COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURAL, CONSUMER AND ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCES

Making Perfect Garment Hems

Revised by Wendy Hamilton1

aces.nmsu.edu/pubs • Cooperative Extension Service • Guide C-314

The College of

Agricultural,

Consumer and

Environmental

© Jelena Okjan | Dreamstime.com

Sciences is an

engine for economic

and community

development in New
MARKING THE HEMLINE
Mexico, improving
There are many ways to hem a garment. When choosing a hem style,
ask: Will the hem let the garment hang as gracefully as designed? Will
the lives of New it hang evenly in a smooth line above the floor? Will the hem be in-
conspicuous, unless the stitching is intended to be decorative? Is the
Mexicans through hem even and smooth without lumps or excess fullness? If you can’t
answer “yes” to these questions, consider another method of hemming.
academic, research, A new garment must be fitted and finished before marking the
hemline. Let the garment hang for 24 hours on a cushioned hanger
and Extension before marking the hem, especially if a large part of the garment is on
the bias. If it is not a new garment, remove the old hem and press out
programs. the crease. If the garment will be shortened, there should be no prob-
lem. However, if the garment will be lengthened, make sure the origi-
nal hem crease is not discolored or permanently pressed in. Paint on
undiluted white vinegar with a narrow brush or cotton swab to help
get an old crease out of permanent press fabrics.
The best way to mark a hem level from the floor is to have someone
else mark the hemline while you are wearing the garment. Wear the
same foundation garments and shoes you will wear with the garment. If
the garment will be worn with a belt, wear the belt while marking the
hem. Stand straight, arms down, and weight distributed on both feet. It
New Mexico State University may help to stand on a table so the hem is near eye level for the helper.
aces.nmsu.edu
1
Extension Grants and Contracts Development Specialist, College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University.
 PREPARING THE HEM
Place the garment on the ironing board, wrong side
of the garment facing you.
If the garment will be shortened, you may
need to reduce the bulk of the seam allowances
within the hem by trimming them slightly nar-
rower. Do not trim so narrow that the hem can’t
be let down if needed. Fold up the hem on the
marked line, placing pins at right angles to the
edge every 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm). Baste
close to the fold.
Try on the garment to check that the length is
correct and that the hemline is level all around.
Clip the basting, repin, and adjust as necessary.

DETERMINING THE DEPTH OF THE HEM

Determine the correct depth for the hem based
on the type of garment, flare of the hem edge, and
weight of the fabric. Generally, skirts, dresses, and
coats have wider hems (2 to 3 inches or 5 to 7.5 cm)
than jackets, pants, and blouses (1 to 2 inches or 2.5
to 5 cm). Straighter edges have deeper hems (2 to
3 inches or 5 to 7.5 cm) than flared or circular edges
(1/2 to 1 inch or 1.3 to 2.5 cm). Depending on the
straightness or flare of the edge, sheer fabrics should
have extremely wide hems or extremely narrow
rolled hems. Very bulky fabrics may be faced with a
less bulky material.
Make the hem an even depth all around by
measuring with a seam gauge or ruler and mark-
ing with chalk, a soap sliver, or pins. Trim the
excess so that the hem is an even depth all around.
Be sure to open the hem so you don’t accidently
cut the garment.
Ease any fullness, especially in curved hems, by
stitching 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the cut edge using
a machine stitch slightly longer than normal stitch-
ing for that fabric. Draw up the fullness by pulling
the bobbin thread with a pin where needed. Be
careful not to draw up the fullness so much that it
pulls the hem tighter than the corresponding gar-
ment area. Place a piece of heavy paper between
the hem and garment fabric to prevent an imprint,
then press, shrinking out the ease in wool and
other flexible fabrics. On non-flexible fabrics, press
the ease as flat as possible. It is acceptable to have
ripples caused by the fullness, but tucks or lap-overs
should be avoided. Do not press the fold if you de-
sire an unpressed hem edge.

Guide C-314 • Page 2

FINISHING THE HEM EDGE
The method of finishing the hem edge depends on the
type of fabric in your garment, the type of garment be-
ing constructed, the kind of wear and care you expect
the garment to receive, and your skills and preferences.
Select a hem finish that will not change the appearance
of the garment unless the hem is decorative. The finish
should not add weight or bulk that will cause an imprint
through to the right side. Also, the hem finish should
prevent ravelling and maintain the same stretchability as
the garment. A finish may give a more professional look,
especially in unlined jackets and wraparound skirts.

