■ ■

PRACTICAL ELECTRICAL
INSTALLATION,
REPAIR & REWIRING
Other TAB books by the author;

No. 903 Do-It-Yourselfer’s Guide to Modern Energy-

Efficient Heating & Cooling Systems
No. 909 How To Build Metal/Treasure Locators
No. 923 How To Build Your Own Boat From Scratch
No. 996 Treasure Hunte/s Handbook
No. 1020 Automotive Air Conditioning Handbook-
Installation, Maintenance and Repair
No. 1126 55 Easy Outdoor Projects For Do-It-Yourselfers
 No. 925
$12.95

PRACTICAL ELECTRICAL
INSTALLATION.
REPAIR & REWIRING
BY JOHN E. TRAISTER

TAB BOOKS
BLUE RIDGE SUMMIT, PA. 17214
 FIRST EDITION

FIRST PRINTING—MAY 1979

Copyright © 1979 by TAB BOOKS

Printed in the United States of America

Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner, without express

permission of the publisher, is prohibited. No liability is assumed with respect
to the use of the information herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Traister, John E.
Practical electrical installation, repair and rewiring.

Includes index.
1. Electric wiring, Interior—Amateurs’ manuals. 2. Household
appliances, Electric—Maintenance and repair—Amateurs’ manu¬
als. I. Title.
TK9901.T66 644’.3 79-14326
ISBN 0-8306-9776-4
ISBN 0-8306-9774-8 pbk.
 Foreword
You easily will learn how to do professional quality elec¬
trical work with this 'comprehensive answerbook to all your
electrical questions. The emphasis is on practicality and
simplicity. There’s no complicated math to work out. Handy
look-it-up formulas and data tables are provided in the back of
the book. You’ll be able to make electrical repairs or add new
installations while you upgrade your electrical skills.
The first four chapters start you out with the basics you
need to get going: a quick rundown on tools; a brief course in
electricity; modern wiring techniques; and a complete mate¬
rials rundown. The remaining 20 chapters focus on specific
jobs and problems and, most importantly, on troubleshooting.
You get the straight facts on how to get a job done,
together with the problem-solving solutions you need to do it.
Maintenance is easy once the guesswork is removed and you
have all the information you need on testing for and repairing
any type of electrical fault.
Easy installation methods and procedures are fully de¬
scribed. Simple and clearly stated step-by-step instructions
guide you. And safety procedures are outlined to completely
take the risk out of working with electricity so you can get the
job done efficiently, inexpensively, and safely.
 Contents
Tools for Home Electrical Work.11
Screwdrivers—Side-Cutting Pliers—Long-Nose Pliers—
Diagonal-Cutting Pliers—Adjustable Wrench—Claw
Hammer—Wood Chisels—Hacksaw Frame & Blades—Step
Ladder—Electric Drill—Voltage Tester—Soldering Iron—
Compass Saw—Folding Rule—Gripping Pliers—Work Safety
Considerations

O Understanding Electricity: How It Works....23

^ An Electrical System—A Typical System

3 Wire Joints.....30
Stripping & Cleaning Wires—Types of Wire Splices—Wire
Connections—Soldering—Taping Electrical Wire Joints

4 Electrical Materials for Home & Farm.48

Cable Systems—Raceway Systems—Use of Different Wiring
Systems—Using EMT—Outlet Boxes

5 Troubleshooting the Home Electrical System.61

Types of Electrical Faults—Test Procedures

6 Adding Duplex Receptacles..71

Plan Ahead—Concealed Wiring in Accessible Spaces—
Calculating Receptacles Per Circuit

7 Installing Light Switches......88

Installation—Installing Surface Metal Molding—Installing a Wall
Switch in Plastered Wall—Other Switch Applications
 Why Walk in the Dark?..105
8 Three-Way Switches—Four-Way Switches—Three-Way Switch¬
ing System Installation—Low-Voltage Remote-Controlled
Switching—Application of Low-Voltage Switching

9 Ready to Tackle 240-Volt Circuits?.119

Layout of 240-Volt Circuits—Practical Applications

Update Your Own Electric Service.132

10 Correct Size of Electric Service—Installation of Service
Equipment—Pole Metering—Partial Updating of Electrical Ser¬
vice

Grounding—A Life Saver.152

11 Equipment Grounding—Portable Appliances & Hand Tools—
Summary of Equipment Grounding

Lighting the Home’s Interior.164

12 Selecting Lighting Fixtures-Hnstallation of Lighting Fixtures

Outdoor Lighting.175
13 Installing Outdoor Farm Lighting—Installing Outdoor Residential
Lighting

14 What About Motors?.

Capacitor-Start Motor—Split-Phase Motor—Capacitor-Start
188
Capacitor-Run Motor—Repulsion-Start Induction-Run Motor-
Universal Motor—Shaded-Pole Motor—Electric Motor
Maintenance—Typical Applications of Electric Motors—Motor
Repairs

15 Why Overcurrent Protection?.199

Plug Fuses—Cartridge Fuses—Circuit Breakers—Selecting
Proper Overcurrent Protection

16 Lightning Protection for the Home & Farm.207

Lightning Rods—Lightning Arresters

17 Television Systems in the Home.221

Antenna Head—Preamplifier—Rotor—Masts—Lead-In Ca¬
ble—Couplers—Antenna Signal Splitter—TV Outlets—Master
Antenna TV System

18 Music All Through the House...233

Careful Planning—Installation

Notice Your Guest.244

19 Location of Chimes—Types of Chimes—Installation of a Two-
Note Chime

Security Systems.
20 Smoke Detection Alarms—Surface-Mounted Fire/Security Sys¬
252
tems
 Built-In Central Cleaning Systems. 262
21 Planning the Tubing System—Installing Tubing & Fittings—Final
Checkout

Installing Add-On Air Conditioning.289

Mounting the Condensing Unit—Installing the Cooling Coil—
Installing the Refrigerant Tubing—Installing the Electrical Wiring

Electronic Garage Door Controls..299

Why Have One?—Installation—Optional Accessories

Major Appliance Considerations.306

Compactor—Disposal—Refrigerator & Freezer—Clothes
Washer—Clothes Dryer—Room Heater—Water Pump—Waste
Aerator—Room Air Conditioner—Dishwasher—Sump Pump—
Barbecue & Smoker—Vent Fan—Food Center—Wall Toaster—
Firelogs—Humidifier—Evaporative Cooler—Microwave Oven

Glossary 319

Appendices

I— Manufacturers of Residential Electrical Products.330

II— Wiring Tables.336
III— Electrical Formulas.343
IV— Lamp Data.349

Index.399
 Chapter 1
Tools for Home Electrical Work
1 II ll III IlilMlIlM——lllijim

Some homeowners already have a home workshop with some

equipment and tools suitable for work on electrical systems.
Others will have to start from scratch. But whatever the
situation, the homeowner who wishes to work on his own
electrical system need not put a strain on his pocketbook. He
can purchase the few tools most necessary and add to them as
the need arises.
In general, tools of high quality are the cheapest in the
long run. If the homeowner selects tools of good quality, uses
them properly and takes good care of them most will usually
last a lifetime. A list of the more common and necessary ones
for home maintenance are as follows:
■ Several screwdrivers of various sizes
■ Side-cutting pliers
B Eight-inch diagonal cutting pliers
■ Long-nosed pliers
■ Adjustable wrench
■ Claw hammer
■ Wood chisels, one narrow and one wide
■ Hacksaw frame and blades
■ Step ladder
■ Quarter-inch electric drill
■ Assortment of drill bits

11
 ■ Voltage tester
ffl Soldering iron
11 Compass saw
M Six-foot folding rule
■ Gripping pliers commonly known as Channel Locks
In addition to this list, one should obtain an ohmmeter tester,
which may be a combination volt-ohm-milliammeter. Since
the ohmmeter measures resistance in an electrical circuit it
can be used to locate many electrical defects. An inexpensive
multimeter will cost approximately $20 to $30. This may have
to wait until a definite need arises before the purchase would
be warranted.

SCREWDRIVERS
The ordinary screwdriver with a steel shank and wood or
plastic handle is fine for home electrical repair work. They are
classified by size, according to the combined length of the
shank and blade. In shank sizes they run 2 ¥2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10
and 12 inches. The diameter or thickness of the shank and the
width and thickness of the blade tip which fits into the screw
slot are proportional to the length of the shank. A 6-inch and a
10-inch screwdriver should take care of the majority of home
electrical repairs. However, always select the size of screwd¬
river so that the thickness of the blade makes a good fit in the
screw slot even if you have to make a quick trip to the local
hardware store to purchase a new one. A good fit not only
prevents the screw slot from becoming burred and the blade
from being damaged, but also reduces the force required to
keep the screwdriver in the slot.
Phillips-type screw heads have become very popular in
recent years especially on housing and different forms of trim
on electrical apparatus. The heads of these screws have two
slots which cross at the center; this prevents the screwdriver
from sliding sideways out of the slot and marring the finish of
the trim, etc. Three shank lengths of Phillips
screwdrivers—4, 6 and 8 inches, will handle all Phillips-head
screws commonly encountered around the home. A typical
Phillips screwdriver and screw are shown in Fig. 1-1. Com¬
mon Phillips sizes range between 0 and 3 with sizes 1 and 2
being the most common.

12
Fig. 1-1. A typical Phillips screwdriver and screw.

SIDE-CUTTING PLIERS
Since most of the homeowner's electrical work will con¬
sist of wire cutting and wire connections, he will need a pair of
6- or 9-inch regular side-cutting pliers. These are commonly
known as linemen’s pliers, and they have a cutting edge on the
side. They are used to cut wire and cable and also to make
splices, that is, to twist the ends of two wires together to form
a connection. Many people also use these pliers to strip
insulation from wire.
In purchasing a pair of side-cutting pliers make certain
that the handles are insulated to provide protection against
electrical shock. Also hold the pliers up to the light and look
through the cutting edge to make certain that the cutting
edges meet throughout their entire length. Unless the cutting
edges meet in this manner the pliers are no good for cutting
wire.
Pliers, like all other tools, should be kept clean. An
occasional drop of oil on the joint pin will keep the pliers
working freely and easy to use.

LONG-NOSE PLIERS
Another type of pliers used in electrical work is the
long-nose pliers. A pair of 8-inch long-nose pliers should be
perfect for electrical work. Again, make certain that the
handles are insulated.
Long-nose pliers are useful for recovering washers,
nuts, etc. that get into a place where it is hard to reach. They
are also ideal for making wire eyes (see Fig. 1-2) for connect¬
ing to a screw connector on a receptacle or light switch.
However, long-nose pliers should never be used to twist
leads of wire together since the jaws of the pliers will eventu-

13
 Fig. 1 -2. A wire eye for connecting to
a screw terminal.

ally become out of alignment and the points will not meet. The
twisting of leads together is a job for the linemen’s pliers.

DIAGONAL-CUTTING PLIERS
Diagonal-cutting pliers or dikes are good for trimming
wires close to the point of connection so that loose ends
cannot come in contact with other wires or grounded circuits.

ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
Adjustable wrenches are very similar to the common
open-end wrench except for having one adjustable jaw. This
type of wrench is often called a Crescent wrench. An 8-inch
size should be just about right for the homeowner.
Adjustable wrenches are not intended for hard service
like the open-end wrenches. Whenever it becomes necessary
to exert any amount of force on an adjustable wrench to
tighten or break loose a nut always place the wrench on the
nut so that the pulling force is applied to the stationary jaw side
of the handle. After placing the wrench on the nut tighten the
adjusting knurl so that the wrench fits the nut snugly. Figure
1-3 shows the right and wrong way to use an adjustable
wrench.

14
CLAW HAMMER
There are many types of hammers, but for home electri¬
cal work, a straight-claw hammer, sometimes called electri¬
cian’s hammer, will be the most useful.
The hammer handle should always be tight in the head.
Never work with a hammer having a loose head as the head

A: RIGHT WAY

B: WRONG WAY

Fig. 1-3. Adjustable wrench. (A) Correct way of using an adjustable end or
crescent wrench. Notice that the pressure is applied to the nut by the wrench and
not the adjustable jaw. (B) Incorrect method of using the adjustable end wrench.
This time pressure is applied to the adjustable jaw.

15
may fly off and either injure someone or damage surrounding
items.

WOOD CHISELS
Wood chisels usually are used in electrical work in notch
beams, joists, studs, etc. for outlet boxes, cable, and conduit.
A 3/4-inch blade will be used for wire or cable notches while a
2-inch blade will find use in notching wood for outlet boxes.
The cutting edge of a chisel must of course be sharp in order
to cut, and the sharpness is best maintained by buying wood
chisels of high quality and using them only for jobs which they
are intended.

HACKSAW FRAME & BLADES

The homeowner will find many uses for a good hacksaw;
cutting armored cable, electrical conduit, etc. A cheap
hacksaw frame is next to worthless so only the best should be
purchased. Only the better quality blades will hold up for all
kinds of electrical work.

STEP LADDER
Many homeowners will invariably use a rickety old chair,
box, or some other unsafe means to change a lamp or to do
other overhead work that cannot be reached from floor level.
To continue this practice is certain to make it necessary to
collect on the person’s hospitalization insurance. A sturdy
6-foot step ladder is not expensive and can save a broken leg
or a more serious accident. Buy only wood or fiberglass
ladders for electrical work and never paint any ladder other
than with clear varnish.

ELECTRIC DRILL
A quarter-inch electric drill is desirable for boring holes in
studs and joists to accommodate electrical cable. Some elec¬
tric drill suppliers furnish complete kits containing all sorts of
attachments fitting the drill. Some also include a small stand
which converts the small drill into a drill press, which is useful
for drilling holes in outlet boxes or other components. Drill
bits should include three high-speed wood boring drills—

16
14-inch, %-inch and 114-inch—and a set of high-speed metal
boring drills from Vs-inch to l/2-inch.
A variable-speed drill will be the most useful especially if
a set of masonry drill bits are also included.

VOLTAGE TESTER
The first rule when working with electricity is to discon¬
nect the circuit on which you plan to work. However, this is
not always foolproof in preventing electric shock because the
wrong fuse or circuit breaker may be disconnected by mis¬
take. Therefore, a voltage tester is absolutely necessary to
assure that no voltage is present in the circuit on which you
are working.

Fig. 1-4. Simple test lamp made from a pig tail lamp socket, a few feet of wire
and two test probes.

17
Fig. 1-5. Method of testing a duplex receptacle for voltage.

Figure 1-4 shows a simple test lamp that you can make. It
consists of a 40-watt lamp, a pigtail lamp socket, and a few feet
of wire. With this test lamp you can test for the presence of
voltage, thus locate an open faulty circuit or else insure that
the circuit you wish to work on is disconnected.
To make this test lamp you will need two lengths of AWG
#12 insulated wire. Remove a half-inch of insulation from one
end of each wire leaving the bare wire exposed. Then remove
%-inch of insulation from the other end of each wire, and bend
an eye or hook in this end.
Remove 3/4-inch of insulation from both lead wires from
the pigtail lamp socket. Wrap one of the bare leads around the
hook on one length of the AWG #12 wire, then the other.
Squeeze the hook on each lead closed then solder and tape the
connection.
Once the lamp is screwed into the socket the test lamp is
ready for operation. The remaining half-inch of bare wire on
the two ends will be used for testing live electrical compo¬
nents and should never be touched; always grip the test leads
well back on the insulated part.
To see how effective this test lamp can be insert one lead
into one slot of a 120-volt AC receptacle, then the other lead

18
into the opposite slot of the receptacle (see Fig. 1-5). If
voltage is present, the 40-watt lamp will light.
If you plan to work only on 120-volt circuits then the test
lamp just described will be sufficient. However, it cannot be
used in its present form to test 240-volt circuits as the lamp
will bum out immediately if subjected to voltage much higher
than 120 volts. But this lamp may be modified as shown in Fig.
1-6 for use on 120 or 240 volts. The only difference in the two
is that two pigtail lamp sockets are connected in series using
two 40-watt lamps. When the test lamp is used on 120-volt
circuits the two lamps will bum very dim; when 240-volt
circuits are tested, the lamps will bum to full brilliance.
As mentioned earlier, you may want to purchase a volt-
ohm-milliammeter or multimeter, especially if you intend to
do much troubleshooting of your own electrical system. Such
a tester is shown in Fig. 1-7. These multimeters have several
scales across the meter face that correspond to voltage,
current and resistance. Many electrical tests may be per¬
formed with this type of instrument that will be described in
later sections of this book.

SOLDERING IRON
While solderless connectors will be used for the majority
of modem electrical repairs it sometimes becomes necessary

Fig. 1-6. Modified version for use on either 120- or 240-volt circuits.

19
Fig. 1-7. Voltmeter-ohmmeter that may be used to perform many of the tests
described in this book.

to solder various electrical connections. The soldering irons

have electric heaters built into them. When the iron is plugged
into a receptacle, current flows through the heating element.
The heat is developed and is conducted to a copper tip. The tip
is held against the joint to be soldered.
The soldering gun is a variation of the soldering iron.
Both are used for the same type of work, but instead of a
heating element and a separate tip in soldering irons, the
soldering gun uses a loop of copper or copper alloy which acts
as the heating element and the tip. A transformer in the gun’s
case supplies high current at low voltage which permits the
gun to heat and cool quickly. This is a definite advantage over
the soldering iron.
COMPASS SAW
When new outlets need to be added around the home,
the compass saw usually is the tool used to cut out the
opening. It can also be used to notch wood studs and joists.
The homeowner will find many uses for the compass saw.
Since the cost of the best is very low get the highest quality
possible with a couple of equally find blades.

FOLDING RULE
This item needs no introduction as the need of measuring
is obvious. Again, always buy a good quality rule and take
good care of it. You will find yourself needing it quite fre-

20
quently on nearly every electrical job you perform around the
house.

GRIPPING PLIERS
These pliers can be used as a wrench if the work load is
not too heavy and can speed up many operations. One use is
to tighten pipe threads when using conduit (pipe) to enclose
the electrical conductors. They also come in handy when any
type of gripping is needed or for tightening nuts, etc.
Many homeowners have a workshop in their homes,
such as in a vacant room, basement, attic or outbuilding. This
would be a fine location to store your tools, but unlike a project
such as building a bookcase or coffee table in a home work¬
shop, electrical repairs require that the tools be moved to the
location of the repair. Therefore, a toolbox or pouch becomes
necessary to transport your tools from room to room where
the repairs are to be made.
A leather pouch is recommended for small hand tools,
such as screwdrivers, pliers, etc., while a suitable toolbox is
recommended for the larger and heavier tools, such as a
hammer, drill motor, and compass saw. This allows the
proper tool to be located with little difficulty and also protects
the tools against damage.
Looking back over this chapter the tools recommended
may seem excessive to some. But these are the minimum
with which the homeowner can perform the common phases
of electrical repairs. In almost any project the reader attempts
he will find, in a very short period of time, all the tools
mentioned will be used.
The tools mentioned will also come in handy for other
home repairs such as fixing a leaking faucet, repacking a
plumbing valve, etc. So the tools will not be used solely for
electrical work.

WORK SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

There are common safety rules which anyone who uses
electricity should follow, but there are additional rules which
every homeowner must consider every time he works on an
electrical repair job. Here are a few basic principles he must
keep in mind.

21
Overloading a circuit is the major cause of trouble in
electrical systems in the home. Overloading is
dangerous because it not only causes electrical fai¬
lures, but also can cause fires if improperly fused.
Never work on any electrical circuit when it’s hot;
always disconnect the power, then check with a
voltage tester to double-check that you discon¬
nected the correct circuit.
Avoid working in cramped surroundings where, if
you did get an electrical shock, you would not be
able to get away from shock source immediately.
Never grab any electrical wire even if you are sure
that no voltage is present without first testing it
lightly with you finger, keeping your other hand in a
pocket. This may seem ridiculous to you, but this
gives us a little more insurance to prevent danger¬
ous electrical shock.
Never fuse an electrical circuit greater than the wire
current-carrying capacity.
Electrical connections should be secure so they will
not work loose with vibration or normal use.
Take your time. Hurry reduces caution and invites
accidents.
When working on concrete floors, outside or in
similar areas where your body becomes grounded
when it contacts the surface on which you are stand¬
ing, use a wooden board to stand on or else wear
rubber-soled shoes.
 Chapter 2
Understanding
Electricity: How It Works

Electricity is the major source of energy for operating many

appliances and equipment in the home and around the farm.
Yet, in most cases, most people take this form of energy for
granted. They know that all they have to do is turn a switch on
an electric range to cook, flip a wall switch for light or turn up a
thermostat for heat. There are times, however, when die
flipping of a switch may produce only a slight click with no
other reaction. This is the time when it pays the homeowner
to have a basic working knowledge of electricity so that the
problem can be corrected.
Rather than get into a comprehensive study of the elec¬
tron theory or nature of electricity, we will be more con¬
cerned with what electricity will do for us, how it can be
controlled, how to install electrical equipment and what to do
when things go wrong.
First, in order for electricity to be useful, it must be in
motion, that is, dynamic electricity. Static electricity (stand¬
ing still), except in a few cases, is no more useful to us than
water standing still in a garden hose. The faucet may be
turned on like an electric generator operating to produce
electricity, but if the nozzle is closed (like no load connected to
the generator) the water is not in motion and is useless until
the nozzle is opened to let the water out. Likewise, the

23
 Fig. 2-1. An electrical circuit con¬
nected to a potential voltage source
with no load connected.

electricity is not in motion until some electrical load is con¬

nected to the circuit to produce a flow of current.
For example the circuit in Fig. 2-1 shows a battery
connected to a two-wire circuit. An electrical potential is
present, but since no load is connected to the circuit no
current flows through the wires. However, if an electric lamp
is connected to the circuit as shown in Fig. 2-2, an electric
current will flow to produce useful electricity and light the
lamp.
When electricity is in motion it provides the most effec¬
tive means known to date for carrying energy from one place
to another, and of changing one form of energy to another
form of energy.
To illustrate burning coal is a form of heat energy that
may be used to change water into steam to drive engines that
produce energy of motion. These steam engines are used to
drive electric generators which convert this mechanical
energy into electrical energy. The electric energy is trans¬
ported for great distances to factories, houses and farms
where the electric energy is converted into many other forms
of energy like light, heat, mechanical motion, chemical, sound
and radiation.
By now you should see that electricity is the universal
means for changing one form of energy into other kinds. It is
the only means by which we may transmit power in large
quantities from where it is cheaply or conveniently produced

24
to somewhere else many miles away where the power may be
used to an advantage.

AN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
In general, an electrical system may be classified into one
of several groups and may be defined as follows:
■ Source—the source of energy to drive the devices
(generators) to convert other forms of energy into electric
energy may include mechanical, heat, radiation and chemi¬
cal
■ Transformer—devices to increase the voltage at the
generators so that the current may be transmitted over
long distances with the least amount of loss
■ Transmission Lines—this group covers all the conduc¬
tors that carry the moving electricity from place to place
like from the generator or powerhouse to your city. It also
includes the insulation or insulators which prevent the
escape of electricity from the conductors
■ Controlling Mechanisms—this group consists mainly
of manual and automatic electric switches of several var¬
ieties
■ Step-Down Transformer—device to reduce the high
voltage of the transmission lines to a lower usable voltage
at the location of utilization

Fig. 2-2. An electric lamp connected to the circuit shown in Fig. 2-1 producing a
flow of electrical current.

25
■ Meters ^instruments to measure the amount of current
used at any given location.
■ Point of Utilization—at this point, apparatus is pro¬
vided for changing the moving electricity into some other
form of energy which can be used. In this group we find
motors (mechanical energy), storage batteries (chemical
energy), resistance heaters, lamps, etc.

A TYPICAL SYSTEM
A typical electrical system is outlined in Fig. 2-3. In this
illustration, some form of energy other than electricity is used
at the generating station to drive the generator. This energy
could be produced by coal, gas, water or atoms to name a few.
Let’s assume that the electricity is generated at a pres¬
sure of 11,000 volts. Before it reaches the transmission line it
is run through a transformer to increase the voltage to
138,000 volts so that the moving electricity can be transmit¬
ted over long distances. It finally reaches an area of utilization
such as a large industrial installation or a town or city substa¬
tion. Here the voltage is reduced somewhat; this could be
from 2300 to 15,000 volts.
The reduced voltage then continues over local power
lines to the various buildings requiring electric service. At
these points transformers are again used to reduce the vol¬
tage to a usable safer rate. For example, most farm and
residential applications will have three-wire electric service of
120/240 volts.
The electric service is run through an electric meter
before entering the building. Various circuits are utilized to
carry the moving electricity to lights, receptacles and other
outlets where the electricity is used or converted to some
other form of energy.
Since it is important for any homeowner to know
whether his home has an electrical system that is adequate for
carrying current to the many appliances and machines or not
we will dwell on this last category somewhat.
The drawing in Fig. 2-4 will give you an idea of what
constitutes adequate wiring in the average home.
First there should be three lead-in wires from the power
company’s pole to your home. This indicates that your service

26
 tr

27
Fig. 2-3. A typical electrical system from generator to load.
entrance is 120/240 volts. These service conductors will
travel through the power company’s meter to either a main
switch or main circuit breaker panelboard. The ampere rating
of either should be at least 100 amperes. If it is less, your
electrical system is probably overloaded.
Actually if you are planning to update your electrical
service a 200-ampere service is none too large. A service of
this size should handle all of your present electrical needs as
well as any future requirements. Of course, there are excep¬
tions. Some large all-electric homes may require an electrical
service of 800 amperes or more.
From the main switch or panelboard there will be several
120-volt appliances. It is recommended that all branch circuits
have a minimum wire size of AWG #12, but don’t get upset if
some of them are AWG #14. The National Electrical Code
permits the use of AWG #14 on all residential circuits except
those designed to carry small appliance loads as will be de¬
scribed later. Still, to keep voltage drop (reduction in voltage
at receptacle due to too small of wire gauge, etc.) to a
minimum most designers and contractors will recommend
using AWG #12 throughout the home.
You will also find 240-volt circuits feeding such items as
your electric range, electric heat, water heaters, clothes
dryer, etc. The size wire used for these circuits will vary from
AWG #12 AWG to AWG #6 or higher (the smaller the
number the larger the wire size).
Regardless of the circuit or type of electrical load con¬
nected, all should be protected with some form of over cur¬
rent protection like a fuse or circuit breaker. Proper splices,
insulation, switches, and proper grounding are other points to
be considered for adequate wiring and all of these will be
covered in later chapters. However, before getting into the
finer points of your electrical system, the following list gives
some signs to look for in the home to determine if your
present wiring is inadequate:
■ Fuses blow or circuit breakers trip often
■ Outlets and light switches seem scarce when you
need them
■ Lights dim or flicker when heavy appliances are
used

28
 FROM HIGH-VOLTAGE/TRANSFORMER
GENERATORS / LINES / ^
----
—*—'
k / 120/240V 1 r i— ■ \

POLES DROP
1 1f
ELECTRIC
METER i
SERVICE WIRES-

PANEL BOARD
hi
Jt ■ ~ - <"
*

j
BRANCH
CIRCUITS TO
LIGHTS,
RECEPTACLES,
ETC.

Fig. 2-4. An example of what constitutes adequate wiring in the home.

■ Television picture shrinks when heavy appliances

are used
■ Extension cords are in common usage around the
home
■ Appliances are slow starting and slow operating,
plus electric motors overheat easily
If you have noticed any of the preceding signs occurring
in your home you should have the wiring checked immediate¬
ly, either by following instructions given in this book or by
having your local electrical contractor check your wiring.

29
Chapter 3
Wire Joints

In working with wires for any electrical system or device it is

necessary to make numerous connections and splices of vari¬
ous types. Therefore anyone who anticipates working with
electricity should have a good knowledge of wire connectors,
splicing and soldering. Splices and connections that are prop¬
erly made will last as long as the wire itself or its insulation,
while poorly made connections will always be a source of
trouble and will overheat, injure their insulation and cause
high resistance in the circuit which could cause injury to life
and property.
The requirements for a good electrical connection are it
should be mechanically and electrically secure and continue as
such as long as the circuit is in operation, that is, it should be
electrically sound to carry the required load without overheat¬
ing, and mechanically strong enough to stand as much strain
or pull as the conductor or wire itself.
There are many different types of joints for different
purposes, and the selection of the proper type for a given
application will depend to a great extent on how and where the
wire is used. The types most commonly used in the home
around the farm is fully explained in this chapter.

STRIPPING & CLEANING WIRES

The first step in making any splice or connection is to
properly strip and clean the ends of the wire. Stripping means

30
Fig. 3-1. A tool used for stripping sheathing from type NM cable.

removing the insulation from the wire a distance from bet¬

ween 1 to 4 inches depending upon the size of wire and the
kind of splice or connection to be made. While experienced
electricians can do very well with a pocket knife or a pair of
side-cutting pliers in stripping wires of any size the
homeowner will find one of the special tools designed for this
purpose a great aid in stripping wires, especially those sizes
smaller than AWG #10. All such tools are inexpensive and are
constructed to prevent cuts or nicks in the wire. Cuts or nicks
in conductors reduce the conducting areas as well as making
the wire weaker at the point of the nick.
Figure 3-1 shows the use of one type of stripping tool in
stripping sheathing from type NM (Romex) cable. The strip¬
per is first inserting on the cable back from the end at the
desired distance, usually 8 to 10 inches for inserting in outlet
boxes. Pressure is then applied to both sides of the tool with
the thumb and forefinger. Then while holding the cable tightly
in one hand, the stripper is pulled towards the end of the cable
as shown in Fig. 3-2. The cut sheathing is peeled back and cut
neatly with either a pocket knife or a pair of cutting pliers (see
Fig. 3-3).

31
Fig. 3-2. illustration showing method of use of the tool in Fig. 3-1.

Once the sheathing has been removed from the cable,

the individual conductors may be stripped with the tool as
shown in Fig. 3-4. This tool has several round openings for
various wire sizes; select the proper opening, clamp the tool
on the conductor at the desires distance from the end and
while holding the conductor tightly in one hand pull the tool
towards the end of the wire which will remove the insulation.
The one-shot stripping tool in Fig. 3-5 can be a great
time-saving device when many wires need to be stripped.
Merely place the end of the wire in the jaws of the tool and
clamp down on the handles in a way similar to using a pair of
pliers. The insulation is stripped from the wire immediately in
one operation.
The stripping tools previously described are usually
manufactured for wire sizes AWG #10 and smaller. Although
stripping tools are manufactured for the larger size wires their
cost makes them impractical for the average homeowner.
Therefore, a pocket knife should be used for stripping the

32
Fig. 3-3. Method of removing sheathing from NM Cable.

Fig. 3-4. Another type of tool used to remove insulation from individual conduc¬
tors in the cable.

33
Fig. 3-5. Use of a one-shot tool for removing insulation from conductors.

larger size conductors. The knife, as shown in Fig. 3-6, should

be held in a position similar to that used when sharpening a
pencil, and the insulation cut through at an angle as shown.
Never cut the insulation straight through as it is very
easy to nick the wire when cutting in this manner; it some¬
times makes a more difficult splice to properly tape.
After cutting through the insulation and down to the wire
let the blade slide along the wire, stripping the insulation to
the end. Several passes may be necessary to remove all of the
insulation. In doing so, keep the blade side of the knife almost
flat against the wire so it does not cut into the metal.
Once the insulation is removed from the conductor the
wire should be scraped with the back of the blade to remove all
traces of insulation. Do this until the wire is thoroughly clean
and bright as this insures a good electrical contact as well as
insuring that solder will adhere readily. If the wire is tinned do
not scrape deep enough to remove the tinning if the joint is to
be soldered. Rather, leave on as much as possible as it makes
soldering easier. When cleaning the ends of the wires, emery
cloth may be used in place of the back of the knife blade for a
neater job.

34
Fig. 3-6. Position of knife when used to remove insulation from conductors.

TYPES OF WIRE SPLICES

There are dozens of different wire splices for different
uses, but for the wiring repairs and additions around the farm
or in the home four types should suffice. They are rattail,
Western Union, simple tap and fixture-wire splice.
The rattail splice (Fig. 3-7) is the type most often used to
splice conductors in outlet boxes. To make this splice strip
and clean about IV2 inches on the end of each wire. Then twist
them together a few turns with your fingers. Finish the turns
with a pair of pliers until the twists are very tightly wrapped

Fig. 3-7. Rattail splice.

35
around each other. Be certain that one wire does not remain
straight while the other wraps around it as this will enable the
wires to slip or shift upon each other. In making this or any
other splice the splice itself should be tight and strong before
any type of wire connector or solder is applied.
After the rattail splice is completed it may be soldered
and taped as will be described later. However, for this type of
splice various wire connectors (see Fig. 3-8) are much faster
than soldering and are highly recommended for rattail splices
in outlet boxes where there is no strain on the wires.
If the wires are stripped to the proper length before the
wire nut is applied no further insulation will be required as can
be seen in Fig. 3-9. However, in Fig. 3-10 the insulation was
stripped too much and bare unprotected wires remain ex¬
posed. When this occurs the wire nut should be removed and
the wire recut to allow the wire nut to fit properly with no bare
wires showing. For added protection, a small piece of electri¬
cal tape may be applied to the wire nut around the opening on
the bottom, but usually this is not necessary.
When a tap or branch wire is to be connected to a feeder
wire, such as overhead wires running from building to building
around the farm, a simple tap splice as shown in Fig. 3-11 may
be used. For this splice strip about 1 inch of insulation from the
main feeder or running wire at the point of the tap, and about 3
inches on the end of the tap or branch wire. The stripped wire

36
Fig. 3-9. Correct method of securing conductors with a wire nut.

Fig. 3-10. Incorrect way of securing conductors with a wire nut; notice the
exposed wires.

37
Fig. 3-11. A simple tap splice.

should be cleaned as described earlier before wrapping the 3

inches of tap wire tightly around the main feeder wire. Make
approximately from five to eight turns around the feeder as
shown in Fig. 3-11. The wires should be tight enough so that
they will not slide or slip.
After the splice is made the joint can be soldered and
taped, but a solderless lug, such as the split bolt connector
shown in Fig. 3-12, may be used instead for a faster and
simpler connection. Once the splice is wrapped, insert the
split bolt connector over the splice, tighten with wrenches,
then tape. If this or any other splice is exposed to outside
weather conditions the tape should be of the all-weather type.
For splicing straight runs of wire such as overhead
feeder wires around the farm or various appliance cords in the
home, the Western Union splice is one of the oldest and most
commonly used. It is very strong and can withstand consider¬
able strain and pull. This type of splice can be used on both
large and small wires.
To begin the Western Union splice strip and clean ap¬
proximately 4 inches of insulation on the end of each wire.
Then hold the ends together tightly with your hands or pliers
as shown in Fig. 3-13A. Continue twisting the wires together
a couple of turns as in Fig. 3-13B. Then wrap the end of each
wire around the other wire in five or six neat and tightly
wrapped turns as shown in Fig. 3-13C. The splice is com¬
pleted by clipping the ears or ends of the wires, then pinching
them down tightly with pliers. The finished splice should
appear as shown in Fig. 3-13D.

38
Fig. 3-12. A tap made with a soiderless lug.

Fig. 3-13. Procedure for making a Western Union splice.

39
Fig. 3-14. Procedure for making a double Western Union splice.

When making a double Western Union splice such as in

an appliance cord, always stagger the joints so that each splice
lies next to original insulation as shown in Fig. 3-14. Figure
3-14A shows how the ends of the wires are stripped uneven¬
ly, then Fig. 3-14B how the wires are spread to make run for
the splices; finally Fig. 3-14C shows how the finished splice
appears prior to soldering a taping.
Factory-wired light fixtures normally are furnished with
stranded fixture wire smaller than the branch circuit feeding
the lighting outlet. At times, a tight splice is very difficult with
wires of different sizes, especially if one of the wires is
stranded. A fixture splice as shown in Fig. 3-15 will normally
provide a good splice after soldering or when a wire nut is
installed.
This type of splice is made by wrapping the smaller wire
around the larger wire a few turns. Next the larger wire is
bent back over the turns in the smaller wire. Then finish
wrapping the smaller wire around both sections of the larger
wire before soldering or using a solderless wire connector.

40
WIRE CONNECTIONS
We have just covered splices, that is, the joining of two
or more pieces of wire together. Wire connections are used to
connect a wire to an electrical device, such as as receptacle,
wall switch, pump control switch, etc.
The homeowner will probably encounter wiring devices
with screw terminals more often than any other type. The
simple eye connection is the one to use for such terminals. To
make the eye in the wire, strip and clean approximately 1 to
IV2 inches of insulation from the end of the wire first. With
your long-nose pliers, make a slight bend in the wire near the
insulation and at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Con¬
tinue by bending the wire (above the first bend) in the oppo¬
site direction and at different points to form a circle in the wire
as shown in Fig. 3-16. The eye may then be placed under the
screw terminal andi tightened. Always place the eye under the
screw head so that the direction of the second bend in the wire
is the same as the direction the screw will be tightened. This
will cause the eye to close tightly around the screw threads. If
the eye is reversed the eye will open and be loose around the
threads (see Fig. 3-17).
One type of wire connectors is shown in Fig. 3-18. Some
of these are used for connecting wires to screw terminals. To'
install on a wire strip and clean a length of insulation from the
wire exactly the length of the slot on the connector. Insert the
bare end of the wire in the open slot, then crimp the slot down
tightly against the wire with a pair of pliers or crimping tool.
With the wire now secure in the connector the connectors eye

Fig. 3-15. A fixture splice.

41
Fig. 3-16. Sequence for making an eye in a wire.

42
Fig. 3-17. Incorrect method of placing eye on a screw connector.

or ears are inserted under the screw head of the terminal, and
the screw is then tightened for a sound electrical connection.
Other types of wire connectors are available, and direc¬
tions of their proper use normally will be found on the carton in

Fig. 3-18. One type of wire connectors.

43
which they are packaged. Some require special tools for
proper use, but most may be used for electrical splices and
connnections with conventional hand tools.

SOLDERING
Although the soldering of electrical joints is seldom done
in this day and age due to the variety of solderless lugs and
wire connectors there may be times when the knowledge of
soldering "Wfll come in handy around the farm or home. Or
perhaps your preference will be to solder for a joint that will
normally last a lifetime. In any case, the next few paragraphs
will give basic instructions on methods used for proper solder¬
ing of electrical wires and joints.
To heat the wire and melt the solder a soldering gun or
iron is used as described in Chapter 1. The tip of this device
must be kept well cleaned, tinned, and heated for proper
soldering. If the soldering tip is not hot enough, the solder will
melt very slowly and become pasty, instead of flowing freely
as it should.
It is generally agreed that solder of approximately forty
percent tin and sixty percent lead is best for electrical work. It
can be bought in the form of long bars, solid wire solder, and
resin-core wire solder. The latter is very convenient for use
by the homeowner as the resin carried in the hollow wire acts
as a flux, automatically applied as the solder melts.
When soldering a wire splice place the heated soldering
tip against (below) the wire splice to heat the wire; hold the tip
so that as much area of the splice as possible comes into
contact with it. Then melt a small drop of solder on the
soldering tip by placing the solder wire in between the tip and
the splice. This drop of solder should melt almost instantly and
will provide a much greater area of metal-to-metal contact
between the tip and the splice. This will cause the heat to flow
into the splice many times faster, heating it thoroughly in a
very few seconds.
Then, while still keeping the soldering tip hot and in
contact with the bottom of the splice, run the solder wire
along the top of the splice, allowing the melted solder to run
down through the turns, until a good coating of solder covers
the entire splice. However, never allow too much solder to

44
Fig. 3-19. Illustration showing the soldering of an electrical joint.

melt on the splice that will leave a large bulge; allow just
enough so that a good coating remains on all turns of the
splice. Figure 3-19 shows the soldering of an electrical joint.

TAPING ELECTRICAL WIRE JOINTS

All soldered wire joints should be taped carefully to
provide the same quality of insulation over the splice as over
the rest of the wires.
Soldered joints in rubber-insulated wires should be co¬
vered with rubber and friction tape while joints in
thermoplastic-insulated wires should be covered with
pressure-sensitive thermoplastic adhesive tape, such as
Scotch No. 33 for indoor use or Scotch No. 88 for outside use.
For covering rubber-insulated wires apply the rubber
tape to the splice first to provide air and moisture tight
insulation. The amount applied should be equal to the insula¬
tion that was removed. Then the friction tape is wrapped over
the rubber tape to provide mechanical protection.
For joints in thermoplastic-insulated wires, just the one
tape is necessary, that is, Scotch No. 33 or No. 88. To start

45
Fig. 3-20. Method of starting the taping of a splicer joint.

Fig. 3-21. A properly wrapped electrical joint.

46
the taping of a splice or joint, start the end of the tape at one
end of the splice (see Fig. 3-20) slightly overlapping the
insulation on the wires. Stretch it slightly while winding it on
spirally. When the joint is completely covered with layers
equal to the original insulation press or pinch the end of the
tape down tightly onto the last turn to make it stick in place. A
properly wrapped electrical joint is shown in Fig. 3-21.

47
Chapter 4
Electrical Materials
for Home & Farm

The wiring method and materials on a given project in the

home or around the farm are determined by several factors,
namely, the requirements set forth in the National Electrical
Code and Local Ordinances, the type of building construction,
the location of the wiring in the building, the importance of the
wiring system’s appearance, and the relative costs of different
wiring methods. In most instances, however, only two basic
wiring methods will be used for home and farm electrical
systems. They are sheathed cables of two or more conduc¬
tors and what is termed as “raceway” systems.
In addition to these two basic wiring methods they may
be further divided into two general divisions, which are open
or exposed wiring and concealed wiring.
In open wiring systems, the outlets and cable or raceway
systems are installed on the surfaces of the walls, ceilings,
columns, etc. where they are in view and readily accessible.
Such wiring is often used in basements, attics, bams, garages,
and outbuildings, where appearance is not important and
where it may often be desirable to make changes in the wiring.
Concealed wiring systems have all cable and raceway
runs concealed inside of walls, partitions, ceiling, columns,
and behind baseboards or molding where they are out of view
and not readily accessible. This type of system is generally

48
 used in all new construction with finished interior walls, ceil¬
ings, floors, etc., and is the preferred type where a good
appearance is important.

CABLE SYSTEMS
There are four types of cable systems normally found in
residential construction.
■ Nonmetallic sheath (NM) cable
■ Armored (BX) cable
■ Service-entrance (SE) cable
■ Underground-feeder (UF) cable

Nonmetallic Sheath Cable

Nonmetallic sheathed cables are manufactured in two-
and three-wire types with varying sizes of conductors. The
jacket or covering consists of rubber or plastic. A typical
example of NM cable is illustrated in Fig. 4-1. This type of
cable may be concealed in the framework of residential type
buildings or, in some instances, may be run exposed on the
building surfaces.

Armored Cable
Armored cable (called BX) is manufactured in two-,
three- and four-wire assemblies, and with varying sizes of
conductors. It is used in locations similar to those where type
NM cable is used. The metallic spiral covering on BX cable
offers a greater degree of mechanical protection than type
NM cable, and the metal jacket also provides for a continu¬
ously grounded system without the need of additional ground¬
ing conductors. This type of cable may be used for underplas-

AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE NO.

MAX VOLTAGE RATING
NO. OF CONDUCTORS
TYPE OF CABI
WITH GROUND

14-2G ANACONDA DUTRAX TYPE NM 600V

Fig. 4-1. Nonmetallic (NM) sheath cable.

49
ter extentions as provided in the National Electrical Code, and
embedded in plaster finish, brick, or other masonry, except in
damp or wet locations. It also may be run or fished in the air
voids of masonry block or tile walls except where such walls
are exposed or subject to excessive moisture or dampness or
are below grade.

Service-Entrance Cable
Type SE (service-entrance) cable, when used for an
electrical service must be installed as required in the National
Electrical Code. This type of cable may be used in interior
wiring sytems provided all the circuit conductors of the cable
are insulated with rubber or thermoplastic insulation.
Service-entrance cables without individual insulation on the
grounded circuit conductor cannot be used as a branch circuit
or as a feeder within a building, except when the cable has a
final nonmetallic outer covering and when supplied by alternat¬
ing current not exceeding 150 volts to ground. It may be used:
M As a branch circuit to supply only an electric range,
wall-mounted oven, counter-mounted cooking unit
or clothes dryer
■ As a feeder to supply only other buildings on the
same premises. It cannot be used for a feeder ter¬
minating within the same building in which it origi¬
nates

50
 LOCKNUT BUSHING COUPLING_CONDUIT_

Fig. 4-3. Rigid conduit with its related coupling.

Underground-Feeder Cable
Type UF (underground-feeder) cable may be used un¬
derground, including direct burial in the earth, as a feeder or
branch-circuit cable when provided with overcurrent protec¬
tion (fused) at the rated ampacity as required by the National
Electrical Code. When type UF cable is used above grade
where it will come in direct contact with the rays of the sun its
outer covering must be of the sun-resistant type.

RACEWAY SYSTEMS
A raceway wiring system consists of an electrical wiring
system in which two or more individual conductors are pulled
into a conduit (pipe) or similar housing for the conductors after
the raceway system has been completely installed. The basic
raceways are rigid steel conduit, electrical metallic tubing
(EMT), and PVC (polyvinylchloride) plastic. Figure 4-2
shows EMT with its related couplings and connectors, while
Fig. 4-3 shows rigid conduit with its related coupling.
Other raceways include surface metal moldings (Fig.
4-4) and flexible metallic conduit (Fig. 4-5).
These raceways are available in standardized sizes and
serves primarily to provide mechanical protection for the
wires run inside and, in the case of metallic raceways, to
provide a continuously grounded system.
Metallic raceways, properly installed, provide the
greatest degree of mechanical and grounding protection, and
provide maximum protection against fire hazards for the elec-

Fig. 4-4. Surface metal raceway.

51
Fig. 4-5. Flexible metallic conduit.

trical system. However, metallic raceways are more expen¬

sive to install, and for this reason, cable systems are normally
used the most in home and farm electrical systems.

USE OF DIFFERENT WIRING SYSTEMS

The selection of the proper wiring method is mainly
determined from two factors. One is the use of special mate¬
rial required by different types of building construction. The
other is from the different uses for which the electrical system
is designed.
As an example, a homeowner may desire to install sev¬
eral lighting outlets and related wiring on a solid wood ceiling
with exposed laminated beams. Since appearance is very
important in this area, the wiring should preferably be con¬
cealed. However, due to the solid wood ceiling consisting of
2-inch thick tongue-and-groove boards with a built-up roof on
top, concealing the wiring is very difficult to do. Still, a neat
wiring installation can be had by using surface metal raceway
such as shown in Fig. 4-6.
Another example might include a basement in a home
where type NM or BX cable is used for wiring in the exposed
wood ceiling joists; however, EMT or surface metal raceway
would probably be used to feed the surface-mounted recepta¬
cles and wall switches on the masonry basement wall.
A service-entrance mast (Fig. 4-7), extending from a
meter base located on carport through the roof in order for the
power company’s service drop to be connected, will almost
always be installed in rigid metal conduit, while the load-side
wires extending from the meter to the main electric switch or
panel could either be installed in conduit (raceway system) or
else consist of SE cable. Another ground wire, consisting of
bare copper, will be used to ground the electric service to a
cold water pipe entering the house.

52
 Overhead wiring supplying electricity to various build¬
ings around the farm can be installed with single conductors
secured to insulators either on a pole or mounted on buildings.
Or two- and three-conductor cables of the proper type could
be used.
Outside underground wiring can be run in raceways
(PVC or rigid conduit) or can be buried directly in the ground
provided certain code regulations are followed.
Most of the wiring methods covered in this chapter can
be installed with conventional hand tools such as the ones
described in Chapter 1. If factory-made bends, threadless
couplings and special fittings are used, even conduit systems
can be installed with only hand tools. However, if the installa¬
tion of EMT or rigid conduit is anticipated, the user will find
that an inexpensive hand bender and the knowledge of its use
will come in handy when kicks, offsets and saddles are re¬
quired in the conduit. If you purchase a new EMT or conduit
bender most of them will have complete instructions packed
with them that tells exactly how to bend conduit to practically
any shape or dimension. However, the basic requirements of
conduit bending and installation follow to give you an idea of
what the job entails.

Fig. 4-6. Example of a new wiring installation using surface metal raceway.

53
 SERVICE MAST & FITTINGS
FURNISHED BY CUSTOMER ENTRANCE CAP

SATISFACTORY FITTING
GUYING OR BRACING
REQUIRED ABOVE 6'
SERVICE BRACKET (FURNISHED BY COMPANY)
MIN. 2" GALV. RIGID CONDUIT 100 AMPERES
MIN. 2Vz" GALV. RIGID CONDUIT 150-200 AMPERES
(ALUMINUM MAST PROHIBITED)
-ADJUSTABLE FLASHING SEAL

FLASHING. SEAL WITH COMPOUND

CONDUIT SUPPORT OR
APPROVED PIPE STRAP

"A" MINIMUM OF 3'

MIN. MAST SIZE 2" GALV. RIGID CONDUIT
(ALUMINUM MAST PROHIBITED)

ECCENTRIC FITTING

METER (FURNISHED & INSTALLED

BY COMPANY)

METER SOCKET (FURNISHED BY COMPANY &

Mr MAX j’g" INSTALLED BY CUSTOMER)

FINISHED GRADE LEVEL

Fig. 4-7. A service-entrance mast.

USING EMT
There are special tubing cutters on the market to cut
EMT, but most of these cutters leave a large burr, and often a
definite hump, inside the conduit. Therefore, most experi¬
enced electricians prefer to use a regular hacksaw with 32-
teeth-per-inch blades when cutting EMT. If the cut is made
square, only a small burr occurs on the inside which can
quickly be reamed out with a special reamer; the end of a pair
of side cutting pliers or a square shank screwdriver will also do
for reaming most sizes of EMT.

54
Fig. 4-8. EMT offset connector. Fig. 4-9. EMT factory elbow.

The usual installation of EMT requires many changes of

direction in the runs, ranging from simple offsets where the
conduit enters outlet or panel boxes to more complicated
angular offset and saddles to miss various obstacles encoun¬
tered in the run. However, if you find the bending of conduit
impractical for you at this time there are various fittings
available to get around any hand bending at all. For example,
an EMT offset connector (Fig. 4-8) can be used at box termi¬
nations. Factory elbows (Fig. 4-9) may be used to make
90-degree bends. Conduit boxes (Fig. 4-10) may be used for
any number of changes in direction of the conduit run without
the need of bending the EMT with a hand bender. A junction
box (Fig. 4-11) may also be used to make a 90-degree bend;
merely run one conduit into the side of the box and begin the
next piece out of the bottom.
To join ends of EMT together use EMT couplings (Fig.
4-12) of the proper type, that is, concrete-tight, weather-
tight, etc. When terminating the ends of EMT into outlet
boxes you will need an EMT connector as shown in Fig. 4-13.

55
 Fig. 4-11. A junction box.

If you want to try your hand at bending EMT remember

that it’s going to take practice, lots of practice. Use a roll type
bender as shown in Fig. 4-14; this type of bender has high
supporting sidewalls to prevent flattening or kinking of the
tubing and a long arc that permits your making 90-degree
bends in a single sweep.
Bends at 90 degrees are made by placing the EMT on the
floor. Next measure and mark the conduit at the outer edge of
the bend. Insert the bender with its pointer at the mark you
made on the conduit. Then with your foot placed firmly on the
bender make a 90-degree bend.
A saddle is made by first bending the EMT at a 45-degree
angle (Fig. 4-15) at the point which will be directly over the
obstruction. Next, determine the length of the straight legs

Fig. 4-12. Conventional EMT coupling.

56
Fig. 4-13. EMT connector.

required to provide the necessary saddle rise. Complete the

saddle by making a 22.5-degree bend at the measured point
on each straight leg and in a direction opposite to the original
45-degree bend as shown in Fig. 4-16.

OUTLET BOXES
The type of outlet box selected for a given job must be of
a type for use with the wiring system you are installing (cable,
EMT, conduit, etc.) and must be large enough to accommo¬
date the number of wires which must be spliced or fed through
the box.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) stipulates that out¬
let boxes shall be of sufficient size to provide free space for all
conductors. Table 4-1 gives the trade sizes of the most
common outlet boxes along with their dimensions and the
number of conductors allowed in each.
Notice that Table 4-2 gives only the number of wires of
the same size allowed in each box. There will be times when
you will need to use a combination of different sizes in a single
box. In this case Table 4-3 should be used in sizing the outlet
box.

CT^
Fig. 4-15. First phase of bending a
Fig. 4-14. EMT roll-type bender. saddle in EMT.

57
 co cocoinh-^-ooincvjcoco^^coco^io
It

£
e
u o rtTtcocDCDCNjCNjooco'^^-LnLDi^^Lnco
T—
4t
o
o
Table 4-1. Outlet Box Specs & Number of Max Wires in Each

Q)
•O
E
3
CM M-lONOOM-M-OCO^iniflCOCOM-CDCO
T- T- T- 1- CM
X
re 5

rr
IO lO CO 1- ^^OCDCOCOlOlOCDh-OirOCDI^
O

fl ©OJT^CpcpOJCM^OJrvCO CD CO t- 05 CO
<Q . G’T-r>'SnSNl^SiS,s'c>-r-:_5^c6i-:coiD
a. s T-i-T-CMCMCOCO^t -i— 1— t-t—t-
© o
u —•

©L_
© © © ©
_ © © o o o
© © ©
o a ■>
© ©
© 3 o Z3 o O ■> >
c © CO CT CT
© © © ©
o
m
c c
o o © © ©
’> o
© ©
© ©
> "> •a
© ©
■a "O
UJ
© O) O)
. (Tf © © r*N T3 > "O X3
© •a ■a 'S? £
x ■
V“N
TO U)
© c o 3 ZJ T—
CM "D ;S $ £ CM
o o cy O’ £ £
OQ o
o o « w X X T- CM CM CM CM CO X X X
£ CD CO X X X X X X
2£ 'S?
7“X £ T“ £ £
CM
T— T— CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
X X
£ X X X X T* ■»— X X X X X X X X X
CO CO ’O’ "O’ O’ CO CO CO CO CO CO "O’

58
 Table 4-2. Outlet Box Selector Guide

COMBINATIONS OF #14 AND #12 WIRES

No. of Wires CUBIC-INCHES NEEDED No. of Wires CUBIC-INCHES NEEDED
In Box W/O CLAMPS CLAMPS & CLAMPS & In Box W/O CLAMPS CLAMPS & CLAMPS &
Ground Wire(s) ONLY 1 DEV. 2 DEVS. Ground Wire(s) ONLY 1 DEV. 2 DEVS.

2 #14 & 2 #12 13.00 15.25 17.50 6 #14 & 9 #12 36.75 39.00 41.25
2 #14 & 3 #12 15.25 17.50 19.75 7 #14 & 2 #12 23.00 25.25 27.50
2 #14 & 4 #12 17.50 19.75 22.00 7 #14 & 3 #12 25.25 27.50 29.75
2 #14 & 5 #12 19.75 22.00 24.25 7 #14 & 4 #12 27.50 29.75 32.00
2 #14 & 6 #12 22.00 24.25 26.50 7 #14 & 5 #12 29.75 32.00 34.25
2 #14 & 7 #12 24.25 26.50 28.75 7 #14 & 6 #12 32.00 34.25 36.50
2 #14 & 8 #12 26.50 28.75 31.00 7 #14 & 7 #12 34.25 36.50 38.75
2 #14 & 9 #12 28.75 31.00 33.25 7 #14 & 8 #12 36.50 38.75 41.00
3 #14 & 2 #12 15.00 17.25 19.50 7 #14 & 9 #12 38.75 41.00 43.25
3 #14 & 3 #12 17.25 19.50 21.75 8 #14 & 2 #12 25.00 27.25 29.50
3 #14 & 4 #12 19.50 21.75 24.00 8 #14 & 3 #12 27.25 29.50 31.75
3 #14 & 5 #12 21.75 24.00 26.25 8 #14 & 4 #12 29.50 31.75 34.00
3 #14 & 6 #12 24.00 26.25 28.50 8 #14 & 5 #12 31.75 34.00 36.25
3 *14 & 7 #12 26.25 28.50 30.75 8 #14 & 6 #12 34.00 36.25 38.50
3 #14 & 8 #12 28.50 30.75 33.00 8 #14 & 7 #12 36.25 38.50 40.75
3 #14 & 9 #12 30.75 33.00 35.25 8 #14 & 8 #12 38.50 40.75 43.00
4 #14 & 2 #12 17.00 19.25 21.50 9 #14 & 2 #12 27.00 29.25 31.50
4 *14 & 3 #12 19.25 21.50 23.75 9 #14 & 3 #12 29.25 31.50 33.75
4 #14 &4 #12 21.50 23.75 26.00 9 #14 & 4 #12 31.50 33.75 36.00
4 #14 & 5 #12 23.75 26.00 28.25 9 #14 & 5 #12 33.75 36.00 38.25
4 #14 & 6 #12 26.00 28.25 30.50 9 #14 &6 #12 36.00 38.25 40.50
4 #14 & 7 #12 28.25 30.50 32.75 9 #14 & 7 #12 38.25 40.50 42.75
4 #14 & 8 #12 30.50 32.75 35.00 9 #14 & 8 #12 40.50 42.75 45.00
4 #14 & 9 #12 32.75 35.00 37.25 10 #14 4 2 #12 29.00 31.25 33.50
5 #14 & 2 #12 19.00 21.25 23.50 10 #14 & 3 #12 31.25 33.50 35.75
5 #14 & 3 #12 21.25 23.50 25.75 10 #14 & 4 #12 33.50 35.75 38.00
5 #14 & 4 #12 23.50 25.75 28.00 10 #14 4 5 #12 35.75 38.00 40.25
5 #14 & 5 #12 25.75 28.00 30.25 10 #14 4 6 #12 38.00 40.25 42.50
5 #14 & 6 #12 28.00 30.25 32.50 10 #14 4 7 #12 40.25 42.50 44.75
5 #14 & 7 #12 30.25 32.50 34.75 11 #14 42 #12 31.00 33.25 35.50
5 #14 & 8 #12 32.50 34.75 37.00 11 #14 43 #12 33.25 35.50 37.75
5 #14 & 9 #12 34.75 37.00 39.25 11 #14 44 #12 35.50 37.75 40.00
6 #14 & 2 #12 21.00 23.25 25.50 11 #14 4 5 #12 37.75 40.00 42.25
6 #14 & 3 #12 23.25 25.50 27.75 11 #14 4 6 #12 40.00 42.25 44.50
6 #14 & 4 #12 25.50 27.75 30.00 12 #14 4 2 #12 33.00 35.25 37.50
6 #14 & 5 #12 27.75 30.00 32.25 12 #14 43 #12 35.25 37.50 39.75
6 #14 & 6 #12 30.00 32.25 34.50 12 #14 4 4 #12 37.50 39.75 42.00
6 #14 4 7 #12 32.25 34.50 36.75 12 #14 4 5 #12 39.75 42.00 44.50
6 #14 4 8 #12 34.50 36.75 39.00
COMEIINATIO NS OF #12 AND #10 WIRES
2 #12 4 2 #10 14.50 17.00 19.50 6 #12 4 2 #10 23.50 26.00 28.50
2 #12 4 3 #10 17.00 19.50 22.00 6 #12 4 3 #10 26.00 28.50 31.00
2 #12 4 4 #10 19.50 22.00 24.50 6 #12 4 4 #10 28.50 31.00 33.50
2 #12 4 5 #10 22.00 24.50 27.00 6 #12 4 5 #10 31.00 33.50 36.00
2 #12 4 6 #10 24.50 27.00 29.50 6 #12 4 6 #10 33.50 36.00 38.50
2 #12 4 7 #10 27.00 29.50 32.00 6 #12 4 7 #10 36.00 38.50 41.00
2 #12 4 8 #10 29.50 32.00 34.50 6 #12 4 8 #10 38.50 41.00 43.50
2 #12 49 #10 32.00 34.50 37.00 7 #12 4 2 #10 25.75 28.25 30.75
3 #12 4 2 #10 16.75 19.25 21.75 7 #12 4 3 #10 28.25 30.75 33.25
3 #12 4 3 #10 19.25 21.75 24.25 7 #12 44 #10 30.75 33.25 35.75
3 #12 4 4 #10 21.75 24.25 26.75 7 #12 4 5 #10 33.25 35.75 38.25
3 #12 4 5 #10 24.25 26.75 29.25 7 #12 4 6 #10 35.75 38.25 40.75
3 #12 4 6 #10 26.75 29.25 31.75 7 #12 4 7 #10 38.25 40.75 43.25
3 #12 4 7 #10 29.25 31.75 34.25 8 #12 4 2 #10 28.00 30.50 33.00
3 #12 4 8 #10 31.75 34.25 36.75 8 #12 4 3 #10 30.50 33.00 35.50
3 #12 4 9 #10 34.25 36.75 39.25 3 #12 4 4 #10 33.00 35.50 38.00
4 #12 4 2 #10 19.00 21.50 24.00 8 #12 4 5 #10 35.50 38.00 40.50
4 #12 4 3 #10 21.50 24.00 26.50 8 #12 4 6 #10 38.00 40.50 43.00
4 #12 4 4 #10 24.00 26.50 29.00 9 #12 4 2 #10 30.25 32.75 35.25
4 #12 4 5 #10 26.50 29.00 31.50 9 #12 4 3 #10 32.75 35.25 37.75
4 #12 4 6 #10 29.00 31.50 34.00 9 #12 4 4 #10 35.25 37.75 40.25
4 #12 4 7 #10 31.50 34.00 36.50 9 #12 4 5 #10 37.75 40.25 42.75
4 #12 4 8 #10 34.00 36.50 39.00 10 #12 4 2 #10 32.50 35.00 37.50
4 #12 4 9 #10 36.50 39.00 41.50 10 #12 43 #10 35.00 37.50 40.00
5 #12 4 2 #10 21.25 23.75 26.25 10 #12 4 4 #10 37.50 40.00 42.50
5 #12 4 3 #10 23.75 26.25 28.75 10 #12 4 5 #10 40.00 42.50 45.00
5 #12 4 4 #10 26.25 28.75 31.25 11 #12 4 2 #10 34.75 37.25 39.75
5 #12 4 5 #10 28.75 31.25 33.75 11 #12 4 3 #10 37.25 39.75 42.25
5 #12 4 6 #10 31.25 33.75 36.25 11 #12 44 #10 39.75 42.25 44.75
5 #12 4 7 #10 33.75 36.25 38.75 12 #12 4 2 #10 37.00 39.50 42.00
5 #12 4 8 #10 36.25 38.75 41.25
5 #12 4 9 #10 38.75 41.25 44.00

59
 If you were faced with the problem of selecting an outlet
box on a conduit system in which four AWG #12, two AWG
#10 and two AWG #8 wires will enter you can use the
following method. Since this is a conduit system the box will
contain no clamps, devices, ground wires, etc.
Two AWG #12 wires will have a volume of 4.5 (2.25 +
2.25) cubic inches; two AWG #10 wires will have a volume of
5 (2.50 + 2.50) cubic inches; two AGW #8 wires will have a
total volume of 6 (3.00 + 3.00) cubic inches. Adding these
figures together, we have a total of 15.5 cubic inches required
Table 4-3. Volume in Outlet Box Required by Conductor

AWG CU IN.

