Basic Idea About

Textile Raw Materials/Fibres

What is Textile
The word “Textile” comes from the Latin word
“Textilis” The word ''textile'‘ originally applied only to
woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibres, yarns,
or fabrics or products made of fibres, yarns or fabrics.

The term textile originates from the Latin verb

‘texere’ which means to weave, but as the Textile
Institute Terms and Definitions Glossary explains, “it is
now a general term applied to any manufacture from
fibres, filaments or yarns characterized by flexibility,
fineness and high ratio of length to width / thickness”.
Now-a-days, Textile is not only limited to only
to weave but it is expanding into the
following area-

❑ Yarn Manufacturing
❑ Fabric Manufacturing
❑ Wet Processing / Textile Chemistry
❑ Apparel manufacturing
❑ Fashion Design
❑ Textile Management
❑ Technical Textiles
Textile raw materials are textile fibers
What is Fibre

Fibre is a natural or chemical substance consisting

of flexibility which has a high ratio of length to its
diameter (Normally length is 1000 times greater
than its diameter)

A substance can be a fiber if it fulfills following main

conditions -
❑ It must be flexible.
❑ It must have a sufficient length which is 1000
times greater than its diameter.
What is Textile Fibre

A Textile Fibre is a natural or chemical

substance which has all the requirements to
be a fibre and must have sufficient strength,
inter attraction force, fineness and
spinnability. A fibre which is spin able is
called textile fibre.
Properties of Textile Fibre

Primary properties of textile fibre:

▪ High length to width ratio.
▪ Strength / Tenacity.
▪ Flexibility.
▪ Inter attraction force.
▪ Spinning quality (Cohesiveness).
▪ Uniformity.
 Cont…
Secondary properties of textile fibre:
▪ Physical Shape.
▪ Elastic recovery & elongation.
▪ Resiliency.
▪ Flammability & other thermal reactions.
▪ Density.
▪ Luster.
▪ Colour.
▪ Moisture regain.
Classification of Textile Fiber
 Classification of Textile Fibre

Textile Fibre

Natural Fibre Man-made Fibre

Vegetable Animal Mineral

Regenerated Semi synthetic Synthetic

 Classification of Natural Fibre

Natural Fibre

Vegetable Animal Mineral

(Asbestos)

Seed Bast Leaf Fruit

(Cotton) (Jute) (Sisal) (Coir)

Wool Silk
Natural Fibre:
The term natural fibre means any fibre substance that
exists as such in the natural state.
a) Vegetable Fibre: As the name implies, the fibres
coming from the plants or vegetation is called vegetable
fibre. For example fibre growing on the seeds like cotton,
fibre growing on the skin like jute, linen, fibre collected
from the leaf such as Sisal and fibre collected from the fruit
such as coir.

b) Animal Fibre: The animal fibres are derived from

animals or animal body. Such as wool fibre collected from
the sheep and silk fibre collected from the silkworm.

c) Mineral Fibre: The fibre collected from mine is called

mineral fibre. Such as Asbestos, carbon, glass etc.
Man Made Fibre:
The term man made or manufactured fibres means any fibre
derived by a process of manufacture from any substance which
at any point in the manufacturing process is not a fibre.
a) Regenerated Fibre: The fibres regenerated from natural
cellulose sources like wood pulp or cotton linters are referred
to as regenerated fibres. Regenerated fibres are essentially
differs from the original one. Such as Viscose Rayon, Lyocell etc.

b) Semi Synthetic Fibre: Semi synthetic fibres are cellulosic

i.e. they are formed from natural polymeric materials such as
wood pulp, cotton linters etc. Cellulose acetate and triacetate
are belong to this group.

c) Synthetic Fibre: The synthetic fibres are non cellulosic.

True synthetic polymer fibres are products of the
polymerization of smaller chemical units into long chain
molecular polymers. Such as polyamide (nylon), Polyester,
Acrylic, Spandex etc.
Table for Classification of Fibre

