AUTODESK Instructables 3D Printer Cantilever C3Dtin By gygtp nahn Pictng Put your old NetGear Route io good use. The idea ofthis buld was to build a low budget, no fils printer that can print PLA (no heated bed). The printer is 8 cantilever printer bull on 2030 extusion and a recycled Netgear router case to contain al electronics. ‘Al axis move over Linear guide rails which provide the accuracy ofthis printer. Theres ite gve in these Linear al ‘The ofginal thought was to go withthe standard Ramps 14 ki but due to its slacked hight | ended up going wih a hea <=52 0 cantor board Each ofthe axis are bul using 3030 aluminum extrusion. each of which ends up being ifs own linear actuator (more on this later) ‘The entre printer was designed in Fusion 360, prior to implementation In this instructable, | wil walk you through the diferent materials used fortis build | wil provide all STL les forthe 3D printed components of tis buld ‘andl algo provide the entre design via GrabCad,.com ‘The main topics ofthis implementation willbe the actual bull, the installation of the electronics and lastly the configuration ofthe sofware.Step 1: Materials ted to keop the cost down to some extend but did not have to patience to go through China, Most pats were ordered off of Amazon and EBay. 1am an fate so you want to help me out, use the links provided, ‘Tne backbone of this printer is 3030 Aluminum extrusion. The design requires approximatly 1200mm. Tobe sate (since you wil need to cut this) Ia order ‘more, Your best bat iso ordr ths from Ebay.com, 80/20 3030 series! Linear Ralls 3 x250 mm Stopper Motors (1.74) (You can get away wih ighter ones) lalors 2 5-packs (or the linear actuators). Belt Pulleys (16 teth) S-pack (you coud also get the 20 teeth) v6 Hotend (bowser). (You can go forthe real E3d but that would blow my budget) KFB2.0 Controller board (Substitute for RAMP 1.4 Ki, ast doesn ft) DRVBE25 Stopper Motor Driver (5 pack), Leo 12864: ‘Bed 200%200 (220x220 actual) nor-hested: (you could go with heated bed but would require aditional power) "NetGear Casewiay (the design is based on dimension of NetGear FSV318, could be changed though) MKB Extrude: Cables for Stepper motors Power Brick 12V 8A 96W (comes witn adapter hat fs netgear power input Fitamont (PLA) | ie ond up using a litle ABS forthe Hotend bracket. Everything elge is PLA, G12 Timing bo. USB Connector! {optional but makes fr nicer rsh) CCreult Board: {optoinal to ada jsx connectors. Gables could go directly to KFB82.0 Board)‘Square Nuts M3 Amazon $5.99 (only need 7) Hox nuts M3 amazon $7.08, T.nut 30 series (m8) 100 pack Amazon $13.99 (Again only naed 3) ‘Temut 30 series (m3) 50 pack AleXnress $8.78 (yu can get them fom amazon in 10.packs for way more but fester) Pan head screws M3 30mm Amazon $8.72 (only need 20) Hex socket screws of various sizes Amazon $13.09 JST 2.54 connectors (2//45I6) Amazon $9.99 (the KF82.0's all JST connectors. You may have to crimp your wires accordingly. Cable wire Wrap (4m) Amazon $8.18 3030 Corner Bracket (come in 10 pack) Amazon $10.99 (only need 2) ‘As you can see things start ading up (Ils over $400). One has tobe realistic hat alhe litle tems matter and cost money. Ive tied to represent as close as possible all the items needed for ths Bul if you have time and patience many of these items ean be found on AlExpress.com fr much much less, Delivery times can run up to several weeks, 80 ‘again, paience isthe name ofthat gameStep 2: Linear Actuators ra) rhe oy . Allthes axis are based on the same design and are in fact standalone linear actuators tat could be used for any purpose. Components needed for each of the actuators: Linear Rail (for his design 250mm but could be longer) 2090 Aluminum extrusion (375mm for Z-axis, 220mm for X-Axis and 220 for Y Axis) f you go with longer near ail then go with more extrusion. ‘Stepper motor wth belt pulley for each actuator. In this design | used 1.7A stepper but think you can easily go with 1A steppers. End.stop for each actuator The ond stops are Gowoops 5 PCS of Machanieal Endstop Switch with Cable, The cases in which they are attached aro to bo 30 printed G72 timing ble 3 idlers to guide the GT? bet End casings forthe actuator to be 80 printes6 pan head 30mm m3 serow ‘Based on the Axis diferent tnear guide sider Connectorsbat tensioner 30 printer es fr each of the axis are: Xe + IdlerCapFront (Miron st 5 talerCapBack (Miron)! + NomaCapFront (Mire) st NemaCapBack (Miro st + EndStopCasox st 1 HoténdAdaptor st 1 HoténdBracket st + LinearadaptorTensionClp.s (2x) Yeats + Ietoraperontst, llerCapBackst! NemaCapFront (Miron st + NemaGapBack (Miro) st + EndStopCaso¥ st LinearadapterY st LinearAdapterTensionClip st (2x) Zaais: + IleCapFront(Miror st 2 erCapBack (Miron) tl + NemaCapFront (Miron st + NomaCapBack (Miro st + LinearAdapterz st + LinearAdaptorTonsionCip.s (2) AdustabletnsStopCasez. st ‘AdjstableEndStopWheel st ‘AdustableEndStopWheelHouseBottom st! AdjustableEndStopWheelHouseTop st ‘The Nema Endcaps are connected via @ 30mm pan head screw (wih idler in between) and 4 pan head screw connecting the Nema Stepper moto. Inthe back caps there is space fo place hex rus. ‘Once you've connected all the idler (hwo Inthe End caps and one in the Noma caps) and attached the Nema Stepper moter to the Nema caps, you can ‘weave the GT2 bal through (and around the pulley) ane pul bth ends up to bo Linea al sider. Koop several inches past the lncar sider on each end as you willbe wrapping them around the tension clips ang insoting thes ina the adapter. | have found it easiest o do this with lt of slack, then connect the adapter othe ser with four hex Socket screws (Bmm) and only tghlen one side of the bel. With pliers you can now tighten tne elton the other side (untl the belts eal ight) and screw the remaining screws. The end-stop casings are areal close fit to the actual end stops. Make sure you connect the wiing prior to sliding he end stop inthe case. The case can than be allaches fo the extruson wih a T-nut and 20mm hex socket screwStep 3: The Case |used a netgear v3 18 Router asthe base fr the printer. I can hol he electronics and comes equipped wih an ont button as well as @ power connection In order to prepare the case, l opened the case and cu the cult board next tothe power adapter leaving the board wit the ono swich and power adapter. | did some rewiring to get plus and minus wires that can originate from the power adapter and can be switches onlff wih the existing switch. This does Fequie the ably to use a vll mote and to solder to igure ou where and how to connect the new wiring \ created a conraller board base that uses the existing screw holes in the Nota the wiring (via jst connetors. 5 case and allows for the addition ofa circuit board thal can connect all ‘The Yeaxs is connected via two 80 printed brackets that can be screwed into the case (by means of hex socket screws and nuts) and in turn wraps around the extrusion, to be connected via 4 nuts and "5mm Nox socket serows, ‘The 3D printed items fortis stop are: + bodyClamp st + bodyClamp_2.st 1 MotherBoardBracket stStep 4: Electronics For this implementation | anded up using a KINGPRINT KFB2.0 Controle Board (for Raprap Mandel PrusaI2 Kossel 20 Printer) | had Usual RAMPS 1-4 ki but gured out quickly enough that stacked up it would exceed the height ofthe Router case (intended to hold the [tthe time of ordering the KFB2.0 there was no documentation, whatsoever, to be found on tBu k seemed tobe simpy everything that was on @ RAMPS 1.4 shold (and then sora) and fr less than $20 I felt was worth a ty ‘Tums out Im pretty pleased witht t does exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 shield and takes the same sofware Iti basically an Arduino Mega 2560 with al the connectors needed for stepper drivers and al other 3D printer related connections. This board can actually ake 24 Volt (as opposed to only 12V forthe RAMPS 1.4) ‘The only diference is alte connectons. These are allST 2.54 connectors and thus I id end up crimping a lt of wires. The stepper motor wires I put in the material Est already use JST 254 so that should make itis bit easier. In the case of my implementation | deced to leave all connections outsie ofthe box and prepared a cxcult boars with JST connetors for X.Y, Z steppers and end stops, Extrider,notend and thermistor. |i room for possibly a second extruder. \ had hope that wing the way ei, | could easly open the case ard get lo the slectronics. As you can see in the images, | can do that to some extend but ‘pening and elosing the case isa potty baht ft In order to pass through the wies forthe LCD, I had to saw open one ofthe side gaps. The LCD wiring fs nicely. | also added a secondary connect for my power bic that I can reach when the ease isha open. Optional but handy.When adaing the stepper driver 1 stops. on forge to insert the proper jumpers (ll thee for each driver) to get the mast accurate steps for this configuration Make sure the divas have ther potentia-matar screw pointing towards the Main Board Chip (eee images), Insarting them the wrong way belive wil ry compart Beyond ropa, The same goos forthe End stop connections. The signal is towards the outside ofthe board ‘Most connections are prnteg onthe boom of this particular