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ERNEST SMALL/GRACE DEUTSCH
CULINARY HERBS
for
SHORT-SEASON
GARDENERS
The Herb Garden, Almonte, Ontario, Canada.
CULINARY HERBS
for
SHORT-SEASON
GARDENERS
Ernest Small • Grace Deutsch
Copyright © 2001 National Research Council of Canada & Ismant Associates Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of
the publishers.
Electronic ISBN 0-660-18600-4, Print International Standard Book Number: 0-660-17785-4 (NRC Research Press)
International Standard Book Number: 0-9688913-0-6 (Ismant Associates Inc.)
NRC No 42737
Printed on acid-free paper
National Library of Canada cataloguing in publication data
Small, Ernest, 1940-
Issued also in French under title : Herbes culinaires pour nos jardins de pays froid.
Includes bibliographical references.
Issued by the National Research Council of Canada.
ISBN 0-660-17785-4
For information to reproduce selections from this book, For special premium and promotional sales and
please contact: customized editions, please contact:
NRC Research Press Ismant Associates Inc.
Montreal Road, Building M-55 Attention: Sales Department
Ottawa, ON K1A 0R6 633 Huron Street
Canada Toronto, ON M5R 2R8
Tel: 1-800-668-1222, option 2 Canada
Fax: 613-952-7656 Tel: 416-960-6487
Email: [email protected] Fax: 416-925-2360
Email: [email protected]
v
Culinary Herb Compendium 27
Agrimony 29
Angelica 32
Balm, lemon 35
Basil, sweet 38
Bergamot 41
Borage 45
Caraway 48
Catnip 51
Chamomile, German and Roman 54
Chervil 57
Chives and garlic chives 59
Cicely, sweet 63
Coriander 66
Cress, garden and upland 69
Dill 72
Fennel 75
Fenugreek 79
Garlic 82
Geraniums, scented 86
Hop 90
Horseradish 93
Hyssop 96
Hyssop, anise 99
Juniper 102
Lavender, English 105
Lovage 109
Marigold, pot 112
Marjoram, sweet 115
Mints 118
A Potpourri of Mint-Like Herbs 122
Calamint, large-flowered 122
Calamint, lesser 122
Korean mint 123
Mexican mint marigold 123
Mountain mint 123
Mustard, brown and white 124
Nasturtium and dwarf nasturtium 128
Oregano 131
Parsley 135
Poppy, Oriental 139
Rose, dog and Turkestan 142
vi
Rosemary 147
Sage, garden 151
Savory, summer 155
Savory, winter 157
Sorrel, garden and French 159
Tarragon, French 163
Thyme, garden 166
Warm-Season Container Herbs to Overwinter Indoors 170
Bay laurel 170
Ginger 171
Lemon grass 171
Lemon verbena 172
Myrtle 173
Sources 174
Further Reading 178
Credits 180
vii
Acknowledgments
Our special thanks to Sharon and Gerry Channer of the Herb Garden, Almonte, Ontario, for the
use of several beautiful photographs; Debbie Luce of Herbs for All Seasons for the excellent
photograph of pot marigold; Eric Johnson (photographer), Barry Flahey (artist), Susan Rigby
(artist), and Brenda Brookes (technician and artist), all of Agriculture Canada, for preparing
additional superb illustrations; the Schamel First Bavarian Horseradish Delicatessen Factory,
Baiersdorf, Germany, for a wonderful photograph of horseradish; Marc Favreau, for excellent
suggestions that clarified the text; and the staff at NRC Research Press. Most of the drawings are
modified from masterpieces of botanical illustration produced in the 18th and 19th centuries that
are so valuable they are kept in secure collections generally unavailable for public viewing. We
trust our resurrection of their works would have pleased the artists.
