Chapter 01: Introduction

1.1 Introduction:

Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes
to match with every dress. It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was
originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west
coast (US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim.

Denim can be considered a staple article of clothing throughout the world because,
regardless of their area, age, sex and status, most of the general population owns a couple
of pairs of jeans. It is hard to pin down a wardrobe in which there are no denim items. In
Europe, America and Asia, denim comprises the most well-known casually used outfit.

Acid washing of denim fabric gives "Used" or "Vintage" look on the garments. This is
due to the varying degree of abrasion in the garment. The traditional acid washing of
denim garments normally carried out with pumice acids to achieve a soft hand and
desirable look.

Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments of denim garments (amylase
to hydrolyze starches and cellulose to degrade in different way's cotton's cellulose) there
is another enzyme that can be employed to attack selectively the molecule that
constitutes the blue indigo color resulting ineffective on other kind of dyes.

The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as
well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims is as much an art as it
is a technique. The direction in fashion is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter
than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP
Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process.

1.2 Objectives of the Project

1.To compare between Enzyme washed and Acid washed fabric.

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Chapter 02: Literature Review

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2.1 Denim

Denim which gets its name from the French for "serge de Nîmes" (de Nîmes) is a rugged cotton
twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twig- "double") or more warp threads. This
twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the fabric, which distinguishes denim
from cotton duck.

It is characteristic of any indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft
threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric
shows the blue warp threads, the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why jeans are
white on the inside and what makes denim's fading characteristics unique compared to every
other fabric.

2.2 Fabric

Fabric is a textile material made from fibers or yarns that are woven, knitted, or bonded together
to form a flexible sheet. It is used extensively in the production of clothing, home furnishings,
and various other products. Fabrics can be made from natural fibers, such as cotton, wool, and
silk, or synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic. Each type of fabric offers distinct
qualities like softness, durability, breathability, or stretch, depending on the fibers used and the
method of construction.

Natural fabrics are derived from plants, animals, or minerals. For example, cotton comes from
the cotton plant, wool is sourced from sheep, and silk is produced by silkworms. These fabrics
are often breathable, comfortable, and absorbent.

Synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, are man-made and are often more durable, resistant
to wrinkles, and easy to maintain. Blended fabrics combine both natural and synthetic fibers to
take advantage of the best properties of each material, such as cotton-polyester blends that offer
softness and durability.

2.3 Denim Fabric

Heikinheimo, L., Buchert, J., Miettinen-Oinonen, A., &Suominen, P state that,Denim is a type
of cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Warp threads of
denim fabric are dyed in indigo while weft threads remain plain white. That is why denim is
blue on the one side and white on the other. When used for jeans, denim is turned blue on the
outside and because of the way it is made it fades in a characteristic way.[1]

Today’s consumers prefer to live in an informal, comfortable and yet stylish manner. With the
accentuation on easy going ways of life, fabrics should give simply solace and magnificence,
but also have the strength to endure the rigors of lifestyle. Denim jeans are one of the fast selling
apparel items in both the developed and expanding world. They have high strength and
adaptability; they wear well and are comfortable. Today, denim has also gone from being a
work-wear look to a hot fashion product.[2]
Denim can be considered a staple article of clothing throughout the world because, regardless of
their area, age, sex and status, most of the general population owns a couple of pairs of jeans. It
is hard to pin down a wardrobe in which there are no denim items. In Europe, America and
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Asia, denim comprises the most well-known casually used outfit.[3]

Tarhan, M., & Sarıışık, M. state that, Word “denim” comes from fabric "serge de Nimes" made
in France city of Nimes from where it originates. It has been used in America since the late 18th
century, colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans", a type of cotton pants. Jeans come
from "Genes" - a name given by French to Genoa and the people from Genoa where the cotton
trousers were made. In the 1800s, in the time of the Gold Rush, American gold miners needed
clothes that were strong, lasted longer and did not tear easily. Levi Strauss, a businessman, and
Jacob Davis, a tailor, supplied miners with denim pants that were made from durable material
and reinforced with rivets at the places where pants tended to tear which prolonged life of pants.
This marked the beginning of the legend of jeans and brand Levi Strauss is still hugely
successful today.[4]

C. W., Yuen, C. W. M., & Wong, W. Y. state that, Jeans marked culture of the last 140 years
probably more than we think. They were first working clothes, then symbols of disobedience
only to become fashion items. History of denim and jeans is long and colourful. Jacob W. Davis
and Levi Strauss teamed up from necessity and created an item that will influence cultural
groups for years and even today - they created jeans.[5]

Denim was first used for clothes worn by workers because of its high durability. Then it became
widely popular in the 1930s when Hollywood started making cowboy movies in which actors
wore jeans. With the beginning of the World War 2, production of the jeans drops but world
meet denim when American soldiers started wearing them when they were on the leave. When
the war ended, other companies that made denim started appearing like Wrangler and Lee. [6]

