Jane Hiscock

Frances Lovett

BEAUTY
THERAPY 3rd edition

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 Heinemann is an imprint of Pearson Education Limited, a company incorporated in England and
Wales, having its registered office at Edinburgh Gate, Harlow, Essex, CM20 2JE. Registered
company number: 872828

www.pearsonschoolsandfecolleges.co.uk

Heinemann is a registered trademark of Pearson Education Limited

Text © Jane Hiscock, Frances Lovett, Fareham College, 2009

First published 2010

12 11 10
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN 978 0 435 02657 8

Copyright notice
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means
(including photocopying or storing it in any medium by electronic means and whether or not
transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication) without the written permission
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copyright owner’s written permission should be addressed to the publisher.

Edited by Susan Ross

Designed by Wooden Ark
Typeset by Oxford Designers & Illustrators Ltd
Original illustrations © Pearson Education 2010
Illustrated by Hardlines, Oxford Designers & Illustrators Ltd
Cover design by Wooden Ark
Picture research by Susi Paz
Cover photo/illustration © Imagesource
Printed in Italy by Rotolito Lombarda S.p.A

Websites
The websites used in this book were correct and up-to-date at the time of publication. It is
essential for tutors to preview each website before using it in class so as to ensure that the URL
is still accurate, relevant and appropriate. We suggest that tutors bookmark useful websites
and consider enabling students to access them through the school/college intranet.

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 Contents

Contents
Acknowledgements 4
Introduction 5

1 Professional skills
Professional basics
10
11

2 The workplace environment

G20
G18
G8
Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Promote additional services or products to clients
Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work
70
71
105
123
G4 Fulfil salon reception duties 149

3 Anatomy, physiology and the skin

You and the skin
Related anatomy and physiology
174
175
221

4 Practical skills
B4
B5
B8/9
Provide facial skincare treatment
Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and
application of skincare products and make-up
260
261
327

357
B6 Carry out waxing services 407
N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services 455
B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage 495

Index 509
Unit S1 Assist with spa operations is available on the Pearson Education website
at www.pearsonfe.co.uk/BeautyTherapyLevel2UnitS1. Answers to the
Check your knowledge quizzes are available on the Level 2 Tutor Resource Disk.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Acknowledgements
The authors and publisher would like to thank the following Shutterstock p 261; Shutterstock/Serghei Starus p 262;
individuals and organisations for permission to reproduce Shutterstock/Photobank.ch p 273 (top); DR. CHRIS HALE /
photographs and realia: SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 274; Shutterstock/Tania Zbrodko
Student book photos: Stockdisc/Getty Images p 14 (bottom); p 289; BE&W Agencja Fotograficzna Sp.zo.o./Alamy p 315 (top);
ShutterStock/Yuri Arcurs p 22; Dermalogica p 23, p 280, 282, David Woolley/Getty Images p 327; ImageSource p 352; Beauty
283, 284, 285, 287, 288; Cut2White p 34, p 94, p 117, p 167, Archive/Shutterstock; p 357; Bruce Talbot/Getty Images p 377;
p 183, p 212, p 218, p 275 (ingrowing hair), 343 (top), p 427, Tasha Lavigne/Shutterstock p 379 (lipliner); Titov Andriy/
p 460 (manicure bowl); SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 36/200/470 Shutterstock p 379 (lipstick); Advertising Archives p 396; Peter
(boil, wart), p 201 (ringworm), p 204/496 (chloasma), p 205 Banos/Alamy p 402 (skincare); ShutterStock/R. Gino Santa Maria
(strawberry naevus), p 275 (keloid scar), p 331 (bruising to the p 403; Image Source Ltd p 407; Shutterstock/Vladimir Kozieiev
eye); DR P. MARAZZI/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 36/200 p 408; HadK/Shutterstock p 419; Jupiterimages/Getty Images
(impetigo), p 37 (measles, oral thrush), p 455; Shutterstock/Ruslan Kudrin p 460 (polishes); Oleksii
p 200/331 (conjunctivitis), p 201 (blepharitis, bruise, scar tissue), Abramov/Shutterstock p 468; MIKE DEVLIN/SCIENCE PHOTO
p 202/331/496 (eczema, psoriasis, acne rosacea), p 204 (lentigo, LIBRARY p 470 (paronychia); DAVID PARKER/SCIENCE PHOTO
haemangioma), p 205 (spider naevus), p 275 (papule), p 469, LIBRARY p 470 (verruca); Shutterstock/Jason Stitt p 472 (Aisha);
p 471, p 472 (finger biting, splinter haemorrhage), p 474 (spoon Mediscan p 472 (Beau’s line); FRANCOISE SAUZE/SCIENCE
nail); ST BARTHOLOMEW’S HOSPITAL/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY PHOTO LIBRARY p 474 (bunion); BSIP, JOLYOT/SCIENCE
p 36/200 (cold sore), p 202 (dermatitis, acne vulgaris), p 275 PHOTO LIBRARY p 474 (corn); PRINCESS MARGARET ROSE
(pustule); BIOPHOTO ASSOCIATES/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY ORTHOPAEDIC HOSPITAL/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 474 (claw
p 37 (chickenpox); Carlton Professional p 43; MediSwab p 42 nail); Shutterstock/AVAVA p 475; Shutterstock/Ury p 482 (using a
(Medi-wipes); Valua Vitaly/ShutterStock p 71, p 348, p 258; ICP/ nail art brush); Ralf Nau/Getty Images p 495; Charles Fox p 496
Alamy p 79 (PAT testing); BeautyExpress.co.uk p 88, p 359, (before and after shots); ShutterStock/Bartosz Ostrowski p 504;
p 378, p 379 (mascara), p 384, p 385, p 402 (make-up), p 423, Andreas Kuehn/Getty Images p 506; Philippe Regard/Getty p 105;
p 429, p 430; Foodfolio/Alamy p 95; Dmitry Goygel-Sokol/Alamy Jeffrey Blackler/Alamy p 106.
p 97; ShutterStock/Wessel du Plooy p 113; PhotoLibrary/John All other photos: Pearson Education Ltd/Mindstudio; Pearson
Warburton-Lee p 127; Renee Tillmann p 129; ShutterStock/Rui Education Ltd/Image Source Ltd; Pearson Education Ltd/Gareth
Vale de Sousa p 139; ShutterStock/Stephen Coburn p 150; Boden; Pearson Education Ltd/ Studio 8/Clark Wiseman; Pearson
Jonathan Tennant/Alamy p 151; Chris Cooper-Smith/Alamy Education Ltd/Lord and Leverett; Pearson Education Ltd/Jules
p 154; Stephen Jakub/Alamy p 170; Najin/Shutterstock p 175; Selmes; Pearson Education Ltd/Peter Morris; Pearson Education
ShutterStock/Yuri Arcurs p 176 (top), p 186, p 211 (left); Ltd/Stuart Cox.
ShutterStock/Monkey Business Images p 176 (bottom); Photodisc/ Unit S1 photos: Solovieva Ekaterina/Shutterstock p 1; Dale Saunas
Cole Publishing Group/Keith Ovregaard p 178; ShutterStock/Rj p 3, p 6, p 10, p 11 (laconium), p 19; Personalsaunas.co.uk
Lerich p 192 (top); ShutterStock/János Gehring p 192 (bottom); p 11; Shutterstock/xJJx p 12; Shutterstock/Zsolt Nyulaszi p 14;
Image Source Ltd/Nigel Riches p 193; ShutterStock/Omkar.a.v p Roger Bamber/Alamy p 23 (caldarium); Shutterstock/Egezilci
194; Skinlogic.co.uk p 196; ALAIN DEX/PUBLIPHOTO DIFFUSION/ p 23 (hammam); Jerko Grubisic/Shutterstock p 23 (spa pool);
SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 200 (common cold); WESTERN IMAGEMORE Co. Ltd./Alamy p 31; IMAND/Alamy p 32; Dead Sea
OPHTHALMIC HOSPITAL/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 200/331 Range p 33; Pevonia-UK p 34; Pat Behnke/Alamy p 36.
(stye); JANE SHEMILT/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 201 (cuts),
p 473; Scott Camazine/PHOTOTAKE/Alamy p 202 (skin tag); Realia: Dermalogica (Facial treatment record card, p 30 and Skin
DR H.C.ROBINSON / SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 203; JAMES mapping diagram, p 31); Federation of Holistic Therapists
STEVENSON/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY p 204/496 (vitiligo); www.fht.org.uk) for text reproduced on p 67.
Moodboard/Alamy p 204 (freckles); Medical-on-Line/Alamy p 204 Every effort has been made to contact copyright holders of material
(dilated and split capillaries); JOHN RADCLIFFE HOSPITAL/ reproduced in this book. Any omissions will be rectified in
SCIENCE PHOTO p 205 (port wine stain); Aramis p 208; subsequent printings if notice is given to the publishers.
Photodisc/Kevin Peterson p 210 (middle), p 371; ShutterStock/ Crown copyright material reproduced with permission of the
Archana Bhartia p 210 (right); ShutterStock/Martina Ebel p 211 Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office and the Queen’s
(right); ShutterStock/Brenda Carson p 215; Shutterstock/Luba V Printer for Scotland.
Nel p 221; Shutterstock/Andresr p 222; Vlad Gavriloff/

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 Introduction

Introduction
Why choose a career in beauty therapy?
The world of beauty therapy is an exciting one, with close links to the fashion and
hairdressing industries. It is varied and diverse, offering lots of opportunities to learn
and develop skills in a range of different areas. Ultimately it is a service industry
and its main, and most rewarding, aim is to help others to feel good about their
appearance and be the very best they can be.
A career in beauty therapy offers you the opportunity to tailor a job most suited to
your personal circumstances or passion, whether that be travelling, working in a spa,
working for yourself or specialising in one particular field, such as make-up design.
With a Diploma (NVQ/SVQ), you have a firm foundation.

My story
Hi, my name is Lauren and I work as a beauty therapist on board a cruise ship – I’m
currently on a nine-month trip around the Caribbean! I signed up to do a Level 2 Diploma
(NVQ/SVQ) when I was 23 after a couple of jobs that I didn’t enjoy. I worked hard and
within two years, I had my L2 and L3 qualifications. I also worked part-time in a local
salon to really learn the trade. I’m glad I did because I think my salon experience gave me
the edge when I applied to work on the cruise ship. I had to attend a nine week training
course in London before starting the job to learn about the products we’d be using as well
as health and safety procedures to make sure all the passengers on board were safe at all
times. I would thoroughly recommend this career route to anyone who wants to see the
world. You work hard and the hours are long but you get to see some amazing places and
meet so many great people.

My story
Hi, I’m Zoe and I’m married with two small boys. I worked part-time in a supermarket
for many years before finally plucking up the courage to sign up for a beauty therapy
qualification at my local college. It was scary and I was worried about being the oldest
in the class but it was the best thing I ever did. Because I did part-time evening classes,
I was also able to carry on working and taking care of my boys. After a year, I qualified
at Level 2 and decided to work from home in the spare room above our garage. Once I
started letting people know, the word got round and now I have a thriving business with
lots of regular clients. I can choose my own hours to best suit my family and I’ve been
able to invest in some key pieces of equipment. It’s so fulfilling to have a job that I love
and I feel so much more confident.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

What is a Certificate/Diploma (NVQ/SVQ)?

If you are familiar with the Diploma (NVQ/SVQ) system and are confident about the
background to this method of gaining a qualification, then skip this section, and move
on! If you are new to the system, then read on.
NVQ = National Vocational Qualification
SVQ = Scottish Vocational Qualification
This is a different but highly successful method of gaining a qualification. You may
not have used it before, for example if you have come straight from school, or if you
have not been in a training situation for some time.
This is not an exam with a pass or fail outcome. NVQ/SVQ uses continual
assessments, in each unit, building up to a qualification. It is a fairer option for those
of us who freeze at the thought of an exam room!
There are several beauty therapy awarding bodies offering NVQs/SVQs. Your training
establishment will be able to guide you through the particular one they use, but the
standards do not vary too much, and the information within this book should cover all
eventualities.

How do I gain a Certificate/Diploma (NVQ/SVQ)?

The qualification is gained by showing lots of evidence within each unit and is
practically based, so each student gets a very good grounding in all the skill areas.
This means that when you go into a salon, you have dealt with most client requests
and have lots of confidence to perform the service that the client is paying for.

How do I get my evidence?

Many forms of evidence are acceptable and your trainer/lecturer will be able to guide
you through the best options for your individual learning programme. Each of the
different types of evidence is valid. These are:
observed work oral questions
witness statements written questions and/or assignments
assessment of prior learning other.
and experience (APL)
These will be recorded on evidence sheets provided and will form a portfolio. A
portfolio is just a collection of all the evidence together. It should be indexed and
easy to follow.

Why index?
An assessor will observe or guide you through the types of evidence listed above.
This person will have had special training for a specific qualification designed to help
you present your evidence in a format suitable for your awarding body.
For quality control and fairness across the subject areas, an internal verifier will check
the assessor and the portfolio instruction. This will be performed within your section/
school at your place of training and should happen on a regular basis.
The awarding body also has an external verifier who will visit your training
establishment regularly and check that both assessors and internal verifiers are giving
the correct information to you, the candidate. Then your portfolio can be accredited
with a certificate. This can be achieved a unit at a time, or applied for all at once. It’s
essential that you keep your portfolio organised and present your work in an easy-to-
view format.

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 Introduction

What evidence do I need?

You should ask your assessor about the most suitable method for the work you are
doing. Most portfolios have a mixture of evidence.
If you have previous experience (APL) – perhaps gained whilst working – or recent
qualifications, they can also be counted. For example, if you work in a shop, part-
time, and have experience using the till, dealing with customers and handling
complaints, then a witness statement from your employer that is current, valid,
signed and dated is very acceptable evidence.
This evidence would cover some of the reception units, as well as some
communication units and the interpersonal skills required. It also covers some of the
ranges required in your assessment books.
Other valid evidence could be photographs, project work, videotape or client record
cards.

Standards
To give the overall picture we can look at what you are going to need to do. First, your
training establishment will register you with its awarding body.
The awarding body will then issue you, the candidate, with your assessment book.
Take care of it; it is very precious. It will become your only source of evidence for all
your hard work.
Within your assessment book you will be given guidance on how to achieve each unit.
There are conditions and terms that you must follow.

Performance criteria
You must perform these in the course of your assessed treatment. They are numbered
and your assessor will tick them off as they are observed. For example, Unit B4 has
performance criteria including ‘using consultation techniques in a polite and friendly
manner to determine the client’s treatment plan’.

Ranges
These must be covered through the various methods of assessment previously
discussed – observed performance, oral question or simulation, written question,
project or through APL; for example, different skin types for Unit B4.

Beauty therapy pathway

The new Level 2 (NVQ/SVQ) Diploma in Beauty Therapy qualification has been
designed to enhance the career path of those wishing to have an all-round
qualification, or provide routes for those wishing to specialise in a make-up route.
The mandatory units are:
G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
G18 Promote additional services or products to clients
G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work
These are compulsory to all students, and cover all aspects of health and safety,
product promotion and how to become a good team worker for your salon. You must
take these three, and then choose one of the following routes:
Beauty Therapy General Route
Beauty Therapy Make-up Route

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

There are optional units as well, such as G4 Fulfil salon reception duties, B10
Enhance appearance using skin camouflage, and so on.
The object of the book is to support you by providing the units for all routes to the
qualification. This will make you into a highly employable beauty therapist, as you
will qualify in the units most useful to clients, salon owners and their managers. You
may decide that the General route is preferable because specialising early on in your
training may narrow your employability.
Those who gain a good grounding of all the units may wish to further their careers
by going on to take a Level 3 qualification. You may find it helpful to refer to HABIA’s
Career Ladder for Beauty Therapy. This can be found on the HABIA website at the
following link: http://www.habia.org/uploads/Beauty_Leaflet.pdf

How to use this book

This book has been designed with you in mind. It has a dual purpose:
1. To lead you through the Level 2 (NVQ/SVQ) Diploma in Beauty Therapy, providing
background, technical guidance with suggested evidence collection and key skill
information.
2. To provide a reference book that you will find useful to dip into, long after you
have gained your qualification. The comprehensive cross-referencing within the
individual chapters will guide you through the NVQ units and indicate where the
information applies – and should prevent repetition!
Each of the practical units contains the same essentials – the Professional basics.
This has been presented as a separate section that should be worked through
and adapted to the unit you are taking, at the time. The anatomy and physiology
required for each unit has also been separated so that it can be accessed and
referred to easily. As the anatomy and physiology is a constant theme throughout
the qualification, there is a mapping grid on page 223 showing what anatomy and
physiology you will need in each unit. Remember that you only have to learn it once
and apply the knowledge to the practical area you are working through.

Features to help your learning

The purpose of this book is to inform and guide you through your Level 2 (NVQ/SVQ)
Diploma in Beauty Therapy. To reinforce your learning process and get you thinking,
there are several features to help you.
Key terms
These highlight terms that are central to your understanding of the topic that you
may not have come across before.
Think about it
These activities will get you to think about applying theory to a practical situation.
They will give you an opportunity to stop and think about what you are doing when
you are carrying out treatments to ensure that you are striving for and achieving best
practice.
Salon Life
This is a full-page feature designed to look like the page of a magazine. It covers a
key issue or problem, including an account of a therapist’s experience in the salon
and expert guidance on the issue or problem covered.
My Story
Appearing throughout the units and within the Salon life feature page, these are
short, real-life accounts from people working within the industry with tips and

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 Introduction

suggestions. They are designed to get you to think about the different things you may
encounter and may need to think about in your day-to-day life as a beauty therapist.
Frequently asked questions
Expert advice and answers to some of the most commonly asked questions on each
practical topic – questions that may come up as you work through the practical units.
Check your knowledge
This is a list of multiple choice and/or short-answer questions provided at the end of
each unit to help you check your knowledge and understanding of that unit. Answers
are provided on the Level 2 Beauty Therapy Tutor Resource Disk.
For your portfolio
These are tasks or activities which encourage learning through research and
investigation. They are designed to help you to gather and generate evidence for your
portfolio and key skills.
Getting ready for assessment
At the end of each unit you will find helpful information and advice about how that
unit is assessed and guidance on what you will need to be able to demonstrate to
your assessor in terms of skills and competencies.

SAKS
We are pleased that this book has been endorsed by SAKS. Saks Education is
officially acknowledged as the UK’s Best Training Provider, having been awarded
Beacon Status by the Quality Improvement Agency and all grade ones by the Adult
Learning Inspectorate for providing outstanding training. It is the only hair and beauty
work-based learning provider to have been awarded both accolades.
Saks recognise that Education is the key to success! A good sound education can lead
to numerous career opportunities within the beauty industry and the basis for that is
NVQ Level 2.

About Hair and Beauty at Fareham College

The Hairdressing and Beauty Therapy Department at Fareham College is long
established and has been innovative in the implementation and delivery of a wide
range of successful courses.
On four consecutive occasions (1997, 2001, 2005 and 2008), the department
achieved the Government Inspectorate’s highest accolade of a Grade 1 for all-round
provision in courses and teaching and learning. In 2006 they were awarded the
prestigious Beacon Award by the Association of Colleges sponsored by City and
Guilds.
Over the years the department has been a leader in developing new initiatives which
have been recognised nationally; for example, teaching staff at Fareham College
have been involved with HABIA, working on the Expert Working Group during the
conception of the 14–19 Diplomas and are at the forefront of developing this
educational initiative with local consortia as Network Leads. The new Diploma in Hair
and Beauty studies has been delivered at Fareham College since September 2009.
This is the biggest educational change for 50 years and is an exciting introduction to
our sector for 14–19 learners, providing the opportunity for a variety of career paths.

Beverley Woolford
Head of Department for Beauty and Holistic Therapies

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 1
Section

Professional skills

10

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 Unit GH8
Professional
basics
What you will learn
You – the therapist
You and your client
You, your client and the law

11

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
The professional basics are literally everything that
underpins the skills you will require to become a
qualified beauty therapist.
Before you can decide upon the most suitable
treatment for your client, or prepare treatment
plans, you need to have a clear understanding of the
basic underlying principles of what you are doing.
This section covers the basic knowledge you will
need before you start working through any practical
unit. You will need to refer back to this section each
time you start a new practical unit.
Professional basics

Key terms You – the therapist

Treatment plan – an outline of the
most suitable skincare and treatment In this outcome you will learn about:
programme for a client to get
• professional presentation
maximum benefit.
• preparing to work
• effective communication
• salon services
• treatment planning and preparation
• effective teamwork and relationships
• record keeping.

Key terms Professional presentation

Awarding Body – monitors the All Awarding Bodies, clients and employers will expect you to have a professional
quality of the training you receive appearance, not only to achieve your assessments but also to set the standards
and issues you with your certificate at within your working life as a fully qualified therapist.
the end.
A professional appearance helps you feel the part and gives the client confidence
Hygiene – conditions and good
in your ability as a therapist. Your personal presentation includes the aspects
practices that promote and preserve
described below.
health by preventing cross-infection.
Hair
Hair needs to be clean, tidy and professional looking. It should be tied back away
from the face. Your hairstyle should not interfere with the treatment. It is very
distracting for clients if you have to keep flicking hair out of your eyes, and they may
find this irritating. Equally important, by constantly touching your hair you will be
breaking hygiene rules. You’ll read more about hygiene on pages 39–47.

12

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 Professional basics

Nails
Nails should be clean, short and unvarnished (unless the employer
states that, as a nail technician, you can have varnish on). Clients may
develop an allergy to varnish, and chipped nail varnish is not a good
advert for your trade! Unvarnished nails can also be seen to be clean.
Long nails may scratch the client’s skin when performing massage.
Rough cuticles, bitten or dirty nails set a poor example and will not
inspire confidence in your skills.

Jewellery
Hygiene and professional ethics state that the only jewellery permitted
is a plain wedding band and small unobtrusive earrings. Rings could
scratch the client and carry germs. Remember that other body piercing
may cause offence to some clients and does not reflect a professional
image. It is also a good idea not to take precious jewellery to work –
this will reduce the risk of losing it.
Uniforms
Most salons and training establishments require a professional uniform
to be worn. This should be clean, pressed, and of a suitable length to
work in. It is advisable to go up a size to allow free movement, or at
least try it on with arm movements tested!

Professional basics
It is also advisable to have several uniforms in order to allow one to
be in the wash, and to prevent one uniform getting too soiled. Regular
washing is essential to prevent body odour build-up as this can give off
an unpleasant stale smell to the client.
Your training establishment will probably have a uniform policy and
tell you the recommended supplier to go to – you should receive a
good discount for bulk purchase as you are in a college or training
establishment. Wear your uniform with pride – it will help you to feel
professional and look the part!
Make-up
Subtle make-up may be worn, but heavy make-up or stale-make-up (e.g. left over
from last night) is not professional. If the skin is clear and the eyebrows tidy, the
therapist may decide not to wear make-up at all – this is personal choice.
The key should be how the therapist feels and looks on the day! Light make-up Think about it
can hide minor blemishes and help tired eyes. If you need a ‘pick me up’,
use it wisely. Personal presentation not only
includes a professional appearance –
Perfume good grooming and a smart uniform
Remember that strong perfume may be as unpleasant to the client as body odour. – but for Unit G20 Make sure your
Choose a light fragrance that does not overpower, and remember that stale perfume actions reduce risks to health and
can be very off-putting. safety, it specifically covers personal
hygiene, clothing and accessories
Also bear in mind that perfume cannot hide body odour, so the use of anti-perspirants suitable for the workplace and
and deodorants is recommended, as well as daily bathing to prevent an accumulation avoiding anything which has the
of smells. An anti-perspirant will prevent perspiration building up, and a deodorant potential for an accident, such as
will help prevent odour. Most of the products available do both jobs. very high heels, or dangling jewellery.

13

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

My story
Being aware of body odour
Hello. My name is Melissa, and I am coming to the end of my first term as a Beauty Therapy
student at college. In my group, I occasionally have to work with a student who, although
she always looks good, has a bad case of body odour. Everyone in the group had noticed it
but felt too embarrassed to tell her. As I am slightly older than the rest of the group, they
asked me if I would have a word.
I thought it through and realised that the tutor should tackle the problem. If it was me, I
would want to know, but I didn’t want to upset the student by mentioning it. So, our tutor
spoke to the student. She hadn’t realised it was such a strong smell, and was puzzled
why she should have body odour since she washed and bathed regularly and changed
her overall daily. She decided to see her GP to find out if anything was wrong.
It turned out she had overactive sweat glands under her arms and was producing too much
sweat – it is called Bromohyperdrosis. She was given a special deodorant, which helped
dry up the sweat, and she is having some Botox injections to freeze the glands and stop
the problem.
She was slightly embarrassed when she rejoined the group, but we were all sympathetic –
and it would not have been pleasant for clients. I would want to be told – wouldn’t you?
Professional basics

Shoes
Your shoes should be clean and comfortable for a full day’s work. If your shoes do
not fit securely, you could have or cause an accident.
Check with your training establishment about your footwear – commercial companies
that supply uniforms often supply shoes too. Although in adverts for uniforms you
may see the model wearing flip flops or open-toe shoes, they are not practical for
all treatments. They would not provide protection if, say, hot wax were to be spilt on
your feet.
Remember high heels are for going out in; they are not suitable for long working
days and can damage your posture. Leather shoes allow the feet to breathe and are
therefore more hygienic, preventing a build-up of bacteria, which may cause odour
problems and lead to athlete’s foot. All people in occupations that involve long
periods of standing would benefit from support tights – even the young – as these
can prevent varicose veins forming and stop the legs from aching!

Oral hygiene
Regular dental care will prevent tooth decay and keep gums healthy, so stopping
bad breath forming. Regular brushing, mouth sprays, sugar-free mints and breath
fresheners are also advisable to prevent stale breath being passed over the client.
Remember that bad breath can be a sign of illness, so it may be worthwhile getting a
dental or medical check-up if you think you may have a problem.
It is only polite and courteous to your client to avoid strongly flavoured foods, such as
curry, garlic and onions, especially at lunchtime. Smoking can also cause odours that
cling to the breath – a good excuse to give up smoking, even if only at work.

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Think about it
It’s not only on the breath that smoke lingers – it clings to clothing and hair, which can
be off putting if you are delivering a treatment, say a facial, where you are in very close
contact with your client. A mint cannot hide all of that! Smoking in public places has
been banned since July 2007 so you will be liable to a heavy fine – £50 or a maximum
of £200, if prosecuted – if you are found smoking in your workplace. For more on this,
see You, your client and the law on page 55.

Benefits of professional presentation

For the therapist:
• Professional presentation helps you feel ready to take on a professional job role.
• It helps you feel part of a team as you all look the same.
• It encourages you to feel confident – you can take pride in looking proficient.
• It gives you self-assurance that you are meeting health and safety regulations.
• It gives you a self-belief and identity – you look as if you belong in the salon.
• It allows you to represent both yourself and the whole salon image.

For the client:

• A clean, tidy appearance gives a positive, lasting impression of both you as a

Professional basics
therapist and the corporate image of the salon.
• Clients feel ‘in safe hands’ as you look competent and efficient.
• It gives clients encouragement with their treatments – clients often want to look
like their therapist.
• It instils trust and a belief in you and your abilities because you look groomed
and clients then realise that your treatments are effective.

Preparing to work
Personal presentation will take you only so far in your job role and dealing with
clients – your attitude has to be right, too. Beauty therapy is a service industry. The
general public are your clients and they pay for your service and expertise. Therefore
they should also be entitled to your full attention and care.
It is not just the décor of a salon that creates atmosphere, it is the ambience created
by the people within it. How the therapist mentally prepares for work goes a long
way to producing the calm, relaxed feeling of a salon which allows the client to gain
maximum benefit from the treatment.
Put on a smiling, caring expression when you are working – you may have lots of
your own personal problems but passing them on to your client is not acceptable.
Never gossip to your client about others: either staff or clients. Do not shout, swear or
curse at work – you will develop the habit and not even realise when or to whom you
are doing it.

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Think about it
Imagine going to a really grumpy therapist, who started late, rushed the consultation,
didn’t even remember your name and was generally rude. You just wouldn’t go back
again, would you?

It is said that you get out of life what you put in – and that is also true about a beauty
therapy treatment. A quiet, relaxing facial should be as pleasurable to give as it is to
receive. A good therapist will gain satisfaction from a tranquil hour and you will find
that giving a facial massage is very soothing to both of you.

As a quality check after a treatment, a good therapist should ask herself:

Would I like to be treated as I have just treated that client?
Would I pay for the treatment I have just given to that client?
Could I have improved upon the quality of my service?
Was it as restful and as peaceful as it could have been?
Has the client rebooked?

Effective communication
Professional basics

Visitors New clients Colleagues Managers

YOU NEED EFFECTIVE

Telephone callers COMMUNICATION FOR Salon owners

Communication at work will be with Tradesmen Suppliers Enquiries Existing clients

many different people

Whatever your position at work, you will need to communicate with others. If your
business is to be successful, you will need to communicate effectively with a variety
of different people, as can be seen in the diagram. This communication can be
verbal, non-verbal or written.

Verbal communication
This refers to what you say and so it must be:
clear and to the point
easily understood, using everyday language – avoid jargon; technical terms
should be put into simpler terms, wherever possible
spoken in a friendly manner, with a relaxed facial expression and a smile where
appropriate
carefully enunciated, that is spoken clearly and with good projection
spoken while facing the client – try to direct your conversation only at the person
to whom you are speaking; the whole salon does not need to hear
considerate of those who may be hearing-impaired – eye contact can reinforce
your message.

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Try to avoid:
Think about it
using slang
Do use positive body language –
talking down to the client or treating her as if she is stupid – this is patronising expressions and gestures such as
and is a bad habit to get into smiling, nodding in agreement, lots
using endearing terms such as ‘dear’, ‘love’ or ‘darling’ – such terms are of eye contact and open gestures,
inappropriate in the workplace, and some clients may find them patronising. such as arms uncrossed.

Non-verbal communication Avoid negative body language –

frowning, tension, no eye contact
This is another term for body language. Your body conveys messages through your:
and closed gestures such as arms
general demeanour crossed.
posture
facial expressions
gestures.
These unconscious gestures tell you a lot more about the client than verbal
communication can. The therapist should be aware of the client’s body language and
learn how to interpret it.
Watch for signs that understanding is not clear, or the client is not satisfied or
following what you are saying. If the client is new to the salon, she may be nervous,
and this can be picked up through body language – look for continuous facial

Professional basics
touching, hair stroking or nervous gestures with the hands. New clients may need
reassurance and a calm manner to make them feel comfortable.

Body language – what this means

For the therapist:
• Use open hand gestures and ensure you look approachable – crossed arms and
legs, and/or a closed facial expression or a scowl on your face will discourage
the client from coming over to you.
• Smile and make eye contact – body language that avoids eye contact with the
other person gives the impression of being shifty or dishonest.
• Give the client her own personal space – avoid getting too close, which may
make her feel uncomfortable.
• Read the signs from your client – she may be saying one thing with her voice,
but her body language will give away her true feelings. Is the client nervous?
Look for hair twiddling and agitation with the hands. Is the client looking
confused? Watch for frowning and puzzled facial expressions. Adjust your body
language to suit the client’s and you will reassure her. Be calm and smooth in
your actions – this shows confidence.
For the client:
• If the client sees you as open and friendly, she will feel able to approach you
and will be less nervous or intimidated.
• The client will be more confident about you and your abilities if look like you are
an honest person.
• The client will be more likely to rebook and spend more money if you are a
welcoming, responsive therapist – and she will probably ask for you again!

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy
Professional basics

Positive body language Negative body language

Whether your body language is good or bad, it will create a lasting impression on the
For your portfolio
client – so make sure it is good!
Observe those around you and take
time to study their communication
Communicating and working together
skills – both in your learning When you work in a salon you will have a manager or a senior staff member, who
environment and outside, especially if supervises what you do, or you may have junior staff who you guide through the
you have a part-time job. working day. Good communication means being understood: the message sent out is
the message received.
Look at someone you admire
and consider to have good
communication skills – what do they
Working under supervision
do that makes it easy for you to get This means that you:
on with them and relate to them in a accept that someone is in charge
positive way?
should take instructions and act upon them
Write a 150–200-word summary of communicate effectively
how your boss communicates with
take responsibility for your job role and do it to the very best of your ability.
you. How could you improve your
own communication skills?

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 Professional basics

Working together
Good teamwork means:
supporting each other, not being in conflict with one another
giving the salon a good atmosphere, which the client senses
providing a reliable service
giving effective results.

Don’t create tensions by spreading gossip or rumours Always follow directives and instructions given to you

Remember to work
TO GET AHEAD IN BUSINESS as part of a team

Professional basics
Be inclusive – ensure you involve all team members in salon activity;
follow appropriate salon procedures for both practical tasks and internal communications

The ability to listen

The ability to listen is a dying art! In our fast-paced world we often only half listen
when someone is speaking, forming our reply even before the other person has
finished talking. A good listener will be attentive, look interested in what is being said
and be still, so that the information can be absorbed.
If you try to clear your work area or prepare for the treatment while doing your
consultation, the client will know that you are not listening thoroughly and are
distracted by the job you are doing. This does not show a caring or supportive manner.
To be a good listener you should:
be attentive – it is very off-putting if, when talking to someone, they look
uninterested, so avoid yawning or looking bored
avoid assuming you know what the client is going to say – whenever you take
something for granted and presume knowledge, you are more likely to make a
mistake
try not to be distracted by others or by external noise
try not to form your reply before the speaker has finished – you may miss an
important piece of information
be genuine.

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To have effective listening skills means:

Think about it
knowing when to stop talking and listen to what is being communicated
Communication is a two-way
process. listening with interest and understanding
having the right body language to show you are interested – be still, face the
client and make eye contact
providing encouragement and confirming you have understood what has been
said, e.g. nodding or agreeing with the point being discussed
confirming the statements the client is saying to show you have been listening
and you understand, e.g. ‘So, you have never had a full facial before, Mrs
Chapman?’.

Written communication
Communication that is written down must be:
clear and easy to understand
concise – only information that is required should be given
legible and easy to read
well presented – handwritten or word processed
correct – all the information should be included.
Avoid using texting language – not everyone understands this shorthand, and it is a
Professional basics

bad habit to get into. Write the words in full to avoid any confusion.

INTERNAL MEMO
Date: 24th Feb 2010 Taken by: Rasheda For: Saskia – senior
Time: 10.30am therapist
Message: Can Mrs Kaminski change her appointment from tomorrow to
next week as she has just been signed off by her doctor with a nasty
virus and is not going to work for the rest of the week. She doesn’t
want the girls in the salon to catch it and is too poorly to come in.
Action: If you agree can you just confirm by phone and leave a message
Written communication must be clear on the answer machine. tel: 01234 56789012
and concise

Clear written communication is important for many aspects of work within the busy
salon environment, including health and safety, accident reports and record cards.
For example, the client could be placed in danger if an allergic reaction warning on
her record card is not readable. Messages for staff can also cause misunderstanding
if appointments are cancelled or changed but not fully understood by the person
receiving the memo.

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 Professional basics

Benefits of good communication skills Key terms

For the therapist: Contra-indication – a condition that
will prevent a treatment from taking
• It gives you the chance to develop a relationship, or a rapport with the client.
place or that will require a treatment
The client is likely to make up her mind on your professionalism during her first
to be adapted.
treatment, so good communication is essential to build up her trust and will
help to ensure that the treatment is successful. Salon services – range of
professional treatments and activities
• It means there can be no misunderstanding about treatments, contra-
available in a beauty salon or spa.
indications and health and safety issues. Misunderstanding can lead to
problems and potentially be very serious: for example, if the client had a nut
allergy and you mumbled through the consultation, and she did not hear the
questions about allergies, there could be serious medical consequences.
• Relationships with other staff members are clear and will enable you to enjoy a
good working relationship.
For the client:
• The client feels valued – she is listened to and appreciated.
• The client feels safe and secure, knowing that all personal knowledge is
received and understood.
• The client is happy with how she is treated – it makes her feel special and she
will want to return for more treatments.

Professional basics
Salon services
A good therapist is pleasant, patient, and helpful to everyone who comes into the
salon. The needs of each person will vary and you must be able to give correct
information. If you do not know, you must be professional enough to admit your
knowledge is not sufficient, and get a salon manager to help – rather than making
something up.

Treatments offered
Even if you personally cannot perform the entire treatment list, it is important to
be aware of all the treatments and sell them. A professional therapist will have a
thorough knowledge of the treatment process, the advantages or disadvantages of
each, and each of the topics mentioned below. The salon will lose business if you
just shrug and say you do not know.

Think about it
Knowledge about your salon and the treatments and products it offers is key! Read
through all new literature for the salon or new treatments when they are launched.
Take responsibility to be up to date with all aspects of your salon, even if you cannot
perform the treatments yet. For example, you could sit in on a training exercise or
volunteer to be the model so that you can talk about what the treatment feels like and
how it had a great effect on your skin. The same applies with products. Take home
samples and try them so that you can talk with confidence about the feel, consistency
or benefits of the product.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

My story
Personal experience
Hi, my name is Marie. I am a mature Beauty Therapy student and have returned to college aer
working as a receptionist in a GPs’ surgery. I always wanted to do a beauty course. I am
really enjoying the course. Being a receptionist, I already had good communication
skills and customer services qualifications, so I was quite confident about doing a rota
on our college reception.
However, what I was very conscious of was my skin. I have always had some acne, with a
greasy skin, and breakouts. I covered my skin up quite well, but I was always very aware
of it and would not let anyone see me without make-up.
When we started the facial unit I decided to share my worries about my skin with my
tutor – she was really helpful. My tutor also takes a Level 3 group who are learning
the electrical facials for deep cleansing and healing. She asked me if I would be a
model for one of the students in the group and have a course of treatments. I was a bit scared at first, as I didn’t know
anyone in the group and they all seemed so professional, but I have learned so much about Level 3 treatments. Not only
can I talk them through when I am on reception, I can say how well my skin is doing!
My confidence has grown because my skin is clearing up nicely, and because I have had a galvanic facial, I can tell clients
what it feels like, and what the results are. The Level 3 student also recommended some new products for me to try at
home, so I felt really supported and encouraged. I would recommend that all Level 2 students go into another, more
Professional basics

advanced class and model for them. That way, you’ll get to see the salon from the client’s point of view and experience
some really good treatments.

Think about it Suitability of treatment

Not all treatments are suitable for every client. Some treatments require a sensitivity
Remember also to check for product
test, prior to the appointment, in order to assess the sensitivity of the skin or eyes. If a
suitability. Not all clients are suitable
client has a treatment that was not entirely suitable for her, she will not be pleased.
for every treatment or service.
A customer who is not completely satisfied will not return to the salon and may
Clients may have allergies or food
intolerances. Some aromatherapy-
spread bad publicity about the salon instead.
based products may irritate an Treatment timings
existing eczema condition. (Refer
The timings of treatments should be accurately given. Do not mislead the client or
to the lists of ingredients in Unit B4
underestimate how long a treatment may take, or your credibility will be undermined.
Provide facial skincare treatment,
In addition to this, the smooth running of the salon will be disturbed if timings are
pages 280–88.)
not given correctly. Learn the price list and treatment menu thoroughly so you can
accurately book in a client, and not disrupt the running order for the whole day.
Think about it Time is money and in order to be cost-effective the timing of treatments must be
Do not guess the time it takes for a accurate. Standard timings also help maintain the quality in the salon, so that all
treatment: if you underestimate, it therapists offer the same time for each treatment. Clients are then all treated equally
will disrupt the day’s running order, and get the same value for money.
and the therapist will be stressed
The frequency of treatments given should also be negotiated with the client and
trying to catch up; if you over
will be dependent upon the time available, financial considerations of the client, the
estimate, the treatments will finish
condition or suitability of the area of the body to be treated, and any contra-actions to
early and there will be gaps when the
therapist is doing nothing, which is
the treatment.
not cost-effective.

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 Professional basics

Think about it Key terms

If a deluxe manicure treatment with paraffin wax takes 45 minutes, and the Contra-action – an adverse physical
receptionist has booked the client in for only 30 minutes, there is very little time to reaction, as a result of treatment or
offer a relaxing treatment. So, either the treatment is modified (losing money for products. This should be recorded on
the salon), the treatment is rushed and the client is left dissatisfied, or the therapist the record card.
overruns and keeps the next client waiting. All of this could so easily have been
avoided, if the treatment time had been correct in the first place.

