NORTHERN TECHNICAL COLLEGE

AUTOMOTIVE/HEAVY EQUIPMENT REPAIR

DEPARTMENT

HER LEVEL 1

WORKSHOP PRACTICE

MOTOR VEHICLE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

LECTURER: P. MANDONA
 ©Nortec2015

PROJECT: VEHICLE SERVICE

Service information is usually found in the vehicle manufacturer’s manual or

driver’s handbook. Routine serving prolongs the life of the machine and certain
faults and malfunctions are picked during servicing. Oil sampling may be done
during services drawn from various units of the machine such as the engine,
transmission, hydraulics and final drives. Oil analysis will give an idea as to the
condition of the component where the oil was drawn.

ENGINE OIL

OIL DETERIORATION

Oil deteriorates with use and requires changing. Deterioration of oil occurs mainly
due to contamination and breakdown.

EXTERNAL CONTAMINATION

The hard particles may enter through dust induced into the air-intake-system
crankcase breather, and may come from metallic particles worn away from moving
parts and casting sand still remaining in the engine after manufacture. Small pieces
of dirt may also enter the engine while changing the oil filter, removing the rocker
cover when checking tappet clearances, or any other servicing which requires the
removal of engine components and exposes the inside of the engine, e.g. removal
of the cylinder head, timing gears and chain, distributor drive, etc. Oil may also be
contaminated with coolant.

COMBUSTION CONTAMINATION

The most common type of contamination, however, is from the blow-by gases,
which work their way past the piston and rings. If crankcase ventilation is poor and
the engine is cool, blow-by gases remain in the crankcase and mix with the oil. The
constitutes of blow-by gas primarily are partially burned fuel and water vapour.
Unburned fuel dilutes the oil. The highly acidic water formed due to combustion
causes rusting and corrosion. Both combine with polymerised and oxidised
hydrocarbons, produced during combustion, undergo further change in the oil and
form sludge, binders that hold organic solids, inorganic salts, wear particles, and
fuel soot together. When these particles accumulate sufficiently large, they drop out
of the oil and deposit in the engine as a cold-engine sludge.

In diesel engines, the sulphur in the fuel while burning with oxygen produces
sulphureous acids. Small amounts of these acids may drain down the cylinder walls,
mix with the oil, and attack the bearing materials.

INTERNAL CONTAMINATION
Contaminants may be formed within the engine itself. The oil oxidises over long
periods of time, due to high working temperature of the oil in the piston region.
Oxidation is the process of the oil combining with the oxygen in the air at elevated
temperatures. Higher the oil temperature, the more rapid is the rate of oxidation.

Oxidation causes thickening of the oil and formation of varnishes sometimes known
as lacquer deposits. These deposits may occur on the piston rings and in the
grooves, eventually causing the rings to stick so that compression pressure is lost.
This causes a loss of power and an increase in fuel consumption. Since some of the
products of oil oxidation are acidic it may corrode journal bearing materials.

OPERATING CONDITIONS

The amounts of sludge and deposits to a large extent depend on the mode of
vehicle operation. Long journey keeps the engine working over a narrow and
designed temperature range. This produces efficient combustion, due to which by-
products from burning and water formation are at a minimum. Short running
produces high levels of unburnt hydrocarbon products and moisture, and crankcase
condensation, which dilute the oil and destroy the lubricating properties of the oil.
Like engine oil, its additives also tend to deteriorate and are used up along with the
oil at high tempereatures. When they can no longer do their designed job, the oil
loses some of its necessary properties. Engine oil should be changed before sludge
develops, oxidised deposits form, and additives lose their effectiveness.

LUBRICATING SYSTEM SERVICING

COMMON PROBLEMS

HIGHER OIL CONSUMPTION

The main factors affecting oil consumption are engine speed and engine wear.
Engine temperature increases at high speed due to which the oil viscosity
decreases. The low viscosity oil can pass at higher rate through piston rings into the
combustion chamber where it is burned. High speed can cause ring shimmy or ring
float. Under this condition the oil control rings cannot function effectively.
Crankcase ventilation at higher speeds
causes more air to pass through the crankcase due to which more oil is lost in the
form of mist. At high speeds more oil is fed through the crankcase to the connecting
rod journals.
Oil consumption increases with engine parts wear. Worn bearings throw more oil on
the cylinder walls. Oil control rings do not perform perfectly on the worn cylinder
wall and hence more oil is admitted into the combustion chamber where it burns
and fouls spark plugs, valves, rings, and pistons. Worn intake-valve and exhaust-
valve guides increase oil consumption. Therefore worn parts are to be repaired or
replaced accordingly to bring down the oil consumption to the recommended level.

