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FOOD AND
SOCIETY
Edited by

MARK GIBSON
Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier
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Typeset by TNQ Technologies

 Contents

List of figures xi 2.6 Bio,clynamics and organic famling 35

Z.7 Socio-political (ccmnics 35
List of tables XIll
2.8 Cominued hybridization 40
Table of equations xvii 2.9 The health organization of the League of
Contributors xix Narions 41
Biography xxvii 2.10 Population pressure resurf'1Ces: the First World
Popularion Conference 43
Foreword xxix
2.11 The gold standard 44
Preface: What role food? xxxi 2.12 Biorechnological advances 45
Acknowledgments xxxiii 2.13 Green shoots of agricultural evolution 45

Abbreviations xxxv 2.14 Health and nutrition studies foster acrimony

and collaboration 47
2.15 Growing multilateralism 52
2.16 Organic farming and environmentalism 55
I 2.17 Second World War: provisioning and
rationing 56
The historic political, economic and 2.18 Science and technology: increased
social constructs of food momentum 59
2.19 Economic from 61
1. Sociopolitical food and 2.20 More surpluses 62

nutrition: pre-20th century 2.21 UK food stamp program 62

2.22 The inception of the United Nations 63
2.23 Freedom from want of food 65
1.1 The growth of agricultural civilizations 4
References 71
1.2 Modem agriculture: on rhe shoulders of gianrs
we prosper 5
1.3 The agricultural and industrial revolutions 7 3. Food, rights, and politics: the post-war
1.4 The enlightenment: sociocultural movements 8 years (I 945-60)
t.5 Health and nunition: an emerging
discipline 12 3.1 A new gold standard 80
1.6 The first dietary studies 14 3.2 The United Nations human righ ts commission
References 16 of 1948 80
3.3 The Marshall plan 81
2. The 20th century: winds of change 3.4 General agreement on [ariffs and

(1900-45) trade 82
3.5 POSHV<lr nutritional reconstruction 82
3.6 FAO second world food survey 1952 86
2.1 The agricultural landscape 23
3.7 Gender and work rates 87
2.2 Health and diet: dle final link 25
3.8 The link between malnutrition and
2.3 Technolob'Y and biotechnology close the
infection 88
gap 26
3.9 Genetic engineering further miiesmnes 88
2.4 Governance and early food production 28
3.10 Surpluses and the agricultu ral trade
2.5 Nutrition grows up 30
development and assistance act 89

v
vi mNTENTS

3.11 The European economic community 93 5.5 The GMO backlash 144
3.12 The great leap forward famine (t 958-61) 93 5.6 2010 UN summit on MDGs 145
3.13 Deciara£ion of the rights of the child 5.7 Food crisis and financial chaos 145
(I 959) 94 References 149
3.14 The freedom from hunger campaign 94
3.15 World food program 96
3.16 Hope holds out 97
3.17 The green revoimion 97
II
3.18 Single�ccll prorcins 97 Food and...
3.I 9 Protein and the growing kwashiorkor­
marasmus debate 98
6. The beginnings of modem development
3.20 The third world food survey 99
theory
References 99

6.1 The growth of the agricultural economic

4. Mixed blessings: a time of hope and
development paradigm 157
crisis (1960-2000) 6.2 Development in practice 158
6.3 Globalization 159
4.1 Rachel Carson and the environment 106 160
6.4 Right to food
4.2 To the White House 107
6.5 Questioning agricultural free trade 162
4.3 Imemational Bill of Human Rights 107 References 162
4.4 Economic uncertainty 113
4.5 Sustainable development 115
7. Agriculture, forestry, and fisheries
4.6 World food crisis 115
4.7 The developing world's debt 116
7.1 The agricultural landscape: a global
4.8 World Food Conference (WFC) 1974 116
structure 165
4.9 Recombinant DNA: the arrival of genetic
7.2 Increased food production� 167
engineering 117
7.3 Modern agricultural practices 168
4.10 A decade of mixed blessings 118
7.4 Fisheries and aqu3culwre 171
4.11 Maturing humanitarianism 118
7.s The intensification, concentration, and
4.12 The 1984-85 famines in Africa 120
specialization of agriculture 175
4.13 Food mountains: the scourge of Europe 121
7.6 The impact of food consumption on the
4.14 A changing concept of food security:
agroecological resource base 175
entitlement theory 123
References 177
4.15 Hidden hunger 123
4.16 Single cell protein's parcial success 124
8. Organic food and agriculture
4.17 Genetic engineering gains momentum 125
4.18 Agriculture and the GAIT rounds 125
127 8.1 What is it? 180
4.19 Earth Summit: environmentalism
8.2 Organics by d1e numbers 182
4.20 Generic engineering comes of age 128
8.3 Organic pioneers 183
4.21 World Food Summit (WFS) 129
8.4 Pesticides and externalities 193
4.22 Footprints and ecological accounting 130
8.5 Cercifica[ion and the organics hinterland 194
References 132
8.6 Conclusion 195
References 196
5. The 21st century: ideological
convergence
9. From agriculture to the global food
chain/system
5.1 The Much-Heralded Millennium Summit 139
5.2 World food summit: 5 years later 140
9.1 Agriculture, forestry, and fisheries 202
5.3 The Earth to support close to 8 billion 143
9.2 What is the food supply chain? 202
SA The World Bank and nutrition 143

••
 CONTENTS vii

9.3 Size of the glob.1 food sector 206 13.3 Population sustainabili[), and [he carrying
9.4 Employment in agriculture 209 capacity of [he Earth 264
9.5 Commercial control over the supply chain 210 References 267
9.6 Food price volatility Z13
9.7 Current global food situ:uion: production, usage
and needs: food balance sheets 215
9.8 Nutritional status: over� and
III
undernutrition 216 Anthropology of food
9.9 Sufficient food 219
References 220
14. Governance and food

10. Global food waste 14.1 From human rights to food rights 274
14.2 The food g.p 277
10.1 Food waste: hisroricai perspectives 225 14.3 Land use and land ownership rights 277
10.2 Anitudes [0 food: personal and 14.4 Food and global governance 278
cultural 226 14.5 Regulation and trade 279
I 0.3 Terminology and typology 226 14.6 Safety nets and food reserves 281
10.4 Why nowl 227 L4.7 Globalizmion: hegemony, multilateral
10.5 Key causes of food waste 228 cooperation, and people power 282
10.6 Undervaluation of food 230 14.8 Land grabbing 283
10.7 Foodservice styles 233 14.9 Food sovereigmy 284
10.8 Data limitations 236 References 285
10.9 The challenge .he.d 236 Further reading 287
10.10 What can be done: waste prevention
initiatives! 237 15. Food and social trends
References 239
15.1 Food as an important social function 290
11. The Hunger files: food security 15.2 Food and dining styles 290
15.3 Food and social occasions 291
11.1 Food security: what is it? 242 15.4 Food, solar terms, and festivals in China 295
11.2 Pm1dorn's box 246 15.5 Conclusion 303
References 246 References 303

16. Trending foods and beverages

12. Food: natural and environmental
considerations 16.1 Whole foods and raw foods 306
16.2 Medicinal and sllperfoods 307
12.1 Sustainable naruml resource limitations and 16.3 Medicinal or health foods 309
resource wastage 247 16.4 Beverage trends 312
12.2 Suscainable agriculture 249 16.5 Brunching is the trend 315
12.3 The impact of food consumption on the 16.6 Food labels 316
agroecological resource base 250 16.7 USDA organic 316
12.4 Trophic's in action: wheat versus mear 252 16.8 FAIRTRADE 317
References 254 16.9 The rainforest alliance certified 317
16.10 Vegan logos 317
13. Food: population rise and sustainability 16.11 �bl.1 318
16.12 Kosher 318
13.1 Population trends 258 16.13 Marine Stewardship council 319
13.2 The Malthusian hypothesis 259 References 321
viii mNTENTS

17. Food, culture, and food tourism 19.5 The open kitchen and the questioning of
closed kitchen work 357
17.1 Food and culture 324 19.6 Emotional labor 360
) 7.2 Food functions and beliefs 325 19.7 Theoretical considerations debated 370
17.3 Food habits 327 19.8 Concluding remarks 370
17.4 Food and courism 329 References 371
17.5 Food identiry. culwre. and courism 329
17.6 G.lstronomy tourism and cultural capital 330 20. Food ingredients
17.7 Trends and its importance 331
17.8 UNESCO Creative Cities 20.1 Food additives 378
Network-Gastronomy 332 20.2 Food additives today 379
) 7.9 The recent case of Macao Special 20.3 Preservatives 379
Administrative Region, China 332 20.4 Nutritional <ldditives 380
17.10 Featured case swdy: Macanese cuisine and 20.5 Coloring agents 380
identity 333 20.6 Flavoring agents 380
References 338 20.7 Texrurizing agenrs 381
ZO.8 Genetically modified organisms 381
18. Feeding the future: challenges and 20.9 Internationally deregulated and farmed
genetically modified crops 382
limitations
20.10 Food labeling 385
20.11 Highlights of the final nutrition facts
18.1 Food confused! 342
label 385
18.2 Food choices: evolution or moral and ethical
20.12 Compliance date 386
blackmail! 345
20.13 Information shown on the food label in the
References 348
United Kingdom 387
20.14 Allergens 388
20.15 Food and drink warnings 389
IV 20.16 Hong Kong-Macao labeling/marking
requirements 390
Food, service, and other 20.17 Expiration <lnd use·by dates 391
deliverables in the References 391
Further reading 391
hospitality sector
21. The role of information technology in
19. The SOCiology of the chef: a new
the food industry
theoretical proposition from the open
professional kitchen
21.1 Introduction 393
21.2 MeeHls of interncriviry 394
19.1 Introduction 354
21.3 IT tools for food industry 398
19.2 The restaurant in the industrial era 354
21.4 The new opportuniries 400
19.3 The changing orientation of the
21.5 Big data 402
restaurant 355
21.6 Conclusion 404
19.4 The restaurant kitchen in the service
References 404
economy 356
 CONTENTS ix

22. Food service in hospitality 25.4 Plan daily producTion levels 465
25.5 Issue needed products to production
management
areas 466
25.6 Manage the food and beverage production
22.1 Scenario I 406
process 466
22.2 Scenario 2 406
25.7 Price the products at a price so that customers
22.3 CEOs, Director of Operations, and Genenll
feel it is a value for money opermion 468
Managers (operational level) 408
References 471
22.4 CustOmer-oriented (operarional
level) 412
References 413 26. F&B spatial design and functionality

23. The power of service quality: front-of­ 26.1 Introduction 473

26.2 Foodservice design factors: front and
house service skills
back of house-location and site
characteristics 474
23.1 Introduction 417
26.3 Spatial allocation with types of
23.2 Service and service quality 418
service 475
23.3 Managing service quality 420
26.4 The space layollt 476
23.4 The way forward 425
26.5 Femmes of a comfortable rescauran[
References 427
design 480
26.6 Thermal 480
24. The financial environment: Culinary 26.7 Ventilation 480
math 26.8 Ligluing and color 481
26.9 Acoustics 482
24.1 Percentages (%) 430 References 483
24.2 Variance 431
24.3 Avcmge check 432
24.4 Forecasting 433
24.5 The Profit and Loss (P&L) statement 434
v
24.6 The food and beverage COSt percentage on the
Summary
P&L statement 435
24.7 Analyzing the P&L scatement 436
24.8 Cost/volume/profit analysis 441 Summary: What role food ? 487
Further reading 446 General economic theory 489
Millennium Development Goals (MOO) 493
25. Controlling costs and purchasing food Nutritional guidelines 497
Glossary 503

