Dental Implants Materials Coatings Surface

Modifications and Interfaces with Oral Tissues

1st Edition by Muhammad Zafar, Zohaib Khurshid
ISBN 0128196270 9780128196274 download
https://ebookball.com/product/dental-implants-materials-coatings-
surface-modifications-and-interfaces-with-oral-tissues-1st-
edition-by-muhammad-zafar-zohaib-khurshid-
isbn-0128196270-9780128196274-5750/

Instantly Access and Download Textbook at https://ebookball.com

Other documents randomly have
different content
 CHAPTER LVI
Daffodil and Other Bulbs

“G OOD!” Bob approved as Billy paused, “that’s a splendid

lecture, Bill.”
“Isn’t it?” cried Eleanor. “I believe we know almost
everything now about planting bulbs.”
“What kinds are we going to plant?” asked Mary
Frances, looking at the large package the boys had
brought with them.
They opened it and Bob began to speak: “Young
ladies,” he commenced; then, “Oh, I say, Bill, I can’t
come this ‘professor act.’ You’d better do the
lecturing!”
“No, sir-ee!” declared Billy. “It’s your turn now. Go
ahead.”
“Oh, go on, Bob,” cried Eleanor.
“Please do!” begged Mary Frances.
“All right, then,” replied Bob, laughing, “only don’t
expect much erudite stuff from humble me—even
when I read my notes.”
Then, opening his book, and clearing his throat,
he started once more: “Listen, young ladies, and you will hear of—

Bulbs to Plant in the Fall

 Snowdr
ops

The earliest Spring garden flower, sometimes coming literally

out of the snow as early as February; but usually blooming in
March. The blossoms are small, white, bell-shaped, not in the
least showy. Only one who has come upon them unexpectedly
blooming in his garden knows the thrill of pleasure which they
bring. As they are small and inexpensive, plant a number of bulbs
about two inches apart, to cover an irregular circle. Once planted
they take care of themselves.

Squills (Scilla)
Near the Snowdrops, plant in the same way, a dozen Siberian
Squills. Beautiful blue flowers, which will bloom perhaps while
some of the Snowdrops are in blossom. Once planted, do not
disturb.

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari)

Little stalks of tiny tight blue bells, or white, somewhat the
shape of tiny fairy-folks’ grapes. Everyone should have a dozen or
so of these pretty early Spring-flowering bulbs.

Narcissus or Daffodils
Everybody knows a daffodil, for breathes there a human being
with soul so dead as not to feel warmth of heart at the sunshine
glow of its yellow petals?
But not everybody knows the difference between daffodils and
jonquils and narcissus.
 The fact is, they are all sold by dealers under the name
Narcissus.
Every Narcissus has a “cup and saucer” form. In some, the
cup, or trumpet, is tall; in some, it is short; in others, it is double:
and according to the shape of the cup, each Narcissus is named.
All dealers agree that the type with the double cup is called
daffodil. It is not generally thought so attractive as the single
sorts.
The single sorts are of the following different varieties of
Narcissus:

Giant Trumpet. Very showy, with large cups

and saucers. Buy “Emperor,” and
“Empress.”
Medium Trumpet. (“Star” Narcissus.) Not so
large nor attractive, but very graceful. Buy
Narcissus — “Barii Conspicuus.”
Poet’s Narcissus. Old-fashioned favorite.
Charming fragrant white flowers, with cups
edged with red. Buy “Poeticus” (Pheasant’s
Eye) or “King Edward VII.” Very easily
grown.
Jonquils are the small-flowering type of Narcissus. They are
easily grown, and many have a charming fragrance.
Polyanthus Narcissus or Nosegay Daffodils are the little
clustered kind grown indoors.
All these distinctions, and many others, are made by the
dealers, but almost everyone of us thinks of all the yellow
Narcissus as Daffodils. They grow so readily, with almost no care,
that everyone, with only the tiniest garden, should plant at least a
half dozen bulbs of the “Giant Emperor.”
Within a few years after planting, the Spring will bring dozens
of blossoms of—
“Daffodown-dilly,
Come up to town,
In a green petticoat
And a gold gown.”
 Hyacinths
Single sorts do better than double. As a rule, hyacinths do not
improve from being kept in the ground all Winter; they may be
taken up and stored in a cool cellar over Winter to be planted in
the early Spring; but a better plan is to let the old bulbs gradually
“run out,” and plant a few new bulbs each Fall. These are sent to
dealers every Autumn from Holland, because the climate of
Holland is nearly perfect for bulb growing. Sometimes hyacinths
do quite well for a number of years kept in the ground out-of-
doors.
Their charming fragrance, color and form, make them a most
attractive flower. They come in white, pinks and purples.

