Published 29 June 2023

Author Katie Baron

18 min read

The urgent appetite for brands to intensify green initiatives is clear, but galvanising consumers confused by
claims, bored by sterile/identikit messaging, or paralysed by doom is less straightforward. From hopecore-
harnessing content, halo-ing pragmatism and new eco terminology, to virtual world shifts and the brand-
backed collectives empowering youth’s eco-mmunities (and egos), we unpack the ideas making a difference.

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Summary

Renaissance Luxe: With the second-hand goods market booming (see Key Stats), so too is the need for brands to
Sustainability & Non- differentiate their ‘pre-loved’ stance. It’s spurring new archive and vintage-focused
collaborations spotlighting the creative appeal of reinterpretation rather than straightforward
New by Other Names repair, where elevated terminology – see Coach’s ‘Upcrafting’ and Gucci’s ‘Continuum’ – is
central to communicating future-facing aspirations.

Circularity for the Eco store concepts and activations that imaginatively honour product maintenance and
‘Assets’ Era: longevity are shrewdly fuelling consumers’ increasing understanding of their items as assets
(see Key Stats); spurring predictions that rental, resale and repairs will constitute 23% of the
Integrated Repair, global fashion market by 2030 (Bloomberg Intelligence, 2023); and feeding young people’s
Protection & appetite for practicality - see Hyper-Pragmatism & Levelling Up in Gen Z Now: YMS 2023 for
Authentication more.

Make It a Movement: With 70% of global 16- to 25-year-olds seriously concerned about climate change (World
The Beta Eco- Economic Forum, 2022), the imperative to offer eco agency to Gen Z – a famously co-creation-
expectant cohort – is huge. Puma, Coach, H&M, Adidas and Greenpeace are all exploring
mmunities collaborative, participatory and (mostly) cannily profile-boosting activism via young vloggers
Empowering Youth and documentarians (among others) to help establish new, anti-corporate eco languages.

Project Optimism: The important summoning of a sense of possibility Siegler describes in section 1 also
Hopecore Content & underscores the projects harnessing hopecore – content centring both big-picture positivity
Cultural and daily optimism, but without disregarding reality or irony. Filtering into films, ads and
Programming branded literature, it’s a paradigm shift taking messaging from climate crisis to climate hope.

Gaming & The Gaming and the metaverse’s virtual worlds remain fertile spaces for brands and publishers to
Metaverse Rally galvanise eco-activism, with the play-for-rewards mechanics conducive to introducing,
teaching and/or exploring new green practices and solutions. It’s a receptive audience: 63% of
Players to Eco- American video gamers feel a personal sense of responsibility to help reduce global warming
Activism (Unity, 2022).

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At A Glance

Innovation Platforms

Sustainable Futures Luxury Perspectives Digital Worlds

Topics

Advertising & Branding Service Design Digital Gaming Media & Entertainment

Metaverse Publishing & Broadcasting Retail Social Media Ethics

Pop Culture Brand Experience

Regional Focus

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Key Stats

General Combining eco-ethical claims is likely to convey extra authenticity

and appeal – in nearly 80% of product categories surveyed in 2023,
80% there was a positive correlation between the growth rate and the
number of distinct types of environmental, social and corporate
governance-related claims a product made

US brands that garner more than half of their sales from products
making environmental, social and corporate governance-related
32-24% claims enjoy 32-34% repeat rates, meaning that consumers buy
products from these businesses three or more times annually

In the UK, 69.6% of people said in 2021 they’d be more likely to buy
69.6% from a business with a B Corp certification, but 28% stated that this
attribute wouldn’t change their purchase

Between 2017-22, products making environmental, social, and

corporate governance-related claims accounted for 56% of all growth
56% in the US – about 18% more than expected given their standing at the
beginning of the five-year period

Europeans lead the belief that sustainability should not be a luxury –

55% 55% of Germans and 43% of Brits think so – while only 29% of
Americans agree (though that accounts for 79 million consumers)

Provenance-focused stories aren’t as appealing as brands may think:

apart from Germany (30%) Gen Zers pay less attention to where their
30% clothing comes from, including in the US (19%) and the UK (17%) – and
for millennials, this sentiment declines steadily from the US to
Germany to the UK

Food waste and dealing with it are highly searched topics, particularly
30% in Germany, where 30% of consumers want to know more about these
two climate-related issues

