SESSION PLAN

Sector: AUTOMOTIVE AND LAND TRANSPORT

Qualification Title: AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC II
Unit of Competency: SERVICE CLUTCH SYSTEM
Module Title: SERVICING CLUTCH SYSTEM
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
LO1. Diagnose clutch failure/problem
LO2. Pull out and mount clutch component parts
LO3. Dismantle/install clutch mechanism
LO4. Overhaul hydraulic clutch mechanism
LO5. Perform clutch parts failure analysis
LO6. Set/adjust clutch system components
LO7. Bleed clutch hydraulic system
A. INTRODUCTION:
This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitude in servicing clutch system. This unit deals with servicing
clutch system. It also include repairing and replacing the damaged parts/components of the system.
B. LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
LO1. DIAGNOSE CLUTCH FAILURE/PROBLEM
Learning Methods Presentation Practice Feedback Resources Time
Content
1.DIAGNOSE Read Information Answer Self Check  Information Sheet 2 hour
CLUTCH  Discussion Sheet No. 7.1-1 Check 7.1-1. answers with 7.1-1 30
FAILURE/PRO (Clutch System) Answer Key  Answer Key Sheet minutes
BLEM Sheet 7.1-1 7.1-1

24
 Read Information Check  Information Sheet
Sheet No. 7.1-2 Answer Self answers with 7.1-2
Individual Answer Key Sheet 1hour
 30
(Clutch Failure Check 7.1-2 Answer Key 
Learning minutes
Problem) Sheet 7.1-2 7.1-2
Return
Demonstration
on Task Sheet  Light duty vehicle
Evaluate
The trainer will 7.1-1  Hydraulic lifter
Performance
 Demonstra demonstrate how to  Manuals
with 4 hours
tion diagnose clutch  Task Sheet 7.1-1
(Diagnosing Performance
failure/problem.  Performance
clutch Criteria 7.1-1 Criteria 7.1-1
failure/problem
)
LO 2. PULL OUT AND MOUNT CLUTCH COMPONENT PARTS
2.PULL OUT
AND MOUNT Read Information
CLUTCH Sheet No. 7.2-1 Check  Information Sheet
 Individual
COMPONENT (Dismounting and Answer Self answers with No. 7.2-1
Learning
PARTS mounting clutch Check 7.2-1. Answer Key  Answer Key Sheet 2 Hours
 Lecture component Sheet 7.2-1 7.2-1
procedures)
Read Information
Sheet No. 7.2-2 Check  Information Sheet
 Individual (Bolt tightening Answer Self answers with No. 7.2-2 1hour 30
Learning sequence and Check 7.2-2 Answer Key  Answer Key Sheet minutes
 Lecture pattern, and correct Sheet 8.2-2 7.2-2
torque)
Read Information
Sheet No. 7.2-3 Check  Information Sheet
(Handling of special Answer Self answers with No. 7.2-3
Individual tools for Answer Key Sheet 2 hours
 Check 7.2-3 Answer Key 
Learning dismounting &
mounting clutch Sheet 7.2-3 7.2-3
components)
Read Information Answer Self Check  Information Sheet 1hour 30
 Individual Sheet No. 7.2-4 Check 7.2-4 answers with No. 7.2-4 minutes
25
 (Precaution in
handling hydraulic Answer Key  Answer Key Sheet
Learning fluids and special Sheet 7.2-4 7.2-4
tools)
Read Information Check  Information Sheet 1 hour
Sheet No. 7.2-5 Answer Self answers with No. 7.2-5
 Individual 30
(Applying personal Check 7.2-5 Answer Key  Answer Key Sheet
Learning minutes
safety procedures) Sheet 7.2-5 7.2-5
 Hydraulic
Return lifters/mechanica
demonstration l lifters
 Demonstra Video showing on Task Sheet No. Evaluate  Support stand
tion 7.2-1 Performance
pull outing and  Transmission
(Pull outing and with 8 hours
mounting clutch jack
 Individual mounting Performance
component parts  Basic hand tools
Learning clutch Criteria 7.2-1  Manuals
component  Light duty
parts) vehicle
C. ASSESSMENT PLAN
 Interview
 Written examination
 Practical demonstration
 Direct observation
D. TEACHER’S SELF-REFLECTION OF THE SESSION
The principle “Learning by doing” is very much applicable in this unit of competency. Some trainees are very eager
to perform actual jobs without observing the principle involved. The trainees always observe safety precautions while at
work.

26
 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC-II
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector:
Automotive Land Transport
Qualification Title:
Automotive Servicing NC-II
Unit of Competency:
Service Clutch System
Module Title:
Servicing Clutch System

KING’S COLLEGE OF THE

PHILIPPINES
Pico Road, La Trinidad, Benguet

27
 HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL?
Welcome!

The unit of competency, “Service Clutch System” is one of the

competencies of Automotive Servicing NC II, a course which comprises the
knowledge, skills and attitude require for a TVET trainer to possess.

The module, “Servicing Clutch System” contains training materials and

activities related to identifying learner’s requirements, preparing session
plan, preparing basic in structural materials and organizing learning and
teaching activities for you to complete.

In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning

activities in order to complete each learning outcome. In each learning
outcomes are Information Sheets, Self-Checks, and Task/Job
Sheets. Follow and perform these activities. If you have questions, don’t
hesitate to ask your facilitator/instructor for assistance.

Remember to:

 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each
section.

 Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested

references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.

 Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.

He is there to support you and show you the correct way to do
things.

 You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and

practice on the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during
regular work shifts. This way, you will improve your speed, memory
and your confidence.

 Use the Self-Checks, Operation Sheets or Task or Job Sheets at the

end of each section to test your own progress. Use the Performance
Criteria Checklist or procedural Checklist located after the sheet to
check your own performance.

 When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask
your Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be
recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.

You need to complete this module before you can perform the next
module.
Date Developed: Document No.
Issued by:
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Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 1
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC-II
List of Competencies
UNIT OF
NO. MODULE TITLE CODE
COMPETENCY

Service Automotive Servicing Automotive

1. ALT723303
Battery Battery

Service Ignition Servicing Ignition

2. ALT723304
System System

Test and Repair Testing and Repairing

3. ALT723305
Wiring/Lighting System Wiring/Lighting System

Service Starting Servicing Starting

4. ALT723306
System System

Service Charging Servicing Charging

5. ALT723307
System System

Servicing Engine
6. Service Engine ALT723308
Mechanical System
Mechanical System
Service Clutch Servicing Clutch
7. ALT72339
System System

Service Differential Servicing Differential

8. ALT723310
and Front Axle and Front Axle

9. Service Steering ALT723311

Service Steering System
System

10. Service Brake System Servicing Brake System ALT723312

11. Service Suspension Servicing Suspension

ALT723313
System System
Perform Under Chassis Performing Under
12. Preventive Chassis Preventive
ALT723314
Maintenance Maintenance

13. Overhaul Manual Overhauling Manual

ALT723315
Transmission Transmission

Date Developed: Document No.

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Revision # 01
 MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : SERVICE CLUTCH SYSTEM

CODE : ALT72339

MODULE TITLE : SERVICING CLUTCH SYSTEM

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module deals with servicing clutch

system. It also includes repairing and
replacing the damaged parts/components of
the system.

NOMINAL DURATION : 40 hours

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student MUST be
able to:

1. Diagnose clutch failure/problem

2. Pull out and mount clutch component parts

3. Dismantle/Install clutch mechanism

4. Overhaul hydraulic clutch mechanism

5. Perform clutch parts failure analysis

6. Set/adjust clutch system components

7. Bleed clutch hydraulic system

LO1. DIAGNOSE CLUTCH FAILURE/PROBLEM

Date Developed: Document No.
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 ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Clutch should engage/disengage engine and transmission
smoothly.
2. Work is completed in accordance with company standard
operating procedures and manufacturer’s specification, manuals
using specified tools and equipment.