Prices
Prices will vary from salon to salon,
and area to area. Price lists should
always be on display. This allows
the client to view the costs for herself
and is also additional advertising. Face and eyes
Costings given should be truthful, Express facial (30 minutes) £25
with no hidden extras – no one likes Radiance boost facial (30 minutes) £32
to be conned.
Anti-ageing facial (60 minutes) £45
Special offers Deep-cleansing facial (75 minutes) £60
If the salon has any offers to pass on
Eyebrow shape £10

Professional basics
to the client, then the therapist needs
to be aware of them. This helps to *Eyelash tint £12
promote the offer and provides a *Eyebrow tint £10
chance to sell additional treatments
*Eyelash and brow tint £20
that your client may not be aware of.
*Patch test required 24hrs before treatment
Most people like a bargain, or offer,
and if they get to hear about it after
the offer closes they may not be
pleased. Clients need to know what the
different treatments and services
Remember that there is legislation in place regarding sale prices (refer to the Sale of involve and how much they cost
Goods Act, page 62, in the legislation section) so be careful when advertising a sale
in your window.

Retail sales
Retail sales form an important part of
any busy salon, and can help boost a
therapist’s pay at the end of the week.
Many salons offer a full retail sales
service to complement the products
used in the treatment. The therapist
needs to be aware of what the salon
sells, whether it is in stock, and what
the benefits and features of each
product are.

Retail sales can be an important

part of a salon’s business

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Money will be lost if you ignore the customer who wants to buy the product that has
For your portfolio
just been used within the treatment. Most suppliers provide large sizes of product
Carry out a comparison between for use in the treatment room, with a smaller retail size for the client. During the
two local salons in your area – are consultation, the therapist will ask the client about her homecare routine and which
the prices and treatments offered the products she uses. Continuous care at home with the right products boosts the
same or very different? Do they have benefits of a salon treatment and good results can be seen.
a similar client base or do they cater
for different tastes?
Think about it
Learners are sometimes hesitant about what they regard as ‘hard selling’, but it should
be viewed as part of the aftercare given to a client, which involves recommending
products that will enable the client to support the treatments carried out in the salon.
It’s a difficult skill to get right, and there is a fine balance between putting off a client
with a hard-selling approach and not actually recommending anything! The skill comes
with experience, confidence and belief in your products.

For your portfolio

When you sell retail-size salon products, keep a copy of the till receipt or daily taking
sheet. This will be excellent evidence for your portfolio for Units G18 Promote
additional services or products to clients and G8 Develop and maintain your
effectiveness at work, and shows you have communicated and listened to your client’s
Professional basics

needs.

If you are employed in a salon, also keep a copy of the salon price list and all the
advertising materials the salon may have. You need to be aware of what your salon
offers, regardless of whether you can perform the treatment or service, and you should
understand what each involves.

Complaints
Realistically, a busy salon will encounter complaints. It is therefore important for the
salon to have a complaints procedure, which staff are aware of and have been trained
to follow. This will mean that when a complaint does arise, however minor, the
correct salon policy can be followed. Here is an example of a complaints procedure.
Deal with any complaints pleasantly in a professional manner.
Calm the client and remove her from the reception desk to a more private area.
Listen to her. Be objective and not defensive – the complaint may be valid.
Be prepared to apologise if you are in the wrong and offer some form of
compensation – a free treatment perhaps.
Try to reach a mutually satisfactory outcome. This will minimise the damage that
a complaint may have on other customers, and prevent further legal action being
taken.
Should the complaint be about another person, speak to the staff member later
in a calm manner. Do not blame others in front of the customer.
Record the complaint in the customer comments book.
Be aware of the legal implications of further action (refer to the section on
insurance on page 65).

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 Professional basics

Treatment planning and preparation

Allow Prepare equipment Prepare your
consultation time working area

PLANNING
Carry out a patch test

Allow time for

Include homecare and Look for retail sales undressing and
aftercare advice opportunities dressing of the client Treatment and planning should include
these tasks

Treatment planning is essential for the smooth organisation of a salon where there
is more than one therapist working. Through good organisation, the relaxed, calm
atmosphere that a salon should have will be in place, and that will be reflected in
the mood of both customers and staff. Even if there is only one therapist employed,
treatment planning will help with time management in order to ensure that money is
not lost.
Remember the old saying:
Time = money

Professional basics
Treatment planning should be viewed as an investment. The more planning carried
out ‘behind the scenes’, the more professional the treatment becomes. The key is to
be organised.
Good working relationships between staff should also be part of the planning for the
salon manager or owner. Teamwork is very important and regular training and team
building is essential.

The receptionist
A good receptionist is worth their weight in gold. They are the first person the client
comes into contact with – often called ‘front of house’ as in a theatre. They represent
everyone else within the business and should create a welcoming and excellent first
impression. Their planning also needs to be first rate.
All the planning for the treatment starts with the receptionist and the initial booking of
treatments. The receptionist needs to be aware of:
what treatments are being offered through the day and therefore which
Treatment planning starts when a
preparations can begin early, e.g. turning on the wax heaters client is booked in
what any treatment involves and therefore how much time should be booked out
if this is a first treatment for the client or the middle of a course Think about it
if a full consultation is needed, therefore requiring more time Treatment planning and being on
the ‘before’ and ‘after’ time required for the treatment, that is undressing/ reception should be done in a calm
dressing/shoes, etc. and organised manner – if you are
hurried and anxious, you will pass
Extra time should be included so that a client relationship can be built up. those feelings on to the client, who
may be agitated and consequently
Last-minute alterations
not enjoy her treatment. Business
An organised therapist will make the receptionist aware of any alterations to the day,
may be lost.
any time out of the salon, and any change of plans, well in advance.

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Obviously, the uncontrollable factor is sickness. If you have a full column of clients
booked in and are unable to attend work because of illness, there is very little that
can be done. Therefore, the earlier you notify the salon, the better.
The receptionist should be able to rearrange some clients for another day, or at least
notify them, as they may wish to cancel. The other therapists in the salon then have
the task of covering all the clients who cannot be contacted. This is dependent upon
the goodwill of the other staff members, and a good relationship is vital for the
health, growth and atmosphere of the salon.
You should discuss at the initial job interview what the establishment policy is
regarding illness and sick cover, as well as sick pay.
Good working relationships between staff should also be part of the planning for the
salon manager or owner. Teamwork is very important and regular training and team
building is essential.
Reliability is a valuable quality and helps to build goodwill among team members.
If you are constantly relying on others to counter the effects of your bad planning or
time management, then tensions may increase in the workplace.

Sickness in the salon – what it may mean

For the therapist:
Professional basics

• spreading of germs or disease in the salon to both clients and staff members,
especially something that is highly contagious such as sickness or diarrhoea
• unhygienic practice – even if it is a minor complaint such as a running nose, you
cannot afford to ‘drip’ all over the client!
• lost wages – especially if you have a high sickness rate for odd days off
• lost business.

For the client:

• a cancelled appointment, which can be very disappointing
• exposure to additional germs and illness if a therapist with a contagious
condition comes into work
• delays and rescheduling into another therapist’s column
• may decide to take her business elsewhere.

Think about it
To obtain evidence for Unit G18 Promote additional services or products and G8
Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work, you will need to spend time acting
as the salon manager as part of your duties. This puts you in charge of allotting
treatments and managing the bookings for the day. If you are trying to fit in a full page
of treatments and half of your team is off sick, it will involve a lot of swapping about
and possible cancellation of clients. You will certainly see the other side of the coin and
how disappointed clients are when their treatments are cancelled.

Develop and improve personal effectiveness within the job role

You must prepare for the working day ahead and contribute to the planning of the
salon. Remember, however, that treatment planning is not just about appearance

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 Professional basics

and personal presentation as discussed on pages 12–13. Just as important is your

approach or mind-set. Most organisational skills develop from having the right attitude.
Being organised and planning ahead can become second nature and almost part
of your personality at work. Being prepared, tidy and forward thinking are very good
habits to cultivate!

Benefits of personal effectiveness and organisation

For the therapist:
• At home:
Is my appearance professional and as good as it could be?
Do I have everything I need for the day: money, lunch, keys, handbag, loose
change for parking or the bus?
Have I allowed enough time for my journey, public transport, or time to walk?
• At work:
What treatments do I have booked in?
Am I prepared for them? Have I got enough of the right equipment, stock and
tissues, sponges and cotton wool?
What time is my first appointment?
Do I need to organise a float, till roll or fill up tea/coffee?
Is my working area clean, tidy and welcoming for the client?

Professional basics
• Mind-set/mental approach:
Am I calm and relaxed to greet my client?
Am I focused on the client and not on my own problems?
Am I confident in what I am doing?
Am I fully prepared?
For the client:
• They will feel calmed by the tranquil atmosphere in the salon.
• Their pace will match the therapist’s relaxed approach and they can begin to
unwind.
• They will feel cosseted and pampered by the therapist’s undivided attention.
• Their tension will drain away as they realise their treatment is hassle-free.
• They will want to repeat the experience – and will book another appointment!

Think about it
In Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work, you will be expected to
review your own performance at work. Ask yourself the following as you go through
the day:
• What went right today and why?
• Did anything go wrong and why?
• Did I keep my clients waiting for their treatment or service to begin?
• Have I allowed enough time to give full attention to each client?
• Are my clients totally satisfied with my service?
• Is all my equipment to hand?
• Have I left my client unattended to go and get equipment?

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• Can I help colleagues with their set up, or do I need help with mine?
• Would I pay for the treatments I have carried out today?
• How could I improve upon my performance tomorrow at work?

By continually evaluating your answers to the above questions you will be able to
recognise and improve upon your working pattern. If being disorganised is a habit that
you have fallen into, with the attitude that ‘it really doesn’t matter, because someone
else will do it’, then bad habits need breaking.

Effective teamwork and relationships

During your practical sessions for Units G4 and G18, so that assessments can take
place, you will be asked to run a realistic working environment (RWE), with fee-paying
customers booked in, just as in the industry. These sessions will involve you acting as
salon manager for a day. It needs good teamwork and an excellent relationship with
your peers to be able to plan and run an RWE session effectively. How you organise
the session affects everyone, and you need to be aware of what is expected of a
salon manager.
The salon manager plays a vital role and it is important that you understand how
what he or she does affects how the salon operates.
Professional basics

The manager
The role of the salon manager is vital to the treatment planning and preparation
of the working day. A good manager will organise the salon, the staff and take
responsibility for the well-being and safety of the clients.
For the salon, the manager will:
have a set system in place for morning and evening preparation and jobs to be
done (these should be on a rota basis for all to do)
have procedures and rules for everyone to follow – this will provide a consistent
standard of service
have clear guidelines on treatment times and expected preparation time
provide realistic times for specific treatments.
For the staff, the manager will:
hold regular training sessions for everyone so that all members of staff know
what is expected of them
Key terms praise and reward those who perform well
Appraisal – a one-to-one meeting hold regular appraisals and direct those who are not organised
between an employee and their line
instruct clearly and without favour
manager to discuss how the job role
is going and identify further training
instruct clearly with regard to being cost-effective, not wasting products and being
required. It may involve a considered uneconomical
opinion, estimation or judgement of lead by example and be professional at all times.
an individual or an estimate of value.
For the client, the manager will:
ensure that systems and procedures are in place for the health and well-being of
all clients and visitors, including risk assessments on the salon and equipment,

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upholding the law on health and safety and holding regular fire evacuation
practices (see pages 49–61 for more health and safety information)
hold a first aid certificate that is up to date and valid
protect the client with regular sensitivity testing for potential allergy-related
products and ensure all staff are trained in these procedures
take responsibility for complaints and refunds.

Record keeping
Good record keeping is absolutely essential to any beauty salon. You should create
and use good systems in order to keep track of your work and the clients.

Record cards
The functions of a record card are:
to record relevant contact details so as to be able to contact the client if
necessary
to provide full and accurate information about the client to ensure client safety
to ensure consistency of treatment – regardless of who performs the treatment
to record the number of treatments in a course and the date of each – this is so For your portfolio
that if the client changes therapists for any reason, there is a complete record of
Some Awarding Bodies will require

Professional basics
what they have had and when
a parent/guardian’s signature on a
to note changes to the treatment programme or contra-actions if they occur consent form for clients less than
to record the progress of the condition or treatment success 16 years of age, and this should be
attached to the record card. You will
to safeguard the salon and the therapists – to prevent clients taking legal action
need to make sure a copy is in your
for damages or negligence.
portfolio if you are treating a young
The record card should be filled out in full for every treatment or service the client person.
has. It should be written accurately, neatly and legibly.

Think about it Think about it

A record card can also be used to record information that will enable you to develop The personal information on record
a better relationship with your client and perhaps to avoid saying something cards should always be kept private
embarrassing! For example, a note that says ‘recently widowed’ or ‘newly married’ will and confidential. Under the Data
not only be a good jog for your memory, but if you are off sick, and another therapist Protection Act you are not permitted
treats your regular clients, they will know whether to handle the client with extra to pass on names and addresses and
sensitivity or enquire about her honeymoon – it doesn’t take much to add a personal other information about your client.
touch to a client’s day! If the salon or therapist does so, they
may be liable to prosecution.
Record systems
Most salons have a number system in place (see below), or keep records on
computer. This is both for safekeeping and for easy retrieval. Most software packages
for computers have a database system for easy recovery of names and storage. A
computer system is a large cost to start with, but can be very easy to use, with the
correct training. It is ideal for use in a larger salon, with a wide client base. However,
the Data Protection Act 1998 needs to be upheld (see You, the client and the law,
page 63).

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If the data is set up in a database or spreadsheet, it is easy to print labels with client
Think about it names and addresses so that you can post them details of promotions and special
The record card should be signed offers.
and dated, every time, to show the
The storage of record cards should be given consideration. They need to be accessible
client gives written consent to the
to the receptionist or therapist, but not so open that others can view them. A locked
treatment. If the client is under 16
filing cabinet or drawer is most common, with limited access to the keys.
you must also obtain parental or
guardian written consent. Some The two most common ways of filing names are:
Awarding Bodies do not allow
assessments to take place on minors,
a number system – client 1, client 2, etc.
so do always check the age of the an alphabetical system – A, B, C, etc.
client when booking the treatment.
Alphabetical systems tend to use the first letter of the surname and if two names
The more detailed your record card,
begin with the same letter, then the second letter is used, and so on.
the safer and easier the treatment for
all concerned. Benefits of record cards
For the therapist:
• It provides a complete picture of the client. This will
include: personal details, lifestyle, occupation, any
medical conditions and minor health issues that may
impact upon treatment.
• It gives an immediate view of potential problems:
Professional basics

allergies to products, adverse reactions to products

or treatments (known as contra-actions) and medical
considerations which may affect the treatment, such as
pregnancy.
• It tracks the treatments the client has and if she has
had a course of specific treatments, providing a record
of what the client has paid to date and how many
treatments she has had – so avoiding any possible
disputes.
• It provides a chart of the progress made and provides an
opportunity to boost the client’s morale and state how
well she is doing.
• It protects the therapist against any accusation of
misconduct, malpractice or negligence if filled out
correctly and signed by the client – the client will have
given her consent to the treatment being carried out.
For the client:
• It ensures the client’s protection by providing a record
of her medical history, so regardless of which therapist
treats the client, all are aware of any medical problems.
• It provides a record of the client’s improvement and
allows her to see progress being made.
• It makes the client feel special, and it personalises the
treatment – the client isn’t just a number, she matters
Dermologìca include a detailed skin mapping diagram on their
to the salon.
facial treatment record card (Source: Dermalogica)

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Subject specific record cards

Obviously, each client record card will be different and be personal to the clients:
recording their treatment plan, skin problems, and personal history. Most product
houses supply their own record cards which can be purchased in bulk. These offer
a thorough checklist of contra-indications, the client’s health, skin type, previous
products used, retail sales history and so on. They also include a detailed line
drawing of the face and body so that you can accurately highlight the problem areas
– you must be as detailed as possible for both the continuity of the treatments and
so that other therapists are aware of the treatment programme.

Think about it
Whichever treatment you are performing, the client will need a subject specific record
card, so if she has a manicure, facial and eye treatments, she will need to have all three
in her record file. You will need to fill out all of them as evidence for your assessments
and as a written record to show her consent to having these treatments performed.
Skin mapping diagram
(Source: Dermalogica)

You and your client

In this outcome you will learn about:

Professional basics
• a ssessment techniques and questioning the client
• contra-indications
• contra-actions
• hygiene and avoiding cross-infection
• treatment and client expectations

Assessment techniques and questioning the

client
This is a vital part of your role as a successful therapist. All treatments and services
are based upon what you discover within the initial consultation. The only way
to make a correct diagnosis of the client’s needs is through questioning and then
tailoring your plan to the information you receive. All practical assessments are based
upon successful client consultations and recognising the client’s needs.
All thriving salons earn their reputation by providing an excellent personal service.
Care and attention to the client is the key to good business. The consultation should
be carried out in privacy, and the service should be free. It is standard practice to link
a consultation with a treatment plan.
The consultation also provides the initial bonding process between client and
therapist. You can get to know the client a little better as well as gaining a clear
picture of her for the treatment, including: contra-indications, her current skincare
regime and how effective it is, and what she hopes to gain from the treatment or
service. Managing a client’s expectation is often a hard part of the consultation – a
facial will make the skin look better and clearer, but it will not change the shape of
the face, or turn the client into her favourite celebrity!

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A good therapist will use all the skills mentioned and follow the client’s body
language to help obtain the information required for a good effective treatment plan.
It must be agreed mutually that the time and money involved and the results suit
both your client and yourself. If the plan is unrealistic, the client will not stay with
the salon; she will go elsewhere.

Clarification techniques Observation skills Technical knowledge

Questioning techniques PROFESSIONAL CONSULTATION

Effective Contra-indication Treatment and

Your professional consultation should communication awareness product knowledge
include all this

Questioning techniques
Asking questions is a skilled task. If you really want to find out what the client thinks
and needs from you, you need to ask her. How you ask, what you ask and the type of
question will dictate the reply you get. So, it is important that you give some care to
your questioning technique.
If you ask the right questions and listen carefully to the answer, the treatment almost
Professional basics

plans itself! All information should be included on the record card, which you will
be filling out as you discuss details during the consultation. Use the record card as
your guide. As already stated, verbal questioning will determine all the personal
details – refresh your memory by looking at record cards above. There are two types
of questions: closed and open.

Closed questions
Closed questions usually need only one-word answers. They do not
allow conversation to flow, but they are good for confirming information,
so they have their place. For example, ‘Have you ever had high blood
pressure?’ will enable you to confirm or eliminate information when the
client responds with ‘Yes, I have’ or ‘No, I have not’. Sometimes you have
to use a closed question if you just require facts, but try to keep them to a
minimum.

Open questions
Open questions provide a hook for the other person to respond to in more
detail than a simple ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer. For example, ‘How did you get
to the salon today?’ requires the client to give a more detailed answer, so
such questions are good to break the ice. They help build a rapport with
the client and put them at their ease.
A professional therapist will use open or leading questions to help put
her new client at ease and draw them out ahead of the consultation. For
example, the following open questions could be asked as she greets the
client at the door.
A successful consultation leads to a
good treatment or service

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 Professional basics

What’s the weather doing out there now?

How far have you come?
Where did you manage to park the car?
How did you hear about us?
It is better to use open questions than closed questions, such as the following.
Is it still raining?
Have you been here before?
Did you get the bus?
Is this your lunch hour?
Open questions are also a good means of recommending products, as you can start a
dialogue about which products they have used, how they found them, how long they
lasted, and so on.
A mixture of both open and closed questions will need to be used in the consultation
process, but try to use them in the appropriate context – and then they will become a
great tool towards a thorough and professional consultation.

Observation skills
Diagnosis of the client’s well-being is not only discovered by the consultation questions
but also through observation. It can reveal as much as, and sometimes more than,

Professional basics
questioning alone. You will be carrying out detailed observations on the specific areas
of the client to be treated – these are covered in the individual practical units. However,
it is not just about looking at the skin, or the area to be treated, it is about seeing the
client as she first walks into the salon. The unconscious body language of the client can
speak volumes about her general attitude and state of mind.
A dropped pair of shoulders and dragging feet will indicate that she is nervous, a bit Think about it
low in self-esteem or worried or anxious about something. A confident client will have We are all different. One client may
more direct body language, more eye contact, with a spring in the step and an upright be quite open and talk freely about
posture. So, when your client arrives it is important to observe: herself and what she hopes to get
from the treatment or service; others
how they walk in – what does the body language say: confident or hesitant?
may be shy, and it may be some time
the client’s general appearance – ungroomed or groomed? before you fully gain the clients’ trust
how they stand and confidence. As in life in general,
relationships take time to build.
how they sit
if there is a mobility issue or disability to be aware of, or any other special Never assume something about
consideration. the client and listen carefully to the
answers given.
In addition to this, you may be able to look at some of the area to be treated (if on
the face or hands), the condition of the client’s skin, the amount of care and attention It’s a good idea to have a practice
run – ask a close family member,
previously given to the area and how well the client is groomed – her hair, nail
or someone you know really well,
varnish, make-up.
whether you can carry out a full
If the client doesn’t wear nail varnish or make-up, it may mean that she does not consultation on them. Although you
know how to use them, or perhaps considers them too expensive or time-consuming know the person, try to view them as
to bother with. She might also prefer a more natural look. All this will give you an a client. Ask about lifestyle, skincare
indication of which treatments are likely to best suit the client’s needs. regime, diet, and so on, to build up a
good picture of them.
The other important factor to look at is, of course, your client’s reactions to you.

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Clarification techniques
Clarification means checking the details given by the client to ensure the information
that she gives you is recorded correctly. You need to do this whenever information is
being passed on to you. It will happen at all stages of client contact. The following
are examples.
1 When the client makes a telephone booking, all information regarding date, time,
the nature of treatment or service, and the client’s name and number should be
repeated back as confirmation. Avoid saying what the treatment is too loudly, as
it could be of a sensitive nature, e.g. if the client is booked in to have a bikini wax,
she may not appreciate everyone in reception knowing about it!
2 When the client arrives at reception for the appointment, the time of the booking
and the name of the therapist can be repeated to the client.
3 When the client is having the consultation.
Repetition of details will enable the correct treatment plan to be prescribed and
reinforces what the therapist may already know. For instance: ‘So, Mrs Lakhani, your
skin has been dry for most of the winter months. What products are you using?’
This also gives the client lots of opportunities to respond to your open questioning
techniques and therefore rapport builds up between you.

Think about it Technical knowledge

Professional basics

It is very important that you fully understand the treatments you are talking
Try to use straightforward language
about. Do not make anything up – this is very unprofessional. Always refer to the
when talking to your client. Use
manufacturer’s instructions and product information if you are unsure.
words that she will recognise and
avoid jargon: for example, refer to You should always have a copy of your salon’s price list at hand to refer to. You could
blackheads not comedones! The give it to the client to take home to look at later, as she may not take in everything
client will want to know what the you say during the consultation and might like to book a further treatment.
treatment or service can do for her
and the results. Resist the temptation
A good price list should have the treatment description, time of the treatment and the
to show off your knowledge of cost, along with a brief description of what happens and how it feels: for example,
technical terms – they will only waxing should be highlighted as being slightly uncomfortable, like a plaster being
confuse her. ripped off the skin, and a deep facial massage could be described as ‘total relaxing
bliss’!

Product knowledge

Get to know your products to talk

about them with confidence

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 Professional basics

Products, like treatments, require some time and effort so that you fully understand
what they can do and how to use them properly. Be sure the information, benefits
and effects you are claiming are true. It is also professional to ensure that the product
you wish to sell to your client is appropriate and in stock. Selling an unsuitable
product just to close the sale is very bad practice. You will lose the client as they can
no longer trust you – you may have gained a sale in the short term but lost a client
in the long term.
Regular training and visits from manufacturers will ensure that your information is up
to date and accurate. Many companies are happy to visit training establishments to
introduce their product. It is a good idea to volunteer to model for product training so
that you can talk about what the treatment/product feels like and keep experimenting
with the products. It is common for therapists to have their favourite products and just
stick to those, as they feel confident with them. Because they use the same products
all the time, they keep on recommending them, never extending their knowledge to
other products. Often it is only when a product is discontinued that the therapist is
forced into trying something new – so try to keep an open mind.
Treatment and product advice Think about it
The client has come to you (and is paying) for your skill and expertise. Some of her Under the Trade Descriptions Act
issues may be of a personal or sensitive nature. Be gentle with her and treat her 1968 it is a crime to sell goods falsely,
kindly. Treat her as you would wish to be treated. or to sell, or offer for sale, goods

Professional basics
When giving advice remember never to patronise or talk down to your client. All that have a false claim made about
clients should be treated with the same respect and courtesy, regardless of how trivial them. So, you cannot claim a cream
their problems or questions may seem. Be both honest and realistic with aims and will remove wrinkles or make you
look 20 years younger. Look at skin
objectives in the treatment plan, especially with courses of treatment.
product advertisements in magazines
Make sure the client realises that results may take some time and are often not and on television: while they may
instant. Perhaps some small treatments that do have instantly visible results could say that the product can make the
be used as a morale booster, such as a nail varnish with a manicure or an eyebrow skin appear smoother or reduce the
tidy. appearance of fine lines, they will
not claim that the product will make
Contra-indications fine lines disappear, as this would
be a false claim. So, be very careful
A contra-indication is the presence of a condition which makes the client unsuitable with regard to the law when putting
for treatment. A contra-indication means that treatment should not take place at all together adverts or promotion
because it will be harmful to the client or make the condition worse, or it is a risk materials for your treatments.
to others in the salon. A treatment is normally unsuitable because the client has a
medical condition which may be external and/or visible, or it may be ‘hidden’ and
discovered during the consultation.
Refer to individual practical units for full details of relevant contra-indications specific
to the treatment or service. You should refer to them prior to commencing any
treatment.
It is important that you do not treat the client because:
the disease could be contagious and there is a risk of cross-infection to both
therapist and other clients
the condition may be made worse by a treatment
there may be a reaction later, which puts the client’s health at risk.

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This is why it is essential to complete a thorough consultation, prior to any treatment

being given.
If the contra-indication is small and localised in one area, treatment may take place
with some adaptation. For example, a minor cut would be covered with a plaster.
But a larger problem, such as a leg with open, weeping eczema, would be a definite
contra-indication and further advice should be sought from the client’s GP.
Be aware that some GP’s surgeries request a small fee to cover administration costs
which must be paid by the client. The salon provides a short letter outlining the
treatments to be undertaken and the GP can just sign this. Most doctors are very
open to their patients having beauty treatments and massage, as they recognise the
health benefits – and some doctors refer clients to salons, for treatments such as
electrolysis and massage.
The cost of a permission slip is preferable to risking a reaction to drugs taken, and a
possible court case for negligence. The GP’s permission slip could then be placed in
the client’s record card so that all therapists are aware of medical problems for that
client and therefore all therapists are protected.
Anyone receiving chemotherapy or radiotherapy would be unsuitable for treatment
as would anyone with a history of deep vein thrombosis. Always check with your
Awarding Body with regard to its contra-indications policy.
Professional basics

General contra-indications
To help you remember different contra-indications, try to visualise looking from the
outside of the body and work inwards, as shown in the table opposite. What you may
see on the skin comes first, then muscles, bone, blood, and so on.

Boil Impetigo

Cold sore Wart

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Measles Chickenpox Oral thrush

Skin Muscles Bones Body systems

• Skin infections, disease or • Dysfunctional muscular • Broken bones • High or low blood pressure
disorders conditions, such as • Recent dental work, implants • Heart conditions
• Open wounds or weeping Parkinson’s disease or in the jawbone or cosmetic • Diabetes
sores multiple sclerosis surgery such as rhinoplasty • Epilepsy
• Cuts, bruising or abrasions • Loss of sensation to the area • Severe asthma
• Raised or hairy moles or • Spastic muscle conditions • High fever, colds and flu
moles with uneven edges • Dysfunction of the nervous • Hormone imbalances

Professional basics
which have bled or weep system which affects the • Any systemic disease such as
• Unknown swellings muscles, such as motor chronic liver conditions
• Recent scar tissue – do not neurone disease • Disorders of the endocrine
treat until GP approval is • Dropped muscular tone, such system affecting any of the
agreed as Bell’s palsy (recognised as glands, such as thyroid
• Varicose veins or phlebitis one side of the face being • All types of cancer
• Medicines which impair the lower than the other)
skin’s healing properties or • Recent procedures, such
increase its fragility: e.g. as Botox® injections which
Accutane given for acne freeze the facial muscles and
may cause severe dryness may impair sensation
and further treatments may • Collagen infill injections
exacerbate the condition; around the eyes or mouth
or antibiotics which can
result in oversensitivity to
sunlight and cause rashes or
pigmentation. (Refer to You
and the skin, pages 179–80,
for a full list of medications
and vitamins which affect
the skin.)

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It is very important you follow these guidelines when dealing with contra-indications:
As a therapist, it is not your place to mention specific conditions to the client,
because you are not medically trained. You can recommend that the client see
her GP, but do not name the condition, nor offer any diagnosis or cure.
It is important that the contra-indication is discovered prior to the treatment
or service starting, rather than half way through. This stops the client being
disappointed in not getting the full treatment and keeps your professionalism in
place. It will also stop the condition from spreading to others, or putting them
at risk.
Some contra-indications if they are minor will not prevent the treatment from
taking place, either because they can be covered over, or are not in the area to be
treated. A client with a bruised big toe having a facial can obviously continue with
the treatment.
Clients may be forgetful and omit to mention they have a condition, such as
high blood pressure, but may list the medication they are taking, often not
remembering what it is for. Stop the treatment until you do know what conditions
they have and ensure you get a GP’s approval for treatment in writing and the
client signs the consent form.

Contra-actions
Professional basics

A contra-action is the unfavourable reaction of a client to a treatment. Some

treatments do cause some slight reaction, which is normal and to be expected:
for example, a waxing treatment will cause the skin to go red, and there may be
some blood spotting. It is a normal reaction to the slight trauma that the skin
has undergone. However, an abnormal reaction to a treatment would be a severe
response, as shown in the diagram below.
It is up to the therapist to respond quickly to any adverse reaction that happens within
the salon, in order to minimise the problem and not make it worse. The client must
also be informed of what to look for after the treatment has finished and what action
to take at home.
Contra-actions can occur with the application of any product – even one your client
has used for years can suddenly produce a reaction not seen before.

Blistering of the skin Allergic reactions

– swelling,
irritation or hives

COMMON CONTRA-ACTIONS
TO A PRODUCT
An abnormal reaction to a treatment
can lead to unpleasant contra-actions

Irritation or redness A burning sensation

Refer to individual practical units for specific contra-actions.

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Allergies
Think about it
One common reaction to a product used within the treatment may be an allergic
reaction. Clients can develop an allergy to a product they have been using for years. During the consultation remember to
It can literally occur overnight. It may be a reaction to a food, a cleaning substance or ask your client whether she has any
an airborne droplet such as someone’s perfume. Refer to You and the skin, page 205, allergies.
for a full explanation of how an allergy occurs and how it affects the body.
Some allergies can be life-threatening and the client may go into anaphylactic shock,
a condition of extreme hypersensitivity, which is an emergency condition requiring
urgent medical attention. Symptoms include breathlessness, fever and, in extreme
cases, the person falls unconscious and the heart stops.
Clients with a severe allergy will carry an EpiPen® which administers a dose of
adrenalin to counter the effects of the allergy. Allergies to shellfish, bee stings and
nuts are very common, but it can be a reaction to any substance such as house dust,
pet hairs, and so on.
Be very careful about using creams or oils with a nut base.

Hygiene and avoiding cross-infection

Hygiene may be defined as: ‘The science concerned with the maintenance of health;
clean or healthy practices or thinking.’ So for you, as a professional therapist, hygiene

Professional basics
could be described as good practice to maintain your own health, your clients’ health
and your colleagues’ health.
However, there is no such thing as a completely sterile environment; perhaps the
closest to it would be an operating theatre within a hospital. Germs are all around
us and, while some are beneficial to humans, many of them are not. Beauty therapy
treatments demand close human contact, so care must be taken to provide the
maximum protection against cross-infection.
Expert advice on hygiene can be confusing. There have been conflicting reports in
the media regarding AIDS and hepatitis, and the resistance of some bacteria, such
as MRSA, commonly found in hospitals, to antibiotic treatment. (MRSA is a drug-
resistant strain of a very common bacterium called Staphylococcus aureus.) The most
valuable up-to-date information can be gained from your Awarding Body’s code of
ethics or practice (refer to it for more details). These guidelines have been established
after a great deal of research on behalf of the beauty industry, and are most likely to
be current.
It is important to understand the responsibilities we each have under the Health and
Safety at Work Act 1974, and under the COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous
to Health) regulations. Refer to the legislation section on pages 48–64 for extra
guidelines.

Micro-organisms
In order to understand how to maintain the highest hygiene standards it is important
to know how infection can occur. Micro-organisms are organisms that are too small to
be seen by the naked eye. These micro-organisms are ever-present in the environment
and can cause different types of infection.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Micro-organism Diseases

Bacteria Boils, impetigo, sore throats, meningitis, pneumonia, diphtheria,

tuberculosis, typhoid fever, tetanus (lock jaw), whooping cough

Viruses Common cold, flu, cold sores (Herpes simplex) warts, measles,
rubella, mumps, chicken pox, Hepatitis A, B and C, HIV

Fungal/yeast Ringworm of the foot, body, head and nails, thrush, infection to the
infections heart and lungs, which may prove fatal
Types of micro-organism and the
diseases they can cause Protozoa Diarrhoea, malaria, amoebic dysentery

Micro-organisms enter the body using any route they can:

Think about it
through damaged, broken skin
Disposable gloves
through the ears, nose, mouth and genitals
There are a wide variety of disposable
gloves on the market and therapists into hair follicles
must ensure that health and safety into the blood stream via a bite from blood-sucking insects (e.g. malaria).
legislation is adhered to, to protect
So, disease is spread by:
themselves and their clients from
cross contamination. Most Awarding direct contact with a person who has a disease or infection
Bodies also specify that gloves infection from droplets in the air, as when someone sneezes near you
Professional basics

should be worn for treatments in

indirectly – when you touch an infected item such as a towel or cotton wool.
which there is a possibility of contact
with bodily fluids and/or if the The symptoms and severity of the infection or disease will depend on the type of
skin is being pierced, for example invasion, the strength of the person’s immune system, whether it is able to defend
epilation, intimate waxing and the body, and their general health. If a person is run-down, then the micro-organisms
microdermabrasion. have more chance of multiplying rapidly. They also thrive in poor hygiene. The best
• Always buy medical-standard, ways of avoiding these are prevention – through good hygiene practices.
single-use only disposable gloves
Some of these diseases are life threatening, but many are not and can be prevented
from a reputable manufacturer and
by good hygiene. For example, protozoa can be transmitted from contaminated food
use within the expiry dates.
and water, which grow and infect the bowel causing ill health with diarrhoea.
• Gloves should be chosen to fit
snuggly on the hands. Many of these diseases are also radically reduced by vaccination. Precautions can
• Do not apply talc to the hands be taken against both Hepatitis B and tetanus – recommended for beauty therapists.
prior to use as this may cause an Most school children are given immunisation against measles, mumps and rubella,
allergic reaction. unless there are medical reasons not to have the injections. Whooping cough has
been dramatically reduced by the same method of immunisation.
• Always wash and dry hands
thoroughly before and after using Refer to Contra-indications, pages 35–38, for recognition of the common diseases
gloves. that may prevent the treatment from taking place.
• Do not use the gloves if they are
damaged, smell or have holes in
them.
• Latex gloves should be avoided
as they may cause an allergic
reaction.

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 Professional basics

Good hygiene practices

How do you maintain good hygiene practices in a beauty salon?

Client consultation Client hygiene Personal hygiene

GOOD HABITS FOR

Salon hygiene Immunisation
HYGIENE INCLUDE

Protection against possible risks Good hygiene knowledge Good hygiene practices must include
these aspects

A guide to controlling micro-organisms

Think about it
Alcohol
All good hygiene practices should be
Alcohol-based disinfectants are very good for soaking metal instruments such as
continuously carried out to ensure
small manicure equipment. The usual dilution is 70 per cent isopropyl alcohol – or
that no cross-infection takes place

Professional basics
a surgical spirit base. Once it has been used, the disinfectant should be thrown away
– starting with preparation of the
and a fresh solution made up for every client.
work area, throughout the treatment
Isopropyl alcohol is an antibacterial solvent used in many different products, from itself, through to leaving the work
aftershave to hand lotions and cleaners. It is made from propylene, which is obtained area and equipment clean and tidy
during the cracking of petroleum. It is a good cleaner, but the fumes can be an ready for the next treatment. The
irritant, so surgical spirit, commonly bought over the counter at the chemist or local client will then have total confidence
wholesale supplier, can be used instead. in the salon and it ensures you are
following all the required health and
Ammonia safety regulations.
Ammonia is commonly used as a base for trade liquids used to kill bacteria, e.g.
barbicide that is used to soak suitable instruments in salons. The drawback with using
ammonia is its strong smell!

Antibiotics
An antibiotic is a chemical substance that
destroys or inhibits the growth of micro-
organisms. Antibiotics are usually used to treat
infections that will respond well to them, such
as fungal or bacterial infections, and are given
to humans and some animals for treatment.
They can be taken as tablets, or as a cream
applied to the area, or in an injection, or, if in
hospital, they can be administered in a drip
form straight into the blood stream. They are
not available over the counter to buy. They are
only issued on prescription from a doctor.
A barbicide disinfecting jar

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Antiseptic
An antiseptic is a chemical agent which destroys or inhibits the growth of micro-
organisms on living tissues, thus helping to prevent infection when placed on to open
cuts and wounds.

Autoclave
An autoclave is a piece of equipment rather like a pressure cooker, used to sterilise
small metal equipment, such as eyebrow tweezers and manicure items. It works
by heating distilled water under pressure to a higher temperature than 100°C, so
creating an environment where germs cannot survive.
Ideally, the autoclave should heat up to 121°C for 15 minutes. There is a stacking
Medi-wipes
system of baskets in the base so that lots of small tools can be put in together, but
they should be washed and clean prior to sterilisation. If several therapists use the
autoclave at one time, be sure that the equipment is easily identifiable – perhaps
with a blob of nail varnish, otherwise you will not know which tools belong to
whom! The autoclave is most suitable for small metal tools. Refer to individual
manufacturer’s instructions for use.

My story
Cleaning your tools
Professional basics

Hi, my name is Anya. We were learning pedicures and had to swap partners with
someone we had never worked with before. Unfortunately, although the tutor
told everyone to make sure they followed the correct sterilisation procedures, the
student didn’t sterilise her equipment properly, and I’m fairly certain I got athlete’s
foot from her tools – I didn’t see her put them in the autoclave, but I couldn’t
prove anything. I told my tutor about it, and she reminded everyone in the group
how important it is to clean and sterilise tools properly. Too late for me though!

Bactericide
This is a chemical that kills bacteria but not necessarily the spores, so reproduction
may still take place. It can also be called biocide, fungicide, virucide or sporicide.

Chlorhexidine
Trade names for chlorhexidine include Savlon and Hibitane. Chlorhexidine is widely
used for skin and surface cleaning and some sunbed canopies. Check individual
manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning.

Detergent
A detergent is a synthetic cleaning agent that removes all impurities from a surface
by reacting with grease and suspended particles, including bacteria and other micro-
organisms. Detergents need to be used with water but are ideal for cleansing large
surface areas.

Disinfectant
This is a chemical that kills micro-organisms but not spores – most commonly used
to wash surfaces and to clean drains. Disinfectants can only work against bacteria
and fungi. They reduce the number of organisms, minimising the risk of infection. In
medicine, disinfectants (e.g. Triclosan) are used to clean unbroken skin.

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Hypochlorous acid is a weak unstable acid, occurring only in solution, which can
be used as a bleach and disinfectant. Products containing sodium or calcium
hypochlorite can be used on large surfaces, such as floors and walls, as they are
relatively inexpensive to buy. They can however be corrosive and are not suitable for
soaking metal instruments or applying directly on to the skin.