In 2022, just over 80% of Brits said they’d be willing to pay at least 10%
80% more for sustainable products, a figure that rises to nearly 90% for
British millennials, but reduces to 75% for Gen Xers

66% In China, nearly two-thirds of consumers say they’re willing to pay

more for sustainable and eco-friendly products

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 Only 25% of brands have invested in building dedicated platforms
connecting their eco initiatives, “allowing them to approach
25% campaigns as multiple chapters of the same book instead of
individual stories”

65% Between October 2020 and March 2021, 65% of consumers in the
UAE, Saudi Arabia and Egypt said they became more eco-friendly

75% In the Middle East, 75% of consumers say they buy from companies
that are environmentally conscious, compared to 54% globally

72% The percentage of Middle Eastern consumers who say they choose
products with a traceable and transparent origin, versus 55% globally

39% In the Middle East, 39% of consumers report not prioritising

sustainability, believe there is a lack of green options

When it comes to (new) eco fashion, factors including reducing water

usage and carbon emissions are most important to millennials and
41% Gen Z – in the US, millennials make up 41% of the sustainable apparel
market

Renaissance Luxe: The percentage of global luxury consumers who consider fashion
Sustainability & Non- 65% houses’ commitment to sustainable development when making
purchasing decisions
New by Other Names
Globally, one in five luxury brands can’t see past consumers as critics,
20% severely limiting communications around their sustainability efforts
and this potentially limiting their influence

80% The percentage of luxury consumers who think fashion houses must
be involved in the product lifecycle

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Circularity for the
‘Assets’ Era: Integrated
23% Rental, resale and repairs have the potential to cover 23% of the
global fashion market by 2030
Repair, Protection & Globally, 60% of luxury consumers now believe that the responsibility
Authentication
60% for driving environmental, social and societal change lies with luxury
brands

Consumers increasingly perceive their possessions as ‘assets’,

90m showing that a sense of longevity matters – 90 million Europeans first
tried reselling in 2021, up from 16 million in 2020

53% In the last 12 months, 53% of British consumers repaired an item

40% As of 2022, just over one-third of luxury brands were open to the idea
of repairs, while over 40% of labels did not advertise any such service

As of 2023, consumers in Australia (62%) top the rankings when it

62% comes to buying second-hand/pre-loved goods in the 12 months
prior, followed by India (60%) and the US (59%)

The global second-hand/pre-loved and resale apparel market was

$351bn worth $177bn in 2022, and is set to rise rapidly and nearly double by
2027, reaching a value of $351bn

As of 2023, the share of German and British Gen Zers who say they’ve
bought second-hand furniture and household goods in the last year is
2x about twice as high as Gen Xers and baby boomers – but in the US,
millennials constitute the largest share, followed by Gen Z and Gen X

Make It a Movement:
The Beta ‘E-
83% In the UK, 83% of Gen Zers want brands to have a stance on social
issues, including the environment
Communities’ Globally, 70% of people aged 16-25 are very worried about climate
Empowering Youth change, including in the Philippines (84%), India (78%), Brazil (77%),
70% Nigeria (51%) and the US (46%), highlighting the value of brand
initiatives and services that give youngsters a voice and sense of
agency

Only 12% of global luxury brands understand that “selling a dream is

more effective than selling a product when it comes to sustainability”,
12% and the importance of inviting fans to take action by joining the
business on its journey

Project Optimism:
Hopecore Content & 71% In 2023, 71% of people worldwide say they need hope now – a
sentiment never previously expressed
Cultural Programming

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Gaming & The In a 4,000-person survey spanning China, Japan, the US, and the UK,
66% of gamers say they’re more likely to play socially responsible
Metaverse Rally
Players to Eco-
66% games (those with an eco-ethical slant), while only 9% feel negatively
towards such titles
Activism
60% The percentage of 18- to 34-year-olds globally who see the metaverse
as an alternative to social networks

63% The percentage of US video gamers who feel a personal sense of

responsibility to help reduce global warming

34.75% Challenge-based gamification in education leads to a 34.75% increase

in user understanding

In the US, 70% of video gamers say they’re either ‘somewhat’ or ‘very’
worried about global warming, compared to 64% of the overall
70% population, highlighting the power of gaming as a tool for brands to
leverage in promoting sustainability