Vigny, A., & Henry, J. P.state that, Young people started wearing denim in the 1950s a mean of
rebellion. This fashion was also inspired by Hollywood with by Marlon Brando with his 1953
film “The Wild One” as well James Dean’s movie “Rebel Without a Cause” from 1955. Some
public places like schools and theaters banned jeans because of what they symbolized. Denim
crossed from counter culture to fashion in the 1960s and 1970s when manufacturers started to
make different styles of jeans.[7]

Original denim was dyed with dye from plant Indigo are tentoria. Modern denim is dyed with
synthetic indigo. Denim is often dyed with indigo and dried many times over to get a stronger
color that will not fade quickly. After the denim is made into clothing it as most often washed to
make it softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage. Denim that is not washed is called dry or
raw denim. Denim fades in time and gets a worn out look which is often desired as a fashion
detail. Some denim is artificially distressed so a worn-out look can be got even before wearing.
Denim that is not made of pure cotton but also has an elastic component (most often elastane) is
stretch denim. Besides indigo dyeing, denim can be colored with sulfur dyeing.[8]

2.4 Cotton Fabric

Cotton fabric is a textile made from the fibers of the cotton plant (Gossypium). It is one of the
most widely used and versatile materials in the world, prized for its softness, breathability, and
comfort. Cotton fibers are harvested from the seed pods of the cotton plant, then processed and
spun into yarn, which is woven or knitted to create fabric. This natural fiber is predominantly
used in clothing, home textiles, and industrial applications due to its numerous benefits.

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One of the key features of cotton fabric is its softness, making it comfortable to wear, especially
for everyday clothing like t-shirts, jeans, and undergarments. It is also breathable, allowing air
to circulate through the fabric, which helps regulate body temperature and keep the wearer cool
in warm weather. Cotton is absorbent, meaning it can absorb moisture, which is why it’s
commonly used in towels, bed linens, and activewear.

2.5 Cotton-Polyester fabric

Cotton-Polyester fabric is a blend of two fibers: cotton, a natural fiber, and polyester, a
synthetic fiber. This combination is widely used in the textile industry to create a fabric that
combines the best properties of both materials, offering durability, comfort, and ease of care.
Cotton provides softness, breathability, and comfort. It’s naturally hypoallergenic and absorbs
moisture well, making it ideal for clothing that is worn close to the skin, such as t-shirts, shirts,
and undergarments. Cotton also has a natural ability to allow air to circulate, keeping the wearer
cool in warmer temperatures. However, cotton can be prone to wrinkling and may shrink after
washing, and it requires more care when it comes to maintaining its shape.
Polyester, on the other hand, is a durable, synthetic fiber known for its strength and resilience. It
is resistant to wrinkles, shrinking, and fading, making cotton-polyester blends more low-
maintenance than 100% cotton fabrics. Polyester also dries quickly and is less prone to
absorbing moisture, which makes it suitable for moisture-wicking applications in activewear.

2.6 Cotton-Spandex fabric

Cotton-Spandex fabric is a blend of cotton, a natural fiber, and spandex (also known as elastane
or Lycra), a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional stretch. This combination results in a
fabric that offers both the natural comfort and breathability of cotton, along with the flexibility,
shape retention, and stretchability provided by spandex.

The primary characteristic of cotton is its softness, breathability, and absorbency. It is a

comfortable, hypoallergenic fabric that allows for air circulation, making it ideal for warmer
weather and for wear close to the skin. Cotton is also naturally moisture-absorbent, which helps
keep the wearer dry and comfortable. However, pure cotton fabric can sometimes be stiff and
may lose its shape over time or shrink after washing.

Spandex, on the other hand, is a synthetic fiber known for its stretchability, capable of
expanding up to five times its original length. The inclusion of spandex in cotton fabric provides
a significant improvement in flexibility and allows the fabric to retain its shape after wearing
and washing. The added spandex makes the fabric more form-fitting and allows it to move with
the body, offering greater comfort, especially in activewear or tight-fitting garments.

Cotton-Spandex fabric is commonly used in garments that require both comfort and elasticity,
such as leggings, jeans, sportswear, and activewear. The fabric is particularly popular for
creating skinny jeans, yoga pants, and form-fitting dresses, as it provides a flattering,
comfortable fit that moves with the body. Additionally, this blend is more resistant to wrinkling
compared to pure cotton and retains its shape better over time.

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2.7 Denim Wash

Card, A., Moore, M. A., & Ankeny, M. state that, below is the brief introduction to common
steps done & followed in denim garments washing in Laundries across the world Different kind
& make of machines being used across the global similar result.

Every small step in denim washing makes a big difference because indigo dye has very poor wet
& dry rubbing fastness. All parameters are critical to maintain for repetitive results. Many
laundries across the Globe ignore the importance of pH, M: L, RPM of machine.

In garments industry, there are mainly two types of washing process for garments products.
Those processes are wet washing process and dry washing process. Here also wet washing
process is divided by eight ways and the dry washing process is divided by five ways, according
to the fabric quality and buyer requirements. But most common and applied wash in garment is
normal wash, which is also known as detergent wash. In the wet washing process enzyme wash,
stone wash and acid wash are most popular to the buyer and the manufacturer. On the other
hand, potassium per manganite spray and hand scraping is common for dry washing process in
the garments industry.