ERRATIC OIL PRESSURE INDICATION

If sometime light glows, or the gauge shows low pressure reading, then either there
is less oil in the crankcase or the oil pickup is inconsistent. If light stays on all the
time, or the pressure gauge constantly reads low, then the causes may be
(i) a weak relief-valve spring,
(ii) a defective sender unit or oil pressure indicator,
(iii) a worn oil pump,
(iv) obstructed or cracked or broken oil lines,
(v) insufficient or excessively thin oil, and/or
(vi) worn bearings, which pass more oil than the pump can deliver.

Excessive oil pressure indication may be due to

(i) a clogged oil line,
(ii) excessively viscous oil,
(iii) stuck relief valve, and/or
(iv) excessively strong valve spring.

SYSTEM MAINTENANCE

CHECKING OIL LEVEL

Checking of oil level using a dipstick is described in section 11.13.2. While checking
the oil level, the vehicle should be on a level surface and the engine should be
stopped. If the engine has just been shut off, then some time should be allowed for
the oil to drain back into the oil pan. The appearance of oil should be noticed to
check whether it is dirty, thin or thick. The oil is rubbed between the thumb and
finger to check for dirt. If oil is dirty or thin it should be drained and clean oil should
be filled. If oil level is less, oil should be added to the required level.

CHANGING OIL

The oil additives become depleted as the vehicle is driven. The antioxidant additive
is used up which may cause thick tar-like deposits in the engine. The corrosion and
rust inhibitors become depleted, and corrosion begins to take place on the bearing
surfaces. The oil in slowly contaminated with carbon. In some cases moisture
gradually forms sludge in the oil.
Oil change intervals are based on the time or mileage, whichever occurs first. It is
very important to change the oil at the manufacturers’ recommended intervals to
maintain engine internal cleanliness and long engine life. Older vehicles usually
have shorter recommended oil change intervals. When the oil is changed it is very
important to follow the manufacturers’ recommended oil classification and viscosity
rating.

The engine should be at normal operating temperature before oil is drained from
the crankcase. This helps for complete drainage of oil with contaminates. To change
the engine oil, the vehicle is put on a lift. An oil drain pan is placed in position and
the drain plug is removed from the oil pan. After oil is drained, the plug is installed
and the vehicle is lowered. Then oil is filled in the crankcase.

SERVICING THE OIL FILTER

As per the recommendation of the manufacturer the oil filter should be serviced or
replaced regularly for long life of the engine. Normally oil filter is serviced with the
first oil change and then after every other oil change. Some filters have replaceable
elements, and with full-flow oil filters, which are commonly used, the filter element
and container are replaced as a unit. A new filter should always start out with new
oil.
With the old filter off, the recess and sealing face of the filter bracket should be
wiped with a clean shop towel. Then, the sealing gasket of the new filter should be
coated with oil.

The seal on the new oil filter should be lubricated with a small amount of clean
engine oil before the filter is installed. When the new oil filter is installed, it should
be tightened by rotating it about one half-turn after the seal makes contact with the
mounting plate.

SERVICING OIL PUMP AND RELIEF VALVE

Oil pumps require very little service in normal operation. If pump is badly worn, the
pump is to be removed and disassembled. The pressure relief valve should be
removed and checked to make sure that it is moving freely. Springs of different
tension may be required to be installed to change the regulating pressure in the
relief valve.
If the rotor or the pump housing is worn to the point where the end play exceeds
specifications, one or the other must be replaced. The clearance between the inner
and outer rotors, and that between the outer rotor and the pump housing should be
measured and if the clearance exceeds the specification replacement of specific
part or the total pump is necessary.
Similar is the case with the gear-type pump. The oil pump pickup should be checked
for a plugged screen and air leaks.

