FEB-MAR

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2020

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A U T H E N T I C I T A L I A N C O O K I N G S I N C E T H E 19 2 0 s

OVER PHILADELPHIA
80
RECIPES
WHERE TO EAT
ITALIAN
A DRINK IN
FLORENCE
A MOLISE
MENU
DISCOVER
NEW
TRADITIONS

TRAVEL
PARMA
VENICE
BORMIO
UMBRIA

RISOTTO MAMMA MIA, CHE BUONO!

W W W. L AC U C I N A I TA L I A N A . C OM
Letter from the Editor

SUNDAYS
WELL SPENT
A
couple Sundays ago my
family and I dined with
friends at a restaurant
outside Milan. It was one
of those bitter-cold, rath-
er gloomy winter days.
When we reached the family-run ristoran-
te-trattoria, it felt so much like someone’s
home that I instinctively, with tradition-
al Italian manners, asked for permission
to enter. The warm, welcoming rooms
wound their way back to the kitchen, each
home to a long table seated with a variety
of parties, large and small. We sat down at

120
our table and spent hours enjoying wonderful food (to be ex-
act: carbonara, cacio e pepe, ragù, and some exquisite pump-
kin malfatti). A dog snoozed on the floor, blissfully enveloped
by all the delightful aromas (it had already been fed). Children
played with their superhero toys, chasing each other around
the high chairs and demolishing everything in their paths.
Meanwhile, our conversation flowed ever more smoothly be-
tween one glass of fine wine and the other, between one deli-
cious course and the next. In the late afternoon we looked each
other in the eye and agreed that this was undoubtedly the best
way to spend a Sunday — eating and drinking in good compa-
ny. There’s joy to be found in a plate of pasta (or any dish, espe-
cially one from a distant land) and a glass of wine when you’re
The Alps
with loved ones with whom you can discuss anything. Wherefore art thou Bormio?

56
Maddalena Fossati Dondero
[email protected] – instagram.com/maddafox

Our Story
Founded in Milan,
La Cucina Italiana
has existed for almost
a century and is now also
(proudly) a .com

T
he idea belonged to Umber-
to Notari and Delia Pavoni, a Above: the first issue of
Milanese couple who loved La Cucina Italiana in the
food. The two turned their home ‘20s and a cover from
kitchen into a newspaper edito- the ‘50s. Below: our
rial office, called their friends — legend- February 2020 issue.
ary authors, chefs and gourmets — and €4
FEBBR AIO
2020

started cooking and creating recipes

DA L 192 9 I L M E N S I L E D I GA S T RO N O M I A C O N L A C U C I N A I N R E DA Z I O N E

(and eating, too, of course). A century POLPETTE

O POLPETTONI?
later, we’re still here. Countless mothers MANGIAMO
E SCIAMO

and fathers, nonne and nonni, have fed

IN VALLE
D’AOSTA

their families thanks to the tips and recipes

shared on our pages.
FORMAGGI
2 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA RICETTE
PER STUPIRE

MARITOZZO UN CLASSICO DELIZIOSO

 contents 2
5
Letter from
the Editor
Contributors

7 Food News
Where to eat and what
what to buy

34
11 Aperitivo
Caramelized onions
12 On Royalty
Kingly Krumiri cookies
13 Melt Their Hearts
Loco for cocoa
14 Eat Your Words 90 Om
Steak sauce Umbria
15 Nuptials 96 Fragrancy
“Cheese-cake” Bottles and bouquets
16 Liaisons 102 Italians in America
When in Venice Francesco Panella
17 Exuberance 106 Morning Glory
Lemon cream tart Italian breakfast
18 Ugly Pretty 112 Family Ties
Ricotta cake The Lunellis
19 Imbibe 116 Award-Worthy Eats
Where to drink Cinema-inspired recipes
20 Modern Classic 120 The Alps
Visiting Parma Bormio
30 Adaptation 129 Newdles
Gluten-free recipes Pasta diversa

88
34 Locavore 136 Heart and Soul
A taste of Molise Philadelphia
38 Through the 144 Just One More Bite
Grapevine Squacquerone
Valpolicella
42 Get Comfy FEB-MAR
IN

2020
TE ED

Bruschetta bliss
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A U T H E N T I C I T A L I A N C O O K I N G S I N C E T H E 19 2 0 s

45 In Season OVER PHILADELPHIA

What we’re cooking now 80
RECIPES
WHERE TO EAT
ITALIAN
A DRINK IN
46 Appetizers A MOLISE
FLORENCE

MENU
50 First Courses DISCOVER
NEW
TRADITIONS
61 Vegetables
64 Entrées TRAVEL
PARMA
72 Eggs VENICE
BORMIO
74 Desserts UMBRIA

RISOTTO MAMMA MIA, CHE BUONO!

78 Italians in America W W W. L AC U C I N A I TA L I A N A . C OM

Giorgio Guidotti
Nettle Risotto with Pecorino
82 Martedì Grasso
Sauce – See page 51
Carnival recipes Photography: Riccardo Lettieri
88 Heritage Styling: Beatrice Prada
Nonna’s kitchen

For more recipes & stories visit www.lacucinaitaliana.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 3
 Chief Executive Officer
ROGER LYNCH

In the USA
Q U A L I T Y I S O U R B U S I N E S S P L A N ANNA WINTOUR, Artistic Director
Vogue, Vanity Fair, Glamour, Self, GQ, GQ Style,
We settle only for the best and create the finest publishing products. That’s why we have La Cucina The New Yorker, Condé Nast Traveler, Allure, AD,
Italiana, which for almost 90 years has been the world’s most authoritative guide to Italian cuisine Bon Appétit, Epicurious, Wired,
and tradition; Vogue, the most influential monthly magazine; and AD, which for over 30 years has Teen Vogue, Ars Technica, Pitchfork, Them, Iris
highlighted the world's most beautiful home. In a word: quality. In two words: Condè Nast International
WOLFGANG BLAU, President
N. 2 - February – March 2020
London HQ, Vogue Business,
Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design
Editor in Chief Britain
MADDALENA FOSSATI DONDERO
Vogue, House & Garden, Tatler, The World of Interiors,
Art Director GQ, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour,
BRENDAN ALLTHORPE Condé Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love, Wired
Senior Editor France
MARIA VITTORIA DALLA CIA Vogue, Vogue Hommes, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections,
Web Editor GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair
SABINA MONTEVERGINE
Italy
Contributing Editor
Vogue, Glamour, AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, Wired,
FIAMMETTA FADDA
La Cucina Italiana, Experienceis
Editors Germany
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Design
Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, AD, Vanity Fair
RITA ORLANDI (Head of Graphic Design), FRANCESCA SAMADEN
Photo Editor Japan
ELENA VILLA Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding, Rumor Me
In-house chef Taiwan
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Styling Mexico and Latin America
BEATRICE PRADA (consultant) Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico, AD Mexico,
Editorial assistant GQ Mexico and Latin America
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Digital Vogue, GQ, Condé Nast Traveller, AD
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ALESSANDRO PIROLLO – [email protected] STEFANIA VIRONE – [email protected] Published under Joint Venture:
Chefs Brazil: Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour
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Contributors China: Vogue, AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style,
CECILIA CARMANA, BETTINA CASANOVA, RICHARD CONTI, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Vogue Me, Vogue Film
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Czech Republic and Slovakia: Vogue, La Cucina Italiana
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Photos Greece: Vogue
AG. GETTY IMAGES, GUIDO BARBAGELATA, GIACOMO BRETZEL, MATTEO CARASSALE,
RICCARDO LETTIERI, DAVIDE LOVATTI, FEDERICO MILETTO, JACOPO SALVI, EVAN SUNG
Hong Kong: Vogue
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Editorial Director LUCA DINI
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Sales & Marketing Advisor ROMANO RUOSI
Riyadh
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Digital & Data Advertising Director MASSIMO MIELE. Digital Sales: GIOVANNI SCIBETTA Manager.
Vogue Man, Vogue Living
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New York: ILARIA ANGHINONI Chairman of the Board of Directors
JONATHAN NEWHOUSE
EDIZIONI CONDÉ NAST S.p.A.
Chief Executive Officer FEDELE USAI
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 Contributors

GIACOMO BRETZEL
BEATRICE PRADA RICCARDO LETTIERI PHOTOGRAPHER
FOOD STYLIST PHOTOGRAPHER & VIDEO MAKER
Focaccia Ligure Mozzarella Cacciucco
Alta Valle d’Aosta in carrozza alla Livornese
Timorasso Tuscany Migliara Anacapri
Panettone Sangiovese Nerello mascarese
Zuppa inglese dal cappuccio
Babbà from Tizzano
Pasticceria
JOELLE NÉDERLANTS
CHEF, LA CUCINA
ITALIANA
SIMONA GALIMBERTI
Pasta con le sarde CHEF
Alberobello Spaghetti alle vongole
Pinot Nero Santa Margherita
Sbrisolona Ligure
Cremes di Gaja
Salame al cioccolato

For this issue, we asked our contributors to share a few of their favorite Italian things:
DISH PL ACE WINE DESSERT

DAVIDE LOVATTI
PHOTOGRAPHER
JACLYN
DEGIORGIO Spaghetti
JOURNALIST al pomodoro piled
with Parmigiano
Spaghetti
all’acciugata Val d’Orcia
The Dolomites Lambrusco
Zidarich Vitovska Panettone
from Pasticceria
Cannoncino Marchesi
FIAMMETTA FADDA
FOOD CRITIC
SARA MAGRO BRENDAN Gnocchi alla romana
JOURNALIST ALLTHORPE Capri
Parmigiana ART DIRECTOR Gewürtztraminer
di melanzane Farinata A cupful of warm
Portofino, Paraggi Bay The Ligurian zabaione
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, D.MARI

in particular Coast
Barolo Barbaresco
Millefoglie Gelato

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 5
Chef Carolina Diaz
Terzo Piano
Chicago, IL

When you spend time artfully crafting your

dishes, you need a pasta that’s artfully crafted.
Bronze cut for a texture that perfectly holds sauces.
 February – March

food news

‘Tis the Season

For better or worse, most foods are available
year-round — even when they’re not in season. It’s no secret
that seasonal fare tastes noticeably more flavorful than
what’s harvested in the off season, but non-seasonal items
lack proper nutrition. To keep your diet aligned with the
season, shop at the farmers market. Not only is seasonality
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

guaranteed, but this ritual also ups the farmers’ bottom line.
The National Farmers Union revealed last year that “farmers
and ranchers receive only 15 cents of every food dollar that
consumers spend,” as opposed to the 100% they receive
from those who buy from them directly.

For more food news visit www.lacucinaitaliana.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 7
Food News

WOMEN M
arch is a powerful month for females
— 31 days dedicated entirely to wom-
en’s history plus International Women’s

WE LOVE
Day, which falls on the eighth. Yet 2020
is a notable year for womankind in
general as it marks the centennial of the ratification of
the19th amendment (the landmark victory that granted
American women the right to vote).
In honor of International Women’s Day — though
we fully support the exaltation of females any day of
Two extraordinary ladies who have helped the year — here’s a look at two bold ladies who add
shape America’s Italian food culture their own exquisite flair to Italian cuisine.

Cathy Whims
CHEF AND OWNER,
NOSTRANA, PORTLAND
Cathy Whims had cooked at the
Italian restaurant Genoa for
20 years — long before Portland
became the noted gastronomic
destination it is today. When a
visit to Italy revealed how genuine
Italian cuisine differed from Genoa’s myself and wasn’t that thrilled with
menu items, Whims had to “relearn the results. And the key, besides
everything,” eventually opening the technique, was that she didn’t
Nostrana in 2005. The six-time believe in adding any egg to the
James Beard nominee studied under dough because the protein in the
Marcella Hazan and still remains egg made them heavier in her mind.
inspired by what she learned under And so I came back from that class
the tutelage of the “godmother of and I was just obsessed with gnocchi
Italian cooking.” and I became a potato gnocchi
One day we did potato gnocchi evangelist. To this day, every
and it just blew my mind. It was Thursday at Nostrana, since we
like, these gnocchi are so light, I’ve opened 14 years ago, we take pasta
never eaten gnocchi this light. I’m off the menu and only have gnocchi,
sure I’d probably tried to make them with four or five different sauces.

Sarah Grueneberg best restaurants and met traditional

CHEF/PARTNER, balsamic producer Andrea Bezzechi
MONTEVERDE RESTAURANT & of Acetaia San Giacomo and
PASTIFICIO, CHICAGO mono-floral honey producer Andrea
A Texas native, Sarah Grueneberg Paternoster of Mieli Thun. Those
honed her talent at chef Tony experiences have influenced my
Mantuano’s Michelin-starred work greatly over the years, serving
Spiaggia in Chicago, working her as points of inspiration when opening
way up to executive chef. The Bravo’s Monteverde four years ago. I like to
Top Chef alum opened Monteverde cook from the heart and I think Italian
Restaurant & Pastificio in 2016 and cuisine perfectly fits my approach
earned a James Beard Award the to ingredients and dishes.
PHOTO JOHN VALLS, GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY

following year. What drew her to

Italian food?
Being from the south, I’ve always
been drawn to history and tradition,
especially when it relates to food.
When I first was introduced to
traditional, authentic Italian cuisine
I instantly fell in love with the stories,
the regionality and culture that goes
into every dish. I wanted to learn
as much as I could. After my first
trip to Italy in 2008, it all clicked. Visit www.lacucinaitaliana.com
I learned from the great Nadia to read more about these ladies
Santini, worked at some of Rome’s and other inspiring chefs.

8 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 5
3 4
1

1. Flour + Water
Pizzeria
SAN FRANCISCO,
CALIFORNIA

THE
At any given time, Thomas
McNaughton has ten pizzas
on offer. The one bearing

UNITED
tomatoes, dollops of burrata,
basil and lemon and chili
oils is exquisite — opt for

STATES
the anchovies add-on. Or, if
you’re grabbing a bite to go,
inquire about the Big Slice,

OF PIZZA
a changing daily special.
flourandwaterpizzeria.com

Here’s a look at five of our

favorite pizzerias in America,
and what to order at each

4. Razza Pizza
Artiginale
2. Pizzeria Bianco JERSEY CITY, NEW JERSEY
PHOENIX, ARIZONA When in NYC, hop on the
At this 33-year-old pizzeria, PATH train to sample Dan
Bronx native Chris Bianco Richer’s delightfully crisp yet
fires up what some of the soft wood-fired crusts, all
most discerning cognoscenti complete with local bounty.
consider to be the country’s Mozzarella from the milk of 5. Frank Pepe’s
best pizza. The Wiseguy, with local water buffalo tops the NEW HAVEN,
wood-roasted onion, house- Bufala pizza, while the Cavolini CONNECTICUT
smoked mozzarella and fennel 3. Pizzeria Locale features fresh mozzarella, Though his pizzeria has been
sausage, is unforgettable. BOULDER, COLORADO Brussels sprouts, shaved onion, a New Haven institution since
pizzeriabianco.com Owners Bobby Stuckey and melted anchovy and garlic. 1925, Frank Pepe didn’t create
Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson razzanj.com his iconic White Clam pizza
fuse the best of Boulder with until the 1960s. The coal-fired,
Naples, firing up pizza in a thin and crispy crust is crowned
custom-made imported oven. with clams, grated cheese,
PHOTO ARCH. LCI, AG. GETTY IMAGES, JULIA VANDENOEVER

Go for the Mais, a dazzling garlic, olive oil and oregano

hodgepodge of prosciutto, — a testament to how coupling
corn, mozzarella, crème fish with cheese really isn’t
fraîche and garlic. a bad idea after all.
localeboulder.com pepespizzeria.com

Cin Cin!
Ca’ del Bosco’s Cuvée Prestige Extra
Brut is a sumptuous Franciacorta made
from chardonnay, pinot bianco and
pinot noir blended with reserve wines
and aged for 25 months sur lies. Sip
this sparkler in honor of a special
occasion...or simply just because.
cadelbosco.com LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 9
Food News

Our (Good) World

La Cucina Italiana USA
is dedicated to those who love Italy,
those who dream of visiting
and those who are nostalgic for more

FOLLOW US FEB-MAR

IN
2020

TE ED
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N I
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@lacucinaitalianausa OVER PHILADELPHIA

80
RECIPES
WHERE TO EAT
ITALIAN
A DRINK IN
FLORENCE
A MOLISE
MENU
DISCOVER
NEW
TRADITIONS

TRAVEL
PARMA
VENICE
BORMIO
UMBRIA

RISOTTO MAMMA MIA, CHE BUONO!

W W W. L AC U C I N A I TA L I A N A . C OM

VISIT BEING DIGITAL

Check out our website for recipes, tutorials, videos, Download the App LA CUCINA ITALIANA USA
stories, culinary itineraries and more in the App Store and Google Play
www.lacucinaitaliana.com to read the magazine on your mobile and tablet

Go Gaga
With 20 stores in Florida and California, Gelato-go
recently expanded its empire to Hong Kong.
The founders of this Miami-based franchise
inaugurated their newest concept, Pasta-go,
on Alton Road, South Beach this past August,
followed by an Ocean Drive outpost this winter.
Choose from authentic Italian pasta preparations,
such as Al pomodoro, Arrabbiata and Puttanesca.
gelatogo.net & pastago.us

Pile High
Add some extra oomph to your sandwich with Levoni’s deli
meats. The fragrant and flavorful Mortadella Oro with
pistachios follows a century-old recipe — its silky, luscious
slices melt in your mouth. If you prefer more of a kick, the
Schiacciata Piccante is an exquisitely bold and spicy pork
salami rounded out by chili, paprika and fennel seeds. Both
are available in the U.S. levoniusa.com

10 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Aperitivo

CARAMELIZED ONIONS
WITH RASPBERRY VINEGAR

FOR THE LOVE OF

ONIONS
Jazz up your cheese board with an iteration of this versatile allium

A
small selection of cheese Skill Level Easy Cut the onion into thin slices.
Time 10 minutes, plus 1 hour Marinate them for 1 hour in
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

and condiments paired

with a refreshing glass of marinating a bowl with raspberry vinegar,
wine is always a thought- Vegetarian all well mixed.
ful way to welcome Drain, then transfer to a pan with
guests. Caramelized onions, with their INGREDIENTS FOR 4 the sugar, a pinch of salt and a knob
sweet-and-sour notes, pair delightfully of butter. Braise 4-5 minutes over high
with mature and fresh cheeses. They 7 red onions heat, switch off the heat and let cool.
add some extra bite to an aperitivo, or 2
⁄3 cup raspberry vinegar Serve with thin slices of Parmigiano
are lovely on the dinner table alongside 31/2 Tbsp. sugar and a young cheese, such as primo
velvety vegetables or a light pasta. butter – salt sale.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 11
 On Royalty

THE KINGLY KRUMIRI These cornmeal cookies

from Casale Monferrato
were created in 1878,
the year of King Vittorio
Emmanuele II’s death, and
their shape is a tribute to his
handlebar mustache

A
night of revelry at a café
that ended in confec-
tioner Domenico Rossi’s
kitchen — pure chance
seems to have brought
Piedmont its most fa-
mous cookie. After 141 years, the recipe
hasn’t changed. The Portinaro family,
who bought the pastry shop and Kru-
miro patent in 1953, still implements the
three-day artisanal method and packag-
es them in the traditional keepsake tin.
No one’s sure of the name’s origins, but
there are two theories. According to the
first, Rossi named his cookie after a li-
queur called krumiro in honor of those
late nights out with friends. The second
theory leads us back to Casale Monferra-
to’s Jewish tradition — the Yiddish word
krumm means “crooked”… just like the
king’s mustache.

TEXT VALENTINA VERCELLI, RECIPE J. NÉDERLANTS, PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

Our Version
Ingredients for 50 cookies:
1 cup fine cornmeal, 51/2 oz.
softened unsalted butter,
2
⁄3 cup powdered sugar,
2
⁄3 cup all-purpose flour, salt,
2 large egg yolks, 1/2 vanilla pod

Mix the butter with the powdered sugar

and egg yolks, then add the flour and
cornmeal, a pinch of salt and the seeds
scraped from the vanilla pod. Blend into
a stiff dough. Let rest in the refrigerator
for at least 30 minutes. Remove the
dough from the fridge and place in
a pastry bag with a 1/2” serrated tip.
Squeeze ridged tubes at least 2”-3”
long directly onto a baking sheet lined
with parchment paper, then bend them
slightly into the traditional shape. Put
the baking sheet in the refrigerator for
around 10 minutes. In the meantime,
preheat the oven to 325°F then bake for
15-16 minutes. Remove and let cool.

12 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Melt Their Hearts

GO LOCO FOR COCOA

It’s no secret that there’s something
so exhilaratingly sensual about
chocolate. On Valentine’s Day
— or whenever you’re feeling
in the mood — take the simple
route: keep hot, melted chocolate
sauce on hand to savor with your
better half. Whether poured over
ice cream or drizzled on finger
food, it’s bound to add a little
extra oomph to the occasion.
Sexy, intimate and pleasurable...
everything that Valentine’s Day
should be.

Get Saucy
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING C. CARMANA

When it comes to Valentine’s Day

— or any romantic occasion for that
matter — a little bit of chocolate
sauce can go a delightfully long way
LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 13
 Eat Your Words

TEXT ANGELA ODONE, RECIPE ANDREA RIBALDONE, PHOTO G. BRETZEL, AG. GET TY IMAGES, STYLING S. VASQUEZ
STEAK OUT
We dug into our archives and created a sauce inspired by the works
of an esteemed Italian poet to liven up your cut of choice
INSPIRED BY
Salsina Allegria
GIUSEPPE UNGARETTI
Simple and genuine, this ”joyful sauce“ Skill Level Easy bits. Dampen with the oil and vinegar,
is inspired by L’allegria di naufragi/The Time 30 minutes and let soften for 15 minutes.
Joy of Shipwrecks, a volume of works by Vegetarian Finely chop a generous sprig of each
poet Giuseppe Ungaretti. According to herb, then combine with the bread and
a 1963 interview with La Cucina Italiana, INGREDIENTS FOR 1 STEAK grated juniper berries. Incorporate the
the bon vivant preferred ”spaghetti almond and hazelnut flours, chopped
with butter and cheese, stockfish alla 4 oz. stale bread walnuts, a pinch of salt and the zest and
livornese [a red sauce with olives] and 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar juice from 1/2 lemon (at least).
bistecca alla fiorentina [a steak typical 1 Tbsp. chopped walnuts Blend, adding 2 Tbsp. cold water and
of Florence].” So, we created this steak 1 Tbsp. almond flour 1/2 cup oil. Season with salt if necessary,
sauce in his honor. 1 Tbsp. hazelnut flour cover with plastic wrap and keep in
lemons – mint the refrigerator until ready to serve
nepitella alongside steak.
juniper berries Good to know: Nepitella is an herb
wild fennel used regularly in Italian cuisine on our
parsley side of the pond. In the U.S., it can be
extra-virgin olive oil found at certain farmers' markets as well
salt – pepper as some nurseries for those who want to
grow their own. If you can’t find it, just
Crumble the bread crumbs into coarse substitute oregano or mint.

14 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Nuptials

WITH THIS CHEESE

I THEE WED
This tiered formaggio platter elevates the idea of cheesecake to a ripe new level

BUILD YOUR OWN

From bottom to top: Toma Valle
Elvo serves as the base of our
wedding cheese-cake. This soft
cow milk cheese from Piedmont
boasts intense flavors and aromas
that reflect its Alpine origins.
Scimudin is a brie-like cheese
with a soft rind that’s produced in
the foothills of the Lombard Alps,
while Vacherin is a rich, gooey
Swiss cheese produced from
mid-August through late March.
Finally, the earthy Tuma D’F•,
a Slow Food Presidium sheep
milk cheese typical of the Langhe,
wears the crown.
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 15
 Liaisons

ENOITECA MASCARETA
CALLE LUNGA SANTA
MARIA FORMOSA 5183
Night owls eat incredibly well
and drink even better here,
cloaked in the hospitality of
Mauro Lorenzon. The bowtied
and bespectacled host
personifies the lively spirit of his
beloved wine bar.
ostemaurolorenzon.com

GRITTI PALACE
CAMPO SANTA MARIA
DEL GIGLIO 30124
Watch the sunset from the
patio while sipping one
of Hemingway’s favorite
concoctions, then sit for a meal
prepared by Daniele Turco,
whose impeccable cuisine
includes ingredients from
around the world.
thegrittipalace.com

WHEN IN VENISSA

VENICE
FONDAMENTA
DI SANTA CATERINA, 3
Chefs Chiara Pavan and
Francesco Brutto helm the
kitchen at this Michelin-starred
resort on the outer island
of Mazzorbo, where the
With its ties to Cassanova, echoing footsteps owners have revived and
made wine from the indigenous
and lapping canals, Venice offers the perfect romantic Dorona grape.
backdrop for a meal. venissa.it

ALL’ARCO 2
SESTIERE SAN PAOLO 436
This bacaro, or wine bar QUADRI
specializing in cicchetti (typical PIAZZA SAN MARCO 121
PHOTO GIACOMO BRETZEL

Venetian bar snacks), is one Massimiliano and Raffaele

of the city’s most traditional. Alajmo, the brothers behind the
Located in the labyrinthine esteemed three-star Le Calandre
streets near the fabled Rialto in Padua, offer Michelin-
fish market, the century-old starred riffs on the bounty of
locale is run by the the Venetian Lagoon in an
fourth generation of the astounding, remarkably restored
Pinto family (pictured). 17th-century cafe. alajmo.it

16 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Exuberance

Lemon
Zest
Brighten up those dark
and dreary days of winter
with this simple, satisfying
recipe — without having
to make a grocery store run.
You should already have
everything you need in your
fridge and pantry

Lemon Cream
Cookie Tart
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 45 minutes + 1 hour refrigeration
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

3/4 cup sugar

2 oz. dry cookies
4 tsp. flour
3-4 lemons
3 large eggs
TEXT VALENTINA VERCELLI, RECIPE GIOVANNI ROTA, PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

powdered sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Cut the lemons in half. Slice a few
thin rounds to use as a final garnish,
then squeeze them to obtain around
1/2 cup juice. If you prefer a less-bitter
tart, reduce the amount of juice by
1 or 2 Tbsp. for a more delicate result.
Mix the eggs with the sugar and flour,
then add the lemon juice, a little at a
time. Thicken the mixture on the stove,
stirring constantly for 10-12 minutes.
Line a 10”x4” baking pan with
parchment paper.
Create the bottom layer by lining the
cookies alongside one another, then
crumble the remaining ones to fill the
gaps between the cookies.
Pour the lemon cream over the cookies
and bake for around 15 minutes.
Remove from the pan using the
parchment paper as an aid, and let
cool in the fridge for 1 hour. Garnish
with the lemon slices and a sprinkling
of powdered sugar before serving.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 17
 Ugly Pretty

BRUTTA MA BUONA
Pastry chef Simona Galimberti shares a recipe for a cheesecake that, while it
might not tempt you at first glance, will make your taste buds dance at first bite

B
Ricotta Cake
TEXT V. VERCELLI, PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

rutti ma buoni means

“ugly but good,” and
this phrase is not only Skill Level Easy juice the lemon.
a cheeky descriptor, but Time 1 hour + 30 minutes for cooling Whip the egg yolks together with the
the moniker bestowed granulated sugar, then mix in the ricotta,
o n a b e l ove d I t a l i a n INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6 the potato flour and the lemon peel
cookie. Though recipes vary by region, and juice, and mix with electric beaters
Piedmont claims one of the most popu- 11 oz. cow milk ricotta until smooth.
lar iterations — crispy, yet chewy choc- 1/2 cup granulated sugar Beat the egg whites until stiff and gently
olate-hazelnut meringues shaped like a 2 Tbsp. potato flour, sifted fold into mixture.
casually crumpled piece of paper. Here, 3 eggs Line an 8”-round/2”-high cake pan
we borrowed and adapted the term for 1 lemon with parchment paper, pour in the
this simple though dazzling ricotta powdered sugar mixture and bake for around 40 minutes.
cake. While the intriguingly amorphous Remove the cake from the oven
dolce might not be so easy on the eyes, Preheat the oven to 350°F. and let cool. Sprinkle with powdered
it most certainly stirs the palate. Grate the lemon peel and sugar and serve.

