WPE: 311

Wet Processing- II

Part-A: Textile Printing

Mohammad Shohag
Lecturer, DoWPE
BUTEX
Email: [email protected]
 Curriculum Details

- Credit of the course is 3.

- Hour/Week 3.
- Total Week 14.
- Total Hour 42 (Part-A 21 Classes & Part-B 21 Classes).
Part A(Textile Printing) Part B(Textile finishing)
1. Introduction to Printing. 1. Introduction to Finishing.
2. Thickener 2. Physical or Mechanical Finishing.
3. Style of Printing. 3. Chemical Finishing.
4. Printing Methods/techniques 4. Special Finishing.
5. Special printing method.
6. Printing with different
dyes/pigment
Part A: Mohammad Shohag
Part B: Mahfuza Pervin Shumi
 MARKS ALLOCATION

1.CLASS ATTENDANCE =8
2.CLASS TEST (5×4) =20
3.FINAL =72(Part A-36, Part B-36)
TOTAL =100
 Reference Book:

1. Principle of Textile Printing by Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury.

2. Textile printing by Leslie W C Miles.

3. Technology of Printing edited by Prof. V. A. Shenai.

Chapter-1: Introduction to Printing
 Table of Contents

• Definition of Printing

• Objectives of printing

• History of printing

• Chronological development of Printing technology.

• Difference between dyeing and printing.

• Steps of textile printing process using dye

• Functions of print paste ingredients with example.

 What is Textile Printing?
Textile printing is the most versatile and important of the methods used for
introducing color and design to textile fabrics. The term ‘’textile printing’’ means
the localized application of dyes or pigments and chemicals by any method
which can produce particular effect of color on the fabric according to the
design.
In printing dye/pigment and chemical are applied in paste form, this paste are created
with dyes/pigments, thickener, other necessary chemicals etc.
Printed fabric can be identified by looking at back side of fabric where there is no design
or color as face side.
 Objectives of Printing

➢ To add color on localized area.

➢ To produce various attractive designs.

➢ Allows greater design flexibility over other system.

➢ Inexpensive product compared to other system.

➢ Combines art, engineering, and dyeing technology to produce images

that existed only in the textile designer’s mind.
Block Printing Technology
Roller Printing Technology
Screen Printing Technology
Transfer Printing Technology
Digital Printing Technology
 Historical Perspective of Textile Printing
• Fabric printing is not a new process; in fact, it’s been around for many
centuries. Ancient civilizations used color and design to set themselves
apart.
• Textile printing is an ancient art, from the 4th and 5th centuries BC. The first
commonly used textile printing method originated in China, where examples of
wooden block printing have been discovered. At the beginning of the 17th
century, the East India Company began to ship block printed cotton fabric to
England.
• Later, in the 18th century (near about 1785), a printing technique using rollers
or cylinders emerged. This is a process whereby the fabric is carried along a
rotating central cylinder and pressed by a series of rollers, each of which is
engraved with the design. The process was much faster than the block printing
process.
 Historical Perspective of Textile Printing
• The 20th century marked the arrival of the modern silk-screen printing
process. In the mid-20th century, multi-color rotary screen-printing
enabled screen printing on a large scale and at a faster rate, making it more
economical.
• In 1750s Transfer printing invented for decorating pottery or ceramic items. In
the middle of 20th century it becomes enormously popular in other sectors like
textiles, home album, tourism etc.
• Today, we have digital textile printing, which uses computer-controlled lasers
to inject the ink directly into the fabric. This allows the printing of very
detailed designs extremely quickly and efficiently.
 Chronological Development of Textile Printing Machine

Method Period Origin

Block printing Ancient China
Roller printing 1785 Scotland
Manual Screen printing 1900 England
Automatic flat bed Screen printing 1940 Switzerland
Rotary Screen printing 1963 Portugal
Transfer Printing 1968 France
Inkjet/Digital printing 1990 USA
 Difference between Dyeing and Printing
Dyeing Printing
Dyeing is a thorough coloration process of
Printing is the localized application of dyes and
textile materials in which dyes and pigments
1 are applied from a solubilized medium to the pigments from a solubilized or a insolubilized
medium to the fabric surface.
textile materials.

2 Color is applied in form of solution Color is applied in form of thick paste

Whole fabric is uniformly covered with One or more colors are applied only to
3
one color defined areas to obtain the desired pattern.

4 No use of thickener Thickener is used

Steaming is used in the printed fabric for

5 Steaming is not required on dyed fabric
fixation

6 More time is required Less time is required

7 Huge amount of water is required Less amount of water is required

8 Fiber, yarn and fabric,garments are dyed Mostly fabric is printed but now a days yarn
are also printing.
 Steps of Textile Printing Process
Grey Fabric

Preparation of Fabric

Artworks received from

Design Selection buyer to follow design

Preparation of print paste Color Separation

Printing on the fabric by block/roller/screen

Design transfer to
Drying of the printed fabric blocks/rollers/screens

Steaming of the printed fabric

Washing and Soaping

Final dry
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.

