Routine Maintenance

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Engine
See Figures 1 and 2 Print
The eighth digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), located on a stamped plate attached to the left side of the instrument panel,
identifies the engine code. Engine serial numbers are also are also stamped on the engine block and consist of an engine series identification number,
followed by a seven digit production number.

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine identification number locations

Fig. Fig. 2: Engine Identification

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Transaxle
See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Print
The manual and automatic transaxle identification numbers are stamped into the top of the casing, on the clutch/torque converter housing
end of the transaxle.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Manual transaxle identification number location

Fig. Fig. 2: Automatic transaxle identification number

Fig. Fig. 3: Transmission Application Chart

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Vehicle
See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Print
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or serial number is a 17 digit format and is located on a stamped plate which is attached to the left
side of the instrument panel. This plate is visible through the windshield.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) location

Fig. Fig. 2: Explanation of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Fig. Fig. 3: Vehicle Identification Chart

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Engine Performance & Tune-up

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

CHECKING AND ADJUSTMENT

1985-88 VIN Code 4 Carbureted Engine Print
See Figure 1

This engine requires a special tachometer hook-up to the service connector wire coming out of the distributor. As many tachometers are not compatible
with this hook-up, we recommend that you consult with the manufacturer or salesman before purchasing a certain type.
 WARNING
NEVER allow the ignition coil terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter!

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Do not attempt to check timing or idle on a cold engine - all the readings will be different.
Connect a tachometer and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart at the
beginning of this Section. Adjust the idle if needed and shut the engine off.
2. If the timing marks are difficult to see, use a dab of paint or chalk to make them more visible.

Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition timing adjustment and mark location, 1985-88 VIN Code 4 carbureted Nova

3. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.

4. Label and disconnect the vacuum line(s) from the distributor vacuum unit. Plug it (them) with a pencil or golf tee(s).
5. Be sure that the timing light wires are clear of the fan and start the engine.
6. Allow the engine to run at the specified idle speed with the gearshift in Neutral.

CAUTION
Be sure that the parking brake is set and the wheels are blocked to prevent the car from rolling in either direction.

7. Point the timing light at the marks on the tab alongside the crank pulley. With the engine at idle, timing should be at the specification given on the
Tune-Up Specification Chart at the beginning of the section.
8. If the timing is not at the specification, loosen the bolts at the base of the distributor just enough so that the distributor can be turned. Turn the
distributor to advance or retard the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with the timing light, timing is correct.
9. Stop the engine and tighten the bolts. Start the engine and recheck the timing. Stop the engine; disconnect the tachometer and the timing light.
Connect the vacuum line(s) to the distributor vacuum unit.

1988 VIN Code 5 Engine - Fuel Injected Nova

See Figures 2 and 3

This engine requires a special tachometer hook-up to the service connector wire coming out of the distributor. As many tachometers are not compatible
with this hook-up, we recommend that you consult with the manufacturer or salesman before purchasing a certain type.

WARNING
NEVER allow the ignition coil terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter.

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Do not attempt to check timing or idle on a cold engine - all the readings will be different.
2. Using a small jumper wire, short both terminals of the Check Engine connector located near the wiper motor.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Jumper wire must be installed to check the timing on fuel injected Novas, 1988 VIN Code 5 engines

3. Connect a tachometer and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart at the
beginning of this section. Adjust the idle if needed and shut the engine OFF.
4. If the timing marks are difficult to see, use a dab of paint or chalk to make them more visible.
5. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.
6. Start the engine and use the timing light to observe the timing marks. With the jumper wire in the connector the timing should be 10° BTDC with
the engine fully warmed up and the transmission in Neutral. If the timing is not correct, loosen the bolts at the distributor just enough so that the
distributor can be turned. Turn the distributor to advance or retard the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with the timing
light, timing is correct.

Fig. Fig. 3: Ignition timing marks on the 1988 VIN Code 5 and all 1991-93 engines. Note the small notch on the pulley; this is the
mark to align with the degree scale

7. Without changing the position of the distributor, tighten the distributor bolts and double check the timing with the light.
8. Disconnect the jumper wire at the Check Engine connector.
9. Check the timing again with the light. Manual transmission cars should now show timing in excess of 16° BTDC and automatic transmission cars
more than 12° BTDC. If necessary, repeat the timing adjustment procedure.
10. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect all test equipment.

1989-92 VIN Code 6 Engine - Fuel Injected Prizm

See Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6

This engine requires a special tachometer hook-up to the service connector port on the left shock tower. As many tachometers are not compatible with
this hook-up, we recommend that you consult with the manufacturer or salesman before purchasing a certain type.

WARNING
NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter.
1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn all electrical accessories OFF.
2. Connect a tachometer and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart at the
beginning of this section. Adjust the idle if needed and shut the engine OFF.

Fig. Fig. 4: Checking the timing requires shorting the E1 and T terminals at the diagnostic connector, 1989-92 VIN Code 6 and 1990
VIN Code 5 engines - see text for details

3. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.

4. Remove the cap on the diagnostic connector. Using a small jumper wire, short terminals E1 and T together.
5. Start the engine and use the timing light to observe the timing marks. With the jumper wire in the connector, the timing should be at the
specification listed on the Vehicle Emissions Label located under the hood. If the timing is not correct, loosen the bolts at the distributor just enough
so that the distributor can be turned. Turn the distributor to advance or retard the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with
the timing light, timing is correct.
6. Without changing the position of the distributor, tighten the distributor bolts to 14 ft. lbs. and double check the timing with the light.
7. Remove the jumper wire from the diagnostic connector and reinstall the cap.
8. On 1989-90 VIN code 6 engines, disconnect the air control valve (ACV) connector at the intake manifold.

Fig. Fig. 5: Correct tachometer hook-up - 1989-92 Prizm

 Fig. Fig. 6: Use care when handling the air control valve wiring. The connector has a locking device which must be released before
removal

9. Recheck the timing; it should be 10° BTDC.

10. On 1989-90 VIN code 6 engines, reconnect the ACV connector.
11. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect all test equipment.

1991-92 VIN Code 5 and All 1993 Engines

See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7

This engine requires a special tachometer hook-up to the service connector port on the left shock tower. As many tachometers are not compatible with
this hook-up, we recommend that you consult with the manufacturer or salesman before purchasing a certain type.

WARNING
NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter.

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn all electrical accessories OFF.
2. Connect a tachometer and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart at the
beginning of this section. Adjust the idle if needed and shut the engine OFF.

Fig. Fig. 7: Checking the timing requires shorting the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic connector, 1991-92 VIN Code 5 and all
1993 engines - see text for details

3. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.

4. Remove the cap on the diagnostic connector. Using a fused jumper wire, connect terminals E1 and TE1 together.
5. Start the engine and use the timing light to observe the timing marks. With the jumper wire in the connector, the timing should be at the
 specification listed on the Vehicle Emissions Label located under the hood. If the timing is not correct, loosen the bolts at the distributor just enough
so that the distributor can be turned. Turn the distributor to advance or retard the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with
the timing light, timing is correct.
6. Without changing the position of the distributor, tighten the distributor bolts to 14 ft. lbs. and double check the timing with the light.
7. Remove the jumper wire from the diagnostic connector and reinstall the cap.
8. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect all test equipment.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

IGNITION TIMING
Ignition timing is the measurement (in degrees) of crankshaft position at the instant the spark plug fires. Ignition timing is adjusted by Print
loosening the distributor locking device and turning the distributor in the engine.

It takes a fraction of a second for the spark from the plug to completely ignite the mixture in the cylinder. Because of this, the spark plug must fire before
the piston reaches TDC (top dead center, the highest point in its travel), if the mixture is to be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC. This
measurement is given in degrees (of crankshaft rotation) before the piston reaches top dead center (BTDC). If the ignition timing setting for your engine
is seven degrees BTDC, this means that the spark plug must fire at a time when the piston for that cylinder is 7 degrees before top dead center of its
compression stroke. However, this only holds true while your engine is at idle speed.

As you accelerate from idle, the speed of your engine (rpm) increases. The increase in rpm means that the pistons are now traveling up and down much
faster. Because of this, the spark plugs will have to fire even sooner if the mixture is to be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC. To accomplish
this, the distributor incorporates means to advance the timing of the spark as the engine speed increases.

The distributor in your carbureted Nova has two means of advancing the ignition timing. One is called centrifugal advance and is actuated by weights in
the distributor. The other is called vacuum advance and is controlled by the large circular housing on the side of the distributor.

In addition, some distributors have a vacuum-retard mechanism which is contained in the same housing on the side of the distributor as the vacuum
advance. The function of this mechanism is to retard the timing of the ignition spark under certain engine conditions. The causes more complete burning
of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder and consequently lowers exhaust emissions.

Because these mechanisms change ignition timing, it is necessary to disconnect and plug the vacuum lines from the distributor when setting the basic
ignition timing.

The fuel injected Nova and all Prizm have neither a centrifugal advance nor a vacuum unit. All the timing changes are controlled electronically by the
ECM. This solid state brain receives data from many sensors (including the distributor), and commands changes in spark timing (and other functions)
based on immediate driving conditions. This instant response allows the engine to be kept at peak performance and economy throughout the driving
cycle. Basic timing can still be checked and adjusted on these engines.

If the ignition timing is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will try to force the piston down
while it is still traveling upward. This causes engine ping, a sound which resembles marbles being dropped into an empty tin can. If the ignition timing is
too far retarded (after, or ATDC), the piston will have already started down on the power stroke when the air/fuel mixture ignites and expands. This will
cause the piston to be forced down only a portion of its travel. This results in poor engine performance and lack of power.

Ignition timing adjustment is checked with a timing light. This instrument is connected to the number one (No. 1) spark plug wire. The timing light flashes
every time an electrical current is sent from the distributor through the No. 1 spark plug wire to the spark plug. The crankshaft pulley and the front cover
of the engine are marked with a timing pointer and a timing scale.

When the timing pointer is aligned with the 0 mark on the timing scale, the piston in the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of it compression stroke. With the engine
running, and the timing light aimed at the timing pointer and timing scale, the stroboscopic (periodic) flashes from the timing light will allow you to check
the ignition timing setting of the engine. The timing light flashes every time the spark plug in the No. 1 cylinder of the engine fires. Since the flash from
the timing light makes the crankshaft pulley seem to stand still for a moment, you will be able to read the exact position of the piston in the No. 1
cylinder on the timing scale on the front of the engine.

If you're buying a timing light, make sure the unit you select is rated for electronic or solid-state ignitions. Generally, these lights have two wires which
connect to the battery with alligator clips and a third wire which connects to no. 1 plug wire. The best lights have an inductive pick-up on the third wire;
this allows you to simply clip the small box over the wire. Older lights may require the removal of the plug wire and the installation of an inline adapter.
Since the spark plugs in the twin-cam engines (4A-GE and 4A-FE) are in deep wells, rigging the adapter can be difficult. Buy quality the first time and the
tool will give lasting results and ease of use.

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Engine & Engine Rebuilding

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Alternator
ALTERNATOR PRECAUTIONS Print

Several precautions must be observed with alternator equipped vehicles to

avoid damaging the unit. They are as follows:

1. If the battery is removed or disconnected for any reason, make sure that it is reconnected with the correct polarity. Reversing the battery
connections may result in damage to the one-way rectifiers.
2. When utilizing a booster battery as a starting aid, always connect it as follows: positive to positive, and negative (booster battery) to a good ground
on the engine of the car being started.
3. Never use a fast charger as a booster to start a car with an alternator.
4. When servicing the battery with a fast charger, always disconnect the car battery cables.
 5. Never attempt to polarize an alternator.
6. Never apply more than 12 volts when attempting to jump start the vehicle. Many road service vehicles use 2 batteries connected in series to
provide power - this 24 volt surge can destroy an electrical system instantly.
7. Do not use test lamps of more than 12 volts (V) for checking diode continuity.
8. Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the alternator.
9. The polarity of the battery, alternator, and regulator must be matched and considered before making any electrical connections within the system.
10. Never disconnect the alternator or the battery with the engine running.
11. Disconnect the battery terminals when performing any service on the electrical system. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental reversal of
polarity.
12. Disconnect the battery ground cable if arc welding (such as body repair) is to be done on any part of the car.

Noise from an alternator may be caused by a loose drive pulley, a loose belt, loose mounting bolts, worn or dirty bearings or worn internal parts. A high
frequency whine that is heard at high engine speed or full alternator output is acceptable and should not be considered a sign of alternator failure.

TESTING - ON VEHICLE INSPECTION

13. Inspect the battery specific gravity and electrolyte level. Check the specific gravity of each cell. The standard specific gravity of each cell is 1.25-
1.27 when fully charged at 68°F. On a Delco battery with a maintenance eye look for a GREEN DOT which means the battery is fully charged. The
DARK eye (GREEN DOT NOT VISIBLE) means the battery must be charged. The CLEAR or LIGHT YELLOW eye means replace the battery.
14. Make sure the battery terminals are not loose or corroded. Check the fusible link for continuity.
15. Inspect the drive belt for excessive wear. Check the drive belt tension. If necessary adjust the drive belt.
16. Check the following fuses for continuity: ENGINE, CHARGE, IGN fuses.
17. Visually check alternator wiring and listen for abnormal noises.
18. Check that the discharge warning light comes ON when the ignition switch is turned ON. Start the engine. Check that the warning light goes out.
19. Check the charging circuit WITHOUT A LOAD. Connect a battery/alternator tester according to the manufacturer's instructions.
20. Check the charging circuit WITH A LOAD (turn on high beams and heater fan). Connect a battery/alternator tester according to the manufacturer's
instructions.
21. Replace the necessary parts. Recheck the charging system. The standard amperage with a load on the system should be 30 amps. If a battery is
fully charged, sometimes the indication will be less than 30 amps.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-90 Except 1990 VIN Code 5 Engine
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the battery can cause personal injury and damage to the car. If a tool is accidentally shorted at the alternator, it can become hot
enough to cause a serious burn.

2. Disconnect the large connector from the alternator.

3. Remove the nut and the single wire from the alternator.
4. Loosen the adjusting lock bolt (Prizm, lower bolt) and pivot (upper) bolt. Remove the drive belt.

It may be necessary to remove other belts for access.

5. Remove the lower bolt first, support the alternator and remove the upper pivot bolt. Remove the alternator from the car.
6. Installation is reverse of the above procedure. When reinstalling, remember to leave the bolts finger tight so that the belt may be adjusted.
7. Make sure that the plugs and connectors are properly seated and secure in their mounts.

Fig. Fig. 1: Alternator mounting - 1985-88

 Fig. Fig. 2: Alternator mounting - 1989-90 and 1991-92 base and LSi models

1991-92 All Engines and 1990 VIN Code 5 Engine

See Figures 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Failure to disconnect the negative cable may result in injury from the positive battery lead at the alternator and may short the alternator and regulator
during the removal process.

2. Remove the rubber protector, nut and wire from the battery B terminal on the alternator.
3. Remove the 3-wire alternator connector.
4. On the Prizm Base and LSi models use the following steps;

A. Remove the upper and lower alternator bolts and nuts.

B. Remove generator.

5. On the Prizm GSi models use the following steps;

A. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

B. Remove the power steering and air conditioning drive belts.
C. Remove the lower mounting bolt and nut from the alternator bracket.
D. Remove the alternator drive belt from the pulley.
E. Remove the lower alternator mounting bracket (1 nut and 2 bolts).
F. Remove the alternator from the vehicle through the space between the right splash shield and the oil pan.

Removal of the alternator mounting bracket is necessary because of the extremely proximate nature of the engine compartment design. There is no way
of getting the alternator out of the vehicle with the mounting bracket in place.

6. Installation is reverse of the above procedure. When reinstalling, remember to leave the bolts finger tight so that the belt may be adjusted.
7. Make sure that the plugs and connectors are properly seated and secure in their mounts.
 Fig. Fig. 3: Alternator mounting - 1990-92 GSi models

1993
See Figure 4

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Failure to disconnect the negative cable may result in injury from the positive battery lead at the alternator and may short the alternator and regulator
during the removal process.

2. Loosen the pivot bolt and the adjusting lock bolt.

3. Remove the drive belt.
4. Remove the alternator connector from the back of the alternator.
5. Remove the 1 nut and alternator wire.
6. Remove the 2 clips and the wire harness.
7. Remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut, and remove the alternator from the mounting bracket.

To install:

8. Place the alternator in its brackets and install the mounting bolts. Do not tighten them yet.
9. Slip the belt back over the pulley. Pull outwards on the unit and adjust the belt tension. Tighten the mounting and adjusting bolts. Tighten the
generator pivot mounting bolt to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) and the adjusting lock bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
10. Install the electrical leads and the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 4: Alternator mounting - 1993 all models

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 GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Battery
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
3. On Nova, remove the bolt holding the battery retainer and remove the retainer. On Prizms, remove the front retainer bolt first, then the rear
retainer bolt and the retainer.
4. Remove the battery. You are reminded that the battery is a fairly heavy item. Use care in lifting it out of the car.
5. The new battery is installed in the reverse order of removal. Make certain that the retainer is correctly placed and its bolts are tight. Connect the
positive cable first, then the negative cable.

Removing the battery may require resetting various digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock.

Fig. Fig. 1: Battery installation - 1989-93 shown

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Battery and Starting System

BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPALS Print

The battery is the first link in the chain of mechanisms which work together
to provide cranking of the automobile engine. In most modern cars, the battery is a lead/acid electrochemical device consisting of six 2v subsections
(cells) connected in series so the unit is capable of producing approximately 12v of electrical pressure. Each subsection consists of a series of positive and
negative plates held a short distance apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and water.

The two types of plates are of dissimilar metals. This causes a chemical reaction to be set up, and it is this reaction which produces current flow from the
battery when its positive and negative terminals are connected to an electrical appliance such as a lamp or motor. The continued transfer of electrons
would eventually convert the sulfuric acid to water, and make the 2 plates identical in chemical composition. As electrical energy is removed from the
battery, its voltage output tends to drop. Thus, measuring battery voltage and battery electrolyte composition are 2 ways of checking the ability of the
unit to supply power. During the starting of the engine, electrical energy is removed from the battery. However, if the charging circuit is in good condition
and the operating conditions are normal, the power removed from the battery will be replaced by the generator (or alternator) which will force electrons
back through the battery, reversing the normal flow, and restoring the battery to its original chemical state.

The battery and starting motor are linked by very heavy electrical cables designed to minimize resistance to the flow of current. Generally, the major
power supply cable that leaves the battery goes directly to the starter, while other electrical system needs are supplied by a smaller cable. During starter
operation, power flows from the battery to the starter and is grounded through the car's frame and the battery's negative ground strap.

The starting motor is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of producing a very great amount of power for its size. One thing that
allows the motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the
starter's armature), which drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that
only intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little allowance for air circulation is required, and the windings can be built into a very small space.

The starter solenoid is a magnetic device which employs the small current supplied by the start circuit of the ignition switch. This magnetic action moves
a plunger which mechanically engages the starter and closes the heavy switch connecting it to the battery. The starting switch circuit consists of the
starting switch contained within the ignition switch, a transmission neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to connect these
in series with the starter solenoid or relay.
The pinion, a small gear, is mounted to a one-way drive clutch. This clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved to
the start position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel ring gear via a collar and spring. If the teeth on the pinion and flywheel
match properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the
gears to mesh as soon as the starter turns far enough to allow them to do so. As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, it closes the contacts
that connect the battery and starter and then the engine is cranked.

As soon as the engine starts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough to drive the pinion at an extremely high rate of speed. At this point, the
one-way clutch begins allowing the pinion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the ignition
switch is released from the starter position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring pulls the gear out of mesh interrupting the current flow to the
starter.

Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay replaces the
solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid mounted on the starter used to mechanically engage the starter drive gears.
The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the starting switch must carry.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Charging System
BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES Print

The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of

the vehicle's ignition and starting systems and all the electrical accessories. The battery services as an electrical surge or storage tank, storing (in
chemical form) the energy originally produced by the engine driven generator. The system also provides a means of regulating generator output to
protect the battery from being overcharged and to avoid excessive voltage to the accessories.

The storage battery is a chemical device incorporating parallel lead plates in a tank containing a sulfuric acid/water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly
dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the 2 dissimilar plates produces electrical energy when the battery is connected to a load such as the starter
motor. The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the generator is producing a voltage (electrical pressure) greater than that produced by the
battery, electricity is forced into the battery, and the battery is returned to its fully charged state.

The vehicle's generator is driven mechanically, through V-belts, by the engine crankshaft. It consists of 2 coils of fine wire, one stationary (the stator), and
one movable (the rotor). The rotor may also be known as the armature, and consists of fine wire wrapped around an iron core which is mounted on a
shaft. The electricity which flows through the 2 coils of wire (provided initially by the battery in some cases) creates an intense magnetic field around
both rotor and stator, and the interaction between the 2 fields creates voltage, allowing the generator to power the accessories and charge the battery.

There are 2 types of generators: the earlier is the direct current (DC) type. The current produced by the DC generator is generated in the armature and
carried off the spinning armature by stationary brushes contacting the commutator. The commutator is a series of smooth metal contact plates on the
end of the armature. The commutator plates, which are separated from one another by a very short gap, are connected to the armature circuits so that
current will flow in one direction only in the wires carrying the generator output. The generator stator consists of 2 stationary coils of wire which draw
some of the output current from the generator to form a powerful magnetic field and create the interaction of fields which generates the voltage. The
generator field is wired in series with the regulator.

Newer automobiles use alternating current generators or alternators, because they are more efficient, can be rotated at higher speeds, and have fewer
brush problems. In an alternator, the field rotates while all the current produced passes only through the stator winding. The brushes bear against
continuous slip rings rather than a commutator. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the direction of its flow. Diodes (electrical one-
way valves) block the flow of current from traveling in the wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together to permit the alternating flow of the stator
to be rectified back to 12 volts DC for use by the vehicles's electrical system.

The regulator consists of several circuits. Each circuit has a core, or magnetic coil of wire, which operates a switch. Each switch is connected to ground
through one or more resistors. The coil of wire responds directly to system voltage. When the voltage reaches the required level, the magnetic field
created by the winding of wire closes the switch and inserts a resistance into the generator field circuit, thus reducing the output. The contacts of the
switch cycle open and close many times each second to precisely control voltage. On many newer cars, the regulating function is performed by solid-
state (rather than mechanical) components. The regulator is often built in to the alternator; this system is termed an integrated or internal regulator.

While alternators are self-limiting as far as maximum current is concerned, DC generators employ a current regulating circuit which responds directly to
the total amount of current flowing through the generator circuit rather than to the output voltage. The current regulator is similar to the voltage
regulator except that all system current must flow through the energizing coil on its way to the various accessories.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Distributor
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

WARNING
Once the distributor is removed, the engine should not be turned or moved out of position. Should this occur, please refer to the end of this section.

1985-88 VIN Code 4 Engine

See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the distributor wire at its connector.
3. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses running to the vacuum advance unit on the side of the distributor.
4. Remove the distributor cap (leave the spark plug wires connected) and swing it out of the way.
5. Carefully note the position of the distributor rotor relative to the distributor housing; a mark made on the casing will be helpful during reassembly.
Use a marker or tape so the mark doesn't rub off during the handling of the case.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Distributor removal - 1985-88 VIN Code 4 engine

6. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts.

7. Carefully pull the distributor out until it stops turning counterclockwise.

To install:

8. If the engine has not been moved out of position, align the rotor with the mark you made earlier and reinstall the distributor. Position it carefully
and make sure the drive gear engages properly within the engine. Install the holding bolts.
9. Install the distributor cap and re-attach the vacuum lines to their correct ports.
10. Install the wiring to the distributor, and connect the battery cable.
11. Check and adjust the timing as necessary.

1988 VIN Code 5 Engine

See Figure 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Label and disconnect the coil and spark plug wiring at the distributor cap.
3. Disconnect the distributor wire at its connector.
4. Remove the distributor hold-down bolts. Before moving or disturbing the distributor, mark the position of the distributor relative to the engine and
the position of the rotor relative to the case. Use a marker or tape so the mark doesn't rub off during the handling of the case.
5. Remove the distributor from the engine.
6. Remove the O-ring from the distributor shaft.

To install:

7. If the engine has not been moved out of position, align the rotor with the mark you made earlier and reinstall the distributor. Position it carefully
and make sure the drive gear engages properly within the engine. Install the holding bolts.
8. Reconnect the wiring and the spark plug wires. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Check and adjust the timing as necessary.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Distributor removal - 1988 VIN Code 5 engine

1989-93 All Engines

See Figures 3, 4 and 5

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect all electrical connections at the distributor, including the plug wires.
3. Remove the distributor cap.
4. Mark the position of the distributor case relative to the engine. Use a marker or tape so the mark doesn't rub off during the handling of the case.
Also mark the position of the distributor rotor relative to the case.
5. Remove the distributor mounting bolts.
6. Remove the distributor from the engine and remove the O-ring from the distributor shaft.
7. If the engine has not been moved out of position, align the rotor with the mark you made earlier and reinstall the distributor. Position it carefully
and make sure the drive gear engages properly within the engine. Install the holding bolts.
8. Reconnect the wiring and the spark plug wires. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Check and adjust the timing as necessary.

Fig. Fig. 3: Distributor removal - 1989-90 VIN Code 6 and 1990-92 VIN Code 5 engines
 Fig. Fig. 4: Distributor removal - 1991-92 VIN Code 6 engine

Fig. Fig. 5: Distributor removal - 1993 all engines

Installation - Timing Lost

If the engine has been cranked, dismantled or the timing otherwise lost while the distributor was out, proceed as follows:

1985-88 VIN CODE 4 ENGINE

See Figure 6

1. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.

2. Place your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC (Top Dead Center). Watch the timing marks on the pulley; as
they approach the zero point, you should feel pressure (compression) on your finger. If not, turn the crankshaft another full rotation and line up the
marks.
3. Install the spark plug.
4. Observing the alignment marks made during removal, reinstall the distributor.

Align the protrusion on the housing with the pin on the spiral gear drill mark side.
 Fig. Fig. 6: Setting the No. 1 cylinder - 1985-88 VIN Code 4 engine

1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE 1991-92 VIN CODE 6 ENGINE

See Figure 7

1. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.

2. Place thumb over the spark plug hole. Crank the engine slowly until compression is felt. It will be easier to have someone rotate the engine by
hand, using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley.

The spark plugs on the fuel injected engines are in deep wells; use a screwdriver handle to plug the hole and feel the compression.

3. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0 degrees mark on the timing scale attached to the front of the engine. This places the
engine at TDC of the compression stroke.

Verify that the timing marks are aligned properly by, removing the oil filler cap and check to see the cavity in the camshaft. If necessary turn the
crankshaft pulley 1 complete revolution.

4. Turn the distributor shaft until the rotor points to the No. 1 spark plug tower on the cap.
5. Install the distributor into the engine. Be sure to align the distributor-to-engine block mark made earlier.

Align the drilled marks on the driven gear with the cavity of the housing. Install the distributor into the engine and align the center of the flange with the
center of the bolt hole in the cylinder head.

6. Install spark plug and wire.

7. Connect battery negative cable. Check and/or adjust ignition timing.

Fig. Fig. 7: Distributor installation - 1988 VIN Code 5 and 1991-92 VIN Code 6 engines

1989-90 VIN CODE 6 ENGINE 1990-92 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE

See Figures 8 and 9

1. Crank the engine and align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0 degrees mark on the timing scale attached to the front of the
engine. This places the engine at TDC of the compression stroke.
This can be accomplished by cranking the engine until the exhaust camshaft is in the position shown in the illustration.

2. Turn the rotor until the distributor alignment marks match.

3. Install the distributor into the engine.
4. Connect battery negative cable. Check and/or adjust ignition timing.

Fig. Fig. 8: Positioning the exhaust camshaft - 1989-90 VIN Code 6 and 1991-92 VIN Code 5 engines

Fig. Fig. 9: Positioning the distributor alignment marks - 1989-90 VIN Code 6 and 1991-92 VIN Code 5 engines

1993 ALL ENGINES

See Figure 10

1. Crank the engine and align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0 degrees mark on the timing scale attached to the front of the
engine. This places the engine at TDC of the compression stroke. This can be accomplished as follows:
2. Remove the circuit opening relay.

A. Remove the radio.

B. Disconnect the circuit opening relay electrical connector from the center console.
C. Remove the circuit opening relay from the center console.

3. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.