Phenol compounds
Phenol compounds are ideal for large areas that need cleaning, but phenol does have
a chlorine base and should not be used on the skin. It is used in industrial cleaning
preparations and the old-fashioned carbolic soap.

Sanitation
Sanitation is a generic term relating to health and the measures for the protection of
health, that is to be free of dirt and germs, and to be hygienic. The word comes from
the Latin sanitas, meaning health.

Sterilisation
Sterilisation is the complete destruction of all living micro-organisms and their spores.

Surgical spirit
Surgical spirit is widely used and easily available from chemists. It can be used for
skin cleansing, and to remove grease on the skin. Surgical spirit comes in varying

Professional basics
strengths of dilution. A 70 per cent alcohol base concentration is acceptable for
cleansing.

Ultraviolet boxes
Some salons use an ultraviolet (UV) light box to destroy bacteria. UV rays are
generated from a quartz mercury vapour lamp (similar to a mini sunbed) with a low
rate of penetration. The tools have to be thoroughly clean and dry before they go into
An ultraviolet box can be used to
the box, otherwise germs will cling to the dirt or dead skin cells on the surface and
sterilse small tools
form a barrier preventing sterilisation from fully taking place. The tools also need to
be turned around after 15 minutes because the rays only clean the surfaces of the
tools. Only metal tools such as cuticle nippers are suitable for UV sterilisation and, of
For your portfolio
course, once you touch them taking them out of the box, they are no longer sterile.
Investigate the recommendations
UV rays are harmful to the eyes, so the box should be switched off before you open it.
of beauty wholesalers and suppliers
UV bulbs have a limited life, so a log of usage should be kept and the bulbs replaced for cleaning and sterilisation
when recommended by the manufacturer. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions. products. Look at the advantages/
There are a great many commercial products on the market for cleaning and disadvantages of each. Which is the
sterilisation – with lots of different trade names. This is merely a general guide. most effective? Which has the most
Please consult the manufacturer’s instructions for each individual piece of equipment. pleasant smell? Which is the best
Most companies have their own particular favourites that they recommend. value for money? Which is the most
versatile and can be used on lots of
surfaces? Which ones would you use
Think about it
if you had your own salon?
Germs and disease can be found in all sorts of unlikely places. Even a cracked cup will
contain germs, so if you give the client coffee in a chipped mug, or water in a cracked Use the internet to research advice
glass, you are not upholding good hygiene practices. Always dispose of chipped or on cleaning and sterilisation, e.g. the
cracked cups/mugs/glassware. Health and Safety Executive, your
Awarding Body and Habia websites.

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Your personal hygiene

Always wash your hands – ideally with bactericidal gel – before and after every
treatment.
Wear disposable gloves for treatments if there is a possibility of an exchange of
body fluids, e.g. waxing.
Wear protective clothing for protection and to ensure a professional appearance,
e.g. an apron for waxing.
Cover cuts or broken skin with a waterproof plaster.
Keep nails short and scrub under them with a nail brush.
Thorough handwashing is essential to Do not come into work if you know you have an infection or disease likely to put
good hygiene anyone else at risk, e.g. impetigo.
Wash hands thoroughly after every visit to the toilet.
Follow the guidelines given in the section on professional presentation (pages
12–15) for clean uniform, etc.
Attend training programmes about hygiene and the use of sterilising equipment.
Do not use equipment that is cracked or broken, as germs will be present. This
includes chipped cups, plates or glasses.

Salon hygiene
 Sanitise used equipment as fully as possible. This means
Professional basics

following the manufacturer’s instructions for individual

equipment, such as using the recommended cleaner for
make-up brushes so that the bristles do not fall out. Some
cleaners will dissolve the glue that holds them in place.
 Tools should always be washed in hot, soapy water, rinsed
well and dried thoroughly, before using a sterilising fluid or a
UV box.
 Invest time and correct training in the use of sterilisation
equipment, such as an autoclave or sanitising unit.
 Clean the treatment area or room thoroughly. Clean it daily
and also wipe generally after each treatment has taken place.
There are many preparations on the market for use on walls,
floors and work surfaces, trolleys and couch and stool.
 All work surfaces should be cleaned regularly with hot water
and detergent.
 Couch roll and towels can be used as a barrier between
blankets and the clients – they can then be disposed of, and
fresh ones put on for each client.
 Tissues tucked into the headband or turban can be disposed
of after use, so keeping the headband/turban looking fresh.
 Towels should be washed after use – so your salon needs to
invest in plenty of towels to ensure you do not run out.

An autoclave can be used to sterilse metal instruments by

using a high temperature to kill bacteria

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 Professional basics

The same applies to towelling robes for clients. Big fluffy robes are very
luxurious, but the image would soon be spoilt if dirty ones were given to clients.
Soft cotton robes are easier to wash and keep clean.
When carrying out a facial and wrapping the client up in blankets, for hygiene
purposes use a cotton sheet as a barrier between the blanket and the client. The
sheet can be washed on a boil wash, therefore washing and drying times and
costs are saved as you do not have to keep drying heavy blankets. Some salons
use duvets to cover clients and the covers can be easily replaced.
Disposable brushes for applying make-up will prevent cross-infection from lips
and eyes.
Make-up pencils should be wiped clean with spirit and re-sharpened to get rid of
any contamination.
Powder eye shadows and blushers need to be scraped on to a palette and then
applied to the client, to avoid contamination.
Creams and oils need to be decanted into a smaller bowl, using a spatula, and
any excess should be thrown away. Never pour back into the original container
any product that has been in contact with your hands or the client. In order to be
cost-effective, be careful not to pour out too much, as it may be wasted.
Disposable spatulas should be used for waxing, that is one use from pot to client,
to avoid contamination.

Professional basics
Client hygiene
It is a good idea to have some form of notice in the reception area asking clients
Think about it
to inform staff if they are suffering from any contagious diseases.
Always carry out a full consultation to discover any contra-indications. Most commercial washing powder
manufacturers now make a washing
Always perform a physical check of the area to be treated for infection, etc.
powder which is antiseptic/bacterial
Do not treat if any unrecognised problems are present. at a 40-degree wash – use it for all
Ask the client to sign the declaration on the record card stating that all medical linens and you will be safeguarding
and other information is correct to date, to avoid possible repercussions later. the clients’ hygiene.

Before you start, always wipe the area to be treated with the appropriate lotion,
e.g. surgical spirit, Hibitane or the recommended choice of your establishment.
Provide all possible protection for the client and insist that clients use the
recommended procedure, e.g. treading on the couch roll with bare feet to avoid
touching the floor surface.
Discourage the client from having a treatment if she has the beginnings of an
illness – she may really want the treatment but spreading a cold or flu to you
and to other clients and therapists is not sensible.

A good washing powder keeps

laundry disinfected and is eco-friendly
in that it works at low temperature

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy
Professional basics

Make sure the client feels secure and

relaxed before you start

Client modesty
Whatever treatment your client is having, remember to preserve her modesty and
dignity. This is especially important on the first treatment, as the client may be very
unsure of the procedures.
 Explain fully to clients how they will be positioned and how much clothing
they will need to take off – a facial would not require the removal of the lower
garments, but a wax treatment would. Make sure clients understand this.
 Always allow clients to get undressed and into a robe in privacy behind the
curtains.
 Cocoon the client in a blanket and towels, with couch roll if required for
treatment, and only expose the area of the body being treated. This will not only
ensure the client is cosy and secure, but will also preserve modesty and provide
warmth.
 Provide full instructions and a modesty towel if carrying out a more intimate
treatment, such as a bikini wax. Ask the client to place protective couch roll in
the panty line rather than just assuming she won’t mind you doing it.
 Ensure your working area or cubicle is private and that others are not able to see
in. No one having a bikini or leg wax wants to feel that they can be seen by the
general public. Even a facial is not a very relaxing treatment if the client feels
exposed.

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 Professional basics

 Respect clients’ modesty by keeping personal details, information and record

Think about it
cards confidential and private. It is a privilege to be a party to certain information
– do not abuse the clients’ trust by sharing information with others unless it is It is important to give the client
necessary for a professional referral. aftercare advice on hygiene
practices to be carried out following
 Allow the client time and personal space to dress and prepare to meet the
treatments such as comedone or
outside world after the treatment. Do not pull back the curtains and tell her to
milia extraction, waxing or eyebrow
get up as your next client is waiting – this is very bad practice. shaping where there may be blood
 Finally, treat your client as you yourself would wish to be treated – with dignity, spotting. There is a risk of infection
respect and as a valued customer. occurring if the client does not follow
simple hygiene rules such as keeping
Treatment and client expectations the area clean, covering it with a
plaster and avoiding picking at
It is important to explain the treatment thoroughly to the client. It is equally the skin.
important that the client understands what the treatment involves. This will help
to ensure client satisfaction, avoid misunderstandings, dispel any unrealistic
expectations and give the client confidence in the salon and the therapist.
Honesty between therapist and client is part of the ethical conduct that is expected
of all beauty therapists in order to maintain high professional standards. The table
below gives some examples of unrealistic and realistic expectations.

Treatment aim True False

Professional basics
Waxing is a permanent method of hair removal 3

Regular waxing makes the hair grow weaker 3

All the hairs grow back at the same time. 3

The hairs grow back feeling stubbly and spiky. 3

Waxing does not hurt. 3

Waxing lasts for 4–6 weeks depending upon your hair growth. 3

As the blood supply to the hairs is stimulated when waxing, it is 3

possible the hair will grow back slightly thicker.

Waxing does not change the hair colour. 3

Shaving causes a blunt end to the hair shaft and it feels spiky, but 3
waxing allows the hair shaft to grow back with a tapered end so it
still feels smooth.

Tinting makes the eyelashes thicker and looks like mascara has been 3
applied.

Tinting the eyelashes is permanent – you never have to do it again. 3

Regular facials makes the skin grow older faster. 3

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The client must also be aware of:

Think about it
the time involved in a treatment
A satisfied customer will return and
the total cost of the treatment or course of treatments
will also tell everyone else about
how good their salon experience the position she will be in – on the couch, seated, etc.
was – word-of-mouth advertising the expected outcomes
is invaluable and free! A good
the length of time the treatment should last
reputation starts with positive
feedback and grows from there. the possible contra-actions to the treatment
the aftercare and home care for the treatment
Be truthful with your clients and they
will always respect and trust you. the cost of items that may be purchased
the cost of maintenance, e.g. for artificial nail structures
how often the treatment should be given for maximum effect
the reasons for a sensitivity test, consultation and record cards.
The entire list above has a part to play in creating the complete picture for the client,
so that the therapist gains the client’s full trust and confidence.

You, your client and the law

In this outcome you will learn about:
Professional basics

• legislation • independent regulators

• local by-laws • industry codes of practice
Key terms • insurance • salon guidelines.

Legislation – laws passed by There are many regulations and lots of legislation covering you and your work in the
parliament. salon. Any person dealing with members of the public and working with other people
has to be aware of the law, and how to use it to be safe. You do not need to know all
the regulations in detail, but you do need to know what your responsibilities are.

Legislation
All businesses are covered by laws as set down by the government in Acts of
Parliament. These Acts of Parliament are continually being updated to fit into modern
Think about it society, so you will find that Acts have dates after their title stating when they were
updated, such as Trade Descriptions Act 1968 (amended 1987).
None of us can get away with
claiming ignorance about the law. These Acts are the law of the land. Breaking or ignoring them is therefore an offence,
We should each take responsibility and can lead to punishment. You could be fined, your business could be closed or
for our deeds and actions and you could go to prison.
must face the consequences if we
As well as UK law, there is European Union law to follow, too. The European Union
act recklessly or endanger others.
(EU) is made up of 27 countries, including the UK, which joined the EU in 1993.
Insurance cover may be null and void
if you are proven to be negligent or
EU laws are decided in Brussels, where the European courts are based, and all EU
if legislation or establishment rules member states follow the same legislation.
have been broken or ignored. An In order to be fully competent in employment it is essential that you have a sound
accident or injury to others could be knowledge of the basis of consumer protection and health and safety legislation. You
the result with serious implications to need to understand how these laws protect you, your colleagues and your clients.
you personally and your employers. The specific legislation that you need to know is given on the following pages.

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 Professional basics

Health and Safety at Work Act 1974

This requires all employers to provide systems
of work that are, as far as is reasonably Health
H h and Sa
Safety Law
practicable, safe and without risk to health.
What you need to know
The employer’s duty is to provide safe:
All workers have a right to work in places where risks to their health and safety are properly
premises – a safe place to work controlled. Health and safety is about stopping you getting hurt at work or ill through work.
Your employer is responsible for health and safety, but you must help.
systems and equipment
storage and transport of substances and
material
access to the workplace exits
practices in the workplace.
What employers What you If there’s a
The employer’s duty to other persons not must do for you must do problem
in employment includes not exposing them
to health and safety risks – this includes 1 Decide what could harm you
in your job and the precautions
to stop it. This is part of risk
6 Provide toilets, washing facilities
and drinking water. 1 Follow the training you have
received when using any
work items your employer
1 If you are worried about health
and safety in your workplace,
talk to your employer,

contractors, employees, and self-employed

assessment.
7 Provide adequate first-aid
facilities.
has given you. supervisor, or health and safety
representative.

2 In a way you can understand,

explain how risks will be
8 Report injuries, diseases and 2 Take reasonable care of your
own and other people’s health
2 You can also look at our website
people. controlled and tell you who
is responsible for this.
dangerous incidents at work to
our Incident Contact Centre:
and safety. for general information about
health and safety at work.

3 Consult and work with you 0845 300 9923 3 Co-operate with your employer
on health and safety.
3 If, after talking with your
The employee has a responsibility to: and your health and safety employer, you are still worried,
representatives in protecting
everyone from harm in
the workplace.
9 Have insurance that covers you
in case you get hurt at work
or ill through work. Display a
4 Tell someone (your employer,
supervisor, or health and safety
representative) if you think the
phone our Infoline. We can
put you in touch with the local
enforcing authority for health

take care during time at work to avoid hard copy or electronic copy of work or inadequate precautions and safety and the Employment

4 Free of charge, give you the the current insurance certificate are putting anyone’s health and Medical Advisory Service. You

Professional basics
health and safety training you where you can easily read it. safety at serious risk. don’t have to give your name.
personal injury need to do your job.
HSE Infoline:

5 Free of charge, provide you with 10 Work with any other employers
or contractors sharing the
0845 345 0055
assist the employer in meeting requirements any equipment and protective
clothing you need, and ensure
it is properly looked after.
workplace or providing
employees (such as agency
workers), so that everyone’s
HSE website:

www.hse.gov.uk
under the Health and Safety at Work Act health and safety is protected.

Your health and safety representatives: Fire safety

not misuse or change anything that has You can get advice on fire safety
from the Fire and Rescue Services

been provided for safety.

or your workplace fire officer.

Other health and safety contacts: Employment rights

Find out more about your
employment rights at:
The employee has a duty to herself/himself, to www.direct.gov.uk
other employees, and to the public.
The Act allows various regulations to be made, ) 3 " .     

which control the workplace. It also covers self- Health and Safety Executive
© Crown copyright 2009 Published by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE).
This product is biodegradable. The hologram shows this is a genuine HSE product.

employed persons who work alone, away from

The information in this poster is available in a number of formats.
ISBN 978 0 7176 6339 2 04/09 Price £10.22 + VAT   

the employer’s premises.

(Source: Health and Safety Executive)

Employers’ responsibilities Shared responsibilities Employees’ responsibilities

Planning safety and security Safety of all individuals in the workplace Correct use of systems and procedures

Providing information about safety and Safety of the working environment Reporting flaws or gaps in the system or
security establishment procedures

Updating systems and procedures with five Never knowingly endangering anyone Taking reasonable care of themselves and
or more employees others

Regular training and information for all Following all Health and Safety at Work Cooperating with employers in the
staff Act directives discharge of their obligations

Health and safety responsibilities

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

In 1992 EU directives updated legislation on health and safety management and

widened the existing acts. These came into force in 1993. There are six main areas:
provision and use of work equipment
manual handling operations
workplace health, safety and welfare
personal protective equipment at work
health and safety (display screen equipment)
management of health and safety at work.
Some provisions of the EU directives are:
the protection of non-smokers from tobacco smoke
the provision of rest facilities for pregnant and nursing mothers
safe cleaning of windows.

The Management of Health and Safety at Work Regulations

1999
These regulations place responsibility firmly on the employer to make significant risk
assessments for the health and safety of employees and others working in the salon,
record any significant findings, and instruct and train employees in the correct way
to ensure all are protected. Codes of practice and systems need to be monitored,
Professional basics

reviewed and adjusted to suit. All employees should be informed of these, and a
statutory poster for health and safety displayed in the workplace.
The regulations cover a great deal of information for employers including:
risk assessment
principles of prevention to be applied
health and safety arrangements
health surveillance
health and safety assistance
procedures for serious and imminent danger and dangerous areas
contact with external services
information for employees
cooperation and coordination
persons working in host employers or self-employed person undertaking work
capability and training
employer’s duties
temporary workers
risk assessments for new or expectant mothers
protection of young persons
exception certificates
provisions of liability
exclusion of civil liberties
extension out of Great Britain
amendments to the Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations 1981.

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 Professional basics

Employment Rights Act 1996

This Act covers all aspects of an employee’s terms and conditions after they have
been employed for a month or more. After two months’ employment, an employee
should have a written contract with their conditions of work including:
details of payment, along with commission and incentives
hours of work and expected holiday entitlement
the amount of notice an employee is expected to give
the amount of notice the employer expects the employee to give
the date the employment started
a full job description
the employee’s workplace location.
If an employee does not receive a contract of employment in writing, they can apply
to an industrial tribunal and the employer is obliged by law to provide one.

The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations 1992

The employer should ensure the workplace complies with the requirements of these
regulations by:
maintaining the workplace and all equipment and systems used there
ensuring adequate ventilation

Professional basics
keeping the workplace at a reasonable temperature (minimum 16°C)
making sure employees have sufficient light to work comfortably
keeping the workplace clean and tidy
ensuring employees have enough space to work comfortably
keeping floor and ‘traffic routes’ in a reasonable condition (no holes, slopes or
uneven surfaces)
ensuring workstations and seating are suitable
providing suitable washing and toilet facilities (with soap and a means of drying
hands)
making sure employees have accommodation for clothing (worn at work) and
changing facilities
providing employees with facilities for resting and eating (if meals are to be eaten
on the premises)
providing clean drinking water and cups
regularly removing waste materials Think about it
keeping employees safe from falling objects In most settings separate toilet
making sure all doors and gates are suitably constructed and fitted with any facilities must be available for men
necessary safety devices and women. However, in small,
making sure windows are protected against breakage and signs (or similar) are mostly female salons, men and
incorporated where there is a danger of someone walking into them women can use the same facilities as
long as the toilet is a separate cubicle
making sure escalators and moving walkways have safety devices fitted so they
and it can be locked. In larger health
can be stopped in an emergency.
clubs and spas the toilet and locker
facilities would be separate.

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(For further information on the safe disposal of waste products, refer to Unit G20
Make sure your actions reduce risks to health and safety, pages 87–104.)

Heat stress
The Health and Safety Executive draws attention to heat stress at work. The best
working temperature in beauty therapy is between 15.5 and 20°C.
Humidity (the amount of moisture in the air) should be within the range of 30 to 70
per cent, although this will vary if your salon has a sauna and steam area. These
should be in a well-ventilated area away from the main workrooms, while still being
accessible to clients. There should also be sufficient air exchange and air movement,
which must be increased in special circumstances, such as chemical usage.
Treatment rooms used for nail art, aromatherapy, bleaching or eyelash perming will
need specialist ventilation methods.

Physical effects Psychological effects  Mechanical ventilation – extractor fans, which can be
adjusted at various speeds.
Headaches Irritability
Sweating Aggressive behaviour  Natural ventilation – open windows are fine, but be
Palpitations Fatigue – resulting in mistakes being made careful of a draught on the client.
Dizziness Lethargy  Air-conditioned ventilation – passing air over filters and
Nausea, vomiting Lack of concentration coolers brings about the desired condition, but of course
Feeling faint this is the most expensive method!
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The effects of heat stress A build-up of fumes, or of strong smells (for example from manicure preparations),
will cause both physical and psychological problems, which affect not only clients
but staff, too!

The Manual Handling Operations Regulations 1992

Safe lifting procedures must The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) has drawn attention to skeletal and muscular
be followed
disorders caused by manual handling and lifting, repetitive strain disorders and
unsuitable posture causing low back pain. The regulations require certain measures to
be taken to avoid these types of injuries occurring.
Think of all the situations that may apply in the salon:
stock unpacking and storage – lifting heavy objects
couch height adjustable for individual therapists
chairs or stools used in the treatment rooms
trolley height

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reception desk and chair

Think about it
rotation of job roles so that the therapist is not in the same position for every
It is worth considering all of these
treatment
factors when purchasing equipment,
height and size of nail art desk. as you then have to work with the
The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992 consequences!

Every employer and self-employed person must ensure that suitable personal When purchasing a couch for home
protective equipment is provided both for themselves and for their employees in or mobile use, it is worth pretending
situations where they may be exposed to a risk to their health or safety while at work. to carry out a facial, complete with
This is particularly relevant to waxing (refer to Unit B6 Carry out waxing services, client lying on the couch, to find the
page 407) and where there is a risk of contamination by body fluids (see also right height. Working at a couch at
Environmental Protection Act 1990, The Controlled Waste Regulations 1992 and the wrong height is very bad for the
The Special Waste Regulations 1996 below). back in the long term, and may cause
considerable discomfort.

Protective clothing
This covers both equipment and protective clothing provisions to ensure safety for all
those in the workplace. The regulations also provide that workplace personnel must
have appropriate training in equipment use. Protective clothing, such as white overalls
for work wear, ensures cleanliness, freshness, and professionalism. For certain
treatments it may be advisable to wear extra disposable coverings. The client’s
clothing must also be protected.

Professional basics
Think about it
Research what your Awarding Body states about protective clothing. It may invalidate
your insurance if you do not follow the rules – and it may ruin your own clothing if tint
or wax were to be spilt on your uniform or trousers, for example.

Protection against infectious diseases

It is essential to protect against all diseases that are carried in the blood or tissue
fluids. Protective gloves should be worn whenever there is a possibility of blood or
tissue fluid being passed from one person to another, that is through an open cut or
broken skin. Two specific infectious diseases to mention are:
Always use protective clothing for
AIDS (Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome) – this disease is caused by HIV hygiene and good client care
(Human Immunodeficiency Virus). The virus is transmitted through body tissue.
Most people are aware of AIDS because of media coverage. The virus attacks the
body’s immune system, and therefore carries a strong risk of secondary infection,
such as pneumonia, which could be life threatening. As there is no known cure,
prevention through protection is vital.
Hepatitis variants (A, B and C) – hepatitis is an inflammation of the liver. It
is caused by a very strong virus transmitted through blood and tissue fluids.
This can survive outside the body, and can make a person very ill indeed; it can
even be fatal. The most serious form is Hepatitis B and you can be immunised
against this disease by a GP. For those who can prove they need this protection
for their employment there is no cost involved. Most training establishments will
recommend this.
Think about it
Always cover cuts with a plaster to
prevent cross-infection.

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The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH)

Regulations 2002
The COSHH Regulations require employers to control exposure to substances that are
hazardous to health in the workplace. Exposure can be prevented or reduced by:
finding out what the health hazards are
deciding how to prevent harm to health by carrying out a risk assessment
providing control measures to reduce harm to health
making sure they are used
keeping all control measures in good working order
providing information, instruction and training for employees and others
providing monitoring and health surveillance in appropriate cases
For your portfolio control exposure to hazardous substances in the workplace
Take a look at ‘Working with planning for emergencies.
substances hazardous to health: Most products used in the salon are perfectly safe, but some products could become
What you need to know about
hazardous under certain conditions or if used inappropriately. All salons should be
COSHH’ available on the HSE
aware of how to use and store these products.
website. Look also at the HSE’s
COSHH essentials web tool. Employers are responsible for assessing the risks from hazardous substances and
must decide upon an action to reduce those risks. Proper training should be given and
Professional basics

employees should always follow safety guidelines and take the precautions identified
by the employer.
The COSHH regulations require that the containers of hazardous substances are
labelled with warning symbols. These symbols are shown opposite.
Here are some examples of potential hazards.
Dust Toxic Flammable Highly flammable substances, such as solvents, nail varnish remover or alcohol
steriliser, are hazardous because their fumes will ignite if exposed to a naked
flame.
Explosive materials, such as hairspray, air freshener or other pressurised cans, are
also highly flammable and will explode with force if placed in heat, such as an
Irritant Corrosive Oxidising open fire, or even on top of a hot radiator.
agent
Chemicals can cause severe reactions and skin damage – if chemicals are
Symbols showing types of hazardous
substances misused, vomiting, respiratory problems, and burning could be the result.

COSHH precautions
Employers must, by law, identify, list and assess in writing any substance in the
workplace. This applies not only to products used for treatments in the salon but also
to products that are used in cleaning such as bleach or polish. Potentially hazardous
substances must be given a hazard rating, or risk assessment, even if it is zero.
It is essential that you read all of the COSHH sheets used in the salon, and be safe:
follow what they say, never abuse manufacturers’ instructions and attend regular
staff training for product use. You never know when you might need it!

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Health Act 2006

Think about it
This law has been introduced to protect employees and the public from the harmful
• M
 anufacturers have to supply a
effects of ‘second-hand’ smoke inhalation (passive smoking). Below is a summary of
COSHH sheet containing product
its key points.
data for each product. The COSHH
From 1 July 2007 it has been against the law to smoke in virtually all enclosed sheets should be kept together in
and substantially enclosed public places and workplaces. a central folder in the salon so that
Public transport and work vehicles used by more than one person should be everyone can refer to them.
smoke-free. • A
 reaction can happen if a client
has recently used a chemical
Non-smoking signs should be displayed in all smoke-free premises and vehicles.
at home and it reacts with the
Staff smoking rooms and indoor smoking areas are no longer allowed, so anyone products used in the salon, e.g.
wanting to smoke will have to go outside. home hair colours.
Managers of smoke-free premises and vehicles have legal responsibility to • C
 lients on long-term medication
prevent people from smoking. are more likely to have a reaction.
Anyone not complying with the smoke-free law is committing an offence and can Triggers include hormone
be issued with a fixed penalty notice – up to a maximum of £200 if prosecuted replacement therapy, the
and convicted by a court. contraceptive pill, heart and blood
pressure medication – this should
Failure to display non-smoking signs carries a fixed penalty of £200, or a
be recorded on the client’s
maximum fine of £1000 if prosecuted and convicted by a court.
record card.
Failing to prevent smoking in a smoke-free place has a maximum fine of £2500.

Professional basics
The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
These relate to the use and maintenance of gas appliances. You may think that
this does not apply to you as a therapist, but read on! The Gas Safety (Rights of
Entry Regulations) 1996 & 2004 give gas and Health and Safety Executive (HSE)
inspectors the right to enter premises and order the disconnection of any dangerous
appliances. The inspectors themselves are not usually trained gas fitters, so they
will instruct you to contact your local service engineer. Gas fumes are silent, with no
smell, and deadly.

The Fire Precautions (Workplace) Regulations 1997 (as amended

1999)
The Fire Precautions (Workplace) Regulations bring together existing health and safety
and fire legislation to form a set of dedicated fire regulations which aim to achieve a
risk appropriate standard of fire safety for persons in the workplace.
The regulations were amended in 1999 in order to confirm the concept of employers
having unconditional responsibility for the safety of employees. As a result, most
workplaces are now subject to the legal requirements of the above regulations. They
require small business owners to adequately assess the fire risks associated with
their work activities and to decide what needs to be done to control these risks. The
steps to be taken for a fire risk assessment are similar to those taken for general risk
assessments, although the business also has a general duty to the public (refer to
Unit G20 Make sure your actions reduce risks to health and safety, page 71).
Staff need to be aware of the procedures involved in the event of a fire, preferably
through the displaying of a notice. It is recommended that you have some form of
fire-fighting equipment – even if it is just a fire blanket. Contact the fire authority in
your area, who will be happy to assist you.

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The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998

The key points here are to ensure that all equipment at work is properly maintained,
fit for purpose and in a good state of repair, as explained below.

Suitability of equipment
Employers must ensure that equipment is suitable for the purpose for which it is
used or provided. When selecting equipment, they need to be aware of the working
conditions and the risks to health and safety in the premises in which the work
equipment is to be used and any additional risk posed by the use of the equipment.

Maintenance
Equipment must be maintained in efficient working order and good repair. Wherever
possible, maintenance should take place when equipment is switched off to avoid
risks to the person’s health and safety; if maintenance can only take place when the
equipment is switched on, precautions should be taken to protect the person carrying
out the work. Where equipment has a maintenance log, this must be kept up to date.

Inspection
Where the safety of equipment depends on the installation conditions, it must
be inspected after installation and before being put into service for the first time;
or after assembly at a new site or in a new location, to ensure that it has been
Professional basics

installed correctly and is safe to operate. This is also to ensure that health and safety
conditions are maintained and that any wear and tear is detected and remedied in
good time. Inspections that take place under this regulation should be recorded and
kept until the next inspection takes place and is recorded.
Equipment should be used only for the purposes of the employer’s business, and
if equipment is obtained from another business, it should be accompanied by an
inspection certificate.

Specific risks
Where the use of equipment is likely to involve a specific risk to health or safety,
the equipment must only be used by staff trained to operate it. Where appropriate,
employers need to provide training.
Any repairs, modifications, maintenance or servicing should only be carried out by a
competent person.

Information and instructions

Staff operating equipment must be provided with adequate health and safety
information and, where appropriate, written instructions on how to use it. This also
applies to employees who supervise or manage the use of equipment.

Training
For health and safety reasons, staff should be given adequate training to operate
equipment, including training in the methods which may be adopted when using
the equipment, any risks involved and precautions to be taken. This also applies to
employees who supervise or manage the use of equipment.

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Protection against specified hazards

Employers are responsible for taking measures to ensure that staff using equipment
should be protected from hazards that might endanger their health and safety. If it is
not possible to prevent the risk, then it needs to be adequately controlled.

High or very low temperature

Where equipment, or any article or substance produced, used or stored in work
equipment, is at a high or very low temperature, it needs to be protected so as to
prevent injury to any person by burn, scald or sear.

Controls for starting equipment

Where appropriate, equipment should be provided with one or more controls for the
purposes of starting it (including restarting after a stoppage for any reason).

Stability
Equipment should be stabilised by clamping, or another method, where necessary for
health or safety purposes.

Lighting
The work area where equipment is to be used should have suitable and sufficient
lighting.

Professional basics
The Electricity at Work Regulations 1989
These regulations affect the use of electrical equipment in every salon, clinic or
health club. Regulation 4 of the Act states: ‘All electrical equipment must be
regularly checked for electrical safety.’ In a busy salon this may be every six months.
The check must be carried out by a ‘competent person’, preferably a qualified
electrician. All checks must be recorded in a book kept for this purpose only.
Types of equipment to be checked include:
wax heaters foot spas that plug in
autoclaves paraffin wax heaters
thermal boots fast nail UV dryer boxes.
infrared lamps
A ‘competent person’ need not be a qualified electrician, but must be capable of
attending to basic safety checks. Manufacturers often supply their own technical staff
to attend to safety checks.

PAT Testing (Portable Appliance Testing)

All companies and organisations should comply with the Electricity at Work
Regulations. Each electrical appliance should be comprehensively tested to meet the
exacting requirements of the IEE code of practice for In-Service Inspection and Testing
of Electrical Equipment.
Ideally, the electrician or competent person should be a member of both NICEIC and
NAPIT (National Association of Professional Inspectors and Testers). All engineers
should undertake a NAPIT technical assessment and be subject to regular inspection
and monitoring of their work and records.

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All electrical equipment to be tested has to be disconnected from the mains supply.
This may be inconvenient so ideally it should be carried out of normal salon hours.
If electrical apparatus is found to be faulty, the equipment must be withdrawn from
service and repaired. An electrical safety record book should be used to record dates,
the nature of the repair and by whom it was done. It should also contain a list of
tests carried out on the equipment under inspection, the results of those tests, and be
signed by the competent person who carried them out.
This is essential for public liability insurance purposes and in case of legal action
being taken for accidents due to negligence.

The Pressure Systems and Transportable Gas Containers

Regulations 1989
Steam sterilising autoclaves fall under this Act. You are required to have a written
scheme of examination carried out or certified by a competent person.

Environmental Protection Act 1990

The Controlled Waste Regulations 1992 (as amended in 1993)
The Special Waste Regulations 1996 (as amended)
These Acts require all clinical waste to be kept apart from general waste and to be
disposed of to a licensed incinerator or landfill site, by a licensed company. This
includes:
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waste which consists wholly or partly of animal or human tissue

blood or other body fluids
swabs or dressings
syringes or needles.

The Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences

Regulations (RIDDOR) 1995
These regulations cover the recording and reporting of any serious accidents and
conditions to the local environmental health officer, whose remit covers beauty
therapy and hairdressing salons. This officer will investigate the accident and make
sure that the salon prevents the accident from happening again in the future. The
officer can also assess the risk factors in each instance.
An accident or death at work must be reported within ten days. If the accident does
not require a hospital visit, but the person is absent from work for more than three
days, a report still needs to be made.
If an employee reports a work-related disease, a report must be sent: a work-related
disease could include occupational dermatitis, asthma caused through work or even
hepatitis. Accidents as a result of violence or an attack by another person must be
reported. A car accident when on company business is reportable in the same way as
an accident at work.
A dangerous occurrence in which no one was actually injured must also be reported:
for example, if the ceiling of the salon collapses overnight.
If you are a mobile therapist working in someone’s home and you have an accident
yourself or you injure the client you must report it.

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The Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations

1992 (amended 2002)
These regulations implement an EU Directive and were amended in 2002. They
require employers to minimise the risks in visual display unit (VDU) work by ensuring
that workplaces and jobs are well designed with specific thought given to position of
the monitor and height of chair in relation to how the workplace station is set up.
There is no the difference between a VDU, a VDT, a monitor and display screen
equipment (DSE). All these terms mean the same thing: a display screen, usually
forming part of a computer and showing text, numbers or graphics. Some users may
get aches and pains in their hands, wrists, arms, neck, shoulders or back, especially
after long periods of uninterrupted VDU work. Repetitive strain injury (RSI) is the term
used to refer to these aches, pains and disorders, but can be misleading as it means
different things to different people. A better medical name for this group of conditions
is ‘upper limb disorders’. Usually these disorders do not last, but in a few cases they
may become persistent or even disabling.
Many salons now use computers for
Problems can often be avoided by good workplace design, so that you can work bookings and stock taking – ensure it
comfortably, and by good working practices (like taking frequent short breaks from the is set up correctly for good health and
VDU). Prevention is easiest if action is taken early, before the problem has become safety
serious.
Extensive research has found no evidence that VDUs can cause disease or permanent

Professional basics
damage to eyes. But long spells of VDU work can lead to tired eyes and discomfort.

Infrequent screen breaks Screen glare Poor posture

VDU WORK CAN CAUSE

Work-related stress
HEADACHES, DUE TO

A need for different Poor image Anxiety about

spectacles quality new technology

Once the employer recognises these considerations to the positioning of screens, any
problems can be easily put right. People who suffer from photo-sensitive epilepsy and
are susceptible to flickering lights and striped patterns may be affected by the use of
VDUs in some circumstances.
Employers have to analyse workstations, and assess and reduce risks. They should
look at:
the whole workstation including equipment, furniture, and the work environment –
workstations need to meet minimum requirements
the job being done
any special needs of individual staff
planning work so there are breaks or changes of activity
arranging eye tests, on request, and provide spectacles if special ones are needed

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providing health and safety training and information, so that employees can use
their VDU and workstation safely, and know how to make best use of it to avoid
health problems, e.g. by adjusting the chair.

Employers’ Liability (Compulsory Insurance) Act 1969

Employers and self-employed persons must by law hold employer’s liability
insurance. This will reimburse them against any legal liability to pay compensation
to employees for bodily injury, illness or disease caused during the course of their
employment.
Employers must insure for at least £2 million per claim, but check with your
own insurance company. Also follow the recommendations of your professional
association.
It is worth remembering the following points.
A legal claim made against your salon could result in very large financial losses
and possibly the sale of the owner’s business or even private home.
Public prosecution results in a heavy fine for those not having this essential
insurance cover.
Damage to the salon could be so great that the business might never recover.
Some cases can take up to ten years to come to court and with inflation the claim
against you could be very much more than your original cover, if you only take
Professional basics

the minimum requirements.

Consumer Protection Act 1987

This Act follows European laws to safeguard the consumer in three main areas:
product liability, general safety requirements and misleading prices.
Before 1987 an injured person had to prove that a manufacturer was negligent before
suing for damages. This Act removes the need to prove negligence.
An injured person can take action against:
producers
own brand manufacturers
importers
suppliers such as wholesalers or retailers.
In the salon this means that only reputable products should be used and sold. Care
should be taken in handling, maintaining and storing products so that they remain in
top condition.
It is important that all staff are aware of consumer protection laws when selling
products and when using products in a treatment.

The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2004

The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 1996 defined ‘a cosmetic product as
any substance/preparation that is used on the skin, teeth, hair, nails, lips ... with the
intention to cleanse, perfume, and change the appearance of, to protect, keep in good
condition or to correct body odours’ – which covers just about everything that is found
in a salon!

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A cosmetic product must be clearly labelled with the following information:

a list of ingredients – either on the outer packaging of the product, or if there is no
outer packaging, on the container itself
name and address of the manufacturer/supplier
minimum shelf life – on both the outer packaging and the container itself
storage instructions – to help the consumer to maintain the product at its best
warnings and precautions – on the outer packaging and the container
batch number or lot code – this would allow a manufacturer to recall a batch of
products if necessary
its function
its weight.

Medicines Act 1968

This Act deals with the supply and use of topical anaesthetics and is enforced by the
police and the Medicines and Healthcare product Regulatory Agency (MHRA). Product
licence conditions are for medical application only and not for cosmetic use, therefore
their use by a beauty therapist can be unlawful.

Trade Descriptions Act 1968

Professional basics
Quality Quantity Purpose

THE TRADE DESCRIPTIONS

ACT RELATES TO

Verbal descriptions Adverts Displays and notices

This Act is concerned with the false description of goods. It is important to realise
its relevance. It is illegal to mislead the general public. This also applies to verbal
descriptions given by a third party and repeated. So, if a manufacturer’s false
description of a product is repeated you are liable to prosecution. The law states that
the retailer must not:
supply information that is in any way misleading
falsely describe or make false statements about either a product or a service
on offer.

The Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008

The European Union adopted the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive (UCPD) in
May 2005 in order to strengthen laws on trade descriptions within Europe, as these
varied from country to country. In the UK, the directive was implemented as The
Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations, which came into force on 26
May 2008.

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The regulations maintain good practice and are specific about what retailers may or may
not do. The retailer may not:
make false contrasts between present and previous prices
claim to offer products at half price unless they have already been offered at the full
price for at least 28 days prior to the sale.
Be mindful of using statements saying something is ‘our price’. Comparison of prices can
be misleading and can be illegal – be sure that the product is identical in every way. You
should also check that products are labelled with their country of origin.

Related acts: Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982 amended 2003; Sale
and Supply of Goods Act 1994; The Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers
Regulations 2002.
Wherever goods are bought they must ‘conform to contract’. This means they must
be as described, fit for purpose and of satisfactory quality (that is not inherently faulty
at the time of sale).
Goods are of satisfactory quality if they reach the standard that a reasonable person
would regard as satisfactory, taking into account the price and any description.
Aspects of quality include fitness for purpose, freedom from minor defects,
appearance and finish, durability, and safety.
It is the seller, not the manufacturer, who is responsible if goods do not conform to
Professional basics

contract.
If goods do not conform to contract at the time of sale, purchasers can request their
money back ‘within a reasonable time’. (This is not defined and will depend on
circumstances.)
For up to six years after purchase (five years from discovery in Scotland) purchasers
can demand damages (which a court would equate to the cost of a repair or
replacement).
A purchaser who is a consumer (that is they are not buying in the course of a
business) can alternatively request a repair or replacement.
If repair and replacement are not possible or too costly, then the consumer can seek
a partial refund, if they have had some benefit from the good, or a full refund if the
fault(s) have meant they have enjoyed no benefit.
In general, the onus is on all purchasers to prove the goods did not conform to
contract (e.g. was inherently faulty) and should have reasonably lasted until this point
in time (that is perishable goods do not last for six years).
If a consumer chooses to request a repair or replacement, then for the first six months
after purchase it will be for the retailer to prove the goods did conform to contract (e.g.
were not inherently faulty).
After six months and until the end of the six years, it is for the consumer to prove the
lack of conformity.