CONTENTS:
 Clutch failure/problem diagnosis
- Clutch pedal goes to floorboard when depressed
- Clutch slip when engaged
- Clutch spine or drags while engaged
- Clutch chatters or grabs while being engaged
- Clutch related vibration
- Clutch area noises
- Clutch pedal pulsation

CONDITIONS:
Students/trainees must be provided with the following:
 Light duty vehicle
 Hydraulic lifter
 Manuals

METHODOLOGIES:
 Interactive discussion
 Self-paced instruction
 Dual training

ASSESSMENT METHODS
 Interview
 Written examination
 Practical demonstration
 Direct observation

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

LEARNING OUTCOME 1
Date Developed: Document No.
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 LO TITLE: Diagnose Clutch Failure/Problem

LEARNING ACTIVITIES SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS

Read and understand the

Read Information Sheet No. 1.1-1
information sheet and Check
yourself by answering the Self
Check. You must answer all
question correctly before
Read Information Sheet No. 1.1-2 proceeding to the next activity.

Task Sheets will help you practice

your skills.
The Performance Criteria Checklist
will guide and help you evaluate
your work as you are practicing
your skill.
Evaluate your own work using the
Performance Criteria.
If you did not get it perfectly, go
Perform Task Sheet No. 1.1-1
back and read again Task Sheet
1.1-1 and perform again the task.
. When you are ready, present
your work to your trainer for final
evaluation and recording.
After doing all activities of this LO,
you are ready to proceed to the
next LO on Pull out and mount
clutch component parts.

Date Developed: Document No.

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Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 5
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 INFORMATION SHEET 7.1-1
(CLUTCH SYSTEM)

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to state the
operating principles and identify the components and the maintenance for
a clutch.

GENERAL OPERATING PRINCIPLES

In a vehicle, the mechanism that transmits the power developed by
the engine to the wheels and/or tracks and accessory equipment is called
the power train. In a simple application, such as a stationary engine-
powered hoist, a set of gears or a chain and sprocket could perform this
task. However, auto- motive and construction equipment are not
designed for such simple operating conditions. They are designed
to provide pulling power, to move at high speeds, to travel in reverse as
well as forward, and to operate on rough terrain as well as smooth roads.
To meet these varying conditions, vehicle power trains are equipped with
a variety of components.

This chapter discusses the basic automotive clutch,

transmissions (manual and automatic), and transaxles (manual and
automatic).

An automotive clutch is used to connect and disconnect the

engine and manual (hand-shifted) transmission or transaxle. The
clutch is located between the back of the engine and the front of the
transmission. Type of clutches common are the single-, double-, and
multiple-disc types. The clutch that will be discussed are; the single-disc
type, (as shown in Figure 1), and the double-disc clutch, (as shown Figure
2) which is substantially the same as the single disc, except that another
driven disc and an intermediate driving plate are added.

This clutch is used in heavy-duty vehicles and construction

equipment. The multiple-disc clutch is used in the automatic transmission
and for the steering clutch used in tracked equipment.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 Figure 1. Single-disc clutch

Figure 3. Clutch Linkage

Figure 2. Double-disc clutch Mechanism
The operating principles, component functions, and
maintenance requirements are essentially the same for each of the three
clutches mentioned. This being the case, the single-disc clutch will be
used to acquaint you with the fundamentals of the clutch.

CLUTCH CONSTRUCTION
The clutch is the first drive train component powered by the engine
crankshaft. The clutch lets the driver control power flow between the
engine and the transmission or transaxle. Before understanding the
operation of a clutch, you must first become familiar with the parts
and their function. This information is very useful when learning to
diagnose and repair the clutch assembly.

Clutch Release Mechanism

A clutch release mechanism allows the operator to operate the
clutch. Generally, it consists of the clutch pedal assembly, either
mechanical linkage, cable, or hydraulic circuit, and the clutch fork. Some
manufacturers include the release bearing as part of the clutch release
mechanism.
A clutch linkage mechanism uses levers and rods to transfer motion
from the clutch pedal to the clutch fork. One configuration is shown in
figure 3. When the pedal is pressed, a pushrod shoves on the bell crank
and the bell crank reverses the forward movement of the clutch pedal.
The other end of the bell crank is connected to the release rod. The
release rod transfers bell crank movement to the clutch fork. It also
provides a method of adjustment for the clutch.
The clutch cable mechanism uses a steel cable inside a flexible
housing to transfer pedal movement to the clutch fork. As shown in figure
4, the cable is usually fastened to the upper end of the clutch pedal, with
the other end of the cable connecting to the clutch fork. The cable
housing is mounted in a stationary position. This allows the cable to slide
inside the housing whenever the clutch pedal is moved. One end of the
clutch cable housing has a threaded sleeve for clutch adjustment.
Date Developed: Document No.
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 Figure 4. Clutch Cable Mechanism
A hydraulic clutch release mechanism (Figure 5) uses a simple
hydraulic circuit to transfer clutch pedal action to the clutch fork. It has
three basic parts namely; master cylinder, hydraulic lines, and a slave
cylinder. Movement of the clutch pedal creates hydraulic pressure in the
master cylinder, which actuates the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder
then moves the clutch fork.

Clutch Fork
The clutch fork, also called a clutch arm or release arm, transfers
motion from the release mechanism to the release bearing and pressure
plate. The clutch fork sticks through a square hole in the bell housing and
mounts on a pivot. When the clutch fork is moved by the release
mechanism, it PRIES on the release bearing to disengage the clutch. A
rubber boot fits over the clutch fork. This boot is designed to keep road
dirt, rocks, oil, water, and other debris from entering the clutch housing
assembly, with the manual transmission bolted to the back of the housing.
The lower front of the housing has a metal cover that can be removed for
fly-wheel ring gear inspection or when the engine must be separated from
the clutch assembly. A hole is provided in the side of the housing for the
clutch fork. It can be made of aluminum, magnesium, or cast iron.

Release Bearing
The release bearing, also called the throw-out bearing, is a
ball bearing and collar assembly. It reduces friction between the
pressure plate levers and the release fork. The release bearing is a sealed
unit pack with a lubricant. It slides on a hub sleeve extending out from
the front of the manual transmission or transaxle. The release bearing
snaps over the end of the clutch fork. Small spring clips hold the bearing
on the fork. Then fork movement in either direction slides the release
bearing along the transmission hub sleeve.

Date Developed: Document No.

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Pressure Plate Clutch Housing
The clutch housing is also called the bell housing. It bolts to the rear
of the engine, enclosing the clutch. The pressure plate is a spring-loaded
device that can either engage or disengage the clutch disc and the
flywheel. It bolts to the flywheel.

Figure 5. Hydraulic Clutch Release Mechanism

The clutch disc fits between the flywheel and the pressure plate.
There are two types of pressure plates—the coil spring type and the
diaphragm type. Coil spring pressure plate uses small coil springs similar
to valve springs (Figure 6). The face of the pressure plate is a large, flat
ring that contacts the clutch disc during clutch engagement. The backside
of the pressure plate has pockets for the coil springs and brackets for
hinging the release levers. During clutch action, the pressure plate moves
back and forth inside the clutch cover. The release levers are hinged
inside the pressure plate to pry on and move the pressure plate face away
from the clutch disc and flywheel. Small clip-type springs fit around the
release levers to keep them rattling when fully released. The pressure
plate cover fits over the springs, the release levers, and the pressure plate
face. Its main purpose is to hold the assembly together. Holes around the
outer edge of the cover are for bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Diaphragm pressure plate (Figure 7) uses a single diaphragm spring
instead of coil springs. This type of pressure plate functions similar to that
of the coil spring type. The diaphragm spring is a large, round disc of
spring steel. The spring is bent or dished and has pie-shaped segments
running from the outer edge to the center. The diaphragm spring is
mounted in the pressure plate with the outer edge touching the back of
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the pressure plate face. The outer rim of the diaphragm is secured to the
pressure plate and is pivoted on rings (pivot rings) approximately 1 inch
from the outer edge.

Figure 6. Coil Spring pressure plate

Figure 7. Diaphragm Pressure Plate Operation

Application of pressure at the inner section of the diaphragm will cause
the outer rim to move away from the flywheel and draw the pressure plate
away from the clutch disc, disengaging the clutch.