4. Install a compression gauge into the spark plug cavity.
5. Crank the engine and observe the compression gauge. The TDC of the cylinder's compression stroke occurs when the compression reading is
highest.
6. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0 degrees mark on the timing scale attached to the front of the engine. This places the
engine at TDC of the compression stroke.
7. Position the rotor to the No. 1 cylinder position.
8. Install the distributor.
9. Remove the compression gauge and install the spark plug.
10. Install the opening circuit relay by reversing the removal procedure.
11. Set the ignition timing.
 Fig. Fig. 10: Removing the circuit opening relay - 1993 models

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

ENGINE ELECTRICAL
For any electrical system to operate, it must make a complete circuit. This simply means that the power flow from the battery must make a Print
complete circle. When an electrical component is operating, power flows from the battery to the components, passes through the component
(load) causing it to function, and returns to the battery through the ground path of the circuit. This ground may be either another wire or the
actual metal part of the car upon which the component is mounted.

Perhaps the easiest way to visualize this is to think of connecting a light bulb with 2 wires attached to it to the battery. If one of the two wires was
attached to the negative (-) post of the battery and the other wire to the positive (+) post, the light bulb would light and the circuit would be complete.
Electricity could follow a path from the battery to the bulb and back to the battery. Its not hard to see that with longer wires on our light bulb, it could be
mounted anywhere on the car. Further, one wire could be fitted with a switch so that the light could be turned on and off at will. Various other items could
be added to our primitive circuit to make the light flash, become brighter or dimmer under certain conditions or advise the user that it's burned out.

Some automotive components don't use a wire to battery - they ground to the metal of the car through their mounting points. The electrical current runs
through the chassis of the vehicle and returns to the battery through the ground (-) cable; if you look, you'll see that the battery ground cable connects
between the battery and the body of the car.

Every complete circuit must include a load - something to use the electricity coming from the source. If you were to connect a wire between the 2
terminals of the battery (DON'T do this) without the light bulb, the battery would attempt to deliver its entire power supply from one pole to another
almost instantly. This is a short circuit. The electricity is taking a short-cut to get to ground and is not being used by any load in the circuit. This sudden
and uncontrolled electrical flow can cause great damage to other components in the circuit and can develop a tremendous amount of heat. A short in an
automotive wiring harness can develop sufficient heat to melt the insulation on all the surrounding wires and reduce a multi-wire cable to one sad lump of
plastic and copper. Two common causes of shorts are broken insulation (thereby exposing the wire to contact with surrounding metal surfaces) or a failed
switch (the pins inside the switch come out of place, touch each other and reroute the electricity).

Some electrical components which require a large amount of current to operate also have a relay in their circuit. Since these circuits carry a large
amount of current (amperage or amps), the thickness of the wire in the circuit (wire gauge) is also greater. If this large wire were connected from the load
to the control switch on the dash, the switch would have to carry the high amperage load and the dash would be twice as large to accommodate wiring
harnesses as thick as your wrist. To prevent these problems, a relay is used. The large wires in the circuit are connected from the battery to one side of
the relay and from the opposite side of the relay to the load. The relay is normally open, preventing current from passing through the circuit. An
additional, smaller wire is connected from the relay to the control switch for the circuit. When the control switch is turned on, it grounds the smaller wire
to the relay and completes its circuit. The main switch inside the relay close, sending power to t

he component without routing the main power through the inside of the car. Some common circuits which may use relays are the horn, headlights, starter
and rear window defogger systems.

It is possible for larger surges of current to pass through the electrical system of your car. If this surge of current were to reach the load in the circuit, it
could burn it out or severely damage it. To prevent this, fuse and/or circuit breakers and/or fusible links are connected into the supply wires of the
electrical system. These items are nothing more than a built-in weak spot in the system. It's much easier to go to a known location (the fusebox) to see
why a circuit is inoperative than to dissect 15 feet of wiring under the dashboard, looking for what happened.

When an electrical current of excessive power passes through the fuse, the fuse blows and breaks the circuit, preventing the passage of current and
protecting the components.

A circuit breaker is basically a self-repairing fuse. It will open the circuit in the same fashion as a fuse, but when either the short is removed or the surge
subsides, the circuit breaker resets itself and does not need replacement.

A fuse link (fusible link or main link) is a wire that acts as a fuse. It is normally connected between the starter relay and the main wiring harness under the
hood. Since the starter is the highest electrical draw on the car, an internal short during starter use could direct about 130 amps into the wrong places.
Consider the damage potential of introducing this current into a system whose wiring is rated at 15 amps and you'll understand the need for protection.
Since this link is very early in the electrical path, it's the first place to look if nothing on the car works but the battery seems to be charged and is
properly connected.

Electrical problems generally fall into one of 3 areas:

1. The component that is not functioning is not receiving current.

2. The component is receiving power but not using it or using it incorrectly (component failure).
 3. The component is improperly grounded.

The circuit can be can be checked with a test light and a jumper wire. The test light is a device that looks like a pointed screwdriver with a wire on one
end and a bulb in its handle. A jumper wire is simply a piece of wire with alligator clips on each end. If a component is not working, you must follow a
systematic plan to determine which of the 3 causes is the villain.

4. Turn on the switch that controls the item not working.

Some items only work when the ignition switch is turned on.

5. Disconnect the the power supply wire from the component.

6. Attach the ground wire on the test light to a good metal ground.
7. Touch the end probe of the test light to the power wire; if there is current in the wire, the light in the test light will come on. You have now
established that current is getting to the component.
8. Turn the ignition or dash switch off and reconnect the wire to the component.

If the test light does not go on, then the problem is between the battery and the component. This includes all the switches, fuses, relays and the battery
itself. Next place to look is the fusebox; check carefully either by eye or by using the test light across the fuse clips. The easiest way to check is to simply
replace the fuse. If the fuse is blown, and upon replacement, immediately blows again, there is a short between the fuse and the component. This is
generally (not always) a sign of an internal short in the component. Disconnect the power wire at the component again and replace the fuse; if the fuse
holds, the component is the problem.

If all the fuses are good and the component is not receiving power, find the switch for the circuit. Bypass the switch with the jumper wire. This is done by
connecting one end of the jumper to the power wire coming into the switch and the other end to the wire leaving the switch. If the component comes to
life, the switch has failed.

WARNING
Never substitute the jumper for the component. The circuit needs the electrical load of the component. If you bypass it, you cause a short circuit.

Checking the ground for any circuit can mean tracing wires to the body, cleaning connections or tightening mounting bolts for the component itself. If the
jumper wire can be connected to the case of the component or the ground connector, you can ground the other end to a piece of clean, solid metal on the
car. Again, if the component starts working, you've found the problem.

It should be noted that generally the last place to look for an electrical problem is in the wiring itself. Unless the car has undergone unusual
circumstances (major bodywork, flood damage, improper repairs, etc.) the wiring is not likely to change its condition. A systematic search through the
fuse, the connectors and switches and the component itself will almost always yield an answer. Loose and/or corroded connectors - particularly in ground
circuits - are becoming a larger problem in modern cars. The computers and on-board electronic (solid state) systems are highly sensitive to improper
grounds and will change their function drastically if one occurs.

Remember that for any electrical circuit to work, ALL the connections must be clean and tight.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Igniter (Ignition Module)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

For testing and replacement of distributor ignitor, please refer to Engine

Performance & Tune-up , Engine Performance And Tune-Up.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Ignition Coil
TESTING Print

See Figures 1 and 2

This test requires the use of an ohmmeter. When using this tool, make sure the scale is set properly for the range of resistance you expect to encounter
during the test. Always perform these tests with the ignition OFF.

1. Disconnect the distributor cap and set it aside. The spark plug wires may be left attached to the cap. Remove the rotor and the dust cover(s).
2. Using the ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on the coil. The resistance on the primary side of
the coil (when cold) should be:

1985-88 VIN Code 4 engine: 0.3-0.5-

1986-88 VIN Code 4 engine: 0.4-0.5-
1988 VIN Code 5 engine: 0.5-0.7-
1989-90 VIN Code 6 engine: 1.28-1.56-
1990 VIN Code 5 engine: 0.4-0.5-
1991-92 VIN Code 5 engine: 1.28-1.56-
 1991-92 VIN Code 6 engine: 0.4-0.5-
1993 All engines: 1.11-1.75-

3. Using the ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive terminal and the center (high tension) terminal. (This is the terminal to which
the coil attaches in the cap.) The resistance on the secondary side should be:

1985 VIN Code 4 engine: 7,500-10,500-

1985- 88 VIN Code 4 engine: 7,500-10,400-
1988 VIN Code 5 engine: 0.4-0.5-
1988 VIN Code 5 engine: 11,000-16,000-
1990 VIN Code 5 engine: 10,200-13,800-
1989-90 VIN Code 6 engine: 10,400-14,000-
1991-92 VIN Code 5 engine: 10,400-14,000-
1991-92 VIN Code 6 engine: 10,200-13,800-
1993 All engines: 9,000-15,700-

4. Coils measuring outside either of these ranges must be replaced.

Fig. Fig. 1: Checking the coil primary resistance

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the coil secondary resistance

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 3

External Coil
External coils (coils which are not built into the distributor) are easily replaced by the following procedure:

1. Make certain the ignition is off and the key is removed.

2. Disconnect the high tension wire (running between the coil and the distributor) from the coil.
3. Label and disconnect the low tension wires from the coil.
4. Loosen the coil bracket and remove the coil. Install the new coil and tighten the bracket.

Fig. Fig. 3: The coil is easily removed with the distributor out of the engine

5. Attach the low tension wires first, then the coil wire.

Internal Coil
The internal coils found within the distributor can be changed without removing the distributor. A selection of various short screwdrivers may be required
for access to the screws.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the distributor cap with the wires attached and set it aside.
3. Remove the rotor and the dust cover(s).
4. Remove the nuts and disconnect the wires from the terminals on the coil.
5. Remove the 4 retaining screws and remove the coil. Note that later cars have a gasket below the coil - remove it carefully to avoid damage.
6. Install the coil, paying close attention to the gasket and its placement.
7. Connect the wiring to the coil and be careful of the routing of the wires.
8. Install the dust cover(s), the rotor and the cap.
9. Reconnect the battery.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Regulator
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

The voltage regulator is contained within the alternator. It is called an IC type (Integrated Circuit). The alternator must be removed to replace the
regulator.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the alternator.
3. Support the alternator on a workbench, pulley end down but not resting on the pulley.
4. At the side of the alternator, remove the nut and the plastic terminal insulator.
5. Remove the 3 nuts and remove the end cover.
6. Remove the 5 screws and carefully remove the brush holder and then the IC regulator. Be careful to keep track of various small parts (washers,
etc.) - they will be needed during reassembly.
7. When reinstalling, place the cover over the brush holder. Install the regulator and the brush holder onto the alternator and secure them with the 5
screws. Make sure the brush holder's cover doesn't slip to one side during installation.
8. Before reinstalling the rear cover, check that the gap between the bush holder and the connector is at least 1mm. After confirming this gap, install
 the rear alternator cover and its 3 nuts.
9. Install the terminal insulator and its nut. Hold the alternator horizontally and spin the pulley by hand. Make sure everything turns smoothly and
there is no sign of noise or binding.

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the Nova alternator

Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the Prizm alternator

 Fig. Fig. 3: Removing the IC regulator from the alternator

Fig. Fig. 4: Maintain the minimum clearance between the brush holder and the connector when reassembling. 1mm=0.004 in

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Starter
TESTING Print

See Figure 1

1. Inspect the battery specific gravity and electrolyte level. Check the specific gravity of each cell. The standard specific gravity of each cell is 1.25-
1.27 when fully charged at 68°F. On a Delco battery with a maintenance eye look for a GREEN DOT which means the battery is fully charged. The
DARK eye (GREEN DOT NOT VISIBLE) means the battery must be charged. The CLEAR or LIGHT YELLOW eye means replace the battery.
2. Check the battery terminals are not loose or corroded. Check the fusible link for continuity.
3. For further starting system troubleshooting, refer to the troubleshooting chart to find the problem and possible cause and remedy. Replace or
repair the necessary items.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Starter troubleshooting chart

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-90
See Figure 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect all the wiring from the starter terminals.
3. On Nova, remove the transaxle cable and bracket from the transaxle.
4. Remove the starter mounting bolts.
5. Remove the starter.
6. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

Fig. Fig. 2: Starter installation - 1985-92

1991-92 Prizm
See Figure 2

BASE AND LSi MODELS

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the starter solenoid by removing the nut from terminal 30 stud.
3. Disconnect the ignition switch lead from terminal 50.
4. Remove the 2 starter assembly retaining bolts and remove the starter assembly.
5. To install, reverse the removal procedures. Torque the starter-to-engine bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

GSi MODEL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the rear cooling fan assembly.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle safely.
4. Remove the right and left splash shields.
5. Disconnect the oxygen sensor connector from the front exhaust pipe.
6. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe.
7. Remove the starter assembly mounting bolts.
8. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the starter solenoid by removing the nut from terminal 30 stud.
9. Disconnect the ignition switch lead from terminal 50. Remove the starter assembly from the vehicle.
10. To install, reverse the removal procedures. Torque the starter-to-engine bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).

1993
To install:
See Figure 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor from the air cleaner (ACL). Loosen the (ACL) hose clamp bolt.
3. Remove the 4 ACL cap clips, hose ACL cap from the lower housing and throttle body.
4. Disconnect the wire clamp from the starter motor.
5. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connector.
6. Remove the 1 nut and the positive battery cable from the starter motor terminal.
7. Remove the 2 bolts and the starter motor from the vehicle.
8. Install the starter motor and tighten the 2 retaining bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
9. Install the 1 nut and the positive battery cable to the starter motor terminal.
10. Connect the starter motor electrical connector.
11. Connect the wire clamp to the starter motor.
12. Connect the hose ACL cap to the lower housing and throttle body and secure with the 4 ACL cap clips.
13. Connect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor to the air cleaner (ACL). Tighten the (ACL) hose clamp bolt.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 3: Starter installation - 1993

SOLENOID REPLACEMENT
See Figure 4

The starter solenoid or magnetic switch is an integral part of the starter. It cannot be replaced without complete disassembly of the starter.

1. Remove the starter from the car.

2. Disconnect the wire lead from the magnetic switch terminal.
3. Remove the 2 long, through bolts holding the field frame to the magnetic switch. Pull out the field frame with the armature from the magnetic
switch.
4. On 1.0kw (1000 watt) starters, remove the felt seal. On 1.4kw starters, remove the O-ring.
5. To remove the starter housing from the magnetic switch assembly:

A. For 1.0 kw starters, remove the 2 screws and remove the starter housing with the idler gear and clutch assembly.
B. For 1.4kw units, remove the 2 screws and remove the starter housing with the pinion gear, idler and clutch assembly.

6. Using a magnetic tool, remove the spring and steel ball from the clutch shaft hole.
7. Remove the end cover from the field frame.
8. On 1.4kw units, remove the O-ring.
9. Use a small screwdriver or steel wire to separate the brush springs and remove the brushes from the holder.
10. Pull the brush holder off the field frame.
11. Remove the armature from the field frame.
12. Perform testing and repairs as necessary:

A. Measure the length of the brushes. If they are less than the acceptable minimum length, replace them with new brushes.

Standard Length:

1.0kw - 13mm
1.4kw - 15mm
Minimum Length:

1.0kw - 8.5mm
1.4kw - 10mm

2. Check the magnetic switch by performing the pull-in coil open circuit test. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminal 50 and
terminal C. If there is no continuity, replace the magnetic switch.
3. Check the hold in coil of the magnetic switch. Use the ohmmeter to check for continuity between terminal 50 and the body (case) of the unit. If
there is no continuity, replace the switch.
4. To reassemble the starter, apply high-temperature grease to the armature bearings and insert the armature into the field frame.
5. Use a screwdriver or a steel wire to hold the brush spring back and install the brushes into the holder(s).

WARNING
Make certain the positive wires to the brushes are not grounded or touching surrounding parts.

15. For 1.4kw starters, install the O-ring on the field frame.
16. Install the end cover on the field frame.
17. Apply grease to the ball and spring and insert them into the clutch shaft hole.
18. Install the gears and clutch assembly to the starter housing. Apply grease to the gear and clutch assemblies and:

A. For 1.0kw starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear and bearing in the starter housing.
B. For 1.4kw starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear, bearing and pinion gear in the starter housing.

19. Insert the spring into the clutch shaft hole and place the starter housing onto the magnetic switch. Install the 2 screws.
20. On 1.0kw units, install the felt seal on the armature shaft. On 1.4kw units, install the O-ring on the field frame.
21. Install the field frame with armature onto the magnetic switch assembly and install the 2 through bolts.

There is a protrusion or tab on each part; make sure you line them up correctly.

22. Connect the wire to the terminal on the magnetic switch.

23. Reinstall the starter on the vehicle.
 Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of starter motors

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Emission Controls

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

3-Way and Oxidation Catalyst (TWC-OC) System

OPERATION Print

The catalytic converter is a muffler-like container built into the exhaust system to aid in the reduction of HC, CO
and NOx emissions by changing them into nitrogen, carbon dioxide and water vapor through the action of the catalyst upon the exhaust gas.

The 3-way catalytic convertor is the best type to use since it can change all 3 types of emissions into non-polluting gases. In this type of converter nitrous
oxides are chemically reduced by the catalyst and reformed into the molecules of oxygen and nitrogen. The oxygen formed by the reduction reaction is
then used to oxidize carbon monoxide and the hydrocarbons, forming carbon dioxide and water vapor.

For the catalytic converter to work most efficiently, the following conditions must be met:

Operating temperature must be over 500°F (260°C).

Air/fuel ratio must be held closely at 14.7:1.

PRECAUTIONS

Use only unleaded fuel.

Avoid prolonged idling; the engine should run no longer than 20 minutes at curb idle, nor longer than 10 minutes at fast idle.
Reduce the fast idle speed, by quickly depressing and releasing the accelerator pedal, as soon as the coolant temperature reaches 120°F (49°C).
DO NOT disconnect any spark plug leads while the engine is running.
Always make engine compression checks as quickly as possible. Excess fuel can be pumped through the motor and build up in the converter.
DO NOT dispose of the catalyst in a place where anything coated with grease, gas, or oil is present; spontaneous combustion could result.
Since the inside of the catalyst must reach 500°F (260°C) to work efficiently, the outside of the converter will also become very hot. Always be
aware of what may be under the car when you park. Parking a hot exhaust system over dry grass, leaves or other flammable items may lead to a fire.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Automatic Choke
OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

The automatic choke system temporarily supplies a rich air/fuel mixture to the engine by closing the choke valve (plate) when the engine is cold. At cold
temperatures with the ignition switch ON but the engine not running, there is no voltage supplied from the alternator's L terminal at the choke heater.
The bimetal choke spring is contracted, closing the choke valve.

Fig. Fig. 1: Choke system components

As soon as the engine is running, the L terminal supplies voltage to the choke heater. The heat generated is transferred to the bimetal spring causing it to
unwind-opening the choke valve. This helps provide a relatively quick transition between the rich (cold) setting to the normally open position when the
engine no longer requires the rich air/fuel mixture.

TESTING
Automatic Choke

1. Allow the choke valve to close.

 2. Start the engine.
3. Check that the choke valve begins to open and the choke housing is heated.

Heating Coil

1. Unplug the wire connector.

2. Measure the resistance with an ohmmeter. The resistance should read: 19-24 ohms 68°F (20°C). Allow for slight variations due to temperature
differences.

Fig. Fig. 2: Choke system operation chart

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Auxiliary Acceleration Pump (AAP)

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

When accelerating with a cold engine, the main acceleration pump's capacity is insufficient to provide enough fuel for good acceleration. The auxiliary
acceleration pump system compensates for this by forcing more fuel into the acceleration nozzle to obtain better cold engine performance.

Fig. Fig. 1: Auxiliary acceleration pump system components

When engine coolant temperature is below 122°F (50°C), the thermostatic vacuum switching valve connects port K to port N which connects manifold
vacuum to the AAP diaphragm. When engine rpm is relatively steady, the diaphragm moves against its spring causing its fuel chamber to fill. Whenever
the engine is accelerated, the vacuum signal to the AAP diaphragm diminishes quickly. The diaphragm is pushed by its spring, forcing its fuel into the
main acceleration circuit and out its nozzle.

After coolant temperature exceeds 154°F (68°C), the TVSV blocks Port K and Port N stopping the operation of the auxiliary acceleration pump system.
The additional fuel requirement for warm engine acceleration is adequately handled by the main acceleration pump (carburetor) circuit.

TESTING
Auxiliary Acceleration Pump System

1. Check that the coolant temperature is below 122°F (50°C). Remove the cover from the air cleaner and start the engine.
2. Pinch the AAP hose, and shut off the engine.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Auxiliary acceleration pump system chart

3. Release the hose. Check that gasoline spurts out from the accelerator nozzle in the carburetor. Don't perform this test too often - you may flood the
motor.
4. Restart the engine and warm it to normal operating temperature. Repeat steps 2 and 3 above. Check that gasoline DOES NOT spurt out from the
accelerator nozzle.
5. Reinstall the air cleaner cover.

Auxiliary Acceleration Pump Diaphragm

1. Start the engine.

2. Disconnect the hose from the AAP diaphragm.
3. Apply vacuum directly to the AAP diaphragm (at idle) with a hand held vacuum pump.
4. Check that the engine rpm changes as the vacuum is released from the system.
5. Reconnect the AAP hose.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Choke Opener System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

The choke opener system, after warm-up, forcibly holds the choke valve open to prevent an over-rich mixture and releases the fast idle cam to the 3rd
(lowest) step to lower the engine rpm.

When engine coolant temperature is below 122°F (50°C), the thermostatic vacuum switching valve connects port J to port M which places atmospheric
pressure on the choke valve. Through the choke opener linkage, the fast idle cam is set at the first (high idle) or second step.

When the coolant temperature exceeds 154°F (68°C), the TVSV connects Port K to Port M which now applies manifold vacuum to the choke opener
diaphragm. This action opens the choke valve further and releases the fast idle cam to the third step and idle speed decreases.

Fig. Fig. 1: Choke opener system operation

 Fig. Fig. 2: Choke opener system operation

TESTING
Choke Opener System Operation

1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the choke opener diaphragm. With the coolant temperature below 122°F (50°C), step down on the accelerator
pedal and release it.
2. Start the engine.
3. Reconnect the vacuum hose and check that the choke linkage does not move.
4. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature and shut it off.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the choke opener diaphragm.
6. Set the fast idle cam. While holding the throttle slightly open, push the choke plate closed and hold it closed as you release the throttle.
7. Turn the key and start the motor but DO NOT touch the accelerator pedal.
8. Reconnect the vacuum hose. The choke linkage should move and the fast idle cam should release to the third step (lowest rpm).

TVSV
For testing procedures for the TVSV please refer to the EGR system testing procedures earlier in this Section.

Choke Diaphragm
Check that the choke linkage moves in accordance with the amount of vacuum applied. If a problem is found, replace the diaphragm.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Cold Mixture Heater (CMH)

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

The cold-mixture heater (CMH) system reduces cold engine emissions and improves driveability during engine warm-up. The intake manifold is heated
during cold engine warm-up to accelerate vaporization of the liquid fuel.

Fig. Fig. 1: Cold mixture heater system

Fig. Fig. 2: Cold mixture heater operation chart

The computer looks at alternator terminal L to determine if the engine is running and also watches the engine's coolant temperature. If the engine is
running and the coolant temperature is below 109°F (43°C), the computer energizes the cold mixture heater relay, which in turn applies battery
voltage to the cold mixture heater. The CMH is a multi-element heater ring that is mounted between the carburetor base and the intake manifold. Once
the coolant temperature exceeds 131°F (55°C) the CMH relay is de-energized and the heater elements turn off.

TESTING
Cold Mixture System Operation
 1. Start the engine. The coolant temperature must be below 109°F (43°C).
2. Using a voltmeter, check that there is voltage between the positive (+) terminal (white/red wire) and the ground.

WARNING
The voltmeter probe should be inserted from the rear side of the connector.

3. Allow the engine to warm up and check the OHM with the engine warm. The coolant temperature should be above 131°F (55°C).
4. Using a voltmeter, check that there is NO voltage. If no problem is found with this inspection, the system is working properly.

Mixture Heater

1. Unplug the wiring connector.

2. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the heater terminals. The resistance should be 0.5-2.0 -. Readings outside this range require
replacement of the heater element.
3. Replug the wiring connector.

Cold Mixture Heater Relay

1. Check that there is continuity between the No. 1 and 2 terminals. Check that there is NO continuity between the No. 3 and 4 terminals.

The relay is located under the air intake hose behind the battery.

2. Apply battery voltage to terminal No. 1 and ground terminal No. 2. Use the ohmmeter to check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

This system cuts off part of the fuel flow to the idle (or slow) circuit of the carburetor to prevent overheating and afterburning in the exhaust system. The
first fuel cut solenoid is kept energized by the ECM whenever the engine is running. The only exception is if the vacuum signal is above 8.46 in.Hg with
the rpm above 2290. (This combination will be sensed by the ECM when the vacuum switch A de-energizes with a vacuum signal above its calibrated
value.) With the first fuel cut-off solenoid valve de-energized, the carburetor's slow (or idle) circuit fuel is cut off. This will occur whenever the vehicle is
decelerated from an engine rpm higher than 2290.

TESTING
Fuel Cut-Off System Operation
Perform this test quickly to avoid overheating the catalytic converter.

1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.

2. Start the engine.
3. Check that the engine runs normally.

Fig. Fig. 1: Deceleration fuel cut-off components

4. Disconnect the vacuum switch A connector.

 5. Slowly increase the engine speed to 2,300 rpm, and check that the engine speed is fluctuating.
6. Reconnect the vacuum switch connector. Again slowly increase the engine speed to 2,300 rpm and check that the engine operation returns to
normal.
7. If no problem is found with this test, the system is working properly. If any problem is found, inspect each component part.

Fig. Fig. 2: Deceleration fuel cut-off system operation

First Fuel Cut-Off Solenoid Valve

1. Remove the 2-wire solenoid valve from the carburetor.

CAUTION
Gasoline may run from the carburetor. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a dry powder (Type B-C) fire extinguisher within reach at all
times.

2. Apply 12v to one of the solenoid wires while grounding the other.
3. You should be able to feel a distinct click within the solenoid as the circuit is completed and released. This shows that the solenoid is engaging and
disengaging properly.
4. Check the O-ring for damage.
5. Reinstall the valve and connect the wiring connector.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

EMISSION CONTROLS
Component location and vacuum routing diagrams are located at the end of this Section. Please refer to them before beginning any Print
disassembly or testing. Refer to your underhood emission control label for vacuum diagrams not shown. The underhood label often reflects
the latest changes made during the production of a vehicle.

There are 3 sources of automotive pollutants; crankcase fumes, exhaust gases, and gasoline evaporation. The pollutants formed from these substances
fall into 3 categories: unburned hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). The equipment used to limit these pollutants is
called emission control equipment.

Due to varying state, federal, and provincial regulations, specific emission control equipment may vary by area of sale. The U.S. emission equipment is
divided into 2 categories: California and 49 State. In this section, the term California applies only to cars originally built to be sold in California. Some
California emissions equipment is not shared with equipment installed on cars built to be sold in the other 49 states. Models built to be sold in Canada
also have specific emissions equipment, although in many cases the 49 State and Canadian equipment is the same.

Both carbureted and fuel injected cars require an assortment of systems and devices to control emissions. Newer cars rely more heavily on computer
(ECM) management of many of the engine controls. This eliminates the many of the vacuum hoses and linkages around the engine. In the lists that
follow, remember that not every component is found on every car.

ECM CONTROLLED SYSTEMS

Fuel Evaporative Control (EVAP)

Carburetor Feedback System
Deceleration Fuel Cutoff
Three-Way Oxidation Catalyst (TWC-OC or TWC)
Cold Mixture Heater (CMH)

NON-ECM CONTROLLED SYSTEMS

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

Throttle Positioner (TP)
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
Air Suction (AS)
High Altitude Compensation (HAC)
Automatic Hot Air Intake (HAI)
 Hot Idle Compensation (HIC)
Automatic Choke
Choke Breaker (CB)
Choker Opener
Auxiliary Accelerator Pump (AAP)
Heat Control Valve

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP or EECS)

OPERATION Print

The basic evaporative emission control system used on all vehicles is the charcoal canister storage method. This
method transfers fuel vapor from the fuel tank to an activated carbon (charcoal) storage device (canister) to hold the vapors when the vehicle is not
operating. When the engine is running, the fuel vapor is purged from the carbon element by intake airflow and consumed in the normal combustion
process.