Disability Discrimination Act 1995, as amended by the Disability

Discrimination Act 2005 and the Equality Act 2006
This Act makes it unlawful to discriminate against disabled people in employment, the
provision of goods, facilities and services, education, and the buying or renting property or

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land. In 2007, the promotion of civil rights for disabled people became the responsibility
of the new Equality and Human Rights Commission.
It is illegal for an employer (employing 20 or more staff) to discriminate against a
disabled person or prospective employee on the grounds of their disabilities. If a person
is suitable for the job, it is up the employer to make the necessary arrangements and
adjustments in the workplace to ensure there is no disadvantage for the disabled person.
It is also unlawful to harass a person on the grounds of their disability. All employers
must take positive steps to avoid harassment happening in the workplace.

The Working Time Regulations 1998

The Working Time Regulations (1998) merged with the European Working Time Directive
into UK law. The regulations were amended with effect from 1 August 2003.
The regulations control how employers organise the average working week, minimum
daily and weekly rest breaks, and paid holiday entitlement – which before the regulations
were introduced, was left very much up to what the employer wanted to do. The law
applies to full-time, part-time and casual workers. You should not work more than
48 hours in a week, with a rest period of 11 hours between each working day, with a
minimum of one day off a week. If working for more than six hours, you are entitled to a
20-minute break.

Performing Rights – within Copyright, Designs and Patents Act

Professional basics
1988
This Act is designed to protect the people who write music but then do not get the royalty
payments they should when the music is played! Any use of music in the treatment
room, reception or in exercise groups is classed as a public performance.
PPL is the body that is responsible for collecting licence payments from people wishing
to use music on behalf of artists and record companies. Under the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act 1988, PPL can take legal action against anyone who does not pay a licence
fee to use music – and it does! This can mean a considerable fine for those who try to
avoid paying. So all salons and exercise/aerobic instructors need to purchase music that
has a built-in licence. Although more expensive to purchase in the first place (a CD can
price can vary from £10 up to about £30) it does save all the worry of a heavy fine, if
caught!
Most good specialist music shops have a section of licensed music – just ask.

Data Protection Act 1998

The Act states that every organisation (data controller) that uses and processes personal
information (personal data) must notify the Information Commissioner’s office, unless they
are exempt. Failure to do so is a criminal offence.
The main purpose of registration is to ensure that the eight principles of ‘good information
handling’ are being followed – that data should be:
1 fairly and lawfully processed
2 processed for limited purposes
3 adequate, relevant and not excessive
4 acurate
5 not kept longer than necessary

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

6 processed in accordance with the person’s rights

7 secure
8 not transferred to countries outside the European Economic Area (EEA) without
adequate and proper protection.
The fee for notification and annual renewal of a register entry had been £35 for all
For your portfolio
data controllers, but from 1 October 2009, this was replaced by a two-tier payment
To find out more about data charge: for businesses employing fewer than 250 staff the cost remains at £35; a
registration visit the Information higher fee of £500 is payable by businesses with more than 250 employees. The fee
Commissioner’s website, or contact paid also relates to turnover – businesses with a turnover of £25.9 million will go
the Information Commissioner’s into tier two, but this does not apply to charities and public authorities.
Office, Wycliffe House, Water Lane,
Wilmslow, Cheshire SK9 5AF. Any person can ask to see the information held by an organisation about him or her
within 40 days for a fee that is now only £2. It is possible to gain compensation
through a civil court action if you feel there has been any infringement of rights, in
which information that was given for a specific purpose has been abused.

Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1982

This relates to the local authorities in your particular area. Section 8 of the Act
is concerned with the registration of any practitioners who pierce the skin. This
applies to:
acupuncture   tattooing   ear and body piercing   epilation.
Professional basics

It applies to both salons and mobile therapists.

The concern of most local authorities is that through registration they will be able to
keep some control of hygiene regulations and ensure that people have recognised
qualifications. The enforcement of these regulations will depend upon the individual
authority, as does the amount of inspection that takes place, and the scale of fees for
registration.
This does not include people working in hospitals.

Local by-laws
Local government by-laws are laws decided by the local authority or borough
Key terms
council of an area, and they can differ from region to region. Therefore, Manchester
By-laws – laws decided by the local has different local by-laws from Birmingham. However, both these authorities have
authority for your area. a register of salons offering body massage as a treatment. This is to maintain a
professional, qualified salon base and to eliminate the ‘massage parlour’ image.
You need to investigate the by-laws in your own area from your borough council –
these by-laws relate to hygiene, and the registration of ear piercing, and epilation
salons, as well as tattoo parlours.

London Local Authorities Act 1995

This Act requires all premises in London that carry out treatments to be licensed by
their local authorities. This is for any skin piercing treatments, acupuncture, tattooing
and ear piercing – and some local authorities also expect salons to register if they
offer massage, too. So contact your local authority to check whether you need a
licence when you start your new salon.

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 Professional basics

Insurance Key terms

Professional indemnity insurance Insurance – whereby the beauty
Every single professional beauty therapist should have this insurance protection, therapist (or salon) pays an annual
regardless of how few or how many treatments they carry out. fee to an insurer (insurance company)
to compensate them in case of loss
The best deal for these kinds of insurance policies can usually be found via your incurred during the course of their
professional body – professional bodies are often able to offer the best rates because work.
they negotiate on behalf of members and get a considerable discount.
As an employee you need to check with your employer whether you are covered
on the company’s business insurance, or if you need to organise your own cover. A
salon owner or employer should include this in the public liability policy, so that all
employees are protected against claims made by clients.

Public liability insurance Think about it

This insurance is not compulsory, but it is certainly advisable. It will protect the Never assume anything when it
employer should a member of the public be injured on the premises. This could be comes to insurance cover.
something as unexpected as a roof tile hitting the client on her way into the salon. If Always check whether you have
this results in the client being unable to work for a long period of time, the client can cover as a therapist working in a
sue the salon owner for compensation. salon. Would you be personally liable
if things go wrong?

Professional basics
Insurance is important – so protect yourselves and your clients. Contact your
professional association for guidance on all aspects of insurance. Check you are covered if you are
a mobile therapist entering clients’
Independent regulators homes. What if you were to spill wax
on their new bedroom carpet? Are
Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) you covered?
The ASA is an independent body set up to regulate the content of advertisements,
If you are running a business from
sales promotions and direct marketing in the UK. home, do not automatically think
It is responsible for maintaining the quality of advertising standards through codes of your household insurance will cover
practice for television, radio and other types of adverts, such as interactive adverts. your work and clients coming to your
The ASA can stop misleading, harmful or offensive advertising, ensure that sales home. What if a client were to fall
promotions are run fairly, and help to reduce unwanted advertising sent through the in the driveway, and hurt herself?
post, by email or by text message. It also deals with mail order problems. Part of its Would you be covered?
role is to investigate complaints made about advertising, sales promotions or direct Accidents can and do happen – and
marketing. many clients have heard of these ‘no
win, no fee’ solicitor firms willing to
The advertising standards codes especially apply to beauty products. Advertisements
take legal action against you. Better
must be careful not to mislead or misdirect the consumer into believing that wrinkles
safe than sorry! Be covered and you
will disappear, that skin will look ten years younger or that lines can be permanently
have security and peace of mind.
removed. Adverts may refer to temporary prevention of the skin drying out, but
One of the advantages of joining a
any long-term or permanent correction of the lines or wrinkles is not possible and
professional association is that they
therefore not allowed in advertising.
negotiate better and reasonably
ACAS (Advisory, Conciliation and Arbitration Service) priced insurance cover.

ACAS is an independent organisation that offers impartial advice to individuals and

organisations to help resolve disputes or disagreements at work. It aims to encourage
better and more direct workplace communication and to help businesses improve
their employment practices. From April 2009, ACAS will concentrate less on how

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

to manage disciplinary issues, grievances and dismissals and more on resolving

problems in the workplace at an early stage, so saving businesses time and money.

BSI British Standards

BSI British Standards is the UK’s national standards body, which brings together
representatives from a range of organisations to develop formal standards for the
benefit of UK business and consumers. Standards are there to help industry, and
society at large. So even if you are not involved in developing or manufacturing
products, you are bound to come into contact with BSI Standards every day. The aim
of the Standards is to:
promote and share best practice, so designers can focus on developing better
products
set benchmarks for performance, quality and safety
ensure similar products work together (e.g. making sure all CDs are the same
dimensions)
make technical requirements
reduce risks
reduce costs.

Key terms Industry codes of practice

Professional basics

Industry code of practice – a guide Industry codes of practice or ethics are a guide to correct procedures and etiquette
to correct procedures and etiquette as dictated by professional therapists’ associations, of which there are several. Which
within a particular industry. professional body you join is a matter of personal choice, and may depend upon the
one favoured by your training establishment.
The cost involved in joining depends on your level of entry – a student membership is
normally available and with your joining pack you will be given a code of ethics or a
code of practice.
This code is a book of rules that the therapist agrees to abide by, as part of the
contract of membership. If these rules are broken or ignored, membership can be
withdrawn.
Being a member of a professional body brings benefits, which can include:
a good insurance deal negotiated on the members’ behalf
support and advice upon leaving college
a monthly magazine, with useful articles and adverts for jobs and equipment
regular legal updates
free legal helplines, for all aspects of your business
discount cards for suppliers
a business guide for setting up on your own.
The following is a typical set of rules and regulations for a professional
therapist organisation.

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 Professional basics

Federation of Holistic Therapists Code of exaggerated. Personal skills, equipment or facilities cannot
Ethics and Professional Practice be promoted as being better than anyone else’s. Advertising
The Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT) is the UK and any product or service requires promoting knowledge,
Ireland’s largest and leading professional association for skills, qualifications and experience in an accurate and
beauty, complementary and sports therapists. Professional professionally responsible way without making or supporting
therapist members of the FHT agree to abide by the unjustifiable statements. Any potential financial rewards
FHT Code of Ethics and Professional Practice and any should be made explicit and play no part at all in the advice
amendments or additions that may be made in the future. or recommendations of products and services that clients and
users receive.
Duties as a professional therapist
Limits of competence
The definition of a professional therapist concerns the welfare
of clients and the protection of the public from improper A professional therapist must only carry out treatments and
practice. This includes; give advice within their area of training and competence.
Clients’ consent should be obtained before introducing
• making the care of your client your first concern
new treatments into their existing treatment programme. A
• providing a high standard of care at all times professional therapist has the right to refuse to treat a client
• clients being treated with respect, as individuals if the treatment is outside of their competency level. In such
• professional knowledge being kept up-to-date circumstances they should refer to an appropriately qualified
professional therapist or suggest that they contact their GP.
• acting lawfully in your professional and personal practice
• personal accountability for your professional activity Regulation
Holistic therapies are not currently regulated by statute

Professional basics
Failure to abide by this Code will result in disciplinary
procedures being applied by the FHT Professional Conduct that provides protection of title. Protection of title prevents
Panel ranging from a warning with sanctions according to anyone calling themselves a ‘doctor’, physiotherapist,
conditions of practice, suspension until further training is chiropodist, chiropractor etc, without being registered with
completed, or termination of membership, depending on the the relevant statutory regulator under the provisions of an
nature of the breach. When an allegation is made against a act of parliament. Membership of a professional association
professional therapist, the FHT will always take account of the for a therapy that is not regulated enables the therapist
standards set out in this Code when considering that allegation. to demonstrate to clients that they are suitably qualified,
insured and participating in Continuing Professional
Guidelines to advertising your services Development (CPD).
All advertising undertaken in relation to professional practice
must be accurate, must not be misleading, false, unfair or
(Source: Federation of Holistic Therapists; www.fht.org.uk, January 2010)

Salon guidelines
For your portfolio
All the legislation mentioned above should be considered within the normal working
life of the beauty therapist. Working safely and following the correct legal procedure Visit the Federation of Holistic
is very important. Therapists’ website and check out
both their code of practice and
It is also very important to follow the salon guidelines for the particular membership information – you
establishment you are in – be it a training establishment, salon or spa, ocean liner or can also find out about insurance,
renting a room in a health suite. products, and interesting articles.
It is vital that you are aware of the policies on health and safety, safety training and
what exactly is expected within the job role. Normally salon rules are very similar, Key terms
regardless of where the salon is located, but the safety procedures to follow if your
Salon guidelines – policies and
salon happens to be floating in the Caribbean Sea will be very different.
procedures followed within the salon.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

It is very important that the salon expectations and the required behaviour for
therapists are set out at the beginning. This could be at your induction training, or
even at the initial interview.
Regular reviews of policies and regular training for updates is essential, as is your
attendance. If a member of staff continually ignores safety requirements, whether
through negligence or through ignorance (if they have not attended training), this
could form the basis for dismissal. Worse still, should an accident happen through
negligence, injury may occur, and the person responsible may be found liable.

Health and safety rules

These will encompass all aspects of the Health and Safety at Work Act, plus COSHH
guidelines and the Electricity at Work Act.
You should be in no doubt about:
therapists’ responsibilities
salon procedures
treatment safety
equipment safety
protection against cross-infection.

Client safety Storage procedures Stock regulations

Professional basics

Positioning of client Electrical equipment COSHH regulations

followed

Minimum risk of hazard Chemicals First aid procedures in place

for bed height – getting on
and off

Correct use of equipment Valuables Stock rotation

and products

Correct diagnosis for Stock Spillage management

treatments

Correct evacuation Money Correct storage and

Salon procedures for health and safety procedures containers

Your employer or head of the training establishment should have all these standard
procedures in place. If you are not instructed within your first few weeks of beginning
your new post – then ask.

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 Professional basics

Check your knowledge

1 Which of the following statements is correct? 6 An example of a viral infection is:

a) All products should have a list of ingredients on a) athlete’s foot
them if they contain nuts. b) a cold sore
b) Products do not need any ingredients listed on the c) scabies
outside. d) impetigo.
c) Products only need a list of ingredients on them if
7 A bacterial infection is the cause of:
they are bought at a chemist or through a salon.
a) ringworm
d) All products must have all ingredients listed on
b) diarrhoea
them.
c) warts
2 The Data Protection Act states: d) boils.
a) all information on the record card must be accurate
8 A contra-action is:
and correct
a) a condition which is present and means the
b) clients must be kept safe at all times
treatment cannot go ahead
c) all personal information must be kept private and
b) a condition that the client is born with
confidential
c) a reaction which appears during or just after
d) all consultation forms must be the same.
treatment
3 What does the Consumer Protection Act state? d) a condition which means the treatment has to be
a) The consumer must be kept safe while on the adapted.

Professional basics
premises.
9 An autoclave is:
b) The consumer must be protected from unsafe
a) a waxing pot
products.
b) an effective sterilisation method
c) The consumer must be protected against unfair
c) a hot towel heater
prices.
d) a chemical sterilising agent.
d) The consumer must be protected against disease.
10 Sterilisation is:
4 What does the Health and Safety at Work Act state
a) the removal of dirt and being ultra clean
about responsibility?
b) the removal of bacteria
a) Both the employer and employees are responsible
c) the removal of viruses
for health and safety in the workplace.
d) the removal of bacteria, spores and viruses.
b) It is the responsibility of the employer to be
responsible for health and safety.
c) It is the client who is responsible for their own
health and safety.
d) It is the salon owner who is responsible for health
and safety.
5 The Trade Descriptions Act states:
a) It is illegal to make false claims about a product or
service.
b) It is illegal to put an advert on television.
c) It is illegal to employ a foreign person without a
work permit.
d) It is illegal to offer unsafe treatments.

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 2
Section

The workplace
environment

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 Unit G20

Make sure your

own actions reduce
risks to health

Unit GH8
and safety

What you will learn

G20.1 Identify the hazards and evaluate the risks in
your workplace
G20.2 Reduce the risks to health and safety in your
workplace

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
A beauty salon should be a haven of tranquillity where the
client can relax, unwind and enjoy her treatment, secure in the
knowledge that she is in good hands and her professional therapist
is in total control. Part of setting the scene is ensuring not only
that the treatment is of the highest quality but also that the client
is safe and not at risk.
Unfortunately, because of the very nature of its business a busy
beauty therapy salon has the potential to be a dangerous place.
Any business whose livelihood involves dealing with the general
public, that is, the customer, could be viewed as an accident
waiting to happen! The types of treatments involved in a salon
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

are also a potential hazard: most equipment relies on electricity

to work, we use chemicals when eyelash tinting and perming, we
work with hot wax, and so on – each of the units carries its own
potential hazards and risks.
It may not be obvious to the client that lying on a couch having
a relaxing facial is potentially dangerous. In fact, it should not
even cross the client’s mind, but the therapist should view all
treatments as a possible risk, and then minimise that risk. Your
motto should be: ‘Prevention is better than cure.’

Advice is available from the Health

This unit is for everyone at work, regardless of whether they are a paid worker, a
and Safety Executive (Source:
Health and Safety Executive) volunteer, part-time or full-time employee or a self-employed therapist in a mobile
business. Everyone within the workplace has an obligation by law to secure their own
and others’ health, safety and welfare. This unit is about identifying the factors that
contribute to you becoming a responsible employee.
Key terms The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 covers the legal requirements of an
Health and Safety Executive employer. The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) gives lots of advice for those
(HSE) – an enforcing authority considering going into business and employing others.
responsible for health and safety
But what about you? Who are you responsible for? As a professional therapist, you
regulations in Great Britain. It
are as liable as your employer, perhaps more so as you have regular direct contact
ensures that risks to people’s health
and safety from work activities are
with the customer. You are just as accountable to legal action should a client be able
properly controlled. to prove you were negligent.
Individual salons usually have their own ‘house rules’ and favourite methods of doing
things that are largely governed by the owners’ preferences. The uniform, the décor
and the daily running of the salon are personal and the working pattern will differ
from salon to salon. The health and safety policies should not.
This unit is not a guide to completing a full risk assessment – that should be done
by a trained professional who specialises in that field. The aim of this unit is to make
you aware of the significant risks in the beauty salon, and to show you how to identify
the risks and deal with them appropriately.

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 The workplace environment

Identify the hazards and evaluate

the risks in your workplace
In this outcome you will learn about:
• identifying which workplace instructions are relevant to your job
• identifying those working practices in your job which could harm you or others
• identifying those aspects of your workplace which could harm you or others
• checking which of the potentially harmful working practices and aspects of your
workplace present the highest risks to you or to others
• dealing with hazards in accordance with workplace instructions and legal
requirements
• correctly naming and locating the people responsible for health and safety in your

Unit G20
workplace
• reporting to the people responsible for health and safety in your workplace those
hazards which present the highest risks.

Key terms
The three key areas to consider are:
Hazard – anything that can cause
a hazard in the salon
harm or that has the potential to
the risk that the hazard will be harmful

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
cause harm.
the control by which you reduce the risk where possible. Risk – the chance, however great or
small, that the hazard will cause harm
A firework is an example of a hazard – it has to be lit using a naked flame. It ignites
to someone.
to create patterns in the sky because it has explosives within it that create the noise
and colour. So, the potential to cause harm is high – it can, and unfortunately Control – the means by which risks
often does, cause burns to the skin, loss of sight and even death. However, if the identified are eliminated or reduced
firework display is professionally organised, then the potential for harm is lessened. to acceptable levels.
The spectators are behind barriers, the fireworks are set off in proper containers of
sand using long tapered ignition sticks, and fire extinguishers are near – the risk is
controlled to minimise damage.
Should the fireworks be set off in the street by people with no experience and no
supervision using a domestic lighter, then the risk becomes greater – there is a real Think risk
possibility of someone getting hurt. This is the fundamental difference between a
hazard and a risk.
So, the skill is not only to recognise the potential of the hazard to cause injury or
harm but also to know how to act in the most sensible manner to neutralise the risk, Assess the risk
or to make it as low as possible.
Looking for a risk, and acting upon a risk assessment, is not necessarily a complicated
matter, but it does need to be thought through thoroughly. Be logical. Start with
the most obvious risks. Visualise making a cup of tea. What is the most hazardous
Minimise the risk
part? Boiling the water and pouring the boiling water is the most obvious answer, as
the boiling water has the potential to burn the skin quite seriously. You may get a
tummy upset if the milk has gone off, or the handle on the teacup may break, or the
spout on the teapot may leak, but these are secondary probabilities. Go for the main
hazard, even if you think it is probably too obvious, and you cannot go far wrong. Avoid damage

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Promoting a safe working environment

Simple precautions can often be A sensible and intelligent question to ask when attending a job interview for any
the most effective, and common salon position is what staff training is available, not just for advancement of skill
sense will always help to prevent areas but also for health and safety training.
accidents. Ignorance is not an
Regular guidance for all levels of staff will help to identify and minimise the hazards.
acceptable excuse, nor is it accepted
All salons should have a workplace policy to include:
as a defence against misconduct or a
damage claim within a court of law. the workplace/environmental factors
There is no justification for not being safe working methods and equipment use
fully aware of your responsibilities
the safe use of all hazardous substances in the workplace (not just for your
and duty to yourself, your clients and
your colleagues.
particular job role)
general policies for eating, smoking, drinking and drugs
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

expected personal presentation

what to do in the event of an accident, breakage or spillage
all emergency procedures
behaviour policies for all personnel
corrective action where required.
If you are told at interview not to worry about any of the above and that it really
doesn’t matter, then you need to consider whether you want to work in a place that
has so little regard for the safety of staff and clients, as well as health and safety
legislation.

Identifying workplace instructions relevant to

your job
‘Employers have a general duty under section 2 of the Health and Safety at Work
etc Act 1974 to ensure the health, safety and welfare of their employees at work
so far as is reasonably practicable. People in control of non-domestic premises
[e.g. beauty salons] have a duty (under Section 4 of the Act) towards people who
are not their employees but use their premises [e.g. clients]. The Regulations
expand on these duties and are intended to protect the health and safety of
everyone in the workplace, and ensure that adequate welfare facilities are provided
for people at work.
These Regulations aim to ensure that workplaces meet the health, safety and
welfare needs of all members of a workforce, including people with disabilities.
Several of the Regulations require things to be ‘suitable’. Regulation 2(3) makes
it clear that facilities/the workplace should be suitable for anyone. This includes
people with disabilities. Where necessary, parts of the workplace, including
in particular doors, passageways, stairs, showers, washbasins, lavatories and
workstations, should be made accessible for people with disabilities.’
(Source: Health and Safety Executive (2007), ‘Workplace health,
safety and welfare: A short guide for managers’)

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 The workplace environment

A salon only has a legal requirement to have written risk assessments and
documentation if it employs five or more people. However, the sensible salon owner
will have that in place regardless of how many staff are employed. Many insurance
companies insist on written risk policies before they will agree to insure the business.
The other health and safety requirements for a small business are:
to inform the HSE area office or the local authority’s environmental health
department of the business’s name and address
to inform the HSE area office or the local authority’s environmental health
department of any new employees
to display the health and safety law poster (available at your local Trading
Standards Office) or hand out leaflets containing the equivalent information
to make an assessment of the risks at the workplace – which must be acted
upon and kept as a written record if the business has five or more employees (this

Unit G20
includes fire risks)
to bring the business’s written statement of its health and safety policy to the
attention of employees, and keep it up to date
to register with the local health authority if appropriate – this will apply in
particular to therapists who carry out skin piercing.

Workplace health, safety and welfare

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
In each of the practical units you must take into account the lighting, ventilation,
heating and general comfort of the client – refer to Organisational and legal
requirements in the section ‘What you must know’ of the National Occupational
Standards. This is not only for client safety but also for yours. The client may be in
the sauna for a ten-minute treatment and you will be looking after her. Not only is
her body temperature rising, yours is too, but she will be able to relax and rehydrate
while you will be working!
Although you may think that salon ventilation and lighting is not part of your job role, Think about it
these environmental factors affect you, your colleagues and the clients, so you need
to be aware of them. You will therefore need to consider all aspects of the salon, both All aspects of the workplace are
pertinent to you, and should be
for client comfort and safety and for all workers in the salon. These include:
researched.
ventilation
temperatures in indoor workplaces
environmental factors, e.g. humidity and sources of heat in the workplace
personal factors, e.g. the type and quantity of clothing a worker is wearing and
how physically demanding their work is
thermal comfort in the workplace – this applies to both workers and clients
supervision – to ensure the implementation of precautions put in place to Think about it
safeguard workers’ health in the workplace environment Therapists who work in large
lighting salons within department stores
automatic emergency lighting, powered by an independent source, should be are expected to unpack their own
provided where sudden loss of light would create a risk deliveries in loading bays, so health
and safety for this area should also
cleanliness and waste materials
be researched – it is all part of your
room dimensions and space job role in a salon.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

workstations and seating

For your portfolio
safety and training in the precautions to be taken
Obtain a copy of the Health and
Safety Executive’s booklet on maintenance
‘Workplace health, safety and floors and traffic routes
welfare: A short guide for managers’ loading bays
(2007). The booklet is available
open sides of staircases – these should be fenced with an upper rail at 900 mm
online. It will help you in your
or higher, and a lower rail
research of workplace topics.
transparent or translucent doors, gates or walls and windows
windows and skylights – these should be designed so that they may be cleaned
safely
doors and gates – internal and external
escalators and moving walkways
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

sanitary conveniences and washing facilities

drinking water
accommodation for clothing and facilities for changing
facilities for rest and to eat meals – canteens or restaurants may be used as rest
facilities provided there is no obligation to purchase food
suitable rest facilities for pregnant women and nursing mothers. (Source: Health
and Safety Executive (2007), ‘Workplace health, safety and welfare: A short
guide for managers’.)

For your portfolio

The questions below are from students who have just started work in a salon. Research
each question to find out how the law can help them.

Maria: My salon is very stuffy. I often feel light-headed and sometimes think I’m going
to faint. Can I complain to my employer, or will I get into trouble? What are my rights,
if any?

Nicky: There is nowhere for me to eat lunch, and my boss says I am lucky to get a lunch
break at all. I thought the salon should have a rest room for staff, am I right? How
would I find this out?

Shreena: My work station is right next to a store cupboard. Staff are always going in
and out, and the cupboard door keeps crashing into the back of my seat. It disrupts my
treatments all the time, and I’m usually feeling a bit sore by the end of the day. What
do the rules say about working areas? Surely we have to be safe?

Sam: In my salon we just put all the waxing strips (even the ones with blood spots on
them) into the normal bin. I don’t think that is hygienic or allowed by law. What do we
have to do and how can I find out about this?

Jasmine: The lighting in the passageway to the stock cupboard is very dull and I think it
is a bit of a hazard. Someone could easily fall over the step leading into the cupboard.
What does the law state?

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 The workplace environment

Think about it
When you inform your local Health and Safety Executive office that you are going into
business, they will check out your business premises. This will depend on the authority
within your own area, whose requirements would affect you whether you work from
home or in a salon. The level of inspection may vary from area to area, and will also
depend upon the types of treatment your salon is going to offer; for example, face
and body massage will require registration in large cities such as London, Birmingham
and Manchester to show you are a legitimate massage business, but may not if you are
in a small village. The same is true of treatments which involve skin piercing and the
disposal of contaminated needles, ear piercing and electrolysis and milia removal.

My story

Unit G20
Taking a risk
Hi, my name is Ruminda. I have witnessed
a horrible accident that shows why
risk assessment is so important in the
workplace.
To help my finances while at college

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
studying beauty therapy, I work part time in
the local newsagent’s. Last summer, a boy
came in and bought his usual comic. He
started to read it and was so engrossed that
he wasn’t paying attention to where he was
walking. Unfortunately, he walked straight
into the glass front of the shop instead of
the open door. His shoes and head hit the
glass and it shattered – the noise was really
loud and frightening. He fell through the glass, and ended up lying face down
on the pavement. There was a stunned silence and then the owner rushed out
to see if the boy was all right. I was too scared to look as there was quite a lot
of blood on him. He was lucky in one way, as the shards of glass hanging down
could have done some real damage. We called an ambulance and he was
taken to hospital.
The police and fire-fighters made the glass safe by knocking it all into the shop,
and we had to close for repairs. The boy only had some cuts and bruising – he
made a full recovery.
I had to give a witness statement to the insurance company and the police.
Because the owner had not installed safety glass and did not have enough
stickers on the glass front to show it was a glass window, he is to be prosecuted
for negligence. That young boy could have died – I see him sometimes and
often think how differently that day could have turned out.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Identifying aspects of the workplace which could

be harmful
Here are a few of the many hazards in a beauty salon:

Lack of training Chemicals – e.g cuticle Products can cause

Obstructions of doorways,
for equipment use remover, tint, peroxide. allergic reactions or
hallways or fire exits
Some may be flammable spillage, or can get
in a client’s eyes
Poor lighting

Waste – e.g disposal

Wet floors POTENTIAL HAZARDS
of contaminated wax
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

strips, probes, epilation

needles
The glass window at the
front of the salon
Electricity – used for wax
Furniture – e.g heaters and infrared lamps
Clients – they can bring
glass top trolleys,
infections into the salon Sharp instruments
wheeled stools,
– e.g scissors, Trailing
high couches
cuticle knives leads

Although these are identified as possible hazards, not all of them will
become actual hazards, and certainly not all at the same time! For
example, in all the years an experienced therapist works in a salon,
there may not be a fire caused by faulty equipment overheating and
bursting into flames. But the important thing is that the therapist will
have recognised the possibility and will have her equipment regularly
checked by a competent person. She will also keep a safety logbook
with all equipment checks dated and signed, as recommended in the
Electricity at Work Regulations 1989. The risk has been minimised,
and should a fire start, the logbook will show that responsibility has
been taken and the therapist or salon owner has not been neglecting
her duty.
In this unit the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 is the only
piece of legislation specifically referred to, as it is the main piece
of legislation under which nearly all of the other regulations fall.
However, you should also refer to ‘You, your client and the law’
(see Professional basics, pages 48–68) for other health and
safety legislation. This includes the Electricity at Work Regulations
1989 and Environmental Protection Act 1990 for safe disposal of
contaminated clinical waste.

A safe work station

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 The workplace environment

Each practical unit has its own particular hazards which will be addressed in the unit
itself. These risk factors are often out of the control of the therapist and should be the
responsibility of the salon owner, for example ventilation required for nail varnish and
artificial nail chemicals, or adequate ventilation in the sauna and steam suites.
However, if the sign to the salon was hanging off and about to drop onto a client or
unsuspecting passerby, you would be neglectful if you did not report it. Structural
damage does happen to older buildings. If the salon is in, say, a Tudor building,
which may be protected and listed, then the amenities will not be as modern as in
later buildings. Oak beams and lead windows may be very attractive, but if water
is dripping down a wall into an electricity socket, the building is not safe! Older
buildings may be very expensive to maintain and can present many more hazards.

Identifying aspects of the workplace which

Unit G20
present the highest risk
Some areas of the salon will be more high risk than others. For your own personal
safety and that of others, it is up to you to know, understand and carry out workplace
instructions particular to your job role, to identify those areas which are potentially
harmful and control the risks, to be responsible and to be safe.

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Waste must be disposed of safely Electrical equipment must be installed by a competent

person and regularly checked

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Hazard What to check

The working environment

The building Is the building safe and stable?

A high-risk factor Is there any asbestos present in the roof or walls?
Is the outside of the building in good repair, with no
probability of anything falling on the customer?
Is the sign for the salon secure?
Is the large salon window decorated with stickers to
stop anyone walking into it?
Is the window made of safety glass to minimise
damage should an accident happen?

Floors Are they clean and dry?

Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

A high-risk factor Has there been any spillage?

Have they been over polished and become slippery?
Are there any loose carpet edges or rugs to trip on?
Are the floor coverings hygienic and easily cleaned?

Doorways and hallways Are they clear of obstructions?

A high-risk factor Are they full of clutter, which could cause harm?
Is a fire exit being blocked?
Are the doors too heavy to open safely?

Windows and curtains Is any electrical equipment near to a curtain that

A medium-risk factor could catch fire?
Are the windows safe and lockable?
Do the windows open to allow sufficient ventilation
and airflow?

General décor and facilities Is the paint on the walls lead free?
A low-risk factor Are the light fittings secure?
Does the building have safe wiring for lighting and
plug sockets?
Is the boiler regularly maintained and serviced?
Are gas mains and water pipes new and working
properly?

Dust Toxic Flammable

Dust Toxic Flammable Irritant Corrosive Oxidising

agent
COSHH symbols showing the different types of hazardous substances

Irritant Corrosive Oxidising

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 The workplace environment

Hazard What to check

Equipment

Beds Are the brakes on?

A high-risk factor Is it at the right height for the therapist to work
comfortably, and not too high for the client to get on to
easily?
Is the bedding a danger by being too long and trailing
on the floor, ready to trip someone up?
Is the bedding easily cleaned, protected during the
treatment and hygienic?

Chairs Are chairs secured and at a suitable height?

A high-risk factor Are hydraulic chairs regularly maintained?

Unit G20
Are all chairs stable?
Are they on castors?
Are they hygienic and easy to keep clean?

Trolleys Are they glass topped and liable to shatter?

A low-risk factor Are they secure on their castors?
Are they regularly maintained?

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Are they hygienic and easy to keep clean?
Are they up to the job given to them, or is the
equipment too heavy?

Electrical appliances Are they regularly maintained by a competent person?

A high-risk factor Are they used by qualified personnel only?
Are they safely stored?
Are they used with the correct products only?
Are they bought from a reputable manufacturer to
ensure safety?
Are they used at the correct socket with the right plugs
and fuses?
Are there any trailing leads?
Are they placed on a safe surface, rather than balanced
on a windowsill?

Bins for disposal of waste Are the correct bins available for different waste
products products?
A high-risk factor Is contaminated waste separated from other waste
(e.g. body fluids, blood, etc. from waxing or eyebrow
shaping)?
Who is responsible for emptying the bins and how
regularly will they empty them?
Is infection control in place to minimise risk?

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Hazard What to check

Products Are they clearly labelled?

A very high-risk Are they stored safely and correctly?
factor Has a COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) sheet been
completed for each product?
Do therapists know how to use them correctly?
Are they stored in the proper containers, not in other bottles?
Is the shelf life taken into account?
Are lids secured properly?
Is a designated first-aider available in case of accidents?
Do staff know what to do in cases of personal injury caused by poor
product use?
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Are correct patch tests being carried out to prevent allergic reactions?
Is regular product training being offered?
Are toxic products stored correctly?

People Should they be there?

A very high-risk Are they going to create a hazard (e.g. workmen doing repairs and
factor leaving tools out where clients are walking by)?
Do they know where they are going?
Are they aware of steps and the salon layout?
Is their behaviour suitable for the salon, or are they using threatening
behaviour?
Are they intruders?
Is there a risk they may be able to steal something?

You – the Do you lead others by giving a good example in health and safety
therapist matters?
Does your behaviour endanger others?
Are you fully trained to use equipment/products?
Are you as hygienic as possible to avoid cross-infection?
Do you follow the correct procedures for the workplace?
Do you actively take part in regular training sessions for health and
safety?
Do you report possible hazards to the correct person?
Is your uniform a health or safety hazard?
Do you wear safe shoes?
Do you wear a lot of jewellery?
Do you walk around with sharp scissors in your pocket?
Do you look out for the safety of others?
Do you keep up-to-date client record cards?
Do you use the correct lifting posture, i.e. keeping your back straight
and bending your knees?

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 The workplace environment

Who is responsible for health and safety in Think about it

your workplace? All of these hazards, checks for risks
and tips for minimising the risks are
Health and safety regulations apply to all businesses all the time. They should
very general, and mostly common
not merely be referred to when there has been a near accident at work – they
sense. Each practical unit needs to
should be a full-time concern.
be looked at specifically as each
The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 is largely about employers – but since will have its own problems and risk
you may be an employer yourself one day, the following extracts from the Act potential.
will be very important to you.
By asking yourself the questions
The general duties of employers to their employees are set down in section 2(1) given here, you will soon start to
of the Act: identify and then rectify any risks.

‘It shall be the duty of every employer to ensure, so far as is reasonably

practical, the health, safety and welfare at work of all his employees.’

Unit G20
In addition to responsibilities to employees, an employer has a duty to protect
other persons, for example members of the public. These are stated in section
3(1) of the Act:
‘It shall be the duty of every employer to conduct his undertaking in such a
way as to ensure, so far as is reasonably practical, that persons not in his
employment who may be affected thereby are not thereby exposed to risks to

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
their health or safety.’
All persons who are self-employed also have responsibilities under the Act.
These are dealt with under section 3(2):
‘It shall be the duty of every self-employed person to conduct his undertaking
in such a way as to ensure, so far as is reasonably practical, that he and other
persons (not being his employees) who may be affected thereby are not thereby
exposed to risks to their health or safety.’
Even if you have no intention of owning a salon, employing anyone, or
becoming self-employed, you still have responsibilities as an employee. These
include:
correct use of systems and procedures
reporting flaws or gaps within the system or procedure when in use.
Employers and employees have a shared responsibility for:
the safety of individuals being cared for
the safety of the working environment.
Employees also have responsibilities to take reasonable care of themselves and
other people affected by their work and to cooperate with their employers in the
discharge of their obligations.
The employee has a responsibility to:
her/himself   other employees   the public.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Dealing with hazards in accordance

with workplace instructions and legal
requirements
All professional salons should have a set of rules and procedures for everyone
to follow. Employees should be familiar with these rules and regulations for
the safety and protection of all within the salon.

Think about it By law, the salon has to:

A hazard will need to be reported display the health and safety rules and regulations on the wall in a
to a supervisor/lecturer/technician/ prominent position (see Professional basics, page 49, for an example of
manager/the person responsible for this poster)
health and safety. display fire evacuation procedures.
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Professionally, the salon will also have:

For your portfolio
codes of practice to follow from its professional body with regard to set
Find out who is responsible for each procedures
aspect of health and safety in your certain standards to maintain for insurance cover to be valid, which are
salon. Make a list, so that in the
usually linked to the codes of practice.
event of an incident you know who
to go to. Legally, the employer is responsible for putting into place the rules covering the
health and safety of all employees and clients and ensuring that safe practice
is followed by all staff. These responsibilities may be carried out by:
providing regular training, with staff meetings to update on safety issues
giving a clear outline at the initial interview as to what is expected
maintaining records of injuries or first aid treatment given
monitoring and evaluating health and safety arrangements regularly
providing a written health and safety booklet
consulting the experts and being knowledgeable – ignorance is not an
excuse.
Refer to ‘You, your client and the law’ (see Professional basics, pages 48–64)
for a full breakdown of legal obligations of the employer and employee.

Reporting hazards of high risk

Hazards can and do happen and everyone should be aware of the safety
implications.
As part of their personal responsibility, the therapist needs to be able to
recognise when the hazard can be dealt with immediately and when help may
be needed. It is very important to know who to go to when a salon problem
arises that is a potential health and safety issue and there is any risk of harm.
Salons will have different staff members with different areas of responsibility.
One or two staff members will be trained in first aid, one person will assume
responsibility for filling out the accident and report book and keeping health and
If something obstructing access is safety records up to date, another will be responsible for building maintenance
too heavy to be moved, it should be and the replacement of light bulbs, and so on.
reported

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 The workplace environment

ACCIDENT / ILLNESS
REPORT FORM

This form is to be completed by the injured party. If this is not possible, the form should be
completed by the person making the report. If more than one person was injured, please
complete a separate form for each person.
Completing and signing this form does not constitute an admission of liability of any kind, either
by the person making the report or any other person.
This form should be completed immediately and forwarded to the Health and Safety Officer and
Salon Manager.
If it is possible that an accident has been caused by a defect in machinery, equipment or a
process, isolate / fence off the area and contact the Health and Safety Officer or Manager

Unit G20
immediately.