Oil pressure testing

SERVICING OIL PRESSURE INDICATORS

If the oil indicator light does not come on when the ignition switch is turned on, the
wire at the pressure switch should be removed and grounded. If the bulb does not
come on, the bulb, fuse, or connecting wires have an open circuit. When the oil
indicator bulb is illuminated with the pressure switch wire grounded, but does not
come on with the wire connected to the switch, the pressure switch is defective.
When the oil indicator light is on with the engine running, the engine should be
stopped and the oil level in the crankcase should be checked. If the crankcase oil
level is correct, the oil pressure should be tested by removing the
pressure switch and installing a pressure gauge in place of the switch. If the oil
pressure equals or exceeds the manufacturer’s specifications, a defective oil
pressure switch must be the cause of the illuminated oil light. A low oil pressure
reading indicates a defect within the engine and the oil pump should be checked
first.

ENGINE OIL AND FILTERS CHANGE

PROCEDURE

1. Thoroughly clean the machine due for service, remove mud, dust and debris
that may be on the machine.
2. Warm up the engine:-oil flows more readily when hot and is best drained
after the engine has been warmed up.
3. Pack the vehicle on a flat surface, choke the wheels and remove the (-ve)
battery terminal.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Loosen the plug with an appropriate wrench and finally by hand allowing the
oil drain into the container.
6. If the drain plug is magnetic, observe what has been attracted on the plug. if
negligible, just clean the drain plug and plug hole and refit the plug firmly.
7. Dispose off the drained oil in designated places.
8. Fill the oil sump with recommended oil. The capacity and grade of oil required
will be given in the handbook.
9. Take out the dip stick, wipe the end, and wait for a few minutes to allow oil to
reach the sump then check the level. Add oil to correct level.
10.Refit the filler cap.

FILTER REMOVAL (CATRIDGE, SPIN ON)

11.Although they are fitted hand tight, most cartridge canisters require a strap
wrench to remove.
12.Remove the filter from the mounting base; wipe oil off the base in readiness
for fitting new filter.

INSTALLING NEW FILTER

13.Lubricate the oil seal on the new filter with clean engine oil.
14.Screw the filter into position by hand until the seal makes firm contact.
 15.Replace the battery terminal and start engine:-the oil pressure light will stay
on a little longer than usual as the filter fills up.
16.Check for oil leaks around the filter.
17.Check oil level; add oil to level if necessary.

BOWL TYPE FILTER CHANGE.

Follow same safety procedure.

1. Remove bolt holding top cover to the filter housing.

2. Remove filter element from the housing.
3. Clean cover and filter housing, install new seals.
4. Insert new element.
5. Position top filter housing cover and tighten the bolt.
6. Start up engine and check for leaks.

NB:-leaks are usually caused by a loose securing bolt, or an improperly seated or

twisted seal ring.

2. OIL COOLERS

OBJECTIVE: On completion of this lesson, the learner will be able to service the oil
cooler.

LEARNING ACTIVITY: - Service oil cooler.

INTRODUCTION

An oil cooler is one of the components whose main function is to remove excess
heat from the engine oil.

TYPES: Air/oil coolers and Water/oil coolers

SERVICE

MATERIAL/EQUIPMENT

1. Engine complete with oil cooler

2. Lifting tools
3. Artisan’s tool kit
4. Oil drain container
5. Mutton cloth

SAFETY
When servicing oil cooler, regardless of its design, location, or the type of service to
be performed, one must proceed with care and follow the recommended
precautionary steps outlined in the service manual.

1. Clean the outside of the cooler assembly.

2. Ensure oil pressure is relieved before you start working on the oil cooler.
3. Disconnect the oil pipes from the cooler and plug the hoses and ports.