18 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Imbibe

Meet, Stay, Sip

Here are five cocktail bars across the continent where you can enjoy
a cleverly crafted libation mixed by some of the most deft hands in the biz

DANTE
NEW YORK
The owners’ efforts to couple
old-school Italian charm with
a modern flair haven’t gone
unnoticed as the World’s
50 Best Bars recently awarded FLORENCE 66
its top honors to Dante. Sip one FLORENCE
of the specialty negronis PONY UP Pour 6 parts Champagne, 4 parts
or a Garibaldi mixed with DENVER pomegranate juice and a touch
“fluffy” orange juice. It’s good vibes all around at this of elisir (herbal liqueur) into
dante-nyc.com lively downtown joint. Sip the a vintage Champagne coupe.
Beauty and the Beet with Spring
CURE
44 gin, Cocchi Americano, Mixologist Cristina Bini crafted
NEW ORLEANS
grapefruit, lemon, egg white this cocktail for Gurdulù. Today,
With its numerous accolades
and absinthe. Edoardo Lazzeri, the new
and distinctions, this decade-old
ponyupdenver.com bar manager, currently oversees
cocktail bar is a beloved local
Gurdulù’s cocktail program.
institution. Sip a delicious Fall in THE DRIFTER
Sardinia, a negroni with notes CHICAGO
of wormwood, sour orange, At this 1920s-style speakeasy
myrtle berry and cassia bark. hidden beneath the Green Door
curenola.com Tavern, choose from more than
100 ever-changing cocktails
PRETTY UGLY
presented on tarot cards.
TORONTO
thedrifterchicago.com
This wildly inventive, quirky
PHOTO JACOPO SALVI

cocktail bar is known for mezcal,

but we also suggest the
Cuke Sky-Walker with grappa,
sherry, spiced melon, tepache,
lime and cucumber.
prettyuglybar.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 19
 Teatro Farnese is one of the
treasures of Palazzo della
Pilotta, a 16th-century
complex in the center of
Parma. Opposite: a detail
of Antonio Canova’s statue
of Marie Louise of Austria
as Concordia, the Roman
goddess of harmony,
grasping the plate with which
the duchess is said to have
“nourished” the city; chef
Roberto Conti of Ristorante
Parmigianino and his anolini
in veal consommé.

20 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Modern Classic

A FEAST FOR THE

PA TE
LA
Parma, home to exquisite prosciutto and the sumptuous Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese, sits in the heart of the Italian Food Valley, earning the Creative City
of Gastronomy 2020 and Italian Capital of Culture distinctions from UNESCO
by SARA MAGRO, photography DAVIDE LOVATTI

Y
ou can find all the ingre- A flavorful touch of tradition the tasting of “gastrofluvial” dishes,
dients you would ever A brief digression: here, fumära, fog like his hallmark frog legs with mashed
need for a hearty win- in local dialect, is considered godsent, sweet potatoes and legumes.
ter feast in Parma: pro- a gift that helps cure the meats and The people from in and around
sciutto, culatello, Parmi- adds flavor to the mushrooms — chef Parma cling to tradition — in fact, oste-
giano-Reggiano, porcini Massimo Spigaroli is a fan. Originally ria menus haven’t changed in decades.
mushrooms and fresh-from-the-forest from Umbria, Spigaroli transformed At Osteria Ardenga in the town of Diolo
truffles, as well as plenty of quinces and an old farm in the town of Polesine di Soragna, you’re sure to find anoli-
butternut squash, not to mention the Parmense into Antica Corte Pallavicina, ni in brodo (a local beef-filled pasta in
fundamentals for some classic pasta rec- a multipurpose complex complete with meat broth), punta di vitello (a typical
ipes: Mutti tomato sauce and Barilla also a Michelin-starred restaurant and bis- veal brisket preparation) and sparkling,
call Parma home. I could go on — the trot, a relais with frescoed halls and semi-sweet red Lambrusco wine. Book
list is a mile long. The city of Parma and guest rooms, an organic vegetable gar- weeks in advance to dine at Trattoria
its eponymous province is one of Italy’s den and a farm that raises pigs, ducks Ai Due Platani in the town of Coloreto,
richest “mother lodes” of unforgettably and hens. Spigaroli also owns a culatel- recently named “Italy’s best tratto-
delicious food, nicknamed Food Val- lo museum and hosteria, which fel- ria” by Italian food magazine Espresso.
ley as it contains the greatest number of low chefs, such as Alain Ducasse and Otherwise you’ll be left dreaming of the
traditional Italian products with quality Massimo Bottura, have visited, as have pumpkin tortelli and the mountain of
certifications. The local cuisine is best sa- notables like the Prince of Wales. He vanilla gelato that’s rolled in on a dessert
vored via a satisfying winter meal. serves paper-thin cured meats before cart carrying an array of toppings. ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 21
Modern Classic

Fast facts: Parma

Parmigiano and prosciutto:
don’t pass up Culatello to describe something the local claim to fame
di Zibello and Coppa delightfully delicious. Parmigiano and prosciutto are stal-
di Parma, two typical Sip: Lambrusco, a warts of the local food canon. Of the
cured meats. Torta fritta, semi-sweet red sparkler, 330 cheese factories, Bertinelli and
a deep fried puff pastry is emblematic of the Gennari, two historic producers, are
similar to gnoccho fritto, region and pairs well among the few with a complete supply
is quite dreamy. Anolini with all the specialties. chain. Bertinelli also specializes in ko-
is a meat-filled pasta Buy: We know that ge- sher Parmigiano and has a rabbi super-
Where: The city of Parma while tortelli’s fillings lato doesn’t travel well, vise the entire process, from the milk-
sits within its eponymous tend to be meat-free. but Banchini gelataria’s ing of the cows to marking the cheese
province in the heart of Emi- Speak Parmigiano: chocolates and cookies wheels with the Star of David. It’s ex-
lia-Romagna, northwest of Da volare via literally do. Stash some in your hausting work, from five in the morn-
Bologna and Modena. means to fly away. luggage for yourself ing to midnight, seven days a week.
Eat: Prosciutto and Parmigia- The Parmigiani say this and/or to bring home Sporting overalls, Paolo Gennari is al-
no-Reggiano are musts, but instead of buonissimo, and gift to loved ones. ways on the job and always churning
More about Parma at www.lacucinaitaliana.com out innovative ideas. Of his three shops,
two are in the center of Parma. In addi-
tion to his prestigious Vacche Rosse and
48- and 60-month Riserva, he’s craft-
ing a new table cheese. He even teaches
“Parmigiano lessons” and sends the stu-
dents their wheel after it has aged.
The history of Prosciutto recounts
tales of bold entrepreneurs, such as
Fratelli Galloni. In July 2016 a fire
at the local factories burned 85,000
legs of ham to a crisp, but the disaster
didn’t slow the family down for a minute
— they sent out the morning deliveries
while the firefighters were still putting
out the flames. Suppliers to Bottura and
Bastianich, they made a name for crudo
di Parma in the United States and intro-
duced the process of aging hams in oak
barrels originally used for fine wines,
which gives the meat a delicate fruity
fragrance — you can taste it for yourself
in the restaurant beside the factory.

“In my dishes, which for the most part are Rediscovering nature
traditional, I always add a ‘pinch of nostalgia’ from Knowing how to modernize tradition
is the secret to the territory’s success,
my travels in Asia,” says chef Maria Amalia which has also preserved its agricultur-
al identity. Rural is the visionary proj-
ect by Mauro Ziveri, owner of the Rosa
dell’Angelo prosciutto production cen-
ter in the hills of Rivalta. The black pigs
from which he makes his 36-month-aged
prosciutto crudo are part of an ancient
local breed. Each enjoys an average of
10,760 square feet of woodland to graze
freely on fresh grass, roots, tubers, ber-
ries and acorns. Ziveri’s big passion,
though, is protecting the area’s agricul-
tural biodiversity, from ancient grains
to Romagnola hens to the now-rare gray
Apennine cows. Rural also hosts a pro-
ducers’ festival every September to ex-
hibit Lamborghini and Landini tractors
for which they set up six huts in the or-
chard for overnight accommodation.
The bathroom is a bit far, but the ➝

22 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 From left, clockwise:
boiled, grilled tongue at
Bistrot Cortex; the Cortex
team at lunch with bread
and salame di Felino IGP,
another product typical of
Parma. La punta di vitello,
a traditional dish at the
Osteria Ardenga run
by the Borlenghi family
(in the photo, the chef with
his daughter Anna).
Opposite: top, Maria
Amalia Anedda prepares
passatelli, which she
serves in mushroom dashi
broth (right). Below,
the entrance of Palazzo
della Pilotta; the famous
black pigs of Parma,
a native breed.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 23
 From left, clockwise,
la vecchia a horse meat
panino. Lopez, sporting
a beret and red shoes,
makes it at Tra L’uss e
L’asa, his paninoteca.
Butternut squash and
quinces at Elisa Ziveri’s
Rural Market. Opposite:
above, historic books
and magazines at the
Academia Barilla library;
Fratelli Galloni’s
prosciutto. Below,
Parmigiano-Reggiano by
Bertinelli, a company that
has had a complete
supply chain since 1895
that now also specializes
in kosher production.

24 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Modern Classic

place is a veritable suite, with a sauna,

chromatherapy and wardrobe stocked
with overalls and boots for anyone who
wants to help out in the fields. They also
own a shop in downtown Parma that
sells seasonal products.

Even music plays a part

As you stop at Tra L’uss e L’asa pani-
noteca for a la vecchia panino (horse
meatballs with sweet bell peppers), the
notes of Aida fill the streets of Verdi and
Toscanini’s city. As you enjoy an aperiti-
vo at Tabarro, you might hear someone
in a nearby home singing an aria from
Rigoletto. Music is everywhere, even in
the restaurants. At Bistrot Cortex, music
by famous singer-songwriters delights
the ears while the menu delights the pal-
ate: egg al Parmigiano and Jerusalem art-
chicokes with nori as well as beef tongue,
bok choy, Jerusalem artichoke chips and
grilled bread, which together form a sort
of bollito whose ingredients are served
separately. Chefs Diego and Simone,
along with Simone’s wife Mikako — the
couple met in London while he was cook-
ing at Locanda Locatelli, she at Nobu —
wanted to come up with a family project. Bertinelli produces kosher Parmigiano-Reggiano,
In fact, the team also includes Simone’s
sister Ottavia in the dining room, and
which is exported primarily to the U.S.
her husband Tommaso Granelli on social From the milking of the cows to marking the cheese
media. The convivial atmosphere, casual
interior, well-organized kitchen and gen- wheels with the Star of David, a rabbi oversees
erous dishes showcase how the traditional the entire production process
trattoria can evolve.

Fine dining welcomes

the new
Chef Marco Parizzi’s Michelin-starred
namesake concept is a school, online
shop and suites, while Terry Giacomello
is the star of the moment with Inkiostro
at Hotel Ink. Roberto Conti now gra-
ces the Ristorante Parmigianino at the
Grand Hotel de la Ville, where he has
one clear goal: winning over the city
while implementing ingredients and re-
cipes from outside the Food Valley. He
knows it’s not easy to lure people to a
hotel restaurant in a city brimming with
exquisite trattorias. But judging from
how his restaurant is often booked so-
lid, his Lombard-style risotto and veal
cutlet undoubtedly please the locals. He
also studies Emilian cooking and spends
a lot of time at the Academia Barilla’s li-
brary, which is filled with endless forms
of inspiration, from magazines to 5,000
historic dinner menus to landmark texts
about Parma-style culinary arts.
Chef Amalia Maria Anedda, who
studied under Ducasse, won’t do with-
out tradition either. At Ristorante ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 25
Modern Classic

Les Caves in the town of Sala Baganza,

she serves passatelli pasta in a mush-
room-flavored dashi broth inspired
by her travels in Asia. And breakfast
at Carlotta Campari’s La Terrazza sul
Duomo B&B is complete with antique
porcelains, silver platters, moka-fresh
espresso, pastries and, of course,
Parmigiano and salumi.
At this point it must be clear why
Parma was the first Italian city designated
a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
and why it’s poised to be a 2020 Italian
Capital of Culture — yet Parma’s bounty
isn’t limited to its tabletops. Impressive
works can be found in the Duomo, Teatro
Regio and Palazzo della Pilotta, a mon-
umental complex that’s home to Teatro
Farnese, the Bodoni typography and
printing museum, Italy’s leading arche-
ological museum as well as paintings by
Parmigianino, busts by Bernini, Leonardo
da Vinci’s La Scapigliata and a Canova
sculpture of Marie Louise of Habsburg,
duchess and benefactress of Parma.
“My ancestors ran one of Giuseppe Verdi’s farms. “They’re a miniature of the Vatican mu-

In my family they say the maestro was rather seums, and no one knows about them,”
says director Simone Verde. He came to
impetuous, like his music, but a good man and Parma from the Louvre Abu Dhabi, and
it’s thanks to him that they’re dusting off
a culinary man,” says Massimo Spigaroli, who wrote this jewel, shining a new light on Parma’s
a cookbook inspired by the composer’s love of food priceless heritage and the efforts being
made to promote it.

ADDRESSES
Antica Corte Pallavicina,
anticacortepallavicinarelais.it
Osteria Ardenga, osteriardenga.it
Trattoria Ai Due Platani, Strada
Budellungo 104/a, Coloret o PR
Ristorante Les Caves,
lescavesrestaurant.it – Parizzi,
ristoranteparizzi.it – Inkiostro,
ristoranteinkiostro.it – Ristorante
Parmigianino, ristoranteparmigianino.it
Academia Barilla,
academiabarilla.it – Cortex Bistrot,
cortexbistrot.com – Enoteca
Il Tabarro, tabarro.net
Tra l’uss e l’asa, tralusselasa.it
Prosciuttificio Fratelli Galloni,
galloniprosciutto.it – Rural, rural.it
Azienda Agricola Bertinelli, bertinelli.it
Caseificio Paolo Gennari,
caseificiogennari.it – Complesso
monumentale della Pilotta, pilotta.
beniculturali.it – Grand Hotel
de la Ville, grandhoteldelaville.com
B&B La Terrazza sul Duomo,
terrazzaduomoparma.com
Parma City of Gastronomy,
parmacityofgastronomy.it

26 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 From left, clockwise,
Paolo Gennari runs his
family dairy farm,
established in 1953.
The Duomo di Parma,
alongside Carlotta
Campari’s, Terrazza sul
Duomo B&B with a view of
the cathedral. Opposite:
Massimo Spigaroli in his
liquor lounge, the
restaurant, frog legs and
the little church at the
Antica Corte Pallavicina.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 27
HOW THE WINE OF
KINGS STILL RULES
THE TABLE
Fontanafred
da Baro
Serra lunga lo DOCG
B arolo is cele
brated for d’A lba
bottles have a its ag in
long shelf-life. g potential, meaning most
typically reac This bottle by
hes its peak 6- Fontanafredda
ev en longer de 8 years after
pendin g on th the harv est, or
e vintage.

Lauded as the “King of Wines and Wine of Kings,” Barolo

is made with Nebbiolo grapes in Piemonte, and is renowned
for its rich history, bold flavors and ability to age gracefully.
All great wines have a great story. the mid-1800s. It was around the same
The most prestigious expression of the time that Barolo began to distinguish
Nebbiolo grape variety, Barolo wine itself thanks to a dry, tannic profile
hails from a village of the same name that set it apart from the sweet and
located in the region of Piemonte. fruity wines of the time. Barolo was
Known around the world as “the king granted DOCG status in 1980, and
of wines,” Barolo is a timeless wine today’s Barolo winemakers coax an
with a history as rich as its nickname. elegant expression out of their harvest
While wines have been made from with a minimum aging of at least three
Nebbiolo for centuries, the name years (two years in oak barrels and one
“Barolo” didn’t appear on labels until year in the bottle).
AN EATALY GUIDE TO
Barolo
O
T he B aro ne DOCG,
lo D ele
in the re OCG encomp ven v i l lage
L a Mor g ion. T he “Big asses 11 differen s
ra, C Five” — t commu
of course astiglione Fale Mo nes
, B arolo tto, S er nfor te d ’Alba,
and soil — hav e ra lu n ga d
. B etw e
en them the advanta ge ’Alba, and
PIEMONTE
th o
Barolo of all B a ey account for f altitude
rolo pro n
duction early 90%
.

THE NEBBIOLO VARIETY

For anyone in doubt that Nebbiolo is
indigenous to northern Italy, consider
Fresh tartufo bianco d’Alba shaved onto Eataly’s housemade tajarin
its name: “Nebbiolo” is thought to
derive from the Italian nebbia, meaning PIEMONTESE PAIRINGS
“fog”. Barolo DOCG wines can only A complex red wine often pairs well
be produced with Nebbiolo grapes with robust dishes like meat, and
grown in specific zones surrounding Barolo is no different. A hearty stew of
the village of Barolo. The scenic brasato al Barolo even makes calls for
region sits in the foothills of the Alps the wine in the dish itself (if you can
in northwestern Italy; in fact, the bear to spare it). Or try it with stuffed
mountainous soil that nurtures the pasta typical of the region, like tajarin
Nebbiolo vines is what gives this wine or agnolotti del plin. For an elevated
its distinct characteristics. Nebbiolo affair, enjoy a glass with the sensory
grapes bud early and ripen late, and are pleasures of white truffles (tartufo
usually harvested in late October, when bianco d’Alba) for a classic marriage of Hand-picked bunches of Nebbiolo from the Fontanafredda winery
temperatures begin to drop steadily. two of Piemonte’s finest exports.

EATALY’S TOP BAROLO PICKS

FONTANAFREDDA MIRAFIORE BORGOGNO
Barolo DOCG Barolo DOCG Barolo DOCG
Serralunga d’Alba This noble Mirafiore estate Cannubi
With over 250 acres, was established in 1878 by The name Borgogno is
Fontanafredda’s Barolo the son of King Vittorio connected to one of the
Cru property is the single Emanuele II and soon oldest wine cellars in
largest contiguous wine became internationally Piemonte. Founded in
estate in the Langhe region renowned, only to 1761 by Bartolomeo
of Piemonte. It was disappear at the start of Borgogno, their
purchased in 1858 by the twentieth century. winemakers continue
Vittorio Emanuele II, the Recently, Fontanafredda to craft elegant red
first king of Italy, who has helped re-establish wines to this day. Made
cherished the Nebbiolo Mirafiore as a classic with fruit from the
variety. This classic winemaking label; their renowned Cannubi
expression displays the power that is Barolo is soft and balanced, with vineyard, this is a round, full-bodied
a benchmark for quality Barolo from clear-cut overtones of ripe plums and with floral and spicy aromas,
Serralunga, loaded with notes of and tobacco. which will only get better with age.
smoke, leather, plum and exotic spice.

Find these authentic Italian products and many more at Eataly this winter!

Discover more at EATALY.COM #ThatsFoodLove

n yc f l at i ron • n yc d ow n t ow n • ch ic ag o • bos t on • l os a nge l e s • l a s v eg a s • t oron t o
 Adaptation

Even the land These recipes from Brio

Gluten Free Bakery in
of pasta and pizza Verona call for artisanal
mixtures of organic flours
abounds with and long rising times.
Every day, Giovanna
scrumptious gluten- Sammarro (left), assisted
by her staff, makes
free recipes. These a dough that leavens
overnight.
soft rolls, ravioli
and gnocchi are
so light and fragrant
that you’ll forget
they’re missing
a typical ingredient
recipes
GIOVANNA SAMMARRO
text LAURA FORTI
photography
RICCARDO LETTIERI
styling
CECILIA CARMANA

BREEZY AND
GLUTEN
FREE
30 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Radicchio Ravioli
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour + 2 hours for resting
Vegetarian, gluten-free Mix the cornmeal, buckwheat flour, and 1 Tbsp. breadcrumbs. Put the
tapioca starch and xanthan gum with mixture in a pastry bag.
the eggs to form a smooth dough. Take out the dough and dust the
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 Place in a bowl, cover with plastic workspace with buckwheat flour.
wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. Roll the dough into a thin sheet —
2
⁄3 cup fine cornmeal Trim the radicchio, cut into small don’t make it paper thin as gluten-free
4 oz. red radicchio pieces and rinse. dough has a higher risk of tearing.
4 oz. boiled potatoes Place a drizzle of oil and a pinch Cut the dough into 21/2” squares.
2 Tbsp. dark buckwheat flour, of salt in a frying pan and cook the Squeeze a dollop of the radicchio
plus extra radicchio over a medium flame. Turn filling onto each square and seal
4 tsp. tapioca starch off the heat when the white sections them into triangles.
1 tsp. xanthan gum begin to pale, which is usually around Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
2 large eggs the 10-minute mark. Drop the ravioli into boiling salted
Parmigiano Let the radicchio cool, then squeeze water. When they float to the surface
gluten-free breadcrumbs dry and grind it in a mixer. Stir in the remove them with a slotted spoon.
extra-virgin olive oil – salt crushed potatoes, 2 Tbsp. Parmigiano Dress as desired.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 31
Adaptation

Bread Rolls with Olives

and Cherry Tomatoes
Skill Level Easy
Time 40 minutes + 2 hours for rising
Vegetarian, gluten-free

INGREDIENTS FOR 12 ROLLS

1 cup flour mix for gluten-free

bread
3 Tbsp. fine cornmeal
4 tsp. pitted olives
4 tsp. sun-dried tomatoes in oil
11/2 tsp. fresh brewer’s yeast
11/2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar

Dissolve the sugar in 2⁄3 cup warm

water, then crumble and dissolve the
yeast in it. Combine the flour and
cornmeal in a bowl, stir in the salt and
oil, then pour in the sugar and yeast
solution. Knead until clump free; if
using a kneader, use the flat beater,
which is better for soft doughs than
a dough hook.
Crumble the olives and dice the
tomatoes. Split the dough in two.
Mix the olives into one half and the
tomatoes into the other.
Preheat the oven to 75-85 °F.
Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper and place 6 tall 21/2” cake rings
on top. Divide each batch of dough
into the rings. Place in the oven and
let rise for 2 hours.
Set the oven to 350°F and bake the
rolls without ventilation for 10 minutes,
then raise the temperature to 400°F,
add ventilation and bake for another
5 minutes.

GOOD TO KNOW
Leavening There gum) is obtained helping flours bond.
are three ingredients through a complex All three can be found in
that on their own or process that begins pharmacies or herbalist
when combined can with the fermentation shops.
compensate for the of natural strains of the Baking When a recipe
elasticity-forming effect bacteria Xanthomonas calls for baking at a
normally provided by campestris. Psyllium certain temperature, you
gluten: guar, xanthan (or psyllium fiber) is need to preheat the oven
and psyllium. Guar obtained from the seeds an extra 100°F, given that
(also guar gum or guar or cuticle of Plantago the temperature drops
flour) is obtained from psyllium, a plant also significantly once the
ground seeds of the from India. When oven door has been
guar plant, a legume gluten is missing, these opened and the room-
of Indian origins. three products have temperature ingredients
Xanthan (or xanthan the common trait of have been placed inside.

32 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Spinach Gnocchi
Skill Level Easy
Time 1 hour
Vegetarian, gluten-free

INGREDIENTS FOR 6

2 lb. potatoes
1 lb. fresh spinach
4 Tbsp. rice flour, plus extra
4 Tbsp. corn starch
4 Tbsp. tapioca starch
1 large egg

Boil the potatoes for 40 minutes.

In a separate pot, boil the spinach
for 2-3 minutes, drain and let cool.
Squeeze dry and chop finely.
Drain the potatoes, peel then mash
them in a bowl with a potato masher.
Stir in the spinach.
Combine the flour and starches,
and stir them into the potato mixture,
followed by the egg.
Mix until smooth. On a surface dusted
with rice flour, roll a little dough at a
time into tubes around 1” in diameter.
Cut the tubes into small pieces to make
the gnocchi.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
Drop the gnocchi into the boiling
water. When they float to the surface
remove them with a slotted spoon.
Dress as desired.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 33
 Locavore

A TASTE OF
MOLISE Pizza buffs know Molise for its cornmeal
crusts, but this relatively unsung Southern
Italian region — part of Abruzzo until
1970 — prides itself on vibrant rustic fare
drawn from centuries-old traditions
recipes JOËLLE NÉDERLANTS, text VALENTINA VERCELLI,
photography RICCARDO LETTIERI, styling BEATRICE PRADA

Lunch
CRISPY CACIOCAVALLO
CHEESE BITES

HUMBLE
ORIGINS
Nestled cozily between
Lazio, Campania, Abruzzo and
Puglia, the mountainous region of
Molise sits along the Adriatic Sea.
Like most regions of Italy, a history
of poverty has shaped its cuisine.
Expect simple preparations, robust
flavors and the occasional jolt
of spiciness.

34 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 VEDOVO
SAUCE
This typical Molisano
sauce hails from the cuisine’s
humble origins. Vedovo means
“widower” and the sauce is so-
called because it doesn’t have any
meat — the principle ingredient is
lard, or pig fat, consumed by
the underprivileged who
couldn’t afford nobler
meat cuts.