25.1 Maintaining sales histories 448

25.2 Forecasting future sales 449 Index 507
25.3 Purchase and store-needed food and beverage
supplies 451
 List of figures
Figure 8.1 Percentage of consumers who rated “organic” as important
for their food choices..................................................................................................... 181

Figure 8.2 Percentage of consumers who rated “GM-free” as important for

their food choices........................................................................................................... 181

Figure 8.3 World map of organic agriculture: a density-equalizing map (a cartogram)

with countries sized according to their reported organic agriculture
hectares. ........................................................................................................................ 182

Figure 8.4 Global certified organic hectares show steady growth over
the past two decades, year reported Growth......................................................... 196

Figure 9.1 A simple food supply chain. .................................................................................... 202

Figure 11.1 Conceptual framework of food security. .............................................................. 243

Figure 13.1 Population: historical and projected trends. ........................................................ 259

Figure 13.2 Predictions of comparative population and food growth rates according
to Thomas Malthus................................................................................................... 260

Figure 15.1 An electric hot pot. .................................................................................................. 294

Figure 15.2 Picture of a golden ingot. ........................................................................................ 298

Figure 15.3 Nian gao. .................................................................................................................... 298

Figure 15.4 Fat choy....................................................................................................................... 299

Figure 15.5 Zongzi. ........................................................................................................................ 300

Figure 15.6 Moon cakes: Fat choy .............................................................................................. 301

Figure 16.1 Raw cacao nibs. ........................................................................................................ 307

Figure 16.2 Acai powder: So-called superfoods. ...................................................................... 309

Figure 16.3 Medicinal food: Kefir. .............................................................................................. 311

xi
xii LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 17.1 Photo of guayusa tea cooking in Amazon village. ............................................ 324

Figure 17.2 Yerba mate tea cup and straw. .............................................................................. 326

Figure 17.3 Homemade bridal doll and Macanese cake are typical table centerpieces
and wedding favors in a modern Macanese wedding banquet. ...................... 334

Figure 17.4 Galinha à Portuguesa: A typical Macanese tea party. .............................................. 335

Figure 17.5 Chá Gordo: A typical Macanese tea party. ................................................................ 337

Figure 18.1 Agricultural greenhouse gases emissions by source. .......................................... 345

Figure 19.1 The dimensions of emotional work. ...................................................................... 364

Figure 21.1 Technology and artificial intelligence in the food industry. .............................. 397

Figure 22.1 Reflecting on past decisions. .................................................................................. 408

Figure 22.2 An executive team will normally report to the Hotel Manager. ...................... 409

Figure 22.3 A typical departmental structure. .......................................................................... 410

Figure 22.4 A typical hotel team. ................................................................................................ 411

Figure 23.1 Service and service quality. .................................................................................... 419

Figure 23.2 The product/service matrix. .................................................................................. 420

Figure 26.1 Simple steps in defining the space planning in kitchens. .................................. 477

Figure 26.2 An example of foodservice design flow by Birchfield (2008). .......................... 478

Figure 26.3 An example of foodservice design flow by Payne-Palacio and

Theis (2016). .............................................................................................................. 478

Figure 26.4 An example of a bubble diagram to show the schematic relationships

between the various working areas (Mion, 2017). .............................................. 479

Figure A2.1 Balance of payments accounting system. ............................................................ 491

 List of tables
Table 1.1 Key innovations of the agricultural and industrial revolutions 9

Table 2.1 Early daily nutritional values as offered by Lusk and Chittenden 26

Table 2.2 Key early dates in biotechnology 27

Table 2.3 Key dates of the period: early 20th century 31

Table 2.4 The Royal Societys daily recommended food provision 33

Table 2.5 Daily calorie requirements as proposed by the Inter-Allied Scientific Food
Commissions 34

Table 2.6 Key dates of the period: 1918 to 30 39

Table 2.7 USDA recommended daily requirements by Hazel Stiebling (1933) 43

Table 2.8 Key dates: Biotechnology 1919 to 38 45

Table 2.9 Agreed daily requirements by the BMA and MoH 49

Table 2.10 Key dates of the period: 1931 to 34 50

Table 2.11 The League of Nations nutritional recommendations 52

Table 2.12 Nutritional recommended requirements for adults 1919 to 39 53

Table 2.13 Timeline of the discovery of particular vitamins 61

Table 2.14 The Food and Nutrition Boards 1941 recommended dietary allowances 69

Table 2.15 Key dates of the period: 1939 to 45 70

Table 3.1 Christensens energy expenditure rates at differing work levels 88

Table 3.2 Key dates of the period: 1946 to 49 90

Table 3.3 Agricultural trade development assistance Act: PL 480 92

xiii
xiv LIST OF TABLES

Table 3.4 Key dates of the period: 1950 to 59 95

Table 4.1 Key dates of the period: 1960 to 65 108

Table 4.2 Key dates of the period: 1966 to 69 109

Table 4.3 Key dates of the period: 1970 to 73 110

Table 4.4 Key dates of the period: 1974 to 79 111

Table 4.5 Genetic engineering milestones of the 1970s 114

Table 4.6 Key dates of the period: 1980 to 88 119

Table 4.7 Key dates of the period: 1990 to 95 121

Table 4.8 Genetic engineering milestones of the 1980s 126

Table 4.9 Genetically modified organisms, come of age 129

Table 4.10 Key dates of the period: mid-late 1990s 131

Table 5.1 Key dates of the period: 1996 to 99 141

Table 5.2 Key dates of the period: 2000 to 03 148

Table 6.1 A selection of development models 156

Table 7.1 Approximate farm size by region 166

Table 9.1 Features of traditional and modern food systems 204

Table 9.2 Food systems from traditional to industrialized 205

Table 9.3 Global food production commodities by Volume (2009) (million tons) 207

Table 9.4 Top corporations share of the global food processing market 2009 211

Table 14.1 Selected instruments of human rights over the centuries 275

Table 15.1 Solar terms 297

 LIST OF TABLES xv

Table 16.1 Examples of superfoods 308

Table 16.2 Examples of medicinal foods 310

Table 16.3 Food labeling 319

Table 17.1 Food classifications 325

Table 17.2 Recipe of minchi 336

Table 17.3 Recipe of bolo de chocolate 338

Table 20.1 International Service for the Acquisition of Agri-biotech Applications

(2016) 383

Table 20.2 Special product considerations: Part 1 388

Table 20.3 Special product considerations: Part 2 389

Table 20.4 An appropriate warning must be shown on the label if the food
contains certain ingredients 389

Table 22.1 Hotel A versus hotel Bs proactivity in revenue generation through

promotion 407

Table 24.1 Revenue variance 430

Table 24.2 Total food and beverage variances total 432

Table 24.3 P&L Statement for Christys Burritos for the past 2 years 435

Table 24.4 Breakdown of utilities expenses for Christys Burritos 435

Table 24.6 Breakdown of two years food costs 438

Table 24.7 Analyzing the beverage cost 438

Table 24.5 Food cost for two years 438

Table 24.8 The cost of labor 439

Table 24.9 Labor cost movement 440

xvi LIST OF TABLES

Table 24.10 An example of fixed, variable, and mixed rents 442

Table 25.1 One weeks sales history 449

Table 25.2 Sales history averages 449

Table 25.3 Rounded-off figures 450

Table 25.4 Forecasting sales volume 450

Table 25.5 A comparison sheet 457

Table 25.6 A price comparison sheet 457

Table 25.7 The daily inventory sheet 458

Table 25.8 An example of a purchase order 458

Table 25.9 A costed inventory stock list 461

Table 25.10 Tabulated inventory value 461

Table 25.11 Hugos Big Restaurant costs 464

Table 25.12 Example of production schedule 465

Table 25.13 Example of a food requisition order 466

Table 26.1 Space allocation for different type of foodservice operations 475

Table: A3.1 The official list of Millennium Development Goals (MDG) indicators
that emerged out of the Millennium Summit 493

Table A4.1 Macro- and micronutrient guidelines of the European Union (EU),
United States (USA), and World Health Organization (WHO) for adult
men and women 498
 Table of equations

Equation 2.1: Predictive BMR Formula ........................................................................................ 33

Equation 24.1: Percentage (%) means part of a whole 1 ........................................................ 430
Equation 24.2: Percentage (%) means part of a whole 2 ........................................................ 430
Equation 24.3: Revenue variance ................................................................................................ 431
Equation 24.4: Variance in revenue 2017/2018. ........................................................................ 431
Equation 24.5: Revenue variance %. .......................................................................................... 431
Equation 24.6: Beach Front revenue variance %. ...................................................................... 431
Equation 24.7: The average food check ...................................................................................... 432
Equation 24.8: The average beverage check .............................................................................. 432
Equation 24.9: Total food and beverage variances broken down. ........................................ 432
Equation 24.10: Gibby’s French Burger Town Centre revenue variance. ............................ 433
Equation 24.11: The forecasted revenue. .................................................................................... 433
Equation 24.12: Forecasted revenue for next year .................................................................... 434
Equation 24.13: Calculating expenses ........................................................................................ 434
Equation 24.14: Calculating food and beverage costs .............................................................. 436
Equation 24.15: Christy’s Burrito’s food cost % and beverage cost % .................................. 436
Equation 24.16: Christy’s Burrito sales variance for this year in comparison to
last year: .............................................................................................................. 437
Equation 24.17: Calculating the labor cost ................................................................................ 439
Equation 24.18: Calculating other expenses .............................................................................. 440
Equation 24.19: Analysing the profit .......................................................................................... 440
Equation 24.20: Calculating profit variance .............................................................................. 441
Equation 24.21: Contribution margin P&L statement .............................................................. 442
Equation 24.22: Average check (AC) per guest ........................................................................ 443
Equation 24.23: Calculating the variable costs per guest ........................................................ 443
Equation 24.24: Calculating contribution margin per guest.................................................... 443
Equation 24.25: Calculating contribution margin and variable cost...................................... 443
Equation 24.26: The breakeven point % .................................................................................... 444
Equation 24.27: The break-even point $ .................................................................................... 444
Equation 24.28: The break-even point in number of guests.................................................... 445
Equation 24.29: Creating revenue to reach a desired profit.................................................... 445
Equation 25.1: The factor method: .............................................................................................. 452
Equation 25.2: The factor method example: .............................................................................. 452
Equation 25.3: The concept of the edible portion: .................................................................... 453
Equation 25.4: Calculating the waste (%) of product .............................................................. 453
Equation 25.5: Calculating the yield (%) of product (Number 1).......................................... 454
Equation 25.6: Calculating the yield (%) of product (Number 2).......................................... 454
Equation 25.7: Calculating the AP weight required ................................................................ 454
Equation 25.8: Total cost required to meet sufficient edible portions .................................. 454

xvii
xviii TABLE OF EQUATIONS

Equation 25.9: Calculating the EP cost ...................................................................................... 455