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Renaissance Luxe: Sustainability & Non-New by Other Names
With the second-hand goods market booming (see Key Stats), so too is the need for brands to
differentiate their ‘pre-loved’ stance. It’s spurring new archive and vintage-focused collaborations
spotlighting the creative appeal of reinterpretation rather than straightforward repair, where elevated
terminology – see Coach’s ‘Upcrafting’ and Gucci’s ‘Continuum’ – is central to communicating future-
facing aspirations.
Gucci Continuum Frames the Non-New as Transcendental: Gucci has built upon its Vault concept – an
online store serving as a repository for all its archival pieces and projects – with Gucci Continuum. This
series of collections sees ethically and environmentally progressive designers like Sweden’s Rave
Review, Italy’s Alice Pons and France’s Egonlab transform prestige Gucci off-cuts and deadstock into
fresh items. Exalted, anti-retro language is key: the landing page refers to Continuum as an “ongoing
dialogue between past and future” and new pieces highlighting “Vault's transcendental vision”.

I’d advise brands to avoid words like ‘conscious’, ‘circular’

or even ‘sustainable’ – both because it’s a minefield and
because it’s unlikely you’re hitting those standards
definitively. Focus on future-proofing and innovation
because everyone knows that we can’t carry on like this.
In an unsafe world, terminology [like Continuum] that
suggests a pathway, a sense of stability in journeying to
a better future, will really help.

Kirsten Siegler
Co-Founder & Managing Director, VBC

Coachtopia’s Trackable ‘Upcrafting’ Acknowledges Circularity Besides Repair: Coach’s new circularity-
focused sub-brand Coachtopia acknowledges that full rebirth sometimes necessarily trumps repair.
Advancing its 2021-launched Coach (Re)Loved programme, products are made from recycled,
renewable or deadstock materials, or easily disassembled to keep them ‘alive’ as components when
irreparable. The term ‘Upcrafting’ elevates deadstock reuse, often with embellishments by creative

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 collaborators from its network of ‘Coachtopians’ (another term anchored in positive projection – see
Make It a Movement below for more) furthering the reinterpretation.

Fans also receive a digital passport – accessed by a product-embedded non-fungible token (NFT)
chip – via US Eon to track their pieces after trade-in, fuelling the prestige attached to ever-changing
versions.

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Circularity for the ‘Assets’ Era: Integrated Repair, Protection &
Authentication
Eco store concepts and activations that imaginatively honour product maintenance and longevity are
shrewdly fuelling consumers’ increasing understanding of their items as assets, spurring predictions that
rental, resale and repairs will constitute 23% of the global fashion market by 2030 (Bloomberg
Intelligence, 2023); and feeding young people’s appetite for practicality - see Hyper-Pragmatism &
Levelling Up in Gen Z Now: YMS 2023 for more.

The focus on what happens to a product later is key

because [unlike with issues of provenance] that’s when
the customer is already connected to it, emotionally
and in terms of responsibility. Limit the amount of
information about the original design phase, because
people are less invested in it and often don’t
understand it.

Kirsten Siegler
Co-Founder & Managing Director, VBC

Selfridges Stock Market Pop-Up Evolves ‘Validation Retail’: British department store Selfridges’ June
2023 London pop-up, The Stock Market, invited fans to bring in items to be altered, repaired and
valued by experts, with both reselling and immediate exchange in mind. For more, see Validation
Stores & Asset Studios in Brand Spaces: 9 Trends & Opportunities, 23/24 and The Brief.

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 Freitag & Timberland Fire Pragmatists’ Excitement: Swiss bag brand Freitag’s new Shanghai store
offers customisation and repair, while US label Timberland’s New York store features customisation
space The Shed. Inspired by its New Hampshire headquarters’ prototyping lab, it lets visitors
personalise and, crucially, repair Timberland products.

Kristen Siegler, co-founder of German communications agency VBC, says this new-meets-
maintenance combination is critical: “It’s important to remember that people will almost never only
shop second-hand, which is why sustainability and eco-centric projects can’t be an extra category, but
part of the whole.”

Sneaker Protection Hits the Festival Circuit: Also attuned to ‘asset culture’, London-originated sneaker
care brand Crep Protect appeared at US festival Summer Smash this June with a booth offering co-
branded Sneaker Skins (waterproof footwear covers) and wipes.

