ES313 Geomorphology and Earth Surface Processes

Ocean and Coastal

Systems

Part 3: Coastal Environments

Coastal
Environment
 • Waves develop via friction of wind on water.
• Gentle wind creates small waves; gales make giant waves.
Waves • Waves translate the uppermost part of the water.
• Wave height, length, and period depend on wind speed, wind duration, and
distance of travel (fetch).
Waves
Waves
 • Waves that crash onto the beach are called breakers.
Waves • Wave energy is dissipated by turbulence.
• This creates frothy white water in the surf zone.
• A surge of water (swash) rushes up the beach face.
• Gravity pulls the backwash down the slope of the beach.
 Wave Refraction

• On an irregular shoreline, water depth varies.

• As waves drag on bottom, they are forced to
bend.
• This process, wave refraction, has
consequences.
• Wave attack is concentrated against
headlands.
• Wave attack is dissipated in embayment.
• This process tends to straighten an
irregular shore.
 Storm Surges and Tsunami
Storm Surges
• Generated by low atmospheric pressure and high wind speed
• Drop of 100 Pa (1mb) in atmospheric pressure => rise of 1 cm of sea
water (inverted barometer effect)
• Hurricane/typhoons – central atmospheric pressure < 100 mb below
normal => ~1m rise of sea water
• Frequent in Bay of Bengal; more destruction in low lying areas
Tsunami
• Generated by earthquakes => displacement of ocean floor, volcanic
eruptions, catastrophic submarine mass movement
• Displacement of a large mass of water at great depth
• Initially very long and high velocity waves (related to ocean depth)
• Velocity reduces and height increases as they near shore (~15 m);
• Very destructive; can travel >600 km/hr over water 3000 meters deep Indian Ocean Tsunami 2004
 High Tide
Low Tide Tidal Range
Intertidal zone

• Sea level rises and falls twice daily.

• High tide – Maximum tidal flooding.
Tides • Low tide – Maximum tidal withdrawal.
• Tidal range – The range between high and low tides.
• The intertidal zone lies between tides.
 Tides

• Tides are caused by a tide-generating force, due to...

• The gravitational pull of the Moon and the Sun.
• Centrifugal forces from rotation of the Earth,
Moon, and Sun.
• The orbiting moon creates the strongest tidal effects.
• The sublunar bulge follows the Moon’s orbit.
• A smaller bulge occurs on the opposite side of
Earth.
• The bulges make high tides; low tides between
bulges.
 Tides
• Semi-diurnal - two lows and two highs in 24 hr
(normal, most coasts)
• Diurnal tides – only one high and low tide
(Antarctica)
• Mixed tide – highs and lows of each 24 h period
are of different magnitude (Pacific coasts)
• Lunar and solar tidal effects interact.
• Positive alignment yields enhanced “spring”
tides; every 17-75 days when sun and moon are
aligned.
• Negative alignment results in dampened “neap”
tides; tides are less high and low than usual.
 Tides
The magnitude and timing of tides
vary a great deal.

This reflects a complex interplay of

many factors.
• Relative orientation of the Sun and Moon.
• The orbital properties of the Moon.
• Basin geometry.
• Axial tilt.
• Air pressure.
 Tidal range and
geomorphic work
• Tidal range
• Microtidal - < 2m, enclosed basin
• Mesotidal - 2 to 4 m
• Macrotidal - > 4m, shallow sea
• Intertidal zone - area between the high and low tide
• Tidal type
• determines interval between tides and therefore time
available for the shore to dry after high tide- important for
shore weathering and biological activity
• affects the intensity of tidal currents
• Tidal range
• controls the vertical distance over which waves and currents
are effective along the shoreline
• determines the extent of intertidal zone
Currents
• Both wave and tide action generate currents
• More important with respect to sediment transport than
with respect to erosion
• Associated with tides
• Macrotidal regime – confined to enclosed sections
• Meso/microtidal regime – fast tidal currents,
confined to constrictions
• Associated with wave action
• Rip currents – move perpendicular to the shoreline
• Longshore current – move parallel to the shoreline
Longshore
Currents

• Sediment is transported along the shore.

• Oblique waves push sediment sideways up the beach.
• Gravity then pulls this sediment straight downslope.
• This zig-zag pattern moves sediment in one direction.
Rip Currents

• Rip currents develop when wave

flow is perpendicular.
• Water piles up on the beach
and must return seaward.
• A rip current develops
perpendicular to the
beach.
• Rip currents are often
strong; people drown
fighting them.
• Rip currents dissipate away
from the surf zone.
Rip Currents
 Sources of sediment
Coastal landforms e.g. cliffs & beaches
Sediment l
l Land area inland from the littoral zone through mass
movement movement, & rivers
l Offshore zone & beyond through storms & seismic
waves, sea level fluctuations

Longshore drift Beach Drift

Beach Drift