5' X 8' SINGLE AXLE

TRAILER: INTRODUCTION

A 5' x 8' (60" x 96") single axle trailer is a great size for all those big
jobs where weight is not an issue.

It has most of the advantages of a tandem trailer but with the con-
venience that a single axle trailer will give you.

Perfect for the serious home handyman, odd jobber, builder, or con-
tractor requiring a trailer that will haul with the best of them.

With or without brakes this trailer can be rated up to 3000 lb GTW

depending on your states braking requirements.

This design runs 14" tires, has 15" high sides with an internal, level
capacity to carry 50 cu ft, or more if heaped up.

Heavy duty fenders with fender braces, a strong rear light channel
to protect your lights, plenty of tie downs and a strong dependable
tongue which can be set up for hydraulic or electric brakes easily.
What more could you want ?

Specifications -
- Deck Size 5' x 8' (60" x 96" - 1530 x 2400mm)
- Single axle 14" wheels
- Fully welded steel chassis
- Steel panel sides/tailgates
- Hinging front and rear tailgate
- Full length tie rails
- 3/4" Plywood decking (options available - See "Trailer Decking" )
- 3000 lb GTM (can be upgraded if required)
- Tare Weight 616 lbs

NOTE -If are contemplating galvanising your trailer it pays to do a

bit of prep work on your cross members prior to welding. Please
check the Pre-Finishing page prior to starting.

CUTTING LIST &

COMPONENTS
Cutting List / Parts Detail
CHASSIS
Chassis Setup

Lay your chassis rails with the widest sides together and clamp.
Mark one end of the chassis rails with 'F' for front of trailer and use
this as your point for your measurements.

Divide the length of the chassis rails so that the cross members will
are at approximately 19"centers. Mark the chassis rails with the re-
quired measurement and a second mark 1" further on. This marks
the front and back position for the cross members. Using a square
mark across both the chassis rails and un-clamp.
On a flat surface or trestles lay the chassis rails parallel with each
other and lay the cross members and the light channel (see detail
shown below in finished position - flip upside down when setting up
the chassis as below) in the right positions and as square as rea-
sonably possible
Tack weld all the components together with one or two welds and
measure across the trailer frame diagonally for squareness. Both
measurements need to be taken from the same point of the chassis
as each other and the frame will be square once both measure-
ments are exactly the same.
Where one measurement is longer, divide the difference between
the two measurements and gently knock the longest corner of the
frame to match the shortest side plus the difference in measure-
ment – for example – if the shortest reading is 112 1/2 " and the
longest is 113", the difference between the two is 1/2".

Divide this in half- 1/4" - then knock the longest corner so your tape
reads 112 1/2" plus 1/4" (112 3/4") Re-measure, divide and keep
adjusting the frame until both measurements are exactly the same.

Once the frame is square, you will need to clamp or sandbag the
frame to prevent any movement while the frame is being welded.

Work your way around the frame welding all the components to-
gether. If you have welded the frame on the floor of the workshop,
lay a couple of good welds on all the components and lift the frame
up onto your trestles or stands, recheck the frame squareness and
finish welding of the frame.
SPRINGS
Divide the chassis in half and mark the chassis rails, then accu-
rately measure where you want the spring centers to be - ideally be-
tween 2" to 6" behind the center of the chassis and a good compro-
mise for general cartage is midway at 3" behind the center. Double
check your measurements.
Set up your springs in their front hangers and position the springs
and hangers on the chassis rails (hanger towards the front of the
trailer) and using a large square resting on the chassis rail at the
spring center mark, adjust the spring position until the spring bolt or
pin is in line with the spring center marked on your chassis.

Make sure that the outside spring edge is flush with the outside
edge of the chassis rail and once double checked, tack weld the
spring hanger to the chassis rail.

Once this is completed on both sides, position the slippers over the
spring tails allowing for clearance between the spring and the slip-
per for the spring to move in and out when loaded.

Again make sure the outside edge of the spring is flush with the out-
side edge of the chassis and tack weld the slipper in place.

Spring Packers
If the position of your hangers and slippers do not cover a cross
member you will need to cut a couple of packers to support the
overhang of these parts and weld into position.

Once all components are in position, remove the springs and fully
weld around the hanger, slipper and packers.
AXLE
Before measuring up our axle, fit the springs back onto the chassis.

Getting the required axle measurements to your axle manufacturer

as soon as possible will reduce the waiting time while your axle is
being fabricated. If you are wanting to build your own axle, check
out our axle building guide here.