Equation 25.10: Calculating the order amount.......................................................................... 456
Equation 25.11: The weighted average price of inventory ...................................................... 462
Equation 25.12: Calculating the inventory value of the item.................................................. 462
Equation 25.13: Alternative method of calculating inventory value .................................... 462
Equation 25.14: The basic formula to calculate the cost of food issued is: .......................... 463
Equation 25.15: Calculating the cost of multiple outlets¼conditions .................................... 463
Equation 25.16: Transfers effects on food costs ........................................................................ 463
Equation 25.17: Cost of food sold at Hugo’s Place .................................................................. 464
Equation 25.18: Cost of food sold in % at Hugo’s Place ........................................................ 464
Equation 25.19: Cost of food sold in % at Hugo’s Place ........................................................ 465
Equation 25.20: Calculating revenue .......................................................................................... 469
Equation 25.21: Product cost ........................................................................................................ 471
Equation 25.22: The contribution margin:.................................................................................. 471
 Contributors

People who have helped shape this book are listed below. Without their valuable con-
tributions, this book would not have been possible. To them, I owe a great deal of gratitude
and respect.
Mark Gibson (PhD) Chammy Lai Peng Tai Msc
John Paull (PhD) Ricky On Peng Sou MSc MBA
Mukta Das (PhD) Cindia Ching Chi Lam (PhD)
Loi Kim Ieng (Connie) (PhD) Grant O’Bree (MSc)
Lei Weng Si (Clara) (PhD) Miguel Gassmann de Oliveira (MBA)
Ubaldino Couto (MSc) Marta Hoi Yan Lam (PhD)
David Graham (PhD) Florence Iok San Lam MSc MBA
David Wiley (MSc) Alan Wan Lok Cheng Master of Accountancy
Christy Ng Yen Nee (PhD)

Chapters, affiliations, and biographies

Front Matter
By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 1: Sociopolitical food and nutrition: pre-20th century

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 2: The 20th century: winds of change (1900-45)

By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 3: Food, rights, and politics: the post-war years (1945-60)

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 4: Mixed blessings: a time of hope and crisis (1960-2000)

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

xix
xx CONTRIBUTORS

Chapter 5: The 21st century: ideological convergence

By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 6: The beginnings of modern development theory

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 7: Agriculture, forestry, and fisheries

By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 8: Organic food and agriculture

By John Paull PhD

School of Land & Food, University of Tasmania, Australia
Dr. John Paull is an environmental scientist at the University of Tasmania in the College of
Science and Engineering. He is the editor of the open-access peer-reviewed Journal of Organics.
He has recently been a visiting academic at the University of Oxford. He has degrees in
mathematics, psychology, and environmental science. He has presented his research at many
international conferences, in Europe, Asia, and Australasia. He has published extensively in
international journals with many of his papers available at http://utas.academia.edu/
JohnPaull. He is the author of books including The Value of Eco-labelling (2009) and book
chapters in Marketing of Organic Products (2008), Island Futures (2011), Diversifying Food and Diets
(2013), Organics in the Global Food Chain (2013), Good Food for All (2014), Sustainable Development
of Organic Agriculture (2017), Encyclopedia of Food and Agricultural Ethics (2018), and
Global Leadership Initiatives for Conflict Resolution and Peacebuilding (2018).

Chapter 9: From agriculture to the global food chain/system

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 10: Global food waste

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 11: The Hunger files: food security

By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below
 CONTRIBUTORS xxi

Chapter 12: Food: natural and environmental considerations

By Mark Gibson PhD
Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 13: Food: population rise and sustainability

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 14: Governance and food

By Mukta Das PhD and Mark Gibson PhD

Mukta Das PhD
SOAS Food Studies Centre, SOAS University of London

Mukta Das studied Anthropology of Food at SOAS Food Studies Centre, SOAS University
of London. Her current research focuses on China’s ascendancy as a global power and South
Asian migration into the Pearl River Delta, exploring this through ideas of taste and
aesthetics, food festivals, and heritage projects. Before this, Mukta worked for several NGOs
as well as in the private sector in Asia. She has a master’s in the Anthropology of Food and
also in History of China and India.

Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 15: Food & social trends

By Lei Weng Si (Clara) PhD and Loi Kim Ieng (Connie) PhD
Lei Weng Si (Clara) PhD
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Clara is an Assistant Professor at the Institute for Tourism Studies, Macau, China. She
received her PhD in International Business from the University of Leeds in the United
Kingdom. Her research interests rest on festivals and event management, management ed-
ucation, and cross-cultural food issues and trends. Prior stepping into the academia, Clara
worked in the industries for some years and took part mostly in marketing and management.
Clara likes traveling and trekking. Her footprint covered six of the seven continents. South
America is her favorite continent, where she trekked Torres del Paine, Patagonia, and enjoyed
the rich food culture very much.
Loi Kim Ieng (Connie) PhD
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
A local of Macao and currently the Assistant Professor at Institute for Tourism Studies
(IFT) Macao, Connie developed her interest in the tourism and hospitality field at an early
age. To pursue this interest, she completed her bachelor degree in Tourism Business Man-
agement with a concentration in Hotel Management at IFT. Thereafter, she obtained MSc in
Financial Management from the University of London. Her PhD in Tourism at the James
xxii CONTRIBUTORS

Cook University in Australia strengthens her perspectives on destination marketing, tourism

product development, and benchmarking studies. Connie’s research interests include enter-
tainment development in tourism destinations; destination positioning and benchmarking;
tourist behavior; tourism product diversification; hotel guest satisfaction, service quality, and
loyalty; and the like.
Besides academic development, Connie is a big fan of pottery art, which she has been
practicing for more than 10 years.

Chapter 16: Trending foods

By Lei Weng Si (Clara) PhD

Clara’s Bio e See above

Chapter 17: Food, culture & food tourism

By Lei Weng Si (Clara) PhD and Ubaldino Couto MSc

Clara’s Bio e See above
Ubaldino Couto MSc
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Ubaldino Couto is a lecturer in event management at the Institute for Tourism Studies in
Macao. He is a specialist in festivals, and his research explores the role of festive events in
achieving positive social outcomes. Ubaldino is also interested in diaspora communities,
particularly the aspects of cultural identity, and how it is manifested to other cultures. He is
actively engaged in institute-wide projects and also in the community. He was invited in an
expert delegation to Amakusa, Japan, to advise the local government and companies on
harnessing the Portuguese-influenced heritage for business and tourism. Ubaldino was also
invited to local schools and universities abroad to deliver short courses and seminars on
a variety of topics. He is also a mentor and works closely with young aspiring professionals.
Ubaldino advocates equality through research, specifically, in race, gender, sexuality, and
access issues.

Chapter 18: Feeding the future: challenges and limitations

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Chapter 19: The sociology of the chef: a new theoretical proposition from
the open professional kitchen
By David Graham PhD
Department of Service Sector Management; Sheffield Hallam University
David spent the early years of his career in the restaurant and hotel and licensed retail
trade working for large multinational chains, followed by ownership of his own restaurants
and coffee shop businesses. On selling his business interests, he moved into further and
higher education, teaching and researching at Huddersfield Technical College, Leeds Met-
ropolitan University, and more recently at Sheffield Hallam University.
 CONTRIBUTORS xxiii
He is committed Principal Lecturer who has a passion for internationalization in the
curriculum and champions the use of technology to facilitate cross-boundary interactions.
David has been a leader in the application of video conferencing to enhance the student
learning experience.
David holds a teaching qualification, degree, and masters from Huddersfield University
and a PhD from Sheffield Hallam University along with other professional qualifications. He
has worked on national committees for teaching and learning, validated degree and master’s
awards for other further and higher education providers, and has externally examined in the
United Kingdom and overseas. He has never lost sight of his early career in hospitality and
continues to teach and research in this area, presenting and writing articles centered on food
and beverage management.

Chapter 20: Food ingredients

By David Wiley MSc and Christy Ng Yen Nee PhD

David Wiley MSc
Macao Institute for Tourism Studies (IFTM), Macao, China
Mr. David C. Wiley, Jr is a lecturer at the Institute for Tourism Studies, Macau. He holds
a Master of Science degree in Hospitality Management from Florida International University.
Mr. Wiley teaches courses related to Food and Beverage, including Nutrition and Food
Safety, and is also a ServSafe-certified instructor and proctor.

Christy Ng Yen Nee PhD

Macao Institute for Tourism Studies (IFTM), Macao, China
Dr. Christy Ng Yen Nee is an Assistant Professor at the Institute for Tourism Studies,
Macau. She holds a PhD in Hospitality Administration from the Oklahoma State University,
USA. She is a certified proctor and has taught Food Safety (ServSafe) and Nutrition classes for
more than 8 years. Dr. Ng has research interests in relationship marketing, customer sat-
isfaction, job satisfaction, and service quality.

Chapter 21: The role of information technology in the food industry

By Chammy Lai Peng Tai Msc, Ricky On Peng Sou MSc MBA and Cindia Ching
Chi Lam PhD
Chammy Lai Peng Tai Msc
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Chammy Tai received her Master Degree in Public Administration from the Peking
University. She has broad experience in the IT industry lasting for more than 20 years and
focusing on system development areas and academic projects in tertiary education.
Ricky On Peng Sou MSc MBA
General Manager (IT and Operation) of TEDMEV Macau EDI Van, S.A. Macao, China
Ricky On Peng Sou has over 19 years’ experience in the field of information technology,
he is experienced in setting up and managing an entire IT system for several enterprises. He
obtained his Master Degrees in Computer Science at the Macau University of Science and
Technology and University of Macau in Business Administration, respectively. Mr. Sou has
comprehensive knowledge in information security area, and he is a Certified Information
System Auditor and has good experience in auditing ISO27001 system. Mr. Sou possesses
xxiv CONTRIBUTORS

remarkable experience in BPR (Business Process Reengineering) projects, possessing strong

knowledge of Electronic Data Interchange system. He is also familiar with Web-based ap-
plications and Smart Phone Apps development projects and has provided successful eCus-
tom solutions to various governmental departments.
Cindia Ching Chi Lam PhD
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Cindia Ching Chi Lam is the Assistant Professor and Academic Coordinator of the
Evening Degree Programmes of Institute for Tourism Studies, Macau, and has been a mem-
ber of the governing committee, Technical and Scientific Council, for years. Dr. Lam is a local
from Macao, graduated from University of Southern Queensland (Australia) with a Bachelor
of Science, completed her master degree at Heriot-Watt University (England), and earned her
PhD from the Catholic University of Portugal (Portugal). Dr. Lam specializes in teaching
service quality and accounting-related courses. Her research focuses on tourism and hospi-
tality areas that spans from the development of tourism products (including medical tourism)
and destination positioning to service quality, customer behavior, and corporate social
responsibility. Her research works have been published in different books and journals,
including Journal of Hospitality and Tourism Management, Journal of China Tourism
Research, Tourism Review, etc, and she also serves as the reviewer for numerous interna-
tional journals. Dr. Lam has worked on numerous government policy and commercial
consultancy projects, including “Construction of Macao into a liveable and leisure city”
(commissioned by Conselho Executivo of the Macao Special Administrative Region), “A
Study on the Perceptions and Cognition of Fair Trade in Macao” (commissioned by Oxfam),
“A Study on the Current Situation of Parental Bonding in Macao” (commissioned by Gabi-
nete de Apoio ao Ensino Superior/Kiang Wu Nursing College), etc.

