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Random documents with unrelated
content Scribd suggests to you:
 Braising is a form of cooking generally adopted for cooking tough
meats. The food to be braised is placed in a kettle with a few slices
of salt pork, some vegetables, seasonings and a small amount of
liquid, either water or stock. The kettle is then covered closely and
the food cooked until tender. Braising is a long, slow process.

Frying
Frying is cooking food in hot fat, deep enough to cover the food.
Lard, olive oil, cottolene or drippings may be used. The fat should be
heated hot enough to brown a piece of bread a golden brown in
forty seconds for cooked food, and in sixty seconds for uncooked
food. There are various theories about the digestibility of fried food.
The latest seems to be that food properly fried and drained may not
be very indigestible. To prepare fat for frying, fill frying kettle one
half full, and heat gradually. Avoid frying too much at a time, as the
temperature will be reduced and the food much more liable to
absorb fat. Reheat fat after each frying. Drain the food on brown
paper.

Sautéing
Sautéing is cooking food in a frying pan in a small amount of fat.
Food is less digestible cooked in this way than fried food.

Broiling
Broiling is cooking the food on a greased broiler before hot coals
or the gas flame. The broiler should be held very near the flame at
first to sear the surface of the food, and should be turned every ten
seconds for the first minute of cooking, and afterwards occasionally.

Pan Broiling
Pan broiling is cooking the food in a hissing-hot frying pan
without fat. It is employed where it is impossible to broil, and may
be better accomplished where two frying pans are used, and the
food turned from one to the other every ten seconds for the first
minute and afterwards occasionally, as in broiling.
 JUST HOW
How to Crumb, Egg and Crumb
For crumbing, dried bread crumbs which have been pounded or
rolled until fine and then sifted are best. The bread may be broken
in pieces and dried in the oven or merely allowed to stand in the
open air until dried.
To prepare the egg, break into soup plate, beat until yolk and
white are well blended, season with salt and pepper, dilute with two
tablespoons cold water and use for dipping.
Food to be fried should be dried as much as possible, then dipped
in crumbs, then placed in the egg, and thoroughly covered with the
egg, then drained and dipped again in crumbs.
It is an economy of time to crumb all of the pieces to be fried,
then egg all, and when drained, to crumb all. This may be done in
the morning and the food fried when wanted. In this case, allow the
prepared food to stand in kitchen fifteen or twenty minutes before
frying. When fried always drain on brown paper.

How to bone Meat, Fish, Birds

Legs and loins of lamb and mutton are the meats ordinarily
boned. The butcher will do it; but if it must be done at home, wipe
the meat, and with a sharp knife scrape the meat from the bone,
being careful not to cut through the skin. Fish to be boned generally
have the heads cut off; then remove the flesh from one side of the
backbone, and then from the other.
To bone birds, chickens, or turkeys, select undrawn birds, with
head and feet left on. Remove pin feathers and singe. Draw tendons
from legs by making an incision just below the knee joint, and with a
strong skewer draw the tendons out one at a time. Loosen the skin
near the feet and cut off feet. Make an incision through the skin
from the neck to the tail, the entire length of the backbone. Scrape
the flesh from the bones until the shoulder blade is found, then
continue scraping around the wing joint. Scrape down the backbone
to the thigh, then around the second joint and leg, cutting tendinous
portion when necessary. When one side of backbone is boned, bone
the other, then remove flesh from breastbone, on either side of bird.
When flesh is all separated from bone, discard carcass, wipe flesh
and skin, and arrange in original shape. The birds may be seasoned
and broiled; or stuffed, sewed into shape and steamed. Small birds
are generally prepared the former way, and large birds the latter
way.

How to clarify Fat

When through frying, add a pared potato, cut in slices, to the fat,
and let stand on back of range until potato has browned. Remove
potato and strain fat through a cheese cloth. Fat clarified in this way
may be used indefinitely.