Firstly we need to clamp the fender approximately around the area

where it is to go. If you are unable to clamp the fender or if the
clamps will not hold, tack weld the fender on.

Position your tire and rim inside the fender and line up the outside
of the tire flush with the rim of the fender, both vertically and hori-
zontally. If you are pushed for room within the fender, you can move
the tire out so that the start edge of the tire tread is flush with the
fender.
Once the tire is in position, measure from the inside hub mounting
surface of the rim, to the outside edge of the spring. If your springs
are set up correctly this will be the same measurement as the out-
side edge of the chassis. We'll call this measurement "A".

Measure your chassis width across the central part of your chassis
for measurement "B". The Hub to Hub face measurements will be
measurement "A" x2 (doubled) added to measurement "B".
Measuring between the spring center bolt centers will give you the
spring centers. Another way to get this is to measure your chassis
width "B" and subtract the width of one spring.

These measurements should be all that is needed to get the axle

manufacturer started. If you are going for a different style axle (ie,
stepped or dropped axle) then further measurements will be re-
quired.

TONGUE

The tongue shown is designed for a straight coupler and is able to

be fitted with a hydraulic surge coupler if required. This design al-
lows the tongue to be longer giving the trailer better road handling
and stability. See the Tongue design section for more details.

The tongue is made up of 4 components, the 2 main tongue sec-

tions, the tongue insert, and the tongue brace. It is possible to fit a
full length tongue insert so that it goes under the chassis (compos-
ite tongue).

This will increase the strength of the tongue, but will add additional
unnecessary weight.
Measure and mark your main tongue sections for both length and
cut angle. Double check your measurements and trim the end of the
section at 18 degrees.
Measure and mark out the tongue brace, again, double check your
measurements and trim each end to 72 degrees.

Find the center of the tongue brace (5 7/8") and mark. Do the same
with the butt end of the tongue insert (1 1/2") and sit the two pieces
together on a flat surface. Check the two pieces are square to each
other and tack weld. Check for square again and once you are sure
that everything is as it should be, run a couple of extra tack welds to
hold it all secure.

Lay the two tongue sections down the center of the trailer parallel
with the chassis rails with the long edge vertical and the angle cut
faces together. Take one section and slide the inside end around till
the inside edge is resting against the inside upright of the spring
hanger and tack weld in position.
Repeat with the second section and then take the protruding sec-
tions and work them gently and evenly until the inside angle cut
edges are approximately 3" apart. Clamp a couple of pieces of
straight steel or lumber under the tongue so you can rest the tongue
insert and brace section.

Fit the tongue insert between the main tongue sections (check that
it is fitted upside down!) and adjust until the brace is just touching
each side of the main tongue sections and that these are touching
the insert. Clamp or lightly tack weld the insert to the main tongue
sections.
At this point it is a good idea to double check that the tongue is cen-
tral and to do this take a couple of measurements from the same
point from the front of the tongue main section diagonally back to a
point on the chassis in a couple of positions and check that both
measurements from each side match.

Adjust the position of the main tongue sections until they have
equal measurements and clamp into position.

Do the same thing with the tongue insert. Measure from each side
of the end of the insert back to the chassis and adjust until both
measurements match.

At this point you can weld up the tongue sections, brace and insert
in all the down hand and vertical positions. Do not under any cir-
cumstances weld across the horizontal faces on the tongue where it
intersects the cross members as shown below.
At this point you can weld up the tongue in all the down hand and
vertical positions. Do not under any circumstances weld across the
horizontal faces on the tongue where it intersects the cross mem-
bers as shown below.

Side Fabrication
The side profile is designed to give good strength to the trailer while
keeping the weight to a minimum, lighter panel may be used but
there may be issues with buckling of the panel when welded.
Using the chassis as a bench, set up the end uprights flush with the
ends of the chassis and fit the top tie rail between them.

Tack weld bits together. Place a couple of bits of scrap steel or

wood and clamp flush under the ends of the chassis to support the
uprights while tacking in place. Make sure uprights are flush with
the ends of the chassis and level with the underside of the chassis
rails.

Check uprights are square with the chassis and clamp into position.
Fit panel into frame and adjust so that the panel is flush with the in-
side of the uprights and sitting on the chassis rail. Clamp the panel
down onto the chassis rail and tack weld onto the uprights.

Unclamp and lay the frame and panel onto the chassis, flip over so
that the side with the panel flush with the uprights is facing up,
clamp to the chassis and fully weld where the panel and the end up-
rights meet. It is only necessary to weld the inside face with a nice
light weld, to prevent blow through and buckling of the metal, but
enough to join the two pieces together.