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

(a) LIQUID/OIL COOLER

Cooler using liquid coolant to cool oil

1. Cross the coolant tap.

2. Disconnect the oil connections from the cooler.
3. Remove the cooler.
4. Drain oil from the cooler.
5. Clean cooler oil passage using clean diesel or recommended solvent and
plug the ports.
6. Using compressed air, blow out any dirt in the coolant passage directing it in
the opposite direction to the flow of coolant.
7. Inspect seals and gaskets.

b) AIR/OIL COOLER

Cooler using air to cool oil

1. Disconnect cooler attachments.

2. Disconnect oil pipes from cooler.
3. Remove cooler.
4. Drain oil from cooler.
5. Clean cooler oil passage using clean diesel or recommended solvent and plug
the ports.
6. Using a steam cleaner, clean the cooler fins.

After cleaning and inspecting the cooler, reinstall the cooler in the exact reverse
order from disassembly and test ran the machine to check for leakages.

3. ENGINE OIL PUMPS

OBJECTIVE: On completion of this lesson, the learner will be able to overhaul the
engine oil pumps.

LEARNING ELEMENTS: - Service engine oil pumps.

INTRODUCTION
A pump is the heart of the engine lubrication system. It is responsible for the flow of
fluid and the power required overcoming the resistance against fluid flow. This
resistance is a combination of that due to friction within the lubrication system and
the load at the bearings.

Pumps suitable for lubrication systems are the positive displacement type. All
positive displacement pumps are designed to effectively seal between the pumping
element and the housing. The efficiency of this kind of pump is its ability to
maintain its seal at various pressures and temperatures.

MATERIAL/EQUIPMENT

1. Engine with oil pump.

2. Lifting tools
3. Artisan’s tool kit
4. Oil drain container
5. Mutton cloth

SAFETY

When servicing a pump, regardless of its design, location, or the type of service to
be performed, one must proceed with care and follow the recommended
precautionary steps outlined in the service manual.

NOTE: pump failure is evidenced by noise, driveshaft seal leakage, or a drop pump
delivery. Since any of these malfunctions may be due to one or several causes, it is
important to diagnose and correct any such failure before the pump is serviced or a
new one is fitted.

Oil pumps will normally give good performance over a long period of time when
operating in a properly maintained system:

1. Using clean and correct grade of oil.

2. Regular filter changes.
3. Frequent inspection of all hydraulic system components.

TASK: OIL PUMP - REMOVE

1. Remove sump.
3. Remove timing cover.
4. Remove oil cooler adapter - if fitted.
5. Remove oil pressure relief valve plug, discard sealing washer.
6. Withdraw pressure relief valve spring and valve.
7. Remove oil pressure switch, discard sealing washer.

8. Remove bolts securing oil pump cover.

9. Remove cover, remove and discard gasket.

10. Withdraw oil pump gears.

TASK: OIL PUMP - REFIT

1. Lubricate relief valve, spring, and bore in housing with clean engine oil.
2. Fit relief valve and valve spring.
3. Fit new sealing washer to plug, fit plug and tighten to correct torque.
4. Pack oil pump housing with Petroleum Jelly.

CAUTION: Use only Petroleum Jelly, no other grease is suitable.

5. Fit oil pump gears ensuring that Petroleum Jelly is forced into every cavity
between teeth of gears.
CAUTION: Unless pump is fully packed with Petroleum Jelly it may not prime itself
when the engine is started.

6. Fit new pump cover gasket.

7. Position cover, fit bolts and tighten progressively to correct torque.
8. Fit oil cooler adapter.
9. Fit timing cover.
10. Fit distributor.
11. Fit sump.

GEAR PUMPS

A gear pump is one of the reliable hydraulic pumps. It is robust and lasts long.

SAFETY PRECAUTION

Before removing oil pump, first relief system hydraulic pressure and clean the
machine.

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

1. Clean the area around the pump.

2. Disconnect hydraulic hoses from the pump and plug both ports and hoses.
3. Remove pump mounting bolts and remove pump from the block.
4. Mount pump on a fixture.
5. Mark pump’s housing segments.
6. Remove pump mounting bolts.
7. Remove the pump housing cover to expose the gears.
8. Mark meshing gears and using hands remove both driven and the driving
shaft at once with a quick motion.
9. Remove the pump bearing.
10.Clean all disassembled parts in correct solvent.

CAUTION

1. Don not use screw driver or chisel to try apart the pump sections. Use soft
hammer.
2. Do not remove the seals unless replacement seals are available.