Steps in The Process of Denim Washing

1. Pretreatment (De-sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc.)

2. Enzyme or Acid wash
3. Clean up to adjust the desire effect
4. Bleaching
5. Tinting / Dyeing
6. Softening
7. Drying
8. Finishing & Much more

2.8 Acid Wash

Montazer, M. & Maryan, A. S. state that, to bring fading effect on denim acid wash is done.
Acid wash also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics
such as canvas and denim. This process could result in color fading of jeans.

Acid washing of denim fabric gives "Used" or "Vintage" look on the garments. This is due to
the varying degree of abrasion in the garment. The traditional acid washing of denim garments
normally carried out with pumice acid to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. The pumice
acids having oval and round shape with a rough surface, work as an abrading in washing cycle.
The variations in shape, composition, hardness and porosity gives different washing effect in the
denim fabric.

During washing, these acids scrap off dye particles from the surface of the yarn of the denim
fabric which shows a faded, worn out and brilliance effect in the denim fabric. Due to ring
dyeing of denim fabric and heavy abrasion during acid washing, the fading is more apparent but
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less uniform. Acid washing makes the denim garments more supple so that it fits comfortably.
Pumice is a natural volcanic stone used for acid washing garments. It is crystallized with
substantive pores. Pumice is mostly used for acid washing due to its durability to chemicals
treatment, its strength and light weight.

Zimmerman, Keith. State that, in order to get the desired washed effect, the stone should be of
proper hardness, shape, and size. For heavy weight denim fabric large and hard stones are
suitable and smaller and softer stones are suitable for light weight denim. Stone wt.
fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1. The degree of color fading during acid washing depends on several
factors, such as, garment to acid ratio, washing time, size of stones, material to liquor ratio and
load of garments. The washing time may vary from 60 - 120 min. Acids may be reused until
they disintegrate completely.

Acids may cause wear and tear of the fabric and may damage to washing machine due to
abrasion of the acid. It may also create the problem of environmental disposition of waste of the
grit produced by the acid.

2.9 Enzyme Wash

Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as catalysts toward specific reactions. What
makes very interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view is their high specificity or in
other words, their ability to attack selectively a given substrate.

Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments of denim garments (amylase to
hydrolyze starches and cellulose to degrade in different way's cotton's cellulose) there is another
enzyme that can be employed to attack selectively the molecule that constitutes the blue indigo
color resulting ineffective on other kind of dyes.

The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis the cellulose, at first it attacks the
having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Them it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and
partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and faded affect is produced.
There are different types of enzymes which are suitable for treating fabric stains and fabric stain
removal. In all cases, the enzyme washing process breaks the stain down into smaller molecules
which can then be removed. Enzyme washing also produces a softer, garment.

For delicate fabrics, enzyme washing can be an excellent way to get clothing fresh and clean
without harming the garment. Enzymes also function at low temperatures, making them suitable
for cold wash only fabrics. Many detergent products manufacturers blend enzymes into their
formulas, to ensure that they work at all temperatures. Clothing manufacturers often use enzyme
washing to make garments appear aged and worn, especially with denim jeans making them
look broken in and used. The enzymes will not affect the strength of the fabric, but they will
make the denim softer and more worn looking.

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2.10 Laser reatment (Sustainable)

A more recent and sustainable denim washing technique is laser washing. Lasers are used to
burn off the indigo dye, creating fading and whiskering effects without the use of water, stones,
or chemicals. This method also allows for a high degree of precision and customization, as
designers can program the lasers to create specific patterns and designs.

A Laser Wash in denim refers to an innovative, eco-friendly technique used in the denim
industry to achieve a distressed or worn look on denim fabrics, particularly jeans. This method
utilizes laser technology to create precise patterns of fading, whiskering, and other effects on
denim without the use of harsh chemicals or excessive water, making it a sustainable alternative
to traditional denim finishing processes.

The laser wash process begins by using a laser machine, which emits high-powered beams of
light onto the denim fabric. The laser interacts with the fabric's surface, breaking down the color
in a controlled manner, and allowing for the creation of specific designs and patterns. These
designs can mimic natural wear-and-tear, such as creases, faded areas, or vintage washes, that
would typically be achieved through manual distressing or chemical treatments.

One of the major advantages of using a Laser Wash in denim production is the environmental
benefit. Traditional denim washing methods often rely on large amounts of water, chemicals,
and energy. Laser technology significantly reduces water consumption and eliminates the need
for harmful chemicals like bleach or stone washing agents. This not only reduces the
environmental impact of denim manufacturing but also leads to less waste and pollution.

2.11 Enzyme and Laser treatment

Enzyme and Laser treatment is a modern, eco-friendly technique used in the denim industry to
create aesthetically worn and distressed finishes on denim garments. This combination of two
advanced processes enzyme washing and laser technology results in a superior, sustainable, and
highly customizable product, reducing the environmental impact traditionally associated with
denim finishing.