Clamp the side back into position on the chassis and clamp fully
along the inside lip of the panel/chassis rail.

FENDERS
To find the correct position of the fender, fit the axle to the springs
loosely, dry assemble the bearings and hubs and fit the wheels to
the hubs.

Place an off-cut of timber or steel around 1 1/2" thick on top of the

tire and lower the fender onto this. Stand back and check the clear-
ance around the front and rear. The fender can be pulled open if
needed to allow for a better fit. Whatever measurement you pulled
the fender out to, make sure that the other fender matches.

The fender needs to have roughly equal clearance at the front, top
and rear, but pays to give a little extra at the top and rear to com-
pensate for spring movement.

A good rule of thumb is 1 1/4" clearance at the front, 1 1/2"at the top
and around 2" at the rear, or of similar ratios.

Once the fender is in the correct position, tack weld the fender in
position (another set of hands is recommended. Make sure that the
fender is in full contact with the panel side and then stand back and
make sure that the fender is in the correct position.

If the fender doesn't look quite right, now is the time to adjust it.
Mark out 2" from both front and rear of fender at the base of the
chassis rail, and using a large square, mark up the panel to the top
lip, measure 1 1/4" away from the guard and mark on the lip.

Using a grinder with a cutting blade, notch out the top lip back to the
main panel to fit the center uprights.

Position uprights square with the chassis rail and tack weld into po-
sition.

FENDER BRACES
Fender braces provide a couple of necessary functions, firstly to
give the fender strength and support especially as the fenders are
normally the first things to get knocked around. Secondly they func-
tion as a step onto and into the trailer. Be wary of using a piece of
rod or pipe to brace the fender, slip on this, when you are climbing
into the trailer, you are likely to break your leg if you fall between
the brace and the trailer.
When fabricating the braces, ensure you make 2 pieces as per the
drawing and 2 pieces with the lip folded the opposite direction. The
drainage cut out is to help prevent debris and water settling causing
corrosion.

When fitting, make sure the brace is square with the side and flush
with the underside of the chassis rail. This is another job where a
spare pair of hands is useful. An out of square brace is very notice-
able so take care getting it right.
Once everything is tack welded in position and looking right, stitch
weld along the outside of the trailer along where the panel and
chassis rail meet. A 2" stitch weld with a 4" gap is perfect. It is not
necessary to weld the panel on the inside of the trailer.
Stitch weld both sides of the center uprights, around the topside of
the fenders and braces and fully weld all visible joins around the top
portion of the center uprights.

TIE HOOKS

You can fit as many tie hooks to your trailer as you like and some
say the more the merrier. Practically you only require four to six tie
hooks on each side, and as long as they are strong and can accom-
modate good sized rope or tie down hooks, there is little else you
need.

Tie hooks can be made by rolling a piece of rod around a former in

a vice and cutting to size. The easiest tie hooks are made from
chopping off the end of chain links.

To prevent your rope chaffing, make sure all surfaces and edges of
the tie hooks are smooth.

Weld the tie hooks with good strong welds to the chassis rail and
the center uprights.
Previous

TAILGATES
Tailgate Fabrication
Setting up the tailgates is similar to the sides but care needs when
welding to prevent the tailgates from twisting. Use the tongue as a
clamping table if you have no other suitable surface.
Position the angle uprights at either end of the tie rail as per the
drawing, square the uprights to the tie rail and tack weld.

Mark the center of the panel on the top lip and drill a hole to suit the
rod center support. Mark the bottom lip to help line the rod up when
in position.

Fit the panel with the lips facing upwards, between the uprights and
flush at the bottom. Tack weld panel to the uprights.

Slide in the rod center support, line up with the bottom mark and
tack weld into position.
Clamp a piece of flat bar across the top of the tailgate lip and place
a hinge pipe underneath. This will ensure the hinge pipe is flush
with the top of the lip. Adjust the hinge pipe until it is flush with the
outside edge of the angle upright and tack into position. Repeat with
the other outer hinge pipe and centralize the center hinge pipe and
tack into position.

Fully weld the hinge pipes and the upper and lower lips as shown

Stitch weld the center rod and angle uprights to the panel as shown
below.
TAILGATE FITTING
HANGING THE TAILGATES

Position the tailgate onto the trailer so that the top of the tailgate is
flush with the top of the trailer sides. Clamp into position and slowly
adjust the tailgate so that the difference in width between the tail-
gate and the uprights is even.

