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First Steps Developing Biztalk Applications 1st Edition Robert Loftin pdf download

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications by Robert Loftin is a practical guide aimed at beginners and intermediate users looking to learn BizTalk through a phased approach. The book focuses on hands-on projects that teach the creation, deployment, and testing of BizTalk applications, while also covering essential components like schemas and message mapping. It serves as a quick start resource rather than a comprehensive reference text, making it beneficial for those struggling with the learning curve of BizTalk.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2 views57 pages

First Steps Developing Biztalk Applications 1st Edition Robert Loftin pdf download

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications by Robert Loftin is a practical guide aimed at beginners and intermediate users looking to learn BizTalk through a phased approach. The book focuses on hands-on projects that teach the creation, deployment, and testing of BizTalk applications, while also covering essential components like schemas and message mapping. It serves as a quick start resource rather than a comprehensive reference text, making it beneficial for those struggling with the learning curve of BizTalk.

Uploaded by

yvdnuqm4829
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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First Steps Developing Biztalk Applications 1st Edition
Robert Loftin Digital Instant Download
Author(s): Robert Loftin
ISBN(s): 9781590598498, 1590598490
Edition: 1
File Details: PDF, 3.23 MB
Year: 2007
Language: english
Books for professionals by professionals ®

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications


Apress’s firstPress series is your source for understanding cutting-edge technology. Short, highly
focused, and written by experts, Apress’s firstPress books save you time and effort. They contain
the information you could get based on intensive research yourself or if you were to attend a
conference every other week—if only you had the time. They cover the concepts and techniques
that will keep you ahead of the technology curve. Apress’s firstPress books are real books, in your
choice of electronic or print-on-demand format, with no rough edges even when the technology
itself is still rough. You can’t afford to be without them.

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications First Steps Developing


BizTalk Applications
Dear Reader,

I did not originally set out to write a book about BizTalk. As an independent consultant,
I was not sure when I would be able to use BizTalk on an assignment, so I started to
keep notes on BizTalk that I could use later to refresh my memory. My study aides,
though useful, lacked the perspective of someone trying to learn BizTalk on his or her
own. Furthermore, topical Internet searches suggested that many people were struggling
with some of the same learning curve issues that I struggled with. It was then that I
realized my notes might benefit others trying to learn about BizTalk.
This book is likely to be different from other technical books you have read. Most
books introduce a topic and then explore that topic in exhaustive detail. Generally,
unrelated examples are presented to illustrate a point—such is the nature of reference
material. Many times when using a reference text to learn about a particular technology, I
have felt as though I was mired in detail, and missing the “big picture.”
This book is not a reference text. You can think of it as a way of jump-starting the
learning process—in other words, as a BizTalk “quick start.” In this book, you will learn
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii
about BizTalk in a phased approach. Each phase presents additional detail about
BizTalk and is dependent on the previous phase(s). In each phase, you will learn just PHASE 1 Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application . . . . . . . 1
what you need to know to complete that phase. In addition, you will learn by doing,
as each phase provides detailed instructions for creating, deploying, and testing a PHASE 2 Working with Schemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
BizTalk project. Through the book’s projects, you will be exposed to orchestrations,
pipelines, maps, schemas, messages, ports, shapes, the BizTalk Server Administration PHASE 3 Message Mapping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
console, and the Health and Activity Tracking (HAT) tool.
This book does not eliminate the need for a BizTalk reference text, but it should
make the material in such a text more meaningful.

Robert J. Loftin

Loftin Robert J. Loftin


www.apress.com

US $19.99

User level:
Beginner–Intermediate
About firstPress

Apress's firstPress series is your source for understanding cutting-edge technology. Short, highly
focused, and written by experts, Apress's firstPress books save you time and effort. They contain the
information you could get based on intensive research yourself or if you were to attend a conference
every other week––if only you had the time. They cover the concepts and techniques that will keep you
ahead of the technology curve. Apress's firstPress books are real books, in your choice of electronic or
print-on-demand format, with no rough edges even when the technology itself is still rough. You can't
afford to be without them.

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications


Dear Reader,

I did not originally set out to write a book about BizTalk. As an independent consultant, I was not sure
when I would be able to use BizTalk on an assignment, so I started to keep notes on BizTalk that I could
use later to refresh my memory. My study aides, though useful, lacked the perspective of someone
trying to learn BizTalk on his or her own. Furthermore, topical Internet searches suggested that many
people were struggling with some of the same learning curve issues that I struggled with. It was then
that I realized my notes might benefit others trying to learn about BizTalk.
This book is likely to be different from other technical books you have read. Most books introduce
a topic and then explore that topic in exhaustive detail. Generally, unrelated examples are presented to
illustrate a point––such is the nature of reference material. Many times when using a reference text to
learn about a particular technology, I have felt as though I was mired in detail, and missing the “big
picture.”
This book is not a reference text. You can think of it as a way of jump-starting the learning
process––in other words, as a BizTalk “quick start.” In this book, you will learn about BizTalk in a
phased approach. Each phase presents additional detail about BizTalk and is dependent on the
previous phase(s). In each phase, you will learn just what you need to know to complete that phase. In
addition, you will learn by doing, as each phase provides detailed instructions for creating, deploying,
and testing a BizTalk project. Through the book's projects, you will be exposed to orchestrations,
pipelines, maps, schemas, messages, ports, shapes, the BizTalk Server Administration console, and the
Health and Activity Tracking (HAT) tool.
This book does not eliminate the need for a BizTalk reference text, but it should make the material
in such a text more meaningful.

Robert J. Loftin
First Steps: Developing
BizTalk Applications

ROBERT J. LOFTIN
LoftinFM.qxd 3/30/07 1:01 PM Page ii

First Steps: Developing BizTalk Applications


Copyright © 2007 by Robert Loftin
All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic
or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without the
prior written permission of the copyright owner and the publisher.
ISBN-13: 978-1-4302-0458-9
ISBN-10: 1-4302-0458-3
Trademarked names may appear in this book. Rather than use a trademark symbol with every occurrence of a trade-
marked name, we use the names only in an editorial fashion and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no
intention of infringement of the trademark.
Lead Editor: Jonathan Hassell

Technical Reviewer: Stephen Kaufman

Editorial Board: Steve Anglin, Ewan Buckingham, Gary Cornell, Jason Gilmore, Jonathan Gennick, Jonathan Hassell,
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The source code for this book is available to readers at http://www.apress.com in the Source Code/
Download section.
Contents

About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v


Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii

■PHASE 1 Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application . . . . . . . . . . . 1


Visual Studio 2005 Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Create the BizTalk Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Add an Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Add a Message to the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Add a Port Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Add Ports to the Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Add Receive and Send Shapes to the Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Assign a Strong Name to the Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Assign the Project a Name. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Build and Deploy the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
BizTalk Server Administration Console Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Launch the BizTalk Server Administration Console . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Add and Configure a Receive Port and a Receive Location . . . . . . 14
Add and Configure a Send Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Configure the Application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Launch and Test the Application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Summary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
■PHASE 2 Working with Schemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Visual Studio 2005 Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Add a Schema to the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Generate an Instance Document . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Validate the Instance Document. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Force a Validation Failure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Promote a Node. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Assign the Schema to a Message . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Use the Message in the Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Add and Configure a Decide Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Add and Configure a Terminate Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Deploy the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
BizTalk Server Administration Console Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
iii
iv ■CONTENTS

Launch the BizTalk Server Administration Console . . . . . . . . . . . . 49


Review the Receive Location and Send Port Configurations . . . . . 49
Change the Receive Location Pipeline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Test Your Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Use the Health and Activity Tracking Tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Summary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
■PHASE 3 Message Mapping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Visual Studio 2005 Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Add a Flat-File Schema to the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Map Fields from the Input Message to the New Message. . . . . . . 62
Validate the Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Test the Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Modify the Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Add a Transform Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Add a New Port Type and a New Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Add a Send Shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Add a Send Pipeline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Deploy the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
BizTalk Server Administration Console Tasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Launch the BizTalk Server Administration Console . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Review the Receive Location and Send Port Configurations . . . . . 75
Add and Configure a Send Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Configure the Application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Launch and Test the Application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Sending E-mail from a BizTalk Orchestration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Reconfigure the Send Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Configure the SMTP Adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Summary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
About the Author