14 2.00
12 2.25
10 2.50
8 3.00
6 5.00

for all the wires. Now referring to Table 4-1 in we see that a
4-inch octagonal box, IY2 inches deep, has a capacity of 17.1
cubic inches and would suffice for our application.
The outlet box selector guide in Table 4-2 is also very
helpful for quickly selecting the proper size box for any given
combination of wires and is recommended for use by the
homeowner.

60
 Chapter 5
Troubleshooting
the Home Electrical System
The homeowner can save a great deal of time and money by
doing his own troubleshooting when a problem occurs in the
home electrical system. Even if an electrical contractor or
repairman has to be called in to correct the problem the
homeowner will still be money ahead by knowing the probable
cause when the repairman arrives.
Troubleshooting covers a wide range of electrical prob¬
lems from finding a short circuit in an appliance cord to tracing
out troubles in complex control circuits used around the
home. However, in nearly all cases, the homeowner can
determine the cause of the trouble by using an inexpensive
testing instrument and going about locating the troubles in a
systematic and methodical manner, testing one part of the
circuit or system at a time, until the trouble is located.
Always keep in mind that every electrical problem occur¬
ring around the home can solved. It is the purpose of this
chapter to show the reader exactly how to go about solving
the more conventional residential electrical problems in a safe
and logical manner.

TYPES OF ELECTRICAL FAULTS

In general, there are only three basic electrical faults,
namely, a short circuit, an open circuit, and a change in

61
electrical value. To illustrate let’s assume that several lights in
the home suddenly stop burning. The most probable cause of
this fault would be an open circuit caused by a blown fuse or
tripped circuit breaker. Either one would open the circuit to
which the lights were attached. Since the circuit is open no
current will flow in the circuit, as shown in Fig. 5-1, and the
lights would not burn. If, upon examination, the circuit
breaker is tripped then some fault in the circuit caused the
circuit breaker to trip in most cases. The faults could include a
loose wire at the panelboard causing the wire to heat and trip
the breaker, a short circuit developed by perhaps worn insula¬
tion on the wires or perhaps a change in electrical value by
plugging in a heavy appliance on the circuit which caused the
circuit to be overloaded.
If the trouble was found to be a loose wire at the screw
terminal on the circuit breaker remove the wire entirely from
the terminal to clean it because the excessive heat and arcing
probably formed a coating on the bare wire. Next, insert the
wire under the screw terminal, then tighten solidly. This
should solve the problem.
Should the problem be due to a short circuit, which is an
undesired current path that permits the electrical current to
bypass the load, the short must be found and corrected.
Methods of locating and correcting short circuits will be dis¬
cussed later in this chapter.
If the cause of the tripped circuit breaker was due to an
overloaded circuit then obviously the load on the circuit must
be lightened by disconnecting one or more devices plugged
into the circuit.

62
Fuses
On circuits protected by plug fuses the nature of the
problem can often be determined by the appearance of the
fuse window. For example, if the window is clear and the
metal strip appears to be intact, the fuse is probably not blown
and the problem lies elsewhere in the circuit. However, it is
best to check the fuse to be certain.
The best way to check a plug fuse is to unscrew it from its
socket and connect the leads of an ohmmeter or continuity
tester as shown in Fig. 5-2. If the fuse is good the pointer of
the ohmmeter will swing all away across the scale to zero; if a
continuity test lamp is used the lamp will burn. If the fuse is
bad, the pointer will not move at all nor will the test lamp burn.
Figure 5-3 shows how to test a plug fuse with a voltme¬
ter, or voltage test lamp, should an ohmmeter not be availa¬
ble. Place one lead of the test lamp on the neutral block in the
panelboard or fuse cabinet and the other on the load side
(usually the screw terminal where the hot circuit wire is
connected) of the fuse. If a full reading is obtained (110 to 120
volts) on the voltmeter or the test lamp lights to full brilliance
then the fuse is good. If the meter does not show a reading or
the test lamp does not light at all, then the fuse is more than
likely blown and the window of the fuse should be examined
very closely as this will usually give some indication of what
caused the fuse to blow.
If the window is clear but you notice that the metal strip
inside of the window is broken it was probably a light overload

63
Fig. 5-3. Method of testing plug fuse with a voltmeter.

that caused the fuse to blow. Perhaps an iron or toaster was

plugged in on the circuit. In any event, always check what
caused the overload before replacing the fuse with a new one.
A badly blackened fuse window normally indicates a
violent blowing of the fuse such as a severe overload or short
circuit. Again, always check all possible causes and conditions
in the circuit before replacing the fuse. In most cases you will
find that someone in the house has just connected a heavy
appliance on the circuit or perhaps someone stumbled over a

64
lamp cord causing the wires connected to the lamp to be
jerked loose and touch each other, thus shorting the circuit.

Short Circuits
A short circuit (Fig. 5-4) is probably the most common
cause of electrical problems in the home or around the farm.
Sometimes the short is between two wires due to faulty
insulation or else between one hot wire and a grounded
object.
In locating a short circuit all loads connected to the circuit
should be disconnected one at a time until the fault is found.
This can be done by unscrewing the fuse or place the circuit
breaker handle to the off position to insure that no line current
will flow in the circuit. Then attach one lead of an ohmmeter to
the load side of the circuit and the other to the disconnected
neutral conductor. Set the ohmmeter to the lowest ohms
scale. All appliances should be plugged in but switched off.
The pointer of the needle should swing to some point from
halfway to zero on the scale, which indicates a short in the
wiring. Have someone unplug all of the electrical devices
connected to the circuit until the pointer returns to its resting
point (no reading); this is the appliance that is giving the
trouble. A great many short circuits traced in this manner will
be found in defective cords of portable appliances and other
electrical devices.
If removing the various devices on the circuit does not
correct the short circuit then it must be in the circuit wiring
itself. When this occurs begin at the panelboard or fuse
cabinet and work along the circuit wiring, opening up the
various outlet boxes on the circuit and examining the wiring in

Fig. 5-4. Wiring diagram of a short circuit in an appliance cord.

65
each and making a test at each. In doing so all connections,
splices, etc. must be opened.
To illustrate suppose that the first outlet on the circuit
from the panelboard was a basement lighting outlet. With
the circuit breaker open or the fuse unscrewed the fixture is
removed. Then the splices in the outlet box are unwound and
loosened. If the ohmmeter shows no reading across the wires
from the fixture back to the panelboard, but the meter’s
pointer swings to zero between the two wires leading out of
the outlet box to another outlet, then we can assume that the
fault lies further along in the circuit.
Next the splices in the following outlet box are taken
apart to make another test with the ohmmeter. This time the
meter indicates that the circuit wires from the second outlet
back to the first outlet show a short, while the wires leaving
this second outlet and going to the next one are clear. There¬
fore the fault lies somewhere between the first and second
outlet. Now the going is easier because the fault is pinpointed
to a given area.
In most cases of this sort, short circuits in the wiring
system will occur at the outlet boxes where perhaps a wire
has vibrated loose from a terminal on a receptacle, switch, or
other wiring device. It has shorted the circuit by coming into
contact with another base wire or against the grounded outlet
box. At times, however, the trouble may be located between
the outlet boxes, especially if home repairs or remodeling has
just taken place. If so the short circuit could be caused by a nail
being driven through a piece of NM cable, or maybe the circuit
wires were accidentally cut during the remodeling. There are
any number of possible causes, but all can be located quickly if
the circuit is traced and the trouble is pinpointed as described
previously.

Loose Neutral Wire

Whenever some of the lights on the home electrical
system are found to be burning excessively bright while
others are burning very dimly, the likely cause is a loose
neutral wire somewhere in the system and especially at the
main switch or panelboard. If this problem occurs check and

66
tighten all neutral conductors on the panel board or main
switch neutral block terminals, including the service-entrance
neutral wire feeding the block.

Partial Ground Fault

A partial ground on a circuit is not only troublesome but
can needlessly run your electric bill up so that you are paying
for current you are not using. The majority of these partial
grounds will not trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse and the
fault will therefore continue for long periods of time without
the homeowner noticing it, except for a high electric bill.
If your electric bill does go up in cost without any good
explanation you probably have a partial ground on one of the
house circuits. Even if you haven’t noticed any great increase
in your electric bill it wouldn’t hurt anything to make periodic
checks for partial grounds about once each year.
First, leave every appliance, lamp and any other nor¬
mally operated electrical device plugged into their respective
outlet, but make certain that none or operating. Then look at
the dial on your electric meter to see if it is turning. If you are
certain that every electric device in your home (including
electric clocks) is not operating and yet the dial on the electric
meter still turns, then there is certain to be a partial ground on
one of the electrical devices.
To find which electrical device has the partial ground,
have someone watch the dial on the electric meter as you
begin unplugging and turning off the various devices one at a
time. When the dial stops, you have found the faulty device.
In the majority of ground faults or partial grounds found in
the home electric water heaters and electric pump motors
seem to be the main appliances developing the trouble. For
this reason these appliances should be checked first if the
initial tests indicate a fault.
The simple test to determine a partial ground will more
than likely be sufficient for most home electrical systems, but
there are some instances where this test cannot be used due
to the location of the partial ground. If the amount of your
electric bill indicates that it is higher than it should be and you
can find no faulty appliances by the method indicated, then
have the power company check their metering equipment. If

67
Fig. 5-5. Method of testing an incandescent lamp with ohmmetec.

the metering equipment checks out all right then your home
electrical system should be checked by the power company or
an electrical contractor with a megger instrument. Such an
instrument will locate any partial ground fault immediately.

TEST PROCEDURES
The following examples will show the reader how to test
and repair electrical appliances and circuits in the home and
around the farm. Every conceivable problem could not be
included, but the examples given should be sufficient for most
problems that normally occur.

Electric Lamps
Electric lamps, both incandescent and fluorescent, may
be checked with an ohmmeter or continuity test lamp. Figure
5-5 shows the position of the test leads for common incandes¬
cent lamps. One lead is held against the outer screw base
while the other lead is placed against the small contact point on
the bottom of the base. If the ohmmeter pointer remains at
infinity (<») or the test lamp does not light the filament is
burned out. However, if the test lamp lights or the ohmmeter
pointer swings slightly on the scale to any degree towards
zero the lamp is good.
Three-way lamps that have a special base and fit in a
special socket may be checked in a similar manner except that

68
the continuity check is made between the outer screw base
and each of the inner contact points.

Motor Operated Appliances

Small motor-operated appliances such as vacuum clean¬
ers, fans, clocks and blenders may be checked with the
ohmmeter by placing the instrument leads on the appliance
plug as shown in Fig. 5-6. The smallest motors such as those
used in electric clocks should show a reading of approximately
1000 ohms if the motor winding is good; around 50 ohms for
motors in fans, vacuum cleaners, etc., and approximately 5
ohms for larger motors such as those used to drive washing
machines, refrigerators and water pumps. Remember that
the smaller the motor, the higher will be the resistance (in
ohms) if the winding is good. Of course, the switch must be on
when making such resistance tests.

Heating Appliances
Tests on appliances with heating elements are made by
attaching the cord to the appliance and then placing the in-

69
strument or test light leads on the plug as shown in Fig. 5-6.
Coffee makers, irons, heating pads, and similar electric
appliances fall under this category.
An infinity (<*>) reading indicates that either the cord or
heating element is open; a zero reading indicates a short
circuit. Make certain the switch or thermostat is working. A
reading from 15 to 20 ohms indicates that the element is good.
If the reading indicates an open circuit remove the
appliance cord from the device. Connect the two wires to¬
gether on the end opposite from the plug. Then attach the
instrument leads. An infinity (°°) reading indicates that the
cord is open while a zero reading indicates that the wires
are okay.
Methods of troubleshooting various other household and
farm appliances, wiring devices, and electrical systems will be
covered in other chapters under their respective headings.
For example, troubleshooting overloaded branch circuits will
be covered in Chapter 6, overloaded electric services will be
covered in Chapter 10, etc.

70
 Chapter 6
Adding Duplex Receptacles

For new construction such as the building of a new house or

the addition of a new wing on an existing house, the National
Electrical Code specifically states the minimum requirement
for the location of receptacles in residential buildings:

...In every kitchen, family room, dining room..., receptacle

outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in
any wall space is more than 6 feet, measured horizontally, from
an outlet in that space, including any wall space 2 feet wide or
greater and the wall space occupied by sliding panels in exterior
walls... Receptacle outlets shall, insofar as practical, be spaced
equal distances apart. Receptacle outlets in floors shall not be
counted as part of the required number of receptacle outlets
unless located close to the wall....

Basically, this states that any appliance, table lamp, etc.

placed in any room in the residence and along the wall can be
plugged in an outlet with only a 6-foot extension cord from the
appliance; no additional extention cords would be necessary.
If one of your electrical devices required an extension cord
longer than 6 feet to operate the device anywhere in your
home, your outlets are not spaced according to the National
Electrical Code. However, if your home was built prior to
1960, don’t let this worry you, as few houses built before 1960
have this many duplex receptacles.

71
 Rather than begin a project to completely renovate your
home’s electrical system should it not come up to Code
standards, let’s look at the need for additional duplex recepta¬
cles from another angle. First, make a quick survey of all the
rooms in your home. If you found that several extension cords
are required to furnish all of your electrical appliances with
power, then it’s time to add additonal receptacles. Many of
these cheap extention cords are not only fire hazards, but also
make obstacles for you and your guests to trip over.
Are you finding that you are blowing fuses more often
than you should, or do some of the lights go dim when a
toaster or coffee maker is plugged in ? If so, then it’s time to
add additional receptacles and circuits.
Perhaps you have just purchased a new freezer or other
appliance, but the area you want it located does not have an
outlet to plug it into. Again, an additional receptacle is in
order.
Due to undersized wire and overloaded circuits many
home electrical systems cause energy losses—wasted
watts—in the form of low voltage. In other words, if your
electric service is rated at 120 volts at your main switch and if
your circuits are overloaded, there may be only 100 to 105
volts by the time the current arrived at the appliance to be
operated. Excessive voltage drop results in great losses to
the owners by having appliances (especially motor-driven
ones) operate at less than their normal efficiency; your
monthly electric bill therefore includes charges for watts
which you are not using. They are going through your meter,
but they are expended in your overloaded circuits and not the
electric appliances for which they are intended.
If you suspect that your electrical system is overloaded
you will be money ahead by correcting the situation. One step
could be to add additional duplex receptacles and new circuits
of the correct wire size.

PLAN AHEAD
In starting to install one or more duplex receptacles on
your present electrical system there are certain general steps
to be followed. Before cutting any openings in your walls or
running any wires look the situation over very carefully. In

72
doing so much material, labor and needless cutting and patch¬
ing can usually be saved.
When deciding upon the location of an additional outlet
try to locate it where electrical wiring can be installed easily.
For example, the best location would be where the structure
is open and readily available to receive the wiring such as in an
unfinished garage, attic, or basements. However, this is not
usually the case when additional outlets are installed in an
existing residence; rather, they are most often installed on
finished walls. Nevertheless try to locate the outlet so that the
wires can be fished from an opening in the attic or basement to
the new outlet by the easiest route.
The material used will depend upon the location of the
outlet and construction of the area through which the wires
must run. The following step-by-step methods for various
installation situations should suffice to give the homeowner
the necessary information to install duplex receptacles any¬
where in the home or around the farm.

CONCEALED WIRING IN ACCESSIBLE SPACES

The floor plan of an area in a home is shown in Fig. 6-1.
Note that a new duplex receptacle is to be installed on a
finished wall that is adjacent to an unfinished wall space.

73
 Fig. 6-2. Checking the height of an
existing receptacle in an area near
the one to be installed.

The first step is to remove the cover plate on one of the

existing receptacles in the area to check the height of this
outlet from the finished floor to the bottom of the outlet box as
shown in Fig. 6-2. This measurement will be used to lay out
the height of the new outlet.
Once the height of the new outlet is determined and the
approximate location is marked on the wall make certain that
the hole to be cut will clear any studs or other obstacles in the
finished wall. In this case, the position of the studs can be
checked visually by examining the unfinished attic space. In
areas where this is not possible, the position of the studs can
be found by light tapping on the wall surface; a dead sound
indicates that something is behind the wall while a hollow
sound indicates that the space is clear. A magnetic device may
be purchase for less than one dollar which can detect nails
driven into studs behind the wall if you have a tin ear.
After having exactly located the spot for the new outlet
box place the box against the wall and mark the outline of it on
the wall as shown in Fig. 6-3. Then with a wood bit drill two
holes inside of this marked area in opposite corners as shown

74
 Fig. 6-3. Marking the outline of the new outlet with an outlet box.

Fig. 6-4. Holes drilled inside of this marked area to allow for the insertion of a saw
blade.

75
Fig. 6-5. Cutting the hole for a new receptacle.

in Fig. 6-4. The holes should be large enough to allow the

blade of a keyhole or saber saw to start cutting out the
opening, as shown in Fig. 6-5.
With a screwdriver (Fig. 6-6) remove one of the knock¬
outs in the outlet box by inserting the blade in the slot,
bending the knockout outward and twisting until the small
piece of metal holding the knockout snaps. Then insert the
box in the opening until the face of the box is flush with the
finished wall.
At this point it is necessary to secure the box. There are
many different methods for this. The correct one will be
dictated by the type of box used and the accessibility of the
box. In this case since the other side of the wall is open we will
use two 16-penny nails to secure the box to the stud on the
opposite side from the finished wall. The secured box is
shown in Fig. 6-7.
Referring again to the floor plan in Fig. 6-1 you will notice
that an existing outlet is only a few feet away from the new
one. Since the existing circuit is lightly loaded we will use this
existing receptacle to feed the new one. However, before

76
Fig. 6-6. Removing a knockout from an outlet box with a screwdriver.

Fig. 6-7. Illustration of an outlet box secured with 16-penny nails.

77
Fig. 6-8. Testing outlet for voltage.

doing another thing make absolutely certain that the power is

turned off oh this circuit. This is done by inserting the test
leads into the outlet as shown in Fig. 6-8 while the outlet is
hot. Your voltmeter or test lamp should indicate that the
outlet is alive. Then, leaving the leads in the receptacle, turn
off the circuit breaker or pull the fuse providing overcurrent
protection for the circuit. If in doubt pull the main switch, but
still check the outlet afterwards with your voltmeter or test
lamp to insure that the outlet is dead.
Remove the two screws holding the duplex receptable in
the box as shown in Fig. 6-9. Pull the receptacle out of the box
as far as it will go without removing the wires attached to it.
Loosen the clamp inside of the box holding the wires. Remove
one of the knockouts from the outlet box as was described
previously. If NM cable is used, loosen the ground wire from
the box or receptacle.
With a drill and wood bit, drill holes in the studs to allow a
new piece of cable to be pulled from the existing outlet box to
the new outlet location (Fig. 6-10). Pull the cable through the
hole and allow about 1 foot excess on each end of the cable.

78
Fig. 6-9. Removing duplex receptacle from outlet box.

Fig. 6-10. Method of drilling holes in wall studs to accept electrical wiring.

79
Fig. 6-11. Illustration of cable ready to be inserted in an outlet box.

Strip approximately 10 to 12 inches of cable sheathing

from the cable as described in Chapter 3. Strip and clean about
IV2 inches from the ends of each wire inside of the cable. The
result should look like the cable in Fig. 6-11.
Insert one end of the cable through the knockout in the
new outlet box and under the cable clamp so that the clamp fits
over the cable sheathing, not the wires inside of the cable.
Repeat this on the opposite end of the cable, that is, at the
existing outlet (see Fig. 6-12).
In the existing outlet box wrap the bare ground wires
around each other with sort of a modified rattailed splice.
Insert one of the ground wires under a ground clip or else
under an approved ground screw secured to the metal outlet
box. Then place the other ground wire under the green
grounding screw on the receptacle.
Make an eye in the bare wire with white insulation, and
snug it under the light colored screw and tighten. Then do the
same with the wire with black insulation, and place it under the
brass colored screw and tighten. Replace the existing recep¬
tacle back in the outlet box, and install the cover plate.

80
 Now repeat the previous step on the end where the new
receptacle is connected. Before installing the receptacle or
cover make sure that all connections are tight and that no
insulation was damaged during the process. If you happened
to nick the insulation slightly during the installation tape the
nick with a small piece of electric tape.
Once everything is in place activate the circuit breaker or
replace the fuse for the circuit. You now have the use of
another duplex receptacle. Check both outlets again with your
voltmeter or test lamp to ascertain that they are working. If
you followed these procedures to the letter no trouble should
develop.
If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows, stop. Make
certain the circuit is turned off. Check your wiring for bare
spots or nicked insulation. It is shorting somewhere.
This installation just described was relatively simple in
that the unfinished attic allowed complete access to the out¬
lets and for installing the cable. However, as mentioned pre¬
viously this is not always the case. The wire may have to be
fished down the wall partitions from an unfinished attic above

Fig. 6-12. Illustration of wires inserted in outlet box.

81
Fig. 6-13. One method of fishing cable in existing wall partitions from an
unfinished attic above.

(Fig. 6-13) or from the basement below (Fig. 6-14). The basic
procedures are practically the same for the actual installation
as the previous example except that different types of box
holders will have to be used. The outlet box in Fig. 6-15 is
made for existing wiring and is fitted with i a wallboard hanger
attachment which will secure the box snugly to the wall
without the need of additional anchors.
To install a wallboard hanger box cut the hole in the wall
the exact size of the outlet box. Assemble box and hanger, but
only partially tighten bolt holding the assembly. Insert cable
into box and tighten cable clamp before pushing the entire
assembly into the wall hole until the sides of the hanger spring
free on the inside of the wall or partition. Tighten the assem¬
bly by tightening the bolt on the inside of the box. When tight

82
pressure on both the inside and outside of the wall gives the
box a rigid installation.
A number of methods have already been described for
pulling and fishing cables into walls and openings in existing
finished buildings. With a little ingenuity and careful planning
you will be able to solve almost any problem encountered.
In pulling cables into spaces between the joists in ceilings
or floors or between studs in walls, a flashlight or drop light
placed in or near the outlet box hole is often a great help in
fishing the wires in, or when catching them with a hook to pull
them out of the outlet opening.
Where it is necessary to remove floorboards,
baseboards, molding, door and window trim, etc. to route
wiring to outlets in the home (see Fig. 6-16) it should be done

Fig. 6-14. Method of fishing cable in wall partition from basement below.

83
Fig. 6-15. An outlet box designed especially for existing wiring.

with the greatest care so as not to split the boards and end up
with a poor looking job when the boards are replaced.
If you are in doubt about your ability as a carpenter, it
may be best to hire a carpenter to help if a lot of woodwork is
involved in installing the electric wiring. Or perhaps you would
rather install surface molding as will be described in Chapter 7
for running wiring to light switches.
Outlets installed outdoors or exposed to weather must
be protected. Receptacles should have weatherproof covers
as shown in Fig. 6-17, and the wiring must be approved for
use outdoors. Outlet boxes, connectors, etc. must also be of
the type approved for outdoor use.
Type UF cable may be buried directly in the ground for
feeding outdoor receptacles. If it is buried less than 18 inches,
some means of protection must be provided such as a treated
1- by 8-inch board laid over the cable.
Circuits feeding duplex receptacles on masonry walls
may be installed in conduit (Fig. 6-18), surface molding or, in
some cases, NM cable.

CALCULATING RECEPTACLES PER CIRCUIT

Most receptacles used for general use around the home
will be fused at no more than 15 amperes and will furnish
power to such items as table lamps, television sets, radios,
and stereos. Circuits containing such outlets should have no
more than eight receptacles on each circuit.
Two small appliance circuits fused at 20 amperes should
be provided for the kitchen and dining areas where small

84
Fig. 6-16. Method of removing floor boards in finished homes.

appliances such as toasters, coffee makers, etc. are likely to

be used. Besides these, an additional 20-ampere circuit
should be provided for the laundry area for the washer and
hand iron. AWG #12 wire is recommended throughout the
home.
For other receptacles feeding special appliances such as
milking machines, refrigerators, 120-volt air conditioners,
etc., check the nameplate rating of each to determine how
many receptacles may be installed on each circuit. In general,
no more than 1400 watts should be connected to a 15-ampere
circuit and no more than 1800 watts to a 20-ampere circuit;
1200 and 1500 watts respectively would be better.

Fig. 6-17. Duplex receptacle with weatherproof cover.

85
Fig. 6-18. Receptacle circuit installed in conduit on a masonry wall.

Fig. 6-19. Illustration of a ground-fault protector.

86
 Remember on all outside receptacles, the National Elec¬
trical Code states:
For residential occupancies all 120-volt, single-phase 15- and
20-ampere receptacle outlets installed outdoors shall have
approved ground-fault circuit protection for personnel....
A ground-fault protector, such as the one shown in Fig.
6-19, installed in your circuit breaker panel board with the
outside circuit connected will suffice to meet the code. Such a
device is not cheap (about fifty dollars), but what price is a life
worth? These devices will immediately de - energize the cir¬
cuit should a fault occur. This includes a person touching a live
wire on the circuit when he is grounded well enough so the
shock could kill him.

87
Chapter 7
Installing Light Switches

Many lighting control devices have been developed to make

the best use of lighting equipment. These include automatic
timing devices for turning lights on and off at desired intervals,
dimmers to achieve certain objectives in lighting and of course
the common light switch used in nearly every home and farm
in the nation. Regardless of the type of lighting the usefulness
and the convenience derived from proper switching is well
worth the small cost involved.
A wall light switch (Fig. 7-1) is a device used on branch
circuits to control lighting and most generally fall into three
basic categories:
ffl Snap-action switches
H Mercury switches
H Quiet switches
The first type consists of a device containing two stationary
current-carrying elements, a moving current-carrying ele¬
ment, a handle for the moving element, a spring and an
enclosure. When the handle is in the down or off position, as in
Fig. 7-2, no current can pass, and the light or lights on the
circuit will not burn. When the moving element is closed by
moving the handle to the up position, the circuit is complete
and the light will bum as shown in Fig. 7-3.

88
 Fig. 7-1. Wall switch.

Mercury switches consist of a sealed capsule containing

mercury. A handle is provided to tilt the capsule to allow the
mercury to float to one end to bridge two contact points to
close the circuit when it is in the on position, and to tilt the
mercury away from the contact points when the switch is in
the off position. Such switches offer the ultimate in silent
operation, but are much higher in price than either the snap-
action or quiet switch.
The quiet switch is a compromise between the snap-
action switch and the mercury switch. Its operation is consid¬
erably quieter than the snap-action switch, yet it is not as
expensive as the mercury switch. It is the most commonly
used switch for modem lighting practice and are manufac-

LAMP

I®,

Fig. 7-2. Light circuit with switch in

off position.

120 V sw
1

89
 Fig. 7-3. Light circuit with switch in
on position.

tured for loads from 10 to 20 amperes in single-pole, two-

pole, three-way, four-way, etc. types.
Many other types of switches are available for lighting
control. Besides three-way, four-way, and other switches to
control lighting from more than one location (see Chapter 8)
types such as the door-actuated type are common. The
door-actuated type is generally installed in the door jam of a
closet to control a light inside the closet. When the door is
opened, for example, the light comes on; when the door is
closed, the light goes out. The switch on your refrigerator or
freezer works in a similar manner.
There was a time when many lights around the home—
especially closet, basement and attic lights—were controlled
by a pull chain, causirg the homeowner to search blindly in the
dark for the blasted string. Today, however, there is little
excuse not to have wall switches on all lighting fixtures around
the home. Even receptacles serving table lamps can be
switched at the entrance door to the room.

INSTALLATION
A wiring diagram of a two-wire 120-volt circuit is shown
in Fig. 7-4 feeding a common pull-chain lighting fixture. To
install a wall switch, merely locate the switch, pull a piece of
two-wire cable from the lighting fixture to the switch and
connect according to the wiring diagram in Fig. 7-5. The light

90
Fig. 7-4. Wiring diagram of a 120-volt circuit feeding a lighting fixture with a
pull-chain switch.

fixture can then be controlled as seen in the diagrams in Figs.

7-2 and 7-3.
The basic installation of a wall switch is very similar to
installing a duplex receptacle as described in Chapter 6. That
is,
1. Locate the outlet box for the wall switch. Make sure
that no obstacle is in the wall where the outlet box

Fig. 7-5. Method of connecting a wall switch to the circuit in Fig. 7-4.

91
Fig. 7-6. Method of connecting switch-leg wires to the wall switch.

hole is to be cut and that you can route the wires

from the switch to the light in an easy manner.
2. Cut out the opening for the switch box. Install and
secure the box.
3. Pull the cable from the switch box to the lighting
fixture box.
4. Connect the switch leg (wires) to the lighting fixture
wires as shown in the diagram in Fig. 7-5.
5. Connect the switch leg to the wall switch as shown in
Fig. 7-6.
6. Secure switch to box and install the switch plate.
Replace the fixture.
The current should of course be turned off during any portion
of this work. The procedure for checking this is described in
Chapter 6.
In wiring existing homes, you will encounter the same
problems with pulling and fishing wires as was described in
Chapter 6. Sometimes, however, it is impractical to run the
wires concealed. Therefore, some alternate method must be
used. One such method is installing the switch leg and other
wires in surface metal raceway, sometimes called surface
molding or wire mold. A complete description follows.

92
INSTALLING SURFACE METAL MOLDING
When it is impractical to install the wiring in the home
concealed surface metal molding is a good compromise. While
it is visible proper painting to match the color of the ceiling and
walls makes it very inconspicuous.
It is made from sheet metal strips drawn into shape and
comes in various shapes and sizes with factory fitting to meet
nearly every application found around the home. A few of the
fittings available are shown in Fig. 7-7. A complete lists of the
fittings can be found by writing the Wiremold Company,
whose address is given in Appendix II of this book.
The running of straight lines of surface molding is simple.
A length of molding with the coupling slipped in the end is

93
 Fig. 7-8, Method of coupling links of
wiremold together.

SCREW--

shown in Fig. 7-8. This coupling is slipped out so that the

screw hole is exposed, and the coupling is screwed to the
surface to which the molding is to be attached (see Fig. 7-9).
Then slip another length of molding on the coupling as shown
in Fig. 7-10.
Factory fittings are used for comers and turns, or the
molding may be bent (somewhat) with a special bender.
Matching outlet boxes for surface mounting are also available.
Bushings are necessary at such boxes to prevent the sharp
edges of the molding from injuring the insulation on the wire.
Clips are used to fasten the molding in place. The clip is
secured by a screw, then the molding is slipped into the clip.
Wherever extra support of the molding is necessary a strap is
slipped over the molding and fastened by screws. When
parallel runs of molding are installed, they may be secured in
place by means of a multiple strap. The joints in runs of
molding are covered by slipping a connection cover over the
joints as shown in Fig. 7-11.
Such mns of molding should be grounded the same as any
other metal raceway. This is done by use of grounding clips as
shown in Fig. 7-12. The current-carrying wires are normally
pulled in after the molding is in place.
The installation of surface metal molding requires no
special tools unless bending the molding is necessary. The
molding is fastened in place with screws, toggle bolts, etc.,

94
Fig. 7-9. Method for mounting wire mold to different kinds of surfaces.

depending on the materials to which it is fastened. All molding

should be run straight and parallel with the room or building
lines, that is, baseboards, trims and other room molding. The
decor of the room should be considered first, and the molding
made as inconspicuous as possible. Figure 7-13 shows an
illustration of surface molding, including boxes and fittings, to
add a wall switch and related wiring to control a ceiling lighting
fixture in an existing home.
It is often desirable to install surface molding not used for
wires, in order to complete a pattern set by other surface

Fig. 7-10. Final step of fitting wiremold links together.

95
 \l

Fig. 7*11, Wire mold connection cover.

molding containing current-carrying wires, or to continue a

run to make it appear as a part of the room’s decoration.

INSTALLING A WALL SWITCH IN PLASTERED WALL

The method of installingj a duplex receptacle in a wall
where one side is open or unfinished was described in Chapter
6, and is a relatively simple operation. The same procedure
may also be followed for installing wall switches in a similar
area. Only the connections and, of course, the wiring device
will be different. However, for a step-by-step method ol
installing a wall switch, let’s take a more complicated problem,
such as the installation on an interior first-floor wall of a
two-level residence.
A cross section-of the house is shown in Fig. 7-14. This
section shows both floors of the residence, the interior parti¬
tions and their relationship to each other. The existing light
fixture is located approximately in the center of the room and
is now controlled by a pull-chain switch located in the fixture
itself. It is desired to install a new wall switch on the interior
wall which is near the entrance door to the room. We can see
immediately that the routing of the wires from the light fixture
to the switch location is not going to be easy because all of the
adjacent surfaces are finished with no immediate access.
Surface molding could be run, but it is desired to conceal all
wiring.

96
 Fig. 7-12. Wire mold grounding clip.

To begin remember that we should plan the installation

with the least amount of cutting and patching, and one good
procedure is as follows.
Locate the desired spot on the wall for the switch box.
Be sure that no stud or other obstacle (water pipes, etc.) are

Fig. 7-13. Wire mold used to add a wall switch to a ceiling lighting fixture.

97
in the partition behind this spot. The box hole should be
carefully marked by drawing a pencil around the outlet box,
held against the plaster. In locating the exact spot to cut these
openings in the plaster it is best to cut a very small hole in the
center of the marked area first, using this to locate the cracks
between the lath. Then it is possible to shift the mark for the
outlet box up or down a little so the lath can be cut properly as
shown in Fig. 7-15. Be careful not to cut the hole so large that
the switch plate will not cover it neatly.
Once the outlet box hole is cut go to the second floor.
Remove the quarter-round molding and baseboard along the
floor line above the partition where the outlet box opening was
cut. Be extremely careful not to .split the wood when remov¬
ing the trim. Next drill down through the second floor and
through the partition plate as shown in Fig. 7-16. Before
returning to the first floor guide a fish tape through the drilled
hole until the fish tape is near the outlet box opening on the

98
Fig. 7-15. Illustration of wall opening cut for new outlet box. Note the position of
the lath.

first floor. It is best if another person assists you with a

flashlight on the first floor. When he sees or hears your fish
tape near the outlet box opening he can snag it with another
fish tape, pulling it out the opening as shown in Fig. 7-17.
Your assistant then hooks his fish tape onto yours and
you pull his tape up through the wall partition plate but not

fig. 7-16. Position for drilling through the second floor to the wall partition below.

99
Fig. 7- 17. Method of using fish tapes to route wiring in existing partitions.

through the hole in the second floor. Rather, disengage your

fish tape from the other and pull yours out, leaving the other
tape end between the second floor and the first floor ceiling.
Now you can return to the first floor with your fish tape.
Remove the existing lighting fixture and its outlet box.
Make certain that the current is shut bff first. Then insert
your fish tape in the fixture outlet hole to snag the other tape
as shown in Fig. 7-18. Then pull it out the fixture outlet
opening. You can now easily pull the new cable from the
existing lighting fixture to thv? new wall switch opening.
Secure the cable (two wires with ground wire) to the fish
tape by twisting the wires around the fish tape hook, then tape
with friction tape. Next with the fish tape, carefully pull the
new cable through the void space between the two floors,
down through the hole drilled in the partition plate and finally
out through the switch box opening. Leave about 18 inches of
cable at each end.
Leave the white neutral wire connected to the lighting
fixture as it was before you removed it. Remove the black

100
Fig. 7-18. Another method of using fish tapes to help route the electrical wiring.

Fig. 7-19. With the switch wires connected to the lighting fixture it’s time to start
wiring the switch itself.

101
Fig. 7-20. Method of securing ground wire to a metal outlet box.

(hot) wire from the fixture, and splice it to the white wire of
the new cable pulled to the new wall switch. Use a wire nut to
secure the splice. While you are still at the lighting fixture
location connect the black wire of the new cable to the lighting
fixture, and replace the fixture to its outlet box (see Fig.
7-19).
Now for the other end of the cable. Strip about 12 inches
of sheathing from the cable, then approximately IV2 inches of
insulation from the wires inside of the sheathing. Place an
outlet box on the ends of the wires, and tighten the cable
clamp inside of the box. The box should have plaster ears.
Secure the box to the plaster lath with small wood screws (see
Fig. 7-15).
Secure the bare ground wire to the metal outlet box with
a ground clip as shown in Fig. 7-20. Do this before making an
eye in each of the remaining wires and securing each under
one of the screw terminals on the switch. The switch is then
fastened to the outlet box with the screws provided with the
switch itself. Then a wall plate is installed for a finished job.
If you should encounter bridging or a fire stop when
fishing the wires inside of a partition, you can cut a hole in the
plaster at the bridging, notch the wood, and run the wire

102
through this notch as shown in Fig. 7-21. The hole can then be
patched with spackling compound or similar patching material.

OTHER SWITCH APPLICATIONS

Sometimes it is desirable to install a dimmer control on
some of the lights around the home. For example, the dim¬
ming of a dining room light can create a mood of candlelight for
formal dining. The dimming of recreation room lights provides
a good atmosphere for viewing TV or for general conversa¬
tion. A hall light dimmed at night will serve as a night light
without using excessive current.
The dimming of incandescent lamps is best accomplished
by reducing the voltage by means of variable transformers,
magnetic amplifiers, saturable reactors, or electronic dim¬
mers which are now available for residential use. Most are
manufactured in various ratings from 300 to 2000 watts and
start at about five dollars for the smaller ratings and jump to
over one hundred dollars for the higher ratings.
Most types of residential lighting dimmers can be used to
replace a regular wall switch by merely disconnecting the two
leads from a single-pole switch, then connecting the two wires
to the two screw terminals provided on the dimming device.
Therefore, for all practical purposes the installation of most
dimmers is exactly like that of a wall switch.

Fig. 7-21. Method of bypassing bridging in a wall partition.

103
Fig. 7-22. Circuit showing time switch connected to a lighting circuit.

The photocell-controlled lighting circuit is a popular way

to add automatic control and convenience to outdoor lighting.
They are installed in a manner similar to regular wall switches
and complete instructions are included in the packing of each.
Another means of automatic control is the use of electric
timers. Timer switches can be set to open and close at
predetermined intervals and may be connected to the lighting
circuit as shown in Fig.7-22. Several models now available can
even compensate for the changing of the number of daylight
hours during the seasons and will faithfully perform their
function all year long.
Since the development of transistors and other solid-
state devices more sophisticated circuit controls have been
developed during recent years to perform all kinds of control
functions. For example, radio-control circuits can be used to
govern lighting just as they are used to control the opening
and closing of garage doors. Another application would be to
use one of these devices to control the exterior lighting
around the home, that is, to turn the outside lights on when a
car entered the driveway of your home.

104
 Chapter 8
Why Walk in the Dark?

Every room or area in the home having more than one entr¬
ance door would have lighting control at each entrance to turn
the lights on when entering and to turn them off when leaving.
This chapter deals with the various methods of providing this
control.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES
Three-way switches are used to control one or more
lamps from two different locations, such as at the top and
bottom of stairways, in halls, and other places in the home.
Farmers will want to have the convenience of three-way
switches from building to building or from the house to any of
the other buildings around the farm. For example, the yard or
bam lights may be turned on while working around the farm at
dusk, then turned off when the occupants return to the house.
Or the lights may be turned on at the house and turned off at
any of the outer buildings.
Unlike single-pole switches which control a light or group
of lights from only one location (containing two wire termi¬
nals), three-way switches makes it possible to control light¬
ing from two locations as can be seen in the wiring diagram in
Fig. 8-1. By tracing the circuit it may be seen how these
three-way switches operate. Two wires are connected to the

105
Fig. 8-1. Circuit showing the connections for controlling a lighting fixture from
two different locations.

120-volt line. One wire is connected directly to the light

fixture (this is the neutral or white wire) while the other black
(hot) wire continues on to one of the three-way switches.
Now if both handles of the three-way switches are in the up
position as in Fig. 8-1 the current will pass through the top
traveler wire (between the switches) and on through the other
switch to the lamp, which will light due to the completed
circuit. If either of the handles are turned to the down posi¬
tion, the circuit will be opened, and the lamp will go out.
However, the lamp may be turned on again by changing the
position of either handle at either switch; that is, if the handle
of the left-hand three1 way switch is turned to the down posi¬
tion the light will bum; or if the handle on right-hand three-
way switch is turned to the up position the light will burn.
Thus, the lamp is controlled by switches at two locations.

FOUR-WAY SWITCHES
When it is desired to control a light or a group of lights
from more than two locations one or more four-way switches
will have to be added to two three-way switches to accomplish

106
this. In circuits of this type, you will always need two three-
way switches—one on each side of the group of four-way
switches—and one four-way switch for each additional loca¬
tion. To illustrate, look at the wiring diagram in Fig. 8-2. This
shows a lamp controlled from four locations.
In general, the wiring diagram shows a 120-volt, two-
wire circuit feeding a lighting outlet. The white or neutral
wires connect directly to the terminal on the lighting fixture
while the black wire continues to one of the three terminals on
one of the three-way switches. This terminal is known as the
point terminal. Two traveler wires are then connected to the
remaining terminals on the three-way switch and run to two of
the four terminals on the next four-way switch. Two other
traveler wires are connected to the other two terminals on
this four-way switch and run to the other four-way switch.
The two remaining traveler wires connect to the other
three-way switch. Then one wire from the point terminal
connects to the other side of the lighting fixtures. The actua¬
tion of any one of these four switches will turn the light on or
off.

120V
BLACK WHITE
WIRE WIRE

6 LAMP

3-WAY 4-WAY 4-WAY 3-WAY

—yc —

Fig. 8-2. Wiring diagram of lighting fixture controlled from four different loca¬
tions.

107
THREE-WAY SWITCHING SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Let’s assume that you desire to install a lighting circuit,
controlled by two three-way switches, from your house to an
outbuilding such as a garage or a bam. You have decided to
run the wiring on poles overhead, and the wiring will consist of
several single-conductor wires, not a multiconductor cable.
An elevation drawing of the project is shown in Fig. 8-3.
First, the electric load in the bam must be examined to
determine the proper wire size to be used for the run. We find
that seven 100-watt lamps will be installed in the bam along
with one duplex receptacle that will be used periodically. It is
estimated that the maximum load that will be used on this
outlet at any one time will be 700 watts (found on the namep¬
late of the largest tool that will be used. Since the line voltage
will be 120 volts, the current, in amperes, may be found by the
formula,
„ total load in watts
Current = —

Therefore, the current will be 1400/120 = 11.66 amperes. It

would be natural for us to then choose a wire size from tables
in the National Electrical Code that are rated for this current,
but there are other factors that must be taken into considera¬
tion. One factor is the distance of 200 feet. At the given load
and this distance a wire size must be selected that will keep
the normal voltage (120 volts) within two percent of its origi¬
nal rating, that is, 120 x 0.02 = 2.40. Therefore, 120-
2.40 = 117.6 volts.
There are formulas used by electrical designers and
engineers to determine the voltage drop in circuits, but for the
average homeowner, voltage-drop tables such as the one in
Table 8-1 is easier and quicker to use.
We previously calculated the load for our circuit in ques¬
tion to be 11.66 or 12 amperes. Referring to the left-hand
column in Table 8-1 we find 12 amperes. Then continue to the
right until we come to the column under 200—the length of
feet in the run. We can see that the table calls for AWG #6 to
carry a load of 12 amperes based on a two percent voltage
drop. Therefore, we will use AWG #6 copper wire that is
suitable for outdoor use.

108
109
Fig. 8-3. Elevation drawing of a three-way switching system.
 The next problem is that of supporting the cable through
the air from the house to the outbuilding. The distance is too
far to attach one end of the wires to the house and the others
to the out building. There must be some support in between.
A rule of thumb for spacing poles is the poles should be
spaced approximately 125 feet apart for straight runs. Since
the distance from the house to the bam is 200 feet in our
example, one pole set halfway between the two buildings
would suffice.
The size of the pole cannot be definitely specified here
because of the varying conditions. However, in general, the
pole should be not less than 24 feet above the ground. It
should be high enough to allow loaded trucks and other vehi¬
cles to pass well under the electric lines. The lowest wire on
the pole must be at least 18 feet above the ground if the wires
. cross a driveway. If the wires do not pass over anywhere that
traffic is anticipated then the lowest wire on the pole may be
only 12 feet above the ground.
A 30-foot pole should be set in the ground approximately
6 feet deep, leaving 24 feet above ground. Shorter poles can
be less. For example, 3 feet is fine for a pole 18 feet in overall
length. This leaves 15 feet of pole above ground and would be
satisfactory for gunning the wires from the house to the bam if
no traffic passed under the lines.
When digging the hole for the pole it should be large
enough to take the pole and allow for a tamping bar to be
worked around pole to tamp the loose soil.
Figure 8-4 shows the basic components and wiring of the
system. A two-wire circuit is fused at the fuse cabinet and run
to an outlet box containing the three-way switch in the house.
The hot wire of this circuit is connected to the point terminal
on the three-way switch while the neutral wire bypasses the
switch. Two traveler wires and the neutral are run in rigid
conduit from the switch box up the side of the house high
enough to obtain the desired height above ground. A weath-
erhead is provided on top of the conduit to prevent water from
entering the pipe.
A bracket with three porcelain insulators are attached to
the conduit to support the wire span from the house to the
pole, and the conduit is securely strapped to the house.

110
 Table 8-1. AWG/MCM Based on 2% Voltage Drop

lit
Another bracket is attached to the pole as well as to the bam
to support the wire span.
At the bam, a three-wire cable is tapped to the overhead
span and ran to another outlet box containing another three-
way switch. Notice that the neutral does not connect, in any
way, to the switch. Rather, it continues on with the wire
coming from the point terminal on this switch to feed the light
and duplex receptacle.
With this wiring arrangement the lights have to be burn¬
ing if it is desired to use the receptacle, but since the recepta¬
cle will be used infrequently, this should cause no problem. If
it is desired to keep the receptacle hot all of the time and
control the lights independently, then another wire would
have to be added to the system. This wire could be connected
to the point terminal on the three-way switch in the house,
then ran with the other wires to the barn. At the bam, this
extra wire would feed the receptacle directly without running
through the three-way switch. The neutral wire could be
tapped from the neutral feeding the lights in the barn since it
bypasses the three-way switch also.

LOW-VOLTAGE REMOTE-CONTROLLED SWITCHING

In many homes and on farms where lighting must be
controlled from several points, or where flexibility is desirable
in the lighting system, low-voltage remote-controlled relay
systems have been applied. These systems use standard
120-volt circuits to feed the lights, but the relay switches are
controlled by low-voltage components, operated from a trans¬
former. Because the control wiring itself does not carry the
lighting load directly small lightweight doorbell-type cable can
be used. It can be ran wherever and however convenient—
placed behind molding, stapled to woodwork, buried in shal¬
low plaster channels or installed in holes bored in wall studs or
ceiling and floor joists. Outlet boxes are not even required for
terminations when using this system.
The basic circuit of a remote-control switching system is
shown in Fig. 8-5. A regular two-wire 120-volt circuit is used
to feed the lighting fixture outlet box. The white wire or
neutral is connected directly to the fixture. The black or hot

112
113
Fig. 8-4. Basic components of the three-way switching system.
wire bypasses the fixture and connects to a small relay at¬
tached to the outlet box in a way similar that it would be
connected to a regular single-pole wall switch. Another wire is
connected to the other side of the relay, then connected to the
light fixture. Therefore, when the relay contacts are closed
(to complete the circuit) the light will burn; when opened the
light will not bum. However, a means of opening and closing
the relay automatically is necessary for a proper installation.
A small 120/24-volt transformer is connected to the
120-volt lines with two of its primary leads. Then the blue and
white secondary leads (on the opposite side of the trans¬
former) will produce 24 volts. The hot or blue wire is con¬
nected to one side of the magnetic coil in the relay, and the
white or common wire from the transformer is connected to
the middle or common terminal on a low-voltage wall switch.
A red wire is connected between the on terminal of the switch
and the on terminal of the magnetic coil. A black wire is then
connected between the off position of the switch and the off
position of the coil. This completes the wiring.
Figure 8-5 shows the contacts in an open or off position,
but by pressing the low-voltage switch so that the common
(white) wire comes into contact with the red wire, thus
completing the circuit through the on coil, the iron core of the
relay will be drawn under the on coil and cause the contacts to
close. In doing so, the 120-volt circuit is also completed and
the light will bum.
When it is desired to turn the light off, merely press the
low-voltage switch to the off position. This will complete the
circuit between the white and black wire causing the iron core
to move back to the off position and opening the 120-volt
circuit.

APPLICATION OF LOW-VOLTAGE SWITCHING

Let’s assume that it is desired to control a large hall
lighting fixture from each of the six doors entering the hall¬
way. If conventional methods were used, this would take two
three-way switches, and four four-way switches, plus many
feet of two- and three-wire AWG #12 copper cable. Since the
structure is existing, this means cutting and patching the walls

114
Fig. 8-5. Basic circuit of a remote-controlled switching system.

and ceiling to run the large cable through. However, by using

the low-voltage bell wire, most of the wiring can be run behind
molding or door trim which would eliminate most of the
cutting and patching.
This project (Fig. 8-6) would require one low-voltage
relay, one 120/24-volt transformer, six low-voltage switches,
bell wire and miscellaneous hardware. We would begin the
project as follows.
Pull the fuse or trip the circuit breaker feeding the light
fixture to completely deenergize the circuit. Then remove the
light fixture and loosen the box so that you can remove one of
the knockouts from the outlet box in order to insert and
secure the low-voltage relay. The line side of the relay is
made to fit a 3/s-inch knockout. A locknut screwed on from the
inside of the outlet box will hold the relay secure to the box.
If there is enough room in the box the small transformer
may also be inserted in a knockout on the opposite side of the
outlet box from the relay. Again, most transformers of this
type have their line-side wires arranged through a threaded
hub for inserting it into a regular %-inch outlet box knockout.

115
 Once both the relay and transformer are secure connect
the black (hot) wire feeding the outlet box from the fuse
cabinet or panelboard to one leg of the relay, and also tie in one
leg of the transformer. Twist all three leads around each other
in a rattail splice. Then use about a 76B wirenut to secure the
splice.
Next splice the other lead from the transformer line-side
wire to the white or neutral conductor of the 120-volt circuit
feeding the outlet box. However, do not put a wire nut on this
splice as the fixture will also have to be spliced to this wire.
While you’re up on the ladder you may as well connect
the blue lead on the low-voltage side of the transformer to the
proper terminal on the relay. This connection may be made
with the rattail splice and secured with a 72B wirenut.
Now by hook or crook, run a piece of three-wire bell
cable from the relay/transformer location to the first low-
voltage wall switch location. The cable may be fished down
through the partitions by methods described in Chapters 6
and 7, installed in surface metal molding or run behind or
tacked on wooden molding. Leave about 1 foot of cable at each
end in order to make splices.
Go back to the outlet box where the relay and trans¬
former are located. Connect the red and black wires of the
cable to the relay in their appropriate places. Next connect the
white wire in the cable to the remaining white wire on the
low-voltage side of the transformer. Replace and secure the
outlet box after you are certain that all of the connections are
correct and securely made. Now you’re ready to replace the
light fixture. First connect the white lead from the fixture to
the white wire in the 120-volt circuit feeding the outlet box
and to which one of the line-side leads from the transformer is
connected. Secure this splice with a wire nut.
Now with a short piece of wire the same size as was used
in the 120-volt circuit connect one end to the remaining
terminal on the line side of the relay and the other end to the
black wire on the light fixture. After these joints are made
secure replace the light fixture. Make certain that this is
secured in a manner opposite from the way you removed it.
This ends the work at the outlet box and fixture, but now back
to the low-voltage switches.

116
117
Fig. 8-6. Wiring diagram for low-voltage remote control of a single lighting fixture with six switches.
 You now have a three-wire cable pulled to the location of
the nearest low-voltage switch to the light fixture outlet.
However, before connecting the switch to these wires run
another piece of three-wire bell cable from this location to the
location of the next nearest low-voltage switch. Now splice
the six ends of the cable together at the first switch, that is,
white to white, black to black, and red to red. This again is
made with the rattail splice. Now insert each pair of wires
under the proper screw terminal on the switch and secure the
switch to the wall.
Continue the procedure given in the preceding paragraph
until all six of the low-voltage switches are wired. In fact, any
number of low-voltage switches could be added or deleted to
this three-wire cable to control the one light fixture from any
point one of the switches are located.
The method just given is for one type of low-voltage
control system produced by one manufacturer. While the
wiring may be slightly different on systems manufactured by
other firms the basic components and wiring will be essen¬
tially the same.

118
 Chapter 9
Ready to Tackle 240-Volt Circuits?

There are many electrical appliances and equipment around

the home and farm that require 240 volts to operate. Some of
these include electric ranges, clothes dryers, water heaters,
air conditioners, electric heating equipment, electric motors
driving grain conveyors, milking machines, electric welders
and similar pieces of equipment. Many homeowners, how¬
ever, are somewhat reluctant to tackle any wiring job requir¬
ing more than 120 volts. This is probably due to fear of being
shocked by the higher voltage, or else many think that the
higher the voltage, the more complicated the job.
Actually there is no more danger working on a dead
240-volt line than it is on a dead 120-volt line. Both should be
handled with care and alive both can certainly harm or even kill
a person under the right conditions. On the other hand, if you
have taken the necessary precautions before working on any
electrical line, there is little danger involved in your working
on the lines. Just make certain that the fuses are pulled or the
circuit breaker tripped before working on or handling any
electrical wiring. Then double-check all open wiring with your
testing instrument or test lamp before touching any electrical
component which could be hot.
The complexity of 240-volt equipment is no more than any
other voltage. In fact, most connections to 240-volt equip-

119
Fig. 9-1. Wiring diagram of a 120/240-volt circuit showing the voltages between
phases.

ment involves only the connection of two wires, which is much

the same as connecting a typical lighting fixture or a duplex
receptacle. On a 120-volt circuit a voltmeter reading taken
between the hot wire to any ground will be 120 volts. The
neutral wire to ground should read 0 volts. A reading between
the two wires—hot and neutral—will read 120 volts. On a
240-volt circuit, a reading between either of the two wires to
ground will be 120 volts, while a reading taken between the
two live wires will be 240 volts. Figure 9-1 further illustrates
this fact.

LAYOUT OF 240-V0LT CIRCUITS

With certain restrictions, the wiring methods used for
conventional branch circuits may be utilized for 240-volt cir¬
cuits also. These include, nonmetallic cable, armored cable,
conduit, etc. The wires, of course, must be of sufficient size
to meet the requirements of the National Electrical Code, and
are calculated on the basis of the power equipment or
appliance load requirements.
For example, in order to determine the size of the wires
for an electric range, proceed as follows:

120
 1. Find the nameplate rating of the electric range. This
will normally be rated in kilowatts. Assume 12
kilowatts (kW).
2. Refer to the Table 9-1. The Max Demand column
applies to ranges rated 12 kilowatts and less.
3. Under Appliances column locate the appropriate
number of appliances (assume only one in our case).
Find the maximum demand given for it. The Max
Demand column states that the circuit should be
sized for 8 kilowatts and not for the maximum of 12
kilowatts.
The reason for this last statement in step 3 is that it is unlikely
that all of the burners will be operating on high at any one time,
especially with the oven on and the other electrically operated
devices such as lights, small appliance outlet, etc. Therefore,
the table is allowing for a certain amount of diversity in sizing
the circuit feeding the electric range. In this case, the wire
may be sized for an estimated continuous load of only 8
kilowatts rather than the nameplate rating of 12 kilowatts.
Calculate the required size of the circuit wiring as follows:

demand load in watts

Ampere rating = -—— --
rated voltage

thus,

8000 watts (8 kW)

-———;- = 33.33 amperes
240 volts

Table 9-1. Power Demand of Household Electric Ranges

Appliances Max Demand (kW)

1 8
2 11
3 14
4 17
5 20

121
In checking the current carrying capacity of copper wires in
Table II-1 in Appendix II, we find that no wire size is listed for
exactly 33.33 amperes. Therefore, we will use the next
higher size which is rated at 40 amperes and is AWG #8.
When sizing wires for most of the other 240-volt
appliances used in the home or around the farm they usually
must be sized for their full capacity because there is no diver¬
sity or demand factor for most of these appliances. In fact, the
wire size for most other 240-volt appliances or equipment
should be sized at 125 percent of their nameplate rating. For
example, if we were sizing the feeder wires for a 4000-watt
electric heater, we would find the load in amperes by

4000 (watts)
x 1.25 = 20.82 amperes
240 (volts)

Since the table in Appendix II gives no wire size for exactly

20.82 amperes the next higher rating would be for 30 am¬
peres, which is AWG #10 copper wire. When sizing wires and
the calculated ampere rating does not exactly match one in the
table, never go smaller (regardless how close the figure may
be), but always use the next higher rating.
Another point to consider is the nameplate rating of
electric water heaters. There are many types and sizes or
residential water heaters from a single 1000-watt element to
two 4500-watt elements or higher contained in the tank. Let’s
assume that a typical residential water heater’s nameplate
indicates two heating elements of 4500 watts each. Our first
consideration would be to size the feeder wires for 9000
watts. However, in most cases, if you examine the wiring
diagram of this type of water heater, you will find that only one
of the elements will be operating at any one time. The ther¬
mostats and relays are connected so that the lower 4500-watt
heating element becomes energized first when the thermos¬
tat calls for heat, and at the same time, opens a contact to
prevent the upper heating elemept from operating. When the
lower-element thermostat is satisfied, the lower contact
opens, and at the same time closes the upper thermostat so
that it may be energized when its thermostat calls for heat to

122
 240V

U. DOUBLE¬
THROW
THERMOSTAT

1 1
! XV
■_i

J^L
UPPER HEATING
ELEMENT
SINGLE-POLE
THERMOSTAT
fltti-
I_

iwl
LOWER HEATING
ELEMENT

Fig. 9-2. Wiring diagram of a water heater electrical control circui).

maintain the water temperature. The wiring diagram in Fig.