Dinner
CAVATELLI WITH
VEDOVO SAUCE

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 35
Locavore

Crispy Caciocavallo Cavatelli with Wine-Stewed Sweet

Cheese Bites Vedovo Sauce and Sour Almonds
with Almond Cake
Skill Level Easy Skill Level Intermediate
Time 45 minutes Time 1 hour Skill Level Easy
Vegetarian Time 2 hours and 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 Vegetarian
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
FOR THE CAVATELLI INGREDIENTS FOR 10
14 oz. chicory 14 oz. remilled durum wheat
8 1/2”-thick slices of slightly semolina 1 lb. almonds, blanched
aged caciocavallo salt 2 cups dry white wine
2 large eggs, beaten FOR THE SAUCE 2 cups sugar
1 garlic clove, skin on and 2 lb. ripe tomatoes 1 cup dry red wine
smashed 2 oz. lardo or cured fatty bacon 5 tsp. cooked grape must
flour – breadcrumbs 1/2 garlic clove 2 Tbsp. honey
fresh chili pepper parsley, chopped 2 cups almond flour
extra-virgin olive oil – salt basil leaves, chopped 3/4 cup sugar
Pecorino 6 large eggs
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon
Wash and shred the chicory, salt salt
blanch for 1 minute, remove and pepper
gently squeeze dry. FOR THE WINE-STEWED ALMONDS
Wilt in a pan for 5 minutes with FOR THE CAVATELLI Preheat the oven to 325°F.
3-4 Tbsp. oil, the smashed garlic clove Mix the semolina with approximately Place the almonds on a baking sheet
and a few pieces of chopped chili 1 cup water and a pinch of salt. Form lined with parchment paper and roast
pepper. the dough into a ball and cover it with for 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove plastic wrap, then let rest for 30 minutes. Remove then stew in a large pot
the garlic and coarsely chop the chicory. Flour the work surface. with the sugar, white and red wine,
Divide the chicory between 4 slices of Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. grape must and honey until the liquid
caciovallo, then top with the remaining Shape the dough into small cylinders has reduced to a dense syrup (around
4 slices to make a sandwich, pressing a little less than 1/4” in diameter. Cut 2 hours and 10 minutes).
down slightly so they adhere. them into small pieces around 3/4” long FOR THE ALMOND CAKE
Dip the 4 caciocavallo “sandwiches” and drag them along the work surface, Preheat the oven to 325°F.
first in the flour, then in the beaten eggs squeezing them with two fingers, to Beat the egg yolks with 1/2 cup sugar
and, lastly, in the breadcrumbs. Repeat achieve the classic cavatelli shape. and a pinch of salt until they turn
this process once more, then bake for Cook the cavatelli in the boiling water pale yellow.
15 minutes. for 5-6 minutes, until they rise to the Mix in the lemon juice and the almond
surface. flour, stirring constantly.
FOR THE SAUCE Beat the egg whites until peaks form,
CACIOCAVALLO Bring a pot of water to a boil. then gradually add 1/4 cup sugar and
This pear-shaped raw cow’s milk Blanch the tomatoes, peel them, remove continue to beat until the peaks stiffen.
cheese is typical of Southern Italy. the seeds and cut them into 1” pieces. Gently fold the egg whites into the
Agnone, a town in Molise’s Isernia Beat the lardo and fry it in a pan with mixture.
province, produces the most famous. 2 Tbsp. oil, 2 Tbsp. parsley and the Pour into an 8”-round cake pan
Its name translates to “horse cheese” chopped garlic. Add the chopped and bake for 40 minutes.
and it’s so-called as, when formed, two tomatoes, a few basil leaves, salt and Remove from the oven and let cool.
cheeses are typically tied together and pepper, and cook for 25 minutes. Cut into squares and serve with the
aged a cavallo (straddled/dangling) Dress the cavatelli with the sauce. stewed almonds.
over a stick or wooden board. Finish with plenty of grated pecorino
and serve.

On March 19, the feast of St. Joseph, all Molisano

households have 13 “poor” dishes atop their tables. Among
these are the (exquisite) sweet-and-sour almonds

36 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 LA MERENDA
In Italy, merenda is an
afternoon snack taken to hold
one over between meals. It should
be filling yet not risk spoiling dinner.
Almonds abound in Molise and
this recipe is just one of the many
ways the Molisani enjoy them
— merenda time or not.

Merenda
WINE-STEWED
SWEET AND SOUR ALMONDS
WITH ALMOND CAKE

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 37
 Through the Grapevine

V
A
L
VENI,O P
VINI ,
L
I
C
E Corvina,
corvinone and

L
rondinella
grapes give
us Valpolicella,

L
Ripasso,
Amarone
and Recioto,
all vibrant reds

A
from the Veneto
by VALENTINA VERCELLI,
photography
GIACOMO BRETZEL

38 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 H
« ow much corvina did
you use?” asks Giacomo
Bretzel. The photogra-
pher is my Valpolicella
travel companion, and
we’re currently in the
Pasqua cellars about to complete the fi-
nal phase of the winemaker’s new tast-
ing experience. In the aging room sits
a table topped with various tools of the
trade: two “wine thieves” (pipettes used
to draw small amounts of wine from the
casks), two beakers, paper and pens,
blank labels, two empty bottles and two
aprons. Off to the side are a small cork-
ing machine and a burner topped with Opposite: Giancarlo
a small pot of bubbling thick, red liquid: Tommasi pours wine
from one of the barrels
sealing wax. at his winery.
We’re creating our own personal wine Inside the Zýmē
that we get to keep, and after tasting the winery's karstic cavern.
contents of the casks, I combine three Above: winemaker
Cristian Ridolfi, director
varietals. Over the last few days, I’ve
of the Santi winery.
discovered that corvina veronese is the
area’s noblest grape, known for elegant,
soft, fruity reds, though it’s at its finest word “BOOM” written in big, colorful let- 1950, which Alberto Bolla’s children
when blended. Fiddling with pipettes ters, along with a punching bag complete and grandchildren bottled for his 80th
and beakers, we’re having as much fun with boxing gloves. “This was my uncle’s birthday. The area’s most famous red,
as children playing with chemistry sets. office, and I wanted to transform it into however, had already been created a few
The experience strengthens my convic- a more welcoming place,” says Riccardo years earlier and was born from Recioto,
tion that, despite Pasqua’s almost cen- Pasqua. “The punching bag represents the sweet passito wine. Legend has it
tury-long history, the work, currently any potential clashes during a meeting, that in the 1930s, a cask of Recioto sat
overseen by the third generation, is also and ‘Boom!’ is an exclamation that often forgotten, and consequently continued
a creative act — in fact, two earlier oc- comes up during business talks.” to ferment. It’s said that when the cellar
casions verified this for me as well. The master tasted the wine, expecting it to be
first: when we tasted Hey French: You A blessing in disguise amaro (bitter), he exclaimed, “This wine
Could Have Made This But You Didn’t, a We continue with visits to two Verona isn’t amaro, it’s amarone!” However,
white produced in the Soave area, a com- winemakers from the Gruppo Italiano no one knows for sure how exactly the
bination of the last decade’s four best Vini: Bolla and Santi. Bolla played an superlative form of the adjective became
vintages. Its name is not only a taunt but instrumental part of the territory’s the name of one of the world’s most
also a tribute to the territory’s winemak- history as it was here, in 1953, where the famous Italian reds.
ing history. The second was our visit to first Amarone wine was sold: the now- Cris tian Ridolfi, winemaker at
the meeting room, presided over by the famous Amarone Bolla Riserva del Nonno the Santi cellars, explains the ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 39
Through the Grapevine

Cheese and salumi from territory’s distinctive differences. Its nestled in a landscape of rare beauty,
Trattoria dalla Rosa 8,000 hectares of vineyards span 19 equally divided into vineyards and
Alba. Below: the family municipalities north of Verona. The olive groves, and taste three different
who runs this restaurant
specializing in typical classico area lies within the borders of oils, accompanying them with glasses
Veronese fare. Negrar, Marano in Valpolicella, Fumane, of Amarone and an excellent Ripasso,
Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella and San another typical local wine, which is made
Pietro in Cariano. Corvinone and rond- by “repassing” a Valpolicella base over an
inella, in addition to corvino, are the Amarone pomace.
most important grapes for local reds, Yet Valpolicella isn’t all vineyards and
to which small percentages of other va- olive groves. During the height of the
rieties may be added — among them, season, the cherry blossoms are breath-
oseleta, which is currently undergoing taking, while Venetian villas captivate
a revival. visitors year-round. Renaissance archi-
Valpolicella reds are known for intense tect Andrea Palladio designed the Villa
cherry aromas coupled with a hint of bit- Serego, which, along with the 18th-cen-
ter almonds. In Valpolicella Classico, the tury Villa Mosconi Bertani, is UNESCO-
cherry is fresh and crisp, becoming more protected. Originally constructed for
mature in Valpolicella Ripasso and dens- farming and winemaking, the latter cur-
er in Amarone and Recioto. rently serves as the headquarters of the
Bertani family’s Tenuta Santa Maria. We
Cherry trees, olive groves pass through its elegant frescoed halls,
and villas the cellars and the lofts with the arele,
Valpolicella’s classico zone is flanked wood and bamboo racks used to dry the
by Valpantena, where, in addition to grapes, and a dainty English garden.
grapes, olive trees also thrive due to its A great deal of local winemaking his-
particular microclimate. We visit Costa tory came to pass within these walls.
Arènte, Genagricola’s winemaking estate After an exile in Burgundy, the Bertani

Fast facts: Valpolicella

you prefer a local white,
Pinot Grigio hails from the
Veneto, and we suggest
keeping an eye out for
Soave.
Speak Veronese: A local
phrase (spoken regularly)
says, Meglio morire
ubriachi che mangiati,
which means “Better to
Where: Valpolicella is die drunk than eaten.”
located in the province of In local dialect, it’s said
Verona, perched in the as such: Meio morir bevui
hills north of its namesake che magnai.
city and west of Venice. Buy: Obviously, it’s the
Eat: Head to Trattoria perfect opportunity to
dalla Rosa Alda to enjoy stock up on Valpolicella.
typical Veronese dishes. Some other food items
Don’t miss the hand-made that travel well: olive oil
tagliatelle enbogonè from Lake Garda and
in a sauce made from pandoro, a local baked
bortolotti beans and Lake treat popular around the
Garda olive oil. Also, holidays. Although not
while you’re in this neck edible, the handmade
of the woods, you’d be stationary at II Gelso is
remiss to skip the exquisite particularly special and
pies at Renato Bosco’s makes for a thoughtful
pizzeria Sapore. and unconventional gift
Sip: Of course Valpo- for yourself or your
licella is a must, but if loved ones.
More about Valpolicella at www.lacucinaitaliana.com

40 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Massimilla di Serego
Alighieri. Left: the
Valpolicella landscape.
Below: Riccardo Pasqua
and his boxing gloves
in the meeting room
of his family's winery.

brothers returned to their native land bit more structured but still casual: it’s
with many innovative ideas, such as nice at a barbecue or a Sunday dinner
the Guyot system. When they noticed with tortellini and a roast. Amarone is
that consumers had started to favor the wine for special occasions, brought
less-sweet wines, they began to pro- out for a birthday or a special dinner,
duce drier Reciotos, the forefathers of but it’s also highly recommended for an
modern-day Amarone. evening of company and conversation.
Recioto remains unsurpassable with
Did you say Dante? desserts, blue cheeses and chocolate.”
We make our way to Possessioni Serego
Alighieri to meet Massimilla di Serego Save the date
Alighieri, a direct descendant of Dante Before our journey ends, we visit
Alighieri, the monumental Italian poet. Celestino Gaspari, a former collaborator
Pietro, Dante’s son, purchased the of cult Amarone producer Giuseppe
estate in 1353, having accompanied his Quintarelli. His Zýmē winery, which sits
father on his exile to Verona. Today it partly in an ancient sandstone quarry,
is home to Valpolicella’s oldest cellars, is outfitted with a corkscrew-shaped
and the prestigious Masi Group, helmed elevator and staircase, karstic cavern
by Sandro Boscaini, oversees the with a water spring and soft, dramatic
winemaking. As we stroll the manicured lighting. We taste a few rarities, such
gardens, I ask Massimilla about her as a wine made from oseleta or From
favorite wine. “If I were on a deserted Black to White, a blend with rondinella
island I would want Amarone della owned by the Tommasi family, wine- bianca, a natural genetic mutation of the
Valpolicella Classico Vaio Armaron [one makers since 1902. Its wellness center traditional variety.
of the world’s top ten wines, according offers wine therapy treatments using At Vigneto dei Salumi, we sit at the
to Wine Spectator], but my ‘travel wine,’ the grapes’ healthful substances, such round table in the all-wood meat ag-
the one I always pack alongside my little as the Divino Amarone, which includes ing room and choose from among chef
black dress, is a Possessioni red because a grape seed oil bath and an Amarone Walter Ceradini’s creations. The Isabella
just like the dress it’s perfect for any compress. Enjoy the family's wines at is a tender 24-month-seasoned pork leg
occasion, and it goes well with any dish, the villa’s Borgo Antico restaurant or while the polvere del Vinappeso is a lean
including fish.” In the bottle, corvina and the onsite shop. We ask the Tommasis cut of oven-dried pork that's been pul-
molinara grapes encounter sangiovese, to suggest some foods pairings for the verized. Valpolicella’s response to bot-
the dominant varietal in Chianti. wines. “Valpolicella Classico is an ev- targa, it’s perfect for flavoring risottos
The 17th-century Villa Quaranta is eryday wine; it’s fresh, versatile and goes and vegetable dishes — it’s also nice on
a four-star hotel with spa, the villa is with everything, even pizza. Ripasso is a top of gelato.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 41
 1

42 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Get Comfy

B
12

No dish welcomes
guests quite as warmly

R
as a cold cut platter.
8
In case you’d like
to draw inspiration
from Italy for yours,

U
here are some ideas.
Cheese
1. Formaggio Piave
DOP This hard cow

S
milk cheese hails from
the Dolomites.
2. Buffalo
Mozzarella DOP
A luscious cheese with
a richness that lingers
significantly longer

C
9 than its cow milk
6 counterparts. Salumi
3. Parmigiano 7. Prosciutto crudo
Reggiano DOP In Italy, this dry-cured
The “King of Cheeses” ham is a kitchen staple.
always brings a 8. Salame Felino
pleasant burst of IGP From the province
umami. of Parma, this sweet

H
4. Burrata pork salumi is made
Stracciatella on the with red wine and
inside, mozzarella on black peppercorns.
the outside — enough 9. Salame Milano
said. Various spices are
5. Montasio DOP incorporated into this
A crumbly cheese from pork salumi produced

EB
Friuli that dates back in and around Milan.
to the 13th century. 10. Mortadella
6. Grana Padano This particular variety
DOP This sweet of the popular
granular cheese Bolognese lunch meat
10 typical of the Po Valley has pistachios.
ages for at least nine
months. Extras

TL
11. Sweet olives
These scrumptious
green delights add a
delicately briny flair to
your spread.
12. Semi-cooked
tomatoes in oil

T I
Enjoy these on their
own or piled on
bruschetta.

Mix and Match

AS
Try one or all of these combinations
for an indisputable win-win
(from left to right):
11
Bruschetta 1
Prosciutto crudo + Buffalo Mozzarella
DOP + Semi-cooked tomatoes

S
text Bruschetta 2
JACLYN DEGIORGIO Mortadella with pistachios + Montasio
photography DOP
RICCARDO LETTIERI Bruschetta 3
styling Salame Milano + Grana Padano DOP
BEATRICE PRADA
LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 43
 February – March

in season What we’re cooking now

photography RICCARDO LET TIERI, styling BEATRICE PRADA, SERENA GROPPO

For more recipes visit www.lacucinaitaliana.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 45
appetizers

I
S T
A
A N T I P

46 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Fried Tripe with
Pepper Mayonnaise
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

1 lb. tripe, blanched

2 large egg yolks
1 lemon
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2
⁄3 cup sparkling water
grated lemon zest
mustard
sunflower seed oil
salt – pepper

FOR THE MAYONNAISE

Combine the egg yolks with 1 tsp.
mustard, a pinch of salt and the juice
of 1 lemon.
Blend the mixture in a blender,
slowly adding 2⁄3 cup sunflower seed
oil to form a mayonnaise.
Add the grated lemon zest and
1 tsp. fresh pepper.
FOR THE TRIPE
Wash the tripe well and cut into thin
slices. Dry with paper towels and
sprinkle with a pinch of salt.
Mix the flour with the sparkling water
to make a batter.
Pour enough sunflower seed oil into
a pan to cover the tripe when frying.
Coat the tripe with batter and fry, a few
at a time, in the oil for about 3 minutes.
Remove and place on paper towels
to absorb the oil.
Add salt to taste and serve hot
accompanied by the mayonnaise.

Mediterranean
Torciglioni with
Chicory Sauce marjoram Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the
chili pepper flakes tray from freezer and halve lengthwise,
Skill Level Easy extra-virgin olive oil then slice the other way to produce 1/2”
Time 1 hour and 15 minutes salt – pepper strips. Brush with the beaten egg and
Vegetarian twist each piece into a braid. Transfer
FOR THE TORCIGLIONI to a baking tray lined with parchment
INGREDIENTS FOR 60 PIECES Combine the tomato paste with paper and bake for 15 minutes.
1 tsp. chopped marjoram leaves, FOR THE SAUCE
7 oz. chicory, rinsed 1 egg, cream, Parmigiano and Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
5 oz. Greek yogurt a pinch of chili flakes. Boil the chicory for 2 minutes.
4 Tbsp. Parmigiano, grated Unroll 1 puff pastry dough roll and Chop coarsely, then place in the
4 Tbsp. tomato paste place on a baking tray. blender. Combine with 4 Tbsp. oil
1 Tbsp. cream Spread the mixture over the dough and a pinch each of salt and pepper.
2 rolls rectangular puff then unroll the second roll of puff pastry Mix until uniform.
pastry dough dough and place on top. Add the yogurt and blend until creamy.
2 large eggs Freeze for 30 minutes. Serve the torciglioni with the sauce.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 47
appetizers

48 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 A N T I PAS T I

Lemon Carrot 1/2 cup Parmigiano, grated gently fold in from the bottom up.
Ricotta Terrine 3
⁄4 cup all-purpose flour Preheat the oven to 350°F.
unsalted butter Melt the butter and use it to brush a
Skill Level Intermediate flax seeds 71/2” ring mold, then pour in the mixture.
Time 45 minutes + 4 hours for resting salt Bake for approximately 30 minutes.
FOR THE WAFERS
INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6 Boil the potatoes with the skins Preheat the oven to 350 °F.
on until tender. Combine 1/4 cup softened butter with
1 lb. carrots Bring a pot of salted water to a boil 1/4 cup flour, 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano
1 lb. ricotta and cook the peas for 3 minutes if fresh and the remaining egg whites.
1/4 cup cream or 7-8 minutes if frozen. Line a baking sheet with parchment
3/4 oz. gelatin Drain and, while still warm, purée until paper and brush on the mixture in
lemon smooth and velvety. 2” strips. Sprinkle a handful of flax
cashews, shelled Peel the potatoes and, while still seeds on top, distributing evenly.
extra-virgin olive oil warm, use a potato masher or ricer Bake for 7-8 minutes.
thyme to mash them. Remove from the oven and let cool
salt – pepper Lightly beat 2 egg whites. Bring the cream to a boil, remove from
Combine the puréed peas with the the heat and stir in the robiola cheese.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. mashed potatoes, then add 1 Tbsp. Serve the ring cake while it’s warm,
Peel the carrots then slice into thin grated Parmigiano, 1⁄3 cup flour and 2 accompanied by the wafers and the
strips using a vegetable peeler. Blanch tsp. salt. Finally, add the egg whites and warm robiola cream.
in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes,
drain and let cool.
Mix the ricotta with 1 tsp. grated lemon
rind, 1 tsp. olive oil, salt and pepper.
Dissolve the gelatin in hot cream.
Let cool to about 95°F, then add the
cream to the ricotta and mix well.
Line a 9”x 4” mold with plastic wrap.
Coat the mold with the carrot strips so
that they overflow by half the length,
placing them parallel to the shorter side
and letting them slightly overlap.
Spread a layer of ricotta about 1/2”
thick on top and cover with 3-4 layers
of carrot strips. Repeat the process until
all the ingredients are used. At the end,
fold over the edges of the overlapping
carrots, gently pressing them down on
the ricotta so that it holds together well.
Refrigerate for 4 hours.
Drizzle a pan with olive oil and
toast 2 Tbsp. cashews.
Remove the terrine from the mold and
garnish with cashews, ground pepper,
thyme, and, if desired, glazed carrots.

Pea Cake with

Crispy Wafers and
Robiola Cream
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour and 40 minutes
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 10-12

11/2 lb. peas

11/2 lb. potatoes
5 oz. robiola cheese
1/2 cup cream
3 large egg whites

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first courses

IMI
R
P

50 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Nettle Risotto
with Pecorino Sauce
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

11/2 cups carnaroli rice

9 oz. nettles
3/4 cup milk
8 oz. hazelnuts, peeled
and toasted
1 cup Pecorino, grated
3 Tbsp. Grana Padano, grated
4-5 cups vegetable broth
cornstarch
white wine vinegar
extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE RICE

Prepare a pot of boiling water
and in another pot, bring the vegetable
broth to a boil.
Clean the nettle leaves, blanch them
in the boiling water and then remove.
Blend to a soft cream.
Blend 4 oz. hazelnuts with 2⁄3 cup oil,
and chop the remaining hazelnuts.
Toast the rice in a dry saucepan for
3-4 minutes. Moisten with a ladleful of
boiling broth and cook, adding more
broth, a little at a time, for 15-18 minutes.
FOR THE SAUCE
Bring the milk to a boil.
Add 1 tsp. cornstarch disolved in in 1 tsp.
water. Add the grated pecorino, and stir
until it forms a sauce.
Stir the nettle sauce in to the risotto,
along with 3-4 Tbsp. hazelnut oil and
Grana Padano.
To serve, top with 1 tsp. white wine
vinegar, the Pecorino sauce and the rosemary sprigs oil and 4 Tbsp. water, working the
chopped hazelnuts. salt – pepper ingredients until smooth and uniform.
butter Flour a work surface and roll the
vegetable broth dough into a paper-thin sheet.
Caramelle with extra-virgin olive oil Cut out 21/4” circles.
Prepare the caramelle by placing
Mortadella and FOR THE PUMPKIN VELOUTÉ a small walnut-sized ball of filling in
Pumpkin Velouté Preheat the oven to 350°F. the center of each, then fold into half
Clean the pumpkin: remove the seeds, moons.
Skill Level Intermediate but leave the peel on. Cut into slices. Flatten the dough around the filling
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes Place on a baking tray and top with a to remove the air. Press the ends of the
drizzle of oil and salt. crescent between your fingers and use
INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6 Bake for 50 minutes. your thumb to work it into the shape of
Remove the peel and blend the pulp wrapped candy.
4 cups pumpkin with 2 ladlefuls warm broth, a few Bring a pot of salted water to a boil
1/2 lb. mortadella, shredded rosemary leaves, 2 Tbsp. oil, a pinch of and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain with
2 cups all-purpose flour salt and freshly ground pepper. a slotted spoon and cook in a pan with
Grana Padano FOR THE CARAMELLE a knob of butter for 1 minute. Ladle the
or Parmigiano, grated Blend the mortadella with an egg, the velouté into shallow bowls, top with
1 Tbsp. dry amaretti cookies cheese and amaretti for the filling. pasta, garnish with rosemary and
2 large eggs Mix the flour with an egg, 1/2 Tbsp. serve immediately.

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first courses

Spaghetti with Shrimp

and Chili Pepper
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour and 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

21/2 lb. shrimp

12 oz. spaghetti
1 celery stalk
1 carrot
1 onion
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 bay leaf
cilantro
fresh chili pepper
dry white wine
extra-virgin olive oil
salt

Shell the shrimp and remove the

brown vein. Empty the heads and set
aside with the shells for the broth.
Heat 2-3 Tbsp. oil in a saucepan and
brown the heads and shells for about
5 minutes on high heat, mixing and
crushing them with a spoon.
Clean and chop the celery, carrot and
1/2 onion and add them to the saucepan.
After 2 minutes, add the tomato paste.
Moisten with a glass of white wine,
let evaporate, then add 2 qt. water and
1 bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Cover
with a lid and let simmer for 50 minutes.
Turn off the heat and strain, extracting all
the broth. Heat a drizzle of oil in a large
pan and toast the uncooked spaghetti,
Barley with stirring for 2-3 minutes.
Peel and slice the turmeric. Add three ladles of shrimp broth, then
Squacquerone Cheese Transfer to a pot with filled with continue to cook the pasta like a risotto
and Turmeric 6 cups water and cook for 5 minutes for about 10-12 minutes, adding a little bit
after it comes to a boil. of both salt and broth at a time. During
Skill Level Easy Toast the barley in a dry pan with the last few minutes, let the pasta absorb
Time 30 minutes a pinch of salt for 1 minute. the broth so it doesn’t need be drained.
Cook for approximately 20 minutes, Warm up the shrimp.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 adding the turmeric broth a little at Turn off the heat when the spaghetti is
a time to moisten. al dente. Transfer to another pan coated
11 oz. pearl barley Stir 2 Tbsp. cheese into the barley. with a thin layer of oil and sautée for
4 oz. Squacquerone PDO Brown the guanciale in a pan, place 1 minute until crispy. Add the shrimp and
cheese (or soft stracchino) on top of the barley along with a handful of chopped coriander.
2 oz. guanciale, sliced the remaining cheese and serve. Serve with more coriander and
3 fresh turmeric roots – salt chopped fresh chili pepper.

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 PRIMI

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 53
first courses

54 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 PRIMI

Pasta and Cream

of Broccoli with
Anchovies, Hazelnuts
and Grapefruit
Skill Level Easy
Time 50 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

2 lb. broccoli
7 oz. macaroni-style pasta
3 Tbsp. hazelnuts, blanched
12 anchovies
fresh chili pepper
anchovy paste
pink grapefruit
extra-virgin olive oil
pepper – salt

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Clean the broccoli and set aside the
nicest florets. Cook the rest of the brocoli
for 7-8 minutes. Drain and blend with
4 Tbsp. oil, adding salt and pepper if
needed.
Fillet the anchovies and cut them into
1/2” pieces. Add a drizzle of oil and a
pinch of salt to a non-stick pan and place
over medium heat. Brown the anchovies
on their skin side for 2 minutes.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil
and cook the pasta. Set 1 cup of the
cooking water aside, then drain a couple
of minutes before the time indicated
on the package.
Blanch for 2-3 minutes the florets that
were set aside, drain and brown them in
a frying pan with the macaroni, a pinch
of anchovy paste and a few slices of
fresh chili pepper for 1 minute, then add
1 ladleful of the pasta water and cook
for 2-3 more minutes.
Chop the hazelnuts and grate the
grapefruit rind.
Spread the broccoli cream on plates,
place the macaroni and broccoli
florets on top. Finish with the chopped
hazelnuts and 1 tsp. grapefruit peel,
and serve.

Bucatini with 1 cup broccoli florets immersion mixer to blend.

6 oil-packed anchovy fillets Turn the heat back on, add the milk
Mozzarella, Broccoli cornstarch with the cornstarch and let it thicken
and Orange Zest orange – salt for 2 minutes to obtain a bechamel-like
texture. Let cool, then add the chopped
Skill Level Easy Place the anchovies and a drizzle of mozzarella and blend everything into
Time 30 minutes their oil in a sauce pan and cook them a sauce.
down over low heat. Dissolve the tip of Bring a pot of salted water to a boil
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 a teaspoon of corn starch in 2 Tbsp. milk and cook the bucatini. Add the broccoli
(taken from the 1 cup). florets 2 minutes before the end of
12 oz. bucatini Mix the rest of the milk with the cooking. Drain everything at the same
9 oz. buffalo mozzarella anchovies in the saucepan. time, dress with the mozzarella cream
1 cup milk Switch off the heat and use an and finish with grated orange zest.