■ROBERT LOFTIN has extensive experience as a development manager, project leader, application archi-
tect, and senior Visual Basic .NET developer, who has been involved in managing, designing and
developing projects on multiple hardware and operating system platforms and for all software devel-
opment life cycle phases. He has experience in .NET, web, client/server, imaging, and OOD
technologies.

v
vi ■CONTENTS
Introduction

W hen I first decided to learn about BizTalk, I went to Microsoft’s site and downloaded the 120-day
evaluation copy along with all of the available documentation and tutorials. I worked my way through
one of the tutorials, and I then purchased a book about BizTalk. Even though the book and the
Microsoft documentation were helpful, I still did not feel comfortable with my level of understanding
of the product. The problem I had with those materials is that they were reference works written by
experts who I think forgot what it was like to learn a new, complicated subject. Also, it seemed as if the
tutorials were designed to show off the capabilities of the product rather than serve as a learning aid.
As part of my education, I decided to create and test my own simple application and keep notes as
I went, because I wasn’t sure when I would get to use BizTalk for a client. The notes were to be a
refresher when called upon by a client to use BizTalk. Those notes morphed into this book.

Note ➡ The information in this book is intended to help you to quickly become familiar with the tools necessary to cre-
ate, deploy, configure, and launch a BizTalk application. It is not intended to be a comprehensive BizTalk reference.
Extensive reference information about developing BizTalk applications can be found at Microsoft’s site:
http://www.microsoft.com/biztalk.

Methodology
The underlying principle of this book is that you learn by doing. Therefore, you will start by creating,
deploying, configuring, launching, and testing a simple application. You will then progressively
enhance, redeploy, reconfigure, launch, and test the same application in a phased approach (the fol-
lowing illustration shows the finished application). This approach should be very familiar to most
developers, because we frequently use a phased approach to deliver software products.

vii
viii ■INTRODUCTION

My aim is that by the time you finish this book I will have addressed most of the important features of
the tools to such an extent that you will be comfortable enough to venture off on your own.

Note ➡ Because the material in this book is presented using a phased approach, it is critical that you perform the
tasks in the order in which they are presented. Do not jump ahead. If the results you get are different from the results
specified herein, retrace your steps and repeat the tasks until your results match the results specified within this book.
Screenshots are used extensively to keep you oriented and show you the results that you should be getting.

Intended Audience
This book is intended for developers who have little or no experience with BizTalk. However, I assume
that readers of this book will have at least read some of the promotional materials and white papers
about the product on Microsoft’s web site.
■INTRODUCTION ix

Required Software and Setup


Completion of the tasks within this book require the following tools:

• BizTalk Server 2006 with a compatible version of SQL Server

• Visual Studio 2005 with BizTalk templates

• .NET Framework SDK

This book assumes the following about your setup:

• BizTalk has been properly installed and connected to the SQL Server database.

• Visual Studio 2005 has been installed on the same computer as BizTalk Server 2006, which
makes the BizTalk templates and other BizTalk-related functionality available within Visual Stu-
dio 2005.

• The utility for creating strong name key files (sn.exe) that is included with the .NET Framework
SDK is available.

• You have administrator rights on the machine that hosts the BizTalk server.

ix
x ■INTRODUCTION
PHASE 1

Creating, Deploying, and


Testing a BizTalk Application
In this phase of the project, you will create, deploy, and test a BizTalk application that will
copy an XML message from one port to another. To do so, you will use Visual Studio 2005,
the .NET Framework SDK, and the BizTalk Server 2006 Administration console,
respectively.
You will use Visual Studio 2005 to design and build your BizTalk application, and the
BizTalk Server Administration console to install, configure, launch, and troubleshoot the
application. The tasks that must be performed in each tool appear in their own sections to
assist you in knowing when to transfer from one tool to the other.

Note ➡ This phase takes approximately one hour to complete.

Visual Studio 2005 Tasks


The tasks that you will perform using Visual Studio 2005 are covered in detail in the
sections that follow.

Create the BizTalk Project


There are several files that, when used together, compose a BizTalk application. You will
use Visual Studio 2005 to create those files. Jointly, those files are thought of as a BizTalk
project.

1. Launch Visual Studio 2005.


2. Select File ➤ New ➤ Project menu. Your screen should resemble Figure 1-1.
2 firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application

Figure 1-1. Creating a new BizTalk project with the BizTalk Server Project template

3. Enter the name of the project that you are going to create (BTDemo, for this
example) and click the OK button.

Add an Orchestration
Orchestration is BizTalk-speak for a program. It is the way that you use logic to implement
business functionality. When creating an orchestration, you don’t use a programming
language such as Visual Basic .NET or C#. Instead, you program using objects, as shown in
the following steps.
firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application 3

1. Add an orchestration to the BTDemo project by right-clicking the BTDemo project in


Solution Explorer and selecting Add ➤ New Item. Your screen should resemble
Figure 1-2.

Figure 1-2. Creating a new orchestration

2. Change the name of the orchestration to BTDemoOrchestration.odx and click the


Add button. Your screen should now look like Figure 1-3.
4 firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application

Figure 1-3. Orchestration Design Surface

Add a Message to the Project


BizTalk communicates with other systems via messages. Messages may be in an XML or
flat-file format. To create a message, follow these steps:

1. Click the Orchestration View tab in Solution Explorer and add a new message by
right-clicking the Messages folder and selecting the New Message menu option. Your
screen will resemble Figure 1-4.
firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application 5

Figure 1-4. Adding a message

2. In the Properties window, configure the Message_1 message as follows:

Property Value
Identifier BTDemoMessage
Message Type .Net Classes ➤ System.Xml.XMLDocument

Add a Port Type


Messages arrive into BizTalk or are sent from BizTalk via ports. Ports must be configured
to handle different types of messages (e.g., XML, flat file, etc.). A port type is used to
identify the type of message(s) a port will be handling. To add a port type, follow these
steps:
6 firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application

1. Expand the Types node in Orchestration View to display the Port Types folder.
Right-click the Port Types folder and select the New One-way Port Type menu
option. Your screen should resemble Figure 1-5.

Figure 1-5. Adding a port type

2. Expand the PortType_1 node and configure it as follows:

Property Value
Port Type ➤ Identifier BTDemoPortType
Operation ➤ Identifier BTDemoOperation
Operation Message ➤ Message Type .Net Classes ➤ System.Xml.XMLDocument
firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application 7

Note ➡ The Message Type property is used to specify the structure or format of the message that will be
processed by the port. In the preceding example, you are informing BizTalk that any message arriving at a
port using this port type will be a System.XML.XMLDocument. Messages arriving at the port that aren’t a
System.XML.XMLDocument will not be processed correctly.

Add Ports to the Orchestration


To add ports to the orchestration, follow these steps:

1. Display the Toolbox by selecting View ➤ Toolbox.


2. Drag a Port shape from the Toolbox onto the Port Surface, which launches the Port
Configuration Wizard. When prompted by the wizard, enter the following
information:

Property Value
Name BTDemoReceivePort
Use an Existing Port Type Selected (Note: Select BTDemo.BTDemoPortType.)
Port Direction I will always be receiving messages on this port.
Port Binding Specify later

Note ➡ Although it is possible to specify port bindings at design time, specifying them when you configure
the application on the BizTalk Server provides the option of changing the port’s settings if/when the needs of
the application change, without you having to recompile and redeploy them.

