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Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
vi New Perspectives Series
Kate Mason, Learning Designer; Tom Benedetto, Product Assistant; Erin Griffin, Art Director;
Fola Orekoya, Manufacturing Planner; Lumina Datamatics Ltd., Compositor, as well as John
Freitas and Danielle Shaw, Technical Editors.
This book is dedicated to my wife Joan who is my inspiration and role model for her good
humor, dedication, and tireless support.
– Patrick Carey
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 5 and CSS, 8th Edition, Comprehensive vii
BRIEF CONTENTS
HTML Level I Tutorials
Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 1
Creating a Website for a Food Vendor
Tutorial 2 Getting Started with CSS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 85
Designing a Website for a Fitness Club
Level II Tutorials
Tutorial 3 Designing a Page Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 175
Creating a Website for a Chocolatier
Tutorial 4 Graphic Design with CSS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 273
Creating a Graphic Design for a Genealogy Website
Tutorial 5 Designing for the Mobile Web. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 361
Creating a Mobile Website for a Daycare Center
Glossary REF 1
Index REF 11
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Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
viii New Perspectives Series
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iii SESSION 1.2���������������������������������������������������������HTML 22
Tools for Working with HTML . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 6 Line Breaks and Other Empty Elements . . . . . . . HTML 38
Content Management Systems and Working with Block Quotes and Other Elements . . . HTML 39
Frameworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 7
Session 1.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 45
Testing your Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 7
SESSION 1.3���������������������������������������������������������HTML 46
Exploring an HTML Document . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 8
Working with Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 48
The Document Type Declaration . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 8
Ordered Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 48
Introducing Element Tags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 9
Unordered Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 49
The Element Hierarchy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 10
Description Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 51
Introducing Element Attributes . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 11
Navigation Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 55
Handling White Space . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 12
Working with Hypertext Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 57
Viewing an HTML File in a Browser . . . . . . . . . HTML 12
Turning an Inline Image into a Link . . . . . . . . . . HTML 59
Creating an HTML File . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 13
Specifying the Folder Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 60
Creating the Document Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 15
Absolute Paths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 61
Setting the Page Title . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 16
Relative Paths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 61
Adding Metadata to the Document . . . . . . . . . . HTML 16
Setting the Base Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 62
Adding Comments to Your Document . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 18
Linking to a Location within a Document . . . . . . . . HTML 63
Session 1.1 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 21
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 5 and CSS, 8th Edition, Comprehensive ix
Marking Locations with the id Attribute . . . . . . . HTML 63 RGB Color Values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 99
Anchors and the name Attribute . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 63 Defining Semi-Opaque Colors . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 102
Linking to the Internet and Other Resources . . . . . . HTML 64 Setting Text and Background Colors . . . . . . . . HTML 102
Linking to an Email Address . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 65 Session 2.1 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 107
Creating a Style Sheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 96 Session 2.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 133
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
x New Perspectives Series
Using Images for List Markers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 141 Working with Container Collapse . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 201
Setting the List Marker Position . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 142 Session 3.1 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 204
SESSION 3.1 �������������������������������������������������������HTML 176 Managing Space within a Grid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 234
Introducing the display Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 178 Alignment for a Single Grid Cell . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 235
Creating a Reset Style Sheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 178 Aligning the Grid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 235
Exploring Page Layout Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 182 Session 3.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 237
Fixed, Fluid, and Elastic Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 182 SESSION 3.3 ������������������������������������������������������HTML 238
Working with Width and Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 184 Positioning Objects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 240
Setting Maximum and Minimum Dimensions . . HTML 184 The CSS Positioning Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 240
Centering a Block Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 187 Relative Positioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 240
Vertical Centering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 188 Absolute Positioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 241
Floating Page Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 189 Fixed and Inherited Positioning . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 244
Clearing a Float . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 193 Using the Positioning Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 244
Refining a Floated Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 197
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
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Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 5 and CSS, 8th Edition, Comprehensive xi
Handling Overflow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 254 Gradients and Color Stops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 315
Session 3.3 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 260 Creating Semi-Transparent Objects . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 322
Review Assignments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 267 Session 4.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 324
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
xii New Perspectives Series
Aligning Items along the Cross Axis . . . . . . . . . HTML 410 SESSION 6.2 �����������������������������������������������������HTML 476
Creating a Navicon Menu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 412 Creating Row Groups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 478
Session 5.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 417 Creating Column Groups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 482
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Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 5 and CSS, 8th Edition, Comprehensive xiii
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
xiv New Perspectives Series
Exploring Digital Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 620 Working with the script Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 686
Video Formats and Codecs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 620 Loading the script Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 686
Using the HTML 5 video Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 621 Inserting the script Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 687
Adding a Text Track to Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 624 Creating a JavaScript Program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 689
Making Tracks with WebVTT . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 625 Adding Comments to your JavaScript Code . . . HTML 689
Placing the Cue Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 628 Writing a JavaScript Command . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 690
Applying Styles to Track Cues . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 630 Understanding JavaScript Syntax . . . . . . . . . . HTML 691
Using Third-Party Video Players . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 634 Debugging Your Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 692
Exploring the Flash Player . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 635 Opening a Debugger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 692
Embedding Videos from YouTube . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 636 Inserting a Breakpoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 694
HTML 5 Video Players . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 637 Applying Strict Usage of JavaScript . . . . . . . . . HTML 695
Session 8.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 639 Session 9.1 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 697
Creating Transitions with CSS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 642 Introducing Objects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 700
Setting the Transition Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 644 Referencing Object Collections . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 701