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first courses

56 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 PRIMI

Ravioli with Arugula,

Artichokes and
Almonds
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 50 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

2 cups all-purpose flour

4 egg yolks
1 egg
9 oz. ricotta
5 oz. arugula, washed and
chopped
2 Tbsp. Pecorino, grated
3 oil-packed anchovy fillets
1 shallot, chopped
butter – salt
FOR THE TOPPING
4 oz. almonds, unblanched
3 artichokes
dry white wine
extra-virgin olive oil
butter – salt

FOR THE PASTA

Mix the flour with the egg, egg yolks
and 2 Tbsp. water to obtain a smooth
mixture. Work it first in a bowl, then
move to a floured surface. Cover with
plastic wrap and let rest for 1 hour.
FOR THE FILLING
Chop the shallot and let it sweat
in a saucepan with 11/4 oz. butter for
2 minutes. Add the anchovy fillets
and melt them in the butter. Finally
add the arugula and salt, stewing for
5-6 minutes. Remove from the heat and
let cool. Mix the arugula with the ricotta
and Pecorino to obtain the filling, then
scoop it into a pastry bag.
FOR THE RAVIOLI
Roll the dough out into thin strips then Pasta with Butternut
distribute the filling in walnut-sized Drain and squeeze out the excess water,
mounds, placing them 2” apart. Brush
Squash, Sausage and then blend with the ricotta and a pinch
a little water around the filling then Lettuce Cream of salt to obtain a smooth cream.
cover with another sheet of pasta. FOR THE PASTA
Remove the air by pressing down Skill Level Easy Chop the onion and brown it in a large
around the filling, then cut out the ravioli Time 40 minutes pan with a drizzle of oil for 5 minutes.
with a round or drop-shaped pastry Remove the sausage from its casing,
cutter every 21/4”. INGREDIENTS FOR 6 cut into small pieces and add to the pan.
FOR THE TOPPING Crush and crumble it for 2-3 minutes
Peel the artichokes and cut them into 1 lb. small pasta, such as while cooking. Blend in a dash of wine
8 wedges. Cook them in a pan with a calamarata and cook for another 8-10 minutes. Dice
thin layer of hot oil and a pinch of salt for 1 lb. fresh sausage the pumpkin and brown it in another pan
5 minutes. Blend with 1/2 glass wine and 10 oz. butternut squash with a drizzle of oil for about 5 minutes.
cook for 10 minutes. Roughly chop the 9 oz. ricotta Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
almonds and toast them in a pan. Add 5 large lettuce leaves Cook the pasta until al dente, then
a knob of butter and sauté for 2 more 1 onion drain, setting aside 1 cup of the cooking
minutes until they are glossy. dry white wine water. Add the pasta to the sausage
Boil the ravioli for 2-3 minutes, drain extra-virgin olive oil pan, then add the pumpkin and stir.
and dress with the butter and almonds. If needed, add a little cooking water.
Finish with artichokes and aromatic FOR THE CREAM Finish with the cream and mint leaves
herbs to taste. Boil the lettuce leaves for 2 minutes. to taste.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 57
first courses
Pumpkin Minestrone vegetable broth it to the soup. Sauté the spinach
extra-virgin olive oil in a drizzle of oil for 1 minute.
Skill Level Easy salt Drizzle a pan with olive oil and heat
Time 50 minutes over a low flame. Trim the other spring
Vegetarian Trim the pumpkin and cut it into 1” onions, removing the green part. Cut
pieces and chop 1 spring onion. them in half lengthwise and sauté for
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 Add 3 Tbsp. oil to a pan and fry the 2 minutes.
onion for 1 minute. Add the pumpkin Peel a piece of ginger and cut it into
3 lb. pumpkin and let cook for about 3 minutes, then small sticks. Distribute the minestrone into
7 oz. pasta, such as ditalini add 1 qt. vegetable broth and cook deep dishes and top with the spinach
1 oz. fresh spinach leaves for 25-30 minutes. leaves, sautéed spring onions and
3 spring onions Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. ginger sticks.
fresh ginger Cook the pasta until al dente then add Add croutons to taste.

58 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 PRIMI

Orecchiette with
2 oz. salt-packed capers, rinsed Chop the capers, olives and tomatoes,
Mediterranean Pesto 2 oz. sun-dried tomatoes and mix together in a bowl with the
and Chicory 1 lemon drained citrus peels, 11/2 Tbsp. lemon
1 orange juice, 11/2 Tbsp. fresh-squeezed orange
Skill Level Easy coarse salt juice and the oil, until it forms a fragrant
Time 40 minutes sauce with the consistency of pesto.
Vegetarian Prepare 3 small pots of boiling water. Break apart the chicory leaves, wash
Peel off 1/2 oz. orange rind and 1/2 oz. and trim them then cut them into strips.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 lemon rind. Cut them into thin strips, Place them in a bowl of ice water
parboil for a few seconds and drain. to make them crisp and curled, then
1 head chicory Repeat this process 2 more times drain completely.
12 oz. fresh orecchiette so the peels lose their bitterness. For Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil convenience, you can prepare them Cook the orecchiette, strain, toss with
2 oz. Taggiasca olives, pitted simultaneously in the other pots. the pesto and garnish with the chicory.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 59
first courses

Gorgonzola nutmeg FOR THE CANNELLONI

and Ricotta Cannelloni Parmigiano cheese Pre-heat the oven to 375°F.
extra-virgin olive oil Pour 2-3 Tbsp. bechamel in an oven-
Skill Level Intermediate salt – pepper proof dish that will hold the 16 cannelloni
Time 1 hour and 20 minutes shells. Fill the cannelloni and place them
Vegetarian FOR THE FILLING beside each other in an 11”x 14” pan.
Remove the gorgonzola rind and mix Cover with the remaining bechamel
INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6 the cheese with the ricotta, 11/2 oz. and sprinkle with more grated
grated Parmigiano and the egg. Season Parmigiano. Cover with aluminum
2 cups cold milk generously with black pepper and a foil and bake for 30 minutes.
14 oz. creamy sweet gorgonzola pinch of salt. Mix everything and place Remove the foil and increase the
9 oz. ricotta inside a pastry bag. temperature to 390°F. Let brown for
9 oz. Romanesco broccoli florets FOR THE BECHAMEL around 10 minutes. In the meantime,
4 Tbsp. pistachios, shelled & peeled Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add bring a pot of salted water to a boil and
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter the flour and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the cook the broccoli for 6-8 minutes. Drain
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour milk, stir and bring to a boil. Stir constantly and dress with a drizzle of oil. Serve the
16 dried cannelloni shells for around 10 minutes. Add salt and flavor cannelloni with the broccoli florets and
1 large egg generously with grated nutmeg. the chopped pistachios.

60 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 vegetables

VER
U

D
RE

Fried Artichokes
with Shallot Sauce
Skill Level Easy
Time 40 minutes
Vegetarian/Gluten-free

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

1 cup cream
4 Romanesco artichokes
4 shallots
parsley
dry white wine
lemon – butter
sunflower seed oil
extra-virgin olive oil
salt

Bring a pot of salted water to

a boil and add the juice of 1 lemon.
Trim the artichokes and cook them
whole for 14-16 minutes.
Remove and chill immediately until the liquid has almost
in ice water for 2 minutes. completely reduced.
Cut them in half lengthwise and fry them Blend the mixture and return
in a pan with 1/4 cup oil for 4-5 minutes. it to a saucepan over heat
Peel the shallots, coarsely chop and cook until it reaches
them and brown them in a saucepan a creamy consistency.
with 1 Tbsp. of butter and a pinch Blend 1/2 oz. parsley leaves
of salt for 4-5 minutes; with 11/2 Tbsp. olive oil and
Add a few stalks of parsley and 2 Tbsp. sunflower seed oil.
1/2 glass of wine. After a couple of Drizzle the parsley oil on the
minutes, add the cream and continue artichokes and serve with the
cooking for another 8-9 minutes, shallot sauce on the side.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 61
vegetables

Fennel Au Gratin
with Cinnamon
Skill Level Easy
Time 45 minutes FOR THE BECHEMEL Remove and allow to cool.
Vegetarian Heat the milk together with 1/4 tsp. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
cinnamon and a pinch of salt. On the Grease a baking dish with butter
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 side, melt 21/2 Tbsp. butter, then mix in and spread bechamel on the bottom.
the flour, turn off the heat and whisk. Add a layer of fennel slices and top
2 cups milk Add the mixture to the milk and cook with the bechamel and grated cheese.
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour for 5 minutes, continuing to stir. Keep layering until all the fennel is
4 fennel bulbs FOR THE FENNEL used, then top with bechamel and
ground cinnamon Bring a pot of salted water to a grated cheese.
lemon boil and add the juice of 1/2 lemon. Bake under the broiler for 12-13 minutes,
Grana Padano, grated Trim the fennel, cut into 1⁄8” slices and garnish with orange zest and serve.
butter – orange – salt boil for 8-9 minutes.

62 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 VERDURE

Baked Onions
Bring a pot of water to a boil. 2 medium leeks
with Zucchini and Trim the ends of the zucchini, cut them 1/2 lb. red potatoes
Mint Sauce into 1/2” pieces and cook for 5-6 minutes. 1/2 lb. fingerling potatoes
Drain the zucchini and purée with the thyme
Skill Level Easy mint leaves, a pinch of salt and 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Time 1 hour and 15 minutes oil to form a smooth, bright sauce. pepper – salt
Vegetarian/Gluten-free Remove the onions from the oven,
peel and separate into sheets. Pour Preheat the oven to 375°F.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 some zucchini sauce on the serving Trim the fennel without removing
plates and place the onion pieces on the base and slice them up. Trim the
4 yellow onions top. Sprinkle with salt if needed and leeks, removing the green part, the
5 cups zucchini garnish with additional fresh mint. base and the first layer.
1 oz. fresh mint leaves, Slice the leeks into thin rings then
plus extra cut the sweet potatoes into 1/2” cubes.
extra-virgin olive oil Roasted Winter Wash the red and fingerling potatoes
salt Vegetables and, leaving them unpeeled, cut them
into similar-sized pieces.
Preheat the oven to 320°F. Skill Level Easy Arrange all the vegetables in a
Shape a sheet of aluminum foil into Time 45 minutes baking dish or on a baking tray, then
a round base with a 3” diameter that Vegetarian/Gluten-free drizzle with olive oil and season with
is slightly concave in the center. Set it salt, pepper and a few sprigs of thyme.
on a baking sheet and place an onion INGREDIENTS FOR 6-8 Place in the oven and bake for
on top so that it stands upright. Repeat around 30 minutes.
for the other 3 onions then bake them 2 fennel bulbs Add freshly ground pepper, fresh
for 45-50 minutes. 1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled herbs and spices to taste, then serve.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 63
entrées
vegetables

DI
N
O
C
SE

64 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 SECONDI

Roast Veal Shank

with Cabbage
Skill Level Easy
Time 1 hour and 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6

4 lbs. veal shank

1 red cabbage
1 red onion
1 apple
1 zest of lemon, minced
unsalted butter
vegetable broth
apple cider vinegar
extra-virgin olive oil
coarse salt
peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

In a mortar, combine a handful of
coarse salt, 1 Tbsp. peppercorns and
the lemon zest. Grind together to form
an even mixture. Sprinkle this on all
surfaces of the veal shank, then place
the veal in a baking dish. Add a drizzle
of oil and 3-5 pats of butter, then bake
for 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Cut the cabbage into thin strips.
Peel the onion and apple, and cut
them into thin slices.
Drizzle a large pot with oil, then fry the
apple and onion together for 2 minutes.
Add the cabbage, salt, a ladleful of
vegetable broth and stew for 10 minutes.
Add 2 Tbsp. vinegar and cook for
another 10 minutes.
Remove the veal from the oven and
take it out of the pan. In a saucepan,
combine the cooking liquid with a
ladleful of broth, warm it up over
medium heat and then strain to get
gravy. Serve it alongside the veal
and the stewed cabbage.
2 small potatoes Peel the potatoes, cut them into 1”cubes
1 garlic clove and combine with the fish guazzetto
Scorpion Fish 1 Tbsp. sea beans sauce together with the olives. Cook
basil – marjoram for 10 minutes.
in Guazzetto Sauce dry white wine Pour 2 Tbsp. oil in a pan and brown
with Frutti di Mare extra-virgin olive oil the scorpion fish fillets on their skin side
salt – pepper for 1-2 minutes. Add to the guazzetto
Skill Level Advanced sauce and cook for 8 minutes.
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes Peel and chop the garlic clove. Pour 1 Tbsp. oil in a pan and toast
Cut the tomatoes into small pieces. the bread for 1 minute on each side.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 Clean the mixed fish, removing the Add 1 Tbsp. oil to a saucepan and open
heads and innards, then cut into small the mussels over medium heat, then
1 lb. mixed fish for frying pieces. Place the garlic and 2 Tbsp. remove half the shells.
3/4 lb. scorpion fish fillet oil in a saucepan and brown the fish Add the mussels, clams and shrimp
10 oz. mussels, cleaned over medium heat. Add 1 cup of white to the guazzetto and mix delicately,
4 oz. cherry tomatoes wine and let it evaporate, then add cooking for 1 minute.
2 oz. shrimp, peeled the tomatoes, 2 basil leaves, a sprig of Boil the sea beans in salted water
2 oz. clams, shelled marjoram, salt and pepper. Cover with for 1 minute.
2 Tbsp. Taggiasca olives water and cook for 30 minutes, then pass Serve the fish accompanied by toasted
4 slices of bread everything through a vegetable mill. bread and garnished with the sea beans.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 65
entrées
Bring a pot of water to a boil and slowly drizzling in 2⁄3 cup oil, until you
Stuffed Squid over add a pinch each of salt and sugar. obtain a smooth cream. Sauté the stuffed
Creamed Chard Separate the chard leaves from their squid in a pan with a little oil over high
stems, then cut them into strips and heat until they become golden. Repeat
Skill Level Intermediate blanch for 2 minutes. Drain and cool with the tentacles.
Time 1 hour and 20 minutes in ice water for 5 minutes, then drain Serve the squid over the creamed
again and set aside. chard, some sprouts and a sprinkling of
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 Chop the stems into 1/4” cubes and toss gomashio, a salt and sesame condiment
them in a pan with a drizzle of oil, an that you can find in supermarkets and
11/2 lb. squid unpeeled garlic clove and the chopped organic specialty shops.
18 oz. chard anchovies for 4-5 minutes, then remove
4 slices of stale bread the garlic. Cut the bread into 1” cubes
1 cup grated Pecorino and place in a pan. Add the stems and White Bream
2 anchovy fillets brown until the bread becomes crisp.
2 sprigs of thyme Let the mixture cool, then add the “En Croute” with
1 garlic clove Pecorino and thyme leaves. Leeks, Olives and
sprouts – gomashio Clean the squid and set the tentacles
sugar aside. Stuff the squid with the bread and Capers
extra-virgin olive oil stem mixture and fasten closed with a
salt toothpick. Blend the chard leaves while Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour

INGREDIENTS FOR 2

8 medium leeks
1 (11/2 lb) white bream, cleaned
7 oz. ready-made bread dough
1 large egg yolk
Taggiasca olives, pitted
pickled capers
thyme
rosemary
unsalted butter
extra-virgin olive oil
salt

Rinse the leeks thoroughly, removing

the green part and the outer layer of the
white part. Cut them in half lengthwise,
then into half circles. Rinse them again,
drain and sauté in a saucepan with
a pat of butter and a pinch of salt.
Lower the heat and cook the leeks
for 10-12 minutes.
Remove the scales and fins from the
fish, rinse it and salt the inside. Place a
rosemary sprig and a few thyme sprigs
in the belly. Pour the leeks into a baking
dish, mixing them with 3 Tbsp. Taggiasca
olives, 1 Tbsp. drained capers and
3 thyme sprigs.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Set the fish on the leeks, sprinkle with
salt and drizzle with a little oil. Roll out
the bread dough until 1” thick, then use
it to cover the baking dish and trim it
to about 1/2” below the top. Add a little
water to the remaining beaten egg yolk
and brush it on the dough’s surface.
Bake for 15-18 minutes then bring the
fish directly to the table. If you like, serve
it with balsamic vinegar — a few drops
on the fish and leeks will brighten up
the flavor.

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 SECONDI

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entrées

68 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 SECONDI

Roast Beef with Root

Vegetables
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour

INGREDIENTS FOR 8

4 lb. beef sirloin, cleaned

10 medium yellow carrots
5 medium purple carrots
4 medium parsnips
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
4 white turnips
2 unpeeled garlic cloves
honey
meat extract
rosemary
thyme
extra-virgin olive oil
salt – pepper

FOR THE ROAST BEEF

Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Drizzle a pan with oil and sear the
sirloin for 2 minutes on each side. Line
a baking dish with parchment paper
and place the sirloin on top. Drizzle
with oil and add a pinch each of salt
and pepper, 1 rosemary sprig and 2
crushed unpeeled garlic cloves, and
bake for around 35 minutes.
FOR THE ROOT VEGETABLES
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Thoroughly scrub the carrots,
parsnip and turnips. Peel the parsnip
and yellow carrots. Cut the yellow and
purple carrots and parsnip into sticks,
and cut the white turnips into 4 wedges
each, keeping a little of the green part Chicken Breast with Separate the chicken breast,
attached. Drizzle the vegetables with Walnuts and Mustard discarding the fatty parts and the central
2 Tbsp. oil and 1 tsp. honey and sprinkle bone. Pour 3 Tbsp. oil in a frying pan
with salt and pepper. Add a few sprigs Skill Level Easy then fry the meat over medium heat for
of thyme then bake for 30 minutes in Time 30 minutes 15-20 minutes, turning them halfway
circulating mode. through cooking. Add salt and pepper
FOR THE SAUCE INGREDIENTS FOR 4 at the end.
Heat 1 cup water then dissolve about Mix 3 tsp. whole grain mustard with
1
⁄8 tsp. meat extract in it and mix well. 2 lbs. chicken breast 4 tsp. creamy mustard in a bowl along
Add the leaves from 1 thyme sprig and 5 oz. winter radicchio with 1⁄3 cup of oil and 11/2 Tbsp. water.
a pinch of salt then cook for 3-4 minutes. 15 shelled walnuts Chop 5-6 walnuts into fine pieces
Remove from heat, add the butter and whole grain mustard until they become a powder.
flour and beat with a whisk, then return creamy mustard Trim the radicchio, arrange it in
the sauce to the heat and cook for extra-virgin olive oil a serving dish with the chicken and
another 3 minutes, continuing to whisk. salt – pepper finish with the mustard sauce, walnut
Serve the roast with the root vegetables powder and the remaining walnuts,
and the sauce. left whole.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 69
entrées
Octopus with Red INGREDIENTS FOR 4 extra-virgin olive oil
sunflower seed oil
Wine and Seafood 3 lb. octopus salt
Mayonnaise 11/2 cups red wine
1 cup chopped red onion Peel the onion and cut it into thin
Skill Level Easy 1 garlic clove slices. Add a drizzle of oil to a large
Time 2 hours and 10 minutes bay leaf saucepan, then gently sauté the onion
+ 30 minutes of cooling lemon for 7-8 minutes with a peeled garlic
clove over medium heat.
Meanwhile, clean the octopus:
separate the body from the tentacles;
remove the eyes and the hard beak at
the tentacles’ base. Add the octopus to
the saucepan with the onion, turn up the
heat, add salt and cook for 2 minutes.
Add the red wine and 1 bay leaf, cover
the pan and cook over medium heat for
about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove
from the heat and let cool in the cooking
liquid for 30 minutes.
Strain and measure out 7 Tbsp.
cooking liquid. Pour it into a tall
container and add 1 cup sunflower
seed oil. Use an immersion blender to
form a mayonnaise, adding the juice
of 1/2 lemon. Serve the octopus with the
mayonnaise and seasonal salad greens.

Clam Sauté
in Cream Soup
Skill Level Easy
Time 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 2

2 lbs. clams, soaked and rinsed

8 oz. mascarpone cheese
4 slices of crustless bread
tarragon
garlic
pepper
dry white wine
extra-virgin olive oil

Cut the bread slices into sticks and toast

them in a pan with a drizzle of oil. In a
saucepan, heat 2 Tbsp. oil and 1 peeled
garlic clove. Add the clams and 1/2 cup
white wine, then cover the pan and cook
until the clams open, which should be
4-5 minutes.
Strain the cooking liquid, pour 11/4 cups
into a saucepan and heat it up.
Add the mascarpone and melt it with a
whisk. Add pepper to taste and cook for
5 minutes. Remove the garlic clove.
Ladle the soup into bowls then add the
clams and sprinkle with tarragon leaves.
Serve the toast sticks on the side.

70 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 SECONDI

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 71
eggs
VA
O
U

72 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Bread Soup with Egg
and Roasted Greens
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 30 minutes + 7 hours marinating
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

2 cups broth
4 oz. savoy cabbage
2 oz. lacinato kale leaves
16 slices thick-crusted bread
4 large egg yolks
salt – sugar
Grana Padano
extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE MARINATED EGG YOLKS

Combine 4 Tbsp. salt with 4 Tbsp.
sugar. Spread half the mixture in a
baking dish and set the egg yolks on
top. Cover them completely with the rest
of the salt and sugar and let marinate
in the refrigerator for 7 hours.
FOR THE SOUP
Preheat the oven to 200°F.
Sprinkle the bread slices with grated
Grana Padano and bake for 7-8
minutes. Remove from the oven and
break them into small pieces. Combine
with the broth and 1 Tbsp. oil and purée
to form a thickened soup.
FOR THE VEGETABLES
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut the outer leaves of the cabbage into
small pieces, removing the hard parts of
the ribs. Clean a few kale leaves then
brush all the greens with oil and bake
for 10-13 minutes until crisp. Remove the
yolks from the salt and set them in a
large bowl of water to rinse them.
Ladle the bread soup into 4 small
bowls with a yolk on top of each and
serve the roasted greens on the side. 4 large eggs of the pan. Dip the sage leaves in the
unsalted butter batter and fry them in sunflower seed
sunflower seed oil oil for 20-30 seconds or until crisp, then
extra-virgin olive oil drain them on paper towels.
Steamed Egg Yolks salt – pepper Toast the pumpkin seeds in a pan with
Over Celeriac Purée 1 Tbsp. olive oil for 2 minutes.
FOR THE CELERIAC PURÉE FOR THE STEAMED EGG
Skill Level Intermediate Scrub, pare and peel the celeriac, Break one or more eggs into a glass
Time 1 hour and cut it into 1” pieces then steam for bowl lightly greased with a little olive oil.
Vegetarian 35 minutes. Purée the celeriac with a Place it in a steamer, cover and cook
pinch of salt and return it to a saucepan. for 3-4 minutes.
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 Add the cream and a pat of butter and Turn the bowl over onto a plate and
mix for a couple of minutes. Remove gently remove the yokes.
2 lb. celeriac from heat and add salt if needed. To serve spread the celeriac purée
2 oz. cream Combine the flour with 7 Tbsp. water on the plates, top with the steamed
1/2 cup all-purpose flour to make a batter. yolks, and sprinkle with pepper and the
6 Tbsp. pumpkin seeds, shelled Pour sunflower seed oil into a frying toasted pumpkin seeds, garnishing with
10 fresh sage leaves pan, enough to cover the entire bottom edible flowers as desired.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 73
desserts

LCI
O
D

74 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
Tangerine and
Olive Oil Cake
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 8

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup caster sugar
11/2 cups powdered sugar
4 oz. yogurt
1/4 cup delicate extra-virgin
olive oil
31/4 Tbsp. cornstarch
21/2 tsp. baking powder
4 tangerines
3 large eggs
unsalted butter
salt

FOR THE CAKE

Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Grate the 4 tangerine peels and mix
it with the yogurt.
In a large bowl, combine and mix the
flour, corn starch and baking powder.
In a separate bowl, whip the eggs and
sugar until the mixture is clear and fluffy.
Gently incorporate the oil first, then the
yogurt, then the flour mixture.
Butter a 9”-round baking dish, dust the
bottom and the edges with a little bit of
flour and add the batter.
Place in the oven and bake for 1 Tbsp. almond flour weights or dried beans. Bake the crust
40-45 minutes. 1 large egg yolk for 20 minutes. Remove the parchment
FOR THE GLAZE FOR THE FRANGIPANE paper and weights, and cook for
Dissolve the powdered sugar in 3 oz. pecans another 5 minutes.
2 Tbsp. tangerine juice and whisk 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened MAKE THE FRANGIPANE
for 2-3 minutes. 3 Tbsp. brown sugar Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove the cake from the mold, 1 Tbsp. maple syrup In a food processor, pulverize the
let cool, then even out the base by 1 large egg pecans and brown sugar into a flour.
trimming with a knife. salt Add the butter, maple syrup, egg and
Place the tangerine glaze on top and FOR THE TOPPING a pinch of salt. Mix and blend. Pour into
garnish with peeled tangerine slices, 1 cup caster sugar the crust and bake for 12-15 minutes.
kumquats and mint leaves. 3 small organic red apples FOR THE TOPPING
2 lemons Peel and core the green apple, then cut
1 green apple it into small pieces. Cook it in a saucepan
Pecan Frangipane maple syrup with the juice of 1 lemon for 10 minutes,
pecans then add 1 Tbsp. maple syrup and
Cake with continue cooking for another 2 minutes.
Caramelized Apples MAKE THE CRUST Let cool, then place on top of the tart.
Combine the two types of flour with Brush the edge of the tart with
Skill Level Intermediate the butter and sugar to obtain a grainy maple syrup and stick on a handful
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes + 2 hours mixture, then mix in the egg yolk. of chopped pecans.
for cooling Shape the dough into a ball, cover Make a syrup: combine the sugar
Vegetarian and refrigerate for 2 hours. with 1 cup water and the juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 340°F. and bring to a boil over medium heat,
INGREDIENTS FOR 8 Roll the dough out into a 1⁄8”-thick sheet then switch off. Thinly slice the red
and then use it to cover the bottom and apples. Leave the peel on, but remove
FOR THE CRUST edges of a 7”-round springform pan, the core and seeds.
1 cup all-purpose flour removing any excess dough at the top. Dip the slices in the caramel syrup,
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter Pierce the dough with a fork, line with let the excess drip off, and arrange them
3 Tbsp. caster sugar parchment paper and cover with pie in a spiral on top of the tart.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 75
desserts
Chocolate Pie 3 Tbsp. sugar a boil and add the rice. Bring again
with Rice Pudding 4 tsp. acacia honey to a boil and cook for 5 more minutes
1 vanilla pod, halved to let the starch seep out.
Skill Level Intermediate lengthwise – salt Drain and pour it into a saucepan with
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes the milk, sugar and vanilla pod. When it
+ 2 hours for cooling MAKE THE CRUST comes to a boil, turn the heat to low and
Vegetarian Cut the butter in 1/2” cubes and combine cook for 45-60 minutes, stirring often so
with the flours, sugar, cocoa powder it doesn’t stick to the pan.
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 and a pinch of salt. Mix until coarse, Cook until all the milk has absorbed
then add 1/2 of the beaten egg. and the rice has a creamy, not-too-dry
FOR THE CRUST Shape into a ball, cover with plastic texture. Transfer to a bowl and let cool
1 cup all-purpose flour wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. to room temperature, then mix with the
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cold Preheat the oven to 350 °F. honey and yogurt. If you like, add 1 Tsp.
1/4 cup caster sugar Roll out the dough paper thin and coat rose water or orange blossom water.
1 Tbsp. almond flour a 7”-round pan with it. Place a circle Fill the pie with the rice pudding and
2 tsp. cocoa powder of parchment paper on top, add pie put in the fridge for 1 hour.
1 large egg – salt weights and bake for 20 minutes. Decorate as desired just before serving
FOR THE RICE CREAM Take out of the oven, remove the with sliced pan-toasted almonds,
11/2 cup whole milk, cold paper and weights and let cool. shortbread crumbs, cocoa beans
5 oz. Greek yogurt MAKE THE RICE CREAM (chopped, peeled and pan-toasted)
3 oz. originario rice (round rice) Bring a pot of lightly salted water to and rose petals.