SECTION 1 PERSONAL DETAILS

Surname: Bkd] (Mr/Mrs/Ms/Miss) Forename(s): @[ddo
Date of birth: (/%&'%+- Address: ./"D[mIjh[[j"=bWi]em

STAFF CONTRACTOR VISITOR GENERAL PUBLIC 

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
SECTION 2 ACCIDENT / INCIDENT / ILLNESS DETAILS
Accident (Injury)  Illness Date: '/%&*%'& Time: ')0&- (24-hour clock)
Location: IWbedheec)
Nature of injury or condition and the part of the body affected:
Ib_ff[ZedÆeeh"jm_ij[ZWdab[

Account
Describe what happened and how. In the case of an accident state clearly what the injured
person was doing.
IcWbbfWjY^e\mWj[hedj^[Æeeh¸Yb_[dj]eje\\YekY^WdZ
ib_ff[Zed_j$
Name and address of adult witness(es): @e8[dÅ[bZ"8[Wkj_\kbI[Yh[ji

Details of action taken

Ambulance summoned Taken to hospital Sent to hospital 
First aid given Taken home Sent home Returned to work

SECTION 3 PREVENTATIVE ACTION

Recommended:je[dikh[j^WjWbbif_bbW][iWh[ceff[ZkfijhW_]^jWmWo
Implemented: Yes / No Date: '/%&*%'&

Report raised by FOR OFFICE USE ONLY

Name:9Wjh_dWMWbZhed Copy sent to: Salon Manager

Position:J^[hWf_ij
Health and Safety Officer
Signature:9MWbZhed Date: '/%&*%'&
An accident report form

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Examples of hazards which need reporting:

Hazard Way to avoid hazard When referral may be necessary

Breach of security Shut windows, lock cupboards and doors When something is found open or something
is believed to be missing

Faulty or damaged products, tools, Handle correctly, store correctly, treat with care When something is found to be broken
equipment, fixtures or fittings Follow manufacturer’s instructions

Spillage Take care when mixing, pouring and filling When spilled material is corrosive or irritant

Slippery floors Make others aware by blocking the area with a When acid, grease or polish is spilt
chair to prevent an accident
Sweep up powder spills, mop up spills of liquid;
refer to COSHH sheets for correct method
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Obstruction to access and exit Move large equipment away from doorways if When object is too heavy to be moved, it
able to do so should be reported
Put bags and coats on a rack or shelving

These hazards should be reported to a manager or the health and safety officer
within your workplace. There are also hazards that need to be reported to the
local health officer or the Health and Safety Executive – refer to ‘You, your client
and the law’, Professional basics (see pages 48–68) for more information.

Dealing with hazards of low risk

This is largely common sense. If the risk is low and you can deal with it straight
away, then do so to prevent an incident occurring. This could be something very
straightforward, such as a client’s handbag on the floor which could trip someone
up. Pick it up off the floor, put it under the trolley out of the way and carry on
with what you were doing.
This low-risk hazard does not need reporting, but it still requires prompt action to
prevent it becoming a bigger problem.
Always act within the policy of your workplace. For example, if there is a policy
on where clients’ handbags and coats are stored to prevent congestion in the
salon, then use the correct place.

For your portfolio

Any low-risk hazard has potential to become a high risk – if action is not taken.
What would you consider to be a low-risk hazard in your salon? Look around your
place of work and have a detailed review of possibilities. What would be a high-
risk hazard? Keep a risk assessment form handy and write down what you see – in
many companies bonuses are paid to workers who prevent accidents
from happening.

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 The workplace environment

Reduce the risks to health and

safety in your workplace
In this outcome you will learn about:
• c arrying out your work in accordance with your level of competence, workplace
instructions, suppliers’ or manufacturers’ instructions and legal requirements
• controlling those health and safety risks within your capability and job responsibilities
• passing on suggestions for reducing risks to health and safety to the responsible people
• making sure your behaviour does not endanger the health and safety of you or others in
your workplace
• following the workplace instructions and suppliers’ or manufacturers’ instructions for the
safe use of equipment, materials and products

Unit G20
• reporting any differences between workplace instructions and suppliers’ or
manufacturers’ instructions
• making sure that your personal presentation and behaviour at work protects the health
and safety of you and others, meets any legal responsibilities and is in accordance with
workplace instructions
• making sure you follow environmentally friendly working practices.

This section looks at how to reduce or minimise the risks relating to the hazards

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
you identified within the first part of this unit. You need to know how to carry out
risky tasks safely, following both suppliers’ or manufacturers’ instructions and your
workplace requirements.

Think about it Think about it

Your legal responsibilities form the first part of every practical unit – refer to If a manufacturer’s instructions
Organisational and legal requirements in the section ‘What you must know’ of the do not comply with the practice
National Occupational Standards. Reducing the risks to health and safety in the in your salon, then always ask for
workplace is part of your legal responsibilities, so it is important to link this to your clarification from your supervisor or
treatments. manager, rather than endanger a
client.
You must also have a thorough understanding of the health and safety policies within
your salon that affect your working day. This includes your conduct and personal
presentation, which will ensure the health and safety of yourself, your clients and
your working colleagues. Think about it
You should always carry out your work in relation to your level of competence, You should always follow
your workplace instructions and manufacturers’ instructions, as well as the legal environmentally friendly practices
requirements. You should be capable and know your job responsibilities; this will where possible. This means being
allow you to control health and safety risks where you can. Never knowingly endanger thoughtful about recycling rubbish,
the health of others and do pass on to your supervisor or manager any suggestions and separating waste such as plastic
that you think might help to reduce risks to yourself or others. bottles for recycling. Try to be
economical with product usage so
waste is minimised and avoid lots
Reducing risk by taking appropriate action of plastic packaging where possible.
In the first part of the unit we looked at the various hazards and what to check for. We Many product houses now use
will now look again at those hazards and see how to minimise the risks by taking the recyclable cardboard rather than
appropriate action. plastic packaging.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Hazard Actions to minimise risk

The working environment

The building Take out property owner’s liability insurance, often known as buildings insurance. This covers damage
A high-risk factor to the outside of the salon building such as roof repairs, wall repairs, etc. Internal major fittings such as
toilet facilities and kitchens are also often covered.
Maintain and check the outside of the property regularly and repair small damage before it becomes a
major hazard.

Floors Only use the correct products for floor cleaning and allow plenty of drying time.
A high-risk factor Major stripping and recovering of the floor surface can be done outside normal salon times.
Repair or avoid carpets and rugs with frayed edges and those not easily kept clean.
Pay for professional cleaning companies to chemically clean carpets outside normal salon hours.

Doorways and hallways Have a regular inspection from your local fire safety officer who will advise the salon on the correct
A high-risk factor walkway exit route in case of fire.
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Keep corridors tidy and clutter free.

Ensure stairs and corridors are well lit, and replace blown light bulbs immediately.

Windows and curtains Keep all electrical equipment away from the window area.
A medium-risk factor Employ a handyman to ensure the windows open, are hinged properly and are safe and secure.
Invest in double-glazing if possible, or make sure older style windows are properly maintained.
Loose windows are the ideal entry for a potential thief.
If your salon has a large window front and glass doors, remember to put lots of display stickers on
them.
Magnification mirrors without covers placed near to a window can become a fire risk if the sun’s rays
pass through the window, through the middle of the lamp and then on to a couch or curtains – the
material may smoulder, then catch fire. Always cover the magnification lamp and do not leave by
unshielded windows.

General décor and Invest in safe decorating products bought from a reputable DIY store, not from the boot of someone’s
facilities car.
A low-risk factor Lead-based paint is hazardous to health and should not be used.
Avoid positioning product displays, ornaments and plant pots where they are likely to be in the way of
heavy traffic flow of people through the salon – they could be tripped over or knocked.
Regularly check and maintain the utility services – many companies provide a regular service agreement
for a yearly overhaul of gas and electricity parts including boilers and central heating, etc.

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 The workplace environment

Hazard Actions to minimise risk

Equipment

Beds Buy from professional suppliers only, with guarantees, and maintenance and repair agreements.
A high-risk factor Ensure the bed is the correct height to avoid back problems and buy an adjustable bed where possible. Use
protective coverings that are washable, and minimise the risk of cross-infection by regularly disinfecting the
bed and covering.

Chairs As above.
A high-risk factor The recommended chair for use by professionals is the five-castor movable chair with adjustable height and
backrest, often called the ‘super secretarial chair’.
Make sure the height of the chair is suitable for you – you should be able to sit squarely with your bottom at
the back of the chair and your feet firmly flat on the floor.
Regularly maintain the chair and lubricate the castors.

Unit G20
Electrical appliances As above.
A high-risk factor Always buy from a reputable manufacturer who provides training, suitable products and an after-sales
service, and offers repairs and servicing.
Comply with the Electricity at Work Act 1989 and have the equipment tested by a competent person. Keep
a logbook of testing, dated and signed, with a system of labelling and removing faulty equipment from use.
Ensure regular training to update all staff as well as training in fire fighting and the use of an extinguisher.
Make sure staff know who to report to in case of electrical fires.

Disposal of waste Environmental Protection Act 1990

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
products The Controlled Waste Regulations 1992
A high-risk factor The Special Waste Regulations 1996
This legislation requires all clinical waste (waste which consists wholly or partly of animal or human tissue,
blood or other body fluids, swabs, dressings, syringes and needles) to be kept apart from general waste and
to be disposed of to a licensed incineration or landfill site by a licensed company.
A contract can be arranged with a local firm who will take away yellow bins with contaminated waste and
replace them on a daily or weekly basis.

Products The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 require you to assess the risk of all
A very high-risk factor hazardous substances used in the workplace as well as those that you may become exposed to during your
work activities or which are produced at the end of any work or process.
Keep manufacturers’ data sheets and ensure that products are used in accordance with the manufacturers’
recommendations.
COSHH sheets also have a space for the recommended first aid requirements if the product is in contact with
the skin, is ingested (swallowed) or enters the eye. Learn these and be prepared for any eventuality.
Proper labelling and clearly identifiable bottles or tubs for caustic ingredients will help to prevent accidents.
Keep thorough and up-to-date record cards for clients’ treatments and products, especially if there has
already been a reaction or allergy to a particular product, or if the client has a severe allergy to a specific
substance, such as nuts.
Go on regular commercial training to keep abreast of new products, and never guess a product use or
equipment usage.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

People There are many risks involving people – operator error with equipment, visitors to the salon, untrained
A very high-risk factor people using equipment they shouldn’t and even opening windows they shouldn’t.
With visitors, be informed about who is coming and going in the salon. Many salons employ a badge or
name labelling system to identify visitors, sales reps, trades people, delivery drivers and so on. They may be
expected to sign in using a visitor book and have suitable identification with them.
Minimise the risk of client harm by asking workers to carry out repairs in the quieter part of the day, or when
the salon is closed. Major repairs would necessitate the salon being closed, as the clients’ safety cannot be
compromised.
Do not be intimidated by a person shouting or by abusive behaviour. Firmly ask the person to leave, or
consult with the manager or salon owner, and if necessary call the police.

Risk assessments in the workplace

Think about it A risk assessment is simply a careful examination of what, in your workplace, could
cause harm to people, so that you can weigh up whether you have taken enough
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

You cannot blame anyone else for

precautions or should do more to prevent harm. You are legally required to assess
your own actions – you need to
the risks in your workplace so that you put in place a plan to control those risks.
take responsibility for everything
According to the Health and Safety Executive’s leaflet ‘Five steps to risk assessment’,
that you do. Suing for damages if
‘The law does not expect you to eliminate all risk, but you are required to protect
there is an accident is becoming
people as far as “reasonably practicable”.’
common practice, so do not allow
yourself to be vulnerable or open
to a negligence claim. The law is How to assess the risks in your workplace
very clear on what amounts to ‘When thinking about your risk assessment, remember:
negligence, so be well informed and • a hazard is anything that may cause harm, such as chemicals, electricity,
knowledgeable to minimise risk in all working from ladders, an open drawer etc
you do.
• the risk is the chance, high or low, that someone could be harmed by these and
other hazards, together with an indication of how serious the harm could be.
Follow the five steps:
Step 1 Identify the hazards
Step 2 Decide who might be harmed and how
Step 3 Evaluate the risks and decide on precautions
Step 4 Record your findings and implement them
Step 5 Review your assessment and update if necessary’
(Source: Health and Safety Executive (2006) ‘Five steps to risk assessment’.)
(This leaflet is available to download from the HSE’s website.)

Using the scale of probability, severity and danger ratings, you can clearly identify the
potentially harmful working practices and aspects of your workplace which present
the highest risks to you or to others.

The risk The probability The severity rating is:

rating is: rating is:
Low = 1–7 1 – Highly unlikely 1 – trivial injury ( no first aid required)
Medium = 8–16 2 – Possible 2 – minor injury (first aid required)
High = 17–25 3 – Probable 3 – major injury (hospitalisation)
4 – Likely 4 – major injury to many persons
Scale of probability, severity and
danger ratings 5 – Inevitable 5 – death (of one or more persons)

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 The workplace environment

Using the ratings, a risk assessment would look like this:

RISK ASSESSMENT FORM:

NAME OF EQUIPMENT:
A magnifying lamp

STEP 1 WHAT ARE THE HAZARDS?

Accident:
• placing the lamp too close to the client’s face during the
consultation
• the hinges not supporting the lamp head so risk of

Unit G20
dropping / not staying in position
• trailing wires from lamp to wall socket
Fire: if placed by window with no cover on the lens, there is
a risk of the sun’s rays being magnified, heat being produced
and a risk of smouldering /fire

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
STEP 2 WHO MIGHT BE HARMED?
Client
Therapist
All in the salon if fire occurs

WHAT IS ALREADY IN PLACE?

Lamps are covered when not in use
Lamps are not stored near windows
Equipment is regularly maintained
Extension leads used where necessary if workstation is
far away from wall socket

WHAT FURTHER ACTION COULD BE TAKEN?

Training in use of equipment
Health and safety notice put up
Fire precaution and evacuation procedures put in place

The risk rating is: 10 The probability rating is: 2 The severity rating is: 2–5

You should now begin to see how you can reduce the risk of harm by following some
basic steps, being responsible and thinking about your actions.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Key terms Reducing risk through your personal presentation

Level of competence – the limits and behaviour at work
of a person’s authority; usually the
It is your responsibility to carry out your work in accordance with your level of
extent of a person’s responsibility as
competence, workplace instructions, suppliers’ and manufacturers’ instructions and
set out in their job description and
legal requirements.
workplace policies.
Refer to Professional basics (see pages 12–15) for full information about professional
presentation. In this section you will be looking at the safety aspect of your
presentation and how it contributes to safety in the salon.

Hazard Actions to reduce risk

You – the therapist Be professional at all times.

Have short nails, minimal jewellery, safe shoes and clean, hygienic uniform.
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Follow the Health and Safety Act and be responsible in actions and consequences for both yourself and others.
Go on regular training courses to be safe and competent.
Be knowledgeable and use your knowledge: know the correct person to inform in case of an accident, who to
contact for first aid and the salon policies on health and safety.
Be as hygienic and as thorough as possible when protecting the client.
Fill out a full consultation card and carry out a contra-indication check prior to every treatment.
Never knowingly endanger others.

Think about it It is not only the employer’s responsibility to provide health and safety management,
it is also the responsibility of each employee to follow the rules.
Never exceed your own level of
competency as it may make any All beauty therapists work very long hours and are often on the go all day. They
insurance claims invalid. It might also are in a busy salon environment with other people present all the time – their own
jeopardise your own or someone clients, other therapists’ clients, other staff, outside representatives, management,
else’s health or become a risk to receptionists, cleaners and so on. If the therapist does not have a sense of personal
safety in the salon. safety and respect for the safety of others, accidents will occur.
To be safe the therapist should consider the following:
Make sure personal appearance combines safety with professionalism.
Wear shoes that are smart but comfortable. High heels are not only
uncomfortable but also not particularly stable to walk on. Open-toe sandals will
not protect the toes from damage from either spillage or impact injury.
Avoid stooping and slouching. This will prevent back problems occurring.
Have good posture and distribute body weight evenly by standing correctly with
feet slightly apart. This will prevent accidents and injury.
Always wear the correct protective clothing to shield a uniform.
Always wear gloves when using chemicals or if there is a possibility of coming
into contact with body fluids.
Always follow the correct disposal regulations for gloves and waste materials.
If an establishment provides a uniform as part of a corporate image, wear it!
Keep hair tidy and wear it short or tied back. Loose long hair may fall in the eyes
and cause eye problems.
Personal appearance should be
a combination of safety and
professionalism

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A high standard of cleanliness will ensure no cross-infection can occur. This should
Think about it
include the following:
According to the government’s
Wash hands between clients.
Labour Force Survey, between July
Keep nails short. 2007 and June 2008, around 5.8
Cover cuts or open wounds. million working days were lost to
sickness or injury. This amounts to
Do not attend work with an infectious disease.
1.5 per cent of all working days.
Do not spread cold or flu germs.
Do not wear dangling jewellery that may be a hazard.
Good conduct cuts down any risks:
Do not run in the salon or rush.
Use equipment properly.

Unit G20
Follow manufacturers’ instructions at all times.
Do not take short cuts when cleaning the salon and equipment.
Always leave the equipment ready to be used by the next person.
Do not block fire exits for any reason.
Do not deliberately endanger anyone – even as a joke.
Do not behave negligently – such as playing with fire!

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Use proper lifting procedures.
Do take responsibility for yourself, machinery and problems such as spillage that
may occur – do not expect someone else to clean up after you!

Salon security and reducing workplace risks

There are many areas to keep secure in a business.

Display materials
The premises Stock and products

Incidentals –
POSSIBLE Personal
e.g towels,
RISK AREAS safety
cotton wool

Money Equipment
Clients’
belongings

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The premises
For insurance and mortgage applications
the salon owner must have adequate
security measures in place for the salon. It
is worth consulting the local police station
for guidance. The crime prevention officer
will survey the premises and give advice
regarding the most vulnerable areas and the
most common forms of entry by a burglar.

Externally
 Deadlock all doors and windows.
Double-glazing is expensive but is more
difficult to break into – the older the
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

window and frame, the easier the entry.

 Fit a burglar alarm if possible, or even
a dummy box on the wall, which will
deter a burglar.
 Closed circuit television (CCTV) may
be available if the premises are in a
shopping area with other stores.
 Metal shop front shutters are probably
the most effective deterrent. If the
premises have a shutter system, use it.
Fit a burglar alarm if possible
Internally
Internal doors can be locked to prevent an intruder moving from room to room.
Fire doors and emergency exits should be locked at night, and reopened by the
first person to arrive in the morning.
A light left on in reception may deter would-be burglars, who may feel that well-
lit premises will make them more easily seen.
Stock and money should be locked away or should be in the bank so that nothing
is visible to entice a burglar in the first place.
Lock expensive equipment away in treatment rooms or in the stock cupboard.
Very large businesses employ night security guards to patrol their premises,
but as with alarmed infrared beams, these are not affordable for the average
small salon owner. If, however, the salon is situated within a shopping centre or
business park, night patrols may be included in the lease or purchase agreement
or offered at a set fee per year. Costs would need to be considered, but it may be
a worthwhile investment and save money in the long term.
The local police station can be contacted and the police patrol vans will regularly
check the building as part of their normal evening beat.

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Stock and products on display and in use in

treatment rooms
Of all the temptations to the thief, these smaller items may
prove irresistible. They are small enough for a pocket and are very
accessible. Unfortunately, this form of shoplifting costs many
businesses a great deal of money, as stock can be expensive to
replace and can be a big chunk of the capital outlay of a salon.
A sad fact is that the average thief may be rather closer to home
than is comfortable. Staff may ‘borrow’ an item of stock for home
use and think that their behaviour is acceptable. Also clients may
like the look of a lipstick and ‘forget’ to pay for it!
Stealing small items is referred to as ‘pilfering’; a polite word for
stealing, and stealing larger items is referred to as ‘shoplifting’.

Unit G20
Either way, it means the salon has bought an item of stock from
the wholesaler that has not been paid for by a customer, so it
has to absorb that financial loss. If unchecked, it could eventually
bankrupt the business, so tight precautions such as the following
are called for:
Small, attractive items may prove
Have one person, usually the senior therapist or senior receptionist, in control of tempting to a thief
stock and limit keys and access to stock.

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Do a regular stock check, daily for loss of stock and weekly for stock ordering and
rotation.
Use empty containers for displays, or ask the suppliers if they provide dummy
stock – this will also save the product deteriorating while on display.
Keep displays in locked glass cabinets that can be seen but not touched.
Encourage staff and customers to keep handbags away from the stock area,
usually at reception, to stop products ‘dropping’ into open bags or supply lockers
so they bags can be safely locked away.
Have one member of staff responsible for topping up the treatment products from
the wholesale tubs.
Hold regular staff training on security and let staff know what the losses are and
how it may affect them – some companies offer bonus schemes for reaching
targets of both sales and minimising pilfering. Heavy losses may affect potential
salary increases.
Bank money from the till at different times of the day and do not keep too much
money in the till at any one time.
Do not leave the till key in the till if the reception is to be unmanned for any
length of time – it is too easy to get into.

Reducing risks for staff

The salon should provide lockable storage cabinets or similar so that personal
belongings can be locked away. Handbags and purses are always vulnerable to the
opportunist thief, who may look like an ordinary member of the public, come in off
the street and be gone in no time with someone’s valuables. Large amounts of cash
should not be brought into work.

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Staff should be discouraged from wearing expensive jewellery to work. This will have
to be removed during treatments and is therefore vulnerable to loss or theft.
Large amounts of takings should be removed from the salon daily and put into a
bank or night deposit. Avoid taking the same route to the bank at the same time of
day. Someone may be watching!
Be very aware of clients’ jewellery – let them see that their items of jewellery are
placed in a bowl on the trolley and make sure you return them after finishing the
treatment. Do not risk being called a thief by slipping them into your overall pocket!
Be aware of suspicious packages left unattended – inform a supervisor and if
necessary call the emergency services. The salon should have a list of telephone
numbers by the phone in case of emergency, such as the local police station or
security guard room. This will save time in an emergency situation.
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

Make sure you are protected – do not leave outside doors open when working in a
treatment room, do not leave the till drawer open and do not be naive enough to
think that it could not happen to you! If unsure, seek professional advice from the
local crime prevention officer who will be able to advise you on both building security
and personal safety hints for staff and clients.
As a professional therapist do not allow yourself to become a victim – follow your
professional guidelines:
Do not treat a male client alone in the salon late at night.
Always work in pairs, at least on winter evenings.
Always lock up the premises together.
Be aware of where you have parked your car. In daylight that alley may look fine,
but it may not be in the dark after work.
Do not walk home alone in the dark – phone a taxi or friend.
Do not put yourself at risk in any way.

My story
Security conscious
Hi, my name is Amelia and I work in a small salon in the high street, which is quite busy. We get a
lot of walk-in customers off the street for treatments. I was just on my way out to do some shopping
in my lunch hour when I realised I needed the toilet. I left my handbag and shopping bag on a chair
in reception. I was only gone two minutes. During that time the receptionist went into the salon to see
a client – and my purse was stolen from my handbag! I just couldn’t believe it – it all happened so
quickly. I was devastated. I lost my cash, my bank cards and receipts for work, which I needed to
claim back, my loyalty cards, which had quite a bit on them, and a lovely photo of my Mum, who
died last year. I was as upset about that as much as anything. You can always replace bank cards
and I immediately stopped them with my bank so no one could use them – but you never get back
the personal things that are irreplaceable, do you?

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Health and safety procedures

Fire procedures
The Fire Precaution (Workplace) Regulations 1997 require all premises to undertake
a fire risk assessment. If five or more people work together as employees, this risk
assessment must be in writing. Employers must also take into account all other
persons on the premises, not just employees.

Unit G20
In premises of any kind, staff

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
must be aware of evacuation
procedures

There must also be a fire and evacuation procedure. In every period of one year there
must be at least one fire drill, which involves everyone. Everyone must be fully
informed, instructed and trained in what is expected of them and some people have
special duties to perform.
All employees, trainees, temporary workers and others who work in any business
must, by law, agree to cooperate with the employer so far as is necessary to enable
them to fulfil the duties placed upon them. This means cooperating fully in training
courses and fire drills, even when you know it is only a practice.
Most large training establishments will have their own policy on fire evacuation
procedures and may carry out a fire drill once a term, that is three times per year.
This is especially important with large groups of people or students, and any people
with disabilities who will need special consideration. Think about it
Take precautions with all electrical
Many fire-training exercises are organised with a fire safety officer from the local
equipment:
fire station. Often the fire engines will take part in the exercise to test their own
attendance time from the station to the premises. Everyone should be made aware of • Make sure there are no trailing
their own particular roles in the evacuation. leads to trip over.
• Carry out regular maintenance
When joining any business or establishment the new person should be briefed on all
checks to ensure machines are
health and safety issues, especially fire evacuation procedures. It is standard practice
working efficiently and safely.
to include the information in a handbook containing all the establishment’s policies.
• Follow manufacturers’ instructions.
• Follow health and safety
guidelines.

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Below is an example of an evacuation procedure.

Building evacuation procedures in the

event of fire or bomb alert
The following procedure has been agreed and must be followed. Any staff member
who does not comply is committing an infringement of the college disciplinary
code. Whenever a fire occurs, the main consideration is to get everybody out of
the building safely. Protection of personal or college property is incidental.

Raising the alarm

Anyone discovering a fire must immediately raise the alarm by operating the
nearest fire alarm and report to the controller the fire location.
On hearing the alarm the receptionist will immediately contact the emergency
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

services and then evacuate the building.

In the event of a fire being discovered when the reception is unmanned – the
premises officer on duty will contact the emergency services and assume control.

On hearing the alarm

All those in senior positions proceed to the control point, normally at a main
entrance to the building – where one person must take control of the proceedings.
All other staff: close windows; switch off machinery and lights, and close doors on
leaving the room.
Assist less able colleagues, leave the building by the nearest marked route and
proceed quickly to the appropriate assembly point. Staff must supervise their class.
Staff evacuating the building must check their locality is clear.

Assembly points
Everyone must remain at assembly points well away from buildings and clear of
access roads.
Report to control in person or via two-way radios where allocated.
Everyone must remain at assembly points until further instructions.
DO NOT re-enter the building until you are told it is safe to do so.

An evacuation procedure

Emergency procedures
Fire drill relevant to the working area:
Switch off all electrical equipment.
Close all windows.
Lead clients to a safe area and wrap them up warmly if necessary using blankets
and towels. This is especially important when the client has been having a body
treatment.
If possible, take the client’s valuable possessions with her, such as her handbag
and jewellery, but not if they are safely locked away, or if it puts the client or
therapist in any danger (usually clients’ belongings are kept under the trolley and
therefore are within easy reach).

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Be aware of the treatment being performed during the evacuation – if the client
has chemicals on the skin, it may be easier to remove them immediately. This
would need to be at the judgement of the person in charge of the workshop –
certainly a client having an eyelash tint will need to have it removed before being
able to proceed to the assembly point. Take appropriate remover and damp cotton
wool or tissues to remove products on the skin such as facemasks. While it is not
dangerous to the skin if left on, the client will probably be more comfortable and
the skin less dry if it can be removed.
Be aware of the client’s footwear, and if possible encourage the wearing of shoes
to prevent an accident occurring during the evacuation.
Bomb alert:
Follow the procedures for a fire drill.
Do not look inside a suspect package but do act quickly if an abandoned parcel or

Unit G20
bag arouses suspicions.
Gas leak:
Open all windows.
Evacuate the building following the fire drill instructions.
Do not turn off or on any electrical equipment as it may cause a spark which may
ignite the gas.

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Sensible fire precautions:
Be informed – know what to do and where to go when the evacuation begins.
Be sensible and do not panic – this will only make the client feel panicky too.
Make sure that the location of the fire bell, fire extinguishers and fire exit are
familiar.
Never ignore smoke or the smell of burning – it is far better to have a false
alarm.
Do not misuse or mistreat electrical appliances that are a potential hazard – a
healthy respect is needed.
Do not ignore manufacturers’ instructions for the storage and use of highly
flammable products that are very common within the salon.
Do be sensible with naked flames and matches or the disposal of cigarette ends
– a smouldering tip can burst into flames that will destroy the salon in minutes.
Be able to account for clients – the appointment book can be taken outside to
check which clients should be present. A college lecturer or trainer should do the
same with the class register to check the correct numbers of students are present.
Do not use a lift for the evacuation – the fire may affect the electric mechanism
which then becomes another emergency.
If you are not at the correct location for the fire evacuation, please return to the
correct assembly post or you may not be accounted for. This may mean a fire-
fighter taking risks to go back into a burning building to check – and all the time
you are around the corner!

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Fire-fighting equipment
Not every fire extinguisher is suitable to fight every fire – using the wrong one can
make the situation worse.
Only a person specially trained in the use of a fire extinguisher should attempt to
use one. Never put yourself at risk. Personal safety is more important than saving
material items that can be replaced – a human life cannot be replaced. It is better to
evacuate the building and call the fire service than it is to use the wrong extinguisher.
Fire service safety leaflets recommend you never endanger life or stay in an area with
a fire in an attempt to put it out – it is safer to leave it to the professionals.
In small premises, having one or two portable hand-held extinguishers of the
appropriate type readily available may be all that is necessary. In larger, more
complex premises larger equipment will be needed, training should be given and the
location should be indicated. This is usually in a conspicuous position on an escape
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

route, near the exit doors.

Fires are classified by the type of material that has caught alight. The class of fire
determines which fire extinguisher to use.

Class of fire Fire extinguisher

Class A: Fires involving solid materials, e.g. Extinguishers with an ‘A’ rating, e.g. 13A
wood, paper or textiles Water extinguisher, foam extinguisher, dry powder extinguisher (size according to risk)
Water extinguishers are the cheapest and most widely used, but are not suitable for Class
B fires or fires involving electricity

Class B: Fires involving flammable liquids, Extinguishers with a ‘B’ rating, e.g. 34B
e.g. petrol, diesel or oils Foam extinguisher, CO2 extinguisher, dry powder extinguisher (size according to risk)
Foam extinguishers are more expensive than water, but can be used on both Class A and
Class B fires

Class C: Fires involving flammable gases, Foam extinguisher (according to risk). Seek specialist advice
e.g. propane, butane Dry powder extinguishers are multi-purpose and can be used on Classes A, B and C fires.
However, they can obscure vision

Class D: Fires involving metals Special powder extinguishers (size and type according to risk), dry sand (quantity
according to risk). Seek specialist advice

Class E: Fires involving electrical apparatus CO2 extinguisher

Class F: Fires in cooking appliances, e.g. oil Extinguishers with an ‘F’ rating, e.g. 15F
Wet chemical extinguisher

Water with Foam Powder CO² gas

additive

Chubb Chubb Chubb Chubb

WATER FOAM POWDER
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
CO2
FIRE EXTINGUISHER
FIRE EXTINGUISHER FIRE EXTINGUISHER
HOLD UPRIGHT HOLD UPRIGHT HOLD UPRIGHT HOLD UPRIGHT
PULL OUT PIN PULL OUT PIN PULL OUT PIN PULL OUT PIN

AIM AT BASE AIM AT BASE AIM AT BASE DIRECT HORN

OF FIRE OF FIRE OF FIRE AND AIM AT
BASE OF FIRE

SQUEEZE SQUEEZE SQUEEZE SQUEEZE

LEVERS LEVERS LEVERS LEVERS

PASSED 35kV PASSED 35k

CONDUCTIVITY OF CONDUCTIV
DISCARGE TEST DISCARGE

Different types of
fire extinguisher

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A quick guide to selecting an extinguisher:

Type of fire Type of Colour Uses NOT to be used

extinguisher
Electrical fires Dry powder Blue marking For burning liquid, electrical fires and On flammable metal fires
flammable liquids
Carbon dioxide Black marking Safe on all voltages, used on burning On flammable metal fires
liquid and electrical fires and flammable
liquids
Non-electrical Water Red marking For wood, paper, textiles, fabric and On burning liquid, electrical or
fires similar materials flammable metal fires
Foam Cream/yellow On burning liquid fires On electrical or flammable metal fires
markings

Unit G20
Fire blankets are made of fire resistant material and are intended to extinguish cooking
oil fires or to wrap around a person whose clothing is on fire. A fire blanket must be used
calmly and with a firm grip. If the blanket is flapped about, it may fan the fire and make
it flare up, rather than put it out. The hands should be protected by the edge of the cloth
and the blanket should be placed, rather than thrown, into the desired position.
Never lean over the fire. Remember – if you cannot control the fire, leave the room,
close the door and phone the emergency services.

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
Fire blankets conforming to British Standard BS 6575 are suitable for use in the home.
These will be marked to show whether they should be thrown away after use or used
again after cleaning in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Fire blankets are
best kept in the kitchen or in the salon rest room, where there are likely to be domestic
appliances such as kettles, microwaves and cookers, and where small fires can occur.
A bucket of sand can be used to soak up liquids that are the source of a minor fire.
However, it is impractical to have large quantities of sand available to try to stop a
major fire, so the instructions would be the same as for fire blankets – if in doubt never
risk injury.
First aid
The Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations 1981 set out the essential aspects of
first aid that employers must address, because people at work can suffer injuries or fall
ill. It does not matter whether the injury or illness is caused by the work they do. It is
important that they receive immediate attention and that an ambulance is called in A fire blanket can be used for
serious cases. smothering a fire

First aid can save lives and prevent minor injuries becoming major ones. First aid in the
workplace is the initial management of any injury or illness suffered at work. It does not
include giving tablets or medicines to treat illness. This means that sufficient first aid
personnel and facilities should be available to:
give immediate assistance to casualties with both common injuries and illnesses
and those likely to arise from specific hazards at work
summon an ambulance or other professional help.
This will depend upon the size of the workforce, the type of workplace hazards and risks,
and the history of accidents in the workplace.

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Two aspects of first aid need further consideration:

Trainees – students undertaking work experience on certain training schemes are
given the same status as employees and therefore are the responsibility of the
employer.
The public – when dealing with the public these regulations do not oblige
clear fabric waterproof heel and employers to provide first aid for anyone other than their own employees. This
plaster plaster plaster finger plaster
means the compulsory element of public liability insurance does not cover
litigation resulting from first aid to non-employees. Employers should make extra
provision for this themselves. Education establishments must also include the
general public in their assessment of first aid requirements.

eye First aid kits

pad
eye pad with The minimum level of first aid equipment is a suitably stocked and properly identified
headband
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

first aid container.

safety
pins
First aid containers should be easily accessible and placed, where possible, near to
hand-washing facilities. The number of containers will depend upon the size of the
folded cloth folded paper
triangular bandage triangular bandage establishment, and the total number of employees in that area. The container should
protect the items inside from dust and damp and must only be stocked with useful
items. Tablets and medications should not be kept in there.

medium large
There is no compulsory list of what a first aid kit should contain, but the following
extra large
dressing dressing
dressing
would be useful:
a leaflet giving general guidance on first aid (such as the HSE leaflet
‘Basic advice on first aid at work’)

elasticated conforming crêpe conforming

20 individually wrapped sterile adhesive dressings (assorted sizes) appropriate to
roller bandage roller bandage roller bandage the type of work
two sterile eye pads
four individually wrapped triangular bandages (preferably sterile)
crêpe roller open-weave
bandage roller bandage self-adhesive six safety pins
roller bandage
six medium-sized individually wrapped wound dressings
two large sterile individually wrapped unmedicated wound dressings
tweezers one pair of disposable gloves
disposable gloves antiseptic cream or liquid
ANTISEPTIC eye bath
WIPE
Moist tissue to
clean and sooth
gauze
cuts and grazes
gauze pads medical wipes
wound
cotton wool cleansing a pair of tweezers
wipes
cotton wool.
Do not forget that if in doubt, do not treat – phone for an ambulance immediately.

Items that your first aid box should

First aid training
contain
First aid certificates are only valid for a certain period of time, which is currently three
years. Employers need to arrange refresher training with retesting of competence
before certificates expire. If a certificate expires, the individual will have to undertake a

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 The workplace environment

full course of training to be re-established as a first aider. Specialist training can also
Think about it
be undertaken if necessary.
A first aid kit should be kept in a
Records proper first aid container – an old
It is good practice for employers to provide first aiders with a book in which to record biscuit tin will not do. It needs to
incidents which require their attendance. If there are several first aiders in one be regularly checked to keep it fully
establishment, then a central book will be used. The information should include: stocked. You shouldn’t be finding
out that your kit is not fully stocked
date, time and place of incident during an emergency!
name and job of the injured or ill person
details of the injury or illness and what first aid was given
what action was taken immediately afterward (e.g. did the person go home,
go to hospital, get sent in an ambulance)
name and signature of the first aider or person dealing with the incident.

Unit G20
Check your knowledge

1 Who is responsible for ensuring gloves and an apron are 6 Your job description should have within it:
worn during waxing treatments? a) your national insurance number
a) Salon manager b) your driving licence

Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
b) Client c) your health and safety responsibilities
c) Therapist d) your qualifications listed.
d) Salon owner
7 The symbol for a toxic substance is:
2 A hazard is defined as: a) a big red cross
a) something that will harm you b) a big black cross
b) something that will kill you c) a skull and cross bones
c) something which has the potential to cause harm d) a flame.
d) the risk you take at work.
8 If there are blood spots on a wax strip, you must:
3 The two fire extinguishers suitable for use on any a) wrap it in newspaper and put it in the bin
electrical fire are colour coded: b) put it in a bin liner and put it in the dustbin
a) blue or black c) put it in the contaminated yellow waste bin
b) red and cream d) take it to the hospital for disposal.
c) blue and red
9 How many steps are there in a risk assessment?
d) black and cream.
a) Ten
4 Which of these is just the employer’s responsibility? b) Six
a) Report faulty goods or equipment. c) Five
b) Wear protective clothing or work wear. d) Eleven
c) Provide information about health and safety and
10 HSE stands for:
security.
a) Housing Standard Economy
d) Take care to ensure the health and safety of others.
b) Health and Safety Executive
5 The definition of a risk is: c) Health and Safety Election
a) the likelihood of a hazard’s potential being realised d) Human Safety Executive.
b) the risk of an accident occurring
c) the elimination of an accident occurring
d) the potential to cause harm.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

The first part of Unit G20 requires that you identify the hazards and evaluate the risks in your workplace
and gather evidence to support your work such as:
• Take part in an evacuation procedure following all the guidelines safely. This will have to be a simulation as hopefully
the building will not actually be on fire! Keep a log or diary of the date, time and exactly what happened, and the
assessor will accept this as evidence.
• Attend a health and safety training day as part of your job role outside college. A formal letter from your part-time
employer confirming that you attended the training day, dated and signed, will also provide evidence. It may be an
accident procedure demonstration, a risk assessment training day or a training day covering maintenance of equipment.
This will ensure your performance criteria – what you must do – will be covered.
• You should be able to show you can identify the possible risks of your own working practices. This means you should
immediately report a spillage in the salon, a frayed wire, a faulty piece of equipment or a blocked fire exit. You could be
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety

in the middle of a facial assessment when you notice the wire to the steamer, which you are about to use, is a potential
risk. Follow the set procedures for reporting it, and you will have an assessment for both Units G20 and B4.
In the second part of Unit G20 you must show you have taken steps to reduce any possible health and safety risks within
your own job role/responsibilities. Any of the following duties will count towards an assessment:
• If, during the course of your reception duties, your job is to decant products from large wholesale tubs into smaller ones
for use by other therapists, then make sure all labelling is correct, the storage is suitable for the product and that the
COSHH sheets are up to date. By volunteering to check these details you will collect evidence for both Units G20
and G4.
• If you are designated salon manager for a day, volunteer to carry out a risk assessment on the working salon. As well
as organising equipment and matching clients to therapists, look at equipment, working stations and staff with a critical
eye. Are there any improvements that could be made to minimise risk? Are staff as vigilant as they could be?
• Look at the bigger picture outside the working stations. Even a light bulb blowing out could be a risk if it illuminates a
stairway. Report it, minimise the risk, identify the solution. This will ensure your performance criteria will be covered.
• Be inventive. Are there risk assessment solutions that you use in your place of work that would help you at college?
For example, a better design of record cards with allergy or medical conditions highlighted, better storage facilities or a
particular training programme that you would recommend? Write up a proposal – the assessor can then investigate it
and if it minimises risk, this will ensure your performance criteria will be covered.