Chapter 22: Food service in hospitality management

By Grant O’Bree MSc

Institute for Tourism Studies Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Following a career spanning over 20 years in the tourism and management industries
within the Asia-Pacific and Middle Eastern regions, Grant turned his hand to higher
education. Since becoming a lecturer, Grant has educated a diverse background of students in
Human Resource Management, Digital Marketing, Organisational Behaviour, Hotel Opera-
tions, and F&B Cost Control and Lodging Management. Grant has held roles at the
University of Queensland teaching in the Master of Hotel Management program and Think
education as lecturer. Grant has an extensive range of international experiences within
academia and industry, enabling him to deliver courses utilizing a holistic and well-rounded
perspective. Grant currently works at the Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao SAR, where he
lectures in various hotel and core management subjects.

Chapter 23: The power of service quality: front-of-house service skills

By Florence Iok San Lam MSc, Alan Wan Lok Cheng Master of Accountancy and Cindia
Ching Chi Lam PhD
Florence Iok San Lam MSc
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
 CONTRIBUTORS xxv
Florence Iok San Lam is the adjunct Lecturer at the Institute for Tourism Studies (IFT).
She has taught Leadership, Human Resources Management, and Principles of Management
for the Institute’s Daytime Degree Programmes, as well as Principles of Management and
Tourism Product Management for the Evening Degree Programmes. She is a local from
Macao, graduated from IFT with a Bachelor of Arts and the Excellence Award, and com-
pleted her master degree at the University of Groningen, the Netherlands. She has lived,
studied, and worked in Macao, the Netherlands, Scotland, London (UK), Lisbon (Portugal),
and Poland, having worked in the oil and gas, entertainment, and arts and cultural sector.
Currently, she is the Director of Iao Hin Gallery, Macao, and a contributing writer for the
Opinion pages of Macau Closer. As an active member of Macao’s society supporting social
progress and development, she has been included in Macau News as one of the city’s movers
and shakers.
Alan Wan Lok Cheng Master of Accountancy
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Alan Cheng is an instructor in front office operations at the Institute for Tourism Studies,
Macau SAR. He has been in this position teaching front desk theory and practicum since
August 2012. Alan commenced his hospitality career in 1999 when he was offered an
opportunity to assist with starting a new motel in Sydney, Australia. Then, his position as the
general manager at the property gave him the opportunity of providing on-the-job training to
the front office staff.
Cindia Ching Chi Lam PhD
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Cindia’s Bio e See above

Chapter 24: The financial environment: culinary math

By Miguel Gassmann de Oliveira MBA
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Miguel Gassmann de Oliveira has been fortunate to work most of his career in an area he is
passionate about; Hotels and Food and Beverage operations. He holds a degree in Hotel
management from Escola de Hotelaria e Turismo do Porto, a Bachelor’s degree in Tourism
Management from IFT, and a Master of Business Administration with a Major in Finance
from the Instituto Inter-Universitário de Macau and the Universidade Católica de Lisboa.
With over 10 years’ experience in the many sectors of the local hotel industry with a focus on
Food and Beverage as well as spending the last 11 years teaching Hotel and F&B-related
subjects, he has had the opportunity to share this passion with his students. At present,
Miguel is lecturing on Theory and Practice of Restaurant and Bar, F&B Cost Control, Hotel
Operations, Introduction to Gastronomy, and Food Product Knowledge II at the IFT

Chapter 25: Controlling costs and purchasing food

By Miguel Gassmann de Oliveira MBA
Miguel’s Bio e See above
xxvi CONTRIBUTORS

Chapter 26: F&B spatial design and functionality

By Marta Hoi Yan Lam PhD
Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao (IFTM): Colina de Mong-Há Macao, China
Marta Lam obtained her PhD, titled “Thermal Performance of Deciduous Climbing Plants
on Glazed Building Façades’ in 2007 at University of Brighton, UK. Her interest on envi-
ronmentally friendly building designs leads her to the engineering and construction field in
one of the fastest growing cities, Macau. Prior Marta become an educator in Institute For
Tourism Studies (IFT), she worked in the industry on decoration and project management in
various fit-out projects of Venetian Cotai Resorts.
With increasing variety of subsidiary services provided within buildings, the sector of
facilities management becoming more and more important in the hospitality field. Marta
started teaching facilities management in Institute for Tourism Studies since year 2011. Later,
when Culinary Arts program was also introduced in IFT, she also took up the role in teaching
kitchen and restaurant design. Marta wishes to help students to understand how services are
planned, designed, layout, and maintained within the superstructure.

Summary: What role food?

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Appendices

General economic theory

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Millennium Development Goals (MDG)

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Nutritional guidelines

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below

Glossary

By Mark Gibson PhD

Mark’s Bio See Below
 Biography

Mark Gibson

Before he began his academic career, Invited Assistant

Professor Dr. Mark Gibson worked in the food and beverage
industry for more than 20 years in various roles including
chef, consultancy, and front of house manager. After so many
years in the industry, Mark had a change of direction and
undertook both his Masters and PhD in Food Management,
Environmental Sustainability, and Food Security at Manchester
Metropolitan University (United Kingdom).
Dr. Gibson has just finished an 8-year mid- to senior-level
posting at the Institute for Tourism Studies, Macao. As part of
the coordinating team, he helped to develop several new
postgraduate Master’s degrees: two of which include Food and
Beverage Management and in Issues of Gastronomy. Mark also
sat on several academic bodies from the CTC through to the
pedagogical council as well as the coordinator’s panel. After his
stint at IFTM, Mark is now taking a break to finish another book after which he will consider
a new role as an author, educator, researcher, consultant, environmentalist, food and society
practitioner, and gastronomic social scientist among other things.
Some notable publications include several books, papers, and articles about food and its
many surrounding issues. In addition to writing books and articles, Dr. Gibson is also an
associate editor and reviewer for several food-related journals. He also helped with
“Foodsource”da research and policy unit based in the Social Sciences Division of the
University of Oxford’s, Environmental Change Institute. Amid all this, Mark continues to
write books on the broad subjects of food and food-related material while acting as an ad-hoc
consultant for the United Nations.

xxvii
 Foreword

By 2050, the population of the Earth is views that rely less on big production in-
expected to top out at just over 9 billion. creases but more toward a suite of initiatives
Such numbers will need to be supported in that include efficiency savings from tech-
terms of clothing, housing, and being fed all nology, etc., as well as measures to decrease
from a single resource: the Earth. From the a shamefully large component of food
perspective of food, this challenge is exacer- wastage.
bated especially when considering that Of course and once again, this is the
presently, and for many years now, there simplified version, and one goal of this book
still exists a large cohort of the population is to highlight the many considerations,
that remain persistently undernourished. arguments, and areas of acrimony that besets
This figure varies a lot e and ranges from a holistic view of food and culture as well
between 8-900 million people. With this in as many other areas vis-a-vis supply and
mind, the global community is without demand, environmentalism, globalization,
doubt in agreement with the need to increase population sustainability, and many others.
the global food supply. However, any in- Moreover, food, being the theme of this
crease in the food supply has to meet book, is discussed at every level and from
persistent present shortfalls as well as future many conceivable angles.
projected needs. Such a rise in production To give some sort of overview, some
has been estimated to be in the region of perspective, or background if you like, the
around 70%. Of course, this is perhaps an first few chapters delve briefly into the recent
unforgiveable oversimplification, as in truth history of the growing importance of food
there currently does exist sufficient produc- from the sole perspective of sustenance
tion to feed the existing population on a through to food and the environment and
daily basis; the problem is one of food many other subjects in between. As a result,
security; in essence there are many issues of these few sections evaluate the definitive
access and stability among other things that growth and maturation in the worldwide
cloud the food issue. Having said that, aspects of food and by extension the multi-
despite such issues, there is a need, a very lateral landscape of social accountability.
real need to increase food availability by a Achievements unfold and are examined and
whopping 70%. evaluated to understand contemporary in-
Without getting into too much detail for fluences or forces in action. Starting with
the moment, the elephant in the room here is communal or social collectivization, a
the use of the word availability. That is to narrative unfolds, whereby agronomy and
say, for a while there was much talk by the technological and scientific advances are
United Nations and others of this need for a shown to adapt to the ever-increasing pop-
70% increase in food productiondonly now ulation numbers.
are people beginning to accept alternative

xxix
xxx FOREWORD

A tall order without a doubt and one in guesstimates, and considered opinions will
which the book tackles in a very overarching be sought in lieu. In essence, the core of this
way. Lastly, this book aims to be academic in work looks to bring together or to assimilate
nature: both rigorous and supported by solid if you like as much of the concept of
data. Much of the data is empirical in food from many different perspectives as is
nature and, where supporting data cannot be possible.
found, alternative acceptable estimates,
 Preface: What role food?

Society has always had a unique and Nowadays, food choices are increasingly
special relationship with fooddnot solely based on considerations of more than just
because of the need for sustenance but also in basic survival, instead they go on to include
the way people have developed “cultural” considerations of health, ethics and morality,
values and traditions surrounding the way cultural identity, price, geographic location,
we cherish and treat food and feeding and naturally personal preferences. This
practices. Such values, whether knowingly or in turn invokes considerations of politics,
not, affect all manners of race, religions, economics, technologies, and other
cultures, and subcultures. Indeed, in this variablesdall of which affects or is affected
regard, individuals, groups, races, and by globalization, world trade, and cultural
cultures have formed practices and habits evolution among many other concepts. The
that have dominated the food landscape for following chapters in part-one aim to explore
millennia. Undeniably, practices that have the role of food within some of these contexts;
origins in personal or shared values have, in particular, emphasis is placed on trends
for the most part, transformed food into that have generally influenced today’s food
occasions, into feasts and ceremonies, or choices as well as the drivers of change
more simply into pleasurable past times. within the food we consume. It also serves as
Furthermore, the role of food reflects very a general overviewda barometer of social
personal groups’ or individuals’ values and, constructs and paradigms that have evolved
as such, one person or culture’s food practices over the yearsdoften, but not always, from
might not sit well with another’s set of “food the perspective of three thematic areas: those
values.” From this, it can be seen that the role of food and politics; food and economics; and
of food in society varies greatly and never food and sociocultural perspectives.
more so than in today’s globalized world.

xxxi
 Acknowledgments

Writing this book has been an incredible Another individual who I would like to
journey. After having been a chef for over thank is Flora for her patience and under-
20 years and after my Masters, PhD, and standing; indeed, despite her busy schedule,
10-year worth of studies, I thought I was she always made herself accessible for
especially well versed in the subject of food advice, as a mentor or simply for a chat; in
from cooking to culture. The things I never this I am truly grateful. I would lastly like to
knew and indeed the things I wish I had thank others including my students for their
known could have without doubt made me a wit and energy, my colleagues for the never-
more knowledgeable chef. And yet, the more ending banter, which is always a welcome
I research, the more I find of what there is to aside. Collectively these people have pro-
know. Of course, this has had a lot to do vided me with insight, clarification, and di-
with the pure breadth along with the many rection as well as the occasional “push.”
various disciplines within the Food and I would especially like to thank certain
Society field. In this regard I have been very close friends, colleagues, and loved ones who
lucky in working alongside some professional have also been enduringly supportive and
and enthusiastic individuals who have pro- inspirationaldHugo, Christy, Jerome, Jeffrey,
vided both encouragement and the occasional Marieta, Miguel, David G, David Wong,
epiphany. These range from the Institute’s Hans, Helen, Jamie-Leigh, Alan, Leona,
President Dr. Fanny Vong through to Connie Mikey, Dell, Paul Jones, Flora and Awan
and Florence. Wan, Paul and Vee Parsons, Florita Alves,
There are a few other people too, who Widy Astutik, Riri and of course the con-
have helped in this journey and to whom I tributors of the book who are introduced
owe a great deal of gratitude. I would also later as well as many more other people who
like to thank Pat Newsham who was have provided constant support and a little
particularly generous with his time and who nudge now and again.
has provided the illustrations for this book.

