Alfaholics 4/6 Pot Brake Kit Fitting Guide

The Alfaholics 4 pot and 6 pot brake kits follow the same basic design with small detail differences so
fitting is identical for both versions. The kit includes-

2x discs

2x hub adaptors

2x calipers

2x caliper brackets

1 x bolt pack inc. pipe fittings-see options below

You will also need-

1 set brake pads

Optional addition- banjo hoses, if you have ordered these then the pipe fittings are deleted as you
will not need them

Step 1.

Remove the front brake pads then the caliper. Drain the fluid out of the pipes, you’ll need to bleed
the system anyway so now is the time to refill it with nice new fluid!
Step 2.

Remove the dust cover from the front hub, then the split pin and the nut securing the hub to the
bearing, note that the left hand hub has a left hand thread! Remove the disc and hub.

Step 3.

Undo the two screws attaching the disc to the hub, keep these as you will need them later. Now
separate the disc from the hub, once you have done this you can remove the wheel studs either
using a press or a soft faced hammer. They should just press/knock out.

Step 4.

Clean up the wheel hub, pay special attention to the rear hub face as the new disc mounts against
this and any dirt here will cause the disc to run out of true. You may a want to give the hub a coat of
new paint while you’re doing this, cleaning out the inside and bearings is a good idea as is replacing
the bearing itself depending on how old it all is too. At the same time, clean up the suspension
upright around the caliper mount, make sure that the face on where the caliper mounts is nice and
clean.

Step 5.

Mount the disc onto the “bell” using the small nuts and bolts. Note the orientation of the bell and
disc and the direction of the grooves in the disc, this is the left side-
Step 6.

Press the wheel studs into the reverse of the new disc mounting bell, tap them home with a hammer
and punch. Don’t worry too much about seating them properly, just make sure they’re tight and
seated at the right angle, they’ll pull up when you tighten the wheel for the first time.

Now attach the hub to the disc and re-fit the two small screws.

This is the order that it all fits together in-

Now refit the hub to the suspension upright (don’t forget to grease the bearing!) and tighten the nut
to give the correct bearing preload and replace the split pin and cap.

Step 8.

Fit the brake caliper mounting bracket onto the upright, note that the face with the engraving on fits
towards the disc like this-
So that when the caliper is assembled onto the bracket it looks like this-

Don’t tighten it fully yet, the kit includes two sets of washers, thick and thin, these are for spacing
the caliper in and out so that it centres on the disc so you may need to shift it about once it’s all in.
Now bolt the caliper to the bracket, remember the bleed screws go on the TOP so if they’re on the
bottom you’ve got the right side on the left and vice versa. Swap them over!
Measure the gap between the disc and the edges of the clearance slots in the caliper and fit washers
as required so that the disc is centred. It doesn’t need to be exact but so long as you can fit the pads
without them binding you’ll be ok. Once you have everything lined up right then apply some
threadlock to the bolts and refit them and tighten them up.

Step 9.

Now remove the pad retaining pins, push in the pads and refit the pins. Check that the pads can
move freely in the calipers. Unfortunately brake pads sometimes aren’t as accurately made as the
caliper so you may need to remove some material from the pad to make sure they move freely and
don’t jam in the caliper. Don’t go too far though or they’ll rattle!

Step 10.

Now it’s time for the brake pipes!

If you have bought the banjo hoses or bought the brakes as part of the GTA-R brake package then
the next part is easy. The banjo end of the pipe fits into the caliper like this-

Note the copper washer each side!

The other end connects to the flexi hose at the bracket on the upright.
Correct pipe run for banjo hose and brake flexi-

If you didn’t get the banjo hoses, then you’ll need to make up a replacement hard line using a length
of Kunifer pipe. You can re-use the fitting at the bracket end, the kit includes new fittings for the
caliper end. Make up the new line so that it follows the route of the flexi line above.

This is the order that the fittings should be assembled in-

Step 11.

Bleeding the brakes

This is relatively easy, just like normal brakes. We find that bleeding them from the inside screw
(nearest the centre of the car) first works best.

Step 12.

Bedding the brake pads in.

Ferodo DS2500 and DS3000 pads come with detailed bedding in instructions and it’s worth following
these as they do improve the braking efficiency. They also go a long way towards avoiding brake
squeal. They do involve making some hard stops from quite high speeds which is immense fun but
make sure you do this well away from other motorists and of course, local Law Enforcement…

Torque settings

Caliper mounting bracket to upright (M12 Bolt) 60 ft/lb

Caliper to mounting bracket (M10 bolt) 40ft/lb

Disc to bell (M6 bolt) No torque setting for these, just make them as tights as you can with an Allen
key
That’s all there is to it! If you would prefer to have this guide as a Word document or you need any
help at all with the brake kit, please don’t hesitate to contact us either by phone or email to
[email protected]