond to their queries showcases the potential of AI in Audiences may not always be aware that they are
enhancing virtual influencer interactions. interacting with a virtual character rather than a real
person. This lack of transparency can lead to mistrust and
Virtual influencers: great or gimmick? misrepresentation, raising concerns about the ethics of
The debate over virtual influencers being great or gimmick virtual influencers as a marketing strategy.
is subjective and depends on individual perspectives. Here
• Limited Versatility: While virtual influencers can be
are arguments for both sides:
visually stunning and innovative, they may be limited
Virtual influencers can be seen as great: in their ability to provide genuine human experiences
and personal connections. Virtual influencers lack the
• Creativity and Innovation: Virtual influencers authentic human touch that comes from lived experiences
represent a new and innovative approach to influencer and relatability, which can be essential for some audiences
marketing. They leverage advanced technologies such in building trust and loyalty.
as AI, CGI, and virtual reality to create captivating and
unique content. This creativity can capture the attention • Uncertain Longevity: As a relatively new
of audiences and provide fresh perspectives in the fashion phenomenon, the longevity of virtual influencers is
and marketing industries. uncertain. While they may currently attract attention and
generate buzz, it remains to be seen whether they can
• Controlled Brand Image: With virtual influencers, sustain long-term interest and continue to evolve alongside
brands have complete control over their image and rapidly advancing technologies. The virtual influencer
messaging. Unlike human influencers who may have trend could potentially fade away as novelty wears off.
their own opinions and behaviors, virtual influencers can
be precisely designed and programmed to align with a Opinions on virtual influencers being great or gimmick
brand’s values and objectives. This control allows brands are subjective. Some see them as a creative and innovative
to maintain consistency and avoid potential controversies. approach to influencer marketing, while others view them
as lacking authenticity and raising ethical concerns. As
• Authenticity and Consistency: Virtual influencers the industry and technology evolve, virtual influencers
are consistent in their behavior and persona. They can will continue to shape the influencer landscape, and
consistently deliver content, engage with followers, and their impact will be determined by their ability to engage
promote products without the limitations of human audiences and provide value to brand.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 31


personalized approach
enhances the shopping
experience and can drive sales
for fashion and textile brands.

• Exploring Sustainable
Fashion: The fashion industry
is increasingly focused on
sustainability, and virtual
influencers can play a role
in promoting eco-friendly
practices. Virtual influencers
can advocate for sustainable
fashion choices, highlight
brands that prioritize ethical
production processes and
materials, and educate
their followers about the
Figure 3: Bella Hadid With Lil Miquela for Calvin Klein Promotion
importance of conscious
consumerism. By aligning
How Virtual Influencer Could Be a Factor with sustainable fashion
for Fashion and Textile Industry initiatives, virtual influencers can influence positive
change within the industry.
Virtual influencers have the potential to become
significant factors in the fashion and textile industry. Here • Creative Collaborations and Design Innovation: Virtual
are some ways in which virtual influencers can impact this influencers can collaborate with fashion designers and
industry: textile artists to push the boundaries of creativity and
innovation. By combining the unique aesthetics of virtual
• Brand Collaboration and Endorsements: Virtual
influencers with the expertise of designers, new and
influencers offer a new avenue for fashion brands to
imaginative fashion concepts can be brought to life. This
collaborate and endorse their products. By partnering with
collaborative approach can inspire new design techniques,
virtual influencers, brands can showcase their clothing,
fabrications, and artistic expressions within the fashion
accessories, and other fashion items in a unique and
and textile industry.
visually captivating manner. These digital personas can
wear and promote different styles and trends, providing • Global Reach and Accessibility: Virtual influencers
brands with a dynamic platform to reach their target transcend physical boundaries and have the potential to
audience. reach a global audience. They can engage with followers
from different countries and cultures, showcasing fashion
• Trendsetting and Style Inspiration: Virtual influencers
trends from around the world. This global reach and
have the ability to set trends and inspire fashion choices
accessibility allow fashion and textile brands to expand
among their followers. As AI-driven characters, they can
their market and connect with diverse consumer bases.
experiment with bold and avant-garde fashion styles that
might not be as easily adopted by human influencers. The rise of AI-powered virtual influencers has brought
By incorporating AI-generated fashion ideas, virtual forth a new era in the fashion and textile industry, where
influencers can introduce innovative and boundary- technology, creativity, and marketing converge. These
pushing looks, influencing the fashion choices of their virtual personalities offer brands an opportunity to control
followers. their image, engage with audiences consistently, and
reach a global market. However, the ethical concerns
• Personalized Shopping Experience: Virtual
and challenges regarding authenticity and transparency
influencers, when powered by AI, can leverage machine
need to be addressed for virtual influencers to gain wider
learning algorithms to analyze user preferences and
acceptance. As the fashion industry continues to evolve,
offer personalized recommendations. By understanding
the future of AI-powered virtual influencers holds both
their followers’ style preferences, body types, and
promises and uncertainties, shaping the way brands
fashion interests, virtual influencers can suggest specific
interact with consumers and exploring the fascinating
products or even create virtual try-on experiences. This
intersection of artificial intelligence and social media.