Enzyme Wash involves the use of natural enzymes, typically cellulases, to break down the
cellulose in cotton fibers. These enzymes soften the fabric, reduce its stiffness, and create a
naturally faded look. The process is more sustainable compared to traditional methods, such as
stone-washing, because it requires fewer chemicals and less water. Enzyme washing also results
in a smoother, softer texture, enhancing the comfort of the denim while creating a worn-in
appearance that mimics years of use. This method is gentler on the fabric, maintaining the
integrity of the material while achieving the desired distressed effect.

Laser treatment employs laser technology to precisely remove color from specific areas of the
denim. The laser beam burns off the dye on the fabric, creating detailed patterns like whiskers,
fades, and worn-out spots. This highly controlled technique allows for intricate designs,
producing a more consistent and uniform result compared to manual distressing methods. Laser
washing is also more environmentally friendly, as it eliminates the need for excessive water,
chemicals, and mechanical abrasion. It can be used to enhance the effects of the enzyme wash,
providing a final touch of detailed fading or distressing.
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When combined, Enzyme Wash and Laser Wash offer a highly efficient, sustainable, and
precise method for producing fashionable, eco-conscious denim. The enzyme wash softens and
fades the fabric, while the laser wash adds intricate, detailed designs, ensuring a high-quality
finish with minimal environmental impact.

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Project Outline

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3.1 Project Outline

Sample Collection
(Denim fabric)

Pre-Treatment (De-
sizing, Scouring)

Enzyme or Acid Wash

Clean up to adjust the

desire effect

Bleaching

Tinting/ Dyeing

Softening

Drying

Tests (Weight loss,

Shrinkage, C/F to
Washing, Water,
Rubbing, Perspiration)

Compare the results

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Chapter 04: Materials & Methods

Page | 13
4.1 Materials

4.1.1 Sample fabric (Denim)

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The
blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvage). The white yarns
run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton
yarn however; today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to
add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and
stonewashed, and the indigo.

Fabric information:

Yarn Count: 7.4+8.2 X 15.4+40D

Compositions: 88% Cotton, 10% Polyester, 2% Spandex Density: 78X56

Weave: 3/1 RHT

4.1.2 Chemicals used for Enzyme and Acid wash

Table 4.1: List of chemicals used for Enzyme and Acid wash

Chemical Name Origin of Country Company

Lanzene Row B4 Sri Lanka S and D Chemicals
Enzyme (PVT) LT
Dispersolmex 1080 Turkey Intersac

Acetic Acid Turkey Intersac

Acid
Formic Acid Turkey Intersac

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4.2 Methods

4.2.1 Acid washing process

A process of Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser are mentioned below:

i. First Step: Pretreatment/De-sizing:

1. Add water L: R = 1:10........................600 liters.

2. Start Machine.
3. Add de-sizing agent 1gm/liter.............600 gm.
4. Add detergent 1gm/liter......................600 gm.
5. Temperature..........................................60°c.
6. Time......................................................20 minutes.
7. Drop the liquor.
8. Rinse one for..........................................3 minutes (cold).

ii. Second Step: Hot wash:

1. Add water L: R = 1: 10.......................600 liters.

2. Temperature........................................60°c.
3. Time......................................................5 minutes.
4. Drop the liquor.
5. Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.
6. Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley.
7. Load the pretreated garments in the dryer m/c.
8. Dry the garment completely & unload the garments.
9. The pumic stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:
10. Water...................................................100 L
11. Potassium per manganite.....................1000 gm.
12. Phosphoric Acid....................................250 gm.
13. Stir the solution in a stainless-steel tub with dry pumic stone.
14. Soak the stones with the chemical solution 10 –15 minutes.
15. The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for
2 to 3 hrs.
16. Then pre-treated garment 30 –40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.
17. Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.
18. Start machine running for each batch 7 to 10 minutes.
19. Stop machine running & unload the treated garment separately. Pumice stones with P.P.
solution hit on garment surface as a result fading will be developed.
20. Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.

iii. Third Step: Wash for Cleaning:

1. Batch wt. 70 kg.

2. Add water L: R = 1: 8. 560 liters.
3. Add detergent 1gm/liter 560 gm.
4. Temperature............................40°c -50°c.

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 5. Time........................................10 minutes.
6. Drop the liquor.
7. Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the
garment surface.

iv. Fourth Step: Whitening/Neutralization:

1. Add water L: R = 1: 8......................560 liters.

2. Machine running.
3. Add Meta bi-sulphite 5gm/liter.......2800 gm.
4. Cold temperature.
5. Time 5 minutes.

v. Fifth Step: Soft Wash:

1. Add water L: R = 1: 7...................490 liters.

2. Machine running.
3. Add acetic acid 0.6gm/ liter..........294 gm.
4. Add Softener 1 gm/liter.................490 gm.
5. Then unload the garments.

vi. Sixth Step: Hydro Extractor Machine:

1. Hydro extractor machine to remove excess water from the garments.

vii. Seventh Step: Dryer Machine:

1. After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
viii. Eighth Step: Quality& Delivery:

1. After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and
then good one delivery.
Precaution:

1. Maintain the stock solution properly constant when comes socking the stone.
2. No water licks age in to the machine when treated pumice stone & garments in to the
machine.