xxxiii
Other documents randomly have
different content
voice behind said in English,—“Damn it, that cussed sergeant has
plugged it up.”
From the shelter I could see a nondescript figure clad in an old,
abbreviated bath-robe, tassels hanging down in front, shoes
unlaced, rifle in hand, ruefully gazing at a new stack of sandbags,
which blocked a small exit into “No-Man’s-Land.” He might have
been a soldier but he did not look it. He might have been French,
but America was stamped all over that free-moving, powerful figure,
in his quick acting, decisive manner and set jaws, square-cut, like a
paving block.
Thus, we two Americans, who had arrived from different
directions, each animated by the same idea, sat down at the
jumping off place amid those unnatural surroundings and got
acquainted.
It was bizarre. The devilishness, the beauty, alternately, shocked
the feelings or soothed the senses. Darkness and grotesque
shadows, intermingled with colored illumination, scattering streams
of golden hail, followed by red flame and acolytes, while sharp,
white streaks of cannon fire winked, blinked, and were lost in the
never-ending din. Between the occasional roll of musketry and the
rat-rat-tat-tat of machine guns, we watched the pyrotechnic display
and talked.
Yes, he was an American, and had been ten months without a
furlough. He had been out in front sniping all the afternoon. That
cheapskate sergeant, who is always nosing around, must have
missed him and closed up the outlet.
“Yes,” he soliloquized, “the world is not fit to live in any more. The
Kaiser has mobilized God Almighty. The Crown Prince said he could
bring the Devil from hell with his brave German band. The Mexicans
broke up my business and destroyed my happy home. Here in
France, they made me take off my good clothes and don these glad
rags. This bath robe is all I have left of my ancient grandeur—and
there is not much of it, but it is all wool and a yard wide—not as
long as it used to be, but it is warm. I know it looks like hell, but it is
a sort of comfort to me, and is associated with happier days.
 “Yes,” he ruminated, ”if I am not careful I won’t have enough left
to make a pocket handkerchief. Here I have taken five or six pair of
Russian socks from it, and bandaged up Pierre’s wound, and I only
have enough for four more pairs of socks after I have taken some
pieces to clean my rifle with.”
He was a man of unusual history, even for the Legion. Some
months previous, seeing an Alsatian officer strike a small man, the
American stepped up and said: “Why don’t you take a man your own
size?” For answer the officer pulled a revolver and thrust it at his
breast. Dubois, gazing down through the eyes of the officer, clear
into his heart, said: “Shoot, damn you, shoot. You dare not; you
have not got the nerve!”
He was an expert gymnast. He played the piano, accompanying
the singers at concerts, during repose. When encored, he came back
with a song in French. In conquered Alsace, he spoke German with
the natives.
On the day we made the 48-kilometer march to the summit of
Ballon d’Alsace and back, while the company was resting Dubois was
striding up and down, knapsack on back, hands in pockets. I said:
“What are you doing? Can’t you sit down and rest?”
“Oh,” he replied, “I was telling the lieutenant that instead of
poking along with these short, fiddling steps, the men should march
out like this,—like we do in America!” It is a fact that the French take
the longest strides, and are the best marchers in the world!
 CHAPTER VIII
JULY 4, 1915

Several American journalists, “May their tribe increase!” among

them Mr. Grundy, of the New York Sun; Nabob Hedin, of the
Brooklyn Eagle; Mr. Mower, of the Chicago Daily News; Mr. Roberts,
of the Associated Press, and Wythe Williams, of the New York Times,
presented a petition to the Minister of War for the Americans to
celebrate Independence Day in Paris. It was granted. The good news
made a bigger noise on the front than the heaviest bomb that ever
fell. It did not seem possible,—too good to be true!
Previously, no one, French or foreigner, soldier or officer, had been
allowed to leave his post. From then on, everyone received his
regular furlough at stated intervals—more liberal as danger lessened.
Now, each man is granted ten days every four months.
 Evening of July 3d I was on guard in front of Fort Brimont, three
kilometers from Rheims, when Dubois put his head around a corner
and yelled, “Come on, we are going to Paris.” I paid no attention to
him. I had not asked for a furlough, and, of course, did not expect
any.
A few minutes later Dubois roared, “Come on, you fool, don’t you
know enough to take a furlough when you can get one? All
Americans can go to Paris.” When the corporal came around I asked
to be relieved, went to the captain and was told we had forty-eight
hours permission; to pack up at once and go.
We walked through the communication trenches to battalion
headquarters among falling shells. These made Dubois stop and say:
“Damn it, it would just be my luck to get killed now; I would not
mind if I were coming back from Paris, but if the Boche get me now
I shall not be able to rest in my grave.”
 At the battalion headquarters we were lined up in the darkness.
An officer with a flashlight read off the names. Each man stepped
out and received his furlough as his name was called. The officer
stopped reading, Dubois still stood in line. Then he stepped up,
saluted, and asked for his furlough. There was none.
It was a dramatic moment. Sergeant Bouligny came out from the
darkness, and a spirited argument occurred between him and the
officer. The American sergeant then came over to Dubois and said:
“It’s a damned shame. They held that five years (suspended
sentence for sleeping, when lost by a patrol in ‘No-Man’s-Land’) over
you. Now, man to man, I want you to promise me you will go right
back to your company. I told them you would. I stood good for you.
The colonel must sign that furlough. He is not here and we can’t do
a thing to help you.” It was sad. The poor fellow was crushed. We
walked away, leaving him in the darkness with his bitter thoughts.
We arrived at Thill near midnight and were depositing our
equipment at the guardhouse when a guard came and said to me:
“The sentinel wishes to see you.” I went out and there was old Tex
Bondt! “Yes,” he said, “I am sentinel tonight. Last night I was in
prison. This is it, the prisoners are out working. I drew eight days for
trying to be reasonable. Reason is all right in its place, but not in the
army. They nearly worked me to death. We were carrying timbers to
the front line to make dugouts—three men to a stick. I was in the
middle and I am six foot three!”
Next morning Bouligny and I tried to find some breakfast. The
town was deserted, badly shot-up. Stores were empty, civilians
gone. Prospects looked bad, when a gunny-sack was drawn back
from a doorway, and a voice yelled out, in English: “Here, where in
the devil are you fellows going? Come up and have a cup of coffee.”
It was Tony Pollet, of Corona, New York.[D]

D. In October, 1917, dressed in the French uniform, I was walking

up the street near the Grand Central Station, New York. A civilian
accosted me in French. We conversed in that language for some
time. He worked the third degree, asked about Battalion D, and
mentioned several names of men I knew. I turned on him and said,
“You must have known Tony Pollet.” The civilian stopped short,
finally found his voice, and gasped out, “Pollet?—that’s me!”

In the early morning we walked fifteen kilometers to the railroad

and waited for the other Americans to arrive. Capdeville found some
grease. Sweeney went to a French camp and talked some potatoes
from them. So we ate “French fried,” with wine, till the train started
for Paris.
Dr. Van Vorst was ranking officer, but Morlae and Sweeney sparred
for ground. Said Morlae to Delpeshe: “You do that again and I will
turn you over to the gendarmes.” Delpesche replied: “Who in hell are
you? I am taking no orders from you. I belong to Sergeant
Sweeney’s section!”
Soubiron had the time of his life. He rode down on the foot-board
of the coach. He was determined not to miss the green fields, the
lovely flowers and the smiles of the girls, as they wished the
Americans “Bon Voyage.” Everything was beautiful after the drab and
dirt of the front.
On the platform at Paris the two sergeants were still disputing. A
petite Parisienne stepped up to Sweeney, saying: “Pardon, Monsieur,
you came from near Rheims; did you see anyone from the 97th
Regiment on the train?” The 97th had been badly cut up. Sweeney
remembered that. In an instant his face changed. He smiled back at
the girl and answered: “No, there were no French permissionaires;
only Americans were on the train.”
Two days later each man was relating his experiences:
The base-ball man from San Francisco: “Yes, I arrived in Paris
without a sou. I saw you fellows scatter in all directions, and did not
know what to do with myself. Two French ladies came along and
invited me home with them. They paid all my expenses and gave me
this five franc note and a sack of food to eat on my way back.”
Percy: “That New York Sun man, Grundy, found five of us at the
Cafe de la Paix. He ordered dinner. It cost him 120 francs. That was
the best dinner I ever ate, but, Lord, I wish I had the money it cost!”
 Nelson: “Yes, my patron almost threw a fit when I blew in, but
the best of the house was at my service, good bath, clean
underclothes—don’t know where they came from, or whom they
belonged to. But they insisted on my keeping them.”
Morlae: “Yes, I was up at the Embassy, saw Frazier and he told
me....”
Bob Scanlon: “My friends were out of town but left word that I
should have the best there was. So I went up to Place Pigalle and
inquired for a girl I knew, Susie, and they fished out a man six foot
high!”
Dowd: “Yes, that Frenchman was splendid. When he learned we
were Americans he invited us to the banquet given by the American
Chamber of Commerce at the Palais d’Arsay. There was just one
table of us soldiers of the Legion and two long tables of men from
the American Ambulance. The Frenchmen were glad to see us—the
Ambulance men did not seem glad at all.
“‘How is that,’ said an American visitor, speaking to a well-dressed,
manicured doctor, ‘are there many Americans in the Legion?’
“‘I don’t know.’
“‘Well, aren’t there a good many of our boys there?’
“‘There may be, but, of course, WE don’t know them.’”
Idaho Contractor: “Yes, you fellows can talk about what you
ate. When I got over to Place Clichy, it was 9 o’clock. Madame was
closing up—all she had left was beans and vinegar. I had had no
vinegar for ten months. Beans must be bad for the stomach. My
appetite went wrong just the time I needed it most. I did not enjoy
myself at all.”
Van Vorst: “Yes, I went over to Pickpus and saw the American
Ambulance. They looked very nice and clean but did not recognize
the dirty soldiers from the Legion, but the French officers did.”
Bouligny: “I missed everything, did not know there was anything
doing any place. Thought the 4th was on Sunday; didn’t know they
were holding 4th on the 5th.”
Narutz: “Yes, I had a bully time. Met some old friends at the
American Express Company’s office.”
Seeger: “I heard Sweeney was promoted to a lieutenancy.”
 Capdeville: “What do you think I am carrying this American flag
for? Of course, I am going to use it.”
Delpesche: “What are all you fellows carrying in those packages?
You look like a lot of farmers who just received a consignment from
Sears-Roebuck.”
King: “Yes, we bought this dollar stuff cheap, just 98 cents and
freight.”
 CHAPTER IX
OUTPOST LIFE