Delaying a Transition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 647 Referencing an Object by ID and Name . . . . . . HTML 703
Creating a Hover Transition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 647 Changing Properties and Applying Methods . . . . . HTML 704
Animating Objects with CSS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 652 Object Properties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 704
Session 8.3 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 666 Declaring a Variable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 709
Review Assignments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 673 Variables and Data Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 710
Tutorial 9 Getting Started with JavaScript Working with Date Objects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 711
Creating a Countdown Clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 681
Creating a Date Object . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 712
SESSION 9.1 �������������������������������������������������������HTML 682 Applying Date Methods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 713
Introducing JavaScript . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 684 Setting Date and Time Values . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 716
Server-Side and Client-Side Programming . . . . HTML 684 Session 9.2 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 717
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Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 5 and CSS, 8th Edition, Comprehensive xv
Working with Operators and Operands . . . . . . . . . HTML 720 Sorting an Array . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 764
Using Assignment Operators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 720 Extracting and Inserting Array Items . . . . . . . . HTML 765
Calculating the Days Left in the Year . . . . . . . . HTML 721 Using Arrays as Data Stacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 766
Working with the Math Object . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 723 Session 10.1 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 769
Session 9.3 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 739 SESSION 10.3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 786
Review Assignments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 744 Introducing Conditional Statements . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 788
Case Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 746 Exploring the if Statement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 789
Tutorial 10 Exploring Arrays, Loops, and Conditional Nesting if Statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 791
Statements Exploring the if else Statement . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 793
Creating a Monthly Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 751
Using Multiple else if Statements . . . . . . . . . . HTML 794
SESSION 10.1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 752
Completing the Calendar App . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 796
Introducing the Monthly Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 754
Setting the First Day of the Month . . . . . . . . . HTML 797
Reviewing the Calendar Structure . . . . . . . . . . HTML 755
Placing the First Day of the Month . . . . . . . . . HTML 798
Adding the calendar() Function . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 756
Writing the Calendar Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 799
Introducing Arrays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 757
Highlighting the Current Date . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 801
Creating and Populating an Array . . . . . . . . . . HTML 758
Displaying Daily Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 803
Working with Array Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 761
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. WCN 02-200-203
Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
xvi New Perspectives Series
Managing Program Loops and Conditional Appendix C Cascading Styles and Selectors . . HTML C1
Statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 806
Appendix D Making the Web
Exploring the break Command . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 806
More Accessible. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML D1
Exploring the continue Command . . . . . . . . . . HTML 806
Appendix E Designing for the Web. . . . . . . . . . HTML E1
Exploring Statement Labels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 807
Appendix F Page Validation with XHTML. . . . HTML F1
Session 10.3 Quick Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 809
GLOSSARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF 1
Review Assignments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HTML 815
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Copyright 2021 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
TUTORIAL
1
O B J E C T I VES Getting Started
Session 1.1
• Explore the history of the web
• Create the structure of an
with HTML 5
HTML document Creating a Website for a Food Vendor
• Insert HTML elements and
attributes
• Insert metadata into a document
• Define a page title Case | Curbside Thai
Session 1.2 Sajja Adulet is the owner and master chef of Curbside Thai,
• Mark page structures with a restaurant owner and now food truck vendor in Charlotte,
sectioning elements North Carolina that specializes in Thai dishes. Sajja has hired
• Organize page content with you to develop the company’s website. The website will display
grouping elements information about Curbside Thai, including the truck’s daily
• Mark content with text-level locations, menu, catering opportunities, and contact information.
elements Sajja wants the pages to convey the message that customers will get
• Insert inline images the same great food and service whether they order in the restaurant
• Insert symbols based on
or from the food truck. Some of the materials for these pages have
character codes
already been completed by a former employee and Sajja needs you
Session 1.3 to finish the job by converting that work into a collection of web
• Mark content using lists page documents. To complete this task, you’ll learn how to write
• Create a navigation list and edit HTML 5 code and how to get your HTML files ready for
• Link to files within a website display on the World Wide Web.
with hypertext links
• Link to email addresses and
telephone numbers
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Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
HTML 2 HTML 5 and CSS | Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5
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Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5 | HTML 5 and CSS HTML 3
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HTML 4 HTML 5 and CSS | Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5
Networks
A network is a structure in which information and services are shared among devices
known as nodes or hosts. A host can be any device that is capable of sending or
receiving data electronically. The most common hosts that you will work with are
desktop computers, laptops, tablets, mobile phones, and printers.
A host that provides information or a service to other devices on the network is
called a server. For example, a print server provides printing services; a file server
provides storage space for saving and retrieving files. The device receiving these
services is called a client. A common network design is the client-server network,
in which the clients access information provided by one or more servers.
Networks are classified based on the range of devices they cover. A network
confined to a small geographic area, such as within a building or department, is
referred to as a local area network or LAN. A network that covers a wider area, such as
several buildings or cities, is called a wide area network or WAN. Wide area networks
typically consist of two or more interconnected local area networks. The largest WAN
in existence is the Internet, which incorporates an almost uncountable number of
networks and hosts involving computers, mobile devices (such as phones, tablets, and
so forth), MP3 players, and gaming systems.
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Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5 | HTML 5 and CSS HTML 5
document from the web server and renders it in a form readable on a client device.
However, because there is a wide selection of client devices ranging from desktop
computers to mobile phones to screen readers that relay data aurally, each web page
must be written in code that is compatible with every device. How does the same
document work with so many different devices? To understand, you need to look at
how web pages are created.
Introducing HTML
A web page is a simple text file written in HTML (Hypertext Markup Language). You’ve
already read about hypertext, but what is a markup language? A markup language is
a language that describes the content and structure of a document by “marking up”
or tagging, different document elements. For example, this tutorial contains several
document elements such as the tutorial title, main headings, subheadings, paragraphs,
figures, figure captions, and so forth. Using a markup language, each of these elements
could be tagged as a distinct item within the “tutorial document.” Thus, a Hypertext
Markup Language is a language that supports tagging distinct document elements and
connecting documents through hypertext links.
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HTML 6 HTML 5 and CSS | Tutorial 1 Getting Started with HTML 5
As HTML has evolved, features and code found in earlier versions of the language
are often deprecated, or phased out, and while deprecated features might not be part
You can find out which
browsers support the of HTML 5, that doesn’t mean that you won’t encounter them in your work—indeed, if
features of HTML 5 by you are maintaining older websites, you will often need to interpret code from earlier
going to the website versions of HTML. Moreover, there are still many older browsers and devices in active
caniuse.com. use that do not support HTML 5. Thus, a major challenge for website designers is
writing code that takes advantage of HTML 5 but is still accessible to older technology.