76 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 DOLCI

Grapefruit
Chiffon Cake Timut pepper cake mold and bake for 50 minutes.
pomelo Retrieve the cake from the oven, flip
Skill Level Intermediate pink grapefruit – salt it over without removing the pan, and
Time 1 hours 30 minutes + 1 hour let cool for 1 hour. When removing the
for cooling Preheat the oven to 325°F. cake from the pan, run a small knife
Vegetarian With an electric mixer, beat the egg along the inside edge to separate it.
yolks with 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar and Prepare a syrup by boiling the juice of
INGREDIENTS FOR 8 a pinch of salt. Incorporate the oil, 1 grapefruit with 1/2 cup granulated sugar
followed by 1⁄3 cup of grapefruit juice. for 5 minutes. Brush the edge of the
3/4 cup caster sugar Then add 1/2 tsp. ground Timut pepper cake with the syrup.
1 cup all-purpose flour and 1/2 tsp. grated grapefruit rind. Cover the edge with ground pistachios
3 Tbsp. rice oil Finally, sift the flour and baking powder so that they stick. Peel 3-4 slices of
11/2 oz. ground pistachios into this mixture. Beat the egg whites with pomelo, pull apart the inner pulp and
31/2 Tbsp. brown sugar the brown sugar until stiff and gently arrange it on top of the chiffon cake,
1 tsp. baking powder fold into the mixture. Pour the batter into named for its light and airy chiffon-like
4 large eggs a sponge cake pan or other 8”-round texture.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 77
 Italians in America

Giorgio Guidotti in his

New York home. Photos
on the wall by Malick
Sidibé, Karl Lagerfeld,
Bruce Weber and Craig
McDean.

COLOR
PA L AT E
78 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 At his New York home,
fashion professional
Giorgio Guidotti
is known for his
dinner parties. Here,
he discusses the
importance of color, his
inspiration and keeping
his guests’ glasses full
by CRISTINA MANFREDI,
photography GIACOMO BRETZEL

I
n the fashion world, everyone
knows Giorgio Guidotti. No,
he’s not a designer who wows
the glitterati with coveted cat-
walk collections each autumn
and spring. Instead the sophis-
ticated and charming Emilia-Romagna
native is the head of communications
for the Max Mara group, a fashion house
established in 1951 that today is one
of the most important names in Ital-
ian-made goods. Today, eight addition-
al brands currently fall within its realm.
For work, Guidotti often finds himself
planning grand-scale events across the
globe, immersing the attendees in brand
experiences conveyed through food.
Ironically enough, he’s never cooked a
day in his life — in fact, he’s very open
about the fact that he can’t even make
a sandwich. And yet anyone who’s ever
been his guest will recount an expe-
rience of an exquisitely cooked meal
complemented by impeccably arranged
table settings. He particularly loves en-
tertaining in his New York home, and an
invitation to his holiday party is one of
the most coveted by local movers and
shakers. Be it a casual lunch, an inti-
mate dinner or an elegant aperitivo,
Guidotti crafts the menu with the head
chef, dedicating meticulous care to even
the smallest details, starting with the
colors. However, not just the hues of the
tablecloth, plates and stemware — for
each dish he chooses particular shades
in a harmonious cornucopia that tempts
the eyes as well as the palate. Here, we
speak to him about what it means to be
the host with the most.

What kind of a host are you? When host-

ing guests, can you enjoy the moment? Lobster salad served
Or are you always rushing around? in its claw. Above:
Well, I hate being alone as much as Guidotti’s New York
I love having guests and being some- home. The couch is by
Richard Mishaan.
one’s guest. Before sending out the invi-
tations, I always think about how ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 79
Italians in America

to best group my friends. I like the idea

that at my home, my guests can meet
new people and make interesting, un-
expected acquaintances. It’s something
I learned from the great masters of the
art of entertaining whom I had the good
fortune to meet in New York. Just think
of Truman Capote’s swans [wealthy, pow-
erful women from New York in the ’60s
and ’70s, including C. Z. Guest and her
daughter Cornelia, Guidotti’s person-
al friends] or Holly Solomon’s unforget-
table style. But it was Deeda Blair who
taught me the importance of recipes that
are captivating even in their color. Food
needs to be aesthetically appealing as
well as delicious.
Is that why you like to include caviar
pizza on the menu?
I stole the idea from an American friend
of mine who surprised us all with it at
lunch one day. Then at a Max Mara event
in Berlin, I put it on the menu along with
a vegetarian version topped with black
lentils. I find the effect of a total black
pizza intriguing, and they both tasted
Giorgio Guidotti. Below:
Vintage dishes from the
delicious.
Richard Ginori Eclettica You also gave the table a touch of refine-
line, cutlery by Gio Ponti ment by playing with black elements...
for Sambonet, vintage Yes, the combination of black and white
Venetian glassware is quintessentially chic. Tablecloth and
and a Vienna Secession
tablecloth. napkins, all with black embroidery on
a spotless white background. I found
them in New York, but they’re a replica
of a Viennese set from the ’20s. As for
the dishes, they’re Richard Ginori orig-
inals from the ’60s, from the Eclettica
line. I bought them at an antique shop
in Reggio Emilia where I also found the
Venetian glassware. The cutlery, on the
other hand, is Sambonet, designed by
Gio Ponti. I wanted to convey a sense of
italianità through the table settings.
And the other dishes? Why borscht?
I wanted a course with bold colors, which
I concluded with blueberries, a dessert
that’s simple but always a hit. As for the
lobster salad, which I’m crazy about, it
was important to me that it be served in
the shell as it adds a distinct shape.
What do you pay the most attention to
when you have company?
The drinks, which need to be of
excellent quality, and, most importantly,
in abundant quantities! Be it wine,
Champagne or vodka, my friends know
that their glasses will never go empty
at my place, because I find it nice to see
RECIPE SILVIA BARBAN

them a little tipsy and cheerful — even

though at the end of the night there might
be a few minor incidents. Once two ladies
left wearing each other’s furs without
realizing it. The funny thing was, the coats
were two completely different styles.

80 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Clockwise: A vintage
table that once belonged
to actress Carole
Lombard and a Paul
McCobb armchair.
Borscht, fresh blueberries
and caviar pizza

“Food needs to be aesthetically appealing as well as delicious,”

Giorgio Guidotti says

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 81
 Martedì Grasso

F I T L E
R T E L
During the Carnival festivites that lead up to Lent, you can find these
indulgent sweet fritters on bakery shelves all around Italy

recipes JOËLLE NÉDERLANTS

text LAURA FORTI
photography
RICCARDO LETTIERI
styling BEATRICE PRADA

SFERETTE DI RICOTTA

Sferette di Ricotta,
or ricotta balls, are
delightful round fritters
stuffed with ricotta cheese,
a characteristic of many
Sicilian sweets.

82 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Chiacchiere
means “chit chat”
and each city has its
own name for these sugar-
dusted fried dough sheets
— frappe in Rome, bugie in
Milan, galani in Venice
and sfrappole in
Bologna.

CHIACCHIERE

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 83
Martedì Grasso

Sferette di Ricotta the zest of 1/2 the other orange and Knead the flour with the egg yolks,
Skill Level Easy heat it with the honey, but don’t bring grappa, wine, 1/4 cup powdered sugar,
Time 1 hour + 1 hour of resting to a boil. Remove from the heat and butter and milk. When the dough is still
let steep until the recipe calls for it. a bit rough, flavor with the grated zest
INGREDIENTS FOR 80 PIECES Shape the ricotta mixture into 11/2” of 1 lemon and continue to knead until
spheres and place them on a tray. smooth and evenly combined. Cover
14 oz. sheep milk ricotta Pour enough peanut oil into a pan and chill for 2 hours.
11 oz. honey to cover the balls when frying and heat. Pour enough peanut oil into a pan
9 oz. primo sale cheese Dust with a handful of semolina, fry to cover when frying.
11/4 cups remilled durum wheat until nicely golden and drain on paper Roll out the dough into paper-thin
1 cup semolina towels. Dip in the orange-scented sheets, cut into small rectangles, then
2
⁄3 cup granulated sugar honey and serve on a plate. cut a slit into the top of each and fry for
4 large egg yolks 1 minute. Drain the chiacchiere on paper
2 oranges towels. When dry, dust with powdered
1/4 tsp. saffron Chiacchiere sugar and serve immediately.
baking powder
aquavit – peanut oil Skill Level Intermediate
Time 50 minutes + 2 hours of resting
Let the ricotta and primo sale drain Vegetarian
Fritellone
for 30 minutes on a plate covered with del Luna Park
a layer of paper towels to absorb the INGREDIENTS FOR 4
excess liquid. Then vigorously whisk Skill Level Intermediate
the ricotta with the sugar until it forms 4 cups all-purpose flour Time 1 hour
a creamy foam. 2
⁄3 cup whole milk + 1 hour and 20 minutes for rising
Crumble the primo sale into fine pieces 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Vegetarian
and grate the zest of one orange. In a 2 Tbsp. white wine
mixing bowl, combine the primo sale, 2 Tbsp. grappa INGREDIENTS FOR 8
egg yolks, saffron, orange zest, 1 Tbsp. 2 large egg yolks
aquavit, semolina and 1/2 tsp. baking powdered sugar 21/2 cups all-purpose flour
powder. Cover and refrigerate for lemons 1 cup whole milk
30 minutes. In the meantime, grate peanut oil 1 cup bread flour
7 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup granulated sugar
4 tsp. fresh brewer’s yeast
1 vanilla bean pod
FRITELLONE DEL peanut oil
Frittellone
LUNA PARK del Luna Park, or lime
Amusement Park Fritters, salt
are also popular at
Carnival, a cousin of Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise,
those pillowy fried fun fair
treats you likely know
scrape out the seeds and dissolve them
and love. in the milk. Add the pod and the grated
zest of 1 lime and let the milk infuse for
10 minutes before removing the pod.
In a bowl, mix the flours then add
the sugar and crumbled yeast. Pour
in the flavored milk and start to knead,
gradually adding the butter in pieces
and 11/2 tsp. salt. Knead the dough until
it pulls away from the sides of the bowl
and your hands, becoming more elastic
and less sticky.
Shape the dough into a ball, place
it in a bowl, cover with a damp cloth
and let rise for 1 hour. Finally, divide the
dough into pieces, knead them briefly
and shape into small balls. Cover with a
damp cloth and let them rest for 20 more
minutes. Flatten the balls and stretch
them out like small pizzas. Fry in plenty
of peanut oil for 4-5 minutes, turning
often. Drain on paper towels, then dunk
and cover in granulated sugar while still
hot. Eat immediately.

84 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Ciambelline
are the Italian
take on donuts. Though
available year-round,
many bakeries pull out all
the stops and offer an
array of of options
come Carnival.

Ciambelline Glassate
Skill Level Advanced
Time 1 hour and 30 minutes
Vegetarian

INGREDIENTS FOR 12

FOR THE CIAMBELLINE

1 cup flour
3 oz. unsalted butter
2 oz. milk
2 oz. large egg whites
2 tsp. granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 vanilla bean pod
bergamot
peanut oil
salt
FOR THE GLAZE
1 cup powdered sugar
3 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. bergamot juice
2 tsp. milk

Melt the butter in a saucepan with the Transfer the dough to a pastry bag
milk, 3/4 cup of water, the sugar and fitted with an open star tip around
a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then 1/2” in diameter. Cut out 12 squares
remove the pan from the heat and add of parchment paper, 5”each, and
all the flour at once. Return the pan to draw a ring of dough on each one.
the stove and cook, stirring vigorously Fry in plenty of hot oil, dropping
until the mixture pulls away from the them in face down, still attached
sides of the pan. to the parchment paper square.
Remove from the heat and let Cook them until you can remove
it cool for at least 10 minutes. the paper with tongs, then flip the
Transfer to a stand mixer, add the ciambelline to fry them evenly until
seeds of 1/2 vanilla bean pod, then mix golden all over (2-3 minutes). Remove
the eggs in well one at a time to make and place them on paper towels to dry.
a soft dough. FOR THE GLAZE
Beat the egg whites into stiff peaks and Mix the powdered sugar with
add to the dough along with the grated the honey, bergamot or lemon
zest of half a bergamot. Let rest for juice and milk to create the glaze.
10 minutes. Drizzle it over the donuts and serve.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 85
Martedì Grasso

Bignole alla
crema are cream-
filled beignets that are
also known as castagnole
or, in Milan, tortelli. They’re
also offered with various
fillings including chocolate,
Nutella, jam, zabione,
chantilly and more.

BIGNOLE ALLA
CREMA

86 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 FUSI DI POLENTA

We created these
treats especially for the
occasion, looking to
Northern Italy’s traditions for
inspiration. They’re also a
nifty way to make use of
any leftover polenta.

Bignole alla Crema Cover with a damp cloth and let rest 5 oz. raisins
for 1 hour in a warm place. Fry small 1 cup all-purpose flour
Skill Level Intermediate spoonfuls of the mixture in plenty of hot 1 cup granulated sugar
Time 1 hour and 10 minutes oil, continuously stirring the small pastry 3 large eggs
+ 1 hour of resting puffs that form until they become airy. 1 apple – lemon
Vegetarian Drain on paper towels and let cool. baking powder
FOR THE CREAM chestnut honey
INGREDIENTS FOR 50 PIECES Heat the milk with a vanilla bean pod liqueur such as
opened lengthwise. Beat the egg yolks Grand Marnier
FOR THE BIGNOLE with the sugar and the cornstarch. When peanut oil – salt
2 cups all-purpose flour the milk reaches a boil, pour it through
1/2 cup milk a strainer into the egg yolks and stir. Put Prepare the polenta: bring 1 quart
2
⁄3 cup powdered sugar the mixture back on the stove and cook, of water to a boil, add salt, then
1 large egg stirring for 3-4 minutes until it thickens. add the cornmeal and cook, stirring,
1 large egg yolk Let the cream cool, then transfer it to for 35 minutes. Remove from heat and
dried brewer’s yeast a pastry bag with a small tip. Gently allow the polenta to cool completely.
peanut oil – salt insert the piping tip to make a hole Soak the raisins in water for 15 minutes.
FOR THE CREAM in the pastry and fill with the cream. Weigh exactly 28 oz. of the polenta,
1 cup milk purée it and then add the sugar, eggs,
4 Tbsp. granulated sugar peeled and chopped apples, grated
2 Tbsp. corn starch Fusi di Polenta zest of 1/2 lemon, raisins, 2 Tbsp.
2 large egg yolks Grand Marnier, 2 tsp. baking powder
1 vanilla bean pod Skill Level Easy and the flour.
Time 1 hour and 20 minutes Stir the ingredients together and
FOR THE BIGNOLE + 1 hour and 10 minutes of resting let the mixture rest for 30 minutes.
Mix 1 tsp. baking powder with the flour, Vegetarian Press it between two spoons to form
then add the milk, egg and 1 egg yolk spindle-shaped quenelles and drop into
and start to blend. Add the powdered INGREDIENTS FOR 60 PIECES plenty of hot oil to fry. Cook for about
sugar and a pinch of salt. Combine until 3 minutes, then drain on paper towels.
you have a smooth, creamy mixture. 7 oz. yellow cornmeal Serve with a drizzle of chestnut honey.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 87
 Heritage

Milena Cavaggioni at
home in her Padua
kitchen.

JOY
88 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
A
KITCHEN
FULL
OF
 Pearà, a traditional Veronese
gravy, adds a soft, flavorful
touch to bollito
by LAURA FORTI, photography JACOPO SALVI

W
e traveled to the Veneto re-
gion to listen to the culi-
nar y memories of Mile -
na Cavaggioni, a beloved
grandmother of 12 and
great-grandmother of two.
Milena, now 88, has lived in Padua since her wed-
ding, though she was raised in Verona, where she
inherited her mother and grandmother’s passion
for the city’s culinary traditions. For our visit, she
prepared pearà, a traditional recipe from Verona.
This “poor man’s gravy” was originally made from
broth and breadcrumbs only. After cooking for a few
hours, the two ingredients form a thick sauce that
adds a softer touch to bollito (a traditional Northern
Italian preparation for meat) — particularly meats
that dry out when boiled. Over time, pearà’s humble
ingredients were joined by pepper (from which it
takes its name), beef marrow and, in some recipes,
grated grana, which transforms it into an exquisite
sauce. “The secret is still the broth, which you need
to cook with a bit of bone,” explains Milena, who
can whip one together with her eyes closed. “If you
use a good, hearty broth you don’t even need the
marrow. I don’t use it, myself.” As for the cake? It’s
a family recipe, one that’s simple but scrumptious
if you choose the right apples. “My mother would
make a special trip to Zevio, where the area’s best
orchards were, to buy Dezi. They were hard to find
back then, and grown by only a few farmers. So fra-
grant and sweet — I’ve never forgotten them.” This Beef Bollito with Pearà
type of apple, also known as Decio, Deso and Dezo,
is typical of the Veneto, where it has been known Place the beef in a pot full of cold water with its bones; celery and
since Roman times. carrots that have been trimmed and halved; and a peeled onion. Bring
to a boil and cook for around 2 hours. Once the meat is done, pour
3 ladlefuls of its broth into a saucepan, bring to a boil, add 5 Tbsp.
breadcrumbs, stir until creamy and simmer for around 20 minutes. For
the finishing touch, add 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, salt to taste, 1½
tsp. ground pepper and, if desired, grated grana. Let the sauce cook
for another 30 minutes over a low flame and serve with the meat.

Ingredients for 6-8

2 lb. boneless beef, 2 carrots, 1 celery stalk, 1 onion, 1 beef bone,
breadcrumbs, grana, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper

Torta Petronilla
Crack the eggs into the sugar and whisk together until slightly frothy.
Gradually add the flour, then the milk. Flavor with the grated lemon
zest. Pour the batter into a greased and floured cake pan. Peel the
apples, slice them into thin pieces and spread on top of the batter.
Sprinkle with a little sugar and bake at 350°F for around 30 minutes.

Ingredients
11/2 cup all-purpose flour, 3/4 cup sugar, 3 medium apples,
2 large eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 cup milk, unsalted butter

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 89
 Om

FOOD FOR THE

SOUL

No phone, no TV, no mini-bar, no Wi-Fi. These are added comforts

at a luxury hermitage in Umbria where you can refresh your spiritual self.
Fiammetta Fadda, on assignment, shares her experience
photography MATTEO CARASSALE

The Location The Promise

Eremito, the Hotelito del Alma, meaning “little hotel of the A wondrous restoration of the self by switching off the daily
soul,” graces the woods in the heart of a 37,400-acre natural background noise that distracts us both from ourselves and
reserve in Umbria, the land where St. Francis of Assisi others. Monks are masters of this, and 500 monasteries
communed with Brother Wolf and Sister Water. The Chiani in Italy welcome those who wish to commune with God.
River flows below, and deer and wild boar inhabit the forest. Eremito, a member of the Design Hotels collection, is a
Parrano, the closest village, is six miles away. With no planes secular hermitage, a place for spiritual detox. In 2016, the
flying overhead anywhere nearby, the sky is an enchanting property garnered coveted awards and distinctions from
expanse of stars and clouds. Tatler, Condé Nast Traveller, GeoSaison and SpaFinder.

90 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
An exquisite breakfast: all the
ingredients come from local
artisans or organic farms; the
ceramics are a specialty of
the nearby village of Ficulle.
Left, Hotelito del Alma from
the nearby hillside — fourteen
rooms surrounded by woods.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 91
Om

Friday
24 NOVEMBER, 8:00 A.M. – OUR DEPARTURE
I meet with Matteo Carassale, the photographer. Our 4x4 is
powerful but so is the traffic heading out of Milan. By 1:00 p.m.
we’re in Fabro, the little neck of the Umbrian woods where
we’ll be spending the weekend. Following the Hotelito’s in-
structions, we notify them that we’re about to turn onto the
road along the river and then stop at the large oak tree from
where we’re supposed to be guided the rest of the way. After
a 20-minute wait, we resort to our hyperactive Milanese de-
meanors, switching on our GPS to venture toward the destina-
tion on our own. The 4x4 does its duty. We make our way up-
hill — the woods are golden and the silence enveloping. Even
more than the location, we’re curious about Marcello Murzilli,
its founder and owner who ended up here after living various
lives. His first life: an unenthusiastic student in Rome, a hippy
in 1970s London and a curious traveler in Mexico, where he has
the idea of importing El Charro belts to Italy. The second: he
sells everything, reconditions a 70-foot cutter and sails around
the world for two years. The third: nature inspires him to create
a new kind of hotel on Mexico’s Pacific coast that’s powered
by solar energy, illuminated by candles and furnished with the
colors of Frida Kahlo — a place to be found only in children’s
adventure stories. In front, beaches as far as the eye can see
while the jungle stretches behind. Once the celebrities catch
wind of Hotelito Desconocido, they flock to it in droves — it’s
now considered an eco-resort, a term that didn’t exist in 2000.
Murzilli decides to sell it and ventures off to find a silent retreat
where he can let nature lighten his load, cast off the old and
superfluous, and treat himself to the ultimate luxury: starting
afresh. He began his search ten years ago.

Fast facts: Umbria? OUR ARRIVAL

Eremito overlooks the valley, carved out of living stone with a
Where: The region of Umbria DOCG is a structured, tannic monastery door standing in the middle of its surrounding wall.
is landlocked in Central Italy red wine that can last for We pull the cord and Marcello Murzilli emerges — tall, lean,
between Lazio, Tuscany and several years in the bottle. bearded and smiling, as befits a modern-day hermit. Inside are
Le Marche. Sangiovese also flourishes a refectory and a common area with a fireplace, tatamis and
Eat: Believe it or not, the here and is the dominant cushions. All 20 celluzze, 30 square-feet each, have a wrought
terrain of Umbria is rich varietal in the Torgiano Rosso iron bed made up in bedding crafted from white hand-made
with truffles — savor them Riserva DOCG. hemp yarn, a desk carved from stone adjacent to the window,
with pasta. Also, lentils from Buy: Pick up some strangozzi a carafe of water, a sink with a mortar as a basin and a rain
Castelluccio are arguably pasta, long rectangular noo- shower head. My celluzza is named Pachomius. A saint? “No, a
the best in Italy. Tiny and dles typical of Umbria that hermit, like all the rooms’ namesakes. They’re devoted to sol-
delicate, though rich in flavor, pair well with ragù, tomato itary meditation that can lead to spiritual elevation,” explains
they cook quickly and don’t sauce and, of course, truffles. the owner. Trusting his intuition — “It’s never let me down,”
require soaking. Try them While you might not (legally) he says — he spent two years visiting monasteries and meet-
in a variety of dishes, such be able to carry the jewels of ing with visionaries. One day, he found himself standing before
as a hearty soup. the forest back with you, you what was once ruins amid a sea of green and said to himself,
Speak Umbro: A local can purchase some foodstuffs “This is it.” Only two other guests are here right now. One of
proverb Sono finiti i prosciutti with them, like infused oil, them is a beautiful young woman of Mexican origin, as spiri-
anche a Sorbo, translates to sauces and spreads, to take tual as a madonna.
“even Sorbo has run out of home.
prosciutto.” This is a way of 7:30 P.M. – WE SUP IN SILENCE
saying that everything even- A bell announces dinner. Three young women have arrived
tually comes to an end, even for a seminar with the guru of solo travel, an expert in every-
the funds of the wealthy, like thing there is to know before, during and after a journey on
those of Sorbo, a rich pro- one’s own — starting with the reason for taking it. Murzilli
sciutto maker who eventually fully understands this feeling, having lived in a tent with his
went out of business. dog Peppo for two years while he was building the Hotelito
Sip: Montefalco Sagrantino alongside a master stone sculptor and a handful of craftsmen.
More about Umbria at www.lacucinaitaliana.com “I didn’t know what I’d be capable of doing, but the pursuit
intrigued me.” Which was wise because it seems there ➝

92 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Leek Risotto
Enzo, the cook, starts work at 6:00 a.m.
every day, arriving from nearby Parrano
to make breakfast and get a head start
on lunch and dinner. There’s a lot to
do, because four courses are served at
both the afternoon and evening meals.
What’s more, it’s vegetarian cooking,
so it takes imagination and skill to add
variety to the flavors. This recipe is one
of his favorites. “I’ve already made
a broth from our garden vegetables.
I mince the inner layers of a leek, setting
a couple of the green ones aside. I sauté
the minced leek in a bit of butter and
add the rice, calculating three handfuls
per person. Carnaroli provides just the
right tenderness. I toast the rice, stirring
it with a wooden spoon, then douse
it with a good quality dry white wine.
Once it evaporates I add ladlefuls of
broth, without stirring it too often, to
avoid breaking up the grains of rice.
Then I flavor it with saffron and salt to
taste. Removing it from the heat, I add
a handful of grated grana. I use ring
Opposite: each
celluzza has a desk molds to shape the rice, then decorate
carved from stone with it with a bit of julienned leek and
a view of the landscape. a sprinkle of grana.”
Bottom left: the herbs
are just steps away from
the kitchen. Bottom
right: the green grassy
entrance.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 93
Om

are 500 million people in the world who want to travel alone.
A fireplace and candles illuminate the refectory, where we
sit down to eat at long wooden tables topped with earthen-
ware dishes made by artisans from nearby Ficulle. Calming
Gregorian chants disrupt our order of silence. The food arrives:
chickpea purée, pumpkin patties and pears cooked in red wine,
the same locally made, slightly sweet wine we’re drinking. Is
there any white? No, because they make a concerted effort not
to seem like a hotel. Two young Norwegians from WWOOF, a
movement that arranges for young people to work on organ-
ic farms in exchange for accommodation, distribute our food.
Wooden beams, carved stone, the table, the clink of cutlery,
stolen glances — mystical, and even somehow erotic. We begin
to sense the sacredness of the food, realizing a relaxing getaway
doesn’t necessarily have to be on a beach in the Caribbean.