Think about it
Advice is available from the Health and Safety Executive.

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 Unit G18

Promote additional
services or
products to clients

What you will learn

G18.1 Identify additional services or products that
Unit GH8
are available
G18.2 Inform clients about additional services or
products
G18.3 Gain client commitment to using additional
services or products

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
This unit looks at the backbone of any successful
beauty therapy business – customer service
and meeting clients’ needs and expectations in
terms of both product use and beauty therapy
services. Keeping the client informed about all
the possible treatments and products available
within your salon is vitally important. Not only
is it enlightening for the client, allowing her to
make informed choices, but it is also essential if
your business is to survive in a very competitive
market.
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

You can help the client benefit from a Nowadays, supermarkets, local chemists and high street shops sell both skin care
range of services or products
and make-up products, so people can purchase without a therapist on hand to guide
them through their needs. This is a very competitive market and when you start work
in the beauty industry your employer will set you targets for sales and for increasing
your client base. No business can afford the luxury of standing still – to do so would
mean losing out to the competition.
Clients are more informed about what is available on the market and because of
extensive media coverage of treatments, beauty editors are more aware of salon
treatments: this combined with celebrity endorsements of brands, makes beauty
therapy a very competitive arena. Why should your client stay with you for treatments
and buy products from the salon? The answer is: Because you are knowledgeable,
caring and offer a more personal service with prescriptive skin care than an over-the-
counter store can!

For your portfolio

Celebrity endorsements for products are big business for both skincare and haircare
products. Some are genuine and the celebrities are paid to promote the products;
others are linked to products in a more subtle way: the celebrity photo is placed on the
page with a product, diet or lifestyle, which encourages the reader to believe that the
celebrity is using the product. Have a look at both a genuine advertising campaign and
one of association, and write up a critique: would the celebrity sell the product to you?
Ask family and friends. Does the power of fame link the subject of the advert to the
person so strongly that the client feels that if they use the product, they will actually
have the same super stardom? Name two examples of such products. What makes the
advert so attractive?

One of the few negative comments that salon owners make about employing
newly trained therapists is that the therapists do not feel confident enough to ‘sell’
themselves and the products or services available to the clients. Students feel
embarrassed or frightened of what they perceive as pushing themselves upon the
client.

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 The workplace environment

This unit will help you feel differently about the promotional side of the beauty
Think about it
therapy business. Don’t think of it as selling in the formal sense of the word – it
is more to do with helping the client gain as much as she can from her range of Promoting products and services
treatments. It really is mutually beneficial for the salon and the client if the client can isn’t purely about selling – it involves
make fully informed decisions on the basis of what exactly is available. The client recommending the best for your
will then be able to maximise the treatment potential with the use of complementary client and doing this will become
products. second nature to you. Not only will
the client gain more from her salon
As consumers, we all want the very best deal we can find. We not only want value treatments if she is using the right
for money, we also want to make sure our purchases are the most suitable for our homecare, but it will help maintain
needs and budget. We also want to know that we have been given the best advice, her skin between visits. You will be
cutting the benefit of her treatments
rather than feeling that we have been sold to and that we really don’t matter as long
in half if she is not using good skin
as the sale is made. The old saying ‘Buy cheap – buy twice’ is certainly true with lots
care at home.
of items, and no one wants to buy something that falls to pieces the moment you

Unit G18
start to use it. There is a balance to be struck between price, quality and suitability of
any purchase. The client will feel so much better about their purchases if they feel
supported by expert advice and guidance of how to use the products correctly, and
that they have bought exactly what they need for their skin.
Benefits for the client:
informs the client of what is best for her
offers a personal service and makes the client feel valued as a customer

Promote additional services or products to clients

empowers the client to make informed decisions about her products and
treatments
brings out the best of her salon treatments by continuing good skin care at home.
Benefits for the therapist:
helps her to focus on the needs of the client and identify what is best for her
increases her interest in the client and builds up a rapport
develops knowledge and additional training
promotes and increases experience and personal development Key terms
boosts salon income through sales. Sales – revenue from the sale of
goods and services.

Identify additional services or

products that are available
In this outcome you will learn about:
• updating and developing your knowledge of your salon’s services or products
• checking with others when you are unsure of new service or product details
• identifying appropriate services or products that may interest your client
• spotting opportunities for offering your client additional services or products that will
improve their client experience

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Reading the price list

Regular training sessions Reading manufacturers’ instructions

Using the products Reading training manuals

HOW TO GAIN
Reading media publicity KNOWLEDGE OF SALON
Modelling for senior
SERVICES AND PRODUCTS
therapists to experience
treatments
Trying samples

Asking questions of senior staff

Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

Commercial updates from

companies providing stock Staff meetings

Key terms Updating and developing your knowledge of

Salon services – range of your salon’s services or products
professional treatments and activities There are many ways to ensure that as a new therapist in your salon you are able to
available in a beauty salon or spa. identify additional salon services and products:
Knowledge is the key to being able to offer advice and guidance to clients; you must
know what you are talking about, and you should never make up what you don’t
know! Insincerity can be spotted a mile away. Should you guess, make something
up about a treatment or lie about it, your advice may be unsafe. You will lose the
respect of the client and your credibility will be in tatters. Professionalism should
be the theme running throughout your training, and integrity plays a big part in this.
Integrity means being honest, acting with honour, and being reliable and truthful in
all that you do.
Knowledge allows you to fulfil your entire professional obligation to your client.
Ignorance is not an excuse for losing a client or her interest in other treatments. Just
because you personally do not do the treatment, or have not yet trained in a certain
skill area, does not mean you cannot discuss it with your client. Don’t guess or
recommend a treatment you are not yet qualified to carry out – realise the limits of
your own authority, and be sensible. Find the right person to advise the client, even if
it means making a separate consultation with the senior therapist or specialist within
the salon. This will be seen as an investment in time rather than a waste of time.

Working with others to ensure your information is up to date

Be proactive in your learning about the services and products that your salon offers.
You need to be aware of your salon’s procedures and systems for the use of
additional services and products. Speak to your line manager about the expectations
for sales and marketing and how you can ‘learn and earn’ by recommending to
clients further services and, even if you cannot yet use them, products.

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 The workplace environment

Learning opportunities within the job include:

attending training sessions – in house and with external
companies
promotional work – designing a course of treatments suitable
for a wedding, summer holiday, etc.
making a presentation and giving it to the other staff in your
salon
acting as a spokesperson for the salon
writing a report on the benefits of a treatment for the local
paper for additional publicity
learning the price list or designing a new one
visiting a supplier to keep up to date with new launches

Unit G18
spending the day with the salesperson
showing people around the salon
stocktaking.
Learning opportunities to be gained by extending your job role
include:
standing in for a receptionist/senior therapist
shadowing/work experience

Promote additional services or products to clients

Take advantage of any training
job sharing opportunities

job rotation
modelling for treatments at demonstrations Think about it
taking part in open evenings at your salon
If you have difficulties in
attending open evenings at other salons remembering what the benefits are
watching the experts in action of a treatment or product, then make
applying for extra training courses. up some flash cards, about the size
of a postcard, and list the key points
Think about it of the service or product. Not only
will writing these down help your
Recommending products is all about timing and when within the treatment plan to memory, it will be a good way of
start. Always have eye contact, so you know the client is listening and understanding doing some revision – if you have a
what you are saying. During a relaxing facial massage is not the time to do it – you will quiet time on reception, you can look
just spoil the treatment and irritate the client! through your notes, so that you are
fully informed when you take the
Checking with others when you are unsure of client through it.

new service or product details

Seeking help and asking questions of others with more experience than you should
never be seen as a weakness – quite the opposite. Within the salon there is a wealth
of experience and knowledge. Checking with others will ensure your information is
correct and give you wisdom, which you, in turn, can pass on. (Refer to Unit G8
Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work, pages 123–48 for other ideas on
how to increase your knowledge base and how to learn from others.)

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Identifying appropriate services or products that

Try grouping similar products may interest your client
together for the client’s benefit
With a little experience and knowledge of the products and salon treatments, you
so they are aware the products
will be able to advise your client about services and products that will suit her needs,
match, for example cleanser, toner,
budget and lifestyle. For example, if your client comes regularly for a facial but just
moisturiser, or day and night cream.
cleanses her skin using soap and water and no moisturiser, she would definitely
This is known as link selling.
benefit from using homecare products – she will soon see and feel the difference
these make to the skin’s condition.
It is important that you match up client needs to the correct product, so that the
products work and the client will benefit. We have all had impulse buys and then
not used or worn them: the therapist must be sufficiently well informed to be able
to advise and instruct the client that she does need and will use the products. You
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

should always have the client’s best interests at heart and should be genuinely
interested in improving her skincare – it is not about making a quick sale and your
personal gain.
Use your intuition when discussing additional services or products, just as if you were
talking to an old friend. Develop an insight into what to mention to different clients
and which treatment or product would be most beneficial. Tread carefully – going
through the whole price list and reciting every single treatment the client could have
can be overwhelming and put her off. If the choice is too large, she may become
confused or deterred by the costs or time involved. Being aware of her constraints,
such as time and budget, will help you make an informed choice about what to
recommend. The client may not have the time to come in every week for a manicure,
or she may only be able to afford a monthly manicure. However, her contribution to
keeping her nails in good condition may be as simple as wearing gloves to do the
housework and using a basecoat and a hand cream nightly.

My story
Getting enthusiastic about products
Hi, my name is Vanya and I am a Level 2 Beauty Therapist. I have just completed
a commercial certificate in facial products with my group, as we use and sell them
in our client workshops. I feel so much more confident now about what I am telling
customers, and I really think the system of face mapping for the skin analysis is
good. We were all given the “book” which is their training manual and because I
knew we were going to have a test at the end of the training, I really swotted up and
read it every chance I got. Having a good knowledge base now of all the creams and
their benefits and features was very good for my selling skills: I never let a client
leave the salon now without giving a sample of something, and it works – they do
come back and buy it! Really, it is so good and I believe in it, that all I am doing is
recommending what I know is right – it sort of sells itself!
We were given samples to try and I have passed some of mine on to my sister, who is suffering with a few spots at the
moment. She wants to buy the products and so does my mum. It’s amazing what a bit of training and knowledge
can do – I am top of the chart for retail sales at the moment. Every month we have a prize for the best-selling therapist
and I want to win it, so that I can give the products to my mum.

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 The workplace environment

For your portfolio

Look at the additional products or services your training establishment offers. Do you
use them in your salon workshop session with clients? Pick one additional product or
extra treatment (e.g. thermal booties, a hand mask, a foot scrub) and introduce it to
three clients in the next session. Don’t view it as trying to make a sale; treat it more as
an information exercise. Talk to the clients about the benefits, and what a difference
they will see to their feet/hands/face. Be informed and enthusiastic! Check if any of
the clients books in for the treatment and make a note of it on your treatment sheet
for the client or record card. If the clients aren’t aware of lovely pampering treatments,
they cannot book them!

Spotting opportunities for offering your client

additional services or products

Unit G18
Spotting opportunities for offering clients additional products or services is easy if
you are receptive and have your ears and eyes open. Very often they will ask. Either
they have heard about a treatment from another client, or they see something going
on that they want to know more about. A special day or occasion will trigger extra
interest, such as a wedding, a party, a holiday or a Christmas function. (Refer to
Professional basics, pages 31–35, for further questioning techniques to use during
your consultation.)

Promote additional services or products to clients

In the salon, there are many opportunities to discuss the range of services and
products on offer. In particular, treatments such as manicures, pedicures and waxing,
where there is time to talk and lots of eye contact between therapist and client, are
ideal and can lead so well into other treatments. Here are a few possible links:

Treatment Possible links to suggest

Manicure Deluxe manicure, hot oil cuticle treatment, matching pedicure, nail varnish Use your product knowledge to help
or treatment purchases, e.g. nail strengtheners, base coat, top coat the client buy appropriate products
Arm wax, paraffin wax

Pedicure As above. Leg waxing, massage

Leg waxing Full leg waxing, bikini and intimate waxing, pedicures, massage

Facials Eyelash tinting, perming, eyebrow shaping or waxing

Makeover or make-up lesson
Steam treatment or hot oil mask with infrared lamp
Electrical facials, Level 3 treatments: microdermabrasion, galvanic facials or
non-surgical face lifting (although you are not yet trained in these areas,
that should not stop you recommending them, or being knowledgeable
about them!)

Other opportunities may arise from:

the client looking at the product display at reception
the client asking about a particular product that she has heard about or seen in
the media
the client observing another treatment as she is walking through the salon,
e.g. nail extensions

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

the client asking for a price list

a friend recommending a particular treatment
an open evening or promotional demonstration creating interest
a commercial company holding a training day for which you request your favourite
clients to model.
Use all of these openings as a chance to inform, educate and offer your clients the
best products and services for their needs.

Think about it
A very easy and effective way to gain additional clients is through word-of-mouth
advertising. Once you have a good recommendation from a satisfied client,
her friends are going to want to know all about it, and will want to come in
for themselves!
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

Key terms
Seasonal promotions – special Seasonal promotions
offers that change throughout the Promotions are an excellent way for the salon to create interest in products
year and are based on a season,
and services. It is important to look at the whole year and to plan ahead so
an occasion or specific time such
that no opportunity is missed. The calendar offers a number of sales
as Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day,
opportunities.
Christmas presents, summer
pampering. Season Promotional activity or discount to offer

Spring Mother’s Day – gift vouchers for treatments and pampering sessions
Get ready for summer – leg waxing, fake-tan application and pedicures
Slimming programmes and treatments for the summer

Summer Bikini bodies – waxing, tanning and pedicures

Matching manicure and pedicure in the new season’s colours
French manicures on tanned toes
Hen parties – pamper sessions, a day out for everyone with lovely
For your portfolio treatments
Put together a proposal for Wedding packages – bride and mother-of-bride pamper days
a promotion in your training
Autumn Get ready for the Christmas party season with a make-up lesson
establishment. Have a look at the
Birthday treats – gift vouchers
time of year and what is coming up,
or is there a special charity you would Repair the signs of the sun with a course of soothing facials
like to contribute to by setting up a Bonfire night party – come and learn how to look glamorous
pamper day and advertising it? Think Halloween – face painting available for children: become a witch or a warlock
about what you would need. How for the night!
would you advertise it and where? Winter Christmas parties – make-up and manicure treatments
What are the health and safety/risk
Christmas gift vouchers
assessments? How could you make
Avoid winter problems that cold does to the skin with a warming and
it a success? Be thorough and think
relaxing facial
the whole thing through: would you
have enough therapists, staff and
products to make the promotion a
success? Put it to your tutors – if they
agree, you could run it and make it a
great event!

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 The workplace environment

Inform clients about additional

services or products
In this outcome you will learn about:
• c hoosing the most appropriate time to inform your client about additional services or
products
• choosing the most appropriate method of communication to introduce your clients
to additional services or products
• giving your client accurate and sufficient information to enable them to make a
decision about the additional services or products
• giving your client time to ask questions about the additional services or products

Unit G18
Choosing the most appropriate time and method
of communication
You will need to pick the right moment to communicate with the client. This
should be when you have good eye contact with her, not when she is trying
to relax with eye pads and a face mask on, or when she is running late and
trying to get dressed. This will only irritate the client and she will not be
interested. The consultation is always a good time to ask lots of questions,

Promote additional services or products to clients

and some treatments lend themselves better to chatting than others –
manicures, pedicures and waxing give a lot of opportunity as the client is your
captive audience!
You will also need to be able to communicate easily with your clients if you
are to let them know about the services and products offered by the salon. If
the client does not understand you, then she will not be listening fully to your
recommendations. You should have enough accurate and detailed information
to help her make decisions. This will also help you to build up a good rapport
so that the client feels able to ask questions about how and when to use the
products you are suggesting.
Open questions will help draw out the client’s needs. These could include:

How long is it until the wedding/party/holiday? Do you feel ready? What
can we do to make you feel more fully prepared?
 ave you read about our special bridal top-to-toe package? How do you
H
want to look on your big day?
 hat are your worries about your party? What are you wearing? How can
W
we help you? If your client is getting married soon,
 ave you seen any pictures of how you would like to look, as a guide for make-up,
H she may wish to find out more about
bridal make-up
eyebrow shape and nails?
Do you have any particular concerns about your skin/nails that we can help with?
For a full explanation of open and closed questions, refer to Professional Basics, pages
31–33. You will need these skills to identify the needs of your clients and to communicate
fully with them – you cannot guess what they want or need! Also see Professional basics,
pages 16–24, for more information on communication and aftercare advice.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Pointing out options

If the client does not ask directly, it could be she is shy about asking, or does not
know you offer a certain treatment. Tell her all about it – and use the current
treatment to start the discussion. The consultation always provides a good opening
to talk through alternative options to the client’s normal treatments. Below are some
examples:
‘Did you know that an eyebrow wax is great for giving a clean finish to the shape and
lasts a long time? I know you have booked in for an eyebrow tidy with tweezers next
week.’
‘I notice your skin is very dry on your feet. How about a pedicure and warm paraffin
treatment to soften and moisturise the skin? We have a special offer on at the
moment.’
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

‘For your honeymoon, why not have a French manicure finish on your toes to match
your manicure. It looks lovely with tanned feet and open-toed sandals.’
By providing the link to additional treatments, you are not introducing lots of different
options all at once. The client will be pleased to receive any suggestions related
to her big event or particular concern. She will be pleased you are taking such an
interest (which you are) and will not view it as an intrusion or a hard-selling technique
(which it is not).
Remember to pick the best form of communication, too. The client may not have
time for a long chat about aftercare and sales; instead, a brochure or a handwritten
list of suggested products and how and when to use them gives her something to
refer to later on, when she has more time. If the client is in a hurry to get back to
work, she may feel rushed and not show much interest. However, a sample used
may make her think about how good the results are and encourage her to return to
you for more advice and purchasing. Verbal communication may be forgotten, but a
brochure/leaflet/pamphlet or sample won’t.

Giving your client accurate and sufficient

information
Do try to be as accurate as you can when giving information. Not only is your
Think about it
professional reputation at stake but you also have a legal obligation not to give any
It is essential that you do not give false or misleading information to the client. As a consumer, your client has legal
misleading information, directly or by rights to protect her, and you, or your salon, will be liable for prosecution if found to
implication. In all your promotional be in breach of the law.
activities you must always protect
your client, yourself and the salon’s Not only that, you will lose your clients very quickly if they have no faith in the
reputation. information you are giving them, and if the products you recommend are unsuitable
for their needs. If you give clients the right information, you will help them to make
an informed decision and ensure they trust your ability and the salon.

Salon and legal requirements

Underpinning all the product knowledge and treatment skills you have to pass on
to your clients are the legal aspects of promotion, selling and client and consumer
rights. (Refer to ‘You, your client and the law’ in Professional basics, pages 48–68.)

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 The workplace environment

The specific laws relevant to this unit are:

Health and Safety at Work Act 1974
Consumer Protection Act 1987
The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2003
Trade Descriptions Act 1968
Sale of Goods Act 1979
Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994
Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982.
Refer to Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties (pages 157–58) for information on Think about it
dealing with clients with special needs.
When you go out into the workplace
As a professional, you need to work within the guidelines of your industry and code of your salary can be boosted by
practice. (Refer to Professional basics, pages 66–68, for further information.)

Unit G18
sales commission. If you rush from
treatment to treatment without a
Giving your client time to ask questions pause and do not allow enough time
for the client to talk to you and for
It is important to give the client the time to ask questions, so choose an appropriate you to recommend products, then
moment to discuss her queries. During a treatment is fine if it is one where you can you may miss your opportunity for
maintain a conversation and have lots of eye contact. A manicure, pedicure or waxing a sales commission. Make sure your
is ideal for this, as the client is awake, upright and alert. Talking during a facial will salon system is fair and allows you

Promote additional services or products to clients

detract from the quality of the treatment and all relaxation properties will be lost. the time you need.
Do not pick moments when the client is distracted, that is when she is trying to get
dressed or pay for her treatment. Where possible, keep the question and answer
session quiet and confidential – not everyone in the salon should hear about her
future bikini wax! It is important to hold the client’s attention and focus entirely on her
questions. This will give her the confidence of knowing that your suggestions really
are in her best interests.

Gain client commitment to using

additional services or products
In this outcome you will learn about:
• c losing the discussion appropriately if your client shows no interest
• giving relevant information to move the situation forward when your client shows
interest
• securing client agreement and checking client understanding of the delivery of the
service or product
• taking action to ensure prompt delivery of the additional services or products to your
client
• refer your client to others or to alternative sources of information if the additional
services or products are not your responsibility.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

When promoting additional services or products you will need to be able to judge
client commitment, how much time she has, even if she is interested in purchasing
or not. You cannot force the client into something she does not want. With experience
you will be able to close the discussion informally if she shows no interest or is in
a hurry to leave – you cannot chase after her with products that she doesn’t want
to buy!

Closing the discussion if the client

shows no interest
While it’s important to give time and enthusiasm to the client’s
enquiries, it’s also just as important to know when to stop if she shows
no interest. If the feedback from the client is minimal, or she says ‘No
thanks, not just at this moment’, then take your cue and stop. Nothing
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

is more irritating to the client than a hard sales pitch; you will lose her
altogether if you come across as pushy.
As a double check, ask yourself the following questions:
 Am I giving the relevant information for my client’s particular
needs?
Am I explaining myself clearly, or am I confusing the client?
Am I being too technical in my explanation?
Have I chosen a good time to give advice?
When you recommend a product,
be clear whether it is in stock

My story
A snap judgement
Hi, my name is Sophie and I have a story that I am rather ashamed of, but it is a
valuable learning curve for us all, so I feel it needs to be told!
I was at the reception desk when a scruffily dressed lady walked in. She was
wearing old clothes and had bad hands – torn cuticles, cuts and very dry skin. The
lady wanted some products to help her hands. She told me, ‘I want to look a little
more decent, as I have a lunch in London to attend and I have been doing a lot of
gardening.’ I was rather offhand as she wasn’t one of my regular clients and didn’t
look well groomed. Without much enthusiasm, I offered her hand cream and cuticle
oil but did not suggest a manicure later in the week when the cuts had healed over.
I am ashamed to say I didn’t pay her much attention as I was sure she couldn’t
afford very much.
The client agreed to pay for the recommended items and handed over her credit card. She turned out to be the owner
of a large estate and had been getting her huge garden ready to receive the summer crowds who visit the estate.
She also dropped into the conversation that her lunch was at Buckingham Palace! Needless to say, I soon realised
my mistake and tried to rectify my not-so-kind attitude. The lady was very gracious and did become a regular client
in the salon. I felt like a complete fool – not because she would have spent a lot of money but because I had made
a really snap judgement and was not very professional. Who am I to judge a client, just because her hands were in
bad condition through lots of gardening?

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 The workplace environment

Review your techniques to answer the above questions

satisfactorily.
Try to make the information relevant to the client’s needs.
Make your explanation of the treatment or product crystal
clear.
Avoid being too technical – explain the benefits of the
product, not the way it works.
Stop the conversation if necessary and choose a better
time to discuss the client’s needs – this will show her that
you are aware of her time constraints.

If a client is not interested in a treatment, it may be because

she does not have the time to discuss it, because she cannot

Unit G18
afford it or because the treatment just does not appeal to
her. Knowing when to back off and stop giving information is
essential to maintaining good communication. Be ready to show clients a range of
products and/or leaflets
Not judging your client
Do not prejudge what your client may want or what she can afford. Until you open
Think about it
up clear lines of communication and discuss this with her, you do not know how best
to help her, whether she can afford a course of treatment or how much she already The way to close the discussion is

Promote additional services or products to clients

knows. While we all tend to judge one another within a few seconds of meeting, it to offer some literature, such as a
is certainly not up to you to judge a client’s financial state and decide what she can price list or a leaflet. Always make
or cannot afford. Do not underestimate a client’s commitment to the treatments – it sure your client has samples and
is not up to you to decide that your client does or does not have the time, money or promotional materials if you are
about to offer a special price or
inclination to attend her appointments.
discount.

Moving the situation forward when the client

shows interest
A client will indicate that she agrees with your recommendations in several ways.
She may:
book an appointment for the recommended treatments
purchase the suggested products
book a consultation
order a product if not in stock
put a deposit on a course of treatments
buy a gift voucher.
Be guided by the client. Once she has made up her mind, the client will clearly
indicate the route you should take: escort her to the till or to the receptionist who will
book her follow-up appointment, or fill out the purchase order for whatever product
she is having. If the item is not in stock, make it quite clear at the beginning – this
will avoid disappointment and she will keep her faith in you. Try not to recommend
a product and then backtrack and suggest an alternative once you realise that you do
not have the item in stock. That is not fair to the client and it will put you in a bad
light – it looks as though you are only after her money, rather than providing the best
possible product or service for her.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Promoting existing treatments and products

New treatments and products are always easy to recommend to the client. You may
have had training in their use, had the treatment yourself, seen the excellent results
and be brimming over with excitement and enthusiasm. This becomes infectious and
soon the cash registers are ringing and stock is moving very quickly.
But what about existing services and products? They may be seen as old hat, or just
boring and regular, and your excitement for all the new products only reinforces that.
There is a danger that the standard treatments, which are still very trustworthy and
beneficial, get overlooked.
It is worth revisiting the price list to see what treatments or products have not been
recommended very often recently. A paraffin wax incorporated into a manicure and
pedicure has lots of pamper appeal to someone who has never had one before but
can easily be overlooked if you consider it to be bordering on the mundane.
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

Key terms Your enthusiasm for Confidence in your

the product or service ability and knowledge Good
Feature – the attractive aspects
of a product, e.g. its anti-ageing
understanding
properties, designed for dry or oily of the features
skins and benefits of
Your FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE products and
Benefit – the advantages of a
communication WHETHER YOUR CLIENTS services
product or what the product is doing
skills WILL BUY FROM YOU
for the skin, e.g. exfoliator, deep
cleanser

Your sincerity Agreement on the cost

and interest in Good product
and value of the product
the client knowledge

Least-used treatments and products

A very useful exercise is to do a ‘favourites’ chart of treatments carried out in the
last month. Often a pattern emerges – a therapist may have a favourite treatment
or product and always recommend that, rather than other options. Does the top
therapist’s pattern on the chart match her passion for waxing or facials and show her
least favourite treatments less frequently?
A chart will clearly show the most common and the least-used treatments and
products. A promotional period of a month could be used to generate interest in those
trailing behind. Remember, stock sitting in the cupboard is dead money, generating
neither income nor interest if the client does not know it exists.
The same applies to machines and equipment. A client will not ask what a brush
cleanse machine does if it is sitting on the top shelf of the storeroom, with all its
related creams and washes, so she can’t see it. Dust it off, do a demonstration of
its use, revisit the manufacturer’s instructions and offer it to clients to enhance their
facial. Or think laterally and offer alternatives – have a back treatment promotion
at the beginning of the summer when clients are coming out of winter woollies and
showing off their backs in swimming costumes.

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 The workplace environment

This is how many salons improve their business: through analysis of turnover and
ensuring movement of static items. Most salons set targets, either within sales or
treatments. It is important, through regular meetings and agreed personal goals, that
you understand what is expected of you. It should be agreed at the time of your interview
what your personal goals are, what incentives there are for achieving those goals, and
what happens if you do not achieve them. (Please refer to G8 ‘Develop and maintain
your effectiveness at work’, page 123, for information on personal goal setting, how to
work with your manager and how to develop your job role for personal satisfaction.)

90
Guinot facials
80
Waxes
70
Number of treatments

Epil pro hair removal

60
Electrolysis
50

Unit G18
40
Jessica manicures

30 Jessica pedicures

20 Massages Always demonstrate the use of

machines and equipment on the hand
10 Eyelash/eyebrow
tints
0
Type of treatment

Promote additional services or products to clients

Produce a monthly chart of salon treatments to find out which are the most popular

Securing client agreement and checking their

understanding of the service or product
To get the best from the product, the client should fully understand how to use it,
when to apply it, and its benefits and advantages. For example, a rich eye cream
needs a delicate application using the ring fingers of both hands. A tiny amount of
product should be warmed between the fingers before it is patted on, starting from
the outer eye and working inwards. If too much product is applied, the eye area
absorbs it and becomes puffy. Using heavy strokes to apply it will pull the fragile skin
around the eyes causing damage. Little is definitely more in this case!
When talking through the method of application with the client, and possibly
demonstrating, look for lots of eye contact and nodding, which the client will do if
she has understood. If the client looks confused, bored or distant, you have lost her
interest. She will not use the product and may even return it.
To ensure the client has understood your instructions, remember to ask if she has any
questions or whether what you said was clear. Use the famous five questions to help
you: How? When? What? Why? Who?
Ask your client:
How do you apply this cream?
When will you need to use it?
What will it achieve for your skin?
Why do you need to use it?
Who is it most suitable for?

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

If you have provided this information properly, and the client can demonstrate that
she has understood, then she will understand all there is to know about using the
product. This will affirm her information and show you she fully understands. Write
in her record card that she has purchased the product. The next time you treat her,
ask her how she found it and if she is pleased with the results. Be interested in
her efforts and comment on the effects of her product use. This will confirm your
recommendations were correct.

Ensuring prompt delivery of goods

If, following your advice, the client wishes to purchase either a product or treatments,
you need to ensure she understands the time restraints or delivery expectations. If the
client has to wait, perhaps because it needs to be ordered, you should keep her fully
informed to avoid misunderstandings.
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

Delivery dates vary considerably. They are dependent upon the company, its resources
and stock levels, and how local they are to you. It may be a next-day delivery if the
supplier is in your area, or there may be a wait of several weeks if the suppliers are
awaiting a shipment themselves. Problems arise when the client is not kept fully
in the picture and is kept waiting. She will not be happy if she thinks she is being
‘fobbed off’ with poor excuses. Honesty is the best policy – if the client is told she
has to wait two weeks, then at least she knows and is not irritated by what she would
see as a late delivery.

Key terms If the client has booked an additional or new treatment, ensure she understands
the time restraints there too. The nail technician may be fully booked for a week in
Epilation – hair removal
advance, so the treatment is not instant. Match up the appointment booking to suit
both your client’s needs and the therapist’s column. Squeezing a client in late on a
Friday evening because you promised her that week will not make you popular with
the therapist, and there is no guarantee of a quality treatment.
In both instances, take responsibility for your actions. Ensure you
know how to order the correct goods, or give the task to someone
who does, and take a little effort to juggle the appointment system
to suit everyone. A little consideration and kindness goes a long way
and is always appreciated.

Referring clients to alternative sources

There are times when you cannot recommend or offer the client
what she needs. This may be because you are not yet trained in
the particular treatment or because your salon does not offer that
treatment. If you think another member of staff may be able to help,
do ask their advice. Should the client require a sunbed session and
you do not have one, or want a specialist epilation treatment and
you do not offer it, then recommend somewhere else, but only if you
know of a reputable therapist.

You could offer to give a short presentation to

colleagues on new products or services

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 The workplace environment

There is always the possibility that you will lose the client altogether of course,
but she may approve of your professionalism and remain loyal to you for all other
treatments. That should be viewed as the best of compliments to your customer
relationship.
If there is sufficient demand and the salon is losing clientele by not offering the
required treatment, this is also the time to recommend to the salon manager or
owner that the salon should investigate the possibility of introducing it to expand
business opportunities.
Do some research yourself on the cost of equipment and training, profit margins and
expected returns, and then do a short presentation to the staff. You will learn a lot
and so will they – as well as being impressed with your initiative.

Unit G18
Check your knowledge

1 The most important reason for offering aftercare advice 6 A bar chart of top-selling lines will allow
is to ensure: you to:
a) you get good sales commission a) keep stock levels high to meet sales
b) the client gets value for money b) buy lots of other stock to the same level

Promote additional services or products to clients

c) the effects of the treatment last longer c) get rid of old stock on the shelf
d) the client spends more time with you. d) spend more money on other stock.
2 Additional training in the workplace will give you: 7 A calendar of promotions will allow you to:
a) more confidence through knowledge a) plan staff holidays
b) more holiday allowance b) organise activities to promote seasonal sales
c) more weekends off c) organise a work rota
d) promotion. d) plan ahead for expansion.
3 If you make up information because you do not know 8 Link selling means:
something, you are likely to: a) putting all the products in one bag
a) increase the risk assessment on products b) linking the products up to the computer
b) increase the damage costs to the salon c) linking the products up to the till
c) put the client at risk through poor information d) linking sales to each similar category.
d) increase the advertising revenue for the salon.
9 The best time to talk to your client about offers is
4 It is important to gain full information about the client’s when:
needs so you can: a) they have a face mask on
a) sell her lots of products b) when they get dressed
b) take lots of money through the till c) when you can make eye contact
c) make lots of sales commission d) on the phone.
d) give her the best products for her skin type.
10 A feature of a product is:
5 You should make sure your client knows how to use a a) what it does to the skin
product by: b) its good qualities
a) asking her to buy a magazine in which it appears c) its price
b) telling her to watch the adverts d) its value.
c) asking her questions about it before she leaves
d) making her sit a test.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

Sources of evidence could be the following:

• On the client’s record card, make a note of any products purchased, any recommendations you make for the future, and
other services that would be suitable for your client’s needs.
• During your consultation, or during the course of a treatment (where suitable), let the assessor hear you recommending
suitable products and treatments. The client does not necessarily have to have them; rather it is your verbal
recommendations that form the evidence as well as the correct knowledge that you are imparting.
• Design a questionnaire to show client knowledge of treatments. This will indicate how little or how much the
client knows about her options. You could then highlight staff weaknesses in knowledge of products or services and
recommend a training day. For example, of the 17 clients having a manicure this week, only five of them realised they
Unit G18 Promote additional services or products to clients

could have a warm oil treatment to help dry cuticles.

• Design a poster to promote a particular product or service, perhaps with a seasonal theme – a free nail polish
application with every Christmas makeover, or a pedicure polish carried out with every Spring waxing treatment. Make
the poster as informative as you can to attract new business.
• Design an aftercare and homecare leaflet for a treatment, suggesting suitable products for home use that will carry on
the good work of the salon treatment.
• Organise a training seminar for other staff or students where you promote a particular treatment or product that you feel
confident in, which perhaps is not selling as well as it could. Make it very ‘hands on’ – get others involved in using the
product and demonstrate how to promote it.
• Copy and enclose in your portfolio the order form or delivery note that you may have had to complete if a product was
out of stock or it was a special order.
• Include any evidence of outside selling seminars or lectures you have attended while in employment. Enclose any
training certificates from commercial training you may have received.
These suggestions will show you understand the requirements and mechanics of selling and linking your treatments with
retail sales. It is not only important you learn how to do it but that you record it, too.

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 Unit G8

Develop and maintain

your effectiveness
at work

Unit GH8
What you will learn
G8.1 Improve your personal performance at work
G8.2 Work effectively as part of a team

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
This unit is all about you and your professional growth, which
will, in turn, lead to your personal growth too. As your skills
develop, so will your confidence. This gives you courage to
tackle new training and experiences, which provide certain self-
assurance. Before you get to that stage, you have to go through
a professional growing period during which you start as a student
and end as an employee.
As part of the transition from student to potential employee,
you have to step outside your own sphere to realise that you
are joining a business and that it is vital to contribute to the
effectiveness of that business if you want to stay employed.
This is not always an easy change to make: as a student the
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

only responsibility you have is for your own learning, and the
Your appraisals will contribute to your framework for this is already put into place by your tutors. This unit will help you take
personal development more responsibility for your own development in the workplace – your employer will
expect this, and you will no longer have the safety cushion of asking your tutor all
the time! However, just like all skills, the more you take responsibility for your own
development, the better you will become at it, and the more training you have, the
more confidence you will gain.

Improve your personal performance

at work
In this outcome you will learn about:
• identifying your own strengths and weaknesses and discussing them with the
relevant person
• finding out more information from relevant people to perform a task when the
instructions you have are unclear
• seeking feedback from relevant people about how you can improve your
performance
• asking your colleagues for help and taking opportunities to learn when they are
available
• seeking help from relevant people when you are unable to obtain learning
opportunities relating to your work
• regularly reviewing developments in beauty therapy and related areas
• agreeing realistic work targets with the relevant person
• regularly reviewing your progress towards achieving your agreed targets
• using the results of your reviews to develop your future personal development plan.

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 The workplace environment

How to become employable at work

To learn how to become a good employee and develop a business focus, we will look
at the differences between your life at the moment – as a student – and the working
life of a therapist in a busy salon.

A student – your life at college An employee – your life at work

In the safe college environment you are the main focus In the world of work, you are not working with your best friends (in fact,
of attention: quite rightly, college is all about you you cannot choose your work colleagues and there is no guarantee that you
working towards your portfolio collection. will like all of them or that they will like you). There is a shift away from you
You are developing your skills through practice and personally towards what is expected of you.
receiving lots of positive feedback from your tutor. You Instead of working towards a qualification, you are working to increase a
also become used to working with your friends, you client base and helping to grow the profit of a salon. This is an ongoing
know your lecturers or trainers very well. There is little process – no one in business can afford to stand still. A business quickly dies
business pressure as you are concentrating on gaining if it is not nurtured and developed by enthusiastic, motivated staff giving a

Unit G8
your qualification, rather than building up a company. professional service, which separates your salon from its competitors.
This might seem like pressure, as you may be concerned It is not your business yet, but by being the very best employee you can, you
about completing all your practical ranges, but you can gain invaluable experience for when you do own your own salon or go
are well supported and if you are non-competent in a into a mobile business. You can then become a good employer to others.
treatment, you will have the opportunity to practise and As an employee, there is an unwritten expectation that you will be punctual,
then repeat it at a later date. highly motivated and leave all your domestic problems at home in order to

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Tutors are well trained in supporting learners and concentrate on the business. You cannot let your first client down because
will take into consideration if you are having an ‘off you didn’t get up early enough.
day’. Learners bring many problems into college: for So, you can see there is a real shift away from your personal needs to those
example, child care problems, lateness to class because of the business you are joining. However, becoming a good employee does
of transport delays, and so on. This is allowed for, to an involve your growth: of skills, confidence and ability. Certain tools are needed
extent, and your assessments may be altered to reflect to nurture and cultivate this growth. A good manager will guide you and
your needs. It is not that easy in the workplace! help you develop your new skills as long as you play your part too.

Be customer focused The skills required of you

Be hardworking
Your own strengths
and weaknesses What your job role is
Provide quality
Be warm and friendly
products and
services The level
How to
Be self- AS A of your
develop
motivated THERAPIST, IT TO DO THIS, responsibility
Be safe and your job role
IS IMPORTANT YOU NEED TO
TO REMEMBER responsible KNOW
Who to go
Be dedicated TO How to work to for advice
and loyal with others
Be flexible and guidance

Be conscientious Training What support you

Be professional
and show procedures can expect from
at all times
commitment your employer

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Carrying out your job role to salon and National
It is a fact of life that no one gets to Occupational Standards
choose who they work with unless
When you first start work in a salon, it is very important that you have a full
they own the salon! It isn’t like a
understanding of what exactly is expected of you; only then can you carry out your
college/training environment where
duties well, and to the best of your abilities.
you are very close to your best friends
and tend to stick in little groups. What are National Occupational Standards?
You may enter an established salon National Occupational Standards (NOS) are the beauty therapy standards that all
that has a variety of employees with students taking a Level 2 qualification work to. They cover all the practical ranges
different backgrounds, skill areas and within each unit, or areas you must cover. This gives you a good practical grounding
ages, who may have more experience in each area of work, in turn making you very employable. In fact, employers have
than you and may have been in the a great deal of influence over what topics are included within the standards. They
job role for many years. Be open consult with Habia (Hairdressing and Beauty Industry Authority), and all training
and receptive to what they have to establishments nationally teach to those same standards, giving equality and
teach you – learning doesn’t stop
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

uniformity of learning. Carrying out practical skills using the correct procedures is not
when you leave college. You should
only professional, it is also essential for health and safety. Deciding to take short cuts
never stop learning, whether it is a
or ignoring the safe methods will invalidate insurance cover and leave the therapist
new skill or the skill of getting on
open to negligence charges.
with people – even if you would not
choose to socialise with them, you So, the training is the same wherever you are in the country, and employers have told
do have to work with them. Working the trainers what they expect from a new employee. Because your training has been
with others is a hard lesson to learn, so thorough, you have the confidence to apply for jobs.
and is something that you will be
expected to do. For your portfolio
Every time you use your assessment book, you are automatically working with
the National Occupational Standards. Every time you take an assessment and are
given verbal and written feedback on your progress, you are making your own
developmental plans. Your tutor may also give you action plans on what you need to
do to complete your unit.