Disclaimer
The information in this book has been carefully researched and all efforts have been made to
ensure accuracy. The traditional medical and folk uses and modern medicinal values of the
culinary herbs described here are given for informational purposes only. Medicinal use of herbs
should be carried out only under the care of a well-informed, qualified physician. Do not consume
or use medicinally any plant or herb unless it has been correctly identified. The authors and
publishers disclaim any liability in connection with the use of the information contained in this
book. Where trade names are used, no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the
authors or publishers is implied.
viii
To
Victor, Sara, Esther, Sharon, and Karen
ES
To
Jessica, “Queen of Basil,” Meara, “Precious Poppy,”
and Julia, “Princess Rose”
GD
ix
Some fragrant, tasty herbal delights - pretty nasturtium flowers and herbal vinegars and liqueurs.
x
I NTRODUCTION
short-season gardener n. Optimist who grows plants in an area
with summers that are too short and winters that are too cold.
Before I met Ernie Small, I had never thought much about the basic problem inherent in growing
culinary herbs in my cool-climate garden. Most herbs are native to southern climates, so they
resent—at least a little, and sometimes a lot—being required to thrive in a place they find
downright chilly.
I should have known better. I grew up in semi-tropical Australia, and 30 years after I emigrated
to Southern Ontario, I am still grumbling about short summers and endless winters. I really
admire my gardening friends in places like windswept Montana, the frigid Adirondacks, and
bracing northern Alberta, who persist in creating an annual bounty of flowers, vegetables and
herbs. They have learned, often through hard-won experience, that many delectable herbs can
be coddled into ignoring their warm-climate origins. These resourceful gardeners exploit the
relatively short warm-weather season and encourage a wonderful array of herbs into prospering
in difficult, often harsh environments.
Dr. Small understands their enthusiasm and persistence. He was raised by immigrant parents in
the Ottawa Valley, a region known for its short searing summers and seemingly endless winters.
Ernie’s parents got their start in Canada peddling fruit and vegetables from a horse-drawn cart,
progressing to owning and operating grocery stores and restaurants. From a young age, Ernie was
“volunteered” to help out in the family enterprises, and so unwittingly acquired an appreciation
for food plants. But he had little real interest in plants of any kind until he casually took a
course in biology just as he was finishing his undergraduate general arts degree. Thanks to his
wonderfully inspirational teacher, he fell in love with botany.
Several decades later, Ernie is an international authority on agriculturally important plants.
Winner of the G. M. Cooley Award of the American Society of Plant Taxonomists, the Southern
California Botanists Prize, the Agriculture Canada Merit Award, and the prestigious Canadian
Botanical Association’s George Lawson Medal for lifetime contributions to botany, Ernie has
written over 200 scientific publications. He has also written 7 books, including Culinary Herbs,
the professional herb-grower’s bible.
1
Culinary Herbs for Short-Season Gardeners
As a botanist, Ernie is interested in all classes of plants. But the idea that some plants can be
beautiful and edible at the same time has always intrigued him, hence his particular interest in
culinary herbs. Great chefs know that food must be simultaneously attractive to the eye, palate,
and nose, and since herbs epitomize this combination of beauty, taste, and aroma, Ernie finds
them ideal subjects for botanical study.
By the way, never let anyone tell you that botany is boring: while collecting herbs in Turkey,
Israel, Greece, Spain, Italy, France, England, Russia and throughout North America, Ernie has
risked life and limb trying to get at plants that insist on growing on steep cliffs that sensible
mountain goats would not visit, had occasion to dodge snakes and/or scorpions, talked fast when
faced with suspicious locals pointing guns, and reassured gimlet-eyed police who were unaware
that he is also one of the world’s top authorities on Cannabis sativa, the marijuana plant.
I met Ernie by chance at a summer herb fair. Gardeners being approachable types, we got into a
lively discussion on the best basil to go with a freshly picked tomato. You know that evocative
smell that transfers from the tomato to your hands, the sweet-but-acid taste, the warmth of that
edible goodness … Is it ‘Mammoth’ (O. basilicum), one of the many “lettuce-leaved” cultivars,
or ‘Spicy Globe,’ that fragrant, delectable hybrid of American basil (O. americanum) that crowns
the tomato-lover’s moments of summer ecstasy? We could not agree, although we did concur
that basil was indeed “the king of herbs.” Ernie did admit to a certain prejudice … there wasn’t
a basil he didn’t like with the exception of holy basil, which he said was the worst herb he had
ever tasted. (He hastened to say that perhaps this judgment was unfair since holy basil suffers
by comparison to its wonderful relative.) As I knew nothing about holy basil and did not wish
to advertise my ignorance, I deftly steered the conversation to dill, a particular favorite of mine,
and then we parted.