9-2 more clearly shows the operation of the two elements.
With this information we can now size the wires for the
water heater by the formula:

4500 (watts)
~~ ••——— = 18.75 x 1.25 = 23.43 amperes
240 (volts)
Since no wire size is made to carry exactly 23.43 amperes the
next highest wire size will have to be used, that is, AWG #10
which is rated for 30 amperes.

123
 Most of the remaining 240-volt appliances should have
their wire sized according to their nameplate rating times 125
percent. Still, there is another factor that must be considered
when sizing wire for any electrical system—voltage drop.
When the voltage drop, the load in amperes and the length of
the circuit are known the size of wire to be used can be found
by using tables that indicate the proper size of wire to be
selected at a given voltage for a calculated load, at a given
distance and the allowed voltage drop in percent.
One voltage drop listing was found in Table 8-1 of Chap¬
ter 8. This table is based on an allowable voltage drop of two
percent and the use of copper wires. If aluminum wires are
used instead of copper multiply the current carrying capacity
by a factor of 0.84.
Another voltage drop listing for 240-volt circuits is
shown in Table 9-2. This table is based on a three percent
allowable voltage drop in the circuits and uses copper wires
for the examples. The current carrying capacities in this table
should also be multiplied by a factor of 0.84 should aluminum
wires be used instead of copper.
The importance of voltage drop in circuits should be fully
understood by the homeowner and farmer. Take, for exam¬
ple, circuits feeding electric poultry incubators and brooders
where the life of the chicks are at stake as well as the farmer’s
income. If a brooder was rated at 1500 watts at normal
voltage, a three percent drop in voltage will cause approxi¬
mately six percent loss in heating. This means if only 232 volts
reaches the brooder only 1410 watts of heat will be produced
instead of the rated 1500 watts. While a voltage drop of only
three percent will normally not cause any real problems, we
have seen some rural electrical systems having more than a
seventeen percent voltage drop. With this much voltage drop
the 1500-watt brooder would only be putting out approxi¬
mately 990 watts—enough loss to cause harm to the chicks
under some conditions.
There are several ways to insure that the voltage drop-
will not exceed 3 percent. First, check the voltage at your
main electric switch to ascertain that the power company is
providing you with voltage between 230 to 240 volts. If not,
ask them to adjust their transformer taps so that the voltage

124
 '
400
JJOOOOro^CD^^WWr-QgOOgOOOO
OOCNJWtJ-Su)

350
£NOOOOCOCOCO**CMCMCMOgOOggggQ
^ ^ ^ 'r~ OOC\J§CO°S
o
300

NWCMOO(DfflIO®Tt^WNt-OOOOggOg
T" O O CM CO CO Tl-
o
250

McgtMNOOtoeoeiD'tMWNT-ooogoog
O O CM CO CO
o

^-itCMCMCMOOlOBlOO^MCMCMi-OOggOO
200

CgOCM

^^•^CMCMCNJOCOCOCOtO^^CNJWT-OOOOOO
175

f-r-T-r-T-e-T- OOOOlO
oocvj
o
Table 9-2. AWG/MCM Based on 3% Voltage Drop

M-'t'J-'fCMCMOOOaXOlOM'tCMCMT-OOgOCJ
150

O O CM
O
•

o
5 ^^'tif'tCMCMOOOOOOXIO'fTfCMCM'-OOOg
125

d O O CM
O
§
<

tfTtTTTfrjTfOJCVJOOCOaO^CD^HTCM^OQOQ
100

T— v— T— T— 1— ▼— T— T— OOOLO
SgCM

'tTf^^^MCMCMOOOOCOe<Olf^CM'-gggO

8
O

V^'f't^'fCMCMOOOfflffllDO^CM'-OOOO
O
CO
o

^^TfTf^TTOJOJOOOCOCOCD(D^WT-gOOg
o

^^M^'f'tCMCMOOOOCO(D(OMW-gggg
r-*-r *•-r-■>- r t-f~r- S O CM
8
O

^■^^^rt’tCMCMOOOOCOCDCO^CMr-gggg

8 O O CM
O

^^^<trfMCMCMOOOOCO»®^N--ggOg
O r- r- f- r- *- t- *- t- r- O O CM
O
_JS)_

Q)
Length

k *,<0^ ®OCM®OU,OOggOggg§gggg
E
<

125
will be up to normal. Next, make certain that your branch
circuits are not overloaded. If so, split the load by adding
additional circuits. Finally, make certain that the various wire
sizes in your electrical system are large enough for the load
and the distance to the load. If not, take corrective measures.
From the previous paragraphs, it should now be obvious
that the objective in any electrical circuit is to select and install
a wire size that will carry the required load without be over¬
fused, without becoming overheated and with not more than 3
percent voltage drop. The following examples will illustrate
some of the common problems in selecting and installing
240-volt circuits in the home and around the farm.
PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS
Assume that tn electric milk cooler is located 125 feet
from an electric switch with a voltage of 230 volts. If the
nameplate on the cooler gives a full-load current of 27.5
amperes at 230 volts, what size wires would be required to
feed the machine and not exceed the three percent maximum
voltage drop?
Remember that this type of circuit should be sized at 125
percent of its name plate rating. So, 27.5 amperes x 1.25 =
34.4 amperes. Table II-1 in Appendix II of this book tells us
that AWG #8 would be sufficient to carry the load. But what
about the voltage drop?
Referring to Table 9-2 look down the left-hand column
under Amperes until we come to 40; this is the closest the
table comes to 34.4 amperes without going under. Now con¬
tinue looking across and to the right until we come under the
125 feet column. Since the wire size given is AWG #8 our
original selection was correct.However, if the runwasl50 feet
we would have to jump to AWG #6 to keep the voltage drop
within the desired three percent level.
You have just decided to replace your old gas range with
a new electric range which will be located approximately 40
feet away from your electric panel. The nameplate rating of
your new range is 12 kilowatts. How would you go about
installing the 240-volt electric circuit for this range?
If you remember we showed how to determine the wire
size for a similar range earlier in this chapter. It would require

126
 a minimum of AWG #8 copper wire. Now let’s look at Table
9-2 to see if this size will suffice to keep the voltage drop
within three percent. In this case, we will use the demand load
of 8000 watts instead of the nameplate rating of 12,000 watts.
Since the voltage drop in Table 9-2 is based on loads in
amperes rather than kilowatts we must first convert the
kilowatts to amperes by dividing 8000 watts by 240 volts,
which gives us 33.3 amperes. Then referring to Table 9-2 we
find that AWG #8 wires are plenty large enough for this
circuit.
As mentioned previously there are several different wir¬
ing methods that could be used for this circuit, but let’s
assume that most residential wiring is done in NM cable and
we will also use NM cable for the range circuit. But what type
shall we get? In most 240-volt circuits, only two wires are
needed to supply the current, but on some 240-volt appliances
(this range being one of them) 120 volts are also needed to
light lights, run 120-volt clocks, etc. Therefore, this circuit
will require two hot wires, a neutral, and a grounding conduc¬
tor. So we will order three-wire AWG #8 NM cable with a
ground wire. The length should be sufficient to allow approx¬
imately 2 to 3 feet on each end.
Next run the cable from the panelboard to the location of
the electric range by methods described elsewhere in this
book, that is, the shortest and easiest way possible with the
least amount of cutting and patching room finishes within the
house. The cable should be secured a maximum of every
feet by the proper size of cable straps or by pulling the cable
through holes bored in studs or joists.
Once the cable is pulled in and secured begin on the end
of the cable at the range, and make that connection first. If the
range is of the free-standing type you will probably want to
install a range receptacle, then use a range cord to plug the
range into the receptacle. In this way the range may be
unplugged and moved out of its area for periodic cleaning the
wall and floor where the range is standing or perhaps to clean
the range itself. If the range is one of the built-in types a direct
connection to the junction box provided on the range will
suffice.

127
 A three-pole, four-wire surface-mounted range recepta¬
cle is shown in Fig. 9-3. This type of receptacle has a built-in
cable clamp assembly mounted at the bottom knockout and
comes complete with instruction for installing. To connect the
cable to the receptacle strip about 6 inches of sheathing from
the end of the cable with a small knife. Be careful not to cut
deep enough to cut through the insulation on the wires inside
of the sheathing. Now strip about 1 inch of insulation from
each of the wires inside of the sheathing as described in
Chapter 3.
Insert all wires through the bottom knockout on the
receptacle base until the cable sheathing is approximately a
quarter-inch pass the cable clamp provided. Tighten the cable
clamp and secure the receptacle base to the wall or floor
behind the range.
The terminals should be marked on the receptacle or in
the instructions that come with it. But, in general, the white
(neutral wire) should be connected to the top center terminal
and is secured with a set screw provided with the receptacle.
The black wire is connected to one of the side terminal slots,
and the red wire is connected to the opposite side terminal
slot—both with set screws provided. The grounding wire is
then connected to the bottom terminal, whose slot is shaped
differently from the others. When all terminals are tightly
secured install the cover with the one screw provided. You
may now plug in the range cord and move the range in place.
Now for the other end of the cable, the one at the fuse
box or panelboard. Here you will need about 2 feet of shea¬
thing removed from the cable to allow the inside wires to be
connected to their proper terminal inside of the cabinet. Again
the sheathing is removed; however, before doing anything on
this end turn the main switch off so that the bus bars and
terminals inside of the cabinet will be completely dead. Have a
flashlight handy in case you need it when the power is shut off.
If the overcurrent protection is of the circuit breaker type,
make sure the main breaker is in the off position. Then with a
test lamp or testing instrument check all terminals by holding
one lead to the neutral block. Next move the other lead from
terminal to terminal until you are certain that the panel is
dead.

128
Fig. 9-3. Illustration of a 50-ampere
range receptacle.

Remember, however, that the large service wires feed¬

ing the main breaker in the panel will still be hot unless the
meter is pulled. This should not make any difference as you
won’t have to get near them. Just be careful that you don’t. As
a further precaution, place a piece of plywood on the floor for
you to stand on. If you should happen to brush your hand
against one of the live wires, and if you’re not touching any
grounded object, you won’t get any shock.
With the cover of the panelboard removed, insert a
two-pole 40-ampere circuit breaker. Nearly every manufac¬
turer has a different type breaker, so you will have to make
sure you have purchased one that will fit your panel. The
installation of the circuit breakers will vary also, but in general
locate two unused prongs on the bus bar of the panel. Insert
the end of the breaker towards the outside first. Then, mak¬
ing sure that the notches on the breaker are lined up with the
prongs on the bus bars, press the other side of the breaker
down firmly.
Remove one of the knockouts from the panel which will
most directly accept the cable, insert a 1-inch NM cable
connector in the knockout. Then run the cable through the
connector opening until approximately a half-inch of sheathing
has passed the connector. Tighten the connector and you’re
ready to start making connections inside of the panel.
Start with the grounding conductor first. This will be the
wire with the green insulation. Strip about a half-inch of
insulation from the end of the wire. Then route it neatly
around the panel to the grounding or neutral block. Insert it

129
under one of the empty screw terminals. If an individual
grounding terminal block is provided in your panel you can tell
it immediately by other bare or green insulated wires con¬
nected to it. If not, use the neutral terminal block (the one
with all the white insulated wires attached). Next,secure the
white wire in the cable to the neutral terminal block in the
panel.
With these wires in place route the black wire neatly to
the new circuit breaker. Insert the wire under one of the
screw terminals and tighten the screw. Now repeat this
operation with the red insulated wire. Make sure all of the
contacts are tight, and replace the panel cover.
Turn the main breaker back on, then turn the new 40-
ampere breaker to the on position. You should now be ready
to cook.
While we’re on the subject of panelboards let me again
stress the point of neatness when routing and connecting
wires inside of it. To illustrate the panel in Fig. 9-4 is nothing
but a mess, while the wiring in the panel in Fig. 9-5 is very
neat and shows good workmanship. Which panel would you
rather troubleshoot?

Fig. 9-4. Panelboard showing messy wiring that is very unworkmanlike.

130
Fig. 9-5. Panelboard wired in a good workmanlike manner.

If the range in question was of the built-in type requiring

only a connection to a junction box the range end of the cable
will be connected similar to the method described for the
range receptacle except that the terminals are in a junction
box on the back of the range instead of in the receptacle.
In the case of built-in ovens and cooktops usually a piece
of BX cable is supplied with the units. For these units, you will
have to install an additional junction box and insert the feeder
cable and the cable from the unit in it to make the necessary
splices.
Any other type of 240-volt appliances or equipment will
be wired in a similar way. First determine the size wire
required. Then determine the wiring method and the number
of wires required. Run the cable. Next make the connections
at the equipment and at the panel as previously described,
taking all precautions against electrical shock. Finally make all
terminals and splices secure. There, you have saved money
by installing your own 240-volt circuit.
Where a plug is required at the equipment the nameplate
and the type of cord will dictate the type to install. Table II-2 in
Appendix II will help you to select the proper type.

131
Chapter 10
Update Your
Own Electric Service

All homes and farm buildings that contain an electrical system

require an electric service, which is usually supplied by the
local power company. This electric service is usually defined
as the overhead or underground wires, through which electric
service is supplied, between the power company’s distribu¬
tion facilities and the point of connection to the owner’s ser¬
vice entrance. Figure 2-4 shows the components of an over¬
head service drop, that is, the high voltage lines to the last
power company pole, the transformer that reduces the high
voltage to a voltage usable in the home and the wires from
the transformer to the service facilities located at the building
or other support.
All components between the point of termination of the
overhead service drop and the building main-disconnecting
switch, with the exception of the power company’s metering
equipment, are known as the service entrance, and the wires
used in this section of the electrical service are called the
service-entrance conductors.
Service-entrance equipment, such as the main switch
and circuit breaker panelboards, provides overcurrent pro¬
tection to the service-entrance conductors and branch circuits
and also provides a means of disconnecting the feeders from
energized service wires. The electric meter, which is a part of

132
the service-entrance equipment, provides a means of measur¬
ing the amount of energy used.
The type of service available depends upon the location,
character and size of the homeowner’s electrical load. How¬
ever, the standard service for homeowners and farmers to
furnish power to lighting, appliances, and motors up to 5
horsepower, is the single-phase three-wire 120/240 volt ser¬
vice.
If motors larger than 5 horsepower are to be used the
local power company should be consulted because motors
larger than 5 horsepower have starting characteristics that
make their use on most single-phase lines prohibitive.
Whenever motors larger than 5 horsepower are used the
power company will probably require that a three-phase ser¬
vice be supplied. This can either be a three-phase four-wire
120/208 volt (Y-connected) service or a three-phase four-
wire 120/240 volt (delta-connected) service. Of the two, the
latter usually is more satisfactory for home and farm equip¬
ment loads.

CORRECT SIZE OF ELECTRIC SERVICE

In general a residence or farm served with electric power
can be supplied through only one set of service-entrance
wires, except under certain conditions.
The service-entrance wires must have adequate capac¬
ity to safely conduct the current for the loads supplied without
a temperature rise that may harm the insulation or covering of
the wires. They must also have adequate mechanical strength
and cannot be smaller than AWG #8 copper or AWG #6
aluminum.
For residential electrical services, the National Electrical
Codes gives two methods for determining the size of the
service-entrance conductors. One is called the standard
method and the other is called the alternate method.
Using the floor plan of the residence in Fig. 10-1 as a
guide the following is an example of employing the standard
method of calculating the proper size service to use:
1. Determine the total number of square feet within
the building by either measuring the building or by

133
 scaling a drawing of the building. In doing so the
building should be measured from the outside walls
of the building.
2. The total area in square feet is then multiplied by 3
watts to determine the general lighting load.
3. Each 120-volt small appliance circuit is listed and
each is multiplied by 1500 watts.
4. A demand factor may then be applied to the sum of
the calculated lighting load and the small appliance
load; that is, the first 3000 watts is figured at 100
percent and the remaining wattage at 35 percent.
5. After the demand factor is applied this gives the net
load excluding the electric range, water heater and
other major appliances.
6. Add 8000 watts for an electric range that is not over
12,000 watts in total output. Refer to the National
Electric Code (Article 220) for ratings over 12 kW.
7. Next, add together the nameplate rating (in watts)
of all other fixed appliances served by individual
circuits not previously accounted for in the calcula¬
tion. If two major appliance loads are known not to
operate simultaneously, e.g., air conditioning and
electric heat, only the larger load of the two need be
added in the calculation.
8. Total all of the previously calculated loads in step 5
through 7.
9. Divide this grand total load in watts by the line-to-
line voltage to obtain the required ampere rating of
the service wires and related equipment. For most
residential services, the line-to-line voltage will be
between 230 and 240 volts.
Therefore, in the residence in Fig. 10-1, the dimensions
are 30.5 feet wide by 48 feet long. The total area is found by
30.5 x 48 = 1,464 square feet
However, a 11.3- by 19.5-foot carport is included in this
calculation and should be omitted since it is not a part of the
house interior. So 220.35 square feet (11.3 by 19.5) taken
away from the original calculation leaves 1,244 square feet of
living space.

134
135
Fig. 10-1. Floor plan of residence used to show method of calculating size of electric service.
 The calculations of the lighting load, appliance loads,
electric range, and other build-in appliances are shown in the
following summation:
General Lighting Load

Item Watts
1,244 square feet at 3 watts per foot..3732

Appliance Circuits
Kitchen, 3 at 1500 watts per circuit...........4500
Laundry, 1 at 1500 watts per circuit.1500
Total.9732

Application of Demand Factor

3000 watts at 100 percent..3000
6732 watts at 35 percent. 2356
Net load without major appliances..5356
Range. 8000
Space heating. 9400
Clothes dryer........ 4500
Water heater. 4500
Total load. 31,756

Then to calculate the required ampere rating divide the total

load in watts by the line-to-line voltage. This is,

Amperes = -31i^6 ^atts = 132.31

240 volts

The total calculated service-entrance wires and related

service equipment should then be a minimum of 133 amperes.
But after looking through equipment catalogs, you will find
that most service-entrance equipment are rated in 100, 150,
200, etc. amperes, and no conventional fuse or circuit breaker
is rated for exactly 133 amperes. Therefore, we will go to the
next higher size service which is 150 amperes. If much future
expansion is contemplated, it would be better to install a
200-ampere service rather than the 150-ampere type. The
additional expense will not be that great and you will have lots
of room for expansion and adding additional electrical
appliances and circuits in the future.

136
INSTALLATION OF SERVICE EQUIPMENT
The drawings in Fig. 10-2 show two types of 200-ampere
overhead service entrances. The top drawing shows the
service equipment mounted against one end of the house,
while the lower drawing shows a rigid conduit mast running
through the roof of the house in order to obtain sufficient
height for the service drop from the power company’s pole.

SERVICE HEAD TO BE MOUNTED ABOVE

TOP SERVICE WIRE.

HOUSE
BRACKET
SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE 2-#4/0 AND
— 1 -#2/0 R.H. ALULM. 200 AMP. OR
TRIPLEX EQUIVALENT.
CABLE STRAPS 4' MAX. SPACING.

3' MIN. WIRE LEAD.

FROM SERVICE
ENTRANCE CAP
- —-—J WEATHERPROOF CONNECTOR

LEVEL

SLIP FITTER SERVICE

ENT. CAP.
SERVICE
BRACKET
NG^

SATISFACTORVGUYING OR
BRACING REQUIRED NOTES:
ABOVE 6’ 1. SOCKET TYPE METER LOCATED OUTDOORS.
2. SOCKETS TO BE SECURELY MOUNTED IN A TRUE
VERTICAL POSITION WITH APPROVED MOUNTING DEVICES.
USE METER BOARD WHERE NECESSARY.
3. ALL FITTINGS AND CONNECTIONS TO SOCKET TO BE
SERV. SUPPORT MAST, IF WATERPROOF.
NEEDED, TO BE SUPPLIED 4. METER SOCKET FURNISHED BY COMPANY, INSTALLED BY
BY CUSTOMER. CUSTOMER.
ECCENTRIC

MIN. 4’-0"
TO FINISHED GRADE LEVEL

Fig. 10-2. Two types of 200-ampere electric services.

137
 Fig. 10-3. Wood screws are used to
secure meter base to wood surfaces.

To begin obtain a 200-ampere meter base from your local

power company. Usually they are free of charge. At the same
time you might take along a sketch of your site plan showing
the relationship of your house to existing electric lines and ask
the power company the best place (on your house) to install
the meter and service-entrance equipment so that the routing
of the power company’s line will be the most direct without
having to cut tree limbs, etc.
Once die location of the service equipment has been
determined, remove the front cover on the meter base and
mount it to the side of your house a minimum of 4 feet above
the ground and a maximum of 5 feet, 6 inches. These heights
makes it more convenient for the power company’s personnel
to read the meter to determine the amount of current you
have used over a given period.
If the meter is to be installed against wooden boards,
regular wood screws (Fig. 10-3) will be fine; if installed
against a masonry wall, then anchors such as the ones in Fig.
10-4 will have to be used. Use a level to make certain the
meter base top is level.
Next determine the amount of service-entrance cable
you will need from the meter base to the service head. You
should leave approximately 3 feet at the service head in order
for the power company to make their taps, about 18 inches at
the meter base to make the connections inside of it and
enough between the meter base and the service head to
comply with the following:

138
 ■ Not less than 3 feet from windows, doors, porches
or similar locations.
■ Not less than 2 feet above or below telephone wires.
■ Not less than 18 feet above public street or roads.
■ Not less than 15 feet above residential driveways.
■ Not less than 12 feet above finished grade level at
any point.
With the length of service-entrance cable determined
you will now need the following materials to complete the
service from the point of attachment to the building to the
meter base: one service head (for 200-ampere service wires),
enough 200-ampere service-entrance cable as determined
previously, cable straps to secure the cable every 4 feet,
enough fasteners to secure the service head and cable straps
to the wall surface and a weather-proof service-entrance
cable connector to accommodate the termination of the cable
at the meter base.
Begin the operation by measuring back from one end of
the cable approximately 38 inches. Mark the cable, then strip
off the sheathing from that point back to the end of the cable.
You will then see two insulated conductors enclosed inside of
a bare wire braided around them. Unwind the strands of this
bare wire from around the two conductors (Fig. 10-5). Then
rewind these bare strands to form a third wire as shown in
Fig. 10-6. This is the neutral wire.

SOLID MASONRY CONSTRUCTION

DETERMINE ANCHOR LOCATIONS.

NOTE: y2" INSULATION BOARD IS RECOMMENDED

BETWEEN THE BACK PANEL AND THE OUTSIDE WALL
TO CUT DOWN HEAT TRANSMISSION.

Fig. 10-4. Lead or plastic anchors are used to secure meter base to masonry
surfaces.

139
Fig. 10-5. Unwinding the strands of bare wire from around the two insulated
conductors.

Now, with the neutral wire between the two insulated

wires, bend each of the two insulated wires down along the
side of the service-entrance cable as shown in Fig. 10-7.
Loosen the clamp on the service head, slip the entire assem¬
bly over the service-entrance cable and tighten clamp. You
are now ready to install the service-entrance cable.
Locate, by measuring or with a plumb bob, a point di¬
rectly over the opening in the top of the meter base at the
correct height above the finished grade. Mark it with a pencil.
Then install an appropriate anchor or fastener at this point
through the hanging opening on the service head. Tighten to
hold the service head and the top of the cable in place. Then
continue down from the service head, securing the cable with
cable straps and fasteners not more than every 4 feet. Try to
space these at equal intervals for a neat appearance.
Next strip enough sheathing from the opposite end of the
service-entrance cable to make the connectors in the meter
base. Then take the service-entrance cable connector apart
(most come in three pieces) and slip the top part of the clamp
on the cable and also the rubber center part. The lower part of

140
Fig. 10-6. When twisted together the bare strands form a third conductor.

Fig. 10-7. Final bending of service entrance conductors prior to installing weath-
erhead.

141
Fig. 10-8. Service-entrance cable enters meter base by means of a service-
entrance connector.

the clamp will screw into the lug on the meter base. Make
sure this is tight.
The next step is to insert the three wires from the
stripped end of the cable into the hub opening and into the
meter base. Then slide the two connector parts (on the cable)
down until they come into correct contact with the lower part
of the connector screwed into the meter’s hub. Tighten the
two screws to firmly secure the cable connector in place
before applying the weatherproofing compound, furnished
with the connector, to the openings where the cable passes
through the connector. The cable at the meter base should
now look like the one shown in Fig. 10-8.
Make the connections inside of the meter base as shown
in Fig. 10-9. This completes the line side of the service
entrance. Now for the conductors on the load side from the
meter base to the main switch or main panelboard.

142
 The service wires from the meter base to the main
disconnect switch or panelboard with a main circuit breaker
may also be service-entrance cable, or wires run in rigid or
EMT conduit. The main restriction is that the Code states
that the service wires must terminate into a main switch or
panelboard immediately after entering the interior of the
house. Authorities differ on the meaning of immediately but
few will allow more than 6 feet of unfused conductor inside of
the house. If it is not practical to run the service wires
immediately from the meter base to the main switch inside the
service wires will have to be run on the outside of the house
(Fig. 10-10) until it reaches a point where the wires can be run
directly into the main fusible service switch inside. Or the
conductors must be fused outside at the meter base. Then a
four-wire cable can be run from the point of the fuses to
anywhere within the house.
Once the cable from the meter base to the service switch
is installed, they are connected to the terminals of the switch
as shown in Fig. 10-11. Note that the black wire is connected
to one terminal of the hot bus bars; the red wire to the

Fig. 10-9. Wiring connections inside of meter base.

143
Fig. 10-10. Service-entrance cable run on outside of building when meter base
is some distance from the main switch or panel.

terminal of the other hot bus bar; and the white (neutral) wire
to the solid neutral block. Also note that AWG #4 bare copper
wire is run from the solid neutral block to the closest cold
water pipe for the purpose of grounding the equipment. The
subject of grounding will be further covered in Chapter 11.
The details of installing an underground 200-ampere ser¬
vice are shown in Fig. 10-12. The meter base is mounted the
same as for the overhead service previously described, ex¬
cept that the top hub in the meter base is sealed to keep water
out, and the cable or conduit enters from the bottom.
Normally, the homeowner is required to furnish an
empty conduit from the meter base to approximately 2xh feet
below grade. A 90-degree conduit elbow with bushing is
installed on the bottom of this conduit to accept the power
company’s service wires more readily. The wires (both line
and load side) are connected inside of the meter base as
described in Fig. 10-12, and the remaining wiring is done in
the same way as described for the overhead service.

144
POLE METERING
In selecting the location of the service entrance and
metering equipment on the farm, the electric service should
be located as near as possible to the area using the greatest
load. In many cases, especially in farmhouses using electric
heat, this area will be the farmhouse itself. On the other hand
if there is a workshop or other area where many electric
motors are used to run machinery, the greatest load could be
elsewhere.

145
Fig. 10-12. Details of an underground service entrance.

A typical metering pole for farm use is shown in Fig.

10-13. The equipment mounted on this pole includes the
power company’s 7200-volt line, a transformer to reduce the
high voltage to a usable 120/240-volt single-phase service,
weatherhead and conduit containing wires to the meter and
back up the pole for distribution to other points throughout the
farm and a pole-mounted light which is often a dusk-to-dawn
mercury-vapor type. Such a service should be located approx¬
imately at the center of the greatest electrical load as shown in

146
Fig. 10-14. In doing so the voltage drop is kept to a minimum,
smaller wire sizes will carry the loads, a saving in wire cost,
and shorter runs of wires to the various buildings will be
required, another savings in wire cost.
A central pole metering is best used when one or more of
the following conditions exist:
■ A substantial electrical load is installed or con¬
templated in each of two or more buildings
■ Buildings containing electrical loads are scattered

II METER FURNISHED AND INSTALLED

BY COMPANY
21 METER SOCKET FURNISHED BY
COMPANY, INSTALLED BY CUSTOMER
31 POLE AND ALL MATERIALS ABOVE
RACK FURNISHED AND INSTALLED
BY COMPANY

I CUSTOMER OR HIS AGENT

SHALL NOT GO ABOVE THIS LEVEL
WITHOUT COMPANY PERMISSION
▼GROUNO MIN Iff
PREFERABLY 151
ABOVE FINISHED
GRADE LEVEL

5 6" ABOVE i
FINISHED GRADI
LEVEL

Fig. 10-13. A typicai metering pole for farm use.

147
 ROAD

Fig. 10-14. Site plan showing location of metering pole.

■ Due to trees or other obstacles outbuildings cannot

easily be fed except by a pole installed to miss these
obstacles
While we are on the topic of central pole metering, it may be
well to include the main advantages of such an electrical
installation.
First, less investment in electrical wires will be required
for feeders from the meter pole to buildings than for most
other meter locations since the meter pole can be located as
near as possible to the heaviest electrical load on the farm.
When it becomes necessary to change or alter the wiring
or service in one of the farm buildings the wiring to other
buildings need not be disturbed. Merely disconnect the wire
taps to the building where the change is to be made, and leave
the other wires energized.
Similarly, an electrical fault like a short circuit causing
one of the buildings to be out of commission until the fault can
be corrected will not interrupt service to other buildings. Nor

148
will the loss of one building by fire or similar mishap interfere
with the electrical service to other buildings.

PARTIAL UPDATING OF ELECTRIC SERVICE

There will be times when you have found that your
service wires are large enough to handle your total electrical
load, but you just don’t have enough space in your fuse cabinet
or panelboard to accommodate additional needed circuits. Or
perhaps you find that several circuits in your home are con¬
nected to one fuse or circuit breaker terminal causing them to
blow or trip frequently. What do you do then?
Maybe your original service equipment consisted only of
a fuse cabinet that contained spaces for an electric range, and
four circuits only. Now you want to add an electric water
heater and a clothes dryer, but you have no more spaces to
add them. Or perhaps your existing service has been added
too so often that your service equipment looks like the photo
in Fig. 10-15. In any case the solution means an updating of
your service equipment.
First, make a survey of the existing circuits in your
home. Then, with your family, determine what additional
appliances you expect to have in the near future. After decid¬
ing upon the number of circuits required, add about twenty

Fig. 10-15. Service equipment that

has been added during the years.

149
percent to this number to handle any additional circuits you
have overlooked or that you do not know about at the time.
If, after making the calculations described previously on
how to size your service wires, you find that your present size
is adequate purchase only a new circuit breaker load center
containing the required number of spaces for circuit breakers
that will provide over-current protection for the number of
circuits that you will install.
Acquire all of the necessary materials first. Double¬
check with an electrician or power company representative to
make sure. Then, with all the necessary material on hand,
perform all of the work you can without having to disconnect
the power. This might include mounting the new circuit
breaker panel beside the existing piece of equipment and
installing any new circuits and connecting them to the'new
panel. Of course they will be dead until the new panel is
actually connected to your existing service wires. You can
even install a new ground wire (as described in Chapter 11)
before you make the actual changeover.

Fig. 10-16. A modern service entrance circuit breaKer panel.

150
 When you are sure that you have done all the work
possible without disconnecting the power (in order to save
time), have the power company pull their meter which will
turn off the power from the load side of the meter base to your
old service equipment. Then disconnect the service wires
from the ©Id switch and reconnect these to your new circuit
breaker panel as shown in Fig. 10-11. You should be able to
make this change fast enough so that the person from the
power company could wait to replace the meter, which in
turn, will make your new panel hot. Then transfer the remain¬
ing circuits in your old panel to the new; remove the old
service equipment entirely, and you will have a neat installa¬
tion as shown in Fig. 10-16.

151
Chapter 11
Grounding—A Life Saver

All electrical systems must be grounded in a manner pre¬

scribed by the National Electrical Code in order to ensure
safety of life and property. The main purposes of grounding an
electrical system include:
9 Limit the voltage from phase to ground on a circuit
H Protect the circuit from exposure to lightning
H Prevent voltage surge higher than that for which the
circuit is designed
■ Protect the circuit from an increase in the maximum
potential to ground due to normal voltage
In order for you to make use of the protective feature of
grounding, you must first understand how a ground functions
in relationship to an electrical system and how circuits are
grounded.
Figure 11-1 shows a fundamental electric service such as
might be found in the home or on the farm. At the main panel,
where the service-entrance wires enter the house from the
power company’s meter, the neutral or white wire is
thoroughly grounded by means of a connection to a cold-water
pipe. If a metal cold-water pipe is not available, the electric
service may be grounded to a driven ground rod as shown in
Fig. 11-2.

152
 SERVICE

Fig. 11-1. Grounding of an electrical system to a cold water pipe.

The branch circuits running from the main panel to vari¬

ous outlets throughout the home and the metal enclosures of
the outlet boxes are considered to be adequately grounded
when they are mechanically connected to each other and to
the service-entrance equipment metal enclosure. This is ac¬
complished either by a metallic raceway (conduit or armored
cable) or by a ground wire enclosed within nonmetallic cable.

Fig. 11-2. Grounding of an electrical system to a driven ground rod.

153
 PHASE A
*
120 V

NEUTRAL

120 V
120V

PHASE B
t
240V
_
GROUNDED
OJECT

Fig. 11-3. Wiring diagram of a typical 120/240 volt electric service with the
neutral not grounded.

Now let’s see how a system ground, as just described,

limits the voltage from phase (one hot wire) to ground. Figure
11-3 shows a wiring diagram of a typical 120/240-volt three-
wire electric service. In this diagram the neutral is not
grounded. Assume that phase A develops a ground fault as
marked by the A on the circuit line and does not blow a fuse.
The voltage from phase B to ground will then be 240 volts
instead of the normal 120 volts. This means that any grounded
120-volt equipment connected to phase B will receive 240
volts and more than likely damage the equipment. A person
who is grounded—for example, standing on a cement base¬
ment floor—and comes in contact with phase B will receive a
shock from 240 volts instead of 120 volts. On a damp base¬
ment floor this could be fatal.
Grounded equipment also provides a direct path to
ground from voltage surges outside of the home that come in
on the electric lines. Lightning would be one example. In this
case the high voltage caused by lightning coming over the

154
wires will be directed to ground rather than coming in on the
house wiring. In other words the system ground acts like a
lightning arrester since the resistance to ground is less than
the resistance of the house wiring.
To better illustrate this fact, we will use water to simu¬
late the flow of electricity. Most free-flowing substances—
that is, water and electrical current—always seek the path of
the least resistance. Take for example a concrete dam across
a stream of water as shown in Fig. 11-4. Normal water level is
2 feet. A 2-inch pipe is placed at the foot of the dam to carry off
the normal flow of water to irrigate a crop field near the
stream. The soil can easily handle the normal flow of water
through this 2-inch pipe without any damage to the crop. Let
the 2-inch pipe represent the service wires supplying power
to your home, and the crop field represents you home utilizing
normal electrical power. The large 10-inch pipe inserted
through the dam above the normal water level acts as an

Fig. 11 -4. Drawing of a creek dam to show how the system grounds protects the
home electric service.

155
 Fig. 11-5. Location of ground wire
connection inside of main switch.

overflow pipe for high water, and may be compared to the

system ground on your home electrical system.
Now suppose a heavy rain storm occurs upstream which
causes an enormous amount of water to flow down the
stream, much the same as high voltage caused by lightning
coming toward your home electrical system over the service
wires. Will the water damage the crop or will the higher
voltage damage your electrical system? Neither is likely since
the 10-inch pipe has less resistance than the 2-inch pipe
feeding the irrigation system. Most of the excess water will
flow through the 10-inch pipe and be diverted away from the
crop field into the stream bed. Likewise, the system ground
on your electrical system will divert most of the high voltage
away from your interior wiring and carry it directly to ground
because the ground has less resistance than the remaining
wiring in your home. You should now have a fairly good idea of
how a system ground operates.
To insure that your electrical system is properly
grounded, the neutral wire of the service-entrance conduc¬
tors should be grounded either at the meter base or at the
main switch enclosure ahead of the main switch as shown in
Fig. 11-5. This is accomplished by connecting a grounding
conductor to the neutral bus of the panel or meter base and by

156
connecting the other end to a cold-water pipe or other suitable
grounding electrode. No further connection should be made
to a grounding electrode on the load side of the main-service
switch.
You must also make certain that you really have a good
ground—not more than 25 ohms resistance. If there is any
doubt that the ground resistance is higher than 25 ohms, a
ground test should be made with a megger ground tester.
Usually the local power company will make this test for you at
little or no charge.
The size of the ground wire is also important to ensure a
proper ground. Table 11-1 can be used for sizing grounding
wires for any residential or farm system ground, the one at
the service-entrance location.
Remember if no cold-water pipe is available at the
service-entrance location or else the cold-water pipe is made
of some other material than metal (PVC plastic for example)
the grounding wire must be connected to some other ground¬
ing electrode, such as a ground rod shown in Fig. 11-6.
Notice in Fig. 11-6 that a grounding conductor is used to
bond the ground rod to the copper cold-water pipe inside of
the house, although the main water line from the pump to the
house is PVC plastic. The reason for this is that sometimes
the water inside of the PVC and copper pipe will offer less
resistance to ground than the ground rod, and many heating
elements in hot-water heaters have been burned out due to
lightning coming in on the water pipes. The additional ground-

table 11-1. Grounding Wire Sizing

Largest Service Wire (AWG/MCM) Grounding Wire(AWG)

Copper Aluminum Copper Aluminum

2 0 8 6
1 00 6 4
0 000 6 4
00 0000 4 2
000 250 4 2

157
ing conductor from the ground rod to the copper cold-water
line will help prevent this from happening.

EQUIPMENT GROUNDING
The system ground just described means that the neutral
wire of the service-entrance conductors is grounded. There¬
fore, the neutral wire is a grounded wire or conductor and
should have white insulation in all cases. Agrounding conduc¬
tor or wire, however, is a wire used to ground circuits and
metal portions of electrical equipment used on the circuit.
This is referred to as equipment grounding and is also very
important on any electrical system. To show just how impor¬
tant this equipment ground is let’s look at one actual case that
happened in a small Virginia town.
A housewife noticed that her washer in the basement of
her home occasionally shocked her when she touched the
metal cabinet, and she finally called an electrical contractor to
check it. This was a good move on her part, but she didn’t wait
for the contractor to arrive before she finished her load of
clothes. When the contractor entered the basement he found
the woman lying on the basement floor, dead from electrocu¬
tion.
An examination of the washer showed that the metal
frame was not grounded as there was no equipment ground
attached and it was setting on rubber-padded legs. One of the
hot wires inside of the metal cabinet had rubbed against a
sharp comer. Vibration had caused the metal cabinet comer
to cut into the wire’s insulation and come in contact with the
bare hot wire. Since the cabinet was not grounded, this did not
blow the fuse as it would have had the metal cabinet been
properly grounded. Thus, the entire washer cabinet and
frame was hot like the wire it had come in contact with.
Perhaps the times before when the woman had been
shocked the washer motor was not running which lessened
the current received by the shock or maybe the floor was not
as wet as it was the last time. Probably, the woman was
standing in water splashed on the floor from the washer and
touched the washer cabinet while it was running and the
combination of the two killed her.

158
 More fatal electrical accidents have occurred in the
basement and bathrooms of homes than any other area. The
reason being water. Yes, water on the floor enormously
increases the danger of electricity because the water reduces
the resistance of the floor itself causing you to be a good
ground. And we have already discussed why electrical current
flows along the path of the least resistance. Because of this
fact both portable and fixed appliances used in the basement
or other damp locations should be especially checked for
proper grounding.
If your home has a modern grounded electrical system
that third prong on appliance cords (the one that many people
cut off) takes care of the job for you. However, if your
electrical system is of the older types without an equipment
ground run with your branch circuit you will have to ground
your appliances by some other means.
For heavy appliances such as an electric washer or
dryer, secure a piece of AWG #10 bare copper wire under
one of the screws on the metal cabinet. Most of these
appliances have a special grounding screw which is plainly
marked on the back. The other end of the wire should be
attached to the closest cold-water pipe with a ground clamp
like the one in Fig. 11-7.

159
 Fig. 11-7. Ground clamp used for
connecting ground wire to either a
cold water pipe or ground rod.

PORTABLE APPLIANCES & HAND TOOLS

I’m sure that you have noticed that third prong on cords
of metal hand tools and appliances and also the adapter that
comes with the cords in case your receptacles are not of the
grounding type. Many have found this third prong to be a
nuisance in homes without the proper receptacle to plug them
in, and have cut this prong off. But in doing so, they eliminated
one of the best protective devices against electrical shock. It
might be compared to a skydiver leaving his spare chute
behind. He probably won’t need it, but if he does....
Now let’s see just what this third prong on cords has to
do with preventing electrical shock. Look at the drawing in
Fig. 11-8. The square represents the metal housing of an
electric drill motor, the coils are the motor windings and the
arrowhead represents the switch on the motor, which is
usually a trigger type.
Line A in Fig. 11-8 is the neutral wire and line B is the hot
wire. Both of them combined form a 120-volt circuit to the drill
motor. Now if a fault developed at point C, that is, the
insulation of the hot wire is worn and allowed the bare hot wire
to come in contact with the metal frame, a harmful shock could
occur when the user plugged the cord into an outlet. He
himself would have to be grounded, but if he’s wearing leather
sole shoes on a basement floor this will do it.
However, a third prong on the plug means that the
prong is connected to a grounding conductor inside of the
cord. If it is plugged into a grounded receptacle the metal case
of the motor will be grounded as shown in Fig. 11-9. Then if a
fault occurs such as at point D the line is short-circuited and
blows the fuse or trips the circuit breaker. If the fault occurred
at point E the fuse would again blow when the switch on the

160
 Fig. 11-8. Wiring diagram of a non-
grounded drill motor.

drill was closed. If the fault occurred at point C (on the neutral
wire) nothing would happen as the frame is already grounded.
A separate grounding wire can easily be added to any tool
or appliance if provisions were not made at the factory. The
best way is to replace the existing cord with one that has the
grounding wire enclosed inside of it along with a grounding
type plug. Then you simply connect the white and black wires
to the same wires of the tool or appliance, and connect the
bare or green grounding wire under any convenient screw on
the frame or case. Of course the receptacle has to be the
grounded type for the new cord to do any good. If it isn’t, then
the grounding should be done to a water pipe as described
earlier.
If you don’t want to invest in another three-prong cord,
you can take a piece of bare copper wire, fasten one end under
any convenient screw on the frame or case and then run this
wire along the outside of your old cord securing it in place with
electrical tape. Leave enough on the plug end of the cord to
fasten to a ground such as a screw on a nongrounded recepta¬
cle when the outlet box is grounded, etc.
Those of you who live on farms should know that lives¬
tock are extremely sensitive to electric shock, and voltages
that would not affect a human are frequently fatal to cattle and
horses. Therefore, all wiring systems and metal frames of

Fig. 11-9. Wiring diagram of a

grounded drill motor.

161
electrical equipment should be properly grounded around the
farm.
While we’re on the subject of livestock a comment con¬
cerning the use of electric fences is in order. Many farmers
have made it a practice to install porcelain insulators on fence
posts, run bare galvanized wire around the area, and connect
the wire to house current—either through an electric lamp or
dead-ending the hot wire. While this practice works it has also
caused the death of many cows and horses during rainy or
damp weather.
For safety reasons, every electric fence should have an
electric-fence controller installed to limited the current on the
output side to 10 milliamperes. Tests have proved that an
animal can safely stand 10 milliamperes of current for a very
short time without suffering any ill effects from it. The control¬
ler should also have an interrupter to interrupt the current at
regular intervals as current as small as 3 milliamperes can be
fatal to livestock and humans if not interrupted at regular
intervals. Most approved electric-fence controllers also con¬
tain fuses to protect them against short circuits or a high-
voltage surge which may occur during a lightning storm.

SUMMARY OF EQUIPMENT GROUNDING

Electric ranges and clothes dryers, when fed with a
three-wire 120/240-volt circuit, are grounded by means of
the neutral wire. However, an additional grounding wire en¬
closed inside of the cable and also attached to the frames of
these appliances will certainly not hurt anything. For all other
appliances, including motors used around the home and farm,
a separate gounding wire should be installed. As mentioned
previously, this can consist of a metallic conduit or an addi¬
tional wire enclosed in NM cable. The grounding wire must be
run with the circuit wires, and it may be bare or covered with
green insulation. The wire can contain no current as can the
neutral wire.
All portable and fixed tools operated by electric motors
should be equipped with suitable grounding means, either by a
grounding wire run with the feeder circuit to permanently
located ones or by means of a three-prong appliance cord

162
connected to a grounded duplex receptacle in the case of
portable ones.
If this chapter has not impressed upon you the impor¬
tance of a properly grounded electrical system just pick up any
newspaper and read the fatalities reported due to contact with
live electrical appliances. The number is sickening when most
could have been prevented if the murder weapon had only
been grounded.

163
Chapter 12
Lighting the Home’s Interior

Properly designed and controlled lighting can be one of the

greatest comforts and conveniences that any homeowner can
enjoy. Electric lighting is also one of the interior decorator’s
most versatile tools as light has certain characteristics that
can be used to change the apparent shape of a room, to create
a feeling of separate areas within a room, to create a variety of
moods or to alter architectural lines, forms, color, pattern or
texture. For these reasons, proper lighting should be consi¬
dered equally as important as the heating system, the furni¬
ture placement, and other items considered necessary for
comfort living.
While residential lighting calculations need not be as
elaborate as might be required for a school classroom or a
commercial application, some guide should be followed to
assure that the proper amount of glare-free illumination is
obtained in all areas. With the use of such a guide, various
possibilities of lighting are available which are limited only by
the homeowner’s imagination. Obtain and study several of the
residential lighting catalogs available free of charge. With your
own ideas as to the types of lighting fixtures you desire to use,
the following lumens-per-square-foot method will help you
determine the number and wattage of lamps for most areas
around the home.

164
 The following gives the required lumens per square foot
for various areas in the home and also for various locations
around the farm.
Living Quarters Lighting
AREA LUMENS/SQ FT
Living room..80
Dining room..45
Kitchen..80
Bathroom..65
Hallway..45
Laundry ..70
Workbench..70

Dairy Barn Lighting

AREA LUMENS
Litter alley.
Feed alley. . 1010 per 10 ft of wall
Loose house bam. .1010 per 150 sq ft
Box stalls and pens. .870 per pen
Milking room.
Milk house.

Poultry House Lighting

AREA LUMENS
Laying house:
Dim evening lights....
Bright evening light... .1750 per 200 sq ft
All-night lights.
Brooder house...
Egg storage and handling:
General.
Work area. .3250
Cleaning and dressing.

Crop Storage Barn

AREA LUMENS
Feed grinding.......
Feed storage.......

165
 Bam floor.... .8.75 per sq ft
Com crib.......... ...12 per sq ft
Hay loft... .... 7 per sq ft
Silo:
Top of chute........ 300-watt lamp
Ceiling. 150-watt lamp
Potato storage, etc. ...12 per sq ft
Fruit/vegetable storage ...12 per sq ft
Greehhouse.. .8 per sq ft

In using this method, it is important to remember that

lighter room colors reflect light and darker colors absorb light.
The listings contained herein are based on rooms with light
colors so if your room surfaces are dark, the total lumens
obtained in your calculations should then be multiplied'by a
factor of 1.25 to insure the proper amount of illumination.
These listings are further based on surface-mounted lighting
fixtures; if the area to be lighted contains recessed fixtures,
the total lumens obtained from the recessed fixtures should
be multiplied by 0.60.
Now for a typical application of the data.
The floor plan of a residential living room is shown in Fig.
12-1. From the listing above we can see that 80 lumens per
square foot would be required to obtained the recommended
level of illumination. The amount of lamps to obtain this level
must be found next.
Scale the drawings to find the dimensions of the room. Or
in the case of an existing residence, actual measurement with
a tape measure should be performed. In doing so, we find that
the area of the living room in Fig. 12-1 is (13.75 feet by 19
feet) 261.25 or 261 square feet. The area is then multiplied by
the required lumens per square feet or 261 x 80 = 20,880.
This is total lumens required in this area to obtain the proper
illumination level.
The next step is to refer to manufacturer’s lamp data
(see Appendix IV) to select lamps that will give the required
amount of lumens. At the same time you should be looking
through residential lighting fixture catalogs to get some idea of
the type of lighting fixtures you plan to use in the area, as well
as the location of the fixtures.

166
Fig. 12-1. Floor plan of a typical residential living room.

Let’s assume that we admire the stone fireplace in the

area and would like to highlight the texture of the stones. In
looking through a residential lighting fixture catalog we notice
a type of recessed fixture which is intended to wash walls with
light. This seems to be perfect to light the stone fireplace and
chimney. So we read the description of the fixture—each will
contain up to one 150-watt lamp. Referring to the lamp data in
Appendix IV, we see that a 150-watt inside frosted lamp gives
off approximately 2880 initial lumens. Since we are using two
of these lamps we now have selected lamps that give a total of
5760 lumens. This means that we have to select lamps for
15,120 more lumens (20,880 total required lumens minus
5760 lumens just selected = 15,120 lumens).
Oops! We forgot that these fixtures are recessed.
Therefore, we must multiply the total lumen output of the two

167
fixtures by a factor of 0.60, which gives us only 3466 total
lumens for the two fixtures. This means we now have 17,414
more lumens to account for.
Your spouse had previously expressed a desire for some
indirect lighting in this area so you have decided to use a
drapery cornice along the entire front wall of the living room.
You then selected four 40-watt fluorescent bare strip fixtures
to be concealed behind the cornice. Each fixture will contain
one 40-watt warm-white fluorescent lamp rated at 2080 lu¬
mens; this gives a total of 8320 lumens for the four fixtures.
Only 9094 lumens left to account for.
Two three-way (100-, 200-, 300-watt) lamps in table
lamps will be used on end tables located on each end of a sofa.
Two of them will give a total of 9460 lumens when switched to
the high rating. When combined with the other lamps in the
area this gives a total lumen output of 21,246 lumens, which is
close enough to our recommended figure of 20,880 lumens to
be nearly perfect.
As a final touch, dimmers should be added to the reces¬
sed fixtures at the fireplace and perhaps on the cornice
fluorescent light. Then, since the two three-way lamps can
also be dimmed by switching to different wattages, you can
vary the living room’s lighting levels exactly to the
activities—low for a relaxed mood, bright for a gay, party
mood.
Obviously this method of calculating residential lighting
requirements makes it possible to quickly and accurately
determine the number and size of light sources to achieve the
recommended lighting level in any area of the home.

SELECTING LIGHTING FIXTURES

Since there are numerous variable factors involved in
selecting the type of lighting fixture for a given application, no
set rules are available. However, the following guidelines
should prove useful to home owners:
■ Determine the total lumens required for a given area
from the previous listing in this chapter and by
methods demonstrated herein

168
 ■ Study residential lighting fixture catalogs to see
what types of fixtures are available. Also study in¬
terior decorating magazines for ideas
■ Prepare a master plan of the area. Then select a
fixture or fixtures that fits into the architectural or
decorating scheme of the area
■ When selecting the fixtures read the manufacturer’s
description in the catalog to find out the number and
size of lamps recommended for the fixture you have
selected. Then look in Appendix IV of this book to
obtain the lumen output of the lamps
Here are some additional hints on selecting proper lighting
fixtures for various areas in the home. For added conveni¬
ence, the separate areas are broken down so that each may be
discussed individually.

Living Room
This is the area in the home where guests are enter¬
tained and where the family gathers to relax, watch TV, or
engage in conversation. Lighting in this area should em¬
phasize any special architectural features such as planters,
bookcases, fireplaces, etc. Pull-down lighting fixtures or table
lamps placed at chairs or at the ends of sofas are used for
reading.

Dining Room & Kitchen

In residential dining rooms a chandelier mounted directly
above the dining table and controlled by a dimmer/s witch
becomes the centerpiece of the room while providing general
illumination. The dimmer adds versatility to the general il¬
lumination in that the lighting can be dimmed for formal dining
or made bright for an evening of cards.
In addition to the center chandelier supplementary light¬
ing at the buffet and sideboards are often desirable. Use
recessed accent light for a contemporary design and wall
brackets to match the chandelier for a traditional setting.
Other possibilities consist of using concealed fluorescent light¬
ing in valances or cornices.
The ideal general lighting system for a residential kitchen
would be a luminous ceiling. This lighting arrangement gives a

169
skylight effect, but it is also the most expensive to install. The
effect is achieved by installing rows of bare fluorescent strip
lighting fixtures above a dropped ceiling, consisting of ceiling
panels with attractive diffuser patterns. The fixtures should
be spaced approximately 2 feet on center.
If the luminous ceiling is not employed a fixture mounted
in the center of the kitchen area will provide general illumina¬
tion. Additional lights should be mounted over the sink, elec¬
tric range and under wall cabinets to provide light down on
countertops.
Many people spend at least a third of their time in their
bedroom, and the quality and layout of the bedroom lighting
should reflect this fact.
Basically bedroom lighting should be both decorative and
functional with flexibility of control in order to create the
desired lighting environment. For example, both reading and
sewing are two common activities occurring in the bedroom,
and both require good illumination to lessen eye strain. Other
activities, however, such as casual conversation, lovemaking
or watching TV, require only general nonglaring room illumi¬
nation, preferably controlled by a dimmer/switch.
Proper lighting in and around the closet area can do much
to help in the selection and appearance of clothing, and
supplementary lighting around the vanity will aid in personal
grooming.
Good light is needed in the bathroom for good grooming
and hygiene practices. If the bath is small usually the mirror
light combined with a tub or shower light will suffice. On the
other hand if the bathroom is large a bright central light source
is recommended with supplemental light at the mirror and
similar areas.

iaseraasit, Utility Room & Workshop

Basement, utility room and workshop require a similar
amount of illumination and lighting techniques. The general
lighting need only be about 45 lumens per square foot in these
areas,.but supplemental light over work areas of at least 70
lumens per square foot should be provided. Normally, these
areas will not be visited byguests, so you can use inexpensive

170
 fixtures in these areas, and use the money saved to improve
the lighting in other areas of the home.
A well-designed lighting layout for a family room would
include graceful blending of general lighting to illuminate the
overall area with well-chosen supplemental lighting to illumi¬
nate certain individual seeing tasks. For example, diffused
recessed incandescent lighting fixtures installed flush with the
ceiling of the family room will furnish even glare-free light
throughout the room if the proper number are installed and
they are spaced correctly.
Lamps concealed behind cornices near the ceiling will
enrich the natural beauty of paneled walls or the texture of
brick or natural stone walls. This technique is also very
effective over bookshelves where the light is positioned to
shine down over books with colorful bindings. Fluorescent
lamps concealed in a cove lighting system will not only furnish
excellent indirect general illumination for a family room, but
will also give the impression of a higher ceiling. This is a very
desirable effect in low-ceiling family rooms in basements of
homes.
We have only touched upon the many possibilities, but
one thing to keep in mind is that the lighting layout for any
family room should be highly flexible since this area is used for
a variety of daily activities. For instance,casual conversation is
enhanced amid subdued, complexion-flattering light such as
incandescent or warm-white fluorescent lamps controlled by
a dimmer switch. Game participants feel more comfortable in
a uniformly lighted room with some additional glare-free light
directed onto the playing areas. Low-level lighting over the
bar area should be just bright enough for mixing a drink or
having a snack. TV viewing requires only softly lighted sur¬
roundings, while reading requires a somewhat brighter light
source with light directed on the printed pages. By now you
should be getting some ideas of your own, so let’s see how we
can actually install some of these lighting fixtures.

INSTALLATION OF LIGHTING FIXTURES

Once you have determined the lighting layout and the
type of lighting fixture your next step is to install the fixture
outlet, runs wires to it, provide a switch or other means of

171
 Fig. 12-2. Four inch octagonal box
on which most lighting fixtures are
mounted.

controlling it and finally install the fixture itself. This is actually

the easiest part of proper lighting. The design and selection of
the fixture are the most difficult steps.
Actually the wiring of a lighting fixture outlet is no diffe¬
rent that the wiring for a duplex receptacle as described in
Chapter 6, or adding a wall switch as discussed in Chapter 7.
The only difference, and this is minor, is possibly the type of
outlet box.
Most lighting fixtures are designed to be mounted on a
4-inch octagon box such as the one shown in Fig. 12-2. This
figure shows a 4-inch octagon box with NM cable clamps and
also a bracket for mounting in unfinished areas. The bracket is
merely nailed or secured by some other means between two
ceiling joists.
For existing finished areas where the box opening must
be cut into the finished ceiling, an octagon box with mounting
ears (Fig. 12-3) should be used or else a regular box secured

Fig. 12-3. Octagonal box with mount¬

ing ears used in old work.

172
Fig. 12-4. Box supports used to secure outlet boxes in old work.

by switch box supports as shown in Fig. 12-4. However,

neither of these supports can take very much weight. If a
heavy chandelier is to be installed the outlet box should be
firmly secured to a structural member even if cutting and
patching of the ceiling is necessary.
A 120-volt lighting fixture will require two wires to feed
it, just like any other two-wire electrical device. If the fixture

173
 contains its own means of control, such as a built-in switch,
the wires are run exactly as described for duplex receptacles
in Chapter 6. The wiring methods described for either the
receptacle or switch circuits will be fine for feeding lighting
fixtures and methods of running the circuits are identical to
the receptacle or switch wiring.
If the newly installed lighting fixture requires an external
means of control use the techniques described in Chapters 7
and 8 to arrive at the best means of control for any given
situation.
Once the outlet and relative wiring is installed you simply
install the fixture according to the easy-to-read instructions
enclosed in the packing carton of nearly every fixture. All will
have two wires, and some a third bare grounding wire. The
grounding wire should be secured to a proven ground, such as
the outlet box, under a screw or by using an approved ground
clip. The remaining two leads are connected to the feeder
leads—black to black, and white to white. Make either a
rattail or fixture-wire splice (Fig. 12-5), and secure with wire
nuts.

