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copyright 2024 by Red Mill’s Croche

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Aramis the Pegasus

A Crochet Pattern by Red Mill’s Crochet
Intermediate-Advanced
 Pattern Tester Appreciation

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For this you'll need: Supplies
A 4.0mm hook (or your preference)
Big Twist Baby Bear Yarn or Posh yarn in whatever colors please
you! Color A: main, Color B: hooves/horn, Color C: curl color 1,
Color D: curl color 2
Fiber Fill Stuffing
Sinker eyes (I used 25mm)
A yarn needle

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Scissors
Stitch markers
Optional: Weighted polyfil beads
**You can honestly use whatever hook and yarn combo your heart
desires, the above are just what I used for my project**

CH: Chain
Terms to Know
Rnd or R#: Round
SC: Single Crochet
INC: Increase (2 in a stitch)
INC the RND: Increase every stitch in the Round
DEC: Decrease
MR: Magic Ring
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
TR: Triple (treble) crochet
HDC-INC: Half Double Crochet Increase
DC-INC: Double Crochet Increase
SLST: Slip Stitch
TW: Turn Work
BO: Bobble Stitch (3 pull throughs for this pattern)
** This pattern is worked in continuous rounds or with a
SLST between rounds, and you can start with a MR or the
chain 2 method, artist's preference :)
 Helpful diagrams and pictures for the legs
and body for you visual learners out there!
outer stitches to work as the body

unworked stitches that should be left

until it’s time to stuff and close the body

13sc
13sc

1 2

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12 total
unworked

4 3
13sc
13sc

Listen, the next page is only confusing if you let it be. Read through
it first and then start so you have a better understanding of where
things are going.

If you don’t actually read the directions

and just skippideedoo through the pattern
like a silly goose.
you me
Legs
worked in rounds, color B, make 4
R1: ch.2, 8sc into 1st chain [8]
R2: inc the rnd [16]
R3-R4: 16sc around CC in last stitch of 4th leg to Color A [2rnds of 16sc]
Round 5: Connecting Round
-Fasten off the first 3 legs, but don’t cut your working yarn from the 4th
leg.
-With your working yarn, join the 1st leg to the current leg with a sc, place a
stitch marker, and 12sc
-Repeat that process until you’re back at the 4th leg, make sure you count 3
stitches from the first join and 13sc, this will count as round 5.
-You should be back at the stitch marker now.

**There should now be 3 unworked stitches left in the center from each leg
(12 center stitches, this will come back into play later in the game I`m
playing with you to test your patience)

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Body Worked in rounds, color A
-You should now have a new starting round with a total of 52 stitches.
I highly recommend you use a stitch marker here to keep track of where your
rounds begin.
R6-R9: 52sc around [4rnds]
R10: 3sc, dec, (2sc, dec)x11, 3sc [40]
R11-R12: 40sc around [2rnds of 40sc]
R13: (2sc, dec)x10 [30]
R14: (sc, dec)x10 [20]
R15: 10dec [10]

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Fasten off and close this hole.
Leave a long tail to help fasten on the head

Start stuffing the body from the center hole in the belly.
-Flip to the bottom and reconnect in one of the stitches here. You will have
16 unworked stitches (including each stitch between each leg, 12+4=16)
R1: (2sc, dec)x4 [12]
R2: (sc, dec)x4 [8]
-Fasten off and close the hole.
-Leave a long tail for sewing. May have a couple of holes,
just use your extra yarn to sew them closed.

*Fun Tip*
Use a small bag of
polyfil beads or
something similar to
weigh down the body
to keep it from tipping
over once the head is
sewn on.
 Diagram to help with starting the head.
start in this chain
4 3 2 1
5,6 SC SC SC SC your starting
turn your INC INC chain of 6.
work
SC SC SC SC 11,12
7 8 9 10

Head worked in rounds, color A.