My curiosity piqued about the infamous holy basil, I made for the book display area, determined
to do a little unobtrusive sleuthing. At the NRC Research Press stand I discovered a very large,
authoritative-looking work entitled Culinary Herbs. Surely I’d find all I needed to know on
holy basil in this hefty book? I was just thumbing through the index, when a familiar friendly
voice said: “I think holy basil is on page 419.”
From basil to books was not a great leap. I told Ernie that I was endlessly on the lookout for a
practical, easy-to-use book on what herbs to grow in our chilly climate, and how to grow them
successfully, short hot summers and long cold winters notwithstanding. True, there are lots of
books on how to grow herbs, but I don’t want to be tortured with lyrical descriptions on how to
grow chilli peppers and saffron crocus, when my own experiences tell me that nature and
climate will always conspire against me raising these plants through to harvest. While Ernie’s
big book Culinary Herbs was obviously the definitive book on the subject, its size and the
depth of the treatment of the 125 herb species it covers, meant it was just too hefty to be the
take-to-the-garden herb book I was looking for. Ernie wondered why I did not write the book I
wanted myself; I said I would, only if he would.
Timing, as they say, is everything. With his latest book Canadian Medicinal Crops, co-authored
with his colleague Dr. Paul Catling, just completed, I had found Ernie between projects.
2
Introduction
Moreover, he had long wanted to write a book on herbs that would put his specialist’s knowledge
at the service of keen amateur herb growers. And being a dirt-under-the-nails gardener himself,
we found we were in total agreement that our book would not be for armchair gardeners, but
for that hardy breed who, like us, wants to experience the boundless satisfaction of growing and
harvesting herbs if not year-round, then as close to it as possible.
The resulting book, Culinary Herbs for Short-Season Gardeners, you hold in your hands. We
hope you turn to it constantly as you tend your northern herb garden. (Do not be afraid to get it
dirty. Like a favorite cookbook, it should testify to its usefulness by being not a little stained
and dog-eared.) As the story of this book’s conception indicates, gardeners like to share their
knowledge. In this spirit, we would welcome receiving information on successful (and not so
successful) strategies you have used in your own short-season herb garden. Please feel free to
write to us c/o Ismant Peony Press, 633 Huron Street, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 2R8.
Grace Deutsch
4
I NTERPRETING A PLANT HARDINESS ZONE MAP
Whether you are a novice or an experienced short-season gardener, consulting a plant hardiness
zone map will help you to determine which perennial herbs are sufficiently hardy to survive
winters in your area.
The plant hardiness zone map for North America shown on page 6 is a modification of a widely
used climate-zone map prepared by the US Department of Agriculture. This map, which is
based on minimum winter temperatures, divides the United States and Canada into climate
zones, of which zones 1 through 10 are shown in the map. Each climate zone is divided from
the next by a difference of 5.6°C (10°F). Lower zone numbers indicate lower minimum winter
temperatures.
Each of the perennial herbs profiled in the “Culinary Herb Compendium” includes a reference to
the coldest zone tolerated by the plant. To find out whether a particular herb may be winter-
hardy enough for your location, look at the map to find your gardening area. Then match the
map color for your location to the map key to determine the hardiness zone you live in. Note,
however, that the hardiness zone listings are based on general temperature trends. Neither the
hardiness zone map nor the plant hardiness listings necessarily reflects the conditions peculiar
to your garden or your immediate area. You may find, for example, that you can grow a particular
herb a zone north of its stated maximum limit simply by varying its microclimate, that is, the
climate in the plant’s immediate vicinity.
Local factors, such as the amount of snow cover, can also alter the significance of minimum
winter temperatures. Snow cover decreases the extent that frost penetrates into the ground, so if
you live in an area with consistently heavy snow, your garden may be warmer, from a plant’s
perspective, than the hardiness zone map would indicate. Conversely, if you live in an area that
experiences mid-winter thaws that melt the snow cover, you may be warmer, but the range of
herbs you can grow will be more limited compared to those areas where snow stays all winter.