Keep all your feedback sheets together – they are an important part of your evidence.
You may not always be competent in every treatment, but your feedback charts your
development and you will be instructed on what to do to improve your performance.
It may be that you give a very good treatment but are not yet within the commercial
time for that treatment. Next time, you could concentrate on timing and become
competent. That shows excellent progression and development, and you will have the
evidence to prove competency.

Additional knowledge
Visit Habia’s website at www.habia.org and look up the guidelines for the beauty
therapy industry. Habia also offers information on career advice, the latest
business developments, salon safety and guidelines for hygiene and waxing, and
all the latest legislation. It also provides revision and learning materials and holds
forums for students’ comments.

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 The workplace environment

Salon standards
Your salon standards of behaviour and work philosophy will be the same as
the NOS and you will be expected to carry out every treatment to the highest
standard. However, as you develop a commercial understanding of products, the
manufacturer’s recommendations for certain products may differ from the NOS, or
the method in which you were trained. Be flexible and follow the manufacturer’s
instructions when using products – providing you have received a certificate of training
from the company, your professional association or federation insurance will still
cover you. (Refer to Professional basics, pages 65–68.)

The Government Minister for Education sets out the policies for further and higher
education.

Unit G8
The Quality and Curriculum Authority (QCA). This is the government body that regulates
all the qualifications, which are reviewed for authenticity and equality. Awarding Bodies
must submit their qualifications to QCA for approval.

The Hairdressing and Beauty Industry Authority (HABIA) work with Awarding Bodies to set

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

the standards. These are drawn up via consultation with employers who know what the
market trends are.

Awarding Bodies can then plan and print assessment books and written papers for
students.

Your college or training provider can then decide which Awarding Body to go with. The
The people involved in setting and
college will be inspected and approved, and will then receive the support it requires to
interpreting the National Occupational
offer beauty qualifications. Standards

For example, many companies offer very good

manicure/pedicure training using their products. It will
differ from your basic manicure training at college,
as you are following the company’s recommended
procedures. Do not be frightened of learning new
techniques – there is more than one way to do
things. As long as the company fully trains you to its
standards and provides a certificate of competence
to allow you to use its techniques, you are covered
by your professional indemnity insurance. In most
commercial training there is a practical skills test and
a short written paper to prove you have understood
the theory of the techniques: even on a short one-day
course, expect both tests.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it
Do not think that if you have seen another therapist using the product, it is acceptable
for you to attempt a treatment in the same way. You will not be covered by your
professional indemnity insurance if you are not commercially fully qualified. This could
be expensive should damage occur and the client decides to sue you or the salon. It is
not worth the risk.

Performing your task – salon job roles and

procedures
Key terms
A good salon, and certainly the larger health farms or salon chains, will provide a
Job specification – a list of tasks job specification as part of your contract. You then sign the contract, which not only
or roles that the job holder will lays down the working terms and conditions, such as annual holidays, but also gives
be expected to do as part of their
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

a framework of duties that you are expected to carry out.

employment.
Smaller salons may do this orally at your interview. However, there is a danger that
you won’t take it all in at once – a written list of duties is much easier to refer to.
Think about it Speak to your salon manager and gain clarification on what you are expected to do on
When you first start in a salon, it is a daily basis and how this fits in with the rest of the team. If you don’t do something
usual to be in a junior position – you because you are not aware it is part of your job, at best you will be perceived as lazy
may have the correct qualification, or not a team player, at worst you could endanger clients, especially if your job role
but you do not yet have the same involves sterilisation and hygiene procedures.
experience as a more senior therapist.
It is likely that you will spend at Taking opportunities to learn
least some part of the day assisting
with treatments and ‘shadowing’ a (Refer also to Unit G18 Promote additional products or services to clients, pages
more senior person. You will also be 108–09, for more tips on how to take opportunities to learn your expected tasks.)
given the more menial tasks in the
salon, or certainly take part in the
rota for toilet cleaning, setting up Regular training
for treatments and general tidying Job shadowing sessions
up. This can be used as a valuable Regular staff
method of learning. meetings
Whatever your task, if you tackle it Magazines
with enthusiasm and energy it will be
done well, and your endeavours will Watching
be noticed by your manager. Trade shows OPPORTUNITIES TO and listening
LEARN

Watching Asking questions

demonstrations
Modelling for new
treatments Commercial training
on new equipment

You can find many opportunities to learn the tasks you will be expected to do

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Unit G8
Attending beauty trade shows or
exhibitions will keep you up to date

Opportunities to learn should always be taken if they present themselves in the form
of a formal demonstration or watching an experienced member of staff work – we

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

are never too old to enhance our skills and learn something new. Enthusiasm and
passion for learning will soon be picked up on by your manager and this will help you
to develop. The more you learn, the more confident you will become, and the positive
cycle will continue. Being interested in all aspects of the business means you have
more knowledge and information to offer clients; even if you are not trained in that
area you will know who to refer them to. Ask the famous five questions (Who? What?
When? Why? How?) and you will soon develop a confidence in salon life.

Organisation
Most successful salons – the ones that take the most money and are the busiest Think about it
– are normally very well organised. The salon will run like a well-oiled machine, I look – I see.
with everyone knowing what they have to do, tackling the jobs with enthusiasm and I listen – I hear.
care, and working together as a team to make the working day run as smoothly as I do – I understand.
possible. Therefore, the most organised managers are often the most productive.
A salon with a rota of jobs with names beside them, and ticks when they are
completed, is giving clear instructions to the staff about expectations and essential
jobs, without which the salon would cease to function.
Imagine the salon running out of towels because a junior did not turn the laundry
around, or running out of couch roll, products or tissues because the manager did not
make the order last week.
If you understand the importance of your specific jobs, you very soon feel that you
are performing a vital function within the wheels of your industry. For example, you
may be asked to count stock because a stock check is needed for stock levels. If you
run out of a good selling line simply because you couldn’t be bothered to do the
paperwork, you are costing the salon money in lost revenue.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Agreeing your job role and being comfortable

with it
Do make sure you know what you are going to be doing, where the equipment is to
carry out your tasks, and how your responsibilities relate to the team. If your job role
is not explained properly, or you do not really understand it, your only option is to
ask! Do not keep quiet – it could lead to real misunderstandings. Do not make the
mistake of nodding and agreeing to what is being said, and then going home thinking
‘I didn’t understand a word of that!’
Do not sign an agreement to your job role and duties if you are unsure of the
implications.
Knowledge is very comforting and prevents worry. If given an area of responsibility,
make sure you know what is asked of you. A clear understanding of issues and
requirements makes for an unruffled operation and prevents confusion.
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Be competent. Do the job as well as you have been trained to. Do not attempt to
bluff through a job that could put a client or colleague at risk. This comes back to
knowledge – do not attempt a job you have not been taught to do.
Skills and knowledge can be kept up to date through regular training, reading trade
journals, attending beauty trade shows or exhibitions and through the media. Be
enthusiastic to learn new skills and regard it as a challenge rather than a chore. The
more skills therapists have to offer, the more employable they are.

My story
Beauty therapy at sea
Hi, my name is Victoria and I trained in Level 2 and then Level 3. After a year’s salon
experience I joined a company that provided staff for cruise ships. My beauty therapy
job has taken me all over the world!

When I first left college and went to work in the salon, I was just so tired every night.
College was great; we finished most days by 4 o’clock and we got a morning off
and one late start – so it was quite a cushy time. When I went into the salon and
had clients booked from nine in the morning until six or seven in the evening, it was
non-stop and I was lucky if I got a lunch break. However, I did learn a lot from my
colleagues and made some great friends, too. I did lots of commercial training with
different companies, which gave me lots of confidence as I gained more experience.
Then, when I did my sea training and had to take a seaman’s safety course (everyone
on board has to), I thought being in the salon was easy!

Working on cruise ships taught me so much: I had to do presentations to large groups of people about what the salon
had to offer – I was really nervous the first time as I had never used a microphone before. However, after doing a few
presentations, my colleagues would grumble I was hogging the limelight and never wanted to get off the mike! It was
certainly very long days, but on days off in the Caribbean we would swim with dolphins and go to beach barbeques.
Well worth the hard work – I would recommend it to anyone. College gave me a really good career.

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Flexibility is a skill worth cultivating. Try to accommodate

the client who arrives without an appointment with help from
colleagues. Do not make her feel it is just too inconvenient or
that she is stupid to even ask. Reschedule the appointment
if you cannot help at that particular time. If a client is late
for her appointment or there is an overbooking, then do
the same. Rescheduling of appointments can work both
ways – clients may have to be juggled into other time slots
due to staff sickness. If this is done in an open, genuinely
apologetic manner, most clients will be just as flexible. If
a client changes her treatment booking, again be flexible. If
time permits, and the client’s needs can be accommodated,
then do so. The receptionist may need to be made aware of
the change so she doesn’t double book the time slot, but
flexibility is the way to keep encouraging new business.

Unit G8
Knowing when to ask colleagues
for help
It is just as important to know what you cannot do, as it is to know what you
can do! To maintain a hierarchy within the salon, there has to be a person in

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

charge who takes responsibility for the larger problems in the salon. Dealing with
complaints, banking the takings and ordering stock may be some of the duties
you are not expected to take part in. There is a good reason for this – you may not
have the knowledge or people skills to handle a serious complaint, or not enough
stock knowledge to predict what the salon is going to need in the next month.
Some things are best left to those who have the experience and get paid for
taking on that extra duty. Always refer to those in a higher authority and involve
management in decisions or judgements that you are not experienced in. For
example, giving away complimentary treatments may only be done by the
manager. If no one was coordinating gift vouchers, the business could suffer a
severe financial loss.
Accept that you are not able to perform certain tasks or duties, and be aware of
the limits of your own responsibilities – the only exception to this is health and
safety, which is everyone’s responsibility. (For information on Identifying your own
strengths and weaknesses and discussing them with the relevant person, see
page 136.)

Contracts of employment
All responsible employers have a contract of employment, which has a
section on discipline, the possible consequences of breaking your contract of
employment and the route to a better performance at work. Most salons expect
a certain amount of commercial professional development, and their contracts of
employment allow time away from salon duties for additional training (see page
135). The salon will often agree to help fund the training, provided the therapist
agrees to stay in the salon employment for a fixed period of time – say a year. It
is a good way of gaining commercial training without the personal expense.

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It is always good to know the basis of your employment. There is usually a scale
of disciplinary action, which can vary from a verbal warning for, say, continual
lateness, to instant dismissal if caught stealing or physically assaulting a client.
Rather like in a college, a good salon has to have discipline and rules and
regulations to function.
Minor indiscretions are usually discussed and may result in a good telling-off,
and provided it does not happen again, there are no major consequences. A poor
standard of work, or a regular occurrence such as absenteeism, may result in pay
being stopped or bonus incentives being withdrawn.

Your rights as an employee, and salon grievance and appeals

procedures
Major problems need to be sorted out using the salon grievance and appeals
procedure. It is important you are aware of how to use it, should the need arise.
Equal opportunities laws are designed to give everyone the same rights, whether
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

they are defending or justifying their actions, or appealing against unfair or

biased judgements. This is much the same as when you are a candidate taking
assessments. If, as a candidate, you do not agree with the decision your assessor
has made, there is a format for appeal, just as there is in employment.
The bigger cases of employees suing their employer are reported in the national
media, as judgement against employers for unfair dismissal or other charges often
results in large amounts of money being awarded, and is seen as newsworthy.

Employee rights
Employment law is very specific in many areas. Regardless of whether you are
employed full or part time, or are on a fixed-term contract, you have the right to:
a written statement of employment
pay and itemised pay statements
payment on medical suspension (when you are unable to work through illness)
reasonable time off for antenatal care
statutory maternity leave and statutory maternity pay
return to work after a full period of maternity leave
parental/paternity leave
paid adoption leave
four weeks’ paid holiday, and daily and weekly rest breaks
request flexible working hours
time off for public duties
time off for trade union duties and activities
statutory redundancy payment after two years’ continuous employment
time off to look for work or arrange training during a redundancy notice period
time off for family emergencies
statutory notice of termination of the contract of employment
complain of unfair dismissal
be treated fairly and in accordance with proper procedures.

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You also have the right not to:

Think about it
suffer unlawful deductions from pay
Each of us must take responsibility
be dismissed for asserting a statutory right
for our actions, and we are liable for
be unfairly discriminated against on the grounds of sex, age, race any damages that occur if we do not.
or disability Insurance cover will be void if it is
be dismissed for trade union involvement or taking action on health and proven that legislation or salon rules
safety grounds. have been broken, so you must be
aware of the limits of your own role.
Qualifying periods of employment are needed as follows:
minimum period of notice – one month
not to be unfairly dismissed – one year (there is no qualifying period
where a breach of contract or discrimination occurs)
written statement of reasons for dismissal – one year
redundancy payments – two years

Unit G8
statutory maternity pay – 26 weeks (at the 15th week before the expected
date of birth).
These are the basic legal guidelines for employment. They are designed to protect
you as an employee. However, employment law is complex and subject to change,
so always seek professional advice before deciding on action if you are considering a
court case.

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Additional knowledge
Does your salon have an equal opportunities policy? Most small businesses do
not have a written one. However, all the salon’s written policies and procedures
should have equal opportunities running through them. Review these and see
if there is any discrimination that you feel should be eliminated. Advice on
discrimination is available from the Equality and Human Rights Commission –
have a look at its website.

Agreeing realistic work targets

Being commercially aware
The old saying ‘Time equals money’ applies to treatment times as well as your
preparation time (refer to Professional basics, ‘Treatment planning and preparation’,
page 25).
Most therapists are perfectionists in their approach to any treatment: a leg wax has
to be the best the client has ever had, the make-up application a work of art. This is
highly commendable – except that if it takes several hours to achieve, the treatment
time is not commercially viable.
Commercially viable treatment times are part of the criteria of student assessment.
You have to try to reach a happy medium between an excellent treatment and a time
factor that is realistic in the world of work.
Not only does it cost the salon money if you take too long (you could have squeezed
another treatment into the extra half hour that you ran over time) but you are also
infringing upon the client’s rights as a consumer. The Supply of Goods and Services

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Act 1982 (refer to Professional basics, page 62) states that the person providing a
service (such as a beauty therapist) must:
 charge a reasonable price
 give the service within a reasonable time
 give the service with reasonable care and skill.
The aspect we are concerned with here is the time it takes to carry out a treatment, so
this means no two-hour manicures.

Salon targets and treatment times

Most price lists contain a description of the treatment, the product used and the
length of time each treatment will take. This is the guide for the customer, who can
then allow enough time to relax and enjoy the treatment. It is reasonable, within the
law and the commercial viability of the salon, to expect that the service will actually
be carried out in that stated time.
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Of course, there is a little give and take – the client is running late, she falls asleep
during her facial and needs waking up time, or your appointments are overrunning
slightly. However, if the client is in her lunch hour and has to dash back to work,
having had a rushed treatment which she really didn’t enjoy, you may have lost your
customer altogether. It is also well within her rights to complain. Experience will
speed up your technique – the more you use your practical skills, the more automatic
they become. It is easy to spot students who have a Saturday job in a salon,
because they are quicker at treatments, have good customer awareness and good
communication skills! Remember that practice makes perfect: more senior
therapists are able to carry out the treatment while chatting to the client, clearing
up as they go and producing excellent results. It will come to you, the more
experience you gain.

Productivity targets and timescales

We all react well to incentives and praise – for most domestic animals (and small
children!) training is based around rewarding good behaviour and ignoring, or
punishing, bad behaviour.
We want, and should have, goals to work towards. We then feel we have achieved
something knowing that all our efforts will be recognised, and we benefit from all
that hard work. This applies in all types of work.
Beauty therapy is no different. A keen therapist will want to increase her client base
and product turnover, if she knows that not only will her work be rewarded with
praise, but there is an extra incentive to do so.
Targets should be realistic and achievable if they are to work. They should be
mutually agreed between you and your manager, with a set target over a defined
period of time. This could be a month, every two months or every quarter of the year,
depending upon how you both feel it works best. Short-term goals are
often the favourite: they feel more achievable and reinforce the work ethic when
reached. This target setting will be both personal, for your own growth and
development, and commercial for the salon – sales targets, number of treatments
per day and so on.

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There are many benefits to staying

Profitable for within the treatment time
the salon Satisfied customers
leading to repeat
You are more business
employable

BENEFITS OF
STAYING WITHIN
THE TREATMENT Targets reached
No stress TIME meaning bonuses
will be paid

Unit G8
No rushed
No backlog of
treatments
customers waiting

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Rather than view this as a negative aspect of work, most therapists look forward
Think about it
to the challenge, knowing that they can only benefit by trying their hardest to
achieve their target. Most salons have an incentive for achieving targets, which can It is important to know your
be anything from free products or a free treatment to a weekend break, shopping productivity targets and the
vouchers or even a trip abroad. If you read the trade magazines, you will find some timescale for achieving them so
fabulous prizes given by commercial companies, rewarding a therapist who has you can plan ahead and become
comfortable in your job role. If you
become therapist of the year or salesperson of the year.
were to leave a large sales target
It is important that you try to achieve your targets: it not only keeps you employed, until the last week of the month, you
but it makes you very commercial and gives you invaluable experience should will be putting additional pressure on
you decide to run your own salon or develop a mobile business. Only doing yourself and may not perform as well
two treatments a day on a mobile beauty round is soon going to put you out as you could. If you pace yourself and
of business. plan your targets in an achievable
manner, you will be less pressurised

Improving your performance and identifying and are therefore less likely to put
pressure on your clients.
training needs
Improving yourself requires self-awareness and analysis. It’s not easy to look outside
yourself and see yourself as others do.
As you gain experience in a salon, your performance improves. You should also Key terms
specifically target your improvement, which is rather like setting a training programme
Productivity – the amount of
for an athlete before the Olympic Games. If the athlete does not push the boundaries
work achieved or a measure of a
a little more every time, the performance will stay static so will not be good enough
worker’s efficiency.
to beat the competition.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

How am I doing How can I become a How can I reach my target

in my job role? better employee? this week/month?

What would my clients/ How can I develop my

manager/colleagues say job role throughout the
about me? QUESTIONS TO ASK
working day?
DURING
SELF-APPRAISAL
How many regular
Am I a team player?
customers do I have?

Do I have job Do I work well with

Do I give clients a really satisfaction for a others and am I Am I giving one
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

good experience? job well done? easy to work with? hundred per cent?

Self-analysis is essential for your Self-analysis and self-development are essential for your growth and maturity as
development as a therapist
a therapist within a salon environment. This is often referred to as professional
development. Some companies provide a commercial professional development
folder – rather like a record of achievement. All the training certificates and
Think about it qualifications can be kept in the folder, and it helps you spot where your gaps in
training may be.
Training and assessment should
be viewed in a positive light – they
provide opportunities to learn and Identifying your own strengths and weaknesses
progress in personal growth and If a therapist keeps making the same mistakes again and again, and clients complain
the maintenance of good working or stop coming into the salon altogether, this is a strong indication that something is
relationships. wrong. Often, with experience, it is easier to be reflective and spot our own mistakes
It is important to react in an and then change the action, or reaction, to break the cycle of behaviour. Sometimes
optimistic way to any feedback or it is not so easy to be inward-looking, and this is where a good manager will help by
review. giving regular work-related reviews. This is called an appraisal.
Nobody likes criticism, but it is As your practical skills grow and your confidence develops, you may find some
important to listen carefully to what treatments harder to master than others. This can become a training cycle: the
is said. treatments you enjoy and do well you want to do more of, but the ones you find
difficult to get to grips with you stop practising because you do not feel comfortable
with them. This forms a good basis for your strengths and weaknesses analysis.
Is there a topic or treatment that you are sailing through? That will be one of your
Key terms strengths. You may also count being good with people, enjoying the client sessions
Appraisal – a performance review and earning lots of tips!
of a job role, usually carried out
Now look at any topics or treatments you are not doing a lot of, and may be falling
yearly.
behind on. These would be considered your weaker areas: the ones that need
some work. You may not know how to operate the till, so you avoid volunteering
to cash up at the end of the session. However, your weaknesses will not go away
by themselves. Look at them in a non-emotional manner. Why is this happening
and how can you correct it? It may mean shadowing someone who is good at that
particular skill, but sometimes you may just have to tackle the problem head on with
supervision. You may need more demonstrations, more practice or more instruction.

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The appraisal
For your portfolio
Appraisal or team reviews should take place regularly, perhaps once a month or every
three months. Copy out this self-assessment form
(or ask your tutor for one) and use it
The appraisal should be: to analyse your own performance.
at a mutually agreeable time, not an inconvenience to either party
constructive and open, not conducted in fear or terror of job loss
objective and as non-personal as possible
a review for both parties, not just a performance judgement
constructive and positive.
The appraisal process should leave the employee feeling enthusiastic and not depressed.
Many large companies provide both self-assessment sheets for the employee to fill in
throughout a set period, and a joint review sheet to be completed with the manager, to
help improve performance. A self-assessment form can contain whatever the employer

Unit G8
or manager feels is relevant to the job role. Here is an example of a common format:

Salon name: Beauty Within, The High Street, Sale, Cheshire LA13 7PQ
Date: July 2010
Position held: Junior Beauty Therapist

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Therapist: Jasmine Abrams
Self-appraisal
Please add comments on how you feel you are progressing in each area listed. Thank you.

Appearance Good. I do try to look professional every day. I like the new uniform and it is
comfortable and easy to wash.
Absences Could be better, as I have had a week off with flu this month. I haven’t had any
more time off.
Time keeping Could be better. I have been late 5 times this month.
Job performance Good. I feel my regular clients always ask for me, and I have worked hard
this month. Since I did my training I have really enjoyed doing more facials and selling
products.
Sales Good, as above. My sales are from my regulars. We all love the new product range.
Strengths I am confident with my treatments and I especially enjoy facials. I am outgoing and
get on well with others and I feel I am progressing as I should.
Weaknesses Time keeping. I have missed my bus quite often in the mornings. They aren’t that
regular and I can’t drive to work every day as it would cost me a fortune in parking.
Any areas of change I have been in the wet area putting clients in the sauna this month, as
Jane seems to have the flu bug that I had and is still off sick.
Staff development request I would like to go on an eyelash perming training day if possible, as
we have been asked for the treatment by our regular clients.
Action plan for the next review To improve on time keeping and do my course.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Here is an example of the salon manager’s appraisal of Jasmine:

Salon name: Beauty Within, The High Street, Sale, Cheshire LA13 7PQ
Date: July 2010
Position held: Salon Manager
Therapist: Jasmine Abrams
Professional / technical knowledge and understanding
Excellent – your skills are current and you show a great understanding of the work in the salon.
Your technical abilities are commercial, delivered with enthusiasm and a thorough understanding of
your subject area.
Quality / accuracy of work and performance Again, excellent. I appreciate how much care and attention
goes into all areas of your work and how much effort you put into ensuring accuracy.
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Time / task management This could be better, Jasmine – your time keeping is not good. I know you have
transport problems, but we cannot afford to let down the first client of the day and then it makes you
late because you are playing catch-up all day.
Team working skills Jasmine, your team working skills are very good and you are a valued
colleague to all who work with you.
Problem solving / decision making You are not yet able to make decisions on your own as a junior
staff member. However, when you have had a bit more experience, it will come. It is good that you
understand your level of responsibility and you do always ask and clarify, which is very good.
Communication skils Excellent. Your communication with everyone is outstanding. You are outgoing
and social and have a lovely client manner. Your client base for regulars is growing nicely and
people are beginning to ask for you.
Leadership and management skils N/A at this time
General performance Your general performance is very good and I
eg am pleased with your progress in this six
– self motivation months. The training has been good. I will pay
– initiative for you to do the eyelash perming course and
– commitment we will run a promotion on it for the rest of the summer.

Think about it
A self-assessment appraisal is not just about achievement within the job role and the number of sales that
have been completed – that is really only a part of being a therapist (even though an important aspect of
remaining profitable). It is also about short-term plans and development of the individual and it opens up
many areas for discussion of future plans between a manager and an employee.

It should highlight how well the individual is coping within her job role and whether the salon is asking too
much of an employee. It also provides an opportunity for the therapist to offer her opinions on improvement.
It should be viewed very much as a two-way discussion, not a telling-off for a bad performance at work.

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 The workplace environment

Linked into the appraisal system is the setting of targets for the action plan to
Think about it
improve performance at work.
Some companies ask for anonymous
The SMART rule peer reviews where you are asked to
Follow this simple SMART rule. Targets should be: write an appraisal on a colleague or
S = Specific a manager. Always be professional
Have particular aims in mind rather than too grand an idea. Set a goal specific to you. and objective. This is not the time
For example, I want to complete two assessments each week. to air personal grievances like ‘she
always makes Jo a coffee but not
M = Measurable me!’. A peer appraisal also reflects on
Make sure they are aims you are able to measure with a start and a finish. you and how you think, so don’t be
Assessments can be measured against NVQ performance criteria and ranges. You rushed or attack the person you are
must know where you are now, and where you want to be. For example, product writing about.
sales might be on average £50 per day now, and a 10 per cent increase would take
that up to £55 per day.

Unit G8
A = Achievable
Do not set an aim that cannot be realised. A short-term target may be to complete an
NVQ unit by a certain date.
R = Realistic
Doing ten treatments per hour is not realistic – be sensible with your aims. For
example, how long will it take you to cover all the performance criteria and ranges in

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

one unit?
T = Timed
For the target to be achieved there should be a timescale for you
to aim towards. For example, by next month I will improve my
timekeeping by 50 per cent; by Christmas I am going to have my
portfolio for G8 ready to be signed off by my assessor.

A joint review
The self-assessment form provides you with the opportunity to identify
your own strengths and weaknesses and to set your own personal
targets.
A joint review with a relevant person, that is a manager, assessor or
tutor, can then identify whether your personal targets are realistic and
achievable using the SMART formula. These targets can be either short
term or long term.
Short-term goals are easier to measure and judge. They can bring a
very positive glow to the therapist who achieves them and that will
encourage her to go on and improve further. A short-term goal for our
therapist Jasmine, from the self-assessment form on page 137, is to
complete an eyelash-perming course and gain her certificate, and so
offer her clients another service. This is rewarding and achievable.
Long-term goals are not so easy to measure and may be harder to
keep in view. They require much more dedication to achieve. A long-
term goal for Jasmine may be to gain two years’ salon experience
and then apply for a job as a therapist on a cruise ship. This is still
achievable but will take two years. Jasmine can look at a number of
different things to achieve her goals

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

For your portfolio

Companies also use peer appraisals for teamwork and to check how everyone gets along. In pairs, using these
headings – professional and technical knowledge, communication skills, team working skills, problem solving and decision
making, self-motivation and quality of work – conduct a peer appraisal on each other. Write a short paragraph, be
constructive and fair, and keep a copy of your peer appraisal. Put a copy of the appraisal of you in your portfolio of evidence.

Remember, this is not reflective practice: that means it isn’t how you think you are doing, it is someone who works with
you reflecting upon your performance, but it is a very valid form of appraisal.

Short-term goals are like a carrot dangling on a stick! They provide incentive and
reward. Lots of short-term goals can also help achieve a long-term goal, which is
also very satisfying, and can help you get where you want to go!
For example, Jasmine could apply any of the following to help her get to work on
time:
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Buy an alarm clock and set it at an earlier time.

Ask if any other member of staff could share a ride with her, perhaps sharing
petrol costs.
Put an advert in the local shop for someone from her village who works in town
and would be able to offer her a car share on a permanent basis.
Change the appointment-booking system at the salon so that Jasmine starts at
9.30 am when she can realistically get to work, and then either finishes half an
hour later or has only a short break for lunch.
Try cycling to work and get fit at the same time.
Any number of these possible solutions would help Jasmine achieve her goal. Now
fill out your own self-assessment plan and see if you can offer your own solutions to
your problems. Think clearly and try to view yourself objectively.

My story
Appraisals in action
Hi, my name is Kim. I have been a manager-owner of a beauty salon for about ten years in
partnership with another therapist. We have 12 staff and the salon is always busy, with a good
turnover and we are making a profit. When we first started, we kept changing staff; now they
are happy to stay with us, and we all work well together.
One of my jobs is to hold staff appraisals, and it really makes a difference to them.
When we’re all working hard, there often isn’t the chance to say how well they are doing.
Although new employees are nervous of the appraisal system at first, they all agree
that by the second appraisal they view it as a positive thing and try to outdo one
another in sales competitions and hitting targets.
We came up with a target plan which was quite easy to achieve, so there are bonuses and incentives for sales and we
have an ‘employee of the month’ reward, too. Some of the team have made some excellent suggestions on how to
improve the business, and everyone is loyal and hard working. I won’t have any trouble or lazy people working for us: it’s
too stressful without that!
The staff also get a chance to appraise my role and how we are getting along – it is a very good way to keep
communication open with staff, in a non-judgemental manner.

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 The workplace environment

Reviewing developments in beauty therapy

As well as doing treatments well, you must keep up to date with trends and
innovations within the industry.
Clients and customers are very aware of the latest treatments, as media coverage Key terms
of every aspect of beauty treatments is extensive, from Botox® injections to the Botox® – the brand name for the
latest in organic face creams. Beauty editors are sent hundreds of samples and non-toxic botulinum toxin. When
given treatments to promote the latest fashion within beauty, so that a favourable injected into the muscles, particularly
report gives free publicity in newspapers and magazines. Advertisements in fashion of the face, it prevents movement,
magazines also keep clients aware of the latest releases, so expect your customers to causing certain wrinkles to disappear
ask for them in your salon. completely.
Promote – to encourage sales
You should ask your salon how it keeps up with the latest trends – going to trade
through publicity or advertising.
shows in the major cities is an excellent way of seeing demonstrations of new
equipment and products by commercial companies. Be warned, though – the

Unit G8
commercial sector is always after new salons to join its sales list, and you could
end up changing products or your supplier just for the sake of change. If your salon
has a line of products that is popular and sells well, rather than changing brand, ask
the sales representative to call. In a staff meeting they could go through the latest
emerging trend and give samples or a demonstration.
Joining in national competitions is also a good way of meeting like-minded

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

professionals and sharing good practice. You may be in opposite corners for a make-
up competition, but watching someone like Bobbi Brown give a make-up master class
or winning a competition will inspire those who can only stand back and watch in
admiration! This can only help to raise the standard of skill levels in the industry, and
to motivate and enthuse all who take part.

Work effectively as part of a team

In this outcome you will learn about:
• a greeing ways of working together to achieve objectives
• politely asking for help and information from your colleagues, when necessary
• responding to requests for assistance from colleagues willingly and politely
• anticipating the needs of others and promptly offering assistance within your
capabilities
• making effective use of your time throughout your working day
• reporting problems likely to affect salon services to the relevant person promptly and
accurately
• resolving misunderstandings with your colleagues in a helpful way at the time they
happen
• being friendly, helpful and respectful in the contact you have with colleagues.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Working together to achieve objectives

(You will need to read the information in Professional basics on good
communication skills, pages 16–21, and on treatment planning and
preparation, pages 25–28, in conjunction with this section.)
To work well with others we must first analyse ourselves. This is a
breakdown of how we see one another, and what we are judged upon:
The old saying ‘Actions speak louder than words’ is true!

Communication and working together

When you work in a salon, you may have a manager who supervises
what you do, or you may have junior staff who you guide through the
working day. Good communication means being able to get on with
all your co-workers.
When working under supervision, you should:
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

 accept that someone is in charge

  take instructions and act upon them
communicate effectively
 take responsibility for your job role and do it to the very best of
your ability.
Team members need to respect and
Working together:
help each other
means supporting each other, not being in conflict with one another
gives the salon a good atmosphere, which the client senses
provides a reliable service
gives effective results
includes the ability to listen.
Think about it
Communication is a two-way process and the ability to be an effective listener
Being a team player involves offering means:
lots of support, getting assistance
knowing when to stop talking and listen to what is being communicated
when you need it and never letting
other team members down. Do you listening with interest and understanding
consider yourself a team player? providing encouragement and confirming you have taken in the conversation
nodding or agreeing with the point raised.
Professional staff hold the key to an effective, friendly and efficient salon. These are
Think about it the skills with which they do it:
Part of being a team player means good communication
working with others to achieve knowledge of client’s requirements
common goals. Attend staff meetings
competence
so you can all agree how to work
together to achieve your joint aims. initiative
Be willing and polite if requested to responsibility
work with someone on a project or identification of own strengths and weaknesses
event. It costs little to be friendly,
flexibility
helpful and respectful and these are
the traits of a good employee. teamwork.

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 The workplace environment

Good communication between colleagues will build rapport, which will be reflected in
the smooth running of the business. 55% What you do
(Actions)
Initiative means taking the first step or action of a task without being prompted to do
The way you say
so. If a job needs doing, do it without being asked. This will prove to your employer it (Behaviour)
7%
that you can be relied upon to work effectively without having to be prompted all 38%
What you
the time. say (Words)

Be responsible for all your actions. Also take responsibility for mistakes and take
appropriate action to minimise damage – do not try to cover up mistakes as this will
only make things worse. Verbal
Good eye
skills –
Identification of your strengths and weaknesses allows for professional growth and contact –
what you
the development of skills. This should not be seen as a personal attack, but as an demonstrates
say
opportunity for constructive guidance and evaluation of performance. A supervisor, interest
manager and colleagues can carry this out in staff review sessions and appraisals.

Unit G8
Teamwork is essential for any group of people working together.
COMMUNICATION
Teamwork skills – what makes a good team
To be part of a team takes patience, a willingness to help each other and respect for
the others in the team. Respect cannot be bought; it has to be earned through hard Good
work and commitment. listening skills Clear
– ensures written
While a little competitiveness may be healthy in the salon (for example, the person skills

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

understanding
achieving the most retail sales in a month wins a prize), a person determined to
undermine her colleagues at every opportunity could not be considered a team player.
The consequences may be a build-up of bad feelings between staff, resentment and
Good,
ill-will – all of which are very bad for business.
open body
As a vital part of the team you need to know: language
who is who within the salon
who is responsible for what Communication is a two-way process
who you should go to if you need information or support.

Beauty Therapist wanted

for busy salon:
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Phone 012345 56789 part of a team

A good team needs:

an appropriate leader who is fair but decisive
enthusiastic, committed team members
good listening skills and willingness to exchange ideas

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

clear objectives and sense of direction

For your portfolio
a good balance of planning and action
Do some research into job roles
and responsibility in your own salon good communication
environment. Who is responsible for clear roles (you know what you are supposed to do)
stock, who for booking appointments flexibility and tolerance
and who for replenishing towels and
the right number of people
blankets? Produce a flow chart to
remind you of each person’s job title, the right mix of skills
what the job role involves and who a safe environment to try things, make mistakes and learn from them
they are directly responsible to. a sense of humour!
Team spirit can be lost when:
group members feel that one is favoured more than others
one member of the group works on her own and refuses to join in with the team
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

there is a breakdown in communications

group members are unwilling to be flexible and tolerant of others’ mistakes
there is too much work for too few people
job roles become blurred and people encroach upon areas they should leave to
others
the team is not managed properly and resentment builds up.

Will support and

Takes opportunities for help others Will ask for help
self-development when they need it

Can identify
A GOOD TEAM Is cheerful and
their strengths
MEMBER polite at all times
and weaknesses

Can organise their Is someone who you

time effectively can go to for guidance

Various skills are required to make a good team member

Think about it
A bad atmosphere seeps into every corner of the salon, and the clients soon pick up
on a feeling that something is not right. Any bad mood will undo the good of any
treatment and spread like a poison and make the clients feel uncomfortable. Tension
and ill-will between therapists will cost the salon money. Harmony and positivity are so
much more relaxing for staff and clients alike. No one likes to work in an atmosphere
of animosity or resentment.

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 The workplace environment

Think about it
To be a fully rounded team player, you should always consider your co-workers. Think
ahead! If you are organised, can you help others? If you know that your colleague has
a wax treatment first thing in the morning but is running late, you could anticipate
her needs and put on a wax pot to heat up for her when you do your own. Offer
assistance when you can and cultivate the art of being helpful and kind without
needing to be prompted. This should also make it easier to ask for help from others
when you are in need.

Dealing with conflict

If you have a problem or are experiencing working relationship difficulties, what
should you do?
First, tackle the problem without sulking or using angry body language and a

Unit G8
surly tone to show your displeasure at someone. Try to keep a sense of proportion.
Gossiping, spreading rumours or moaning achieves nothing; nor is it helpful to
your cause.

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

Shouting is never a good way to resolve relationship difficulties –

do not tackle problems while you are still angry

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Secondly, think carefully, and do nothing while you are still angry. It may be that
on reflection you realise you are in the wrong. An apology is then appropriate, and
while your pride may be hurt, it will defuse the situation. It is important to learn
by your mistakes and move forward, not repeating the mistakes. If you have acted
thoughtlessly or caused upset without realising it, you need to make amends, and
will be a bigger person for recognising that fact.

Negotiation and mediation

Often a frank, private word between the two upset parties is all that is needed to clear
the air. Ask the person you are in conflict with to discuss the problem, stay calm and
apologise if necessary. This will avoid prolonging the dispute. A feud that drags on for
weeks is so much more difficult to resolve than one that blows over in a day or two.
You can always be civil and polite and start with a ‘sorry if I have upset you over this
last week or so, please can we talk this through ...’
If you really feel you cannot work with the person you are in disagreement with,
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

or feel uncomfortable or intimidated, then you must report your concerns to your
manager. The manager will probably call you both in and hold a meeting where you
can both air your views in a private but controlled environment. This again gives you
the chance to put your case forward in a calm manner and present the facts as you
see them.
The manager may wish to talk to you both individually first and then call you in
together. You may find when you hear the other side of the story that you can quickly
work out a solution – you may even end up laughing about the situation.
However, if the problem is of a more serious nature and you require further action,
you must approach your manager in confidence and expect total privacy while you
discuss your conflict. If the matter requires outside intervention, then you must be
prepared to substantiate your allegations – if, for example, another member of staff
assaulted you, or a staff member was stealing from the salon.
Cases of serious misconduct will, and should, be taken very seriously, and the matter
should be taken to a higher authority, but such cases are few and far between. Most
conflicts tend to be minor, with concerns over shirking responsibilities or not doing a
job properly, or having lots of time off work, which puts others under pressure.