Clutch Disc
The clutch disc, also called friction lining, consists of a splined hub
and a round metal plate covered with friction material (lining). The splines
in the center of the clutch disc mesh with the splines on the input shaft of
the manual transmission. This makes the input shaft and disc turn
together.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 However, the disc is free to slide back and forth on the shaft. Clutch
disc torsion springs, also termed damping springs, absorb some of the
vibration and shock produced by clutch engagement. They are small coil
springs located between the clutch disc splined hub and the friction disc
assembly. When the clutch is engaged, the pressure plate jams the
stationary disc against the spinning flywheel. The torsion springs
compress and soften, as the disc first begins to turn with the flywheel.
Clutch disc facing springs, also called the cushioning springs, are
flat metal springs located under the friction lining of the disc. These
springs have a slight wave or curve, allowing the lining to flex inward
slightly during initial engagement. This also allows for smooth
engagement.
The clutch disc friction material, also called disc lining or facing, is
made of heat-resistant asbestos, cotton fibers, and copper wires
woven or molded together. Grooves are cut into the friction material to
aid cooling and release of the clutch disc. Rivets are used to bond the
friction material to both sides of the metal body of the disc.
The clutch disc friction material, also called disc lining or facing, is
made of heat-resistant asbestos, cotton fibers, and copper wires
woven or molded together. Grooves are cut into the friction material to
aid cooling and release of the clutch disc. Rivets are used to bond the
friction material to both sides of the metal body of the disc.

Flywheel
The flywheel is the mounting surface for the clutch. The
pressure plate bolts to the flywheel face. The clutch disc is clamped and
held against the flywheel by the spring action of the pressure plate. The
face of the flywheel is precision machined to a smooth surface. The face
of the flywheel that touches the clutch disc is made of iron. Even if the
flywheel were aluminum, the face is iron because it wears well and
dissipates heat better.

Pilot Bearing
The pilot bearing or bushing is pressed into the end of the
crankshaft to support the end of the transmission input shaft. The pilot
bearing is a solid bronze bushing, but it also may be a roller or ball
bearing. The end of the transmission input shaft has a small journal
machined on its end. This journal slides inside the pilot bearing. The pilot
bearing prevents the transmission shaft and clutch disc from wobbling up
and down when the clutch is released. It also assists the input shaft center
the disc on the flywheel.

CLUTCH OPERATION
When the operator presses the clutch pedal, the clutch release
mechanism pulls or pushes on the clutch release lever or fork (Figure 8).
The fork moves the release bearing into the center of the pressure plate,
causing the pressure plate to pull away from the clutch disc releasing the
disc from the flywheel. The engine crankshaft can then turn without
Date Developed: Document No.
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turning the clutch disc and transmission input shaft. When the operator
releases the clutch pedal, spring pressure inside the pressure plate pushes
forward on the clutch disc (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Clutch Operation

This action locks the flywheel, the clutch disc, the pressure plate,
and the transmission input shaft together. The engine again rotates the
transmission input shaft the transmission gears, the drive train, and the
wheels of the vehicle.

CLUTCH START SWITCH

Many of the newer vehicles incorporate a clutch start switch into the
starting system. The clutch start switch is mounted on the clutch pedal
assembly. The clutch start switch prevents the engine from cranking
unless the clutch pedal is depressed fully. This serves as a safety device
that keeps the engine from possibly starting while in gear. Wires from the
ignition switch feeds starter solenoid current through the switch. Unless
the switch is closed (clutch pedal depressed), the switch prevents current
from reaching the starter solenoid. With the transmission in neutral, the
clutch start switch is bypassed so the engine will crank and start.

Diagram of a Car showing Clutch Location

Date Developed: Document No.

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 If you drive a manual transmission car, you may be surprised to find
out that it has more than one clutch. And it turns out that folks with
automatic transmission cars have clutches, too. In fact, there are clutches
in many things you probably see or use every day: Many cordless drills
have a clutch, chain saws have a centrifugal clutch and even some yo-yos
have a clutch.
You will learn why you need a clutch, how the clutch in your car
works and find out some interesting, and perhaps surprising, places where
clutches can be found.
Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these
devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the
other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is
driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects
the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the
same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.
In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time,
but the car's wheels do not. In order for a car to stop without killing the
engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow.
The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-
spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them.
To understand how a clutch works, it helps to know a little bit about
friction, which is a measure of how hard it is to slide one object over
another. Friction is caused by the peaks and valleys that are part of every
surface even very smooth surfaces still have microscopic peaks and
valleys. The larger these peaks and valleys are, the harder it is to slide the
object. You can learn more about friction in How Brakes Work.
A clutch works because of friction between a clutch plate and a flywheel.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 Fly Wheels, Clutch Plates and Friction
In a car's clutch, a flywheel connects to the engine, and a clutch plate
connects to the transmission.
How a clutch engages and releases?
When the clutch pedal is pressed, a cable or hydraulic piston pushes on
the release fork, which presses the throw-out bearing against the middle
of the diaphragm spring. As the middle of the diaphragm spring is pushed
in, a series of pins near the outside of the spring causes the spring to pull
the pressure plate away from the clutch disc. This releases the clutch from
the spinning engine.
SELF CHECK 8.1-1
Identification: Given the following statements describe thereto, identify
the parts of the clutch.

______________1. In a vehicle, the mechanism that transmits the power

developed by the engine to the wheels and/or tracks and accessory
equipment is called?

______________2. It is used to engage and disengage the power from the

engine to the manual transmission/transaxle?

______________3. This is a type of clutch release mechanism that uses

levers and rods to transfer motion from the clutch pedal to the clutch fork.
When the pedal is pressed, a pushrod shoves on the bell crank and the
bell crank reverses the forward movement of the clutch pedal. The
other end of the bell crank is connected to the release rod. The release
rod transfers bell crank movement to the clutch fork.

_______________4. This is a type of clutch release mechanism that uses a

steel cable inside a flexible housing to transfer pedal movement to the
clutch fork. The cable is usually fastened to the upper end of the clutch
pedal, with the other end of the cable connecting to the clutch fork. The
cable housing is mounted in a stationary position. This allows the cable
to slide inside the housing whenever the clutch pedal is moved. One end
of the clutch cable housing has a threaded sleeve for clutch adjustment.

Date Developed: Document No.

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________________5. This is a type of clutch release mechanism that uses a
simple hydraulic circuit to transfer clutch pedal action to the clutch fork.
It has three basic parts namely;
master cylinder, hydraulic lines, and a slave cylinder.
________________6. This clutch part is also called a clutch arm or release
arm, transfers motion from the release mechanism to the release bearing
and pressure plate.

________________7. It reduces friction between the pressure plate levers

and the release fork. This is a sealed unit pack with a lubricant. It slides
on a hub sleeve extending out from the front of the manual transmission
or transaxle.

________________8. This is a clutch system part which is a spring-

loaded device that can either engage or disengage the clutch disc and the
flywheel. It bolts to the flywheel.

________________9. This is also called friction lining, consists of a splined

hub and a round metal plate covered with friction material (lining).

________________10. This prevents the transmission shaft and clutch disc

from wobbling up and down when the clutch is released. It also assists the
input shaft center the disc on the flywheel
ANSWER KEY 7.1-1

1. Power Train

2. Automotive Clutch

3. Clutch linkage mechanism

4. Clutch cable mechanism

5. Hydraulic Clutch Release Mechanism

6. Clutch Fork

7. Release Bearing

8. Pressure Plate

9. Clutch Disc

10.Pilot Bearing

Date Developed: Document No.

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 INFORMATION SHEET 7.1-2
(CLUTCH FAILURE/ PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS)

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. Identify clutch problem and failure.
2. Conduct diagnosis of the clutch problem/failure.

OVERVIEW
An automotive clutch normally provides depend- able service for
thousands of miles. However, stop and go traffic will wear out a clutch
quicker than highway driving. Every time a clutch is engaged, the clutch
disc and other components are subjected to considerable heat, friction,
and wear.

Operator abuse commonly causes premature clutch troubles. For

instance,” riding the clutch" (over slipping clutch upon acceleration),
resting your foot on the clutch pedal while driving, and other
driving errors can cause early clutch failure.

When a vehicle enters the shop for clutch troubles, you should test-
drive the vehicle. While the vehicle is being test-driven, you should check
the action of the clutch pedal, listen for unusual noises, and feel for clutch
pedal vibrations. Gather as much information as you can on the operation
Date Developed: Document No.
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of the clutch. Use this information, your knowledge of clutch principles,
and a service manual- troubleshooting chart to determine which
components are faulty.

There are five types of clutch problems—slipping, grabbing,

dragging, abnormal noises, and vibration. It is important to know the
symptoms produced by these problems and the parts that might be the
cause.

Slipping
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate
at the same speed as the driving member when the clutch is fully
engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure plate
fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel.