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 Loewe’s Concept Store Upholds its Culture of Craft: Consolidating its commitment to craftsmanship as
central to its brand positioning, Spanish fashion house Loewe’s new ReCraft concept store in Osaka’s
Hankyu Umeda department store is its first specialising in repair, recycling and adjustments. A full-
time leather artisan offers services ranging from restitching and edge painting, to eyelet, rivet and
handle replacement, while a retail section stocks bags created via surplus leathers from past
collections.

Lululemon’s Align Legging Dupe Swap Leverages Eco Longevity: While seen as empowering to some
consumers, the likelihood of poor materials makes dupe culture – creating cheap replicas of more
expensive items – a false economy, and ecologically damaging. Canadian athleisure brand Lululemon
channelled this with its May 2023 campaign, Align Legging Dupe Swap, an amnesty-esque concept
where those who had bought fakes could return them – without judgement – and receive a pair of the
real thing. See The Brief for more.

Allbirds’ Carbon Cost Receipt Add-Ons: Also playing to the pragmatic mindset, after becoming the
first fashion brand to label every product with its carbon footprint in 2020, New Zealand-American eco
footwear label Allbirds began adding the carbon cost of all items to receipts this April. Jodie Soussan,
its managing director for Europe, told Stylus that the addition has been “extremely well-received by
customers so far”.

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Consumers want brands to be more practical and
clearer in their advice. The more [carbon] receipts they
get, the more attuned to the issue they’ll get.
Sustainability can’t be closed off from real life anymore;
it must be woven into everyday brand conversations […]
attached to where people eat and shop. It’s less about
sustainability per se, [and more about] understanding
impact.

Kirsten Siegler
Co-Founder & Managing Director, VBC

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Make It a Movement: The Beta Eco-mmunities Empowering Youth
With 70% of global 16- to 25-year-olds seriously concerned about climate change (World Economic
Forum, 2022), the imperative to offer eco agency to Gen Z – a famously co-creation-expectant cohort – is
huge. Puma, Coach, H&M, Adidas and Greenpeace are all exploring collaborative, participatory and
(mostly) cannily profile-boosting activism via young vloggers and documentarians (among others) to help
establish new, anti-corporate eco languages.

We know from our research that people want to be

seen to be doing good. People generally care most
about being seen by others to be caring, So, if you can
make it a culture thing, make it cool to be part of this
collective, make them feel good about how they’re
perceived. That’s going to be extremely positive.

Kirsten Siegler
Co-Founder & Managing Director, VBC

Puma’s Voices of a Re:Generation Collective Combats Corporate Info Fatigue: Puma’s Voices of a
Re:Generation project is ostensibly a sustainability incubator with a twofold mission. Young
environmentalists including British documentarian Alice Aedy, German vlogger Luke Jaque-Rodney,
American upcycler Andrew Burgess and French visual artist Jade Roche serve as a collective to
critique Puma’s eco strategy and appeal to the next generation where traditional corporate
communications are stalling.

Coach’s Coachtopians, the In-Beta Custodians of its Eco Relevance: At the core of Coach’s Coachtopia
is a collective it calls the Coachtopians – an invited, in-beta-style global “community of designers,
thinkers, makers and consumers to address the challenges we face and join us on the road to
circularity”. The network feeds their opinions on Coachtopia products, messages and other brand
concepts as they arise.

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 H&M Starts Early with Its Junior Changemakers: H&M has gone younger with its Junior Changemakers
– a programme in collaboration with international children's aid organisation KidsRights. Suggesting
that “courageous and curious” kids (aged six to eight) become their own role models, the online
videos- and games-based tool teaches them how to get involved in key topics, including sustainability.

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 Referencing the power of collectivism, the opening video forthrightly states: “It’s time to contribute
like other children do to make a real-life difference in the world.”

Adidas’s Move for the Planet Focuses on Unity & Community: Adidas’s Move for the Planet initiative
invited people to “turn activity into action” by pledging a donation of €1 to international charity
Common Goal for every 10 minutes of activity registered in its running app from June 1-12 (34 different
sports were eligible). The funds supported numerous global projects “using sports to educate and
engage communities on sustainability-based topics”. Pitched tonally as akin to a cultural movement,
the tagline read: “The planet needs you! Stop scrolling and move!” Meanwhile, an online and in-app
ticker showed the collective’s gains in real time.