3. Drag another Port shape from the Toolbox onto the Port Surface to launch the Port
Configuration Wizard. When prompted by the wizard, enter the following
information:

d5014bfb03de489b6d7267ee0c61b2db
8 firstPress: Creating, Deploying, and Testing a BizTalk Application

Property Value
Name BTDemoSendPort
Use an Existing Port Type Selected (Note: Select BTDemo.BTDemoPortType.)
Port Direction I will always be sending messages on this port.
Port Binding Specify later

4. Once you have added the ports to the Orchestration Design Surface, your screen
should resemble Figure 1-6.

Figure 1-6. Adding ports to an orchestration


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that newly-arrived chap; didn’t know his name even, but he was a
Cornishman, and that was enough to draw him.”
Sir Redvers Buller told me a story. He was on his way with a
regiment of soldiers to Canada. Off the entrance to the S. Lawrence
the vessel was enveloped in fogs and delayed, so that provisions ran
short. Now there was a station on an islet there for shipwrecked
mariners, where were supplies. So Sir Redvers went ashore in a boat
to visit the store and ask for assistance.
When he applied, he found a woman only in charge.
“No,” said she; “the supplies are for those who be shipwrecked,
not for such as you.”
“But this is a Government depôt, and we are servants of the
Crown.”
“Can’t help it; you’m not shipwrecked.”
Now there was a very recognisable intonation in the woman’s
voice. Sir Redvers at once assumed the Cornish accent, and said,
“What! not for dear old One and All, and I a Buller?”
“What! from Cornwall, and a Buller! Take everything there is in
the place; you’m heartily welcome.”
Gunwalloe is a chapelry in the parish of Cury. It has a singular
tower standing by itself against the sandhill at the back. There is a
holy well on the beach, but the tide has filled it with stones. It was
formerly cleared out on S. Gunwalloe’s Day, but this, unfortunately,
is one of the good old customs that have fallen into neglect.
About Cury a word must be said. It is dedicated to S. Corentine, a
saint of Quimper, in Brittany, and this is probably a place where
Athelstan placed one of the batches of Bretons who fled to him for
protection in 920, but whom he could not have planted in Cornwall
till 936. That Cornwall should have received refugees from Brittany
was but just, for Brittany had been colonised from Devon and
Cornwall to a very considerable extent. As the facts are little known,
I will narrate them here.
The advance of the Saxons and the rolling back of the Britons had
heaped up crowds of refugees in Wales and in Devon and Cornwall,
more in fact than the country could maintain. Accordingly an outlet
had to be sought.
The Armorican peninsula was thinly populated.
In consequence of the exactions of the decaying empire, and the
ravages of northern pirates, the Armorican seaboard was all but
uninhabited, and the centre of the peninsula was occupied by a vast
untrodden forest, or by barren stone-strewn moors. Armorica,
therefore, was a promising field for colonisation.
Procopius says that in the sixth century swarms of immigrants
arrived from Britain, men bringing with them their wives and
children. These migrations assumed large dimensions in 450, 512-
14, and between 561 and 566.
So early as 461 we hear of a “Bishop of the Britons” attending the
Council of Tours. In 469 the British settlers were in sufficient force at
the mouth of the Loire to become valuable auxiliaries against the
invading Visigoths.
The author of the Life of S. Winwalloe says:—​
“The sons of the Britons, leaving the British sea, landed on
these shores at the period when the barbarian Saxon
conquered the isle. These children of a beloved race
established themselves in this country, glad to find repose
after so many griefs. In the meantime the unfortunate Britons
who had not quitted this country were decimated by plague.
Their corpses lay without sepulchre. The major portion of the
isle was depopulated. Then a small number of men, who had
escaped the sword of the invaders, abandoned their native
land to seek refuge, some among the Scots (Irish), the rest in
Belgic Gaul.”
The plague to which reference is made is the Yellow Death, that
carried off Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, 547.
The invasion was not a military occupation; the settlers
encountered no resistance. Every account we have represents them
as landing in a country that was denuded of its population, except in
the district of Vannes and on the Loire.
In or about 514 Riwhal, son of a Damnonian king, arrived with a
large fleet on the north-east coast, and founded the colony and
principality of Domnonia on the mainland.
One swarm came from Gwent, that is to say, Monmouthshire and
Glamorganshire, where the Britons were hard pressed by the
Saxons; and this Gwentian colony planted itself in the north-west of
the Armorican peninsula, and called it Leon, or Lyonesse, after the
Caerleon that had been abandoned.
This Leon was afterwards annexed to Domnonia in Brittany, so as
to form a single kingdom.
Again another swarm took possession of the western seaboard,
and called that Cornu, either after their Cornwall at home, or
because Finisterre is, like that, a horn thrust forward into the
Atlantic.
By degrees Vannes, itself a Gallo-Roman city, was enveloped by
the new-comers, so that in 590 the Bishop Regalis complained that
he was as it were imprisoned by them within the walls of his city.
The Gallo-Roman prelate disliked these British invaders and their
independent ways. S. Melanius of Rennes and S. Felix of Nantes
shared his dislike. The prelates exercised much of the magisterial
authority of the imperial governors, and to this the newly-arrived
Britons refused to submit. The Britons brought with them their own
laws, customs, and organisation, both civil and ecclesiastical, as well
as their own language.
They were at first few in numbers, and did not desire to
emancipate themselves wholly from Britain. Consequently, although
establishing themselves in clans, they held themselves to be under
the sovereignty of their native princes at home.
This appears from the coincidence of the names of the kings in
Armorica and in insular Domnonia.[25]
About the downs may be seen numerous cairns and barrows.
Some of these have been explored, and some fine urns of the
Bronze Age, that were found near Gunwalloe, are now in the Truro
Museum.
Alas! there is one thing for which Lizard is notorious, and that is
wrecks. The last great tragedy of that nature was the loss of the
Mohegan, in 1898. A mysterious loss, for the two lights of Lizard
shone clear to the left, and she was steered straight on the deadly
Manacles, where she went to pieces. The churchyards of S. Keverne,
Landewednack, and Mullion contain the graves of many and many a
drowned man and woman thrown up by the sea. But, be it
remembered, formerly those thus cast up, unless known, were not
buried in churchyards, but on the cliffs, as there was no guarantee
that the bodies were those of Christians. For this reason it is by no
means uncommon on these cliffs to come on bones protruding from
the ground on the edge of the sea—​the remains of drowned
mariners, without name, and of an unknown date. Indeed, it was
not till 1808 that an Act was passed requiring the bodies of those
cast up by the sea to be buried in the parish churchyard. “What is
the usual proceeding?” said a curate to some natives, as a drowned
man from a wreck was washed ashore. “In such a case as this what
should be done?”
“Sarch ’is pockets,” was the prompt reply.
Note.—​Books on the Lizard:—​
Johns (C. P.), A Week at the Lizard. S.P.C.K., 1848. Though an old
book, quite unsurpassed.
Harvey (T. G.), Mullyon. Truro, 1875.
Cummins (A. H.), Cury and Gunwalloe. Truro, 1875. Good, but all
these books are wild in their derivation of place-names, and not too
much to be trusted in their history, as, for instance, when they
mistake the Breton Cornouaille for Cornwall, and relate as occurring
in the latter what actually belongs to the Breton Cornouaille.
CHAPTER XVII.