controller board, se check i out frst prior to serewing the Board down, I included an STL fora case that can bo used to house the LCD. tve let open inthe back as I havent fgured out | want to connect it somehow to the case ori want To leave itloose (pick up when operating i). LCD Case: LeDCase stStep 5: Bed and Assembly [Atiis point all components tothe printer are in place. Al that islet to complet the bul is assembly. The printer bed is supporied by a 30 printer frame on which an aluminum bed can be added (via screws and springs) ‘The MKB Extruder can be attached to the Z-axis with the provider Extruder Bracket: ExruderBrackot stl ‘The STL forthe 3D printed bed is: BedFrame.st ‘All that is lof isto attach al vee axis to each othor an tothe case subsoquenty ‘The X-Auls fs altached toto Z-Axis via the Linear adapter on the Z-Axis by means of three GM t-nuis and 3 MS Hex socket serews (10mm) ‘The Z-Axis is attached to the Y-Axis vi a "bridge" using 3030 Extrusion and 2 corner brackets. It may take some offort and a water lvel to make sure the connections make perfect 90 degree angles. Not pstng in that efor may make for some wonky pris.Step 6: Software Setup ‘The KingPrint KF82.0 board runs matin 1.1.8 software which can be downloaded at bioslothub.comMantinFiamwareiMarin (Once loaded local it wil bul 1d some configuration to got to work wth this print ‘Most changes wil be made tothe configuration. fl attached) changes: Endstops require inverting define XN 005102 LAWERTING tous et to true ko Jovert the Topic of the erstefine ¥ MM EADSIOP_LWERTING tre // Set to trae to Savere th ‘eps based on 1/16 and 16 teeth and MKB extruder fHdofine DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT (100, 100, 00, 92.6) ‘Since the bed is only supported by the near slider, there wil be more vibrations. The Jerk needs to be pushed down (maybe even furher than the rumbere shown} bbased on curren build (this may difer based on stepper wiring) Metine twerr=ein false we based on the current build and i's dimension | had tose the X Y and Z boundries 11 Teawel Lenses after honing (urste are $9 an) eorsadetine XJ0N_905 -17 ‘Since my end slop are outsde the bounds of the bed | need to change the manual home settings Ui Manutiy set the none position. Leave these Undefined for autoatle se ‘Turn on Full graphies LCD and SD card suppor Enable the proper LCD Because the Z-axis belt ven (wheroas most ae lead screw driven) lend up wth an issue when a prints stopped. f click STOP PRINT (or even if pints done) the Z-Axis wl ose power ane cop like a rock. This can damage your prior in worse case shater your bed. For this! made some changes tothe more hidden code. \Whenever a S0_FINISHED_RELEASECOMMAND is issued power is éroppad to all stopper which for his pintr can be bad (dropping Z-axis). ‘expanded the code in Coniguration_advh to aad to more command in that event \also changed the release command to NOT drop power an the Z-Axs stepper. Now when the stop command is executed, the printer wi fist home to XDYO (which should get out ofthe way of any print. Subsequently the printer homes to 20 and then drops power to X and ¥ (not 2). In the stepper.cop fle the code has been changed to execute these new commands. fdet 5o_FOMISHED,ALEASECOMANDADN> 4 (IcLeaning_tutfer counter 8 (S0_FINISAE_ STEP igueuard.eche comands PSIR(SDFASHLE fwrveCnMA)} ELAS) (nqunu_ and eeno_connandeP(PSIR(SO_FEWSHED_AOMECOMANE)): nae” ard_seho_enmands_PEPSTR(SH_FIMSHED_AELEASECOMINE)): 2 NEMT-1S8(209); 1) Run a rae spend = 20 82 BLE ISIS)) // revenable 1588 ‘These are all the changes that wore made lo make this printer run Step 7: Conclusion ‘So this was alt took to bulé the Cantilever printer | set out fo build, The materials ist believe is compte but mostly sourced from Amazon. The bulls can be lot cheaper you aig litle deeper into AlExpress. The printer performs fine forthe budget twas bul on. Having the entre bed rest ona single linear slider isa bit of a stretch but seems 1 workStep 8: STL Files and Design ‘ILD printed pars that have been referenced inthis build can be found inthe uploaded STL, Files zip, The rir design can be downloaded from GrasCad at htigsorabcad comlibrarycantlover-3 All toms where printed on another custom bull printer of mine, That one i abit more complicated than this bull but maybe one day Il create an instructable forit a well you tked this check out my other instrucables or visit my website at htios/core8etech Update: The Linear Rails ve been using have hole spacing o 15mm x20mm spacing. Many calls come with 20mm x 20mm spacing. Ive uploaded HolendAdapter”2020 sland LineatAdaplerY 20x20 fr these ral,