Figure 1–1 summarizes some of the different versions of HTML that have been
implemented over the years. You can read detailed specifications for these versions at
the W3C website.
This book focuses on HTML 5, but you will also review some of the specifications
for HTML 4.01 and XHTML 1.1. Deprecated features from older versions of HTML will
be noted as such in the text.
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phases of the development process from writing HTML code to creating scripts for
programs running on web servers. Some of the popular IDEs for web development
include Adobe Dreamweaver (www.adobe.com), Aptana Studio (www.aptana.com),
NetBeans IDE (netbeans.org), and Komodo IDE (komodoide.com). Web IDEs can be
very expensive, but most software companies will provide a free evaluation period for
you to test their product to see if it meets your needs.
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CHAPTER XVI.
Cycling in Burmah proved extremely monotonous, and the dullest of all the dreary rides
we experienced were here. Nowhere was there a variety of scene or change from the
level valley, with its dusty, winding roads stretching out under the blistering tropical sun.
The air was ever stifling hot; it smarted our dilated nostrils; seemed to stuff our gasping
lungs and blister the backs of our hands and necks, and a ride of three hours at a stretch
caused us to relax into a sort of stupor, from which we could only arouse ourselves by
repeated efforts. Had we reached Burmah during the fall of the year, we could have
made good progress, but now tedious delays, entirely beyond our control, hampered us,
and we had to face not only the famine and plague-infested land, but the white man’s
greatest enemy, the summer sun, which, in its molten glare, kept the temperature above
100, night and day, making death and heat apoplexy quite as possible as from the
epidemic of cholera and bubonic fever. We left Mandalay at daybreak on March 1, and
started over the dusty roads to Rangoon, 400 miles south. Mandalay had been the point
which we had selected to observe the characteristics and customs of the natives, and,
unlike the efforts put forth in the same channel in China, we found the duties pleasant
and fraught with happy little incidents. Burmans resemble the Japanese to a certain
extent; not so cleanly, energetic, intelligent or independent, but possessing the same
admirable faculty of being happy, smiling and self-complacent under circumstances
which would fill any other being’s soul with pessimistic vagaries. Farming, carpentry
and carving appear to be the only occupations left them, for everywhere was seen the
submissive black who followed the rush of England into the land of milk and honey and
rice and rubies.
“Othello’s occupation gone” is true of the Burman. Blacks are the scavengers, sweepers,
table servants, cooks, butlers, porters, coachmen, tailors and merchants. Eurasians, the
half-castes, whose yellow skin and coarse black hair betray their early English ancestors,
and the blacks are selected to act as clerks, hospital attendants, telegraph operators and
railroad clerks. “Baboo,” the English and natives call them, and, if another letter had
only been added to the name, the term would have been quite appropriate. With all these
occupations lost to him, the native still appears to do well, always in silk and spotless
muslin, smoking incessantly cigarettes or huge cheroots, which scatter sparks like a
working fire engine. The women of the Indian races act as laundresses, nurses and
maids. Thus, with almost all the natural trades and occupations taken by invaders, little
is left for the Burman but the profession of thief and thief-catcher, both synonymous in
Burmah, where a policeman is feared not for his authority, but for the blackmailing such
office permits him to levy upon wrong-doers and innocent upon whom suspicion rests.
We had many companions on the road to Rangoon. On every side were Burmans on foot,
on horse, and in the low-roofed box-like carts, which creaked and groaned as the gentle,
curved-horned beasts drew them along. We passed Indians who walked hand-in-hand,
and Chinese gardeners who swung along at a rapid pace, though their backs were bowed
with the weight of fresh vegetables. Bicycles did not seem to attract much attention in
the motley throng, the only persons acting as though our presence was unusual being the
women bathing around the stone-topped wells, and they only because the icy waters that
dashed and poured over their bodies had caused the only garment they wore, a short,
scant skirt, to cling closely to their limbs, revealing every outline of symmetrical figures.
The craze for wheeling had just reached an interesting stage in Rangoon at the time of
our visit. The demand for machines exceeded the supply, and as a result there was to be
seen every morning and evening the most interesting parade of antiquities ever
witnessed outside of a bicycle show. American machines of modern make were a close
second to the new English product, but wheels entitled to the utmost respect due to old
age formed the creaking, groaning majority. The riders, too, were curious, the Europeans
first in numbers, Eurasians second, and the Indian-Chinese-Burman, the mongrel of all
Asia, making up the balance. The positions, too, some of the riders assumed were
remarkable. The “hump” had not reached the far East, the rat-trap pedal and toe-clip
were unknown, and with handle-bars wide as the horns of a Texas steer, seats suspended
on coil after coil of spring, low and set far back over the rear wheel, the tread eight and
ten inches wide, the riders reversed the “hump” and appeared to be sitting on the dorsal
vertebra, pumping much as a bather swimming on his back. There were many places of
historical interest in and around Rangoon, and as all points were available by cycle, our
good old wheels were kept busy. The turning point of our morning spins, the teak lumber
yards, permitted sights which would delight the little folks at home as much as they
secured the attention of tourists here. Elephants, great, huge, dirty fellows, void of all the
tinsel trappings of the circus, were the attraction, as daily they performed the most
arduous labor which in America is done by cranes and derricks. In harness of chains, the
beasts drew enormous logs from the river to the carriage at the saws, and with ropes
wound around their trunks they dragged the rough slabs into a yard and piled them in
precise heaps. With trunk coiled as a cushion against their tusks, they pushed enormous
pieces of timber into the proper places, each piece being placed in exact position, with
the ends carefully “trimmed.” Gentle and meek as the laborers are in appearance, as,
with flapping ears and timid little eyes, they obey their commands, they sometimes
become mutinous. In the McGregor yard, which we visited one morning, we were shown
one of the largest and best workers of the herd, who had just been released from “jail.”
He had been in confinement four months, laden with chains, deprived of delicacies, and
treated as a criminal, simply because he had wantonly walked upon and then tossed his
keeper into the air. The beast apparently realized the disgrace which had been heaped
upon him, for he obeyed his new master without even pausing to blow dust on his back
or plaster his huge sides with cooling, fly-proof mud.