TESTING AND CHECKING

Before embarking on component removal or extensive diagnosis, perform a complete visual check
of the system. Every vacuum line and vapor line (including the lines running to the tank) should be inspected for cracking, loose clamps, kinks and
obstructions. Additionally, check the tank for any signs of deformation or crushing. Each vacuum port on the engine or manifold should be checked for
restriction by dirt or sludge.

The evaporative control system is generally not prone to component failure in normal circumstances; most problems can be tracked to the causes listed
above.

Fuel Filler Cap

Check that the filler cap seals effectively. Remove the filler cap and pull the safety valve outward to check for smooth operation. Replace the filler cap if
the seal is defective or if it is not operating properly.

Charcoal Canister
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Label and disconnect the lines running to the canister. Remove the charcoal canister from the vehicle.
2. Visually check the charcoal canister for cracks or damage.
3. Check for a clogged filter and stuck check valve. Using low pressure compressed air, blow into the tank pipe and check that the air flows without
resistance from the other pipes. If this does not test positive replace the canister.
4. Clean the filter in the canister by blowing no more than 43 psi of compressed air into the pipe to the outer vent control valve while holding the
other upper canister pipes closed.

Do not attempt to wash the charcoal canister. Also be sure that no activated carbon comes out of the canister during the cleaning process.

5. Replace or reinstall the canister as needed.

Fig. Fig. 1: Example of checking a charcoal canister

 Fig. Fig. 2: Example of cleaning a charcoal canister

Outer Vent Control Valve

NOVA WITH VIN CODE 4 ENGINE
See Figure 3

1. Label and disconnect the hoses from the control valve but leave the wiring for the valve connected.
2. Check that the valve is open by blowing air through it when the ignition switch is in the OFF position.

Fig. Fig. 3: Check the outer vent control valve with the ignition OFF and ON. Note that there should be no flow with the ignition on

3. Check that the valve is closed when the ignition switch is in the ON position.
4. Reconnect the hoses to the proper locations. If the valve doesn't operate correctly, double check the fuse and wiring before replacing the valve.

Thermo Switch
NOVA WITH VIN CODE 4 ENGINE
See Figure 4

1. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

2. Remove the thermoswitch from the intake manifold. The switch is located behind the TVSV (Thermo Vacuum Switching Valve).
3. Cool the thermo switch off until the temperature is below 109°F (43°C). Check that there is continuity through the switch by the use of an
ohmmeter.

Fig. Fig. 4: The thermoswitch should have continuity if cooled below 109 degrees F

4. Using hot water, bring the temperature of the switch to above 131°F (55°C). Check that there is no continuity when the switch is in water above
this temperature.
5. Apply sealer to the threads of the switch and reinstall it in the manifold.
6. Refill the radiator with coolant.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Removal and installation of the various evaporative emission control system components
consists of labeling and unfastening hoses, loosening retaining screws, and removing the part which is to be replaced from its mounting point.

When replacing any EVAP system hoses, always use hoses that are fuel-resistant or are marked EVAP. Use of hose which is not fuel-resistant will lead to
premature hose failure.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

OPERATION Print

The EGR system reduces oxides of nitrogen. This is accomplished by recirculating some of the exhaust gases
through the EGR valve to the intake manifold, lowering peak combustion temperatures.

Whenever the engine coolant is below 122°F (50°C), the thermostatic vacuum switching valve (TVSV) connects manifold vacuum to the EGR vacuum
modulator and at the same time to the EGR valve.

The EGR vacuum modulator controls the EGR valve by modulating the vacuum signal with an atmospheric bleed. This bleed is controlled by the amount
of exhaust pressure acting on the bottom of the EGR vacuum modulator (diaphragm).

Since recirculation of exhaust gas is undesirable at low rpm or idle, the system limits itself by sensing the exhaust flow. Under low load conditions, such
as low speed driving, the exhaust pressure is low. In this state, the diaphragm in the modulator is pushed down by spring force and the modulator valve
opens to allow outside air into the vacuum passage. The vacuum in the line is reduced, the EGR valve does not open as far, and the amount of
recirculation is reduced.

Under high load conditions or high rpm driving, the exhaust pressure is increased. This pushes the modulator diaphragm upwards and closes the bleed
valve. A full vacuum signal is transmitted to the EGR valve; it opens completely and allows full recirculation. The slight reduction in combustion
temperature (and therefore power) is not noticed at highway speeds or under hard acceleration.

Prizm vehicles also control the EGR with a vacuum solenoid valve (VSV), 1989-92 or exhaust gas recirculation solenoid valve (EGR SV), 1993. These
devices allow the ECM to further control the EGR under certain conditions. The ECM will electrically close the VSV or EGR SV if the engine is not warmed
up, the throttle valve is in the idle position or if the engine is under very hard acceleration. Aside from these conditions, the Prizm EGR operates in
accordance with the normal vacuum modulator function.

TESTING AND SERVICING VIN CODE 4 (CARB.) ENGINE

EGR System Operation
See Figures 1 and 2

Fig. Fig. 1: EGR system components - 1985-88 VIN code 4 engine

1. Check and clean the filter in the EGR vacuum modulator. Use compressed air (if possible) to blow the dirt out of the filters and check the filters for
contamination or damage.
2. Using a tee (3-way connector), connect a vacuum gauge to the hose between the EGR valve and the vacuum pipe.
3. Check the seating of the EGR valve by starting the engine and seeing that it runs at a smooth idle. If the valve is not completely closed, the idle will
be rough.
4. With the engine coolant temperature below 122°F (50°C), the vacuum gauge should read zero at 2000 rpm. This indicates that the thermostatic
vacuum control valve (TVCV) is functioning correctly at this temperature range.
5. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Check the vacuum gauge and confirm low vacuum at 2000 rpm. This indicates the TVSV and
the EGR vacuum modulator are working correctly in this temperature range.

Fig. Fig. 2: EGR vacuum modulator filter

6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the R port on the EGR vacuum modulator and, using another piece of hose, connect the R port directly to the
intake manifold. Check that the vacuum gauge indicates high vacuum at 2,000 rpm.

As a large amount of exhaust gas enters, the engine will misfire slightly at this time.
 7. Disconnect the vacuum gauge and reconnect the vacuum hoses to their proper locations.
8. Check the EGR valve by applying vacuum directly to the valve with the engine at idle. (This may be accomplished by bridging vacuum directly from
the intake manifold or by using a hand-held vacuum pump.) The engine should falter and/or stall as the full load of recirculated gasses enters the
engine.
9. If no problem is found with this inspection, the system is OK; otherwise inspect each part.

Thermostatic Vacuum Switching Valve

See Figure 3

1. Drain the cooling system.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

2. Remove the thermostatic vacuum switching valve.

Fig. Fig. 3: Port identification for testing the TVSV. Make sure you label each hose during disassembly

3. Cool the thermostatic vacuum switching valve to below 45°F (7°C).

4. Check that air flows from pipe J to pipes M and L , and flows from pipe K to pipe N .
5. Heat the thermostatic vacuum switching valve to 63-122°F (17-50°C) generally room temperature).
6. Check that air flows from pipe K to pipes N and L and flows from pipe J to pipe M .
7. Heat the TVSV to above 154°F (68°C).
8. Check that air flows from the pipe K to pipes M and L , and does NOT flow from pipe J to any other pipes.
9. Apply liquid sealer to the threads of the TVSV and reinstall.
10. Refill the cooling system.
11. If a problem is found with any of the above procedures, replace the valve

EGR Valve

1. Remove the EGR valve.

2. Check the valve for sticking and heavy carbon deposits. If a problem is found, replace the valve.
3. Reinstall the EGR valve with a new gasket.
EGR Vacuum Modulator
See Figure 1

1. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses from ports P , Q , and R of the EGR vacuum modulator.
2. Plug the Q and R ports with your fingers.
3. Blow air into port P . Check that the air passes freely through the sides of the air filter side.
4. Start the engine and maintain 2,000 rpm.
5. Repeat the test above. Check that there is a strong resistance to air flow.
6. Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the proper locations.

Check Valve
See Figure 1

Inspect the check valve (1-way valve) by gently blowing air into each end of the valve or hose. Air should flow from the orange pipe to the black pipe but
SHOULD NOT flow from the black pipe to the orange pipe.

TESTING AND SERVICING 1988 & 1990 VIN CODE 5 ENGINES 1989-93 ALL
ENGINES
EGR System Check
1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE
See Figures 2, 4 and 5

1. Check and clean the filter in the EGR vacuum modulator. Use compressed air (if possible) to blow the dirt out of the filters and check the filters for
contamination or damage.
2. Using a tee (3-way connector), connect a vacuum gauge to the hose between the EGR valve and the vacuum pipe.
3. Check the seating of the EGR valve by starting the engine and seeing that it runs at a smooth idle. If the valve is not completely closed, the idle will
be rough.
4. With the engine coolant temperature below 95°F (35°C), the vacuum gauge should read zero at 3500 rpm. This indicates that the bimetal
vacuum switching valve (BVSV) is functioning correctly at this temperature range.
5. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Check the vacuum gauge and confirm low vacuum at 3500 rpm. This indicates the BVSV and
the EGR vacuum modulator are working correctly in this temperature range.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the R port on the EGR vacuum modulator and, using another piece of hose, connect the R port directly to the
intake manifold. Check that the vacuum gauge indicates high vacuum at 3500 rpm.

As a large amount of exhaust gas enters, the engine will misfire slightly at this time.

7. Disconnect the vacuum gauge and reconnect the vacuum hoses to their proper locations.
8. Check the EGR valve by applying vacuum directly to the valve with the engine at idle. (This may be accomplished by bridging vacuum directly from
the intake manifold or by using a hand-held vacuum pump.) The engine should falter and/or stall as the full load of recirculated gasses enters the
engine.
9. If no problem is found with this inspection, the system is OK; otherwise inspect each part.

Fig. Fig. 4: EGR system inspection, preparation - 1988 VIN code 5 engine
 Fig. Fig. 5: R port connected to the intake manifold - 1988 VIN code 5 engine

EGR Valve
1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE

1. Remove the EGR valve.

2. Check the valve for sticking and heavy carbon deposits. If a problem is found, replace the valve.
3. Reinstall the EGR valve with a new gasket.

1989-93 ALL ENGINES

1. Start the engine and allow it to warm up completely. The coolant temperature must be above 120°F (49°C). The following tests are performed
with the engine running.
2. Place a finger on the EGR valve diaphragm. Accelerate the engine slightly; the diaphragm should be felt to move.
3. Disconnect a vacuum hose from the EGR valve and connect a hand held vacuum pump.
4. Apply 10 inches of vacuum to the valve. The diaphragm should move (check again with your finger) and the engine may momentarily run rough or
stall.
5. An EGR valve failing either of these quick tests should be replaced. The valves cannot be cleaned or adjusted.

EGR VACUUM MODULATOR

1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE
See Figure 6

1. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses from ports P , Q , and R of the EGR vacuum modulator.
2. Plug the P and R ports with your fingers.
3. Blow air into port Q . Check that the air passes freely through the sides of the air filter.
4. Start the engine and maintain 3500 rpm.
5. Repeat the test above. Check that there is a strong resistance to air flow.
6. Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the proper locations.
 Fig. Fig. 6: EGR vacuum modulator test - 1988 VIN code 5 engine

1989-93 ALL ENGINES

See Figures 7 and 8

1. Label and remove the 3 hoses from the modulator.

2. Place your fingers over ports P and R ; blow into port Q . Air should flow freely from the sides of the air filter on the modulator.

Fig. Fig. 7: EGR vacuum modulator test - 1989-93

 Fig. Fig. 8: EGR vacuum modulator and EGR solenoid valve location - 1993

3. Connect a vacuum pump to port S (on the bottom of the unit) and plug tubes P and R with your fingers. Blow air into tube Q and attempt to draw a
vacuum with the pump. You SHOULD NOT be able to develop a vacuum within the system.
4. If the modulator fails any of these tests, it must be replaced.

Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV)

1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE
See Figures 9 and 10

1. The vacuum switching valve is located on the left strut tower. The vacuum switching circuit is checked by blowing air into the pipe under the
following conditions:

A. Connect the vacuum switching valve terminals to the battery.

B. Blow into the tube and check that the VSV switch is open.
C. Disconnect the positive battery terminal.
D. Blow into the tube and check that the VSV switch is closed (no flow).

Fig. Fig. 9: Vacuum switching valve battery connected - 1988 VIN code 5 engine
 2. Check for a short circuit within the valve. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the positive terminal and the VSV body. If
there is continuity, replace the VSV.
3. Check for an open circuit. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance (-) between the 2 terminals of the valve. The resistance should be 33-39- at
68°F (20°C). If the resistance is not within specifications, replace the VSV.

The resistance - ohmmage - will vary slightly with temperature. It will decrease in cooler temperatures and increase with heat. Use common sense; slight
variations due to temperature range are not necessarily a sign of a failed valve.

Fig. Fig. 10: Vacuum switching valve short circuit check - 1988 VIN code 5 engine

1989-92 ALL ENGINES

See Figure 11

1. Label and disconnect the 2 hoses from the VSV.

2. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the connector at the VSV.
3. Check the resistance between the 2 terminals on the VSV. Look for 33-39- resistance. If the resistance is incorrect, replace the unit. If the resistance
is proper, proceed with the next step.

Fig. Fig. 11: Vacuum switching valve - 1989-93 VIN code 5 engine

4. Gently blow air into port A . Air should come out through the filter but SHOULD NOT come out through port B .
5. Reconnect the electrical connector.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON (but don't start the motor) and ground the Diagnosis Switch Terminal. This is found in the diagnostic connector near the
air cleaner assembly and is labeled as terminal T . Use a jumper wire with clips to ground the terminal.

WARNING
Be careful not to ground other terminals in the connector (even accidentally) - severe electrical damage may result!
 7. Blow air into port A ; the air should exit through port B .
8. If the VSV fails either of the air flow tests, it should be replaced.

EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve (EGR SV)

1993 ALL ENGINES
See Figure 8

1. Label and disconnect the 2 hoses from the EGR SV.

2. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the connector at the EGR SV.
3. Check the resistance between the 2 terminals on the EGR SV. Look for 33-39- resistance. If the resistance is incorrect, replace the unit. If the
resistance is proper, proceed with the next step.
4. Gently blow air into port A . Air should come out through the filter but SHOULD NOT come out through port B .
5. Reconnect the electrical connector.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON (but don't start the motor).
7. Blow air into port A ; the air should exit through port B .
8. If the EGR SV fails either of the air flow tests, it should be replaced.

Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV)

1988 VIN CODE 5 ENGINE 1989-90 VIN CODE 6 ENGINES
See Figure 12

This valve does nothing more than allow vacuum to flow through the system depending on engine coolant temperature. The bimetallic element within
the switch reacts to temperature changes, opening or closing the valve at a pre-determined level. To test the valve:

1. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a suitable container.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

2. Label and disconnect the hoses from the BVSV.

3. Remove the valve from the intake manifold.
4. Using cool water, cool the threaded part of the valve to below 95°F (35°C). Blow air into the upper (center) port; there should be NO air passage
through the valve. It does not allow vacuum to pass until the engine warms up.
 Fig. Fig. 12: Testing the BVSV for correct function

5. Using warm water, heat the threaded part of the valve to above 122°F (50°C) and blow into the port again. The valve should allow the air to pass
through.
6. If a problem is found with either the ON or OFF functions of the valve, replace it with a new one.
7. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminal on the VSV. Resistance should be 33-39- at 68°F (20°C).
8. Apply liquid sealer to the threads of the BVSV and reinstall it. Connect the vacuum lines.
9. Refill the radiator with coolant.

COMPONENT REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Exhaust emission control equipment is generally simple to work on
and easy to get to on the motor. The air cleaner assembly will need to be removed. Always label each vacuum hose before removing it - they must be
replaced in the correct position.

Most of the valves and solenoids are made of plastic, particularly at the vacuum ports. Be very careful during removal not to break or crack the ports; you
have almost no chance of regluing a broken fitting. Remember that the plastic has been in a hostile environment (heat and vibration); the fittings
become brittle and less resistant to abuse or accidental impact.

EGR valves are generally held in place by 2 bolts. The bolts can be difficult to remove due to corrosion. Once the EGR is off the engine, clean the bolts
and the bolt holes of any rust or debris. Always replace the gasket any time the EGR valve is removed.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Feedback Carburetor System

Print
 OPERATION 1985-88 VIN code 4 engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

The Carburetor Feedback system is designed to keep the air/fuel ratio at an optimum 14.7:1 during normal operation; excluding warm-up and
acceleration.

This is a rather simple system. The carburetor is designed to run richer than it normally should. This sets up a rich limit of system operation. When a
leaner operation is desired, the computer (ECM) commands air to bleed into the carburetor's main metering system and into the carburetor's primary
bore. A lean operating condition is therefore easy to obtain.

The computer (ECM) receives information from the oxygen sensor, 2 vacuum switches and the distributor.

The output of the computer is a signal to the electric air bleed control valve (EBCV). When the EBCV is energized, it bleeds air into the main air bleed
circuit and into the slow air bleed port of the carburetor. This additional air leans the fuel mixture. When the EBCV is not energized, the air/fuel ratio
moves towards the rich limit.

With the engine running and the coolant temperature below 45°F (7°C), the thermostatic vacuum switch valve (TVSV) applies atmospheric pressure to
vacuum switch B by connecting ports J to L (of the TVSV). With these conditions, vacuum switch B is de-energized, the electric bleed control valve (EBCV)
is off (de-energized) and both air bleeds are off. The carburetor is therefore operating toward its rich limits, desirable on a cold motor. The computer will
not be controlling or influencing air/fuel ratio while the engine is cold.

When the coolant temperature rises above 60°F (16°C), with the engine operating between 1500 and 4200 rpm, the thermostatic vacuum switching
valve (TVSV) applies vacuum to vacuum switch B by connecting ports K to L of the TVSV.

Vacuum switch B closes, signaling the ECM. Vacuum switch A is closed (opens at high vacuum) also signaling the ECM. With these 2 switches closed, if
the oxygen sensor senses a rich condition in the exhaust (high voltage-1.0v), the ECM commands the electric bleed control valve to be energized,
bleeding air into the main metering system of the carburetor and the intake manifold. This action results in the air/fuel ratio becoming leaner.

Once the air/fuel ratio is detected as being too lean by the oxygen sensor (low voltage-0.1v), the ECM will de-energize the EBCV and close both bleed
ports. By shutting off the air, the mixture begins moving back towards the rich limit. The system is operating in the closed loop mode, during which it will
adjust itself and then react to the adjustments. It should be noted that to energize the electric bleed control valve (EBCV) the ECM completes its electrical
circuit on its ground side.

Fig. Fig. 1: Feedback carburetor component location

Fig. Fig. 2: Feedback carburetor system operation

 Fig. Fig. 3: Feedback carburetor system operation

TESTING
Carburetor Feedback System
See Figures 1 through 5

1. Check the TVSV with the engine cold. The coolant temperature must be below 45°F (7°C).
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum switch B . Start the engine and check no vacuum is felt in the disconnected vacuum hose.
3. Reconnect the vacuum hose and check the EBCV with the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature.
4. Disconnect the EBCV connector. Maintain an engine speed of approximately 2,500 rpm.
5. Reconnect the connector and check that the engine speed drops by about 300 rpm momentarily.

Fig. Fig. 4: EBCV and Vacuum switch

6. With the engine at idle, repeat the disconnect/reconnect test on the EBCV connector. Check that the engine speed does NOT change.
7. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum switch B . Repeat Steps 4 and 5 above. Check that the engine speed does not change.
8. If no problems are found with this inspection, the system is operating properly; otherwise inspect each component part.

Air Bleed Control Valve (EBCV)

1. Check for a short circuit. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the positive (+) terminal (the terminal closest to the lock
tab) and the EBCV body. If there is continuity, replace the EBCV.
2. Check for an open circuit. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive (+) terminal and the other terminal. The resistance
should be between 11-13- at 68°F (20°C). If the resistance is not within specification, replace the EBCV. Remember that the resistance will vary
slightly with temperature. Resistance (ohms) will decrease as the temperature drops. Use common sense here - a reading of 16 ohms on a hot day
does not necessarily indicate a failed valve.
Vacuum Switch A

1. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the switch terminal and the switch body.
2. Start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached.

Fig. Fig. 5: Vacuum switch A

3. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is NO continuity between the switch terminal and the switch body.
4. If either test is failed, replace the switch.

Vacuum Switch B

1. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is NO continuity between the switch terminal and the switch body.
2. Start the engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the switch terminal and the body.
4. If either test is failed, replace the switch.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Heat Control Valve

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

When the engine is cold, the heat control valve improves fuel vaporization for better driveability by quickly heating the intake manifold. Once the engine
has warmed up, it helps keep the intake manifold at proper temperature.

With the engine cold, the bimetal spring positions the heat control valve to direct some of the engine's hot exhaust gases under the intake manifold which
quickly bring it to the proper operating temperature.

Fig. Fig. 1: Heat control valve operation

 Fig. Fig. 2: Heat control valve operation chart

When the engine is hot, the bimetal spring contracts, moving the position of the heat control valve to direct most of the exhaust under the valve and
away from direct contact with the intake manifold.

TESTING
The valve within the exhaust system has a counterweight on the outside of the pipe. This counterweight is viewed most easily from
under the car. With the engine cold, check that the counterweight is in the upper position. After the engine has been warmed up, check that the weight
has moved to the lower position.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

High Altitude Compensation (HAC) System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

As altitude increases, air density decreases so that the air/fuel mixture becomes richer. (The same amount of fuel is mixing with less air so the percentage
of fuel is higher.) The high altitude compensation (HAC) system insures a proper air/fuel mixture by supplying additional air to the primary low and high
speed circuits of the carburetor and advancing the ignition timing to improve driveability at altitudes above 3930 feet. Above 3930 feet, the bellows in the
high altitude compensation valve is expanded which closes Port A .

With Port A closed, the manifold vacuum is allowed to act on the HAC diaphragm. The diaphragm opens Port B to the atmosphere (through the HAC
valve), allowing air to enter the carburetor's primary low and high speed fuel circuits. This same vacuum signal acts on the distributor sub-diaphragm
adding 8 degrees of timing advance.

At altitudes below 2,570 feet, the HAC bellows are contracted opening Port A . This vacuum signal with air reduces the vacuum to the distributor's sub-
diaphragm (no timing advance). With vacuum strength reduced, port B is closed allowing no air bleed into the carburetor's low and high speed circuits.

Fig. Fig. 1: High altitude compensation valve

 Fig. Fig. 2: High altitude compensation system components

TESTING
High Altitude Compensation System Operation

1. Check the HAC valve as follows:

A. Visually check and clean the air filter in the HAC valve.
B. At high altitude (above 3930 ft), blow into any 1 of the 2 ports on top of the HAC valve with the engine idling and check that the HAC valve is
open to the atmosphere.
C. At low altitude (below 2570 ft), blow into any 1 of the 2 ports on top of the HAC valve with the engine idling and check that the HAC valve is
closed.

2. Check the ignition timing as follows:

A. Disconnect the vacuum hose with the check valve from the distributor sub-diaphragm and plug the end of the hose.
B. Check the ignition timing. It should be a maximum of 5° BTDC at 950 rpm.
C. Reconnect the hose to the distributor sub-diaphragm.
D. Check the ignition timing. It should be about 13° BTDC at 950 rpm.

3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve at the back side and plug the end of the hose. Check that the ignition timing remains stable for
more than 1 minute.
4. Stop the engine and reconnect the hoses to their proper locations.
5. Disconnect the 2 hoses on the top of the HAC valve. Blow air into each hose and check that the air flows into the carburetor.
6. Reconnect the hoses to their proper locations.
7. Any component not opening or closing properly should be replaced.

Check Valve

1. Check the valve by blowing air into each pipe:

2. Check that air flows from the orange pipe to the black pipe.
3. Check that air does not flow from the black pipe to the orange pipe.

Distributor Vacuum Advance

Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Plug 1 port of the sub-diaphragm. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the diaphragm, checking that
the vacuum advance moves when the vacuum is applied. Reinstall the rotor and distributor cap.
 Fig. Fig. 3: High altitude compensation (HAC) system operation

Fig. Fig. 4: Distributor vacuum advance

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Hot Air Intake (HAI) System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

This system directs hot air to the carburetor in cold weather to improve driveability and to prevent carburetor icing. With the air temperature in the air
cleaner below 72°F (22°C), the atmospheric port in the hot idle compensation valve is closed, sending the full manifold vacuum signal to the hot air
intake (HAI) diaphragm. The HAI diaphragm moves, opening the air control valve which directs the heated air (from the exhaust manifold) into the air
cleaner.

Once the air cleaner temperature exceeds 84°F (29°C), the HIC atmospheric port is open allowing atmospheric pressure to act on the hot air intake
diaphragm. This keeps the air control valve closed, allowing the intake air to come directly down the air cleaner's snorkel from outside the car. This air is
always cooler than the air from around the exhaust manifold.

Fig. Fig. 1: Hot air intake system components

 TESTING
1. Remove the air cleaner cover and cool the HIC valve by blowing compressed air on it.
2. Check that the air control valve closes the cool air passages at idle.
3. Reinstall the air cleaner cover and warm up the engine.
4. Check that the air control valve opens the cool air passage at idle.
5. Visually check the hoses and connections for cracks, leaks or damage.

Fig. Fig. 2: Hot air intake system operation chart

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Hot Idle Compensation (HIC) System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

The Hot Idle Compensation (HIC) System allows the air controlled by the HIC valve to enter the intake manifold, maintaining proper air/fuel mixture
during idle at high temperatures. When the air cleaner temperature is below 72°F (22°C), the HIC valve's atmospheric port is closed. This allows
supplies intake manifold vacuum to the hot air intake (HAI) valve, allowing heated air to enter the air cleaner.

As the temperature in the air cleaner rises, the HIC valve will increase its opening to the atmosphere which, in turn, increases pressure on the diaphragm.
As the pressure increases the HAC valve will close more, pulling cooler (more dense) air into the carburetor.

When air cleaner temperatures are between 84°F (29°C) and 126°F (52°C), the HIC valve's atmospheric port opens slightly. This begins to increase
the pressure on the HAI diaphragm and its air control valve begins to close.

Fig. Fig. 1: HIC valve

 Fig. Fig. 2: HIC system operation

When intake air temperatures reach 138°F (59°C), both the atmospheric port and the vacuum port of the HIC valve open further. This action steadily
increases the pressure on HAI diaphragm and continues to close the air control valve, pulling more cool air into the carburetor. At the same time, the
opening of the vacuum port allows outside air to bleed into the intake manifold to maintain the proper air/fuel mixture during high temperature at idle.

Finally at temperatures above 192°F (89°C), the HIC valve's atmospheric and vacuum ports open fully, applying maximum pressure to the HAI
diaphragm and closing the air control valve completely. This allows the coolest possible air to enter the carburetor.

Fig. Fig. 3: HIC system operation chart

TESTING
1. Check that air flows from the HAI diaphragm side to the carburetor side while closing the atmospheric port.
2. Check that air does not flow from the carburetor side to the HAI diaphragm side.
3. Below 72°F (22°C), check that air does NOT flow from the HAI diaphragm side to the atmosphere port while closing the intake manifold side.
4. Heat the HIC valve to above 84°F (29°C).
5. Check that air flows from the HAI diaphragm side to the atmospheric port while closing the carburetor side.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Oxygen Sensor
The oxygen (O 2 ) sensor is located on the exhaust manifold to detect the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust gas. Using highly refined Print
metals (zirconia and platinum), the sensor uses changes in the oxygen content to generate an electrical signal which is transmitted to the
ECM. The computer in turn reacts to the signal by adjusting the fuel metering at the injectors or at the carburetor. More or less fuel is
delivered into the cylinders and the correct oxygen level is maintained.

TESTING
1985-88 VIN Code 4 Engine
See Figure 1

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Connect the voltmeter to the service connector. This round, green connector is located behind the right shock tower. Connect the positive probe to
the OX terminal and the negative probe to the E terminal.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Testing hook-up for the oxygen sensor - 1985-88 VIN code 4 engine

3. Run the engine at 2500 rpm for 90 seconds or more. This allows the sensor to achieve a stable temperature and the exhaust flow to stabilize.
4. Maintain the engine at 2500 rpm and check the meter. The meter needle should fluctuate at least 8 times in 10 seconds in the 0-6 volt range. This
indicates that the sensor is working properly.
5. If the sensor fails the test, perform a careful inspection of all the wiring and connectors in the system. A loose connection can cause the sensor to
fail this test. Repeat the voltage test after the inspection.