3. Not excess load the garments in the Acid wash processing.

4. Add some new stone after finishing on batch to maintain the volume for 2nd batch. It is a
matter of experience.

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4.2.2 Process flowchart of Acid wash

Garments loading in machine

↓

De-size
↓

Extracting the garments

↓
Drying
↓
Soaking of pumice stone
↓

Damp pumice stone

↓
Neutralization the garments
↓
Softening
↓

Extracting the garments

↓
Drying
.
4.2.3 Effect of Acid ratio:

Figure-3.1 shows that with stone ratio below 0.5:1, no significant color fading effect in
the denim garments is noted. When the acid ratio is high, the color fading effect becomes
enhanced. However, too high acid ratio may cause severe abrasion leading to fabric
damage.

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Figure 4.1: Acid washed fabric sample

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4.2.4 Enzyme Washing Process

i. First Step: De-sizing:

2. Lot weight (80 pics)..............60 kg denim long pant.

3. Add water L: R = 1: 9...............540 liters.
4. Machine Running.
5. Temperature...........................60°C.
6. Add De-sizing agent 0.6 gm / liter..............324 gm.
7. Add Detergent 0.8gm / liter.....................432 gm.
8. Time...............................10--20 minute.
9. Drop the liquor.
10. Wash 1 time by cold water.

ii. Second Step: Enzyme

1. Add water L: R = 1: 8...............450 Liter

2. Temperature...........................45°C.
3. Add Acetic Acid 0.6gm / liter.....................270 gm.
4. Add Anti back staining 0.6gm / liter.........270 gm.
5. Add Acid Enzyme 2.00gm / liter..................900 gm.
6. Time.............. (Depend upon the shade) ...40--60 minute.
7. Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).
8. Drain the bath.
9. Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

iii. Third Step: Softening

1. Add water L: R = 1: 8.......................450 Liter.

2. Add Acetic Acid 0.6gm / liter..............270 gm.
3. Cationic Softener 1gm / liter...............450 gm.
4. Temperature....................................Cold.
5. Time..................................................15 to 20 minutes.
6. Drain the bath.
7. Then unload the garments on trolley.

iv. Fourth Step: Hydro extractor Machine

1. After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro
extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

v. Fifth Step: Drying Machine

1. Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

2. Temperature set 75°C to 85°C.
3. Run about 40 minutes.
4. After then run 10 minutes in cold dryer.
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vi. Sixth Step: Delivery
1. After dryer, garment goes to quality section for quality checking and goods one
delivery.

Figure 4.2: Enzyme washed fabric sample

4.2.5 Process flowchart of Enzyme wash

Garments loading
↓
De-size
↓

Rinse (Two times)

↓
Enzyme
↓

Rinse (Two times)

↓
Softener
↓

Unload the garments

↓

Hydro extractor Machine

↓
Drying

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4.3 Different Testing Procedure
4.3.1 Color Fastness to Washing [ISO 105-C06:2010(E)]

Principle:

A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is laundered, rinsed
and dried. Specimens are laundered under appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity,
bleaching and abrasive action such that the result is obtained in a conveniently short time. The
abrasive action is accomplished by the
Use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the
specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric or fabrics are assessed by comparison with the
grey scales or instrumentally.

Apparatus:
1. Non-corrodible (stainless) steel balls, ≈ 6 mm in diameter.
2. A multi-fiber adjacent fabric
3. Grade 3 water
4. Grey scale for assessing change in color, complying with ISO 105-A02.
5. Grey scale for assessing change in color, complying with ISO 105-A02.

Chemical Solution:
ECE detergent =4 g/l
Na perborate=1 g/l
Grade 3 water= 1 Liter.

Test specimen:
Attach a specimen measuring (100 ± 2) mm * (40 ± 2) mm to a piece of the multi- fiber
adjacent fabric also measuring (100 ± 2) mm * (40 ± 2) mm, by sewing along one of the
shorter edges, with the multi-fiber adjacent fabric next to the face side of the specimen.

Test procedures:
1. Prepare the washing solution containing perborate at the time of use by heating
the liquor to a maximum temperature of 60 °C for not more than 30 min.
2. Add to each stainless steel container the volume of wash liquor specified. Adjust
the temperature of the liquor to within ±2°C of the specified temperature and then
place the specimen, together with the specified number of steel balls in the
container.
3. Close the container and operate the machine at the temperature and for the time
specified.
4. Remove the composite specimen at the end of the wash and rinse twice for 1 min
in two separate 100 ml portions of water (4.8) at 40 °C.
5. Extract the excess water from the composite specimen.
6. Dry the specimen by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with
the parts in contact only at the line of stitching.
7. Assess the change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric
using the grey scales.