If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly

on acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight
but continuous slippage may go unnoticed until the clutch facings
are ruined by excessive temperature caused by friction. Normal wear of
the clutch lining causes the free travel of the clutch linkage to decrease,
creating the need for adjustment.

Improper clutch adjustment can cause slippage by keeping the

release bearing in contact with the pressure plate in the released position.
Even with your foot off the pedal, the release mechanism will act on the
clutch fork and release bearing. Some clutch linkages are designed to
allow only enough adjustment to compensate for the lining to wear close
to the rivet heads. This prevents damage to the flywheel and pressure
plate by the rivets wearing grooves in their smooth surfaces.

Other linkages will allow for adjustment after the disc is worn out.
When in doubt whether the disc is worn excessively, remove the
inspection cover on the clutch housing and visually inspect the disc.
Binding linkage prevents the pressure plate from exerting its full
pressure against the disc, allowing it to slip. Inspect the release
mechanism for rusted, bent, misaligned, sticking, or damaged
components. Wiggle the release fork to check for free play. These
problems result in slippage.

A broken motor mount (engine mount) can cause clutch slippage by

allowing the engine to move, binding the clutch linkage. Under load, the
engine can lift up in the engine compartment, shifting the clutch linkage
and pushing on the release fork. Grease and oil on the disc will also cause
slippage. When this occurs, locate and stop any leakage,
thoroughly clean the clutch components, and replace the clutch disc. This
is the only remedy.

If clutch slippage is NOT caused by a problem with the clutch

release mechanism, then the trouble is normally inside the clutch. You
Date Developed: Document No.
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have to remove the transmission and clutch components for further
inspection. Internal clutch problems, such as weak springs and bent or
improperly adjusted release levers, will prevent the pressure plate from
applying even pressure. This condition allows the disc to slip.
To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake and start
the engine. Place the transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then try to
drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal.

A clutch in good condition should lock up and immediately kill the

engine. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run, even with the
clutch pedal fully released. Partial clutch slippage could let the
engine run momentarily before stalling.

NOTE:
Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two. The extreme heat
generated by slippage will damage the flywheel and pressure plate faces.

Grabbing
A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration
or jerking motion when the vehicle is accelerated from a standstill. Even
when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the
clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down.

A loud bang or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle body

vibrates. Clutch grabbing and chatter is caused by problems with
components inside the clutch housing (friction disc, flywheel, or pressure
plate). Other reasons for a grabbing clutch could be due to oil or grease
on the disc facings, glazing, or loose disc facings. Broken parts in the
clutch, such as broken disc facings, broken facing springs, or a broken
pressure plate, will also cause grabbing. There are several things outside
of the clutch that will cause a clutch to grab or chatter when it is being
engaged. Loose spring shackles or U-bolts, loose transmission mounts,
and worn engine mounts are among the items to be checked. If the
clutch linkage binds, it may release suddenly to throw the clutch into
quick engagement, resulting in a heavy jerk. However, if all these items
are checked and found to be in good condition, the trouble is inside the
clutch itself and will have to be removed for repair.

Dragging
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind
when trying to engage or shift gears. This condition results when the
clutch disc does not completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure
plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends
to continue turning with the engine and attempts to drive the
transmission.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 The most common cause of a dragging clutch is too much clutch
pedal free travel. With excessive free travel, the pressure plate will not
fully release when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. Always check
the clutch adjustments first. If adjustment of the linkage does not correct
the trouble, the problem is in the clutch, which must be removed for
repair. On the inside of the clutch housing, you will generally find a
warped disc or pressure plate, oil or grease on the friction surface,
rusted or damaged transmission input shaft, or improper adjustment of
the pressure plate release levers causing the problem.

Abnormal Noises
Faulty clutch parts can make various noises. When an operator
reports that a clutch is making noise, find out when the noise is heard.
Does the sound occur when the pedal is moved, when in neutral, when in
gear, or when the pedal is held to the floor? This will assist you in
determining which parts are producing these noises. An operator reports
hearing a scraping, clunking, or squeaking sound when the clutch pedal is
moved up or down. This is a good sign of a worn or unlubricated clutch
release mechanism. With the engine off, pump the pedal and listen for the
sound. Once the source of the sound is located, you should clean,
lubricate, or replace the parts as required. Sounds produced from the
clutch, when the clutch is initially ENGAGED, are generally due to friction
disc problems, such as a worn clutch disc facing, which causes a metal-to-
metal grinding sound. A rattling or a knocking sound may be produced by
weak or broken clutch disc torsion springs. These sounds indicate
problems that require the removal of the transmission and clutch
assembly for repair. If clutch noises are noticeable when the clutch is
DISENGAGED, the trouble is most likely the clutch release bearing. The
bearing is probably either worn, binding, or, in some cases, loses its
lubricant. Most clutch release bearings are factory lubricated;
however, on some larger trucks and construction equipment, the bearing
requires periodic lubrication. A worn pilot bearing may also produce noises
when the clutch is disengaged. The worn pilot bearing can let the
transmission input shaft and clutch disc vibrate up and down, causing an
unusual noise. Sounds heard in NEUTRAL, that disappear when the clutch
pedal is pushed, are caused by problems inside the transmission. Many of
these sounds are due to worn bearings. However, always refer to
the troubleshooting chart in the manufacturer's manual.

Pedal Pulsation
A pulsating clutch pedal is caused by the run out (wobble or
vibration) of one of the rotating members of the clutch assembly. A series
of slight movements can be felt on the clutch pedal. These pulsations are
noticeable when light foot pressure is applied. This is an indication of
trouble that could result in serious damage if not corrected
immediately. There are several conditions that can cause these
pulsations. One possible cause is misalignment of the transmission and
engine.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 If the transmission and engine are not in line, detach the
transmission and remove the clutch assembly. Check the clutch housing
alignment with the engine and crankshaft. At the same time, the
flywheel can be checked for runout, since a bent flywheel or
crankshaft flange will produce clutch pedal pulsation. If the flywheel
does not seat on the crankshaft flange, remove the flywheel. After
cleaning the crankshaft flange and flywheel, replace the flywheel, making
sure a positive seat is obtained between the flywheel and the
flange. If the flange is bent, the crankshaft must be replaced. Other
causes of clutch pedal pulsation include bent or maladjusted pressure
plate release levers, warped pressure plate, or warped clutch disc. If
either the clutch disc or pressure plate is warped, they must be replaced.

Figure 9. Master Cylinder, Slave cylinder, and connections for a

typical hydraulic clutch

CLUTCH PROBLEM/FAILURE DIAGNOSIS

Date Developed: Document No.

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 If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem
is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away
when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point
between the fork and pivot ball.
1. Start your car, set the parking brake, and put the car in neutral.
2. With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the
clutch in. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the
transmission. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three.
3. With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for
noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the
clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise,
proceed to step four.
4. Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing
noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing.

COMMON PROBLEMS
From the 1950s to the 1970s, you could count on getting between
50,000 and 70,000 miles from your car's clutch. Clutches can now last for
more than 80,000 miles if you use them gently and maintain them well. If
not cared for, clutches can start to break down at 35,000 miles. Trucks
that are consistently overloaded or that frequently tow heavy loads can
also have problems with relatively new clutches.
The most common problem with clutches is that the friction material
on the disc wears out. The friction material on a clutch disc is very similar
to the friction material on the pads of a disc brake or the shoes of a drum
brake -- after a while, it wears away. When most or all of the friction
material is gone, the clutch will start to slip, and eventually it won't
transmit any power from the engine to the wheels.
The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are
spinning at different speeds. When they are locked together, the friction
material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin in sync. It's only
when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs.
So, if you are the type of driver who slips the clutch a lot, you'll wear out
your clutch a lot faster.
Sometimes the problem is not with slipping, but with sticking. If your
clutch won't release properly, it will continue to turn the input shaft. This
can cause grinding, or completely prevent your car from going into gear.
Some common reasons a clutch may stick are:
 Broken or stretched clutch cable - The cable needs the right
amount of tension to push and pull effectively.
 Leaky or defective slave and/or master clutch cylinders -
Leaks keep the cylinders from building the necessary amount of
pressure.
 Air in the hydraulic line - Air affects the hydraulics by taking up
space the fluid needs to build pressure.
 Misadjusted linkage - When your foot hits the pedal, the linkage
transmits the wrong amount of force.
 Mismatched clutch components - Not all aftermarket parts work
with your clutch.
Date Developed: Document No.
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 A "hard" clutch is also a common problem. All clutches require some
amount of force to depress fully. If you have to press hard on the pedal,
there may be something wrong. Sticking or binding in the pedal linkage,
cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a
blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard
clutch.
Another problem associated with clutches is a worn throw-out bearing,
sometimes called a clutch release bearing. This bearing applies force to
the fingers of the spinning pressure plate to release the clutch. If you hear
a rumbling sound when the clutch engages, you might have a problem
with the throw-out.