Fibre
Natural Fibre Man Made Fibre
Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerat Semi Synthetic Inorganic
fibre fibre fibre ed fibre synthetic fibre fibre
fibre
Cotton, Silk, Asbestos Viscose Cellulose Nylon, Glass,
Flax, Wool etc. Rayon, acetate, Polyester, Carbon,
Ramie, Modal, Cellulose Acrylic, Metal etc.
Hemp, Lyocell triacetate Modacryli
Jute, etc. etc. c,
Kapok, Spandex,
Sisal, Polyolefin,
Pina, Coir PVC, PVA
etc. etc.
Depending on their form, fibres are subdivided into following
groups-
a) Fibril: A fibril is a very small cell or fibre, a long cell or
fibre of very small diameter, or a component of a cell wall.
The length of a fibre is conveniently measurable in inches
where as a fibril is measured in microns or millimicrons.
Depending on their form, fibres are subdivided into following
groups-
a) Fibril: A fibril is a very small cell or fibre, a long cell or
fibre of very small diameter, or a component of a cell wall.
The length of a fibre is conveniently measurable in inches
where as a fibril is measured in microns or millimicrons.

b) Staple Fibre: They are short lengths of fibres which

have been chopped from continuous filament in lengths of
approximately 15 - 500 mm. Staple fibre must be further
processed (spun) into yarn before it can be woven into
fabrics.
c) Continuous Filaments: A manufactured fibres of
indefinite length (continuous) extruded from the spinneret
during the fibre production process. The length of filament
is conveniently measured in yards or metres. They may be
mono or multi filaments.
The next stage of fibre is yarn or thread. A yarn is generic term
used for a continuous strand of textile fibre that may be
composed of endless filaments or shorter fibres twisted. Yarn
types are as follows-

a) Spun yarn: A yarn consisting of fibres of regular or irregular

staple length usually bound together by twist.

b) Filament Yarn: A yarn of an indefinite or extreme length

such as found naturally in silk. Manufactured fibres are
extruded into filaments that are converted into filament yarn.

c) Textured filament yarn: A yarn that has been

geometrically altered to impart bulk, increase moisture
absorption, etc.

d) Monofilament: Single filaments used as a yarn with or

without twist.

e) Multifilament: More than one filament form a yarn by help

of twist.
Methods of Fabric Formation
❑ Weaving Process: Produces woven fabric
such as shirt, pant, bed cover, sharee etc.
❑ Knitting Process: Produces knit fabric
such as T-shirt, Polo shirt, under garments
etc.
❑ Felting Process: Produces felted or non
woven fabric such as Blanket, Geo-jute etc.
❑ Braiding Process: Produces braid fabric
such as tape, shoe tape etc.
❑ Netting Process: Produces net fabric.
General Consideration with
Regards to Fibre Properties
 Fibre Morphology:

Morphology is the study of the size, shape and structure

of a material or textile fibre and the relationship between
these properties.

Morphology of Textile Fibre may be divided into the

following-

❑ The macro structure of a textile fibre and filament

❑ The micro structure of a textile fibre and filament
The macro structure of a textile fibre and filament

Fibre Length:
❑ Fibres shorter than 15 mm tend to have insufficient
length to permit them to be twisted.
❑ Fibres longer than about 150 mm tend to require
specialized spinning machinery which adds to the cost
of converting them into yarn.

Fibre Thickness:
❑ Fibres or filaments finer than about 10 micrometre
tend to become delicate or fragile.
❑ Fibres or filament exceeding about 50 micrometre in
thickness tend to give a yarn structure which is too
coarse and too thick for comfort when used as
apparel.
Fibre length to thickness ratio

❑ This ratio determines whether or not a fibre is

suitable for spinning into yarn.
❑ The smallest suitable ratio of fibre to fibre thickness
is about 350:1.
❑ Anything less than this- say about 200:1 indicates a
fibre which probably will not permit twisting into a
yarn.
❑ But a ratio of 1000:1 or more indicates a fibre which
should readily spin into a yarn.
Color

❑ Color is a feelings which can be created by reflection

of light.
❑ White or colorless fibres and filaments are preferred.
❑ Natural and delustred man made fibres are white to
off white in color.
❑ White or colorless fibres and filaments are preferred
because they can be dyed or printed with any hue of
color.
Translucency
❑ A translucent fibre will transmit light but is not
transparent.
❑ In general silk and man made fibres when bright
lustered are translucent.

