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Review article on preparation and evaluation of herbal face cream

Article in Annals of Forest Research · March 2022

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 Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH
ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

REVIEW ARTICLE ON PREPARATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL FACE

CREAM

M.Swetha1, VT.Iswariya2, K.Maryswarnalatha3, Dr.T.Rama Rao4

1,2,3- Department of pharmaceutics, CMR college of pharmacy, Hyderabad
4- Principal and Professor,Department of pharmaceutics, CMR college of pharmacy, Hyderabad

ABSTRACT: Semi solid dosage forms that are usually applied topically on skin are called creams.
The main aim of this research work is to prepare herbal cream with anti-blemish and anti-oxidant
properties using herbal extracts. The herbal extracts used in this preparation are Lycopene, Tulsi,
and Aloe vera gel. This herbal cream was prepared using slab technique. The formulated cream is
evaluated for various parameters like pH, stability, consistency and its viscosity.
INTRODUCTION:
In the pharmaceutical industry there are many drug delivery systems that are needed to ensure the
delivery of the drug to the area or part of the body specified. There are many parameters to consider
while selecting a drug delivery system. For creams topical delivery system is most suitable.
Topical drug delivery systems can be defined as application of drugs onto skin to treat skin
infections. They can be used for local skin infections, blisters or acne problems. Topical drug
delivery systems offer more advantages than other drug delivery systems in terms of toxicity and
efficacy.
SKIN:
To ensure effective drug delivery through skin, physiology of skin should be studied. It is the
outermost part of the body and the largest organ which represents 8% of body weight. It is a
complex structure that has different cells and fibers that comprises the multi-layered structure of
the skin.
PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN SKIN:
Epidermis: The superficial layer of the skin which comprises stratified squamous epithelium is the
epidermis. The thickness of these layers differs. It is thick on the palms of hands and soles of the
feet. Its deeper layer consists of interstitial fluids from the dermis that provides oxygen and other
nutrients.
Dermis: This layer is tough and elastic. It consists of collagen fibres which provide tensile strength
to the skin. The major cells present in this layer are fibroblasts, macrophages and mast cells.
Underlying this layer areolar tissue is present which contains adipose tissue.
Subcutaneous tissue: This layer consists of secretory epithelial cells. They secrete an oily
substance called sebum into hair follicles. They are present on all parts of the body except palms
of hands and soles of feet.

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 Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH
ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

CREAMS:
There are many dosage forms used in the pharmaceutical industry. Among them the semi-solid
dosage forms are called creams. They are usually applied topically on skin. They are mixtures of
oil and water. In the cosmetic industry cosmetics play an important role as they are known for their
moisturizing effect.

To make skin more attractive and to enhance its beauty cosmetic products are used. These cosmetic
products also protect skin against exogenous and endogenous harmful agents. The use of cosmetics
is not only for developing an attractive external appearance, but also towards achieving longevity
of good health by reducing skin disorders. Cosmetics are the substances intended to be applied to
the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, and altering the appearance
without affecting the body's structure or functions.

Face cream has emerged in the last 50 years to improve complexion and attractiveness. Melanin
is one of the reasons for dark complexion. Melanin is the primary determinant of “melanocytes”
that are located in the epidermis. The increased production of melanin in human skin is called
“melanogenesis”. Creams that are used for improving the complexion of skin are called face
creams. These are semisolid preparations of oil and water O/W Creams which are composed of

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 Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH
ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

small droplets of Oil dispersed in the continuous Water Phase. O/W type are more comfortable
and more acceptable
cosmetically they are less greasy, easily washed off using Water. W/O Creams are the formulation
that is composed of droplets of Water dispersed in continuous Oil Phase. W/O types are more
difficult to handle; they are also more moisturizing as they provide an oily barrier which reduces
water loss from the stratum corneum. These creams are based on one simple formula of controlling
dispersion of Melanin. Melanin is the pigment that controls skin color.
IDEAL CHARACTERISTIC OF CREAMS:
● Good penetrating property so that the drug present in cream penetrates into skin and shows
the desired effect.
● It should be non-toxic so that it does not have any adverse effects on skin such as itching,
rashes or redness.
● When applied on skin it should spread easily on skin.
● It should melt or liquify at body temperature when applied on skin.
● It should be non-irritant and should not cause any inflammation on skin.

TYPES OF CREAMS:

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 Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH
ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

HERBAL CREAM:
Synthetic creams may show adverse effects on skin. To avoid this, herbal creams are being used.
Herbal creams contain ingredients that are solely derived from herbs and shrubs. They are widely
used as they do not show any adverse effect when applied on skin. Another advantage is that they
can be prepared easily as the ingredients are available naturally. There are different types of creams
like cleansing, cold, foundation, vanishing, night, massage, hand and body creams.