174
 Chapter 13
Outdoor Lighting

Outside lighting should be a very important consideration for

the farmer or homeowner. Properly selected, located and
installed outside lighting can provide a safeguard against acci¬
dents at night, increase the afterhours farm efficiency and
protect the home and farm from prowlers. It also welcomes
guests and lights their way to the house entrance. It creates a
hospitable look and turns the area surrounding the home and
farm into an extra living and play area during warm weather.
In addition lighting reveals the beauty of flower gardens, trees
and foliage; expands the hospitality and comfort of patios and
porches; and stretches the hours for outdoor recreation or
work. In fact the time required to do after-dark work around
the farm such as watering, feeding and housing livestock, as
well as storing equipment and similar jobs, can be greatly
reduced with the aid of adequate light.
The yard lighting around the farm should be so located
that the most frequently used walkways and work areas are
well lighted. These same lights should be controlled from the
buildings most accessible to the area or else mounted to poles
to which the lighting fixtures and controls can be mounted.
Outdoor lighting between buildings should be so control¬
led that the light may be switched at either building. As
described in Chapter 8, such switching requires the use of

175
three- and four-way switches. If there are several such loca¬
tions or long distances between the lights and the switches it
may be better to use low-voltage remote-control switching to
cut down on the amount and size of wire, which, in turn, will
save the farmer money and time.
Some farmers who use low-voltage control for their
outdoor lighting also have a master switch installed in the farm
residence, either in the bedroom or kitchen, or both. This is
really an economical investment as a protection against prow¬
lers. With lights installed at poultry houses, feed storage
buildings, and other outbuildings thefarmer may turn any or all
of the lights on from the house should he suspect any distur¬
bances from prowlers.
Other farmers, as a matter of added insurance,* use
dusk-to-dawn lights controlled by photoelectric switches.
The lights are automatically turned on at dark and off at
daybreak. Most power companies even have a policy where
they will install dusk-to-dawn lights on the farmer’s property,
then furnish power for them, all at a predetermined flat rate.
Figure 13-1 shows a dusk-to-dawn light mounted on the
farm’s metering pole. Since the pole is located approximately
in the center of the farm buildings this one light suffices for the
entire farm lot. At the present time, the monthly lease for this
light is still low but increasing all of the time. It may be cheaper
to purchase one of these fixtures, available at most depart¬
ment stores, and do the installation yourself. In some loca¬
tions the cost of these flat-rated dusk-to-dawn arrangements
from the power company has doubled since initially installed.

INSTALLING OUTDOOR FARM LIGHTING

Basically there are three methods of installing circuits for
outdoor lighting: in metallic or PVC plastic conduit with
weatherproof fittings; underground wiring using type UF ca¬
ble; or overhead wiring using single-conductor wire. All are
satisfactory for outdoor wiring, but there are certain cases
where one type may be preferred over another. The following
paragraphs will explain the advantages and disadvantages of
each of the wiring methods mentioned.

176
177
Fig. 13-1. Dusk-to-dawn light mounted on a farm's metering pole.
 In areas where the soil is not too rocky, underground
wiring should be the preferred method as it has the following
advantages over the other types:

■ Underground lines are not subject to damage as are

overhead lines. Overhead lines are sometimes
struck by trucks passing beneath them; they often
break from heavy ice loads during winter months
and repairs and maintenance on underground lines
are much easier than on overhead lines.
■ Underground lines, of course, cannot be seen and
therefore presents a better appearance of the farm
yard. A lot of overhead lines give a cluttered look to
the most well-kept farm.
■ Underground wiring, when cable is used, is often
less expensive to install than other tpes of outdoor
wiring.
Figure 13-2 shows a section through a farmhouse and a
typical outbuilding requiring electric service. In this instance
the main-service panelboard is located in the basement of the
house, and it is desired to run an electric feeder to the barn
approximately 300 feet away. We begin the design by deter¬
mining the estimated load that will be connected. The follow¬
ing summary shows this farmer’s requirements:
12 150-watt lamps 1800 watts

4 120-volt duplex receptacle cir- 1000

cuit with maximum of 1000-watts
operating on circuit at any time

1 240-volt, 20-ampere receptacle 3800

for various portable heaters, etc.

Total load 6600 watts

Since a three-wire 240-volt cable will be used the total amper¬
age may be found by the formula,

6600 (watts)
Amperes = 27.5
240 (volts)

178
Fig. 13-2. Cross section through a farmhouse and an outbuilding.

We next determine the wire size by considering the voltage

drop for the distance of 300 feet. Refer to Table 9-2 to obtain
the recommended wire size to carry the estimated load at a
voltage drop not to exceed three percent. Look down the
left-hand column until you come to 30 amperes. Then read
across the line to the column under 300 feet. The table gives
AWG #4 as the proper wire size, and this will be the size UF
cable to use for the feeder circuit to the bam.
We have found that we need AWG #4 UF cable to keep
the voltage drop to within three percent, but in checking our
catalogs or inquiring at electrical supply houses we find that
the largest size UF cable is AWG #6. We will therefore have
to use single wires in the run in place of cable.
Figure 13-3 shows the buildings of Fig. 13-2 with the
completed system. It was installed by first removing the panel
cover, then removing one of the stamped 1-inch knockouts in
the top of the panel box, being careful not to come in contact
with any live electrical parts within the box. Insert a 1-inch
EMT connector in this knockout, and tighten the locknut to
hold it securely.
Next, drill a hole through the sill plate in line with the
1-inch knockout. You could have gone through the masonry
wall, but drilling through this wall with a star drill would have
taken much more time, plus it would provide an opening to
allow moisture to come into the conduit and also in the base¬
ment. At this opening in the sill plate you will need a conduit

179
180
USE AWG #12
THROUGHOUT

(X
<
z
HI
_1
CD
O
<
GC
Q
Fig. 13-3. Same buildings of Fig. 13-2 with the electrical wiring installed.
fitting similar to the one in Fig. 13-4 to make the 90-degree
bend, and also one outside of the house to make the 90-degree
bend to run the conduit below grade.
EMT connectors will be required at these fittings to
provide a secure connection of the EMT as you run it from
panel connector to the first conduit fitting inside of the base¬
ment, then through the sill plate to the other conduit fitting
outside of the house, and finally from this fitting to approxi¬
mately 18 inches below grade. Notice that a 90-degree long-
sweep type is on the end underground as well as a fiber
bushing to keep the insulation on the wires from becoming
damaged.
We will assume that you dug a small hole in the ground
near the basement wall to get the conduit 18 inches below
grade. But to dig the 300-foot trench by hand would be quite a
task, although it could be done. A better way would be to
attach a cultivator-type single plow to your tractor and plow
open the trench from the house to the building. Then use your
shovel to clean out the trench for the wires.
Your next logical step would be to install another run of
conduit at the bam to a small subpanel located on the inside of
the bam. Install another 90-degree bend in the trench like you
did at the house, run the conduit up to the height of the
subpanel and use a conduit fitting to make the 90-degree bend
at this point. Then run a short nipple from this fitting through
the barn wall directly to the back of the subpanel. Your conduit
system is now complete. Next comes the wires.

Fig. 13-4. Conduit fitting used to make

90-degree bend and pipe run.

181
 If your soil contains lots of small sharp rocks it will be
necessary to shovel in about a 2-inch layer of sand in the
bottom of the trench before installing the wires.
Now pull the three current-carrying conductors and one
grounding conductor from the panel in the basement to the
subpanel in the bam. The wires at the basement panel should
be protected with a two-pole, 30-ampere circuit breaker,
tieing the two hot wires to it, and connecting the white or
neutral wire to the solid neutral bus bar inside of the panel-
board. The two hot wires on the other end will connect to the
main lugs on the bars, and the neutral again to the neutral bus.
The grounding wire will connect at both ends to the isolated
grounding terminals inside of each panel.
Before filling the trench another 2 inches of sand should
be placed on top of the wires to protect them from sharp
stones. It wouldn’t hurt to also place a continuous warning
ribbon along the trench a few inches below grade in case any
digging in the area at a later data is anticipated. Figure 13-5
shows a cross section of a trench with buried wires. Note the
sand, warning ribbon, etc.
In the subpanel in the barn you will need two 15-ampere
one-pole circuit breakers to protect two lighting circuits, one
15-ampere one-pole circuit breaker for the receptacle circuit
and one 20-ampere two-pole circut breaker for the 20-ampere
receptacle. From these circuit breakers in the subpanel, you
may use AWG #12 for all the circuits, which may be installed
and connected as described earlier in this book for similar
circuits.

INSTALLING OUTSIDE RESIDENTIAL LIGHTING

The first area of your home to be considered is the
entrance to your home. With proper entrance lighting a vis¬
itor’s first impression will be a good one. And, at the same
time, you’ll show your family and friends you really care
enough to clear a path through the dark to see them safely to
your door.
A post-mounted lighting fixture at the walk is also a good
idea. Figure 13-6 shows one way of installing one. The circuit
feeding the post lamp begins at the panelboard and runs to a
junction box on the outside wall. This wiring can be installed

182
 GROUND LEVEL

183
Fig. 13-5. Cross section of a trench with buried wires
Fig. 13-6. Post-mounted lighting fixture.

by any wiring method approved for indoor wiring, such as NM

cable. A piece of conduit is then used from the junction box
through the mansonry wall to a foot or so beyond the wall on
the outside of the house, and at least 18 inches below grade.
Both ends of this conduit have fiber bushings to protect the
wire from cuts and other damage. A splice is made within the
junction box to connect the NM cable to direct-burial-type UF
cable. The cable then runs from the junction box to the
connection point of the post lamp. In this case, the wires are

184
Fig. 3-8. Dusk-to-dawn light used to illuminate entrance roadways to homes and
farms.

Fig. 13-9. Decorative lighting, like this well light, can be used to great advantage
in improving the outside appearance of one's house or lawn during night hours.

185
Fig. 13-10. Outdoor lighting installed around farm yards enables farmers to
perform tasks after dark safer and with greater efficiency.

enclosed in a sheathed cable and consists of two AWG #12

wires and one grounding wire.
Outdoor patios may be lighted by a combination of wall-
mounted fixtures on the side of your home adjacent to the
patio, floodlights mounted under the eaves of your house or
low-level mushroom lighting fixtures installed along the

Fig. 13-11. Outdoor lighting around the home tends to deter prowlers while at
the same time invites guests.

186
perimeter of the patio. When selecting these fixtures from
manufacturer’s catalogs always choose types that match the
architectural character of the home.
Lighting colorful shrubs and flowers is another method of
decorating the outside of your home. Try installing ground-
mounted up-lights under trees on the lawn that will shine up
through the tree branches. This will add elegance to any lawn
and home.
Figures 13-7 through 13-11 show several outdoor light¬
ing schemes employed by homeowners to enhance the ap¬
pearance of their home and to extend the outside activities
beyond darkness. You will be able to get other ideas from
residential lighting catalogs. Addresses of some are listed in
Appendix III.
Personal taste is the final factor to be considered in the
process of selecting outdoor lighting equipment, but always
try to get ones that are durable as outdoor fixtures. Normally
these have to stand a great amount of abuse throughout the
year.

187
Chapter 14
What About Motors?

In every household and around every farm there is a need for

electric motors...many electric motors. Your refrigerator
uses a hermetically sealed motor to help keep your food cool.
When your forced air system calls for heat or cooling a motor
drives the blower fan to force the air through the ducts and out
the air outlets. The list of appliances and equipment powered
by electric motors does not end here. Vacuum cleaners,
water pumps, conveyor belts, ventilating fans, sewing
machines, and many other similar pieces of equipment depend
upon electric motors to make the equipment function.
When you purchase an appliance or piece of equipment
with built-in motors the motor has already been sized by
qualified engineers and the proper type selected for the best
operation to run the appliance. However, there will be times
when you will have to size and select your own motor for
custom appliances often needed in the home or for use around
the farm. For example, you might need a bench grinder or
buffing wheel, an air compressor or a paint sprayer. Or maybe
you have constructed a fan to provide ventilation for one of
your stock-holding buildings. What size and type of motor will
you use to drive these various items?
The selection of the right motor to do the job involves
several factors, but the following will serve as a basic guide in
doing so.

188
 ■ The motor must be of the correct physical size to fit
the piece of equipment in which it is to be installed
■ It must be rated at the correct horsepower to drive
the load which the equipment is intended to ac¬
complish
■ The motor must be wound for the correct voltage
characteristics, that is, the proper line voltage and
phase to match that of the electrical system to which
it will be connected
■ Speed is an important factor if the motor is con¬
nected directly to the load. However, you will have
some degree of margin when the motor is connected
to gear or belt drives as the desired speed can be
obtained by adjusting the pulley or gear ratio when
coupling the motor to its load
■ The type of the motor is also important. For the
same horsepower there are many different types of
motors for different types of load, and you must
select the proper type for the best results
To give you the basis for selecting the proper size and type of
motor for a given application you should first have a know¬
ledge of the operating characteristics of electric motors.
Most motors used in the home and around the farm are of
the single-phase type for use on either 120- or 240-volt lines.
They are further divided into types that differ from one
another by the methods used in starting them; the main types
being:

■ Capacitor-start
■ Split-phase
■ Capacitor-start, capacitor-run
■ Repulsion-start, induction-run
H Universal
H Shaded-pole

It would take several volumes to describe in detail the operat¬

ing and starting characteristics of each of these types, so we
will give only a brief description of each and the most common
loads for which the type is used.

189
CAPACITOR-START MOTOR
This type of motor is wound and wired so that a capacitor
is connected in series with the starting winding to give this
type of motor a high starting torque for use on appliances that
are likely to be difficult to start. Capacitor-start motors are
normally manufactured in sizes from Vs to 7lh horsepower and
are well suited for use on refrigerators, washers, pumps,
milking machines and similar types of appliances.

SPLIT-PHASE MOTOR
Motors of the split-phase type have a special starting
winding that limits the starting torque to approximately twice
that of the full-load torque. Once the motor has reached a
certain given speed, a centrifugal switch cuts out the starting
winding and the motor runs like a regular induction motor.
This type of motor is made in sizes from 1/20 to 1/3 horse¬
power and is best suited for use on loads where the full load
will not be applied until after the device or appliance reaches
its full speed. One example of its use would be to drive a bench
grinder. The motor is started under a very light load to start
the grinding wheel revolving. When the motor reaches full
speed the grinder can be used to sharpen bits and similar
items, which makes the motor work at its full capacity since
pressure is placed against the wheel. Other uses would in¬
clude small ventilating fans and small stationary shop tools
such as drill presses, buffing machines, and sanders.

CAPACITOR-START CAPACITOR-RUM MOTOR

This type of motor starts in the same way that a regular
capacitor-start motor does, and, in addition, has a capacitor in
the running circuit as well as the starting circuit. However,
the starting-winding circuit cuts out when the motor reaches
its full speed. This type of motor has high operating efficiency
and is well suited for use on appliances where the load is
connected directly to the motor without belts, pulleys or
gears. Such applications include refrigerators, small cen¬
trifugal pumps, and ventilating fans requiring a drive rated
from V2 to 10 horsepower.

190
REPULSION-START INDUCTION-RUN MOTOR
This type of motor is started by means of two magnetic
fields that causes the rotor to turn. Once the rotor reaches its
running speed the brushes are automatically lifted away from
the rotor and the motor then runs as an induction motor.
Motors of this type are well suited for driving equipment that
have heavy starting loads such as chain conveyors, reciprocat¬
ing pumps, air compressors, feed grinders, etc. They are
available in sizes from V2 to 10 horsepower.

UNIVERSAL MOTOR
A universal motor, as the name implies, will operate on
either DC or AC circuits, and is used to drive electric hand
tools, vacuum cleaners, food mixers, sewing-machines, and
similar household appliances. This type of motor should al¬
ways be operated under load as this is the only means of speed
control. If operated under no load, this type of motor will
reach very high and dangerous speeds. Most of these motors
are manufactured in fractional horsepower only.

SHADED-POLE MOTOR
In place of auxiliary windings in split-phase motors, the
shaded-pole motor has a squirrel-cage rotor and copper loops
across the stator coils to produce the shaded-pole effect. It is
always made in fractional horsepower only and can start only
very light loads. Such loads might include electric clocks, a
small bathroom fan, a film projector, etc. Its restricted use is
offset by the low cost of such motors.

ELECTRIC MOTOR MAINTENANCE

The proper care of electric motors is very important to
insure that each will have a long life. But few motors used
around the home or farm ever get a fraction of the care they
need. Most homeowners purchase a new appliance, run it
hard for as long as it will last, then purchase a new one. This is
sad indeed because with a little care electric motors can
outlive the appliance that they are driving. To verify this fact
take a look at the many people who are using appliances over
30 years old. Also, when these same people do buy new

191
appliances to replace the old, the electric motor will still be
good nine out of ten times.
Here are a few items that will prolong the life of your
electric motors and will also enable them to operate at their
highest efficiency.
Make sure that you use the proper wire size for the
electric circuit feeding the motor to keep voltage drop to the
minimum. Low voltage not only lowers the efficiency of the
motor but also shortens its life considerably.
Keep the coils of an open or dripproof motor clean by
blowing the dust out of the coils at regular intervals. The
frequency of these intervals will depend on the kind of en¬
vironment the motor is used. Dirty coils will cause the motor
to overheat from lack of internal ventilation and will cause the
insulation to break down sooner than it should.
Put a few drops of oil in the bearings of motors that
require lubrication as shown in Fig. 14-1. But don’t use too
much, since excess might get into internal switch contacts or
else the inside of the motor and damage the insulation of the
coils. Always use the type of oil recommended by the man¬
ufacturer.
Keep the belt pulley', and the shafts on which they are
mounted properly aligned, as other the belt will soon wear
out. The pulleys should be aligned so that a straightedge
placed across their faces (Fig. 14-2) contacts both edges of
both pulleys. Figure 14-3 shows two examples of pulleys that
are improperly aligned.

192
 ——

PULLEYS PROPERLY ALIGNED

Fig. 14-2. Example of properly aligned motor pulleys.

Also make certain that all pulley belts are under the
proper tension. Too loose a belt causes slippage and exces¬
sive belt and pulley wear while a too tight a belt will cause
excessive wear on the motor bearings. A rule of thumb for
adjusting pulley belts for proper tension is to tighten the belts
so that approximately a half-inch can be depressed between
motor and the machine being driven as shown in Fig. 14-4.
Unless specifically designed for wet or damp locations,
keep all motors free from excessive moisture as this will
cause the winding insulation to break down much faster than it
should.
Keep motor mounts tight to prevent excessive vibration
and to keep the pulleys and shafts aligned. Either will cause
damage to both the belts and the motor bearings.

r, NO
N0 J CONTACT
WCONTACT u

PULLEYS OUT OF LINE

nct: feS^NO"
CONTACT
U [contact

SHAFTS OUT OF LINE

Fig. 14-3. Examples of improperly aligned motor pulleys.

193
 Table 14-1. Motor Overcurrent Protection Ratings

FUSE AMPERE RATING

• MOTOfl HORSEPOWER 1 1 MAX SIZE
3-PHASE 2-PHASE STD’ | HD2 | 40°C | ALL OTHERS
AMPERAGE 1| )16y
ftWrtMAut ,PHASE
230V 206V 230V 460V 575V 230V 460V
1.01 to 1.04 Vi Vi i m i4/»o iy«
1.05 to 1.08 m iyio i%
1.09 to 1.14 % U/4 1V4 IVio lyio
1.15 to 1.17 m u/4 iVio h/io
1.18 to 1.41 % iV4 i4/io iyio i%o
1.22 to 1.28 154 14/io 1%o 1%o .
1.29 to 1.30 U/4 14/l0 IVio 1<Ho
1.31 to 1.39 i4/io i4io iyio iyio
1.40 to 1.42 Yi 1 iyio iyio iyio iyio
1.43 to 1.46 i4/io iyio 2 iyio
1.47 to 1.56 iyio i#o i mW
1.57 to 1.60 l IVio 1¥io 2 2 .
1.61 to 1.66 iyio iyio 21/4
1.67 to 1.73 iyio 2 21/4 2
1.74 to 1.80 1 iyio 2 21/4 21/4
1.81 to 1.87 iyio 2 2% 21/4 .
1.88 to 1.95 w* Wi wr
1.96 to 2.00 % Vi 2 21/4 21/2 2%
2.01 to 2.08 ~ 2%2V10 21/2
2.09 to 2.17 lVi 21/4 2Vi 2yi0 214
2.18 to 2.28 1/6 Vi 2% 21/2 2yio 2y10
2.29 to 2.34 1V4 254 21/2 32/l0 28/10
2.35 to 2.43 % 21/2 2yio 32/10 2yio
2.44 to 2.56 2Vi 2yio 32/10 32/io
2.57 to 2.60 XVi 2 v/k iyio 3y4
2.61 to 2.78 2yio 32/10 31/2 3%o
2.79 to 2.85 % 28/io 32/10 31/2 314
2.86 to 2.91 V, 28/io 3Vio 4 31/.
2.92 to 3.04 2 3yio 31/2 4 5yT^
3.05 to 3.21 % 1 3%o 3% 4 4
3.22 to 3.33 3yio 3i/4 4V4 4
3.34 to 3.47 2 31/2 4 41/4 4
3.48 to 3.60 l/3~ 1 3i/4 4 41/2 41/2
3.61 to 3.64 314 4 5 41/4
3.65 to 3.91 3 4 4V4 5 41/2
3.92 to 4.00 1 4 4V4 5 5
4.01 to 4.16 4 4y4 5yio 5
4.17 to 4.34 3 4V4 5 5yio 5
4.35 to 4.48 1/6 4i/4 5 5yio 5yio
4.49 to 4.68 m 4V4 5 61/4 56/10
4.69 to 4.86 3 5 5yio 6 Vi 56/io
4.87 to 5.00 Vi 5 56/io 61/4 61/4
5.51 to 5.20 IVi 5 56/io 7 61/4
5.21 to 5.43 56/io 61/4 7 61/4
5.44 to 5.71 lVi 5yio 61/4 7 7
5.72 to 5.82 Vi 5Vio 61/4 8 7
5.83 to 6.08 2 6i/4 7 8 7
6.09 to 6.42 5 6% 7 8 8
6.43 to 6.50 6*4 7 9 8
6.51 to 6.95 Yt 2 5 7 8 9 8
6.96 to 7.201/3 7 8 9 9
7.21 to 7.28 7 8 10 9
7.29 to 7.82 2 5 8 9 10 9
7.83 to 8.32 1 3 8 9 in in
8.33 to 8.57 " 9 10 10 10
8.58 to 8.69 9 10 12 10
8.70 to 9.36 ' 7Vi 7 Vi 9 TO Yi. T2
9.37 to 10.4 Vi Vh 3 10 12 12 12
10.5 to 10.7 3 12 12 12 12
10.8 to 12.4 2 7 Vi 10 10 12 15 15 15
12.5 to 13.0 " 15 15 171/4 15
1U % 10 5 15 17V, 17V. 171A
1— Standard service
2— Heavy duty service
3— Applies to motors marked to have a temperature rise not over 40°C Of marked with a service lactor not less than 1.15.
shown in next column
AH other motors take maximum

194
 Table 14-1 (Icontinued from page 194)
FUSE AMPERE RATING
MOTOR HORSEPOWER MAH SIZE
3-PHASE 2-PHASE
amperageI 208V 230V 460V 575V
STD' 1 HO* 40°C |all others
230V 460V
14.3 to 15.2 5 15 17 V4 20 171.4
15.3 to 15.6 15 HVi 20 20
15.7 to 17.8 1 3 5 15 20
171,4 20 *6
17.9 to 20.8 1(4 TVjf 15 2(1 25 25 ?s
20.9 to 21.4 15 25 25 25 25
21.5 to 21.7 25 25 30 25
21.8 to 24.9 2 ?*<£ IVi 20 10 20 25 ""30-““35“-30
25.0 to 26.0 25 30 35 30
26.1 to 28.5 5 10 20 25 30 35 35 35
28.6 to 30.4 25 30 35 40 35
30.5 to 32.1 10 ir 30 35 40 40 40 '
32.2 to 34.7 3 25 35 40 45 40
34.8 to 36.0 15 30 35 40 45 45
36.1 to 39.1 40 45 50 45
39.2 to 41.2 7V4 30 40 40 45 50 50
41.3 to 42.8 15 45 50 50 50
42.9 to 43.4 45 50 60 50
43.5 to 46.0 40 45 50 60 60
46.1 to 49.9 15 20 50 60 60 60
50.0 to 51.0 10 50 60 7(1 60
51.1 to 52.1 40 50 60 60 70 60
52.2 to 57.1 5 20 50 60 70 70 70
57.2 to 60.0 20 25 60 70 "75— 70 ~
60.1 to 64.2 60 70 80 8(1 80
64.3 to 69.5 25 50 30 60 70 80 90 80
69.6 to 72.0 70 80 90 90
72.1 to 78.2 25 60 75 80 90 100 90
78.3 to 78.5 80 90 100 100
78.6 to 82.0 7'h 30 80 90 110 100
82.1 to 86.9 75 90 100 110 100
87.0 to 89.2 30 90 100 110 110
89.3 to 91.5 40 90 100 125 110
91.6 to 95.6 100 110 125 110
95.7 to 100 10 75 100 100 110 125 125
101 to 108 40 110 125 125 125
109 to 114 40 50 100 110 125 150 150
115 to 124 1(H) 125 150 150 150
125 to 130 50 125 125 150 175 150
131 to 142 60 125 150 175 175 175
143 to 152 50 150 150 175 20(1 175
153 to 160 60 125 150 175 200 200 200
161 to 173 60 75 175 200 225 200
174 to 177 175 200 225 225
178 to 180 150 200 225 225 225
181 to 195 75 200 200 225 250 225
196 to 200 200 225 250 250
201 to 214 75 2<x; 225 250 250 250
215 to 217 225 250 300 - ...252-
218 to 230 1(H) 225 250 300 300
231 to 249 1(H) 2(H) 250 300 300 300
250 to 260 250 300 350 300
261 to 285 100 125 m 350 350 , 350-
286 to 304 300 350 400 350
305 to 321 125 150 350 400 400 400
322 to 347 125 350 400 450 400
348 to 350 -35Q- 4QQ 450 450.
351 to 360 150 400 450 450 450
361 to 391 400 450 500 450
392 to 400 150 400 450 500 500
401 to 428 2(H) 450 500 .500- 500
429 to 434 450 500 600 500
435 to 450 450 500 600 600
motor* market! to have a tern 'era tu re rise not over 40° G. or marked with a
service factor ol not less than 1.15. All other motors tak e maximum * hown in fourth column.
(430'32al)
are shown on motor, make sure for what voltage motor is connected.
Horse power of motor gives no definite indication of size Fusetron or Low-Peak fuse to be used
as amperage of AC motors of the same size varies a great deal
Note: Use Fusetron fuses on D.C. motor*. See page 20.
n PH Fuse* Si'cetfv FRN plu Amp*. tor 250V.; hRS plus Amp*, lor bu'V .
In ordering 1 ow-IY ■ It n.H. Hum;. Sp.vifv 1 I’N pi. * Amp- lor 2SPV.; 1 TS plus Amps, for

195
 The appliance or machine that is being driven is often
overlooked during maintenance of electric motors, but this is
just as important. A faulty bearing in the shaft of the machine
being driven can cause an excessive overload and damage the
motor. However, if the motor circuit is provided with the
proper overload protection the circuit will usually open before
any harmful damage is done to the motor under such condi¬
tions. Therefore, always make certain that each of your
motors are fused with the recommended fuse or circuit
breaker size (see Table 14-1) and also provided with an
overload relay or “heater” as they are sometimes called.

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS OF ELECTRIC MOTORS

The bench grinder is a simple tool needed around every
farm and home shop for sharpening metal drill bits, axes,
knives and similar tools, as well as buffing various items and
removing burrs from metal objects. A quarter-horsepower
motor will be just about right and, as mentioned previously,
the motor does not have to have a high starting torque since
grinders are started with little or no load.
If your motor has a speed of around 3600 RPM you can
connect the grinding wheel directly to the motor shaft by
means of a simple motor arbor designed for the size wheel you
intend to use. But if you will be using a slower speed motor,
such as the common 1800 RPM ones, you will need a V-belt
drive having a pulley ratio of about two to one to produce the
correct speed at the grinding wheel. A split-phase motor
would be ideal for this application.
Assume that you have just purchased or constructed a
compact power saw with tilting or rolling table to saw logs up

196
to 12 inches thick. Now you must select and install an electric
motor for this saw. Always check with the manufacturer’s
recommendations, but the majority of these table saws will
operate best with a 1-horsepower repulsion-start induction-
run type motor rated at 1800 RPM. Both the motor and saw
frame should be firmly secured and aligned to accept a pulley
V-belt drive.
If your motor speed does not correspond to the speed
required by the machine, usually the speed can be changed on
one or the other by means of pulley wheels or gears. For
determining pulley sizes and speeds, the following formula
may be used,

motor pulley dia x motor RPM

Machine pulley dia
machine RPM

In using this formula all pulley diameters should be calculated

in inches. For example, we have just installed a motor rated at
1720 RPM with an 8-inch motor pulley to drive a feed mill at
3600 RPM. What size pulley should be used on the mill to
obtain this speed? Substitute known values in the formula to
get,

8(inches) x 1720 (RPM)

Machine pulley dia = 3.82
3600 (RPM)
Therefore, a 4-inch pulley on the mill would give the approxi¬
mate required RPM.
The following table gives some of the most common
appliances used in the household or around the farm, the size
motor (in hp) most used on each type, and the recommended
motor type to use in case a replacement is needed or else you
acquired the machine without a motor.
Application of Fractional Horsepower Motors

MACHINE NORMAL HP RECOMMENDED MOTOR TYPE

Churn 1/6 or i/4 split-phase
Concrete mixer 1/4 to 1/2 repulsion induction
Corn sheller 1/4 capacitor-start
Cream separator 1/4 capacitor-start
Fanning mill 1/4 split-phase
Farm/home shop equip 1/4 to 1/2 capacitor-start/
repulsion induction

197
 MACHINE NORMAL HP RECOMMENDED MOTOR TYPE
Fruit grader V4 repulsion induction
Bench grinder 1/4 split-phase
-Potato grader 1/2 repulsion induction/
capacitor-start
Hydraulic pump 1/2- repulsion induction/
capacitor-start
Root cutter 1/2 tO 1 capacitor-start
Meat grinder 1/4 split-phase
Sheering tool .1/4 capacitor-start
Small feed grinder 1/2 tO 1 repulsion induction/
1/4 capacitor-start
Washing machine capacitor-start

MOTOR REPAIRS
If the winding in a fractional horsepower motor bums up
it is usually less expensive to replace it with a new one than it
would be to attempt a repair. However, there are some faults
that occur on these motors that the homeowner or farmer can
easily repair. Here are some of the most common troubles
and the method of repairing them; most will occur on the
universal type motors. When a motor will not run, check the
following in the order given:
1. No current at the outlet; Check with a voltmeter. If
no current exists determine the trouble and replace
fuse or reset circuit breaker. The reason for the
blown fuse could be a shorted cord.
2. A damaged attachment plug or open or shorted
cord. Check the cord with an ohmmeter as de¬
scribed earlier. Repair or replace.
3. A broken switch on the appliance. Open the wiring
to switch and test with an ohmmeter. Replace if
defective.
4. Broken, shattered or worn brushes. Open brush
holder and inspect. If broken or worn replace with
new ones.
5. Motor windings burned out. Check each with ohm¬
meter or better yet, with your nose. Usually you can
immediately tell by the odor if the windings are
burned out. If so, replace with a new motor on
smaller ones (under 1 horsepower) or have the
larger sizes rewound at a motor repair shop.
If none of these five faults seem to be causing the trouble, it
will be best to call in a repairman to find the trouble.

198
 Chapter 15
Why Overcurrent Protection?

Use of electricity, when its systems are properly installed and

provided with overcurrent protection, is one of the safest and
most efficient forms of energy known to man. On the other
hand improperly installed electrical systems can not only
cause hazards to property in the form of fires, but can also
cause harmful injuries to people in the form of deadly electrical
shock.
Therefore, every wiring system, no matter what type it
may be, must be installed properly using approved materials
for the purpose and in a workmanlike manner using methods
approved by the National Electrical Code. One strict re¬
quirement of the National Electrical Code is that every elec¬
trical circuit be provided with proper overcurrent protection.
Note the word proper.
Sometimes, when a fuse blows, some person who
doesn’t understand the function and safety value of overcur¬
rent protective devices may replace the blown fuse with one
of a higher rating (a 30-ampere fuse in place of the original
15-ampere fuse), a piece of copper wire, or in some cases,
even places a copper penny behind the blown fuse in order to
allow the current to pass through the penny with no protec¬
tion. All are exceedingly dangerous practices and should
never be duplicated under any circumstances.

199
 Fig. 15-1. Plug fuses are made with
a threaded base.

Overcurrent devices in electrical systems are similar in

purpose to safety valves on steam boilers. With a boiler
should the steam pressure rise to a point that it is unsafe,
more than the strength of the boiler should stand, the safety
valve opens and relieves this pressure. In electrical circuits
whenever the current load becomes more than the conduc¬
tors should safely carry the fuses blow or the circuit breakers
trip and opens the circuit, which stops the current flow. This
prevents damage to the conductor insulation, the equipment
being fed and other components on the circuit. It also pre¬
vents the wires from heating to a point where they could
cause fires. The circuit could be a high-voltage transmission
line or a 120-volt lighting circuit, but each must have some
form of protection of the proper size and type.
In residential and farm electrical systems overcurrent
protective devices consist of fuses and circuit breakers that
are usually factory assembled and placed in a metal cabinet
commonly called a load center or panelboard.
Fusible service equipment or fuse blocks are rated at 15,
20, 30, 60, 100, 200, 400 amperes etc. Although the equip¬
ment themselves do not have any inbetween ratings, the
fuses installed in the equipment may have any rating below the
equipment rating. For example, assume that a piece of elec¬
trical equipment like an electric range requires an overcurrent
protection of 40 amperes. A 60-ampere switch or fuse block
will have to be installed, but only 40-ampere fuses will be
inserted in the fuse holders. Therefore, the wires feeding this
range need only be rated for 40 amperes also.
Fusible panelboards are available containing main fuse
blocks to kill (deactivate) the entire panel when pulled. In

200
addition they contain other fuse spaces for the connection of
from two to forty branch circuits. One fuse space is needed for
each 120-volt circuit, and two spaces are required for each
240-volt circuit.
Fuses are made in many different styles and sizes for
different voltages and current loads, but they all operate on
the same general principle; that is, when excessive current
flows through the fuse a piece of soft metal within the fuse
becomes overheated and melts the metal link. This in turn
opens the circuit. The temperature at which the fuse link
melts depends upon the amount of excess current, the dura¬
tion of excess current and the ease with which heat escapes
from the fuse. If the fuse did not open the circuit when
excessive current occurred for any length of time the wiring
would bum, equipment would be damaged or a fire or personal
injury would occur.
So by now we should readily see the great importance of
having overcurrent protection of the proper size and type in
every electrical circuit.

PLUG FUSES
Plug fuses are made with ratings from 1 to 30 amperes.
These fuses are the type most commonly used for overcur¬
rent protection in residential wiring systems. All are made
with a threaded base (see Fig. 15-1) which screws into a
socket similar to a lamp socket. Several types of plug fuses
are shown in Fig. 15-2.
Up until 1935 all plug fuses were made with the same
threaded base known as the Edison base. However, electrical
inspectors found that many people, ignorant of the importance

Fig. 15-2. Illustration showing different types of plug fuses.

201
of proper overcurrent protection, would use fuses of too large
a size or else used pennies or other materials to bridge the
fuse. This, of course, wiped out all protection.
In order to guard against improper use of plug fuses a
different base was developed to prevent the use of pennies or
other bridging material, making it virtually impossible to
tamper with the fuse protection. This type of fuse is made to
fit into regular Edison base fuseholders by means of a simple
inexpensive adpater that locks in place. The altered fuse base
can then be removed or inserted in the same manner as an
ordinary fuse.

CARTRIDGE FUSES
If the circuits to be protected require a rating of over 30
amperes, cartridge fuses are necessary. Figure 15-3 shows
two types of cartridge fuses which are commonly used in the
home and around the farm. The forms of these two fuses were
adopted in 1904 and the dimensions were standardized and
are still in use today. The standard cartridge fuse in Fig.
15-3A is rated from 1 to 60 amperes. Fuses are held in place
by spring clips on the fuse block which grip the metal ferrule at
the end of the cartridge. This makes them very easy and quick
to renew when one blows out. The metal fuse link is enclosed
inside of the fiber cartridge which prevents its temperature
from being affected by air currents. Also the fiber cartridge
keeps the molten metal confined on the inside of the cartridge
when the fuse blows.
Large sizes of fuses from 65 to 600 amperes are made in
the knife-blade type. These as the name implies have a short
blade attached to each end caps as shown in Fig. 15-3B.
Another type of fuse that is very useful, especially on
motor circuits, is the time-lag fuse. This type has a fuse link
element and a thermal cutout element. On overloads the
circuit is opened by the thermal cutout. This thermal cutout
has a very long time-lag so that the fuse will not open on
harmless overloads or ordinary motor-starting currents.
The fuse link is made heavier than those used in an
ordinary fuse of the same rating. It protects only against short
circuit. This type of fuse will open on short circuits as safely as
an ordinary fuse.

202
Fig. 15-3. Larger rated fuses. (A) Standard cartridge fuse manufactured in
ratings from 1 to 60 amperes. (B) Knife-blade type fuses are rated from 65 to 600
amperes.

This type of fuse construction has the added advantage of

a lesser electrical resistance than ordinary fuses so that it will
not cause as much heating as ordinary fuses.
In selecting any fuse or fuse holder for use in the home or
farm electrical system they should be approved and labeled by
Underwriters’ Laboratory, Inc., because some cheap unap¬
proved types have been known to cause injury.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker resembles an ordinary toggle switch,
and it is probably the most widely used means of overcurrent
protection in the home today. While fuses have advantages
over circuit breakers for certain types of industrial applica¬
tions circuit breakers are the choice for overcurrent protec¬
tion for most residential and farm electrical systems.
On an overload the circuit breaker opens itself or trips
automatically. In a tripped position, the handle jumps to the
middle position as shown in Fig. 15-4. To reset turn the
handle to the off position, then push it as far as it will go in this
same direction; next, turn it to the on position again.
One single-pole breaker is required to protect each
120-volt circuit while one double-pole breaker is required to
protect each 240-volt single-phase circuit. If the circuit is
protecting a three-phase circuit, then a three-pole breaker
will be required. Circuit breakers are rated in amperes, just
like regular fuses, although the particular ratings are not
exactly the same for circuit breakers as those for fuses.

203
 Circuit-breaker enclosures are manufactered in several
types. One type contains only branch-circuit breakers, while
another contains a main-circuit breaker to kill all circuits
contained in the enclosure as well as additional branch-circuit
breakers. Most of the circuit breaker types used for residen¬
tial and farm applications are of the plug-in type, which means
that the cabinets or enclosures are sold in various ratings but
without circuit breakers. They have only the bus bars and
provisions for attaching the breakers. The user then selects
whatever combination of circuit breakers required for the
protection of the circuits in his electrical system and plugs
them into this bus bar arrangement.

SELECTING PROPER OVERCURRENT PROTECTION

In general the fuse size should never exceed the rating of
the wires themselves. For example, Table III-l in Appendix
III gives the current carrying capacity of most types of wires
used in home and farm electrical systems. If the wire size in a
given circuit is, say, AWG #14 the maximum fuse size should
be rated at 15 amperes. If AWG #12 the maximum fuse size
should be 20 amperes. The only exception to this rule is when
standard fuses are used to protect motor circuits. Then the
fuse size may be increased slightly to compensate for the
higher starting current required on motor circuits. Table 14-1
gives the proper fuse sizes for motors of various horsepower;
these meet requirements set forth in the National Electrical
Code.
For other circuits the size fuse or circuit breaker may be
determined by the nameplate rating of the circuit. If an elec¬
tric heating circuit, for example, has a load of 5600 watts of
resistance type heaters, what size wire and overcurrent pro¬
tection would be required? The applied voltage is 240 volts.
First the amperage is calculated by

Amperes = x 1.25
240 (volts
= 29.16

From Table III-l in Appendix III we see that the rating closest
to the calculated load without going under it is 30 amperes.

204
Fig. 15-4. Drawing of a typical circuit breaker showing the various positions of
the handle.

This calls for a AWG #10 wire that should be fused at 30

amperes.
Sometimes the overcurrent protection size will be smal¬
ler than the rated wire size. One such example would be when
the wire size must be increased above its normal current
rating to compensate for voltage drop. An electric brooder
draws 14 amperes of current and AWG #12 wire would nor¬
mally be quite sufficient to carry the current. However, this
load is 175 feet away from the power source and we find that
to keep the voltage drop to within two percent AWG #6 wire is
required. Table III-l in Appendix III gives the rating of AWG
#6 wire to be 55 amperes. But since the load is only 14
amperes we could use a 20-ampere fuse or circuit breaker on
this circuit. Why not a 15-ampere circuit breaker? Remember
we stated previously that it is recommended that certain
types of circuits be rated at 125 percent above their namep¬
late rating. Therefore, 14 amperes x 1.25 = 17.5 amperes; a
20-ampere circuit breaker is the next closest to 17.5 amperes
without going under it.
You may be wondering why we recommend oversizing
the circuits by 125 percent. Besides being the National Elec¬
trical Code requirement on certain circuits slightly oversizing
electrical circuits helps to cut down on excessive heat, voltage
drop, etc., and allows a little room for electrical variances.

205
 For example, take the electric brooder just mentioned.
The nameplate says that at 120-volts the heater will draw 14
amperes. This meanheating element has 8.57 ohms resis¬
tance (volt divided by amperes equal ohms).
Now, it is a known fact that voltages fluctuate on power
company lines during certain times during the day. One such
time is during the late afternoon when most people are cook¬
ing dinner on their electric ranges. The heavy load imposed on
the power lines at this time causes a voltage drop throughout
the power company’s lines. To compensate for this voltage
drop many power companies raise their voltage at the
generators at this time by possibly as much as ten percent.
This is fine, but suppose for a few minutes, your 120-volt
normal line voltage increases to 132 volts; this occurs daily.
Let’s make another calculation to see what amperage the
same brooder circuit would draw now.

volts 132(volts) _ 1c;4

Amperes =
ohms 8.57(ohms)

The circuit load now exceeds the nameplate rating of 15

amperes. If the circuit was fused at only 15 amperes it could
mean that you would have to replace the fuse each day when it
blows late each afternoon.
The subject of overcurrent protection has barely been
touched in this chapter, but it is hoped that you have derived
enough information to realize the important of correct over¬
current protection. If you have a given circuit fused at the
recommended rating and the fuse keeps blowing, don’t in¬
crease the fuse size—something else is wrong. Either the
circuit is overloaded, you have a partial ground fault or similar
problem. Rather than replace the blown fuses with larger
ones determine the problem and correct it. Methods given in
Chapter 5 should help you solve most such problems.

206
 Chapter 16
Lightning Protection
for the Home & Farm

Lightning is the discharge of enormous charges of static

electricity accumulated on clouds. These charges are formed
by the air currents striking the face of the clouds and causing
condensation of the moisture in them as illustrated in Fig.
16-1. When the wind strikes the cloud these small particles of
moisture are blown upward, carrying negative charges to the
top of the cloud, and leaving the bottom with positive charges.
Or very heavy rains or other forms of heavy condensa¬
tion may fall through a part of the cloud, causing one side of the
cloud to be charged positively and the other side negatively to
enormous potentials of many millions of volts.
When clouds, under the conditions just described, come
near enough to the ground or to another cloud with opposite
charges they will discharge to ground or to another cloud with
explosive violence that all of us has seen at one time or
another.
We say that lightning strikes various objects such as tall
buildings, trees, etc. because, like all moving matter, lightn¬
ing takes the path of least resistance to ground. In doing so it
makes use of such tall objects projecting upward from the
ground as part of it discharge path.
Rain soaked trees (especially those with rough bark), or
trees with the natural sap in them have a lower electrical

207
resistance than air, Metal buildings or those constructed of
other damp materials also have less resistance than air. And
the taller these objects are above the ground, the more likely
they will be struck by lightning.
When any of these objects are struck by lightning the
intense heat vaporizes their moisture into steam, and causes
other gases of combustion that produce explosive force. And
along with an electrostatic stress set up between the
molecules of the material itself, heat causes the (destructive
action of lightning that involves a very real personal hazard
and is the cause of tremendous financial loss.

LIGHTNING RODS
Since there is a strong tendency for lightning discharges
on trees, structures and other objects to travel on any metal
parts which extend in the general direction of the discharge,
the destructive action of most lightning discharges can be
quite effectively prevented by use of properly installed
I. W. D. lightning rods. In fact, an analysis of lightning fires has
proved that less than five percent of lightning strikes on
rodded structures has caused fire.
Lightning rods are made of copper or material that is a
good conductor of electricity. They should be installed on the
tops or highest points of structures or objects to be protected
such as chimneys, towers, etc. On flat roofs the rods should
be approximately 5 feet above the roof and ridges, and from 1
to 2 feet above the highest points on other type roofs and
upward projections. The rods should also be spaced about 25
feet apart. All of the rods are connected together with a heavy
copper cable of at least AWG #2 (0000 is better), with one or
more ground cables of the same size run from this connection
cable to the ground by the most direct path. In running this
ground cable it should be as straight as possible. If any turns
or bends are necessary they should be made with a long radius
or gradual bends. Never bend the wire in a 90-degree bend as
the lightning discharge could bypass or jump off the cable at
this point. See Fig. 16-2.
The grounded end of the cable should be secured to a
driven ground rod by an approved cable clamp as shown in
Fig. 16-3. The rods should be a minimum of %-inch diameter

208
 z
o
$

209
Fig. 16-1. Drawing illustrating how particles of moisture are blown upward when wind strikes a cloud, carrying negative electrical charges to the top
of the cloud.
by 10 feet long. If the soil conditions are such that the ground
resistance is high (more than 25 ohms), several ground rods
may need to be driven, all connected to each other by cable, to
obtain the proper ground. Always try to obtain a ground of
less than 3 ohms if possible.
The tips of the lightning rods should be single-pointed for
best results because it is easier for lightning to discharge to or
from a pointed object than a blunt one. With the system
properly installed when a direct bolt of lightning strikes the
system it usually flows through the cable to ground doing very
little, if any, damage to the building. This is due to the fact that
the copper cable has much less resistance than wood or air
and the lightning will follow the path of less resistance. In
doing so less heat is also caused since the higher the resis¬
tance of an electrical conductor, the more heat it produces. A
wiring diagram of a typical lightning-protection system is
illustrated in Fig. 16-4.
If you attempt to install a lightning-protection system
yourself (and there’s really no reason why you shouldn’t) the
following precautions should be taken:
■ Purchase lightning rods and their mounting brackets
only from manufacturers whose products are ap¬
proved for this purpose
■ Rods should be placed on all spires, cupolas, chim¬
neys, high dormers, gable ends, water tanks, to¬
wers, poles and similar vertical projections
H On pitched roofs install lightning rods not more than
20 feet on centers along all ridges and within 2 feet of
the ends of all ridges whether they occur on the main
roof or on dormers
H Interconnect all lightning rods with a copper cable
not less than AWG #2 and provide at least two
separate paths to ground for straight ridge-line
buildings 70 feet or less in length. Additional paths
should be provided for each additional 40 feet
H Install lightning rods at all corners on flat roofs and
not more than 20 feet on centers around the entire
perimeter. Provide additional rods spaced 20 feet on
center for each 50 feet of roof width over 50 feet

210
211
Hg. 16-2. Right and wrong ways of installing grounding cables.
 Fig, 16-3. A typical ground clamp.

Install a minimum of two conductors to ground on

roofs with a perimeter of not over 200 feet total.
Install one additional conductor to ground for each
additional 100 feet of roof perimeter. Figure 16-5
shows a typical lightning protection system for a
flat-roofed house while you may refer to 16-4 to see
a typical system on a pitched roof house or outbuild¬
ing
■ Make sure that all of the conductors run to ground
are properly grounded. If they are not the entire
system will be greatly affected, if not rendered use¬
less as a lightning protective system. If there is any
doubt about the gounding capabilities of your soil,
have it tested with a megohmmeter.
■ All metal ventilators, guttering, electrical boxes,
conduits, pipes, plumbing vents, etc. that come
within 6 feet of the lightning protection conductors
should be interconnected
A single lightning rod placed in the center of several
objects will also protect a certain cone shaped area around the

212
213
protection inside the cone indicated by dotted lines.

objects as shown in Fig. 16-6. The diameter of this cone

shaped area is about four times the height of the rod. There¬
fore a 30-foot lightning rod (above finished grade) would offer

/
/
/

Fig. 16-7. An edge of a building roof projecting outside of the cone area as
shown here will not be protected.

214
 BARE GROUND WIRE

Fig. 16-8. Method of protecting overhead electrical lines by running a bare grounding conductor over the current-carrying conductors.

215
protection against lightning for approximately 60 feet in all
direction from the base of the rod. Bear in mind, however,
that the protection is only offered inside of the imaginary
cone, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 16-6. So if an
edge of a building roof projected outside of this cone area (see
Fig. 16-7) this comer would have no protection.
Overhead electrical lines running from building to build¬
ing can be protected from lightning by running a bare ground
wire above the current-carrying wires as shown in Fig. 16-8.
If this method is used, make sure that each end of the bare
conductor is well grounded to prevent lightning charges from
entering the buildings at either end.

LIGHTNING ARRESTERS
Perhaps you don’t wish to install a complete lightning
protection system as just described. You would just like to
provide some protection against lightning, especially on those
electrical appliances that often become damaged during elec¬
trical storms, not necessarily from a direct hit but by static
electricity coming in on the wires.
Lightning arresters are made in many different forms and
could be the answer to most homeowner’s problems. It would
be well to install an expensive lightning arrester at the service
drop on your home or farm electric service entrance as shown
in Fig. 16-9; on pump, water-heater, and similar circuits as
shown in Fig. 16-10; and TV or radio antenna as shown in
Fig. 16-11. All of these circuits usually are the first to be
damaged during an electrical storm.
The lightning arrester shown in Fig. 16-12 sells for
around $15 and is designed to prevent lightning surges that
enter through the electrical wiring from damaging interior
wiring and appliances. This type of home lightning protector is
a sturdy, weatherproof, service-proven device that im¬
mediately drains lightning surges harmlessly to ground. It
may be installed at the service head or main switch box, or
where conductors attach to other outbuildings, pumps, etc.
This type of protector discharges a lightning surge in a
fraction of a second and will perform this protective function
over and over again, without any maintenance or resetting the

216
Fig. 16-9. Connecting a lightning arrester to the service entrance conductors.

Fig. 16-10. Connection of lightning arrester to fuse box of circuits feeding

pumps, water heaters and the like.

217
Fig. 16-11. TV antenna lightning arrester connected in system.

device. It is a two-pole, three-wire device designed for use on

single-phase 120/240-volt grounded neutral service.
Each protector has three leads, two black and one white.
The black wires are connected to the two hot electrical con¬
ductors, that is, the two wires that have 240 volts between
them. The white wire is connected to the grounded neutral.
Complete installation instructions are included in the carton as
well as mounting hardware.
On two-wire 240-volt circuits feeding milking machines,
coolers, pumps, and other similar electrical equipment con¬
nect one of the protector’s black wires to one of the hot wires
feeding the appliance and the other black wire on the protec¬
tor to the other hot wire feeding the appliance. Then connect
the wire to a cold-water pipe or other means of ground. The

218
connection is usually done at the last switch box feeding the
appliance in question.
Other detailed requirements for lightning protection may
be found in data supplied by the National Fire Protection
Association.
Lighting arrestors for protecting radio and TV antennas
may be purchased from electronic supply houses, such as
Radio Shack. These devices sell for less than $5 and work
wonders in protecting your electronic appliances and antenna
equipment from lightning and static discharge.
One type is shown in Fig. 16-13. This is designed for flat,
tubular and oval twin lead or open transmission lines. The
device is equipped with a sawtooth washer to grip the antenna
wire securely without needing to strip or cut the wire. A
ground wire is run from the terminal provided on the arrester

Fig. 16-12. A home lightning arrester that sells! for under $15.

219
 FROM
ANTENNA

TV

Fig. 16-13. TV lightning arrester for flat TV cable.

and connected to a ground source such as a cold-water pipe or

driven ground rod.
Other lightning arresters are available for four- and
five-wire antenna rotor leads as well as for coaxial cables. All
sell for less than $5.

220
 Chapter 17
Television Systems In The Home

How many times have you wanted to move your TV set to

another part of your home or patio and found that your present
antenna lead wouldn’t reach. Or if it did reach, it was probably
an unsightly mess to say the least. Perhaps you live in a fringe
area, miles from the closest TV station, and find that your TV
reception is terrible.
This chapter is designed to show you how to correct all of
these TV-reception problems and even more. You will also
read how to install TV outlets in all areas of the home where
you think that your TV may possibly be viewed. This includes
the living room, den, family room, bedrooms, patio, and any
other area that comes to mind.
For those of you who have cable TV service to your
home, locating and installing the TV outlets should be your
only interest in this chapter. However, there are thousands of
rural residents living on farms or in small towns, who still must
depend on antennas for their reception. Those are the ones
that will gain the most from the instructions on improving TV
reception in fringe areas.
Before actually getting into the installation of TV outlets
and power-boosting components let’s take a look at a typical
TV antenna system in order to fully acquaint you with its
operation and purpose.

221
 Figure 17-1 shows a sophisticated TV antenna system
designed for a far-fringe area up to 200 miles away from the
closest TV station. Most systems, however, have fewer
parts and components.
ANTENNA HEAD
There are several antenna heads for VHF, UHF, and FM
reception to choose from to take care of your reception
situation, ranging from local through far-fringe areas. Most
range in size from nine elements, good for a range of about 30
miles, to sixty-seven or higher elements for distances to over
225 miles. The terrain, of course, has much to do with the
reception. For example, if the terrain is flat the reception
range is greater than if the terrain is hilly or mountainous.
Most modem antenna heads are preassembled ‘with
fold-out elements to ease installation, and all come with com¬
plete instructions for assembling and connections.

PREAMPLIFIER
Preamplifiers are designed primarily for use in fringe
areas to boost the signal. Most come in two units. One part
mounts on the antenna mast, and the other is placed near the
TV set.
In general, the mast-mounted preamplifier overcomes
downlead losses and rejects interference while matching your
roof antenna to your TV or FM set under all atmospheric and
weather conditions. An indoor-mounted AC power supply
which plugs into a conventional 120-volt wall outlet sends
current to the mast-mounted preamplifier. The combination
of the two units amplifies all signals for channels 2 to 83 plus
FM reception. If more than one TV set is to be used on the
system, power-boosters are manufactured for use with four
or more sets.
ROTOR
An antenna rotor system consists of a motor-operated
rotor mounted on the mast, a control unit inside the home, and
a four-conductor power control cable connecting the two. The
inside unit connects to a 120-volt power source for proper
operation.

222
Fig. 17*1. Basic components of a TV antenna system.

Once the rotor system has been mounted and properly

connected, set the inside control unit to the direction you
want your antenna to point. The rotor on the mast turns the
antenna to that direction and turns off automatically when the
direction is reached.
Another semiautomatic type of control works very simi¬
lar except that a control bar is depressed for the rotor to turn
the antenna, but must be held down until the best picture is
seen, then the bar is released.

223
MASTS
Mast kits for TV antennas come in a variety of types from
chimney mounts, through roof mounts, ground mounts sec¬
ured by brackets connected to the house, to self-guying
towers. Figure 17-2 shows a well-constructed tower which is
mounted in a concrete base.
The height of the antenna mast is very important in order
to obtain the best possible reception. If your local TV shop
can’t tell you the best height for your area have a test made to
determine this.

LEAD-IN CABLE
Basically, there are four types of lead-in cable; namely,
■ Twin-lead 300-ohm ribbon-type cable
■ Twin-lead 300-ohm foam-insulated cable
■ Twin-lead 300-ohm shielded cable
■ Shielded 75-ohm coaxial cable
The ribbon-type 300-ohm lead-in cable usually is considered
to produce the strongest signal under adverse environmental
conditions in low-interference suburban areas. However,
problems occur when the cable passes near metallic objects
and where high interference conditions exist as in metropoli¬
tan areas. This type is unsuitable for UHF and is considered
outdated by many antenna installers.
Twin-lead foam-insulated cable is also a flat-type cable,
but is totally encased in and surrounded by polyethylene foam,
backed up with an outer polyethylene jacket. This type of
cable offers a high resistance to ultra-violet rays, oil, fumes,
moisture, salt air and abrasion. It has excellent UHF charac¬
teristics and is the type most often installed by professionals.
Another type of 300-ohm cable is the shielded type.
Designed for eighty two channel color TV reception this type
of cable combines the strong signal strength of twin-lead cable
with the clean signal of shielded coaxial cable. The shield helps
eliminate ignition and other interference caused by line pick¬
up. A shortcoming of this type is that it is bulky and hard to
handle.
The 75-ohm cable, while more costly than most other
types, provides greater efficiency by minimizing interference

224
Fig. 17-2. Metal tower designed for mount ing in concrete base with antenna
head on top.

225
and Is highly weather-resistant as well as being easier to
install. This type of cable can be installed anywhere, even
over metal objects. However, since antenna output and TV
set input are 300-ohms, a step-down (300- to 75-ohm) and
step-up (75- to 300-ohm) transformer must be used for the
signal transfer, hence there is a large signal loss due to the
many devices required. If more than one set is to be viewed a
system amplifier is recommended.

COUPLERS
When two or more TV sets are to be fed from a single
antenna system, an all-channel multiset coupler must be used
to divide the signals evenly between the number of sets and to
eliminate interset interference. The most common types for
use around the home are designed for two or four sets.

ANTENNA SIGNAL SPLITTER

A signal splitter separates all-channel signal into indi¬
vidual VHF/UHF/FM signals for TV set input. The compact
device mounts on the back of the TV set. The all-channel
lead-in wire should be connected to the correct terminals on
the unit. This is clearly marked on the bottom of the unit.
Then a separate lead-in wire for each individual signal
(VHF/UHF/FM) connects to three other sets of terminals on
the back. Two types are common: VHF/UHF splitters and
VHF/UHF/FM splitters.
This describes the basic system. Now let’s start back at
the top to see how to analyze each part of the system so that
you can start having better reception on your own system.
Again, refer to the illustration in Fig. 17-1 to determine what
parts your TV system has, or what you may need to add or
replace in order to achieve better TV reception.
Beginning at your existing antenna head check for bent
or missing elements (signal-collecting rods). If there are ones
missing or bent, your antenna cannot deliver the maximum
TV signal it’s designed to provide. Also check for corrosion as
this can seriously affect TV reception. A corroded antenna
causes your TV to receive much less signal than from a clean
antenna.

226
 Does your present antenna head have enough elements
for your location? Is your antenna head mounted high enough?
As mentioned previously, check with your local TV repairman
for correct antenna heights in your area or have your exact
location checked. This test is usually done with a field-
strength meter. It can also be done with a portable battery-
operated TV. As far as the correct number of elements are
concerned, they will vary from manufacturer to manufac¬
turer, but the following will give you some idea of how many
elements you should have on your antenna for the distance
(flat terrain) you live from the closest VHF TV station.