Tulips
The most gorgeous of all Spring-flowering bulbs.

Early Single. Grow about eight inches high;

come in pinks, reds, yellows, white.
Early Double. These are not so beautiful as
the single varieties.
Cottage Garden (May flowering). A tall
variety, growing about eighteen inches
high, blooming much later than the Early
Single.
Darwin. The most desirable of all tulips, but
Tulips — not very early. The tallest grow nearly thirty
inches high. Globe-shaped flowers of most
brilliant shades of reds, purples, pinks and
white. If yellow is desired, buy one of the
Cottage Garden, for there are no yellow
Darwins.
Parrot. Showy; of variegated shading and
irregular petals. Not so artistic as single
sorts, but very odd and interesting. Buy
only a few bulbs.
While tulips are most effective if planted in groups or masses,
an edging of the stiff blooms of the Early Single is delightful,
especially if a red is alternated with a white. They look almost like
“candles in bloom.”
 Lilies
Lilies dislike sour soil, so sprinkle some lime over the ground
before digging it deeply. A little powdered charcoal in each hole
helps, too, and it is well to dust each bulb with flowers of sulphur
to protect from worms and mildew.
Lilies love shade, and do best among other perennials because
they will shade their roots, which spread out near the surface of
the ground. By the way, since they spread near the surface, do
not “cultivate” lilies. Do not disturb the bulbs, which will bloom for
years if planted right in the first place. Most lilies bloom in Mid-
summer.
Plantain Lily (Funkia). The most easily grown,
with spikes of blooms about eighteen
inches high, in white, blue or lavender.
Yellow Day Lily (Hemerocallis). Grows
anywhere, sometimes killing out other
flowers. Blooms on stems about thirty
inches high.
Madonna Lily (Candidum). Beautiful, stately,
tall white lilies with delightful fragrance.
They resemble “Easter Lilies.” Cover bulbs
Hardy Lilies —
with only two inches of soil.
Red Spotted Lily (Lilium Speciosum Rubrum).
A tall Japanese lily, easily grown. Large
white flowers dotted with red, borne on a
tall stem.
Tiger Lily (Tigrinum). Orange spotted with
black. Very easily grown. {Lilies-of-the-
Valley. Grown from “pips,” or tiny bulbs.
Plant in the Spring in rich earth. They like
some shade.

Iris (Flags)
Spanish Iris. Exquisite orchid-like blooms, in white and rich
shades of blue, yellow, bronze.
German Iris. Very easily grown and very desirable.

Bulbs to Plant in Early Spring

 Among these are:

Tuberoses
Plant in May, and again in June and July, in order to have a
continuation of bloom of these powerfully fragrant and beautiful
white flowers.

Gladiolus
These bulbs are planted in May and June at two weeks
intervals, in order to have blooms from July to October. They like
rich soil, and powdered sheep manure, which is sold by the
pound, is a good substitute for rotted stable manure. They like
the sunny places.
The bulbs of both tuberoses and gladiolus should be taken out
of the ground in the Fall after the foliage becomes yellow. The
stems are cut off and the bulbs dried on an airy shelf, or any
place which is neither very warm nor very cold. They are set in
the ground again in the Spring.
Cannas and dahlias grow from fleshy roots and are planted in
the Spring also. They are lifted and dried in the Fall.
If your garden space is small, the following selection of
bulbous plants will give a great deal of enjoyment:

Hardy Bulbs for a Small Garden

6 Snowdrops
6 Grape Hyacinths (2 white, 4 blue)
6 Emperor Daffodils
6 Poet’s Narcissus (Pheasant’s Eye)
6 Early Single Tulips
12 Darwin Tulips (3 each, of four different
colors)
3 Spanish Iris
6 German Iris