Stitched and pinked. This finish is suitable for

knits and fabrics that do not ravel or garments that
do not need durability. Machine stitch 1/4 inch
(6 mm) from the edge with regular-sized stitching
or ease-sized stitching. Trim with pinking shears,
being careful to avoid cutting the stitches.

Turned and stitched (also called clean finished).

This is appropriate for lightweight fabrics and du-
rable, washable medium-weight fabrics. Curves, such
as a shirt tail, may need to be stay-stitched first. Turn
1/4 inch (6 mm) of the raw edge to the underside
and press. Topstitch 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the fold.

Overcast. This is used for delicate, lightweight

fabrics and ravelly, medium- and heavyweight fab-
rics. Stabilize the edge with a regular stitch or ease
stitching 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the edge. Hand
overcast, spacing stitches evenly, using the machine
stitching as a guide.

Zigzagged. This may be used for most fabrics

that ravel. The multiple stitch zigzag is preferred for
knits, such as sweater knits that require stretch. Lo-
cate the zigzag stitching line 1/4 inch (6 mm) from
the edge. Adjust the zigzag from medium-width
and medium-length stitches as needed for your fab-
ric, taking care not to stretch the edge or add bulk.
It may be necessary to add ease stitching just below
the zigzag. Trim excess fabric to the zigzag stitching.

Guide C-314 • Page 3

 Seam binding and stretch lace. The woven edge
seam binding is used for straight edge hems that
ravel, while the stretch lace is used for curved hems
and fabrics requiring stretch. Place seam bind-
ing or lace on the right side of the hem, lapping it
1/4 inch (6 mm) over the edge, including the ease
stitching if it was used. Straight stitch seam binding
or zigzag stitch lace close to the lower edge. Be care-
ful not to stretch the lace during application to the
hem edge. It should be able to stretch after it is
in place.

Bias tape. This finish is especially good for flared

and circular skirts because it adjusts to curves and
has some “give.” Commercial 1/2 inch (1.3 cm)
bias tape is available in a variety of colors, or you
can make your own bias tape from underlining-
type fabric. Open one fold of the tape, placing the
fold line just below the ease stitching on the right
side of the hem. Fold and overlap at the ends of the
bias tape. Machine stitch on the fold line. Press the
tape up so the stitching is hidden and the folded
edge is ready for hand sewing.

Hong Kong finish. The Hong Kong finish uses

a bias strip and is suitable for seam edges as well as
hem edges on bulky or heavy fabrics. It is also suit-
able for velvet and satin using a lightweight net or
tulle for the binding.

Cut a 1 inch (2.5 cm) bias strip of underlining

fabric or other lightweight woven fabric the length
of the hem. Stitch to the hem, 1/8 inch (3 mm)
from the edge. Fold the bias to the inside, over the
raw edge of the hem, and press. From the right
side, machine stitch next to the fold formed by the
first row of stitching. The edge is now ready to be
secured by hand sewing.