ELEMENTS MILES

8-12 30-40
18 50
29 70
44 90
49 110
59 125
67 150 - 225
If your antenna head does not have the correct number of
elements or it has elements bent or missing purchase a new
one of the correct size. If your current antenna has enough
elements but they appear corroded, clean them with emery
cloth—gently. Remember that hilly terrain will shorten the
range of your antenna. So if you live in a mountainous region,
say 70 miles as the crow flies from the TV station, you’ll
probably need the most elements you can find for the best
reception, such as the 67-element model.
Bear in mind that by purchasing a larger-than-necessary
antenna may enable you to bring in more TV stations. For
example, one homeowner lived within 40 miles of one TV
station and his 18-element antenna gave him very good recep¬
tion. When the antenna was rotated towards Washington,
D. C., he was able to even pick up one channel from there, and
this city was 70 miles away. However, when a new 67-
element antenna was purchased, a booster added, and a rotor
added to his system, he was able to pick up channels 2 through
13, which included Washington, D. C. Baltimore, Maryland,
Harrisonburg, Virginia, and Richmond, Virginia, not to men¬
tion a few UHF channels also. Obviously, for a couple of

227
hundred dollars, he was able to add much family pleasure to
his home in the way of viewing TV.
Once you have assured yourself that your antenna head
is the correct size and in good condition, check the antenna
lead-in wire. If it is brittle or damaged replace it. If 300-ohm
ribbon-type cable passes close to any metal objects use stan¬
doffs to keep the cable a proper distance or else replace the
antenna cable with shield coaxial cable.
In TV reception areas where broadcasts originate from
different locations an antenna rotor may help you to receive a
more concentrated signal. This same rotor will also provide
for optimum reception in fringe areas when supplemented
with an antenna amplifier to increase the signal strength.
Just remember, your TV picture, regardless of the qual¬
ity of set you may have, can be only as good as the antenna
system that delivers signals to it.

TV OUTLETS
How many times have you wished that you could move
your portable TV set from your family room to the outside
patio to watch the afternoon ball game? Or maybe you’d care
to move it up to your bedroom for the late movie. Perhaps the
next afternoon, your wife would like to watch her favorite
soap opera while she’s fixing the evening meal in the kitchen.
Of course, you can install a long cable to drag from room to
room, or you can do the practical thing and merely install TV
outlets in these locations. Then all you have to do is unplug
your antenna from the outlet, move the set to any other
location in the home where there’s another TV outlet, plug in
the antenna leads along with the 120-volt power cord and
you’re in business.
The first step would be to determine exactly where you
want the various outlets located. The second step is the
easiest way to run the cable from your antenna, looping from
outlet to outlet. This sounds simple, but in existing struc¬
tures, routing the cable can be a difficult job if you don’t want
to a lot of cutting and patching of your home.
For single-floor houses with an accessible crawl space or
basement under the first floor all of the cable can be fed from
underneath without too much cutting, drilling and patching.

228
229
Fig. 17-3. Diagram of typical TV outlets with related wiring.
For example, locate the outlets in the various room, cut an
opening for a conventional plastic outlet box (as described
earlier in this book for installing receptacles and switches),
locate the point directly under the outlet box opening in the
wood partition. Then drill a %-inch hole through the wood
floor making certain that the drilling stays well within the
boundaries of the wall partition in which the. outlet box opening
was cut. Repeat this procedure at each of the outlet locations
before pulling cable from your antenna head to each of the
outlet locations.
When 75-ohm coaxial cable is looped from outlet to
outlet, pulled inside of each of the outlet boxes with about 12
inches hanging out of the box, install conventional 75-ohm to
300-ohm TV outlet receptacles and covers. A typical diagram
is shown in Fig. 17-3.
Of course, you will need a 120-volt outlet at each of your
TV outlets so try to locate the TV outlets near an existing
receptacle. If this isn’t possible, you’ll have to install duplex
receptacles where necessary as described in Chapter 6. Any
TV outlet or 120-volt power outlet installed outside must be
enclosed in a weatherproof outlet box.
For new construction where the partitions allow access
for wiring, an outlet box mounted on a wooded stud at the
desired locations may be used. Then a piece of conduit run
from the outlet box to a readily accessible location after the
walls are finished. A basement, crawl space, or attic are fine.
See Fig. 17-4 for details.
Other accessories for your TV antenna system may
include a lightning arrestor (see Chapter 16), a filter to elimi¬
nate any antenna-fed interference causing picture distortion,
etc. Complete details on these accessories may be had at your
local electronic shop or found in some of the large electronics
mail-order catalogs.

MASTER ANTENNA TV SYSTEM

A small master antenna TV (MATV) system is shown in
Fig. 17-5. It can supply eight outlets with an equal amount of
TV signal even if some of the outlets are not in use. Antenna
systems and TV signals differ from electricity in that even if
the outlet is not in use the service drop itself draws signal from

230
Fig. 17-4. TV outlet box detail for installation in new construction

the system. This is designed into the system so that when

TVs are switched on and off they don’t affect the other
receivers on the same antenna.
Normally TV couplers are available in either two-set and
four-set varieties. Each time one of these devices are in¬
serted in the antenna system the signal is reduced, the four-
set type causing the greatest drop in signal.
The first step to do when installing a system is to put up
the antenna head. A survey around the neighborhood will give
you a clue as to what size of antenna head to purchase. Don’t
be afraid to ask around first because you can learn by other
peoples mistakes and good fortune. If you have a modern
color receiver with UHF and there are some UHF stations
nearby then purchase a VHF/UHF antenna. But if there are
no such stations within 11 miles forget it and save yourself the
dollars.
Don’t buy an amplifier until you are sure that it will help.
That is, if you have installed a system without the optional
amplifier and the signal is snowy you may or may not need an

231
amplifier. To determine if an amplifier will help connect a
receiver to the antenna lead-in before it reaches the two-set
coupler. If the reception is good there then an amplifier will
help. But if it is snowy there too then an amplifier will only
amplify the snow even more. In this case you might try an
antenna-mounted preamplifier, a larger antenna head or a
higher mast or tower.

232
 Chapter 18
Music All Through the House

Before you begin throwing hundreds of dollars into a built-in

stereo music/intercom system for the home, whether for
new construction or not, it is important that you carefully and
thoroughly plan the system. For new construction the loca¬
tion of the speakers must be chosen as well as their mounting
height. You must also make certain that a cabinet or piece of
furniture will not later be in the way of any speaker or con¬
trols. When installing a music system in existing homes, you
will also have to consider the routing of the wires in order to
cut down on unnecessary cutting and patching.

CAREFUL PLANNING
The first consideration should be the various compo¬
nents available for the system; then determine the relative
importance of them to you. You will have a choice of at least
ten different components, including AM and FM radio, TV
audio, record changer, three tape decks, intercom (including
talk-listen door speakers), door chimes and security/fire
alarm system.
Since most of the systems will be built into the structure,
we cannot emphasize too strongly the importance of very
careful planning. We have said this before, and we will say it
several more times during the installation details given in this
chapter.

233
234
Fig. 18-1. Pictorial diagram of a stereo music system.
 A pictorial wiring diagram of a stereo music system is
shown in Fig. 18-1. The master unit in this diagram is de¬
signed to be built into a wall and contains AM/FM radio, FM
stereo, record changer, and a tape deck to record anything
coming through the system. Or use extra microphones to
record parties and treasured family get-togethers. Most of
these units are sized to fit between standard partition studs
(14% inches) and are therefore easily installed in either exist¬
ing or new partitions provided rough lumber was not used for
the studs. In this case, you may have to chisel a half-inch or so
from either side of the studs in order to make the unit fit.
Figure 18-2 shows the dimensions of a typical rough-in frame
for a master unit.

INSTALLATION
If the master unit is mounted in a vertical position as
shown in Fig. 18-2 mount the rough-in frame approximately
25 inches from the finished floor to the bottom of the frame.
For a horizontal arrangement (Fig. 18-3) mount the unit about
4% feet from the floor to the bottom of the unit.
During this rough-in stage, you will also have to provide a
120-volt AC power supply, an antenna lead-in cable for the

235
236
STEREO EQUIPMENT
AMPLIFIER 1 PAIR

Fig. 18-3. Drawing of a stereo system with components mounted in a horizontal position.
FM system (see Chapter 17) and speaker and control wiring.
In the music-only system, two pairs of AWG #18 wires
usually will suffice, but for a stereo/intercom system like the
one shown in Fig. 18-4, you will need seven pairs of AWG #18
wires running to the intercom master station.
Speakers may be either ceiling or wall mounted, but all
speakers used outdoors—on walls or soffit—must be
weather resistant. Use two for stereo and one for monaural.
Stereo speakers should be installed within the same wall
approximately two-thirds the wall length apart, but never
closer than 4Vfe feet apart or farther than 15 feet apart. Each
set of speakers should be controlled by a remote volume
control located in or near the area where the speakers are
located.
Although the exact wiring of the system will vary with
each manufacturer, the following will illustrate a typical appli¬
cation (Fig. 18-4).
Interconnect the master unit to the intercom master unit
with 7-twisted-pair cable before running individual
4-twisted-pair cables from the intercom master to remote

Fig. 18-4. Pictorial diagram of a stereo system with intercom, electronic chimes,
security system, and others.

237
control locations. Make the connections as indicated in the
instructions provided with each system.
Besides providing the luxury of AM/FM radio anywhere
in the home this system includes a family message center, a
cassette tape player/recorder, a digital clock, an 8-track tape
player, and a record changer...to name a few.
The easy-to-operate cassette tape player/recorder can
record from the system’s radio, the auxiliary record changer
or the 8-track tape player. As the family’s message center it
offers special controls for recording and playing back mes¬
sages to and from family members through the master
speaker. A signal in the form of a light tells at a glance when a
message is waiting for a playback.
The digital clock provides the time at a glance in illumi¬
nated, easy-to-read numerals while a security/fire alarm sys¬
tem connected to the master unit provides extra peace-of-
mind as they can detect lethal smoke, heat from fire and even
attempted forced entry.
Electronic door chimes relay chime tones through the
intercom system and if you can’t answer the door right that
minute, you can acknowledge your guest by means of the
built-in door speaker. Since the door speaker is controlled by
remote control it allows your callers to answer hands free.
Various speakers are available for mounting in either wall,
ceiling, or soffit.
Begin the installation of this type of system by selecting
the preferred locations for the master station, each remote
station, door speaker, remote control units, and the alarm
devices as described in Chapter 20. For maximum operating
convenience, install the master and inside stations 4x/2 feet
from the finished floor to the bottom of the unit. Make certain
that the master unit is located at least 4 inches from adjacent
walls, cabinet or countertops.
Whenever possible try to locate the inside units on in¬
terior walls that are free of insulation and other obstructions.
In order to prevent feedback or interference, never mount
speakers or any other of the controls or devices back to back
or in a common wall between rooms. Door speakers, of
course, will have to be located on an exterior wall adjacent to
the entrance door or else located in a nearby porch ceiling or

238
239
Fig. 18-5. Pictorial diagram of a modest music system showing the various components and their connections.
soffit overhang. Again, all exterior components must be of a
weather-resistant construction.
An FM antenna should be provided for the radio if you
cannot use your existing TV antenna. Chapter 17 gives all the
details about connecting an FM set to a VHF/FM antenna
head.
Notice in the wiring diagram in Fig. 18-4 that individual
flat parallel ribbon-type four-wire cable is run from the master
unit to each inside speaker or remote control location. The
power transformer should be located near the panelboard
supplying the home with 120/240-volt electricity. However, if
it is not feasible to locate the transformer near the electric
panel make certain that the location you select is readily
accessible. Then connect the primary side of the transformer
to a 120-volt circuit. Two-conductor, AWG #18 wire- con¬
nects to the load side of the transformer (secondary side) and
extends from the transformer to the master unit. The entire
system should be properly grounded to an earth ground.
If you don’t want to go into your stereo music system
quite as elaborate as previously described, there are, of
course, simpler outfits available. For as little as $250 you can
purchase and install a built-in stereo system and still have a
versatile unit like the diagram of the one in Fig. 18-5.
A system of this sort contains an AM/FM/MPX radio
with an 8-track stereo tape player. This is the basic receiver
unit and requires conventional 120-volt house current as its
power source. However, before connecting the power source
and turning the set on, make certain that the speakers are
properly connected, otherwise damage may occur to the
amplifier.
Most of these self-contained stereo music systems have
a built-in antenna already connected to the set at the factory.
However, if the built-in antenna does not give satisfactory
results, try an alternate antenna arrangement like one of the
following:
1. Fully extend the 120-volt line cord to insure that the
built-in antenna is providing its peak performance.
2. Disconnect the built-in antenna and connect a
T-shaped (dipole) antennas to the 300-ohm termi¬
nals on the back of the set.

240
 3. Disconnect the built-in antenna and connect an in¬
door TV/FM antenna to the 300-ohm terminals.
4. Disconnect the built-in antenna and connect an out¬
door TV/FM antenna. If the leads are 300 ohms or
75-ohm coaxial cable with a 75- to 300-ohm trans¬
former on the end, connect to the 300-ohm termi¬
nals, or if you prefer to use only the 75-ohm cable
with split connectors, connect to the 75-ohm termi¬
nals as shown in Fig. 18-6.
Referring again to the diagram in Fig. 18-5 notice that other
components and devices may be connected to the basic unit.
A record changer and a tape deck (both requires a 120-volt
power source) are two. Then you can plug in an electric guitar
or a microphone through a front-panel jack. Or if you don’t
want to disturb others while playing or listening, a set of
stereo headphones may be plugged into the set so only you
can hear what’s going on.
When you are investigating the various models on the
market the following terms may help you to better understand
what you are btfying.
master station—The basic unit of every intercom system.
Normally houses the radio, amplifier, intercom circuitry
and its own speaker.
remote station—A speaker located away from, and con¬
nected to, the master station.

Fig. 18-6. Detail of antenna connection on a typical stereo tuner.

241
door speaker—A remote station used at outside entrances
for talking to the master station or remote stations. Most
are designed specifically for intercom use rather than for
radio or music reception.
centralized system—The master station includes switches
to control the function or operation of the remote speakers;
that is, to turn the stations on or off and to monitor.
decentralized system—The master station includes
switches selected by controls on each remote station or
remote control panel. Therefore, no switches are provided
on the master unit.
FET—Field-effect transistor. Its main advantage over the
standard type is higher gain—better reception results
when used in AM/FM/MPX receivers.
master all-call/all-listen—Lets you page through all
speakers at once from the master. Music is automatically
silenced. Person called can answer without operating
speaker controls.
station all-call/all-listen—Intercom calls from any re¬
mote speaker as well as from the master can be answered
hands free without having to operate any controls.
door answering—An outside visitor operates a talk/listen
switch on the door speaker to talk and reply to remote
stations.
hands-free door answering—Permits visitors to talk from
the door speaker without having to operate any controls. In
systems having this feature door speakers do not have
talk/listen switches.
electronic door chime—Includes electronic circuitry to
relay chime sounds through all speakers. Can be heard
above music or intercom.
intercom override—Intercom messages will be heard
above music.
monitor—Stations can be set to listen-in and relay sounds
from its locations to the master or other stations. Sounds
will be heard over music.
music muting—Music is automatically silenced during in¬
tercom calls.
privacy—Volume control adjusts to turn remote station
completely off.

242
room-to-room intercom—Lets you talk to and receive
calls from remote and master stations. Remote stations
however cannot be selected individually from other remote
stations.
standby intercom—Provides intercom without music at
remote stations.

243
Chapter 19
Notice Your Guest
One of the simplest and most common electric signal system
is the residential door-chime system. Such a system consists
of a low-voltage source, a pushbutton, bell wire and a set of
chimes. The quality of the chimes will range from a one-note
device to those which play lengthy melodies.
The modern door chime has a plunger which strikes
against a bar or hollow tube to produce a pleasing musical
note. Figure 19-1 shows a typical wiring diagram of a two-note
chime controlled at two locations. One button at the main
entrance will sound the two notes when pushed, while the
other button at the rear door will sound only one note when
pushed. The components of this circuit consists of:
■ pushbuttons—The typical residential pushbutton
will have two contacts (Fig. 19-2) and acts very
much like the common single-pole wall switch used
to controlled lighting.
■ transformer—Chime transformers are made for
connection to 120-volt lines in order to reduce the
voltage to 10 to 16 volts for the operation of low-
voltage chimes. A 120/10-volt 5-watt transformer
will be quite sufficient for all single-note chimes. A
120/16-volt 10-watt transformer is recommended
for two-note chimes, while a 120/16-volt 15-watt

244
 120 V
PRi

WHITE
ULU TRANSFORMER

, REAR
PUSHBUTTON

Fig. 19-1. Typical wiring diagram of a two-note chime controlled from two
locations.

transformer is recommended for multiple chime in¬

stallations. If the correct chime transformer is
selected for the application, it should last a life time.
Figure 19-3 shows a typical chime transformer.
■ wire—Bell wire cable, consisting of two or three
wires, is normally used for all low-voltage wiring
including wiring for residential chimes. Its small size
makes it easy to install either concealed in the walls
or run exposed like on the top of a baseboard.

245
LOCATION OF CHIMES
In new construction, the chimes should be located where
they can be heard in all areas of the home. In existing con¬
struction, however, it may be impractical to run the wires to a
location which is ideal. In this case try to locate the chimes
where they can be heard in most areas of the home.
Larger homes may require two or three chimes con¬
nected in parallel. They will respond to the same pushbutton
at the same time. Or you can use an electronic chime that
sounds through your radio-intercom system as described in
Chapter 18.

TYPES OF CHIMES
Unlike the unattractive door bell of yesteryear, modem
chimes are available to fit nearly every purpose and decor.
For example, besides the wide variety of different styles to fit
any decor clock chimes are also available. Now there is no
need to conceal the chime in a dark hallway or behind a door. It
may be used as a decorative focal point or as part of a wall
treatment in the kitchen, family room, living room or upstairs
hallway. Even nonelectric models are available for fastening
directly to your door in case the running of wires (such as in an
existing structure) is impractical.
There are also an array of pushbuttons, lighted and
unlighted, to grace the doorway of any home regardless of its
architectural style.

INSTALLATION OF A TWO-NOTE CHIME

Once you have decided upon the style and type of chimes
you want in your home and have determined the best location
the selection of the type and quantity of incidental materials is
the next step. Besides the chimes, you will need a low-voltage
transformer to reduce the 120-volt house current to 10 or 16
volts. In the case of a two-note chime a 16-volt 10-watt model
is recommended. Two pushbuttons, rated at 16 volts of a
style agreeable with your decor and taste will be needed as
well as enough two-wire AWG #18 bell cable to reach from
each pushbutton location to the chime itself. A piece of
three-wire AWG #18 bell cable long enough to reach from the

246
transformer to the chime and some wire staples should com¬
plete the material list.

Mounting the Transformer

Locate an accessible lighting outlet box near to where
the chimes are to be mounted. In new construction or where
the building structure is open any outlet box near the chime
location will suffice. However, in existing homes where the
structure is concealed the outlet box must be easy to get to as
well as be in a location conducive to running the bell wires with
the least amount of cutting and patching.
If the house is a one-level home usually the transformer
can be mounted on a nearby outlet box by getting to the box
from the attic. If a two-story house is the case and the chimes
are to be mounted on the first floor an outlet in the basement
or crawl space would be the best choice.
Pull the fuse or trip the circuit breaker providing over¬
current protection to the circuit feeding the outlet box. Next,
remove the lighting fixture, wiring device, or blank plate
attached to the outlet. Then locate a vacant knockout plug on
the side or top of the outlet box and remove this as described
previously. You are now ready to connect the transformer.
There are two basic types of low-voltage transformers:
one is made to mount directly onto the outlet box (see Fig.
19-4) and the other is mounted remote from the box (Fig.
19-3). In most cases tfie type mounted inside the box makes a
better and safer job, so try to purchase this type if at all
possible.

247
 If the direct-mounting type is used insert the two lead
built into the transformer through the half-inch knockout
opening on the outlet box. Also place the round attaching
speed nut through the knockout so that the securing screw on
the transformer may be tightened to secure the transformer
in place. Some care is required here because the nut usually
has a shoulder that must be aligned before the nut can be
tightened.
When using the remote-type transformer secure the
base at the nearest wood structure to the outlet box. This
could either be a joist, stud, bridging, etc. Then use an NM
connector in the half-inch knockout, feed the two leads from
the transformer through the connector and tighten, but not
tight enough to damage the insulation on the wires.

Connecting the Transformer

Leave the current off in the dead outlet box in which the
transformer leads are located. Secure one of the transformer
leads to a white neutral wire with a wire nut. Make certain you
have neutral wire and not a switch leg controlling the lighting
fixture attached to the box. Next secure the other trans¬
former lead to a hot (black or red) wire. Again, make sure that
this is not a switch leg because if it is, the chime will only work
when the light fixture is turned on. Secure the splice with a
wire nut and replace the lighting fixture or other device that
was attached to the outlet box originally.
You may now activate the circuit as the only exposed
parts of the transformer will be the secondary terminals which
will have only 10 to 16 volts; this will cause no harm or shock.

Pulling the Wire

In general, the two-wire cable from the pushbutton loca¬
tions to the chimes should be run in as direct a route as
possible, and in a manner so that the wire will be protected
from nails (driven later) and other possible dangers. When
securing this wire with staples make certain that you don’t
drive the staples in far enough to cut or otherwise damage the
insulation on the bell wire cable.

248
Fig. 19-4. Low-voltage transformer
designed for mounting directly to
outlet box.

When installing the cable in existing homes methods of

fishing the wire may be employed as described earlier in this
book.
As mentioned previously, you will need a two-wire cable
run from each door or pushbutton location to the location of
the chimes, and a three-wire cable from the chime location to
the transformer. Make certain that you leave enough at each
termination point to make the splices and connections.

Installing the Pushbuttons

There are many types of pushbuttons. Some are sur¬
faced mounted, others may be recessed or semirecessed.
The exact installation procedures will differ with each type.
However, instructions are usually included with each type to
insure proper installation of them.
One type is installed by first drilling a half-inch hole in the
outside door trim at approximately 4 feet above the finished
floor. The hole should be about IY2 inches deep. Then, with a
quarter-inch bit, drill another hole on through the timber to
the void space within. The bell cable can be fished up (or
down) in this void space, then pulled out through the quarter-
hole into the half-inch hole. Strip the ends of the cable and
connect the end of each wire onto the terminal on the pushbut¬
ton. With your thumb press the round pushbutton assembly
(made exactly to fit the half-inch hole) into the hole until the
trim is flush against the door trim. Figure 19-5 shows a cross
section of this installation.

249
Fig. 19-5. Cross section of a flush-mounted door pushbutton.

Making Final Connections

Figure 19-1 shows how the connections are made. Both
two-wire cables from each pushbutton are run to the low-
voltage transformer. The white wires in these two cables are
then spliced together and connected to one of the terminals on
the secondary side of the transformer.
The black wire from the front door pushbutton is con¬
nected to the black wire of the three-wire cable running from
the chimes. The black wire, of the rear door pushbutton is
connected to the red wire of the three-wire cable, while the
remaining white wire is connected to the other terminal on the
transformer.
Markings on two-note chimes may vary, but all of them
will have three terminals; probably marked F for the front
door or two-notes, R for the area door or one-note, and C for
the common terminal. Therefore, the black will connect to the

250
F terminal, the red wire to thei? terminal and the white wire
(from the transformer) to the C terminal.
When all of the connections are made check for correct¬
ness. If you have the buttons reversed merely reverse the
red and black leads at the chime terminals.

251
Chapter 20
Security Systems

Burglary and fire pose a direct threat to everything of value to

you. While nothing can prevent them from happening a prop¬
erly installed security system can provide early warning of
these threats before it’s too late, assuring you extra peace of
mind and a more comfortable feeling about your home and
around your farm.
Of the more than 12,000 lives claimed by fire each year,
more than half of these deaths were caused by smoke inhala¬
tion, before flames ever reached the victims. While not as
much a threat to life as fire, burglaries have caused property
loss that run into the millions each year.
You cannot be too careful. In this chapter, you’ll find how
to install a fire alarm system capable of sniffing out smoke and
sounding an alarm as the first wisps appear, giving you and
your family precious time to escape from any danger. If an
intruder attempts a forced entry in your home or farm build¬
ings a security system described in this chapter, when prop¬
erly installed, will set off a piercing sound to scare off the
intruder and to warn you of his presence so you can call the
police.
The devices available for home security systems range
from a simple plug-in smoke detector to sophisticated elec¬
tronic components that provide intruder detection circuits and

252
alarm, fire alarms, AM/FM radio, room-to-room intercom,
door chimes, and others in one system. A brief description of
such a system was described in Chapter 18. But let’s take the
simpler devices first.

SMOKE DETECTION ALARMS

This type of device is an easy way for the homeowner to
provide his home with a smoke detection alarm system that
could provide precious life-saving seconds in case of a fire.
Several of these devices have been available to consumers
over the past few years. The early type was powered by the
120-volt line coming into the home. The fire alarm sounded at
the first signs of smoke, but if the electrical system was
damaged, as is the case with many home electrical fires, the
smoke detector was of no use since there was no power for it.
Later models are powered by batteries, usually the 9-volt
type used in many low-cost portable radios. Since they do not
depend on household current they are much more reliable.
However, it is necessary to check the battery condition from
week to week if the system is to be of value when it counts.
If this is the type of unit you want to install in your home
begin by determining the number of units you’ll need. In
general, one unit should be located in the hallway or other
access to bedrooms. If your home has bedrooms upstairs one
should be located at the top of the stairway. When the bed¬
rooms are scattered throughout the home more units will be
needed (see Fig. 20-1).
Once the number of units needed are purchased they
may be surface mounted on either the ceiling or on a wall (as
high as possible) by means of a bracket and screws furnished
with each. This bracket is designed to attach directly to the
ceiling or wall surfaces without any other provisions being
necessary. When wall-mounted, the top of the unit should be
not less than 6 inches and not more than 12 inches from the
ceiling/wall junction. Ceiling-mounted units should be located
in the center of the selected area.
Although the operating principles will vary from man¬
ufacturer to manufacturer, most contain a special type of
electronic sensor that activates a horn alarm.

253
1ST FLOOR
 2ND FLOOR

Fig. 20-1. Floor plan of a two-story dwelling. Circled crosses indicate battery-
powered fire/smoke alarm locations.

255
SURFACE-MOUNTED FIRE/SECURITY SYSTEMS
This type of system is well adapted to existing structures
where a built-in system may not be feasible. Even the wiring
can be installed in surface molding if it is not possible to
conceal it in ceiling and partitions. Figure 20-2 shows a wiring
diagram of a typical security fire alarm system of the type just
mentioned. This system is designed to accommodate the
following alarm combinations:
■ An outside alarm and flashing beacon that combines
both audible and visual signals. When mounted at
the high point of the roof, gable or an outside wall the
entire neighborhood will be alerted should the alarm
sound. Many people mount this device to their TV
antenna mast for even better visibility. Usually a
high-intensity inside horn (same as the outside horn
without flashing beacon) is also surface-mounted in
some out-of-the-way location inside of the home.
■ Two of these inside horns may be mounted or con¬
nected to the system.
■ One outside alarm and flashing beacon and two
nonhigh-intensity horns may be connected to¬
gether.
■ One outside alarm, one inside alarm horn, and one
inside alarm horn with electronic circuitry to relay
alarm signal through any radio-intercom system as
described in Chapter 18.
■ One outside alarm and two inside alarm horns with
electronic circuitry
Any combination of the above components may be connected
to the system in Fig. 20-2 up to a total of four. The power unit
must be wired into a 120-volt AC circuit or to any nearby
convenience outlet with a plug-in cord set with safety lock.
The power unit’s features include a pilot light that tells when
the system is working, circuits are monitored by solid-state
circuitry at the end of the detector line, a reset button re¬
stores the system to normal operation after the alarm is
tripped and a test button is provided to test the system
manually. Types designed for residential use are very small, 9
inches high by 4 inches wide by 3 inches deep.

256
Fig. 20-2. Wiring diagram of a surface-mounted security system.

257
 Fire/heat and smoke detectors may be connected to the
system as shown in the diagram. The smoke detector au¬
tomatically activates the alarm when smoke accumulates. The
fire/heat detector automatically activates the alarm whenever
temperatures rise above 135 degrees Fahrenheit. Any
number of these devices may be connected to the system.
One is recommended for every 20 by 20-foot of floor space;
that is, the device will sense heat for 10 feet in all directions.
Many homeowners mount them in all living areas, bedrooms,
closets, etc.
A fire/heat detector mounted in areas like attics, furnace
rooms and similar areas where the temperature is higher than
normal, must be calibrated to sound an alarm at a temperature
higher than in the living areas of the home. One model on the
market is calibrated to sound the alarm when the ambient
temperature rises above 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
Any number of plunger-type entry detector switches
that recess in a %-inch hole about 114-inches deep may also be
used. They are connected to the open circuit detection line
and are usually inserted in wood window or door frames. If the
recessed type is not practical a surface-mounted magnetic-
type entry detector may be used instead.
But how does the homeowner get in his own home
without setting off the alarm? Easily. An outside key-operated
entry alarm switch is mounted near the entry door as shown in
Fig. 20-3. This switch when combined with a special door cord
allows you to turn the alarm circuit on or off to permit entry
without sounding the alarm.
There are also inside alarm shunt switches that surface
mount beside windows, entrance doors, etc. to permit the
opening of windows and doors without sounding the alarm.
Where it is not practical to install fixed mounted entry
detectors you may use any number of floor-mat entry detec¬
tors with the system. They are usually furnished with at least
6 feet of lead wire and may be concealed under rugs at doors,
windows, stairways, etc.
You may want to install an alarm pushbutton on the wall
near to your bed to manually activate the alarm. Any number
of these may also be used on the system.

258
Fig. 20-3. Mounting locations of key-operated entry alarm shunt switches.

The exact wiring connections, methods of mounting,

etc. will vary with each manufacturer of the equipment, but, in
general, the following suggestions should be helpful regard¬
less of what type system you may want to install.
The control unit may be mounted at any convenient
out-of-the-way location where it will be easily accessible to
responsible members of the household, but not to children or
visitors.
Outside alarm devices should be mounted at some high
point, such as near the top of a roof gable so that it can be seen
by as many people in the neighborhood as possible. Bell
alarms may be mounted on any outside wall, but they should
be positioned so they are as inconspicuous as possible. The
inside alarms should be mounted where they can easily be
heard from the bedrooms with the doors closed.
Fire/heat detectors have an effective protection area of
up to 20 feet by 20 feet when mounted on a smooth surface
ceiling. If any one room as area exceeds these dimensions use
more than one detector in the area. They should be located in
halls, closets, bathrooms, basements, and other living areas.
They should be calibrated to sound the alarm if the ambient
temperature exceeds 135 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas
where the ambient temperatures are normally higher than the
living area (attic, furnace room, etc.) calibrate the detectors

259
to sound the alarm if the ambient temperature exceeds 200
degrees Fahrenheit.
Smoke detectors are normally located in halls, stair¬
ways, and other approaches to bedrooms. However, install as
many additional detectors as you feel is necessary to provide
full warning coverage.
Most security systems are wired with AWG #18 limited
energy cable or AWG #18 single conductor wire for low-
voltage wiring of all components on the system. The actual
installation of the wire or cable is very similar to the methods
described in this book on low-voltage switching and wiring of
door chimes. Always refer to the installation instructions with
the type of system you purchase for exact connection details.
Figure 20-4 gives recommended points of installation for
entry-detection devices for doors and windows. Note the
location of the mat detectors concealed under a rug at the
window and door. The remaining devices are either recessed
or surface-mounted plunger-type or magnetic-type entry de¬
tectors for open circuit detection lines. Shunt switches, as
described previously, are also shown in the diagram.
With a system installed in your home as discussed so far
you would certainly have a better feeling about your posses¬
sions. But then suddenly, another thought hits you. What
happens when there is a power failure? You have heard that
this is when many burglars go into operation. Although a
power outage occurs very infrequent these days, you can
obtain units that have a battery standby feature if the thought
of a power outage concerns you.
Nutone Division of Scovill manufactures such a system.
It operates very similar to the ones previously described; that
is, it contains independent fire and security circuits to provide
different alarm signals through a maximum of one inside and
one outside, or two inside alarm devices. A steady signal is
sounded for fire while a pulsating signal is sounded for forced
entry. However, if there is a power failure in the 120-volt
power line, the system automatically switches to an auxiliary
battery power pack for added security. A built-in battery
charger keeps the battery charged when operating on con¬
ventional 120-volt house current, and a battery test feature is
also included for periodic battery tests.

260
Fig. 20-4. Recommended points of installation for entry-detection devices for
doors and windows, noted by circled crosses.

An additional feature that is available on some security

systems designed for the home is a time-delay exit/entry
feature. As the name implies, a solid-state electronic device
delays the alarm, which allows you and your family to leave
and enter the home without setting off the alarm. This elimi¬
nates the need for an outside key-operated switch.

261
Chapter 21
Built-In Central Cleaning Systems

While not usually thought of as an electrical system the central

vacuum cleaning system is an electrically operated appliance
that is installed in many residences (both existing and new) to
make household chores much easier.
The power unit is installed in a central location within the
home, usually in the basement, the garage or a closet and is
powered by an electric motor from 1 to 2 horsepower. Dis¬
posable soil bags are used which are easily replaced when full.
A complete loss of vacuum tells the user that the bag needs
replacing.
Automatic inlets are located strategically located
throughout the home so that the 25-foot flexible cleaning hose
can reach any point within the house. Two-inch-diameter
tubing is run from the central unit to each of the inlets. When
the inlet plate is raised to attach the flexible hose the central
unit comes on allowing the user to clean anywhere in any
direction within 25 feet of the inlet.
An exhaust from the central unit to the outside is also
recommended but is not necessary for efficient operation.
This is just an extra precaution to guard against odors that
may accumulate in the dust bag.
This chapter informs you exactly how to lay out and
install a complete central vacuum system for his own. The

262
263
Fig. 21-1. Floor plan of typical residence, showing center vacuum coverage.
first step is to lay out the hose inlets. Since hose lengths for
most residential units are either 25 feet or 30 feet in length a
radius of the same distance can be cleaned from one inlet. So
with a cord the same length of the hose, locate the inlets so
that every area in the house can be reached. The floor plan in
Fig. 21-1 shows a typical residence where only two inlets give
complete coverage.
For a uniform and neat appearance the inlets should be
installed the same height as the duplex receptacles, TV out¬
lets, etc. (14 to 15 inches above finished floor to bottom of
box). They should also be located near doors or in halls so as
to avoid being covered by furniture. If a stairway is present in
the home try to arrange the inlet location so that the hose will
be pulled up the stairs and not down for safety reasons.
A section of the floor plan in Fig. 21-1 is shown in Fig.
21-2. This section shows the power unit mounted in the
basement, a utility inlet for cleaning the basement area and
the two main floor inlets. In all cases the power unit should
never be mounted more than 8 feet above the lowest inlet;
any distance below the lowest inlet (within reason) is fine. A
central location of the power unit in relationship to the inlets is
also recommended. Figures 21-3, 21-4 and 21-5 show the
power unit location in various types of homes.
While the power unit can be located in a closet provided
that the door is louvered to provide ventilation, a basement,
garage, utility room or carport is better to keep the noise of
the power unit away from the living area.

PLANNING THE TUBING SYSTEM

Once the inlets have been located and the power unit
installed the routing of the PVC (plastic) tubing can be laid out.

264
265
Fig. 21-3. Typical one-fioor installation without basement.
This portion of the system is composed of two basic sections:
the main trunk line that connects several branches, and
branch lines that connect to the inlets as shown in Fig. 21-6. In
planning the system adhere to the following suggestions:
■ Keep all runs of tubing as short and direct as possi¬
ble as unnecessary bends, offsets and fittings re¬
duce operating efficiency
■ Where vertical runs of tubing must carry dirt up¬
ward the rise should be limited to 8 feet if possible,
and never more than 10 feet
■ Where structure is of the split-level or multi-story
types tubing on the top floor can run upward to the
attic space or downward through stud walls, or it
may be run horizontally between joists when rough¬
ing in during new construction
■ Generally, where tubing for two or more inlets on
the upper floor goes upward it makes a simpler
layout to tie them together in the attic space and
then run one vertical drop downward at the most
convenient point to the power unit as shown in Fig.
21-6
The planning of existing structures are not quite as easy. It is
often necessary to go a roundabout way to get to where you
wish to install the inlets. It may be necessary in two-story
dwellings, for example, to run the tubing along side a plumbing
vent pipe or perhaps alongside an air duct to get to the second
floor. Closets are often located one over the other, and in this
situation, the tubing could be run up through them in a back
comer of each.

INSTALLING TUBING & FITTINGS

Size tubing used for most residential central cleaning
units is 2-inch PVC (plastic) tubing. You should use a slow
speed half-inch drill motor with a self-feeding 21/2-inch diame¬
ter bit to drill the required holes for the tubing. A right-angle
drill attachment can save energy, time, and perhaps scratched
knuckles. This type of drill motor is especially useful for
boring holes in an existing structure.

266
267
Fig. 21-4. Typical two-story installation with basement.
268
Fig. 21-5. Typical split-level installation.
 Vertical risers in existing partitions can usually be run
directly in stud walls and fire bridging as shown in Fig. 21-7.
Where drilling becomes impractical other convenient loca¬
tions may prove better and easier. Some of these, as men¬
tioned previously, could include the inside of closets, walls,
beside plumbing vents or within cold, air return ducts.
When cutting the tubing itself always make the cut as
squarely as possible to insure a tight seal between the tubing
and the fitting. Either a tubing cutter or conventional hacksaw
will do.
Once the tubing is cut ream the inside and remove all the
burrs from the outside that could prevent an airtight joint.
There are tools made specially for working with PVC tubing,
but a regular file will do for deburring and reaming.
After making the cut in the tubing and in order to connect
joints together, always apply the cement to the outside of the
tubing. Then press the tubing into the coupling or fitting as
shown in Fig. 21-8. Never put the cement on the inside of the

Fig. 21-6. Pictorial drawings showing main trunk line and branches.

269
coupling or fitting because when the tubing is inserted the
cement will be pushed up to the center and leave a jagged or
rough edge of cement. This rough edge will restrict air flow
and could lead to stoppage at a later date. The cement sets up
rapidly, so don’t hesitate once the glue is applied. Should it
accidentally get inside the tubing wipe it out immediately.
Several factory-made fittings are available for connec¬
tions, turns and taps. Figure 21-9 shows two 90-degree
elbows, a short and sweep. Use the long radius elbows where

270
possible in order to cut down on friction loss in the tubing.
However, there will be times when the use of the short elbow
becomes necessary, but still try to use it only in the exhaust
line.
For taps from the main trunk line, T-fittings (Fig. 21-10)
and Y-fittings (Fig. 21-11) are available. In placing or installing
these types of fittings always make certain that their position
is so arranged to allow the air to flow back toward the power
unit.
When the branch tubing enters the main trunk line from
opposite directions, a 90-degree elbow and a T-fitting are
better than a three-way elbow; both are shown in Fig. 21-12.
Where tubing is run inside a closet rather than in parti¬
tions incorporate fittings as shown in Fig. 21-13. You may use

Fig. 21-9. Two PVC elbows; one short and one sweep ell.

271
a feedthrough flanged T-fitting for split-level or multi-storied
house as many times the tubing will be stubbed up from
underneath the floor as shown in Fig. 21-14. Then use an inlet
adapter to place an inlet on the first floor, and couple straight
up to the second story floor to an additional inlet.
Although it is important to use as few fittings as possible
in order to cut down on air flow resistance certain obstacles
will be found that will have to be bypassed and 45-degree

272
Fig. 21-12. When changing direction in a pipe run, a 90-degree elbow and
T-fitting (on right) is better than a three-way elbow (left).

273
fittings can be used to run the PVC tubing around the obstruc¬
tion as shown in Fig. 21-15.
All horizontal runs of tubing should be supported with
proper straps not more than 6 feet apart. The tubing may be
secured to the bottom of floor joists as shown in Fig. 21-16
and should be anchored at all turns to prevent separation or
movement.
When installing the tubing in new construction always
use nail guards where the tubing is run through the soleplate
or where nails could be driven into the tubing system. This is
one thing that will lead to stoppage and cause a lot of difficulty
when going back at a later date to locate and remove the nail.
Typical nail guards can be seen in Fig. 21-17.
Many times it is possible to run the PVC tubing across
the basement alongside air ducts or soil pipe where the ceiling
may be furred down, making it not necessary to drill through
the joists. It is also possible to run the pipe parallel to the joists
to the outside wall or run alongside other piping where the

274
Fig. 21-15. Method of using 45-degree fittings to bypass obstacles.

275
Fig. 21-17. Nail guards used to protect piping in new construction.

ceiling is furred down. However, never run tubing where it

will come into contact with steam or hot-water pipes.
It is recommended that most models of central vacuum
systems be exhausted to the outside of the building by means
of 2-inch PVC tubing along with the standard fittings as shown
in Fig. 21-18. Never exhaust into a closet wall stud space.
Rather, use an exhaust vent with back draft damper, and
exhaust through outside walls.
After the tubing has been roughed in it is very important
to test the system at that point (before it is covered) to make
sure that you have an airtight system. This can be ac¬
complished by hooking up a power unit and plugging all but one
inlet. At that inlet take a sealed vacuum reading to determine
how much leakage there is in the system as shown in Fig.
21-19.

276
 There usually should be no more than a 5-inch drop
(inches of mercury) by taking a reading at the power unit and a
reading at an inlet with all other inlets sealed off. A leak found
at this stage (before the system is covered) is much easier to
locate and repair. Bear in mind that in many new homes there
will be a voltage drop due to the temporary service coming to
the job site or into the house. This can affect the output of the

SUCTION LINE

EXHAUST LINE-
SEPARATE CIRCUIT
15A 115V/AC-*
SWITCH-

MOUNTING
BKT.

UTILITY INLET

90° TEE

Fig. 21-18. Method of exhausting power unit to outside.

277
vacuum motor and is why it is very important to take a reading
at the power unit as well as at the inlet. Then you will know
how much actual loss you will have in the system. The place¬
ment of the vacuum gauge at the power unit is shown in Fig.
21-20.
The installation of the hose inlets would be the next
logical step. However, before drilling any holes or cutting wall
openings, make certain that your dimensions are correct.
Also check that there are no obstructions below the point you
are planning to come through, such as a heating duct, plumb¬
ing pipes or electrical wires. This can easily be done by driving
a finishing nail or drilling a small hole beside the molding
opposite the proposed hole location. The nail or drill can be
located underneath the floor to make sure there are no
obstructions to prevent drilling. Figure 21-21 illustrates this
method.
When installing the system in an existing installation,
locate the center line of the inlet approximately 14 inches

278
above the finished floor. With a fine-toothed keyhole saw cut
an opening 2Vz inches wide by 414 inches. Most inlet flanges
have very little overlap to cover errors, so make certain that
your measurements are absolutely correct. Next drill a 2V2-
inch diameter opening directly below the center of the wall
opening for the 2-inch PVC tubing. All of these procedures
can be seen in Fig. 21-21.
Wiring for the low-voltage controls should be looped
from one inlet to the next before installing the tubing or wall
inlets. Run the wiring through the same openings drilled for
the tubing and leave approximately 12 inches of wire at each
inlet opening. Secure this wire at the opening to prevent
accidental withdrawal prior to completion.
The tubing comes next and should be inserted so that the
top of the 2-inch PVC extends 113/16-inches above the lower
edge of the rectangular wall opening as shown in Fig. 21-22.
Apply cement to the outside end of the vertical 2-inch tubing,

Fig. 21-20. Vacuum gauge used to test system at power unit.

279
Fig. 21-21. Measurements for roughing in system in existing construction.

and insert the inlet adapter through the opening. Push it

securely onto the 2-inch PVC tubing, referring to Fig. 21-22.
Thread the low-voltage cable through one of the holes in the
mounting plate (Fig. 21-23), and insert this plate through the
wall opening. The mounting plate is then secured with the two
mounting screws as shown in Fig. 21-24. Be sure to install the
gasket between the inlet adapter and the mounting plate. If
the wall is less than a half-inch thick it will be necessary to
inset shims as illustrated in Fig. 21-25.
Once the mounting plate is in place connect the low-
voltage wires to the inlet plate with two wire nuts as shown in
Fig. 21-26. Remove the plaster guard (Fig. 21-25) and insert
the neck of the inlet plate onto the adapter. Then push it into
place. A hooked wire or rod inserted through the opening of
the inlet will help to hold the adapter while forcing the inlet into
position. The inlet plate is then secured with two screws.
When installing the system in new construction where
the walls are open the procedure is the same except that you
will have less cutting and fishing. After locating the opening
drill a 2y2-inch diameter hole in the center of the stud plate

280
with the center of the hole 1 9/16-inches from the wall stud
(see Fig. 21-27). Nail the mounting plate to the wall stud
approximately 14 inches above the floor and with the inlet
opening directly above the hole in the stud plate. Attach the
inlet adapter to the wall plate with two 10-32 screws. Then
run the PVC tubing from the inlet adapter back to the point
where it connects to the main feeder line.
The low-voltage wiring can be taped or wrapped around
the 2-inch PVC tubing, brought through the opening in the
bracket and a knot tied in it so that it cannot be pulled back

281
Fig. 21*23. Threading the low-voltage cable through the mounting plate.

Fig. 21-24. Method of securing the mounting plate with two screws.

282
pg. 21-25. Shims must be inserted if the wall is less than a half-inch thick.

Fig. 21-26. The low-voltage wires are connected to the inlet plate with two wire
nuts.

283
Fig. 21-27. Measurements for roughing in piping for new construction.

accidentally. Leave approximately 12 inches of wire at the

opening. The remaining steps are the same as described for
installing the system in existing structures.
The installation of the power unit comes next. For exist¬
ing construction, Figs. 21-28, 21-29 and 21-30 give the steps
involved, while Figs. 21-31, 21-32 and 21-33 give the proce¬
dures for installing the unit in new construction as well as the
connections for both types.

FINAL CHECKOUT
When the entire system is in place, a final check and test
should be made and will consist of the following:
■ Make sure that all inlets are closed and the filter bag
and secondary filter are in place before starting the
vacuum motor

284
Fig. 21-28. Measurements for roughing in mounting bracket for power unit for
existing construction.

Fig. 21-29. Method of installing flexible tubing to the power unit.

285
units.

Fig. 21-31. Method of roughing in mounting bracket for the power unit in new
construction.

286
Fig. 21-32. Dimensions for installing PVC tubing to the power unit in either old or
new construction.

Fig. 21-33. Detail of pipe connections for either old or new construction.

287
 ■ Open one inlet at a time. Insert metal end of cleaning
hose into inlet. Vacuum motor will start immediately
and automatically. Remove hose and the unit will cut
off automatically.
■ Check the vacuum. Insert hose again. Place your
fingers over the cleaning end and you should feel a
violent rush of air through the fingers. If this fails to
occur there is probably an open joint somewhere in
the tubing or else a malfunction at some other point.
■ Use a vacuum gauge if a leak is suspected and
measure inches of mercury at the inlet. Then sepa¬
rate the suction tube at the power unit to check the
vacuum at this point.
■ Recheck vacuum drop. Replace vacuum suction
tube at power unit. If all checks out the system will
be in proper working order.

288
 Chapter 22
Installing Add-On Air Conditioning

The inclusion of central air conditioning in new homes was

considered a prohibitive luxury for many homeowners only a
few years ago. They had to be content with only a heating
system and perhaps a small window air conditioner in the
bedroom or family room. But, central air conditioning now
comes in kit form with costs cut to a bare minimum. The
average handyman can make the installation in a six-to-eight
room house that has forced-air heat with adequate blower and
ductwork for under twelve hundred dollars, perhaps even less
if the components are purchased in the fall or winter during
the off season.
The working principle of this system is simple as can be
seen in Fig. 22-1. A compact cooling coil is installed in the
furnace plenum or warm-air outlet in the furnace. Then refri¬
gerant lines are run from the coil to a remote condensing unit
mounted outdoors. When the power and control wiring is
connected and the unit energized the existing fan or blower in
the furnace pushes air through the coil and into the existing
ducting to every room in the home. In winter the furnace runs
as usual as the condensing unit is turned off.
There are several companies manufacturing central re¬
sidential air-conditioning components designed specially for
the do-it-yourselfer. Most of these kits require very little skill

289
and only a few hand tools, all found around the home or farm,
and are necessary to complete the average installation in a
single day.
Costs of the kits begin around seven hundred dollars for a
2-ton unit (24,000 Btuh) to over one thousand dollars for a
4-ton (48,000 Btuh) unit. The length of the refrigerant tubing,
the type of controls and the possibility of needing a replace¬
ment blower for your furnace—in case your present one is too
small—are other factor which will affect the costs of the kits.
Add seventy-five dollars for a concrete pad and another one
hundred dollars for miscellaneous materials and we come up
with a total cost of between one thousand and fifteen hundred
dollars for the complete installation.
In general, there are two basic steps to adding centf al air
conditioning to your existing forced-air system, an analysis of
your home’s cooling requirements and selecting and installing
the components.
This chapter is designed to give you a general knowledge
of the installation procedures. Then, if you’re convinced that
you want to tackle the job yourself exact step-by-step instruc¬
tions can be obtained when you have chosen the type of kit
you intend to purchase or when you pick up the components.
A careful analysis .of your home’s cooling requirements
is an all-important step to help you select the proper size and
type of equipment needed for your particular home and exist¬
ing forced-air system. It is important because an undersized
unit will not provide enough cooling to do the job and an
oversized unit not only costs more money, but can also cause
as much dissatisfaction as an undersized unit in terms of
comfort. An oversized unit will be cutting on and off all day
with long periods of not running; such an operation will not
maintain an even temperature nor will it dehumidify properly.
In most areas an engineer at your local utility company
will be happy to make the analysis for you, calculating your
exact cooling requirements along with the yearly operating
costs. This is often done at little or no charge to the
homeowner. If you want to do the job yourself, Do-it-
Yourselfer’s Guide to Modern Energy-Efficient Heating &
Cooling Systems (#903), published by TAB BOOKS, has a

290
Fig. 22-1. Basic components of an add-on cooling system.

chapter describing in detail how to make cooling calculations

for the home.
With the calculations complete your dealer will be able to
recommend the correct cooling equipment for your system,
quote an exact cost and furnish you with detailed instructions
for installing the equipment in your home’s forced-air heating
system. Your kit will look something like the one illustrated in
Fig. 22-2 and will consist of two lengths of refrigerant tubing,
four baffles, plenum cover, coil supports, sealers, cooling coil,
condenser-compressor unit and complete step-by-step in¬
structions so that you can’t go wrong.

291
Fig. 22-2. Typical add-on cooling kit for a forced-air system.

MOUNTING THE CONDENSING UNIT

Prior to ordering your kit, select the exact spot you
intend to mount the outside section (condensing unit). This
will enable you to order the correct length of refrigerant
tubing.
All air-cooled condensing units must be mounted outside
of the building, as near as possible to the cooling coil inside of
the furnace plenum and on solid level supports such as those
shown in Fig. 22-3. Proper clearance must also be provided
for the air intake and the air discharge, refrigerant piping and
power connections. Clearance, of course, must also be pro¬
vided for servicing and maintenance of the unit.

INSTALLING THE COOLING COIL

Most cooling coils designed for the do-it-yourselfer are
charged with a specific holding charge of refrigerant and

292
sealed at the factory to help simplify the installation. You will
need only a few hand tools for this job, that is, tin snips,
electric drill, screwdriver, knife, hammer, scratch awl, level,
drop light and 14-inch drill bit.

1. Poured or pre-cast leveled concrete slab,

26” x 26" long x approximately 4” thick.

2. Two pre-cast patio blocks approximately

12” x 26” x 4” thick, leveled.

3. Four, 4” x 8” x 16” concrete blocks, set

and leveled as shown.

Fig. 22-3. Three types of supports on which the condensing unit may be
mounted.

293
Fig. 22-4. Cutting the opening in the furnace plenum with tin snips.

You begin with starting a hole in the furnace plenum by

placing a screwdriver at an angle against the sheet metal, then
strike a sharp blow with a hammer. With tin snips, cut a small
opening to enable you to examine the interior of the plenum to
ascertain height and position of the inside duct flanges. Once
the flanges have been located continue to cut out the opening
(Fig. 22-4) to dimensions slightly larger than the height and
width of the cooling coil.
Your next step will be to place the support bars in place,
then cut the baffles to fit. With these in place a sealing
compound is used to insure that all air goes through the
cooling coil. All of these components can be viewed in Fig.
22-5. Distance A in Fig. 22-5 must be less than the width of
the coil assembly.
You now have the hardest parts completed and you’re
more than halfway finished. So why not take a short break and
try to round up a neighbor to help you lift the cooling coil in
place.

294
Fig. 22-5. Placement of the coil supports.

To place the cooling coil inside of the plenum, grasp the

coil by the tubing at point A as shown in Fig. 22-6, and the
condensate tray at point B. Always keep the top of the coil
near the top of the plenum opening while inserting it, and
never allow the bottom of the coil to move the seal out of its
proper position. If it does you will have to reseal the baffles
with caulking compound.
When the cooling coil is in place and you’re certain that an
airtight seal has been accomplished replace the opening
cover, insert and tighten all screws and you’re just about
ready to connect the refrigerant lines. But first install a 3/4-inch

Fig. 22-6. Method of inserting the coil into a plenum.

295
condensate line from the condensate tray to the closest floor
drain, sump pit or similar place where the condensate liquid
can be properly disposed of.

Fig. 22-8. Larger tubing is formed

with a spring bender covering the
area to be bent, then placed over the
knee. Care should be taken not to
kink the tubing.

INSTALLING THE REFRIGERANT TUBING

Since the cooling coil is usually inside of the house and the
condensing unit outside holes of the proper size will have to be

Fig. 22-9. Tightening refrigerant line couplings with wrenches in the correct
manner.

296
297
Fig. 22-10 Electrical wiring diagram of a typical add-on cooling system.
cut to allow the refrigerant lines to pass. When running the
tubing you will have to do some bending, but since the copper
tubing has been annealed it can be formed to look neat with
just the hands. The bends of the smaller tubing are made over
the thumbs as shown in Fig. 22-7 while the larger tubing is
bent over the knee (Fig. 22-8) after inserting a coiled spring
tube bender, usually furnished with the kits, to avoid kinking.
The couplings are then connected to their proper places
on the coil and condenser, only hand tight at first. After all four
connections have been loosely made tighten the couplings,
using appropriate wrenches as shown in Fig. 22-9 until a
definite resistance is felt. Then tighten an additional quarter-
turn.

INSTALLING THE ELECTRICAL WIRING

Different manufacturers will have slightly different wir¬
ing connections, but the wiring details in Fig. 22-10 show the
basic procedures.
In nearly every case the condensing unit for a home
central air-conditioning system will be rated at 240 volts,
single phase. So review Chapter 9 before starting the installa¬
tion. Chapter 8 will also help you with the low-voltage control
wiring. Just remember that for both the 240-volt circuit and
the low-voltage wiring all work must meet the requirments
set forth in the National Electrical Code and all local ordi¬
nances.
With the wiring out of the way you have nothing left to do
but follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the start-up
procedures, then set back and enjoy your central air-
conditioning system for years to come.

298
 Chapter 23
Electronic Garage Door Controls

Like most Americans you probably have several of the mod¬

em conveniences in your home. Your home is probably
heated with automatic controls, you can turn your TV set on
from your favorite chair and talk from one room to another
without taking a step or raising your voice. But how do you
tackle the largest single moving part of your house—your
garage door? If you still operate the garage door by hand
you’re missing a lot of convenience and security that you can
easily have by installing an automatic garage door system.
That’s right. You operate the door by remote control.
Day or night, whatever the weather, you’ll be dry and com¬
fortable because you stay in the car until you’re inside the
garage—plus no bending or lifting.

WHY HAVE ONE?

Let’s assume that your wife has gone over to a friend’s
house for a game of bridge with the girls. When she returns
home, it’s after midnight, raining like cats and dogs and you
forgot to leave the outside lighting on for her to see. With a
manual garage door, she would have to get out of the car in the
dark, get soaking wet in the rain, fumble for the key, then
manually raise the door. Besides getting wet, she would also
be subject to attack from prowlers. You could have left the

299
garage door open for her before you turned out the lights and
went to bed, but an open garage door advertises that no one is
home. It’s an open invitation to prowlers or intruders.
On the other hand if your home was equipped with an
automatic garage door system, your wife would merely press
a transmitter in her car as she pulled up into the driveway. As
the garage door automatically opens, a light inside of the
garage automatically turns on at the same time, allowing her
to see inside of the garage before she enters.
She then drives in the garage but stays in her car until the
garage door closes and locks behind her. The automatic light,
however, stays on until she has time to enter the house or
turn on an auxiliary light. She never needs to be in the dark to
stumble over something. The closed garage door is' also
provided with an automatic lock to help deter even the most
aggressive unwanted caller.
If the garage door meets an obstruction while opening or
closing, it automatically reverses or comes to a full stop,
depending upon the type you install. This helps to protect
children, pets and possessions from being trapped under the
door.
Regardless of the type of garage door you now have or
plan to install there are automatic garage door systems de¬
signed to operate them. Most types specially engineered for
residential use, however, are designed for use on 7-foot or
8-foot upward-acting doors, either single or double sectional
doors and one-piece doors with track or jam hardware.

INSTALLATION
Figure 23-1 shows a top and side view of an installation
detail for a sectional door. In this type of installation, the
motor assembly and chain-drive track attaches to ceiling or
wood support with angle straps. It should be located in the
exact center of your garage door opening with one end of the
track attached to the header above the garage door opening
using the mounting bracket that comes with each kit. The
door-connecting arm that is shipped assembled to the track
rail is adjustable for door height clearance. Merely loosen the
two bolts, adjust the mounting bracket section to the proper
position and secure it to the top of your garage door with the

300
Fig. 23-1. Top and side view of a garage door opener installed on a sectional
door.

two or three woods screws that come with the outfit. Run a
120-volt power line from your panel box, or nearby lighting or
convenience outlet (as described for duplex receptacle wiring
earlier in this book). You’re ready for operation once you
connect the receiver with only two wires to the 24-volt con¬
trol circuit of the garage door operator. You then press your
remote transmitter to operate the garage door.
A typical installation would begin by ordering a door
system designed for your particular type of door, that is,
upward-acting single or double sectional doors or a one-piece
door with track or jamb hardware. A sectional door installation
is shown in Fig. 23-1, a one-piece door installation is shown in
Fig. 23-2 and a one-piece door with jamb hardware is shown in
Fig. 21-3. In all situations, make certain that you have enough
head room for the track before ordering the system.
Since the one-piece door with jamb hardware is the most
complicated to install, we will use this type as our installation
example.
Before beginning any mounting of the automatic door
system, operate the garage manually several times in order to
determine the lowest and highest points of the door top as
shown by the dotted line in Fig. 23-3. When you are certain

301
Fig. 23-2. Top and side view of a garage door opener installed on a one-piece
door.

that you have correctly determined these points clearly mark

each one.
Next line up the motor housing in the exact center of the
garage door and level with the lowest point of the open door.
Position it only, do not secure firmly. Elevate the track or
T-rail end that is opposite the motor housing to an angle
required to clear the highest point of the door’s path of travel.
Using the screw holes in the mounting bracket as a guide mark
the location of the screw holes on either the ceiling or wall,
whichever the bracket is to be mounted too. In choosing this
location make certain that the structure is strong enough to
mount the bracket.
If the structure to which the bracket is attached is wood
conventional wood screws supplied with the kit will suffice.
However, if the attaching point is masonry, toggle bolts will
have to be used for attaching to hollow concrete block, and lag
or other type of masonry anchor will have to be used in brick
or solid masonry walls or ceilings. For the former (toggle
bolts) drill a hole through the masonry to the hollow area,
large enough for the bolt and wings to pass. In solid masonry

302
drill a hole with either a masonry drill or star drill and hammer.
The size of the hole should be just large enough to accept the
lead sleeve and deep enough so that it fits flush with the wall or
ceiling surface prior to setting the anchor. A special tool for
setting the anchors is sometimes supplied with the anchors.
The method of installation is shown in Fig. 23-4.
Once the door end of the track or T-rail is secure, mount
the motor housing in its proper position (level with the lowest
point of the door top as it travels). Where the ceiling consists
of wood joists the motor housing can be secured directly to
the sides of the joists with wood screws. In masonry walls or
ceilings a special bracket will have to be secured to the wall or
ceiling first with lead anchors or toggle bolts before the motor
housing can be attached to it with bolts and nuts.
The next logical step would be to mount the connecting
arm from the track of the T-bar to the door. Mount this arm
directly in the center of the garage door and near the top of it.
Wood screws are provided with the kit for installing the arm to
the garage door, and bolts and nuts are used to connect the
arm to the track of the T-bar. For a one-piece door with jamb

Fig. 23-3. Top and side view of a garage door opener attached to a one-piece
door with jamb hardware. ,

303
 DRILL HOLE
%" DIA
1" DEEP (MIN)

Fig. 23-4. Method of securing items to masonry walls. First drill the hole with a
star drill or masonry drill bit. Then insert the lead or plastic anchor. The anchor
should be snug in order for it to hold. Finally with the item in place insert the
sheet-metal screw or lag bolt.

hardware, a longer-than-usual arm, about 4 feet long, de¬

signed to operate this type of door more smoothly and effi¬
ciently should be used.
Drive motors used on most residential garage door sys¬
tems usually are rated between one-quarter to one-third
horsepower, each pulling approximately 5 amperes of cur¬
rent. Therefore, AWG #14 will handle this load quite well. In
fact if the circuit feeding the garage lights is not fully loaded it
is quite permissible to feed the drive motor of the operating
system directly from one of the nearby lighting outlet boxes.