Growing Bulbs Indoors

 It is very interesting and delightful to grow bulbs indoors,
where the warmth “forces” them into bloom in the cold winter
months. If they are managed in the right way, you may have
blooms from Christmas on. Do not attempt to have over a half
dozen pots the first year.
Bulbs may be grown indoors in pots or in prepared fibre, which
may be bought of a dealer.
If grown in pots, prepare a rich soil of sand and leaf mold. If
impossible to get leaf mold, use a sprinkling of bone meal. Place
some pieces of broken flower pots or pebbles in the bottom of the
pots to drain the water off, or the bulbs will mold.
If grown in prepared fibre, moisten the fibre before putting in
the pot, but do not make it wet enough to wring. Plant bulbs as in
soil, but do not pack in tight. After watering, turn pot on the side
to drain off the water. A piece of charcoal in the bottom of the
pan or pot keeps the fibre sweet.
Hyacinths do well when grown in glass vases. The glass vases
used are made for the purpose, and hold the bulb just above the
water—not touching.
The main point in growing bulbs indoors is to arrange to keep
them growing in a dark, cool place until the roots have formed
and the leaves show about three inches.
This is accomplished in several different ways. Perhaps the
simplest of all is to place the pots on a cool cellar floor and cover
them with ashes, which will assure their being kept in the dark.
Keep them damp by watering the ashes once or twice a week.
(The same idea is better carried out by the use of a cold frame,
the making of which is described in the next chapter.)
Place the pots on ashes in the frame, throwing three or four
inches of ashes over them; or use dried peat moss instead of
ashes. This is sold by dealers in seeds and plants.
Place glass cover on the cold frame when the weather
becomes severe.
About three weeks before you wish them to bloom bring some
of the potted bulbs into the warmth of the house. Do not place
them immediately in a very warm place or in the sunlight. Give
them as much fresh air as possible.
 After planting bulbs in prepared fibre, or hyacinths in glasses,
keep them in a dark, airy closet until the roots have formed,
which will be in about six weeks. Then bring them into warmth
and light. The roots of the hyacinth should reach the bottom of
the glasses before bringing them into the light.
Daffodils and single tulips, crocuses, polyanthus narcissus
(often grown in pebbles in water) all are easily forced into bloom
indoors.

“But,” added Billy as Bob drew a long breath, “growing bulbs

indoors is a rather tedious experiment, and better not be attempted
by young children,” as he pulled Mary Frances’ hair ribbon untied.
“Well, neither of you would have known much, Mr. Superior
Knowledge,” laughed Eleanor, “if you hadn’t studied this all within a
week or so.”
“Let’s begin to plant,” was Billy’s answer.
 CHAPTER LVII
Billy Builds a Hotbed

D URING the Christmas holidays the children made wonderful

plans for their gardens.
“Everything should be started very early,” said Bob, airing his
newly acquired knowledge, “and the best place to start seeds is in a
hotbed.”
“I tell you what we’ll do, Bob,” Billy suggested. “Let’s come home
in March and build one!”
“Won’t that be grand!” cried the girls with enthusiasm. “We’ll help
all we can.”
“Ah! You can’t——” began Billy, then stopped.

So one sunny day in the early part of March, just the very day
Eleanor discovered some of the snowdrops blooming, the boys
surprised them. About an hour after they came, the lumber and
sashes for the hotbed arrived.
“We bought the frames ready to set up,” Billy said, “but a fellow
could make one quite well. Even a grocery box, if cut in the right
shape and covered with glass, makes a good substitute.”
“Yes, we made that kind at school for practice,” added Bob, and
to show how well he had learned his lesson, he started to dig where
they had decided to place the hotbed.
Meanwhile Billy referred to his useful note book, and explained
what they were about to do. “The situation is very important,” he
said, “for we learned at school that a—