How to clarify Melted Butter

Let melted butter stand in a dish on back of the range until the
salt has settled, then pour off butter, leaving sediment in the bottom
of the dish.

How to avoid the Burning of Fat

When fat is put on the range to heat for frying, put in a cube of
bread. If the fat is forgotten, the bread will burn first, and the odor
of the burned crumb will attract the attention. The burned flavor
cannot be removed from burned fat.
 How to try out Suet
Cut the suet in small pieces, place in top of double boiler, cover,
and cook over hot water until all the fat is tried out; strain through a
cheese cloth. This can be done in the oven if the top of the range is
crowded.

How to Lard
Larding is accomplished by cutting strips of salt pork lengthwise
with the rind two inches long and one quarter inch wide, and with
aid of the larding needle drawing these pieces through the surface of
the meat, taking a stitch an inch long and a quarter inch deep.

How to test Fat for Frying

Heat the fat. When a blue smoke begins to appear, drop in a cube
of bread; if the bread browns a golden brown in forty seconds, the
fat is hot enough for any food which has previously been cooked.
Uncooked food requires a longer, slower frying; the cube of bread
should brown in sixty seconds for such food.
Food cooked in fat tested in this way should never soak fat if one
is careful to put a small enough quantity of food in at a time—not
enough to cool the fat.

How to make Croquettes

For meat croquettes, cold cooked meat should be freed from skin
and gristle, and cut quite fine, then mixed with a thick sauce to as
soft a consistency as it is possible to handle. Chill before shaping.
For vegetable croquettes the vegetables should be boiled, then
mashed and seasoned. Chill before shaping.
To Shape.—Allow one rounding tablespoon of croquette mixture
for each croquette, roll into a round ball, roll ball in crumbs, then
shape either like a cylinder or pyramid; when all are perfect and
uniform, dip in egg, then in crumbs.

How to prepare Sweetbreads

Soak in cold water from the time they come from the market until
used. Drain, cover with two cups cold water, add four cloves, one
and a half teaspoons salt, two tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice,
and a slice of onion; simmer for one half hour, drain, cover with cold
water, remove tubes and membranes. Broil whole; or if for larding,
dip in egg, wrap in cheese cloth, and press under weight over night.

How to care for the Refrigerator

Select a large refrigerator, of simple construction and of
hardwood,—the lining of zinc or marble and the shelves of slate or
hardwood.
To keep the refrigerator clean, remove instantly any food spilled
in any of the compartments. Wash the ice compartment and food
chambers at least once a week with hot soapsuds, and for
economy’s sake do this when the ice is low. Pour boiling water down
the waste pipe. Sal soda dissolved in the water tends to keep every
part sweet and clean.
Shelves and all portable parts, when washed and scalded, should
be placed in the sun to dry; if this is impossible, dry before a fire.
Keep a good supply of ice in the ice chamber; it is cheaper in the
end.
Never keep the doors or covers of the refrigerator open
unnecessarily long; it wastes the ice.
A good refrigerator properly cared for should last at least twenty-
five years.
 How to Caramelize
Place sugar in clean agate-ware frying pan, and stir continually
until the sugar becomes a golden brown sirup.

How to Poach
Place food to be poached in frying pan half filled with boiling
salted water. Cook below the boiling point from three to eight
minutes.

How to cream Butter

Place butter in bowl, and mash against the sides of the bowl, with
a spoon, until of a creamy consistency.

How to cut and Fold

Pour mixture into bowl, and cut through and through mixture with
a spoon, then take up some of mixture in spoon, and turn spoon
completely over, and fold under mixture. Continue this process until
mixture is blended.

How to crease Frosting

When frosting is nearly cold, cut with a silver knife, wiping knife
after making each crease.
 CARVING
To master the art of carving one must understand the anatomy of
the meat to be carved.
The carver should insist upon having a sharp knife, a large platter,
and sufficient space to move his arms.