GENERAL CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS AND SOLUTION

SYMPTOM:
Clutch drags. It won't release completely and the transmission
grinds when shifted
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Linkage out of adjustment or Adjust or repair linkage
binding
Release arm too long for the Determine the correct ratio (as
per instructions above) and
linkage system shorten the arm
Release arm stick out angle Change the length of the release
incorrect nearing, pivot or both, if necessary
Release arm hits bell housing Grind clearance as necessary on
opening preventing full travel of the the bell housing
arm
Engine is shifting on the motor Repair, rebuild or replace the
mounts, wasting linkage travel motor mounts as necessary
Pilot bushing binding on the input Replace the pilot bushing. Refer to
shaft. Possibly damaged at the bell housing alignment
installation or resulting from a procedure in the Novak guide
misaligned bell housing
Shorten the input shaft by
Input shaft pilot is "bottoming out" grinding or deepen the bore of the
in the crankshaft bore crank by drilling
Clutch disc hub is damaged or Replace the disc
assembled incorrectly
Replace the pressure plate
Pressure plate or cover is warped assembly
Excessive run-out at the face of the Check the crank flange for burrs
and remove them, or reface the
flywheel flywheel
Incorrect flywheel to crank hub Use the correct, special flywheel
bolts. The bolt heads are driving the bolts
disc
Clutch disc is installed backwards. Disassemble and turn the disc
The bolt heads are driving the disc around
Clutch disc is too large. The edge of Specify a smaller disc or turn
the disc is interfering with the down the edge of the existing unit
pressure plate assembly
Clutch arm to throw out bearing Replace throw out bearing if
retaining clip is tweaked on the damaged and reinstall the arm
Date Developed: Document No.
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 bearing lip (progressive worsening) and clips correctly
SYMPTOM:
Clutch Slippage
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Linkage out of adjustment or Adjust the linkage to create proper
binding amount of slack in the system
Release bearing is too long, holding Use a shorter release bearing. See
the clutch in a slightly disengaged the chart in the text
position
The friction surface on the flywheel, Resurfacing and replacement of
pressure plate or disk is glazed clutch assembly
(usually from heat)
Use a larger clutch or a heavier
The clutch is too small and/or the spring. The former is often
spring load is too light preferable. Extreme cases may
require both
Repair the oil leak (typically the
engine rear main or oil pan if not
Oil on the clutch disc the transmission from seal) and
replace the disc
Broken or fatigued springs Replace the pressure plate
SYMPTOM:
Clutch chatters when engaging
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Damper springs in the clutch disc
hub or the marcel spring between Replace the clutch disc
the facings is fatigued
Friction surface on the flywheel or
pressure plate is glazed from the Resurface or replace as necessary
heat
Clutch disc is running out on the Replace the clutch disc
input gear (hub problem)
The flywheel or pressure plate Reface or replace as required
surface is running out
Repair the oil leak (typically the
engine rear main or oil pan if not
Oil on friction surfaces the transmission from seal) and
replace the disc. Avoid parts
contamination upon reassembly
Inspect the linkage, paying special
attention to the holes in each lobe.
Linkage works erratically Repair or change the linkage as
required
Play in the motor mounts allowing
for shifting of the powertrain, Change or repair the motor mounts
relative to the linkage
SYMPTOM:
Pedal pulsates when pushed to floor (3-finger coil spring type
only)
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Clutch is over-releasing and the Reduce linkage travel (see above
release fingers are hitting the disc text)
hub damper springs

Date Developed: Document No.

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SYMPTOM:
Pedal pulsates at start of release
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Check for burrs on clutch and
Flywheel run-out flywheel mounting flanges
If a three-finger type, fingers may Have the pressure plate readjusted
by a rebuilder or replace the
not all be the same height pressure plate
Replace the retainer or on
Excessive clearance between mismatched parts, sleeve retainer
release bearing and retainer up to the release bearing size, plus
slip fit
SYMPTOM:
Noise. Clicking or rattling at idle RPM with the pedal released
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Broken spring(s) Replace the pressure plate
Symptom:
Noise. Whirring or grinding when clutch is released (pedal
depressed)
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Failing clutch release bearing Replace
Symptom:
Noise. Chattering or "buzzing" when clutch is released
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Excessive pilot bushing to input Replace pilot bushing. Clearance
gear clearance. Often resultant of should be .001 to .004
bellhousing misalignment
SYMPTOM:
Pedal is hard to push and hold down
POSSIBLE DIAGNOSIS LIKELY SOLUTION
Improperly set-up linkage system Change as required (see text)
Reduce spring load, or, if high
pressure clutch is required then
load modify the linkage to give the
Pressure plate spring minimum travel that will still
excessive for linkage release (i.e., provide the
required .025 air gap) and leave a
finger clearance of 1/16"
SELF CHECK 7.1-2
Identification: Given the following statement describe thereto, identify
what is being ask for:

_____________________1. This is a type of clutch problem when the driven

disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving member when the
clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch
pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel.
Date Developed: Document No.
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____________________2. This a type of clutch problem that produce a very
severe vibration or jerking motion when the vehicle is accelerated from a
standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will
seem like the clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down.

_____________________3. This is a type of clutch problem that will make the

transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or shift gears. This
condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage
from the flywheel or pressure plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. As
a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and
attempts to drive the transmission.

____________________4. This type of clutch problem is caused by the run

out (wobble or vibration) of one of the rotating members of the clutch
assembly. A series of slight movements can be felt on the clutch pedal.
These pulsations are noticeable when light foot pressure is applied.

___________________5. This can let the transmission input shaft and clutch
disc vibrate up and down, causing an unusual noise.

ANSWER KEY 7.1-2

1. Slipping

2. Grabbing

3. Dragging

Date Developed: Document No.

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 4. Pedal Pulsation

5. Worn Pilot Bearing

TASK SHEET 7.1-1

TITLE: DIAGNOSE CLUTCH FAILURE/PROBLEM
Performance Objective:

Given readings on the information sheets, videos, and specific

instructions on manufacturer’s manuals, using specified tools and
equipment, you should be able to:
1. Identify a clutch that is engaging/disengaging at engine and
transmission smoothly.
2. Complete work in accordance with company standard operating
Date Developed: Document No.
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procedures.

Date Developed: Document No.

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Supplies/Materials

Manufacturer’s Manuals
Clutch Components and Spare Parts
Brake Cleaner

Date Developed: Document No.

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Equipment
Light Duty vehicle
Basic Hand tools & clutch special tool
Floor Jack 2tons (optional=car ramp)
2pcs. Car Stand

Date Developed: Document No.

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 Steps/Procedure:

1. Prepare the vehicle for test drive in a secure/safe area.

2. To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake
and start the engine.
3. Place the transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then
try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the
clutch pedal.
4. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run,
even with the clutch pedal fully released.
5. Partial clutch slippage could let the engine run
momentarily before stalling.
6. Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two.
The extreme heat generated by slippage will damage
the flywheel and pressure plate faces.
Assessment Method:

Practical demonstration
Direct observation

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 7.1-1

YE N
DID I?
S O
Identify whether a clutch engage/disengage from the engine
and transmission smoothly.

Diagnose problem if clutch pedal goes to floorboard when

depressed

Diagnose problem if clutch slip when engaged

Diagnose problem if clutch spine or drags while engaged

Diagnose problem if clutch chatters or grabs while being

engaged

Diagnose problem if clutch related vibration

Diagnose problem if clutch area noises

Date Developed: Document No.
Issued by:
Diagnose problem ifAutomotive
clutch pedal pulsation
December 6, 2021
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Does the work completed in accordanceJELBES with company
S. BAYAWA
standard operating procedures and manufacturer’s Revision # 01
specification, manuals using specified tools and equipment?
 LO2. PULL OUT AND MOUNT CLUTCH
COMPONENT PARTS

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Dismounting procedure follows repair manual.
2. Bolts are tightened following correct torque, sequence and
pattern
3. Work is completed without causing damage to vehicle or
workplace property and equipment.