INSPECTION

1. Check housing for cracks.

2. Check seals for damage.
3. Check shafts and gears for damage.
4. Check seals for damage.

PUMP MEASUREMENTS
(A) TIP CLEARANCE

1. Assemble back the seals and bearings in the housing.

2. Reassemble the drive shaft and gear then the driven gear.
3. Using a correct thickness of filler gauge, measure tip clearance by inserting a
filler gauge blade between the tip of the gears and the pump housing.
4. Compare it with the manufacturer’s recommendation.

(b) END FLOAT

1. Measure pump’s gear to cover clearance by placing a straight edge across

the top side of the gears as shown.
2. Using a correct blade of filler gauge, measure the clearance and compare it
with the manufacturer’s specification.

(c) TOOTH CONTACT

1. Measure tooth contact by placing a correct bade of filler gauge between the
meshing teeth.
2. Compare the measurement with the manufacturer’s specification.
REASSEMBLY

Lubricate all components and replace all worn or damaged parts before reassembly.

1. Assemble seals, bearings and both shafts in their correct meting order.
2. Fit back end plate.
3. Refit the pump back unto the machine.
4. Refit the hoses.
5. Check hydraulic oil and top up if necessary.
6. Test ran the machine and check for leakages.

VANE PUMP

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

1. Clean the pump external parts.

2. Mark the pump housing segments.
3. Remove securing bolts and remove the end plate.
4. Remove the drive shaft and rotor.
5. Remove the sliding vanes.
6. Clean all disassembled parts.

INSPECTION

1. Check pump housing for cracks and damage.

2. Check seals for damage.
3. Check rotor for cracks and signs of wear.
4. Check sliding vanes for damage and signs of wear.
5. Check rotor and bore foe cracks and damage.
6. Check clearances as shown in Fig. 1 to 3.
 Measure the gap between the straight-edge and the surface of the vanes and
rotor using a 0.006” (0.13mm) feeler gauge.

 Check for too much clearance round each vane in its groove.

 Check the lateral clearances between the rotor assembly and the pump body.
REASSEMBLY

Lubricate all internal parts ad replace all damaged parts.

1. Assemble the vanes in the rotor.

2. Fit the rotor assembly in the housing.
3. Fit the end plate fitted with new seals.

8. SEALS AND PARKINGS

TASK: Inspect and or replace seals and parkings.

OBJECTIVE: At the end of the lesson learners will be able to disassemble, inspect
and or replace seals and parkings and reassemble any lubrication components.

LEARNING ELEMENT: - Disassemble, inspect and replace seals and parkings and
reassemble a lubrication component.

INTRODUCTION: - The function of seals and parkings is to prevent all leakages in the
lubrication system. Seals and parkings form part of the lubrication component
assembly.

TOOLS: - Artisan’s tools box, socket box, hammer, hydraulic component e.g. Pump.

DISASSEMBLE PUMPS, VALVES TO EXAMINE SEALS AND PARKINGS DESIGN.

A) TYPES OF SEALS

i. Mechanical seals: - Dynamic seals made of metal and rubber.

ii. Metallic seals: - used on pistons and piston rods similar to piston rings.
iii. Compression parkings: - Used in dynamic applications. Made of plastics,
asbestos, cloth, rubber, laminated cloth or flexible metals.
iv. O-rings: - designed to be used grooves where they are compressed between
two surfaces.
v. U and V parkings: - Dynamic seals for pistons and rod end of cylinders and for
pump shafts. Made of leather, synthetic and natural rubber, plastics and
other material.
vi. Spring-loaded lip seals: - The rubber lip is ringed by a spring which gives the
sealing lips tension against the mating surfaces.
vii. Cup and flange parkings: - Dynamic seals made of leather, synthetic rubber,
plastic and other material.
viii. Compression gaskets: - Suitable for static use. Seal by molding into the
imperfections of the mating surfaces.

B) SELECTION OF SEALS

The designer of a lubrication system has many factors to consider when choosing a
seal. Some of these are: -

i. Pressure resistance
ii. Heat resistance
iii. Wear resistance
iv. Reactivity strength to different types of oils
 v. Static or dynamic applications
vi. Type of materials used on component parts. Some materials are damaged by
hard or metal seals i.e. scored.