With the advent of English rule in Burmah, native athletic sport degenerated, and
became supplanted in time by horse races of most corrupt nature. When I state that the
racing is corrupt I have but to cite two instances which occurred at the meeting of the
Mandalay Club during our visit to that city. A captain in Her Majesty’s army placed
3,000 against 1,000 rupees that a certain horse, which we will designate as A, would win
over the field presenting two horses, B and C. Of the latter, C was clearly outclassed,
consequently the race was between A and B. You may judge of the bookmakers' surprise
when they learned in the afternoon that the gallant captain was to ride B, the horse he
had bet against. The race had but one possible outcome, A won. Another race was started
and finished in absolute darkness. No lights were used on the tracks, the horses were
dark in color, and the jockeys the same, but the judge readily named the winner, and the
bookmakers lost again.
A native prize fight is even more remarkable, though always conducted “on the square.”
I do not know the rules governing the ring in Burmah, but so few methods of attack are
barred that one need not bother himself on that point. Biting, hair-pulling and kicking a
fallen opponent are the only prohibited acts. I was invited to be present at a series of
combats which took place in the arena near the Shway Dagon pagoda in Rangoon.
Facing each other, the fighters stood a pace apart, the referees opposite each other, also,
forming a square. The referees clapped their chests, the combatants smote themselves
likewise, there was a great roar of voices, and before I could really notice how it
happened, the fighters were wriggling on the tanbark. A flash of dark skins through the
sun’s rays, the clapping sounds of palms on necks, backs and thighs, a catherine wheel of
legs, arms, heads and tanbark, and the round was over. Separated by the referees, the
men retired to their corners, drank bottles of soda water, took fresh chews of betel nut,
and good-naturedly listened to the gratuitous advice from their friends in the audience.
The referees called round two by slapping their chests. The fighters were more cautious
as they went at each other, the up-country man opening the round by kicking his
antagonist in the chest. A vicious uppercut with a swinging knee was next landed by the
local man, and as it reached the curry and rice department of the up-country man, events
looked bright for Rangoon. Blows, swung right and left, up and down, were delivered
like a man chopping wood. The Rangoon man made a supreme effort to feint, and in
doing so he actually struck something, and unexpectedly ended the bout. Leaping high in
the air, he kicked the up-country man square on the nose. The blood flew, and the fight
was over. Blood drawn, if only from a scratch, constitutes a victory for the unbled one,
and two minutes later the fighters had received their reward, coins tossed into the ring by
spectators.
Two years to a day after leaving Chicago we walked up the gang-plank of the steamship
“Africa,” booked for Calcutta, only three days across the formidable Bay of Bengal.
Mrs. McIlrath developed her usual attack of sea sickness, though the water was
unruffled, and was kept in her cabin for the entire voyage, leaving me to occupy the
daylight hours wandering among the deck passengers. The first impression one receives
on landing at the port of Calcutta is that the city is one vast cab stand. “Gharries,” as the
natives' hacks are called, line the walks, crowd the streets, rest under the shades of trees
in parks, and stand at the curb in front of hotels and shops. The dust, rattle and bang
caused by these shaky, dirty vehicles, which are dragged about by horses at snail’s pace,
is a nuisance second only to the tram cars, and one which would be tolerated only by
custom-bound, “strictly-in-form” Englishmen. Streets in Calcutta wander aimlessly
along, similar to the rail fences in Indiana, and the buildings, uniformly of staff-covered
brick, are of every imaginable size and shape, as if architects were of one mind in
determining to try all kinds in an effort to obtain one adapted to the climate. Sidewalks,
roads and paths are packed with white-clad natives, barefooted and bareheaded, in the
awful glare of heat, which strikes horses dead, unless their heads are protected, yet none
of the blacks appear to suffer. Doors of hotels and shops are kept open, but hanging in
the apertures are heavy mats of a peculiar grass, which coolies wet with pails of water,
and by which means the air is cooled. Everywhere the heat is talked about and guarded
against, and yet, with huge fans swung constantly over one’s head, with cooling draughts
on a table by your side, the perspiration pours from every part of the body. One hundred
and ten degrees in the shady corridors of the Continental hotel, the coolest in all India,
98 degrees at night, and this was the country we crossed on bicycles, involving over
2,000 miles' travel, and beyond the pale of ice or daily clean clothes! Bicycles are ridden
extensively in Calcutta, comparatively speaking more than 3,000 wheels being
enumerated in the tax list at the time I was in the city. There are, however, only about
three months in the year favorable to riding—December, January and February. In other
months cycling is tolerable only between the hours of 5 and 8 in the morning and
evening. This, of course, applies only to the Europeans, and not to the natives, who ride
in the intense heat of midday without the slightest difficulty. A sight calculated to arouse
laughter in a wooden cigar sign is one of the proud possessors of an old solid-tire, with
hammock saddle and wide handle-bars, as he plows along the road, making erratic dives,
like misbalanced kites.
The most frequented road is a short strip on the Maidan, an enormous clearing, five and
seven-eighths miles in circumference, in which is situated Fort Williams. Roads of fine
macadam skirt the park, and amid cricket, golf and football grounds are statues and
columns erected to Englishmen who have performed satisfactory duties in India. Eden
Garden, at one end of the Maidan, is a beautiful spot, and here, morning and evening, a
well-directed band plays sweet music to charm Calcutta’s conglomerated inhabitants.
Cycling in early evening along the Strand is also gratifying. The street is crowded with
women in white and red robes, silver anklets and bracelets, their head and matchless
figures but faintly concealed by flimsy togs. Burning ghats are also erected on the river
shore. The Calcutta burning ghats on the Strand road affords accommodation for the
cremation of sixteen bodies simultaneously. In appearance, the crematory is
unpretentious, simply a low-roofed structure divided into an alcove, and two waiting
rooms for mourners. The Inter Ocean cyclists visited the crematory, and were shown
throughout the establishment by an aged Hindoo, who superintended the force of men
who kept going the coals under fifteen pyres. Not of less interest, but far less
disagreeable, is a distinctively Calcutta feature. Kali ghat. This is a temple devoted to
Kali, goddess of destruction, reputed in Hindoo lore to possess a thirst for blood, and to
appease and propitiate whom live sacrifices are made. Formerly human beings were
offered, but under British rule the custom was abolished, and kids and goats substituted.