CONTENTS:
 Dismounting and mounting procedures
 Bolt tightening sequence and pattern, and correct torque
 Handling of special tools for dismounting & mounting
 Precaution in handling hydraulic fluids and special tools
 Apply personal safety procedures

CONDITIONS:
Students/trainees must be provided with the following:

 Hydraulic lifters/mechanical lifters

 Support stand
 Transmission jack
 Basic hand tools
 Manuals
 Light duty vehicle

METHODOLOGIES:
 Interactive discussion
 Self-paced instruction
 Dual training

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Interview
 Written examination
 Practical demonstration
 Direct observation

Date Developed: Document No.

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 LEARNING EXPERIENCES
LEARNING OUTCOME 2
LO TITLE: Pull Out and Mount Clutch Component
Parts
LEARNING ACTIVITIES SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS

Read Information Sheet No.

1.2-1
Read Information Sheet No. Read and understand the
1.2-2 information sheet and Check
Read Information Sheet No. yourself by answering the Self
1.2-3 Check. You must answer all
Read Information Sheet No. question correctly before
1.2-4 proceeding to the next activity.
Read Information Sheet No.
1.2-5
Task Sheets will help you
practice your skills.
You may refer to your Training
Activity Matrix for Automotive
Servicing NC II.
The Performance Criteria
Checklist will guide and help
you evaluate your work as you
are practicing your skill.
Evaluate your own work using
Perform Task Sheet No. 1.2-1
the Performance Criteria.
When you are ready, present
your work to your trainer for
final evaluation and recording.
If you have questions about the
use of the matrix please ask
your trainer.
After doing all activities of this
LO, you are ready to proceed to
the next LO on dismantle/install
clutch mechanism.

Date Developed: Document No.

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 INFORMATION SHEET 7.2-1
(CLUTCH PROPER DISMOUNTING AND
MOUNTING PROCEDURES)

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to perform
the proper procedure in dismounting and mounting clutch of a vehicle.

PREPARATION PRIOR START OF DISMOUNTING:

You need these minimal hand tools and other wrenches to do a
clutch job.
All socket drive extensions and a universal drive pictured are needed. Do
not proceed if any one of these tools or a good substitute is not in your
tool box, you would only be greatly frustrated.
Be warned! Use only 6-point sockets for 14mm, 17mm and 19mm bolts
on the bell housing, flywheel, exhaust downpipe and any other tough bolts
and nuts to minimize rounding them. Before removing the gearbox,
disconnect all wirings at the top. The wirings are held on the top by bent
clips. Also remove the speedo cable and tie it away with a piece of wire.

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF A CLUTCH REPLACEMENT?

The action of pushing the clutch pedal is transferred either through

mechanical linkage or hydraulic lines to a part inside the transmission
called a “throw-out bearing." This pushes the throw-out bearing against
the actuating tines/forks on the pressure plate, which causes the pressure
plate to release the clutch disc. This removes engine torque from the
transmission, allowing the gears inside the transmission to synchronize
(line up) so you can shift without that horrendous gear-grinding noise.

Date Developed: Document No.

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*Note that every vehicle will differ on this repair and you should always
consult your repair manual first before attempting a clutch replacement.

PROCEDURES:
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the shifter boot and
lever inside the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle. While it is
not necessary to raise the rear wheels off the ground, doing so will make
working under the vehicle easier and more comfortable when using a jack
and jack stands.

2. Place a drain pan under the transmission. Remove the drain plug and
drain transmission fluid so that it will not leak out tail shaft when
removing transmission. Slide under the rear of the vehicle and remove the
bolts securing the driveshaft to the differential. Some vehicles such as
trucks will have a support in the middle of the driveshaft that has to come
out before the driveshaft can be removed.

Tip: You will have to remove part of the

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exhaust on vehicles with dual exhaust. This may also require you to
disconnect/remove one or more O2 sensors first.

3.Remove the driveshaft from the transmission and lower out of the car.
On some vehicles, this is accomplished simply by pulling the driveshaft to
the rear of the vehicle. On other vehicles, especially larger pickups and
performance cars, there are four bolts that must be removed to
accomplish this. Handle the driveshaft very carefully—even a tiny dent
can put it out of balance.

4. Disconnect all hoses, pipes, and wiring connectors from the

transmission (and transfer case if so equipped). This will include cooling
lines on some vehicles.

5. Disconnect the clutch linkage on vehicles equipped with mechanical

linkage. On vehicles with hydraulic clutches, unbolt the slave cylinder
from the back of the block or the transmission, depending where it's
mounted. Disconnect the clutch fork from the slave cylinder piston. You
may be able to simply pull the two apart on some vehicles, while others
will have a spring clip that must be pulled apart by hand prior to
separating the fork from the piston.

6. The next two steps are unique to four-wheel- (4WD) and all-wheel-drive
(AWD) vehicles only. If your vehicle is only rear-wheel-drive (RWD), skip to
Step 7. Remove the front driveshaft between the transfer case and front
differential. This is a good time to check the U-joints for wear and sticking.

Date Developed: Document No.

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7. Using a transmission jack or jack adapter and the appropriate sockets
and wrenches, separate the transfer case from the transmission and lower
it out of the vehicle. Next, remove the mounting bolts from the transfer
case and separate it from the back of the transmission and lower it out of
the vehicle.

8. Place the jack under the transmission and raise the jack until it just
picks up the transmission's load without raising it. Secure the jack to the
transmission using tie-down straps. Remove the transmission support. On
most vehicles, this will be a cross member while on some other cars, it will
be a torque strut running from the transmission along the frame to the
differential (See image above). Some people say this can be done after
the bolts holding the transmission to the engine are removed.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 36
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
9. Go around the transmission one more time to make sure all wires,
hoses, linkages, etc. are removed/disconnected and free of the
transmission.

10. Jack the transmission up an inch or two and slide a block of wood
between the front cross member and the oil pan. Lower the jack until the
block of wood takes the engine's weight. The rear of the engine is
supported by the transmission and this will prevent the engine from
rocking back and down when you remove the transmission.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 37
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
11. Remove the two or three bolts securing the starter to the engine
and/or transmission bellhousing. Use a piece of wire to support the starter
so no weight is taken by the wires. Remove the five to nine bolts/nuts
securing the transmission to the engine.

12. Here's where it gets interesting. Separate the transmission from the
engine by prying the two apart or by wiggling the transmission back and
forth while pushing/pulling toward the rear of the vehicle. Once the two
are separated, keep pushing the transmission to the rear until the input
shaft clears the clutch assembly. Lower the transmission out of the car
and push to the rear.

13. Using a wrench or ratchet and socket (usually 1/2-inch to 5/8-inch),

remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel. Be careful
here because the pressure plate can be surprisingly heavy for its size,
especially on bigger vehicles. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.

Date Developed: Document No.

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14 Inspect the flywheel. If the wear does not include grooves from metal-
to-metal contact or bad burning/bluing (see image above), you can
resurface it using a drill with a small (2-inch or so) sanding pad with 600-
plus grit paper. Otherwise, you will need to have it professionally
resurfaced or replace it if it is really bad. It's easy to damage the flywheel,
so check your manual before undertaking this task.

15. Remove the pilot bearing from the center of the crank/flywheel using a
pilot-bearing removal tool.
16. Lube the sides of the new pilot bearing and push it into position. Using
a large socket or a driver tool and hammer, drive the bearing in until it is
flush with the crank/flywheel.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 39
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
17. Slide the installation tool/adapter into the splined center of the clutch
disc, paying attention the “Flywheel Side" label on one side. Slide the nose
of the tool into the center of the pilot bearing until it bottoms out, and
slide the pressure plate into place. There will be between two and four
pins on the flywheel that will help you properly position the pressure
plate.

18. Install the nuts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel by hand.
Using a star pattern, slowly tighten the nuts in stages while making sure
the installation tool wiggles freely. If not, loosen the nuts enough to free
the clutch disc and start over. Torque the nuts to the proper spec.
19. Replace the throw-out bearing. On older cars, this simply means
popping the clutch fork out of the ball stud and removing the bearing from
the clutch fork (see image below). Installation is reversing the removal
process.