Finally, hardiness zones should not be considered to be sharp like political boundaries, as this
could lead to the absurd prediction that the south side of some gardens bisected by the map
lines could grow some herbs that could not be grown on the north side.
5
Culinary Herbs for Short-Season Gardeners
Given the limitations of hardiness zone maps, you may wonder why you should be especially
concerned about plant hardiness listings. While you can do much to help your outdoor herbs
survive the cold season, you can only compensate for minimum winter temperatures to a limited
extent. And while minimum winter temperature alone is probably not sufficient to predict a
plant’s hardiness limits, it remains the most important factor in determining whether a perennial
species will survive in a given region. So do treat plant hardiness listings as flexible guidelines,
but know that there simply is not a better predictive system at present.
Plant hardiness zone map for North America. Culinary Herbs for Short-Season Gardeners is aimed
primarily at gardeners cultivating herbs in zones 1–5.
6
M AKING THE MOST OF THE SHORT GROWING
SEASON
Cultivating culinary herbs in a northern climate is a challenge. The outdoor growing season is
short and intense, and climatic conditions—even in the summer months—are notoriously fickle.
The bad news is that you can’t do anything about the climate. The good news is that there is
much you can do to get the growing season for your herbs started early and to keep it going
late, despite the weather.
Pick the Best Location for Light and Warmth
Although many culinary herbs are Mediterranean and/or Asian natives, a number grow well in
cold-climate gardens, albeit as annuals rather than perennials, which they may well be in
warmer, long-season climates. (Annual herbs like dill, mustard, and coriander last only one
growing season and must be replanted each year. Perennials like fennel, lemon balm, and
Oriental poppy reappear in the spring after wintering outdoors.)
Light is crucial for most herbs. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, many herbs require a
minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily in order to thrive. So when you’re deciding where to
grow your herbs, pick those locations that have maximum light potential. Sites with a southern
or southeastern aspect that catch the morning sun will be best for most culinary herbs, as these
exposures will provide your herbs with the greatest amount of light (and warmth) for the longest
period of time, from sunrise to mid-afternoon.
Meeting your herbs’ need for warmth is another consideration when choosing suitable garden
sites. Providing warmth is always important, but it’s especially so during spring when you’re
working feverishly to give young seedlings a good start on the season, and conversely, in fall,
when you’re counting on harvesting a late crop. House and garden walls made of brick retain
the day’s heat and radiate it at night, so making a herb garden in front of a wall ensures warmth
and has the added benefit of sheltering your plants from damaging winds. Plant shorter herbs at
the front of your bed, reserving the wall position for taller herbs like angelica or lovage that are
always in need of support. Alternatively, erecting a sturdy trellis in front of a sunny wall allows
climbing herbs like hops and certain types of nasturtiums to ramble at will, in the process helping
to soften the wall’s harsh contours.
7
Culinary Herbs for Short-Season Gardeners
Walkways and paths made of stone or brick also retain precious heat. Growing herbs beside a
garden path helps keep the plants warm and gives you easy access for harvesting herbs for fresh
use whenever you need them. Because herbs like garlic chives and sweet marjoram are both
fragrant and pretty, they make delightful borders as well. Other sources of warmth your garden
may have to offer include ornamental rocks and rock gardens.
Herbs will suffer if left to sit in pockets of cold air, particularly at night when frosts can occur
only in the pockets. Since cold air moves downward, you want to design your herb garden so
that it has a slight slope, assuming there is no natural slope on your land that you can take
advantage of. Sloping gardens promote cold air drainage; however, as the cold air will collect at
the bottom of the slope, be careful not to plant more tender herbs such as basil in this spot.
Sloping gardens may have the added benefit of providing pockets of warmth, as plants growing
higher up the slope block the flow of cold air reaching those plants situated immediately below.
The downside is that the blocked air may create a cold pocket just above the “protective” plants.
8
Making the Most of the Short Growing Season
There are a number of techniques you can use to provide your herbs with adequate warmth. Try to situate
your garden where it will benefit from the maximum sunlight and, by extension, the maximum heat that
comes with a southern exposure. If your budget allows, an attached greenhouse with a southern exposure
is useful for starting herbs early in the season. As brick house walls and stone or brick walkways retain
heat, growing your herbs beside these structures provides the plants with warmth, even when the temper-
ature drops at night. Designing your garden so that it slopes away from the plantings beside the house
allows cold air to drain away at night. A perforated or picket fence makes an excellent barrier to the cool-
ing and drying effects of strong winds (shown here by the arrow), while still allowing ventilation for your
garden.