Luster
❑ This is a subjective measure of the reflection of
incident light from a fibre.
❑ The more lustrous a fibre, the more evenly does if
reflect the incident light.
❑ The less lustrous a fibre, the less evenly does if
reflect the incident light.
❑ Cotton has a kidney shape structure and wool is a
serrate structure, the result is that these fibre scatter
the incident light and are those dull fibres.
The micro structure of a textile fibre and filament

Fibre Tenacity

❑ The tenacity or strength of a fibre is in general

directly related to the length of its polymers and
polymer orientation.
❑ Thus the longer fibre are stronger and the fibre
which have crystalline region in polymer chain are
more stronger.
Elastic Plastic Nature of Fibre

❑ A fibre with a rather crystalline region tends to be

stiff and inflexible owing to restricted polymer
movement.
❑ Excessive bending or stretching of such a fibre tends
to cause polymer rupture.
❑ A more amorphous polymer system has sufficiently
large inter polymer spaces into which polymer can be
displaced when the fibre is bent or stretched giving
fibre a softer handle.
Hygroscopic Nature

❑ The hygroscopic nature of a fibre is directly related

to the polarity of its polymer and the ratio of
amorphous and crystalline region.
❑ A hygroscopic or absorbent fibre tends to have a
predominantly amorphous polymer system consisting
of polar polymers.
❑ Highly crystalline polymer system do not permit
ready entry of water molecules even if the polymers
are distinctly polar as in the case of nylon.
Thermal Properties

❑ The most important thermal property of a textile

material or fibre is the temperature at which it may
soften and begin to melt.
❑ The temperature of a relative measure of the fibres
heat resistance.

Chemical Properties

❑ The general chemical reactivity of individual fibre

polymer composition is given.
❑ A fibres chemical properties are directly influenced
by the ratio of amorphous and crystalline region.
Structures of Fiber
Fibre to Garments Flow Chart

Monomer

Polymer

Fibre

Yarn

Fabric

Garments
Monomer & Polymer

The individual small molecule from which polymer is formed

is called monomer. The word mono means one and the
word mer means unit. So monomer means one unit or
single unit.

Fibre molecules which formed monomer is called polymer.

The word poly means many and mer means unit. So
polymer means many unit. The process by which the
monomer molecules are linked to formed a big polymer
molecule is called polymerization.

At the molecular level the polymer is extremely long and

linear where as the monomer is very small. Monomers are
usually reactive where as polymers tend to unreactive.
 Arrangement of Polymer Chain

❑ Crystallinity: Crystallinity is the crystalline or regular

arrangement of polymer chain in a polymer system. In
crystalline region polymer chains are being parallel or
near about parallel one to another.

Influences:
❖ Polymer chains are being parallel or near about parallel
one to another. So that the hydrogen bonds among
polymer chains are very strong. Strength is increases in
the polymer system.
❖ There is small gap or no gap between two polymer
chain. So that the water molecule can not easily enter
into the polymer system. Water absorbency of polymer
system is reduce.
❑ Amorphous: Amorphous is the irregular arrangement
of polymer chain in a polymer system. In amorphous
region polymer chains are being irregular or random one
to another.

Influences:
❖ Polymer chains are being irregular or random one to
another. So that the hydrogen bonds among polymer
chains are very weak. Strength is decreases in the
polymer system.
❖ There is many gap between two polymer chain. So that
the water molecule can easily enter into the polymer
system. Water absorbency of polymer system is
increases.
Crystalline & Amorphous Region
Effect of Crystalline and Amorphous Region in
Fibre
Difference between Crystalline and Amorphous Fibre

Crystalline Fibre Amorphous Fibre

Stronger Weaker

Less absorbent More absorbent

More durable Less durable

Less easily degraded by chemicals More easily degraded by chemicals.

Less easily dyed More easily dyed

Less pliable, stiffer handling More pliable, softer handling

Less plastic, resist being distorted Plastic, more easily distorted.

Moisture Regain (M.R)

Moisture regain is the amount of water taken from

environment in its oven dry weight when any substance
are kept into the open environment. Mathematically
Moisture regain is the ratio of weight of water taken
from the environment to its oven dry weight. It is
usually expressed as percentage.
M.R % of Various Fibre

Fibre Name M.R%

Cotton 8.5%
Jute 13.75%
Silk 11%
Wool 16%
Polyester 0.4%
Nylon 4.0%
❑ Hydrophilic fibre: The fibre which has polarity
and attract the water molecule easily is called
hydrophilic fibre. Such as cotton, jute, silk, wool
etc. The fibre which has more M.R% is hydrophilic
in nature.