In front of Croane, where, in 1814, Frank and Hun fought for

mastery, one hundred years later, the same nations again battled.
The elaborate, naturally drained trench system of to-day was not.
Instead of the horizon blue, the French soldier wore the old red
pantaloons and dark blue coat. Occasionally new blue uniforms were
sent to the front, which, wet a couple of times—the new dyes not
holding—quickly become drab. Torn clothes, ripped, crawling
through barbed wire, are held together by finer wires. New York
Heralds and Daily Mails wrapped around socks to help keep in the
heat, warm not alone the cockles of the heart, but the soles of the
feet. No smoking cook-kitchen, with steaming kettles filled with tasty
food followed our ranks on march. Soup dishes and kettles are
carried on knapsack, as in the days of Napoleon. At the end of a
long march, at bivouac time, if the commissary has not made
connection weary soldiers throw their kettles away. If caught, eight
days in prison, they welcome as relief.
The Germans held Croane—the French and Germans, alternately,
occupied the village of Croanelle, dominated by the fortress of
Croane. This was before the days of the present heavy
bombardment, and many of the deserted houses were still intact,
beds unmade, dishes yet upon table, furnished, but vacant. Cattle,
tied to mangers, lay dead in their stabs. In cellars, where
combatants had tunneled through to connect, the dead of both sides
lay impaled on bayonets. One Frenchman’s teeth were at a German’s
throat, locked in combat, even in death.
 Out between the lines lay the unburied dead, in all shapes and
conditions of rot, settled in the mud, half buried in open shell holes.
Dried fragments of uniforms flapped on barbed wire through which
the wounded had crawled into sheltered corners and died. No need
to tell a patrol when, in winter darkness, as he stepped on a slippery
substance, what it was—he knew. In the spring grass grew around
and through these inanimate shapes. Rats and dogs waxed fat as
badgers.
 From the day the 2d Regiment went into Croanelle till it was
relieved, six months later, no German soldier who set foot in the
shallow trench went back. Our regiment, repeatedly reinforced, was
kept at full strength.
Americans there endured pain and suffering, the depth of which
Washington’s Army at Valley Forge never reached. Those old
Continentals had nothing in discomfort on these modern heroes in
front of Croane. Washington’s Army, in
their own country, had access to the
necessities of life. They held
communion with their fellows. These
later-day Americans, under the hardest
discipline in the world, were cut off
from civilization. They were back to
the age of barter and exchange.
Money would not buy goods—there
was nothing to be bought—but if one
man had a little tobacco, and another
man a pair of socks, they would swap.
No furloughs were granted the first
ten months. Every letter was censored.
Packages of comforts, sent by friends,
were stolen or confiscated en route.
They were in a foreign country, whose
language many could not speak. They
had left good, comfortable homes for
these holes in the ground, called
trenches by courtesy, where one
waded to his post on guard, rifle in
hand, and carried a wisp of straw or a UNITED STATES
piece of plank on which to lie to keep CONGRESSIONAL
from sinking into slime and slush, MEDAL
which covered his clothes with mud (Reverse side reads)
and filled his bones with rheumatism. FOR
PATRIOTISM
It was near midnight, the relief was FORTITUDE
in the basement of a shot-up chateau. AND
The guard, on a scaffold, peering LOYALTY
through loopholes made in a stone
wall, was watching Rockwell sentinel
at the advance output and alongside. They saw him stop, heard a
familiar sound (the striking of a grenade cap), but it was in the rear.
Suddenly Rockwell yelled, “Aux Armes.” Metteger, the burly Alsatian
corporal, ran out, just in time to catch the explosion of a German
grenade, and was killed. Rockwell, standing between the grenade
and the corporal, was so thin the charge missed him and lodged in
the fat man. Simultaneously, the guard at the wall heard a rush, a
noise, a rattle of musketry from behind, and turned about face. The
relief rushed out of the basement. The Germans, caught between
two fires; cursing, disappeared into the darkness.
When the guard turned to repel the attackers, they jumped from
the scaffold to the ground. Capdeville’s hair was singed by a bullet, a
ball went through Soubiron’s cartridge belt. When Brooks, the
cockney Englishman, jumped, another Englishman, Buchanan, fell on
him, pushed his face into the ground and filled his mouth with mud.
Brooks struck out and hit Buchanan, who tried to get away to chase
the Boche. “You blankety, blank, blank.” Biff! biff! biff! “You will, will
you?” The two Englishmen were still fighting when the guard came
back. Buchanan had discovered that some one had made his gun
unworkable, tramping mud into the magazine. He stopped and had it
out with Brooks.

It was at La Fontenelle and Ban de Sapt, La Viola and Viola Nord,

opposite St. Marie aux Mines, in reconquered Alsace, among the
Vosges on the Franco-German frontier. Seven long, weary months
we spent among those perpendicular mountains, with sunburned
base and snowy, dripping tops. Dog trains carried provisions in
winter. Pack mules clamber in summer, wearing breeching to keep
from slipping down hill.
The continuous snows of winter, and the ceaseless flow of water
down the middle of the trench in summer, while it also dripped from
the roof of the dugout, and seeped up from the ground below,
dampened both clothes and spirits, as we carried wet blankets and
our misery about, up among the clouds of mist, in drizzles, sleet,
snow and the intense cold. A sieve was a water-tight compartment
compared to those shut-up dugouts.
The constant bombardment often changed so completely the
topography of the mountains, one could hardly be sure when
daylight came that he was the same man, or in the same place, as
he was the night before.
We were beyond civilization. Not a flower, a garden, a cow, a
chicken, a house with a door or window, or roof, not a civilian or a
woman was to be seen. All work or fight, no recreation, it was a
long, continued suffering. We had the Boche part of the time, bad
weather all the time.
The trenches were so close together we fought with grenades
instead of rifles. The wire in front, thrown out loose from the trench
behind, was all shot up. The trench itself from continued
bombardment was thirty or forty feet across the top, with just a
narrow path down the middle, where one walked below the ground
level. The hills were a wilderness of craters, blown out trenches with
unexploded shells about.
Crosses leaning over dead men’s graves, were littered with
ragged, empty sandbags, while pieces of splintered timber, tangled
wire, mingled with broken boulders and lacerated tree trunks of all
lengths and thickness. Holes grew now where trees had stood. Roots
and stumps, upturned, replaced splintered branches and scorched,
withered leaves. A few straggling, upright trunks, eighty to one
hundred feet in the air, were festooned with sections of blown-up
barbed wire.
The towns belonged to the dead, wholly deserted by civilians, with
even the old women gone. Roofless, doorless, windowless ruins,
twisted iron girders and fantastically broken walls, stood out against
the sky, grimly eloquent, though silent, monuments of kultur.
Face to face with death, what is in a man comes out. I shall never
forget one, who, right name unknown, came from Marseilles. We
used to call him “Coquin de Dieu.” He had some system whereby he
got extra wine—even at the front. That additional cup or two was
just enough to make him happy and start him singing. Handsome as
a woman, he looked the careless, reckless ne’er-do-well. During a
terrific bombardment, I was sent to relieve him, out between two
German outposts, one eight, the other fifteen yards away. Instead of
going to the safety of the sap in the rear, that Frenchman insisted on
staying with me. Germans broke into the French trench at the
adjoining post, and went to the right. Had they come left, we would
have been the first victims.
There was little Maurice, just twenty, who had been through the
whole campaign. When dodging shells, he could drop quicker than a
flapper and come up laughing every time.
Maribeau, eighteen, only a boy, always objected to throwing
grenades. “No, I won’t—I promised my mother and my father I
would not become a grenadier and I won’t.” One night during a
Boche grenade attack, he and everyone else had to work for self-
preservation. He liked it and became a splendid bomb thrower.
Was with Renaud, an old 170th boy, and Marti, on post, during a
Boche bombardment and attack. Marti was killed by a grenade. A
crapouillot fell into the trench behind. I was pretty busy throwing
grenades, but caught a glimpse of a stray sergeant pulling Renaud
under cover. Several days later, noticing a haversack hanging on the
side of the trench, I wondered why it was there so long, also whose
it might be. Inside was a piece of bread and a flat tin plate
perforated by shell and splinters. Scribbled on the plate was the
name, “Renaud.”
Big, strong, impulsive, was my marching companion, Peraud. He
loved his wife and hated war. When thinking about war his face had
so deadly an expression, no one dared disturb him. When his
thought was of his wife, he looked a glorified choir boy. Once in
Lorraine, during repose, he and his companion, Perora, a theological
student, invited me to a church to hear the curé lecture on Jeanne
d’Arc. While the student and the curé conversed, Peraud rang the
bell which brought the soldier congregation.
Marching behind him, Indian file, through the trenches one dark
night, I missed the barrel of his rifle against the sky line, and
stopped just in time to prevent falling on top of Peraud, who had
stumbled into a sap filled with the slush and slime that run from the
trench bottoms. It wasn’t necessary to watch the rifle after that. I
could follow by the smell.
It was in the trenches I first met him. Boche bombardment had
knocked out the wooden posts that braced the sides of the trench.
Dirt had fallen in and dammed the running water. We were detailed
to walk, knee deep, into the horrible slush, and bring those dirty,
dripping posts, on our shoulders, to dry land. Suddenly he stopped,
took a look and asked: “Comrade, what was your business in civil
life?” “I was engaged in commerce. And you?” “Me? I am an artist.”
Our sergeant spoke a little English. He was a good sort, who,
owning a garage in civil life, had met many Americans and thought
they were decent enough to invite acquaintance. One afternoon,
during a bombardment, he, Peraud, Perora, Rolfe and Tardy were in
a sap. Too careless to go below, they stood on the top step, in the
doorway, sheltered from behind and on both sides. There was just
the four-foot square opening in front. A shell dropped into that
opening, killed four, and left Tardy standing alone. He was a brave
soldier before, but no good after that.
Peraud and Perora had been bosom friends. They came from the
same neighborhood, were wounded and sent to the same hospital,
both changed into the 163d Regiment. Together they were killed by
the same shell.
Comrade Deporte was an old 170th man. Names, being indexed
alphabetically, always, at the end of a long march, Bowe and
Deporte were put on guard, with no chance to cool off after packing
the heavy sacks up the mountain side. Our cotton shirts, soaked
with perspiration, felt like a board as the body rapidly cooled during
the silent, motionless guard.
Deporte was a revelation in human nature. Unselfish, he did the
most arduous and often unnecessary work without a murmur. We
were always together on guard and frequently drew the bad places.
Once, during a five-hour bombardment, isolated, impossible to get
relief to us, he did not complain. Another time, hearing a suspicious
noise in front, I threw a grenade. We got such an avalanche in
return it almost took our breath away—and Deporte laughed! Home
on furlough, he overstayed his leave five days and drew sixty days
prison. He smiled—it was sixty days on paper!
One fine day we two were taken out in front during a
bombardment. Captain Anglelli, with two holes in his helmet where a
sniper’s bullet went in and out at Verdun, explained the situation to
Deporte:
 “You have the grenades?”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“You see this hill?”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“It is higher than that trench.”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“You can throw into there?”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“The Boche will come through there.”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“You can hit him, he cannot reach you.”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“The American will stay with you?”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“Bomb hell out of them!”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
“Hold them there and we will bag them.”
“Oui, mon capitaine.”
Smiling, the captain patted Deporte on the shoulder. Deporte,
looking squarely into his eyes, grinned back. They understood each
other, those two. It was not superior ordering inferior. It was man to
man.
I should like to tell all that happened that afternoon. It was the
wind-up of a week’s bombardment, and we had a ripping time
dodging about to avoid being maimed for life. We held a mountain
top on the frontier. The Germans had the peaks opposite, where
they had planted their heavy artillery. When the French drove back
the invading Germans, the lines stopped within bombing distance—
about thirty yards. We had the upper line, they the lower. We could
throw grenades on them, but it was hard for them to reach us. So
they planted their line with trench-mortars that throw aerial
torpedoes, crapouillots and bombs the size of a stovepipe, also
others which resemble a two-gallon demijohn. They came slow. We
could see them—the wide-nosed torpedoes coming direct, the
stovepipes hurtling end over end.
 These visible shells are only good for short range. We dodged
them, but they kept us constantly on the move. The captain’s trench
was flattened out—no need to watch that any more. The
bombardment increased. Long range artillery from the mountains
joined the short range mortars. The black smoke and noise from the
Jack Johnsons and the yellow smoke from bursting shrapnel did not
attract our attention from those three-finned torpedoes and hurtling
crapouillots.
We would dodge for one but a half dozen might drop before we
could look around. Deporte was buried by one explosion. I had to
pull him out of the dirt. A big rock came flying down the trench, then
a piece of timber four feet long. Two pieces of metal fell on my
helmet which I picked up and have yet. They were burning hot, not
iron or steel, but copper and nickel.
At a shout in front, we grabbed grenades and saw to the left a
crowd of men running toward our lines, French and German. Later
we learned how eighteen Frenchmen went over to the German
blockhouse across the way, gave the forty occupants a chance to
surrender, of which eleven took advantage. Revolvers and bombs
finished the others. Two Frenchmen, both my friends, were
wounded.
The Germans did not seem to like it. They got more angry and
threw all kinds of metal at our dodging heads. An orderly rushed
around the corner and yelled: “Fall back, orders from the capitaine.”
He scurried away. We found a sap. I was thirty feet down when I
looked up and saw Deporte standing at the opening unbuttoning his
vest. Steam and perspiration formed a circle around him, such as is
seen about an aeroplane flying high against the sun. About thirty
feet down into that sap the steps turned a right angle, then again
changed direction. We sat beyond the second turning, lighting a
candle as fast as the inrush of air, made by the bursting shells, blew
it out. A couple of hours later, when we looked for the hill we had
held, it was gone. Immense craters yawned where had been our
regular trenches. The rows of trenches were as waves of an angry
sea, while the ground between was pitted and scarred beyond
recognition.
 CHAPTER X
CHAMPAGNE ATTACK

