BASIC SEWING STITCHES

1.1 What are stitches?

Stitches refers to a single turn or loop of thread or yarn. It is also defined as one
complete movement of a threaded needle through a fabric or material such as to
leave behind it a single loop or portion of thread. The process of making stitches is
called stitching. Stitching can be made either by machine or hand. Most hand
stitching is used for temporary stitching, for awkward places of a garment or
decorative work.
1.2 What are the general rules for working stitches.
When working stitches, the following general rules should be followed:
1) choose the correct stitch for the work to be carried out.
2) use the correct size of needle and the right type of thread for the material.
3) fasten on and off securely.
4) wear a thimble on the middle finger-tip from being rubbed sore with pushing
the needle through the material.
5) work one stitch at a time.
6) never use a knot for fastening on stitches. Knots may come undone, they can
tear fine materials, and they cause tiny lumps in seams or hems when the
material is pressed.
7) when threading the needle ready for sewing, it should be threaded with the
end left on the reel and this end used as the shorter of the two lengths of
thread. In this way the thread will be used in the same direction as that in
which it has been twisted, and will be less likely to knot or fray.

1.3 Classification of stitches

Stitches are classified into two main groups namely: temporary and permanent
stitches. Examples of temporary stitches include: even tacking, uneven tacking, long
and short tacking and tailor’s tacking. Permanent stitches fall in the following
categories: joining (running, backstitch, oversewing, machining), neatening
(hemming, loop stitch, buttonholing, herringboning, overcasting, machining) and
decorative (chain stitch, satin stitch, stem stitch, French knots etc.)

1.4 Uses of temporary stitches

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Temporary stitches are stitches used to hold parts of the garment or pieces of fabric
together before permanent stitches are made. They are sewn temporarily. As the
name suggests, these stitches are removed as soon as they have served their purpose.
Therefore, a soft, cheap, white tacking cotton is usually used, which is much less
strong than sewing cotton and will break easily if it is caught into stitching. The
following are the uses of temporary stitches:
 holding seams and hems in position for stitching.
 guiding a straight permanent stitching line.
 Holding/ keeping together two edges of fabric before making a permanent
stitch.
 Transferring pattern markings from paper to fabric.

1.5 Procedure for making different temporary stitches.

Different temporary stitches are made differently though they serve the same
purposes.
Procedure:
 Thread the needle. Use a single thread (a contrasting-coloured thread is
advisable for easy visibility)
 Hold a piece of fabric in your hand and a sewing needle with thread in the
other hand.
 Begin with a double stitch and sew straight to end of fabric (fastening on).
 Finish a double stitch (fastening off).
 Remove the stitch immediately after working out a permanent stitch.
Note: do not pull the thread tightly or the fabric will pucker (form pockets)

1) Even tacking and long-and-short tacking

They are used for holding seams and hems in position for stitching. Tacking
should be worked:
a) On hems: near enough to the fold to hold both turnings.
b) On seams: in such a position that stitching may be worked immediately
below it.

Even tacking

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 2) Long-and-short tacking
Make long and short stitches as shown in the illustration.

Worked more quickly than even tacking and particularly useful for heavier
materials which it holds more firmly.
3) Tailor’s tacking
Used for marking positions of notches, darts and other important details shown
on printed and perforated paper patterns. When using patterns with considerable
number of dots or perforations (for seam lines, darts, tucks and button-holes on a
blouse for example), it is a good idea to work each set of perforations in a
different colour of thread to avoid confusion. So, tailor’s tacking is used to
transfer pattern markings from the pattern paper to the fabric
 Procedure for working tailor’s tacking
 Use a long double thread
 Fasten on
 Make a small stitch through the pattern and two layers of the fabric
 Repeat the stitching leaving a loops
 Leave a ‘tail’ and cut off the thread
 Cut the loops
 Remove the paper pattern
 Separate the two layers of fabric and the threads between them, leaving
a thread mark on both layers

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 2. Permanent stitches
2.1 What are permanent stitches?
Permanent stitches are those that are used to join two or more pieces of fabric
together firmly and permanently.

2.2 What are the general rules for working permanent stitches?
When working on permanent stitches follow the following general rules:
 Choose the correct stitch for the work to be carried out.
 Use the correct size of needle and the right type of thread for the material.
 Fasten on and of securely.
 Work one stitch at a time.
 Never use the knot for fastening on as they may tear fine materials and cause
tiny lumps in seams and hems when the material is pressed.

2.3 Types of permanent stitches.

There are three kinds of permanent stitches. Firstly, joining stitches and examples
include: running, backstitch, oversewing, machining. Secondly, neatening stitches
such as hemming, loop stitch, buttonholing, herringboning, overcasting, machining.
Finally, decorative stitches which include: chain stitch, satin stitch, stem stitch,
French knots etc.

A. Joining stitches
Joining stitches are used for joining two or more separate pieces of material together.
The thread used should match the type of material as far as possible eg. Cotton on
cotton. Woolen and other heavy materials may be stitched with silk or drima.
1) Running stitch
This stitch is used to join two single surfaces; neaten edges of open seams and gather
fullness of material into a shorter length. It is worked from right to left, one stitch at
a time.
Procedure
 Take two pieces of fabric and hold them together.
 Begin with a double backstitch.

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  Continue sewing stitches that are equal to the space and length.
 Finish off with a double backstitch.