SMUGGLING
A cache—​Smugglers’ paths—​Donkeys—​Hiding-places—​Connivance
with smugglers—​A baronet’s carriage—​Wrecking—​“Fatal
curiosity”—​A ballad—​Excuses made for smuggling—​Story by
Hawker—​Desperate affrays—​Sub-division of labour—​“Creeping”—​
Fogous—​One at Porth-cothan.
The other day I saw an old farmhouse in process of demolition in the
parish of Altarnon, on the edge of the Bodmin moors. The great hall
chimney was of unusual bulk, bulky as such chimneys usually are;
and when it was thrown down it revealed the explanation of this
unwonted size. Behind the back of the hearth was a chamber
fashioned in the thickness of the wall, to which access might have
been had at some time through a low walled-up doorway that was
concealed behind the kitchen dresser and plastered over. This door
was so low that it could be passed through only on all-fours.
Now the concealed chamber had also another way by which it
could be entered, and this was through a hole in the floor of a
bedroom above. A plank of the floor could be lifted, when an
opening was disclosed by which anyone might pass under the wall
through a sort of door, and down steps into this apartment, which
was entirely without light. Of what use was this singular concealed
chamber? There could be little question. It was a place in which
formerly kegs of smuggled spirits and tobacco were hidden. The
place lies some fourteen or fifteen miles from Boscastle, a dangerous
little harbour on the North Cornish coast, and about a mile off the
main road from London, by Exeter and Launceston, to Falmouth.
The coach travellers in old days consumed a good deal of spirits, and
here in a tangle of lanes lay a little emporium always kept well
supplied with a stock of spirits which had not paid duty, and whence
the taverners along the road could derive the contraband liquor, with
which they supplied the travellers. Between this emporium and the
sea the roads—​parish roads—​lie over wild moors or creep between
high hedges of earth, on which the traveller can step along when the
lane below is converted into the bed of a stream, also on which the
wary smuggler could stride whilst his laden mules and asses
stumbled forward in the concealment of the deep-set lane.

MOUNT’S BAY

A very curious feature of the coasts of the West of England,


where rocky or wild, is the trenched and banked-up paths from the
coves along the coast. These are noticeable in Devon and Cornwall
and along the Bristol Channel. That terrible sea-front consists of
precipitous walls of rock, with only here and there a dip, where a
brawling stream has sawn its course down to the sea; and here
there is, perhaps, a sandy shore of diminutive proportions, and the
rocks around are pierced in all directions with caverns. The
smugglers formerly ran their goods into these coves when the
weather permitted, or the preventive men were not on the look-out.
They stowed away their goods in the caves, and gave notice to the
farmers and gentry of the neighbourhood, all of whom were
provided with numerous donkeys, which were forthwith sent down
to the caches, and the kegs and bales were removed under cover of
night or of storm.
As an excuse for keeping droves of donkeys, it was pretended
that the sea-sand and the kelp served as admirable dressing for the
land, and no doubt so they did. The trains of asses sometimes came
up laden with sacks of sand, but not infrequently with kegs of
brandy.
Now a wary preventive man might watch too narrowly the
proceedings of these trains of asses. Accordingly squires, yeomen,
farmers, alike set to work to cut deep ways in the face of the downs,
along the slopes of the hills, and bank them up, so that whole
caravans of laden beasts might travel up and down absolutely
unseen from the sea, and greatly screened from the land side.
Undoubtedly the sunken ways and high banks are some
protection against the weather. So they were represented to be, and
no doubt greatly were the good folks commended for their
consideration for the beasts and their drivers in thus, at great cost,
shutting them off from the violence of the gale. Nevertheless, it can
hardly be doubted that concealment from the eye of the coastguard
was sought by this means quite as much as, if not more than, the
sheltering the beasts of burden from the weather.
A few years ago an old church house was demolished. When it
was pulled down it was found that the floor of large slate slabs in
the lower room was undermined with hollows like graves, only of
much larger dimensions, and these had served for the concealment
of smuggled spirits. The clerk had, in fact, dug them out, and did a
little trade on Sundays with selling contraband liquor from these
stores.
The story is told of a certain baronet, who had a handsome house
and park near the coast. By the way, he died at an advanced age
only a couple of years ago. The preventive men had long suspected
that Sir Thomas had done more than wink at the proceedings of the
receivers of smuggled goods. His park dipped in graceful undulations
to the sea, and to a lovely creek, in which was his boathouse. But
they never had been able to establish the fact that he favoured the
smugglers, and allowed them to use his grounds and outbuildings.
However, at last, one night, a party of men with kegs on their
shoulders was seen stealing through the park towards the mansion.
They were observed also leaving without the kegs. Accordingly, next
morning the officer in command called, together with several
underlings. He apologised to the baronet for any inconvenience his
visit might occasion—​he was quite sure that Sir Thomas was
ignorant of the use made of his park, his landing-place, even of his
house—​but there was evidence that “run” goods had been brought
to the mansion the preceding night, and it was but the duty of the
officer to point this out to Sir Thomas, and ask him to permit a
search—​which would be conducted with all the delicacy possible.
The baronet, an exceedingly urbane man, promptly expressed his
readiness to allow house, cellar, attic—​every part of his house and
every outbuilding—​unreservedly to be searched. He produced his
keys. The cellar was, of course, the place where wine and spirits
were most likely to be found—​let that be explored first. He had a
cellar-book, which he produced, and he would be glad if the officer
would compare what he found below with his entries in the book.
The search was entered into with some zest, for the Government
officers had long looked on Sir Thomas with mistrust, and yet were
somewhat disarmed by the frankness with which he met them. But
they ransacked the mansion from garret to cellar, and every part of
the outbuildings, and found nothing. They had omitted to look into
the family coach, which was full of rum kegs, so full that to prevent
the springs being broken, or showing that the carriage was laden,
the axle-trees had been “trigged up” below with blocks of wood.
Wrecking was another form of sea-poaching. Terrible stories of
ships lured to destruction by the exhibition of false lights are told,
but all belong to the past. I remember an old fellow—​the last of the
Cornish wreckers—​who ended his days as keeper of a toll-gate. But
he never would allow that he had wilfully drawn a vessel upon the
breakers. When a ship was cast up by the gale it was another
matter. The dwellers on the coast could not believe that they had
not a perfect right to whatever was washed ashore. Nowadays the
coastguards keep so sharp a look-out after a storm that very little
can be picked up. The usual course at present is for those who are
early on the beach, and have not time to secure—​or fear the risk of
securing—​something they covet, to heave the article up the cliff and
lodge it there where not easily accessible. If it be observed—​when
the auction takes place—​it is knocked down for a trifle, and the man
who put it where it is discerned obtains it by a lawful claim. If it be
not observed, then he fetches it at his convenience. But it is now
considered too risky after a wreck to carry off anything of size found,
and as the number of bidders at a sale of wreckage is not large, and
they do not compete with each other keenly, things of value are got
for very slender payments.
The terrible story of the murder of a son by his father and
mother, to secure his gold, they not knowing him, and believing him
to be a cast-up from a wreck—​the story on which the popular drama
of Fatal Curiosity, by Lillo, was founded—​actually took place at
Boheland, near Penryn.
To return to the smugglers.
When a train of asses or mules conveyed contraband goods along
a road, it was often customary to put stockings over the hoofs to
deaden the sound of their steps.
One night, many years ago, a friend of the writer—​a parson on
the north coast of Cornwall—​was walking along a lane in his parish
at night. It was near midnight. He had been to see, or had been
sitting up with, a dying person.
As he came to a branch in the lane he saw a man there, and he
called out “Good-night.” He then stood still a moment, to consider
which lane he should take. Both led to his rectory, but one was
somewhat shorter than the other. The shorter was, however, stony
and very wet. He chose the longer way, and turned to the right.
Thirty years after he was speaking with a parishioner who was ill,
when the man said to him suddenly, “Do you remember such and
such a night, when you came to the Y? You had been with Nankevill,
who was dying.”
“Yes, I do recall something about it.”
“Do you remember you said ‘Good-night’ to me?”
“I remember that someone was there; I did not know it was you.”
“And you turned right, instead of left?”
“I dare say.”
“If you had taken the left-hand road you would never have seen
next morning.”
“Why so?”
“There was a large cargo of ‘run’ goods being transported that
night, and you would have met it.”
“What of that?”
“What of that? You would have been chucked over the cliffs.”
“But how could they suppose I would peach?”
“Sir! They’d ha’ took good care you shouldn’t a’ had the chance!”
I was sitting in a little seaport tavern in Cornwall one winter’s
evening, over a great fire, with a company of very old “salts,”
gossiping, yarning, singing, when up got a tough old fellow with a
face the colour of mahogany, and dark, piercing eyes, and the nose
of a hawk. Planting his feet wide apart, as though on deck in a
rolling sea, he began to sing in stentorian tones a folk-song relative
to a highwayman in the old times, when Sir John Fielding, the blind
magistrate at Westminster, put down highway robbery.
The ballad told of the evil deeds of this mounted robber of the
highways, and of how he was captured by “Fielding’s crew” and
condemned to die. It concluded:—​
“When I am dead, borne to my grave,
A gallant funeral may I have;
Six highwaymen to carry me,
With good broad swords and sweet liberty.