The night before the attack of September 25, 1915, Bouligny and I
went over to Battalion C. He picked up a piece of cheese that Morlae
had. Munching away, he demanded, “Where did you get this?”
“In Suippe.”
“I thought we were forbidden to go out.”
“We are.”
“How did you get by?”
“I told the sentry I did not speak French, showed him my old
Fourth of July pass, and walked through.”
Bouligny said: “Well, we will eat this cheese so they’ll have no
evidence against you.”
Morlae replied: “We shall need somebody to help carry the load
we have stacked up.”
“What have we got?” inquired Casey.
“Two canteens of wine instead of one.”
“Good,” said Casey.
“And 250 rounds of cartridges instead of 120,” called Nelson.
“And a steel helmet, instead of a cloth cap,” from Dowd.
“And four days’ reserve of food instead of two,” added King.
“And a new knife for the nettoyers” (moppers-up), put in Scanlon.
“And a square white patch of cloth sewed on our backs, so our
own artillerymen can recognize and not blow us up,” finished John
Laurent.
“I’d rather be here, leaning against this tree,” said Chatcoff, “than
in little old New York, backed against a telephone pole, trying to
push it into the North River.”
 “Yes,” agreed Seeger, “this is the life. The only life worth living is
when you are face to face with death—midway between this world
and the next.”
For one week the Legion had marched each night fifteen
kilometers to the front, dug trenches and returned to camp in the
early morning. Again that night we went out, and daylight,
September 25, found us established in a badly demolished trench
from which we emerged at the time set for the attack, 9:15.
The four hours between daylight and the attack were passed
under a furious bombardment. Many were killed or wounded while
we waited to go over the top.
The French had, unknown to the Germans, brought up their 75
cannon and dug them down in another trench 25 yards behind us.
The din was terrific. Smoke screens and gas shells nearly blinded us.
Men were uneasy and dodged. The captain caught a fellow flopping.
“Here, you young whelp, don’t you know that noise comes from our
own guns behind?”
Pera, a Tunis Jew, tore open his first aid bandage and we filled our
ears with cotton to deaden the noise.
The attack was carried out by seven long lines of soldiers
advancing two yards apart, each line about 100 yards behind the
other.
The Colonials and Moroccans had the first line, the Legion the
second. Owing to the Germans’ concentrated fire on our trenches
and on the outlets, each man did not get out two yards from the
next. Frequently the other man was dead or wounded. But the
objective was the Ferme Navarin, and at 10:30 it was in our
possession.
A soldier’s life, while of some concern to himself, to an officer is
but a means to an end. It is offered, or given, to get results. The
best officer obtains the most results with the least loss. Some give
wrong orders and sacrifice their men. Others seem to grasp every
opening for advancement and gain the objective with very little loss.
In the first run to the outlet the slaughter was terrible. Stretcher
bearers carried a continuous stream of wounded with bloody
bandages on, silent, motionless, pale-faced, dirtily-clothed men,
whose muddy shoes extended over the edge of the stretchers.
Nearer the front line, the worse the carnage. Dead were lying so
thick soldiers walked on upturned faces grazed by hob-nailed shoes.
Side trenches were filled with wounded, waiting transportation.
Some, injured in the hand, held it up watching the blood flow;
others, hurt in the leg, were dragging that member along. Holding
onto their stomachs were those whose blood was running down over
their shoes. At one corner leaning against two corpses lay a young
soldier, smooth shaven, curly-hair, mustache trimmed, his face
settling into the soft, creamy whiteness of death, a smile on his lips.
My mind flashed over to Madam Tussaud’s wax figure exhibition in
London.
Two Moroccans stopped. One pulled off his vest and found a
blackish red bruise on his chest. His comrade said: “It is nothing,
come along.” The other fell over, dead. A Zouave, with back broken,
or something, unable to get up, eyes rolling into his head, twisted
his body in agony. The doctor, walking away, said: “No chance.
Leave him; blood poison.”
The Germans had a sure range on the outlet. Wounded men,
walking back in the trench, were jostled and knocked about by
strong, running men, forcing themselves to the front. Shells were
falling all around as we ran into “No-Man’s-Land.” Machine guns
were out on the slope, “rat-tat-tat-tat,” a continuous noise. Men lying
behind guns, rifle shooting, working, cursing, digging trenches,
throwing dirt, making holes.
At every corner stood calm, square-faced, observing officers
directing, demanding, compelling. What are such men in civil life.
Why do we never see them?
In the open I stopped and took a quick look around. The only man
I knew was Crotti, an Italian. He spoke in English: “Where is the
Legion?” The officer overheard. His face changed. He did not like
that alien tongue just then, but understood, and smiling, said: “The
Legion is there.”
They were crawling up a shallow trench, newly made in open
ground, at an angle of 45 degrees from us. We did not try to force
our way back into the trench against that crowd, so kept out on top
and joined our comrades, who laughed when they saw us running in
from where the Boche was supposed to be.
The man alongside puts on his bayonet as the order is passed
down the line to go over on command. The officers snap out: “Five
minutes, three minutes, one minute, En Avant!” The Colonials, the
Moroccans and the Legionnaires, all mixed up, arrive about the same
time. Up, and over the Boche line trench. Where is the wire? It has
been blown away by artillery. Instead of deep, open trenches, we
find them covered over! Swarming we go up on top the covered
trenches then turn and throw bombs in at the port-holes from which
the Germans are shooting. Boches run out at the entrances, climb
from the dugouts, hands in air, crying, “Kamarad.”
More grenades inside and more German prisoners. The first line
men keep going. German dead lie all about. German equipment is
piled around; we pass the wounded, meet the living enemy. A
running Zouave met a Boche, who goes down with the Zouave’s
bayonet in his chest. The Zouave puts his foot on the man, pulls out
the bayonet, and keeps on his headlong rush.
An old, grey-haired Poilu met a Boche in square combat, bayonet
to bayonet. The old man (his bayonet had broken) got inside the
other’s guard, forced him to the ground, and was choking him to
death when another Frenchman, helping his comrade, pushed the
old man aside in order to get a sure welt at the Boche. The old man,
quick as a cat, jumped up. He thought another German was after
him and recognized his comrade. The German sat up and stuck up
his hands. The Frenchmen looked foolish—it would be murder! Half
a dozen Germans just then came from a dugout. That old man took
his ride with the twisted, broken bayonet, picked up a couple of
German casques, and, lining the prisoners up, took them to the rear.
Prisoners all about. One big German officer surrendered with a
machine gun crew who carried their own gun. Unwounded prisoners
lugged their wounded comrades on their backs while others limped
along, leaning on comrades. Many had broken, bruised heads.
Prisoners bore French wounded on stretchers. The dead lay in all
directions, riddled, peppered by the 75’s, mangled with high
explosives, faces dried-blood, blackened.
Behind the first line, into the newly-made communication
trenches, noticed where dirt had been thrown to the bottom of the
trench, walking on dead Germans’ grazed faces bristling whiskers,
partially covered with loose dirt, so that their bodies were not
noticed by comrades going to the front. Continued bombardment,
more dead. Germans running, equipment strewn everywhere, black
bread, cigars, many casques, more dead, broken caissons, dead
horses, cannon deserted—their crews killed, Boche shells in lots of
three lying about in wicker baskets. Trenches full of dead, legs, arms
and heads sticking out.
We followed the Germans into a maze of gas and got my eyes and
lungs full. Then felt weak and comfortable. The Luxemburg corporal
came along and pulled me out. Dropping behind, we finally came
upon the Legion, waiting in a communication trench to flank the
Germans. A wonderful Legionnaire, with the face of a Greek god
(shot in the stomach), came hobbling along on a stick. He sat down
and renewed an acquaintance with the corporal which had been
started at Toulouse.
Over the top again. A backward glimpse showed the wounded
man hobbling behind us, back again to the front. I noticed the
Legionnaires running, chin forward, bayonet fixed, greatly bunched,
and thought the Germans could not miss hitting so many men. So,
being the last man in the company, I kept running along the outside.
The corporal was killed going over. He fell into a shell hole among a
lot of German wounded and dead. We were ordered to turn to the
right, down this trench. I, the last man, became first.
Blinded with gas, I blundered along, bayonet fixed, finger on
trigger, stumbling over dead and wounded Germans, bumping into
sharp corners of the trench, on into another gas maze, and across
the second line trench. Someone pulled my coat from behind and I
discovered that our men were going down that cross trench. So I fell
in about the middle of the company, pumped the gas from my
stomach, and by the time I was in shape again orders came that we
should hold this trench, which had gradually filled with our men.
 It had rained all day. Racing through the trenches, dirt fell into the
magazines of our rifles. It makes one furiously angry when the
magazine will not work. I grabbed a rifle laying alongside a man I
thought dead. He was very much awake. He quite insisted on using
his own gun. The next man was dead. He had a new rifle. I felt
much better.
It was impossible to stay in that crowded trench. I found a large
shell hole in the open, eight feet deep, with water in the bottom.
With shovel and pick, I dug out enough on the side of the crater to
find dry ground and tried to sleep. I was awakened by officers who
wished to make me go into the trenches. I did not understand
French. Those officers insisted I did. Of course, I did not. I knew
they wanted the nice, comfortable place I had constructed for
themselves. So, paid no attention, but covered up my head and tried
to sleep. I could not. Then remembered something—I had eaten no
food for twenty-four hours. So soaked hard tack in the water at the
bottom of the shell hole, dined, and then went to sleep in spite of
the rain, the bombardment, and the homeless officers.
Next day made another attack over the top. Got into a Boche
machine gun cross-fire; orders were to dig down. Noticed a large
shell crater about 20 yards to the left, where a half dozen Poilu were
laying in comfort below the earth level and fairly safe. Was crawling
toward them on my stomach, with nose in the ground, when I felt
the earth shake (impossible to hear in the never-ending cannon
roar), looked up, and about 80 or 100 feet in the air, when they had
rested on a teeter after going up and before coming down,—I saw a
number of blue overcoats, and I looked over to the shell crater and
saw it was larger, fresher and empty. However, I crawled over there
and stayed till darkness relieved me.
Those men were in comparative safety, while I was out in the
open and exposed, yet they were killed, and I lived to tell about it.
Soldiers naturally become fatalists, and will not be called till the shell
comes along with his number on. They see a shell fall, a cloud of dirt
and dust goes up—no damage done. Another shell falls,—a man
stood there,—he goes up,—he was in the wrong place, at the wrong
time,—and out of luck. Why worry? There are too many shells, and
the one that gets you is the one you will never see. If it does not get
you right then it is time enough to worry,—if it does you won’t need
to worry.
On September 28, the Legion attacked the Bois Sabot or wooden
shoe, a wooded eminence protected by fifty yards of barbed wire
entanglements, stretched, tree to tree, behind which bristled three
rows of machine guns. About four o’clock, the Legion lined out to
attack in a long row, a yard apart. The Germans watched our
formation, their guns trained on the first wire, and waited.
Finally, the Colonel said to a Sergeant, “Here, you take this
section. Go over and wake them up.” No one was anxious. The rifles
of the Boche could be seen above their trenches. But Musgrave said,
“Let’s go over and stir them up and see what kind of a show they
put up.” The section went, 35 or 40 men. Just two, both Americans,
Musgrave and Pavelka, came back.
That attack lasted all night. Daybreak was coming. All the officers
had been killed, except a little squeaky voiced Lieutenant. He was
afraid to give the order to retreat. But, daylight in sight, he finally
said, “Gather up the wounded and go back to the trench we left.”
The dead were left in rows by hundreds, as thick as autumn leaves,
each man on his stomach, face to the foe.
Artillery was then brought up. Two days later, we again attacked.
The wire and the whole mountain top had been blown away. The
Germans we met were either dead, wounded or dazed.
 CHAPTER XI
LIFE IN DEATH