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4.3.2 Color Fastness to Water [ISO 105-E01:2013(E)]

Principle:

A specimen of the textile in contact with either two single-fiber adjacent fabrics or a multi-
fiber adjacent fabric is immersed in water, drained and placed between two plates under a
specified pressure in a test device. The specimen and the adjacent fabric(s) are dried
separately. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s)
are assessed by comparison with the grey scales or instrumentally.
Apparatus:

1. Test device: consisting of a frame of stainless steel into which a weight-piece of

mass approximately 5 kg and base of 60 mm × 115 mm is closely fitted, so that a
pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa can be applied on test specimens measuring (40 ± 2)
mm × (100 ± 2) mm placed between glass or acrylic-resin plates measuring
approximately 60 mm × 115 mm × 1,5 mm. The test device shall be constructed
so that, if the weight-piece is removed during the test, the pressure remains
unchanged. If the dimensions of the composite specimen differ from the size of
(40
± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm, the weight-piece used shall be such that a nominal
pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa is applied to the specimen. Other devices may be
used provided that equivalent results are obtained.
2. Oven, maintained at (37 ± 2) °C.
3. A multi-fiber adjacent fabric complying with ISO 105-F10.
4. Grey scale for assessing change in color, complying with ISO 105-A02.
5. Grey scale for assessing staining, complying with ISO 105-A03.
6. A set of 11 glass or acrylic resin plates.
7. Flat-bottomed dish made of inert materials.
Reagents:
Grade 3 water, complying with ISO 3696.
Test specimen:
Attach a specimen measuring (40 ± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm to a piece of the multi-fibre
adjacent fabric also measuring (40 ± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm, by sewing along one of the
shorter sides, with the multi-fiber fabric next to the face of the specimen.
Procedure:
1 Lay out the composite specimen smoothly in a flat-bottomed dish and cover with
grade 3 water at room temperature. Thoroughly wet the composite specimen in this
solution at an approximate liquor ratio of 50:1, and allow it to remain in the solution
at room temperature for 30 min. Press and move it from time to time to ensure good
and uniform penetration of the liquor. Pour off the solution and wipe the excess
liquor off the specimen between two glass rods.
2 Place the composite specimen between the two glass or acrylic-resin plates under a
nominal pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa, and place in the test device, which has been
preheated to the test temperature.

NOTE: Up to 10 test specimens, each separated from the next by one plate, can be tested
in one test device simultaneously. If less than 10 specimens are prepared, all 11 plates
Page | 22
must still be used to maintain the correct nominal pressure.

Page | 23
 3. Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the oven for 4 h at (37
± 2) °C, positioning it so that the test specimens are in either the horizontal
position or the vertical position depending on the type of device available.
4. Open out the composite specimen (by breaking the stitching, except on one of the
shorter sides, if necessary). Specimens that show signs of drying should be
discarded.
5. Dry the specimen by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with
the two or three parts in contact only at the line of stitching.
6. Assess the change in color of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent
fabric(s) with reference to the original specimen and adjacent fabric(s) by
comparison with the grey scales.

4.3.3 Color Fastness to Rubbing [EN ISO 105-X12:2016(E)]

Principle:
1. This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the color of
textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing
off and staining other materials.
2. Two tests may be made, one with a dry rubbing cloth and one with a wet rubbing cloth.

Apparatus:
1. Suitable testing device for determining the color fastness to rubbing.
2. Cotton rubbing cloth, de-sized, bleached, without finish, cut into 50 mm squares (±2 mm)
for the finger used.
3. Grey scale, for assessing staining, in accordance with ISO 105-A03.

Test specimens:
If the textile to be tested is a fabric or textile floor covering, two pieces not less than 50
mm × 140 mm are required for dry rubbing and two for wet rubbing.

Procedure:
 Dry rubbing:

1. Place the conditioned rubbing cloth flat over the end of the finger with the weave
parallel to the direction of rubbing finger. At a rate of one cycle per second, rub to
and fro in a straight line 20 times, 10 times to and 10 times for, along a track (104 ±
3) mm long on the dry specimen, with downward force of (9 ± 0,2) N.
2. Remove test square and condition.
3. Remove any extraneous fibrous material that might interfere with the rating.

 Wet rubbing:
1. Establish a technique for preparing rubbing cloth by weighing a conditioned
piece of cloth, then thoroughly soak in distilled water and reweigh to ensure take-
up of 95 % to 100 %. Follow the instructions for rubbing as dry rubbing.

Page | 24
 NOTE: As the level of soak of the rubbing cloth may dramatically affect ratings, other
levels can be used. An example of a very commonly used level of soak is (65 ± 5) %.

 Drying: Air dry the test cloth.

Evaluation:

Back each tested rubbing cloth with three layers of white rubbing cloth while evaluating.
Assess the staining of the cotton rubbing cloths with the grey scale for staining under
suitable Illumination.

4.3.4 Color Fastness to Perspiration [ISO 105-E04:2013(E)]

Principle:

Specimens of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics are treated in two different solutions
containing histidine, drained and placed between two plates under a specified pressure in a test
device. The specimens and the adjacent fabrics are dried separately. The change in color of each
specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed by comparison with the grey
scales or instrumentally.