1988 VIN Code 5 Engine

See Figure 2

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Connect the voltmeter to the check connector. Hook the negative probe to terminal VF and the positive probe to terminal E1 .

Fig. Fig. 2: Testing hook-up for the oxygen sensor - 1988 VIN code 5 engine

3. Run the engine at 2500 rpm for at least 90 seconds.

4. With the engine speed being maintained at 2500 rpm, use a jumper wire to connect terminals T and E1 at the check connector.
5. Watch the voltmeter and note the number of times the needle fluctuates in 10 seconds. If it moves 8 times or more, the sensor is working properly.

A. If the needle moves less than 8 times but more than zero, disconnect the terminal T-to-E1 jumper. Still maintaining 2500 rpm, measure the
voltage between terminals E1 and VF . If the voltage is above zero, replace the oxygen sensor. If the voltage is zero, read and record the
diagnostic codes (refer to Check Engine Light and Diagnostic Codes later in this Section) and repair the necessary items.
B. If the needle does not move at all (zero), read and record the trouble codes and repair the affected system.

Perform a careful inspection of all the wiring and connectors in the system. A loose connection can cause the sensor to fail these tests. Repeat the
voltage test after the inspection. (Refer to Check Engine Light and Diagnostic Codes later in this Section.)
1989-93 Engines
For oxygen sensor diagnostic testing on these engines, please refer the appropriate code charts at the end of this Section.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING
Care should be used during the removal of the oxygen sensor. Both the sensor and its wire can be easily damaged.

1. The best condition in which to remove the sensor is with the engine in a mid-warm state. This is generally achieved after 2 to 5 minutes (depending
on outside temperature) of running after a cold start. The exhaust manifold has developed enough heat to expand and make the removal easier
but is not so hot that it has become untouchable.Wearing heat resistant gloves is highly recommended during this repair.
2. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the wiring for the sensor.
3. Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the manifold.

Special wrenches, either socket or open-end, are available from reputable retail outlets for removing the oxygen sensor. These tools make the job much
easier and often prevent unnecessary damage.

4. During and after the removal, use great care to protect the tip of the sensor if it is to be reused. Do not allow it to come in contact with fluids or dirt.
Do not attempt to clean it or wash it.
5. When re-installing, apply a coat of anti-seize compound to the threads but DO NOT allow any to get on the tip of the sensor. This includes any
accidental or momentary contact from rags, etc..

Most replacement sensors come with the compound already on the threads. Do not remove it or try to clean it. On these sensors, application of anti-seize
compound is not necessary.

6. Install the sensor in the manifold. Tighten it to 30 ft. lbs.

7. Reconnect the electrical connector and insure a clean, tight connection.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System

SYSTEM OPERATION Print

See Figures 1 through 5

A closed positive crankcase ventilation system is used on all Nova and Prizm models. This system cycles incompletely burned fuel which works its way
past the piston rings back into the intake manifold for reburning with the fuel/air mixture. The oil filler cap is sealed and the air is drawn from the top of
the crankcase into the intake manifold through a valve with a variable orifice.

This valve (commonly known as the PCV valve) regulates the flow of air into the manifold according to the amount of manifold vacuum. When the throttle
plates are open fairly wide, the valve fully. However, at idle speed, when the manifold vacuum is at maximum, the PCV valve reduces the flow in order
not to unnecessarily affect the small volume of mixture passing into the engine.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Positive crankcase ventilation system - 1985-88 VIN code 4 engine

Fig. Fig. 2: Positive crankcase ventilation system - 1988 and 1990-91 VIN code 5 engine

During most driving conditions, manifold vacuum is high and all of the vapor from the crankcase, plus a small amount of excess air, is drawn into the
manifold via the PCV valve. At full throttle, the increase in the volume of blow-by and the decrease in manifold vacuum make the flow via the PCV valve
inadequate. Under these conditions, excess vapors are drawn into the air cleaner and pass into the engine along with the fresh air.

A plugged valve or hose may cause a rough idle, stalling or low idle speed, oil leaks in the engine and/or sludging and oil deposits within the engine and
air cleaner. A leaking valve or hose could cause an erratic idle or stalling.

Fig. Fig. 3: Positive crankcase ventilation system - 1989-90

 Fig. Fig. 4: Positive crankcase ventilation system - 1991 VIN code 6 and 1992 VIN code 5 and 6 engines

Fig. Fig. 5: Positive crankcase ventilation system - 1993

TESTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING

See Figure 6

The PCV is easily checked with the engine running at normal idle speed (warmed up). Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover or intake manifold, but
leave it connected to its hose. Place your thumb over the end of the valve to check for vacuum. If there is no vacuum, check for plugged hoses or ports.
If these are open, the valve is faulty. With the engine off, remove the PCV valve completely. Shake it end to end, listening for the rattle of the needle
inside the valve. If no rattle is heard, the needle is jammed (probably with oil sludge) and the valve should be replaced.

An engine which is operated without crankcase ventilation can be damaged very quickly. It is important to check and change the PCV valve at regular
maintenance intervals.
 Fig. Fig. 6: Cross section of typical PCV valve. The valve should rattle when shaken

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover or intake manifold. Remove the hose from
the valve. Take note of which end of the valve was in the manifold. This 1-way valve must be reinstalled correctly or it will not function. While the valve is
removed, the hoses should be checked for splits, kinks and blockages. Check the vacuum port (that the hoses connect to) for any clogging.

Remember that the correct function of the PCV system is based on a sealed engine - an air leak at the oil filler cap and/or around the oil pan can defeat
the design of the system.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Throttle Positioner System

OPERATION Print

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

To reduce HC and CO emissions, the throttle positioner (TP) opens the throttle valve to slightly more than the idle position when decelerating. This keeps
the air/ fuel ratio from becoming excessively rich when the throttle valve is quickly closed. In addition, the TP is used to increase idle rpm when power
steering fluid pressure exceeds a calibrated value and/or when a large electrical load is placed on the electrical system (headlights, rear defogger etc.).

With the engine idling and an electrical load energized, the vacuum switching valve (VSV) is energized. This directs atmospheric pressure through the
VSV to the rear TP diaphragm (A). The action of the spring on the diaphragm is transmitted to the push rod. This causes the throttle valve to open slightly
and increase engine rpm. If all of the heavy electrical loads are off, the VSV is off, maintaining vacuum on the diaphragm and preventing the push rod
from moving.

Fig. Fig. 1: Throttle positioner component location

Vacuum from the TP port of the carburetor acts on a second diaphragm (B), closing the throttle valve. With the vehicle cruising, the vacuum signal in
both chambers is low which maintains the TP in its high speed (open) position. However, when the vehicle is decelerated, vacuum on diaphragm A
increases quickly which closes the throttle valve somewhat.

The delay action of the vacuum transmitting valve makes the vacuum increase on diaphragm B occur slowly which allows the throttle valve to close at a
controlled rate. This slow closing prevents the radical change in emissions caused by the throttle valve slamming shut as the driver suddenly lifts
completely off the accelerator, such as when going down a steep hill or preparing to use the brakes.

In the event that power steering pressure exceeds a calibrated value, (such as in a full-lock turn while parking) atmospheric pressure is pulled into
chamber A causing diaphragm A to move, increasing rpm. This compensates for the power steering system dragging down the idle speed as it delivers
needed fluid pressure.

TESTING
Throttle Positioner System Operation

Fig. Fig. 2: Throttle positioner operation

1. Start the engine and warm up to normal operating temperature.

2. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary.
3. Disconnect the hose from the TVSV M port and plug the M port. This will shut off the choke opener and EGR system.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose from TP diaphragm A . Check that the TP is set at the first step (electrical load idle up). Throttle Positioner at the first
setting speed:

Manual Trans: 800 rpm

Auto. Trans: 900 rpm

If not at the specified speed, adjust the speed with the adjusting screw.

The adjustment should be made with the cooling fan (at the radiator) OFF.

5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle positioner diaphragm B and plug the end of the hose.
6. Check that the throttle positioner is set at the second step. The setting speed with the throttle positioner on the second step should be as follows:

Manual Trans: 1,300 plus or minus 200 rpm

Auto. Trans: 1,400 plus or minus 200 rpm

7. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the throttle positioner diaphragm B and check that the engine returns to the first step setting speed within 2-6
seconds.
8. Reconnect the vacuum hose to diaphragm A .
9. Reconnect the hose to the TVSV M port.

Vacuum Delay Valve

1. Check that air flows without resistance from B to A .

2. Check that air flows with difficulty from A to B .
 Fig. Fig. 3: Checking the vacuum delay valve

Fig. Fig. 4: Throttle positioner operation chart

3. If a problem is found, replace the vacuum delay valve.

When replacing the vacuum delay valve, side

A should face the throttle positioner.

Vacuum Switching Valve

With the engine at idling at normal operating temperature, turn on the high beam headlights. The throttle positioner should move to the first step
positions and the idle should increase slightly.

Power Steering Idle-Up Switch

With the engine at idling at normal operating temperature, turn the steering wheel until the wheels are against their stops. Hold the wheels against the
stops and check that the throttle positioner moves to the first position. The idle should increase slightly.

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Fuel System

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Electric Fuel Pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

The electric fuel pump used on fuel injected Nova and Prizm cars is contained
within the fuel tank. On 1988-92 models it cannot be removed without removing the tank from the car.

Before removing fuel system parts, clean them with a spray-type engine cleaner. Follow the instructions on the cleaner. Do not soak fuel system parts in
liquid cleaning solvent.

CAUTION
The fuel injection system is under pressure. Refer to the procedure above and release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open
flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.
1988-92
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier.

2. Using a siphon or pump, drain the fuel from the tank and store it in a proper metal container with a tight cap.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion to gain access to the electrical wiring.
4. Disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit wiring at the connector.
5. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on jackstands.
6. Loosen the clamp and remove the filler neck and overflow pipe from the tank.
7. Remove the supply hose from the tank. Wrap a rag around the fitting to collect escaping fuel. Disconnect the breather hose from the tank, again
using a rag to control spillage.
8. Cover or plug the end of each disconnected line to keep dirt out and fuel in.
9. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack or transmission jack. Use a broad piece of wood to distribute the load. Be careful not to deform the bottom of
the tank.
10. Remove the fuel tank support strap bolts.
11. Swing the straps away from the tank and lower the jack. Balance the tank with your other hand or have a helper assist you. The tank is bulky and
may have some fuel left in it. If its balance changes suddenly, the tank may fall.
12. Remove the fuel filler pipe extension, the breather pipe assembly and the sending unit assembly. Keep these items in a clean, protected area away
from the car.
13. To remove the electric fuel pump:

A. Disconnect the 2 pump-to-harness wires.

B. Loosen the pump outlet hose clamp at the bracket pipe.
C. Remove the pump from the bracket and the outlet hose from the bracket pipe.
D. Separate the outlet hose and the filter from the pump.

14. While the tank is out and disassembled, inspect it for any signs of rust, leakage or metal damage. If any problem is found, replace the tank. Clean
the inside of the tank with water and a light detergent and rinse the tank thoroughly several times.
15. Inspect all of the lines, hoses and fittings for any sign of corrosion, wear or damage to the surfaces. Check the pump outlet hose and the filter for
restrictions.

To install:

16. When reassembling, ALWAYS replace the sealing gaskets with new ones. Also replace any rubber parts showing any sign of deterioration.
17. Assemble the outlet hose and filter onto the pump; then attach the pump to the bracket.
18. Connect the outlet hose clamp to the bracket pipe and connect the pump wiring to the harness wire.
19. Install the fuel pump and bracket assembly onto the tank.
20. Install the sending unit assembly.
21. Connect the breather pipe assembly and the filler pipe extension.

Tighten the breather pipe screw to 17 inch lbs. and all other attaching screws to 30 inch lbs.

22. Place the fuel tank on the jack and elevate it into place within the car. Attach the straps and install the strap bolts, tightening them to 29 ft. lbs.
23. Connect the breather hose to the tank pipe, the return hose to the tank pipe and the supply hose to its tank pipe. tighten the supply hose fitting to
21 ft. lbs.
24. Connect the filler neck and overflow pipe to the tank. Make sure the clamps are properly seated and secure.
25. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
26. Connect the pump and sending unit electrical connectors to the harness.
27. Install the rear seat cushion.
28. Using a funnel, pour the fuel that was drained from its container into the fuel filler.
29. Install the fuel filler cap.
30. Start the engine and check carefully for any sign of leakage around the tank and lines.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Fuel tank components - 1988 VIN Code 5 engine (Nova)

Fig. Fig. 2: Fuel tank components - 1989-92

1993
See Figures 3, 4 and 5

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier.

2. Using a siphon or pump, drain the fuel from the tank and store it in a proper metal container with a tight cap.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion as outlined in Routine Maintenance 0 to gain access to the service hole.
4. Remove the 4 screws and remove the service hole cover.
5. Disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit wiring at the connector.
6. Remove the 1 nut and disconnect the fuel feed hose from the sender assembly.
7. Remove the 1 clamp and disconnect the fuel return hose from the sender assembly.
8. Remove the 8 bolts and remove the fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank.
9. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel pump bracket by pulling off the lower side of the fuel pump from the bracket.
10. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
11. Remove the rubber cushion from the fuel pump.
12. Remove the 1 clamp and disconnect the fuel pump strainer from the pump.

To install:

13. Install the 1 clamp and connect the fuel pump strainer to the pump.
14. Install the rubber cushion to the fuel pump.
15. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector.
16. Install the fuel pump to the fuel pump bracket.
17. Install the 8 bolts and install the fuel sender assembly to the fuel tank. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
18. Install the 1 clamp and connect the fuel return hose to the sender assembly.
19. Install the 1 nut and connect the fuel feed hose to the sender assembly. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
20. Connect the fuel pump electrical connector.
21. Install the 4 screws and install the service hole cover.
22. Install the rear seat cushion as outlined in Routine Maintenance 0 .
23. Refill the tank.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 3: Fuel tank components - 1993

 Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the floor service hole cover - 1993

Fig. Fig. 5: Removing the fuel pump and strainer - 1993

TESTING
1988
See Figure 6

Since the fuel pump is concealed within the tank, it is difficult to test directly at the pump. It is possible to test the pump from under the hood, listening
for pump function and feeling the fuel delivery lines for the build-up of pressure.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the motor.
2. Using a jumper wire, short both terminals of the fuel pump check connector. The check connector is located under the hood near the wiper motor.
Connect the terminals labeled FP and +B .
 Fig. Fig. 6: Checking the electric fuel pump at the check connector

3. Check that there is pressure in the hose running to the delivery pipe. You should hear fuel pressure noise and possibly hear the pump at the rear of
the car.
4. Remove the jumper wire.
5. Turn the ignition to OFF. If the fuel pump failed to function, it may indicate a faulty pump, but before removing the tank and pump, check the
following items within the pump system:

A. the fusible link

B. fuses (EFI/15 amp and IGN/7.5 amp)
C. fuel injection main relay
D. fuel pump circuit opening relay
E. all wiring connections and grounds.

1989-93
For fuel pump electrical and pressure test on 1989-93 models, please refer to the Fuel System Diagnostic Charts at the end of this section.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Fuel Injection Sensors and Controls

Print

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Before disconnecting any fuel lines or components release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier in this section.
Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988 VIN Code 5 Engines
COLD START INJECTOR
See Figure 1

1. Test the resistance of the cold start injector before removing it. Disconnect its electrical lead and use an ohmmeter to measure resistance between
the terminals. Correct resistance is 3-5 ohms allow for slight variations due to temperature.
2. If the injector must be replaced, release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the wiring connector at the injector if not already done for testing purposes.

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.
 4. Wrap the fuel pipe connection in a rag or towel. Remove the 2 union bolts and the cold start injector pipe with its gaskets. Loosen the union bolts at
the other end as necessary.
5. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the cold start injector with its gaskets.
6. When reinstalling, always use a new gasket for the injector. Install it with the injector and tighten the 2 mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (84 inch lbs.).
7. Again using new gaskets, connect the cold start injector pipe to the delivery pipe (fuel rail) and to the cold start injector. Tighten the bolts to 13 ft.
lbs.
8. Install the wiring to the cold start injector.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Fig. Fig. 1: Cold start injector electrical schematic

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

See Figure 2

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the vacuum sensing hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

3. Remove the fuel hose from the regulator.

Fig. Fig. 2: Location of fuel pressure regulator

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and pull the regulator out of the fuel rail.
5. When reinstalling, the 2 retaining bolts are tightened to 5.5 ft. lbs. (65 inch lbs) Connect the 2 hoses (fuel and vacuum).
 6. Start the engine and check carefully for leaks.

MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR

See Figures 3, 4 and 5

The mass air flow sensor communicates with the ECM about the amount of air being taken into the engine. The intake air flow moves a trap door which is
connected to a potentiometer. This variable load switch controls the amount of electricity sent to the ECM. Depending on the signal received, the ECM
governs the fuel injectors to deliver the proportionally correct amount of fuel into the engine. The air box must be handled carefully during testing and/or
replacement.

1. Unplug the wiring connector at the mass air flow sensor.

2. Using an ohmmeter and the chart, measure the resistance between the terminals as indicated. The sensor must pass ALL tests; if any one is failed,
the air sensor must be replaced. Note that the temperature related reading is measured in kilo-ohms. Don't forget to reset the meter to a higher
scale.
3. If replacement is needed, label and disconnect the vacuum lines running to the sensor.
4. Remove the air cleaner hose.
5. Disconnect the wiring connector if not already done for testing purposes.
6. Remove the 4 nuts and the mass air flow sensor and its gasket.
7. When reinstalling, make absolutely sure that the air sensor and its gasket are correctly positioned. No air leaks are acceptable. Install and tighten
the 4 nuts.
8. Install the wiring connector, the air cleaner hose and the vacuum hoses.

Fig. Fig. 3: Resistance chart for testing the mass air flow sensor
 Fig. Fig. 4: Mass air flow sensor schematic (above) and terminal identification

Fig. Fig. 5: Removing the mass air flow sensor (A)

THROTTLE BODY
See Figures 6, 7, 8 and 9

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable. Either drain the coolant from the throttle body by disconnecting a
coolant hose or open the engine draincock until the fluid level is reduced.

WARNING
Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care
must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.

2. Disconnect the throttle return spring.

3. Disconnect the throttle cable.
4. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses.
5. Carefully remove the throttle potion sensor wiring connector.
6. Remove the air cleaner hose.
7. Remove the water hoses from the air valve.
8. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts and the throttle body with its gasket.
9. Wash and clean the cast metal parts with a soft brush and carburetor cleaner. Use compressed air to blow through all the passages and openings.
10. Check the throttle valve to see that there is NO clearance between the stop screw and the throttle lever when the throttle plate is fully closed.
11. Check the throttle position sensor (TPS). Insert a 0.47mm feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the lever. Connect an ohmmeter
between terminal IDL and E 2 . Loosen the 2 screws holding the TPS and gradually turn the TPS clockwise until the ohmmeter deflects, but no more.
Secure the TPS screws at this point. Double check the clearance at the lever and stop screw.Additional resistance tests may be made on the TPS
using the chart.

To install:

12. Place a new gasket in position and install the throttle body with its 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Make certain everything is properly positioned before
securing the unit. Tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs.
13. Connect the water hoses to the air valve.
14. Install the air cleaner hose and the vacuum hoses.
15. Connect the wiring to the throttle position sensor.
16. Connect the accelerator cable and its return spring.
17. Refill the coolant to the proper level.

Fig. Fig. 6: Throttle body assembly. Arrow indicates throttle position sensor
 Fig. Fig. 7: Checking the throttle valve

Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting the throttle position sensor

Fig. Fig. 9: Throttle position sensor resistance check

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI) MAIN RELAY

See Figure 10

1. The relay is located under the hood, behind the left headlight area. Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine and listen for a noise from the
relay.
2. Turn the ignition off and remove the connector from the relay. Using the ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminals 1 and 3 .
3. Check that there is NO continuity between terminals 2 and 4 .
 Fig. Fig. 10: Testing the EFI main relay

4. Check that there is NO continuity between terminals 3 and 4 .

5. If the relay fails ANY of these tests, replace it.

CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY

See Figure 11

1. The relay is located behind the lower center of the dashboard, adjacent to the ECM. With the ignition off, unplug the connector and use an
ohmmeter to check for continuity between terminals STA and E .
2. Check that there is continuity between terminals B and Fc .

Fig. Fig. 11: Checking continuity on the circuit opening relay

3. Check that there is NO continuity between terminals B and Fp .

4. If the relay fails any test, it must be replaced.

START INJECTOR TIME SWITCH

See Figure 12

1. Remove the connector at the switch.

2. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between terminals STA and STJ . Refer to the chart for the proper values.

Fig. Fig. 12: Resistance chart for checking the start injector time switch sensor
 3. If the time switch is to be replaced, drain the coolant from the system.

WARNING
Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care
must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.

4. Remove the switch and its gasket.

5. Install the new switch with a new gasket and tighten it to 25 ft. lbs.
6. Refill the coolant and attach the wiring connector to the switch.

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

See Figure 13

1. Disconnect the wiring to the sensor.

2. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the terminals of the sensor. Refer to the chart for the correct resistance values. Note that the
resistance will change as a function of the coolant temperature, not the air temperature.

Fig. Fig. 13: Resistance chart for testing the water temperature sensor

3. If the sensor must be changed, the coolant must be drained. Do this only with the engine cold.

WARNING
Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care
must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.

4. Using the correct size wrench, remove the sensor by unscrewing it. Install the new sensor and tighten it.
5. Refill the coolant to the proper level.
6. Connect the wiring to the sensor.

1989-90 VIN Code 6 Engines

COLD START INJECTOR
See Figure 14

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the wiring at the injector.
3. Loosen and remove the fuel line at the injector.
WARNING
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the injector.

5. When reinstalling, position the new injector in the intake manifold, install the retaining bolts and tighten them to 7 ft. lbs. (84 inch lbs.)
6. Connect the fuel line, then connect the wiring harness to the injector.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 14: Location of electronic components - 1989-90 VIN Code 6 engine

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

See Figures 14 and 15

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
 Fig. Fig. 15: Fuel pressure regulator

3. Disconnect the fuel return line from the regulator.

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the fuel pressure regulator.
5. When reinstalling, place the new regulator on the fuel rail, install the bolts and tighten them to 7 ft. lbs. (84 inch lbs.).
6. Connect the fuel return line, making sure the clamp is properly placed and secure.
7. Connect the vacuum hose, then connect the negative battery cable.

THROTTLE BODY
See Figures 14 and 16

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the throttle switch.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the throttle cable bracket.
5. If so equipped, remove the transaxle shift cable (automatic transmission) and/or the cruise control cable.
6. Label and remove the vacuum hoses to the throttle body.
7. Remove the vacuum hose to the air valve.
8. Remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and carefully remove the throttle body.
9. When reinstalling, always use a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake. Do not use sealants of any kind on the gasket. Place the
throttle body in position, install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 16 ft. lbs. Make very certain that the throttle body is properly placed before
tightening the bolts; no air leaks are acceptable.
10. Install the throttle cable and its bracket.
11. If so equipped, reattach the transaxle cable and/or the cruise control cable.
12. Connect the vacuum hose to the air valve.
13. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body.
14. Connect the electrical connector to the throttle switch and install the air cleaner and duct assembly.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
 Fig. Fig. 16: Throttle body assembly with throttle switch

THROTTLE SWITCH ADJUSTMENT

See Figures 16 and 17

This procedure may be performed on the car; removal of the throttle body is not required.

1. With the ignition OFF , remove the electrical connector from the throttle switch.
2. Loosen the 2 small bolts holding the switch to the throttle body. Loosen them just enough to allow the switch to be moved if necessary, but no
more.
3. Insert a 0.0276 in (0.70mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever. Connect an ohmmeter between terminals IDL and
E2 on the switch.

Fig. Fig. 17: Adjusting the throttle switch

 4. Gradually turn the switch clockwise until the meter deflects, showing continuity; secure the sensor with the 2 screws.
5. Remove the feeler gauge and insert another of 0.80mm. The ohmmeter should show NO continuity with the larger gauge inserted.
6. Adjust the switch as necessary to gain the correct function for each feeler gauge. Tighten the screws when the correct position is achieved.
7. Connect the wiring harness to the throttle switch

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

See Figure 18

Located on the firewall, this sensor advises the ECM of pressure changes in the intake manifold. It consists of a semi-conductor pressure converting
element which converts a pressure change into an electrical signal. The ECM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor; the change in air
pressure changes the resistance within the sensor. The ECM reads the change from its reference voltage and signals the injectors to react accordingly.

Fig. Fig. 18: Cross section of MAP sensor

Replacing the MAP sensor simply requires disconnecting the vacuum hose and the electrical connector, and unbolting the sensor from the firewall.
Inspect the vacuum hose over its entire length for any signs of cracking or splitting. The slightest leak can cause false messages to be send to the ECM.

MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (MAT) SENSOR

See Figure 14

The MAT sensor advises the ECM of changes in intake air temperature (and therefore air density). As air temperature of the intake varies, the ECM, by
monitoring the voltage change, adjusts the amount of fuel injection according to the air temperature.

To replace the MAT sensor:

1. Remove the air cleaner cover.

2. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the electrical connector.
3. Push the MAT sensor out from inside the air cleaner housing.
4. Install the new sensor, making sure it is properly placed and secure.
5. Connect the wiring harness, and replace the air cleaner cover.

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

See Figure 19

The coolant temperature sensor is located under the air cleaner assembly and behind the distributor. Its function is to advise the ECM of changes in
engine temperature by monitoring the changes in coolant temperature. The sensor must be handled carefully during removal. It can be damaged
(thereby affecting engine performance) by impact.
 Fig. Fig. 19: Coolant temperature sensor. Remember to coat the threads with sealant before reassembly

The sensor may be tested following the procedures listed previously for the 1988 VIN Code 5 engine. The temperature and resistance chart is the same. If
the sensor must be replaced:

WARNING
Perform this procedure only on a cold engine.

1. Relieve the pressure within the cooling system. It may be helpful to partially drain the block to lower the coolant level.

WARNING
Housepets and small animals are attracted to the odor and taste of engine coolant (antifreeze). It is a highly poisonous mixture of chemicals; special care
must be taken to protect open containers and spillage.

2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

3. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the electrical connector to the coolant temperature sensor.
4. Using the proper sized wrench, carefully unscrew the sensor from the engine.
5. Before reinstalling, coat the threads of the sensor with a sealant. Install the sensor and tighten it to 18 ft. lbs.
6. Reconnect the electrical connector. Install the air cleaner assembly.
7. Refill the coolant to the proper level.

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI) MAIN RELAY

See Figures 20 and 21

1. The EFI relay is located on the fuse block (junction block) under the hood behind the left headlight. Test the function of the relay by turning the
ignition ON and listening or feeling the relay. An operation noise should be heard (or felt) from the relay.
2. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the connector from the relay and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between relay terminals 3 and 4.
 Fig. Fig. 20: Continuity check, EFI relay

Fig. Fig. 21: Function check, EFI relay

3. There should be NO continuity between terminals 1 and 2. If the relay fails either of these tests, replace it.
4. Using jumper wires, connect battery voltage across terminals 3 and 4 (Connect the battery positive (+) to terminal 4) and check terminals 1 and 2
for continuity. With 12 volts applied, continuity should be present.
5. Reinstall the relay in place.

CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY

See Figures 22 and 23

1. Remove the ECM cover under the center console. Remove the circuit opening relay and its wiring.
2. With the ignition OFF , disconnect the relay.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals STA and E1 .
4. Check that there is continuity between terminals B and FC .
5. Check that there is NO continuity between terminals B and FP . If the relay fails any of these checks, it must be replaced.

Fig. Fig. 22: Checking continuity of the circuit opening relay

6. Using jumper wires, connect the battery positive (+) terminal to terminal STA and the battery negative terminal to terminal E1 . Use the ohmmeter
to check that there is now continuity between terminals B and FP .
7. Change the jumper wires so that the positive terminal connects to terminal B and the negative connects to terminal FC . Check that there is now
continuity between terminals B and FP .
8. If the relay fails either of these functional tests, it must be replaced.
 Fig. Fig. 23: Checking the function of the circuit opening relay

1990-92 VIN Code 5 & 6 Engine

COLD START INJECTOR

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the wiring at the injector.
3. Loosen and remove the fuel line at the injector.

WARNING
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the injector.