Guide C-314 • Page 4

FACED HEMS SECURING THE HEM
A facing is used for a hem when the hem allowance is not The last step, other than pressing, is securing the
wide enough to turn up, when the fabric is too bulky to hem to the garment either by hand stitching,
turn up, when the skirt is circular in style, or when the machine stitching, or fusing. Hand stitching is
hem has an unusual shape. The shaped facing is cut from the time-honored and traditional way, and is still
a pattern or from a tracing of the hemline. Bias strips of the best for many hems. Machine-stitched hems
underlining, or lining fabric 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) are appropriate for household items, children’s
wide, or purchased bias hem facing may be used to face clothing, as a decorative touch on some garments,
narrow hems and circular hems. Horsehair braid is used and where the hem will not be seen, such as on
as a facing for full skirts in sheer fabrics. blouses, shirts, and linings. Fusible web can be
Prepare the hem edge by marking the hemline and used in place of hand or machine stitching for
trimming the hem allowance to 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). If the many hems, and it is the quickest way to secure a
hem is quite curved, the bias strip, or bias hem facing, hem. Fusible webs are an inconspicuous method
should be shaped by steam pressing into a slight curve suitable for some soft knits.
that follows the curve of the hem. When bias strips of Hand stitching. There are two ways of hemming
underlining or lining are used, they should be joined to by hand—inside hemming, also called catch stitch-
give the length needed, and 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the strip ing, and flat hemming, also called plain stitching.
should be pressed under along the inner curved edge. For inside hemming, the garment is folded back
Beginning at a seam, place right side of facing to right and stitches are taken between the garment and
side of garment, raw edges even. Pin in place. On ready- hem, leaving the very top edge of the hem free. In
made facing, open out the fold. Turn the end back for a flat hemming, the edge of the hem is sewn flat to
neat finish where the facing begins and ends. Stitch on the garment. Inside hemming gives a more profes-
the crease or 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the edge. Overlap the sional appearance and is generally preferred because
ends. Turn the facing to inside on the marked hemline. there is less chance of the hem imprinting a ridge
Press on the hemline, pressing the facing upward. on the outside. Whether you use inside hemming
or flat hemming will depend on your fabric’s ten-
dency to unravel and the hem finish you’ve used
on the edge. Generally, if your fabric is suitable for
stitched and pinked, overcast, or zigzagged finish,
inside hemming can be used. If your hem is turned
and stitched or finished with seam binding or lace,
flat hemming is more suitable.
The basic hand stitches used for hemming in-
clude the slanted-hemming stitch, the vertical-hem-
ming stitch, the blind stitch, and the catch stitch.
The blind stitch is used for inside hemming, the
slanted- and vertical-hemming stitches for flat hem-
ming, while the catch stitch may be used for either
inside or flat hemming.
For either type of hemming, always start at a
seam with the thread knot hidden inside the hem.
Take tiny stitches in the garment, picking up only
one thread or a part of a heavy thread. Stitches
should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) apart. Never pull
thread tight. It is a good idea to lock hemming
stitches every 12 inches (30 cm) or so by making a
couple of stitches on top of each other and at right
angles to each other on the hem side. Finish off the
same way. Do not cut the thread off too close to
the fabric.

Guide C-314 • Page 5

 Blind stitch hemming is inconspicuous from
both the right side and the hem side of a garment.
First, finish the raw edge of the hem or facing
without folding it. Then, 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3 to
6 mm) from the edge, alternate small, horizontal
stitches in between the garment and the hem,
leaving about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6 mm to 1.3 cm)
between stitches. Do not pull the stitches tightly.
Stitches or indentations should not be visible from
the right side. This stitch allows pressing with-
out forcing the hem edge to cause a ridge visible
from the right side. The blind stitch is used with a
nonstretchy, nonravelling fabric. This hem is also
called a tailor’s hem.

The slanted-hemming stitch is used when the

hem is finished with a seam binding or stretch
lace. Take a one- or two-yarn stitch in the gar-
ment, then bring the needle through the edge of
the seam binding. The stitches pass over the seam
binding edge at a slant. The stitch should be in-
conspicuous from the right side and not drawn or
pulled too tightly. This is a quick but less durable
method of hemming.

The vertical-hemming stitch is also used when

the hem is finished with a seam binding or stretch
lace. It is done like the slanted-hemming stitch
except that the stitches pass over the seam binding
vertically. This stitch is more durable and stable
than the slanted-hemming stitch.

The catch stitch may be used like the blind

stitch as an inside hemming stitch for nonravel-
ling stretch fabrics, or it may be used over the
edge as a flat hemming stitch. The stitch itself
is taken in the opposite direction to the line of
needle movement. Working in a left to right di-
rection, in between or over the edge of the hem
and the garment, 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3 to 6 mm)
from the hem edge, take a small stitch in the hem.
Then move diagonally to the right to take the next
stitch in the garment. Alternate stitching in this
zigzag fashion. Keep the stitches loose to retain
flexibility of the hem edge.