Decapitation is the method offered, and as fast as sacrifices are brought forward, the
bleeding little things are seized by the ears, the priest makes a cutting slash with a heavy
knife, and the headless trunk is thrown to the ground. We witnessed the religious rites of
Japanese and Chinese, and we had seen the medicine-dances of the American Indians,
but nothing approaches the furious fanaticism and the frenzy of the Hindoo at Kali ghat.
Men shouted themselves hoarse, women screamed and tore each other’s clothes at the
shrine of the goddess. It took the assistance of half a dozen hired blacks to force for us
an entrance into the temple, and rushes of worshipers were so great that thrice we were
swept back ere we obtained a glimpse of the hideous deity. Her face and figure a blood
red; with multiple arms swaying like the tentacles of an octopus; her face distorted with
blood red tongues; a necklace of skulls about her throat, the goddess Kali is indeed the
representation of destruction. Gross, hideous and repulsive as was the figure, the effect
was heightened by the maddened crowd, who, with wild shrieks, tossed offerings of
flowers at the fiendish idol in their effort to escape from the calamities, believed in their
pagan minds, to be brought about by neglecting to satiate the goddess' greed for
bloodshed and crime. Amid such surroundings it was not to be wondered at that our
minds reverted to the fact that “ghazi,” the assassination of Christians, is still in vogue in
India, and that one of the devout worshipers might easily plunge a knife in our backs,
and thus earn his way to Hindoo heaven with ease and glory. I can assure my readers that
we felt easier and more comfortable when once more in our gharry and the horses on a
dead run en route back to the hotel. We learned from a priest at the ghat why Calcutta is
so named, the title being a British corruption of Kalikata, the name bestowed by the
Emperor Akbar, in 1596, in commemoration of the proximity of Kali ghat. We were in
Calcutta two weeks before the cycling fraternity knew of our arrival. When they finally
discovered our presence, we floated along on a wave of popularity. Cyclists, dealers and
agents were our daily companions and callers. American machines were well-known and
liked, and wood rims and single-tube tires were looked upon with doubt, but after an
inspection of the hardest-used pair of wheels the world ever knew, wood rims and single
tubes took on the ascendency.
CHAPTER XVII.
We left Calcutta early on the morning of May 4, taking the Strand road, across the sacred
Hoogly river by means of the Jubilee bridge. We were accompanied for a brief distance
by Mr. W. S. Burke, editor of the Asian, the only legitimate sporting paper in the East. To
this gentleman were the Inter Ocean tourists indebted for maps, guidance and excellent
entertainment while in the city. He piloted us through a road shaded by magnificent palm
trees, an avenue 40 feet wide, level as a billiard table and smooth as asphalt. Mr. Burke
informed us that this was the “Grand Trunk” road, our path across India from shore to
shore. Most of our riding was done at a fast clip, in spite of the fact that we carried full
luggage cases, camera, guns, water canteens, lamps, and bells to the extent of 50 pounds
each. Only twice did we dismount in the twenty-five-mile run to Chandernagore, once to
induce a cautious gate tender at a railroad crossing to open the gates, the second time to
view the terrible cars of Juggernaut. Much has been written concerning these vehicles
and the manner in which they are hauled about on festive occasions, and in former days
crushed out the lives of hundreds of devout fanatics, who endeavored to reach heaven by
self-sacrifice. One would naturally believe that such barbaric practice had been done
away with by British rule, but such is not the case, and, despite the presence of police
and soldiery, each time the towering car is hauled out by worshipers some poor, weak-
minded wretch hurls himself under the ponderous wooden rollers.
“As the cycle lamp’s rays penetrated the gloom they revealed a large, fine cheetah, or panther, crouched in
the edge of the brush, his eyes fixed on the glare of my lamp, his fangs disclosed in deadly array.” (See
Page 94).
Burke, good-natured, fat and jolly, left us at Chandernagore, but not before a breakfast at
the same hotel where, three years ago, he had breakfasted with poor Lenz, served by the
same woman, who spoke also of “the fine little lad” who was lost in Armenia. Intense
heat made riding dangerous during the day, and after we left Burdwan, on May 5 (81
miles from Calcutta), the greater part of our progress was accomplished at night. We
never realized what Indian heat signified until now. The coolness of night offers many
inducements for bullock-cart caravans to travel, and a sharp outlook has to be
maintained for these obstacles. Our arrival at the Hotel de Paris in Benares, on May 12,
completed one-fourth the run across India, a total of 496 miles from Calcutta,
representing a succession of night rides, with stops for refreshment and rest at the
bungalows along the route. Night riding in India is the only way to avoid paralyzing
heat, but it has its terrors and dangers, and after some of my experiences in the jungle
between Delhi and Benares, I should say that if I had the trip to make over again, I
should undoubtedly trust to the mercies of the sun. We encountered leopards by the
score, and though leopards in India are not supposed to attack humans, we could not
help our misgivings at the sight of the graceful creatures, as they silently bounded their
way through the jungle.
Our arrival at the Hotel de Paris caused much excitement. The English do not read
newspapers as generally as do the Americans, and, with but one exception, not one man
around the hotel had the slightest idea who we were, where we were from, or what we
were doing. In fact, after reading the “World’s Tour for the Inter Ocean, Chicago, U. S.
A.,” as printed in large white letters on our luggage cases, many asked us politely, “Pray,
what is the meaning of the legend?” We had learned while in Calcutta that Messrs.