Whole Fish
The carving of fish is extremely simple. Run the knife the whole
length of the back, then cut from the back to the middle of the fish;
the flesh may then be separated from the bone. When one side is
served, turn the fish over and carve the other side in the same way.
The center of the fish is considered the best, as it is the fattest
portion. The meat around the head and neck is decidedly gelatinous.
Medium-sized fish, like mackerel, salmon, trout, and so forth, are
cut through the bone, thus giving a piece of fish on either side of the
backbone for each serving.
Small fish are generally served so as to make four fillets,—two
fillets on either side of the backbone.

Beef
For carving roast beef, a long, broad-bladed knife is required.
Always cut across the grain of the meat; never with the grain.
The joint of beef known as the Porterhouse roast or sirloin roast
consists of the sirloin, the tenderloin, and the flank. The flank is
tough, and if roasted with the meat, is generally used for some
made dish, such as croquettes, or hashed meat on toast; it is seldom
carved at the table.
The tenderloin and sirloin must be carved across the grain. Cut
thin slices parallel to the ribs or at right angles with the backbone,
then cut close to the backbone, thus separating the slices. Rib roasts
are carved in the same way as the sirloin.
Rolled ribs and round of beef are carved in round slices as thin as
possible, each slice having considerable fat mixed with the lean.
Beefsteaks are carved across the grain.
Sirloin Steak.—Cut slices at right angles to the vertebræ in both
the sirloin and the tenderloin, then separate.

Lamb and Mutton

A leg of mutton is considered by many the most difficult piece of
meat to carve. If the hip bone is removed, the carving of this joint is
simple, but it is usually left in. Place the leg on the platter, with the
skin side next the platter. Carve from the hip bone across the leg;
these will be the largest slices, as they come from the part of the
joint which has the most meat. The portions near the knuckle are to
be carved in the same way; they will not be so rare as the thicker
slices. Chops may be cut from the upper part of the leg.
Fore Quarter of Mutton or Lamb.—Remove the fore leg and the
shoulder, then separate the rib chops. Every part of the fore quarter
of lamb is sweet and tender, but the neck in the fore quarter of
mutton should be used only for stewing. In carving the shoulder of
either lamb or mutton, one must study the meat before cooking.
The Saddle of Mutton.—There are several ways of carving this
joint. The fat, tenderloin and kidney should all be removed in one
piece.
 The most popular way is to cut long slices parallel with the
backbone, on the portion nearest the tail, and slices diagonally on
the portion nearest the neck.
The Loin of Mutton.—Generally this joint is carved by merely
separating the chops, but it may be carved in the same manner as
the saddle of mutton.

Veal
Fillet of Veal.—This cut is carved like the round of beef.
Shoulder of Veal.—The shoulder is often boned and stuffed. In
that case, cut through the meat from side to side. If the bone is left
in, carve in the same manner as the shoulder of mutton.
Loin of Veal.—-This cut is often stuffed, and the kidney is always
cooked with the meat. Carve the same as the sirloin of beef, in large,
thin slices.

Pork
Pork Spareribs.—Serve one rib to each person.
Loin of Pork.—Chops may be carved and served, or the roast may
be carved exactly like the sirloin of beef.
Roast Ham.—Cut through the meat to the bone, using the portion
nearest the knuckle first. Ham should be cut in very thin slices.
Tongue.—The small end of the tongue is inferior to the thicker
portion. Cut slices crosswise of the tongue and serve a slice from
both portions to each person.
Roast Pig.—Place the head of the pig at the right hand of the
carver. Cut off the ears, then the head; cut the head in halves. Cut
the whole length of the backbone, dividing the creature in two
pieces.
 Cut off the leg of one half, then separate the shoulder from the
body. Carve the ribs and loin at right angles with the backbone. Cut
the other half in the same way. Young pig meat is very tender and
the bones are soft, so that carving is an easy matter.