Apparatus:
1. Test device: consisting of a frame of stainless steel into which a weight-piece of
mass approximately 5 kg and base of 60 mm × 115 mm is closely fitted, so that a
pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa can be applied on test specimens measuring (40 ± 2)
mm × (100 ± 2) mm placed between glass or acrylic-resin plates measuring
approximately 60 mm × 115 mm × 1,5 mm. The test device shall be constructed
so that, if the weight-piece is removed during the test, the pressure remains
unchanged. If the dimensions of the composite specimen differ from the size of
(40
± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm, the weight-piece used shall be such that a nominal
pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa is applied to the specimen. Other devices may be
used provided that equivalent results are obtained.
2. Oven, maintained at (37 ± 2) °C.
3. A multi-fiber adjacent fabric complying with ISO 105-F10.
4. Grey scale for assessing change in color, complying with ISO 105-A02.
5. Grey scale for assessing staining, complying with ISO 105-A03.
6. A set of 11 glass or acrylic resin plates.
7. Flat-bottomed dish made of inert materials.

Solution:
1. Alkaline solution, freshly prepared, using grade 3 water complying with ISO
3696, containing, per liter.
— 0,5 g of l-histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3·HCl·H2O);
— 5 g of sodium chloride (NaCl); and either

Page | 25
— 2,5 g of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate (Na2HPO4·2H2O).
The solution is brought to pH 8 (±0,2) with 0,1 mol/l sodium hydroxide
solution.

Page | 26
 2. Acid solution, freshly prepared, using grade 3 water complying with ISO 3696,
containing, per liter:
— 0,5 g of l-histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3·HCl·H2O);
— 5 g of sodium chloride (NaCl);
— 2,2 g of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate (NaH2PO4·2H2O).
The solution is brought to pH 5,5 (±0,2) with 0,1 mol/l sodium hydroxide solution.

Test specimen:
Attach a specimen measuring (40 ± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm to a piece of the multi-fiber
adjacent fabric also measuring (40 ± 2) mm × (100 ± 2) mm, by sewing along one of the
shorter sides, with the multi-fiber fabric next to the face of the specimen.
Procedure
1. Lay out the composite specimen smoothly in a flat-bottomed dish and cover with
alkaline solution. Thoroughly wet the composite specimen in this solution at pH 8
(±0,2) at an approximate liquor ratio of 50:1, and allow it to remain in the solution
at room temperature for 30 min. Press and move it from time to time to ensure good
and uniform penetration of the liquor. Pour off the solution and wipe the excess
liquor off the specimen between two glass rods.
2. Place the composite specimen between two glass or acrylic-resin plates under a
nominal pressure of (12,5 ± 0,9) kPa, and place in a test device which has been
preheated to the test temperature.
3. By the same procedure, wet a composite specimen in the acid solution at pH to 5,5
(±0,2) and then test it in a separate pre-heated test device.
NOTE: Up to 10 test specimens, each separated from the next by one plate, can be
tested in one test device simultaneously. If less than 10 specimens are prepared, all
11 plates must still be used to maintain the correct nominal pressure.
4. Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the oven for 4 h at (37± 2) °C,
positioning it so that the test specimens are in either the horizontal position or the vertical
position depending on the type of device available.
5. Open out each composite specimen (by breaking the stitching except on one of the
shorter sides, if necessary) and dry it by hanging it in air at a temperature not
exceeding 60 °C, with the two or three parts in contact only at the line of stitching.
6. Assess the change in color of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent
fabric(s) by comparison with the grey scales.

Page | 27
Chapter 05: Tensile strength

Page | 28
5.1 Tensile strength

Tensile strength in textiles refers to the maximum force a fabric can withstand while being
stretched or pulled before breaking. This property is crucial for determining the durability and
performance of fabrics in various applications, from everyday clothing to specialized industrial
uses.

5.2 Measurement Methods:

Tensile strength is typically measured using standardized testing methods to ensure accuracy
and comparability. Two common tests include:

1. Strip Test (AATCC/ISO 13934-1): A strip of fabric is clamped at both ends and
pulled until it breaks. This method measures both the maximum force and the elongation
at maximum force.

2. Grab Test (AATCC/ISO 13934-2): A sample is clamped in the center with jaws
smaller than the sample width and pulled until it breaks. This test is often used for
fabrics with irregular shapes or patterns.

5.3 Factors Influencing Tensile Strength:

Several factors affect a fabric's tensile strength:

1. Fiber Type: Natural fibers like cotton have different tensile strengths compared to
synthetic fibers like polyester.
2. Yarn Construction: The way yarns are spun, including twist level and yarn count,
impacts the fabric's strength.
3. Fabric Structure: The weave or knit pattern influences how forces are distributed
across the fabric. Tighter weaves generally offer greater tensile strength compared to
looser weaves.
4. Finishing Processes: Treatments such as mercerization can enhance the tensile
strength of fabrics.

5.4 Importance of Tensile Strength:

Understanding and measuring tensile strength is essential for:

1. Quality Control: Ensuring fabrics meet required performance standards for specific
applications.
2. Application Suitability: Selecting appropriate fabrics for products subjected to
mechanical stress, such as workwear, upholstery, and outdoor gear.