20. Pull the clutch installation tool out and raise the transmission back into
place. Don't force the transmission into place. If it doesn't easily slide in to
Date Developed: Document No.
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Revision # 01
almost contact with the engine, something isn't lined up right. You may
need to put the transmission into gear and turn it a little. You may also
need to roll it to line the alignment pins up.

21. Reverse the removal process, installing the transmission-to-engine

bolts first and working toward the rear. Reconnect any vent tubes, cooling
lines, speedometer cables, and any wiring connectors and shift linkages.
Refill transmission with proper fluid. Reinstall the driveshaft(s) and
transfer case.

22. Give everything a once-over and make sure everything is connected

and tight. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid.

23. Adjust the clutch. This will entail getting under the vehicle with a
wrench or two on vehicles with mechanical linkage. With most
hydraulically actuated clutches, adjustment is carried out by pumping and
manually lifting the pedal a few times. Make sure the master gets topped-
off also. What you're looking for is about an inch of pedal travel before
engagement begins/resistance is felt.

24. Lower the vehicle and take it for a test drive. Don't hammer it. A new
clutch needs to break in slowly over a period of about 100 miles.
Be sure to use the used-oil-recycling program to dispose of any fluids after
completing the clutch replacement.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 41
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 SELF CHECK 7.2-1

Identification: Given the statement describe thereto, identify what is

being ask for.

_______________1. What is the reason why we need to use only 6-point

sockets for bolts on the bell housing, flywheel, exhaust downpipe and any
other tough bolts and nuts?

_______________2. What is the first procedure to be done when

dismounting clutch to prevent possible cranking of engine and other
possible electrical problems to occur?

_______________3. What is the equipment that is use to raise the vehicle

from floor?

_______________4. What material is used to resurface the flywheel when

scratch is not too deep?

_______________5. What to do before installing pilot bearing?

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 42
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 ANSWER KEY 7.2-1

1. To avoid rounding the nut and bolts

2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery

3. Floor Jack

4. Sand paper

5. Lubricate

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 43
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 INFORMATION SHEET 7.2-2
(CLUTCH BOLT TIGHTENING AND SEQUENCE
PATTERN AND CORRECT TORQUE)

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to perform
the correct torque in clutch bolt tightening and its sequence pattern.
In this illustration, you will see the Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate
removal and installation, then you will see on the notes the clutch bolts
tightening sequence and correct torque.

Figure 1: Remove the inspection

plug to view the clutch assembly
components

Figure 2: View of the clutch

assembly with the transmission
removed

Date Developed: Document No.

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Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 44
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Figure 3: Always use a clutch pilot tool during removal or installation of
the clutch assembly

Figure 4: Using a holding tool,

hold the drive plate and remove
the clutch pressure plate-to-drive
plate bolts

Figurec5: When removing the

pressure plate be careful not to
allow the fiction disc to drop

Figure 6: Examine the drive plate

for cracks, heat spots and scoring

Date Developed: Document No.

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Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 45
JELBES S. BAYAWA
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Figure 7: Using a holding tool, hold the drive plate and remove the drive
plate bolts

Figure 8: Exercise extreme care

when removing the drive plate, it is
heavy

Figure 9: View of the rear engine

section with the drive plate
removed

Figure 10: Use a torque wrench to

tighten the drive plate bolts in a
crisscross pattern following the
torque measurement specification
in the vehicle’s manual.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
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Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 46
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Figure 11: With the clutch pilot tool in place, use a torque wrench to
tighten the pressure plate-to-drive plate bolts

CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to
be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed
air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch
surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

On gasoline engine models, except the 7.5L engine, remove the

starter. Remove the flywheel housing attaching bolts and remove the
housing. On diesel engine models and the 7.5L gasoline engine, remove
the cover and then remove the release lever and bearing from the clutch
housing.

TO REMOVE:
1.Remove the dust boot.
2.Push the release lever forward to compress the slave cylinder.
3.Remove the slave cylinder by prying on the steel clip to free the tangs
while pulling the cylinder clear.
4.Remove the release lever by pulling it outward.
5.Mark the pressure plate and cover assembly and the flywheel so that
they can be reinstalled in the same relative position.
6.Loosen the pressure plate and cover attaching bolts evenly in a
staggered sequence a turn at time until the pressure plate springs are
relieved of their tension. Remove the attaching bolts.
7.Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc from
the flywheel.

TO INSTALL:
1.Position the clutch disc on the flywheel so that an aligning tool or spare
transmission main shaft can enter the clutch pilot bearing and align the
disc.
*When reinstalling the original pressure plate and cover assembly, align
the assembly and flywheel according to the marks made during removal.
Position the pressure plate and cover assembly on the flywheel, align the
pressure plate and disc, and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in
an alternating sequence a few turns at a time until the proper torque is
reached:
10 in. and 12 in. clutch: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)11 in. clutch: 20-29 ft.
lbs. (27-39 Nm)
2.Remove the tool used to align the clutch disc.
3.With the clutch fully released, apply a light coat of grease on the sides
of the driving lugs.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 47
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
4.Position the clutch release bearing and the bearing hub on the release
lever. 5.Install the release lever on the fulcrum in the flywheel housing.
Apply a light coating of grease to the release lever fingers and the
fulcrum. Fill the groove of the release bearing hub with grease.
If the flywheel housing has been removed, position it against the rear
engine cover plate and install the attaching bolts and tighten them to 40-
50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
6.Install the starter motor, if removed.
7.Install the transmission.
8.Install the salve cylinder and bleed the system.

SELF CHECK 7.2-2

Identification: Given the statement describe thereto, identify what is

being ask for.

__________________1. What is the tightening pattern applied to drive plate

bolts?

__________________2. The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has

been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch
surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch
surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, what to use?
__________________3. What is the correct tool to be used in tightening bolts
and setting torque measurements?
__________________4. What tool is used in removing and installing the
clutch assembly?
__________________5. What is the proper torque applied for pressure plate
bolts in a 11” clutch?

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 48
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 ANSWER KEY 7.2-2

1. Crisscross tightening pattern

2. Brake cleaning fluid

3. Torque wrench

4. Clutch pilot tool/clutch aligner tool

5. 20-29ft-lbs (27-39 Nm)

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 49
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 INFORMATION SHEET 7.2-3
(HANDLING SPECIAL TOOLS FOR CLUTCH
DISMOUNTING AND MOUNTING)

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to practice
how to handle special tools for clutch dismounting and mounting.

This Information deals with e46's Self Adjusting Clutch which uses Special
Tools for dismounting as according to Bentley Manual.

The SAC works by having a rotary plate inside the cover plate
assembly that is pushed clockwise by springs. As the clutch wears, this
rotary plate slowly moves clockwise to take up the wear. The new clutches
come with this SAC pre-reset in the anti-clockwise position with a shipping
plate. But if you want to refit an existing clutch you need to reset it.

To reset the SAC, you will need a large 3 legged bearing puller as
in the picture. Before the SAC can be reset the diaphragm spring must be
compressed. Make a cylindrical block on a lathe which just sits inside the
spring fingers. If you do not have a lathe, some improvisation could be
done.

1. Insert the puller as shown & compress the

spring. Note that the silver SAC plate
underneath can be freely moved now

Date Developed: Document No.

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 2. Fit the clutch disc on to the flywheel with
the normal centering tool.

3. With the spring still compressed (puller

attached) fit the cover plate to the flywheel
& tighten all the cover bolts.

4. Using a screwdriver or similar, rotate the

silver SAC plate fully anti-clockwise. Note
there are alignment marks near the small
springs to show this.

5. Keep the SAC plate in the anti-clockwise position with the screwdriver
while removing the pressure on the diaphragm spring, and remove the
puller.

6. Remove the centering tool.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 51
JELBES S. BAYAWA
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 SELF CHECK 7.2-3

Identification: Given the statement describe thereto, identify what is

being ask for.

__________________1. What is the tool use to reset the Self Adjusting Clutch
(SAC)?

_________________2. Why it is necessary to compress the Pressure Plate

spring to reset the clutch?

________________ 3. What direction to move the SAC plate in resetting?

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 52
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 ANSWER KEY 7.2-3

1. Three legged Puller

2. For the SAC plate to move freely

3. Anti-clockwise

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 53
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 INFORMATION SHEET 7.2-4
(PRECAUTION IN HANDLING HYDRAULIC
FLUID AND SPECIAL TOOLS)
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to practice
precaution in handling hydraulic fluid and special tools.