Poultry and Game

To carve Poultry.—Place the bird on the platter, with the head to
the left and the side toward the carver. Insert the fork across the
center of the breastbone. Remove the wing, then the leg, then the
side bone between leg and body. Cut slices from the breast, running
from breastbone to place from which wing was removed. Remove
wishbone by cutting from end of breast to the left of the wing joint.
Make an incision to the right of breastbone for removing stuffing.
Remove fork from breastbone and cut the leg in small portions.
Serve a slice of light and a slice of dark meat to each person.
Serve one side of bird before carving the other side.
Broiled Chicken.—Cut through the breast and cut in halves at
right angles with the top of leg. But if birds are small, serve one to
each person.
To carve a Duck.—Cut off the wing and the leg the same as for
poultry. Cut the breast meat parallel with the breastbone, beginning
at the side between the wing joint and the thigh.
To carve a Goose.—Carve in the same manner as a roast duck,
but cut the leg in several portions.
Grouse and Partridge.—These birds are carved like duck, although
sometimes the breast is separated from the bone and one half
breast is served to each person.
Pigeons, quails, and small birds are served whole and generally
on toast.
 MARKETING
The term marketing means to the ordinary housekeeper the
buying of meats and vegetables only, but the buying of all articles
necessary for housekeeping should be included under this head.
 PLATE A
SIDE OF BEEF
BOSTON CUTS

1 NECK
2 CHUCK RIB
3 PRIME RIB
4 SIRLOIN
5 BACK OF RUMP
6 MIDDLE OF RUMP
7 FACE OF RUMP
8 AITCH BONE
9 ROUND
10 VEIN
11 HIND SHIN
12 FLANK
13 RATTLE RAND
14 BRISKET
15 FORE SHIN

In order to market well the housekeeper must know what articles

to buy in quantity and when to buy to the best advantage.
 It is much more economical proportionately to buy for a large
family than for a small one.
PLATE B
BOSTON CUTS
 Staple articles such as bread flour, rice, spices, and so forth,
should be bought in large quantities. Vegetables which keep well,
such as potatoes, squashes, turnips, and so forth, should be bought
in the early fall to last until spring, provided there is a cool, dark
place in which to keep them. Meats must necessarily be purchased
as needed, unless one has a large refrigerator in which to hang
them.
Fish, with the exception of salt or smoked kinds, should be
bought only when absolutely fresh. Fruits such as apples and pears
may be bought in large quantities, but perishable fruits in small
amounts only.

Beef
The beef creature is first divided into halves the length of the
backbone, then each half is separated into the fore quarter and the
hind quarter.
In the fore quarter we have in Boston markets—

Parts How Cooked

Brains Stewed or Scalloped
Tongue Boiled, Fresh or Corned
Neck Stewed
Sticking Piece Stewed or Baked
Five Chuck Ribs Roasted or Broiled
Five Prime Ribs Roasted
Fore Shin Stewed
Rattle Rand
—Corned Boiled
Brisket

In the hind quarter we have in Boston markets—

Parts How Cooked
Sirloin Roasted or Broiled
 Rump Roasted or Broiled
Round Roasted or Broiled
Hind Shin Stewed
Flank Braised or Boiled
Tail Stewed for Soups
Other parts of the beef creature used as food are—

Parts How Cooked

Heart Braised
Liver Braised, Fried, Sautéd
Kidneys Sautéd, Braised, Stewed
Tripe Stewed, Broiled, Fried
Suet Sautéd and used for Frying

A side of beef weighs on the average about 450 pounds.

Beef when first cut is dark purple, but turns red on exposure to
the air. Good beef has a heavy layer of fat on the outside, which is
yellowish white and crumbly; the inside fat is white. Best quality
beef has a large percentage of fat and a small proportion of water.