Page | 29
Chapter 06: Results & Discussion

Page | 30
6.1 Summary of the test results

6.2 Graphical representation of the test result

6.2.1 Graphical Representation of Color Fastness to crocking

5
4.5
4
3.5
3
2.5
Dry
2
Wet
1.5
1
0.5
0
Muriball Acid Chokshit Acid Enzyme Stone Wash Water Free Laser
Wash Wash Wash Enzyme Treatment
Wash

Figure 6.1: C/F to Washing test result graph of Muriball Acid wash, Chokshit Acid wash,
Enzyme wash, stone wash, water-free Enzyme Wash, and Acid washed fabric

Discussion: The Graph clearly shows that CF to rubbing is comparatively

better in Muri-ball and crock-shit acid wash than Enzymes and laser
treatments.

Page | 31
6.2.2 Graphical representation of Tearing Strength

12

10

6
Warp
Weft
4

0
Muriball Acid Chokshit Enzyme Stone Wash Water Free Laser
Wash Acid Wash Wash Enzyme Treatment
Wash

Figure 6.2: Tearing Strength to Washing test result graph of Muriball Acid wash, Chokshit Acid
wash, Enzyme wash, stone wash, water-free Enzyme Wash, and Acid washed fabric

Discussion: The Graph clearly indicates that the tearing strength is

significantly better in the Muri-ball and crock-shit acid wash compared to the
stone enzyme wash. This provides a valuable comparison with enzymes and
laser treatments.

Page | 32
6.2.3 Graphical Representation of Tensile Strength

200
180
160
140
120
100
Warp
80
Weft
60
40
20
0
Muriball Chokshit Enzyme Stone Wash Water Free Laser
Acid Wash Acid Wash Wash Enzyme Treatment
Wash

Figure 6.3: Tensile Strength to Washing test result graph of Muriball Acid wash, Chokshit Acid
wash, Enzyme wash, stone wash, water-free Enzyme Wash, and Acid washed fabric

Discussion: The Graph clearly indicates that the Tensile strength is

significantly better in the Muri-ball and crock-shit acid wash compared to the
enzyme wash. This provides a valuable comparison with stone enzymes and
laser treatments.

Chapter 07: Conclusion

Page | 33
7.1 Conclusion:

After completing the washing process, a series of tests were conducted to evaluate its
effects. The results highlighted that weight loss percentage occurred due to the use of
enzymes, along with enzyme treatments combined with stone wash, acid wash, and laser
treatments, all while keeping sustainability in mind. Various color fastness tests were
performed, including color fastness to wash, rubbing, and perspiration.

The findings indicated that acid-washed samples exhibited superior color fastness to
wash compared to both enzyme and stone enzyme samples, as well as those treated with
laser washing. Additionally, acid-washed samples performed better in both color fastness
to rubbing and color fastness to perspiration against enzyme-washed samples. However,
in the tearing test, enzyme-washed samples showed better results than acid-washed ones.
Conversely, in terms of shrinkage, enzyme-washed samples outperformed acid-washed
samples.

Overall, acid-washed samples from both muri-ball and crock-sheet demonstrated

preferable qualities.

7.1.1 References:

1. All types of documents and testing are collected performed in Bright Wash Unit-
02. a 100% export oriented factory of Ha-Meem Group.
2. Heikinheimo, L., Buchert, J., Miettinen-Oinonen, A., & Suominen, P. (2000);
treating denim fabrics with Trichodermareset cellulases. Textile Research
Journal, 70(11), 969-973.
3. Tarhan,M&Sarnsik, M. (2009); A comparison among performance characteristics
of various denim fading processes. Textile Research Journal, 79(4), 301-309.
4. C.W., Yuen, C.W.M., & Wong, W.Y. (2011); optimizing color fading effect of
cotton denim fabric by enzyme treatment. Journal of applied polymer science,
120(6), 3596-3603.
5. Vigny, A., & Henry, J. P. (1981); Bovine adrenal tyrosine hydroxylase:
comparative study of native and proteolysis enzyme, and their interaction with
anions. Journal of neurochemistry, 36(2), 483-489.
6. Card, A., Moore, M. A., & Ankeny, M. (2006); Garment washed jeans: impact of
launderings on physical properties. International Journal of Clothing Science and
Technology, 18(1), 43-52.
7. Montazer, M., & Maryan, A. S. (2008); Application of laccases with celluloses
on denim for clean effluent and repeatable bio washing. Journal of applied
polymer science, 110(5), 3121-3129.
8. Zimmerman, Keith. "Cellulose enzymes won't leave your laundry washed up.
General OneFile Web 9 Aug 2013.

Page | 34
Annex

Page | 35
 Annex-A

Sample of Enzyme Washed Fabric:

Page | 36
 Annex-B

Color Fastness Assessment of Enzyme Washed Fabric

Page | 37
 Annex-C

Sample of Acid Washed Fabric

Page | 38
 Annex-D

Color Fastness Assessment of Acid Washed Fabric:

Page | 39