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
You may also want to include—out of necessity or
convenience—one or more of the following optional acces¬
sories.
outside key-operated manual release—Allows manual
release of operator from outside garage where a secondary
entry is not provided. It mounts on face of garage door as
close as possible to operator release mechanism.

304
low headroom kit—for use with sectional garage door
installation only without sufficient headroom clearance,
that is, less than IV2 inches for operator,
installation strapping—Galvanized angle strapping with
11/32-inch holes on 1-inch centers for securing garage
door operator to ceiling joists.

305
Chapter 24
Major Appliance Considerations
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
Frequent additions to existing residential or farm electrical
wiring systems are appliances of one sort or another, or the
installation of new equipment or machinery. These added
loads may not, but often do, necessitate the running of new
circuits or the installation of a new service entrance for in¬
creased capacity and may even instigate a rewiring job.
If rewiring is required or new circuits must be run or the
service-entrance equipment has to be changed refer to the
applicable information in earlier chapters. The following pages
will give you detailed information on installing various specific
units useful for making allowances for future additions, for
installations in a new system or for additions to an old one.

COMPACTOR
The trash compactor is becoming an increasingly popular
appliance and is one of the easiest to install. This appliance is
designed to operate on 120-volt circuits and is equipped with a
short cord and attachment plug assembly for quick connection
to a convenience receptacle. The plug is three-pronged and
should be used with a grounding receptacle so that the metal
frame of the compactor is adequately grounded. If grounding
proves to be impractical you‘may be able to omit it, depending
upon local codes.

306
 Most compactors draw between 400 and 500 watts. As
they are motor driven there is a certain amount of starting
current surge. There is also the possibility of their working
under heavy load or jamming, which means high potential
current draw. On the other hand, they are used infrequently
and only operate for a short period of time. You could run a
separate circuit to a compactor, either 15 or 20 amperes. You
could also wire it to an existing circuit that is not loaded to
more than about half of its 80 percent capacity, provided that
no lighting fixtures are on the same circuit.

DISPOSAL
The garbage disposal is a fixed appliance and installation
is governed by local codes in many places. Made to operate on
a 120-volt branch circuit, most consume about 400 to 500
watts of power, but some may go as high as 1000 watts. A
disposal is permanently installed in a drain line under the sink,
and it usually is wired directly from a wall junction box by
means of suitable tap conductors run in a length of flexible
conduit to a connection box within the unit. Most are operated
by a wall switch located near the sink. The disconnecting
means can be that same controlling switch, backed up by the
main switch. Or, it can be the branch circuit breaker if readily
accessible.
The preferable means of installation is to provide a short
cord and three-pronged attachment plug to connect to a
grounded receptacle located close to the disposal. This
method is preferred because a disposal is sometimes installed
and connected by a plumber, rather than electrician, who may
not know the value of the ground connection. Or, the unit may
be removed by a serviceman with the same lack of knowledge
and replaced without benefit of ground. With a grounding plug
attachment, there is no chance for mistakes.
The disposal is motor driven and has a start-up current
surge plus the possibility of high current draw if it bogs down
or jams. Most are protected internally against burnout or
overheating of the motor with a resettable protective device.
They should be, and are often required to be, supplied by a
separate 20-ampere circuit and wired with AWG #12.

307
REFRIGERATOR & FREEZER
Domestic refrigerators and freezers are made to operate
on 120 volts and are supplied with cords and attachment
plugs. A few might be considered as fixed appliances but most
are stationary, and the disconnecting means is the attachment
plug and receptacle combination. Most units consume only a
couple hundred watts of power, though some may go as high
as 400 watts. The usual procedure is to plug them in any¬
where, without much regard for the rest of the circuit load.
But they are motor driven, thus have a starting surge, so
plenty of margin is desirable.
Separate circuits are a good idea for both appliances to
insure greater safety for their expensive contents if nothing
else. If another load on the refrigerator circuit trips the circuit
out unnoticed, the result could be a major household crisis.
The separate circuits can be either 15 or 20 amperes. If either
appliance is placed on a circuit with other loads take care that
the circuit is only lightly loaded and has no chance of being
used for portable appliances of high wattage.
Most appliances that operate on 120 volts are not re¬
quired under the NEC to have their frames grounded, but
refrigerators and freezers in household use are two important
exceptions. Both must be adequately grounded. With new
equipment and a fairly new electrical system that includes a
grounding equipment conductor and three-slot receptacles,
this is no problem. But older units will have two-prong plugs
and two-conductor cords, and the existing receptacles may
well be nongrounding. In this case you should convert them if
possible, and if you cannot, it may be necessary to provide a
separate grounding conductor from a nearby cold-water pipe
to the appliance frame.

CLOTHES WASHER
Clothes washers are made to operate on a 120-vdt
branch circuit and are supplied with a cord and attachment
plug rather than being directly wired. This is another of the
excepted instances when the appliance must be adequately
grounded. If you have an ungrounded electrical system
examine the possibilities of installing a new grounded circuit,

308
or a grounded extension to an existing circuit, using the
three-slot grounded receptacles.
Small washers may use as little as 60 watts of power.
The medium range seems to be about 400 watts, but many
large units take as much as 900 watts. This means at the least
that you should carefully size the specific washer load to an
existing circuit, using either a lightly loaded circuit or one
which has loads that are not likely to be used concurrently
with the washer. This is a motor load, so the starting surge
has to be considered. Large machines should be supplied by a
separate circuit, or one that has only a small lighting load, for
instance, with no chance of other appliances being plugged in
along the line. The disconnecting means is usually considered
to be the attachment plug.

CLOTHES DRYER
There is a wide range of clothes dryers available on
today’s market. The smallest are made to run on a 120-volt
branch circuit and consume about 1400 to 1500 watts of
power. These must be fed by an individual 20-ampere branch
circuit. Other types are designed for 208/240-volt operation,
fed by an individual three-wire branch circuit. Power con¬
sumption may run from about 4400 to 7000 watts for automa¬
tic dryers, while the high-speed type may consume as much
as 9000 watts. The common practice is to provide conductors
matched to the size of the present dryer load, but a better
practice is to install a heavy line adequate for the largest
types, though with the overcurrent protection device sized to
the present load. Then later replacement with a larger size
dryer can be made with no difficulties.
A dryer is a combination load, involving both a motor load
and a heating load. To arrive at the proper conductor size, find
the current draw of the motor and multiply that by 125 per¬
cent. The heating load will probably be given in watts; divide
that by the source voltage and add the answer in amperes to
the motor amperage.
If your voltage source is somewhat different than listed
on the motor you might wish to convert for greater accuracy.
For instance, your motor load is 5 amperes at 220 volts, but
your source is 208 volts. Find the wattage (P -IE); multiply

309
220 times 5 to obtain 1100 watts. Then divide the wattage by
208 (J —P/E) for an answer of 5.3 amperes. Then multiply
that by 125 percent for a total of 6.6 amperes motor load.
Assume the heat load wattage to be 5000; divide that by your
source voltage of 208, for a current draw of 24 amperes. Add
the two, and your total load is 30.6 amperes. By consulting
Table II-1 (Appendix II) you can see that the nearest conduc¬
tor size to this figure, in the 60°C class, is AWG #8 copper.
An alternative method of figuring is to take the total
wattage of the dryer, convert to current draw, multiply by 125
percent, and pick the appropriate conductor size on that basis.
If the total wattage is 8000 and your source voltage is 208,
then I = P/E or 8000/208 = 38.46 amperes, times 125
percent equals approximately 48 amperes. From the conduc¬
tor table, then, the proper 60°C conductor size is AWG #6.
Note that in some installations it may be necessary to go to a
higher temperature class.
The frames of all dryers must be grounded. This means
that a fourth conductor (green or bare) must be included in the
cable assembly of the branch circuit. If the circuit is run in a
metallic raceway the raceway can be used as the equipment
grounding conductor. There is one exception though: if the
supplying service is 120/240-volt three-wire or is 120/208
volts derived from a three-phase four-wire supply the neutral
and the equipment grounding conductor can be the same as
long as that conductor is no smaller than AWG #10 copper.
This means that the cable can consist of three conductors
instead of four with the neutral (white) also attached to the
appliance frame.
An old standby for wiring dryers is type SE cable, which
has a stranded bare neutral conductor wrapped around the
two hot insulated conductors. There are some fairly new
restrictions on the use of this type of cable—it can now be
used for this purpose only if the branch circuit originates in the
main service equipment, and never from a subpanel or load
center. A dryer branch circuit originating from a subpanel
must have all insulated conductors, three or four as the
situation demands. Also, if your supply source is different
than those mentioned above so that the equipment grounding

310
conductor and the neutral cannot be the same the conductors
must all be insulated.
A dryer may be wired directly into the system by means
of tap conductors, or it may be provided with a heavy-duty
molded cord and attachment plug assembly (usually called a
pigtail) and a matching receptacle that may be either flush or
surface mounted. These come in various standard sizes: 20-,
30-, 40-ampere and so forth. Whenever possible, the plug and
receptacle arrangement should be used for ease of service.
Every dryer must have a disconnect, which can be the at¬
tachment plug if readily accessible, or the branch circuit
breaker. It is also permissible to use the main service discon¬
nect or the branch circuit pull-out fuse holder.

ROOM HEATER
There are dozens of types of electric room heaters,
some portable and others built-in. Many operate on 120-volt
branch circuits, while others, almost invariably of the built-in
type, function on 208/240 volts. The portable variety may
consume anywhere from a low of 200 to 300 watts to a high of
about 1500 watts. Some models also are equipped with a small
fan for air circulation. The portable types should be used with
great care and only on individual or lightly loaded circuits,
depending upon the wattage of the unit. A1500-watt unit, for
instance, goes beyond the 80 percent loading factor of a
15-ampere circuit; it has only a 3-ampere margin on a 20-
ampere circuit. Cord and three-prong grounding plugs are
usually provided, and the units should always be well
grounded.
The wattage rating of the built-in types may be as low as
500 watts, or range up to 6000 or more. Some are equipped
with fans and others are not, and they may be controlled by
line-voltage thermostats built into the unit or mounted on the
wall, or by low-voltage wall thermostats. Conductors are
sized on the basis of 125 percent of the current draw; divide
the wattage of the unit by your supply voltage, and multiply by
1.25 to find the answer.
Larger heating units are served by individual branch
circuits sized to the load, and the insulation can be in the 60°C
class unless a notation to the contrary is stamped on the

311
equipment. They must be properly grounded and have over¬
current protection sized to the circuit conductors. The dis¬
connecting device can be the branch circuit overcurrent de¬
vice, or the main disconnect if readily accessible to the user.
Several units may be wired to one circuit or controlled by one
or more thermostats.

WATER PUMP
Water pumps are usually installed in a location where
they can be served by surface wiring. They may be wired
direct to a junction box by means of tap connectors in a length
of flex, or they may be equipped with an attachment plug and
receptacle. There is a wide variety made to run on 120 volts,
more for 208/240 volts, and some are arranged so that they
can be wired either way by simply connecting the proper
combination of terminals in the connection box. Power con¬
sumption runs from about 450 watts on up, depending upon
the size of the pump.
Smaller units can be served by a branch circuit that
includes additional loads, though the most advisable situation
is a separate circuit. A disconnect or service switch may be
required at or near the pump, and sometimes overcurrent
protection is provided at the equipment in addition to that at
the head end of the branch circuit. This protection is sized
closely to the normal demands of the motor, so that if it begins
to drag or bog down, as when trying to pump against a frozen
water line, the circuit will trip out quickly. Thus, a motor with
a normal running current of 7.8 amperes might be protected
with a time delay fuse rated at 8 amperes, which would trip
long before a 20-ampere branch circuit protection device
might.
Water pumps must be well grounded. The disconnecting
means may be attachment plug and receptacle, branch circuit
overcurrent protection device, service switch or a separate
disconnect, depending upon local codes, the specific equip¬
ment and the installation conditions.

WASTE AERATOR
This equipment is relatively new to the market and is
made under several trade names. Designed to take the place

312
of a standard septic tank, these units break down household
waste and sewage by mechanical and bacterial action, and the
resulting output is almost completely pure water. They con¬
stitute motor loads, and though there are various sizes, none
made for residential use draw any great amount of power.
This equipment is made to be buried and so requires an
underground branch circuit to supply the power. The usual
method is to run AWG #10 or #12 type UF cable, properly
buried and nowhere exposed to sunlight. Alternative methods
may be required by local codes, such as metallic or perhaps
nonmetallic raceway. Installation procedures and methods
are the same as for a service lateral. The equipment must be
grounded and protected by an overcurrent device sized to the
serving branch circuit, with additional protection sized to the
motors if desired. Ground-fault current protection would be a
good idea.
ROOM AIR CONDITIONER
Room air conditioners, whether wall- or window-
mounted and whether fixed, semiportable or entirely porta¬
ble, are considered as appliances. Most units designed to
operate on 120 volts consume power in the range of 800 to
1500 watts, so they should be supplied by individual branch
circuits, though some of the smaller portable types can be
plugged into existing general-purpose circuits provided that
no other heavy loads are involved. The 208/240-volt models
may consume from 2000 to 4500 watts, possibly more, and
are served by separate three-wire branch circuits. Two or
more can be attached to the same circuit, provided that the
loading reaches no more than 80 percent of the conductor
ampacity of the circuit.
Most 120-volt types use an attachment plug for connec¬
tion to the circuit. The 208/240-volt types can be wired
direct, but often they too are fitted with attachment plugs for
ease of service and removal. The receptacles are similar to
those used for dryers and may be either flush or surface
mounted. The branch circuit rating should be not less than 125
percent of the current draw of the unit, and the overcurrent
protection device can be sized to the capacity of the conduc¬
tors. Proper grounding is required, and the disconnecting

313
means is generally the attachment plug or the branch circuit
overcurrent device, or it can be the main disconnect.

DISHWASHER
Automatic dishwashers are made in two types: portable,
which roll around on castors, and fixed, for undercounter
permanent installation. All run on 120 volts and most consume
about 750 watts of power, though a few go higher. For the
roll-around type, a specific convenience receptacle close to
the sink should be provided where the machine can be plugged
in. The branch circuit should really be an individual one, or at
the least one that will have no other load attached at the same
time the dishwasher is operating. The same is true of the
built-in models, except that in many localities this type is
required to be on a separate circuit.
Fixed dishwashers are generally supplied with only a
connection box for direct wiring into the system with tap
conductors run in a length of flex to a junction box usually
placed in or on the wall behind the machine. A better system is
to provide a short cord and attachment plug and a grounded
receptacle. This makes servicing easier and avoids the possi¬
bility that some serviceman might not replace the grounding
conductor properly. The branch circuit may be rated 15 or 20
amperes, with the overcurrent protection device or the main
disconnect serving as the disconnecting means. A separate
service disconnect may also be required. Proper grounding is
an absolute must.

SUMP PUMP
Sump pumps are generally used in the home to keep the
basement clear of water during the spring flooding. All are
designed for 120-volt operation and are usually equipped with
an attachment plug and cord to be plugged into any handy
receptacle.
Smaller models, which use about 500 watts of power,
may be plugged into an existing circuit. But since this is a
motor load, which as a rule will turn on automatically upon
demand, the serving circuit should not be a heavily loaded
one, probably not more than 50 percent of current capacity.

314
Manual types of pumps can be run with other loads on the
same circuit and turned off when necessary. Large sump
pumps will use as much as 1000 watts of power, and if
automatic should be served by an individual branch circuit.
These pumps can also clog easily under some cir¬
cumstances. If this looks like a possibility, install a time-lag
motor fuse assembly in a junction box at some point between
the pump and the branch circuit outlet with the fuse sized
closely to the normal running current of the motor.
The plug attachment and receptacle can serve as the
disconnecting means, but if the pump is permanently installed
you may be required to have a motor-rated service switch or
other separate disconnect close to the equipment. Proper
grounding is particularly important.

BARBECUE & SMOKER

Electric barbecues and smokers have become increas¬
ingly popular over the past few years. Often as not, they have
been improperly installed. These portable appliances are de¬
signed to operate on 120 volts and are supplied with a ground¬
ing attachment plug and cord. Power consumption may run
anywhere from 1000 watts to 1500 watts, which means that
they should be served by individual branch circuits. Since
these appliances are invariably used outdoors that circuit is
usually placed underground in a rigid metallic conduit raceway
or protective stub, and should terminate in a weatherproof
outlet box equipped with a weatherproof grounding recepta¬
cle.
The installation of the circuit itself, whether done with
direct-burial cable or in buried raceway should be treated as
though it were a service lateral.

VENT FAN
Ventilation and exhaust fans of one sort or another are
usually found in the home, perhaps as part of the heating
system, or in bathrooms, range hoods, roof ventilators,
photographic darkroom air changers, etc. Most are designed
to be wired directly to the system, except for the portable

315
plug-in cooling fans, and most draw only a small amount of
current. Even large attic venting fans usually draw no more
than 3 or 4 amperes. This means that almost invariably they
may be connected to any branch circuit, provided the total
draw including the fan does not load the circuit to more than 80
percent of its conductor current ratings.
Permanently installed fans should be grounded in the
usual manner wherever possible. In some cases, such as a
roof or attic venting system where the ambient temperatures
are likely to be above normal, insulation of a high-temperature
class must be used on the conductors. Usually a minimum
75°C class is adequate. Switch or controller loops should be of
the same temperature class. When figuring loads use 125
percent of the nameplate current rating.

FOOD CENTER
Food processing centers are made to be permanently
installed in a convenient countertop location in the kitchen.
They are used for blending, grinding, and chopping operations
of relatively short duration. They operate on 120 volts and
consume around 400 watts of power. As motorized loads,
they should be figured at 125 percent of the nameplate rating
for total load current draw. They can be readily wired to an
existing small appliance circuit or general-purpose circuit that
has sufficient load capacity, particularly one that has loads
attached that are not likely to be in use at the same time as the
food center.

WALL TOASTER
This is a relatively new appliance that is modeled after
the standard kitchen toaster, but is permanently installed in a
case recessed into the wall and pulls out on a slide for use.
Wiring is done by direct connection to the circuit. The operat¬
ing voltage is 120 volts, and the power consumption may run
from 800 watts to 1600 watts. A large unit should be served
by an individual 20-ampere circuit; a smaller one can be
connected to a small appliance circuit that has sufficient re¬
maining load capacity, or where there is ample diversification
of existing loads so that there is no chance of overload. Proper
grounding is essential.

316
FIRELOGS
Electric fireplaces and firelogs are available in two dif¬
ferent types: those that produce heat and those that do not.
The nonheating variety only draws 60 to 100 watts of power,
about the same as a light bulb, and so can be attached to
almost any circuit. Such models are equipped with a cord and
attachment plug. There seems to be a rule that says there is
never a receptacle right where you want to position the
fireplace, though, so you will probably have to arrange a
branch circuit extension.
The heating type of electric fireplace is also made to
operate on 120 volts, and it can be connected by means of a
special high-temperature heating appliance cord and attach¬
ment plug, or wired direct. Power consumption is about 1500
watts. This may be considered as a continuous load since it
could easily be operated for more than 3 hours at a time. For
this reason the supplying branch circuit should be AWG #10
because the 80 percent loading factor is exceeded on a 20-
ampere circuit. This would hold true for any unit where 125
percent of the rated current, computed on the basis of your
own voltage supply, would exceed 16 amperes. A 30-ampere
circuit could be protected with a 20-ampere breaker if supply¬
ing only the fireplace, or with a 30-ampere breaker if other
loads are connected to the same circuit. As with all equipment
of this sort, grounding is essential.

HUMIDIFIER
Portable humidifiers are designed to operate on 120 volts
and are supplied with cord and grounding attachment plug so
that they may be plugged into any convenient receptacle.
Power consumption is low, from about 250 to 600 watts. They
usually constitute a continuous load, so when determining the
total load, multiply the nameplate rating by 1.25 and convert
to amperage draw. Thus, a 500 watt unit on 120 volts would
have a total demand of 500 x 1.25 = 625 watts, which divided
by 120 equals 5.2 amperes. A humidifier can be used on any
circuit, provided that the current rating of the circuit is not
exceeded.

317
EVAPORATIVE COOLER
Evaporative coolers are designed for operation at 120
volts, with a power consumption of 400 to 1000 watts. The
same considerations apply as for humidifiers, except that
larger models should be connected to individual or lightly
loaded branch circuits.

MICROWAVE OVEN
Microwave ovens have been perfected to the point
where they are now reliable and coming into widespread use.
They are supplied with cord and attachment plugs, operate on
120 volts, and consume from 1 kilowatts to 1.5 killowatts.
They must be used with grounding receptacles and are best
served by an individual 20-ampere branch circuit, or one that
has only additional light loads or loads that will probably not
operate at the same time as the oven. The attachment plug
and receptacle arrangement serves as the disconnecting
means.

318
 Glossary

accessible—1. As applied to wiring methods, capable of

being removed or exposed without damaging the building
structure or finish, or not permanently closed in by the
structure or finish of the building. 2. As applied to equip¬
ment, admitting close approach because not guarded by
locked doors, elevation or other effective means.
aggregate—Inert material mixed with cement and water to
produce concrete.
appliance—Utilization equipment, generally equipment
other than industrial, normally built in standardized sizes or
types and installed or connected as a unit to perform one or
more functions, such as clothes washing, air conditioning,
food mixing, deep frying, etc.
appliance, fixed—An appliance that is fastened or other¬
wise secured at a specific location.
appliance, portable—An appliance that is actually moved
or can easily be moved from one place to another in normal
use.
appliance, stationary—An appliance that is not easily
moved from one place to another in normal use.
approved—Acceptable to the authority enforcing the Na¬
tional Electrical Code.
attachment plug—A device that, upon insertion in a recep¬
tacle, established a connection between the conductors of

319
automatic—chase
the attached flexible cord and the conductors connected
permanently to the receptacle,
automatic—Self-acting, operating by its own mechanism
when actuated by some impersonal influence, such as a
change in current strength, pressure, temperature, or
mechanical configuration.
backfill—Loose earth placed outside foundation walls for
filling and grading.
bearing plate—Steel plate placed under one end of a beam
or truss for load distribution.
bearing wall—Wall supporting a load other than its own
weight.
bench mark—Point of reference from which measurements
are made.
bonding jumper—A reliable conductor used to insure the
required electrical conductivity between metal parts re¬
quired to be electrically connected,
branch circuit—That portion of a wiring system extending
beyond the final overcurrent device protecting the circuit,
branch circuit, appliance—A circuit supplying energy to
one or more outlets to which appliances are to be con¬
nected; such circuits have no permanently connected light¬
ing fixtures that are not a part of an appliance,
branch circuit, general-purpose—A branch circuit that
supplies a number of outlets for lighting and appliances,
branch circuit, individual—A branch circuit that supplies
only one piece of utilization equipment,
bridging—System of bracing between floor beams to distri¬
bute floor load.
building—A structure that stands alone or that is cut off
from adjoining structures by fire walls with all openings
therein protected by approved fire doors,
cabinet—An enclosure designed for either surface or flush
mounting and provided with a frame, mat, or trim in which
swinging doors are hung.
cavity wall—Wall built of solid masonry units arranged to
provide air space within the wall,
chase—Recess in inner face of masonry wall providing space
for pipes or ducts.

320
 circuit breaker—curtain wall

circuit breaker—A device designed to open and close a

circuit by nonautomatic means and to open the circuit
automatically on a predetermined overload of current with¬
out injury to itself when properly applied within its rating,
column—Vertical load-carrying member of a structural
frame.
concealed—Rendered inaccessible by the structure or finish
of the building. Wires in concealed raceways are consi¬
dered concealed, even though they may become accessible
by withdrawing them.
conductor, bare—A conductor having no covering or insula¬
tion whatsoever.
conductor, covered—A conductor having one or more
layers of nonconducting materials that are not recognized
as insulation under the National Electrical Code,
conductor, insulated—A conductor covered with material
recognized as insulation.
connector, pressure—A connector that establishes the
connection between two or more conductors or between
one or more conductors and a terminal by means of
mechanical pressure and without the use of solder,
continuous load—A load in which the maximum current is
expected to continue for 3 hours or more,
contour line—On a land map denoting elevations, a line
connecting points with the same elevation,
controller—A device, or group of devices, that serves to
govern in some predetermined manner, the electric power
delivered to the apparatus to which it is connected,
cooking unit, counter-mounted—An assembly of one or
more domestic surface heating elements for cooking pur¬
poses, designed to be flush mounted in, or supported by, a
counter and complete with internal wiring and inherent or
separately mounted controls.
crawl space—Shallow space between the first tier of beams
and the ground (no basement),
curtain wall—Nonbearing wall between piers or columns
for the enclosure of the structure; not supported at each
story.

321
demand factor—exposed

demand factor—In any system or part of a system, the ratio

of the maximum demand of the system, or part of the
system, to the total connected load of the system, or part
of the system under consideration,
disconnecting means—A device, a group of devices, or
other means whereby the conductors of a circuit can be
disconnected from their source of supply,
dry wall—Interior wall construction consisting of plaster
boards, wood paneling, or plywood nailed directly to the
studs without application of plaster,
duty, continuous—A requirement of service that demands
operation at a substantially constant load for an indefinitely
long time.
duty, intermittent—A requirement of service that de¬
mands operation for alternate intervals of (1) load and no
load, (2) load and rest or (3) load, no load and rest,
duty, periodic—A type of intermittent duty in which the
load conditions regularly recur,
duty, short-time—A requirement of service that demands
operations at loads and for intervals of time, both of which
may be subject to wide variation,
elevation—Drawing showing the projection of a building on
a vertical plane.
enclosed—Surrounded by a case that will prevent anyone
from accidentally contacting live parts,
equipment—A general term including material, fittings, de¬
vices, appliances, fixtures, apparatus, and the like used as
a part of, or in connection with, an electrical installation,
expansion bolt—Bolt with a casing arranged to wedge the
bolt into a masonry wall to provide an anchorage,
expansion joint—Joint between two adjoining concrete
members arranged to permit expansion and contraction
with changes in temperature.
exposed—1. As applied to live parts, that which a person
could inadvertently touch or approach nearer than a safe
distance. This term is applied to parts not suitably guarded,
isolated or insulated. 2. As applied to wiring method, not
concealed.

322
 externally operable—guarded

externally operable—Capable of being operated without

exposing the operator to contact with live parts,
facade—Main front of a building.
feeder—The conductors between the service equipment, or
the generator switchboard of an isolated plant, and the
branch-circuit overcurrent device,
fire stop—Incombustible filler material used to block interior
draft spaces.
fitting—An accessory such as a locknut, bushing, or other
part of a wiring system that is intended primarily to perform
a mechanical rather than an electrical function,
flashing—Strips of sheet metal bent into an angle between
the roof and wall to make a watertight joint,
footing—Structural unit used to distribute loads to the bear¬
ing materials.
frost line—Deepest level below grade to which frost penet¬
rates in a geographic area.
garage—A building or portion of a building in which one or
more self-propelled vehicles carrying volatile, flammable
liquid for fuel or power are kept; also, all that portion of a
building which is on or below the floor or floors in which
such vehicles are kept and which is not separated from
them by suitable cutoffs.
ground—A conducting connection, whether intentional or
accidental, between an electrical circuit or a piece of
equipment and earth or some other conducting body serv¬
ing in place of the earth.
grounded conductor—A conductor used to connect
equipment or the grounded circuit of a wiring system to a
grounding electrode or electrodes,
grounding conductor, main—In an ungrounded system,
the conductor connecting the equipment grounding con¬
ductor at the service to the grounding electrode,
grounding conductor, equipment—A conductor used to
connect the equipment being grounded to the service-
equipment enclosure.
guarded—Covered, shielded, fenced, enclosed, or other¬
wise protected by suitable covers or casings, barriers, rails

323
I-beam—location, wet

or screens, mats or platforms in order to prevent danger¬

ous contact or approach by persons or objects.
I-beam—Rolled steel beam or built-up beam of I-shaped
configuration.
Identified—Used in the Code to refer to a conductor or
terminal recognized as grounded.
incombustible material—Material that will not ignite or
actively support combustion in a surrounding temperature
of 1200 degrees Fahrenheit during an exposure of 5 mi¬
nutes; also material that will not melt when the tempera¬
ture of the material is maintained at 900 degrees
Fahrenheit for a period of at least 5 minutes.
isolated—Not readily accessible to persons unless special
means for access are used.
jamb—Upright member forming the side of a door or window
opening.
lally column—Compression member consisting of a steel
pipe filled with concrete under pressure.
laminated wood—Wood built up of plies or laminations that
have been joined either with glue or with mechanical fas¬
teners. Usually, the plies are too thick to be classified as
veneer, and the grain of all plies is parallel.
lighting outlet—An outlet intended for the direct connec¬
tion of a lamp holder, lighting fixture, or pendant cord
terminating in a lamp holder.
location, damp—A location subject to a moderate amount of
moisture, such as some basements, some bams, some
cold-storage warehouses, etc.
location, dry—A location not normally subject to dampness
or wetness. A location classified as dry may be temporarily
subject to dampness or wetness, as in the case of a building
under construction.
location, wet—A location subject to saturation with water or
other liquids, such as locations exposed to'weather, wash¬
rooms in garages, and similar locations. Installations that
are located underground or in concrete slabs, or masonry
in direct contact with the earth shall be considered wet
locations.

324
 low-energy power circuit—raceway

low-energy power circuit—A circuit that is not a remote-

control or signal circuit but whose power supply is limited in
accordance with the requirements of class 2 remote-
control circuits.
multioutlet assembly—A type of surface or flush raceway
designed to hold conductors and attachment plug recepta¬
cles that is assembled in the field or at the factory,
nonautomatic—Used to describe an action requiring per¬
sonal intervention for its control,
nonbearing wall—Wall that carries no load other than its
own weight.
outlet—In the wiring system a point at which current is taken
to supply utilization equipment,
outline lighting—An arrangement of incandescent lamps
or gaseous tubes to outline and call attention to certain
features such as the shape of a building or the decoration of
a window.
oven, wall-mounted—A domestic oven for cooling pur¬
poses designed for mounting into or onto a wall or other
surface.
panelboard—A single panel or group of panel units designed
for assembly in the form of a single panel; includes buses
and may come with or without switches and automatic
overcurrent protective devices for the control of light,
heat, or power circuits of small individual as well as aggre¬
gate capacity. It is designed to be placed in a cabinet or
cutout box placed in or against a wall or partition and
accessible only from the front,
pilaster—Flat square column attached to a wall and project¬
ing about a fifth of its width from the face of the wall,
plenum—Chamber or space forming a part of an air-
conditioning system.
precast concrete—Concrete units, such as piles or vaults,
cast away from the construction site and set in place,
qualified person—One familiar with the construction and
operation of the apparatus and the hazards involved,
raceway—Any channel designed expressly for holding
wires, cables or bus bars and used solely for this purpose.

325
rainproof—service-entrance conductors, underground system

rainproof—So constructed, protected, or treated as to pre¬

vent rain from interfering with successful operation of the
apparatus.
raintight—So constructed or protected that exposure to a
beating rain will not result in the entrance of water,
readily accessible—Capable of being reached quickly for
operation, renewal or inspections without requiring those
to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove
obstacles or resort to portable ladders, chairs, etc.
receptacle outlet—An outlet where one or more recepta¬
cles are installed.
receptacle outlet, convenience—A contact device instal¬
led at an outlet for the connection of an attachment plug,
remote-control circuit—Any electrical circuit that con¬
trols any other circuit through a relay or an equivalent
device.
riser—Upright member of stair extending from tread to
tread.
roughing in—Installation of all concealed electrical wiring;
includes all electrical work done before finishing,
sealed (hermetic-type) motor compressor—A mechani¬
cal compressor consisting of a compressor and a motor,
both of which are enclosed in the same sealed housing, with
no external shaft or shaft seals, the motor operating in the
refrigerant atmosphere.
service—The conductors and equipment used for delivering
energy from the electricity supply system to the wiring
system of the premises served,
service cable—The service conductors made up in the form
of a cable.
service conductors—The supply conductors that extend
from the street main or transformers to the service equip¬
ment of the premises being supplied,
service drop—The overhead service conductors from the
last pole, or other aerial support, to and including the
splices, if any, that connect to the service-entrance con¬
ductors at the building or other structure,
service-entrance conductors, underground sys¬
tem—The service conductors between the terminals of

326
 service equipment—switch, general-use snap

the service equipment and the point of connection to the

service lateral.
service equipment—The necessary equipment, usually
consisting of a circuit breaker, or switch and fuses and their
accessories located near the point of entrance of supply
conductors to a building and intended to constitute the main
control and means of cutoff for the supply to that building,
service lateral—The underground service conductors be¬
tween the street main, including any risers at a pole or
other structure or from transformers, and the first point of
connection to the service-entrance conductors in a termi¬
nal box, meter or other enclosure with adequate space,
inside or outside the building wall. Where there is no
terminal box, meter or other enclosure with adequate
space the point of connection shall be considered to be the
point of entrance of the service conductors into the build¬
ing.
service raceway—The rigid metal conduit, electrical metal¬
lic tubing or other raceway that encloses the service-
entrance conductors.
setting, circuit breaker—The value of the current at
which the circuit breaker is set to trip,
sheathing—First covering of boards or paneling nailed to
the outside of the wood studs of a frame building,
siding—Finishing material that is nailed to the sheathing of a
wood frame building and that forms the exposed surface,
signal circuit—Any electrical circuit supplying energy to an
appliance that gives a recognizable signal,
soffit—Underside of a stair, arch or cornice,
soleplate—Horizontal bottom member of wood stud parti¬
tion.
studs—Vertically set skeleton members of a partition or wall
to which lath is nailed.
switch, general-use—A switch intended for use in general
distribution and branch circuits. It is rated in amperes and is
capable of interrupting its rated voltage,
switch, general-use snap—A form of general-use switch
so constructed that it can be installed in flush device boxes

327
switch, AC general-use snap—thermal cutout

or on outlet covers, or otherwise used in conjunction with

wiring systems recognized by this Code,
switch, AC general-use snap—A form of general-use
snap switch suitable only for use on alternating-current
circuits and for controlling the following: (1) resistive and
inductive loads (including electric discharge lamps) not
exceeding the ampere rating at the voltage involved, (2)
tungsten-filament lamp loads not exceeding eighty percent
of the ampere rating of the switches at the rated voltage,
switch, AC-DC general-use snap—A form of general use
snap switch suitable for use on either direct- or
alternating-current circuits and for controlling the follow¬
ing: (1) resistive loads not exceeding the ampere rating at
the voltage involved, (2) inductive loads not exceeding
one-half the ampere rating at the voltage involved, except
that switches having a marked horsepower rating are suit¬
able for controlling motors not exceeding the horsepower
rating of the switch at the voltage involved and (3)
tungsten-filament lamp loads not exceeding the ampere
rating at 125 volts, when marked with the letter T.
switch, isolating—A switch intended for isolating an elec¬
tric circuit from the source of power. It has no interrupting
rating and is intended to be operated only after the circuit
has been opened by some other means,
switch, motor-circuit—A switch, rated in horsepower,
capable of interrupting the maximum operating overload
current of a motor having the same horsepower rating as
the switch at the rated voltage,
switchboard—A large single panel, frame or assembly of
panels having switches and overcurrent protective de¬
vices, buses and usually instruments, mounted on the face
or back or both. Switchboards are generally accessible
from the rear as well as from the front and are not intended
to be installed in cabinets.
thermal cutout—An overcurrent protective device contain¬
ing a heater element in addition to and affecting a renewable
fusible member which opens the circuit. It is not designed
to interrupt short-circuit currents.

328
thermally protected—web

thermally protected—As applied to motors refers to the

words thermally protected appearing on the nameplate of a
motor or motor-compressor and means that the motor is
provided with a thermal protector,
thermal protector—As applied to motors a protective de¬
vice that is assembled as an integral part of a motor or
motor-compressor and that, when properly applied, pro¬
tects the motor against dangerous overheating due to over¬
load and failure to start.
trusses—Framed structural pieces consisting of triangles in
a single plane for supporting loads over spans,
utilization equipment—Equipment that utilizes electric
energy for mechanical, chemical, heating, lighting or other
similar useful purposes.
ventilated—Provided with a means to permit circulation of
air sufficient to remove an excess of heat fumes or vapors,
voltage—The greatest root-mean-square (RMS), or effec¬
tive, difference of potential between any two conductors of
the circuit concerned.
voltage to ground—In grounded circuits the voltage bet¬
ween the given conductor and that point or conductor of the
circuit which is grounded; in ungrounded circuits the
greatest voltage between the given conductor and any
other conductor of the circuit,
watertight—So constructed that moisture will not enter the
enclosing case or housing.
weatherproof—So constructed or protected that exposure
to the weather will not interfere with successful operation,
web—Central portion of an I-beam.

329
Appendix I
Manufacturers of
Residential Electrical Products

This section lists the manufacturers of electrical equipment

that is most often used in residential and farm wiring systems.
Most of these manufacturers offer catalogs and other design
data for their products—usually at no charge.
The homeowner and farmer will find the catalogs ex¬
tremely helpful in selecting the proper equipment for a given
project. Often the catalogs will contain data showing how to
properly design an electrical system involving their products,
and finally how to best install the system.
To use this section look under the heading material you
wish to purchase. For example, suppose you would like in¬
formation on the various outlet boxes available to install elec¬
trical wiring in an existing home. Look under the heading of
Boxes & Enclosures, find the address of one or more manufac¬
turers nearest you and write for data. After receiving the
information you will be in a position to select the proper type
for your situation by studying the description.

330
ALARMS, SIGNALS & SYSTEMS ■ Bryant Electric
■ Air King Corp. Div: Westinghouse Electric
3050 N. Rockwell Ave. 1421 State St.
Chicago, IL 60618 Bridgeport, CT 06602
■ Artolier Lighting & Sound ■ Central Electric Products, Inc.
Div: Emerson Electric Co. 1900 2nd Ave.
141 Lanza Ave. Kearney, NE 68847
Garfield, NJ 07026 ■ Eagle Electric Mfg. Co., Inc.
■ Auth Electric Co., Inc. 23-10 Bridge Plaza So.
Sub: Webster Electric Co. Long Island City, NY 11101
505 Acorn St. ■ Harvey Hubbell Inc.
Deer Park, NY 11729 Div: Hubbell Pyle National
■ Autocall 1334 N. Kostner Ave.
Div: Federal Sign & Signal Corp Chicago, IL 60651
Tucker Ave. ■ Pass & Seymour, Inc.
Shelby, OH 44875 50 Boyd Ave.
■ Broan Mfg. Co. Syracuse, NY 13209
926 W. State St. ■ Raco
Hardford, WI 53027 Div: All-Steel Equipment, Inc.
■ Eagle Electric Mfg. Co., Inc. P.O. Box 871
23-10 Bridge Plaza So. Aurora, IL 60507
Long Island City, NY 11101 ■ Stonco Lighting
■ Lutron Electronics Co., Inc. Div: Keene Corp.
Sutter Rd. 2345 Vauxhall Rd.
Coopersburg, PA 18036 Union, NJ 07083

■ Nutone ■ Wiremold Co.

Div: Scovill Mfg. Co. West Hartford, CT 06110
Madison & Redbank Rds.
Cincinnati, OH 45227 CIRCUIT BREAKERS & FUSES
■ Sierra Electric ■ Bussmann Mfg.
Div: Sola Basic Industries Div: McGraw-Edison Co.
15100 S. Figueroa St. University at Jefferson
Gardena, CA 90247 St. Louis, MO 63107
■ Thomas Industries, Inc. ■ Cutler-Hammer Inc.
Div: Benjamin Products 4201 N. 27th St.
207 E. Broadway Milwaukee, WI 53216
Louisville, KY 40202 ■ General Electric Co.
Circuit Protective Devices
Products Dept.
BOXES & ENCLOSURES 41 Woodford Ave.
■ Arrow-Hart, Inc. Plainville, CT 06062
Murray Div. ■ Square D Co.
103 Hawthorn St. Executive Plaza
Hartford, CT 06106 Park Ridge, IL 60068

331
■ Westinghouse Talk-A*Phone Co.
Div: Distribution Apparatus 5013 N. Kedzie Ave.
P.0. Box 341 Chicago, IL 60625
Bloomington, IN 47401 Webster Electric Co. Inc.
Sub: Sta-Rite Industries
1900 Clark St.
Racine, WI 53403
COMMUNICATIONS
■ Air King Corp.
3050 N. Rockwell Ave.
CONDUIT & RACEWAYS
Chicago, IL 60618
■ General Electric Co.
■ Altec
Distributioi** Assemblies
Div. LTV Ling Altec Inc.
Products Dept.
1515 S. Manchester Ave,
41 Woodford Ave.
Anaheim, CA 92803
Plainfille, CT 06062
■ Artolier Lighting & Sound
■ Hatfield Wire & Cable
Div: Emerson Electric Co.
Div: Continental Copper &
141 Lanza Ave.
Steel Ind. Inc.
Garfield, NJ 07026
360 Hurst St., Box 558
Auth Electric Co. Inc. Linden, NJ 07036
Sub: Webster Electric Co.
Southwire Co.
505 Acorn St.
Fertilla St.
Deer Park, NY 11729
Carrollton, GA 30117
Bogen
Div: Lear Siegler, Inc, Triangle Conduit & Cable Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 500 Sub: Triangle Industries, Inc.
P.O. Box 711
Paramus, NJ 07652
New Brunswick, NJ 08903
Couch, S.H.
Div: ESB Inc. Wheatland Tube Co.
Public Ledger Bldg.
3 Arlington St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
N. Quincy, MA 02171
Executone Inc.
29-10 Thomson Ave. CONNECTING WIRE &
Long Island City, NY 11101 CABLE SPLICING DEVICES
Hemco Inc. ■ Buchanan Electrical Products Corp.
151-51 23 Ave. Sub: Amerace Esna Corp.
Whitestone, NY 11357 1065 Floral Ave.
Music & Sound Inc. Union, NJ 07083
2961 Congressman Ln. ■ Burndy Corp.
Dallas, TX 75220 Richards Ave.
Nutone Norwalk, CT 06856
Div: Scovill Mfg. Co. ■ 3M Co.
Madison & Redbank Rds. 3-M Center
Cincinnati, OH 45227 St. Paul, MN 55101

332
FASTENERS, HANGERS, The Singer Co.
CLAMPS, TIES, ETC. Div: Climate Control
62 Columbus St
■ Ideal Industries, Inc.
Auburn, NY 13021
5224 Becker PI.
Sycamore, IL 60178 LIGHT SOURCES
■ Rawplug Co., Inc., The ■ GTE Sylvania Inc.
200 Petersville Rd. 100 Endicott St.
New Rochelle, NY 10802 Danvers, MA 01923
■ Thomas & Betts Co., The ■ General Electric Co.
Div: Thomas & Betts Corp. Lamp Marketing Dept.
36 Butler St. Nela Park
Elizabeth, NJ 07207 Cleveland, OH 44112
FITTINGS, CONDUIT & CABLE Westinghouse
■ Appleton Electric Co. Div: Lamp
1701 Wellington Ave. 1 Westinghouse Plaza
Chicago, IL 60657 Bloomfield, NJ 07950
■ Raco
Div: All-Steel Equipment, Inc.
LIGHTING FIXTURES,
P.O. Box 871
Aurora, IL 60507 FLUORESCENT INDOORS
Thomas & Betts Co., The ■ Markstone Mfg. Co.
Div. Thomas & Betts Corp. Sub: Lightron Corp.
36 Butler St. 1240 N. Homan Ave.
Elizabeth, NJ 07207 Chicago, IL 60651
Triangle Conduit & Cable Co., Inc. ■ Progress Lighting
Sub: Triangle Industries, Inc. Div: LCA Corp.
P.O. Box 711 Erie Ave. & G St.
New Brunswick, NJ 08903 Philadelphia, PA 19134
Wheatland Tube Co. ■ Swivelier Co., Inc.
Public Ledger Bldg. 33 Rt. 304
Philadelphia, PA 19106 Nanuet, NY 10954
Thomas Industries, Inc.
HEATING EQUIPMENT & CONTROLS
Div: Residential Lighting
■ Chromalox Comfort Cond. 207 E. Broadway
Div: Emerson Electric Co. Louisville, KY 40202
8100 Florissant
St. Louis, MO 63136 SERVICE-ENTRANCE EQUIPMENT
■ General Electric Co. ■ Bryant Electric
Industrial Heating Business Dept. Div: Westinghouse Electric
1 Progress Rd. 1421 State St.
Shelbyville, IN 46176 Bridgeport, CT 06602
Markel Electric Prods. Inc. ■ Cutler-Hammer Inc.
145 Seneca St 4201 N. 27th St.
Buffalo, NY 14203 Milwaukee, WI 53216

333
 General Electric Co. Sierra Electric
Circuit Protective Devices Div: Sola Basic Industries
Prod. Dept. 15100 S. Figueroa St
41 Woodford Ave. Gardena, CA 90248
Plainville, CT 06062 Slater Electric Inc.
I-T-E Imperial Corp. 45 Sea Cliff Ave.
233 E. Lancaster Ave. Glen Cove, NY 11542
Ardmore, PA 19003 Touch-Plate Electro Sys.
■ Midwest Electric Mfg. Corp. Sub: Circle F Industries
Sub: Crouse-Hinds Co. 16530 Garfield Ave.
1639 W. Walnut St. Paramount, CA 90723
Chicago, IL 60612 Wiremold Co., The
■ Square D Co. West Hartford, CT 06110
Executive Plaza
Park Ridge, IL 60068
WIRE & CABLE
■ Westinghouse
Div: Distribution Control Equip. ■ Hatfield Wire & Cable
Beaver, PA 15009 Div: Continental Copper
& Steel Inc. Inc.
360 Hurst St. Box 558
SWITCHES,
Linden, NJ 07036
RECEPTACLES & PLATES
■ Phelps Dodge Cable & Wire Co.
■ Arrow-Hart, Inc. Div: Phelps Dodge Industries, Inc.
103 Hawthorn St.
Foot of Point St.
Hartford, CT 06106 Yonkers, NY 10702
■ Bryant Electric
Triangle Conduit & Cable Co., Inc.
Div: Westinghouse Electric
Sub: Triangle Industries, Inc.
1421 State St.
P.O. Box 711
Bridgeport, CT 06602
New Brunswick, NJ 08903
Circle F Industries
720 Monmouth St.
Trenton, NJ 08604 ELECTRICIANS’ HAND TOOLS
General Electric Co. ■ Atkins Saw
General Purpose Control Div: Nicholson File Co.
Prod. Dept. P.O. Box 958
P.O. Box 913 Greenville, MS 38701
Bloomington, IL 61701 ■ Benfield Benders
Harvey Hubbell Inc. Appleton Electric Co.
Div: Wiring Device Plastic Wire & Cable Corp.
State St. 1701 Wellington Ave.
Bridgeport, CT 06602 Chicago, IL 60657
Pass & Seymour, Inc. Holub Industries, Inc.
50 Boyd Ave. 443 Elm St.
Syracuse, NY 13209 Sycamore, IL 60178

334
 Ideal Industries, Inc. General Electric Co.
5224 Becker PI. Utility & Process Automatic
Sycamore, IL 60178 Products Dept.
■ Klein & Sons Inc., Mathias 40 Federal St.
7200 McCormick Rd. Lynn MA 01910
Chicago, IL 60645 Holub Industries, Inc.
443 Elm St.
TEST & MEASURING DEVICES Sycamore, IL 60178
■ Amprobe Instrument Sperry Instrument Inc., A.W,
Div. SOS Consolidated Inc. 245 Marcus PI.
630 Merrick Rd. Hauppauge, NY 11787
Lynbrook, NY 11563 Westinghouse
■ Associated Research Inc. Div: Electronic Tube
3785 W. Belmont Ave. P.O. Box 284
Chicago, IL 60618 Elmira, NY 14902
Biddle Co., James G.
Township Line & Jolly Roads
Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462

335
Appendix I!
Wiring Tables

The wiring tables contained herein will aid you in laying out
and installing many electrical circuits around the home and
farm. For example, Table II-1 gives the recommended wire
sizes for various loads anticipated on a circuit while other
tables include those for calculating voltage drop.

336
 Appendix II Table 1

AMPERE RATING
Type RH, Type RHH,
Type THWN, THHN,
T, TW RHW, THW XHHW
AWG/MCM (60°C Wire) (75°C Wire) (90°C Wire)
14 15 15 15
12 ! 20 20 20
10 30 30 30
8 40 45 50
6 55 65 70
4 70 85 90
3 80 100 105
2 95 115 120
1 110 130 140
0 125 150 155
00 145 175 185
000 165 200 210
0000 195 230 235
250M 215 255 270
300M 240 285 300
350M 260 310 325
400M 280 335 360
500M 320 380 405
600M 355 420 455
700M 385 460 490
750M 400 475 500
800M 410 490 515
90QM 435 520 555
1000M 455 545 585

337
 Appendix II Table 2 Electrical Symbols & Abbreviations

GENERAL OUTLETS
CEILING WALL

o -o Outlet
(D -® Blanked outlet
® Drop cord
Electrical outlet for use only when circle used alone
® -© might be confused with columns, plumbing symbols,
etc.
© -© Fan outlet
© ~© Junction box
© -© Junction box
Lamp holder
©oS -©,s Lamp holder with pull switch
© -©
Pull switch
© -© Outlet for vapor discharge lamp
Exit light outlet
© -© Clock outlet (specify voltage)

CONVENIENCE OUTLETS

=€> Duplex convenience outlet

^"©>,3 Convenience,outletiother than dupfex
1 = single, 3 - triplex, etc.
=©wp Weatherproof convenience outlet
Range outlet
^©S Switch and convenience outlet
Radio and convenience outlet
Special purpose outlet, (des in spec)
© Floor outlet
SWITCH OUTLETS

s Single pole switch

S* Double pole switch
Ss Three-way switch
s« Four-way switch
S0 Automatic door switch
sE Electrolier switch
SK Key operated switch
Sp Switch and pilot lamp
Circuit breaker
S»c« Weatherproof circuit breaker
^MC Momentary contact switch
Remote control switch
S>w> Weatherproof switch
S, Fused switch
s
°wr Weatherproof fused switch

SPECIAL OUTLETS

O o.b.c.Hc Any standard symbol as given above with the addition

~©o,b,c,etc of a lower case subscript letter may be used to desig-
So,b,c,*tc nate some special variation of standard equipment of
particular interest in a specific set of architectural plans.
When used they must be listed in the key of symbols on
each drawing and if necessary further described in the
specifications.

338
 Appendix II Table 2 Electrical Symbols & Abbreviation (continued)

PANELS, CIRCUITS & MISCELLANEOUS

m
Lighting panel
ESS Power panel
—
Branch circuit concealed in ceiling or wall
— Branch circuit concealed in floor
— Branch circuit exposed
—- Home run to panelboard. Indicate number of circuits by
number of arrows. Any circuit without further designa¬
tion indicates a two-wire circuit. For a greater number of
wires indicate as follows: (3 wires), (4 wires), etc.
Feeders. Use heavy lines and designate by number
corresponding to (isting in feeder schedule.
a Underfloor duct and Junction box, triple system.
For double or single systems eliminate one or two lines.
This symbol is equally adaptable to auxiliary system layouts
© Generator
Motor
© Instrument
© Power transformer (Or draw to scale)
tsi Controller
Isolating switch
□*
AUXILIARY SYSTEMS

□ Pushbutton
o Buzzer
Up Bell
*o Annunciator
W Outside telephone
W Interconnecting telephone
W Telephone switchboard
© Bell ringing transformer
0 Electric door opener
Fire alarm bell
m Fire alarm station
0D City fire alarm station
Ha] Fire alarm central station
[El] Automatic fire alarm device
Watchman s station
flwll Watchman's central station
0 Horn
0 Nurse’s signal plug
Maid's signal plug
0 Radio outlet
pen Signal central station
□ Interconnection box
mi Battery
_ . Auxiliary system circuits. Any line without further desig-
nation indicates a 2-wire system. For a greater number
of wires designate with numerals in manner similar
to—12-No. 18 W-%" C., or designate by number cor¬
responding to listing in schedule
□o,b. Special auxiliary outlets. Subscript letters refer to notes
on plans or detailed description in specifications.

339
 !
PLUG
Appendix II Table 3
60 AMPERE

LU
_J
o
<
H
CL
LU
o
LU
CC

/ o \ ©Tx\
o » )
3
_J
CL ©[X v>y
50 AMPERE

o • a.
>n s o
>n <b r- —gin
LU
_J /o <=» \ /f=\
o
< D j D -
H
Q.
LU
V CD /
x-'CL
v
c-r3 y
—■'"cr ©
o o . a
LU 8 2
CC Jr> <b 28

( o \ /CX\ /T<\
o
3
©. ©© (£)
30 AMPERE

a.
o .o . a.
n ° a n
CM in r~ ° s
— c*>
LU /''TX
-j
o /o P \
<
H
CL
LU
o
© v c—1 y)
(D
© ©
LU g 1 , qc
CC
CM WD °8

O
3
_J
CL © 0.
© © © Ql 0. C.
r©
a.
20 AMPERE

O O o O
CM CM CM CM 8
CM •n <b 6
LU
_J
o /S2\ /TX
<
H
0.
LU © O
ID J)

cr
© © cr a
CDJ
\>J
)

v— cr
o
o
LU
CM
s s 8 CM
CC r-
CM in ib 1 o

CD
3
_i
0.
© © © © © 0.
15 AMPERE

0. CL
in •n a. a
<£) >n .r
CM in ib
LU
_l
o
<
h-
0.
\D= j |© /o

Wa
LU
o
LU
CC
a. CL
1 iin
<£)
J)
a;
<s

in >
»- >
m
CM
CM >
8
CM
* i * O
in
CM
® >
s
<N
*
CO >
o
s
°> > 2 in o
CM in
CM

3UIM-6 3~10d*2 ONIONROdO 3UIM-E SlOd'Z

340
 /a\
7? • 1" - 1
\i</ VJ©
W
. CL . CL i CL
^ o go O
- <C - <0 •8
c° >
D 0* o 0-,
T Dy
\ 1-3 / \ a /
y' \. N v'

• a . a
go O
- <£> si

^Tjo
• IH
(^)
\><y \. x >/
©
. CL . CL . CL . CL
-O <T O go O © O
- »Tl — go - go — go

/HT\
©©
'6 Qv a Q>

© ViV <V>
, cr . cr , a . cr
-o * o go O © 2
- gO — vA - go — go

/-- v
4l©
* h
(^5)
© w
CL . CL . a , CL
1O go O © o
-n 5S -n — f*0
,— x*\
/ a \

(©)
XjZy
cr
1o
—n
Q . cz
*8
D Q-
vj©
. ct
go O
—o
[J
V'o/
VNS
, a
© o
— ro
=)

(®) (^)
V47
^^ a
© CL
\*l©
a ^ <L
o o
8 eg 8
©
5 go

/>OA

(S) (®) (®)

Vo y
©
— cr —^ a ^^ a
o
o
Cg
o
<\i eg 8
go ©

© @ \*iy @ CL
CL CL CL
«£) go go
sf)
go ©

/£o«N 0>\
© a
A
fD 0)
cr
wo
°^D
\ a y

cr
go

go
V C3 /
a
go
©
5

z^ > >
lO o £ ^> ® > CO ^ >
- -®p:g
" si
eg
-$o
CO CO ” *1 eg uo
i- eg ss S|
eg
CO Q
~*Sb n«? 8«si
SNiQNnoas aaiM-f aiod-e 3aiM-f 30Od-f
3UIAA E BlOd E

341
 Appendix III
Electrical Formulas
Several electrical formulas are contained herein to aid you in
solving problems that might be encountered. Since inexpen¬
sive electronic calculators are now commonplace around
every home and farm these examples have been set up for use
with such devices.

OHM’S LAW
Strickly speaking Ohms’ law only applies to DC (direct
current) circuits; however, in applications around the home
and farm it can be applied to AC (alternating current) circuits
as well. Ohm’s law states that the voltage across a DC circuit
is equal to the current time the resistance. That is,

E =IR

whereE is units volts, / is in units of amperes and/? is in units

of ohms.

Example 1
Find the resistance when the current and voltage are
known. The voltage is 120 volts and the current is 2 amperes.
Hence,

343
 1. Key in 120.
2. Press the division key.
3. Key in 2.
4. Press equals key.
5. Read answer—60 ohms.

Example 2
Find the current when the resistance and voltage are
known. The voltage is 240 volts and the resistance is 25
ohms. Hence,

1. Key in 240.
2. Press the division key.
3. Key in 25.
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—9.6 amperes.

Example 3
Find the voltage when the resistance and current are
known. The resistance is 10 ohms and the current is 1.2
amperes, Hence,

1. Key in 10.
2. Press the multiplication key.
3. Key in 1.2.
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—12 volts.

POWER FORMULA
The formula for determining the DC power of an electri¬
cal circuit is calculated by multiplying the voltage across the
circuit times the current. That is,

P = El

where P is in units of watts, E is in units of volts and I is in

units of amperes.
From Ohm’s law we know that the voltage is equal to the
current times the resistance, and that current or resistance is

344
equal to the voltage divided by the other. It follows then that
the voltage or current term in the above equation can be
substituted with an equivalent expression, such as

P = E(E/R)
= E2/R
or
P = (IR)I
— I2R

In determining the power consumed by an AC circuit where

the load is purely resistive, such as lamps and heating ele¬
ments, this formula holds true; however, for applications
where the load is inductive or capacitive a power factor must
be introduced. Usually this number is stamped on the name
plate of the device, such as a motor. Simply multiply the above
equations by this factor. It is never greater than one and
usually less.

Example 1
Find the current consumed of a lamp when the power and
voltage are known. The power is 100 watts and the voltage is
120 volts. Hence,

1. Key in 100.
2. Press the division key.
3. Key in 120.
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—0.833...amperes.

Example 2
Find the power consumed when the voltage and current
are known. The voltage is 24 volts and the current 1.5 am¬
peres. Hence,

1. Key in 24.
2. Press the multiplication key.
3. Key in 1.5.

345
 4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—36 watts.

Example 3
Find the voltage required when the power and current
are known. The power is 500 watts and the current is 2
amperes. Hence,

1. Key in 500.
2. Press the division key.
3. Key in 2.
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—250 volts.

Example 4
Find the power consumed when the voltage and resis¬
tance are known. The voltage is 120 volts and the resistance
is 100 ohms. Hence,

1. Key in 120.
2. Press the x1 2 3 4 5 6 key.
3. Press the division key.
4. Key in 100.
5. Press the equals key.
6. Read answer—144 watts.