“If a man die, shall he live?” Aye—and that more abundantly!

We know that “except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and
die, it abideth alone: but, if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit.”
Nature is constantly demonstrating Life as the manifestation of
Death. Nature’s laws are the laws of God, to whom are all people
subject. So, man, is passing his progress, into a higher, or lower,
form of spirit continuance—as he may have chosen and prepared.
They do not die,—who instil love of country, and the highest
degrees of patriotism, in those who live.
The materialistic profiteer, who shirks his duty, and fattens on the
soldier’s blood,—will die and pass away as a clod. But the soldier
whose inspiring deeds will warm the blood of future generations has
started a flame that will burn forever.
When the materialist has cashed his coupons, he will find the
money won’t keep his body from being eaten up by the maggots. It
may buy him a tombstone, but not the respect of loyal patriots who
are willing to give their all, in order to live up to the traditions of
those gone before.
Stocks and bonds have a market value—but Honor and Liberty are
beyond price.
Spiritual life and power are of far greater value than vast material
wealth.
It was the materialism of the Kaiser that started this war. He
cannot stop it. Why? Because he is confronted by the millions of
dead bodies on the battlefields of France whose spirits demand they
shall not die in vain. He is confronted by the spirit of Jeanne d’Arc,—
by the awakening spirit of 76.
These spirits are hovering around, stimulating, inspiring the living
to yet nobler deeds of heroism.
Indomitable, incorruptible, they flock to the living who fight to the
death, and every death brings forth another living soldier.
America, sunk in materialism, now hearkens to the call of her
forefathers.
The spirit of Washington, Hamilton, Greene, Lafayette,
Rochambeau, Lincoln, Sherman and Grant is calling us to the post of
duty.
The stern hand of fate has elevated us to a level from which we
can see the great ideals we have forgotten—Honor, Patriotism,
Equality.
Those are the level foundation on which democracy rests,—not on
wealth and inequality.
We must stamp out materialism and save the soul of America.
While we are making the world safe for democracy, let us make
democracy safe for the world.
While the soldier kills the German junker with the bullet the
civilian must kill off the political and profiteering junker with the
ballot.
Instead of Safety First, we must place America First.
 CHAPTER XII
THE 170TH FRENCH REGIMENT

When we Americans went into the 170th, Seeger, Morlae, Narutz

and others stayed with the 2nd Legion, which two weeks later was
merged with the 1st Legion. Narutz remarked, in his philosophic
manner, “The 170th is a regiment volante, always used in quick,
double action work. Their specialty is bayonet attack. I am too old to
go steeple chasing over barbed wire, in a ripped up country, with not
one hundred yards of solid ground, then twenty yards of nothing, a
70 pound sack on my back, a two dollar thirst in my stomach and
Boche machine guns in front. Believe me, the Legion is quite swift
enough. I know what this is and will stick to what I have and am
used to—what I have not had, I might not like.” Seeger, as usual,
silent, mystic, indomitable, appeared not to listen. His thoughts were
in the clouds. He had made up his mind to stay. That settled it—no
explanation necessary.
Of the Americans who changed, but three, Sergeant Capdeville,
Sergeant Jacobs and Lieutenant Mulhauser remain. The Colonel, of
that date, is now General Polalacelli.
The 170th is a notable regiments. Time and again have its
members been complimented by General Joffre. They are his
children, his pride. Never were they called upon when they failed to
make good. They have rushed into almost certain extermination and
came out alive. Anointed with success, they fear nothing. They have
charged into a cataclysm of destruction, which swallowed up whole
companies, and returned with a battalion of German prisoners.
Against all opposition, they prevail. Spite of death, they live,
always triumphant, never defeated. Theirs is an invincibility—a
contempt of peril, which only men who have continually risked and
won can have. In the confusion and complications of battle, they are
masters in obstruction and counter-attack. They have been torn,
shocked and churned about—but they have arrived. Faces burning in
zeal, exalted for the cause they serve, stimulated by the
companionship of kindred spirits, they heedlessly dash to victory, or,
the sunset—for the secret of victory rests in the hearts of the
combatants.
We turned directly about and went with this new regiment, back
to the front line. We relieved our own old regiment, the Foreign
Legion. Eight men, all Americans, were together in one squad.
Inside of a week, only three were left. That is, there were but three,
when I was sent away for repairs.
We were in a captured German headquarters with equipment,
ammunition, war debris, dead men and killed horses, strewed about.
Along the edge of a hill was a German graveyard. About two
hundred German soldiers, killed in a previous engagement, were
buried there. German batteries, on the opposite hill top, kept
bombarding their lost position, hoping to drive the French captors
out. They shot up those dead Germans—the atmosphere grew
pungent—the stench penetrated every corner. It settled heavy on
the lungs. It was impossible to get away from it. It was in late
October, 1915. The only time food or water could be sent up was
during the night. Coffee was chilled by morning. During the day, as
usual, we slept in the bottom of the trenches with shoes and
cartridge belts on. At night the regular program was,—patrol, guard,
digging trenches, placing barbed wire, bringing up ammunition and
supplies, with always that dreadful smell.
One morning, October 19, 1915, looking over at the Boche, I saw
a shrapnel burst overhead. A second after a bullet embedded itself
in my forehead. Some time later, feeling foolish for having been
caught as shortstop for a German hit, I heard Bob Scanlon say, “You
lucky fool. You lay rolled up warm in those Boche blankets all
morning, while I was up, trying to find a place to heat the coffee.
Now, you will go south, where it is warm, and I shall have to stay
here and freeze.”
 CHAPTER XIII
163RD AND 92ND REGIMENTS

Returning to the front I was sent as a reinforcement to the 163rd

who had just come from Verdun, where they had one battalion
captured by the enemy.
After a few days rest while they were getting reinforcements and
new clothing and equipment we were sent up to the front where
with the exception of ten days when we went to Laveline to be
refitted again (but two men left in my squad). My company, the 7th,
were in the first and second line trenches for seven continuous
months.
In the 163rd I saw a French regiment at its best. The Legion is
composed of men from all countries. The 170th are from many
French regiments and sections. The 163rd all came from southern
France. They saw alike, understood one another and worked
together. Kind and considerate, they were a band of ideal brothers.
They took pleasure in having an American feel at home. They made
sure that he got his share of clothing, rations and duty. He, noticing
those little courtesies, in his appreciation, became a better soldier.
What I liked about this regiment was the supreme contempt the
officers had for the Boches—and could not but admire how easy
they slipped things over on Fritz.
Owing to the even character of the men, it was not necessary to
have as strict discipline as in the Legion. Here the soldiers were
more content—more companionable—were all veterans—many
wounded bad enough so they could not have remained in a regiment
of attack,—yet steady and dependable, and almost invaluable, where
the enemy’s trenches were about thirty yards away,—and the two
forces were in constant touch with each other.
In the winter of 1916-17 weakened by rheumatism, after fighting
in three active first line regiments, I was finally sent to the 92nd
Territorials, a working regiment, then in a near-by sector.
These grand-dads, from forty to fifty-five years of age, the debris
of “Papa” Joffre’s old army, were all physically unfit—yet, not old
enough to die. The object in holding them together was to have a
reserve—in order to use what few ounces of strength they still had.
Officers and doctors were considerate and very kind. But, even
that could not keep a number of the men from caving in as Nature’s
limit was reached.
One night at Bussang, after unloading coal in a snowstorm, my
wet cotton gloves were as stiff with frost as were my knees with
rheumatism. Quite fed up, I went to the doctor, determined to
thrash the matter out with him. “Yes,” he responded, “I know you
are not in condition, but, we are hard pressed now. We must use
every ounce of energy we have.” I quit knocking, stuck it out a few
days longer, then went to pieces.
Such is soldier life. He starts out strong and full of pep, fit to serve
in the Foreign Legion, the best in France. Then in the 170th, graded
the fourth. Then to the 163rd, a good trench regiment. Then to the
92nd Territorials, a working regiment. Then to hospital—transferred
back to the Legion—to be invalided home.
 CHAPTER XIV
HOSPITAL LIFE

In 1915 there were 6,400 hospitals in France and 18,000 doctors.

During large offensives the wounded arrived in Paris at the rate of
thirty trainloads per day. In Lyons at one time there were 15,000
wounded men. At Verdun 28,000 wounded men were treated in one
hospital during a 25 day period. In the spring of 1918, 40 per cent of
the entire French Army had been killed, captured or hopelessly
mutilated. Of the 60 per cent remaining at that time there were
1,500,000 wounded and crippled men in the hospitals of France.
With the exception, as far as known, of the American Hospital at
Nice and the Scottish Woman’s Hospital at Royemont, both of which
maintain themselves, the pay for care and attendance of each
patient which comes from the French Government is limited to one
franc, 25 centimes per day (22½ cents). The balance is made up by
the Red Cross, individuals and communities, according to the
largeness, or smallness, of the views and pocketbooks of those who
assist.
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