Guide C-314 • Page 6

 Machine stitching. Although hand-sewn
hems were long considered the only really ac-
ceptable hems, there are certain instances where
a machine-sewn hem is actually preferable. Spe-
cific hems for some types of garments are sug-
gested, but since each sewing machine on the
market is different, check your owner’s manual
for directions for each stitch.
Blind hemming by machine is a durable,
fairly inconspicuous method especially suited
to children’s clothing, sportswear in sturdy fab-
rics, and home decorating. Depending on your
machine, the blind hemming stitch may be ei-
ther a straight stitch or a stretch stitch. Check
your sewing machine manual for the proper
settings. Practice the stitch on a sample so you
know where the straight stitches go and where
the “bite” is taken. Use as narrow a bite as pos-
sible so that a minimum of thread shows on the
right side.
A narrow, rolled, machine-stitched hem is
suitable where the hem will not be visible, such
as on linings, tuck-in blouses, and shirts. After
marking the hem, trim the hem allowance to
1/2 inch (1.3 cm). Stay-stitch edges 1/4 inch
(6 mm) from edge. Press a 1/4 inch (6 mm)
fold, then fold again 1/4 inch (6 mm) and
press. Machine stitch along the hem edge. Some
machines have an attachment for making the
narrow rolled hem. Consult your sewing ma-
chine manual and practice the hem on a sample.
A narrow, topstitched hem is used with soft
knits and fabrics that do not ravel. After mark-
ing the hemline, trim the hem allowance to
5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Topstitch 1/2 inch (1.3 cm)
and 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the edge.

Fusible web. Using fusible web is a fast,

inconspicuous way to secure a hem. A fusible
web is a heat-sensitive adhesive that holds two
layers of fabric together. It is applied by means
of heat, moisture, and pressure for a specific
number of seconds. Fusible webs are available
in precut strips on rolls or in larger sheets from
which you can cut strips.

Guide C-314 • Page 7

PRESSING THE HEM REFERENCES
Because the heat sensitivity of fabrics differs, you Coats and Clark. 1973. Hems. Stitch in time, vol. 43,
need to follow the fusible web instructions and test no. 1.
the web on your fabric, making sure to set your Coats and Clark. 1976. Coats and Clark sewing book:
iron according to the fusible web instructions. Newest methods A to Z. New York: Golden Press.
Reader’s Digest. 2011. New complete guide to sewing:
Check the bond strength and the appearance of Updated edition. New York: Reader’s Digest Associa-
the sample. Carefully prepare the hem, making tion, Inc.
any needed adjustments before applying the fusible Simplicity Pattern Co. 1975. Simplicity sewing book.
web. If the hem is very curved, or has quite a bit of New York: Author.
ease, choose another method of securing the hem. Smith, A. 2009. The sewing book. New York: DK Pub-
The fullness or excess ease will not permit the hem lishing.
to fuse flat and smooth. Changes are possible but
difficult after applying the web. To prevent stretch-
ing the hem, avoid sliding the iron during the fus-
ing process. To prevent imprinting and to prevent
the fusible web from sticking to the iron, keep the
fusible web back from the cut edge of the hem at Original authors: Ardis W. Koester, Extension textiles and
least 1/4 inch (6 mm). clothing specialist, Oregon State University Cooperative
On lightweight to medium-weight fabrics, use Extension Service (reprinted with permission.). Subsequent-
3/4 to 1 inch wide (1.9 to 2.5 cm) strips of fusible ly reviewed by Susan Wright, Extension consumer education
web. With heavier fabrics, use a 2 inch (5 cm) strip and health specialist.
of fusible web. Fusible webs are not satisfactory
with sheer fabrics and laces.
Place fusible web between the garment and hem Wendy Hamilton is an Extension
about 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the edge and pin, if Grants and Contracts Development
Specialist at NMSU, providing ex-
necessary, to prevent slipping. Steam heat baste by pertise and guidance in writing pro-
steaming lightly between pins. Remove pins before gram grants and project contracts for
fusing. Complete the fusing process, working on a the College of Agricultural, Consumer
small section at a time. Allow to dry and cool and Environmental Sciences. She has
before handling. worked at four land-grant universi-
ties, and has a diverse background
After the hem has been secured to the garment, in textiles and clothing, adult educa-
remove the basting along the fold. If a knife-edged tion, 4-H youth-at-risk, horticulture,
hem is desired, press with a steam iron along the evaluation, and grant writing.
fold. Pound woolens with a pounding block. If
an unpressed or soft-rolled hem is desired, do not
touch the fold of the hem with the iron. Instead,
hold the iron 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) from
the hem fold and steam the fabric thoroughly. Pat
lightly with a pounding block to shape the hem’s
curve. Let steam evaporate completely before han-
dling the garment.

Reprinted with permission of Oregon State University Cooperative Extension Service.

Contents of publications may be freely reproduced, with an appropriate citation, for educational purposes. All other rights
reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact [email protected] or the authors listed on the publication.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department
of Agriculture cooperating.

Revised June 2019 Las Cruces, NM

Guide C-314 • Page 8