Saturday
7:30 A.M. – WE MEDITATE
Those who wish to may make their way up to the turret for
15 minutes of guided spiritual readings: a page from the Old
and New Testaments, the Zohar and words of the saints.
Then an hour of gentle yoga to continue the meditation in
motion. At 9:00 a.m., the bell chimes to announce breakfast.
Laid out on the long, wooden monk’s table are homemade
Clockwise, Enzo, the
cakes, cookies, almond biscotti, sliced tomatoes seasoned
cook, makes the day’s with oregano, oranges with pomegranate seeds, locally made
bread. His friendship with ricotta, goat cheese, walnuts, quince marmalade, honey,
Marcello Murzilli dates dried fruit and scrumptious homemade bread. We’re allowed
back to their school years; to chat while we eat.
two plump monks watch
over and admire the table
set for lunch; cornflake
cookies.

94 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 A dish of cooked and raw
garden vegetables.

It’s sunny but we find ourselves wishing for fog and cold during
our walk up to the top of the hill and down to the river. Our total
silence is interspersed by two distracting sounds: on the out-
side, the ground crunching beneath our feet and on the inside,
the thoughts whirling around in our heads.

12:30 P.M. – THE VEGETABLE GARDEN IS SERVED

The Hotelito is fully booked. The latest arrivals are regu-
lars from Milan, a few visitors curious about “humble lux-
ury,” a young graduate in cultural anthropology who works
for UNESCO, plus a well-dressed, spiritual young man from
Brussels who walks the Camino de Santiago ten days each
year — tomorrow he’s traveling to Orvieto on foot. We’re also
allowed to chat at noon. Groups of euphoric guests gather for
lunch. The cook has prepared a fennel and orange salad, leek
risotto, baked cheese and beetroot pie and semifreddo al mas-
carpone — all homemade and served in generous portions, like
a proper Italian Sunday supper. It’s a vegetarian lunch that is
every bit a delight — in fact, it brings to mind The Duke’s Table:
The Complete Book of Vegetarian Italian Cooking with its 1,030
“formulas” — that is, recipes — by Enrico Alliata, Duke of
Salaparuta, published in 2013.
Enzo, the hotel cook, tends the vegetable garden and the
greenhouse, chops wood for the fireplace and environmental-
ly friendly heating. But he’s also skilled with his pastries and
makes delicious bread, soups and cheeses, drawing inspiration
from conventual cookbooks — including La cucina dei Papi,
an encyclopedia of healthy eating with secret recipes from ab-
beys and monasteries fit for a Pope — and compiling his own
recipe notebook, in which you can read about specialties like
Martina’s crostata, his ciambellone, plum marmalade and wild
fennel liqueur. garden. For a hermitage, the dinner laid out on the table be-
fore us is a banquet — in times past, the friar cook might have
2:00 P.M. – SIESTA IN THE CELLUZZA served a bowl of vegetable broth, little more than water and a
The rule: 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. is siesta, a time to rest, contem- few mouthfuls of stale bread. We head to the common room af-
plate the silence or read in your celluzza. Those who don’t wish ter dinner, where there is little light, but dozens of candles, an
to do so must respect the stillness of the others. Or, if they can’t invitation to share our impressions and emotions rather than
— since silence is often accompanied by a certain degree of isolating ourselves in reading — though this hotel is popular
restlessness — they can head down to the river or visit Parrano, among solo travelers. Or lovebirds, I think, since all the cel-
four miles on foot, seven by car, a magnificent 14th-century luzze have only wide-single beds and there are more couples
hamlet with a castle that once belonged to the Papal State, or than single guests. We sip our cups of melemito, an infusion of
Ficulle, a town dating back to the 11th century that’s famous herbs and honey, the hermitage’s trademark beverage. Going
for its pottery. out onto the terrace suspended over the vast darkness of the
The time to socialize is 5:00 p.m. Guests, bundled in robes valley now almost feels like leaving the earth behind and ven-
with cowl-like hoods, are soothed by Gregorian chants as they turing into an aquatic element in which impressions come to
walk in a procession down the narrow hallway toward the you slower yet more fully.
warmth of the rock-hewn pool or steam bath, perhaps followed
by an ice-cold shower. Sunday
WE SAY GOODBYE
7:30 P.M. – CHICORY AND MELEMITO A bold sky, a mix of clouds, rain and sunshine. While the oth-
The menu: pan-fried cabbage, chickpea and chestnut soup, ers meditate and practice yoga, we go for a stroll before leav-
sautéed chard and potatoes and stewed apples. Cooking of im- ing. But this is enough to make me realize that my stiff, tense
peccable simplicity. Not dishes but stories, tales, silence; rec- shoulders have relaxed and my breathing is freer and deeper
ipes that come to us from a parallel world, the map to which now. Matteo is photographing the honey ring cake that’s just
has long been forgotten. Soups with herbs, chickpeas and come out of the oven for the morning meal. Speaking of which,
leeks, pizza with potatoes and fried broccoli, risotto with chic- you won’t be losing weight here. You’ll find new inspiration to
ory from the garden and pecorino and pancotto, a bread soup do so after you return, though, discovering to your delight that
with humble origins. We discover the ancient, subtle pleasure your newfound wellbeing leads from the spirit to the body. In
of not having to deal with the overwhelming selection typical five hours Matteo and I will once again be walking down gray
of an urban greengrocer. Winter is seeking perfect harmony city sidewalks, but we don’t let that stop us from making our
among ingredients like pumpkin, legumes, cabbage and dried way over the Umbrian hillsides carpeted with the amber leaves
beans, changing their flavor by adding a handful of wild fennel, and olive groves immortalized in the poems of Italian literary
a couple of bay leaves, sage and rosemary, all straight from the luminary Gabrielle D’Annunzio.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 95
 Fragrancy

text VALENTINA VERCELLI, photography GUIDO BARBAGELATA, styling BETTINA CASANOVA

BOTTLES
AND BOUQUETS
Mixed berries, yeasty bread, Mediterranean herbs...
Much of a wine’s charm lies in its aromas.
Choose the bouquet that beckons you

96 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 IT’S PARTY
TIME!
The bottle:
Franciacorta Brut Rosé
’61 Berlucchi.
The bouquet: Intense
aromas of berries dance
with subtler notes of red apple
and bread crust.
The occasion: A versatile
wine for everything from
an aperitivo to dinner. Choose
it for a toast with friends.
The pairings: Serve
it for an aperitivo with quiche
or with grissini and prosciutto
crudo, or for a romantic dinner
with shrimp cocktail and
baked salmon.
Look like a pro:
It’s a mix of pinot noir (60%)
and chardonnay (40%) that
matures sur lie for two years.
Website: berlucchi.it

WITH
FRIENDS
BY THE
FIREPLACE
The bottle: Brunello
di Montalcino Castel
Giocondo 2014 Frescobaldi.
The bouquet: Raspberries,
blackcurrants and blueberries
combine with scents of violets
to then move on to spices like
cinnamon and pepper. With
age, leather also emerges.
The occasion: A fine
dinner with friends, perhaps
in a mountain chalet.
The pairings: It’s a
wine with great structure that
needs dishes with the same
qualities: game, red meats,
aged cheeses.
Look like a pro:
After fermentation in stainless
steel vats, the sangiovese rests
for five years in wood.
Website: frescobaldi.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 97
Fragrancy

A TASTE
OF THE SEA
The bottle: Vermentino
di Gallura Superiore Monteoro
2018 Sella&Mosca.
The bouquet: Aromatic herbs,
berries, flowers, Mediterranean
shrubs and marine notes: the
scents of this Vermentino are
a tribute to Sardinia.
The occasion: From
aperitivo to dinner on the
beach (even) in winter.
The pairings: A fine
companion for seafood. Try
it with seafood risotto, shellfish
and baked fish. Superb with
spaghetti alla bottarga.
Look like a pro: After soft
pressing, it matures sur lie in
stainless steel for four months.
Website: sellaemosca.com

AN ODE
TO JOY
The bottle: Trento Brut
Perlé 2014 Ferrari.
The bouquet: The first aromas
are those of grapefruit and
fresh pineapple, but then come
honey, salted butter and a finish
of toast-like notes reminiscent of
coffee. Delicate, balanced and
elegant, you’ll be captivated by
its creamy perlage.
The occasion: Anytime you
feel like making a toast.
The pairings: A scrumptious
dinner or hearty aperitivo
complete with culatello, vitello
tonnato, canapés with salmon,
caviar and anchovies.
Look like a pro: This
mountain Chardonnay matures
sur lie for five years.
Website:
ferraritrento.com

98 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 99
100 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Fragrancy

THE
AMERICAN
DREAM
The bottle: Valdadige
Pinot Grigio 2018
Santa Margherita.
The bouquet: The clear
aromas of Golden Delicious
apples, pears and grapefruit
are joined by that of jasmine.
With the finish comes a touch
of ginger and salt.
The occasion: Informal
dinners and parties.
The pairings: First courses
featuring seafood, freshwater
fish, frittatas, fried vegetables
and delicate white meats.
Look like a pro: One of
the most famous Italian wines
in the United States, fermented
and aged in stainless steel
to preserve its delightful
freshness.
Website:
santamargherita.com

AIN’T SHE
SWEET?
The bottle: Moscato
d’Asti Primo Bacio 2019
Scagliola.
The bouquet:
Sage and rosemary are
joined by wisteria, linden and
orange blossoms, ripe white
fruits and citrus, including
bittersweet lemon.
The occasion:
An elegant finishing touch
to Sunday dinner.
The pairings: Pastries,
desserts with fruit or custard
or cream. Dare to pair it with
spicy ethnic food.
Look like a pro: This sweet,
sparkling wine is typical of
Piedmont. To produce it, the
must is fermented to 5% ABV
and then bottled.
Website:
scagliolavini.com

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 101

 Italians in America

by STEFANIA VIRONE VITTOR

photography EVAN SUNG

FROM ROME
TO NEW YORK,
ROUND
TRIP
T
How Francesco he beating hearts of two
of the world’s grand-
the worlds of cinema, television and
sports. In fact, it’s almost easier to men-
Panella, along with est cities — the animat- tion those who haven’t (yet) dined there.
ed neighborhoods of It all began four generations ago,
his brothers Simone Trastevere and Brooklyn when the former Vatican City customs
and Lorenzo, exported — have something (ap-
petizing) in common: the Panella broth-
post on Via Garibaldi, an old-school os-
teria at the time, became a full-fledged
Roman cuisine from the ers’ Roman-style cooking. Heirs of Anti- restaurant. The sixties saw the beginning
ca Pesa, the historic Roman restaurant of its gradual rise to success headed by
Italian capital’s historic established in 1922, Francesco, Simone Pietro Panella, a sociable restaurateur
Antica Pesa restaurant and Lorenzo took their culinary passion
across the ocean via an authentic menu
and forward-thinking art enthusiast. In
fact, the nine walls of the restaurant’s
to the Big Apple beloved by international celebrities from Sala Invernale (the Winter Dining Room

102 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Spaghetti cacio e pepe at
Antica Pesa Brooklyn keeps
to the traditional recipe.
Just after opening in the
U.S., Simone Panella
decided to import the
pasta-cooking water from
Italy, but the idea was soon
abandoned as it wasn’t
sustainable.
On the opposite page,
Francesco Panella.

complete with a striking fireplace) are dinner in lieu of an evening at Antica 78-year-old, remains in control of the
adorned with extraordinary paintings Pesa. Pertini loved lemon sorbet, so historic restaurant, Francesco Panella
created by his artist friends before they Simone decided to personally prepare is now the entrepreneurial symbol of
became famous. The works continue to the president’s dessert using freshly Roman and Italian dining abroad —
enliven the ambiance today. picked fruit from the garden. Francesco Italians know him from his television
Pietro’s friends also included former then volunteered to carry the tray — show Little Big Italy. Simone, instead, is
Italian President Sandro Pertini, who with his trembling hands — to their table the creative mind in the kitchen, balanc-
dined there with the King of Spain, Juan under the watch of his proud, yet slight- ing tradition and innovation. Together
Carlos, in 1982, just weeks after Italy de- ly amused father Pietro. This teamwork they have managed to renew enthusi-
feated West Germany to win the World by the 12- and 14-year-olds might have asm in the Trastevere restaurant, which
Cup. Spain had hosted the tournament, marked the turning point in what would continues to rise in popularity, winning
and Petrini and Juan Carlos decided become Antica Pesa’s current success. over lovers of Roman cuisine one dish
to pass up the traditional institutional While Pietro Panella, a lively at a time, including cacio e pepe ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 103

 Antica Pesa Brooklyn is
located in Williamsburg.
Executive chef Emanuele
Baldassari (right,
on the sofa with Francesco
Panella); under Simone
Panella’s direction from
Rome, he prepares the
seasonal menu. On the
left, trippa alla romana
with mint emulsion and
carta musica, and the
inside of the restaurant.

“ One night a big, bald man walked in, insisting on having dinner.
It was Russell Crowe, who’d come from the studio. After
40 minutes taking off his makeup, we had a meal together”
and saltimbocca alla romana (prosciut- beyond their national borders. Brooklyn in New York. It was a special
to-wrapped veal that’s been marinat- Francesco had already worked in the network predicting what was going to
ed in red wine). Three being a perfect United States. “There comes a time in happen in the United States and conse-
number, their younger brother Lorenzo the life of an entrepreneur when you un- quently in Europe. I realized it was time
joined the team to manage Antica Pesa derstand you need to do something dif- to change, to open this restaurant, which
in New York. In October 2012 the Panella ferent. For me that time came around ten is also a think-tank.”
family inaugurated their Williamsburg years ago, when I started spending time There are two ways to work in the
restaurant, and among the attend- with people in New York and California restaurant business: one is to stay in-
ees was then-mayor of New York Mike who are still great friends of mine. We side the comfort zone and follow trends,
Bloomberg and businessman James established a steady exchange of ideas and the other is to be strong enough to
Murdoch. The decision to open in the among our three neighborhoods: Silver be exactly who you are and let others
United States was unanimous, as the Lake in Los Angeles, the Mission District follow. Francesco Panella decided to be
family shared a strong desire to move in San Francisco and Williamsburg/ a driving force by sharing his family’s

104 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Italians in America

Antica Pesa’s Roman

heart beats strong in the
Panella family, whose
genuine cuisine has won
over celebrities and artists
in NYC. From left,
clockwise, Simone and
Francesco Panella at their
American debut;
Madonna in 2003
celebrating her daughter
Lourdes’s birthday; Pietro
Panella with his three
children in the 1980s; an
original 1989 drawing by
Keith Haring on Antica
Pesa letterhead; Sandro
Pertini dining at the Rome
restaurant in 1982.

philosophy. Within years Williamsburg Panella’s cuisine, created in Rome changes each season. While the fruit and
had become a fashionable district and through trusted executive chef Emanuele vegetable supplies are entrusted to small,
Francesco thought his new plans for a Baldassari. Considered a member of the local organic farms, the key ingredients
restaurant in NYC could soon become family, Baldassari began working with are perfectly Italian, such as the pasta
reality. In Manhattan’s Flower District the Panellas years ago, and having spent Mancini or Pecorino Romano Fulvi.
on Fifth Avenue, Feroce Ristorante & time abroad he was the perfect choice for Great attention is placed on the qual-
Bar, the Roman entrepreneur’s other es- the U.S. outpost. There’s a direct connec- ity of all the ingredients, which must be
tablishment, has been wildly successful. tion between Simone and Emanuele, be- faithful to their Italian origins, and it’s
Antica Pesa Brooklyn soon became tween Rome and New York. “We worked respect for cuisine and a love of Italy
a favorite among Italian food enthusi- together side by side for years. He knows that drives them even further. Francesco
asts. Hollywood stars have dropped in exactly what I want, gets my style and Panella admits he finds strength in the
to taste the pappa al pomodoro (bread perfectly understands the dishes at distance and, almost like a nostalgic lov-
PHOTO ARCH. ANTICA PESA

and tomato soup typical of Tuscany) and Antica Pesa Rome. It’s easier to work to- er, confesses that “Italy is like the girl-
trippa alla romana (braised tripe typical gether when you’re on the same wave- friend who broke your heart. You know
of Rome). Like in Rome, people were lin- length,” Simone explains. Baldassari is you’ll always love her, but you’ll never be
ing up to enjoy an experience with the his alter ego in the Williamsburg kitch- together again.”
Panellas, who welcomed everyone with en, and they Facetime every week to Maybe that’s why he continues to
genuine affection. share updates, discuss new proposals seek her out all around the world, and to
The two restaurants have many and study new dishes. The menu follows ardently defend and support her, even
things in common, starting from Simone in the Rome restaurant’s footsteps and overseas.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 105

 Morning Glory

WHITE WINE
COOKIES

Nosh-Up (BEFORE 3:00 P.M.)

Yes, we start our day with a cappuccino, but that doesn’t mean we don’t indulge
in the occasional grander take on the most important meal of the day
106 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 N
iko Romito is a superstar. The chef’s Reale
restaurant in Abruzzo, where he elevates lo-
cal culinary traditions to an art form, is one
of Italy’s ten three-star Michelin shrines. His
Spazio restaurants in Abruzzo, Rome and
Milan — entrusted to the care of chef Gaia Giordano — have
set a new benchmark for mid-range restaurant concepts.
Spazio Pane e Caffè in Rome, which opened in 2018, is
an exquisite place to fuel up in the morning. “Breakfast is
a special moment,”explains Giordano,“which brings me
back to the work my father Antonio did for 40 years in his
pastry shop in Rivisondoli.” In addition to a stellar cappuc-
cino and flawlessly baked goods, Spazio Pane e Caffè of-
fers seasonal fruit juices and savory breakfast dishes, such
as toast, eggs and cheese. Recreate one of Romito’s treats
at home with the following recipe.

Niko Romito’s White Wine Cookies

Skill Level Easy Time 25 minutes Vegetarian
INGREDIENTS – 1¾ cup, all-purpose flour,
1
⁄3 cup dry white wine, 1⁄3 cup seed oil, 1⁄3 cup sugar,
1 tsp. baking powder, brown sugar
Preheat the oven to 320°F. Combine white wine, oil and
sugar, then add the flour and baking powder to the mixture
until it forms a dough. Roll out the dough until 1⁄4” thick,
then cut into 1½” discs. Dip each cookie in brown sugar
then place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper
and bake for 7 to 8 minutes.

8:00 a.m.
TEXT SARA PORRO, PHOTO G. BRETZEL

BREAKFAST
When time permits,
we pair our morning Niko Romito and
cappuccino with a sweet Gaia Giordano
at Spazio Pane

breakfast pastry e Caffè in Rome.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 107

Morning Glory
The breakfast spread
at L’Aubergine
restaurant
at l’Auberge de
La Maison hotel
in Courmayeur.

10:00 a.m. LATE BREAKFAST

This elaborate spread is perfect for those
leisurely mornings when you can linger
at the table and sample myriad delights

108 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 APPLE
DOUGHNUTS
TEXT SARA TIENI, RECIPES JEAN MARC NEUVILLE, PHOTO D. LOVATTI, STYLING C. CARMANA

T
he Aosta Valley, Italy’s smallest region, sits in Jean Marc Neuville’s Apple
the Northwest, bordering France and Swit- Doughnuts
zerland — it’s just as delightful for a summer Skill Level Intermediate Time 45 minutes
mountain getaway as it is for a winter one. This
INGREDIENTS – 1 liter milk, 43⁄4 cups all-purpose flour,
cozy spread from the l’Auberge de La Maison
31⁄4 Tbsp. rice flour, 4 apples, peanut oil, salt
hotel in Courmayeur will let you hit the ground running
once you’ve had your fill. The Garin family oversees Combine the milk, rice flour and 4 cups flour in a bowl until
this19th-century chalet while chef Jean Marc Neuville it forms a smooth paste. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
helms L’Aubergine, the on-site restaurant with a view of Peel the apples and remove the cores, then turn sideways
Mont Blanc. Apple tart, polenta with cheese, crispy pota- and cut into thin slices, keeping the whole in the center
to balls and more keep guests satiated until lunch. Evoke (like a doughnut). Dip the apple slices into the remaining
these very vibes at home with this recipe for Neuville’s flour and then into the batter.
pillowy apple doughnuts. Fry the apple slices in hot oil, a few at a time, for 3-4 minutes,
or until golden. Drain the doughnuts and sprinkle with salt.
Serving tip: Plate the doughnuts with a salumi assortment.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 109

 COTOLETTA SBAGLIATA

1:00 p.m. BRUNCH

Italy loves this American
ritual that couples the best
of both worlds, offering
a dish for every taste

110 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Morning Glory

I
f chef Matteo Stefani is fa-
mous for one thing, it’s his
cotoletta sbagliata (“mistak-
en cutlet”) at Milan’s Anche
restaurant. Come Sunday,
his brunch prix fixe menu mixes the
sweet and the savory, and he’d
be remiss in not offering his crispy,
tender, fragrant cult cutlet. Stefani
knew it was impossible to make the
emblematic cotoletta alla milanese
with, as tradition dictates, veal at
his target price point, so he created
a sbagliata, or “mistaken” version
with pork — unsurprisingly, other
chefs have followed suit. To make
the recipe his own, he added a few
more deliberate “errors.” Here’s how
you can prepare Stefani’s beloved
mistake at home.

Matteo Stefani’s
Cotoletta Sbagliata
Skill Level Intermediate
Time 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
2½ oz. pork loin, 2 eggs,
beaten, salt,
clarified butter (enough to fry
the entire cutlet), oranges,
breadcrumbs, sliced almonds
Flatten and widen the pork loin
(first “mistake”) with a meat
PHOTO R. LETTIERI

tenderizer until it’s between

9”-10” in diameter, the shape
of an “elephant ear.”
Season the beaten eggs with
a pinch of salt and juice from
½ orange (second “mistake”).
Mix the breadcrumbs with
the sliced almonds (third
“mistake”). Dip the cutlet in the
beaten eggs two times, then in
the breadcrumbs and almonds
so that it’s coated in the mixture.
Fry the cutlet in the clarified
butter for a few minutes on each
side until it’s cooked through,
let dry and while still hot, spray
it with a spritz of orange juice.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 111

 Family Ties

THE
LUNELLI
FACTOR
The family behind Ferrari, one of Italy’s most
popular sparkling wine producers, on heritage,
rules and when to mix business with pleasure
by MADDALENA FOSSATI, photography GIACOMO BRETZEL

O
n a cold January morn- the president of the family’s real estate
ing, we arrive at Vil- holding company as well as the CEO of
la Margon to photo- Tenute Lunelli. This winery, also owned
graph the Lunelli fam- and operated by the family, produces
ily. Well, most of them, Auritea from Tuscany, a pure Cabernet
because we’re only the Franc, and Carapace from Umbria, the
middle generation is present. The chil- award-winning Montefalco Sagranti-
dren, eleven in total, ranging from 3 to no. Camilla, married to Stefano Rossi, is
15 years old, are at school. The aunts and the head of communications of the en-
uncles — four of the five remaining chil- tire company. Then there’s Alessandra,
dren of Bruno Lunelli, who in 1952 ac- whose mother is Carla (Bruno’s only
quired the wineries founded by Giulio daughter) married to Jean Louis a Bec-
Ferrari in 1902 — are keeping warm in- cara, and Chiara, Matteo’s sister, mar-
side their home. You can’t see the villa ried to Alberto Calvi di Coenzo. “Today
and its 15th-century frescoes from the there are only 12 of us, but during the
road, which is how the property, where holidays, there are more than 20. If our
the family holds all its celebrations, parents join, we’re usually more than
managed to remain untouched during 40,” says Camilla. After a great deal of
World War II. For three generations the chitchat, I come to learn that the whole
Lunelli family has been producing Fer- family gathers several times a year for
rari, arguably the world’s most popular special occasions other than Christ-
Trento DOC wine. Available in over 50 mas to enjoy dinner together. “We used
countries, Ferrari is poured at the Emmy to go to grandma Elda’s house (Bruno
Awards, and Barack Obama is also a fan. Lunelli’s wife) in the center of Trento,”
It’s the only Italian sparkler to have been Alessandro recalls. “Today we meet at
awarded 98 points in the Wine Advocate the Locanda [Locanda Margon, the Mi-
“bible” (Giulio Ferrari Rosé 2006), a rec- chelin-starred family restaurant] or at
ognition usually reserved for Cham- someone’s house or the villa. The tast-
pagne. “That was one of the greatest ings before Nonna Elda’s dinner were al-
milestones of my career, as was seeing ways special. Each aunt and uncle would
our reserve sparkling wine dedicated bring a few great bottles of Champagne
to Casa Italia gifted to Sergio Mattarel- or a rare wine from their travels. As chil-
la [Italy’s then president] during Expo dren, we couldn’t wait to grow up so we
2015,” says Matteo Lunelli, president of could share that moment, too.” From left, Chiara Lunelli, Jean
Cantine Ferrari since 2011. But first, let’s Camilla adds, “We also enjoy these Louis a Beccara, Roberta and
properly introduce the family. There’s, tastings a few days before the harvest, Marcello Lunelli, Stefano Rossi,
of course, Matteo with his wife Valen- when we meet to speak with the share- Silvia Lunelli and Alberto Calvi
di Coenzo. Seated, Alessandra,
tina. Then there’s Marcello, who man- holders, which is basically all of us
Valentina, Matteo, Camilla
ages production, and his wife Roberta. again, or while on holiday in Sardinia, and Alessandro Lunelli.
Alessandro is married to Silvia, and is or enjoying the snow in the ➝

112 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 113
Family Ties

Brenta Dolomites.” The Lunellis see Montaigne once said, “Governing a Chiacchiere fritters,
each other often, both in the small com- family is only slightly less complicat- known locally
pany kitchen or to enjoy a creamy risot- ed than ruling a kingdom,” but the as crostoli. Below:
to and Perlé Rosé at Locanda Margon. Lunellis immediately refute this point. Strangolapreti,
a type of gnocchi
Whoever organizes the dinner is also “Surely our serenity is directly con- made from spinach
responsible for the table and the menu. nected to the covenants that our aunts and stale bread.
Today it’s Roberta’s turn, helped by her and uncles sanctioned a long time ago.
mother-in-law Giuliana, who has pro- Rules must be established before there
posed vintage Hermès tableware. The is even a need to apply them,” Matteo
pieces clash somewhat but the fact that says. Rules govern relations between
they are so dainty and rare eventually the company and the family to protect
prevails. A centerpiece was chosen with both. Prospective employees must meet
a just few thoughtfully placed flowers — certain requirements: a college degree,
after all, it’s the middle of winter — and experience abroad, good English and
traditional local dishes are served, all knowledge of another language is al-
rustic, but elegantly presented. We get ways a plus. Husbands and wives are
ready to take the picture — quickly, due not both permitted to work for the com-
to the bitter cold. pany in order to avoid complications
It’s a beautiful day, Monte Bondone from a potential separation. And the
frames the villa and our cast of char- results are clear: the numbers are grow-
acters. Everyone is cheerful, joking ing, long-term projects are planned and
and commenting through chattering they’ve set their sight on the distant
teeth. They seem more like a group of horizon. “A united family guarantees
friends than relatives. Are they reciting we’ll be able to plan a future for the
a script? Nope. The French philosopher generations to come.”