C) O-RING MAINTENANCE

O-rings can be easily damaged by cutting or nicks from sharp objects. They can also
be damaged by heat, improper fluids, inadequate lubrication and improper
installation.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

i. Be sure the new O- ring is compatible with the lubrication fluid.

ii. Clean the entire area of all dirt and grit before installing O-rings.
iii. Inspect O-ring grooves before installing rings. Remove any sharp edges, nicks
or burrs with a fine abrasive stone. Then re-clean the area to remove any
metal particles.
iv. Inspect the shaft or spool (if used). Sharp edges or splines can cut o-rings.
v. Lubricate the O-ring before installing it. Use the same fluid as used in the
system. Also moisten the groove and shaft using the lubrication fluid.
vi. Install the O-ring, protecting it from sharp edges or openings. Be careful not
to stretch it more than necessary.
vii. Align the parts accurately before mating to avoid twisting or damage to the
ring.
viii. Check to it that the O-ring is of the correct size to give only a slight "squeeze"
in the installed position. In dynamic use the O-ring should roll in its groove.

NOTE: when installing spool valves, be especially careful of any O-rings. The sharp
edges of the spool lands can cut the O-rig unless you are very careful.

CHECKING O-RINGS AFTER INSTALLATION

i. Static O-rings which are used as gaskets should be tightened or torque again
after the unit has been warmed up and cycled several times.
ii. Dynamic O-rings should be cycled (moved back and forth through their
normal pattern of travel) several times to allow the ring to rotate and assume
a neutral position.
iii. All dynamic rings should pass a very small amount of fluid when rotating,
which permits a lubricating film to pass between the ring and the shaft. This
film prevents scuffing of the ring, which results in short life.

MAINTENANCE OF OTHER SEALS

Modern seals use rubber, leather, plastics and other materials which require special
handling.

CHECKING SEALS FOR LEAKAGE

i. Before disassembling a component, check out the causes of leakage. This

may save a return job, caused by problems other than the oil seals.
ii. Before cleaning the area around the seal, find the path of leakage.
Sometimes the leakage may be from sources other than the seal. Leakage
 could be from worn gaskets, loose bolts, crack housings, or loose line
connections.
iii. Inspect the outside sealing area of the seal to see if it is wet or dry. If wet,
see whether the oil is running out or is merely a lubricating film.

REMOVING SEALS

i. During removal, continue to check for causes of leakage.

ii. Check both the inner and outer parts of the seal for wet oil which means
leakage.
iii. When removing the seal, inspect the sealing surface or lips before washing.
iv. Look for unusual wear, warping, cuts and gouges, or particles embedded in
the seal.
v. On spring-loaded lip seals, be sure the spring is seated around the lip, and
that the lip was not damaged when first installed.
vi. Do not disassemble the unit any more than necessary to replace the faulty
seals.

INSPECTION

INSTALLING SEALS

i. Install only genuine seals recommended by the manufacturer of the vehicle.

ii. Use only the proper fluids as stated in the vehicle operator’s manual.
iii. Keep the seals and fluids clean and free of dirt.
iv. Before installing seals, clean the shaft or bore area. Inspect these areas for
damage. File or stone away any burrs or bad nicks and polish with a fine
emery cloth for a ground finish, then clean the area to remove metal
particles. In dynamic applications, the sliding surface for the seal should have
a mirror finish for best operation.
v. Using same fluid oil, lubricate the seal, especially any lips, to ease
installation. Also soak parkings in the hydraulic fluid before installing them.
vi. With metal-cased seals, coat the seal’s outside diameter with a thin film of
gasket cement to prevent bore leakage.

COMMON KEY MAINTENANCE PROBLEMS

1. Not enough oil in the reservoir

2. Clogged or dirty oil filters
3. Loose intake lines
4. Incorrect grade of oil in the system

MAINTENANCE OF THE WHOLE SYSTEM

1. THE IMPORTANCE OF CLEANLINESS

 Keep dirty and other contaminants out of the system. Small particles
can score valves, seize pumps, clog orifices and so cause expensive
repair jobs.