“Six blooming maidens shall bear my pall,


Give them white gloves and pink ribbons all;
And when I’m dead they’ll tell the truth,
I was a wild and a wicked youth.”

At the conclusion of each verse the whole assembly repeated the


two final lines. It was a striking scene; their eyes flashed, their
colour mounted, they hammered with their fists on the table and
with their heels on the floor. Some, in the wildness of their
excitement, sprang up, thrust their hands through their white or
grey hair, and flourished them, roaring like bulls.
When the song was done, and composure had settled over the
faces of the excited men, one of them said apologetically to me,
“You see, sir, we be all old smugglers, and have gone agin the law in
our best days.”
There is something to be said in extenuation of the wrongfulness
of English smuggling.
The customs duties were imposed first in England for the purpose
of protecting the coasts against pirates, who made descents on the
undefended villages, and kidnapped and carried off children and
men to sell as slaves in Africa, or who waylaid merchant vessels and
plundered them. But when all danger from pirates ceased, the duties
were not only maintained, but made more onerous.
It was consequently felt that there had been a violation of
compact on the side of the Crown, and bold spirits entertained no
scruple of conscience in carrying on contraband trade. The officers
of the Crown no longer proceeded to capture, bring to justice, and
hang notorious foreign pirates, but to capture, bring to justice, and
hang native seamen and traders. The preventive service became a
means of oppression, and not of relief.
That is the light in which the bold men of Cornwall regarded it;
that is the way in which it was regarded, not by the ignorant seamen
only, but by magistrates, country gentlemen, and parsons alike. As
an illustration of this, we may quote the story told by the late Rev. R.
S. Hawker, for many years vicar of Morwenstow, on the North
Cornish coast:—​
“It was full six o’clock in the afternoon of an autumn day when a
traveller arrived where the road ran along by a sandy beach just
above high-water mark.
“The stranger, a native of some inland town, and entirely
unacquainted with Cornwall and its ways, had reached the brink of
the tide just as a landing was coming off. It was a scene not only to
instruct a townsman, but to dazzle and surprise.
“At sea, just beyond the billows, lay a vessel, well moored with
anchors at stem and stern. Between the ship and the shore boats
laden to the gunwale passed to and fro. Crowds assembled on the
beach to help the cargo ashore.
“On the one hand a boisterous group surrounding a keg with the
head knocked in, into which they dipped whatsoever vessel came
first to hand; one man had filled his shoe. On the other side they
fought and wrestled, cursed and swore.
“Horrified at what he saw, the stranger lost all self-command and,
oblivious of personal danger, he began to shout: ‘What a horrible
sight! Have you no shame? Is there no magistrate at hand? Cannot
any justice of the peace be found in this fearful country?’
“‘No, thanks be,’ answered a hoarse, gruff voice; ‘none within
eight miles.’
“‘Well, then,’ screamed the stranger, ‘is there no clergyman
hereabouts? Does no minister of the parish live among you on this
coast?’
“‘Aye, to be sure there is,’ said the same deep voice.
“‘Well, how far off does he live? Where is he?’
“‘That’s he, sir, yonder with the lantern.’ And sure enough, there
he stood on a rock, and poured, with pastoral diligence, ‘the light of
other days’ on a busy congregation.”
It may almost be said that the Government did its best to
encourage smuggling by the harsh and vexatious restrictions it put
on trade. A prohibitory list of goods which might under no conditions
whatever be imported into Great Britain included gold and silver
brocade, cocoanut shells, foreign embroidery, manufactures of gold
and silver plate, ribbons and laces, chocolate and cocoa, calicoes
printed or dyed abroad, gloves and mittens.
Beside these a vast number of goods were charged with heavy
duties, as spirits, tea, tobacco. The duties on these were so
exorbitant, that it was worth while for men to attempt to run a cargo
without paying duty.
To quote a writer in the Edinburgh Review, at the time when
smuggling was fairly rife:—​
“To create by means of high duties an overwhelming
temptation to indulge in crime, and then to punish men for
indulging in it, is a proceeding wholly and completely
subversive of every principle of justice. It revolts the natural
feelings of the people, and teaches them to feel an interest in
the worst characters, to espouse their cause and to avenge
their wrongs.”
Desperate affrays took place between smugglers and the
preventive men, who were aware that the magistracy took a lenient
view of the case when one of them fell, and brought in “murder”
when an officer of the Crown shot a “free-trader.”
One of the most terrible men on the Cornish coast, remembered
by his evil repute, was “Cruel Coppinger.” He had a house at
Welcombe on the north coast, where lived his wife, an heiress. The
bed is still shown to the post of which he tied her and thrashed her
with a rope till she consented to make over her little fortune to his
exclusive use.
Coppinger had a small estate at Roscoff, in Brittany, which was
the headquarters of the smuggling trade during the European war.
He was paid by the British Government to carry despatches to and
from the French coast, but he took advantage of his credentials as a
Government agent to do much contraband business himself.
I remember, as a boy, an evil-faced old man, his complexion
flaming red and his hair very white, who kept a small tavern not in
the best repute. A story of this innkeeper was told, and it is possible
that it may be true—​naturally the subject was not one on which it
was possible to question him. He had been a smuggler in his day,
and a wild one too.
On one occasion, as he and his men were rowing a cargo ashore
they were pursued by a revenue boat. Tristram Davey, as I will call
this man, knew this bit of coast perfectly. There was a reef of sharp
slate rock that ran across the little bay, like a very keen saw with the
teeth set outward, and there was but one point at which this saw
could be crossed. Tristram knew the point to a nicety, even in the
gloaming, and he made for it, the revenue boat following.
He, however, did not make direct for it, but steered a little on one
side and then suddenly swerved and shot through the break. The
revenue boat came straight on, went upon the jaws of the reef, was
torn, and began to fill. Now the mate of this boat was one against
whom Tristram entertained a deadly enmity, because he had been
the means of a capture in which his property had been concerned.
So he turned the boat, and running back, he stood up, levelled a
gun and shot the mate through the heart; then away went the
smuggling boat to shore, leaving the rest of the revenue men to shift
as best they could with their injured boat.
The most noted smuggling centre between Penzance and
Porthleven was Prussia Cove, and there, to this day, stands the
house of John Carter, “The King of Prussia,” as he was called, the
most successful and notorious smuggler of the district. His reign
extended from 1777 to 1807, and he was succeeded by his son-in-
law, Captain William Richards, under whom Prussia Cove maintained
its old celebrity.
The story goes that John Carter, as a boy, playing at soldiers with
other boys, received the nickname of “The King of Prussia.” Formerly
the cove was called Porthleah, but in recollection of his exploits it is
now known as Prussia Cove.
On one occasion, during his absence from home, the excise
officers carried off a cargo that had lately arrived for Carter from
France. They conveyed it to the custom-house store. On his return,
Carter summoned his men, and at night he and they broke into the
stores and carried off all that he held to be his own, without
touching a single article to which he considered he had no claim. On
another occasion, when Carter was pursued by a revenue cutter, and
sore pressed, he ran through a narrow passage in the reefs, and
fired on the cutter’s boat sent after him. The fire was continued till
night fell, and Carter was then able to effect his escape.
Three classes of men were engaged in the smuggling business.
First came the “freighter”—​the man who entered on the business as
a commercial speculation. He engaged a vessel and purchased the
cargo, and made all the requisite arrangements for the landing.
Then came the “runners,” who transported the goods on shore from
the vessels. And lastly the “tub-carriers,” who conveyed the kegs on
their backs, slung across their shoulders, up the cliff to their
destination.
The tub-carriers were usually agricultural labourers in the
employment of farmers near the coast.
These farmers were in understanding with the smugglers, and on
a hint given, supplied them with their workmen, and were repaid
with a keg of spirits.
The entire English coast was subjected to blockade by the