WHAT’S IN A NAME?
Strangolapreti
Strangolapreti: alla trentina
This typical Trento pasta
translates to “priest stranglers.” Skill Level Intermediate
Dating back to the Council Time 30 minutes + 3 hours of resting
of Trent, the name refers to the Vegetarian
gluttonous clergymen who
would eat so much of it that INGREDIENTS FOR 4
they would choke.
1 lb. crustless stale bread, diced
8 oz. spinach leaves
2
⁄3 cup milk
1 small onion, minced
1
⁄3 cup flour
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 large eggs
sage
grated Trentingrana
salt

Combine the bread, milk and eggs

and mix, then cover with a towel and
let rest for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
Rinse and blanch the spinach in a large
pot of salted water, then let cool.
Mince and sauté it with the butter and
onion, then add it to the bread mixture.
Stir in 3/4 cup grated Trentingrana
and the flour. Let rest another hour.
Shape into large oval gnocchi
and cook in salted water for a few
minutes, removing and draining
them once they float.
Plate then sprinkle with Trentingrana,
drizzle on melted butter and fried sage.

114 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Seated from the left:
Alessandra Cirolini Lunelli,
Stefano Rossi, Silvia Lunelli,
Alberto Calvi di Coenzo,
Valentina Lunelli.
And again: Chiara, Camilla
and Roberta. Standing:
Jean Louis a Beccara
and Matteo, Marcello
and Alessandro Lunelli.

“Rules are made before there’s any need to apply them,

and they’re key to maintaining our relationships within
the family and between the family and the business.”
LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 115
 Award-Worthy Eats

SPAGHETTI WITH
LAMB AND CUMIN RAGÙ

LEEK AND CARROT SOUP

Starry
Starry
FRENCH TOAST
Night
recipes JOËLLE NÉDERLANTS, text VALENTINA VERCELLI and SARA MAGRO,
photography FEDERICO MILETTO, styling SERENA GROPPO

Nursing a case of the post-awards-season blues? Roll out the red carpet for some guests

116 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 THE BULLDOG COCKTAIL

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY
CROSTATA

TIMBALLO
DI MACCHERONI

with these six dashing dishes inspired by the silver screen

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 117

Award-Worthy Eats

The Bulldog Cocktail the mixture, once on each side, and

Timballo di Maccheroni
Darkest Hour (2017) immediately place it in a large, hot skillet Big Night (1996)
Prime Minister Winston with a bit of melted butter. In the film co-directed
Churchill, who was Brown on both sides. Remove and serve by Campbell Scott and
known as the “British immediately with a sprinkle of sugar or, Stanley Tucci, the only
Bulldog,” is portrayed if desired, with honey or maple syrup. thing standing between
by Gary Oldman. His two Italian brothers
drink of choice was and bankruptcy is
whisky with a touch of their timballo.
vermouth and Cynar.
Leek and Carrot Soup
Ratatouille (2007) Skill Level Advanced
Skill Level Easy The dish prepared by Time 6 hours
Time 5 minutes the little mouse Rémy
in this Disney cartoon INGREDIENTS FOR 6
INGREDIENTS FOR 1 DRINK wins the praises of
food critic Anton FOR THE FILLING
1 oz. whisky Ego, catapulting the 14 oz. tomato purée
1 oz. white vermouth restaurant to success. 3/4 lb. lean pork
1 oz. Cynar 3/4 lb. lean beef
Skill Level Easy 12 oz. maccheroni
In a shaker, mix the whisky, white Time 1 hour and 15 minutes 7 oz. aged provola, diced
vermouth and Cynar with a bit of ice. Vegetarian 3 oz. pancetta
Serve on the rocks. 1 large egg
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 4 large eggs, hard-boiled
1 onion
11/2 lb. peeled potatoes tomato paste
French Toast 3 large carrots, trimmed flour – red wine
Kramer vs. Kramer 2 medium leeks, trimmed parsley
(1979) 1 medium onion, peeled fresh rosemary
Dustin Hoffman plays 4 oz. fresh cream fresh thyme
a bumbling single cubed bread extra-virgin olive oil
father. For him, even dry white wine peanut oil
French toast seems extra-virgin olive oil salt – pepper
like an insurmountable unsalted butter – salt FOR THE TOP CRUST
challenge at first. 21/2 cups flour
Cut the leeks and onions into thin 5 oz. butter
Skill Level Easy slices and combine in a pot with 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
Time 15 minutes 3 Tbsp. oil and a pinch of salt. 2 large egg yolks – salt
Vegetarian Cover and then simmer. Remove the lid,
allow the liquid to evaporate and douse FOR THE FILLING
INGREDIENTS FOR 8 PIECES with 1/4 cup white wine. Mince the pancetta and onion
Dice the carrots and potatoes, cover separately, then brown for 5 minutes in
2
⁄3 cup milk with water and cook for 40 minutes, a saucepan with 3 Tbsp. oil, 1 rosemary
8 slices white bread gradually adding around 2 liters of sprig and a few thyme leaves.
4 large eggs water as it evaporates. Then, purée it Add the 2 pieces of whole meat and
unsalted butter – syrup together with the cream, salting to taste. brown them on both sides over a high
sugar, honey or maple Melt some butter in a frying pan and flame for 5-6 minutes. Add 1/2 cup red
brown the bread cubes into crispy wine, let simmer for a few minutes,
Beat the eggs and milk together. croutons. then add the tomato purée and 2 Tbsp.
Quickly dip each slice of bread into Serve the soup with the croutons. tomato paste and cover.

118 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

Cook for 2 hours and 30 minutes. Then Skill Level Easy Vegetarian
remove the lid and continue cooking Time 50 minutes
for 1 hour and 30 minutes. Let cool. INGREDIENTS FOR 6
Setting aside the tomato sauce, remove INGREDIENTS FOR 4
the meat, cut it into pieces and grind FOR THE PIE CRUST
together with 1 egg and 1 Tbsp. minced 3/4 lb. spaghetti 12⁄3 cup flour
parsley, adding salt and pepper to taste. 14 oz. tomato purée 5 oz. unsalted butter, diced
Shape into walnut-sized balls and pour 12 oz. boneless lamb 2
⁄3 cup sugar
enough peanut oil into a pan to cover 1 small onion 4 tsp. almond flour
when frying. 1 crushed, unpeeled garlic 1 Tbsp. cocoa
Roll them in the flour and fry for clove 1 large egg
1 minute. Drain on paper towels. cumin – mint salt
Boil the maccheroni, draining it parsley FOR THE FILLING
3-4 minutes prior to the time indicated red wine 10 oz. fresh cream
on the package, then cover with the extra-virgin olive oil 8 oz. dark chocolate
tomato sauce. salt – pepper 8 oz. raspberries
FOR THE TOP CRUST 4 oz. blackberries
Combine the butter, flour, sugar and Thinly slice the lamb, then cut into
a pinch of salt into a sandy mixture. Mix small pieces and tenderize with a knife. FOR THE PIE CRUST
it with 2 egg yolks and 2 Tbsp. water. Mince the onion and let sweat in Combine the flour, sugar, cocoa,
Shape it into a smooth ball, cover and a saucepan with a drizzle of oil almond flour and a pinch of salt with
let rest for 1 hour. and the garlic clove. the butter to make a crumbly mixture.
FOR THE TIMBALLO Add the meat and a pinch of cumin. Scoop it into a mound and mix in a
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Once browned, douse as desired with whole egg and 1 tsp. water.
Cut the hard-boiled eggs into wedges. a splash of red wine, then add the Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and
Roll the dough out until it’s paper tomato purée and salt, and cook for let rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
thin and use it to line a greased 8” 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Roll the
hemisphere mold. In it, layer the Pepper to taste and season with dough out until it’s paper thin and use it
maccheroni, the hard-boiled eggs, minced mint and parsley. to line an 8” shallow fluted pie pan with
the meatballs and the provola, and top Boil the spaghetti and serve it with the a removable bottom.
with another layer of maccheroni. ragù, garnishing with parsley and mint, Cover the dough with parchment paper
Fold over the edges of the dough a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of fresh and fill with pie weights or dried beans
and gently press down to even its ground pepper. Bake the crust on its own for 25-30
surface. Bake for around 1 hour. minutes, then remove the beans and
Let the timballo cool slightly in its mold, paper, and let cool.
then turn upside-down onto a platter Chocolate Raspberry FOR THE FILLING
and serve. Break the chocolate into pieces, melt it
Crostata in a double-boiler, simmering low.
Waitress (2007) Add the cream and let the ganache
Spaghetti with Lamb At Joe’s Pie Diner, stand at room temperature until it begins
Jenna is the team’s most to thicken. Then spread it in the crust and
and Cumin Ragù creative pastry chef. top with raspberries and blackberries.
The Post (2017) Every day she creates
When Tom Hanks new pies that win the
invites the Washington heart of the audience
Post’s editors for dinner and her doctor.
to discuss publishing
the Pentagon Papers, Skill Level Intermediate
his wife prepares Time 1 hour and 10 minutes
this pasta. + 1 hour for resting

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 119

 The Alps

WHEREFORE
ART THOU
BORMIO?

Bormio has it all: the Alps, hot springs, a possible enounter with
a wild animal, rustic cuisine and luxury. Beloved among the ski crowd,
Bormio is fashionable, but without any fanfare or pretense
by FIAMMETTA FADDA, photography GIACOMO BRETZEL

120 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 The Sunny Valley
Kelo Resort amid the
snow of Mt. Ortler
in the heart of Stelvio
National Park.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 121

 T
here are no highways
n e a r b y. T h e r a i l r o a d
stops in Tirano, a town
about 20 miles away,
then you have to take an
hour-long bus ride to get
here. At 4,000 feet above sea level, Bor-
mio in Valtellina is a bit more difficult to
reach than Cortina or St. Moritz. “What
a shame,” the locals say. But true moun-
tain enthusiasts, those who can’t wait to
reach the wide valley stretching between
the Alps in the heart of Stelvio Nation-
al Park, think it’s a stroke of luck. No
painted houses with balconies like in the
heart of South Tyrol and none of those
elaborate cottages that characterize
most popular mountain destinations.
Here simple stone houses, frost-re-
sistant vineyards and a town of 4,000
inhabitants greet you. The Frodolfo
River passes through the town, which is
divided into five tiny districts. Nobody From left, clockwise, pumpkin and
wears fur coats or hats here — not even game tortelli at Kelo Resort; freshly
if they can afford them. Bormio’s inhabi- molded butter pats from the Al Taulà
tants enjoy the emotional luxury of free- farm and its owners Filippo Forini
and Layla Ricci.
dom to choose among the various souls
such a place embodies — which says a
lot about this fiercely Catholic valley.
Though intact and protected today, in
the past it was contested by Napoleon
and Austria as well as during World War
I and II due to its strategic position.

The chic Lapland

If you want to combine comfort with a
spiritual experience in the snow, you
have two choices: either aim for extreme
adventure destinations and book a club,
or stay at Kelo Resort, a luxury mountain
lodge overlooking Bormio at an altitude

of nearly 8,850 feet. The last cable car

Fast facts: Bormio to Santa Caterina di Valfurva, the town
at the bottom, leaves at four. As the ski-
bresaola, a cured beef known also thrives here. ers refreshing themselves in the parlor
salami that’s emblematic Sample it in Valtellina downstairs disappear, you’ll be up close
of the region. Superiore DOCG wines and personal with the Ortles-Cevedale
Speak Valtellinese: from Arpepe and Nino peaks, the night and the silence, protect-
You say “an apple a Negri. ed by walls of the log cabin-style lodge
day keeps the doctor Buy: There’s something made of kelo, centuries-old Lapland fir
away.” The Valtellinese to be said for picking trees hauled up to the site by specially
say Vin da cantina, up a bottle of Braulio summoned Finnish craftsmen.
Where: Located in the prov- broeu da galina i man- straight form the source. This “madness” was built by Beppe
ince of Sondrio in Northern da i dut•r an ruina, a Also, pizzoccherri pasta Bonseri, a brilliant mind from Valtellina
Lombardy, Bormio sits in the proverb suggesting that travels well. Pick up who, while touring the world with the
Italian Alps at an altitude wine and hen broth are a few packages in Italian national ski champions, noted
of just over 4,000 feet. the daily remedies for a specialty shop to a similarity between these peaks and
Eat: Our sidebar has your avoiding the doctor. create your own version the most inaccessible northern destina-
meals covered, but you’d Sip: The nebbiolo grape of the beloved local tions. Eleven suites, a small restaurant,
be remiss to skip out on for which Piedmont is pasta at home. fireplaces and sauna — all covered with
More about Bormio at www.lacucinaitaliana.com fur. In the evening you can enjoy a be-
fore- or after-dinner drink in one of the

122 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 The Alps

lodge’s igloos — there is also an igloo

bedroom for those who love extreme
“Above Valtellina
experiences. You’ll eat proudly local but is Burmi. In Burmi
highly refined cuisine, an elevated take
on hearty mountain fare: Gnocchi with there are baths,”
a cream of mountain cheese, polenta
crust, dry alpine flowers; wild game and wrote Leonardo
pumpkin ravioli; and beef ganassino
with potato rösti. da Vinci in the
At the thermal spa with Pliny Codex Atlanticus,
In the days of ancient Rome, Pliny came
here to be healed, followed by Roman
having visited them
emperors and medieval monks. Their
journeys were arduous, considering that
himself in 1493
Dangling wicker
the Stelvio Pass opened in 1823. From chairs at Bagni
then on, with an easier way to arrive, Vecchi. Below, the
came the members of the Austrian im- Bagni’s open-air
perial court and, little by little, every- thermal pool.
one else, all seduced by the hot springs
bubbling along a path of underground
caves and natural pools. But it’s not just
a place for the elderly — hardy types
come here in winter, delighted to leave
the intense warmth (98-107°F) and cross
some 35 yards barefoot out in the snow
to step into tubs of hot water overlook-
ing the mountain peaks.
Two fascinating new rooms have just
been inaugurated inside: the salt room
where you can take deep breaths while
meditating, and a room with wicker
chairs dangling from the ceiling where
you can meditate while you swing.
Afterwards you’ll have no problem enjoy-
ing a traditional dinner at the restaurant
of Bagni Vecchi, the hotel next to the ther-
mal spa, or you can go down to the Grand
Hotel Bagni Nuovi further below for an
immersion in Belle Epoque grandeur.

Farmers’ arms still at work

In some mountain areas success has
made the industrious farmer a figure of
the past. Not here. In the farm at Taulà,
with its small shop, Filippo Forini and
Layla Ricci are living out a story of love
and cheese. When he was 18 years old,
Filippo asked for a cow instead of a car,
enrolled in dairy school and began work-
ing. Layla, meanwhile, returned from an
unsatisfactory trip to Paris to marry him
and help out.
They milk their 25 brown cows in
the evening and lay out hay for the
small, stocky local cows in the morning
before making the curd. They churn
and then package the butter, feed the
calves, cook, manage sales and raise
their young children. You’ll never taste
a more delicious ricotta, buttermilk
or formaggella (soft, creamy cheese).
Rini Agritourismo also offers an ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 123

 artisanal atmosphere without any pre- Rini Agriturismo Dark flours
tense. It’s not the scheme of a newly You’ll find buckwheat here — now all
arrived entrepreneur, but the initiative
of an old local family. The restaurant’s
offers an artisanal the rage. It doesn’t come from a grain,
but from the Polygonaceae family. Then
dining room — where you can enjoy
a tasty pasta dish of buckwheat piz-
atmosphere without there’s rye, a grain that grows well in
such inhospitable terrain. These dark,
zoccheri and sciatt, or venison cutlets
with juniper berries — has a large bay
any pretense. pasty flours are pleasantly rustic — as
is the circular rye bread and the holi-
window overlooking the stable where
50 cows ruminate. In the summer they
It’s not the scheme day loaf stuffed with raisins, nuts and
dried figs baked in the ancient restored
graze on the property’s mountain hay. of a newly arrived oven in the nearby town of Berola. But
Even the owners of a stable full of this had long been the sustenance of a
magnificent horses have to do the most entrepreneur, very poor farming society, which nour-
menial jobs. When he’s not accompa- ished itself with the ground grains of the
nying his guests in a carriage through but the initiative “forest,” a far cry from the luxuriously
the snowy landscapes, the Alpine blonde ears of wheat. Indeed, the bak-
Friesian owner Jacopo Martinelli is the of an old local ery and patisserie Eredi Romani, which
valley’s trusted blacksmith, plumber, today is known for its irresistible tarts,
and electrician. family nut cakes and chocolate breads, made

124 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 The Alps

specialties that you’ll find interpreted

THE SPECIALTIES in a more refined manner at Locanda
Sciatt – Meaning “toads” in the local Altavilla, a historic restaurant opened
dialect, these fried buckwheat flour in Bianzone in 1958, a half-mile from the
main road to Tirano. The owner, after
balls are stuffed with melted cheese
having worked in Paris before returning
and served with thinly sliced lettuce.
to join his mother in the kitchen, added
Manfrigoli – Crepes stuffed with
a touch of nouvelle cuisine: the humble
melted cheese and milk-soaked bread
taroz is no longer a soup of leftovers,
rolled into a sausage shape then
becoming a basket of stuffed pasta; the
sliced into sections that stand upright
manfrigola is filled with bechamel; the
while oven-baked.
venison is served with a pear baked in
Pizzoccheri – 3”-long Fettuccine
Sfursat and caramelized chestnuts.
made of two-thirds dark flour, one-
You’ll also get all the information you
third white flour, a pinch of salt and
need to pass for an authentic gourmet:
a touch of olive oil. Cooked with
the beef bresaola has to be the one made
potatoes and Savoy cabbage, they’re by Stefano Besseghini in Tirano with
served layered with young casera his secret curing technique; the best
cheese and dressed in piping-hot wheat is grown in Teglio; sciatt, which
melted butter with garlic. many attribute to Cicci Franchetti, chef
From the top, clockwise: Alfonso Boscacci and his
Taroz – A mash made of leftover of Valtellina’s Cerere restaurant in the
son in front of their historic salumeria; Edoardo vegetables that changes with the 1970s, were previously called chisoi and
Tarantola Peloni of Braulio; a plate of Speck seasons. The best-known combination were made from two different millings
at Locanda Altavilla. Opposite: the dining room is chunks of potatoes and pumpkin
at Agriturismo Rini with a view of the stable. of buckwheat.
flavored with local cheeses and
grated grana, all dressed in piping- Must-try platters
hot butter. Don’t go for the usual mixed platter of
Polenta taragna – Buckwheat cured meats and cheese. These special-
and cornmeal are blended together ties can be enjoyed in single tastings.
and added to boiling salted water The bresaola from Valtellina is famous.
and butter. As it cooks, more butter And with good reason: it’s made with
and breadcrumbs are added, only salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves
followed by flavorful Valtellina and crushed garlic using the finest cuts
cheeses and again more butter. After of beef. Plus the more frugal slinzegha,
a final stirring, the polenta is poured strips obtained from bresaola trimmings.
onto a cutting board. But here the mountain civilization has
Sferzata – Boiling-hot garlic- also rediscovered game: the butcher
flavored butter, the traditional finishing Alfonso Boscacci, who boasts a National
touch to local first courses. Institute of Rural Sociology certificate for
Panun – Egg-shaped rye bread “the discovery of cured deer meats and
with raisins, dried figs and walnuts, the collaboration between agriculture,
enjoyed primarily at Christmastime. crafts and trade,” cures and seasons the
meats himself. The feather in his ➝

its first refined cake only in the 1980s

from a recipe penned by St. Mortiz’s
famous pastry chef, Hanselmann.
Today, Eredi Romani is nicknamed
“Le Bonette” after the two owners who
once ran the shop. But trouble awaits
anyone who suggests that pizzoccheri
is a good substitute for tagliatelle in the
kitchen of the Vecchia Combo restau-
rant, which celebrated its 50th anniver-
sary last year.
Here, Rina and her daughter Tiziana
make it on the spot — up to three times
a night when exceptionally busy. Every
inhabitant of Bormio and anyone on va-
cation comes to try it, alternating with
the dishes of the day: menestra del mak
(barley soup), manfrigoli, taroz and
sausage with polenta taragna. All local

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 125

 cap is deer bresaola and roe deer violi-
no, a small ham so named because when
slicing it, it’s held on the left shoulder
and the knife is held in the other hand
like a violin bow. You should also buy
pepper lonzino before going back home,
as well as some pork filzetta and bondio-
la, coppa and liver mortadella.
Eat them with rye bread and a glass
of the same Sassella that Boscacci uses
to cure bresaola. The cheeses deserve an
episode all on their own: start with cow
and/or goat milk scimudin, a slightly
bitter creamy soft cheese, then contin-
ue with casera, a PDO since 1996. Finish
with the spicy, hole-flecked bitto, an ex-
ceptional mountain cheese. Enjoy them
with crisp rye bread sticks to counteract
the cheesy softness and bless them with
the perfectly intense notes of a Grumello.

These wines need heroes

All the way up to Tirano the hills facing
south are an elaborate tapestry of vine-
yards: they’re steeper and more danger-
ous than those of South Tyrol, and just
a tiny bit less precipitous than those of
Cinque Terre or Etna. They’re called
“hero vineyards” because it takes a hero-
ic will to go into the mountains to build

Don’t go for the usual mixed platter of cured meats and cheese

From top, clockwise,

pizzoccheri at Vecchia
Combo; a glimpse of
the cellar of Locanda
Altavilla and its
refined take on taroz.
Opposite: an old
ledger from Eredi
Romani; pizzoccheri
being prepared by
hand at Vecchia
Combo and Locanda
Altavilla’s owner.

126 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 The Alps

walls to support the few feet of land the was created in 1875 by the pharmacist secret and unchanged formula. To
vines cling to, to prune them following and chemist Francis Peloni. What Dr. make it even more mysterious, you’ll
the classic Valtellina archetto method Peloni certainly didn’t foresee was that be shown only four of the many herbs,
and to pick the grapes by hand, place his bitter liquor, sold in pharmacies for roots, berries and flowers that go into
them in baskets and go back down into stomach-curing and digestive proper- the liquor: namely gentian, wormwood,
town — and then back up again. ties, would be adopted, along with other juniper and taneda, the dialect name for
The grap e variety is Nebbiolo, historical elixirs, by contemporary mix- Achillea nutmeg.
the same with which Barolo is made ologists to become Braulio Spritz with All the herbs and other components
in Piedmont, but here they call it Prosecco and seltzer, and Cobra, a long that compose the bitter are dried,
Chiavennasca. Less austere Nebbiolos drink that mixes Braulio with Coca-Cola ground and macerated in a solution
are the result: more velvety, more enjoy- — good (some say) with pizza. of alcohol and water for a month, then
able by inexperienced palates, but able You can order them on the central Via sugar and more water are added to reach
to withstand aging well. They are little Roma in the Steak House Braulio, above 21 percent alcohol. It then rests no less
known because of the small quantities the cellars, which open to the public than 15 months in oak barrels for the
produced, but two wines are proof of for visits, for the preparation and aging classic Braulio — 24 months for the re-
their quality after having been named of the celebrated bitter. If you’re lucky, serve — before it’s bottled. The high-
DOCGs: Valtellina Superiore, divid- Edoardo Tarantola Peloni himself will light of the tour delves 25 meters below
ed into five sub-zones — Grumello, guide you through the 65,000 square ground in the scenic “atelier cellar” built
Sassella, Maroggia, Inferno, Valgella feet and five underground floors. He is by Campari, the holder of the brand to-
— and Sfursat, dialect for “strained,” the descendant, along with his brothers, day, shining with Slavonian oak barrels
the dry red passito, ideally the local of the family that guards the founder’s — it’s like an underground cathedral.
correspondent of Amarone, forced to Yet Edoardo Tarantola Peloni wanders
concentrate for three months on racks around like a conscientious landlord
to make up for the sugar lacking from with only three employees, turning off
the bunches which grew in such stingy lights, checking doors and then going
mountain heat. back upstairs where he lives. It comes
naturally to ask him banal questions:
The pharmacist when he goes out to eat, where does
and mountain herbs he go? “Eira, where I used to go with
Perhaps you already knew that Bormio my parents as a child.” And for a fancy
is the birthplace of the Amaro Braulio, dinner? “Filo, a charming old barn, with
a liqueur made from mountain herbs bold but sensible reinterpretations of lo-
grown on Mount Braulio. The amaro cal dishes.”

ADDRESSES
Il Salumaio, Via Peccedi 20, Bormio,
Tel. +39 0342 903382,
ilsalumaiobormio.it
Agriturismo Rini, Via Cav. Pietro
Rini 2, Bormio, Tel. +39 0342 901224
Ristorante Vecchia Combo,
Piazza Santuario 4, Bormio,
Tel. +39 0342 901568
Azienda Agricola al Taulà,
Via al Taulà 1, Oga, Valdisotto,
Tel. +39 346 8554883,
iformaggidioga.it
Cantine Braulio, Via Roma 27,
Bormio e Braulio, Via Roma 21,
Tel. +39 0342 905258
Pasticceria Eredi Romani,
Via Roma 100, Bormio,
Tel. +39 0342 901323
Kelo Resort Sunny Valley,
Valle dell’Alpe Valfurva,
Tel. +39 0342 935422, sunnyvalley.it
Locanda Altavilla, Bianzone,
Tel. +39 0342 720355, altavilla.info
Forno di Berola, Via Berola 4, Ponte
in Valtellina, Tel. +39 0342 484248
Alpine Friesian, Via Pecé 29 A,
Valdidentro, Tel. +39 347 2815532

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 127

Drink responsibly
 Newdles

Pasta

diversa The starch that keeps on giving

— who knew there were so many
ways to prepare pasta? Here are
6 alternative cooking methods
that let you switch up your pasta
routine without any hassle
recipes ALESSANDRO PROCOPIO, text VALENTINA VERCELLI
photography RICCARDO LETTIERI, styling BEATRICE PRADA

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 129

 Penne with Sausage
and Escarole Ragù
Skill Level Easy
Time 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

12 oz. penne
12 oz. escarole
7oz. sausage
3 Tbsp. pine nuts
2 Tbsp. raisins
1/2 cup dry white wine
salt

Wash the escarole and cut it into strips.

Set some of the soft pieces aside for
garnishing.
Rinse the raisins in lukewarm water.
Remove the sausage casing, break the
sausage up and brown in a sauté pan
for 5-6 minutes, continuing to break up
the pieces with a fork. Add the escarole
and let wither for 1-2 minutes, then stir in
the wine. Season with salt, add the pine
nuts and raisins, then cook for 1 minute.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.
Add the pasta and stir, then cook for
1 minute. Switch off the heat, remove
from the burner and keep the pasta in the
water following the cooking time indicated
on the package.
Drain the pasta, add to the ragù and
cook everything together for 1 minute
before serving. Garnish with the soft
escarole pieces.