Slide the gudgeons into the hinge pipes until there is a little resis-
tance. Do not force the gudgeon into the pipe as this may cause the
tailgate to jam when operating.

Level the gudgeon to the tailgate and tack weld onto the light chan-
nel/front cross member.
Once all gudgeons have been tack welded, unclamp the tailgate
and check its operation.

The tailgate should operate smoothly up and down and if it jams up,
find the culprit hinge/gudgeon and adjust as needed.
Once the tailgate is functioning correctly, remove the tailgate
and fully weld the gudgeons in place. It does pay to mark each tail-
gate with a spot of weld so there is no confusion when fitting the
tailgates at a later date, especially if the trailer is to be galvanized.

Repeat the process with the other tailgate.

We have go back to the end uprights on the sides to fit the Lug
tube. Measure down 4 1/2" from the top of the upright and mark on
all four corners.
Place the lug tube against the side of the upright with the top of the
tube level with the line. Tack weld the tube position and check it for
square and fully weld.

Carry on around the trailer until all four corners are complete.

Raise and clamp the tailgate in the up position and place the latch
plate centrally covering the lug pipe. Use a marker through the lug
pipe and mark the center for drilling.

Remove latch plate and drill oversize to suit your drop lock - 3/4" is
a standard size.
Fit the drop lock to the lug pipe, place the drilled latch plate over the
drop lock and latch in position. Centralize the latch plate then tack
weld to the tailgate. Remove the tailgate once both latch plates are
tacked in place and fully weld.
PRE-FINISHING
GALVANIZING AND PAINTING
PREPARATION
Depending on the type of finish you are planning for your trailer,
there are a couple of things that need to be done prior to either. If
you are planning on galvanizing your trailer, please read this first
- Galvanizing and painting here - Painting

If you are painting your trailer, you will need to drill drain holes in
the tailgates as shown below to allow rain water to drain from the
tailgate.

With either option, go over the trailer with a hand grinder with a flap-
per disc attached and clean any burrs, sharp edges, left over weld-
ing slag and spatter. Remove any paint, crayon or grease that may
be on the trailer with an alcohol or solvent based cleaner.

Use a square or rat tail file to remove any burrs from inside the box
section uprights, tongue and chassis rails, including the tailgates.
Galvanizing drain holes are extremely important to ensure that your
trailer is fully coated with galvanizing, inside and out, and to prevent
your trailer deforming when in the galvanizing bath.

The cross members ideally should have been pre-drilled prior to the
chassis being welded, but if not now is the time to do this. Two
holes at least 5/16" in diameter (3/8" holes are ideal for the cable
side of the trailer to allow the cable to pass through) must be drilled
on one side of the vertical face of the cross members at each end.
One hole needs to be drilled on the underside of the cross member
at each end.
Wherever a piece of hollow section (SHS or RHS) is blocked, it re-
quires drilling. The tie rails along the sides require a hole drilled
through both sides at the junction with the end uprights.

The side panel requires holes drilled on the top where it meets the
end and center uprights (see pictures below)
Drill holes in the light channel as shown above to prevent galvaniz-
ing from building up around this area.

Holes also need to be drilled in the top of the center uprights, just
under the tie rail. At the bottom of the center uprights, there needs
to be a partial opening at least the size of a 5/16" diameter hole or
bigger. If not drill the underside of the fender brace gusset into the
upright opening.
Lastly the deck joiner sections need to be drilled with two holes on
the underside and one hole on the side passing all the way through.
This needs to be done on both ends of each section.

Some galvanizers require the fender to be drilled in a couple of

places where it meets the panel - Check with them prior to drilling
even more holes in your trailer.
 Tongue Drilling
Determine where you require your safety connectors to be bolted to
the tongue and drill holes to suit your mounting bolts. A good posi-
tion is approximately 2" back from the front of the tongue and at
least 1/2 a chain link length up from the underside. If you are galva-
nizing, drill the hole oversize by about 3/64" to allow for galvanizing
build up.

You will need to have your light cable and rubber grommet to mea-
sure up for the light cable exit hole on top of the tongue. Position
this behind the coupler and centrally on the top of the tongue. Again
drill the hole slightly oversize to allow for the galvanizing build up.

You can pre-drill for your lights and license plate if you have these
to hand. Most new lights will come with a drilling template or guide.

LIGHTS
Note - Before doing any cable fitting, it is advisable that the trailer is
fully prepared and painted or galvanized and at the bare minimum,
has a primer coat applied.