Hotbed
should be sheltered from the north winds; so, if possible,
place it on the south side of a large building.
Let it slant toward the sunny south, where the glass
sash will catch the sun’s rays.
You see, a hotbed is a tiny greenhouse. In both a
greenhouse and a hotbed, artificial heat is supplied.
Greenhouses are heated by steam or hot water pipes:
ordinary hotbeds are heated by fresh manure, which, in
the process of decomposing, gives off a great amount of
heat.
Heat, air and sunlight are essential for plants’ growth.
The slanting glass sash catches the sunshine, and
holds in the heat which the manure gives off. The sashes
are raised a little in the warmest part of each day, which
gives the plants air.
The frame is generally about eighteen inches high in
bac
k
an
d
tw
elv
e
inc
hes
in
fro
nt.
Dig nearly two feet deep, in a space a foot wider and longer
than the frame.
Get ready a pile of fresh horse manure which has been mixed
with one-third as much bedding straw or litter.
 If very dry, sprinkle with water. When, in a day or two, it
begins to steam, turn it well over, and in a day or so more, fill the
dug-out space to within six inches of the top.
Place the frame on this, and bank up the outside with more
manure. Cover the manure with earth.
Fill the inside with earth six or eight inches deep, and water
with a sprinkler.
Put on the sash, and place a thermometer inside. It may go up
to 120 degrees, but in a few days will come down to 90 degrees,
when the bed is ready for planting.
Seeds may be planted direct in the soil, but a more convenient
plan is to fill shallow boxes, called “flats,” with soil, and plant the
seeds in them, placing them in the hotbed. They are easily lifted if
a slat is nailed across the middle, when the young plants are
ready for transplanting into the—

Cold Frame
The frame and glass sash of a cold frame are just like those of
a hotbed, but the cold frame is placed on the ground without
fresh manure, sometimes without any manure.
Usually, the earth is dug up to the depth of a foot and mixed
with well-rotted manure and the frame placed on top of it. Soil is
also banked up on the outside for protection from cold winds.
An old cooled off hotbed is really a cold frame.
A cold frame is always useful for—
1. “Wintering over” plants a little too tender to leave
unprotected.
2. Transplanting seedlings (young plants) from the hotbed,
where they will gradually become accustomed to a cooler
atmosphere before they are placed in the outside ground.
Young lettuce plants may be placed in the cold frame in the
Autumn, and will supply salad nearly all winter.
Parsley and herbs will stay green the winter through if placed
in the cold frame.
 Some hardier seeds may be started in the cold frame instead
of the hotbed; such as cucumber or melons.
Always cover the sash with burlap or old carpet on very cold
nights, to prevent young plants from freezing.

Before the boys returned to school, the children had sowed in

their new hotbed the seeds of the following flowers and vegetables:
Ageratum
Alyssum
Corn flowers
Snapdragons
Lettuce
Radishes
Parsley
Tomatoes
Peppers
 CHAPTER LVIII
Some Hints on Growing Vegetables

M ARY FRANCES repeated to Eleanor some of the lessons which

Billy had given her on growing vegetables.
She had a little book in which she had taken
notes.
“Billy told me,” she said, “that when he was little,
he used to wonder why things wouldn’t grow if they
were just ‘stuck down’ in the ground. You see, he
didn’t know that the making of the beds was the
most important matter of all.”
“Why, I’ve heard people say that anything would
grow if planted by certain people—that they ‘had
luck,’” Eleanor stated.
“If you had watched those very people,” Mary
Frances replied wisely, “you would probably have
seen that they loosened up the soil before they
‘stuck’ the plant down.”
“I imagine that’s true,” agreed Eleanor.
“Well,” Mary Frances continued, opening her book,
“as you know, in getting the outdoor beds ready, you
—
(1) Dig deep to loosen the soil;
(2) Spread over it well-rotted manure;
(3) Dig and turn the soil over again;
(4) Rake the top soil fine and level.
 It is a good plan to spread leaves and manure over the ground
in the Fall and dig them in in the Spring to make the soil rich and
crumbly, or friable.
Did you ever think how many different parts of plants are used
for food?
We eat the roots of some vegetables; such as beets, carrots,
radishes, turnips.
Of others we use the leaves; such as lettuce, celery, cabbage,
spinach, parsley.
Of others, the seeds; as beans, peas, corn.
Of others, the fruit; as peppers, melons, tomatoes.

The Earliest Vegetables to Plant

The following vegetable seeds are not very delicate, and can
stand a good deal of frost.
Plant as soon as the ground is warm, about the first of April.