9
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Μητε πεινω, μητε διψω, μητε ψωμι [κρασιν] μου
λειπει.
Lakit me neyþer mete ne drynk.
Jeannaraki, p. 203, No 265:
Sakellarios, p. 37, No 13.
1
Seynt Steuene was a clerk in kyng Herowdes halle,
And seruyd him of bred and cloþ, as euery kyng
befalle.
2
Steuyn out of kechone cam, wyth boris hed on honde;
He saw a sterre was fayr and bryȝt ouer Bedlem
stonde.
3
He kyst adoun þe boris hed and went in to þe halle:
'I forsak þe, kyng Herowdes, and þi werkes alle.
4
'I forsak þe, kyng Herowdes, and þi werkes alle;
Þer is a chyld in Bedlem born is beter þan we alle.'
5
'Quat eylyt þe, Steuene? quat is þe befalle?
Lakkyt þe eyþer mete or drynk in kyng Herowdes
halle?'
6
'Lakit me neyþer mete ne drynk in kyng Herowdes
halle;
Þer is a chyld in Bedlem born is beter þan we alle.'
7
Quat eylyt þe, Steuyn? art þu wod, or þu gynnyst to
brede?
Lakkyt þe eyþer gold or fe, or ony ryche wede?'
8
'Lakyt me neyþer gold ne fe, ne non ryche wede;
Þer is a chyld in Bedlem born xal helpyn vs at our
nede.'
9
'Þat is al so soþ, Steuyn, al so soþ, iwys,
As þis capoun crowe xal þat lyp here in myn dysh.'
10
Þat word was not so sone seyd, þat word in þat halle,
Þe capoun crew Cristus natus est! among þe lordes
alle.
11
Rysyt vp, myn turmentowres, be to and al be on,
And ledyt Steuyn out of þis town, and stonyt hym wyth
ston!'
12
Tokyn he Steuene, and stonyd hym in the way,
And þerfore is his euyn on Crystes owyn day.
FOOTNOTES:
1
Hit wes upon a Scere-thorsday that ure loverd aros;
Ful milde were the wordes he spec to Judas.
2
'Judas, thou most to Jurselem, oure mete for to
bugge;
Thritti platen of selver thou bere up othi rugge.
3
'Thou comest fer ithe brode stret, fer ithe brode strete;
Summe of thine tunesmen ther thou meiht imete.'
4
. . . . . . .
Imette wid is soster, the swikele wimon.
5
'Judas, thou were wrthe me stende the wid ston,
For the false prophete that tou bilevest upon.'
6
'Be stille, leve soster, thin herte the tobreke!
Wiste min loverd Crist, ful wel he wolde be wreke.'
7
'Judas, go thou on the roc, heie upon the ston;
Lei thin heved imy barm, slep thou the anon.'
8
Sone so Judas of slepe was awake,
Thritti platen of selver from hym weren itake.
9
He drou hymselve bi the cop, that al it lavede a blode;
The Jewes out of Jurselem awenden he were wode.
10
Foret hym com the riche Jeu that heihte Pilatus:
'Wolte sulle thi loverd, that hette Jesus?'
11
'I nul sulle my loverd [for] nones cunnes eihte,
Bote hit be for the thritti platen that he me bitaihte.'
12
'Wolte sulle thi lord Crist for enes cunnes golde?'
'Nay, bote hit be for the platen that he habben wolde.'
13
In him com ur lord Crist gon, as is postles seten at
mete:
'Wou sitte ye, postles, ant wi nule ye ete?
14
['Wou sitte ye, postles, ant wi nule ye ete?]
Ic am ibouht ant isold today for oure mete.'
15
Up stod him Judas: 'Lord, am I that ...?
'I nas never othe stude ther me the evel spec.'
16
Up him stod Peter, and spec wid al is mihte,
. . . . . . .