Running the light cable

From the front of the trailer, slide a semi-rigid section of mild steel
"pull" wire down the tongue until it comes out at the spring end.
Tape the trailer 4 core cable (6 or 7 core if you are fitting electric
brakes) to the end of the "pull" wire and pull from the spring hanger
end until the cable comes through.

Gently pull the cable through until you have a good length that will
reach along the length of the trailer and across the rear light chan-
nel. Allow another foot or so extra cable to play with.
Allow another 2 foot extra at the coupling end of the tongue for
wiring into your plug.

Drill through any cross members not already drilled to allow the ca-
ble to be threaded through. Thread the cable from the spring
hanger end of the tongue, through the conduits and cross members
until you reach the position of your first light. Add on an extra 6" of
cable and cut.

Thread the left over cable through the conduits along the light chan-
nel to the second light.

Fitting Lights
Make sure that your license plate light is in the correct position and
that the light will shine on the plate. Keep your Turn/Brake lights as
wide as possible in the light channel, but do not place lights directly
behind the rod bracing. Find the center of the light light channel for
mounting the 3 Marker Lights.
Mark out your light position on the light channel and drill the mount-
ing and cable holes as per your lights instructions or template.
It is normal to run the earth cable directly to the trailer chassis
(ground) but I prefer to run an earth to each light to ensure the best
grounding.
There are a couple of ways of joining the wire together behind the
left hand light. Using a strip connector inside a sealed junction box
is one of the best ways of keeping the join secure and weather tight
and also gives the option of easily changing lights should they get
damaged, etc.

Other options include soldering the wires together and sealing with
insulation tape and a heat shrink tube or using crimp connectors
and covering again with heat shrink tube. These options take less
time to do than the first option, but will cause a bit of a headache
when maintenance needs to be done at a later date.
If you go down the junction box route, secure the box to the chassis
rail directly behind the light channel.

SIDE CLEARANCE LIGHTS

For side clearance lights, an additional two lengths of 2 core cable

need to be run from the junction box, up through the conduit to the
spring hanger. Take one cable under the chassis rail and behind
the front of the fender. "P" clip (see photo) the cable in appropriately
hidden positions to prevent the cable from being snagged by either
the tire or debris flung up from the road. For the other cable you
need to "P" clip one cable along the cross member to the right hand
spring hanger and again take under the chassis rail up to the light
position. Drill the appropriate holes for mounting the light and for the
cable to pass through the fender.

Crimp connectors are the most convenient method for joining the
wires to sealed lights with attached wiring.
PLUG
Pass the plug end cable through the cable hole drilled in the top or
side of the tongue and slide a suitable sized rubber grommet over
the cable to prevent any chafing of the cable where it passes
through the tongue.

Trim the length of cable so that the cable can move with the trailer
behind the tow vehicle without being stretched or kinked, but not too
long that it will dangle too close to the ground.

Slide any plug sleeve or nut - that came with the plug - over the ca-
ble, then strip each end of the

plug wires leaving approximately 3/8" bare wire, fold the bare cable
in half and enter them into the plug connector in the correct se-
quence as per the chart above. Tighten the screws snugly but do
not over-tighten. Screw the cable clamp down to prevent the cable
from pulling out and fit any sleeves, nuts or covers that came with
the plug.

If possible, check all your lights by hooking the trailer plug up to

your tow vehicle. If you don't have a mate to help you check your
brake lights, grab a mirror and position it behind the trailer where
you can see it from the tow vehicle
AXLE FITTING
AXLE FITTING
Now is a good time to fit the springs and axle to the trailer as this is
the last time you will be able to work on your trailer running gear
without having to get on your back.

Hub Fitting
Prepare a very clean surface and hand pack your bearings with
grease, take your time, the more you can work the grease into the
bearings the better.

Over a clean axle, slide the seal retaining washer and seal onto the
axle shoulder. Fit the larger inner back end bearing into the hub and
tap on the seal wear ring. Grab a good handful of grease and apply
it to the inside of the hub and slide the hub over the axle until the
back bearing rests against the axle shoulder and seal.

Check that the seal is fitted into the hub and slide the smaller front
end outer bearing into the hub.
Fit the washer and castle nut and tighten the nut up until resistance
is felt. Give the nut a quick nip and then back off approximately 1/4
of a turn or until the slot in the castle nut lines up with the hole in the
axle.

Check that the hub rotates freely and fit the split pin through the
castle nut and axle and twist to lock in place.