Peas
Plant The new early “Lactonia” peas
seeds 2 are to be recommended, because it
inches apart, is not necessary to use brush for
2 inches — them to climb upon. Buy one pint.
deep, 1½ Sow peas every week for a month
feet to have them ripen from time to
between time (“successively”).
rows.
 “All Heart” is very delicious.
Remember that lettuce will be much
Lettuce more tender and crisp if grown very
Plant quickly in beds rich in manure. Over
seeds ½ it, a shade frame should be used in
inch deep, mid-summer and hot weather.
broadcast, — In transplanting to rows from the
or 3 inches hotbed, put plants 6 inches apart.
apart, in Cos, or Romaine, or Celery
rows 1 foot Lettuce is very easily grown. The
apart. heavy ribs of the leaves are crisp
and good. It grows quite well in hot
weather.

Onions
Cover the
onion with
Buy yellow onion sets—one pint.
soil. Leave 2
It takes two years to raise onions
inches
— from seeds. When ready to pull,
between
take every other one or so, leaving
onions; 6
the smallest to grow larger.
inches
between
rows.

Radishes
½ inch The best are the little red globe
deep, about shape. Sow some in early Spring in
2 inches hotbed. Sow every week to have
—
apart. Rows “successive,” crops. They will be
1 foot apart, ready in about four weeks. Radishes
or like a sprinkling of lime in the soil.
broadcast.

Beets — Buy five-cent package of

Seeds 1 Crosby’s “Egyptian.” Seeds may be
inch deep, 2 sowed thick, for not all germinate.
inches apart, Thin the rows by pulling the
in rows 1 weakest plants. The young leaves
foot apart. may be cooked as “greens.” Never
cut the tops off of beets when
cooking. Cut off only the leaves.
 Beets may be sowed again in June
for a late crop.

The Second Early Vegetables to Plant

(About ten days after the first)

Buy one package

“Sutton’s Red
Intermediate.” Carrots
do not like new rich soil.
Carrots
Radishes may be
Sow ½ inch deep, 3
— sowed between the
inches apart, in rows
rows; for they will be
1½ feet apart.
pulled before the carrots
need much room. Sow
carrots rather thick, and
thin out weak plants.

Buy one package

“Prizetaker Leeks.” Sow
in March or April, and
when they are about
half a foot high,
Leeks transplant to deep, rich
Sow seeds 1 inch soil, 6 inches apart, in
—
deep, 2 inches apart, in rows 1 foot apart. Plant
rows 1 foot apart. deep, to “blanch,” or
whiten the tops.
Leeks may be sowed
in September and
transplanted in the
Spring.

Parsley — Buy one package

Sow ½ inch deep, “Dwarf Perfection” or
about 4 inches apart, in “Moss Curly.” Soak seed
rows 1 foot apart. over night in water.
Parsley may be
broadcast if space is
limited. Add an equal
quantity of sand to the
seeds to help sowing.
 Throw sand and seeds
over the seed bed. Cover
by using a toy rake.
When 4 inches high, it
may be transplanted to
rows. “Winters over” in
cold frame, and in some
localities outdoors, if
covered with leaves.

Buy one package

each. Broadcast and
Thyme and Sweet Basil rake in the seeds. Sweet
—
Broadcast. Basil grows tall. Thyme
only about four inches
high.

Sow broadcast in
March in flats (shadow
boxes) in hotbed, or
under glass. When 2 or
3 inches high, thin out.
When ground is really
warm, set out 15 inches
apart in rows 2 feet
apart. Children will not
need more than half a
Peppers — dozen plants of large
sweet peppers. Buy
“Chinese Giant.”
Little red peppers are
particularly pretty in the
garden, and are useful
for flavoring soup—use
only a half or a quarter
of one, though. Buy
“Small Chili” or “Red
Cherry.”

Cucumbers — Sow about a dozen

seeds in late March or
early April in strawberry
 box filled with rich soil,
and place under glass.
Some warm day in May,
make a hill about eight
inches high, and after
tearing off the bottom of
the box, plant it in the
hill. After a few days,
thin out the weakest
plants, leaving three or
four standing. Two or
three moth balls in the
ground, when the leaves
come through, will keep
bugs away.

Sugar Corn takes up

so much room in the
garden that only a very
few hills should be
planted by a child. When
the weather is very
warm, make little hills 3
feet apart. Drop 6 corn
kernels a little distance
Corn —
apart into the hole.
Cover with about an inch
of soil. Shallow
cultivation helps. Buy
one package “Stabler’s
Early” for early corn; one
package “Stowell’s
Evergreen” for later
crops.

