Copyright ©2014 Bitter o’Clock.

All Rights Reserved.

 Important Stuff:
 Yarn:
 Color A: medium worsted weight yarn in a bright green shade (1 skein)
 For the pattern tutorial photos, I used Vanna’s Choice in Fern
 For a wool option, I like Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted Weight in Avocado
 Color B: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Sequoia (small amount needed)
 Color C: medium worsted weight yarn in white (small amount needed)
 Color D: medium worsted weight yarn in black (small amount needed)
 Color E: medium worsted weight yarn in dark brown (small amount needed)
 Other Supplies:
 Size J hook
 Polyfiber stuffing (roughly two handfuls)
 Crochet needle

 Abbreviations and Stitches:

 DC: double-crochet
 SC: single-crochet
 Sl st: slip stitch
 DC2tog: double-crochet 2 stitches together by decreasing
 Ch: chain
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 The Hat
 With Color A (green), ch 3, sl st into the top of first ch to form ring.
 R1: Ch 2 (this is counts as the first DC throughout), 9 DC, join with a sl st. (10 sts)
 R2: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, 2 DC in each st around, join with a sl st. Tie off. (20 sts)
 R3: Ch2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 1 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (30 sts)
 R4: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 2 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (40 sts)
 (For newborn-sized hat, skip to R9)
 R5: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 3 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (50 sts)
 (For infant-sized hat—6-12 months--skip to R9)
 R6: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 4 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (60 sts)
 (For toddler- and child-sized hat, skip to R9)
 R7: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 5 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (70 sts)
 (For woman-sized hat, skip to R9)
 R8: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st, (2 DC in next st, 6 DC) repeat around, 1 DC in last st, join with a sl st. (70 sts)
 R9: Ch 2, 1 DC in 1st st and in each st around, join with a sl st.

Continued on next page…

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 Repeat R9 until it reaches the following length:
 Newborn (0-6 months): 5. 5” or 12 rows
 Infant (6-12 months): 6” or 13 rows
 Toddler (1-4 years): 6.5” or 14 rows
 Child (4-10 years): 7” or 15 rows
 Teenager/Woman: 7.5” or 16 rows
 Man: 8” or 17 rows
Finish the hat with: ch 1, 1 SC in 1st st and in each st around, join with a sl st. Tie off and weave in ends.

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 Top Ridge (make 2)
 With Color A (green), ch 22.
 R1: SC in 2nd st from hook, SC in next st, 1 DC in
each st across, 1 SC in last 3 sts, turn.
 R2: Ch 1, sl st into next 2 sts, SC in next 2 sts, DC
across, SC in next 2 sts, sl st in last 2 sts, tie off and weave in
ends.

Eye Ridges (make 2)

 With Color A (green), ch 26.
 R1: SC in 3rd st from hook, DC across, 1 SC in last 4
sts.
 R2: Ch 1, sl st into 1st st from hook and in next 3 sts,
SC in 2 sts, DC across, SC in last 4 sts, sl st in last st, tie off
and weave in ends.

These pieces look a lot alike, but the eye ridges is slightly longer, with the skinny “tail” (created by the SCs) on one end.

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 Pupils (Make 2)
 With Color D (black), create a magic ring.*
 R1: Ch 2, 9 DCs in ring, sl st into top of the 1st st
 R2: Ch 1, 2 SCs in each st around, sl st in last. Turn. Tie off.
 R3: With Color B (thick brown), ch1, 1 SC in each st around, sl st in
last. Tie off and weave in ends.

Eyeballs (Make 2)
 With Color C (white), ch 3, sl st into the top of first ch to form ring.
 R1: Ch 2, 9 DCs in ring, sl st into top of the 1st st
 R2: Ch 2, 2 DCs in each st around, sl st in last. Turn.
 R3: Ch 2, 2 DC in 1st st, (alternate 1 DC in one st, 2 DCs in next) repeat all the
way around, sl st into the top of the 1st st
 R4: Ch 2, 2 DC in 1st st, (alternate 1 DC in next two sts, 2 DCs in next) repeat
all the way around, sl st into the top of the 1st st
 R5: Ch 1, sl st in next 23 sts, SC in the rest of the sts, sl st into top of 1st st
 R6 : Repeat previous row. Tie off and weave in ends.

* For instructions on magic rings, see the last page of the pattern. If you do not want to use
the magic ring, you can substitute the following pattern: Ch 3, sl st into the top of first
ch to form ring.
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 Snout
With Color A (green), ch 20, turn.
• R1: DC in 2nd st from hook and in each st across, turn
• R2: Ch 2, 2DCtog, 1 DC in next 15 sts, 2DCtog, turn
• R3: Ch 2, 2DCtog, 1 DC in next 13 sts, 2DCtog, turn
• R4: Ch 2, 2DCtog, 1 DC in next 11 sts, 2DCtog, tie off and weave in ends.

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 Assembly 1
This part can get confusing, so refer to the photos, as needed.
 First the snout: we’ll start by positioning the center of the mouth right
at the bottom of the hat (see Point A in Figure 1). Begin stitching
clockwise around the outside of the mouth from the bottom.
 When you get to the end of the bottom row, create a little “tent” with
the part that isn’t sewn down. The bottom of the snout should be about
one row deep, one row being the tip of the snout, and two rows on the
top of the snout. (Point B in Figure 2) The top of the snout should lay at
the 2nd DC row from the bottom. Stitch along the side of the snout, Point A
keeping in mind how the tent lays. The side will be flattened slightly at
the edges because they are sewed, but you’ll want to maintain the tent
shape in the middle. When you’re nearly done stitching all the way 2
around, stuff about a small bit of filling into the snout and spread it out,
maintaining the same tent shape, then sew the rest of the snout on. Tie
off and weave in ends.