R1: chain 6, (start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 4sc, inc in the last chain,

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TW, 4sc, inc in the last chain [12]
R2: inc the rnd [24]
Tip for Eye Placement:
R3-R5: 24sc around 3rnds [24] make sure to place a stitch
R6: (inc, sc)x6, 12sc [30] marker on the 16th stitch of
rnd 8 to find the center of
R7: (2sc, inc)x3, (inc, 2sc)x3, 12sc [36] the snout.
R8: (3sc, inc)x3, (inc, 3sc)x3, 12sc [42]
R9-R13: 42sc around 5rnds [42]
R14: (5sc, dec)x6 [36]
Insert the safety eyes between
R15: 36sc around [36] rnds 8&9 approx. 10 stitches
R16: (4sc, dec)x6 [30] apart and each above the
increases for the cheeks.
R17: (3sc, dec)x6 [24]
start stuffing and shaping
R18: (2sc, dec)x6 [18]
R20: (sc, dec)x6 [12]
F/0 and leave a long tail for sewing
Finish stuffing / shaping
Close the hole using the front loops of rnd 20
Ears worked in rounds, make 2 in color A
R1: ch.2, 4sc into 1st chain [4]
R2: (inc, sc)x2 [6]
R3: 6sc around [6]
R4: (inc, sc)x3 [9]
R5: (2sc, inc)x3 [12]
R6: (sc, inc)x6 [18]
R7-R9: 18sc around 3rnds [18]
R10: dec the rnd [9]
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing
**Don’t stuff the ears!**

Wings worked in rows, make 2.

Row1: Chain 10, start in the second chain from the hook, 3 slst, sc, 5hdc, ch.1, TW
Row2: 5sc, ch.3, TW
Row3: slst in 2nd ch. from hook, sc, 4hdc, hdc-inc, ch.1, TW
Row4: 5sc, ch.3, TW
Row5: slst in 2nd ch. from hook, sc, 4hdc, hdc-inc, ch.1
rotate to work to the top, 2dec along the top back towards the tail
to get to the end.
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

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Here we are ready to And here we are all
do the top of our wing! done with the top.
Don’t worry about You can see the
exact placement, we’re sloping shape as
just trying to get those we worked our
stitches in there for way to the
some shaping. beginning
Short Hair Curls
worked in rows make 3 in curl colors
Chain 11, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2sc in each chain

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F/O and leave a tail to secure to the head

Medium Hair Curls

worked in rows make 3 in curl colors
Chain 21, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2sc in each chain
F/O and leave a tail to secure to the head

Long Hair Curls

worked in rows make 3 in curl colors
Chain 31, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 3sc in each chain
F/O and leave a tail to secure to the head

Tail Curls
worked in rows make 3 in curl colors
Chain 13, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2sc in each chain
F/O and leave a tail to secure to the head
 Assembly

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Head to Body
Use the sewing-stix to help keep the head
in place.
Place the head on any side of the body and
center it .
Sew the head on by using all of the
stitches that are naturally touching the
body and make sure you get down into the
body layer of stitches to make sure it is
secure.

Ears to Head
Use sewing-stix to help you if needed.
fold the ears in a “U” shape and set
them 2-3 rounds behind the eyes
You may want to sew both sides of the
ears into the surrounding stitches for
sturdiness.

Wings to body
Place the wings just behind the head and
make sure they are centered to each other
on both sides
Use row 1 of the wing as your anchor to
attach the wings to the body.
I usually will weave in my ends, tie them
together, and then weave them in again for
extra security!
Short Curls to Head
Long Curls to Head
Medium Curls to Head

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Placement isn’t specific, sew all the
curls on where you feel they would look
best!
pics of mine are included here as
examples!

Tail Curls to Body

Placement isn’t specific sew all the
curls on the opposite end of the head,
centered between the legs and hanging
about a round above the hooves
 Final Look

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 Intellectual property of Red Mills Crochet

Thank you so much! If you post your pegasus, make sure to tag me!!
Cheers! - Millie

Congratulations on your beautiful creation!

Please feel free to sell any tangible good you crochet with this but do not redistribute this pattern in any way,
it is the intellectual property of Red Mills Crochet.