Description of Cuts of Beef

In the Boston markets, the part marked (4) in the side of beef in
Plate A has three ribs left on and the whole piece is called the sirloin.
It is divided by the butcher into the tip which has one muscle only,
the middle and the first cut. The fillet or tenderloin of beef is found
just under the first rib. It begins in a small point and increases in
thickness as it runs back. It ends in an obtuse point at the hip bone.
It is always covered with a thick bed of suet and the kidneys are
embedded in this suet at the end near the ribs. Sirloin roasts are
considered by many the best roasts. They are expensive cuts as they
contain considerable bone, and in a large creature, a large amount
of tough flank, but as they are tender, juicy and of good flavor they
are popular pieces.
 PLATE C
BOSTON CUTS
 Porterhouse Steaks are sirloin steaks cut from the sirloin nearest
the rump; they always have a large piece of tenderloin. They are
generally a few cents per pound more than the sirloin without the
tenderloin. Sirloin Steaks are cut from all parts of the loin.
The rump joins the sirloin as shown in Plate A. The back of the
rump is the best piece for roasting as it contains no bone; it is more
economical than the sirloin roasts, but as the flavor is different it is
not so popular. The middle and face of the rump are both used for
roasts, but are less juicy and tender than the back. Both of these
pieces are often used for beef à la mode.
 PLATE D
SIDE OF BEEF
NEW YORK CUTS

1 NECK
2 CHUCK
3 RIB ROAST
4 LOIN
5 RUMP
6 ROUND
7 BOTTOM OF ROUND
8 HIND SHIN
9 FLANK
10 PLATE
11 NAVEL
12 CROSS RIBS
13 BRISKET
14 CLOD
15 FORE SHIN

Rump Steaks are cut with the grain of the meat and across the
grain; the former are tough and the latter are generally tender and
juicy; they are cut from the part marked (5) in Plate A. In the cross
cut rump steak there is a piece of tenderloin.
 The aitch bone, number (8) in Plate A, contains a large proportion
of bone; if a large roast is cut, a portion of the rump and a part of
the round is included, so considering the price, which is as many
cents per pound as there are pounds, it is not an expensive piece as
it can be used for a roast one day and made into a stew the next.
The round of beef as shown in Plate C is divided into the top and
the bottom. The top is used for steaks and roasts. The first few
slices are quite tender. The third slice is the best for steak as it has
only one muscle. The farther down the leg the steak is cut the
tougher it becomes. The bottom of the round must necessarily be
tough because of the large number of tendons. It may be easily
distinguished from the top as it contains two muscles. It is used
principally for making beef tea or Hamburg Steak.
The vein is used for roasting or braising. The meat is usually
stringy but of very good flavor.
The hind shin is used only for stews or soup stock. The fore shin
contains less meat but is sometimes used for the same purposes as
the hind shin. The pieces marked 12, 13, 14 in Plate A are usually
corned.
Number (3) in Plate A is the rib roast. It contains five ribs, the
first three ribs being the best part of the piece. Number (2) in Plate
A is the chuck rib piece. This contains the shoulder blade and is
consequently tough. It is best for stews or braising, although it may
be used for roasting. The bones are frequently removed and the
piece tied into a round roast, but at best it is tough although the
flavor is good. The neck is used principally for soup stock, stews and
beef tea.
PLATE E
NEW YORK CUTS
 If we consult Plate D representing the New York cuts of beef, we
find that the part marked (3) is called the Rib Piece. The thirteen
ribs are left in this piece. It takes in part of what is called Sirloin in
the Boston markets. In New York the ribs are cut much longer than
in Boston and the price per pound is less, but as this gives a tough
portion of the flank, the cost, in reality, is just as great. The part
marked (4) is the sirloin and is used both for roasts and steaks.
When there is a large piece of tenderloin on the steak it is called a
Porterhouse Steak, but when there is only a small piece of tenderloin
it is called Short Steak or Delmonico Steak. From this cut nearest the
rump we get the hip bone, the flat bone, and the round bone steaks.
There are three round bone steaks, which are generally rather
inferior. The flat bone steaks are also three in number and better
than the round bone steaks. The hip bone steaks are the best of
these three and contain a small piece of tenderloin. The rump (5) is
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