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Project Optimism: Hopecore Content & Cultural Programming
The important summoning of a sense of possibility Siegler describes in section 1 also underscores the
projects harnessing hopecore – content centring both big-picture positivity and daily optimism, but
without disregarding reality or irony. Filtering into films, ads and branded literature, it’s a paradigm shift
taking messaging from climate crisis to climate hope.

Only 40% of luxury brands have been able to overcome

their fear of consumers as critics, thus only reassuring
them of their commitment to reducing negative
environmental impact. They forget to commit to
magnifying a better future – a sense of purpose that is
so critical to making an emotional connection with
consumers.

Alexandra van Bastelaer

Strategy Manager, Mano

Greenpeace x Tomorrow’s Warriors’ Pendulum Swing to Possibility: Greenpeace’s new anti-fossil-fuel

campaign film just aired on Glastonbury Festival’s main stages. It sees director Samona Olanipekun,
record producer Fraser T Smith and jazz talent development organisation Tomorrow’s Warriors (all
British) reimagine Fleetwood Mac’s 1977 song, Don’t Stop Me Now.

Depicting rowdy partygoers blissfully ignoring the carnage trailing in their wake, the hopeful rallying
cry of the short film comes from new lyrics by British rapper Avelino and a spoken word poetry piece-
to-camera: “Turn this right up to the highest decibel, ‘til our voices unsuppressible / Change doesn’t
come from songs and platitudes, but changes in laws and attitudes / It comes from action of the
greatest magnitude / But it results in a future full of love and gratitude.

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 Allbirds’ Earthrise Newspaper Epitomises Hopecore Storytelling: Allbirds has collaborated with eco-
centric media agency Earthrise to create a high-concept, visually lavish, limited-edition newspaper
called Allrise, spotlighting new green narratives and invitations to consider alternative future
scenarios.

Jodie Soussan, Allbirds’ managing director for Europe, says Allrise’s initial run of 3,000 newspapers –
held in its three London stores – is designed for “a multitude of demographics”, and features stories
from multifarious voices. These include Douglas McMaster, founder of the world’s first zero-waste
restaurant, Silo (London); Clover Hogan, who has created a visualisation tool to combat eco-anxiety);
and aerial photographer Tom Hegen, whose work includes documenting the traces humans leave on
the Earth’s surface. The centre page features a pull-out poster quoting author and environmental
activist Tamsin Omond: “We can create a future beyond the limits of our imagination.”

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While it’s important to understand the grave
consequences if change doesn’t happen, we’ve focused
on creating hope and bringing our community along
with us on our sustainability journey. As per our editor’s
letter, change starts with telling stories of possibility.
There is still hope; the future is yet to be written, but we
must all rise and make those first steps towards it.

Jodie Soussan
Managing Director for Europe, Allbirds

Woo Slides Hopecore from Content into Commerce: Gen Z-focused media platform and e-
marketplace Woo ran the piece ‘How to alleviate your eco-anxiety’ in April 2022, followed by a 2023
article detailing the nuances of hopecore itself. Both tailed with e-commerce lists (“The menswear
brands confronting fashion’s sustainability problem” and “The ultimate anti-anxiety shopping list”,

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 respectively). “The community wants to engage with [this content] because it’s an optimistic reflection
of reality,” says Woo’s founder and creative director Stephen Mai.

Southbank Centre’s Hopeful Cultural Programming: Bringing hopecore to the arts, London’s
Southbank Centre’s Planet Summer cultural programme of talks, performances, music and family
events is billed as a coming together for climate hope – a season for care, hope, connection and
activism.

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Gaming & The Metaverse Rally Players to Eco-Activism
Gaming and the metaverse’s virtual worlds remain fertile spaces for brands and publishers to galvanise
eco-activism, with the play-for-rewards mechanics conducive to introducing, teaching and/or exploring
new green practices and solutions. It’s a receptive audience: 63% of American video gamers feel a
personal sense of responsibility to help reduce global warming (Unity, 2022).
Little Singham Games Ask Players to Battle Plastics: For World Environment Day (June 5), Indian
entertainment group Reliance Games’ popular Indian kids’ mobile titles Little Singham and Little
Singham Cycle Race added plastic litter collection mechanics to the gameplay alongside information
on the harmful impact of plastics. The latter, a new game, was created in support of UN’s Playing for
the Planet Alliance, which educates gamers on sustainability while lobbying the industry on
decarbonisation.

