Cosmetic
Cosmetic
A. Cosmetics
Cosmetics are products intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions.
B. Cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical or drug-like benefits.
Function Examples
"Cosmetic means any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human
body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes any article intended for
use as a component of cosmetic."
"A cosmetic product means any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis,
hair, nails, lips, external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to
cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours."
3. Evolution of Cosmeceuticals from Cosmetics
• Birth of Cosmeceuticals:
• Today: Cosmeceuticals are backed by scientific studies and often regulated under stricter norms (depending on the country).
• Cosmetics containing active drug ingredients that are approved for non-prescription use.
• Examples:
o Anti-fungal creams,
5. Cosmetic Excipients
Rheology Modifiers Control viscosity and texture Carbopol, xanthan gum, HPMC
Emollients Soften and smoothen skin Lanolin, mineral oil, shea butter
A. Structure of Skin:
1. Epidermis:
o Outermost layer.
2. Dermis:
B. Functions of Skin:
A. Structure of Hair:
Problem Description
Halitosis (Bad breath) Often due to bacteria, poor hygiene, or dry mouth.
Unit 2
1. Face Wash
Key Components:
Advantages:
• Prevents acne
• Refreshes skin
Disadvantages:
2. Moisturizing Cream
Building Blocks:
• Emulsifiers: Polysorbates
• Preservatives
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
• Can be greasy
3. Cold Cream
Key Ingredients:
• Borax: Emulsifier
• Fragrance, Preservative
Advantages:
• Heavy moisturization
Disadvantages:
• Greasy residue
Key Ingredients:
• Glycerin: Humectant
• Perfume, Preservatives
Advantages:
• Non-greasy finish
Disadvantages:
• Less moisturizing
5. Application in Cosmeceuticals
Antiperspirants Aluminum chlorohydrate, zirconium salts Block sweat glands (temporary plug formation)
Deodorants Triclosan, ethanol, zinc ricinoleate Inhibit bacterial growth and neutralize odor
Additional Components:
• Fragrance
1. Conditioning Shampoo
Key Ingredients:
• Humectants: Glycerin
Benefits:
• Smooth hair after wash
• Reduces frizz
2. Hair Conditioner
Ingredients:
• Silicones: Dimethicone
3. Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
Actives:
Base:
4. Hair Oils
Common Oils:
Other Ingredients:
Chemistry:
Mechanism:
• Oxidation of PPD in alkaline medium → reacts with couplers → produces dye complex inside hair shaft
Formulation:
Actives:
Excipients:
• Humectants (sorbitol)
Actives:
Excipients:
Actives:
Excipients:
• Abrasives (silica)
• Surfactants (SLS)
4. Mouthwash
Types:
Other ingredients:
• Flavoring agents
• Sweeteners (saccharin)
Unit 3
Sun Protection, Classification of Sunscreens, and SPF
Sun protection refers to the measures taken to guard skin against ultraviolet (UV) radiation that causes:
• Sunburn
• Hyperpigmentation
• Skin cancer
Classification of Sunscreens
Sunscreens are classified based on their mechanism of action and the type of UV rays they block.
• Combine physical and chemical agents for improved protection and cosmetic elegance.
• Definition: SPF indicates the level of protection a sunscreen provides against UVB rays.
Example: SPF 30 means it would take 30 times longer to redden your skin than without protection.
Note: SPF doesn't measure protection against UVA rays. For UVA, look for PA+ rating or "broad-spectrum" label.
1. Aloe Vera
• Actives: Curcumin
• Actives: Eugenol
The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) provides standard guidelines to ensure the quality, safety, and efficacy of cosmetic products.
• pH (between 4.5–7)
• Foam height
• Surface tension
• Viscosity
Parameters:
• Homogeneity
• Viscosity
• Spreadability
• Microbial load
Analytical Methods:
Key Parameters:
• Fluoride content
• pH (5.5–10.5)
• Foaming property
• Microbial limits
Analytical Methods:
Unit 4
Principles of Sebumeter
Purpose: A Sebumeter is used to quantify the amount of sebum (skin oil) present on the skin’s surface. Excess sebum can lead to acne, while
insufficient sebum can result in dry skin.