Point B
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 Now we’re going to work on the top ridge. Line up the two pieces 3
together, with the flat ends lined up. Begin whip-stitching the tops
of the pieces together, leaving the bottom open (Point C in Figure
3). Position the front of the ridge (the flatter part) at the top- Point C
middle of the hat, approximately 4 rows from the top (Point D in
Figure 4). Begin stitching it on, keeping the ridge pieces separated
by about an inch at the bottom. It’ll stretch down the back to
around 7 DC rows down.

Point D

Point E
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 • Flatten the hat in order to work on the eyes next.You’ll notice that 5
the back of the top ridge provides a bump down the middle of the
hat (Point E in Figure 5). This provides a convenient way to add the Point E
eye ridges. Starting with the flat end of an eye ridge, lay it flat along
the bump, with the top row pointing inward. Begin sewing it onto
the hat, with the ridge laying flat. When the ridge begins getting
larger (Point F in Figure 6), stand it up and begin sewing on the
bottom row to the hat (instead of it laying flat).

• Keep going straight up until you get just below the top ridge (Point
G in Figure 6). At that point, begin curving outward to the edge of
the flattened hat.You may want to use the eyeball (the white part)
while shaping the eye ridge, to make sure it’s big enough to “contain”
the eye. There should be about a half-inch gap between the eye ridge
and the eyeball (Figure 7). Tie off and weave in ends.
6 Point F
7

10
9
Point G 11
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 • Next up are the eyes. Using Color E (dark brown) yarn, you’ll
be sewing the pupil onto the eyeball (the white part). The
reason for using this brown yarn instead of the thick stuff is to 8 Point H
make it easier to sew it on. If you look at Figure 8, you’ll see
concentric circles with the outer rings being off-centered. Think
of each ring at a new row of the white eyeball part. The brown
circle, which is off-centered is approximately how you should
position the pupil (Point H). This way, it’ll not point too far
inward and will instead be flat.

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 • Now we’re going to sew the eyeballs onto the hat. Find the area where the
pupil is pointing downward (see Point I on Figure 9). Point this area toward 9 Point I
the very middle (between the eye ridges). The eyeball should fit right under
the eye ridge, but above the snout. Sew most of the way around. When there
is about an inch left to be sewn, stuff some polyfiber filling in there—not too
much. Just enough to fill out the shape of the eye without making it bulge.
Finish sewing around the eyeball. Tie off and weave in the ends.

• The next part is adding the “glints” to the eyes.You may wonder why we
didn’t do that part when we were sewing the pupil onto the eyes.You can
certainly do it that way, if you’d like. But what I found is that it’s difficult to
do that part all at once and have the glints point in the correct directions
once you have sewn it altogether. To add the glints, take a piece of white
yarn, maybe 6 inches long. Going from the inside of the hat, just below the
eyeball, use a needle to poke through to the eyeball, then back down, all the
way to the inside of the hat. Tie off and weave in ends.

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It’s up to you how you would like the glints to
look. I usually have them where the brown and
black colors meet. If you picture the eyeball as a
clock, I usually sew it on from 12:00 to 1:00
(see Figure 10).

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 • The final part is the nostrils. This is very simple. Take a piece of black yarn, maybe 12 inches long. Using a needle, you’ll
go from inside the hat, poke it through the snout so it comes out just above the tip of the snout “tent,” where it’s pointy.
Start the line to the left of the eye ridge, then push the needle back in just to the right of the same eye ridge. This will
help you make the lines consistent. The result will be approximately ½” long. Do the same with below the other eye
ridge. The two lines should be approximately an inch apart from each other. Tie off and weave in ends.

Left Eye Ridge Right Eye Ridge

Tip of
Snout

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 I hope you enjoyed this pattern and that you found it relatively easy and enjoyable. If you have
any questions or comments, feel free to email me at [email protected].

If you are looking for more patterns, tutorials, business tips, or other fun craft stuff, visit my
blog at blog.bitteroclock.com. Or if you want to skip all that and just buy a hat, visit my
website at Bitteroclock.com.

Thanks!
Kelli Petersen
Bitter o’Clock

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Additional Instructions
How to Decrease Double Crochet Stitches:
 By Susan Brittain and Karen Manthey from Crocheting For Dummies
 Yarn over the hook, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch
 Yarn over, draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on your hook
 Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
 Yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch
 Yarn over, draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on your hook
 Yarn over, draw the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook
For diagrams and further instruction, go to:
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-decrease-double-crochet.html

How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring:

• By YarnTomato from CrochetMe (with adjustments for SCs)
• Make a large loop by putting the yarn tail behind the working yarn (the yarn coming from the skein)
• With your hook, draw the working yarn through the loop, so you have one loop on the hook
• Ch 1
• SC 9 times into the loop, crocheting over the tail
• Pull the tail to draw the loop closed
• Sl st into the top of first ch
• For photos and further instruction, go to:
http://www.crochetme.com/forums/t/28917.aspx

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