Flooded Poses Regenerative Design: Flooded (released this March) is an indie game where island-
dwelling players must manage resources vanishing as a result of rising sea levels. Referred to as a
‘reverse city builder’, it encourages a focus on regeneration over rampant construction, and tackling
environmental devastation without over-moralising.

Xbox Eco-Smart Developer Toolkit: In March, Microsoft-owned Xbox unveiled a Sustainability Toolkit
equipping developers with instant visual measurement tools and engineering feedback to reduce
energy consumption in scenarios where players don’t need it.

See also Gaming Makes Sustainability a Reality in Pop Culture & Media Futures, 22/23.

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 H&M Looptopia Store Concept Arrives in Roblox: In January, H&M transmuted its ultra-popular in-
store Looop initiative (a pioneering garment-to-garment recycling machine in its Stockholm flagship
where visitors saw their unwanted garments cleaned, shredded and spun into yarn) into Loooptopia
on Roblox. Players travel across realms partaking in mini-games to source materials to feed into the
Looop machine, developing thousands of clothing possibilities and establishing a sense of the near-
limitless creative possibilities via reuse.

Creations can be showcased on the Looptopia runway or traded with others. Further impressing a
sustainable mindset, ‘recycling’ garments awards players with in-game points. It was created with UK
metaverse gaming studio Dubit.

Balenciaga Brings Sustainable Farming to WeChat: Attuned to parent company Kering's new eco
goals, in May, Balenciaga launched The Balenciaga Regenerative Agriculture Experience, a handheld
mini-game for Chinese messaging app WeChat, where players dressed their avatars in digital
renderings of the brand’s Chinese Valentine’s Day-specific 520 Somewhat improbably, the title
focuses on growing virtual crops (players have to tend to a small plot of land to keep their game alive)
and using regenerative farming techniques that are explained in simple terms, alongside their
benefits. An additional augmented reality element invites players to hold their phones up to their
physical surroundings to plant virtual crops.

The game channels another key eco-adjacent trend in virtual entertainment, cosy gaming, where
casual, gentle activities like fishing are favoured over aggressive shoot-’em-ups.

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Future Insights

Rethink Your Terms The terminology surrounding sustainability demands recalibration to

strike the most connective chords with consumers. In a socio-economic
climate where stability and a clear sense of leadership are highly valued,
focus on terms that creatively indicate a clear commitment to positive,
future-focused pathways. See Gucci Continuum for an example of how a
luxury brand has made this sentiment its own.
Honour Longevity, Hype The value of repair, protection and validation is being raised by
Pragmatism youngsters’ increased appreciation of pragmatism, the universal desire
for more explicit guidance on ecological impacts, and the deepening
perception of products as ‘assets’. But ensure you foreground and
integrate these spaces/services into your main brand proposition –
acknowledging how few consumers solely shop non-new, and how
important it is to not silo sustainability.
Harness a Hopecore The advent of hopecore – content centring both big-picture positivity
Mindset and daily optimism, but without disregarding reality or irony – is
spurring a paradigm shift in messaging. See Allbirds’ Allrise newspaper
and consider Siegler’s statement: “Some doom – [and] some reality – is
definitely needed, but it must be delivered with solutions and future
scenarios.”
Mobilise a Movement, Harness the power of collective pride, performance and even personal-
Create an Eco-Culture profile-raising to rouse a game-changing fanbase. Several key
campaigns involve in-beta network-based concepts that take people on
the eco journey as citizen participants, not just cohorts primed to
consume. Use their unique insights, credibility and understanding of
how to communicate to mobilise a movement with long-term mileage.
Get Into Gaming to Virtual worlds have an invaluable capacity to simultaneously educate
Initiate IRL Eco- and entertain, spurring highly positive, real-world behavioural shifts.
Behavioural Shifts From H&M’s Loooptopia, which celebrates the creative possibilities of
reuse, to games like Flooded, where empire-building is swapped for the
replenishing of resources and caretaking of nature, these concepts offer
a powerful route to shaping impressionable mindsets.

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