Lowe, Lum and Frazer, who had left England on a cycling tour of the world in 1896,
were on their way across India, and that in all probability we would meet them in
Benares. We looked forward with much pleasure to the occasion of joining hands with
cyclists who understood the hardships of great journeys in strange lands, but the meeting
occasioned us an unexpected set-back in our natural affection for fellow wheelmen. The
trio arrived on the second day of our visit in Benares, and immediately sent word that
they wanted to see me. I called upon them, and was greatly surprised to ascertain that
they looked upon Mrs. McIlrath and myself as frauds. They questioned me closely as to
my journey, and concluded by commenting upon the strangeness of the fact that they had
never heard of us before. This I did not regard as unseeming, since few of the inhabitants
of “the tight little isle” do know what is occurring in the greater part of the world not
under British taxation. Fifteen minutes' conversation with the Frazer outfit convinced me
that the new aspirants to globe-girdling honors entertained little respect for Americans in
general, and ourselves in particular. Lenz they declared emphatically a nonentity in
cycling history; Tom Stevens was totally unreliable, and as for ourselves, we had
undergone no hardships, and were comparatively new. They probably did not like
Stevens because he was the original “round the world on bicycles;” Lenz because he had
accomplished single-handed more up to the time of his death than these fellows could
accomplish over the route they had selected, if they completed their program; and Mrs.
McIlrath came in for her share of contempt because a wee, slender woman, she had
encompassed what they averred they would attempt, in a number strong enough to cross
the threshold of any earthly inferno with impunity.
Their object in circling the world was simply to make the journey, selecting the shortest,
most expeditious route, and arriving home as quickly as possible. Frazer was once a
“journalist,” he informed me, but had deserted journalism to become an author, and write
stories for a magazine called the “Golden Penny.” While I confessed knowledge to the
existence of the Strand, Pall Mall and other magazines in England, I dropped another
peg lower in the estimation of my friends because the “Golden Penny” was not included
in my list of acquaintances. The machines the cyclists rode were, of course, English
make, weighed twelve pounds more than our own, and were equipped with mud guards,
gear cases and brakes. The tires were double-tube, and the fourth pair for each machine
were now in use, while we were using the same set of single tubes placed on our wheels
in America. Their machines showed signs of wear, the front forks of each having been
broken, and now, after only one year’s use, the frames creaked painfully and the
apparatus generally looked badly “used up.” The luggage of each man was carried in a
small valise fastened on the mud guard over the rear wheel, and large tool bags hung in
the angles of the frame. Each carried a short-barreled, cheap revolver, and Lowe, the
most gentlemanly and intelligent of the trio, carried a camera. It is needless to comment
further upon these gentlemen. They announced their intention of visiting America, and
one declared, as I informed him how cordial he would find our cyclists, mayors,
governors, and even the president: “We shall not bother about Americans much; after
being entertained by the Shah of Persia, we have decided to let your American
dignitaries alone.”
We were entertained, while at Benares, in the castle at Fort Ramnagar by the Maharajah
of Benares, one of the native princes of India. His Highness sent a magnificently
appointed carriage to the hotel for us, with the proper quota of coachmen and liveried
footmen; greeted us in excellent English, and soon displayed his foreign tendencies by
direct inquiry about cycling, American foot-ball and base-ball, proudly assuring us that
he was an enthusiastic foot-ball and polo player. Nothing but our anxiety to get home led
us to decline his urgent invitation to remain his guest for a fortnight, and enjoy a jungle
hunt from the backs of trained elephants. The kindness of the Maharajah did not cease
with our visit to the palace, but each day we were the recipients of delicious fruit fresh
from his garden, and upon our departure, on May 22, we carried letters of introduction to
native gentlemen and officials along our route, who were requested to show us every
attention and furnish us desired information which would prove of interest to the readers
of the Inter Ocean at home. Still holding to the Grand Trunk road, we set out for
Allahabad. The road was lonely and monotonous, and a few miles out from Benares
there burst upon us a typical tropical tornado. In a second’s time the air was darkened
and filled with sand. Striking us from a quarter over our right shoulders, the force of the
wind pushed us along at a frightful rate. Sand struck against our goggles with a gritting
crunch, filled our nostrils and ears, and forced its way into our mouths. Leaves and twigs
struck our faces with stinging force, and shrieking and groaning under pressure of the
terrible blasts, the trees along the road threatened every moment to crush us. It was after
dusk when the storm subsided, and we found shelter in a village 25 miles away from
Benares. On May 27, in Allahabad, we were given an example of India’s fiercest heat.
Thermometers indoors, under the influence of fans, exhibited 112 degrees, and in the
sunlight open the gauge showed 165 degrees, heat almost beyond the comprehension of
Americans. We remained but one day in the oven-like hotel, starting at 4 o’clock the
next morning, riding until 9, then resting along the roadway until nightfall, making the
journey by such easy stages to Cawnpore, “the Manchester of India.”
AT MEMORIAL WELL, CAWNPORE.—(See Page 92).
Places of historical interest in Cawnpore are calculated as four in number: first, the site
of the government magazine, where Gen. Wheeler, in charge of Cawnpore forces in
1857, should have erected his fortifications of defense; second, the memorial church and
the open field south of the structure, where he did assemble his limited force and the
refugees; third, the Suttee Chowra ghat, where the massacre of the retiring troops and
civilians took place; and fourth and last, Memorial Garden, which commemorates the
massacre of the company of women and children, and the well into which the living
were cast with the dead. We left Cawnpore on Monday, June 1, for Lucknow, one of the
most populous cities of India, situated directly east fifty miles. We sought out the main
road without much difficulty, but for the first seven miles we had any amount of trouble,
through about as rough and uneven bit of country as one could imagine. As we had left
Cawnpore at 5 o’clock in the afternoon, we had run up only 20 miles to our credit ere
darkness compelled us to light our lamps. While engaged in this operation our attention
was attracted by awful groans at one side of the roadway. Thinking some poor outcast
was dying, I selected one of the lamps and proceeded to investigate. A wide ditch barred
my progress at the edge of the road, and, mindful of the motto, “Look before you leap,” I
flashed the cycle lamp rays on the opposite side to select a favorable place to alight.