32 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Urgent call for recycling textile
factories, paving the sustainable
path for Bangladesh
Rony

Recently, the textile industry has been criticized for the Report for the Year 2023)
damage it causes to the environment and the amount of
The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries
trash it generates. Since Bangladesh is already one of the
in the world, and textile waste management aims to
world’s foremost textile producers, it can set an example
reduce its environmental impact through processes such as
for other countries by recycling its textile scraps. This
reuse, recycling, and incineration.
article details global and local statistics, analyzes potential
problems, and emphasizes the project’s environmental According to reports, Bangladesh produced nearly 577,000
significance to explain why Bangladesh mandates textile tonnes of apparel waste in 2019, with approximately half
firms to recycle. (250,000 tonnes) comprising pure cotton waste. Two-
thirds of this waste is exported due to a lack of policy and
Textile waste is a major global issue, with 85 percent of
industrial recycling capacity, and the country is losing
clothing and textiles ending up in landfills, although 95
opportunities to benefit from this waste. Bangladesh has
percent can be reused or recycled. The growing awareness
the potential to save nearly $500 million in imports by
of the environmental hazards caused by improper textile
recycling this waste locally, reducing its reliance on virgin
waste disposal has increased the demand for sustainable
materials and promoting a circular economy.
waste management practices.
According to Faisal Rabbi, manager of Stakeholder
From 2016 to 2021, the global textile waste management
Engagement and Public Affairs at H&M Group,
market is expected to grow at a CAGR (Compound
Bangladesh, three brands – Lindex, H&M Group, and
Annual Growth Rate) of 7.1 percent, indicating a growing
IKEA – have set their targets of using 100% recycled or
demand for recycling solutions. The Asia-Pacific region
sustainable materials for their apparel by 2030. Before
is expected to grow at the fastest rate, owing to rising
that, Lindex and H&M Group committed to using 15%
awareness and demand for textile waste management
and 30% recycled materials by 2025.
services. (Source: Mark Wide Research, Textile Recycling

89
2% Losses
during collection
Annual fiber and processing
production 2020 million tons 12%
Recycling
into other
lower-value
<1% applications
Closed-loop
80 recycling
70 67%
60
50
40
30 25%
20
12%
10 7% Recycling
1% Losses in
0
production
73%
n

g
er
er ade

to

in
th
ot

cl
fib nm

O
s

cy
C

Landfilled or
a

Re
M

incinerated
Figure 01: Annual Production and Recycling Statistics in 2020 Worldwide (Source: Ellen Macarthur Foundation, Textile Exchange - Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021)