❑ Hydrophobic fibre: The fibre which is non polar

and does not attract the water molecule easily is
called hydrophobic fibre. Such as polyester, nylon
etc. The fibre which has lower M.R% is
hydrophobic in nature.
The water molecule and Textile Fiber

The comfort of textile materials depends very much

upon the moisture absorbency, hygroscopic or
hydrophilic nature of such material. The comfort
derived from fibres is critically dependent upon
the ability of the fibre to absorb moisture or the
ability of its polymer system to take up or attract
water molecules. Water plays an very important
role in textile and clothing, hence it is important
to become familiar with the water molecule and
its polarity.
The fibre which are more absorbent or more
hydrophilic are more comfortable in nature. Again
the moisture regain of fibre depends on the
hygroscopic nature of fibre. Which is more
hydrophilic has more moisture regain and thus
more comfortable. M.R of cotton and polyester
are 8.5% and 0.4% respectively. Thus cotton is
comfortable and polyester is uncomfortable. M.R
of jute fibre is 13.75% and it is uncomfortable in
nature. Jute fibre contains lignin for this reason it is
hard and thus less comfortable. So that jute is
different from other fibre.
Requirements of fibre forming polymer

Hydrophilic
Chemically resistant
Linear
Long
Capable of being oriented
Able to form high melting point polymer system
Difference between NF & MMF
Difference between Natural & Man Made Fibre
Natural Fibre Man Made Fibre

Collected from natural resources like Prepared by mixing of various

plant, animal or mine etc. chemical substance.
Get in form of staple fibre. Only silk Get in form of filament form. Staple
fibre is get in filament form. form can be made by cutting in staple
size.
Length of fibre is definite and it can Length of fibre is indefinite and it can
be given by nature. be controlled by man.
There are some short fibre among the There are no short fibre among the
staple fibre. fibre.
Natural fibre contains waste and Man made fibre is clean.
foreign matter.
Garments made by natural fibre is Garments made by man made fibre is
comfortable. less comfortable than natural fibre.
No need any kind of chemical mixing. Chemical mixing is needed for
preparing filament.
Natural Fibre Man Made Fibre

No need of any kind of heat and Pressure and temperature needed for
temperature because it can get from preparing filament from chemical
nature. mixing.
There is no need any kind of spinning Filament are collected from various
procedure . spinning procedure like dry spinning,
wet spinning and melt spinning.
Spinneret is not needed. Spinneret is needed.

Natural fibre has natural color when Color is given in filament if need.
growth.
There is natural crimp on the fibre. Crimp can be given after preparing of
filament.
Natural fibre are hydrophilic in nature. Man made fibre are hydrophobic.

Strength is less. Strength is more..

Natural Fibre Man Made Fibre

Uses of natural fibre is limited. Using area is many.

Demand of natural fibre is more for Demand of man made fibre is less for
garments. garments.
Environmental friendly fibre. Causes environmental pollution.

Higher cost. Lower cost.

Smell is like burning paper or burning Found chemical burning smell when
hair when combustion is done. combustion is done.
Dyeing is easy because dye affinity is Dyeing is hard because of less affinity
more. of dye.
Scouring and bleaching can be done. Scouring and bleaching is not done.
Natural Fibre Man Made Fibre

Singeing can be done. Singeing is not needed.

Size are apply for increasing strength Size is not needed for man made fibre
of warp yarn. yarn.
Desizing is necessary. Desizing is not necessary.

Durability is less. Durability is more.

Luster of fibre is less. Luster of fibre is more and it can be

controlled by man.
Ash is found after ignition or Ash is not found in many case because
combustion. the fibre are melt.
 Advantages and disadvantages of natural plant fiber
Advantages Disadvantages
Renewable, cheap and worldwide available Compounding difficulties due to inherent
resource Lower specific weight resulting in polar and hydrophilic nature of
comparable specific strength and stiffness lignocellulosic fibers and the non-polar
to glass reinforced composites Higher characteristics of most matrix materials
required volume fraction of natural plant Broad variance of mechanical properties
fibers in composite reduces content of less leading to less reliability compared to
sustainable polymer matrix High electrical standardized synthetic fibers with
resistance Good acoustic insulating predictable properties High moisture and
properties Safer handling and working chemical absorption can lead to swelling,
conditions compared to glass fibers Lower matrix/fiber decohesion and polymer
environmental impact due to low energy cracks Processing temperature is limited to
input for production Reduced fuel 200 °C because of fiber degeneration at
consumption when used as composite parts higher temperatures Less durable and rot
in automotive applications due to lower sensitive.
weight of the structural part Superior
processing and recycling properties due to
no abrasion to mixing and molding
equipment Carbon dioxide neutral disposal
can be composted, recycled, or combusted.