Example 5
Find the power when the current and resistance are
known. The current is 2 amperes and the resistance is 150
ohms. Hence,

1. Key in 2.
2. Press the x2 key.
3. Press the multiplication key.
4. Key in 150.
5. Press the equals key.
6. Read answer—600 watts.

346
Fig. 111-1. Typical AC wave. The type of wave is in the form of a sine wave. The
RMS value is 0.707 of the peak value. The peak-to-peak value is twice that of the
peak value.

RMS VERSUS PEAK VALUE

AC voltage as its name implies is alternating current,
alternating around zero or ground. Household current, 120
volts, is actually an effective value of the voltage present at
each outlet. The peak value is around 169 volts. RMS, or root
mean square, is 0.707 of the peak value. Refer to Fig. III-l for
a drawing of a typical AC wave.

Example 1
Find the RMS value of an AC voltage peak. The peak
value of the alternating current is 100 volts. Hence,

1. Key in 100.
2. Press the multiplication key.
3. Key in .707 (0.707).
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—70.7 volts.

347
Example 2
Find the peak value of an AC voltage. The RMS value is
240 volts. Hence,
1. Key in 240.
2. Press the division key.
3. Key in .707 (0.707).
4. Press the equals key.
5. Read answer—339.46 volts.

348
 Appendix IV
Lamp Data

The following listings are furnished by General Electric Com¬

pany and contain data on electric lamps that are commonly
used in the home and around the farm. Lamps in each group
are listed in order of wattage, bulb size, voltage, description,
approximate life, and the approximate initial lumens. The
latter is necessary when using the lumens-per-square-foot
method of calculating the recommended illumination levels in
various areas as described in Chapter 12.
Besides those listed herein General Electric makes
thousands of other types of lamps for specific lighting applica¬
tions. For further information, consult your lamp supplier or
write directly to General Electric, NelaPark, Cleveland, Ohio
44112.
Please note that these lamps will operate in any position
except as noted in the tables. Also bear in mind that the prices
listed will probably change by the time this goes to press, so
verify them before ordering.

349
 w •
O • 9 o o> LD o O O o o O o O
. CO v— CM M- CM CO ID « ' CD
CM CM CM CM CM CM
CM *
<- 3

5 « O
o O o O O O O O o O O o O O O
Ig’ o § o 8 o O 8 8 O O O o
ID
o
LD
o o O
1/5
o
ID
o
LD
o
ID
ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
<r"

—»O —i -

iS is is is
so-i CO CO CO CO NT NT CO cb CO CO CO CO CO CO
CO CO nT nT nT NT

c c
a> a>
E CO < < < < <
05 05

C-9
C-9

C-9

C-9

C-9
05 05

C-9
r*- r- Op
C-9
C-9

C-9

(0 © r*- a>
iIQ 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6

o o o o o O o o o O o O NT NT o O O o O o
H v CNJ CNJ CM CM CM CM CO CO CM CM CO CO CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
(OiO *- N” •“ N“

cc cc CC CC CC CC OC
SC
< < < < < < © © "o
—1 —1 _l —1 _1 > U_1 > SC ©
Li- Li_ Li- Ll. Li- Li- o CL
© © © © ©
CL NT
NT Q.
b o O o CM
z o O o o 05 NT CM
21 © NT
o © © © © CM ©
© >
h- © Q o Q © o © > > ©
Q. > > > © >
© © _
INCANDESCENT LAMPS

cc 1 1 1 1 © •| Q © Q > Q Ed
© © © © © ©
O © 2 n LU ^ LU O LU
CD © -O o SZ IS. 6 sz O ° sc o sc
o sz si n SC
LU © © E c © <u OC Q o cc o
© © 85 o <
Q < © § § 5 e © < Q < © Q <
o o o Q a Q © S
X i D
15
c/> X X x OS Q 5 1 2
© © © © © 1 1* ©
"© 16 l i i O) 1 LU 1 5 uj
© © C ~o >, >> >> >s © 1 ^
to to o © © © © © © © © ©O |o c 1 o © oo
d s:
>% SZ
o
©
a a. CL
©
Q.
© sz 3 £ ^ CC © CC o
D a> oc
o $ u § u < o CO CO CO o 05 o co a. O is. 6 cc a. CC > CL

o> a> o> o> o CD CO ID ID CM <N CM CM CM CM

g ^ ® 05 00 05 CM CM ID
CD r- ID CD CD CO 05 ID ID ID ID ID
o CM CM '
I-3*

ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID in ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID
« CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM cm :
o ID ID ID ID ID ID ID
ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ib ID IO IO j
>

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 ;
CL CL 0. CL CL CL CL 0. o- Q- 0- i
•
* sc
■g CL a. 0L
a NT NT NT NT
CM CM CM CM
at
c U-
X
•
■g
u. u.
o U. o o o jj*
o 5 1
n "v. D is! P>s — s. CM
o
E 5 5 £ < < CD CD CD 00 ID ID o o m o 9 CC CC >
N
u. u. U. u. u_ Ll- 5 5 5 O O O O < < < < <
ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID ID to
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

€ F F
© P o
C X C X) Id
CD © © © ©
CO
o 2 o
(0
◄
1-
1-
< ;£
Bulb

G-25

G-40

CO
A-19

CO
F-10

F-15

$
31
ID 6 6
N

350
 All FLAIR Decorative Lamps are individually packaged and price marked, and are available in a 12-pack reshippable specialty pack.
•

00 —
.48

.64

.64

.64

.64

.64

.64

;
.64

.64

.64

! <q 1 m m ! 10 i in
« in in ! in j m
1 1 1 1 ! : “> I in ( in
;

1 J ; i , in m m
1 CM CM CM CM
130

130

130

130

130

130

130

130

130

0C1

130

in
130

in ! in
2
1 I- 1-=-
2 5 <
2 2 5 1
r°“ i a. j a. ! Q. , a.
1* sc 1 *
Ol CL a.
^s- ! j
CM CM CM 1 CM
.
-J CO
UL o O DC t
o £ h- h*
N h-
S
DC DC DC DC DC DC
a O o c ! DC
o O a h- o O »— O o >
\ N N \ < CD o DC
O) o> a> o> o> O) O) o> o> S> O) s? !N
z Z z Z
N S s
2 < <
in
<
in
<
in
<
in
<
in
<
m 2 2 |2 <
in
<1 < < <
m m in in
A[ CM PM CM CM PM PM CM CM CM CM PM CM PM

351
 INCANDESCENT LAMPS

352
Approx. DESCRIPTION Approx. Approx.
Bulb Base Lamp Ordering Code Volts List Filament
Design Hours Initial

Co a. O
2 0-i
Price

•D Ol>
Life Lumens

CV
M
%
<
i-
t-
C

©J
O
o
c
3
“O
05
CO
o
A-21 AMedium

CN
o
25A21/RFL $1.87 Reflector Sign—Light Inside
:

C-7A 2500
Frosted

CO
CM
ID
O
(G
CO
O
CM
©
CD
S.C.Bay.

6
LO
CO
1 2.59 | Clear—Railway Light Signal (69)
:

1000

CO

6 CO
CO
c
O
■O
CD
o
CM
O o
LO
o

25S6 115-125 # Clear—High Intensity Indi¬

f

C-7A
cator. ANSLDVN (16)

CM
CM
S-11 25S11/2C 115-125 'S Clear—Medical Spotlight C-7A 500

h-
CM
ID
000 L

CM
CD
ID
Intermed.
CM

Clear—Showcase

to (
►“ h”
0001

CM
ID
CD co
CM
a.
*
a.
5
CM
o ©
00 O) o>
00 o> o>
CM
o O o
st

6 6
CO 00
ID
1

Clear—Showcase. 12-Pack 244

PRICE MARKED

CD
ID

25T6’/r 125-130 1.19 1 Clear—Showcase 1000 244

»
CM
ID
CO
CM
o
CD
6 6
CO CO
ID
is
CM
o

1.12 [ Inside Frosted—Showcase 1000

CM
ID
is!
CD
ID

125-130 1[ 1.35 Inside Frosted—Showcase C-8 1000 240

CM
CO

ID
h- K h
o
u. u. O
CM
o
CD
o o O o
6
00
LD
;

D.C.Bay. 1.42 Clear—Appliance—Scale 1000 244

Illuminator

St

CM
ID
CD
a
o

H
CD
o
6
CO
ID

125-130 1.70 Clear—Appliance—Scale

:

1000 244
Illuminator
0001

CM
{2
O
U.
CM

ID
o
CD
o
*

6
00
ID

1.66 Inside Frosted—Appliance— 240

Scale Illuminator

O
O

CM
ID
{2
u.
CO
o
LD

125-130 1.98 | Inside Frosted—Appliance- C-8 1000 ~ 240

Scale Illuminator

1—
ID

00
CD
CM

Cand. 25T8C 115-125 1 Clear—Appliance C-7A (63)

T

(
ID
r*
CD
o O
r-
<
CM
5s

6
CD
CD

D.C.Bay. 25T8DC 115-125 | Clear—Home and Industrial 240

Appliance

ID
CM
ID
CD
o>
CM
o
CM

25T8DC/PM Clear—Appliance. Carded C-7A (63) 240

PRICE MARKED
—

*3
353
 x — c
I
o .5 £ O-i
Si
|l I CM CM 1

O : O
O o
|!* O I o
£x' CM CM

lO -

CO CO

c c
Q) O)
< <
E w r-~-
03 0)
6 6
■d d) > O O
CD CD
(/)aO
“D ~0
03 0
</) to
O O
Li_ Li.
0) 0
X> X)
(0 to
_c _C
CO 4_,
Q. _c .c
CD CD
_J _i ,
1 1
\_ 1
o o
o o
O _0 _0 1
CO 0 0
ac CL

<
o ; ^ a> CO
O)
CM
CO
CM

in
CM
*—
o in O
> CO
T~_ ,

■§o

o
a.
p
25 WATTS (Continued)

0)
t
<
$
s

354
 6
CO
i£
o
CO
5
CO
CO
O
O
DC.Bay.
00S

in
CO
O
I Clear—Medical Spotlight.

CM
CO
f
I 500

r.
1 Silvered Bowl
I

O X
6 o

DO
Q
CO
o
L30

CO
co
o
115-125

CNJ
^r
Clear—Lumillne

00
1500

r
c
u
L30/IF 1 cr___ i i i.

o
nrr

■N
moiue rrubieu—Lumiune

DO
CM
to
1500 to
9se
L30/W

o
115-125

CNJ
NT
White—Lumiline

6 J> 6
co
r- r-
CN
-
c

i.son

P”
h
CO
S.C.Pref. 30S11/4SCP 2.70

CNJ
o
CNJ
Clear—Photo-micrographic.

2s
•

(A) ;
C-6 ; 500
Source WxH: 2.1x1 9mm.
Filament ’/n" max. from end of
bulb (31,76)
German

CO
30S11/10 2.59

CNJ
o
Clear—Instrument. Source

CNJ
is!
in
O

Cand. C-6
WxH: 3.2x1 Omm (31)
DC.Bay.

CO
CNJ
r-
30S11/100

O)
CNJ
O
Clear—Train Marker (57)

<

6
CNJ
S
IT
c
c

—
OO
Disc i-

CO
o
L30/W
O

3.44

CNJ
White—Lumiline
•—
IT
c
c

C-8

h
DC.Bay.

CO
30S11DC

CO
CO
CNJ
Clear—Train Marker (57)
CNJ
C"
IT
c

C-7A 500

r-
in
30S11DC

CO
CO
CNJ
o o
Clear—Train Marker Control
CNJ
•
*

C-7A
•

500
Stand (57)

r~■
■

o
n
o
o
o
5
<
P
C/>
A-21

o>
00
3-Contact 30/100/W 12PKPM 120
CD
O
in

Soft-White—3-Way. Burn base

i£
CO
cnj

Medium 1500,
Oo
CL oo

down. 12-Pack PRICE MARKED 1200.

o r
aO CO -
O in t/■

i i nn

(O
5
<
h-

n
p
C0
A-19 Medium 36A/RYH 120 1.29 Street Railway Headlight.
CO
is
CNJ

120 C-5 1000

Design amps: 342 (41)

O
5
<
p
CO
A-15 Medium 40A15

CO
CO
115-125
CNJ
o
CO

Inside Frosted—Appliance.
CNJ

C-9 1500 455

Oven (11)

m
40A15/PM
NT

115-125
CM
o
O)

6
CO

Inside Frosted—Appliance.
CM
i£

1500 455
Q Oven. Carded PRICE MARKED

355
(11)
 1
o w ® LO in. in O io CO o •o in in.
IT) in • in in in ° CN ( CN : cn • « - CN col • •
N" o- N- 1 N- 1 N- O’ •*r CO
I1 i *
' '

i
g 5 © o o o O o o o o •o .o O O O o o O O
o o o O o o oi o 1o :o o o o o o o O
s- ° 2 in in in in in in in in in . m l in U) in in m in
<* -
1 CN CM CN _ *-
i.
jo ■
w * s' . ^
CN CM .? CM CM CM CN f CN ' CN CN CN CN CN

20- ^ * O' ■n- O' 'T CO CO rr

is
, N" O'

c c >
0) o> •
>
CN CN
E CO \ CT) O) 1 05 O)
C-9

C-9
C-9

C-9
(D 0) CT) CT) CT) CT) CT) op
6 6
CT)
FQ
F h
o o o 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 o o
I

■p o) >* o O O O O o o o O O o O o O O O O
CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN CN
C0Q.O
-
! i
l
i cn <r cc DC* DC EC
CT' < < < < < <
i
1 s_/
: —1
0 Ll. — 1 , —1
U_ ' Li-
_J
Lu
1 _J
Li_
■
CL Li-
—
T 3 *o
* CO ■o
! <l>
1 ~o I
1 TQ)5 1 v □ ! ®
UJ. _Q
1 *-
-X fl)
INCANDESCENT LAMPS

S <i>
S t5 S

o
>

p
O

to
CD

CD

<z>

356
 <
◄
C

O
o
CD
<
u_

o
"D
o
O
o
Q.
S
' in
, CM
‘ in

\
;
120 CC-2V 2 '/. 1500
■7lJ Clear—Bent Tip (85) FLAIR
68

■'T
CM
40CAI0/2/F PM 115-125 Outside Frosted—Bent Tip 120 CC-2V 1500
(85) FLAIR

u.
u.
0.
5
in
CM
in
CD
o
F-15 Medium Crystal (Clear) FLAIR 120 C-9 1500 435

u.
CL
5
O'
115-125 | ■7®I White FLAIR 120 C-9 1500 390

u.
<
u.

in in in
\ D
Q.
s
6
O)
is

li. \
115-125 I Auradescent FLAIR 120 1500

6
CO
o o o o
5
CO
O
in
CM
m
CM
- m

r- <9
o> o
CO
Cand. Sprayed White—Decorative. 60 C-7A 1500
Burn base down to horizontal

o-
is
Q
>

o
5
CO
CO
is

O
in
CM
CO

6
I

DC.Bay. 6.40 Clear—Silvered Bowl. 60 500

O X
o
N
> '
Medical Spotlight
09 oie

CM
in
O
Medium 40G/W 115-125 .92 Sprayed White—Decorative C-9 1500

*•
o
CM
G-40 ▲ Medium 115-125 1.82 Clear—Decorative C-9 2500 385

o o
o o
5
U.
CL
5

o O
CM

■—
N
115-125 2.25 White—Moonglow FLAIR C-9 2500 355 '

'T O'
CM
40G40/W 130 2.25 White—Decorative C-9 2500 355
0001
o- cb CO CD O'
is is is is is

A-21 40A/B 115-125 .62 Blue—Decorative 120 C-9

0001
40A/G 115-125 .62 Green—Decorative 120 C-9 4%
:

40A/O 115-125 .62 Orange — Decorative 120 C-9 1000

:

40A/R 115-125 .62 Red—Decorative 120 C-9 1000

9 40A/Y 115-125 .62 Yellow—Decorative 120 C-9 1000 290

40A/Y 130 Yellow—Decorative 120 C-9 1000 290
CM
CO
o
o
o

00
;

40A21/GR/CL 130 Clear—Sign Group Replacem't 120 C-9

O’
CM
co
o
o
o

CO
i£ i£ i£ is is i£
;

40A21/GR/IF 130 Inside Frosted—Sign. 120 C-9

Group Replacement
is
CM
*

40A21/GR/TB 130 .70 Transparent Blue—Sign. 120 C-9 3000

Group Replacement (86)
is
CM
is
<

40A21/GR/TG 130 .70 Transparent Green—Sign. 120 C-9 3000

Group Replacement (86)
O’
is
CM

o
-

CO
o
40A21/GR/TO Transparent Orange—Sign. 120 C-9 3000
Group Replacement (86)

357
All FLAIR Decorative Lamps are individually packaged, price marked and are available in a 12-pack reshippable specialty pack.
 o ? 5
Q.
Q-c- E
§
< i

£x“

IO-

50-i

c c
© O)
E <o
(0 0)
FQ o o
■o O) >>
co a O

O)
a> «) r | c
<o
c CO
(0 u s 51 S.-S
« ^To W (0
O UJ
O) CO
£*
co ^ o cc
-c < a> ® o M-
CO
I I CD CO P <CM
*o E II to D
7s CO m
INCANDESCENT LAMPS

a) a) (I) (D I UJ i “= 3 W
■o o
o uj
cc o > o
+- ^ (0 5 X. 5? O X S
, C Q. c ■q. (0 2E CO co0 C
0 <d 0 a) CO CO S *- O co O
co CC
Q-
Jo CC ui -*
O
P .J-
0 (0 _0 0 -
c 3 ag¬ co O *9 a. 20
i p io 2 e 0 <5 o
:0 o 0. ^
c cm
_E o

o
O
•c
■s
o
(0 (0
“O
a>
3
C
'H
c
o
(0 o
co
W
t
<
CO
5
S.O !C

358
 in O o o o o o
o
O) . OO 00 . 00 00
O-
CO CM * *■ 'T

o O O o o O O O o o O o o o o o o o
o o o o o o o o o o O o o o o o
o m m in in in o o o 00 o o o o o
— — *“ —• *- *“ *

*
is
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CvJ CM

_ 0 o o
:n is 'is is
is
CO co CO in O’ in m CO CO CO co co co CO

> <
CNJ > > CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
CM CM 00 05 CD CM CM CM CM CM CM CM 05 05
00 oo 00
6
o 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 a 6 6 6

O CM CM O O O O O O O O O
o O o
CM CM CM CM CM CO CM 05 •— CM CM CM CM
CO
— *“ * *“

0 0 0 0 0
O O O O O
> > > > >
"CO "(0 -X
,-V O 0 0 0 0 0
05 — 0 w co U) CO
0 co O O
C CO -C -C sz JZ -C 0 0
— t-j «-> ~o C7) O) 05 U) O) O o
-C CM 3 3 3 3
E 05 05 CO 0 o O O O O
>~ > JO -Q

' ' _1
0
—J h= h1 0
CO
QC QC QC 0 CL QC 0
(0
0
CO
0 1 > >* 1 1 0 | I | | o
1 (0 o
1 ^ -C -C
CO
TO x> *o -O TD ■gs
"O "O 05 o> -On -in
o J J $ 0 0 0 0 0 , 0 ,
Ql E 0 E 0 0
o O
Q. to
3
O
3
O
to 3 CO CO to to -C CO to « z to to to J!
3 O q_CM
o —J O o O O O CC QC
< QC CC CO 25
U- U_ U_ ^ C/) U- li_ 0 U_ 0
| 1 bl 1 1 1 O ^ "o 1 1
1 - 1 - 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 1 0 0
T3 ■o ■O Q. 0 (6 •O > ■O >
0 CO ■o CO •“ CO *o T3 co CC "O Q. Slf
0 CO 0 0 CO 0 (0 0
0 0 c <15 O 0 O < CO W5 4 co 3 2 o-
o _C £ £ CO iE CO
o o
C
£ O C- O C-
_C
a CL C P- CM o O
06
.75

os
.85
.85

CM
.70

O CM CO 05 CD
5 05 o o CM CO CD CM CO r- r- (D

cm cm CO CO CO CO

in in
in in
CM (M
CM CM

o in in in O
< o o in o o o o O O
o o o CO
CD CM CM CO CO CM CO CM CO
v- CO CD CM CD •“ *” *“ w
■
* X. Jc
CL 0. CL a. a.
•**
CM CM CM CM CM CM

CD
U.
h-
UL 00 in in
CM CO CO Cfl V) cn (fl (0 ■— \ CO <0
CL CC CC CC CC CC CC 05 05 > >
o in in is O ■s
< < < < < < <
40A

<
p o o © < < h- •—
o
a. <
o o o o o o O o o
o ^r o o © in
in in in in in in in in in
.

E " 05 0
E E -D E
3
3 .3 0
O) > 05 >
o 3 05 3 0 •o ■O ~ ■q
II
10 _J 0) _J 0 0 <u _*
CM CO co tn 5
5 £ Q CO CO
»—
P P
< CO < \_
$ C
A-19

05
A-15

00
h~
00
h- <
O

h-
$

in
CC
<
CL o \
I>

359
 INCANDESCENT LAMPS

360
Approx. DESCRIPTION Approx. Approx.
Filament

OO
3
-O
Base Lamp Ordering Code Volts List Hours Initial
Design

jd-i

w cl O
-i6J
Price Lumens

p o> >•
Life

i
1-
l-
C

to
0
0
c
♦-*
3

0)
0
a>
“O
CM
O'
*
Medium 50GA 115-125 $0.91 Inside Frosted—Ivory bowl. C-9 1000 575
Semi-indirect (3)

o>
CM
O'
•

50GA/DPK 115-125 Coloramic—Inside Frosted. C-9 1000

S<D
Dawn Pink Bowl. Semi-indirect (3)

rr
5
6

8
◄
®
T3
D
CO
O
r~-
<
CM

6
CO
-
O
O
O

50R20 115-125 2.10 Reflector—Light Inside 440

Frosted (14)

CO
O
<0
O
CO
CM
O
O
O

50R20 2.53 Reflector—Light Inside C-7A 440

Frosted (14)

Cnf)
(O
O
r--
<
6
CO

50R20BW 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Blue White 2000

-

(14 34.35)

O
r-
<
6
co
■»

50R20PK 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Pink (14,34.35) 2000

ot
CO
CM
O

0
CO CM
\

50R30/FL 1.62 Reflector Floodlight—Inside CC-6 5% 2000

Frosted (14)

o>
E

◄
5
0)
TD
D
>"
CM
'

50A19/31 115-125 .95 Clear—Commercial Oven 120 C-9 1000

O
CM
O
CO
0
6
CO

Medium 50T10/RSIF 1.94 Inside Frosted—Rough Service 1000

CM
CM

< h- <
CO
CO

50A21 Inside Frosted (11) 120 C-6 1000 875

*
CM

CL
<
CM 0C
O

8
CM
O
O
-

Screw 50PAR36NSP 3.51 PAR — Narrow Spotlight (65) C-6

Terminal

CM
•

50PAR36WFL 3.51 PAR—Wide Floodlight (65) C-6 2000

CM
CM CM CM
CO 10 O' CM CM CM
>

50PAR36VWFL 3.51 PAR—Very Wide Floodlight C-6 2000

(65)
O'

CO
0
in

CM
<
Medium 50A21 Inside Frosted—Train (11) * 120 C-9 1000 805

CO
CM
CO CM

o> O
-

<
Oi
50A/RS Inside Frosted—Rough Service. 120 C-9 3% 1000
Train

CO
^5

25

<
:

50A21 Inside Frosted—Train (11) 120 C-9 1000

CO CM

in
in in
O O)
O- CO

50A19/RS Inside Frosted—Rough Service. 120 C-9 1000 545

Train 1
 o o o o o o O d o’ o ooo
r— * • - 05 •'T CD O’ CM in co oo . 00 <D ^
05 in in o in CD 04
m- o- CO in cd cm
•- CM — CM co ^

2000
o o o o o o o O o o o’ o o o’ o d o’ o o o o
o o o o o o o in m o o in o o m o o m o o m
o o o o o o o r^- m cm — in cm — in cm «— m eg —

2'Vu
CM CM CM CM CM co co CO co CO

4Vi
CO CO CO CO CO co CO in in in in in

_Design amps: .519 (41)__

< < < CM <
C-2R 1
CC-81
< DC ®>
CM 6

.52 Inside Frosted—Street Railway. 120 C-9

1 *7 CM *— •— *— CM *— in 05 in 05
o ^ O
o 6 6 o 6 6 6 66 66 CM OO

o O o o o O O O ■*T o o O
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CD CM CD CD CD
•— •” ■“
/—V
05 05 r. T~- TO Q a> Q
CO UJ co ty CD
O O CD ^
£ >* .D > TO ^ $
O) 05 O) TO -°ec ■°K
05 05
CD CD 3 s —1 CD £ < £ <
D
j: o
sz P (0 CD CD
SZ
05 05 .E Q. .E a UJ
D D
O
C 05
c w
C
C
05
CO >,o >,o a cCi >, JC
(0 O
s—\ O 2. -o =? C
CO CC
1 OC 05 CC
*°
05
2? E
,°* ro c O
> CD
> CL Q
'—• ,
1 05 TO 05 TO co -X co Ji: Q CO eg UJ
*o T5 ~005 "O
05
-E -E TO 11 ^
«)
1o ^ I ™ *
cc
05 1 « 1
~o cc
C/5 TO CL 05 Q-
O
05
O
ul
O O
LlI ul
1 ° f 2 £ ^
- m
O
c
C TO
TO
w
<
5
^
<D

ft*
C <

£ 1 I 1 S 5 . TO JD UJ
05 05 05 05 , C ^ c
~o 0505 T5 TD ~q <0 s ®
TO I s |
TO TO r ^
O £
O 3
O
CO
O CD CC
c/5 05 05 o o CC
c o CC u O u. O Li- CD T3 CD -§ 2L O co a. CD -Q CL

00 © m in O O CM
o
CO
CD oo CO CO r<* 05 r- CM 05 05 05

CD O)
"
in
o o CM
in in ’—
CM CM
120

O m o o in
o
to
CM
o o ©
CM CM
in §
CO in CM CO CO CO
s 8 CM CM
•—
CM
58 WATTS_

2 2 2
CL Q. a.
X. 1C
Q_ a. CL
CM CM CM

1C
CL
00
CM $ o
0) m X X
CO
CC
\
s CM
0.
CM

5-
<
o
<
O
<
o
56A21

CC 13 CC 05 O) Q O in in in
w— 05 m m \
< < < < < < < o o o
\
o o
o o o o o © o m m in m
m in in m in in in 05 0)

E
Medium

t o
o u
CD
2 £ < (D C < 2 £
c 2
co S3 C 5 $
C 3 $
,9 CT O T3
Si O O O <D
m2 m 2
o o "S
m2
©
in
o ®
m2
< in CM

■m. i o
5
in
CM
A-21

© in CM co
•— CM CM CM CM CD
K> CM

k /-
V*/
6in QL h- 6
m
< ■i < 6
m
CL

361
 INCANDESCENT LAMPS

362
UJ
cc
o

Q
(/)
o
Ql
z

CO
3
n
E
o
■s

a.
O)
50-
iO-

(0

t
o-

eg
o
CO

©
CO

¥*■
Medium 60A 120 Inside Frosted (11) CC-6 1000 870

O'
is
co
60A 24PK PM 120 .34 Inside Frosted. 24-Pack 120 CC-6 1000 870
PRICE MARKED

<
h-
CL
O'

CO
O
Uu
CM
o
*
CM
i?

CO
115-125 Inside Frosted—TUFF-SKIN 120 CC-6 r 1000
24-Pack (44)

CO
eg
CO

o
60A 125 Inside Frosted (11) CC-6 1000 870
O
r*»

O
CM
is
CO
00
o

60A 130 Inside Frosted (11) 120 CC-6 O' 1000

is
;

60A/W 24PK PM 120 .37 Soft-White. 24-Pack 120 CC-6 1000 855
PRICE MARKED (11)
O'
is
00
eg
6

60A/WP 24PK PM 120 4/1.98 Soft-White PLUS—24-Pack 120 CC-6 3% 1500

PRICE MARKED (11)
O'
is

60A/CL 120 .39 Clear (11) 120 CC-6 3% 1000 870

O'
is

60A/CL 24PK PM 120 .39 Clear. 24-Pack PRICE MARKED 120 CC-6 3% 1000 870
(11)
o

10/V09
co
is

i5

130 J Clear (11) 120] CC-6 1000 870

O'

66/V09
is
CO
is

AMedium 120 .47 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ 120 CC-6 2500 775
ice (11)
O'
i^

eg
o

*
5
60A/99 24PK 120 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ CC-6 3'/. 2500 775
ice. 24-Pack (11)
O'

66/V09
i£
CO
i£

130 .57 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ 120 CC-6 2500 r 775

!
ice (11) _
is
CO
is

o
<9
-
o
o
O

Medium 60A/D 115-125 .70 Inside Frosted—Daylight (11) ! 120 ] 500

>

1OQ/V09

CM
in
o
o
. *

in
.93 Clear—Daylight (11) 120 fiooo 1
98
^

(O

o
6

60A/SB 120 Inside Frosted—Silvered Bowl 120 1000 740

i

(11)
ryi

_ 0001
i $

CD

;o
jo
~

60A/Y 24PK PM 115-125 .52 Yellow—Bug-Lite. 24-Pack 120 550

PRICE MARKED (11)
!
i
1

•
1
 C\l
1

©
CO
60A/Y 24PK PM .63 Yellow—Bug-Lite. 24-Pack CC-6 1000 550
PRICE MARKED (11)
0001

$
.

in
CM
m
CM
:
60A/DPK 24PK PM Coloramic—Dawn Pink. 120 CC-6
24-Pack PRICE MARKED (11)

t
!
0001
>

i .
:

m
'
in
CM

in
60A/SKY 24PK PM Coloramic—Sky Blue. 24-Pack 120 CC-6

'
PRICE MARKED (11)

O'

>
:

CM
O
CM

CD
o
6

o
in
CM
in
o,
ACand. 60B10/F PM Crystal (Clear) (85) FLAIR| 1500 J
‘I

J/6VO09 Wd

CM

◄
~o
E

05
D
CA-9 115-1251 .79 Clear—Bent Tip (85) FLAIR 120 CC-2V 1500 I
68

CM

>
CM

o
6

CO
o
O
<
o>
CM
U.
Q_
5
in
CM
m
Outside Frosted—Bent Tip 120 1500
(85) FLAIR
0091 1

*
CM
is

CM
>

o
.
•

◄
C
CM
m
r-_
o>

(0
"D
in

o
CA-10 60CA10/F PM iClear—Bent Tip (85) FLAIR 120

iS
>

CM
>

CM
O
o
6 6

in
CM
m
60CA10/2/F PM .89 Outside Frosted—Bent Tip 2’/. 1500
!
(85) FLAIR
is
o
o
o

a>
V

CM
o

CM
m

in
Medium 60A21/B r -®31 Blue (11.49)
:s

05
6 6
60A21/G 115-125 .83 | Green (11.49) ,120 1000
o-
-

60A21/O 115-125 .83 Orange (11.49) 120 C-9 1000

60A21/R 115-125 .83 Red (11,49) 1000
E] C-9 0001
is

CO
CO
60A21/R2 115-125 Rose (11,49) 120 C-9

*
O’
i£

00
CO
60A21/Y 115-125 Yellow (11.49) 120 C-9 1000
O’
is
•

60A21/NA 115-125 f 6.20 Natural Amber (11) 120 [C-9 1000

o-

05
is

60A21/NB 115-125 6.20 Natural Blue (11) r 120 | 1000 I

is
•

60A21/NG 115-125 6.20 1 Natural Green (11) 120 C-9 1000

O’

60A21/NR 115-125 6.20 | Natural Ruby (11) 120 | C-9 1000

1500

H*
CO
1 Disc L60 115-125 3.07 | Clear—Lumiline 24 | C-8
o
r-

CM
CO
L60/IF 115-125 1 Inside Frosted—Lumiline 24 [C-8 1500 535
o
i£

L60/W 115-125 3.21 White—Lumiline 24 C-8 1500 450

iS

CM
o

r-

E
3000 675

5
◄
05
T5
D
60A21/TS 120 | Clear—Traffic Signal (57) | C-9
Hi

A-21
is

•9T
is
CM

in
60A21/TS 1125 | Clear—Traffic Signal (57) 120 C-9 3000 675
CM
is
CO
o
o
o

in
60A21/TS 130 CO | Clear—Traffic Signal (57) 120 C-9 675

363
All FLAIR Decorative Lamps are individually packaged, price marked and are available in a 12-pack reshippable specialty pack.
 in m in in in IT 0
t: - «
CL a -E CO 00 0^ S- in O
03 03
Q. C -
• CO CO CO CO CO CO
< ~ *“ *“

5 ?> o O o O o
o o o o o
go o o o o o o c o o o O O
o o 00 CO 00 00 o o o o o o O
in in

<x *“ ’ CO 00 CO oo 00 00 S~

Io . "0 i<: Is Is Is Is Is
■ * CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CO

50 l£ l£ l£ Is Is Is
in in CO M- oo CO O' ■NT NT
;n
O'
1^
o-

> > > > <

0)
E
03
CO
CM CM CM CM r- CD CD
CO CO 6 6 6 6 *7 03 O) (73 (7) (73 03
(D 0

6 6 o o o 6 6 6 6
6 6
6 6 6 0 0
•D O) >< CM eg CM CM CM CM O O O O O o o
c/5 a o *“ ’— CM CM CM CM CM CM CM O
CM
O
CM
* *“ •— —
,
~o
in T3 C 00
00) *03 CD X
X § —N
/*—"N ._.
P <D TO
00 C in
Is-
in in
S-
o > in in in
4 £ X CD O
CM o O F Id "cd 0 "cd *0 "0 O
■ -C E o c L. c: c c c 0 ^
z
CO CO o 1 o 03 CD CD 03 03 03 x

0 o o CO o C/3C/3 cn V) C/3 C/3 •- 4 w

CO
a. 1 o >, c —1 7, CM Q
?• *o -J (D 0 *-> o o o 0 __ UJ
S 6 «> k' 0 5 _J(O 0 Si <4- S: s~ ^4— *4- "O T3 ^
-C CO LO c -Q T3 0 0 0 0 0 0
4- QC
3 C/J o^ D 0 O h— "h1 V1 h1 ►— ►— S<
03 X _ X
O

1 ^ o 1 ^
0 CO 1 ^ 11 11 r-
—
1 — 0 | 1 | 1 1 I X is
■g cl X p -O -00
| Clear

X ^ X w x p ~o CD 0 00 00 00 0 0 ^
o < 03 < ^ < CD CO 0 0 0 O
CO .E CNJ Q. _r 2er, 2 £ _c o o o o o O
W c/3 nr
£ CL
54|

o> o> in o in in o O)
00 °0
49

59

^ to 03
CD o> CM o> r- in in CO
•— in in 03 in CO

o
o
120
120

> 0 0 0
120
125
130

120
125

CO
38

38

38

s CM
CD CM CM

* *
CL 0.
0 *■ nT
04
Q.
CM
sc:
o 0.
NT
CM
*c
*p
— CO CO V)
U. »— h- h- CO CO C/3
»- K »-
o * cc QC QC QC
< < < < CM CM CM CM
h- Q. Ql 0. QL < < < < < < <
O o o o o O O r- r- 03 03 03
< <
CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO
m m
r» [

E Id *o
c *0 E E E
D 5 | UJ CD S •- D
CD ■D 2? £ D O ? E ~o *o *6
CD O <j) 03^ O Q) ID ID
5 C/3 h- O CL C/3^ 5 5 5
5 CO •4 V) 4
CO r
M- < <
o QC
CO < CM CM $ CM
h- CL
*
< h*
<o
< O)
«o
< in ;CX

364
 CM
75A

O
o
CD
CO

6
125 | Inside Frosted (11) I 4'/u 1 750 1 1190

co o;
r- CM
75A

O'
CO
is
130 Inside Frosted (11) 120 CC-6 750 1190

O'
75A/W

CO
is
24PK PM 120 .37 Soft-White. 24-Pack. 120 CC-6 750 1170
PRICE MARKED (11)

O'
75A/WP

CO
24PK PM 120 4/1.98 Soft-White PLUS. 24-Pack 120 CC-6 1500 1075
PRICE MARKED (11)

O-
75A/CL

CO
120 .39 Clear (11) 120 CC-6 750 1190

O'
75A/CL

CO
130 .47 Clear (11) 120 CC-6 750 1190

o^
AMedium i£ is
co
75A/99 120 .47 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ 120 CC-6 2500 1000

ice (11)

f-
O'
co

75A/99 24PK 120 Inside Frosted — Extended Serv¬ 120 CC-6 2500 1000

ice. 24-Pack (11) O'

CO
is

75A/99 130 .57 Inside Frosted — Extended Serv¬ 120 CC-6 2500 1000

ice (11)
O'
is

o
a
(O
Medium 75A/DPK 24PK PM 115-125 .52 Coloramic — Dawn Pink. 120 1000

24-Pack PRICE MARKED (11)

O'

75A/SKY 24PKPM 115-125 .52 Coloramic — Sky Blue. 120 CC-6 1000

24-Pack PRICE MARKED (11)

O'
CO
i£
-

75A/RX 115-125 .70 Red—Exit Light (6.11) 120 CC-6 5000 +

o

A-21 75A21/RS 120 .83 Inside Frosted — Rough Service 120 C-22 2 ”/-. 1000 750

CM
o
O'
CM
i£

75A21/RS 24PK .83 Inside Frosted—Rough Service. 120 C-22 1000 750
24-Pack
SC l
O'

AMedium 120 1000

-_

75A21/RS/TF 24PK 115-125 Inside Frosted — Rough Service. C-22

TUFF-SKIN. 24-Pack
CM
CM
O'
CM
o
o
o

Medium 75A21/RS 125-130 .99 Inside Frosted — Rough Service 120 750
66
CM
CM
O'
iN

O
6 6
CM
CM

75A21/RS 24PK 125-130 Inside Frosted — Rough Service. 1000 750

V 24-Pack
CM

★PAR-38 Medium 75PAR/FL 120 2.59 PAR — Projector Floodlight CC-6 2000 765
Skirted
CM
in to

75PAR/FL PM 120 2.59 PAR—Projector Floodlight CC-6 2000 765

PRICE MARKED

365
 INCANDESCENT LAMPS

366
Approx. DESCRIPTION Approx, iApprox.
Filament Hours initial
Bulb Base Lamp Ordering Code Volts List Design

—i ci —i

2d-i

03 0.0
Ufa 1Lumen*

-a o >>
Price

C
c
©
-o

o
«-*
3

r
CO

80
<
:
CC-6 2000 765

co
PAR—Projector Floodlight

**
125-130 1

CO
CO

I
Medium ! 75PAR/FL

in in

<N CM
Skirted 3.11 PAR—Projector Floodlight CC-6 2000 765
75PAR/FL PM 125-130
PRICE MARKED

$ SiQ
765
■-
2000

04
CC-6

m
o>

Ol
o
75PAR/SP PAR—Projector Spotlight

X.j
o
04
o
o

in in

CM OJ
2.59 PAR—Projector Spotlight CC-6 : 765
75PAR/SP PM 120
PRICE MARKED
j

125-130 3.11 PAR—Projector Spotlight CC-6 2000 765

75PAR/SP
in £

CM CM
765
f.

3.11 PAR—Projector Spotlight CC-6 2000

75PAR/SP PM 125-130
PRICE MARKED
o
CM
o
o

in
£
»

CM
?-

CC-6

o
©
75PAR38/2FL 120 PAR—Cool-Beam —Floodlight
(14,55,77)
in

CM
X

125-130 8.40 PAR—Cool-Beam—Floodlight CC-6 2000

75PAR38/2FL
(14.55,77) 1
CM
o
o
o

CM

CC-6 765

CM
PAR—Compact Projector Flood¬

o
Medium 75PAR/3FL 3.78
Side light. Support lamp by bulb rim
Prong or metal shell of base

1
CM

CC-6 2000 765

j CM
PAR—Compact Projector Spot¬

;o
75PAR/3SP 3.78
light. Support lamp by bulb rim
or metal shell of base —

:
006
CM
o
o
O

in

1 Reflector Floodlight (14) ] CC-6

s
X
Medium

i
006
:

| Reflector Floodlight (14) CC-6 5’/. 2000

* V
[125-130 006
1 Reflector Spotlight (14) CC-6 2000

r- r* r*-
in in
cc cc
CO CO CO
o o O
u. 14- CO
-j -j Q.
120 006
■'T •'T ■'T
l

CC-6 2000

in j co In 00
r
[ Reflector Spotlight (14)

in
cc
CO
O
'v
CO
Q.
125-130
2.64' I Reflector—Amber (14.34,35) CC-6 2000

r-
in
cc
CO
o
<
115-125 f
CM
o
o
o
>

CC-6

CM
in

in
75R30/B [ 2.64 1 Reflector—Blue (14,34,35)
CM
o
O
O

in in in in in

CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
i.
4

CC-6
CM
CO | Reflector—Blue-White
75R30/BW 115-125
| (14.34,35)
 CM
o
o
o

CM

in
m
CM
CO
:
75R30/G Reflector—Green (14,34,35) 24 CC-6

CM
:

CO
-
75R30/PK 115-125 Reflector—Pink (14,34,35) 24 CC-6 2000

CM
o
o
o

CM
;

CM
CO
75R30/R 115-125 Reflector—Red (14.34,35) CC-6

m in in in

CM
CO
75R30/Y 115-125 1 Reflector—Yellow (14,34,35) 24 CC-6 2000

CM
CO

◄
E
CM
CM
o
•4T r-
:

<D
■o
D
O
-
R-40 75R/FL Reflector Floodlight—I F. (34) CC-6 2000

•Is

CM
CO
;

75R/FL 125-130] 2.49 1 Reflector Floodlight—I F. (34) CC-6 2000

CO

CO
o>
»

E-17 75E17/W/TF/F PM 115-125 Postlight—Soft-White, 120 CC-6 4000

[ ..... TUFF-SKIN (44) FLAIR
098

CO

CM
:

o*
r-
in
■<r
o
u.
CL
2
CM
CM
in

6
o
O
115-125 White — Moonglow FLAIR C-9 2500

•'T ■<T
CM
cb
75G40/W 130 I 2.25 1 White—Decorative C-9 2500 860

CM
T-10 Medium 75T10/1 120 1 2.70 1 Inside Frosted—Showcase C-23 1000

1
0
is

2
CM

(5
(/)
-CO
05

O
0)
O
<0
)
1000
-

75T10/45 120 1 2.53 1 C-23

CO

CM
o
1

<o

<
-CM
75A21 Inside Frosted (11,53) C-6 5'/. 1000
CO

75A21 12 Inside Frosted (11,53) 120 C-6 1000

is
•

CM

o> 5 r-
o

<
o
1000

CM
CO
75A23 30 | Inside Frosted—Train (11) C-9
CM
:

★PAR-38 Medium 75PAR/FL 30 | 3.72 1 PAR—Train—Floodlight C-6 1000 975

0001
Skirted
in in in in
4

CM
l
•_

75PAR/FL 36 3.72 PAR—Marine Floodlight— C-6

Fishing Boat
CO
00
o
O

CM
CM
>

o
6
:
V

★ PAR-46 Screw 75PAR46 48 6.15 PAR—Mine Locomotive Head¬

Terminal light (2.71)
CM
in
!

o
to
6
*

★PAR-38 Medium 75PAR/FL 75 3.83 PAR—Train—Floodlight 1000

Skirted
CM

CM
•

ore
★PAR-36 Screw 75PAR36/RS 75 PAR—Train Warning—Rough CC-6 500
Terminal Service
in
CO
;

00
A-21 1 Medium 75A21 230 1 Inside Frosted (11) 120 C-7A 1000

94 WATTS__
P-25 Medium 94P25 125 2.48 Clear—Street Railway Head- 60 C-5 4Vi 2'/i« 1000
_light. Design amps. .863 (41)_

367
All FLAIR Decorative Lamps are individually packaged, price marked, and are available in a 12-lamp reshippable specialty pack.
 ° a e
d — F
°-S J
<
=

x CO
O c a>

<X

iO.

20-

c c
® o>
E co
<0 ffl

WaO

Q) CL, o
a
© T3
CL C
□s © ©
CL ■4 -C

11 4 C'
CM 3:
CM ^

©• tj-
<*>
° S
cos is
O iii CD
*© ,~N
_J —

I w mg I ^r 1 w
CO -60 3*
-o ^ ~o © T3 ©
0 co Q) CO
5 tc I cc ©
+-> © ©
a) cl CO X)
w £L
o
Li:
u
§<

CD
II — CD
W _Q

-o
0
2
Ll.
2 x>
Ll. 0
03 (0 fl) "O 0 X)
■g cl
,
-rCL
<o
so -Ss |s 2 s I S
4
c CM
o rj- O CC “E CO © © © w >-
c o c o c -C
©
c -C
-E COCM CO 0. 00. o
o
CO
K m
2 « S
S3?
9T

O
>

?
X

"2
O
&
E
9

E
D
9 ♦L "c T3
CO
CD
t •<

i
s iO
3
CD

368
o O o o O o o O O O O O O
03 03 M- O' CO CO CO CO r^- f"-
CO
*■"
(O ■O' CM CM
*”
CM
*”
CM CO
*“
s
*“
03
'

o o o o o O o o o o o O 0 O O O O O O
in in o o o o o o o o O 0 in in O O in in
Is- r- in
CM
in
CM
o o o o o 8 o O 0 r- r- O O 1

5s is <•
is is is is is iN is is is is is is
co co CO CO co co CO CO CO CO M- M- CO CO m- :

m •0 «»
is :£ S' is is is i^ is
in in in in in in in in in in in in m in ur> in in in in

coco p p r-~ r^- h- r- p p p p co co

a)

C-9
6 6 6 6 *7 *7 7- 6 6 6 6 6 6
o o O o o 6 6 o 6 6 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 0

O O O O O O O O O O O 0 0 0 0 0 O
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

JC
0 0 0 0 0 >
a O g o Z
0 £ $ $ £
0
CD
0
CD
1 ’>
s_ £ ’> £ <2 CL
0
CD
0
CD
O
CO
O
CO
O O
CO
■D "O 0 0 0 0 0 ■4 c
CO
■0
c
0 0 CD CD CD CD CD CM CM 0 0 ■0 •0 ■0
~o "O _C _C _c 03 0 0 0 0
-C JZ
o> O) O) O) 03 0 0 — ,—v 0 0 0 0
13 D O 3 O _> _>
/-V —v
•—
X
LU
1
X
UJ
1
O
cc
1
O
cr
o
CE
1 __-
o
QC
1
o
oc
1
>
0
CO
>
0
CD
-O

>
1
-Q

>
1
0
Q
1
C/ CD
1
CD
1
A1
CO
1
1 1 1 1 1 CO 1 1 03
-C .c ■o ■0 ■O
~o "D "O •O ■O "O TD C30 ~o ■o 03 03
"O T3 T3
0 0 0 0 0 '—' 0 0 0 7? 0 0 0 0 0
13 O >> 2 2
♦- 0
0> 03 to 03 03 03 «- 0 z 03 03 ■— O O 03 0 03 09 03 03
Q( O O o ^ s: * o ^

^ o
ti- c n ^ o
0 _ 0 0 0 0 0 ©2! ©2 Q) 00 a> co i 0
■g ^ ■o w ■o a It -D CL w pg w -O CM. -O CM ( ,-*1 T> ^
i «— i 03 *~
03 0 03 0 I w 4 « p W 4 03 0 *03 0
c o
o: Ow COCO — C •—

4-
CO CO ,00 l CO
CM ! CM CO i CM in j oo
i in © Ip CO 00 I — CO —

r ! *
O
115-125
115,120

o
! co i CO '8

I in 1 in O m 1 in
130

120
125

130

120

I O
CM CM 1 CM CM )2 CM

i
XL ' * 1 *
Q. I CL , CL ] o-

CM I CM

u. CO co
03 03 >- OC I cc I to
03 03 CD CO CD CO
V* to
CM CM CM CM
CC CC cc to |S CD i CD

< < < < < < < < < 1<
O O O O 0 0 0 < o o I©
O O O O 0 0 0 o o 1o

F F E E
O O O D
TJ x> "O "O
0 0 0 0
5 5 > 2
4 4

CO CO
CM CM CM

< < <

369
 §• I o o O o o O o O O o
£ O co a> CO 00
o o 00 CM CM CM CO CO ©
<-3 •“ •”

is» o o o o o o o o O o o o o o O o o o o
o o o o o in in l/) in o o o o o o o m o o
9” o _i o o o o in in r>- r- r- C'- o o o CM CM CM o o
CM CM CO CO CO CM

,s .N is
-icj -i ; * CM CM CM CO co CO CM O'
u>
5d-i is
in in in in CO cb in in in in •^r O' O' uo in ii) co

c c > CO
© 05 CO CO CO CO CO co co © CM CD © —
E £0 a> 6 6 6 6 05 in in in

C-9
C-9
(0 © 6 6 a 6 GO
6 6 ci> 6
o o u o 6 6 u o o o 6 6 6 6 u o u

o O O O rr •O' o O O O O o o O O O O O O O
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM ©
W Q. O — •T. — — *“ — — *“ — —
__v
CT —
_¥ •- *— — -—'
O O C- O C
<0 © D m Q. ©
a CL A <U. UJ
in in
if) >
z F SC sc a> _ _ _ 1 O
o CM S p cl ac 3 oc © 1
L- CO < © © c c c r*. r~. TO
c- "© r^’
c < o
CL in
55 >,5 If) if) if) Jc CO ©
</> GC 5 o 5o -SC UJ © ©
05 © 05
O ■ uj , UJ o u aT o o o g> O
E
°?9 C
o o x>
C/D °>JC oT £
1 cc O E
o ©
UJ D cc 3 cc 1 GC © a? o O
©
Q. O
Q o a. O CL Q© T
©
*© '© v© Q. Q.
~o
W o CL
Q ►— £ CO CO < O U CO
H- CO
*1 “ 5 E -* E -X 11 | 1 1 1 1 1 1 | 1
5 UJ £ UJ to ^
u. ©
CO ^
u- (0 © c CT) w_
1 1 1 1 1
©
1

OO oo o q. o Q_ CO © © C © © © © © © •D © ©
o a> cc 0) GC o 4 o 4 © IE D © © © © © © CT — © 10 © ©
_c (J O
to > a. > CL O CM O CM a § CQ o o QC O O O o o _J c. O
K a> r*- o> in m in in m in CM ® CM CO 00 CO
S « o in CO m in CM CM 05 © © © m in <& CM co © 05 05
ir
a.— ft> d CM CM CO CO CO CM CM
<
in in in in in in m m in © © in
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CM CM
•“ •— — •- — •“ — »—
o in o in in in in in in in in © in © o in © © in in O
CO — CM CM CO CM CM CM CM — CM

5 2 5 2
CL CL CL CL
• sc sc * SC
GL
■§ CL GL CL
O CM CM CM CM
o>
o
'C <r>
© CL 05
^^j CO(0 (0 CL a. CO CM
1 sc > a K H- h- CO co ”3“
©
CM
> > 0. sc •V. N a.
a /-\ a (0 © CQ o o GC co
N
CO ©
E "O § CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
© < < < < o a < < < < < < < < < < < < < O
3 O o O © O © © o © © © O © o © ©
C
§ s o o © § © O © S © © © O © © O o © O

c
© >%
CD

CO
(0
O
'—^
IQ)
°
<D
co
6
CO si co
t
i
8 o O

370
 v 0
c c
o o —■ o o o _
-O'-"
o yo
— LU
o tt c ° if) ^ co K-
o o a .2 o ql
CO &z co st co — <h J CO ■'T
^
cc
■D w
_j Q Q o -H°
CO <D J
o Q "g < o Q ° Q
~0
O *
UJ

o * O LU O □ 0 co o O CO o o co
O UJ -9 cc Q. w a o z
CC St U. * u. < -C ^
^< ^ oc _2>co o Q
O _I
o ac w *“• <
55 o < ss o < °S o5
SO
So =5
o 0 .*2
=5 «-
o 0 .22
U LLi S5 o£ (J UJ 55
o -o
Q. 0 w
0J.O 0 “■
"uj oB ® O ■2.UI a^O
co
2E 20 2 O o Ol 1- o II 5z <3 2
-
0
to 5!
0- 0- Q-E CL £ r? Q.
Q. ^
2- E Ig
I C
CL 25; I < . £
0 D O _Q
I V
oc -g
I °-
cc « cr ® CE S
I “- I Q.
OC "D
< 0
ii
< 0
0 |
_0 >
2 I
<0 § C
»®5
0 § F
.9—0
< s < -2 Q. S.
a < am < CD a (5 a Q- CL OC CL > I c CJ -D O -O O iZ ^ Oil £

m io

E 3 £ E 3 a>
9 -o 3 9 □,
.9 ®
T3 ~ II
a> a>
/ < b o>
U QJ c 0 0 II 31
0 "2 <u a
5 05 5a Q 5 <T 5a

g<^ cc DP
+

371
 1080,
o O O o

[C-9_1160
CO CD
i?
<~3
CO
*■“ cx
o
CD O

X M
o O O O O O

750
o o o o o
s § £ 8 in O o o O o o o O O o
O O in o CO o o o in o o
I 2* *“ *“ w~ ’ cx ’

3*/i«
*
cx CD CD O’ CD CD CD CD CO

5'/u
50- in CO in O' in CD in in in in in in

c c >
© cs CO CX < < r- < <
E » r*- r- r^-
C-6

O)

C-5

C-9

5.80 Clear—Marine Running Light. | 60 C-5

« © d ()
^=Q o d o 6 d d d 6 d

5 »>, CX O o o CX o O O O o O
*— CM OJ CM cx »— cx CX CX CX cx CX
waO *- *” *“ *“ •-4

__

| Mogul_Filaments operated separately (1)

0 O’ 0 >
O O
sz 0
E O) z CO >

x: 0) r—v 0 ~o 0
O) CO CD 0) CO
CO 0 CO
wo5 -C
O)
0 >
U_
JO
O)
"O SI
CD
X c
g-z Li- 0
o CD E Z> o X O
>_ — X
Ll.
t-
cc K l— X UJ
O o o
i 1 1 1 1 1
1| "O E T3 -S ■O TJ ~o TJ ■O "O
w 0 0_ o CD <d f"» 0 0 0 0 0 0
a. 10
o
CO
O
to
o
CO CO
p o
CO
O
CO in
O O
_j
2 9 « 5
Li- l Li- Li- Li- Li- Ll. /—N b_ li_
1
1 ^
0) 0 ^ 05 0 0 0 0 0 0 —
oc CD X 1? ^ CO P CC1 € CD TD ~o ^ y ;u ~q w
< Q> x °°. CO *“ CD CO CO CO in CO *“ w 0 CO in 0
CL o?2 c ^ o o _C_ Q. X _L- t. c •- J_ Q _c c o

o
(A m CM f- in in CO CO in cx in CO
2*3 (O m a> r- r- CO in r- e-
id cb ex cb
f
_

o o o
in in in
cx cx cx
o o' 6 o o o
120

> CX o o cx o- o CO CO in CO r* o
CM CD CD CO CO cx cx cx cx cx CO
100-100 WATTS _

O
-J
A 3-Contact 100/100P25/29

Li-
CM
"E — o
O CO CO CO
CO li. CO o> co
X C£ QC O) AC
"D < 03 ex < N N
i a. i- < < < a- < < <
o O
< < <
o o
3 8
C
8 § 8 § 8 § o o 8 o O
V- -5-

>» *CD
o E E E E E F F F
O
3 0
C0 3 3 3 J ■- 3 3 3 3 3
-O t: TD ■D ~o 5 E T3 ~o TD ~n "D
ffi © JC d 0 a) CD 0 0 0 0 0
(0 5 co CO 2s :> CO^ 2s 5 5
< ◄ <
t
< GO
C?
CO
o- —\
£ CD X.
P-25

flt
00 cx CX CX
< < ( J
§ a.
♦
h- < < CL
+
< V\

372
 in
CM
o
eg
CD
3-Contact 100/300 6PK PM 1.39 Soft-White—3-Way. Burn base 1500. 1320,

o
CC 1:0
Mogul

uo
down 6-Pack PRICE MARKED 1200, 3620.
1150 4940

\
o>
<0
CO
O
CM
o

CO
o
-
100/300/DPK 12PKPM 115-125 Coloramic—Dawn Pink. 3-Way.

0? O
CC 00

oo
Burn base down. 12-Pack
PRICE MARKED

20°
CM
O
CM
CM
CD
CM

O
CD
o
o
*
100/300/2 Soft-White—3-Way. Neck of

cc 00

uu
<?6
bulb coated red from base to
maximum bulb diameter Burn
base down

CM
O
CM
CM
CD
O
CD
CM
O
O

100/300/3 Soft-White—3-Way. Neck of

cc 00

oo
bulb coated old rose from base
to maximum bulb diameter Burn
base down

£
<

©
(0

<
CM
CO
CM
©
CM
CM
o
6
O)
LO
ID
O
O

Medium 101A23 Inside Frosted—Street Railway.