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 33


To aid in global
sustainability, Bangladesh
Circularity in RMG industry
has several textile waste
5.77 lakh tons of textile
recycling options.
waste generated every year
Reducing clothing waste
through recycling is a top
priority for well-known Two-third of the waste are
fashion labels, helping currently being exported
to foster a long-term,
sustainable industry.
Brands in the fashion $500mn Can be saved a year
industry favor recycled
if all cotton waste recycle
(Figure 02: Circularity of the Bangladesh RMG Industry - Source: Nordic Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Bangladesh)
fibers because customers
demand eco-friendly,
fashionable, sustainable products.
low-impact garments.
Bangladesh can enter the recycled materials market and CYCLO® is a trailblazing company that has transformed
advance sustainability and environmental protection by the production of coarse, low-quality yarn into high-
recycling pre-consumer cotton waste and investigating quality, long-lasting CYCLO® recycled fibers. CYCLO®
new technologies. recycled fibers are made using a mechanical recycling
process that does not use water, dyes, or chemicals.
The Bangladesh Commerce Ministry has recommended
The company invests in new technologies to broaden
removing the 22.5 percent value-added tax (VAT) on
its application range, improve quality, and foster
garment industry waste recycling in April 2023. According
innovation. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition and the
to stakeholders, the high VAT and production costs of
HIGG index collaborate with CYCLO® recycled fibers.
recycled yarn impede the sector’s growth, making it
The manufacturing process includes sourcing, sorting,
difficult for local recycling mills to compete with imported
recycling, blending, spinning, doubling/twisting, and
yarn. Following discussions with the Bangladesh Textile
delivery.
Mills Association (BTMA) and stakeholders from the
recycling department, the request to withdraw the VAT Re/DRESS, a sustainable fashion brand, is committed
was forwarded to the National Board of Revenue (NBR). to using textiles made from nearly 100 percent recycled
cotton or polyester fibers. While some textiles may contain
BEXIMCO, Bangladesh’s leading sustainable fashion
a small amount of non-recycled fiber (5% or less), Re/
manufacturer, has partnered with RecoverTM to open
DRESS guarantees that at least 40% of the material
a recycling facility in Dhaka. This collaboration aims to
used is recycled cotton. This initiative aims to highlight
transform the textile industry by closing the fashion loop
Bangladesh’s incredible potential for cotton recycling.
using recycled raw materials. The facility will manufacture
denim, woven, and knit fabrics from 5 percent to 30 Other factories in Bangladesh can benefit from top-tier
percent RCS/GRS verified recycled fiber, thereby recycling facilities’ knowledge and embrace innovative
contributing to a holistic transparent supply chain and technologies and processes to advance their recycling
sustainable fabric production techniques. efforts. By following these steps, they can contribute to a
more sustainable textile industry and effectively recycle
Inditex, Zara’s parent company, has agreed to purchase
textile waste.
30% of Infinite Fiber Company’s recycled fiber over three
years for more than $104 million. This collaboration The sector needs to invest in innovation, teamwork, and
is part of Inditex’s sustainability commitment and increased recycling efforts to keep up with the demands of
Sustainability Innovation Hub. a changing world.

Filotex, a Bangladeshi company, creates eco-friendly The establishment of textile recycling factories in
products by recycling knit fabric and reducing waste. Bangladesh should be a top priority. Bangladesh can
These recycled products are the same or better quality promote a cleaner future for the textile industry while
than regular products. Major global brands have reaping economic benefits, decreasing its reliance on
committed to recycling used garments, and Filotex can virgin materials, and contributing to global sustainability
contribute to the circular fashion movement by using these goals. To take advantage of this chance, removing
brands’ cutting waste as raw materials. Many leading roadblocks, creating enabling legislation, and rallying
brands that manufacture garments in Bangladesh can support from interested parties will be necessary. The road
send their cutting waste to Filotex to be recycled into to sustainable textile waste management is not far off.

34 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy


Figure: The rise of fast fashion has transformed the apparel industry, making clothing more affordable and accessible than ever before. However, this convenience has come at a great cost to both the
environment and society. Courtesy: Harley Weir & Urs Fischer for Stella McCartney 2017

Hidden cost of fast fashion: Unveiling


environmental and social consequences
M A Mohiemen Tanim

In recent decades, the rise of fast fashion has transformed at the expense of workers’ rights and fair labor practices:
the apparel industry, making clothing more affordable and
• Exploitation of workers: The fast fashion supply chain
accessible than ever before. However, this convenience has
is notorious for exploiting vulnerable workers in low-
come at a great cost to both the environment and society.
wage countries. Garment workers endure unsafe working
The detrimental impact of fast fashion, characterized
conditions, long hours, and meager wages, perpetuating
by quick production cycles and disposable clothing, has
a cycle of poverty and injustice.
prompted a global call for change. This article explores the
reasons why fast fashion must be replaced with sustainable Social Impact
fashion, highlighting the environmental, social, and
ethical imperatives behind this shift. Fast fashion’s relentless pursuit of trends fosters a culture of
overconsumption, which has profound social implications:
Environmental degradation
• Disposability mindset: Fast fashion encourages
Fast fashion’s rapid production and consumption model the mentality of “buy more, wear less.” This mindset
have led to severe environmental degradation: promotes a culture of disposability, where clothing is
treated as a short-lived commodity.
• Excessive resource consumption: Fast fashion relies
heavily on non-renewable resources such as oil, water, and Economic benefits
land. The production of synthetic fabrics, such as polyester,
Transitioning from fast fashion to sustainable fashion
contributes to carbon emissions and fossil fuel depletion.
presents numerous economic advantages:
• Mounting waste generation: The fast fashion industry
• Long-term cost savings: While fast fashion may offer
generates a staggering amount of textile waste.
initially low prices, the poor quality and short lifespan of
Discarded clothing, often made from non-biodegradable
these garments result in frequent repurchases.
materials, ends up in landfills, where it contributes to
greenhouse gas emissions. Embracing sustainable practices, such as responsible
sourcing, ethical production, waste reduction, and
Ethical Concerns circularity, offers a path towards a more environmentally
Fast fashion’s relentless pursuit of low costs often comes conscious and socially responsible industry.

Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 35


Scopes & impact of EU Strategy
for Sustainable & Circular Textiles
Sayed Abdullah

The European Union’s (EU) consumption of textiles has


the fourth highest impact on the environment and climate.
To tackle this, the EU recently drafted ‘Strategy for
Sustainable and Circular Textiles’ sets out the vision and Making textiles Tackling issues like Ensuring that
more long-lasting, fast fashion, textile production of textiles
concrete actions to ensure that by 2030 textile products repairable, reusable, waste, and destruction takes place in full
and recyclable of unsold textiles respect of social rights
placed on the EU market are long-lived and recyclable, and the safeguards
environment
made as much as possible of recycled fibers, free of Figure: EU’s 2030 Vision for Textiles.
hazardous substances and produced in respect of social
rights and the environment. 3. Supply chain transparency: The strategy emphasizes
the need for greater transparency and traceability
The strategy for sustainable and circular textiles is a
throughout the textile supply chain. This includes
comprehensive plan to discourse the environmental and
addressing issues such as forced labor, child labor, and
social impacts of the EU and the global textile industry.
unsustainable production methods. Manufacturing
And it has the potential to transform the textile industry. It
countries will need to ensure compliance with these
is a clear signal that the EU is committed to a sustainable
requirements to maintain access to the EU market and
future and is expected to significantly impact the
avoid reputational risks.
environment and society.
4. Market access and trade opportunities: The EU is
The strategy will have a tangible effect on the textile
a significant market for textiles, and adherence to the
industry, both within the EU and in the global fashion
strategy’s sustainability standards can enhance market
supply chain. In addition, this move is envisioned to lead
access for manufacturing countries. By aligning their
to a more sustainable and circular textile sector, which will
practices with EU regulations, countries may benefit from
aid both the climate and society.
increased trade opportunities and preferential access to the
What scopes it’ll create in the manufacturing countries EU market.
and overall supply chain
5. Collaboration and knowledge sharing: The strategy
The EU’s strategy targets to create a more sustainable encourages collaboration among stakeholders, including
and circular textile industry within the Union. While it manufacturers, policymakers, and civil society, to drive
mainly emphasizes actions within the EU, its application sustainable change. This can foster knowledge exchange
can have substantial effects on manufacturing countries and capacity building in manufacturing countries,
and the global textile supply chain. Here are some of the enabling them to adopt best practices and implement
prospective scopes and impacts: sustainable measures throughout their textile supply
chains.
1. Environmental sustainability: The strategy stresses
decreasing the environmental footprint of the textile 6. Consumer awareness and demand: The strategy
industry. This will lead to increased demand for aims to raise consumer awareness about sustainable and
sustainable manufacturing practices and materials, such circular textiles. As European consumers become more
as organic or recycled fibers. Manufacturing countries that conscious of the environmental and social impact of their
align with these sustainability requirements may benefit purchases, there may be an increased demand for products
from increased business opportunities and investments. that align with the strategy’s principles. Manufacturing
countries that can meet these demands may experience a
2. Circular economy practices: The strategy promotes
surge in export opportunities.
the transition to a circular economy, where products are
designed to be reused, recycled, or repurposed instead of Overall, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular
being disposed of as waste. This can drive innovation in Textiles can shape the behavior of manufacturing
manufacturing countries, encouraging the development countries and the textile supply chain by promoting
of technologies and processes that support circularity. sustainability, circularity, transparency, and collaboration.
Countries that adopt circular practices early on may gain a Adapting to these requirements can offer new market
competitive advantage in the global market. opportunities and enhance the competitiveness of
countries in the global textile industry.

36 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy

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