Herbal creams have been widely developed since ancient ages in India because India is a country
in which rich number of medicinal plants or herbs are obtained. India has very rich history of
Ayurveda and traditional medicine in which many herbal creams are prepared.
From pre historic times many herbal medicines were prepared to protect against inflammation or
physical damage by external agents or by other infective organisms. Now many new herbal
ingredients have been found hence there is huge demand for herbal cosmetics.

Cosmetics are the products applied on the body. Face cream is used as a cosmetic for softening
and cleansing action. The Ayurveda system of medicine was one of the most important systems
that used herbal plants and extract for the management of various cosmetics and some medicinal
products. Aloe Vera.amla and cucumber peel are medicinal plants used traditionally from ancient
years in various herbal medicines such Ayurveda, siddha, and Homeopathic. Cosmetics and some
medicinal products are made up from the mucilaginous tissue in the centre of aloe Vera leaf and
called Aloe Vera gel. Cucumber peels are rich in fibre and contain minerals like magnesium,
potassium, and silica.

Ingredients for Herbal Face Creams:

Calendula:
•It has anti Inflammatory and healing effects. It is used for the treatment of insect bites,
cuts, and small wounds.

Aloe Vera:
• Aloe Vera is an important key ingredient in a wide range of beauty and skin care
products.
• Improving the effectiveness of sunscreen products relieves itching and swelling of the
irritated skin.
•Aloe Vera gel is used as a moisturizer, to reduce pimples and acne and also used for
treatment of burn wounds.

Hibiscus:
• Hibiscus is said to have a tanning effect rich in amino acids

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ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

Neem:
• Neem is used as an antifungal and anti-inflammatory and it is also used to reduce scar,
pigmentation, redness and itching of the skin.

Tulsi:
•Tulsi is used to add glow to the skin and to promote wound healing

Hibiscus abelmoschus:
•Hibiscus abelmoschus generally known as okra, used from ancient time for the treatment
of various diseases like diarrhoea, syphilis, gonorrhoea, urinary tract infection inflammation
and also used to treat itchiness & skin moisturizer.

HERBAL EXTRACTS: To prepare herbal face cream herbal extracts are used. The extraction of
herbal ingredients should be done in a careful manner so that these extracts can be used in
preparation of herbal face cream.

EXTRACTION PROCESS OF SOME HERBAL INGREDIENTS:

⮚ Tulsi extract: Tulsi leaves are collected and dried for 3-4 days naturally or using a hot air
oven. After the leaves get dried, they are crushed or powdered to make fine powder. Then 1 g tulsi
powder is taken into a beaker and dissolved in 10ml dimethyl sulfoxide. Then it shaken vigorously
and then it is heated on water bath at 80-100ᵒc.Then it is filtered to improve any impurities present.
After that the filtered clear solution is used for preparation of herbal cream.

⮚ Aloe vera extract: Firstly, healthy and mature aloe vera leaves are collected and dried.
After drying outer section of aloe vera leave is dissected using sterile knife. The aloe vera gel is

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ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

then removed using sterile knife. Then it is filtered and the filtered clear solution is used for herbal
cream preparation.

⮚ Neem extract: Neem leaves are collected and washed. These leaves are dried and
powdered. Then 5g of the neem powder and then dissolve it in dimethyl sulfoxide. The solution is
then heated on water bath 80-100ᵒc.Filter the solution then clear solution is obtained which is used
for herbal cream preparation.

⮚ Lycopene extract: A weighted amount of tomato paste is taken and then dissolved in
methanol and shaken vigorously. Keep it undisturbed for 3 hrs. After 3hrs upper yellow filtrate
was discarded. Then equal amounts of carbon tetrachloride and methanol was added. By filtration
upper methanolic layer was separated. To this layer water is added to form white emulsion. Again,
methanolic layer was separated with addition of anhydrous sodium sulphate. Mixture was then
filtered and filtrate was evaporated in water bath. Dark oily residue was obtained which is
dissolved in benzene. Finally, Lycopene was crystallized out with drop wise addition of boiling
methanol.

⮚ Papain extract: Ripe papaya fruit is taken and washed. Then it is dried and cut into pieces.
The pieces are crushed into 100ml distilled water and filtered. The obtained clear solution is used
for herbal cream preparation.

⮚ Green tea extract: The green tea plant materials are collected. They were dried in shade
and then grinded to form coarse particle. The green tea is then extracted using hydro alcoholic
solvent that is a cold maceration process at the ratio 70:30. Then the extract is dried properly and
then used for herbal cream preparation.

IDENTIFICATION OF HERBAL EXTRACTS:

Qualitative phytochemical analysis of herbal extract is done to identify the phytochemicals in the
extracts.

Test for alkaloids:

o Mayer’s test: Crude extract was taken and 2ml of 1% HCl was mixed and heated gently.
If precipitate was formed it indicates the presence of alkaloids. For tulsi extract precipitate is
formed and for lycopene extract dark orange is formed which indicates presence of alkaloids.

o Dragendroff’s test: Crude extract was taken in the test tube. Then dragendorff reagent is
added to crude extract. For tulsi extract orange red colour is formed and for lycopene extract yellow
orange is formed which indicates the presence of alkaloids.

