BASIC_SEWING_STITCHES
BASIC_SEWING_STITCHES
Even tacking
Worked more quickly than even tacking and particularly useful for heavier
materials which it holds more firmly.
3) Tailor’s tacking
Used for marking positions of notches, darts and other important details shown
on printed and perforated paper patterns. When using patterns with considerable
number of dots or perforations (for seam lines, darts, tucks and button-holes on a
blouse for example), it is a good idea to work each set of perforations in a
different colour of thread to avoid confusion. So, tailor’s tacking is used to
transfer pattern markings from the pattern paper to the fabric
Procedure for working tailor’s tacking
Use a long double thread
Fasten on
Make a small stitch through the pattern and two layers of the fabric
Repeat the stitching leaving a loops
Leave a ‘tail’ and cut off the thread
Cut the loops
Remove the paper pattern
Separate the two layers of fabric and the threads between them, leaving
a thread mark on both layers
2.2 What are the general rules for working permanent stitches?
When working on permanent stitches follow the following general rules:
Choose the correct stitch for the work to be carried out.
Use the correct size of needle and the right type of thread for the material.
Fasten on and of securely.
Work one stitch at a time.
Never use the knot for fastening on as they may tear fine materials and cause
tiny lumps in seams and hems when the material is pressed.
A. Joining stitches
Joining stitches are used for joining two or more separate pieces of material together.
The thread used should match the type of material as far as possible eg. Cotton on
cotton. Woolen and other heavy materials may be stitched with silk or drima.
1) Running stitch
This stitch is used to join two single surfaces; neaten edges of open seams and gather
fullness of material into a shorter length. It is worked from right to left, one stitch at
a time.
Procedure
Take two pieces of fabric and hold them together.
Begin with a double backstitch.
2) Back stitch
The stitch is very strong. It is used to join two pieces of material, sewing on tapes,
bottoms and pockets. It is worked from right to left. If one side of the stitch will be
more easily visible than the other, it should be worked from the visible side. On the
wrong side the stitch looks like stem stick; on the right side, the stitch looks like
running stitch.
Procedure
Take two pieces of fabric and hold them together.
Begin by making a double stitch (fasten on).
End with a double stitch (fasten off).
3) Oversewing
It is used to join two folded edges or selvedges together. Eg. Ends of deep hems,
attaching tapes; making kinds of patches like appliquѐ, and on stuffed toys. The
stitch is worked from right to left on the right side of fabric. Thread should not be
pulled tightly.
Procedure
Fold the two edges of the fabric inside.
Tack the sides together.
Begin with a double stitch.
Stitch over the edges of the fabric.
End with a double stitch.
B. Neatening stitches
3.1 What are the uses of neatening stitches?
Neatening stitches are those that are used for securing hems and turnings. They are
used for preventing raw edges from fraying. Threads matching the materials are
used. Examples of neatening stitches include: hemming, slip or invisible hemming,
loop stitch, buttonhole stitch, herringbone stitch, overcasting stitch. When working
neatening stitches remember that threads used match with the material.
1. Hemming
When making hemming stitches remember to work from right to left with the hem
held over the fingers of the left hand. The rest of the garment should be held towards
you.
Procedure
Fold first and second facing the wrong side of the material to make a hem.
Tack to hold the fold in place and insert the needle into the single material
below the fold.
Bring the needle out a few threads above the fold and a little to the left.
Notice that the slant of the stitches should be similar to the sides of a ‘V’ and
should appear the same on both sides of the work.
When ending off, you should work in reverse direction for two or three
stitches forming ‘V’ on both sides of the work.
Finally, remove the needle out of the hem.
5. Herringbone stitch
Herringbone stitch is made by working from left to right over a single turning. The
folded edge is held away from the worker. Stitches are made alternatively in double
and single material.
6. Overcasting stitch.
Overcasting stitch is worked on fabric from left to right. It is made on the raw edges
such as the edges of flat seam. It can also be made on edges that cannot be
strengthened with machine stitches.
1. Cross stitch
The cross stitch.
2. Chain stitch
The chain stitch is used for cutling or filling in a design. Sometimes it can be used
to hold hems in place. Remember, when stitching the thread should not be pulled too
tightly. If done so, it will spoil the shape of the stitch.
Procedure
Bring the needle out of the line to be stitched and hold the thread to the left of
it under the thumb.
3. Stem stitch
Stem stitch should look like a backstitch on the wrong side.
Procedure
Bring the needle at the same side of the preceding stitch each time.
4. Satin stitch
Satin stitch is used to fill shapes. Satin stitches may be worked with horizontal or
sloping stitches.
6. French knots