Method:
Soaked

1 2 3

Place the pasta in boiling water. Remove from heat and keep the pasta in the water Add the pasta to the ragù and let it cook. This
for the amount of time indicated on the package. method gives the pasta a softer consistency.
This saves energy and space: you use less gas/
electricity and it frees up the stovetop.
130 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
 Newdles

Caserecce with
Pumpkin and for 20 minutes, adding salt to taste Method:
Gorgonzola as it cooks. Drain and purée. “Risottata”
Dice the remaining pumpkin and brown
Skill Level Easy the cubes in a frying pan with 1 Tbsp. oil
Time 40 minutes and a pinch of salt. Add the caserecce,
Vegetarian let sit for 1 minute, then add 3 ladlefuls
of broth. Stir, adding more broth once
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 it’s been absorbed and cooking for
a total of around 7 minutes.
11/2 lb. pumpkin, cleaned Stir in the pumpkin purée a little at a
12 oz. caserecce pasta time. Continue cooking for a few more
3 oz. sweet gorgonzola minutes until the liquid evaporates.
2 Tbsp. pumpkin seeds, peeled and (The pumpkin will take a few minutes
coarsely chopped longer to cook than the time indicated
Parmigiano Reggiano, grated on the pasta package.)
celery leaves Remove from the heat and stir
extra-virgin olive oil the caserecce vigorously, adding
vegetable broth 3 Tbsp. oil and grated Parmigiano 1
salt - pepper to taste, then season with pepper.
Plate the pasta, topping each portion Toast the caserecce (or any short pasta) in oil,
Cut 1 lb. pumpkin into small pieces and with gorgonzola, celery leaves and which will cook like risotto, hence the term
cook in a casserole pan with 1 qt. water pumpkin seeds. “risottata”.

When pouring the broth on the pasta, the quantity

should be around 15% more than the pasta. So, for
every 4 oz. of pasta, use around 4½ oz. of broth.

The pasta cooks by absorbing the broth. When

finished, stir in the pumpkin cream and grated
cheese. The pasta starch won’t disperse, so the
sauce becomes creamy without the addition of fat.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 131

Newdles

Spaghetti Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Method: with Vegetables Peel the carrots. Keep them whole and
Baked set the leaves aside.Peel the onions and
Skill Level Easy slice the celery crosswise.
Time 40 minutes Brown the celery and onions in a large
Vegetarian oven-safe saucepan with 3 Tbsp. oil for
3 minutes. Add the carrots, a few thyme
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 and rosemary sprigs, salt to taste, then
continue cooking for another 2-3 minutes.
11/2 cups vegetable broth Add the spaghetti and let sit for 1 minute,
12 oz. spaghetti then add 1 cup white wine. Cook for
8 small carrots with leaves another minute then add the broth and
4 borettane onions salt to taste. Cover and bake for 2⁄3 of the
3 celery stalks time indicated on the pasta package.
1 cup dry white wine Remove from oven and stir well. Return
thyme to oven and bake for the full amount of
rosemary time indicated on the pasta package.
extra-virgin olive oil Serve with the vegetables. If desired,
salt garnish with fresh thyme and rosemary.
1

Add the spaghetti, or any type of long pasta, to

the browned vegetables and toast for1 minute.

Pour in the white wine.

Add the broth and bake.

This technique results in a drier, more flavorful pasta.

132 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Wintry Mezze
Maniche with
Calamaretti
Skill Level Easy
Time 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

8 cups fish broth

1 lb. calamaretti (baby squid)
12 oz. mezze maniche pasta
6 oz. Savoy cabbage
6 oz. romanesco broccoli
6 oz. cauliflower
4 oz. black cabbage
extra-virgin olive oil
salt

Cut the cauliflower and romanesco

broccoli into florets, and chop up the
black and Savoy cabbages.
Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a casserole pan and
brown the florets for 2-3 minutes. Add both
cabbages, season with salt and cook for
another 2 minutes.
Add the fish broth followed by the
mezze maniche. Salt to taste and cook
for the amount of time indicated on the
package.
Drizzle a sauté pan with oil, brown
the squid for 30-40 seconds and salt
to taste.
Serve the pasta with a bit of its cooking
liquid and finish with the browned squid.

Method:
Simmered

1 2 3

Brown the vegetables in a saucepan with oil. Add the broth — the ratio should be 2½ cups for Add the pasta and cover. Cooking the pasta directly
every 4 oz. of pasta. in the broth adds flavor.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 133

 Orecchiette with
Potatoes and Mussels
Skill Level Easy
Time 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS FOR 4

2 lb. mussels
12 oz. orecchiette
20 oz. new potatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled
and halved
fennel
dry white wine
extra-virgin olive oil
salt

Clean the mussels and place them in

a casserole pan with 2 Tbsp. oil, garlic,
1 fennel frond, 2 cups water and 1/2 cup
white wine, then cover. Cook over
medium heat to open the mussels.
Filter the mussel cooking liquid and
dilute it with water until you have 1 qt.
Shell half of the mussels.
Wash the potatoes, then slice them
up without removing the skin.
Place the orecchiette in a glass bowl
and lightly coat with oil, then add the
sliced potatoes and the cooking water
from the mussels.
Seal the bowl with plastic wrap and
pierce a hole in the top.
Microwave at maximum power for
2
⁄3 of the cooking time indicated on the
pasta package. Salt to taste, then plate
the orecchiette and potatoes. Add the
mussels and fennel fronds to finish.

Method:
Microwaved

1 2 3

Lightly coat the orecchiette with oil so they Add the potatoes and filtered cooking Seal the soup bowl with plastic wrap,
won’t stick together. liquid to the bowl. pierce it and microwave.

134 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Newdles

Method:
Fried
Sweet and Savory
Fried Pasta FOR THE SWEET VERSION
Cut up the lasagna sheets and fry them
Skill Level Intermediate in hot oil for around 1 minute until they
Time 20 minutes swell slightly and become crispy and
Vegetarian golden. Dry on paper towels, dust with
powdered sugar and serve alongside
INGREDIENTS FOR 8 chocolate dipping sauce.
FOR THE SAVORY VERSION
12 oz. fresh scialatielli Fry the scialatielli in hot oil for 2-3 minutes
12 oz. lasagna sheets until they become crispy and golden. Dry
powdered sugar them on paper towels, add salt and serve
peanut oil with ketchup or your favorite sauces or
1
salt condiments.
Choose your favorite type of fresh pasta
and fry it in hot oil; the scialatielli will swell and
take on a crunchy, breadstick-like texture.

Drain with a metal strainer.

Dry on paper towels before serving.

PREFER THE
TRADITIONAL BOILING
METHOD?
1 The perfect ratio is
1 quart of water and
2 teaspoons of salt for
2 A few minutes before the time indicated on the
package, drain the pasta and finish cooking it directly
in the sauce along with 1-2 ladlefuls of the cooking water.
Here are a couple every 4 ounces of pasta. The starch released from the pasta will make the sauce
of tips creamy without the need for any additional fats.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 135

 Heart and Soul

P H I L LY
P L AT E D With striking architecture, a bustling food scene and a trove
of cultural treasures, Philadelphia boldly juxtaposes history with
tomorrow for a whirring city that’s impossible not to love
by JACLYN DEGIORGIO, photography EVAN SUNG

136 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

Jean-Georges Philadelphia
located on the 59th floor
of the new Four Seasons
Hotel at the Comcast
Technology Center,
designed by Norman
Foster. Opposite: Philly by
night as seen from the Four
Seasons’ Sky Lobby.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 137

Heart and Soul

I
’m loath to admit that once namesake Central Park West restaurant,
upon a time I was that New a two-star Michelin shrine that also
Yorker. The one who urged holds four stars (top honors) from The
others to visit Philadelphia New York Times. I stroll through the JG
without having really spent SkyHigh lobby bar and descend a stair-
any quality time there my- case flanked by two black stone walls
self — save for a few elementary school varnished by glistening ripples of gen-
field trips, but they don’t really count. I tly cascading water. The glass-enclosed
took the 80-minute train ride for grant- dining room offers horizon-stretching
ed, knowing that I could visit the high- views while mirrored ceilings capture an
ly touted city whenever I wished. Yet inverted glimpse of those urbanscapes,
thinking wishfully regressed into wish- which emit a cosmic effect when the city
ful thinking when I moved to Italy...un- lights sparkle at night.
til I (finally) managed to reach Philly by The classically trained Alsatian chef,
dint of a nine-hour flight. whose 38-restaurant empire spans the
Anytime I mention Philadelphia to world, is known for refined cuisine
Italian friends, the conversation imme- with an Asian flair. Vongerichten was
diately jumps to the topic of emulating a involved in the Comcast Tower from
certain silver screen pugilist by jogging the get-go, and spent the last five years
jubilantly up the 72 steps leading to the Jean-Georges at the Four Seasons Philadelphia. working on the project. “Brian Roberts
columned Greek Revival facade of the Below: a hotel suite outfitted with custom-designed [CEO of Comcast] came for lunch at
Philadelphia Museum of Art. furniture from the Foster Practice. Jean-Georges in New York
But, with all due respect to and asked me about it. I said
Signore Balboa, Philadelphia why not? Yes!”
is a much more intriguing The menu at Jean-
nut to crack. Georges Philadelphia fea-
As America’s first capital, tures a selection of his sig-
Philadelphia is teeming with natures — a toasted egg
history, a detail that hasn’t yolk sandwich served on
gone unnoticed by UNESCO, thin, burnished crispy bread
which named Philadelphia a crowned with a dollop of
World Heritage City in 2015. caviar, and tender raw tuna
I have advised all New-York- ribbons with creamy avoca-
bound Italians to hop on do and lime sauce — along-
a train and spend a night side dishes created solely
there, but, as they tend to for Philly, such as burly crab
believe that New York is the dumplings in a tangy Meyer
be-all-end-all, they’re hesi- lemon sauce.
tant to venture outside the The Comcast Center ’s
Big Apple. It’s a shame that ground floor houses Vernick
Philadelphia gets overshadowed by New floor. Sixty seconds later, I disembark in Fish, a new concept from Greg Vernick
York because, as my recent visit con- the Sky Lobby and admire the sweeping of Vernick Food & Drink, a beloved lo-
firmed, Philadelphia doesn’t live in New city panoramas. On my way to check- cal chef whose distinctions include a
York’s shadows. in, I pass Norman Foster’s glossy onyx James Beard Award. Having worked for
pedestals bedecked with designer Jeff Vongerichten for years, Vernick’s career
Sky’s the limit Leathem’s floral arrangements in assort- has taken him full circle to collaborate
The Comcast Technology Center dom- ed purple hues, then take the elevator with his mentor in a new capacity, which
inates Philadelphia’s skyline, having down to my room on the 51st floor. as Vernick explains, keeps him on his toes
dwarfed its predecessors in 2018 to be- Outfitted with specially designed fur- — for better or worse. His new concept
come the city’s tallest structure. The sec- niture from the Foster Practice in warm specializes in various fish preparations,
ond skyscraper from the Philadelphia- earth and bronze tones, the room fea- from raw to cooked to everywhere in be-
based telecommunications conglomer- tures a curved wall that adds a spacious tween. “When I opened Vernick Food &
ate stands 1,121-feet tall, its 60 stories dimension and a plush white bed that I Drink seven years ago, I was on a shoe-
surpassed by a laser beam that ups the just wish would swallow me whole. The string budget. I would do all the butcher-
structure’s dramatic impact as it ex- floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlook ing. I cut all the fish and I fell in love with
PHOTO ARCH. FOUR SEASONS

tends triumphantly above the clouds. the latticed pyramid crown topping the it. Calling the fishmongers was part of my
The skyscraper’s top 12 floors lodge the postmodernist BNY Mellon Center as week. As we grew, I had to hire a butcher
219 accommodations (180 rooms and 59 well as the steel spire jutting out of the Art and give that up, and I missed it.”
suites) of the new Four Seasons Hotel, Deco edifice of One Liberty Place, Philly’s The Adam Tihany-designed 200-seat
my base for the next four days. I enter first skyscraper, and its third tallest. oyster bar and brasserie is edged with a
the glass elevator, keeping my back to A meal at the Four Seasons warrants a glass wall that spans the length of Arch
the door to watch the City of Brotherly visit in and of itself. Chef Jean-Georges Street. Illuminated orbs dangle from the
Love unfold as we soar toward the 60th Vongerichten opened an outpost of his ceilings, copper cookware clings ➝

138 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 ➝

Clockwise: Pasta
shapes crafted by
Michael Vincent
Ferreri; the dining
room at Res Ipsa Cafe;
Vernick Fish at the
Four Seasons, located
on the ground floor of
the Comcast
Technology Center.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 139

Heart and Soul

From right, clockwise:

chef Marc Vetri and his
Taylor guitar; Vetri’s
ground floor dining
room; Swiss chard
gnocchi with brown
butter and ricotta
salata, on the menu
since its 1998 opening.

to the wall of the open kitchen and warm The Italian side mentioning Marc Vetri. An unquestion-
wood abounds, occasionally juxtaposed Like most major American cities, Italian able trailblazer, the chef opened Vetri
with splashes of marine blue. influences have shaped Philadelphia’s Cucina in 1998 inside a 19th-century
With his share-style menu, Vernick food culture. The South 9th Street Italian townhouse on Spruce Street that once
encourages guests to branch out and feel Market, America’s oldest continuously hosted Le Bec Fin restaurant, an em-
at home. “I saw people dining different- operating outdoor market, is a half-mile blem of the city’s dining culture. What
ly. I saw people eating lighter. The op- pocket of South Philly where merchants drew him to the location? “I can’t explain
portunity to share a meal of seafood and have been peddling their wares since it, but as soon as I walked in, I knew,” he
vegetables let me add more variety to 1915. I pass Cannuli Brothers, famous says. And I get it — the cozy feels-like-
the table. I wanted to build a menu that for its cooked-to-order oven-roasted home ambiance alone could tempt one
lets people try more things — the idea of whole pigs, and Esposito’s, a butcher to linger at the table for hours.
a seafood platter and everyone breaking shop established in 1911 where skin-on Vetri was one of the first chefs in the
bread together, this is not just what I like pork belly is today’s special. At Anastasi country to offer elevated rustic Italian
to prepare, it’s how I like to eat. I don’t Seafood, Blue Point Oysters beckon fare that deviated from Italian cuisine
just like my appetizer, entree and des- from a glistening bed of ice and lobsters as locals knew it. “We had a lot of people
sert — I want to try different things. It’s a unknowingly crawl their final steps. I who would walk in, look at the menu and
more enjoyable way to dine out.” House- browse fresh hand-cut pasta at Talluto’s ask where are the meatballs? Where’s the
made lattice-shaped potato chips ac- and an array of imported tinned fish at Parmesan? It took a bit of time, but it
company tartares such as spicy tuna and Claudio’s. The South Philly outpost of worked because Philadelphia was ready
buttery salmon for scooping while raw Cristina Martinez’s Barbacoa, a taque- for it,” says Vetri. His efforts haven’t gone
preparations include a pinwheel-shaped ria that fans of Netflix’s Chef’s Table will unnoticed, earning him coveted culi-
Nantucket bay scallop crudo with caviar recognize, is nestled inconspicuously be- nary accolades, including a James Beard
and a drizzle of cranberry-ginger vinai- tween awninged storefronts. Award in 2005.
grette. Squid “pad thai” salad and grilled While plenty of spots around the city Vetri honed his talent under Wolfgang
PHOTO ARCH. OSTERIA

harissa shrimp with pomegranate, figs cook up Italian-American crowd-pleas- Puck in Los Angeles before a two-year
and yogurt are ideal for those who prefer ers, a handful of chefs specialize in fare stint in Italy, where he spent most of his
to keep their food to themselves. that’s more in line with what’s on the time in Bergamo — a journey from nou-
Vernick’s third concept, Vernick menu in the motherland. velle California cuisine to rustic Italian.
Coffee Bar, is perched in the lobby of the It would be blasphemous to cele- At Vetri Cucina, he serves what he
Comcast Technology Center. brate Philly’s Italian food scene without describes as the ultimate surf and turf

140 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Left: Lombarda
pizza with cotechino
sausage, bitto
cheese and egg.
Right: the glass-
enclosed patio
at Osteria. Below:
robiola-filled
francobolli pasta
filled with trumpet
mushrooms

In 1998, Marc
Vetri opened Vetri
Cucina, a restaurant
offering elevated
rustic Italian
cuisine that deviates
from traditional
Italian-American
fare
pasta: lobster tagliolini with a delicately teaching kitchen comprised of three
robust ‘nduja butter, then topped with vans that visit farmers’ markets after
crispy lobster-bisque soaked bread- school to teach students about vegeta-
crumbs. “We had been playing around bles, their origins and how to cook them.
with homemade Calabrian chilis that we In early 2019 Vetri acquired Fiorella,
ferment in house. There’s nothing better a 100-year-old sausage shop where he
to make with them than a really good plans to open a 14-seat pasta bar.
‘nduja sausage. Once we had that, we In 2016, close friends Tyler Akin of
tried it in several dishes and we decided Stock Restaurants and Mark Corpus and
to try it with lobster.” Mark Capriotti of ReAnimator Coffee
Six tender Swiss chard gnocchi Roasters brought their food and cafe ex-
spheres, a Vetri Cucina classic, sit in an perience together to open Res Ipsa Cafe,
opaque pool of nutty brown butter and an all-day eatery serving three meals
are topped with a blanket of ricotta sala- (dinner is BYOB) and everything in be-
ta, a salty sheep milk cheese. “This dish tween. They brought on Michael Vincent
has been on the menu since we opened,” Ferreri, with whom Akin had cooked for
says Vetri. “I originally had something years at Zahav restaurant, to lead the
like it at a restaurant I worked at in day-to-day kitchen operations. “The
Bergamo called Frosio. They were much we used to cook it solely on a spit out- name is derived from the Latin-language
larger and more like one big spinach side. Through the years we have tried dif- common law concept res ipsa loquitor,”
ball. When I opened I tried the one ball ferent methods making it just a little bet- Akin explains. “I had learned this phrase
but it didn’t work well so I started roll- ter every year. Also, the polenta that we during law school, which translates to
ing them smaller. We change between used originally was from Italy. Now we ‘the thing speaks for itself.’ The name al-
Swiss chard and spinach depending on use polenta that we mill in-house daily, lows the space to carry various identities
what’s in season.” which adds an entirely different flavor.” throughout the day.”
A spit-roasted capretto (baby goat) on Twelve years ago, Vetri established For the menu, Ferreri, whose parents
the bone lays languorously atop a bed of the Vetri Community Partnership. What were chefs, seeks inspiration from his
creamy polenta — another classic that’s started as a school lunch initiative has Southern Italian roots, Sicily in partic-
been on the menu since day one. “This evolved into an after-school program ular. While the entire menu is flawlessly
dish has evolved the most over time as called the Vetri Cooking Lab, a mobile executed, his house-made pasta ➝

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 141

Where to eat in Philadelphia

has caused quite a frenzy. The fazzoletti,

the only pasta on the menu year-round,
are prepared with preserved lemon and
orange, then finished with bottarga,
which tempers the acidity and adds a
subtle touch of umami — I hold myself
back from a second helping of these
“handkerchiefs.”
House-made fennel sausage and hon-
eynut squash accompany the strascina-
ti, one of Ferreri’s favorite pasta shapes.
“It’s been around forever, a precursor to
orecchiette. You make it the same way,
you just don’t put your thumb in it.” The
diminutive squash, a variety advocat-
ed for and revived by chef Dan Barber,
comes from a local farmer. Ferreri cooks
the squash until it takes on an al dente
texture similar to the pasta, and finishes
with brown butter, sage and rosemary.
Breakfast is served until 11:30 a.m. and
among the American-style sandwiches,
Ferreri follows the full English archetype
for his Italian breakfast: fried egg, broc-
coli rabe, fennel sausage and focaccia
topped with salsa verde.
Jeff Michaud, a Vetri veteran, helms
Osteria, which he opened in 2007. The
chef spent a year in Italy cooking, trav-
eling and training at various Michelin-
starred restaurants.
With its rustic wooden accents and
airy, glass-enclosed patio overlook-
ing the garden, Osteria evokes one of
the many cascina on Milan’s outskirts
where I’d go for Sunday lunch among
loved ones. Lombarda pizza is topped
with egg, bitto (a cheese from Valtellina
in Northern Lombardy) and cotechino
sausage, and pillows of francobolli pas-
Above: the entrance to
ta are filled with delicate robiola cheese
the Comcast
Technology Center. and tossed with trumpet mushrooms
Below: chef Jean- and thyme. Michaud draws inspiration
Georges Vongerichten from his mother-in-law and often tries
and his toasted egg to replicate Italy as much as possible on
yolk sandwich topped
with caviar. the plate. “When I put the rabbit and po-
lenta on the menu, it’s the same way my
wife’s grandma prepares it.” In addition,
Michaud and his wife run La Via Gaia, a
high-end travel company where he leads
food-forward tours of Italy, often along-
side other chefs.

Mission cheesesteak
Not eating a cheesesteak in Philly is
PHOTO ARCH. FOUR SEASONS

just as sacrilegious as passing up pizza

in Naples. Two institutions dedicated
to this beef and cheese hoagie sit at the
tail end of the Italian market: Geno’s and
Pat’s. The two stand diagonally across
from each other on Passyunk Avenue as
if ready to lace up for a spar in the center
of the ring.

142 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA

 Heart and Soul

Yet, I learn the hard way that these two Other eats
cash-only operations are programmed According to the James Beard Foundation,
for high volume turn-and-burn traffic, Philadelphia is home to America’s cur-
so, despite the hype, you’ll fare better rent Outstanding Restaurant, Zahav, chef
elsewhere. The one I choose, which I Michael Solomonov’s homage to his na-
won’t call out, leaves me tragically dis- tive Israel. At K’Far Cafe, Zahav’s sister
appointed. I order my cheesesteak “wit” restaurant, I tear into a Jerusalem bagel,
onions and American cheese from one dipping each jaggy nugget into a bowl-
designated window, and cheese fries and ful of labneh concealed under a layer of
a beverage at the other. The first cashier za’atar and caviar. Fishtown, the hip, edgy
hands me the sandwich immediately and district north of the city center where cof-
the second one follows suit just as swiftly. fee titan La Colombe originated, is home
I unravel it to find a soggy, greasy speci- to Suraya. The owners, siblings Roland
men — not the good, fresh-out-of-the-ov- Kassis and Nathalie Richan, named this
en-Ligurian-focaccia kind of greasy, but Lebanese restaurant after their grand-
the not-so-good kind...the kind that mother. Silky, smoky baba ganoush is
recalls a certain Milanese pizza chain. topped with pomegranate seeds and the
Unmelted cheese accompanies the dry, kanafeh made with local mozzarella is
bland, tepid meat-and-onion fill- coated with phyllo strands and
ing. I’m devastated, though de-
termined to find a cheesesteak
Dr. Barnes’ art collection drizzled with rose syrup.

worth writing (home) about, so I includes 181 Renoirs, Culture

69 Cézannes, 59 Matisses
summon an Uber to bring me to I find plenty of ways to keep
the 127-year-old Reading Terminal my dance card full in between
Market, a thrumming emporium
with dozens of food stalls. and 46 Picassos meals, most notably at the
Barnes Foundation. The late
I stroll beneath the dangling Alfred Barnes, a quirky character
neon signs and pass wood pick- to say the least, amassed a mod-
le barrels and 50-plus flavors of ern art collection that is worth
fluffy hand-rolled doughnuts at $25 billion today. Dr. Barnes in-
Beiler’s, bounty from the Amish vented Argyrol, an eye drop that
Country at Lancaster County prevented newborn blindness —
Dairy and soft jumbo pretzels at it made him a fortune, which he
Miller’s Twist. After my first lap, invested into what’s considered
I notice that the line at Carmen’s one of the world’s most import-
Famous Italian Hoagies & ant collections of Impressionist
Cheesesteaks has nearly doubled, a n d p o s t- I m p re s s i o n i s t a r t ,
so I hop on and wait, watching claiming 181 Renoirs, 69
the team behind the glass wall Cézannes, 46 Picassos (one from
prepare made-to-order chees- his Blue era), a couple of Van
esteaks, a harmonious medley of Goghs, a Degas dancer, a Pissaro
spatulas chopping the beef into and the collection’s crown jewel:
delicate strands on the griddle Matisse’s Joy of Life...not to men-
coupled with the sizzle and hiss of tion another 58 of his works. Part
searing meat. Though the Cheez of the museum’s intrigue lay in
Whiz is tempting, I once again Barnes’ whimsical curation with
go for American and onions and myriad ways to contemplate
I add pickles, then wait about 15 each work.
minutes for my food before plopping ADDRESSES The Philadelphia Museum of Art is
myself down at one of the seating areas worth the visit and not just for paying
to dig in. The hot beef melds seamlessly The Four Seasons Philadelphia, homage to Rocky. The collection in-
with the cheese and onions, all held taut fourseasons.com cludes works by modern masters like
by sturdy, though delightfully greasy Jean-Georges Philadelphia, jean- Picasso, Duchamp and Dalí as well as
bread. Each bite fuses the tender meat georges.com pieces by notable contemporary greats,
with sweet onions, gooey cheese and an Vernick Fish, www.vernickfish.com such as Cy Twombly and Jasper Johns.
Vetri Cucina, vetricucina.com
occasional burst of brininess from the Its Beaux-Arts-style Rodin Museum an-
Res Ipsa Cafe, resipsaphilly.com
pickles — I’m satisfied, and ready for nex is home to the largest collection of
Osteria, osteriaphilly.com
dessert. I head to the Termini Brothers the artist’s works outside of Paris.
Reading Terminal Market,
Bakery stall, where I ponder the round I’ve just barely scratched the surface,
readingterminalmarket.org
individually-sized layer cakes in flavors Italian Market, italianmarketphilly.org but I know one thing for sure: histo-
like tiramisu and limoncello, but ulti- K’Far Cafe, kfarcafe.com ry won’t repeat itself — decades won’t
mately opt for a cannolo that’s filled on Suraya, surayaphilly.com elapse between now and next time. Until
the spot — the best way to savor one. then, Philly.

LA CUCINA ITALIANA – 143

 Just One More Bite...

Say Cheese
Squacquerone. All together now: skwa-kwe-ROW-nay. The pronunciation may seem challenging, but the taste
of this creamy Italian cheese is apparent at first bite. Fresh, sweet and tangy with a soft texture and pearly
white hue, Squacquerone is an emblem of Emilia-Romagna. This PDO cow milk cheese undergoes a four-day
PHOTO R. LETTIERI, STYLING B. PRADA

maturation and has been enjoyed since Roman times. Its delicate aroma and sweet flavor make it an excellent
filling for piadina, the local flatbread, as well as a delightful ingredient for countless other preparations,
from risotto to desserts. Should you find yourself trying to fend off a late-night craving for cheesecake,
throw some raspberries atop a luscious bowlful of Squacquerone for a satisfying no-bake recipe.

Hungry for more? Visit www.lacucinaitaliana.com

144 – LA CUCINA ITALIANA
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OUR NATURE IS TO NURTURE

Whether it’s hand-picked olives from regional orchards in Italy, wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano DOP carefully cared for by
artisan cheesemakers, or a simple loaf of bread tended to daily by our in-house bakers, every ingredient at Eataly is nurtured
in the ground, harvested lovingly, produced consciously, and offered from our hands to yours.

THAT’S FOOD LOVE

Shop in-store or online #ThatsFoodLove eataly.com

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