Beans — Lima Beans. Buy

2 inches deep, 6 “Bush Limas,” because it
inches apart, in rows 18 will not be necessary to
inches apart set poles for them to
climb upon. Wood ashes
mixed with the soil helps
them grow. They do not
 like damp, heavy soil. Do
not plant before warm
weather, because beans
are tender. Plant in
warm weather,
edgewise, with the “eye”
down.
String Beans. Buy
“Stringless Green Pod.”
Plant every week after
all danger of frost is
past, 2 inches deep, 6
inches apart, in rows 18
inches or 2 feet apart.

Tomatoes — It is best for the small

Plants, 2 feet apart, gardener to buy the
in rows 3 feet apart plants and set them out
in rows when the
weather is really warm.
“Earliana” is the best
early variety.
“Ponderosa” is the
best later variety. If you
sow seeds, start them
under glass in March or
even earlier. When
plants are about 3
inches high, transplant
to strawberry boxes.
Tomato Trellis or Support Break bottom of box and
transplant box into the
open ground when it is
really warm. Tomatoes
need supports to rest or
climb upon. The simplest
support is a stake driven
down near them, to
which the stems are tied
as they grow. Stakes
driven at intervals with
heavy cords running
from one to the other
 make another good
support; but the best is
a slat frame.
If grown from seeds,
they will not be ready
for about 18 weeks.

White Potatoes. It is
best for children not to
attempt to grow more
than one plant of
potatoes, but they may
be interested to know
that white potatoes are
grown from the “eye,”
cut in a large square-
shaped piece of the
potatoes. The potatoes
form on the roots of the
Potatoes —
bush, and are dug and
stored in the Fall.
Sweet Potatoes grow
on the roots of a very
pretty vine which trails
over the ground. To get
the young plants, some
sweet potatoes are
grown in hotbeds, and
the vines are
transplanted in hot
weather to open ground.
In transplanting, always press with your fingers the soil firmly
down around the roots.

Fertilizers
As you know, in order to make good and rapid growth, plants
need the right kind of food. Manure is the best fertilizer. In
manure almost every kind of plant food is supplied, but there are
chemical foods which stimulate growth and are easily applied. If it
is impossible to obtain manure, use decayed vegetables and
leaves, and Commercial Fertilizer, which is made up of the mineral
or chemical food needed by plants. Do not use too much, for it is
very heating and may burn the roots of young plants. Never let
the roots come into direct contact with the powder—always
sprinkle some earth over it after throwing a small quantity (about
two tablespoonfuls) in a hole.
Bone meal or Ground Bone is another excellent food. If
sprinkled on the ground and dug in around the roots of roses, it
will give them a good food supply.
Nitrate of Soda is a very stimulating food for vegetables. Use 1
tablespoonful in 4 quarts of water in the sprinkler. Do not use
until the plants are at least 3 inches high, and only once in two
weeks. Sprinkle ground near roots—do not sprinkle leaves.
Cow Manure and Sheep Manure may be purchased in
powdered form for use in a small garden, and in this form are
most easily managed by little folks.
Powdered Sheep Manure dug in around the roots of roses once
a month assures a wealth of bloom.

Insecticides
All plants will be attacked by insects.
One of the best insecticides for children to use, because it is
not poisonous to human beings, is Slug Shot, a patent
preparation, which will kill worms and many other biting insects.
It is inexpensive and need be dusted but lightly on foliage which
is bitten.
Tobacco tea made by throwing boiling water over tobacco
stems, and letting it cool, is used for aphides (Plant lice).
For other insecticides, see Chapter XXIX.
In the following blank pages, write down your own experience
in gardening; for example,
Name. Dates. Remarks.
Sweet Peas. Plant in the Plant in deep drills, in rich earth. Give
(Improved Autumn, or them a wire frame to climb upon.
Early early Spring. Never water at night, as the dampness
Spencer.)
Pink, causes them to mildew. Pick blossoms
lavender, daily.
white.
 CHAPTER LIX
The City Garden