5. When reinstalling, position the new injector in the intake manifold, install the retaining bolts and tighten them to 82 inch lbs. (9.3 Nm).
6. Connect the fuel line, then connect the wiring harness to the injector.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

See Figure 24
 Fig. Fig. 24: Fuel rail and injectors - 1991-92

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
3. Disconnect the fuel return line from the regulator.

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the fuel pressure regulator.
5. When reinstalling, place the new regulator on the fuel rail, install the bolts and tighten them to 82 inch lbs. (9.3 ft. lbs.).
6. Connect the fuel return line, making sure the clamp is properly placed and secure.
7. Connect the vacuum hose, then connect the negative battery cable.

THROTTLE BODY
See Figures 25 and 26

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the throttle switch.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the throttle cable bracket.
5. If so equipped, remove the transaxle shift cable (automatic transmission) and/or the cruise control cable.
6. Label and remove the vacuum hoses to the throttle body.
7. Remove the vacuum hose to the air valve.
8. Remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and carefully remove the throttle body.
 9. When reinstalling, always use a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake. Do not use sealants of any kind on the gasket. Place the
throttle body in position, install the 4 bolts and tighten them to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Make very certain that the throttle body is properly placed
before tightening the bolts; no air leaks are acceptable.
10. Install the throttle cable and its bracket.
11. If so equipped, reattach the transaxle cable and/or the cruise control cable.
12. Connect the vacuum hose to the air valve.
13. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body.
14. Connect the electrical connector to the throttle switch and install the air cleaner and duct assembly.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 25: Throttle body assembly - VIN Code 5 engine

 Fig. Fig. 26: Throttle body assembly - VIN Code 6 engine

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

See Figure 27

VIN Code 5 Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the electrical connection for sensor.
3. Remove the 2 screws and remove the sensor.

To install:

4. Check that the throttle valve is fully closed.

5. Place the sensor on the throttle body. Turn the sensor clockwise and install the 2 screws loosely.
6. Adjust the throttle position sensor. Insert a 0.35mm or 0.0138 inch feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the lever. Connect an
ohmmeter between terminals IDL and E 2 . There should be continuity.
7. Insert a 0.39 mm (0.0232 inch) feeler gauge. There should be no continuity. Rotate the TPS as necessary, to adjust. Secure the TPS screws at this
point.
8. Reconnect electrical connector. Start engine and check for proper operation.
 Fig. Fig. 27: Throttle position sensor adjustment - VIN Code 5 engine

THROTTLE SWITCH (TS)

See Figures 28 and 29

VIN Code 6 Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect switch connector.
3. Hold the throttle valve opening angle at 45 degrees. Remove the 2 screws and remove the switch.

To install:

4. Place the throttle switch over the throttle valve shaft in correct alignment.
5. Install the 2 screws. Adjust the throttle switch. Insert a 0.70mm or 0.0276 in. feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the lever. Connect
an ohmmeter between terminal IDL and E 2 . There should be continuity.
6. Insert a 0.80 mm (0.0315 inch) feeler gauge. There should be no continuity. Rotate the switch as necessary to adjust. Secure the switch screws at
this point.
7. Reconnect electrical connector. Start engine and check for proper operation.

Fig. Fig. 28: Throttle switch - VIN Code 6 engine

 Fig. Fig. 29: Throttle switch adjustment - VIN Code 6 engine

AUXILIARY AIR VALVE

VIN Code 5 Engine

1. Remove the throttle body.

2. Remove the retaining screws and remove the air valve. Remove the O-ring and gasket.
3. Use a new O-ring and/or gasket; install the air valve to the throttle body.
4. Reinstall the throttle body.

AIR VALVE
See Figure 30

VIN Code 6 Engine

1. Remove the throttle body as outlined earlier in this section.

2. Remove the retaining screws and remove the air valve. Remove the O-ring and gasket.
3. Use a new O-ring and/or gasket; install the air valve to the throttle body.
4. Reinstall the throttle body.
 Fig. Fig. 30: Air valve - VIN Code 6 engine

DASH POT REPLACEMENT

See Figure 31

1. Remove the 2 retaining screws and remove the dashpot from the throttle body.
2. Installation is the reverse of removal.
3. Adjust the dashpot may be adjusted

Fig. Fig. 31: Dash pot location

DASH POT ADJUSTMENT

See Figure 32

1. Run engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Check engine idle speed and adjust if necessary. Idle speed adjustment is 800 rpm (VIN 5), 700 rpm (VIN 6) in NEUTRAL , manual transaxle, and
800 rpm (VIN 5), 700 rpm (VIN 6) in DRIVE , automatic transaxle.
3. Connect a tachometer to IG terminal of the check connector.
4. Jumper terminal TE1 to E1 (VIN 6) of the check connector.
5. Disconnect the EGR VSV connector (VIN 6) (California Only).
6. Remove dash pot cap and filter and separator.
7. Maintain engine speed at 2,500 rpm (VIN 5), 3,000 rpm (VIN 6), and plug the VTV hole in dash pot.
8. Release the throttle valve and check dash pot rpm setting. Dash pot setting speed is 1,800 rpm (VIN 5), 1,500 rpm (VIN 6). If not within
specifications, adjust the stop screw on the throttle shaft.
9. With dash pot rpm set, remove plug from VTV hole and check that the engine speed returns to idle in about 1 second. If longer than 2 seconds or
less that 1 second, replace dash pot.

Fig. Fig. 32: Dash pot

1993 VIN Code 6 & 8 Engines

THROTTLE BODY

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure as outlined in this section.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable, if equipped, from the air cleaner clip.
4. Disconnect and tag the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the 4 air cleaner cap clips.
6. Remove the air cleaner hose and cap from the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
8. Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the TV cable from the throttle body, if equipped with automatic transaxle.
9. Disconnect the 2 EGR vacuum hoses, on California specification vehicles only.
10. Disconnect the 1 evaporative (EVAP) emissions hose.
11. Disconnect the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.
12. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the throttle body and gasket from the intake manifold.

To install:

13. Install a new gasket, then throttle body and torque the bolts evenly (in a X-pattern) to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
14. Connect the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.
15. Connect the 1 evaporative (EVAP) emissions hose.
16. Connect the 2 EGR vacuum hoses, on California specification vehicles only.
17. Connect the TV cable to the throttle body, if equipped with automatic transaxle. Adjust as necessary. Refer to Drive Train for TV cable adjustment.
18. Install the air cleaner hose and cap to the throttle body.
19. Connect the 4 air cleaner cap clips.
20. Connect the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) electrical connector.
21. Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable, if equipped, to the air cleaner clip.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

See Figure 33

1. Release the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
3. Disconnect the fuel return line from the regulator.

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

4. Remove the 2 retaining bolts and remove the fuel pressure regulator.
5. When reinstalling, place the new regulator on the fuel rail, install the bolts and tighten them to 82 inch lbs. (9.3 ft. lbs.).
6. Connect the fuel return line, making sure the clamp is properly placed and secure.
7. Connect the vacuum hose, then connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 33: Removing the fuel pressure regulator

IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE

See Figure 34

1. Remove the throttle body.

 2. Remove the retaining screws and remove the air valve. Remove the gasket.
3. Use a new gasket and install the air valve to the throttle body.
4. Reinstall the throttle body.

Fig. Fig. 34: Removing the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

See Figure 35

VIN Code 5 Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the electrical connection for sensor.
3. Remove the 2 screws and remove the sensor.

To install:

4. Check that the throttle valve is fully closed.

5. Place the sensor on the throttle body. Turn the sensor clockwise and install the 2 screws loosely.
6. Adjust the throttle position sensor. Insert a 0.35mm or 0.0138 inch feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the lever. Connect an
ohmmeter between terminals IDL and E 2 . There should be continuity.
7. Insert a 0.59 mm (0.0232 inch) feeler gauge. There should be no continuity. Rotate the TPS , necessary to adjust. Secure the TPS screws at this
point.
8. Reconnect electrical connector. Start engine and check for proper operation.

Fig. Fig. 35: Throttle position sensor

Back to Top
 GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Fuel injectors
See Figure 1 Print
The injectors - electrically triggered valves - deliver a measured quantity of fuel into the intake manifold according to signals from the ECM.
As driving conditions change, the computer signals each injector to stay open a longer or shorter period of time, thus controlling the amount of fuel
introduced into the engine. An injector, being an electric component, is either on or off (open or closed); there is no variable control for an injector other
than duration.

Fig. Fig. 1: Cross section of a fuel injector

Cleanliness equals success when working on a fuel injected system. Every component must be treated with the greatest care and be protected from dust,
grime and impact damage. The miniaturized and solid state circuitry is easily damaged by a jolt. Additionally, care must be used in dealing with electrical
connectors. Look for and release any locking mechanisms on the connector before separating the connectors. When reattaching, make sure each pin is
properly lined up and seated before pushing the connector closed.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988 VIN Code 5 Engine
See Figures 2, 3 and 4

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier in this section and disconnect the negative battery cable.

If you are diagnosing a driveability problem, check the ECM for any stored trouble codes BEFORE disconnecting the cable. The codes will be lost after the
battery is disconnected.

2. Disconnect the PCV hose from the valve cover.

3. Remove the vacuum sensing hose from the pressure regulator.
4. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator.
5. Place a towel or container under the cold start injector pipe. Loosen the 2 union bolts at the fuel line and remove the pipe with its gaskets.
6. Remove the fuel inlet pipe mounting bolt and disconnect the fuel inlet hose by removing the fuel union bolt, the 2 gaskets and the hose.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Removing fuel delivery pipe hose

7. Disconnect the injector electrical connections.

8. At the fuel delivery pipe (rail), remove the 3 bolts. Lift the delivery pipe and the injectors free of the engine. DON'T drop the injectors!
9. Remove the 4 insulators and 3 collars from the cylinder head.
10. Pull the injectors free of the delivery pipe.

To install:

11. Before installing the injectors back into the fuel rail, install a NEW O-ring on each injector.
12. Coat each O-ring with a light coat of gasoline (NEVER use oil of any sort)and install the injectors into the delivery pipe. Make certain each injector
can be smoothly rotated. If they do not rotate smoothly, the O-ring is not in its correct position.

Fig. Fig. 3: Injector with seals

Fig. Fig. 4: Make certain the injector can be rotated in place after installation

13. Install the insulators into each injector hole. Place the 3 spacers on the delivery pipe mounting holes in the cylinder head.
14. Place the delivery pipe and injectors on the cylinder head and again check that the injectors rotate smoothly. Install the 3 bolts and tighten them to
13 ft. lbs.
15. Connect the electrical connectors to each injector.
16. Install 2 new gaskets and attach the inlet pipe and fuel union bolt. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. Install the mounting bolt.
17. Install new gaskets and connect the cold start injector pipe to the delivery pipe and cold start injector. Install the fuel line union bolts and tighten
 them to 13 ft. lbs.
18. Connect the fuel return hose and the vacuum sensing hose to the pressure regulator. Attach the PCV hose to the valve cover.
19. Connect the battery cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CAUTION
If there is a leak at any fitting, the line will be under pressure and the fuel may spray in a fine mist. This mist is extremely explosive. Shut the engine off
immediately if any leakage is detected. Use rags to wrap the leaking fitting until the pressure diminishes and wipe up any fuel from the engine area.

1989-90
See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier in this section and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the PCV hoses from the valve cover and the vacuum sensing hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

Fig. Fig. 5: Pressure regulator hoses

Fig. Fig. 6: Removing the regulator mounting bolts

3. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
4. Remove the wiring connectors from the injectors.
5. Remove the pressure regulator by loosening the 2 bolts and pulling the regulator from the delivery pipe.
6. Label and remove the 4 vacuum hoses running to the EGR vacuum modulator. Remove the nut and bracket with the modulator.
7. Disconnect the fuel union bolt at the inlet pipe. Remove the pipe and the 2 gaskets.
8. Remove the 2 bolts holding the delivery pipe and then remove the delivery pipe and the injectors. Don't drop the injectors!
 Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the fuel delivery pipe. Prizm shown, Nova similar, but with three retaining bolts

9. Remove the 2 spacers and the 4 insulators from the cylinder head.
10. Pull the injectors free of the delivery pipe.

To install:

11. Before installing the injectors back into the fuel rail, install a NEW O-ring on each injector.
12. Coat each O-ring with a light coat of gasoline (NEVER use oil of any sort)and install the injectors into the delivery pipe. Make certain each injector
can be smoothly rotated. If they do not rotate smoothly, the O-ring is not in its correct position.
13. Install the 4 insulators and 2 spacers in place.

Fig. Fig. 8: Placement of injector insulators

14. Place the delivery pipe and injectors on the cylinder head and again check that the injectors rotate smoothly. Install the 2 bolts and tighten them to
11 ft. lbs.
15. Install 2 new gaskets and attach the inlet pipe and fuel union bolt. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs.
16. Install the EGR vacuum modulator with its bracket and nut. Connect the 4 vacuum hoses to their proper ports.
17. Install new gaskets and connect the cold start injector pipe to the delivery pipe and cold start injector. Install the fuel line union bolts and tighten
them to 13 ft. lbs.
18. Install a new O-ring on the pressure regulator. Push the regulator into the delivery pipe and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 5.5 ft. lbs. (65
inch lbs.)
19. Connect the injector wiring connectors.
20. Connect the fuel return hose and the vacuum sensing hose to the pressure regulator. Attach the PCV hoses to the valve cover.
21. Connect the battery cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for leaks.
CAUTION
If there is a leak at any fitting, the line will be under pressure and the fuel may spray in a fine mist. This mist is extremely explosive. Shut the engine off
immediately if any leakage is detected. Use rags to wrap the leaking fitting until the pressure diminishes and wipe up any fuel from the engine area.

1991-92
See Figure 9

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

1. Release the fuel system pressure as outlined earlier in this section and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the PCV hose from the valve cover.
3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
4. Use a shop towel to catch any leftover fuel that might be in the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel pressure line from the rail.
5. Disconnect the return line from the pressure regulator.
6. Disconnect the injector electrical connectors.
7. Disconnect the cold start injection feed line.
8. Remove the 2 fasteners holding the fuel rail and remove the fuel rail from the head.

To install:

9. Before installing the injectors back into the fuel rail, install a NEW O-ring on each injector.
10. Install the fuel rail to the head and tighten the fasteners to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
11. Connect the cold start injection feed line.
12. Connect the return line to the pressure regulator.
13. Connect the fuel pressure line to the rail.
14. Connect the injector electrical connectors.
15. Connect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
16. Connect the PCV hose to the valve cover.
17. Connect the battery cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CAUTION
If there is a leak at any fitting, the line will be under pressure and the fuel may spray in a fine mist. This mist is extremely explosive. Shut the engine off
immediately if any leakage is detected. Use rags to wrap the leaking fitting until the pressure diminishes and wipe up any fuel from the engine area.
 Fig. Fig. 9: Fuel rail and injectors - 1991-92

1993
See Figures 10 through 15

CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure. Release pressure slowly and contain spillage. Observe no smoking/no open flame precautions. Have a Class B-C (dry
powder) fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times.

The following procedure also includes removal of the fuel rail, if necessary:

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure as outlined in this section.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable, if equipped, from the air cleaner clip.
4. Disconnect and tag the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the 4 air cleaner cap clips.
6. Remove the air cleaner hose from the throttle body and cap.
7. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
8. Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the TV cable from the throttle body, if equipped with automatic transaxle.
9. Disconnect the 2 EGR vacuum hoses, on California specification vehicles only.
10. Disconnect the 1 evaporative (EVAP) emissions hose.
11. Disconnect the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.
12. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the throttle body and gasket from the intake manifold.
13. Remove the 1 bolt and disconnect the delivery air pipe.
14. Disconnect the fuel feed inlet hose.
15. Disconnect the EGR valve hose from the EGR valve, on California specification vehicles only.
16. Remove the engine hanger and air intake chamber stay and EGR vacuum modulator, on California specification vehicles.
17. Disconnect the EGR gas sensor electrical connector, California only.
 18. Remove the 4 nuts and remove the EGR valve and pipe, if so equipped.
19. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
20. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the PCV valve.
21. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the air intake chamber.
22. Remove the 2 nuts and the 3 Allen® head screws and remove the air intake chamber cover and gasket.
23. Disconnect the injector electrical connectors.
24. Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel rail.
25. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
26. At the fuel delivery pipe (rail), remove the 2 bolts. Lift the fuel rail and the injectors free of the engine. DON'T drop the injectors.
27. Remove the 4 insulators and 2 spacers from the intake manifold.
28. Pull the 4 injectors free of the fuel rail.
29. Remove the O-rings and grommet from each injector.
30. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the pressure regulator from the fuel rail as necessary.

To install:

31. Install the pressure regulator to the fuel rail and tighten the 2 bolts to 82 inch lbs. (9.3 Nm).
32. Before installing the injectors back into the fuel rail, install a NEW O-ring on each injector.
33. Coat each O-ring with a light coat of gasoline (NEVER use oil of any sort) and install the injectors into the delivery pipe. Make certain each injector
can be smoothly rotated. If they do not rotate smoothly, the O-ring is not in its correct position.
34. Install the insulators into each injector hole. Place the 2 spacers on the delivery pipe mounting holes in the intake manifold.
35. Place the fuel rail and injectors on the intake manifold and again check that the injectors rotate smoothly. Position the injector connector upward.
Install the 2 bolts and tighten them to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
36. Install the fuel feed inlet hose to the fuel rail. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
37. Connect the fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
38. Connect the electrical connectors to each injector.
39. Install the air intake chamber cover with a NEW gasket. Torque the retaining bolts in steps to 14 ft. lbs.
40. Install all necessary hoses and electrical connections.
41. Install the EGR valve and pipe and tighten the retaining bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
42. Install the engine hanger and air intake chamber stay and EGR vacuum modulator, if so equipped, and tighten the modulator bolts to 21 ft. lbs. 28
Nm).
43. Install a new gasket on the air intake chamber stay, facing the protrusion downward. Install the throttle body and torque the bolts evenly (in a X-
pattern) to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
44. Connect the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.
45. Connect the 1 evaporative (EVAP) emissions hose.
46. Connect the 2 EGR vacuum hoses, on California specification vehicles only.
47. Connect the TV cable to the throttle body, if equipped with automatic transaxle. Adjust as necessary. Refer to Drive Train for TV cable adjustment.
48. Install the air cleaner hose and cap to the throttle body.
49. Connect the 4 air cleaner cap clips.
50. Connect the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) electrical connector.

Fig. Fig. 10: Removing the fuel feed hose from the fuel rail - 1993
 Fig. Fig. 11: Removing the fuel rail - 1993

Fig. Fig. 12: Fuel injector O-ring and grommet installation - 1993

51. Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable, if equipped, to the air cleaner clip.
52. Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. Fig. 13: Fuel injector installation - 1993

Fig. Fig. 14: Fuel injector electrical connectors - 1993

Fig. Fig. 15: Air intake chamber cover - 1993

TESTING
See Figure 16
The simplest way to test the injectors is simply to listen to them with the engine running. Use either a stethoscope-type tool or the blade of a long screw
driver to touch each injector while the engine is idling. You should hear a distinct clicking as each injector opens and closes.

Additionally, the resistance of the injector can be easily checked. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the electrical connector from the
injector to be tested. Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance across the terminals of the injector. Correct resistance is approximately 12-15 ohms at
68°F; slight variations are acceptable due to temperature conditions.

Fig. Fig. 16: Testing injector resistance

Bench testing of the injectors can only be done using expensive special equipment. Generally this equipment can be found at a dealership and
sometimes at a well-equipped machine shop or performance shop. There is no provision for field testing the injectors by the owner/mechanic. DO NOT
attempt to test the injector by removing it from the engine and making it spray into a jar.

Never attempt to check a removed injector by hooking it directly to the battery. The injector runs on a much smaller voltage and the 12 volts from the
battery will destroy it internally. Since this happens at the speed of electricity, you don't get a second chance.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Relieving Fuel System Pressure

Print

CAUTION
To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, it is necessary to release the fuel system pressure before servicing any fuel system components.

1988-92

1. Remove the fuel cap to remove fuel tank pressure.

2. Disconnect the circuit opening relay located under the dash near the ECM.
3. Crank the engine and allow it to run until it stalls, then crank for an additional 30 seconds.
4. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking of the engine.
5. Use a shop towel to catch any fuel and slowly loosen and remove the cold start injector valve line bolt at the fuel rail.

1993
See Figure 1

1. Remove the fuel cap to remove fuel tank pressure.

2. Disconnect the circuit opening relay as follows:

A. Remove the radio as outlined in Chassis Electrical .

B. Disconnect the circuit opening relay electrical connector from the center console.

3. Crank the engine and allow it to run until it stalls, then crank for an additional 3 seconds.
4. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking of the engine and a discharge of fuel.
5. Reconnect the circuit opening relay.
6. Install the radio.
7. Install the fuel filler cap.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Circuit opening relay - 1993

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Chassis Electrical

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Blower Motor (Fan Motor)

The blower motor is located under the dashboard on the far right side of the car. It is accessible from under the dashboard without removing Print
the dash. The blower motor turns the fan, which circulates the heated, cooled or fresh air within the car. Aside from common electrical
problems, the blower motor may need to be removed to clean out leaves or debris which have been sucked into the casing.

The blower motor may be removed without disconnecting heater hoses. If the car is equipped with air conditioning, the air conditioning system must be
discharged and the evaporator unit removed. Please refer to Evaporator - Removal and Installation later in this section. Once the unit is removed, the
blower motor can be removed following the procedures below.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-90
See Figure 1

1. Remove the 3 screws attaching the retainer.

2. Remove the glove box assembly.
3. Remove the air duct between the heater case and blower assembly.
4. Disconnect the blower motor wire connector at the motor case.
5. Disconnect the air source selector control cable at the blower assembly.
6. Loosen the 2 nuts and the bolt attaching the blower assembly, then remove the blower.
7. With the blower removed, check the case for any debris or signs of fan contact. Inspect the fan for wear spots, cracked blades or hub, loose
retaining nut or poor alignment.

To install:

8. Place the blower in position, making sure it is properly aligned within the case. Install the 2 bolts and the nut and tighten them.
9. Connect the selector control cable at the blower assembly.
10. Connect the wire harness to the motor and install the ductwork between the heater case and the blower assembly.
11. Install the glove box assembly and install the retainer with its 3 screws.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Heater assembly - 1985-92

1991-92
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the rubber duct running between the heater case and the blower.
3. Disconnect the wiring from the motor.
4. Remove the 3 screws holding the motor and remove the blower motor.
5. With the blower removed, check the case for any debris or signs of fan contact. Inspect the fan for wear spots, cracked blades or hub, loose
retaining nut or poor alignment.

To install:

6. Place the blower in position, making sure it is properly aligned within the case. Install the 3 screws and tighten them.
7. Connect the wiring to the motor.
8. Install the rubber air duct and connect the negative battery cable.

1993
See Figure 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the 3 bolts and 3 screws and remove the glove box from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
4. Remove the 3 screws and remove the blower motor from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Place the blower in position, making sure it is properly aligned within the case. Install the 3 screws and tighten them.
6. Connect the blower motor electrical connector.
7. Install the glove box to the vehicle and secure with the 3 bolts and 3 screws.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Blower motor - 1993 models

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Blower Motor Resistor

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Print

1993
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative cable.

2. Remove the 3 bolts and 3 screws and remove the glove box from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower resistor assembly.
4. Remove the 2 screws and remove the resistor from the vehicle.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the blower motor for proper operation at all
speeds after installation.

Fig. Fig. 1: Blower motor resistor - 1993

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Blower Speed Control Switch
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1985-92

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the illumination light from the control assembly.
2. Using a tool, pry loose the clip and push out the blower speed control switch to the rear of the control assembly.
3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Connect the negative battery cable. Check operation of the system.

1993

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Pull the center trim bezel from the instrument panel, disconnecting the cigar lighter and ashtray bulb socket.
3. Remove the 3 screws and pull the heater control unit from the instrument panel.
4. Pull the knob off of the blower speed selector switch.
5. Disconnect the blower speed selector switch electrical connector.
6. Remove the switch by removing the 2 screws retaining it to the control unit.

To install:

7. Position the switch and install the 2 screws retaining it to the control unit.
8. Connect the blower speed selector switch electrical connector.
9. Push the knob on the blower speed selector switch.
10. Install the heater control unit to the instrument panel.
11. Press the center trim bezel to the instrument panel and connect the cigar lighter and ashtray bulb socket.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Heater Control Panel (Unit)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1985-92
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the 2 screws holding the hood release lever assembly.
4. Remove the 4 screws holding the left lower dashboard panel.
5. Remove the upper and lower steering column covers.
6. Use a small screwdriver or similar tool to gently pry the switches from the lower dash trim panel. Disconnect the wiring and remove the switches.

Fig. Fig. 1: Location of screws and clips retaining the dash trim panel - 1985-92

7. Remove the 2 screws under the panel and pull out the center cluster finish panel. It is also secured by spring clips behind the dash - pull straight
out away from the dash so as not to break the plastic.
 8. Remove the 4 screws holding the heater control panel and slide the panel out of the dash.

Fig. Fig. 2: Heater control unit retaining bolts - 1985-92

To install:

9. When reinstalling, place the control panel in the dash, make sure it is straight and install the 4 retaining screws.
10. Place the finish panel in place and push it into the dash so that each spring clip engages. Install the 2 lower screws.
11. Connect the wiring to the switches and press the switches firmly into place.
12. Install the upper and lower steering wheel covers.
13. Install the lower left dash cover and its 4 screws.
14. Install the hood release lever assembly.
15. Install the steering wheel.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.

1993
See Figures 3 and 4

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Pull the center trim bezel from the instrument panel, disconnecting the cigar lighter and ashtray bulb socket.
3. Remove the 3 screws and pull the heater control unit from the instrument panel.

To install:

4. Install the heater control unit to the instrument panel.

5. Press the center trim bezel to the instrument panel and connect the cigar lighter and ashtray bulb socket.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
 Fig. Fig. 3: Center trim bezel - 1993

Fig. Fig. 4: Heater control unit - 1993

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Heater Control Unit Control Cables

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

Temperature Control Cable (To Heater Case)

1993
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the temperature control cable from the heater control unit.
4. Disconnect the temperature control cable from the heater case and remove the cable from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Connect the temperature control cable to the heater case.

6. Connect the temperature control cable to the heater control unit.
7. Install the instrument panel to the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Heater control unit cable routing - 1993 models

Temperature Control Cable (To Engine Coolant Valve)

1993
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the temperature control cable from the heater control unit.
4. Disconnect the temperature control cable from the engine coolant control valve and remove the cable from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Connect the temperature control cable to the engine coolant control valve.
6. Connect the temperature control cable to the heater control unit.
7. Install the instrument panel to the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 2: Temperature control cable to engine coolant control valve - 1993 models

Fresh/Recirc Control Lever Cable

1993
See Figures 1 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the fresh/recirc control lever cable from the heater control unit.
4. Disconnect the fresh/recirc control lever cable from the blower motor case and remove the cable from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Connect the fresh/recirc control lever cable to the blower motor case. Connect temperature control cable to the heater cable.
6. Connect the fresh/recirc control lever cable to the heater control unit.
7. Install the instrument panel to the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
 Fig. Fig. 3: Fresh/recirc control lever Cable to blower motor case

Mode Control Cable

1993
See Figures 1 and 4

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the mode control lever cable from the heater control unit.
4. Disconnect the mode control lever cable from the heater control case.

To install:

5. Connect the mode control lever cable to the heater control case.
6. Connect the mode control lever cable to the heater control unit.
7. Install the instrument panel to the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 4: Mode control cable heater case

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Heater Core
The heater core is simply a small heat exchanger (radiator) within the car. If the driver selects heat on the control panel, a water valve is Print
opened allowing engine coolant to circulate through the heater core. The blower fan circulates air through the fins, picking up the heat from
the engine coolant. The heated air is ducted into the car and the coolant is routed back to the engine. Moving the control to a cooler setting
reduces the amount of hot water flowing into the core, thus reducing the amount of heat.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-88

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and then drain the cooling system.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

2. Disconnect the heater hose from the core in the engine compartment.
3. Remove the 6 clips from the lower part of the heater case, then remove the lower part of the case.
4. Carefully pry open the lower part of the heater case.
5. Remove the core assembly from the heater case. Handle the core carefully and do not allow the fins to be crushed or deformed.