How It Works:
• The Sebumeter uses a photoelectric sensor to measure the light reflection on the skin's surface.
• The sebum absorbs light differently than the skin, which allows the device to measure the amount of sebum.
• Results are displayed in units called sebum secretion rate (SFR), often represented as a percentage or an arbitrary unit.
Applications:
2. Principles of Corneometer
Purpose: The Corneometer measures the skin hydration level or moisture content in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin).
How It Works:
• It uses the principle of capacitance measurement: The device measures the skin’s ability to store an electrical charge.
• The skin's hydration affects its capacitance; more hydrated skin has a higher capacitance.
• The device provides a quantitative measurement of the water content in the skin and is often displayed in arbitrary units.
Applications:
• Hydration monitoring: Evaluating the effectiveness of moisturizers and hydrating skincare products
• Pre-treatment and post-treatment evaluations: Helps assess skin before and after using hydrating or moisturizing formulations
Purpose: TEWL is a measure of the water lost through the epidermis to the surrounding environment. It is an indicator of skin barrier function
and overall skin health.
How It Works:
• The TEWL meter measures the amount of water vapor that escapes the skin by using a capacitive sensor that detects the water
gradient between the skin and the environment.
• The sensor detects the evaporation rate, providing a reading of water loss per unit of skin area (typically in g/h/m²).
• Higher TEWL values suggest a compromised skin barrier, which may be due to dryness, inflammation, or external irritants.
Applications:
• Assessing the effectiveness of products designed to repair or strengthen the skin barrier (e.g., moisturizers, barrier creams)
• Measuring skin hydration levels and the effectiveness of products for dry skin
Purpose: Skin color is an important parameter to evaluate in products designed for skin tone, tanning, or pigmentation correction.
How It Works:
• These devices use light reflection techniques and analyze the intensity and wavelength of light reflected from the skin.
• The Lab scale (L, a, b*)** and Melanin and Erythema Index are the common scales used to quantify skin color:
Applications:
• Evaluating changes in skin color during the use of anti-aging or anti-pigmentation treatments
Purpose: Hair tensile strength refers to the force required to stretch a hair strand to its breaking point. It is a key indicator of hair health,
strength, and damage resistance.
How It Works:
• The tensile strength tester grips the hair at both ends and applies increasing force until the hair breaks.
Applications:
Purpose: Combing properties refer to how easily hair can be combed or detangled after washing. This is an important parameter for assessing
the effectiveness of conditioning products.
How It Works:
• Instruments such as a combability tester measure the friction between the comb and the hair.
• The detangling ability is also measured, and subjective assessments may include smoothness, shininess, and static buildup.
Applications:
Soaps:
• Composition: Typically made by the reaction of alkali (sodium hydroxide) with fatty acids from natural oils (like coconut or palm oil).
• Properties:
o pH: Traditional soaps are usually alkaline, which may strip the skin of natural oils, potentially causing dryness or irritation.
• Composition: Made from synthetic surfactants rather than natural fats and oils.
• Properties:
o Milder on skin: Typically neutral or slightly acidic pH, making them suitable for sensitive skin types.
o Less drying: Because they don’t strip the skin's natural oils as much as traditional soap.
• Soaps: Once the primary form of cleansing, soaps are being replaced by syndet bars in many formulations due to their gentler nature
on the skin.
• Syndet Bars:
o Beneficial for sensitive or dry skin, as they help maintain the skin's natural moisture balance.
Unit 5
Oily Skin:
• Definition: Oily skin is characterized by an excessive production of sebum (skin's natural oil) that can lead to a shiny appearance,
enlarged pores, and a higher likelihood of developing acne or blackheads.
• Causes:
o Hormonal changes: During puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, or due to conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS),
hormonal fluctuations lead to excess sebum production.
o Environmental factors: Humidity and hot weather can stimulate sebaceous glands to produce more oil.
Dry Skin:
• Definition: Dry skin occurs when the skin lacks sufficient moisture and sebum, leading to a dull, flaky, and tight feeling.
• Causes:
o Weather conditions: Cold, windy, and low-humidity environments can strip the skin of moisture.
o Aging: With age, the skin produces less oil and moisture.
o Dehydration: Lack of proper hydration in the body can lead to dry skin.
o Harsh skincare products: Overuse of strong soaps, alcohol-based toners, or products that strip moisture from the skin can
lead to dryness.
o Underlying medical conditions: Conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and hypothyroidism can contribute to dry skin.