17
'Thau Pilatus him come wid ten hundred cnihtes,
Yet ic wolde, loverd, for thi love fihte.'
18
'Still thou be, Peter, wel I the icnowe;
Thou wolt fursake me thrien ar the coc him crowe.'
FOOTNOTES:
A.
Kinloch's Ancient Scottish Ballads, p. 123.
1
There was a rich lord, and he lived in Forfar,
He had a fair lady, and one only dochter.
2
O she was fair, O dear, she was bonnie!
A ship's captain courted her to be his honey.
3
There cam a ship's captain out owre the sea sailing,
He courted this young thing till he got her wi bairn.
4
'Ye'll steal your father's gowd, and your mother's
money,
And I'll mak ye a lady in Ireland bonnie.'
5
She's stown her father's gowd, and her mother's
money,
But she was never a lady in Ireland bonnie.
* * * * *
6
'There's fey fowk in our ship, she winna sail for me,
There's fey fowk in our ship, she winna sail for me.'
7
They've casten black bullets twice six and forty,
And ae the black bullet fell on bonnie Annie.
8
'Ye'll tak me in your arms twa, lo, lift me cannie,
Throw me out owre board, your ain dear Annie.'
9
He has tane her in his arms twa, lo, lifted her cannie,
He has laid her on a bed of down, his ain dear Annie.
10
'What can a woman do, love, I'll do for ye;'
'Muckle can a woman do, ye canna do for me.'
11
'Lay about, steer about, lay our ship cannie,
Do all ye can to save my dear Annie.'
12
'I've laid about, steerd about, laid about cannie,
But all I can do, she winna sail for me.
13
'Ye'll tak her in your arms twa, lo, lift her cannie,
And throw her out owre board, your ain dear Annie.'
14
He has tane her in his arms twa, lo, lifted her cannie,
He has thrown her out owre board, his ain dear Annie.
15
As the ship sailed, bonnie Annie she swam,
And she was at Ireland as soon as them.
16
He made his love a coffin of the gowd sae yellow,
And buried his bonnie love doun in a sea valley.
B.
Motherwell's MS., p. 652. From the singing of a boy, Henry
French, Ayr.
1
Down in Dumbarton there wonnd a rich merchant,
Down in Dumbarton there wond a rich merchant,
And he had nae family but ae only dochter.
Sing fal lal de deedle, fal lal de deedle lair, O a day
2
There cam a rich squire, intending to woo her,
He wooed her until he had got her wi babie.
3
'Oh what shall I do! oh what shall come o me!
Baith father and mither will think naething o me.'
4
'Gae up to your father, bring down gowd and money,
And I'll take ye ower to a braw Irish ladie.'
5
She gade to her father, brought down gowd and
money,
And she's awa ower to a braw Irish ladie.
6
She hadna sailed far till the young thing cried
'Women!'
'What women can do, my dear, I'll do for you.'
7
'O haud your tongue, foolish man, dinna talk vainly,
For ye never kent what a woman driet for you.
8
'Gae wash your hands in the cauld spring water,
And dry them on a towel a' giltit wi silver.
9
'And tak me by the middle, and lift me up saftlie,
And throw me ower shipboard, baith me and my
babie.'
10
He took her by the middle, and lifted her saftly,
And threw her ower shipboard, baith her and her
babie.
11
Sometimes she did sink, sometimes she did float it,
Until that she cam to the high banks o Yarrow.
12
'O captain tak gowd, O sailors tak money,
And launch out your sma boat till I sail for my honey.'
13
'How can I tak gowd, how can I tak money?
My ship's on a sand bank, she winna sail for me.'
14
The captain took gowd, the sailors took money,
And they launchd out their sma boat till he sailed for
his honey.
15
'Mak my love a coffin o the gowd sae yellow,
Whar the wood it is dear, and the planks they are
narrow,
And bury my love on the high banks o Yarrow.'
16
They made her a coffin o the gowd sae yellow,
And buried her deep on the high banks o Yarrow.
A.
Printed by Kinloch in four-line stanzas.
161. coffin off the Goats of Yerrow.
B.
16. Motherwell, Minstrelsy, p. xcix, 146, gives the stanza
thus:
FOOTNOTES:
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