To install:

6. When reinstalling, position the core properly and install the lower part of the case.
7. Install the 6 clips, making sure each is properly secured.
8. Connect the heater hoses. Check them for any signs of weakness or fraying and use new clamps if necessary.
9. Refill the coolant to the proper level.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

1989-92
The heater case and core are located directly behind the center console. Access to the heater case requires removal of the entire console as well as most
of the dashboard assembly. Please refer to the proper sub-topics for removal procedures. Instrument Cluster and Radio removal are explained later in
this section. Instrument Panel and Console removal are found in Body & Trim . Steering Wheel removal and installation is discussed in Suspension &
Steering .

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the trim bezel from the instrument cluster.
4. Remove the cup holder from the console.
5. Remove the radio.
6. Remove the instrument panel (dashboard) assembly and the instrument cluster. Label and carefully disconnect all of the dash wiring harnesses.
Remember to release the locking mechanism on each connector first.
7. Remove the center console and all the console trim. Work carefully and don't break the plastic pieces.
8. Remove the lower dash trim and the side window air deflectors.
9. Drain the coolant from the cooling system.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

10. Disconnect the control cables from the heater case. Don't lose any of the small clips.
11. Disconnect the ductwork from the heater case.
12. Disconnect the blower switch wiring harness and heater control assembly.
13. Remove the 2 center console support braces.
14. Loosen the clamps and remove the heater hoses from the case. Remove the grommet from the cowling.
15. Remove the mounting nuts and bolts holding the heater core and the air distribution case to the firewall.
16. Remove the heater case and air distribution case from the car as a unit.
17. Remove the screws and clips from the case halves and separate the case.
18. Remove the heater core from the case.

To install:

19. Install the heater core into the case, position the case halves and secure the retaining screws and clips.
20. Install the case assembly in the car and secure it with the mounting nuts and bolts.
21. Connect the heater hoses (use new clamps if necessary) and attach the grommet to the cowl.
22. Connect the air ducts to the case and connect the control cables.
23. Install the 2 center console support braces.
24. Install the blower wiring harness and the heater control assembly.
25. Place the dashboard in position within the car. When it is loosely in place, connect the wiring harness connectors, making sure each is firmly seated
and the wiring properly secured.
26. Install the center console and its trim pieces.
27. Install the radio.
 28. Install the cup holder.
29. Install the trim bezel around the instrument cluster.
30. Install the steering wheel.
31. Refill the coolant to the proper level.
32. Connect the negative battery cable.

1993
See Figures 1 through 8

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the evaporator case.
3. Drain the coolant from the cooling system.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in
an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

4. Disconnect the heater core inlet and outlet hoses.

5. Remove the heater core grommet from the vehicle.
6. Refer to Body & Trim and remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
7. Remove the left side instrument panel brace from the vehicle by removing the 6 retaining bolts.
8. Remove the right side instrument panel brace from the vehicle by removing the 1 retaining bolt and nut.
9. Remove the center ventilation duct from the vehicle by removing the 2 retaining screws.
10. Disconnect the instrument panel left side ventilation duct.
11. Remove the case from the vehicle by removing the 4 retaining nuts.
12. Disconnect the heater core mounting brackets by removing the 2 retaining screws.
13. Slide the heater core out of the heater case.

To install:

14. Slide the heater core into the heater case and install the 2 retaining screws.
15. Install the case to the vehicle and tighten the 4 retaining nuts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
16. Connect the instrument panel left side ventilation duct.
17. Install the center ventilation duct to the vehicle and install the 2 retaining screws.
18. Install the right side instrument panel brace to the vehicle and tighten the 1 retaining bolt and nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
19. Install the left side instrument panel brace to the vehicle and tighten the 6 retaining bolts 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
20. Refer to Body & Trim and install the instrument panel to the vehicle.
21. Install the heater core grommet to the vehicle.
22. Connect the heater core inlet and outlet hoses.
23. Fill the cooling system.
24. If equipped with air conditioning, install the evaporator case.

Fig. Fig. 1: Heater and ventilation system components - 1993 models

Fig. Fig. 2: Instrument panel support beam - 1993 models

Fig. Fig. 3: Blower motor case - 1993 models

 Fig. Fig. 4: Heater and ventilation ducts - 1993 models

25. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 5: Instrument panel center ventilation duct - 1993 models

Fig. Fig. 6: Heater core hoses - 1993 models

Fig. Fig. 7: Heater case - 1993 models

Fig. Fig. 8: Heater core - 1993 models

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Drive Train
 GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Adjustments
PEDAL HEIGHT AND FREE-PLAY Print

See Figures 1 and 2

Adjust the pedal height to specification, by rotating the pedal stop.

CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air.
Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch area! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

1. Adjust the clearance between the master cylinder piston and the pushrod to 1-5mm (Nova) or 5-15mm (Prizm). Loosen the pushrod locknut and
rotate the pushrod while depressing the clutch pedal lightly with your finger.
2. Tighten the locknut when finished with the adjustment.

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch pedal height and free-play adjustment

 Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch pedal freeplay

3. Adjust the release cylinder free-play by loosening the release cylinder pushrod locknut and rotating the pushrod until the specification is obtained.
4. Measure the clutch pedal free-play after performing the above adjustments. If it is not within specifications, repeat Steps 1-3 until it is.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

CLUTCH
Print

CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air.
Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch area! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Clutch Master Cylinder

REPAIR GUIDE TIP: Print
When inspecting the clutch hydraulic system for leakage or impaired function, check the inside of the firewall (under the carpet) below the
clutch master cylinder. A master cylinder leak may not show up under the cylinder on the engine side of the firewall.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-93
See Figure 1

CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air.
Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch area! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

1. Drain or siphon the fluid from the master cylinder.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic line to the clutch from the master cylinder.

WARNING
Do not spill brake fluid on the painted surfaced of the vehicle.

3. Inside the car, remove the underdash panel and the air duct.
4. Remove the pedal return spring.
5. Remove the spring clip and clevis pin.
6. Unfasten the bolts which secure the master cylinder to the firewall. Withdraw the assembly from the firewall side.

To install:

7. Install the master cylinder with its retaining nuts to the firewall.
8. Connect the line from the clutch to the master cylinder.
9. Connect the clevis and install the clevis pin and spring clip.
10. Install the pedal return spring.
11. Fill the reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid and bleed the system.
12. Check the cylinder and the hose connection for leaks.
13. Adjust the clutch pedal.
14. Reinstall the air duct and underdash cover panel.

OVERHAUL
See Figure 1

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch master cylinder components - 1989-91

15. Clamp the master cylinder body in a vise with protected jaws.
16. Separate the reservoir assembly from the master cylinder.
17. Remove the snapring and remove the pushrod/piston assembly.
18. Inspect the master cylinder bore for scoring, grooving or corrosion. If any of these conditions are observed, replace the cylinder. Inspect piston,
spring, push rod and boot for damage or wear replace any parts which are worn or defective.
19. Before reassembly, coat all parts with clean brake fluid.
20. Install the piston assembly in the cylinder bore.
21. Fit the pushrod over the washer and secure them with the snapring.
22. Install the reservoir and tighten the nut.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Clutch Slave Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

WARNING
Do not spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

1. If access under the hood is limited, it may be easier to reach the actuator from under the vehicle. Raise the front of the car and support it with
jackstands. Be sure that is supported securely.
 2. If necessary, remove the rear splash shield to gain access to the release cylinder.
3. Remove the clutch fork return spring.
4. Unfasten the hydraulic line from the release cylinder by removing its retaining nut.
5. Remove the release cylinder retaining nuts and remove the cylinder.

To install:

6. Reinstall the cylinder to the clutch housing and tighten the bolts to 106 inch lbs (12 Nm).
7. Connect the hydraulic line and tighten it to 11 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
8. Install the clutch release spring.
9. Bleed the system and remember to top up the fluid in the master cylinder when finished.
10. Install the splash shield if it was removed.
11. Lower the car to the ground.

OVERHAUL
See Figure 1

1. Remove the pushrod assembly and the rubber boot.

2. Withdraw the piston, complete with its cup; don't remove the cup unless it is being replaced.
3. Wash all the parts in brake fluid.
4. Replace any worn or damaged parts. Inspect the cylinder bore carefully for any sign of damage, wear or corrosion.
5. Before reassembly, coat all the parts in clean brake fluid. Insert the spring and piston into the cylinder.
6. Install the boot and insert the pushrod.

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch slave (actuator) cylinder components

BLEEDING
See Figure 2

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.

WARNING
Do not spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle!

2. Fit a tube over the bleeder plug and place the other end into a clean jar half-filled with brake fluid.
3. Depress the clutch pedal, loosen the bleeder plug with a wrench, and allow the fluid to flow into the jar.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Slave cylinder bleeding

4. Tighten the plug and then release the clutch pedal.

5. Repeat these steps until no air bubbles are visible in the bleeder tube.
6. When there are no more air bubbles, tighten the plug while keeping the clutch pedal fully depressed.
7. Top off the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.
8. Check the system for leaks.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Disc and Pressure Plate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figure 1

Do not allow grease or oil to get on any of the disc, pressure plate, or flywheel surfaces.

CAUTION
The clutch driven disc contains asbestos which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air.
Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch area! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

1. Remove the transaxle from the car as previously detailed.

2. Remove the clutch cover and disc from the bellhousing.
3. Unfasten the release fork bearing clips. Withdraw the release bearing hub, complete with the release bearing.
4. Remove the tension spring from the clutch linkage.
5. Remove the release fork and support.
6. Punch matchmarks on the clutch cover (pressure plate) and flywheel so that the pressure plate can be returned to its original position during
installation.
7. Slowly unfasten the screws which attach the retracting springs. Loosen each screw 1 turn at a time until the tension is released.

CAUTION
If the screws are released too quickly, the clutch assembly will fly apart, causing possible injury!

8. Separate the pressure plate from the clutch cover/spring assembly.

9. Inspect the parts for wear or deterioration. It is strongly recommended that all 3 components of the clutch system-disc, pressure plate and bearing-
be replaced as a unit if any part is worn. The slight additional cost of the parts is more than offset by not having to disassemble it again later on to
replace another component.
10. Inspect the flywheel for any signs of cracking, bluing in the steel (a sign of extreme heat) or scoring. Any bluing or cracks which are found require
 replacement of the flywheel. While the flywheel will not be perfectly smooth, it should be free of all but the slightest ridges and valleys or scores.
Any gouging deep enough to catch your fingernail during inspection requires replacement. A scored flywheel will immediately attack a new clutch
disc, causing slippage and vibration.If the flywheel must be replaced, please refer to Engine & Engine Rebuilding for further directions.

To install:

11. When reassembling, apply a thin coating of multipurpose grease to the release bearing hub and release fork contact points. Also, pack the groove
inside the clutch hub with multipurpose grease and lubricate the pivot points of the release fork.

Fig. Fig. 1: Always use a pilot tool when installing the clutch assembly

12. Align the matchmarks on the clutch cover and flywheel which were made during disassembly. Install the clutch and pressure plate assembly and
tighten the retaining bolts just finger tight.
13. Center the clutch disc by using a clutch pilot tool or an old input shaft. (Pilot tools are available at most automotive parts stores.) Insert the pilot
into the end of the input shaft front bearing, wiggle it gently to align the clutch disc and pressure plate and tighten the retaining bolts. The bolts
should be tightened in 2 or 3 steps, gradually and evenly. Final bolt torque is 14 ft. lbs.
14. Install the release bearing, fork and boot.
15. Reinstall the transaxle as outlined previously in this Section.

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Suspension & Steering

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

FRONT SUSPENSION
Print

CAUTION
Exercise great caution when working with the front suspension. Coil springs and other suspension components are under extreme tension and result in
severe injury if released improperly. Never remove the nut on the top of the shock absorber piston without using the proper spring compressor tool.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Front End Alignment

See Figures 1, 2 and 3 Print
Alignment of the front wheels is essential if your car is to go, stop and turn as designed. Alignment can be altered by collision, overloading,
poor repair or bent components.

If you are diagnosing bizarre handling and/or poor road manners, the first place to look is the tires. Although the tires may wear as a result of an
alignment problem, worn or poorly inflated tires can make you chase alignment problems which don't exist.

Once you have eliminated all other causes, unload everything from the trunk except the spare tire, set the tire pressures to the correct level and take the
car to a reputable alignment facility. Since the alignment settings are measured in very small increments, it is almost impossible for the home mechanic
to accurately determine the settings. The explanations that follow will help you understand the three dimensions of alignment: caster, camber and toe-in.
 CASTER Caster is the tilting of the steering axis either forward or backward from the vertical, when viewed from the side of the vehicle. A
backward tilt is said to be positive and a forward tilt is said to be negative. Changes in caster affect the straight line tendency of the
vehicle and the return to center of the steering after a turn. If the camber is radically different between the left and right wheels (such as after hitting a
major pothole or curb), the car will exhibit a nasty pull to one side.

Fig. Fig. 1: Caster angle affects the tracking of the steering.

Caster is not adjustable on either the Nova or Prizm. The camber angle is fixed by the proper location of all the suspension components. If caster is found
to be incorrect, the cause must be determined through examination of the suspension and body parts. Bent, loose or worn components must be replaced.
Recent body work must also be considered as a cause; if the shock tower is not correctly located, the camber will not be correct.

CAMBER
Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical (leaning in or out) when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels
tilt outward at the top, the camber is said to be positive. When the wheels tilt inward at the top the camber is said to be negative. The amount of tilt is
measured in degrees from the vertical. This measurement is called camber angle.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel on the road.

Camber affects the position of the tire on the road surface during vertical suspension movement and cornering. Changes in camber affect the handling
and ride qualities of the car as well as tire wear. Many tire wear patterns indicate camber related problems from misalignment, overloading or poor
driving habits.

Camber is adjustable on the Nova and Prizm by turning the adjusting cam on each front strut. Anytime camber is adjusted, toe must be checked and
reset if necessary.

TOE-IN
Toe is the turning in or out (parallelism) of the wheels. The actual amount of toe setting is normally only a fraction of an inch. The
purpose of toe-in (or out) specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. Toe-in also serves to offset the small deflections of the steering support
system which occur when the vehicle is rolling forward or under braking.
 Fig. Fig. 3: Toe in (or out) can affect tire wear and fuel economy.

Changing the toe setting will radically affect the overall feel of the steering, the behavior of the car under braking, tire wear and even fuel economy.
Excessive toe (in or out) causes excessive drag or scrubbing on the tires.

Toe-in is adjustable on both Nova and Prizm, and is generally measured either in fractional inches or degrees. It is adjusted by loosening the locknut on
each tie rod end and turning the rod until the correct reading is achieved. The rods left and right must remain equal in length during all adjustments.

See Figure 4

Fig. Fig. 4: Front Wheel ALignment

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Knuckle, Hub and Wheel Bearing
REMOVAL, DISASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION Print

WARNING
The use of the correct tools is required for this repair. These procedures require the use of assorted joint separators, slide hammers, bearing pullers, seal
extractors/drivers and snapring pliers which may not be in your tool box. Do not attempt repairs or disassembly if the correct tools are not available;
damage and/or injury may result.

Nova
See Figures 1 through 8

Fig. Fig. 1: Nova front hub and knuckle assembly

1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.

2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the brake hose retaining clip at the strut.
5. Disconnect the brake flex hose from the metal brake line. Use a small pan to collect spillage and plug the lines as soon as possible.
6. Remove the bolts holding the brake caliper to the knuckle; support the caliper with a piece of stiff wire out of the way.
7. Remove the brake disc.
8. Remove the drive axle nut. Use GM Tool J-25287 or equivalent to push out the drive axle.

Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the Nova driving axle

9. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod (steering rod) nut at the knuckle. Use a tie rod separator (GM Tool J-24329-01 or equivalent) to separate the
joint.
10. Remove the nuts and bolt holding the ball joint to the control arm.
 11. Matchmark the camber adjusting cam and the strut.
12. Remove the 2 bolts holding the knuckle to the strut. Remove the knuckle. The ball joint may be removed from the knuckle if desired.
13. Mount the knuckle securely in a vise. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer dust cover.

Fig. Fig. 3: Nova hub and bearing assembly

14. Using a slide hammer and puller (GM J-26941 or equivalent), remove the inner grease seal from the knuckle.
15. Remove the inner bearing snapring.
16. Remove the brake splash shield.
17. Remove the hub using an extractor such as GM Tools J-25287 and J-35378 or equivalent.

WARNING
Whenever the hub is removed, the inner and outer grease seals MUST be replaced with new seals. The seals are not reusable.

Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the Nova inner grease seal

Fig. Fig. 5: Removing the Nova hub

Fig. Fig. 6: Removing the Nova outer bearing race

 Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the Nova wheel bearing

18. Use the same extractor to remove the outer bearing race from the hub.
19. Remove the outer grease seal with the slide hammer and puller.
20. Using a bearing driver of the correct size (GM Tools J-35399 and J-35379 or equivalent), remove the bearing assembly.

To install:

21. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be
replaced.
22. Using a bearing driver of the correct size (GM J-8092 and J-35411 or equivalent), install the bearing into the hub.
23. Use a seal driver to install a new outer grease seal. (GM J-35737-1 or equivalent)
24. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install it to the knuckle.
25. Apply a layer of multi-purpose grease to the seal lip, seal and bearing. Install the hub with GM Tools J-8092 and J-35399 or equivalent.
26. Install the snapring.
27. Install a new inner grease seal using the correct size driver. (GM J-35737-2 or equivalent).
28. Install the outer dust cover (open end down) with GM Tool J-35379 or equivalent.
29. Install the lower ball joint to the control arm and tighten the nuts and bolt to 59 ft. lbs.
30. If the ball joint was removed from the knuckle, reinstall it. Install a new nut and temporarily tighten it to 14 ft. lbs. Back off the nut until clear of the
knuckle and then retighten it to 82 ft. lbs.
31. Install the camber adjusting cam into the knuckle. Connect the knuckle to the strut lower bracket.
32. Insert the bolts from rear to front and align the matchmarks of the camber adjusting cam and the strut. Tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (VIN code 4
engine) or 166 ft. lbs. (VIN code 5 engines).
33. Connect the tie rod to the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten to 36 ft. lbs. Install the cotter pin.
34. Install the driveshaft into the hub.
35. Double check the nuts and bolt holding the ball joint to the lower control arm. Correct torque is 59 ft. lbs.
36. Install the brake disc.
37. Reinstall the brake caliper. Tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs.
38. Connect the brake flex hose to the metal brake line. Correct tightness is 11 ft. lbs. Do not over-tighten this connection.
39. Install the wheel
40. Lower the car to the ground.
41. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs.
42. Install the washer and nut onto the driveshaft end. Tighten the bolt to 137 ft. lbs. and install the cap and cotter pin.
43. Bleed the brake system, following directions in Brakes .
44. Have the alignment checked at a reputable facility.
 Fig. Fig. 8: Installation of the Nova hub

Prizm
See Figures 9 through 14

Fig. Fig. 9: Prizm hub and bearing assembly

1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.

2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it. Remove the wheel.
 3. Remove the ABS speed sensor, if so equipped.
4. Remove the center axle nut.
5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by
the hose.
6. Remove the brake disc.
7. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
8. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator (GM Tool J-6627-A or equivalent).
9. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and remove the arm from the knuckle.
10. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
11. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
12. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
13. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
14. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator (GM Tool J-35413 or equivalent) to loosen
and remove the joint
15. Use a slide hammer/extractor (GM Tool J-26941 or equivalent) to remove the outer oil seal.

Fig. Fig. 10: Removing Prizm oil seal

16. Remove the snapring.

17. Using a hub puller and pilot (GM Tools J-25287 and J-35378 or equivalents), pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
 Fig. Fig. 11: Prizm axle hub removal

18. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).

19. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.

Fig. Fig. 12: Using split plate tool to remove Prizm outer bearing race.
 Fig. Fig. 13: Removing Prizm inner bearing race

20. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
21. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover (GM Tool J-35399) with a plastic mallet to drive out the
bearing.

To install:

22. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be
replaced.
23. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size (GM J-8092 and J-37777 or equivalent).
24. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
25. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer (GM J-35737-01 or equivalent) and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
26. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
27. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
28. Use a hub installer (GM J-35399) to press the hub into the steering knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 14: Installing Prizm axle hub into steering knuckle

29. Install a new snapring into the hub.

30. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
31. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
 32. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
33. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 94 ft. lbs.
34. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
35. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then install the tie rod end to the knuckle.
36. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 194 ft. lbs. and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. Install the cotter pin.
37. Remove the old nut from the lower ball joint and install a new castle nut. Tighten the nut to 94 ft. lbs. and install a new cotter pin. (The old nut was
used to draw the joint into the knuckle; the new nut assures retention.)
38. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs.
39. Install the brake disc and the brake caliper and tighten the caliper bolts to 65 ft. lbs.
40. Install the ABS sensor and tighten the retaining bolt to 69 inch lbs. (88 Nm), if so equipped.
41. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle and while applying the brakes tighten the locknut to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) for 1989-90 and 159
ft. lbs. (216 Nm) for 1991-93.
42. Install the wheel
43. Lower the car to the ground.
44. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. Install the cap and cotter pin.
45. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot.
46. Have the alignment checked at a reputable facility.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Lower Ball Joint

INSPECTION Print

Raise the front of the vehicle and safely support it on stands. Do not place stands under the control arms; the
arms must hang free. Grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of the tire through an in-and-out motion. Look for any horizontal motion in
the steering knuckle relative to the control arm. Such motion is an indication of looseness within the ball joint. If the joint is checked while disconnected
from the knuckle, it should have minimal or no freeplay and should not twist in its socket under finger pressure. Replace any joint showing looseness or
free play.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1

The use of the correct tools is REQUIRED for this procedure. A ball joint separator is a commonly available tool which prevents damage to the joint and
knuckle. Do not attempt to separate the joint with hammers, prybars or similar tools.

1. Elevate and safely support the front of the vehicle. Do not place the stands under the control arms; they must hang free.

Do not allow the driveshaft joints to over-extend. The CV joints can become disconnected under extreme extension.

2. Install a protective cover over the CV boot.

3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut.
5. Loosen the castle nut but do not remove it. Unscrew it just to the top of the threads and install the ball joint separator. (GM Tool 34754 or
equivalent) Use the nut to bear on the tool; this protects the threaded shaft from damage during removal.
6. Use the separator to loosen the ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 1: Using the ball joint separator

7. Remove the nuts and bolt holding the ball joint to the control arm.
8. Remove the ball joint from the control arm and steering knuckle.
9. When reinstalling, attach the ball joint to the control arm and tighten the 2 bolts and 1 nut to 105 ft. lbs. (Prizm) or 59 ft. lbs. (Nova).
10. Carefully install the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Use a new castle nut and tighten it to 94 ft. lbs. (Prizm) or 82 ft. lbs. (Nova).
 11. Install the cotter pin through the castle nut and stud.
12. Remove the protector from the CV boot.
13. Install the wheel.
14. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Lower Control Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1985-88 Nova

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Do not place the stands under the control arms.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the ball joint to the lower control arm.
3. On 1988 vehicles with the VIN code 5 engine, remove the nut holding the sway bar link to the control arm and disconnect the link and bar from the
control arm.
4. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the control arm to the body.
5. Remove the control arm from the car and check it carefully for cracks, bends or crimps in the metal or corrosion damage. Check the rubber bushing
and replace it if any sign of damage or deformation is found.
6. Before reinstalling the arm, install or replace the bushing and tighten its retaining nut to 76 ft. lbs.

WARNING
Never reuse a self-locking nut; always replace the removed nut with a new one.

7. Position the control arm to the body and install the nuts and bolts. The front nut and bolt should be tightened to 105 ft. lbs. and the rear to 72 ft.
lbs.
8. On 1988 vehicles with the VIN code 5 engine, reinstall the sway bar and link; tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs.
9. Install the ball joint attaching nuts and bolts and tighten them to 59 ft. lbs.
10. Have the wheel alignment checked by a reputable facility.

1989-92
Both lower control arms and the suspension crossmember must be removed as a unit even if only 1 arm is damaged.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Do not place the stands under the control arms or the suspension crossmember.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the ball joints to the lower control arms.
3. Remove the nut and bolt holding the control arm rear brackets to the crossmember.
4. Place a floor jack under the suspension crossmember. Use a broad piece of wood between the jack and crossmember to evenly distribute the
loading.
5. Remove the 6 bolts and 2 nuts holding the suspension crossmember. Carefully lower the crossmember (with the control arms attached) and
remove from the car.
6. Remove the mounting bolt holding the control arm to the crossmember and remove the arm. Inspect the arm and bushing for damage, deformation
or corrosion damage.
7. Install the control arm(s) to the crossmember and partially tighten the bolts. They should be tight enough to hold firmly, yet still be able to pivot
when moderate force is applied.
8. Install the suspension crossmember and control arms to the body of the car and tighten the 6 nuts and 2 nuts.
9. Install the bolts holding the rear control arm brackets and partially tighten them.
10. Connect the ball joints to each arm and tighten the bolts to 105 ft. lbs.
11. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Bounce the front end up and down several times to stabilize the suspension. The partially tightened joints will flex
and seek a normal position.
12. With the vehicle on the ground (don't raise it or the suspension position will be lost), tighten the bolt holding the arm to the crossmember to 152 ft.
lbs. Tighten the nut and bolt holding the rear bracket to the crossmember to 14 ft. lbs. and the rear bracket bolts to 94 ft. lbs.
13. Have the alignment checked by a reputable facility.

1993
See Figures 1 and 2

Both lower control arms and the suspension crossmember must be removed as a unit even if only 1 arm is damaged.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the front wheel assembly.
3. Remove the 1 bolt and 2 nuts and separate the ball joint from the lower control arm.
4. Remove the bolt and separate the rear transaxle mount from the suspension crossmember.
5. Place a floor jack under the engine crossmember.
6. Remove the bolt and separate the engine crossmember from the suspension crossmember.
7. Remove the nut and 3 bolts and loosen the right rear control arm bushing retaining bracket.
 8. Place a floor jack under the suspension crossmember. Use a broad piece of wood between the jack and crossmember to evenly distribute the
loading.
9. Loosen and lower the suspension crossmember from the body.
10. Remove the control arm to crossmember mounting bolt and remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
11. Clamp the lower control arm in a soft jawed vise, remove the retaining nut, bushing retainer and remove the bushing.

To install:

12. Install a new lower control arm bushing and bushing retainer. Do not tighten the nut fully at this time.
13. Install the lower control arm to the suspension crossmember and tighten the control arm to suspension crossmember bolt to 161 ft. lbs. (218 Nm)
and rear bushing retaining nut to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm).
14. Install the suspension crossmember and tighten the 6 bolts to 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm).
15. Remove the floor jack under the suspension crossmember.
16. Install the 3 retaining bolts and 1 nut to the left and right rear control arm bushing retaining brackets and tighten as follows (see illustration):

Bolt A to 108 ft. lbs. (147 Nm)

Bolt B to 37 ft. lbs (50 (Nm)
Nut C to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)

17. Install the 4 nuts and bolt securing the engine crossmember and rear transaxle mount to the suspension crossmember and tighten as follows (see
illustration):

Nut A to 35 ft. lbs. (48Nm)

Bolt B to 45 ft. lbs (61 (Nm)
Nut C to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

18. Remove the floor jack under the engine crossmember.

19. Install the ball joint to the to the lower control arm and tighten the bolt and nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
20. Install the front wheel.
21. Lower the vehicle and check the alignment.

Fig. Fig. 1: Rear control arm bushing retaining bracket bolt and nut locations
 Fig. Fig. 2: Engine crossmember to suspension crossmember nut and bolt locations

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Spring and Shock Absorbers/MacPherson Strut

TESTING Print

Shock Absorbers
The purpose of the shock absorber is simply to limit the motion of the spring during compression (bump) and rebound cycles. If the car were not equipped
with these motion dampers, the up and down motion of the springs would multiply until the vehicle was alternately trying to leap off the ground and to
pound itself into the pavement.

Contrary to popular rumor, the shocks do not affect the ride height of the car nor do they affect the ride quality except for limiting the pitch or bounce of
the car. These factors are controlled by other suspension components such as springs and tires. Worn shock absorbers can affect handling; if the front of
the car is rising or falling excessively, the footprint of the tires changes on the pavement and steering response is affected. The simplest test of the shock
absorbers is simply to push down on one corner of the unladen car and release it.

Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most cases, it will come up beyond its original rest position, dip back below it and settle quickly to
rest. This shows that the damper is slowing and controlling the spring action. Any tendency to excessive pitch (up-and-down) motion or failure to return
to rest within 2-3 cycles is a sign of poor function within the shock absorber.

