Chapter 6: Finishes for enhancing special character-Functional Finishes

(Fireproof, Waterproof, mildew proof)

Functional finishes are those which improve the performance properties of the fabric such as
durability, strength, etc. Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a
particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one.

Following are some of the commonly used special purpose or functional finishes
Special Purpose or Functional Finishes
Fabric finish Example
Finishes that add to durability • Abrasion resistant finish
• Antislip finish

• Finishes that provide added comfort • Absorbent finish

• Water-proof finish

• Finishes that provide safety • Flame retardant finish

• Finishes that make care easier • Crease-resistant finish

• Durable press/ wash and wear finish
• Stain and spot resistant finish

• Finishes that provide environmental • Fume fade resistant finish

resistance

• Finishes that provide biological resistance • Moth-resistant finish

• Mildew-resistant finish
• Perspiration resistant finish
Waterproof finish
“Waterproofing is nothing but preventing the passage of both air and water through a fabric.” The
water repellency of textile fabrics may be broadly classified into two types, waterproof and water
resistant. Often, the word ‘rain’ or ‘shower’ is used commercially instead of ‘water’ (e.g., shower-
resistant, rainproof, etc.).
PURPOSE OF WATER PROOFING:
For certain uses such as Tarpaulin, Umbrella cloth, Rain coat fabrics etc., it is required to give this type
of finish as these type of fabrics are generally used against the air and water in the normal life. So they
should have some property to prevent both air and water passing through them.
This finish makes the wearer feel uneasy and uncomfortable as the air circulation is not there.
For a fabric to be truly waterproof, it must be completely sealed with a substance that is insoluble in
water. The familiar rubber coated garb of police officer and fire fighters is a good example. Modern
water proofing materials include vinyl resins, which do not oxidize and crack as readily as rubber.
Synthetic rubbers are also more durable to outside influences than natural rubber. Today’s waterproof
fabrics are mostly used to protect merchandise in transit. However these materials close the pore of
the fabric and do not permit it to breathe and therefore are incompatible to wear. This finish is
chemical in nature.
Fabrics for waterproofing by application of coating materials must generally be prepared in a similar
manner as for water repellent finishing.
PRINCIPLE OF WATER PROOFING:
A film on the surface of the fabric should be formed for the prevention of air and water. When a
uniform coating of suitable substances such as rubber is produced on the surface of a fabric, the
interstices between the warp and weft yarns are blocked by the continuous film or substance and both
water and air not pass through the treated fabrics. It is a chemical and property giving finish.
REQUIREMENTS:
 The fabric should not become unnecessarily stiff and the fabric should have soil release or soil
repellent property.
 The finish should not alter the fastness properties or dyed material, feel, strength etc. of the
fabric.
METHOD:
By two methods it can be carried out:
1. Methods by which hydrophobic substances are deposited on the cloth.
2. Methods by which the fabric itself becomes hydrophobic.
CHEMICALS USED:
1. Vulcanized natural rubber.
2. Oxidised oils of varnishes.
3. Polyvinyl chloro acetate.
4. Polyvinylidine chloride.
5. Cellulose acetate.
6. Cupprammonium hydroxide solution.
Process:
A. The simplest method of water proofing is the coating of fabric with rubber as a thin film.
Advantage: No cracks or brittleness.
Disadvantage:
 Unwanted stiffness and harshness.
 Fabric becomes harsh and brittle.
B. The application of natural oil will also produce this finish.
Advantage: No cracks or brittleness.
Disadvantage: It is not permanent
C. Coating of water impermeable substances like pitch, asphalt and molten waxes produce
water proofing.
Advantage: It will give excellent proofing.
Disadvantage: Many desirable properties of the fabric will be destroyed.

D. Using synthetic resins we can produce this finish.

Example: Polyvinyl chloro acetate, Cellulose acetate, Polyvinylidine chloride

E. Water proofing with wax emulsion.

 It can be applied on cotton, linen, wool, silk fabrics.
 Aluminium acetate is used along with the wax emulsion.
There are two steps involved in producing this finish.
STEP1:
 Wax emulsion: 1-3 kg
 Water: 50 litres
 Pad the material with wax emulsion solution.
STEP2:
 In wet condition,
 Aluminium acetate: 1- 3 kg (12˚ Tw)
 Water: 50 litres
 Impregnate the fabric and squeeze thoroughly.
 Then dry the fabric in a stenter or on a drying range at 110˚ to 120˚C

Microporous waterproof Finish: This is the latest invention in water-proofing. A microporous film is
applied to the back of fabric. Although the film appears to be solid, it has millions of tiny cells called
‘Micropores’. These cells are too small to permit rain to penetrate, but they do allow passage of air.
This finish is used for rainwear and outerwear fabrics.