Tap on the dust cap and repeat for the other hub.

Axle
Lay the axle on the ground under your trailer with the spring holes
facing upwards. Slide the "U" bolts under the axle in around the po-
sition where the springs will sit.

Position the springs over the axle so that the spring center bolt fits
into the holes in the axle.

Fit the spring plate and "U" bolts together and lightly tighten up.

Twist and lift the axle to inset the tail end of the springs into the slip-
pers and then lift the springs so they are in the spring hangers. Bolt
the springs into position and do up the lock nuts. Loosen the "U"
bolts and give the axle a bit of a wiggle to make sure everything is
aligned correctly. Tighten everything up securely. When tightening
the "U" bolt nuts, it pays to tighten each nut a little at a time, working
your way around the four nuts.

DECK
The following information is for fitting plywood decking. If you want
to use a different material, click on Trailer Decking for more infor-
mation.

Plywood decking is a versatile and hard wearing decking material. It

is relatively cheap and easy to replace if it gets damaged. Plywood
normally has two graded faces, with one face being better than the
other.

For trailer purposes a "AC" or "BC" grade of plywood is more than

suitable. Ensure that the plywood is either a marine or exterior
grade to prevent de-lamination of the ply. It does pay to handpick
your plywood from the merchant if possible, as there may be a few
imperfections that pass the "B" grade but would look un-sightly on
your trailer.

Before positioning your plywood on the trailer, mark the positions of

your cross member centers along the side of the trailer above the
level of where the plywood will sit.
Lay your the main sheet of plywood against the side furthest from
the deck joiner (if fitted), adjust the sheet so that it is level with the
front crossmember and rear light channel. Clamp sheet into posi-
tion.

Measure the gap in the deck for the remaining sheet (double check
measurements at both ends and in the center of the trailer) and cut
the second sheet to fit.

Lay this in position with the mill edge (the uncut edge) against the
first sheet of plywood and clamp into position.

With a string line or a straight edge, mark the sheet across the
width from the marks on the side panels.
Mark out evenly across the lines spacing the hole centers at ap-
proximately 8" apart both along the cross member marks and down
the outer edges and the join.

Fastenings
There are a couple of options for fastening your deck to your chas-
sis. Rivets have been used for many years, but after a couple of
years of carting loads around, rivets tend to fail and pop out. By far
the best option is self tapping countersunk screws and if you have a
good powerful electric hand drill, this job will not take long. For a
3/4" deck thickness, 8G x 1 1/4" screws are ideal. A 1/8" hole needs
to be pre drilled and then the screws can be driven in by either hand
or with the electric drill and screw attachment.

It pays to start at one end of the trailer and work your way down to
the other end to prevent any buckling of the deck.

As with all timber, the plywood deck will swell and shrink depending
on how wet or dry the environment is, and you may find over time,
the occasional screw breaking from this action on the deck. If this
does happen, increase the size of the replacement screw to a 10G
x 1 1/4".
Once the deck is screwed down, give the deck a good going over
with an orbital sander to take off any high spots. For a really good
look, roller some exterior oil based stain over the deck.

FINISHING
Fit your chosen coupler to the trailer using 3/8" UNF bolts and lock
nuts or larger if required.

Bolts should only protrude through one side wall of the tongue sec-
tion. Full width thru bolts should not be used and they may com-
press the box section and the coupler will not be securely fixed. It
may be a bit of a squeeze getting the nuts from within the tongue
section and a bit of grease on your spanner may help hold the nut
in place while you turn the bolt.

Check that the coupler is centrally aligned before tightening up se-

curely.

Fit the chain and hooks to the tongue using a chain washer and
high tensile bolt.

Fit a plug holder if required on the tongue to keep the plug out of
harms way while the trailer is in storage.
Fit the drop locks to the front and rear trailer uprights and bolt up
securely and fit the tailgates.

Double check your spring hanger bolts and "U" bolts on the axle
that they are secure and tight and the wheels to the trailer.

Hand tighten the stud nuts to help align the rim on the hub and
tighten the nuts in sequence as below. Ideally use a torque wrench
to ensure that the nuts are tightened adequately.

Torque Settings for wheel nuts are

7/16" UNF 110Nm or 80 Ftlbs

1/2" UNF 125Nm or 90 Ftlbs

Check with your local DMV for details on the paperwork required to
legally get your trailer on the road.
After the trailers first decent trip or within the first 500 miles, recheck
all coupler, spring and axle bolts for tightness. Recheck the wheel
stud nut torque settings.