Government to prevent the introduction into the country of goods
that had not paid duty, and the utmost ingenuity and skill had to be
exercised to run the blockade. But after that was done the smuggler
still ran great risk, for the coast was patrolled.
Smuggling methods were infinitely varied, depending on a great
variety of circumstances. Much daring, skill, and cleverness were
required. The smuggler and the preventive man were engaged in a
game in which each used all his faculties to overreach the other.
One means employed where the coast was well watched was for
the kegs to be sunk. A whole “crop,” as it was called, was attached
to a rope, that was weighted with stones and fastened at both ends
by an anchor. When a smuggling vessel saw no chance of landing its
cargo, it sank it and fixed it with the anchors, and the bearings of
the sunken “crop” were taken and communicated to the aiders and
abettors on land, who waited their opportunity to fish it up.
But the revenue officers were well aware of this dodge, and one
of their duties was to grope along the coast with hooks—​“creeping”
was the technical term—​for such deposits. A crop that had been
sunk in a hurry, and not in very deep water, was likely to suffer. The
ropes chafed and broke, or a floating keg, or one washed ashore,
was a certain betrayal of the presence of a crop not far off.
As a rule the contents of the sunken kegs suffered no
deterioration from being under water for some time; but if
submerged too long the spirits turned bad. Such deteriorated spirits
were known amongst coastguardsmen as “stinkibus.”
Every barrel of liquor as provided by the merchants at Roscoff
and elsewhere was furnished with a pair of sling ropes ready for
attachment to the cord in the event of sinking, and for carrying by
the tub-men when safely worked on shore.
Very often when a rowboat, towing a line of kegs after it, was
pursued, the smugglers were forced to let go the casks. Then the
coastguard secured them, but found the magistrates loath to
convict, because they could not swear that the kegs picked up were
identical with those let go by the smugglers. Accordingly they were
ordered, whenever such an event happened, to mark the line of
kegs by casting to them a peculiarly painted buoy.
In order to have information relative to the smugglers, so as to be
on the alert to “nab” them, the Government had paid spies in the
foreign ports, and also in the English ports.
Woe betide a spy if he were caught! No mercy was shown him.
There is here and there on the coast a pit, surrounded on all sides
but one by the sea, that goes by the name of “Dead Man’s Pool,” in
which tradition says that spies have been dropped.
Mr. Hawker, who has already been quoted, had as his man-of-all-
work an ex-smuggler named Pentire, from whom he got many
stories. One day Pentire asked Mr. Hawker:—​
“Can you tell me the reason, sir, that no grass will ever grow on
the grave of a man that’s hanged unjustly?”
“Indeed! How came that about?”
“Why, you see, they got poor Will down to Bodmin, all among
strangers; and there was bribery and false swearing, and so they
agreed together and hanged poor Will. But his friends begged the
body and brought the corpse home here to his own parish, and they
turfed the grave, and they sowed the grass twenty times over, but
’twas all of no use, nothing would grow; he was hanged unjustly.”
“Well, but, Pentire, what was he accused of? What had Will Pooly
done?”
“Done, your honour? Oh, nothing at all—​only killed an
exciseman.”
There are around the coast a great number of what are locally
called Vougghas, or Fogous (Welsh Ogofau), caves that were
artificially constructed for the stowing away of “run” goods.
There is one at Stoke Fleming, near Dartmouth. All along both
south and north coasts they are fairly common. On Dartmoor there
are also some, but these were for the preparation of spirits, most
likely, and the stowing away of what was locally “burnt.” They are
now employed for turnip cellars.
At one of the wildest and most rugged points of a singularly wild
and rugged coast, that of the north of Cornwall, are two tiny bays,
Porth Cothan and Porth Mear, in the parishes of S. Merryn and S.
Eval, at no great distance from Bedruthan, which has the credit of
being the finest piece of cliff scenery on this coast. Here the cliffs
tower up a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet above the sea; the
raging surf foams over chains of islets formed by the waves, which
burrow among the slaty, quartzose rocks, form caves, work further,
insulate crags, and finally convert into islands these nodes of more
durable rock. At Porth Cothan the cliffs fall away and form a lap of
shore, into which flows a little stream, that loses itself in the shifting
sands. A manor-house, a mill, a farmhouse or two are all the
dwellings near Porth Cothan, and of highways there is none for
many miles, the nearest being that from Wadebridge to S. Columb.
About a mile up the glen that forms the channel through which the
stream flows into Porth Cothan, is a tiny lateral combe, the steep
sides covered with heather and dense clumps and patches of furze.
Rather more than half-way down the steep slope of the hill is a
hole just large enough to admit of a man entering in a stooping
posture. To be strictly accurate, the height is 3 ft. 6 in. and the width
3 ft. But once within, the cave is found to be loftier, and runs for 50
feet due west, the height varying from 7 ft. 6 in. to 8 ft. 6 in., and
the width expanding to 8 ft. 3 in. Immediately within the entrance
may be observed notches cut in the rock, into which a beam might
be thrust to close the mouth of the cave, which was then filled in
with earth and bramble bushes drawn over it, when it would require
a very experienced eye to discover it. As it was, though the mouth
was open, my guide was in fault and unable to find it, and it was by
accident only that I lit upon it.
At 7 feet from the entrance a lateral gallery branches off to the
right, extending at present but 17 feet, and of that a portion of the
roof has fallen in. This gallery was much lower than the main one,
not being higher than 3 feet, but probably in a portion now choked it
rose, at all events in places, to a greater height. This side gallery
never served for the storage of smuggled goods. It was a passage
that originally was carried as far as the little cluster of cottages at
Trevethan, whence, so it is said, another passage communicated
with the sands of Porth Mear. The opening of the underground way
is said to have been in a well at Trevethan. But the whole is now
choked up. The tunnel was not carried in a straight line. It branched
out of the trunk at an acute angle, and was carried in a sweep
through the rocks with holes at intervals for the admission of light
and air. The total length must have been nearly 3500 feet. The
passage can in places be just traced by the falling in of the ground
above, but it cannot be pursued within. At the beginning of this
century this smugglers’ cave was in use.
There is still living an old woman who can give information
relative to the use of this cave.
“Well, Genefer, did you ever see smugglers who employed the
Vouggha?”
Vouggha, as already stated, is the old Cornish word for cave.
“Well, no, sir. I can’t say that; but my father did. He minded well
the time when the Vouggha was filled wi’ casks of spirits right chuck-
full.”
“But how were they got there?”
“That was easy enough. The boats ran their loads into Porth
Cothan, or, if the preventive men were on the watch, into Porth
Mear, which is hidden by the Island of Trescore, drawn like a screen
in front. They then rolled the kegs, or carried ’em, to the mouth of
the Vouggha or to Trevemedar, it did not matter which, and they
rolled ’em into the big cave, and then stopped the mouth up. They
could go and get a keg whenever they liked by the little passage
that has its mouth in the garden.”
“Did the preventive men never find out this place?”
“Never, sir, never. How could they? Who’d be that wicked as to tell
them? and they wasn’t clever enough to find it themselves. Besides,
it would take a deal of cleverness to find the mouth of the Vouggha
when closed with clats of turf and drawn over with brambles; and
that in the garden could be covered in five minutes—​easy.” After a
pause the old woman said, “Ah! it’s a pity I be so old and feeble, or I
could show you another as I knows of, and, I reckon, no one else.
But my father he had the secret. Oh, dear! oh, dear! what is the
world coming to—​for education and all kinds o’ wickedness? Sure,
there’s no smuggling now, and poor folks ha’n’t got the means o’
bettering themselves like proper Christians.”
There are other of these smugglers’ resorts extant in Cornwall,
usually built up underground—​one such at Marsland, in
Morwenstow; another at Helliger, near Penzance. The Penrose cave
is, however, cut out of the solid rock, and the pickmarks are
distinctly traceable throughout. At the end, someone has cut his
initials in the rock, with the date 1747.
CHAPTER XVIII.