There was none in the immediate vicinity, for as the bright rays penetrated the gloom,
they revealed a large, fine cheetah, or panther, crouched in the edge of the brush, his
eyes fixed on the glare of my lamp, and his fangs disclosed in excellent array. The sight
was a rare one, but as I had learned from books all I cared to know about the habits of
wild beasts, I almost broke the lamp in my haste to extinguish it and get the ever-handy
45. Cautiously picking my way back to the wheels, Mrs. McIlrath and I made the chains
and sprocket wheels grind out a merry tune to Lucknow.
CHAPTER XVIII.
It was our idea to see the sights of Lucknow in two days and return to
Cawnpore on the evening of the second, but our plans were changed, as
Messrs. Thoburn, Robinson and Mansell, of the American Methodist
Mission, called upon us at the hotel and transferred us, bag and baggage, to
the Mission as their guests. Under their guidance we remained in Lucknow
a week. Having returned to Cawnpore, we resumed our journey on June 11,
making rapid progress, principally during the nights. Ever since entering
China, more than a year before, we had seen daily countless numbers of the
hairless, black, water buffalo. Many Europeans fear them and consider them
dangerous, but they treated us with deference until Sunday, June 20, when
we encountered a herd of the fierce-looking, cumbersome beasts while
pedaling our way to Delhi. I do not believe the buffalos had any
premeditated intention of attacking us, but as we wheeled slowly through a
drove, a calf became imbued with the idea that bicycles were dangerous. He
bolted straight down the road in front of us, running like a winner for a
quarter of a mile. Then he was attracted by some tempting green leaves, and
halted to browse upon them. As soon as we passed him, the machines which
had frightened him became an attraction, and he meekly trotted out and fell
in line behind us. The mother, who had been lumbering along in the rear,
became excited at the unusual conduct of her son, gave a few short snorts,
and set out in pursuit. Immediately the entire drove joined in the novel race,
and, with a thundering clatter of hard hoofs ringing in our ears, we realized
that we were being pursued. Faster and faster we spun along, and as native
pilgrims heard the uproar, they gave one glance at the avalanche of bicycle
and buffalo sweeping down upon them and scattered to the right and left.
We tried, by shouting and waving helmets at the calf, to drive him away, but
in vain, and the affair, which had been amusing at first, settled down into a
race for life. It is impossible, as readers know, to take to a tree when on a
cycle, so there was nothing else to do but set a pace for a crazy calf and a
drove of jealous buffalo, and for the next mile and a half we did so. How
the calf came to change his mind about joining his fortune with ours I do
not know, but a sudden cessation of the clatter behind us revealed on sight
the calf recumbent in a pool of water, with his sympathizing friends and
relatives standing by, grimly looking after us. This was the outcome of the
buffalos' end of the race; ours was garments soaked with perspiration,
panting breath, and ourselves so heated and flushed we were dizzy and
faint.
The Queen’s Jubilee, celebrated the day following our arrival in Delhi, gave
us opportunity to enjoy an illumination scene in India, and, though we
observed many well-lighted European and government employes' houses, I
should not say that the Indian is as much a lover of British rule as the
British would have others believe. The usual parade of soldiery and police
was the first feature of the evening, and fireworks the final. I thoroughly
enjoyed the astonishment caused by the presence of a large American flag,
flying from a staff lashed to the life-sized stone elephant which stands in the
yard of the government building, and was much amused at the inscriptions
on the red cloth banners which the natives hung over their doorways. They
read, “Welcome to India;” “Welcome to Delhi,” and a rather suggestive few
read, “God bless the Prince.” It was a few moments before it dawned on me
that the inscriptions were originally made to please the eye of the Prince of
Wales, when that great functionary of corner-stone laying and baby
christening was doing a little globe-trotting at the English public’s expense.
Who did it, and why that American flag, in all its starry beauty, was flying
in front of a government building, were the principal questions asked by
army and police officers the next day. Delhi, as a city, was founded during
the shadowy ages, which precludes the possibility of dates, but its ruins are
visible to-day on an area ten miles wide and fifteen miles long. How often
the city has changed its site is only limited to the victories gained by
invaders of all tribes and nations. The Rome of Asia, Delhi has known its
Nero; Maharrata, Hindoo, Jain, Persian, Afghan, Mohammedan, and the
cold, unfeeling Britain, have in turn ruled over the Indian Empire from this
ancient city, and the truth has ever been proven that whosoever held Delhi
ruled India. Delhi, like many other Indian cities, offers the visitor many
interesting buildings of native structure, but so often have we viewed with
reverence and awe some superb building, only to learn that it was a tomb
for some notable departed, that the word “tomb” has become abhorrent.
India will linger in our memory chiefly as one vast group of mausoleums,
set in an arid desert and scorched by the fires of a sun fierce as the furnaces
of Sheol.
The exposure to heat, from which the Inter Ocean cyclists were suffering
daily, led to Mrs. McIlrath’s serious condition, which prevented our
departure from Delhi on June 24, the day upon which we had made our
arrangements to leave. With face swollen so that her eyes were half-closed,
her skin was entirely covered with tiny pimples. Small-pox would not have
presented a more pitiable sight, but experts pronounced the case prickly
heat, and beyond advising perfect rest, cool drinks and hot baths, declared
that nothing could be done to drive away or reduce the swelling. Under
these conditions we were unable to proceed until July 1, but with the
delightful attentions shown us by Mr. and Mrs. Aitkin of the Delhi Morning
Post, and Major Mainwaring, of the Native Infantry, time did not hang
heavily upon our hands. We swung into the main road at 6 o’clock one
morning, taking the Grand Trunk once more, and following its course due
north. Karnaul, the city which we should have reached the night before, had
it not been for the stiff head winds, we entered at 8 o’clock the following
morning, just in time to escape a downfall of rain which detained us until
the next day. A second reminder of the plucky little Lenz we found in the
register book of the Karnaul dak bungalow, which read, “F. G. Lenze,
October 10, 1893, arrived six p. m. Departed six a. m., October 12,
American Bicyclist.” Strange as it may seem, this was only the second
instance in which we found trace of Lenz, though in China, Burmah and
India we traveled in all over four thousand miles on identically the same
route.
CHAPTER XIX.