PRECAUTIONS AND PREPARATION

PRECAUTIONS
· Recommended fluid is brake fluid “DOT 4”.
· Do not reuse drained brake fluid.
· Be careful not to splash brake fluid on
painted areas.
· When removing and installing clutch
piping, use Tool.
· To clean or wash all parts of master
cylinder, operating cylinder and clutch
damper, use clean brake fluid.
· Never use mineral oils such as gasoline or
kerosene. It will ruin the rubber parts of the
hydraulic system.
WARNING:
Remove all dust from clutch disc with a dust
collector after cleaning with waste cloth.
SBR820B

PREPARATION

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS

*Special tool or commercial equivalent
Date Developed: Document No.
Issued by:
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 Tool number Tool
Description
name
ST20050010 Base plateInspecting diaphragm spring of clutch cover
ST20050100 Distance
Inspecting diaphragm spring of clutch cover
piece
GG94310000
Flare nut torque Removing and installing each clutch piping
wrench
KV30100100* Clutch
Installing clutch cover and clutch disc
aligning bar
ST20050240*
Adjusting unevenness of diaphragm spring of
Diaphragm spring
clutch cover
adjusting wrench
SELF CHECK 7.2-4

Identification: Given the statement describe thereto, identify what is

being asked for.

__________________ 1. What is the type of brake fluid to use in this

instruction?

__________________ 2. This is a special tool for installing clutch cover and

clutch disc.

__________________3. This is a special tool in adjusting unevenness of

diaphragm spring of clutch cover.

_________________ 4. Tools in removing and installing each clutch piping

_________________ 5. What is use to clean or wash all parts of master

cylinder, operating cylinder and clutch damper?

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 55
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 ANSWER KEY 7.2-4

1. DOT 4

2. Clutch Aligning Bar

3. Diaphragm spring adjusting wrench

4. Flare nut torque wrench

5. Clean Brake Fluid

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 56
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 INFORMATION SHEET 7.2-5
(APPLY PERSONAL SAFETY PROCEDURES)

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to apply
personal safety procedures.

INTRODUCTION
Auto mechanic safety should not be neglected in any mechanic shop
or even at home in the garage. Many injuries related to working on cars
from tools or general accidents can be avoided if the right precautions are
taken. Within this article, a few of the best tips will be given with regards
to safety for auto mechanics. This will help to avoid any personal injury.

SAFETY AROUND THE CAR

As far as the car is concerned, safe practices to do are as follows;
1. It should always have the handbrake on as well as the gearshift in
the park position. It is easy for a car to roll and may roll with your
underneath it.
2. It is always a good idea to have chock blocks in front of the wheels
to prevent movement as well. If you have to have the car running
while you work, then ensure that the parking brake is on since you
can't have the gearshift in park.
3. Do not smoke while you are working on a car, the smoke may go
into your eyes blinding you for a short time or it may ignite
flammable substances such as gas.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 57
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 4. Take off any jewelry such as rings and watches before starting any
work on the car to avoid damage to the jewelry or arcing off the
battery.

Working with Electronics on a Vehicle

As most tools are metallic and electricity will travel along conductive
materials such as steel, you need to use insulated or rubber coated tools
when you work on any electrical components of a car. The electric shock
that you can experience from the car can be enough to cause damage to
the body.
Must Have Auto Repair Safety Gear

When it comes to working on cars there are many opportunities to

be injured. Luckily for do-it-yourself and professional mechanics
inexpensive auto repair safety protection devices are readily available. We
are going to focus on the three types of protection auto mechanic use
most. These are cost-effective solutions providing a lot of value.
Latex Mechanics Gloves
There's a big difference between latex and regular mechanics
gloves. The regular varieties are not disposable and made of a fabric or
leather material. These are most often used when grinding, working
around hot exhaust or welding. The latex gloves are stretchy tight fitting
gloves that become like a second skin.
The nice thing about these types of gloves is they can be purchased
in a variety of thickness and in nitrile for those with allergies. Specialized
mechanics grade nitrile disposable gloves are much thicker and hold up to
heavy duty operations without tearing. Although they can be chemical
resistant they are easily destroyed by harsher things like brake fluid or
carburetor cleaner.

Eye Protection for Auto Repairs

It's hard to find a more important area to protect then your eyes.
This is often a hard sell to younger mechanics for some reason. Often the
main objection to wearing these is comfort or the ability to see properly.

Safety glasses can fog up and hamper vision. This is because of the
temperature differential between the mechanic working hard and the
outside environment. The better vented the glasses are the less fogging is
experienced. They also make anti-fog spray for glasses that works quite
Date Developed: Document No.
Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
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Revision # 01
well. There are different levels of protection for different automotive repair
operations. The three most common would be a face shield, safety
goggles and lightweight glasses. Owning all three and wearing them at
the proper time is a necessity. If you obtain eye protection that is
comfortable you'll be more likely to wear it.

Ear Protection Devices

This is one of the overlooked safety devices that is not only
inexpensive but can also make a huge impact on the quality of life in an
auto mechanics golden years. Ear protection devices can range from
simple earplugs to noise canceling earmuffs. Both professional and do-it-
yourself auto mechanics are often exposed to damaging noise. Striking
something with a hammer or using air tools can produce extremely slow,
almost unnoticeable degradation in hearing abilities. These auto repair
safety devices are inexpensive.
The only other safety precaution that's more important is common
sense. If you stop and think about the operation you're about to perform
and identify the dangerous areas, you can put together a repair plan that
minimizes this risk. Therefore, professional mechanics often say the most
important protection device you have is your brain. Logical thinking goes
a long way to preventing injuries while working on cars.

SELF CHECK 7.2-5

Identification: Given the statement described thereto, identify what is

asked for.
___________________1. What safety measures to be done with the car to
avoid car to roll?
___________________2. When working with the car, removing jewelry will
prevent?
___________________3. This type of gloves used by automotive mechanic
are light, stretchy tight fitting gloves that become like your second skin.
This gloves pprevent chemicals and oils from being absorbed through the
skin. The other benefit is since they act like a second epidermis they
reduce the severity of knuckle busting incidents.

__________________ 4. What do you call the eye protection device for

mechanic?

__________________ 5. What do you call the ear protection device for

mechanic?

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 59
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01
 ANSWER KEY 7.2-5

1. Apply parking brake and put the gearshift to Park position

2. Accidental arcing off the battery which will cause grounding and

damage to jewelry.

3. Latex type gloves

4. Safety Glasses

5. Ear Plug

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 60
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Revision # 01
 TASK SHEET 7.2-1
TITLE: PULL OUT AND MOUNT CLUTCH COMPONENT
PARTS
Performance Objective:

Given readings on the information sheets, videos, and specific

instructions on manufacturer’s manuals, using specified tools and
equipment, you should be able to;
1.Dismount clutch
2.Replace damage parts
3.Mount clutch
Supplies/Materials

Manufacturer’s Manuals
Clutch Components and Spare Parts
Brake Cleaner
Equipment
Light Duty vehicle
Basic Hand tools & clutch special tool
Floor Jack 2tons (optional=car ramp)
2pcs. Car Stand
Date Developed: Document No.
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Steps/Procedure:

1. Dismount procedure in accordance with the manufacturer’s repair

manual.

2. Tighten the bolts in accordance with the correct torque, sequence

and pattern as specified in the manufacture’s repair manual.

3. Handle special tools for dismounting and mounting are used

correctly.

4. Take precaution in handling hydraulic fluids an special tools are to

be observed.

5. Apply personal safety procedures when servicing clutch

mechanism.

6. Complete work without causing damage to vehicle or workplace

property and equipment.

Assessment Method:
Practical demonstration
Direct observation
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 7.2-1

DID I? YES NO
Dismount procedure in accordance with the manufacturer’s
repair manual.

Tightened the bolts in accordance with the correct torque,

sequence and pattern as specified in the manufacturer’s
repair manual.

Handle of special tools for dismounting & mounting are used

correctly
Take precaution in handling hydraulic fluids and special tools
are observed

Apply personal safety procedures when servicing clutch

mechanism

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
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Completed work without causing damage to vehicle or
workplace property and equipment.

Date Developed: Document No.

Issued by:
December 6, 2021
Automotive
Servicing NC II Developed by: Page 63
JELBES S. BAYAWA
Revision # 01