PENZANCE
Penzance, the Holy Headland—​Madron—​A disciple of S. Piran—​
Madron Well—​The Feast—​Climate—​The Irish Colonisation—​
Penwith—​S. Breage—​Tregonning Hill—​Pencaer—​Movements of S.
Breage—​Cross of coagulated blood—​Frescoes—​Former extent of
Breage—​Sithney—​Germoe Church and Chair—​Germoe’s story—​
Pengersick Castle—​The Millatons—​The Giant’s throw—​Godolphin
Hall—​Skewis and Henry Rogers—​Clowance—​The Irish invaders—​
Gwinear—​Ludgvan—​The flower farms—​S. Hilary—​S. Michael’s
Mount—​Submerged forest—​Castel-an-Dinas—​Chysauster huts—​
The “Rounds”—​Newlyn—​The Breton Newlyna.
Penzance, the most western market town in Cornwall, is of
comparatively modern growth. Formerly it was but a fishing village,
occupying a promontory now distinguished as the quay, where stood
a chapel dedicated to S. Anthony. The name signifies the Holy Head,
or Headland, and there was probably a chapel on the projecting
finger of land long before the time of S. Anthony of Padua (1231),
whose cult was fostered by the Franciscan Order. It is not
improbable that on this headland there may have been a camp, in
which case the dedication is merely a misconception of An-Dinas.
The town arms are S. John the Baptist’s head on a charger, also
through misconception, the Holy Head being supposed to be his.
On the east side of the town near the shore was Lis-Cadock, or
the Court of Cadock. At one time the entrenchments were very
distinct, but they have now disappeared. This Cadock is probably
Cado, Duke of Cornwall, cousin of King Arthur, and famous as a
warrior in Geoffrey of Monmouth’s lying history. The termination oc
is a diminutive.
Penzance is in the parish of Madron, the founder of which, S.
Maternus, as he is called in Latin, is the Irish Medrhan, a disciple of
S. Kieran, or Piran. His brother Odran was closely attached to S.
Senan. Madron and Odran were but lads of from ten to fourteen
when they first visited S. Piran to ask his advice about going a
pilgrimage. He very sensibly recommended them to go to school
first, and he retained them with himself, instructing them in letters.
The Irish have no tradition that he was buried in the Emerald Isle, so
that in all probability he laid his bones in Cornwall.
There was a famous well at Madron, but it has lost its repute of
late years, and has fallen into ruin.
Children were formerly taken to the well on the first three Sunday
mornings in May to be dipped in the water, that they might be cured
of the rickets, or any other disorder with which they were troubled.
They were plunged thrice into the water by the parent or nurse, who
stood facing the east, and then they were clothed and laid on S.
Madron’s bed; should they go to sleep after the immersion, or
should the water in the well bubble, it was considered a good omen.
Strict silence was observed during the performance. At the present
time the people go in crowds to the well on the first Sunday in May,
when the Wesleyans hold a service there and a sermon is preached;
after which the people throw two pins or pebbles in, or lay small
crosses made of pieces of rush-pith united by a pin in the middle, in
the water and draw auguries therefrom.
Miss Couch in her book on the Cornish holy wells says:—​
“About thirty years ago I visited it, and it was then in a
ruined state. There was nothing of the shapely and sculptured
form of many of our eastern wells about it. It was merely an
oblong space enclosed by rough old walling, in which were, in
the south-west corner, a dilapidated well, with an inlet and
outlet for water, a raised row of stones in front of this, and
the remains of stone benches.”
A plan exists drawn by Mr. Blight before the well was as ruined as
at present. It is a crying scandal that it should be allowed to remain
unrestored. The altar-stone remains with a square depression in the
middle to receive the portable altar placed there on such occasions
as the chapel was used for mass.
Penzance, on the glorious Mount’s Bay, enjoys a warm and balmy
climate, and scarlet geraniums scramble up the house-fronts,
camellias bloom in the open air, and greenhouse rhododendrons
flourish unprotected from frosts that never fall.
It is a relaxing place, and the visitor, till he is acclimatised, feels
limp and lifeless. For this reason many now resort to St. Ives, on the
north coast, which is open to the Atlantic breezes straight from
Labrador, and Penzance is declining in favour.
But it is a pleasant, it is a most pleasant town, well furnished with
all that can make a winter sojourn delightful; it has in addition to
libraries and concert-halls and clubs, that may be found in any
seaside place, an unrivalled neighbourhood, and with the warm
climate it enjoys a winter may be spent delightfully in making
excursions to the many surrounding objects of interest.
In my next chapter I shall treat of the Land’s End district, and in
this I shall attempt to give some idea of what is to be seen to the
east.
As already intimated, the whole of this part of Cornwall was
occupied at the end of the fifth and the first years of the sixth
century by the Irish from the south, mainly from Ossory. An invasion
from Munster into that kingdom had led to the cutting of the throats
of most of the royal family and its subjugation under the invaders,
who maintained their sovereignty there from 470, when the invasion
took place, to the death of Scanlan, the descendant of the invader,
in 642. It was probably in consequence of this invasion that a large
number of Ossorians crossed over to Cornwall and established
themselves in Penwith—​the Welsh spell it Pengwaeth, the bloody
headland; the name tells a story of resistance and butchery.
Unhappily we have the most scanty references to this occupation;
records we have none.
But a single legend remains that treats of it at some length; and
with regard to the legends of the other settlers we have the meagre
extracts made by Leland, the antiquary of Henry VIII., whose heart,
so it is said, broke at the dispersion of the monastic libraries, and
the destruction of historical records of supreme value. As far as we
know, the great body of settlers all landed at Hayle. One large
contingent, with S. Breaca at its head, made at the outstart a rush
for Tregonning Hill, and established itself in the strong stone fort of
Pencaer, or Caer Conan, on the summit.
Tregonning Hill is not very high, it rises not six hundred feet
above the sea; but from the sea and from the country round it looks
bold and lofty, because standing alone, or almost so, having but the
inferior Godolphin Hill near it.
The fortress consists of at least two concentric rings of stone and
earth. The interior has been disturbed by miners searching for tin,
and the wall has also been ruined by them, but especially by
roadmakers, who have quite recently destroyed nearly all one side.
Here the Irish remained till they were able to move further. S.
Breaca went on to Talmeneth (the end of the mountain), where she
established herself and erected a chapel.
Another of her chapels was further down the hill at Chynoweth,
and a tradition of its existence remains there. Finally she went to
Penbro. The church was, however, at a later period moved from that
place to where it now stands. The local legend is that she saw the
good people building this church, and she promised to throw all her
bracelets and rings into the bell-metal if they would call it after her
name.
She was a favourite disciple of S. Bridget, and this latter saint
commissioned her to visit the great institution of the White House,
near S. David’s Head in Wales—​to obtain thence rules by which her
community might be directed. She was, it appears, the sister of S.
Brendan the navigator, and it was in his sister’s arms that the saint
died. Brendan was a disciple of S. Erc, of Erth, on the Hayle river,
and as Erc was one of the party, it is probable that Brendan made
one as well.
Erc had been much trusted by S. Patrick, who appointed him as
judge in all cases brought to him for decision, regarding him as a
man of inviolable integrity and great calmness of judgment.
The church of Breage is large and fine. In the churchyard is an
early cross of reddish conglomerate. The local story goes that there
was a great fight, between Godolphin Hill and Tregonning Hill,
fought by the natives with the Danes, and so much blood was shed
that it compacted the granitic sand there into hard rock, and out of
this rock Breaca’s cross was cut. The fight was, of course, not with
Danes, but was between the Cornish and the Irish. The cross is