C HILDREN who live in the city usually have so little ground that
they are not often encouraged to attempt gardening.
Even in the tiny 9 x 12 foot city yard, provided it
has sunshine during some part of the day, a
surprising variety of plants may be grown.
In the new style of building, happily the old-
fashioned boarded-up fence is disappearing, being
replaced by iron fencing, which gives an open
appearance and admits air to the rear of the
dwelling; but if one lives where the garden is “walled
in,” a great deal of pleasure may be gained from—

Hanging Gardens
Along the sunniest wall of the garden, hang boxes
on iron brackets as shown in the picture on this page.
The lower garden should be placed high enough to
let the sunlight into the small hotbed which is placed on
the ground.
In the upper garden, annual flowers and vines may
be grown.
In the lower garden, plan to have—

A Soup and Sauce Garden

containing mint, parsley, chives, onions, little red peppers.
 In the ground near the hotbed, you may grow tomatoes,
carrots, and—

Okra or Gumbo
Plant seeds in May. You will probably need only two plants, one
foot apart. Use the pods while young. “White Velvet” is a good
variety. The plants grow three feet tall. In chicken or tomato soup
the beautiful green odd-shaped slices give a richness of flavor.
In using fresh thyme in soup, add it a few moments before
serving instead of cooking it from the first, and notice the
improvement of flavor.
In the hotbed garden you may have radishes and lettuce at the
time they come with, their tempting freshness and their high
prices in the Spring markets.

In the city, many flowering plants are grown in sunny windows.

The following named will be found among the best for the—

Indoor Garden
Hyacinths
Chinese Lilies
Tulips
Tuberous-rooted Begonias
Ferns
Bermuda Buttercup Oxalis
English Ivy
Impatiens Sultana
Spirea
 Geraniums

Bermuda Buttercup Oxalis blooms all winter in clusters of

golden yellow flowers. The foliage is beautiful, resembling that of
clover.
Grand Duchess Oxalis, in pink, is another charming house
plant. It comes in white and lavender also.
The other types of Oxalis are pretty in hanging baskets.
The bulbs of Oxalis cost from three to five cents each. Plant six
in a pot, and be certain to give them good soil, partly leaf loam.
Keep them in a dark, cool place for a short time. Water them as
they dry out. Bring to the light gradually. They will sometimes
bloom in six weeks. Oxalis, already started, may be had of a
florist.
Another pretty house plant is a vine grown from a sweet potato
placed in a hyacinth glass or bottle of water.

For the dining table center piece, the next time you have
grapefruit for breakfast, save the seeds, and plant them quite
thick, about one-half inch deep, in a shallow earthen flower pot.
Keep well watered. It may take six weeks for the leaves to peep
through, but they make a beautiful green decoration for the
house in winter.
 Sweet Potato Vine

Do not forget your strawflowers which you dried in the

Summer. They look pretty with the Japanese air plant, which stays
green so long without water.

Watering House Plants

Immerse the pot in a bucket of water, and leave it until it stops
bubbling. This done twice a week is far better than daily
sprinkling. Neither is it good to keep water in a saucer under a
plant; the roots do not like a constant soaking. Wash the leaves
from time to time, and when the weather is warm enough, give
them some fresh air.
Tobacco dust will keep away green lice (aphides); so, also, will
Persian insect powder. Blow either on with little bellows, or “air
guns.”
 There is a plant food for house plants which is sold by dealers.
One teaspoonful dug into the earth once in two weeks is very
beneficial to their growth.
Welcome to Our Bookstore - The Ultimate Destination for Book Lovers
Are you passionate about books and eager to explore new worlds of
knowledge? At our website, we offer a vast collection of books that
cater to every interest and age group. From classic literature to
specialized publications, self-help books, and children’s stories, we
have it all! Each book is a gateway to new adventures, helping you
expand your knowledge and nourish your soul
Experience Convenient and Enjoyable Book Shopping Our website is more
than just an online bookstore—it’s a bridge connecting readers to the
timeless values of culture and wisdom. With a sleek and user-friendly
interface and a smart search system, you can find your favorite books
quickly and easily. Enjoy special promotions, fast home delivery, and
a seamless shopping experience that saves you time and enhances your
love for reading.
Let us accompany you on the journey of exploring knowledge and
personal growth!

ebookball.com