Arc Resisting (11,25)

t-
h-
CO

O
<

CC
C?
o
CM
CM
If

O
CO
•<T
CM
r-

6
in
CM
O

AMedium
o
o

110R30/FL/RS Reflector Floodlight — Inside

Frosted. Rough Service (14)

h-

<0
<
h-
(0
◄
E

<D
X>
D
CM
o
in
co
CM
O)
O'

o
6
CM
00
o
o
o

116A21/TS Clear—Traffic Signal. Rated 1280

watts: 114 (57)

CM
in
CO
CM
•M-

o
6
o>
is
CM
00
o
o
o

116A21/TS Clear—Traffic Signal. Rated 1280

watts: 114 (57)

CO
o
CO
GO
CM
o-

o
6
o>
CM
oo
O
CM

o
O
00
o

116A21/TS Clear—Traffic Signal. Rated

watts: 114 (57)

<
t=

s
V)
CO
CM
o-

6
CD
CO
o
o
o

★PAR-64 Screw 120PAR 13 95 PAR—Transmissomete*—

Terminal Narrow Spotlight

CO
CM
O-

CO
CM

120PAR/1 13.95 PAR — Narrow Spotlight

CM
in
in
m
CM
CO
CM

★ PAR-56 120PAR56VNSP PAR — Very Narrow Spotlight

373
CM
in
in
in
CM
O'

CD
CM

120PAR56MFL PAR — Medium Floodlight

CM
in
in
in
•M-

CM
6 6 6 6
CD
CM
o o o o
o o o o
o o o O

120PAR56WFL PAR — Wide Floodlight

 o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
• CM an CO CO 00 o> 00 00 CO 00 00 00 CO •—
* • 00 00 GO r- 00 00 r^- r- r- CO I CO
' CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

+
o o o o O O o O O O O o o O O O
8 o o to to to to «o to LO to to in U) O O
ID to § to r-» r- r- r- r- r- to to
to CM CM

.
Ss 5s 5^
CM ■^r o- •m- o- ■o- O' M- M-

:£
CO CO to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to

CD co
CO 00 CO 00 to to to to to to to
CO CO co CO CO
O) *7 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
6 6 6 C) 6
o o 6 o o o o o o o u o o u u o u u

O O o o o o o o o O o O O O O CM
to to CM CM co CM to co CM to to to to to to to to r^*
—
___ ___
to to to 4.
o- •O' k_ d
5 . to to © ©
a> CD © © CO
© o- CO
<-> CD C c w c t_
(0 "O XJ
-O -J Zi Q _J _j © Q © ©
X> c © C UJ to to •D x>
r to to c D * T M-
'—'
c
o c CC . cc
CO o o < o O 05
'—> *—' 1 ©
c
©
c
N X X
(A a ■O CO cpl CO CO C3| UJ UJ _
a. a: -C -C CD
k-
-C 1 1 1 _J _J •— 1
1
| -r-
O) CT O) 1 1 UJ 1 1 CO UJ
S O sz — ■O -O O *0 -O 1 O
to to
"O u ~o XJ X)
w 'A- 0) © ©
1 ¥
© © © © ©
2 Cl a CL (0 © © © jf O O to to to © © ^
CO CO W_ __ CO o o o o CO CO o o O o o «>
w_ k_ k_ -c _*
2 * U.
^ o
Li. li_ uZ ul ul ul ^
1 1 o *7 1 ^ 1 1 -4
<D © © © © > ° © k_ © © © k- © z © CM
© (0 CO £ ■O •O CL *o *o © © "O TO u © © ■O ^ T3
© 0) ® | i<V © © © © © ©
w ’© O 5fr V) to © © ©
8 _c _c JC _c _c _c o _C O
o O Hi O-o S CM CO CM O o O O

_
r^- CO O r- r- CM o> a> CM r- CO o> to to
to to to CM <sr to to to to to to to to CO to
co CM to
s

to
CM

o o to o o o to o o o o o to o o O o o
CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CM CM CO CM CM CO CM CO CM CM
»— *— *-

CL
s
CL
sc
CL

SC * CM
a. CL
**
CM CM

o
CO
o -J o> O)
a O O) a>
•J •J
to 0.
to $ o o CO CO CO ?? >
(9 o
?
EC < < < < < <
1—
<
CM
<
CM
<
CM
<
CM
<
CM
<
CM
<
CM
<
to to to to O o o o O O o o o o O c o O
CM CM CM CM to to to to to to to to to to to to to to
*— •* *“
”

eS
l|
o «^
(0 to 5 co la (0

*
in
CM

374
 09

cd
is

o
6
(O
150A23/99 130 .79 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ 2500 2310
ice (11)
09

04
o
150A23/99CL .72 Clear—Extended Service (11) CC-6 2500 2310
| 98' 09
150A23/99CL 130 Clear—Extended Service (11) CC-6 2500 2310

•M-

CD CD to
Medium 150A/RS 120 1.12 Inside Frosted—Rough Service 24 C-17 1000
(11)

2s
■<T

in
150A/RS 125-130 1.33 Inside Frosted—Rough Service 24 C-17 1000
(11)
09
CM
o

in
CD
CO

150 120 •64 Inside Frosted (11) C-9 750

szi-su 09
^Medium 150PS25/IF/TF 1.45 Inside Frosted —TUFF-SKIN (44) C-9 | 1000
09

r-
CM
CD
CO
o

Medium 150 125 Inside Frosted (11) C-9 750

LL 09
150 130 Inside Frosted (11) C-9 750 2680
150/CL 120 Clear (11) C-9 750 2680

r- CO
in
CD CD
o o
150/CL 130 Clear (11) C-9 750 2680
09

◄
E

to *o
is is is is is is is
CD CD CD CD CD CD CD
in in in in in

150/99 120 .68 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ C-9 2500 2300

ice (11)
89
is
CD
in

150/99 24PK 120 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ 120 C-9 2500 2300
ice. 24-Pack (11)
09
s;

CO
CM
CD
in

150/99 130 Inside Frosted—Extended Serv¬ C-9 2500 2300

ice (11)

r-
CD
o

150/99CL 120 Clear—Extended Service (11) C-9 2500 2300

S8
CO

150/99CL 130 Clear—Extended Service (11) 60 C-9 2500

09
is is i£
CM CM
o CO

1^
CD CD CD
in in in
o o

00
6

Medium 150/RS 120 Inside Frosted—Rough Service 1000

(11)
is

CM
CD
in

150/RS 24PK 120 1.18 Inside Frosted—Rough Service. C-17 1000 2160
24-Pack (11)
09
i£
CD
•

5
E
in
CM
m

4
3
150/RS/TF 1.99 Inside Frosted—Rough Service C-17 1000
TUFF-SKIN (83)
09
i£
in

CM
CD

Medium 150/RS 125-130 Inside Frosted—Rough Service C-17 1000 2160

(11)
is
CD
in

CM
150/RS 24PK 125-130 Inside Frosted—Rough Service. 72 C-17 1000 2160
24-Pack (11)

375
 ___INCANDESCENT LAMPS_
Approx. DESCRIPTION Std. Fl. . M. L. Approx. Approx.

376
Bulb Base Lamp Ordering Code Volts List Pkg. r"arT'8nt q. C. Hours Initial
_L___l __ Price _Qty. ue8lgn I L. 1 L. 1 Life |Lumens
150 WATTS (Continued)

E
T3
©
D
00
<o

«*■
150/CL/RS
A

120 Clear—Rough Service (11) I C-17 [ 1000 1

in
aS aS
aS

o o
150/CL/RS 125-130 1.42 Clear—Rough Service (11) C-17 11000 I

cb cb ib
in in in
150/VS 120 1.45 Inside Frosted—Vibration Serv¬ 24 C-9 1000 2400
_ ice (11)
SA/0SI
as
as

ib
in
125-130 1.74 Inside Frosted—Vibration Serv¬ 24 C-9 1000 2400
ice (11)

lO
as
<b
*

150/CL/VS 120 1.45 Clear—Vibration Service (11) C-9 1000

as

<o CO
I

150/CL/VS 125-130 1.74 Clear—Vibration Service (11) C-9 [1000 I

CO
150PS25/Y 115-125 .91 Yellow—Bug-Lite (11) C-9 1000 | 1560

CO
4

150/D 115-125 Inside Frosted—Daylight (11) C-9 1000

6-0

O
_i
00 CO
CO
o o o o o
;

£
115-125 Clear—Daylight (11) 1000
o>i

09

in §
o (0
ffl
00
O
ib ib cb cb cb
;S as
in in in in in in
as as as as as as
•

120 Inside Frosted—Silvered Bowl 1000 2370

(11,14)
09 0001'
as

cb
in

150/SB 125-130 1.42 Inside Frosted—Silvered Bowl C-9 2370

(11.14)

*
as
in
o
O
CO
CO
o

6
CO
CO
CO
;

S.C.Bay. 120 Clear—Spotlight (7,57) 2CC-8 200

9-00
o 04
in
a?
•

★PAR-38 Medium 150PAR/FL 120 2.60 PAR—Clear. Projector Flood¬ 2000 1740
Skirted light (14)
04
as
in

150PAR/FL PM 120 2.60 PAR—Clear—Projector Flood¬ CC-6 2000 1740

light PRICE MARKED (14)
04
in
•

A 150PAR/FL 125-130 3.12 PAR—Clear—Projector Flood¬ CC-6 2000 1740

light (14)
04
in
as
•

150PAR/FL PM 125-130 3.12 PAR—Clear—Projector Flood¬ CC-6 2000 1740

light PRICE MARKED (14)

04
04
in
as

o
:

150PAR/WFL 2.60 PAR—Projector Wide Floodlight CC-6 2000

(14)
CM
as
in
-

150PAR/WFL 125-130 3.12 PAR—Projector Wide Floodlight CC-6 2000

(14)
 ♦ Now classified as Stage/Studio Lamp type For information on the complete line of Stage/Studio Lamps, consult your General Electric
o o o o O O © o o O o O
O' O' O' o* T ■<? O' • * •
N N r- r- r- r^.
• : :

§ 2 g g g g g g g g g g
o 8
O o o o 25 25 Q o o o Q Q Q 0
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

; ;
• • • • • • • • • '

• e
is Js Ss is
© © tA to LA LA LA © O' © © ©

«?
© up up up co
i <9 © ©
<9
© to CO up up
a 6 6 6 6 V o 6 6 o 6 C) 6 <> 0
o o u o o o o o o o o 0 0 0 0

Stage/Studio Lamp supplier or the nearest GE Lamp Sales District Office or Distribution Center*
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

•« 2,
«-» <>, *-•
JZ JZ O O
a>
■o
O)
w. w.
a
CO
a
CO
CL
CO
O O
CL
—
O) O)
~
Q.
CD
Q.
CD 1 ! 1 1
o O w V w. w O' o o O O) o> o>
o O O 3 o 2
o o O 3 o O
Li- u. © O O CD CD © © t5 X
5 Q .© o Q 0 O ^
o' o' ©^ .
1 i
o
® 2
O
*2 i 1 o O h 0 ^ O 05
E F <£ a 9* k_ 9 sc F E CL f CL u- rr
© © CL CL CC CL a oc © ©
© © O o I 1 < 1 i < © © o O b w O O' 0 C-
© ©
CD ap
a® Q CO Is 1 Is m CO
CL CL b ^ b c
^ ® ©, ©
"o ~~O la fa © 2 ui © 2 ui "5 1 E E ® -D
o r*' o C' o O ~ ® o ® o o r*' o O f O 2 ^ 0 3 P "
of: o £ o -§, o-S) CD?* °E o S' op: of: (J 00 O So 0. < a. to aO
1 1 1/5 1 i 1 =5 1 s 1 £, LA* LA* 1 Hi 1 a 1 2 1 2 1 2
DC". cc g oc 2 cc r a: cc r DC £ oc J2- OC V OC P oc -g cc -g oc -g
< z < ^ < ° < <J < O) < CD < O) < CD < ^ < v < m < O) < £ < ~ < ^
CL 3 Q- C, Q. Lu CL Ll. CL ^ CL — Q. ~ Q- CL w Q. w Q ~ CL -3 CL D CL O □- a

O o © in O O CM CM O O © © © © ©
o M- »- © © © © © ©
CO CO CM CM CO CO r*^ o f CO © cb CO

o o o o © O © © ©
CO CO © co 1 CO 1 CO CM CM CM
*— *— *■“ »“
o © o © O O © LA © LA o LA © © ©
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM , CM ; CM CM CM

s s ;
j
a. CL

-J -J CL Q.
u. U. ’ •
CD CD < m O
CM CM —J -J CM CM
\ u. U. a. CD CD —1 -J -J
m CO CO cd CD CD CD © CO © L. U. U.
eo 8 N © 3
ac cc cc cc cc CC CC CC cc K OC CC OC CC OC
< < < < < < < < < < < < < < <
CL flL CL CL CL CL CL a. CL CL CL Sl a. a.
© © §5 0

1
o © © © ©

1
O O © O
© © to LA LA LA © © © © © © ©
2 2
E c £ "O E 2 -0
3 2 3 © 3 o> 3 ©
-O CL "6 tr ■Q O c x r
© © X) O © v
* ©
-2 -O 5 CD Stool S to
CO

377
 £ » 0 . O 0
r*- f^-
Sc 1 . . e CD CD
< -J *“
X m
2 I ® O o O o o o o o O O O 0 O )
o O o o o o o o o O 0 O \
O o o o o o o o o o 00 0 O
<x CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM J

—• O —i : • - • ■ :

5dJ
in in in in in in in CO o- in CO CO CO

' C c
CO CO CO CO CO CO co co co cn CO
• CO *9
©CO O 6 6 6 6 6 6 *7 •7 6 O
iZa o o o o o o o o 6 0 6 0 0 !
CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM O’ !
2?^
«o.O w~ CM CM

,_s C
t OOj ,$
•o
o>“i ■O
l | co (0
1 1
*-> 1
4-*
1 1 05 £ r 0 ■g«I
-C JO X c ^ C 0 w X - CO 0
O)_ g> -C -C ~a
05 05 o> 05 O) 0 3 6 5 n E 0 SCN'
■O >

v. prongs up or o

i: locating lug u|
t lamp by bulb ri
■D

Clear—Mine. B

Clear—Mine. B
DESCRIPTION

o O 05 _c

CO
o ^ 2 ^ o
w. r-
o ^
o? o
a. r^- CL
U. 05 U. TT CO^r
k_ v— w®
O Cr
O
If
w_ r-
O 05 O
CL _ cl r^~
CO 05 C0 tj- o
o s-'
E
o
o
0
E
0
0
7"
J.O
-c ^ .H
?o\
~o ..
—
?
\
a. 2 ^ 2 w 2 2
o r\ o ^ o v O w o c o r\ o £ —I
2 0
_j 0 in/
S o ^ 0 o -o <D Q) a> a> 05 05 o 05
c
0 § CP O CO )
c Li- CM*
2 2 * ei 2 E o _o o 2 s’. 213 w CM •
a tr Ql > CL < CL CD clO cl tr CL > 2 r 0 O w|
1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1^ 1 .9 I P 0 11, O Q) n-gi1
Dich

Dich

PAR-

Supp
PAR-
Dich

Dich

Dich

posit
Dich
PAR

Dich

posit
PAR

PAR

PAR

PAR

PAR

PAR

PAR
light

— 05 — C/5 !
PAR

light
o 13 ©j 0 2
CO (rL'ccLi
Approx.

lO in in
Price

m m in in in O O 0 •M-
List

in in in in in in in CM r» CO 05
00 ad CO 00 00 ob ob CO CO O)
s

in in in in in in m o o
£ N CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CO CO
*" *" *“ w~~
> in in in in in in in 6 o 0 in 0
CM CM CM CM CM
——

o ••
O*
•c oc >- < m C3 oc > *
• "S* •v.
—i -J CL CL CL CL CL CO
"8
o u. u. <0 <0 m co CO CO
*s» N \ \ < * *
oc OC OC OC OC OC oc oc OC u. \ u.
E -o < < < <
< < < < < 5 5 M ^
■J © CL CL CL CL CL CL CL CL CL CL Q. CC
3 O O O o O o o © o O 0
C in in in in in in in in
♦*
c
Side Prong
Medium

Terminal

o
Terminal
Medium
Skirted

▲ Medium
Medium

Skirted
Screw
Base

o
Screw

CO
t

-O
00 1
i
o < m _L
n
i
CO
•M-
CC
<
CO
c?
OC
<
CO
O’
cr
<
O
O’
IS CL CL CL CL oc
\JJ + * +
*-

378
 *
CL
’'T
o
CM
| 20

o
CM
C\J

(J
O
<o
CD
o
o
o
150R/3FL Reflector Floodlight — I F. (21)

^r T
CM
CD
150R/3FL 125-130 5.15 Reflector Floodlight—I F. (21) CC-6 2000
09 l

CD
150R/SP 120 Reflector Spotlight — Light I F. 24 CC-6 2000 1870
(22.35)

CD
150R/SP 125-130 1.94 Reflector Spotlight — Light I.F. 24 CC-6 2000 1870
(22,35)

2 «cf
■'T
CM
CD
-
150R/A 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Amber (22,35) CC-6 2000

/
in
CL
CD

O
CM
o

\
CD
o
115-125 2.90 Reflector — Blue (22,35) 24 CC-6 o

CM
CD
150R/BW 115-125 2 90 Reflector—Blue White (22,35) CC-6 2000

CD
150R/G 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Green (22,35) 24 CC-6 2000

in
CM
ID
CM
'T
CD
CM
o
o
o

150R/PK 2.90 Reflector —Pink (22,35) CC-6

CD
2?
150R/R 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Red (22,35) 24 CC-6 2000

o
CD
CM

6
to
o
o
o

150R/Y 115-125 2.90 Reflector—Yellow (22,35) 24

09
co
-

150P25/2 120 3.56 Clear—Spotlight. Hard glass C-5 200

button
09
•'T

150P25/2SB 120 4.10 Clear—Spotlight. Silvered Bowl. C-5 200

Hard glass button
CO

150P25/8 120 3.78 Medium Inside Frosted — Spot¬ 60 C-5 200

light. Hard glass button
09
O’
2S
-

150P25/8SB 120 4.64 Medium Inside Frosted—Spot¬ C-5 200

light. Silvered Bowl. Hard glass
button
09
O-
CM

CO
o
o

150P25/10 120 3.78 Light Inside Frosted — Spotlight. C-5 200

Hard glass button
09
■'T
CO
CM
o
O

150P25/10 125-130 4.59 Light Inside Frosted — Spotlight. C-5 2100

Hard glass button

in
O
Q.
CM
in
CD

o
CO
2S

V
120 4.64 Light Inside Frosted — Spotlight. 60 C-5 | 200

Silvered Bowl. Hard glass button

CM
o
CD
CO

150P25/15 3.40 Clear—Train Headlight (57) C-5 500 1920.

(0
o
CD
o O
CD
CD

150PS30/1 120 1.35 Clear—Silvered Neck C-9 1000

*
09 8

<
CE
C?
CD
CO
CM
CM

Medium 150PAR38 PAR—Clear—Mine. Burning CC-8 1000

Side Prong position: prongs up or down (58)

379
 K_ |
4 V i * «
o £ •» * « -* ‘A
9- c 5 • • * ‘ '*
< —!

i § • o o O o o
o o o 8 o o
GO o o ID O CM CM
<x-1 CM

«
-i O —i r-
* ID ID ID CD r-

;£
3EO-i CO CD CD CO 00 o> o>

c c
0 09 < <
00 < < < < r-
« 0 r*»
6 6 O
£° o 6 6 6 6 CM CM

CM o o o o ”T D-
*“ CD CD (D CD CM CM
»aO

'
73
0 , CD <D
0 p 0 d-
X
SI 0 o
0 O) c ui
_> 0
z a -X 15 ^ 32
o o O o
Q.
O 4- C AC
o <
1— E p 0 z 73 ZL
Q. o CO © ^
CO
(A GC o V—^ 73
15 5 & I* o
a. o ~o 0 I UJ
o
(0
J
0
TJ
0
0
73 _>
o
73
73
0
^
i
x> o
0~ ‘VS 73 X>£
<D ^ 0 ,
0 ec
Ui C 0 r—V
c U) « g « 2;
o S o ™
O o p 0 O 4J O “• _ Q-
CO 2 H
5 X
lu LU Ll. 0 Lu 0
1 1 1 > 0 — ^. °
1 0 u. k- k_ 0 0 <o a) .9 0 .9
73 0 0 0 !d -2 73 P CL
o 4p x: 0 0 0 i °r 5 £ 5 £
CO ® s to a o CM 0 0 CO 0
M a — o O o O co ^ CO CO - o o -£(0 E CO

K m
to CM CO CD -M- ID
2 to P cm § O © ID © O
< Q.*T C
CD V
O *“ *“

O o ©
90 M3 ID
CM CM CM
O © O © © ©
CM CD CO CD CD eM CM
CO CM CM CM CM

1
o
o*
c
X

1 lu
-J
o N -J
£ ID ID a O
a. CM CM CD O
E K © §
CO <0 © m
© CL a. CL
© o O © © ©
& ID ID ID ID ID
C IO ID
w

c _ i=
o 0 E E < Q
3 0
i
GO
o
s—* si 0
3
73
®
$
-*-•

,9
£
_
D
CD
w *83 5
O O (0
§
◄ HP
t t
6
ID O in
JO £ 5?
CM CD PH 8 5
a
GO o
M*
""
<
a
*
CO
a.
<0
Q.
o
SO
w
£L s
fi

380
381
 ___INCANDESCENT LAMPS

382
Approx- DESCRIPTION Std. L. M I L. Iadotox Iadotm
Bulb Base Lamp Ordering Code Volts List Pkg. Filament Q c H^r,
___ Prica _Qty. Del,l9n L. | Life |Lumens
200 WATTS (continued)
 A Medium 200/99_1230-250 I 1.24 (Clear—Extended Service (11) 60 I C-7A I 8'/.. I 6 2500
Inside Frosted—Extended 200/99IF 230-250 1.24 60 C-7A B'A, 6 2500
_Service (11)
PS-30 Medium 1 200PS30/RS |250 1.56 Clear—Rough Service (11)_60 C-9 WA, 6 1000

240 WATTS

o
2
CO
O
Q.

CO K—
O <D
||
CO
CL w

■A
o
*
<
t
co
c

!
0)

^ c
Q o
X CD
— CN
c r7
0 ^

_0 C-
Q->*
O CD
CO "3-
<D —.

o
_Q) CO
co ^ 7
5
co
CD
~o
0

<D 0
*£: o
o £
4-

O C, 0C CO CL CL
0 — 0 oc
~ Z 7 <
c a? C CC
co UJ
co «■

a) q
0) CO
X CD*
■O ^

> 2o 2 o
o 2? O UJ O LU
05
1 <
I c
£ *
I
1

_0
o
2
a:
0
in
o
o
o
+

_
CL -O
0 O
a.
cc
W
o
l<
0 s
x Q
0 CD
co-

0 w
I ^

0 v
2 CO
xj tr
O 0
E -D
o co
2 *

IS
_0 tt
o ^

♦ Now classified as Stage/Studio Lamp type. For information on the complete line of Stage/Studio Lamps, consult your General Electric

383
Stage/Studio Lamp supplier or the nearest GE Lamp Sales District Office or Distribution Center.
 u
UJ
z
</>
3
to
Approx. DESCRIPTION Approx. Approx.

**

384
i
Bulb Lamp Ordering Coda Volts List Hours Initial

J*
li
so-i
—i <J —i
Price

ill
Life Lumen*

$
§
E
*
04
♦
04
CO
25
CO
,*

Medium 250T12/8 120 Clear—Spotlight (52) C-13 800

Prefocus
\ 008 |

2
E

4
■§
3
04
25
in
CO
•

T-14 250T14/1 120 $6.25 Clear—Lighthouse (1) C-5

04
o
♦

i
8
in
04
•Sn
•
Medium 250T20/47 120
V

Clear—Spotlight. Burn base C-13 200

Prefocus down to horizontal

◄
®
E
■o
D
CM
CO
co
o
CO

P-25 250P25 3.45 Clear—Locomotive Headlight(13) C-5A 1 500 1i 4650

CM
*
s

CO
in
§
■f,

Medium 250P25/22 Clear-Locomotive Headlight (13) 60 C-5A 500

Prefocus _1_

f
CO

i
i
i

CM
©
CD
CO
CO
O
O
CO
in
•

PS-25 Medium 300M Clear—Bonus Line (11) 750 6360

CO
«•

300M 125-130 Clear—Bonus Line (11) CC-8 750 6360

CO

s
CO
m

300M/IF Inside Frosted—Bonus Line (11) CC-8 750 6360

CO
cb cb cb cb
m
in
o

300M/IF 125-130 1 Inside Frosted—Bonus Line (11) CC-8 6360

CM
m

E
o
CO
o o o o o
GO
co

4
2
3
*
300M/99 Clear—Extended Service (11) C-9 2500 ; 5190
CM

8
8 CO s © S
00
CO

300M/99 24PK Clear—Extended Service C-9 2500 5190

24-Pack (11)

CM
00
CO

300M/99 125-130 Clear—Extended Service (11) C-9 2500 5190

CM
co CO
o o
00
CO

o
s
:

300M/99IF Inside Frosted—Extended C-9 2500

Service (11)

iO-—®
o>•

CM
m
CM
co
co

o
p
O
*

300M/99IF 24PK Inside Frosted—Extended 2500

Service 24-Pack (11)

CM
co
o
oo
CO
i

300M/99IF 125-130 Inside Frosted—Extended C-9 2500

Service (11)
00

CM
CO

Medium 300M/PS30 Clear (11) C-9 750 6110

00

CM
co

300M/PS30/IF Inside Frosted (11) C-9 750 6110

6-0
00

CM
© © in
300M/PS30/IF Inside Frosted (11) 750 6110
CO CO CO co
o o o o
r-

00 00 r- in
oo
co co
m
o

cq CD p p

8
300M/PS30/IF Inside Frosted (11) C-9 i 6110
 ♦ Now classified as Stage/Studio Lamp type. For information on the complete line of Stage/Studio Lamps, consult your General Electric

385
Stage/Studio Lamp supplier or the nearest GE Lamp Sales District Office or Distribution Center.
co
a.
S
3
o
to

386
 o o o O o o
LO CD) CD) O o o
co 00 CO * * ■'D 00 00
CO 'T CO CD CD

+ + +
o O o o o o o o o o o o O o o o O O o
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o O O o
o o o in o o o o a) o o o o o o o CM 00 00
CM *“ * *“ CM CM CM in in in in

is
CM CO fs. IS. rs rs rs. in CO CO CO
•*

is is is is i£ iS i^ ^s is is is
rs co CO m 00 CD) CD) CD CD CD rs is rs rs rs rs in in in

CM N
co CO < < < < < < < < <
rs rs rs CL

i_
rs. rs.
C-5

rs rs-

C-9

C-5
|S

C-9
*7 *7 rs O) in in
6 o E
o X a o 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 ra
)

.
[
CM
C\l CM o o 'T
CM CM CM
o-
CM CM CM CM
■'T M-
CM
o o o o
co CO CM CM CM to CD CD
3
3
,-v _
CO CO O') CO <55
rs rs rs IS \
X >—* JZ
-
3
3 3
0) w.
CL Q. CD Cl)
g> co CO 3 s
3 3
"D © to
to 3
2 3
O) © © Li- Ll. 3 ■o "D
_J
CO
©
CO
©
©
©
O
>
to
3 *o _c C “<3
■O rs rs o c
-O -Q X T T rs
© in in o
3
c c ©
> 3 2
c
1 ” 1 in CD Z.
CD CD "O
3 3 ~o 1 -o'? -O ^ 3 3
CO CO O © "O © © O) CD
T3 3 3 g>
o x> ~o E "O C o o © © 2 © © &
Q.
2 © © © © o o o ©^
u _c C 1
CO <0 CO o 00 X X Li_ I s CO
7" o
CL o _o qQ
o o —I w- X
O
O O ^ o O x
if) X X
o
x x X
o
1? O — o ©
1 ©
O °
© 1
© 1 O O © o 1 l 1
o co ©
© © © _© _© © ^ ^ _© 0 © © © © o
© rs
TJ ~o © ^ © © *o
O CD vC
CO CO
© fs. © © © CO © © © © © 3 CD 3 3 i © © ©
x $2 _c _o o !£. a u u u u X X O !£. x 3 X 1 x 1 u a o
o o r>. rs o o oo ■<r o o in O
§ y
o o O) CO CO
CO CO CO CM — co CO CD CM 00 ♦ rs in
CO CO — CM — — CM rs fsi CM CO in co
°Q
o in m in m
E 8
o o
CO in in CM CM CM CM o ©
«— CM CM •— *-
o © in O O o o 6 rs o rs in in in in O o o “ CL
CM CM CM o in in in in CO rs CO rs •— •— •— CM CM CO - E
CO CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM — ° CO

Q.O
>> **
~ CO
Q. S?
| s
© 2
o
Q. —1 _J X —1
TO .
CO V CL u. Li. \ 2 o
CO o o in CO CO o o o o CO X X
V. CO X CDa> M 'S CO ^r \ \
04 CM CM
DC b- »— a. 2 5 ^s 'S. DC cc O X X X o O O
0) -=
o o o o o © o o o O O o in in in in o o o
o o o o o o o o o o o o rs rs rs r- o o o O) s
CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO co CO co co *T
CO w
CL
F E I F E ~o E -o E CO
CO
p
t
.2 CO 3 p © 3 2 © 3
3 CO
CD u o II T> xj tr CD 3 s 3
©
*o —•
O © n © © © © v O © v © o
5 5m 5a 5 5 co 5 (0 5m V) 5
◄ 4 •4 5?
£ co D.

< < © CO
O^©
PS-3Q
PS-35

$ 5
G-30
G-30

o o > o>
R-40

o
P-25

TT
o O'
CM
in o o 2
X h- DC rs DC o Z CO
* * * n *

387
388
J?
c c

<o S
® g>

to a O
2cU

"2 j?|>
PS-35 ▲Mogul 500

CM
120 1 Clear—Bonus Line (46) 1 CC-8 1 1000 110850
500 125 :

r*. r*»

£ £
1.59 j Clear—Bonus Line (46) 24 CC-8 1000 10850

3
r*-
**
M-
500

CM
1 Clear (46) CC-8 1000 10850
| 500/IF

CM
[l20

£
j 1.51 [inside Frosted—Bonus Line (46) CC-8 1000 10850

O8
3
500/IF

CM
^r
CD
1 1.81 [inside Frosted—Bonus Line (46) CC-8 1000 10850

10
CO
PS- 40 0066

CM
500PS40 120 a
r*» r" r-

| Clear (11) C-9 1000

0066 |
500PS40 125 1 1-72 | Clear (11) 24 I C-9 1000

r-
v-
0066

op
0
0)
(D
500PS40
£ £

130 24 C-9 1000

CM
CO
0066

CM
| 500PS40/IF
o>

120 [inside Frosted (11) C-9 1000

0066
500PS40/IF
CD
r*.

125 1.78 Inside Frosted (11) 24 C-9 1000

o*
0066
M-
CM
500PS40/IF
CD

130 1.94 [inside Frosted (11) C-9 1000

’’T
CM

500/99
CD
*
r*-

120 1.83 Clear—Extended Service (11) C-9 2500 9070

—
CD

500/99 130 | 2.20 | Clear—Extended Service (11) 24 C-9 2500 9070

CD

500/99IF 120 1.94 Inside Frosted—Extended 24 C-9 2500 9070

Service (11)

3
CD
t".

500/99IF
CD
o
r-»
o

2.33 Inside Frosted—Extended 24 C-9 2500

Service (11)
9ZZ

CM
©
CD
1^

500/RS Clear—Rough Service (11)

:

24 C-9 1000
CM
■'T
CD

500/RS 125-130 j
;

2.72 | Clear—Rough Service (11) C-9 1000

CD

500/SBIF 120 2.86 Inside Frosted—Silvered Bowl 24 C-9 1000 9530

Burn base up (14) *
'T
CM
CD
f*.

500/SBIF 130 3.43 Inside Frosted—Silvered Bowl. C-9 1000 9530

Burn base up (14)
09
G-30 Medium
in

500G30/1 115-125 2.53 Clear—Infrared. Industrial C-7A

j

5000+
Skirted (6,14,16)
 NT

6
o
04
o
If)
▲ Mogul

CD
o
500G/FL

nt
CM
up
6
it
'T
it
00
o
[Clear—Floodlight (57)

o
1 9300
★PAR-64 Extended 500PAR64/NSP

CNJ
120

CO
16.20 PAR — Narrow Spotlight (18,59) CC-13 2000
Moqul
500PAR64/NSP |

CNJ
125-130

CO
CNJ
19.40

o
§
End PAR — Narrow Spotlight (18,59) CC-13
500PAR64/MFL

CNJ
120

co
Prong 16.20 PAR — Medium Floodlight (18,59) CC-13 2000
500PAR64/MFL

CNJ
CO
125-130

CNJ
O
19.40

8
■

PAR — Medium Floodlight (18,59) CC-13

500PAR64/WFL

CNJ
120 1

CO
16.20 PAR — Wide Floodlight (18,59) CC-13 2000
500PAR64/WFL

CNJ
1

CO
125-130 | 19.40 PAR—Wide Floodlight (18,59) CC-13 2000
★R-40 ▲ Mogul 500R/3FL

CNJ
'T
r*»
120

it
5.75 Reflector Floodlight—I F. |CC-2V] 2000 6500
Collector Grid (24.33) (Horlz. |
069
500R/3FL 125-130

it
Reflector Floodlight — I F. 24 [CC-2V| 2000 6500
Collector Grid (24.33) moriz. 1
099
500R/3FL/MS 120 Reflector Floodlight—I.F. it
:

24
-

A C-7A 1000
Mill Service (24)
500R/3FL/MS
r-
<

6
r-
it

125-130 8.15
<

Reflector Floodlight—I.F. 24 1000

Mill Service (24)
500R/3SP
6
CV
>

120
it

5.75 Reflector Spotlight — Light I.F. 24

O X
2000 6500
N

Collector Grid (24,33)

R-52 500R52
CNJ

120
it
CNJ
o

6.25
o
o

Reflector High Bay—Light I.F, C-7A 7600

Collector Grid (19,22)
500R52
CNJ
<

125-130 7.50 Reflector High Bay—Light I.F. 2000 7600

Collector Grid (19,22)
★T-20 Medium 500T20/13
CNJ
it

120
CO

14.85 Clear—Airway Beacon (1) C-13B 500 10300

Bipost 500T20/13
087.1
CNJ
it

130
CO

Clear—Airway Beacon (1) C-13B 500 10300

500T20/50 0086
CNJ
■'T

CD
it

120 11.60 Inside Frosted Burn base up (73) C-13 1000

| 06X1
CNJ

500T20/50
CD
it

125-130 |
CD
00
o
O

Inside Frosted. Burn base up (73) C-13 1000

Medium

CO
CO
o
CNJ
NT

500T20/49
ID
it
CNJ

120 Clear—Marine Fire Detector. C-13D 200

Prefocus Burn base down

*
h-
CM
♦
CNJ

500T12/8
CD

|
it
CO
it

120
00
o
o

Clear—Spotlight (8,52) C-13D

♦
| 500T12/9 120
CO
it

Clear—Spotlight (8,52) 24 C-13D 6’/. I 200 11000

*
h-
■<r
♦
Medium 500T14/7
CD
it
O'

120
00
O
O

Clear—Spotlight (17,52) 24 C-13D

Bipost
500T14/8 ♦
it
NT

CD

120 Clear—Spotlight (17.52) 24 C-13D 200

389
♦ Now classified as Stage/Studio Lamp type For information on the complete line of Stage/Studio Lamps, consult your General Electric
Stage/Studio Lamp supplier or the nearest GE Lamp Sales District Office or Distribution Center
 Avg. Life
Approx. Lumen*
Approx.

Initial at 40%

895'
O o
Lumens Rated
m

715

1155
1155

250

1000

1450
705

325

650

1450
O) o> LO - c
i

45
00 00 h- :

820

1075

1300
850

1250
1075

810

340
450

995

1700
1850
006

450
08

1700
o
CO
•
Approx.
Hours

o o
0006

0006

0006
o

0006
0006
0006

7500
7500
0006
0006
0006
0006
0006
0006

0006

7500
Life

o o CO o
o
o o CO LA
I
O) O) r^
c
S
T3 O) >* o ■M- ■<r T Tf M- TT
24

•<3- •M-

24
JC. CM FT
fi£6 m CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM s CM CM CM CM cv
Jm
S>

Cool White—Appliance Service

c
DeLuxe Warm White. Improved
Color. 6-Pack PRICE MARKED

Filter 6 Pack PRICE MARKED

9
Natural (Formerly Soft White-

Cool White—D C. Operation

Q.
Chroma 50—Chromaline".

Black Light Blue. Integral

-2
DESCRIPTION

Black Light. 6-Pack

Cool White. 6-Pack

Plant Light. 6-Pack
*i
o JC
Natural). 6-Pack

c o
CO Green. 6-Pack
• CL
Gold. 6-Pack
JC
Blue. 6-Pack
Warm White

Pink. 6-Pack
Red. 6-Pack

Cool White
CD
E
5000°K.

JZ JZ
1 O) O)
White

">% ">*
V <0 CO
O Q

o
K a> 3 IO o o o o V1 m m m in in in in IA o
l! </> O ■D CM in CO in m f?1
« 8 <q CM CM CM CMCM 7 § M" M- i o>
■o
_
CM CM CM CO CO CO CO CM CM
PREHEAT FLUORESCENT LAMPS

CO CM «M
. 2
£ ",
6PK PM

6PK

6PK PM

TO
6PK

6PK
6PK
6PK

6PK
6PK
6PK

c X X
CL Q.
•
CD CO
• c
o.
l o
o» M
e
r to CO <I 00 \1 ®
c x CM CM
•
o CD
51
£ 3 in O
i -J * -J -J 5 3 |^| 5
a. Q.
V_^
Q Q 5 3 O z Q. CD o o CL cc CO CD o o o o
—. \
E CM £ CM CM CM CM a CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
-i d> h- H t- 1“ H- h- c h- £ i- h-
c fe © O & o O 5 O O S O o O O o i in in
.2 CM CM CM CM CM CM CM <SI CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
CL
u. U. Li. U. Li. U_ U. li. Li. Li. U. LA. Li. U. Li. Li.
£1 “■
E
a
•
M 2 a i E
JL L_
*0
CO 0) E
c
W
TJ ~ rr fliiii '
5 o!k_ 2 CO
o o.
Nominal

(Inches)
Length

ffi
24

00
26

• CM
£
c
K £
Bulb

T-12

<2
Nominal

Watts
Lamp

CM
20

25

390
o o o o o o in in o o o o O O o O o o o o o
in O' O' in r- r- r^- Is- o o l/) in r-. r^- in in o o co in CD 1
in in O' in in co 00 CO CO CM CM in in 00 00 CM CM CD CD O'
*“
*■ *■ *■ "

o in in o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o O O o o
o «— o in in o o CO 00 CM CM 1/5 in CO co o o co O' r- O'
o- 00 co CD 00 co CM CM m in U) in 00 00 w— «-* in in CD CO O' CO
CM *“ ’ CM CM *“

o o o o o o i O o o o o o o o o O o o O o o o o o
o o o o o o O O o o o o o o o o O o o o o o o o o
in in in in 1/5 in in in in in 1/5 in in in in in LO in in in m in in in
Is- h- r- r*» Is- r>- h- r- r^- r- r-~ r- r- r^- r-^ h- Is- r-
c

o
o' o- o- o- O O' o- O' o- O' O' O' O' O' O' O' O' O' o O' O' O' O' O'
CNJ CM CM CM CM CM «A CM CM CM CM CM CM CM IM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM

05
C
0)
© ©
Q. o £
E o © X X
_© © Q. ©
Q. 5
CD O)
co CD
© ©
JC -X © © (/) U) JC c
o E o X X
(0 o CO
aylight. 6-Pack

§ © ©
CL c CL |Q 5 Q Q. D
i © © o a
0) CD

lack Light B
CD CD E

liter. 6-Pack
^ * b b CL CD

iold. 6-Pack
lue. 6-Pack
w_

ink. 6-Pack
X o
White
CD k.
♦* © © © © CC O O
© §1
B X E lx. Li- CD X X
O)
o SI 05
x o X X
X
g> I §
X
05
§ w
5 § s X UJ
©
X
© ^
x UJ
X
O) ©
2 w.
"© ”© _J _J
/arm

0) D D ©
E D D o
O >> w o o 39 > C
> o (0 V X © ©
o CO x o o © © cc © © cc © © © © ©
Q o u Q § § o o Q Q. D Q 0. u Q 5 z z z z CL CD O Q. CO CO U-
Q
o
in m in in in 3 O in in o in o O in o o O O o o O in o
§ CD o ■o CO O) CO CO co CO O o o <P CO r* CM CM CM **.
0)
CO CM CO co CO co ■O CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CO CO CO CO CO
~
<A
* *0 s 2 x X X X X
Q_ C 0. CL 0. 0. a- Ox a. 0. CL
© co ** CO CO CO CO <o (£> co CO
C X *
CL Q.
CO co
O
(A
CO CO co ■o
CO CO co c
00 co co
co © X X
04 CO K X
5 \ £ 4C
S
CD
$ i $ 3 -j o )C —J
^5.
Q o o( Q 5
o o o o 5 $ o Q
"n.
I z z 0. CD o 0.
'—.
CD jo
CM CM CM CM CM CM \ N
CO GO GO CO CO 00 00 00 CO 00 00 00 00 00 co 00
O) h- h- K H* h- H- y- h- h- h- fc* l- y— H- y-
in in m in in in c o O O o o © O o O o o O o
© 8 8 CO CO CO 8 CO CO CO CO CO co CO CO CO CO co
u. li. li. Li. li. li. u. li. li.
u. li- i
El li. Q.
Li. Li.

a
©

Sf © Cl Mi
|e
(D Q.
55

Q «
- •
c
. i
X £
o 5
J; e
S:-0
3o
< i-

o
CO

391
 S "#'S^ o to o o o o in in cn in in
2 © o © —j cd 00 O' O' o o co CM CD to in
9- E * <o d) a) o GO 00 o o *— •— CO o o
Jr 3 t: cc > LO l/) 1/5 lO CM CM CM CM
< _j <o <

o o o o O O o o o o o o o
o in l/) in CD O CO CO lO CO co CO in
o- CO CO co co CO in O' CD co co CO in
CO in CO CO CM CM * *“ CM CM * *“

600 sOo 600 606

o w © o o o o O o o o o o o o o
Q- o n o o o o o o C5 o O o o o o
o o o o CD o O o o o o o o
CD CD CD CD in in lO in in LO in in in

-o o>>* CM CM CM CM o- o- O' o O' O' O' O' O'

to a O CM CM CM CM CM CM
O*

11
"O
©
> ©
o l|
“O Q. "©
© E c §
z w
o "©
D © o
h- © CO
Q. o jE O
CC © -E JZ >
o
© CL 5
§ O
to ©
r
© CO _ E
©
1
© +-* © © ©
co
o o o
-C <J 5 IE in
J- IE -E _ «•-N
Jc § o © © sz $ © v
5 O) 5 § X X O) © ©
© E Z D E E o
o V—> _J s o o b b
>N o o -J °
~JE CD o o © © o © (D .c 8 © ©
o Q § § CO o o a a o o S
a. zz
to to to to 5 to CM O O « to tn O m
O' CO CO CO
< CO O’ co <o O' V O' co oo
CO CO CO CO CM CM CM CM CM CM (N CM oi
m-
PREHEAT FLUORESCENT LAMPS

■O cc T3
c *:
< C
Q.
© I— © co
c CO C

o ‘5. a.
O o o ©
(A
a, (0
CO CO
•O < ■a CO CO QC cc to CO
c cc c cc CC \ CO CO cc QC
N X X CO
■s © ©
cc cc o QC
O £ $ t-
1—
c 5 5 5 5 \ N 5 tn N
a. o o s Q. o o o 5 a 5 a z
< \ N
r- r*- p- -C CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
a> *- $ O) b-
CM

h~ h- K H- h— K h- b- b-
c o
J> ©>
O O o 6 c © O O o O O O O
CD CD CD CO © CO
a.
CO
u.
CO CO CO
u.
CO 8 CO <o
a.
u. U. U. U. u. u. u. u_ u.
_
E
.2
© ® 0)E ©
4-*
A A
O CL
© © Q.
1.1 2 CO E 2 CD
© © ©

<0 Q I b
S o
f BJ
l«" * • ro
z-1^ s>
°! E
K t
S • ©
O)
o S CM
a •
Q. *0 © CL -5 O*
CO
JJ- ° © O- O b~
< H- >
©
< 6-
2 ft. « •D

111
Ijj
CD
CD
DC
w
«->
•
o
CO

392
 52
_
-p -T3 _
0
O o o LO to
0 O 0 _J CD *— o o
CD
“ $ Q- E ^ -co d)
CL 3 -
03 03 ■'T o C3
<J 0 CM CM CM C3 CO

~ cp - ■o
0

0 0 W 0 O
1/3
O
LO
O
LO
O
O
O
O
O o. - E CM CM CD C») 0-3
LU Q. O O Q-3 i3
<
CO 00 CM O') CO
CL CL
^0 o
0
c Is S 5 4— 4— 4— 4—
0) o O O O O O

O 5^0E s
o <x
j O
o
ID
O
o
C 3
C 3
1/3
C 3
C 3
C 3
O

O ■£
jL CO LO 1/3 ID
O)
r O D
c *-
~0 SZO S
o
o 0)> SI ■^r
CO CM CM
— £ 0 _g o Co 0.0 CM CM CM

®g
CL ® «) 03
o— c
E
-2
(0 03
— >
.o 5 °7
>. xi
0

E
h- h- X
-o <U — X X
3 2 _cp
o o
i—
O
O CO T X
Z X i—
CO
— 0
i-
o 0 X H X
40-WATT RAPID START—PREHEAT LAMPS

c CLI CO X >
CO
03
05
CO 5 Q- p X
o 0 Q. E
>
<
>
< X
o <
1—
o X
CL 1— > X
" 1
XI SZ O CD CD <
I c </> \ 1
1—
CD
>
<
1
0
0 fl3 2 CM
CO *— 0 1—
- 0 E I CD sz
CO CO 3 0 o -E sz
CL . £" 1

II 0 C0
§

o
£ -*
o
03

>>
0
E

15
~
-J <D03
w-
O
M- SZ
£ o
D
O N
O
o O 4-
U CD o
0 si.
§
0

CT_? 0 o
U
3 03 r» o O o
£ £ toCL CM
°- T3 •*t CD r- O' r-
ua 0
0 E
0

E t . _3 10 CO /—C"1
<Ar
o 0 3 ^ XJ
o
o
o« 0 £
3C
o
O x> JC 0 18-2^ -C 0
CO
c CL
CO o
0 a CO _Q c
a) co CT-o -O
">s ® CL
£ CE E c "§ I
-C o 0 O-
0 o
~0 _10 o CO
CO
V)
^ 03
<S 2? “ 5
<i3 ;> O 3 "O
C0>
IJ Oi c
0
£CD oTj 5” CD
_ a ° 5 CD CD
3 CC -C0 0 'V.
CD CD
£ -Si? sz £ \ §
$~ ^0 O T3 — 03 o o Q $ $
® 0 O O o O o
:g d| 0 ■m-

0 .§ 6
O £ I g CL
u. u. u. U. u.

I 2 —< »- -O CL-g _Q
3 >
03
to — i_
c < v -C0 —0 0 0E c CL 0
CO "O 0) 0
-J OT CO 0 fl
c c CC co s £ | =0 ™ -i
C 0
03 ,
I— £
X o *“ CO
Sra f5 " 9-dL
2 CO
O >, 0 XI
< § £ Xz D
c X -J o 0 -C 'c/T Q I
-?o co ig ? i C ~ a> ^ 0
CO —
0) QC ^ 0
■O £Q ? -£* g- < 0 E c -g
-S ®-£ i c
0) > ^ c jjj ^ £ r E
C < £ 0 -2 T) 0—i >< £
°K 3 o c 0 0 o ® 0
>,(/)
E CL 0O T3c >
CO
CL -o 0
0 E 0 CO
03 ~ Q. 0 CO0 CO £
'5 -S'
< H-©
03

O SZ
0 o 0 Jc
£ o j: )2 3 SI CO 2 a•
C/) JD h- E ^4- h~ ■3: .Eft N
i J>
|

393
 g c #-p * to
ii§i -i s
<3SC4

gs« 8
s = lI
<

x » i
2 ®
g> o 2
<x i oo
tog
£°. i
a> tn •b o»> £» §
IT
os 6 T3 T3
* © ©
>> V) > > X
C
21
CL
6 • £ CL
X
z S2 a 7®.
ill o o
■5^-2 z i ®
I <0
a• s£ sS
„ CM t- a *-•

«Z<
a to £
cc
o
go |®Q II i|o
CO |58!
17 s •-
® i O III
X 8x5
a -o
-c ® Oo
CO
a. Sjf
5^ 5S 8 3 « d UJ
II lls
X ■ UJ
_ O ? 8 3z 3f
2
On O <X o£ 9 Ji joO
go© ° °r O 00 O (0®< ® S tc c oc © o
(0 (N ^ O co O v O a a 2 o5i OO QUO.
LU £• *2 © 0^.0 s § 8
OC E
to
_
t;
±r
to
£
o a. —i co ♦*
§-3*=
co k- to E
£ *
LU I © _©
OC h x © "©
o OC
<
0)0-0
3
CO a>

o Wco
n
a. X
< *
oc O ( O
© ! a
X)
® £
Eco
< T> Cl) O)
5 « © ■-
— > «D
6 D ®5

E
&g J • 5 3 ii n
co
« »<
CO «-■
CO 11
II 5i
w 5 S
ifi g s I
CO X CO
C «. Q)
c C o
z-3^
K s
X |f
3
CO
< °
! a*
x
P E
E £
co N

lJ*

394
 O lO
8
CO
eg
8 8 8
eg—
Is
8
CO o>
8 8
eg

+ + +
00

Rated average life at 3 hours per start. 25,000 + hours life at 12 hours per start; 30,000 + hours on continuous burning.
I
iff
X .c £ CO CO
© ©
52 «»
_i a.
£ cc £ cc ^ CC
0)0
® UJ
o £
X ©fc! « H ♦“* J*
Z E oE o O
52 3 « CO 1 wI J8
-j
z 3-1 il ii >.52 ~>,52 -ii
S o “ _j _i
<
5
I Is |2
II
3 UJ
GOO
£
S I
■C T3 85
if E<
£5 £2
c
©
P £ Si
O)0-
5 O) £0
5 8 (D v -J JC —i JC
o,-*
— o er
o o
I? <0 to
k_
3 3
w.
CD CD
w. w O «*
w o - y -¥ o _z
■>, o I 2 §5 3 3
«-* *-» o« c TO o © o -=
to o. to "S |§ TO CO CD CD o CL _© Q. JO CL o <
*°r
Q to
^ <0
5 to S a 68 6 s zz zz O CO CL (O CO CO 05

to
to

X
a.
to

C5
a
o

395
 -C O)
«-* ai
O) — gigii
c ^
©' |l««l
— to

E ~
© 2
gsu § 8 8
9-5 E
m <0
® CL
g E
E to
x «
9 ? ®
s- °2
a.cr
< o
• ^r
T> O) >, ©
c ■o
-go WaO

t J° s *D
« nP -C ©
(0 /—n 3
. CO © © co -Q O «2
tj © CO c c co a) ± •-
Q. 8)^ c co _J D $2
<0
>"C\J
C z "7* to -) t30 "S w
• v|
cc o (0 o . co D . Q- o o
©— "O to z -O E W -c: tr
,9- °> ■D ? E ow o ■o
w S O O) ^ CO O'© o ©
€0 cc
I-1 ??
5 ? 5 g>-i r ©
Q. O) o
© © o
X ^i (0 I !o
o 1 o£
~o I f P & CD
♦-*
©
*o
2 T CL
O to si ® 8 £ 0.“?
o © ©
© o
*-* © 1 g CO
V)
CL
> (0• © !
•t; td x W ; w x CO -q «-* Q. Z CL
CL
> O) © o E -
FLUORESCENT LAMPS

£ o) -C © g cn Z CO
© -C
c — o
5 C 5 .3 5 s
§ 05
-* <1> § s* s
©I —
8 § O) 5“
_ 05
z ^ ©
E -1 E -1 Ir1 s ~ o _ ©
13
XI CO >-
O5
° O © Z © o —1 © - .C „ co
> ^ © > Q- o -
o .2x8 CJ cb O CL
4 s*
> CO 4*> cn > CO Q. S CO CJ to ^ CO 5 to a.
(0 2
LU 2 I 52
CO o^ • <
CC
O £ 8. ^ g-2 *E
3 <° E x «? “■ ec r S
« J? m ^ © ©

3d °> l_ C °
CL ■§ 5 © c
< oCa Li-
o ?
^ ®
P
o “ W =
X
to -n to
CO 2? C ^ CO ^ £
I
3 O © O ■S z|l
.-do ■“ -r m
o
. o © a.
E
t
» CO <
I 5 §8
3I
f§ s 6 co ©
to 3 c to
Z Q-
O ?Jx ©
o © o
E
2 lii
Z
« c
» ai
3 a i S
r ■!< 1
— (0 — Z E
CO © a. ® ®
-f oi Q-
D E 5i £ ^
• o <o

O-S £ 5-cw1
2» f E c q O
z
£ S S Z®£
X ©
8;l O ©
£ fe¬ CM g-
3 et *“ JZ ©
"S JS d> CO CL 3 ©
<5 e ~
c « ®
< >
<
u <o 2
ofiS 1 a.
I N (S
= « £
|J^

396
 o O o o O in in
o '
S C#x ® in o O O O o o o
m CD in o C CO M- CM CM 00 CM CM o
00 CM 00 OC f^* r*» to r- CD T— *—
9- E ^ io oj O O o
CM * CM CM CM CM CM 9- 3 oc >
Q.
CL
< j 0 <

o o o O O O O K_ £ o in in o
in o o o o
o o o o C m in
in ■fc C o r- r- in o o o o
CD <d CD V— CM CM CO O- CO M- o
co CM CM CO CO CM CM
£ E < )
' *”■ CM

jr e (D 0 »—•
$ o O o o O i o O
o O o o o o O ?z 0 0 ^0 ^
O
O
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
O
O
in
r-
in
r-'-
in
r—
in 10
r- 0
m in E 0 Ej o a) in
h-
in
r-
m
r^>
in
r^-
U)
Is"
in
r^-
l/)
r^-
in
r-
-O -D O CO < Cz,
C
xi t; UJ
C
u 2
$ *
o o ~ w
m- o- T CM CM to . T3 O) > O’ M- O’ o- O’ O- M- O’
w CM CM CM CM CM (A *“ CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM
w a O
4 *•
c w
CJ U 0 0
c c
_0 0 3
-2
Q. Q.
F E
to 0
Si?
o “
0
Z
CO
C c 0 0 «5£ o
0
F E Q.
o ic. o Cl 3 0
c c CO 0 O > X CL
0. <_ .D » O
0 0 c O CO CD
-c
** 0
o 0
*-
-C
**
0 5 O o iE UJ
a;
o
.■t; CJ
0
is < Sijx 0 9 * O 0 0 0 0 0 0
JZ -C
F
o
JZ
0 Jc
E
o -C *->-C JZ JZ SI JZ JZ
w.
O) § § 5 § § O) § §
«•- LJ i CO o>
X .g> 0
3 E E o W 0) J>
">% o o O o o ~>> o o
'T CM 0 z 0 o o o o o 0 o o
<j Q Q § :£ o § < 9 - | a o o o <J o o CJ (J
*-> ** E 8)<o
o &n m in in in in 3 0 . in o o O o o O in o
o.
O) CM o o o CO CD
o.
0 <2 o> »- CM «— *— r«*
0 cm CO CO CO CO 0 in in *; > .E CM CO CO CO CO CO CO CM CO
■o V* < c 0 •=
“J 0. V*
-o
i
W
■o
«A
*o |F 5 = X
c C
0 ©
CL
0 0 CD
c c
O
CO E w £ 0
-O
Q. a. Ui o
o o cc o
CO O)
co «> co O c
*o CO v* -O CO O TT
c 'v X fO CO
c \
D 0
5 V. "s 5 3 Ll. $ 5 S $ () 5
c c
?
o Q o o o o o D \ o
o a O 5 5 o
N. N N .F \ \ N \ CM
CM CM CM CM CM _ r- r- E
0 CO CO CO 00 CO C30 CO
►- Y- K h- K h- h- ►— h-
00

h- H- h- »- »- t- »-
O O © O o © o CM CD CD 00 o o O
M- CM CM CM CM CM CO CO CO CO
u. u- u- Li- U- U. u. U. Li- U_ U. U. u. u. u. li.
F E
©
E k-
JO _ F
Approx. 1 Vi" Diameter

3 a> 0
3 c 0 3 J 11
T3 c 0 O CL 0 ■o fd
0 Q. © CD 0 Q- 1 _J HI
6 £ 5 DO
55 E ^ CD
5 CO K
o o
Q. a CL
_ ^^
O. CL 0 X <0
0 00
0
0
O
CD
7E= E?-Co CM
CM CM
CD
CM
00
CM
o
O')
o
O') C-)
0
C CM C
z
K
o 0
CM k- ♦- So 9- D CM
0
T5
Q. 0
■D O w =
3 00 •— 00
h- a. CD h- H- h-
O O % o -
►— < h-
O .2 ®
3 *- ©
o o iZ 5 E CO O) o
T-12

r*- ! E S CM CO
|J*

397
Index
 Index
A
Antenna head.. .222
Antenna signal splitter. .226
Appliances, heating. ...69
Appliances, motor operated. ...69
Appliances, portable. .160
Applications, practical.... .126
Automatic garage door system,
installation. .300
Automatic garage door system,
optional accessories. 304

B
Boxes, outlet 57

C
Cable, armored.... ...49
Cable, lead-in. .224
Cable, nonmetallic sheath. ...49
Cable, service-entrance. ...50
Cable systems. ...49
Cable, underground-feeder. ...51
Chimes, location. ,246
Chime, two-note, installation. ,246
Chimes, types.:.. 246

401
Chisels, wood • ■ • »■*'• • **» • •» * • • * »• * a rt« ■ a .a a 16
aaa a tla> t-a a 4 • • • »M M at (tea

Circuit breakers. 203

Circuits, 240-volt, layout......120
Clothes dryer • • ■ . . ... ..•....•'..a...*.....-. ...... ■... «.....>. a>>■ .......... «>309
Clothes washer....... 308
Compactor. 306
Condensing unit, mounting.. 292
Cooling coil, installing.... 292
Couplers .

D
Dishwasher.
Disposal. .

Drill, electric.. .1 ■ • • ■ • • • • • • a • 11 • a • a a-a'a a-a aaaaaaaa^ 6

E
Electric barbecue... . . ■ tlMititiaaaii.VJ 1

Electric lamps .

Electric motor maintenance. .191

Electric motors,
typical applications.... 196
Electric service, partial updating...149
Electric smoker. 315
Electrical faults, types.61
Electrical service, correct size.133
Electrical wire joints, taping...45
EMT, using. 54
Equipment grounding. 158
Equipment grounding, summary.162
Evaporative cooler. 318

F
Fault, partial ground .....67
Firelogs. 317
Fittings, installing. 266
Food center.........315
Freezer... 1Z”ZZ”!!308
Fuses. 63
Fuses, cartridge.. 202
Fuses, plug. .....].”11]201

H
Hacksaw blades.....
Hacksaw frame...

402
Hammer, claw......„.......15
Humidifier...317

I
Intercom system,
careful planning ..—.....233
Intercom system, installation.235

L
Ladder, step-..... ...16
Light switches, installation.. ...90
Lighting fixtures, installation.. .171
Lighting fixtures, selecting.. .168
Lightning arresters. .214
Lightning rods.., .208
Low-voltage remote-controlled
switching. .112
Low-voltage switching,
application. .114

M
Master antenna TV system .. 230
Masts.. ,224
Microwave oven. 318
Motor, capacitor-start. ,190
Motor, capacitor-start
capacitor-run. 190
Motor repairs. ,198
Motor, repulsion-start
induction-run. ,191
Motor, shaded-pole... ,191
Motor, split-phase. .190
Motor, universal. .191

N
Neutral wire, loose......». 66

0
Outdoor farm lighting, installing. 176
Outlets, TV.. 228
Outside residential lighting,
installing. 184
Overcurrent protection,
selecting proper..'.. 204

403
 p
Pliers, diagonal-cutting ...14
Pliers, gripping......... ..21
Pliers, long-nose.... ,.13
Pliers, side-cutting___ ,.13
Pole metering... 145
Preamplifier 222

R
Receptacles, calculating_ .34
Refrigerant tubing, installing,. ,..296
Refrigerator. ,..308
Room air conditioner.„. ,,313
Room heater.,... ,,311
Roto r.........*...................»............. .,,222
Rule, folding...,..... .20

S
Saw, compass.............„ .20
Screwdrivers........ .12
Service equipment, installation. ,..137
Short circuits. .65
Smoke detection alarms. ,,253
Soldering.,.. .44
Soldering iron ... .19
Sump pump ..,.... ,.314
Surface metal molding, installing. .93
Surface-mounted
fire/security systems.„.,. ,,256
Switch applications.... ,,103
Switches, four-way.. ,,106
Switches, three-way. ,,105
Switches, three-way, installation.. ,,108
System, electrical. .25
Systems, raceway.. .51
System, typical

T
Tools, hand 160
Tubing, installing..,.... 266
Tubing system, planning. 264

V
Vent fan
Voltage tester M • •« •• •■ (Mit

404
 w
Wall switch, installing in
plastered wall. <...96
Wall toaster. 316
Waste aerator. ..312
Water pump. 312
Wire connections. 41
Wire splices, types. 35
Wires, cleaning. 30
Wires, stripping.........30
Wiring, concealed........73
Wiring systems. 52
Work safety considerations. 21
Wrench, adjustable. ...14

405
 '