2) Back stitch
The stitch is very strong. It is used to join two pieces of material, sewing on tapes,
bottoms and pockets. It is worked from right to left. If one side of the stitch will be
more easily visible than the other, it should be worked from the visible side. On the
wrong side the stitch looks like stem stick; on the right side, the stitch looks like
running stitch.
Procedure
 Take two pieces of fabric and hold them together.
 Begin by making a double stitch (fasten on).
 End with a double stitch (fasten off).

3) Oversewing
It is used to join two folded edges or selvedges together. Eg. Ends of deep hems,
attaching tapes; making kinds of patches like appliquѐ, and on stuffed toys. The
stitch is worked from right to left on the right side of fabric. Thread should not be
pulled tightly.
Procedure
 Fold the two edges of the fabric inside.
 Tack the sides together.
 Begin with a double stitch.
 Stitch over the edges of the fabric.
 End with a double stitch.

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 4) Machining
Machine-stitching is used to join parts of the fabric together. Stretch stitch, flexi
stitch, and elastic stitch are all terms for similar stitches.

B. Neatening stitches
3.1 What are the uses of neatening stitches?
Neatening stitches are those that are used for securing hems and turnings. They are
used for preventing raw edges from fraying. Threads matching the materials are
used. Examples of neatening stitches include: hemming, slip or invisible hemming,
loop stitch, buttonhole stitch, herringbone stitch, overcasting stitch. When working
neatening stitches remember that threads used match with the material.
1. Hemming
When making hemming stitches remember to work from right to left with the hem
held over the fingers of the left hand. The rest of the garment should be held towards
you.
Procedure
 Fold first and second facing the wrong side of the material to make a hem.
 Tack to hold the fold in place and insert the needle into the single material
below the fold.
 Bring the needle out a few threads above the fold and a little to the left.
 Notice that the slant of the stitches should be similar to the sides of a ‘V’ and
should appear the same on both sides of the work.
 When ending off, you should work in reverse direction for two or three
stitches forming ‘V’ on both sides of the work.
 Finally, remove the needle out of the hem.

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 2. Slip or invisible hemming
Slip or invisible hemming is not as strong as hemming. This stitch is used only on
lightweight fabrics and is invisible when completed eg. hemming a skirt or a pair of
trousers. It does not make an obvious hemline on the right side.
Procedure
 Turn the bulk of the material down from the hem so that the fold to be stitched
projects three millimetres.
 Hold the fold level with the first finger.
 Bring the needle out just beneath the fold.
 Insert the needle into the single material opposite while picking up only one
or two threads.
 Return the needle to the first position in the fold and slip it through the fold
from right to left.
 Repeat the stitch making sure that the distance between stitches is about three
millimetres to six millimetres

3. Blanket/ Loop stitch

Some people call the loop stitch a blanket stitch. It can be worked on raw edges from
left to right with the edge held towards the worker. It can also be used to neaten raw
edges of seams inside the garments.

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 4. Buttonhole stitch
Buttonhole stitch is another type of neatening stitch. It is worked over raw edges,
usually double, from left to right with the edge held away from the worker.
 Push the needle in from the back of the fabric and pull all the way through
 Rather than bringing the needle right through the front like you would do with
the other stitches, bring the needle through the back of the fabric again
 You’ll have created a loop by pulling the needle through the back of the fabric
twice. Pull the needle right through the loop
 Repeat steps one through three, keeping stitches close to each other.

5. Herringbone stitch
Herringbone stitch is made by working from left to right over a single turning. The
folded edge is held away from the worker. Stitches are made alternatively in double
and single material.
6. Overcasting stitch.
Overcasting stitch is worked on fabric from left to right. It is made on the raw edges
such as the edges of flat seam. It can also be made on edges that cannot be
strengthened with machine stitches.

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 C. Decorative stitches
4.1 What are the uses of decorative stitches?
Decorative stitches are those that are used to make finished garments and articles
look attractive and beautiful. They are used to decorate handkerchief, book bag, tray
cloth etc. Examples of decorative stitches include: cross stitch, chain stitch, satin
stitch, stem stitch, laizy daisy, French knots etc.
4.2 Principles for making decorative stitches
When making decorative stitches, remember the following rules:
 side of the decoration should be as neat as the right side.
 the method of decoration used should be suitable for the material and use of
the textile product.
 elaborate decoration should not be used on poor materials.
 decoration should stand up to laundering in garments that are frequently
washed.
 the wrong must in no way weaken the decorated portion of the garment or
article. When working decorative stitches remember to use the correct design.

1. Cross stitch
The cross stitch.

2. Chain stitch
The chain stitch is used for cutling or filling in a design. Sometimes it can be used
to hold hems in place. Remember, when stitching the thread should not be pulled too
tightly. If done so, it will spoil the shape of the stitch.
Procedure
 Bring the needle out of the line to be stitched and hold the thread to the left of
it under the thumb.

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  Then put the needle back where it has just come out.
 Bring it out a short space further down.
 Pass the thread under the needle from left to right. At this point, draw the
needle through to form the first link of the chain.

3. Stem stitch
Stem stitch should look like a backstitch on the wrong side.
Procedure
 Bring the needle at the same side of the preceding stitch each time.

4. Satin stitch
Satin stitch is used to fill shapes. Satin stitches may be worked with horizontal or
sloping stitches.

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 5. Lazy daisy

6. French knots

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