rude, with the Celtic interlaced work on it. The pedestal was also
thus ornamented, but this is so worn that it can only be
distinguished in certain lights.
In the church have been discovered several frescoes—​S.
Christopher, gigantic, of course; an equally gigantic figure of Christ
covered with bleeding wounds; full-length representations of SS.
Samson, Germoe, Giles, Corentine, etc. The church has been much
decorated rather than restored. The modern woodwork screen and
bench-ends are indifferent in design and mechanical in execution.
Some Belgian carved work of the Adoration of the Magi blocks the
east window, which was filled with peculiarly vulgar glass, and this is
a possible excuse for completely obscuring it.
The sacred tribe under S. Breaca must have occupied a very
extensive tract, for four parish churches are affiliated to it—​S.
Germoe, Godolphin, Cury, and Gunwalloe. This leads one to suspect
that her territory stretched originally along the coast a good way
past Loe Pool. She had as neighbours S. Crewena, another
Irishwoman, and Sithney, or Setna, a disciple and companion of S.
Senan, of Land’s End. His mother was an aunt of S. David.
Sithney was asked:—​
“Tell me, O Setna,
Tidings of the World’s end.
How will the folk fare
That follow not the Truth?”
He answered in a poem that has been preserved. Prophecy is a
dangerous game to play at, even for a saint, and Sithney made a
very bad shot. He foretold that the Saxons would hold dominion in
Ireland till 1350, after which the Irish natives would expel them.
Sithney almost certainly accompanied Kieran or Piran, and he
succeeded him as abbot in his great monastery at Saighir.
The little church of Germoe is curious. It has a very early font,
and a later Norman font lying broken outside the church. There is a
curious structure, called Germoe’s Chair, in the churchyard, that
looks much like a summer-house manufactured out of old pillars
turned upside-down. But it was in existence in the time of Henry
VIII., for Leland mentions it. A new east window, quite out of
character with the church, has been inserted, but the modern glass
is good. A bust of S. Germoe is over the porch. He is represented as
crowned, as he is supposed to have been an Irish king.
This is not quite correct. He was a bard, and perhaps of royal
race, but we do not know his pedigree. He was a disciple of S.
Kieran, and was the father of the first writer of the lives of the saints
in Ireland. He composed a poem in honour of S. Finnan of Moville,
and he had the honour of having under him, for a short while, the
great Columba of Iona. He had several brothers, who passed into
France, and are mentioned by Flodoard, the historian of the Franks.
The date of his death was about 530. I have elsewhere told a story
about him tubbing with S. Kieran, and catching a fish in the tub.
Near Germoe, but nearer the sea, is the very fine remnant of a
castle, Pengersick. It was erected in the reign of Henry VIII. by a
certain man of the name of Millaton, probably of Millaton in
Bridestowe, Devon. He had committed a murder, and to escape
justice he fled his native county and concealed himself in the dip of
the land facing the sea at Pengersick, where he constructed a tower
amply provided with means of defence. The basement is furnished
with loopholes for firing upon anyone approaching, and above the
door is a shoot for melted lead. The whole building is beautifully
constructed.
Here Millaton remained in concealment till he died, never leaving
his tower for more than a brief stroll. The land had not been
purchased in his own name, but in that of his son Job, who, after his
death, was made Governor of S. Michael’s Mount. Job had a son,
William, who was made Sheriff of Cornwall in 1565, and he married
Honor, daughter of Sir William Godolphin of Godolphin.
According to a local legend, William Millaton and his wife Honor
lived a cat-and-dog life. They hated each other with a deadly hate,
and at length each severally resolved that this incompatible union
must come to an end.
William Millaton said to his wife, “Honor, we have lived in
wretchedness too long. Let us resolve on a reconciliation, forget the
past, and begin a new life.”
“Most certainly do I agree thereto,” said she.
“And,” continued William, “as a pledge of our reunion, let us have
a feast together to-night.”
So a banquet was spread in Pengersick Castle for them twain and
none others.
And when they had well eaten, then William Millaton said, “Let us
drink to our reunion.”
“I will drink if you will drink,” said she.
Then he drained his glass, and after that, she drained hers.
With a bitter laugh she said, “William, you have but three minutes
to live. Your cup was poisoned.”
“And you,” retorted he, “have but five, for yours is poisoned.”
“It is well,” said Honor; “I am content. I shall have two minutes in
which to triumph over your dead carcass, and to spurn it with my
foot.”
On the death of this William, the estate passed to his six sisters,
who married into the families of Erisy, Lanyon, Trefusis, Arundell,
Bonython, and Abbot of Hartland.
On the road from Breage, before the turn to Pengersick is
reached, a stone lies by the roadside. It is one of those cast by the
Giant of Godolphin Hill after his wife, of whom he was jealous, and
who was wont to visit the Giant of Pengersick. The stone has often
been removed, but such disaster has ensued to the man who has
removed it, that it has always been brought back again. Godolphin
Hill has been esteemed since the days of Elizabeth as one of the
richest of ore deposits, and it was due to the urgency of Sir Francis
Godolphin that miners were induced to come to Cornwall from the
Erz Gebirge, in Saxony, to introduce new methods and machinery in
the tin mines.
Godolphin Hall is an interesting old mansion, partly dating from
the time of Henry VII. and partly belonging to the period of the
Restoration. Some remains from a ruined church or chapel have
been worked into one of the gateways. The old house has its
stewponds and a few fine trees about it.
On the Marazion road, west of Millpool, in the hedge, are the
impress of the devil’s knees. One day, feeling the discomfort and
forlornness of his position, his majesty resolved on praying to have it
changed; so he knelt on a slab of granite, but his knees burned their
way into the stone. Then he jumped up, saying that praying
superinduced rheumatics, and he would have no more of it. The
holes are not tin-moulds, for the latter are angular and oblong, but
are very similar to the cup-markings found in many places in
connection with prehistoric monuments. Some precisely similar are
at Dumnakilty in Fermanagh.[26]
A strange circumstance occurred in 1734 at Skewis, close to the
line from Gwinear Road Station to Helston.
Skewis had been for many generations the freehold patrimony of
a yeoman family of the name of Rogers. There were two brothers.
The elder married and lived on the farm, but without a family. The
younger brother, Henry Rogers, was married and had several
children. He carried on for several years in Helston the trade of a
pewterer, then of considerable importance in Cornwall, although it is
now at an end. A large portion of the tin raised was mixed with lead
and exported in the form of pewter made into dishes, plates, etc.,
now superseded by earthenware. At the first introduction of
earthenware, called cloam, in the West of England, a strong
prejudice existed against it as liable to damage the tin trade, and it
was a popular cry to destroy all cloam, so as to bring back the use of
pewter.
The elder Rogers died, and bequeathed the house of Skewis and
the farm and everything thereon to his wife Anne. Henry was
indignant. He believed in the inalienability of “heir land.” He was
suspicious that Anne Rogers would make over Skewis to her own
relatives, of the name of Millett. Henry waited his opportunity, when
his sister-in-law was out of the house, to enter it and bring in his
wife and children and servants. He turned out the domestics of
Anne, and occupied the whole house.
The widow appealed to law, but the voice of the whole county
was against her, and the general opinion was that the will had been
extorted from her husband. Even Sir John S. Aubyn, living at
Clowance, hard by, favoured him, and had Henry Rogers acted in a
reasonable manner would have backed him up. But Rogers took the
law into his own hands, and when a judgment was given against
him, he still refused to surrender.
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