1. Dyes or Pigments
2. Thickener
3. Wetting agents
4. Solvent/dispersing agents
5. Defoaming agents
6. Oxidizing agents
7. Reducing agents
8. Catalyst and oxygen carrier
9. Acids and Alkalis
10. Carrier
11. Swelling agents
12. Hygroscopic agents
13. Binder.
14. Fixer
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
1. Dyes or Pigments:
➢Produce color effect on the fabric.
➢Achieve required shade.
➢Attraction of dyes to the fabric due to presence of auxochrome.
Example: Direct dyes, Reactive dyes, Vat dyes, Acid dyes, Basic dyes, Disperse Dyes, Azoic dyes
and Pigments.
2. Thickener:
➢ To give required viscosity to the printing paste.
➢ To prevent premature reactions between the chemicals contained in the print paste.
➢ To hold the ingredients of the print paste on the fabric.
Example: Starch, Na-Alginate, Guar gum, British gum, Locust bean gum, Gum arabic, Gum
tragacanth, CMC(carboxy methyl cellulose) etc.
3. Wetting Agents:
➢ To reduce the surface tension of water allowing the dyestuff for easy penetration into fabric.
➢ To wet the fabric as well as dissolve the dyestuff in the paste.
➢ To obtain smooth paste
Example: Turkey Red Oil(T.R Oil), Olive oil, Castor oil, Glycerin, Almond oil, Lissapol N. animal oil etc.
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
4. Solvents or dispersing agents:
➢To prevent aggregation of the dye molecules in the highly concentrated paste.
➢To spread dye molecules evenly in the paste.
➢To increase solubility of the dyes.
➢To get bright and prominent print design.
Example: urea, Glycerin, di ethylene glycol, thio diethylene glycol, acetone, alcohol.
5. Defoaming agents:
➢To prevent the foam generation during printing.
➢To make proper printing shade.
Example: Silicone defoamers, Sulphated oil, Perminal KB, Emulsified pine oil.
6. Reducing Agents:
➢Used mainly in discharge style printing.
➢To destroy color from the ground of fabric.
➢To make the insoluble dyes to soluble form.
➢Used for reduction of different dyes.
Example: Rongalite C, sodium hydrosulphite.
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
7. Oxidizing agents :
➢ To develop the final color during steaming or in the after treatment.
➢ To assist dye fixation.
Example: Potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate, sodium nitrate, Na or K dichromate, ammonium
chloride etc.
8. Mild Oxidizing agents:
➢In case of steaming of azo dyes(-N=N-), the dye tends to reduce which may result in loss of color
value and destruction of dyes, to prevent this problem mild oxidizing agents are used.
Example: Resist salt, Ludigol
9. Catalyst and Oxygen Carrier:
➢ To prevent fiber damage during steaming.
➢ Accelerate the final color development by oxidation.
➢ Reduce the risk of oxidation.
Example: Copper sulphide, Potassium ferrocyanide, ammonium vanadate.
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
8. Acids and Alkalis:
➢ To maintain PH either acidic or alkali.
➢ To help fixation of dyes on fabric by creating suitable medium.
➢ To fix pigments and binders on fabric permanently.
Example: Acids- organic acid, ammonium chloride, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium
sulphate, ammonium nitrate etc.
Alkalis- sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium
bicarbonate, sodium silicate, trisodium phosphate, di sodium hydrogen phosphate.
11. Swelling agents:
➢Helps to swell the fiber structure.
➢To increase the intermolecular space of fiber.
➢Helps to penetrate the dye molecule inside fiber space.
Example: Phenol, polyethylene glycol, Diethylene glycol diacetate(DEGDA), Ethyl
lactate[CH3CH(OH)COOC2H5].
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
12. Carrier:
➢ Works like swelling agents.
➢ Lowering the glass transition temperature(tg) thus promote molecular chain movement and create
free volume.
Example: phenol, ortho phenyl phenol, para phenyl phenol, dichloro benzene.
13. Hygroscopic Agents:
➢ Absorb moisture from air.
➢ To assist dye fixation.
➢ Facilitate subsequent washing off.
Example: Urea, Glycerin etc.
14. Binder:
➢ Adhesive type film forming long chain polymeric substance which available in aqueous emulsion
that sticks pigment on fabric surface.
➢ It is copolymer of UTYLACRALATE-N-METHYLOL ACRYL AMIDE.
➢ During curing binder polymerises and forms a 3 dimensional very thin invisible film on fabric
surface, under this film pigment are remain sticked.
Example: Natural (gelatine, glue), synthetic (acramin binder, mostly used)
 Functions of print paste ingredients with example.
15. Fixer:
➢ Crosslinking agent helps in strengthening binder function, provide elasticity to film and crosslink
(covalent connection) between fabric and pigments.
➢ Works at high temperature (above 1600c).
Example: Melamine formaldehyde, urea formaldehyde.
Category of Problems:
1. What is textile printing?
2. State the functions of different print paste ingredients with example.
3. Write down the various stage of textile printing.
4. Mention the functions of oxidizing agent, alkali and urea in a print paste.
5. Differentiate between dyeing and printing.
6. Mention the functions of defoaming agents, hygroscopic agent and dispersing
agent in a print paste.
7. Mention the chronological development of printing era.