From Karnaul we journeyed steadily north, head-winds baffling attempts at speed, and
showers and sand storms retarding us for hours. In several instances, we were compelled
to journey along the railway line, the rains having swollen the river to such an extent that
the roads were flooded. Umballa, a large military station midway between Delhi and
Lahore, we reached on the morning of July 3, and again delayed by rain, were forced to
spend the glorious Fourth in that city. Unfortunately for me, the dak bungalow was
situated within the cantonment lines, and when I arose at daybreak, prepared to fire a
salute of twenty-one shots, the gentle-mannered coolie servant gave a terrified look at
the gun and bolted for the cook-house. Before I could fire once, a soldier called to me
not to shoot unless I wished to be carted off to the guardhouse for violating military
orders, which prohibit firing within the cantonment. Undoubtedly I would have been
arrested on the charge of discharging firearms inside the lines, creating a disturbance,
and possibly treason, and I dread to think of the effect my explanation of celebrating the
Fourth of July would have had on an Englishman, especially an army officer, who might
have lived on “Cornwallis Road.” Rain fell throughout July 5, on which day we were
able to cover only eighteen miles, halting for the night at the little village of Rajpur.
Such a small settlement has little need for a dak bungalow, and in consequence, travelers
who are so unfortunate as to be compelled to seek shelter for the night, take up quarters
at an ancient building owned, but unoccupied, by the Rajah of Petialla. Mrs. McIlrath
declared the building was an “old cobra trap,” and constantly on the watch for scorpions
and snakes, it was but natural that when we retired our dreams were of reptiles.
Several times in the night I was awakened, the last time, along toward morning, by a
severe pain in my left leg. Paralyzed with the thought of the deadly krite and cobra bite,
and the absolute certainty of death resulting in from five to fifteen minutes, I lay calm
and rigid for a moment, thinking I was the victim of a dream, but the smarting in my leg
continued, and I called to my wife, exclaiming that I had been bitten. She was awake in
an instant, and lighting the lamp, we looked around for the cobra. Though we could find
no possible trace of a snake, there were on my leg six small punctures, arranged in a
semi-circle. For an hour we waited for indications of snake poison in my system, but
none appeared. Several times I imagined the choking sensations which precede complete
asphyxia, were attacking my throat, but a gulp of water or a puff at my cigarette
dispelled this illusion, and at the end of sixty minutes I was compelled to admit that my
experience with the cobra had turned out a dismal failure. I cannot to this day offer any
possible explanation of my wounds, unless they were inflicted by Rodney, the pet
monkey which we made our traveling companion 200 miles back. The “monk”
occasionally crept up on my bed to avoid the ants and insects which swarmed over the
ground and floors, and it may have been that after making himself comfortable, I had
disturbed him and he retaliated by biting the offending leg. Few persons who have not
visited India during the Summer rains, can realize what danger there is from poisonous
reptiles, chiefly the krite and cobra, and how the dreaded things creep into the most
unusual places, just where one would never think of being cautious. In one village of
400 inhabitants, through which we passed, five persons died from snake bites during the
five days preceding our arrival. Unlike the rattler, the krite and cobra give no audible
warning, except a slight hiss, and directly opposite is the effect of the bite. While the
rattler’s poison acts on the blood, it may be mitigated by ligation above the wound and
the free use of alcohol, but the cobra and krite wounds act directly upon the nerves,
producing paralysis and asphyxia, and despite all legends to the contrary, the bite of
either reptile, if the fangs are intact, is as surely fatal as decapitation. There is not a
remedy known which will even prolong life after the bite has been inflicted.
Cities of considerable size, evidently prosperous and well-kept, are many and frequent
along the Trunk road in Punjab, and under an excellent system of irrigating canals, crops
appear vigorous and abundant. The native method of raising water from the canals into
field-ditches is a novelty to the eyes of the Westerner, and language would never
describe the squeaking water wheel, with earthen pots in place of buckets, and the slow-
plodding, patient bullocks that revolve the wheel. “Persian Wheels,” the primitive
machines are called, and though winds are strong and almost perpetual, no one appears
to consider the old way inefficient, and harness wind and water with one of the powerful
wind engines which dot the prairies of the United States. India is a close second to China
in adhering to native customs, and after a journey of fifteen hundred miles, made
through the country, in such a manner as to mingle with and know the people, I am of
the opinion that the English who govern India, are but a trifle less conservative, and that
what broad ideas of improvement they do possess, that would materially improve the
natives' condition without benefiting the government revenue, are never allowed to
develop and expand. India is not governed by the English with any philanthropic ideas,
and when one has spent a few months poring over financial reports and statistics, tax
lists and penal codes, the idea is firmly fixed in the mind that India is governed by the
English for England.
AT THE DAK BUNGALOW AFTER A LONG RUN.—(See Page 97.)
I have already spoken of the risk a white person incurs in India by being exposed to the
rain. Fever is almost certain to follow, and the morning after our arrival in Lahore, I
found Mrs. McIlrath with a temperature of 104 degrees, and every symptom of malaria.
Though I struggled through the day, caring for her, when I laid down at night, the ache in
my muscles and joints, and the fire which raged internally, warned me I was a victim
also, and for the next week we lay side by side, comparing temperatures and consoling
one another. To be stricken with fever in India is one of the most terrible punishments
nature can visit upon the violators of her laws, and all day and all night through we lay
without the cooling drinks, the ripe fruits and the delicacies and attentions which ease
and encourage the patient at home. By Saturday, July 17, we were able to sit up and
totter about the room, and immediately began to obtain strength by carriage rides in the
cool evening air.
Lahore does not possess temples, mosques and tombs of great architectural merit, but its
chief charm lies in the enormous bazaars which extend for miles through the main streets
of the city. The buildings are two-story affairs, built of brick and covered with a staff,
which, at a time long ago, was white in color. The shops are merely square rooms, with
open fronts; the goods piled on the floors and hung from the ceiling in such a manner as
to prevent walking about without danger to stock and inspector. A few of the shops bear
sign-boards, painted in English letters. One in particular that attracted my attention,