While each shock absorber can be replaced individually, it is recommended that they be changed as a pair (both front or both rear) to maintain equal
response on both sides of the car. Chances are quite good that if one has failed, its mate is weak also.

MacPherson Struts
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

The struts are precise parts and retain the springs under tremendous pressure even when removed from the car. For this reason, several special tools and
substantial specialized knowledge are required to safely and effectively work on these components. If spring and shock absorber work is required, it may
not be a bad idea to remove the strut involved yourself and then consider taking it to a repair facility which is fully equipped and familiar with the car.

Fig. Fig. 1: Front suspension - 1985-88 VIN code 4 engine

Fig. Fig. 2: Front suspension - 1988 VIN code 5 engine
Fig. Fig. 3: Front suspension - Prizm

REMOVAL
See Figures 4, 5 and 6

1. Under the hood, remove the 3 or 4 small nuts holding the top of the strut to the shock tower. DO NOT loosen the larger center nut.
Fig. Fig. 4: Upper strut retaining nuts. Nova with VIN code 5 engine has four, all others have 3 per strut.

2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts at the appropriate wheel.

3. Raise the vehicle and safely support it. It need not be any higher than the distance necessary to separate the tire from the ground. Do not place the
jackstands under the control arms.
4. Remove the wheel. Install a cover over the driveshaft boot to protect it from fluid and impact damage.
5. On Nova vehicles:

A. Remove the brake flex hose clip at the strut bracket.

B. Disconnect the brake flex hose from the brake pipe at the strut. Remove the brake hose clips. Use a small pan to catch any leakage.
C. Pull the brake hose back through the opening in the strut bracket. Plug the lines to prevent any dirt form entering.
D. Remove the 2 brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Hang it out of the way with a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the
flex hose and do not disconnect the hose from the caliper.
E. Mark the position of the adjusting cam for reassembly.
Fig. Fig. 5: Use care in disconnecting the brake lines. Nova above, Prizm below

Fig. Fig. 6: Marking the Nova camber shim before removal

 6. On Prizm vehicles:

A. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake caliper and drain the fluid into a small pan.
B. Remove the clip from the brake hose and remove the hose from the bracket.
C. Disconnect the ABS sensor wire from the shock absorber if so equipped.
D. Use a sharp instrument or scribing tool to make matchmarks in all three dimensions on the steering knuckle. The strut must be reinstalled in
its exact previous position.

7. Remove the 2 bolts which attach the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. The steering knuckle bolt holes have collars that extend about 5mm.
Be careful to clear them when separating the steering knuckle from the strut assembly.

Press down on the lower suspension arm in order to remove the strut assembly. This must be done to clear the collars on the steering knuckle bolt holes
when removing the strut assembly.

8. Remove the strut assembly. Remember that the spring is still under tension. It will stay in place as long as the top nut on the shock piston shaft is
not loosened. Handle the strut carefully and do not allow the coating on the spring to become damaged.

DISASSEMBLY
See Figures 7 and 8

CAUTION
This procedure requires the use of a spring compressor; it cannot be performed without one. If you do not have access to this special tool, do not attempt
to disassemble the strut. The coil springs are retained under considerable pressure. They can exert enough force to cause serious injury. Exercise
extreme caution when disassembling the strut.

Fig. Fig. 7: Marking the Prizm steering knuckle before disassembly

Fig. Fig. 8: GM tools for compressing the spring and disassembling the strut. Equivalent tools may be rented from a reputable
supply house.

9. Place the strut assembly in a pipe vise or strut vise.

WARNING
Do not attempt to clamp the strut assembly in a flat jaw vise as this will result in damage to the strut tube.

10. Attach a spring compressor and compress the spring until the upper spring retainer is free of any spring tension. Do not over-compress the spring.
11. Use a spring seat holder to hold the upper support and then remove the nut on the end of the shock piston rod.
12. Remove the bearing plate, the support and the upper spring retainer. Slowly and cautiously unscrew the spring compressor until all spring tension is
relieved. Remove the spring and the dust cover.

Do not allow the piston rod to retract into the shock absorber. If it falls, screw a nut onto the rod and pull the rod out by the nut. Do not use pliers to grip
the rod as they will damage its surface, resulting in leaks, uneven operation or seal damage. Be extremely careful not to stress or hit the rod.

INSPECTION
Check the shock absorber by moving the piston shaft through its full range of travel. It should move smoothly and evenly
throughout its entire travel without any trace of binding or notching. Use a small straightedge to check the piston shaft for any bending or deformation. If
a Prizm shock absorber is replaced, the old one should be drilled at the bottom to vent the internal gas. Wear safety goggles and drill a small hole (2-
3mm) into the base of the shock absorber. The gas within the strut is colorless, odorless and non-toxic, but should be vented to make the unit safe for
disposal.

Inspect the spring for any sign of deterioration or cracking. The waterproof coating on the coils should be intact to prevent rusting. A quick check for a
cracked spring is to hit the spring sharply with a small metal mallet or wrench handle. An intact spring will resonate, similar to a distant gong; a cracked
spring will have much less resonance and a distinctly different sound.

Check the upper strut mount assembly for any abnormal noise, binding or restricted motion. Lubricate the upper bearing with multi-purpose grease
before reinstallation.

ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

See Figures 9 and 10

WARNING
Never reuse a self-locking nut. Always replace self-locking nuts with new hardware.

13. Loosely assemble all components onto the strut assembly. Make sure the mark on the upper spring seat is facing the outside of the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 9: Make sure the upper strut seat marks face to the outside during reassembly.

14. Compress the spring, carefully aligning the shaft guide rod with the hole in the upper mount. Align the lower spring seat. Do not over-compress the
spring; compress it just enough to allow installation of the shaft nut.
15. Install the shaft nut and tighten it until the strut shaft begins to rotate.
16. Double check that the spring is correctly seated in the upper and lower mounts and reposition it as needed. Slowly release the tension on the spring
compressor and remove it from the strut assembly.
17. Tighten the shaft nut to 34 ft. lbs.
 18. On Nova vehicles, install the camber adjusting cam into the knuckle, observing the matchmarks made during disassembly.

Fig. Fig. 10: The strut to knuckle bolts must be set to the correct tightness.

19. Place the strut assembly in position and install the strut to knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque:

Nova with VIN code 4 engine: 105 ft. lbs.

Nova with VIN code 5 engine: 166 ft. lbs.
All Prisms: 194 ft. lbs.

20. Using a floor jack and a piece of wood, gently elevate the control arm to the point that the upper mount can be aligned with the holes in the shock
tower. Insert the bolts into the upper holes and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (Nova with VIN Code 4 engine) or 29 ft. lbs. (Nova with
VIN code 5 engine and all Prizms).
21. Pack the shaft nut area with grease and install the dust cover.
22. On Nova vehicles, install the brake caliper and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. Pull the brake hose through the strut bracket opening and connect the
fitting. Tighten the fitting to 11 ft. lbs. Install the flex hose clip at the strut bracket.
23. On Prizm vehicles, install the brake hose in the bracket and install the clip. Connect the hose to the caliper and tighten the fitting to 22 ft. lbs.
Connect the ABS sensor wire to the shock absorber, if so equipped.
24. Install the wheel and install the lug nuts snugly.
25. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs.
26. Bleed the brake system and top up the brake fluid level. Please refer to Brakes for complete directions.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Stabilizer Bar or Sway Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

Nova with VIN Code 5 Engine

See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the sway bar links from the lower control arms.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Front stabilizer bar link and bushings

2. Disconnect the sway bar brackets from the body.

REPAIR GUIDE TIP:

Check the bushings inside the brackets for wear or deformation. A worn bushing can cause a distinct bang or thunk as the bar twists during cornering.

3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.

4. Remove the sway bar from the car. Examine the insulators (bushings) carefully for any sign of wear and replace them if necessary.
5. To reinstall, place the bar in position and reconnect the exhaust system using new nuts. Tighten the nuts to 46 ft. lbs.
6. Install both stabilizer bar brackets and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs.
7. Connect the sway bar links to the control arms with the bolts, insulators and new nuts. Tighten the nuts to 13 ft. lbs.

1991-92 GSi Models

See Figure 2

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the left stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar.
3. Remove the right stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar.
4. Remove the catalytic converter from the front exhaust pipe.
5. Remove the right stabilizer bracket from the floor pan.
6. Remove the left stabilizer bracket from the floor pan.
7. Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle. Remove the bushing brackets and retainers from the stabilizer bar.

To install:

8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use the following torque specifications:

A. Torque the bushing bracket retaining bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
B. Torque the left and right stabilizer link nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
C. Torque the left and right stabilizer bracket bolts to 94 ft. lbs. (127 Nm).
D. Torque the left and right stabilizer bracket nut and bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

9. To remove the stabilizer link, use the following procedure.

A. With the vehicle still raise and safely supported, remove the stabilizer link from the stabilizer bar.
B. Remove the stabilizer link from the control arm.
C. Remove the stabilizer link from the vehicle.

10. Torque the stabilizer link nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
 Fig. Fig. 2: Front suspension - 1991-92 GSi models

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Brakes

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Adjustments
DRUM BRAKES Print

See Figures 1 and 2

The rear drum brakes are equipped with automatic adjusters actuated by the brake mechanism. No periodic adjustment of the drum brakes is necessary
if this mechanism is working properly. If the pedal travel is greater than normal, it may be due to a lack of adjustment at the rear. In a safe location, drive
the car backwards at low speed. While backing, pump the brake pedal slowly several times. (Neither the speed of the car or the speed of pumping the
pedal has any effect on the adjustment. The idea is to apply the brakes several times while backing.) Drive forward and check the pedal feel by braking
from moderate speed. It may take 2 or 3 passes in reverse to bring the pedal to the correct travel; each brake application moves the adjuster very little.
It will take several applications to take up excess clearance.

If brake shoe-to-drum clearance is incorrect and applying and releasing the brakes in reverse does not adjust it properly, the parts will have to be
disassembled for repair.

An alternate method of adjustment can be used when the brakes have been disassembled or when the reversing method does not work.

1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle. If only the rear wheels are elevated, block the front wheels with chocks. Once the vehicle is firmly on stands,
release the parking brake.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the brake drum. It will not come off if the parking brake is applied.

CAUTION
Brake pads and shoes contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air!
Avoid inhaling any dust from brake surfaces! When cleaning brakes, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

4. If the brake drum cannot be removed easily:

A. Insert a screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate and hold the adjusting lever away from the star wheel.
B. Using another screw driver or a brake adjusting tool, turn the wheel to reduce the tension (increase the clearance) on the brake shoes.
5. Use a brake drum measuring tool with both inside diameter and outside diameter capability (GM Tool J-22364-01 or equivalent). Measure the inside
diameter of the brake drum and record the reading.
6. Measure the diameter of the brake shoe assemble at the friction surface. Use the adjusting wheel to adjust the brake shoes until the diameter of the
shoes is either 0.60mm (Prizm) or 0.33mm (Nova) less than the diameter of the drum. This small clearance is important; over-adjusted brakes
cause drag and premature wear on the shoes.
7. Install the brake drum(s) and install the rear wheel(s).
8. Apply the parking brake and lower the car to the ground.

Fig. Fig. 1: Measuring the diameters of the drum and shoe assemblies. GM tool shown.
 Fig. Fig. 2: Backing off the adjuster

BRAKE PEDAL
The correct adjustment of the brake pedal height, free-play and reserve distance is critical to the correct operation of the
brake system. These 3 measurements inter-relate and should be performed in sequence.

Pedal Height
See Figure 3

1. Measure the pedal height from the top of the pedal pad to the floor. Correct distances are: Nova, 147-157mm, 1989-92 Prizm, 139-149mm and
1993 Prizm, 143.6-153.6mm.

Fig. Fig. 3: Pedal height

2. If it is necessary to adjust the pedal height, loosen the brake light switch and back it off so that some clearance exists between it and the pedal
arm.

On Novas, it may be necessary to remove the lower dash trim panel and air duct for access.

3. Adjust the pedal height by loosening the locknut and turning the pedal pushrod.
4. Return the brake light switch to a position in which it lightly contacts the stopper on the pedal arm.
Pedal Free-play
See Figure 4

1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times until there is no vacuum held in the booster.
2. The free-play distance is between the at rest pedal position and the position at which beginning of pedal resistance is felt. This represents the
distance the pedal pushrod moves before actuating the booster air valve. If there is no free-play, the car goes down the road with a slight vacuum
leak and the brakes slightly applied. Correct free-play is 3-6mm for 1985-92 Nova and Prizm, and 1-6mm for 1993 Prizm.

Fig. Fig. 4: Pedal free-play

3. If adjustment is necessary, adjust the pedal pushrod to give the correct clearance. After adjusting the pedal free-play, recheck the pedal height.
4. Double check the adjustment of the brake light switch; it should trigger the lights just at the end of the pedal free-play.

Pedal Reserve Distance

See Figure 5

1. With the transaxle in PARK or NEUTRAL and the parking brake fully released, start the engine and apply normal braking effort to the pedal. Depress
the pedal fully, but don't try to put it through the floor.
 Fig. Fig. 5: Pedal reserve

2. While the pedal is depressed, have a helper measure the distance from the top of the pedal pad to the floor, as illustrated. This distance is the extra
travel available to the pushrod if it must work without vacuum assist or if the brakes are worn or severely out of adjustment. If the pedal height and
pedal free-play are correctly adjusted, the pedal reserve distance must be at least 65mm for Nova or 55mm for 1989-92 Prizm and 70mm for 1993
Prizm. The reserve distance can be greater than specified but must not be less. If the reserve distance is less than specification, the brake system
must be diagnosed for leaks or component failure.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Bleeding the Brake System

See Figure 1 Print
On vehicles equipped with ABS, the hydraulic modulator must be bled prior to the brake calipers and wheel cylinders. For complete ABS
bleeding, refer to Anti-Lock Brakes at the end of this Section.

It is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system any time system has been opened or has trapped air within the fluid lines. It may be necessary to bleed the
system at all 4 brakes if air has been introduced through a low fluid level or by disconnecting brake pipes at the master cylinder.

If a line is disconnected at 1 wheel only, generally only that brake needs bleeding. If lines are disconnected at any fitting between the master cylinder
and the brake, the system served by the disconnected pipe must be bled.

WARNING
Do not allow brake fluid to splash or spill onto painted surfaces; the paint will be damaged. If spillage occurs, flush the area immediately with clean
water.

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with brake fluid and keep it at least half full throughout the bleeding procedure.
2. If the master cylinder has been removed or disconnected, it must be bled before any brake unit is bled. To bleed the master cylinder:

A. Disconnect the front brake line from the master cylinder and allow fluid to flow from the front connector port.
B. Reconnect the line to the master cylinder and tighten it until it is fluid tight.
C. Have a helper press the brake pedal down one time and hold it down.
D. Loosen the front brake line connection at the master cylinder. This will allow trapped air to escape, along with some fluid.
E. Again tighten the line, release the pedal slowly and repeat the sequence (steps c-d-e) until only fluid runs from the port. No air bubbles should
be present in the fluid.
F. Final tighten the line fitting at the master cylinder to 11 ft. lbs.
G. After all the air has been bled from the front connection, bleed the master cylinder at the rear connection by repeating steps A-E.

3. Place the correct size box-end or line wrench over the bleeder valve and attach a tight-fitting transparent hose over the bleeder. Allow the tube to
hang submerged in a transparent container of clean brake fluid. The fluid must remain above the end of the hose at all times, otherwise the system
will ingest air instead of fluid.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Brake bleeding

4. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times slowly and hold it down.
1 1
5. Slowly unscrew the bleeder valve ( /4- / 2 turn is usually enough). After the initial rush of air and fluid, have the assistant slowly release the
brake pedal. When the pedal is released, tighten the bleeder.
6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until no air bubbles are seen in the hose or container. If air is constantly appearing after repeated bleedings, the system must
be examined for the source of the leak or loose fitting.
7. If the entire system must be bled, begin with the right rear, then the left front, left rear and right front brake in that order. After each brake is bled,
check and top off the fluid level in the reservoir.

WARNING
Do not reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

8. After bleeding, check the pedal for sponginess or vague feel. Repeat the bleeding procedure as necessary to correct.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Brake Hoses
INSPECTION Print

1. Inspect the lines and hoses in a well lighted area. Use a small mirror to allow you to see concealed parts of the hose or line. Check the entire length
and circumference of each line or hose.
2. Look for any sign of wear, deformation, corrosion, cracking, bends, swelling or thread damage.
3. The slightest sign of leakage requires immediate attention.
 4. Check all clamps for tightness and check that all lines and hoses have sufficient clearance from moving parts and heat sources.
5. Check that any lines passing through grommets pass through the center of the grommet and are not forced against the side of the hole. Relieve any
excess tension.
6. Some metal lines may contain spring-like coils. These coils absorb vibration and prevent the line from cracking under strain. Do not attempt to
straighten the coils or change their diameter.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

7. Elevate and safely support the vehicle.

8. Remove the wheel.
9. Clean all dirt from the hose junctions.
10. Place a catch pan under the hose area.
11. Using 2 wrenches, disconnect the flexible hose from the steel brake line at the strut assembly.
12. If equipped with disc brakes, disconnect the brake hose union bolt at the brake caliper. If equipped with drum brakes, disconnect the hose from the
steel pipe running to the wheel cylinder.
13. Remove the hose retaining clips and remove the hose from the vehicle.
14. If the system is to remain disconnected for more than the time it takes to swap hoses, tape or plug the line and caliper to prevent dirt and moisture
from entering.
15. Install the new brake hose into the retaining clips.
16. Connect the hose to the caliper (disc brakes) and tighten the union bolt to 22 ft. lbs. or connect the hose to the short line running into the wheel
cylinder and tighten the fitting to 11 ft. lbs.
17. Connect the steel brake line to the hose at the strut. Start the threads by hand and make sure the joint is properly threaded before tightening.
Tighten the fitting to 11 ft. lbs.
18. Install the wheel.
19. Bleed the brake system.
20. Lower the car to the ground.

Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the front brake hose

Fig. Fig. 2: Rear brake hose connections

Fig. Fig. 3: Front brake hose connections

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Brake Light Switch
The brake light switch is located at the top of the pedal arm. It is the switch which turns the brake lights on when the brakes are applied. The Print
plunger type switch is held in the off position by the normal position of the brake pedal; when the pedal moves during brake application, the
switch plunger moves forward and the brake lights are brought on.

The switch is almost always the first place to look for the cause of the brake lights flickering over bumps or staying on without use of the brakes. If the
brake lights fail to work with the brakes applied, check the fuse first and then check the switch.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-92
See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the wiring from the switch terminals. Put a piece of tape over each exposed wiring connector; 1 wire terminal may be hot even though the
ignition is off. If it accidentally touches metal, a fuse will blow.

On Novas, it may be necessary to remove the lower dash trim panel and air duct for access.

3. Loosen the locknut closest to the brake pedal arm. Unscrew the switch from the nut and remove it from the bracket.

To install:

4. Install the new switch and tighten the retaining nuts finger tight when the switch plunger is lightly compressed against the stopper on the pedal.
5. Connect an ohmmeter across the terminals of the switch. Move the brake pedal and check the on-off behavior of the switch. Adjust the switch so
that the switch comes on at the bottom of the pedal free-play. This brings the brake lights on just as the brakes apply but no sooner.
6. Tighten the locknuts to hold the switch in position.
7. Remove the tape and connect the wiring to the switch.

Fig. Fig. 1: Brake light switch - 1985-92

1993
See Figure 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Slide the hood latch release cable sideways to release from the holder.
3. Disconnect the hood release cable from the hood latch release lever.
4. Remove the hood latch release lever from the knee bolster by removing the 2 retaining screws.
5. Remove the knee bolster from the instrument panel by removing the 2 cover plates, 2 screws, and four bolts.
6. Disconnect the left side ventilation duct from the left side duct outlet.
7. Disconnect the stoplamp switch electrical connector from the switch.
8. Loosen the stoplamp switch locknut and loosen the pushrod locknut and remove the switch.

To install:

9. Adjust the pedal height by turning the pushrod until the brake pedal height is within specification and tighten the pushrod locknut to 18 ft. lbs. (25
Nm). Refer the Pedal Height procedure earlier in the Section.
10. Adjust the stoplamp switch by turning it until the distance between the end of the stoplamp switch plunger and the end of the threaded portion of
the switch is 0.02-0.09 inch (0.5-2.4 mm). Tighten the stoplamp switch locknut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
11. Connect the stoplamp switch electrical connector to the switch.
12. Connect the left side ventilation to the left side duct outlet.
13. Install the knee bolster to the instrument panel with the 2 screws and four bolts.
14. Install the 2 cover plates.
15. Install the hood latch release lever to the knee bolster with the 2 retaining screws.
16. Connect the hood release cable to the hood latch release lever.
17. Slide the hood latch release cable into the holder.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 2: Brake light switch clearance - 1993

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Brake System Valves

PROPORTIONING VALVE Print

See Figures 1 and 2

Fig. Fig. 1: Proportioning valve and master cylinder assembly

 Fig. Fig. 2: Proportioning valve location on the center of the engine bulkhead

The proportioning valve is located on the center of the firewall under the hood on all Prizms without ABS or attached to the hydraulic modulator on
vehicles with ABS. Except for leakage or impact damage, it rarely needs replacement. If it must be removed, all 5 brake lines must be labeled and
removed and the valve removed from its mount. Clean the fittings before removal to prevent dirt from entering the ports. After the lines are reconnected
and carefully tightened to 11 ft. lbs., the entire brake system must be bled.

On vehicles equipped ABS, refer to Hydraulic Modulator, REMOVAL & INSTALLATION procedure outlined in Anti-Lock Brakes at the end of this Section.

VACUUM CHECK VALVE

See Figure 3

Fig. Fig. 3: Inspection of the vacuum check valve

The brake vacuum check valve allows vacuum to flow out of the brake booster but will not allow back-flow. This maintains a supply of vacuum within the
booster during periods of low engine vacuum. The valve can be removed from the hose by hand. Once removed, the valve can be tested by gently
blowing through it. It should allow airflow in 1 direction but not the other. When installing a new valve, make sure it is positioned so that the air can flow
from the booster to the engine. Most replacement valves have an arrow showing the direction of airflow.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Master Cylinder
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

WARNING
Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surfaces of the vehicle; it will damage the paint. If spillage occurs, rinse the area immediately with
water.Handle the steel brake lines very carefully. Once they are bent or kinked, they cannot be straightened.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Clean the area at the reservoir and brake lines to prevent entry of dirt into the system.
 3. Disconnect the wiring to the brake fluid level switch. Release the wiring from any clips.

Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the brake master cylinder - 1985-92

Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the brake master cylinder - 1993 without ABS

4. On Prizm vehicles, remove the air intake duct.

5. Use a syringe to remove the fluid from the reservoir. Store the fluid in a clean glass jar with a lid.
6. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. Plug or tape the lines immediately to keep dirt and moisture out of the system.
7. Remove the retaining nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster.
8. Remove the 3-way union from the booster stud on vehicles not equipped with ABS or 2-way union with ABS.
9. Remove the master cylinder from the studs.
10. Remove the seal or gasket from the booster.
11. When reinstalling, always use a new gasket or seal and install the master cylinder to the booster. On Nova vehicles, confirm that the UP mark on
the master cylinder boot is in the correct position.
12. Install the 2 way or 3-way union bracket over the stud and install the retaining nuts finger tight.
13. Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Make certain each fitting is correctly threaded and tighten each fitting 1-2 turns. The job is made
easier by having a small amount of movement available at the master cylinder mounting studs.
14. Tighten the master cylinder retaining nuts to 9.5 ft. lbs. (115 inch lbs.)
15. Tighten the brake line fittings to 11 ft. lbs. Do not overtighten these fittings.
16. On Prizm vehicles, install the air intake duct.
17. Connect the wiring to the brake fluid sensing switch and attach any wiring clips.
18. Fill the master cylinder reservoir.
19. Bleed the brakes.
20. Connect the negative battery cable
 OVERHAUL
See Figures 3 through 8

21. Remove master cylinder from the car. Remove the cap and strainer from the reservoir.
22. Remove the set screw and remove the reservoir.
23. Mount the cylinder in a vise.
24. Remove the 2 grommets from the cylinder.
25. Using a screwdriver or similar tool, push the pistons all the way into the bore and remove the piston stopper bolt with its gasket.
26. Hold the piston into the bore and remove the snapring with snapring pliers.
27. Place a rag on 2 wooden blocks. Remove the master cylinder from the vise and tap the cylinder flange between the blocks until the piston tip
protrudes.
28. Remove the piston by pulling it straight out.

WARNING
If the piston is removed at an angle, the cylinder bore may become damaged.

29. Inspect all parts of the pistons, grommets and bore for any sign of wear, cuts, corrosion or scoring. Check the inlet port and return port for
obstructions. Use compressed air to clear any dirt or foreign matter from the area.

To assemble:

30. Apply clean brake fluid to the rubber parts of the pistons.
31. Insert the 2 springs and pistons straight into the bore. Do not angle them during installation.

WARNING
Be careful not to damage the rubber lips on the pistons.

Fig. Fig. 3: Master cylinder components - 1989-92

 Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the stopper bolt

32. Install the snapring while pushing in the piston.

33. Push the pistons all the way in and install the piston stopper bolt and gasket. Tighten it to 7 ft. lbs.
34. Install the 2 grommets.
35. Install the cap and strainer onto the reservoir, then press the reservoir into position on the cylinder.
36. Install the set screw while pushing on the reservoir. Tighten the screw to 15 inch lbs.

There may be a slight bit of play in the reservoir after the set screw is installed. This is normal and no washers or spacers should be installed.

37. Reinstall the master cylinder.

Fig. Fig. 5: To remove the snapring, the piston must be pushed into the bore
Fig. Fig. 6: Lightly tapping the flanges on protected blocks will release the pistons

Fig. Fig. 7: Removing the reservoir set screw

 Fig. Fig. 8: Master cylinder reservoir assembly - 1993

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Power Brake Booster(Vacuum Booster)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. On Prizm vehicles, remove the top of the air cleaner and the intake duct. Remove the charcoal canister mounting nuts.
3. Remove the brake master cylinder from the booster.
4. Remove the vacuum hose from the booster.
5. Inside the car, disconnect the pedal return spring. Disconnect the clip and the clevis pin.

Fig. Fig. 1: Power booster removal - 1989-92 models shown, other models similar

6. Remove the brake booster retaining nuts. It will be helpful to have a helper support the booster while the nuts are loosened.
7. Remove the booster from the engine compartment.
8. When reinstalling, have a helper hold the booster in position while you install the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 9.5 ft. lbs. (115 inch lbs.)
9. Install the clevis pin and clip, then install the pedal return spring.
10. Connect the vacuum hose to the booster.
11. Install the master cylinder onto the booster and tighten the nuts to 9.5 ft. lbs. (115 inch lbs.)
12. On Prizm vehicles, install the charcoal canister mounting bolts and install the air cleaner top and intake duct.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
14. Bleed the brake system.
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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Understanding the Brakes

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM Print

Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes of all modern automobiles. A hydraulic system
rather than a mechanical system is used for 2 reasons. First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all parts of an automobile by small hoses - some of
which are flexible - without taking up a significant amount of room or posing routing problems. Second, a great mechanical advantage can be given to
the brake pedal, and the foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be reduced by making the surface area of the master cylinder pistons smaller
than that of any of the pistons in the wheel cylinders or calipers.

The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir and a single or double cylinder and piston assembly. Double type master cylinders are designed to
separate the front and rear braking systems hydraulically in case of a leak. The master cylinder coverts mechanical motion from the pedal into hydraulic
pressure within the lines. This pressure is translated back into mechanical motion at the wheels by either the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or the caliper
(disc brakes). Since these components receive the pressure from the master cylinder, they are generically classed as slave cylinders in the system.

Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the vehicle's frame near each of the vehicle's wheels. The fluid is then carried to the slave cylinders by
flexible tubes in order to allow for suspension and steering movements.

Each wheel cylinder contains 2 pistons, 1 at either end, which push outward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe into contact with the drum. In
disc brake systems, the slave cylinders are part of the calipers. One or four cylinders are used to force the brake pads against the disc, but all cylinders
contain 1 piston only. All slave cylinder pistons employ some type of seal, usually made of rubber, to minimize the leakage of fluid around the piston. A
rubber dust boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against dust and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of either the piston or the brake actuating
rod.

When at rest the entire hydraulic system, from the piston(s) in the master cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon
application of the brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master cylinder piston(s) is forced through the lines to the slave cylinders. Here it forces the
pistons outward, in the case of drum brakes, and inward toward the disc in the case of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is opposed by return springs
mounted outside the cylinders in drum brakes, and by internal springs or spring seals, in disc brakes.

Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located inside the master cylinder immediately returns the master cylinder piston(s) to the normal position. The
pistons contain check valves and the master cylinder has compensating ports drilled within it. These are uncovered as the pistons reach their normal
position. The piston check valves allow fluid to flow toward the wheel cylinders or calipers as the pistons withdraw. Then, as the return springs force the
brake pads or shoes into the released position, the excess fluid in the lines is allowed to re-enter the reservoir through the compensating ports.

Dual circuit master cylinders employ 2 pistons, located one behind the other, in the same cylinder. The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical
linkage from the brake pedal. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid trapped between the 2 pistons. If a leak develops in front of the secondary
pistons, it moves forward until it bottoms against the front of the master cylinder, and the fluid trapped between the pistons will operate the rear brakes.
If the rear brakes develop a leak, the primary piston will move forward until direct contact with the secondary piston takes place, and it will force the
secondary piston to actuate the front brakes. In either case, the brake pedal moves farther when the brakes are applied and less braking power is
available.

All dual-circuit systems incorporate a switch which senses either line pressure or fluid level. This system will warn the driver when only half of the brake
system is operational.

In some disc brake systems, this valve body also contains a metering valve and, in some cases, a proportioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure
from traveling to the disc brakes on the front wheels until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have contacted the drum, insuring that the front brakes will
never be used alone. The proportioning valve controls the pressure to the rear brakes avoiding rear wheel lock-up during very hard braking.

DISC BRAKES
CAUTION
Brake pads contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid
inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that press outward against a circular drum, disc brake systems utilize a cast iron disc with brake pads
positioned on either side of it. An easily seen analogy is the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads squeeze onto the rim of the bike wheel,
slowing its motion. Automobile disc brakes use the identical principal but apply the braking effort to a separate disc instead of the wheel.

The disc or rotor is a 1-piece casting mounted just inside the wheel. Some discs are one solid piece while others have cooling fins between the 2 braking
surfaces. These vented rotors enable air to circulate between the braking surfaces cooling them quicker and making them less sensitive to heat buildup
and fade. Disc brakes are only slightly affected by dirt and water since contaminants are thrown off by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped off by
the pads. Also, the equal clamping action of the 2 brake pads tend to ensure uniform, straight-line stops, although unequal application of the pads
between the left and right wheels can cause a vicious pull under braking. All disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting.

There are 3 general types of disc brakes:

The fixed caliper design uses 2 pistons mounted on either side of the rotor (in each side of the caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does not move.
This is a very efficient brake system but the size of the caliper and its mounts adds weight and bulk to the car.

The sliding and floating designs are quite similar. In fact, these 2 types are often lumped together. In both designs, one is moved into contact with the
rotor by hydraulic force. The caliper, which is not held in a fixed position, moves slightly, bringing the other pad into contact with the rotor. There are
various methods of attaching floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom or top, and some slide on mounting bolts. Many uneven brake wear problems
can be caused by dirty or seized slides or pivots.

DRUM BRAKES
CAUTION
Brake shoes contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with Compressed air! Avoid
inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

Drum brakes employ 2 brake shoes mounted on a stationary backing plate. These shoes are positioned inside a circular cast iron drum which rotates with
the wheel. The shoes are held in place by springs; this allows them to slide toward the drum (when they are applied) while keeping the linings and drums
in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the backing plate. When the brakes are applied, hydraulic
pressure forces the wheel cylinder's 2 actuating links outward. Since these links bear directly against the top of the brake shoes, the tops of the shoes are
then forced outward against the inside of the drum. This action forces the bottoms of the 2 shoes to contact the brake drum by rotating the entire
assembly slightly (known as servo action). When the pressure within the wheel cylinder is relaxed, return springs pull the shoes away from the drum.

Most modern drum brakes are designed to self-adjust during application when the vehicle is moving in reverse. This motion caused both shoes to rotate
very slightly with the drum, rocking an adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the adjusting screw by means of a star wheel. This on-board
adjustment system reduces the need for maintenance adjustments but most drivers don't back up enough to keep the brakes properly set.

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER

Virtually all cars today use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force
and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is
located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the
brake pedal.

The vacuum diaphragm housing is connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the
diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.

Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master
cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs return
the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position.

If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any
power assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels "harder" than usual.

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Body & Trim

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Antenna
The mast and cable are 1 piece. If the mast is damaged or broken, the entire antenna assembly including the cable must be replaced. Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1985-92

1. Remove the console side panel, to the right of the accelerator pedal.
2. Disconnect the antenna cable from the radio by reaching through the back of the console and disconnecting the cable from its socket. If you can't
quite reach or release the cable, the radio will have to be loosened in the dash and disconnected from the front.
3. Remove the 2 screws holding the hood release lever and move the lever out of the way.
4. Remove the lower left dashboard trim and disconnect the speaker wiring.
5. Remove the left side kick panel.
6. Remove the retaining screw and remove the left side cowl trim.
7. Attach a long piece of mechanic's wire or heavy string to the end of the antenna wire. This will track up through the pillar as you remove the old
antenna and be available to pull the new line into place.
8. Remove the 2 attaching screws at the antenna mast. Remove the antenna and carefully pull the cable up the pillar. Use a helper to insure the end
inside the car does not snag or pull other wires.

To install:

9. Remove the mechanic's wire or twine from the old cable and attach it to the new cable. Make sure it is tied so that the plug will stay straight during
installation
10. With your helper, feed the new cable into the pillar while pulling gently on the guide wire or string. Route the antenna cable properly under the
dash, making sure it will not foul on the steering column or pedal linkages. Route the cable high enough that there is no chance of it hanging
around the driver's feet. Use tape or cable ties to secure it.
11. Remove the guide line from the antenna cable. Route the antenna into the radio and install the connector.
12. Install the attaching screws holding the mast to the pillar. Make sure the screws are properly threaded and that both the screws and their holes are
free of dirt or corrosion. A poor connection at these screws can affect antenna and radio performance.
13. Install the left side cowl trim and the left side kick panel.
14. Connect the speaker wiring and install the lower left dashboard trim.
15. Install the hood release lever.
16. Install the console side panel.

1993

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the left side kick panel by disengaging the clips.
3. Disconnect the antenna cable from the antenna cable extension. Attach a piece of mechanic's wire to the antenna cable to assist in reinstalling
through the A-pillar.
4. Remove the antenna base attaching screws from the roof and remove the antenna from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Remove the mechanic's wire from the old cable and attach it to the new cable.
 6. Feed the new cable into the pillar while pulling gently on the guide wire. Use tape or cable ties to secure it.
7. Remove the guide line from the antenna cable. Route the antenna into the radio and install the connector.
8. Install the attaching screws holding the mast to the pillar. Make sure the screws are properly threaded and that both the screws and their holes are
free of dirt or corrosion. A poor connection at these screws can affect antenna and radio performance.
9. Install the left side kick panel.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Bumpers
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

The bumpers, front or rear, are actually assemblies. The outer surface is the cover
or fascia, behind which is found the absorbent material (foam block or honeycomb lattice) and the reinforcing steel bar. The components cannot be
removed separately; the entire assembly must be removed from the car and then broken down into individual pieces.

CAUTION
The bumper assemblies are heavy. Always support the bumper from below in at least two places before removing the last bolts. Never lie under the
bumper while removing it.

Front Bumper
NOVA
See Figure 1

1. Remove the headlamp assemblies.

2. Remove the grille.
3. Remove the upper bumper retaining bolts.
4. Support the bumper.
5. Remove the lower bumper bolts and remove the bumper assembly.

Fig. Fig. 1: Front bumper components - Nova

6. The fascia may be removed by removing the nuts, bolts and lower retainer. Pay close attention to the location of any washers or shims during
 disassembly. They must be reinserted in their original location.
7. Inspect the reinforcing bar closely for any sign of twisting, crushing or deformation. Check the mounting bars for straightness. Do not attempt to
straighten any bent metal components; they must be replaced.
8. Reassemble the fascia and absorber to the bar and tighten the nuts and bolts.
9. With a helper, place the bumper assembly on the supports and position it to the front of the car.
10. Install the lower bolts snug but not tight, then install the upper bolts snugly.
11. Check the bumper alignment in relation to the bodywork. Seams should be even all the way across the car and the bumper should be at the same
height on both sides. Reposition the bumper as necessary and tighten the mounting bolts, lower ones first, to 70 ft. lbs.
12. Install the grille.
13. Install the headlight assemblies.

1989-92 PRIZM
See Figure 2

1. At each wheelwell, remove the 2 screws holding the bumper cover to the fender.
2. Disconnect the turn signal wiring connectors.
3. Support the bumper.
4. Remove the 2 vertical 17mm bolts holding the bumper and remove the bumper from the car.
5. To disassemble the bumper, remove the turn signal assemblies. Remove the upper bolts and the lower nuts from the edges of the bumper.
Separate the assembly into its component pieces.

Fig. Fig. 2: Front bumper components - 1989-92 Prizm

6. Inspect the reinforcing bar closely for any sign of twisting, crushing or deformation. Check the mounting bars for straightness. Do not attempt to
straighten any bent metal components; they must be replaced.
7. Reassemble the fascia and absorber to the bar and tighten the nuts and bolts. Install the turn signal lamps.
8. With a helper, place the bumper assembly on the supports and position it to the body of the car.
9. Install the bolts snug but not tight.
10. Check the bumper alignment in relation to the bodywork. Seams should be even all the way across the car and the bumper should be at the same
height on both sides. Reposition the bumper as necessary and tighten the mounting bolts to 70 ft. lbs.
11. Connect the turn signal wiring harnesses.
12. Install the 2 screws at each wheelwell.

1993 PRIZM
See Figure 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the 4 screws from the front grille. Unclip and remove the grille from the vehicle.
3. Remove the 4 screws along the top of the front bumper fascia. Loosen the wheelhousings on both sides of the vehicle to gain access to two front
bumper fascia upper support bolts.
4. Remove the two front bumper fascia support bolts, 1 on each side of the fascia.
5. Remove the 5 bolts from the bottom of the front bumper fascia. Pull the front bumper fascia forward, disconnect the turn signal and the side marker
bulb sockets and remove fascia from the vehicle.
6. Remove the 4 plastic clips and the front bumper energy absorber from the vehicle.
7. Remove the 4 nuts retaining the front bumper impact bar.
8. Remove the front bumper impact bar from the front bumper impact arms.

To install:

9. Install the front bumper impact bar to the front bumper impact arms; secure with 4 nuts. Tighten the front bumper impact bar nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45
Nm).
10. Connect the front bumper energy absorber to the vehicle; secure with 4 plastic clips.
11. Connect the front bumper fascia to the vehicle, connecting the turn signal and the side marker bulb sockets.
12. Connect the 5 bolts to the bottom of the front bumper fascia. Tighten the front bumper fascia bolts to 15 ft lbs. (20 Nm).
13. Connect the two bumper fascia upper support bolts, 1 on each side of the front bumper fascia. Tighten the front bumper fascia upper support bolts
to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
14. Install the 4 screws along the top of the front bumper fascia. Clip the front grille into place; secure with 4 screws.
15. Connect the negative (-) battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 3: Front bumper components - 1993 Prizm

Rear Bumper
NOVA
See Figure 4

1. Open the trunk lid and lift the padding or carpet out of the way.
2. Remove the plugs to gain access to the bumper retaining bolts.
3. Support the bumper.
4. Remove the bumper bolts.
5. The fascia may be removed by removing the nuts, bolts and lower retainer. Pay close attention to the location of any washers or shims during
disassembly. They must be reinserted in their original location.
 Fig. Fig. 4: Rear bumper components - Nova

6. Inspect the reinforcing bar closely for any sign of twisting, crushing or deformation. Check the mounting bars for straightness. Do not attempt to
straighten any bent metal components; they must be replaced.
7. Reassemble the fascia and absorber to the bar and tighten the nuts and bolts.
8. With a helper, place the bumper assembly on the supports and position it to the body of the car.
9. Install the bolts snug but not tight.
10. Check the bumper alignment in relation to the bodywork. Seams should be even all the way across the car and the bumper should be at the same
height on both sides. Reposition the bumper as necessary and tighten the mounting bolts to 70 ft. lbs.
11. Install the plugs over the bolts.
12. Reinstall the trunk mat.

1989-92 PRIZM
See Figure 5

1. At each wheelwell, remove the 2 screws holding the bumper cover to the fender.
2. Remove the 2 nuts on each side holding the bumper mounting posts to the bodywork.
3. Support the bumper.
4. Remove the 4 nuts (14mm) holding the bumper to the frame of the car and remove the bumper assembly.
5. To remove the bumper cover, remove the 7 nuts from the lower edge and remove the 6 bolts from inside the upper perimeter of the bumper.

Fig. Fig. 5: Rear bumper components - 1989-92 Prizm

6. Inspect the reinforcing bar closely for any sign of twisting, crushing or deformation. Check the mounting bars for straightness. Do not attempt to
straighten any bent metal components; they must be replaced.
7. Reassemble the fascia and absorber to the bar and tighten the nuts and bolts.
8. With a helper, place the bumper assembly on the supports and position it to the body of the car.
9. Install the mounting bolts snug but not tight.
10. Check the bumper alignment in relation to the bodywork. Seams should be even all the way across the car and the bumper should be at the same
 height on both sides. Reposition the bumper as necessary and tighten the mounting bolts.
11. Install the nuts holding the mounting posts to the bodywork.
12. Install the 2 screws at each wheelwell.

1993 PRIZM
See Figure 6

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Open the deck lid. Remove the three plastic retaining clips along the top of the rear bumper fascia.
3. Remove the two bolts and the right-side rear wheelhousing.
4. Remove 1 rear bumper fascia support bolt from each side of the rear bumper fascia.
5. Disconnect the two bolts from the bottom of the rear bumper fascia.
6. Remove the two screws from the bottom of the rear bumper fascia.
7. Remove 1 nut from each rear combination lamp assembly (accessible from inside the luggage compartment.
8. Remove the two bolts from each rear combination lamp assembly and remove the lamp assemblies from the vehicle.
9. Remove 1 bolt from each side of the rear bumper fascia. Pull the rear bumper fascia rearward, disconnect license plate lamp bulb sockets and
remove fascia from the vehicle.
10. Remove 1 plastic clip from each rear bumper energy absorber and energy absorbers from the rear bumper impact bar.
11. Remove the 4 nuts from the rear bumper impact bar and remove the impact bar from the vehicle.

To install:

12. Connect the rear bumper impact bar to the vehicle; secure with 4 nuts. Tighten the rear bumper impact bar nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
13. Connect the rear bumper energy absorbers to the rear bumper impact bar; secure each with 1 plastic clip.
14. Connect the rear bumper fascia to the vehicle, connecting the license plate lamp bulb sockets.
15. Connect 1 bolt to each side of the rear bumper fascia. Tighten the rear bumper fascia bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
16. Connect the rear combination lamp assemblies to the vehicle; secure each with two bolts and 1 nut. Tighten the rear combination lamp assembly
bolts and nuts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
17. Connect the two screws to the bottom of the rear bumper fascia.
18. Connect two bolts to the bottom of the rear bumper fascia. Tighten the rear bumper fascia bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
19. Connect 1 rear bumper fascia support bolt to each side of the rear bumper fascia. Tighten the rear bumper fascia support bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20
Nm).
20. Install the right-side rear wheelhousing to the vehicle; secure with two bolts. Tighten the right-side rear wheelhousing to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
21. Connect the three plastic retaining clips along the top of the rear bumper fascia. Close the deck lid.
22. Connect the negative (-) battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 6: Rear bumper components - 1993 Prizm

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 GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Doors
Print

WARNING
The doors are heavier than they appear. Support the door from the bottom and use a helper to support the door during removal and installation.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Doors
NOVA
See Figure 1

1. Remove the door check pin.

2. Remove the rear view mirror assembly as follows:

A. Remove the cover to expose the screw.

B. Remove the screw and lift off the mirror assembly.

3. If equipped with power door locks, remove the door trim panel and disconnect the lock wiring harness.
4. Check for any other wiring (speakers, courtesy lights, etc.) running between the door and the body.
5. Carefully outline the hinge location on the door.
6. Support the door and remove the hinge-to-door bolts.

Fig. Fig. 1: On Novas remove the hinge to door bolts

7. Lift the door away from the body. Place the door on cloths or an old blanket to protect the paint from scuffing.
8. Support the door and install the hinge bolts snugly.
9. Once the bolts are snug, move the door on the hinge bolts until the hinge aligns with the marks made during removal.
10. Support the door in its aligned position and tighten the hinge-to-door bolts.
11. Connect any wiring which was disconnected during removal.
12. Install the mirror assembly.
13. Install the door check pin.
14. Align the door.

PRIZM

1. Remove the pin from the door check arm.

2. Disconnect any wiring running between the door and body. The door pad may require removal to gain access to connectors.
3. Inside the front wheel well, remove the screws holding the rear portion of the wheelhousing cover and remove the cover. This gives access to the
inside rear of the front fender.
4. With the door supported from the bottom and held by a helper, remove the 12mm hinge-to-body bolts.

Unless the hinge is to be replaced, do not loosen the hinge-to-door bolts.

5. Lift the door away from the body. Place the door on cloths or an old blanket to protect the paint from scuffing.
 6. To reinstall, support the door in place and install the hinge bolts. Do not final-tighten any bolt until all are in place and snug.
7. Connect any wiring which was disconnected during removal.
8. Install the door check pin.
9. Install the wheelwell liner and install its screws.

Rear Doors
The rear doors on both Nova and Prizm are removed in approximately the same manner as the respective front door. On Novas, the hinge is disconnected
from the door; on Prizms, the hinge is disconnected from the body. Don't forget to disconnect any wiring running from the door before removal.

ADJUSTMENT/ALIGNMENT
See Figures 2 and 3

When checking for door alignment, look carefully at each seam between the door and body. The gap should be constant and even all the way around the
door. Pay particular attention to the door seams at the corners farthest from the hinges; this is the area where errors will be most evident. Additionally,
the door should pull against the weatherstrip when latched to seal out wind and water. The contact should be even all the way around and the stripping
should be about half compressed.

The position of the door can be adjusted in 3 dimensions: fore and aft, up and down, in and out. The primary adjusting points are the door-to-hinge bolts.
While the hinge is firmly mounted on the body, the door bolts may be loosened and the door repositioned. Once in the correct alignment, tighten the
hinge bolts.

Fig. Fig. 2: Rear door adjustment

As explained above, the primary door adjustments are carried out at the hinge bolts at the forward end of each door. Further adjustment for closed
position and for smoothness of latching may be made at the latch plate or striker. This piece is located at the rear edge of the door and is attached to the
bodywork of the car; it is the piece the door engages when closed.

Although the striker or latch plate may differ on various models or from front to rear, the procedure for adjusting is the same:

1. Loosen the large cross-point screw(s) holding the striker. Know in advance that these bolts will be very tight; an impact screwdriver is a very handy
tool for this job-make sure you use the correct size bit.
2. With the bolts just loose enough to allow the striker to move if necessary, hold the outer door handle in the released position and close the door.
The striker will move into the correct location to match the doorlatch. Open the door and tighten the mounting bolts. The striker may be adjusted
towards or away from the center of the car, thereby pulling the door tighter to the body if needed.

Do not attempt to correct height variations (sag) by adjusting the striker.

3. After the striker bolts have been tightened, open and close the door several times. Observe the motion of the door as it engages the striker; it
should continue its straight-in motion and not deflect up or down as it hits the striker.
 Fig. Fig. 3: One method of adjusting the striker after the bolts are loosened

Check the feel of the latch during opening and closing. It must be smooth and linear, without any trace of grinding or binding during engagement and
release.

It may be necessary to repeat the striker adjustment procedure several times (and possibly adjust the hinges) before the correct door-to-body match is
produced.

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Fenders
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1989-92

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the 11 bolts and remove the wheelhousing.
3. Remove the 3 retaining bolts from the rocker panel forward of the front door.
4. Remove the 1 front retaining bolt from the front door jam.
5. Remove the 2 bumper fascia retaining bolts from the front of the wheelwell.
6. Remove the 1 retaining screw and pull the parking lamp forward, disengaging the retainer clip.
7. Remove the 4 bolts from the parking lamp assembly, securing the fender to the radiator support.
8. Remove the 4 upper fender retaining bolts from inside of the engine compartment and remove the fender from the vehicle.

To install:

9. Install the fender to the vehicle and from inside of the engine compartment install the 4 upper fender retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs.
(20 Nm).
10. Install the 4 bolts to the parking lamp assembly, securing the fender to the radiator support.
11. Pull the parking lamp forward, engaging the retainer clip and the 1 retaining screw.
12. Install the 2 bumper fascia retaining bolts to the front of the wheelwell.
13. Install the 1 front retaining bolt to the front door jam.
14. Install the 3 retaining bolts to the rocker panel forward of the front door and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
15. Install the wheelhousing and tighten 11 retaining bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
16. Connect the negative battery cable.

1993
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the 10 bolts and 2 plastic clips and remove the wheelhousing.
3. Remove the 1 retaining screw and the side marker lamp assembly from the vehicle, disconnecting the bulb socket.
4. Remove the 1 retaining bolt and 2 screws from the headlamp assembly. Unclip the headlamp assembly and remove, disconnecting the headlamp
bulb from the housing.
5. Remove the front bumper fascia.
6. Remove the 1 bolt securing the fender to the rocker panel.
7. Remove the 1 bolt securing the fender to the front door jamb.
8. Remove the 3 mounting bolts along the top of the front fender.
9. Remove the 1 mounting bolt located in the in the headlamp cavity.
 10. Remove the 2 nuts securing the front fender to the front end support panel and remove the fender from the vehicle.

To install:

11. Secure the front fender to the front end support panel and with the 2 nuts and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
12. Install the 1 mounting bolt located in the in the headlamp cavity and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
13. Install the 3 mounting bolts along the top of the front fender and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
14. Install the 1 bolt securing the fender to the front door jamb and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
15. Install the 1 bolt securing the fender to the rocker panel and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
16. Install the front bumper fascia.
17. Connect the headlamp bulb to the housing and clip the headlamp assembly into place. Install the 1 retaining bolt and 2 screws to the headlamp
assembly and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
18. Connect the bulb socket then install the 1 retaining screw and the side marker lamp assembly to the vehicle.
19. Install the 10 bolts and 2 plastic clips to retain the wheelhousing.
20. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine splash shields and wheelhousings - 1993

Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the front fender bolt from the rocker panel - 1993
 Fig. Fig. 3: Removing the front fender top bolts - 1993

Back to Top

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Grille
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1. Remove the screws retaining the grille to the vehicle.

2. Unclip and remove the grille from the vehicle.
3. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Back to Top

GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Hatch or Trunk Lid

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

In all cases the hatch or trunk lid is removed by separating the lid from the hinge. Certain rules must be observed:

1. Two people are absolutely required for safe and efficient removal. Some components are heavy and/or bulky. Damage or injury may result from
improper removal.
2. Although the lid may be supported by springs or struts, always install a prop to support the lid.
3. On hatchbacks, the support (gas strut) must be disconnected from the lid before removal. The hatch is heavy; make sure an assistant supports it
before removing the strut.
4. Trunk lid hinges are supported by 2 torsion rods (spring rods) running between the hinges. These rods SHOULD NOT BE DISCONNECTED during
removal of the lid.
 5. Outline the position of the hinge with pencil or marker. Pad or cover the surrounding area so that the paint is not damaged during removal.
6. Check carefully for any wiring harnesses or hoses running from the body to the lid and disconnect them before removal.
7. Make sure that both ends of the lid are well supported before removing the final bolt. The lid may slip and cause damage.
8. Place the lid on cloths or a padded surface to prevent scuffing. Do not stand a hatchback lid on edge and do not allow it to rest on the glass.
9. When reinstalling, position the lid to the car and install the bolts snug but not tight. Move the lid until the matchmarks made during removal align.
10. Tighten the mounting bolts.
11. If reinstalling a hatchback lid, connect the strut to the lid.
12. Connect the wiring and hoses as necessary.
13. Align the lid with the body.

Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the hatchback support strut

Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the hatchback lid-to-hinge bolts

ALIGNMENT
See Figures 3, 4 and 5

With the trunk lid or hatchback down and latched, check the lid-to-body gap all the way around. It should be even in width and the lid should sit flush to
the other body panels. Check the corners farthest from the hinges; this is where any errors will be most visible.

If adjustment is necessary, loosen the lid-to-hinge bolts and reposition the lid. Tighten the bolts and recheck alignment. If vertical adjustment is required,
shims or washers must be added or removed between the lid and the hinge to raise or lower the lid.
 Fig. Fig. 3: Loosen the hinge bolts to adjust the trunk lid

The lid striker is adjustable. Loosen the nuts or bolts just enough to allow motion in the striker. Close the lid and let the latch move the striker into a
matching position. Open the lid and tighten the striker. Double check the striker position by opening and closing the lid a few times. Chances are good
that the striker adjustment will not come out right the first time. Continue adjusting it for the best feel when closing (no drag or grinding) and ease of
release. The latch should hold to the striker without binding; there should be almost no tension on the key when used to release the lid.

Fig. Fig. 4: Adjusting the hatchback striker

 Fig. Fig. 5: Adjusting the trunk lid striker

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Hood
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

It is advisable to use two people while removing the hood from the vehicle. The hood is lightweight metal and can be easily damaged by twisting or
dropping it.

1. Open the hood and support with the prop rod.

2. Mark the hinge location on the hood.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer lines running to the hood. Disconnect the under-hood light if so equipped.
4. Remove the bolts attaching the hood to the hood hinges.
5. Remove the hood assembly, lifting it off the hood prop.
6. Reinstall the hood by placing it in position and installing the hinge bolts. Tighten the bolts snug but not tight. Move the hood until the matchmarks
made during removal align with the hinges.
7. Check the hood to fender alignment and adjust the hood position as needed. When the hood is properly positioned, tighten the hinge bolts.
8. Reconnect the washer lines and any wiring which was disconnected.
9. Check the hood latch operation and adjust as necessary. The closed height of the hood is adjusted by turning the rubber stoppers to raise or lower
them.
 Fig. Fig. 1: Hood removal

Fig. Fig. 2: Front hood height adjustment

Fig. Fig. 3: Rear hood height adjustment

10. When properly aligned, the closed hood has even seams on each side and sits at the same height as the fenders.

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 GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Mirrors
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

See Figures 1 and 2

1. Remove the screw holding the remote control knob to the shaft. The screw may be concealed under a cap which can be popped off with a small
tool.
2. Use a flat-bladed tool to carefully pry off the triangular plastic cover. Don't damage the plastic and don't break the plastic clip underneath.
3. Support the mirror and remove the 3 bolts holding it to the door. Remove the mirror from the car.

To install:

4. Hold the mirror in position and install the 3 bolts. Before tightening the bolts, make certain the mirror is properly seated and mates flush to the
door. The slightest gap will cause wind noise when the car is moving.
5. Install the triangular bezel.
6. Install the remote control knob and its retaining screw.

Fig. Fig. 1: Door mirror components - 1985-92

Fig. Fig. 2: Door mirror trim cover - 1993

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GM Prizm/Nova 1985-1993 Repair Guide

Sunroof Panel
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Print

1989-92
See Figure 1

1. Remove the sun roof headlining, pull off of front clips and slide rearward.
2. Remove the front and rear shoe nuts.
3. Remove the sun roof panel.

To install:

4. Install the sun roof to the vehicle.

5. Install the front and rear shoes and nuts.
6. Install the sun roof headlining.

Fig. Fig. 1: Sunroof panel removal - 1989-92 Prizm

1993
See Figure 2

1. Remove the headlining from the vehicle. Refer to Headliner later in this section. Unclip the power sunroof interior trim from the power sunroof
panel, slide rearward and remove from the vehicle.

Note the location and number of shims on either side of the power sunroof panel before removal.

2. Remove the 6 bolts and the power sunroof panel from the vehicle.

To install:

3. Install the power sunroof panel to the vehicle; secure with 6 bolts, but do not tighten fully.
4. Install the shims to the power sunroof panel. Adjust the power sunroof panel. Slide the power sunroof interior trim into position, making sure that
the 2 guide pins slide into the interior trim brackets. Clip the power sunroof interior trim onto the power sunroof panel.
5. Install the headlining to the vehicle. Refer to Headliner later in this section.
Fig. Fig. 2: Sunroof panel removal - 1993 Prizm

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