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ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

Test for flavonoids:

o Lead ethanoate test: Crude extract is taken in the test tube. 1ml of lead ethanoate was
added to the extract. If Buff coloured solution is formed it indicates presence of flavonoids.

o Shinoda test: Crude extract is taken in a test tube. Small amount of magnesium and
concentrated Hcl is added. If pink scarlet colour appears then it indicates presence of flavonoids.

Test for tannins:

o Ferric chloride test: Crude extract is taken in the test tube. 1ml of Ferric chloride is added
to the crude extract. If black colour forms it indicates presence of tannins.

Test for proteins:

o Biuret test: Crude extract is taken in a test tube 2ml of biuret reagent is added. It is shaken
well for 5 min then warmed. If red or violet colour appears then it indicates presence of proteins.

o Millon's test: Crude extract is taken in a test tube than 2ml of million reagent is added to
the extract then precipitate is formed. On heating if this precipitate turns red then it indicates
presence of proteins.

Test for carbohydrates:

o Fehling’s test: Equal amounts of Fehling A and Fehling B reagents were mixed and 2ml
of it was added to the herbal extract and then gently heated the sample. Appearance of brick red
precipitate indicated the presence of carbohydrates.

o Iodine test: 2ml of iodine solution was mixed with 0.5 to 1 ml of crude extract. A dark
blue or purple coloration indicated the presence of the carbohydrate.

DIFFERENT METHODS FOR PREPARATION OF HERBAL FACE CREAM:

● Trituration: In this method geometric dilution is used. All the ingredients used in herbal
cream geometric dilution is used. In case of liquids a well is made at the centre. When smaller
quantities are needed glass slabs are used to avoid air pockets.

● Levigation: This method is used when coarse particles are used. A molten liquid base or
semisolid base is used to rub coarse powder.

● Fusion method: In this method drugs and other solids are dissolved in ointment base and
then combined. By melting the ingredient into the base, the soluble constituents are dissolved. This
method uses special techniques to protect the base and other components from thermal
degradation.

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 Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH
ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

EVALUATION OF HERBAL FACE CREAM:

▪ Physical evaluation: The prepared herbal cream was observed for colour, odour, texture,
state in physical evaluation.
▪ Irritancy test: An area of 1sq.cm is marked on the left-hand dorsal surface. Then cream
is applied to the specified area and time is noted. Irritancy, erythema, edema was checked, if any,
for regular intervals up to 24hrs and reported.
▪ Spreadability: Adequate amount of cream is taken between two glass slides and a weight
of 100gm is applied on the slides for 5 minutes. It can be expressed as
S= m*l/t
Where, m = weight applied to upper slide.
l = length moved on the glass slide.
t = time taken.
▪ Viscosity: Viscosity of formulated herbal creams can be determined by using Brookfield
Viscometer
▪ Homogeneity: The formulation was tested for the homogeneity by visual appearance
and by touch.
▪ Removal: The ease of removal of the herbal creams applied was examined by washing the
applied part with tap water.
▪ Dye test: The scarlet dye is mixed with the cream. Place a drop of cream in a slide and
cover with a cover slip and examine it under a microscope. If the disperse globule appears red and
the ground colourless then it is o/w type and the reverse condition appears in w/o type of creams.
▪ After feel: Emollience, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application
of a fixed amount of cream was checked.
▪ Type of smear: After application of cream, the type of film or smear formed on the skin
was checked.
▪ Determination of pH: The pH of the formulated herbal cream can be measured on a
standard digital pH meter at room temperature by taking adequate amounts of the
formulation diluted with a suitable solvent in a suitable beaker.

CONCLUSION:
Formulation of cream was done by slab technique. The cream was evaluated on several parameters
which gave good results on its safety and efficacy. In the coming days due to progress in the
pharmaceutical industry more advanced techniques are being developed for formulation and
evaluation of cream. There is a huge demand for herbal based face cream and this demand can be
increased in the upcoming years as herbal constituents-based creams are safer and proven to be
efficient when compared to synthetic face creams.

REFERENCES:
● Debjit Bhowmik1*, Harish Gopinath1, B. Pragati Kumar1 , S.Duraivel 1 , K.P.Sampath
Kumar2: Recent Advances In Novel Topical Drug Delivery System Vol. 1 No. 9 2012

© ICAS 2022 10322

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Ann. For. Res. 65(1): 10315-10323, 2022 ANNALS OF FOREST RESEARCH

ISSN: 18448135, 20652445 https://www.e-afr.org/

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Madhuri Nandgave, Nilam Gaddamwar: Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Face Cream
Volume 7, Issue 1 Jan-Feb 2022.

© ICAS 2022 10323