Skin Moisturization:
• Purpose: The primary goal of moisturizing is to restore and maintain skin hydration by enhancing the skin's natural barrier function.
• Types of Moisturizers:
o Emollients: Fill in the gaps between skin cells, making the skin feel smooth (e.g., fatty acids, lanolin).
o Occlusives: Form a barrier on the skin to lock in moisture (e.g., petrolatum, dimethicone).
• Application: Moisturizers should be applied after cleansing while the skin is still damp to lock in moisture.
Comedogenic:
• Definition: Comedogenic refers to substances or products that have the potential to clog pores, leading to the formation of
comedones (acne lesions such as blackheads or whiteheads).
• Importance: People with acne-prone skin should avoid comedogenic products, which include heavy oils, certain moisturizers, and
foundations that may exacerbate breakouts.
Dermatitis:
• Definition: Dermatitis is a general term for inflammation of the skin, characterized by redness, irritation, itching, and in severe cases,
blistering or peeling.
• Types:
o Atopic Dermatitis (Eczema): A chronic skin condition causing itchy, inflamed skin, often triggered by allergens, stress, or
irritants.
o Contact Dermatitis: Skin inflammation caused by direct contact with an irritant or allergen (e.g., soaps, fragrances, or plants
like poison ivy).
o Seborrheic Dermatitis: A form of eczema affecting the scalp, face, and other oil-rich areas, often resulting in dandruff or
flaky, greasy skin.
Dandruff:
• Cause: Malassezia, a type of yeast, can overgrow on the scalp, causing irritation, flakiness, and itching. Other factors include dry skin,
oily scalp, and sensitivity to hair products.
• Management: Use of anti-fungal or anti-dandruff shampoos containing ingredients like zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, or
ketoconazole.
Hair Fall:
• Causes:
o Genetics: Androgenic alopecia (male or female pattern baldness) is the most common cause.
o Hormonal changes: Pregnancy, menopause, thyroid imbalances, or stress can trigger hair loss.
o Nutrient deficiency: Lack of iron, biotin, or vitamin D can lead to thinning or shedding.
o Environmental factors: Pollution, UV rays, and harsh chemicals in hair products can damage hair and contribute to fall.
o Poor scalp health: Conditions like dandruff, fungal infections, or scalp irritation can lead to hair loss.
Blemishes:
• Definition: Blemishes refer to spots, scars, or marks on the skin, often caused by acne, sun exposure, or hyperpigmentation.
• Management: Products containing salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, or vitamin C can help reduce blemishes and even out
skin tone.
Wrinkles:
• Cause: Wrinkles develop due to a loss of collagen and elastin in the skin, caused by aging, UV exposure, and environmental factors.
• Management: Anti-aging creams with retinoids, peptides, or hyaluronic acid can reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity.
Acne:
• Cause: Acne is caused by clogged pores, excess oil production, and bacterial infection, leading to inflammation and pustules.
• Management: Use of products containing salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or retinoids can help control acne.
Prickly Heat:
• Cause: Blocked sweat ducts cause the sweat to get trapped under the skin, leading to redness, itching, and rashes.
• Management: Keeping the skin cool, dry, and using soothing calamine lotion can provide relief.
Body Odor:
• Cause: Body odor is primarily caused by the breakdown of sweat by bacteria on the skin.
Antiperspirants:
• Active Ingredients: The primary active ingredients in antiperspirants are aluminum-based compounds such as aluminum chloride,
aluminum chlorohydrate, or aluminum zirconium.
• Mechanism of Action:
o These compounds work by blocking sweat glands. They form a gel-like plug in the sweat ducts, preventing the release of
sweat.
o This leads to a reduction in sweat production, thus preventing body odor associated with sweating.
Deodorants:
• Active Ingredients: Deodorants often contain antimicrobial agents like triclosan, silver ions, or alcohol, which target the bacteria
that cause body odor.
• Mechanism of Action:
o They do not block sweating but help reduce the smell associated with sweat by killing odor-causing bacteria.