REMEDIES

i. Keep the oil clean

ii. Keep the system clean
 iii. Keep your work area clean
iv. Be careful when you change old oil

2. IMPORTANCE OF OIL AND FILTER CHANGES

 Contaminants get into the system at any time during the machine
working life. These contaminants get suspended in oil. The system
filters can absorb only a limited amount of dirty particles and other
contaminants from the oil. After that the filters stop working.
 At this point, clean the filters or replace them with new ones so the
cleaning process can be maintained.

3. DRAINIG SYSTEM
 Periodical draining of the entire lubrication system is very important.
This is the only positive way to completely remove contaminants
oxidized fluid, and other injurious substances from the system.
 The frequency of draining depends on such things as the temperature
of operation and the severity of working conditions.
 The drain schedule recommended by the vehicle manufacturer should
be maintained.

4. CLEANING AND FLUSHING THE SYSTEM

 The nature and amount of deposits in a particular system may vary
widely. Inspection may show any condition between a sticky, oily film
and a hard, solid deposit which completely chokes small oil passages.
 If the system is drained frequently enough, the formation of gum and
lacquer will be reduced.
 When no gum or lacquer formation is suspended, clean the system as
follows:
i. After draining the system, clean any sediment from the sump, and clean
or replace the filter elements.
ii. It is advisable to flush out the old oil remaining in the system after
draining, particularly if the oil is badly contaminated. For this flushing,
use the lubrication oil recommended for the system involved.
iii. Operate the equipment to cycle the flushing oil through the system. It is
important that the valves be manipulated so that the new oil goes
through all lines.
iv. The time necessary to clean the system will vary depending on the
condition of the system. Run the oil through the system until inspection
shows the equipment to be in satisfactory condition, or until it is obvious
that the system will have to be disassembled and cleaned manually.
v. Drain out the flushing oil and refill the system with clean lubrication oil of
the recommended type. Be sure to clean or replace the system filters
before refilling the system.

NOTE:

 Most solvents and chemical cleaners on the market today are NOT
recommended for use in flushing lubrication system. They are poor
lubricants, resulting in damage to moving parts, especially the pump.
  They are difficult to remove completely from the system. Just a trace of some
of the commercial chlorinated solvents may be enough to break down the
oxidation resistance of even the best lubrication oils.
 In the presence of a small amount of water, some of these solvents will
corrode steel and copper

5. FILLING THE SYSTEM

 Before filling the engine, be sure the area around the filler cap is clean.
 Fill the sump to the specified level with recommended lubrication oil.
 Use clean oil and funnels or containers and be sure to replace the filler
cap before operating the equipment.
 Start the engine and warm up the lubrication system.

IMPORTANT: - always check the oil level after any repairs have been made
on the system.

6. PREVENTING LEAKS
 Leakages are caused by two basic types:
i. INTERNAL LEAKAGE
 CAUSES
 Normal wear of parts.
 Too low a viscosity because this oil thins faster at high
temperature.
 High pressures also force more oil out leaking points in the
system
ii. EXTERNAL LEAKAGE
 CAUSES
 Loose connections.
 Damaged seals and gaskets.
 Cracks in the block.

After stopping leaks in a system, be sure to sure to warm up the system and cycle
the equipment, then recheck the trouble sports to be sure the leaks are stopped.
Recheck the system oil level and replace any oil lost through leaks or broken
connections.

7. PREVENTING OVRHEATING

Heat causes engine oil to break down faster and lose its effectiveness. This is why
cooling of the oil is needed.

 Effects of overheating:
 Break down the oil properties.
 Damage the seals.
 Coat parts with varnish deposits.
 Cause extra leakage past working parts.
 Reduce the out of the system.

In many systems, enough heat is dissipated through the lines, the components, and
the sump to keep the oil fairly cool. But on high pressure, high speed circuits, oil
coolers are needed to dissipate the extra heat.
PREVENTION

 Keep the oil at the proper level.

 Clean dirty and mud from lines, sump and coolers.
 Check for dented kinked lines.
 Keep relief valves adjusted properly.
 Engine should never be overloaded.
 Control valves should never be held in power position too long.