Flame-retardant finish
A fabric can be considered flame resistant if it does not burn or does not continue to burn when
subjected to a flame or heat source, with or without removal of the source. A chemical applied to a
fabric to impart flame resistance is called a flame retardant. Different factors affecting flammability of
textiles include type of fiber, yarn structure, fabric structure, and any chemicals / coatings applied on
the fabric. Three necessary components for a fire are fuel, heat and oxygen. Flame retardant finishes
improve flame resistance by masking or removing any one or more components that are required for
burning.
Certain textiles are required to be fireproof where the risk of fire is involved or when statutory
obligations demand them to be so. It is often used for uniforms of fire fighters, for workers in
ammunition factories, coal mines. This finish has large application in defence organization.
There are two systems to make fabrics flame resistant. The first is to use selective
fibres which have characteristic flame resistant properties. The second is by the use of flame
resistant finishes.
All of the many types of flame retardant finishes now available suffer from at least one of the following
shortcomings:
(a) they cause stiffening and loss of fabric drapability;
(b) they result in significant strength loss in fabric;
(c) they are easily removed in laundering (nondurable); and
(d) They become ineffective when laundered in household bleach, with soaps or with water softeners.
Some chemical flame retardants may be durable even after more than 50 laundering cycles while
others may be non-durable and washed away after single laundering.

Flame Retardants
Flame retardants (FR) are chemicals which are added to combustible materials to render them
resistant to fire. They are designed to minimize the risk of fire in case of contact with a small heat
source such as cigarette, candle or an electrical fault. If the material is ignited, the flame retardant will
slow down combustion and prevent fire from spreading to other items.
Several types of compounds and polymers are used as FR for textile materials, including inorganic
acids, acid salts and hydrates, organophosphorous and organobromine compounds, antimony
salts/halogen systems etc.
Mechanism of action:
Combustion means that flammable textile products are decomposed by the heat of the ignition source,
gasified, and mixed with oxygen in the air to cause a violent oxidation reaction.
The reaction heat generated by this oxidation reaction decomposes and gasifies the subsequent fiber,
and combustion is repeated. In order to suppress combustion, it is effective to make the textile flame
retardant by the method shown in the following 1 to 5 and to prevent the progress of this cycle.
1. Control of heat transfer: Coating with inorganic compound (borax, thermal insulation layer, etc.)
2. Gas dilution or addition of non-combustible gas: Add non-combustible gas to mixed gas and
suppress combustion (halogen compound)
3. Control of solid phase decomposition rate: Lower the melting point of the fiber and increase the
endothermic capacity of the surface
4. Dehydration reaction: Acceleration of carbonization by dehydration reaction (ammonium sulphate,
phosphorus compound)
5. Radical termination: Traps radicals in combustion reactions (halogen compounds)

Application of Flame Retardant Finished Fabric:

Flame retardant finishing fabrics are chemically coated fabrics which resist the fire by limiting oxygen
supply. These flame retardant fabrics are used in curtains and drapes for school events and in
important social gatherings. Flame retardant fabrics are used in a variety of applications like industrial
work wear, uniforms for fire fighters, air force pilots, tent and parachute fabric, professional motor
racing apparel etc to protect the wearer against fires, and electrical arcs etc.
Mildew-proof finish
Mildew is form of fungus. Mildew is a surface fungus that can easily be identified as a patch of gray or
even white fungus that is lying on the surface of a moist area.
A mildew resistant finish is a chemical applied to a fabric to prevent growth of mildew and mold. This
finish is applied to cotton, rayon and linen and protects the fabric from damage caused by mildew and
fungi. Starched cotton fabrics and damp fabrics are more susceptible to the mildew damage. Molds
will grow wherever there is available foodstuff and moist, humid conditions. Such growth can affect
cotton, linen, rayon, silk, wool, leather, paper.
Cellulose fibers are particularly susceptible to mildew. Silk and wool are also susceptible, but to a lesser
extent. Such untreated fabrics will become stained, malodorous and eventually deteriorated by the
fungus if allowed to remain in a moist condition for a period of time.
Synthetic fibers are resistant to mildew and mold but if the fabric is soiled, some may grow on the
soiled areas.
Shower curtains or other fabrics may be mildew proofed at home by soaking the material in soapy
water, then, without rinsing, dipping it into a solution of boric acid and carbolic acid, which prevents
rapid growth of the mildew fungus. The most effective mildew proofing agent is 0.05 per cent
solution of phenyl mercuric acetate in water.
Mildew-resistant finishing method of silk fabric
The method comprises steps as follows:
water is added to a finishing agent, an aqueous solution is prepared, then the aqueous solution is
sprayed on the surface of the fabric with a high-pressure spraying technology, and then the fabric is
dried, wherein the finishing agent is prepared from components in parts by weight as follows:
40-48 parts of deionised water,
3-10 parts of ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate,
3-6 parts of sodium fluosilicate, 3-6 parts of chitosan,
15-20 parts of 2-methyl-4-isothiazoline-3-ketone,
11-14 parts of garlic juice,
4-12 parts of barium sulfate,
2-6 parts of sodium xylene sulfonate,
4-8 parts of methyl cyclosiloxane,
2-9 parts of polyvinyl alcohol,
1-7 parts of calcium chloride and
5-10 parts of ammonium polyphosphate.
The mildew-resistant finishing method of the silk fabric is safe and effective, and the silk fabric finished
with the method is good in mildew resistance, high in washability and safe and non-irritating after
being contacted with skin surface for a long time and touches soft.