Working closely with your manager

and colleagues will give you
confidence

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 The workplace environment

Check your knowledge

1 What does CPD stand for? 6 A self-assessment appraisal is your chance to:
a) Continuous professional development a) reflect on how your colleagues are working
b) Constant professional development b) complain about how badly everyone treats you
c) Caring personal development c) criticise your boss and working conditions
d) Constant personal development d) reflect on your job role and improve your performance.
2 When setting targets they should be: 7 Trends in business mean the latest:
a) TIDY a) fashions
b) SMART b) magazine articles
c) ORDERLY c) treatments and products
d) NEAT. d) hair styles.
3 What does NOS stand for? 8 When working with others, actions speak louder than:
a) National Occupational System a) behaviour

Unit G8
b) Nationwide Occupational system b) words
c) National Occupational Standards c) body language
d) National Order Students d) aggression.
4 A contract of employment will tell you: 9 Good communication skills will build:
a) when to get to work a) rapport with colleagues
b) what your job roles will be b) a pay rise

Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

c) how you should be trained c) a licence for you to say what you like
d) which bus to catch to work. d) more friends.
5 A productivity target is for: 10 When faced with a problem in the salon you should:
a) helping you be productive in work a) go straight to your manager and tell her
b) incentives for sales b) write it all down and post the letter
c) helping you work faster c) try to sort out the problem with the person in a calm
d) helping you work harder. manner
d) go straight to the salon owner and complain about
the manager.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

You cannot use any simulation within this unit, but the evidence can be gained quite easily. Remember to keep
all paper evidence of any actions, showing you have actively taken part in developmental activities at work.
Your assessor will observe your contributions to effective teamwork on at least one occasion which will be recorded.
To cover the ranges you must:
• take part in opportunities to learn from colleagues and other relevant people
• actively participate in training and development activities
• actively participate in salon activities
• set targets for productivity and personal development
• offer assistance on a one-to-one basis and in a group.
Evidence could be gathered in the following ways.
•  bserve a senior student carrying out a treatment that is on the salon price list that you are not yet able to do, write a
O
Unit G8 Develop and maintain your effectiveness at work

report on it and then discuss it with your class, passing on the information you have learned. An assessor could observe
your class discussion (very useful for key skill evidence, communication level 2).
•  ttend a training day given by a commercial company and pass the trade exam at the end of the day – eyelash
A
perming, new facial products or commercial nail training is ideal. Keep the exam paper and your certificate of
competence as evidence.
•  ake part in a one-to-one review in your tutorial period with either your tutor or subject lecturer. Mutually agree the target
T
achievement date for your assessment progression, for example ‘by October I will have finished all my practical waxing
assessments’. Both sign and date the target date and when achieved, sign again. Include your evidence book with the
assessment signed off.
• Include your treatment page from the salon, highlighting your column and indicating how many treatments you gave
and how much money you took in a day. Write out a target on the page for the following weeks that includes an
increase of 10% for both treatments given and money taken.
•  sk your salon lecturer to start a ‘salesperson of the week’ award. Have a table in the appointment book of who took
A
the most sales in both treatments and products. A small prize could be offered to the winner, either a free eyelash tint
or a nail varnish. The table would show evidence of you trying to achieve and better your previous target.
•  olunteer to become salon manager for your practical class and help your therapist colleagues set up and tidy up their
V
treatment areas. Deal with problems as they arise. Keep a salon logbook of all activities within that salon session and
your contribution.
Remember that your assessor is looking for evidence of your professional growth and ability to learn. This may be an
ongoing process, and although you will be observed only once, your evidence should show progression over time and
demonstrate how you have developed your skills.
Be enthusiastic, take part in any training that is offered and seek advice from people with the right experience who know
more than you do. Even learning from your technician how to clean a wax pot properly can be viewed as a training
experience. Soak up all you can, and this unit will present all the evidence you need.

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 Unit G4

Unit GH8
Fulfil salon
reception duties
What you will learn
G4.1 Maintain the reception area
G4.2 Attend to clients and enquiries
G4.3 Make appointments for salon services
G4.4 Handle payments from clients

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
In this unit you will explore all the areas you need to learn
about in order to become a successful beauty therapy
receptionist. The reception area and receptionist are the
first to be seen by the client as she enters the salon, so a
warm and inviting entrance with a confident and effective
receptionist is essential.
First impressions really do count – and they become lasting
impressions, so it is vital that they are positive. Reception
is the heart of any salon. It needs to work properly and
have the right impact on clients. It should be a place
of tranquillity, with order and tidiness being the key to
functioning efficiently.
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

All visitors should be made welcome and treated with

equal courtesy, so that no one feels neglected or ignored.
You should acknowledge clients as they appear, even if you
are unable to deal with them straight away. Every client is
important to the salon, no matter what the enquiry may be
– they should all be given equal attention.
Receptionists need to be in control of
paperwork and booking systems
You will need to learn your own salon’s guidelines for dealing with general enquiries
and more specific problems as they occur. You will also have to gain knowledge
about each treatment, how long they take and linked services offered, as well as
the system for booking appointments. All of this information will enable you to
offer a professional service, guarantee client satisfaction and allow maximum cost-
effectiveness to your employer.

Maintain the reception area

In this outcome you will learn about:
• e nsuring the reception area is clean and tidy at all times
• maintaining the agreed levels of reception stationery
• ensuring that product displays have the right levels of stock at all times
• offering clients hospitality to meet your salon’s client care policies.

Reception is key to the whole functioning of the salon – it will soon grind to a halt if
the receptionist is poorly organised, books appointments incorrectly and is untidy.
The therapists depend upon appointments being booked correctly, with the right time
allowed for each treatment. The receptionist needs to be able to produce the correct
record card, the right stock request and the correct stationery to be able to order a
Key terms
product for the client. That means being tidy, in control of paperwork and having a
Stock control – maintaining thorough knowledge of the treatments as well as good stock control.
sufficient levels of stock, such
as products, consumables and Refer to Professional basics, ‘You, your client and the law’, pages 60–62, for the
stationery, for the salon’s relevant legislation concerned with selling retail products.
day-to-day needs.

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 The workplace environment

My story
Spa receptionist
Hi, my name is Siobhan, and I’m the receptionist in a busy spa. I run the appointments for
12 therapists, who all have different areas of expertise. It is my job to ensure their days run
smoothly and the clients gain the maximum benefit from their treatments. If I were to make
a mistake with the bookings, it would have a huge impact on the smooth running of the
salon and the therapists would get very agitated.
My other role is to be the ‘face’ of the salon. I am the first point of contact for the clients,
either face to face or on the phone, so I need to be calm, smiling and polite at all times.
A client can even tell over the phone if you are not smiling! I also need to keep up to date
with the treatments, services and products offered by the salon to ensure clients receive the
treatments and products that are the most suitable. I enjoy my job as a receptionist. It is
varied and I get to meet lots of interesting people.

Unit G4
Ensuring the reception area is clean and tidy
During the course of the day a reception area can become untidy just like a living
room at home: the magazines and papers soon get messy, a few coffee cups may
be scattered around on the table, the odd coat is thrown over a chair, and the

Fulfil salon reception duties

carpet is in need of a run over with the vacuum cleaner!
Think of the reception as part of your living area, with your clients as your guests,
except that new ones are appearing more often than at home. At work, as at
home, the living area takes regular upkeep to ensure it always looks clean and
orderly.
Potential untidiness may be created by:
clients’ coats not being put away in a cupboard
clients’ umbrellas being left in a heap
magazines and papers that are not kept in a rack or in a neat pile
dirty coffee cups or water tumblers that are left on the table
tables with dirty marks or stains
delivery boxes or product trays lying around causing obstructions A clean and tidy reception area is inviting
a messy floor area covered with crumbs or dust to clients

record cards being left out on the reception desk.

The key to being tidy is having the correct storage and being able to put things in their
correct place. A salon should have a coat cupboard, an umbrella stand, a magazine
rack, a table that is easy to clean and low-maintenance flooring. Suitable colours,
which do not show the dirt, also help – all white, for example, would soon look
grubby and would not be easy to keep clean.
Be careful though: there is a compromise to be found between being so house-proud
that you hover over the client, waiting impatiently for the coffee to be drunk so that
the cup can be washed up, and not tidying up until the end of the day when the mess
has accumulated into a big job.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Tidying up should be carried out with minimum disruption to clients and at moments
when the reception is at its quietest. This might be when there is a natural lull in
client traffic flow, as they have gone into their treatment rooms. Do not attempt to
vacuum around the clients when the reception is busy. Save the bigger jobs, such as
floor cleaning, for morning preparation or evening tidying.
Morning preparation for the day ahead should include:
switching on the lighting, both overhead and in the display cabinets
putting out the day’s newspapers
getting the coffee pot ready, filling the kettle and filling up sugar and milk
containers
checking the appointments for the day and being ready to receive those clients
putting the float money in the till
emptying the dishwasher and putting cups away ready for the day
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

collecting and sorting the post.

Ongoing duties throughout the day should include:
keeping magazines tidy by putting them back in their rack
removing used cups and glasses and washing them up or putting them in the
dishwasher
putting away record cards returned by the therapists
topping up the kettle, filling the tea caddy, etc.
wiping up spills on the table as they happen
dusting around when quiet.
Evening tidying will include:
leaving the reception area ready for the next morning
putting on the dishwasher
vacuuming the floor or other suitable cleaning for your type of flooring
polishing all surfaces
removing out-dated papers or magazines
emptying the tea/coffee pots to avoid an unpleasant smell overnight or over the
weekend
filling any gaps in the display cabinets
clearing the reception desk of all the day’s paperwork
tallying up the till and emptying the takings
switching off all lighting.

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 The workplace environment

Maintaining levels of stationery

A message pad for
Menus of refreshments all communication Treatment dockets recording
the day’s activities

STATIONERY NEEDED
Stock check sheets
AT A RECEPTION Retail dockets for
sales of products

Till cashing-up sheets Product price lists Service price lists

Stationery is vital to the smooth running of reception. Running out of stationery will

Unit G4
cause staff to use scraps of paper, or not write the information down at all, therefore
forgetting vital information. Lack of the correct paperwork will affect all staff. Sales
commission may be lost as the treatment and sales cannot be recorded properly. This
will affect staff wages, and will not make the receptionist popular.
Vital messages may not get to the correct person, and appointments or business
may be lost if there are no price lists to give out to potential clients. This is not a

Fulfil salon reception duties

professional image to project. It is much better to order stationery well in advance,
right down to ordering the toilet rolls! This will ensure the smooth running of all
reception functions.

Ensuring product displays are stocked

Retail sales will always boost a salon’s profit margin. They are a key factor in
enhancing the benefits of clients’ salon treatments by the use of the correct products
at home. Therefore, running out of a popular line of stock or having poor displays of
products neither makes good business sense nor gives the reception a professional
Think about it
look.
Whichever display type is used, the
By taking regular stock checks, the receptionist can see exactly what is required. She products need to be locked up to
will know which products are most popular and sell well, and which are slow moving avoid potential theft. Security should
and may require a promotion to boost sales. be an important factor
Keep product displays simple but clean and neat. No one is going to be tempted to
buy a dirty pot of cream, or one which looks as if it is past its sell-by date. (Refer to
Unit G18 Promote additional products or services to clients, pages 105–122, for
For your portfolio
more information on this topic.)
Research the display cabinets and
Good product displays stands that are available from various
Products are usually displayed in one of two ways: stockists. You may need to look
on the internet or in salon supply
By product – if there are many products in the range, then use the display
magazines. Decide which would be
cabinets as storage and display the products in a logical order, by size or by
the most suitable for your salon area
type – all cleansers together, all toners together and so on. Display them by
and which gives you the most scope
height and size so the client can easily compare the value of buying the larger, for displaying your products and
economical size (the larger the product, the better the saving – always a good displays.
selling point!).

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

By design – display the products for an attractive effect using ‘dummy’ boxes
with nothing in them. Organise products in an artistic display using flowers,
ribbons or even nail art gems to complement the colouring of the display cabinet.
The boxes are usually clustered to form a small display within a glass case, and
stock is held in a cupboard underneath for easy access.

Display products for an attractive

Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

effect

Offering clients hospitality

Client care and hospitality are all about treating your client as you would wish to be
Key terms
treated yourself. No matter how good the salon treatments may be, if the client feels
Hospitality – being welcoming, rushed, unwanted or is made to feel uncomfortable in any way, you will lose her
warm and friendly, and ensuring that business. Your salon will have a client care policy on the correct way that clients are
the clients’ needs are met by offering to be greeted, both on the phone and in person. This will cover making appointments,
refreshments or magazines.
handling payments and dealing with complaints, as well as where you store clients’
coats and belongings while having a treatment and the offering of beverages in the
salon.
There is a fine line between being professional, yet friendly, and being too familiar
and possibly careless with your client’s feelings. The old saying that ‘familiarity
breeds contempt’ is true in business: regardless of how long you have known your
clients, you must remember they are still paying for a service and deserve the best
For your portfolio
of care. The beauty therapist often learns quite personal, intimate details about her
Plan a summer promotion to client, and there is a danger that this information could lead to a familiarity that is
promote waxing and pedicure inappropriate.
treatments and a cabinet display.
Design a poster promoting the Good client care and hospitality will ensure your clientele returns to the salon
special offer to enhance your display. regularly, as they feel welcomed, pampered and cosseted.
You could link this to the research Refer to Professional basics, pages 25–28, for treatment planning and preparation,
you have conducted on local salons which is all part of your client hospitality, pages 31–35 for other factors that
and department store displays. contribute to client care, and page 24 for how to handle complaints.

Secure, attractive, Seasonal – in keeping

easily maintained with any promotion
PRODUCT DISPLAYS
MUST BE

Displaying products
Effective product displays will pay that are in stock Clean and tidy
dividends in increased sales

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 The workplace environment

Attend to clients and enquiries

In this outcome you will learn about:
• a ttending to people promptly and in a polite manner
• correctly identifying the purpose of enquiries
• confirming appointments and promptly informing the relevant person
• promptly referring enquiries which cannot be dealt with to the relevant person for
action
• recording messages correctly and passing them to the relevant person at the right
time
• giving accurate information clearly
• giving confidential information only to authorised people
• balancing the need to give attention to individuals while ensuring others are not left
without attention

Unit G4
The client’s first impression of the salon is often formed by the way she is greeted
rather than just the décor. Receiving clients into the salon is a little like greeting a
guest into your home. The hospitality and friendliness should be the same. It may be
the client’s first or twenty-first visit; the polite and welcoming greeting should be the
same. All visitors should be made welcome and treated with equal importance. This
is achieved through verbal and non-verbal communication, good listening skills and
questioning techniques. (These topics are fully covered in Professional basics, pages

Fulfil salon reception duties

16–21 and 31–35.)
It is important to maintain a balance between giving the correct amount of attention
to individual clients and your responsibilities towards other clients during busy trading
periods.
In this section you will look at good practice in handling the wide range of clients and
their enquiries – a vital requirement of a successful business.

Handling enquiries
The approach to clients and visitors can be summed up in a simple word: PLEASE. How to approach clients and visitors

Posture This should be good, both to give a good impression (slouching gives the impression of boredom or not caring) and
to protect the spine.

Listen Listen with your whole body, not just your ears. Look as if you are listening. Eye contact encourages the talker to
continue and facing the visitor shows you are giving her your full attention. You are saying to your visitor ‘you are
important to me and the salon and I give you my full attention’.

Expression This should be welcoming, open and positive. You are not there to challenge the visitor or make her feel threatened.
Smile and look as if you are pleased to see her.

Appearance These should reflect total professionalism and mirror the high standard of the salon.
and attitude

Speech Speak clearly. Your speech should not be patronising in any way, and free of any technical terms a client may not
understand.

Eagerness to This is a positive quality and very flattering to the client. Use it wisely to give attention without appearing insincere.
help others

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The visitor should be dealt with as soon as possible and the right action taken or
Think about it
the appropriate staff member informed. Eye contact and a pleasant greeting are
Making a client angry is a sure way important. Introduce yourself to the visitor as you ask about the nature of the visit, for
of losing them. example ‘Hello, welcome to Blissed Out salon. My name is Nyesha. How can I help
you this morning?’
Do not:
ignore the client
act as though serving the client is the last thing you want to do
patronise the client by talking down to her.

The receptionist
For the receptionist to be professional and capable, she needs to know everything her
job role demands. As with all life skills, knowledge leads to confidence.
A receptionist may be employed for her managerial and office skills. She may not be
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

a beauty therapist. However, to be able to book in a client and talk knowledgeably

about treatments, she must be fully aware of everything contained within the salon
price list. The receptionist needs to know the limitations of her authority and when to
refer to the manager or salon owner.
The receptionist should understand:
each treatment on the price list
Always provide a receipt of payment
what it involves
how long it takes
Think about it how much it costs

• A lways have a pen and paper what the benefits and effects are
handy to take messages. the aftercare and homecare needed
• Answer the phone promptly, even what products can be sold in conjunction with the treatment.
if you are busy.
• If you do feel harassed, pause, This will allow the receptionist to talk with confidence about each treatment, to book
take a deep breath in before lifting appointments correctly, to schedule the working day into a logical sequence and to
the receiver and put a smile in advise clients appropriately.
your voice. (It is very easy to sound
Dealing with telephone enquiries
abrupt on the telephone.)
• Identify the salon quickly, after The telephone is now second nature to us all and mobile phones are commonplace.
making sure you are connected Not everyone can use one effectively, however. The telephone can be a very useful
properly and the caller can hear business tool and should be used wisely.
you.
• Be cheery – no matter how How to use the phone
pressurised you may feel, it should
not show in the tone of your voice. There are key steps to a good telephone manner. These ensure that the person on the
No one wants to be greeted by a end of the phone is treated courteously, efficiently and accurately.
miserable-sounding receptionist.
• Redirect the call quickly when Identifying the purpose of the enquiry
putting it through to another
extension. If the call cannot be put The receptionist should ask herself these questions about her visitor in order to
through, ask the caller if they wish identify the purpose of the enquiry.
to leave a message. Why has the client come?

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 The workplace environment

Do ask to Do answer Don’t forget that calls may come out of office Don’t sigh into the
use the with a smile hours. Most people are comfortable leaving a phone. This gives the
phone if it in your voice message on an answer phone. Enquiries can impression that the
is a quick – just as if also be made electronically via the salon’s caller is a nuisance and
personal you can see website. Remember that revenue may be lost if you are doing them a
call. the person’s no one follows up the message. favour by answering.
face.
Don’t use the telephone for private
DOS calls. Itemised phone bills now Don’t be curt, rude or
show who made a call, for how DON’TS irritated when you first
Do write a long and to whom. No employer pick up the phone.

Do remember message would mind the odd local call or

that all calls down so that emergency message, but do not
Don’t make up an answer
are from anyone can abuse an employer’s goodwill.

Unit G4
if you don’t know. Honesty
existing or read it, and
really is the best policy. If
prospective make sure it
Don’t slam down the phone, you make something up
clients. is complete.
cut someone off or talk about you will only get caught
the caller in a rude manner. out and lose credibility.
The Dos and Don’ts of dealing with telephone enquiries

Fulfil salon reception duties

Where has the client come from?
Has she come for her appointment?
Is the client here for a price list or to purchase a product?
What action do I take to help the client?
Eye contact and an approachable expression will encourage the visitor to give the
required information so that a decision can be made as to the proper course of action.
You might say:
‘Please take a seat; the manager won’t keep you a moment.’
‘Would you like a drink or magazine while you wait?’
‘I will inform your therapist you have arrived for your appointment, Mrs Smith.’
If a client is making an enquiry by telephone, ideally the phone should be answered
within four rings. All enquiries should be dealt with in a professional manner and the
same courtesy should be shown to the client as if they were in the reception area. Think about it?
Email enquiries should be dealt with in the same manner as soon as practical after Anyone can walk through the salon
receiving them. Ensure that full details are given to the client to ensure that they door, so it’s best to be prepared!
are happy with the reply. It is worth remembering that you can email at any time of When dealing with clients, both face
day, and clients who have to cancel an appointment out of hours will often use this to face and on the phone, it is likely
method, so, along with the answer phone, emails should always be checked first that at some time you will deal with a
thing in the morning client who may have different needs
and expectations of the service they
Customers with different needs and expectations wish to receive and will challenge
Customers with disabilities the receptionist. Clients may appear
People with disabilities may require some help negotiating doorways and assisting confused or angry, or may have a
into the treatment area. Always offer to help, but do not assume they cannot manage complaint. Remember to remain
– and never patronise or talk down to the client. polite and calm at all times.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The hard of hearing are usually good lip readers, so the receptionist should face the
client and speak clearly so the client can see the words forming. Depending upon the
severity of the disability, a pad could be provided to jot down a message. A price list
could be a good visual aid to help clarify what the client wants.
People who speak English as an additional language might have difficulties
Wheel chair Deaf communicating with you. Again, speak clearly, and use visual materials to help
access person clarify and seek help if available.
Customers with special needs may
require extra assistance Older clients may have problems with mobility or hearing. However, never assume
this to be the case – never judge! Be on hand to offer assistance. If the client is very
frail, then explain that some treatment adaptation might be needed.
Think about it
Clients who appear angry
It can be as easy to give a bad
Never shout at clients. Be calm and precise when dealing with them. If they are in
impression over the phone as in
reception and appear angry and agitated, try to take them somewhere quiet, out of
person – perhaps more so, because
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

the public view, as an angry client, even if their anger is unfounded, does not do the
the caller only judges what is heard,
reputation of the salon any good. Remember, if you cannot deal with the client’s
and may not know the background
complaint, find someone in a more senior position to assist you.
to an irritable manner.

Clients who appear confused

There may be a number of reasons for the client’s confusion: for example, the
client may speak English as a second language (see above) and have difficulty
understanding; it may be related to an illness or a disability; or it could be something
as simple as getting the date and time of the appointment wrong. It is important for
the receptionist to remain calm and clarify things as many times as the client needs
to ensure that they understand.

A client with a complaint

Clients with a complaint should be treated with respect and, however agitated and
angry they might be, never shout or retaliate. At times, this may be difficult, but
remaining calm will always give the receptionist the upper hand.
For your portfolio
Listen carefully to the client’s grievance and try to resolve the problem. If this is out
In pairs or groups, role play the of your capability, refer the complaint to someone more senior. If you are dealing with
following clients: angry; confused; a phone complaint, you may need to say that you will ask someone more senior to
English as a second language; phone back – if you promise this, then it’s important someone does phone, as it will
complaint; hard of hearing. only annoy the client further if they do not receive the promised call.

Confirming appointments
Appointment details always need to be confirmed. Names, times and services can
sound similar, and confirming the details involves double checking, which may save
confusion later on.
You will need to make sure that you confirm all the details with the client: ‘So, Mrs
Patel, just to confirm your appointment for Wednesday the 10th, at 4 pm, for a facial
with Shauna – can I give you an appointment card with that on?’ Look to the client
and she will usually agree with you, ‘Yes, that’s correct, and yes, you had better put
it on a card for me, thank you.’ When making appointments over the phone, as with
clients in the reception area, always confirm the service and the date and time of
the treatment.

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 The workplace environment

Many salons now send text messages to clients the day before their appointment to
remind them. The text message acts as a prompt and allows the client to reschedule MESSAGE
the appointment if necessary, therefore saving precious salon time through missed FOR Deepak
appointments and lost revenue.
FROM Mrs Alessi
If the client has just arrived for her appointment, acknowledge her presence and TEL NO. 0208 321 145
inform the therapist her client has arrived. If there is a slight delay, then keep the
client informed, take her coat, make her a drink and give her a magazine. TELEPHONED ✔ PLEASE RING ✔
If the client’s treatment is personal, then you should not repeat it too loudly. Just CALLED TO WILL CALL
SEE YOU AGAIN
confirm her arrival.
WANTS TO URGENT

Referring enquiries and recording messages SEE YOU

MESSAGE: Needs to speak to

correctly
you asap – you can call her on
Enquiries cannot always be dealt with by the receptionist, and in these cases you the tel. no. above up to 5.30pm

Unit G4
should refer the enquiry to someone who can help. However, if the relevant person
is not available you will need to take a message and pass this on at an appropriate
time. During the course of your reception duties you will be asked to take messages
for other staff members, the manager, or even a client having a treatment. DATE: 10.05.10 TIME: 9.03am
RECEIVED BY: Amber
This valuable service also provides evidence for your portfolio. Make sure you get your
message signed and dated by the person it should go to (and include the assessor

Fulfil salon reception duties

A message pad can be useful for
number where appropriate) and it can go into your evidence portfolio.
recording messages
It is very important to write down the whole message exactly as you heard it, even if
you think it sounds odd, or it is difficult to understand.
Think about it
You will need to include:
Salons may also use email to let
the date and time of the call clients know of special offers by
how important the message is – if necessary, write ‘urgent’ on it sending a monthly newsletter
containing promotional information.
a brief description of the nature of the message
whether the caller needs a reply – a return telephone number is then essential.
It is important to listen carefully and to ask the caller to repeat any part of the
message you did not understand or hear properly. Always repeat the whole message
back to the caller to make sure you have all the details correctly on the pad –
especially the return number.

Passing on messages manually and electronically

Many large companies have internal computer systems that allow staff to email
internally. Provided each person has access to a computer, and the system is set up
centrally, anyone can receive a message on their computer. An address book is set
up, you type in your message and send it, and it goes to the person’s inbox.
Computer technology has the advantage of saving paper and allowing several people
to be given the same information at once without having to write several messages.
However, the drawback is that you cannot guarantee that the person you emailed will
be able to open the email that day, or that they are in the office to do so.
Many salons use a system of a personal pigeonhole with the name above or below it.
Messages can be left in the pigeonhole and can be collected throughout the day. Computers can be used for booking
appointments

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

A pin board for messages also works well – confidential messages can be sealed in
Think about it
an envelope and addressed as personal so that no one opens them by mistake.
Urgent messages, appointment
Computer technology can also be used for booking appointments and taking
cancellations and accident or
emergency messages should be given
payments. In addition, software programmes can be installed to keep stock records
in person. and client record cards, and to print off price lists and gift vouchers. Many salons
also have websites advertising the treatments that they offer, with price lists and
the option for clients to make enquiries and book appointments. Websites can be
Think about it built fairly easily today and there are a number of companies that design websites to
Professionalism should be the theme meet any need and fit any budget, so even a mobile therapist may consider having
running throughout your training, a website to promote her business. There are also a number of companies available
and integrity is a major part of that work exclusively with therapists to help promote their business. Your professional
professionalism. Integrity means body will have details of such companies. (Refer to Professional basics, ‘Data
being honest, acting with honour Protection Act 1998’, pages 63–64.)
and being reliable and truthful in all
Regular computer training is essential so that all staff know how to access and use
that you do.
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

the information stored in a computer.

Giving accurate information

Try to make sure that information you give about products or services is as accurate
as possible. If you make something up to keep the client happy, your advice may
be unsafe and you will lose the confidence of the client. (Refer also to Unit G18
Promote additional products or services to clients, pages 114–15.)

Think about it Dealing with confidential information

If a client’s health status or other It is essential to be sensitive to all confidential information. This includes the client’s
sensitive or personal information is medical details and personal information as well as their treatment history held on
not kept private, you are breaking record cards or electronically on the salon’s computer.
confidentiality. You need to be aware
of, and abide by, the Data Protection A client’s address, telephone number, health status/problems, medication and
Act. If you break this confidentiality, other personal details are all classed as confidential. You are allowed to give these
you may be subject to criminal details to authorised people only, such as your salon owner, manager or therapist
proceedings. (Refer to Professional colleagues. No persons outside the salon must have access to your clients’ personal
basics, pages 63–64 for further details.
information.)

Make appointments for salon

services
In this outcome you will learn about:
• d ealing with all requests for appointments politely and promptly
• accurately identifying client requirements for the service requested
• scheduling appointments in a way that satisfies the client, the therapist
and ensures the most productive use of salon time
• confirming that the appointment details are acceptable to the client
• recording appointment details accurately, clearly and to meet your
salon’s requirements.

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 The workplace environment

It is usual for the appointments for each therapist to be recorded in a large book with
either a column or a page for each. This allows the therapist to see at a glance the
treatments booked in for the day and to make the appropriate preparation.
The golden rule is to have a system and make full use of it. Requests for
appointments should be dealt with promptly and politely.

Filling in the appointments pages

Pages should be set out for several weeks in advance so that clients booking ahead or
wanting special days (pre-wedding make-up, etc.) can book in confidence. It is useful
when planning a course of treatments for a client – say twice a week for six weeks. This
also allows the therapist to do some advanced planning should she need time off.
Many salons now use a computer booking system to record the appointments of their
clientele. This method is used in the same way as an appointment book. There are a
number of advantages over a manual system: the computer can be used to generate

Unit G4
a mailing list and keep a record of treatments and has numerous other facilities that
an appointment book alone cannot offer, such as stock levels, sales figures, recent
orders and delivery times and dates.
When booking the appointment the receptionist needs the following details:
client’s name

Fulfil salon reception duties

client’s contact details
service or treatment required
date and time of appointment
therapist booked for service or treatment.
It would be advantageous to the client to know the estimated price of the treatment/
service when booking.
The receptionist also needs to know the length of the appointment she should book in
order to ensure the most effective use of the therapist’s time, thereby maximising the
salon’s productivity. She should also check with the client that she has enough time
for the treatment/service to be carried out: for example, not booking an hour
and a half treatment if the client only has an hour available. Time must also be
allowed for:
greeting the client and the consultation
client undressing
client preparation during the treatment
client getting dressed, and being given homecare and aftercare advice.
The appointments page may look like the one on page 162.
Remember that if the salon has a system of coding, it should be used – it will make
life easier. For example: C = cancellation, L = late arrival, A = client has arrived, and
so on.
Some salons do not have columns for each therapist; instead they allot a workstation
number or couch position and then fit the staff around the treatments that need
to be completed. The advantage of this system is that the workload can easily be

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Date:Tuesday 12th October 2010

Lucy Hellena Anetta Siobhan
AM 9.00 Mrs Khan Mrs Hughes 9.00 AM
9.15 full full 9.15
9.30 Bodywax B/Massage 9.30
9.45 0123445678 223335 9.45
10.00 10.00
10.15 10.15
10.30 Mrs Inder 10.30
10.45 Miss Jones Pedicure 10.45
11.00 Aroma + ½ leg wax Miss Westerby 11.00
11.15 Backmassage 01235 771540 French 11.15
11.30 357928 Manicure 11.30
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

11.45 + facial 11.45

12.00 01329 815242 Mr. Vallete 12.00
Mrs Green Backmassage
LUNCH Eyetint + pedicure
444321 02271881570
13.00 Mr. Walsh
Manicure Miss Rudman
+ backwax LUNCH Miss Allen Miss Binder
02392815815 × 2 eyebrows waxing
14.00 Mrs Suline 335215 e/b + lip & chin
Eyebrow tidy Miss Murphy LUNCH 07807577211
413927 Arm wax
+ u/arm wax
15.00 223792 Miss Nair Mrs Pattel
Bridal Sugaring
Miss Woolford Top to toe to × 2 leg
Basic facial + 447812 221335
16.00 Mrs Wang eyelash tint
Non-surg. 445877
facial lift
08729815111
17.00 Mrs Townsend
M/up
lesson
315579 ext. 222

A page from an appointment book

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 The workplace environment

distributed between staff, and the manager can allot the jobs as fairly as possible.
Think about it
The disadvantage is that regular customers do not always get the same therapist.
If time is not allowed for all
When booking an appointment, it is important to do the following.
aspects, the first treatment of the
Fill out the details in pencil. This allows alterations or cancellations without day will overrun, making the next
making the page illegible. appointment late. This can continue
all day and the knock-on effect
Have an easy code to identify any potential problems (see above).
may be that the last client is kept
Make sure that everyone can easily understand start and finish times. waiting far too long. The therapist
Make sure that all names and numbers are clear and legible. is put under pressure, the client may
Allow the hard-working therapist a break for lunch. feel rushed and the benefits of the
treatment will be lost.
Do not be pressurised by a persistent client into giving a lunchtime appointment
to a therapist who has had no other break during the day. Good practice is to
stagger the lunch breaks, so that there is always a therapist covering a busy
lunchtime session. Think about it

Unit G4
Do give an appointment card to the client with all the details recorded on it so Be aware of the new client and have
she has a record of when she has to come in. This cuts down the possibility of a a code to alert the therapist. This
missed appointment. allows patch testing (if required)
to be carried out as well as a full
Date Time Treatment booked Therapist consultation if needed.

Fulfil salon reception duties

An appointment card

Missed appointments
Have a clear salon policy on missed appointments. Some salons make a
small cancellation charge if the appointment is missed – rather like dentists or
physiotherapists. This is usually in the region of £30. There is usually no cancellation
fee if the appointment is cancelled with 24 hours’ notice. Both staff and clients need
to be clear on this policy and it could be displayed in the reception area. This is when
text messages or email reminders to clients are helpful: they are less likely to forget
their appointment or can rearrange if necessary.
Be flexible and be prepared to fit in the client who arrives without an appointment.
The receptionist should always check first and then fit the client into a suitable slot.
She should then inform the therapist, who may not be aware that another client is
waiting for her.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Handle payments from clients

In this outcome you will learn about:
• accurately totalling charges to the client
• informing clients of charges clearly and in a courteous manner
• visually inspecting purchases for condition and quality as they are processed for
payment
• establishing the client’s method of payment and acknowledging receipt of payments
• ensuring accepted payments are correct
• recording information about the sale accurately, clearly and to meet your salon’s
requirements
• gaining authorisation for accepting non-cash payments when the value exceeds the
limit you are able to accept
• tactfully informing clients when authorisation cannot be obtained for non-cash
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

payments
• identifying and resolving, where possible, any discrepancies in payments within the
limits of your authority
• promptly referring payment discrepancies which you cannot resolve to the relevant
person for action
• giving the correct change and issuing receipts when required by clients
• following cash point security procedures at all times
• identifying and reporting low levels of change in time to avoid shortages.

How the financial side of any business is approached is as vital as the treatment side.
The client should be treated as courteously at the end of her treatment as at the
beginning. Politeness is of prime importance when she is paying for her treatment.

Cheque Methods of payment

Several methods of payment are available. How the client pays is very much her
Debit card choice and the receptionist must be prepared and able to cope with any payment
Cash method. The client should always be told the amount politely and asked which
payment method is going to be offered.

METHODS All payment methods are equally acceptable and should be handled with care.
OF However, it will be up to the individual salon to state which payment methods it
PAYMENT wishes to accept. Salons often have a sign in the reception area and on their price
lists stating the payment methods that are accepted. Clients who phone with an
enquiry or to make an appointment should be told of the methods of payment that
are available to them.
Credit card
Salon gift
Cash
voucher
When a customer is paying cash (a rarity these days), there are several aspects to be
aware of. A large denomination bank note, that is £20 or £50, should be checked to
Several methods of payment are
possible
ensure it is genuine and not counterfeit.
Look for the watermark – every note has a watermark that can be seen when the
note is held up to the light.
Look for the metallic strip which is woven into the paper – it should be unbroken.

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 The workplace environment

Compare the feel of the bank note paper – often a forged note is not printed on
the same quality paper and may have a thin feel.
Often the police circulate a list of forged note numbers to be on the lookout for.
The numbers are on a stop list and this list should be kept near the till, so that
numbers can be compared.
At the end of the day’s business the till must be totalled and the takings matched
against the recorded amount taken, either through the till roll or a docket system. If
a float has been used to provide small change at the beginning of the day, then it
needs to be deducted from the total takings. This can then be used for the next day’s
trading. The balance of the takings should be paid into the salon bank account. Most
large banks offer a night safe facility, where the takings can be deposited. It is not
ideal to keep large amounts of money and cheques on the premises overnight – there
is always the risk of a burglary. Large denomination bank notes
should be checked carefully
If there is a problem with a bank note, it will normally be because the client has

Unit G4
accepted this money from another source, and the authorities should be notified. It is
important that the note is removed from circulation and the police are informed. Ask
the client quietly to step into the office away from reception to avoid embarrassment.
Ask the supervisor, manager or owner to deal with the situation. The receptionist can Think about it
then return to her duties at the front desk. It is important not to feel
Even when accepting money from very regular customers, you should still check it embarrassed when checking money;

Fulfil salon reception duties

thoroughly. Dealing with cash involves a lot of responsibility, and care must be taken it will save the salon and protect the
customer.
to avoid errors.

Procedure for handling cash payments

Place the client’s money on the till ledge to ensure you remember the amount
given to you. Do not place the money straight in the till drawer as this may lead to
confusion – was it a £10 or a £20 note? Count the change required from the note,
and then re-count it into the client’s hand. Place the client’s money in the till drawer
and close it. Give the client the receipt to confirm the cost of the treatment, how
much was given to you, and the change you gave.

Cheques
A cheque is no more than an instruction to the bank telling it to pay a specific sum to
a specified person. Most banks and building societies offer a cheque service, although
a debit card service is also available (see below).
A cheque payment is acceptable to a salon, providing certain checks and precautions
are carried out. Always check that:
the date is correct (day, month and year), especially important around New Year
the name of the salon is spelt correctly – the client could be offered a stamp with Think about it
the full name pre-printed on it Payments for all treatments need to
the amount of money is correct, and is in words as well as numbers be acknowledged by a handwritten
or a till receipt, regardless of the
the signature is completed correctly and matches the signature on the cheque
method of payment used.
guarantee card.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Is the name of the Is the amount of money in

salon correct? words and figures correct?

30 – 27 –54
TOWN BRANCH 46055239
Is the date correct?
WEST COUNTRY GROUP
P O BOX 64, ANYTOWN OS5 2GD Date ''j^7fh_b¼'&
PayL_bbW][=eii_f Only

Jm[djofekdZiedbo £ (&

Account Payee
Does the signature
A. N. OTHER on the cheque match
the signature on the
Look carefully at all these guarantee card?
˝ 203064˜ 30··96823·˜ 402229521·03
items on a cheque

What is a cheque guarantee card?

Think about it A cheque guarantee card should always support a cheque. It has two functions.
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

If a cheque is faulty in any way, the It acts as proof of identity.

bank will reject it and return it to It guarantees that the bank will honour the cheque up to the limit of the card. The
the salon. It is up to the salon to limit on bank cards is either £100 or £250.
contact the customer and inform her
of the fault. The customer will then Always check the expiry date on the card, written as 03/12 for example, for the
need to call into the salon and alter month and year the card needs to be reissued. Also check that the signatures match
and initial any necessary changes. It and the card type is the same as the cheque; that is, both are issued by the same
may be wise to rewrite the cheque bank. The cheque is then treated exactly like cash and put into the till. A receipt is
altogether. So it is much easier to get given and the till is closed.
it right first time.
Card Current Account Signature of
A number of business have recently
issuer card holder
stopped accepting cheques as a
EasiSwipe
form of payment favouring the
use of debit cards, if your salon Card
XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
has decided not to accept cheques number
as a form of payment, you should
Mrs S Bloggs
advertise the fact in the salon and on XXXXXX
Name of XXXXXXXXX 06/07 06/10
price lists. This will prevent potential
cardholder
embarrassment if the client does not
Valid from Expiry
have another method of payment. Cumulus Magister £100 Network
date date
A cheque guarantee card Cheque guarantee limit

Credit cards
Credit cards are often referred to as ‘plastic money’. Credit card companies offer credit
cards to those customers they consider creditworthy.

How credit cards work

If your salon has a contract with a credit card company, it will usually display a sign
stating that credit cards are accepted. Most salons use the chip and pin linked to their
computerised till for credit or debit card transactions (see below). If the amount is
large, the chip and pin facility will check to see if the client has enough credit before
the payment is authorised.

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 The workplace environment

Debit cards
Think about it
All banks now offer the convenience of a debit card. In a number of businesses these
Be careful with credit and debit cards.
have taken the place of both cheques and cash transactions. The payment is made
All the information is stored in the
electronically by transferring money straight from the customer’s bank account to the
chip and this can sometimes become
salon’s account.
damaged and the information
Debit cards are usually the same as the cheque guarantee card, should the customer destroyed.
wish to write a cheque.
The card is inserted into a chip and pin machine and the amount is entered by the
receptionist taking the payment. The customer then enters their unique pin number
and electronic authorisation is given by the bank. The customer is given a copy of the
receipt and the business has a duplicate, which is used when calculating the takings
at the end of the day.
The salon may impose a minimum spend on debit or credit cards as the business has

Unit G4
to pay for every transaction by this method of payment either to the bank or credit
card company. This is usually 1.5–2 per cent of the transaction. In some cases, this
is passed on to the customer by the business, but salons do not normally charge the
client for using a debit card.

Cash equivalents and pre-paid cards

Salon gift vouchers

Fulfil salon reception duties

A chip and pin machine

£20
This voucher is
for the value of

Redeemable against
any treatment

Valid until September 2011

A salon gift voucher

A gift voucher is a good alternative to giving someone cash as a present. As the name
suggests, it is a voucher to the value of a set sum of money. The voucher usually
includes a card with the salon details on it. The amount of money to be exchanged
will also be prominently displayed. When the lucky person who has received a gift
voucher presents it to the salon, the receptionist will treat it exactly the same as a
cash transaction. For security, the vouchers have serial numbers to avoid duplication
or reuse. This makes them easier to track.
When the voucher goes into the till, it should be kept in a separate compartment
from the notes. The receptionist or therapist should put a line through it and give her
initials to state that it has been used.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Pre-paid cards
There are new advances in technology that could make plastic cards obsolete within the
next few years. Manufacturers in phone technology have designed a phone that thinks
it’s a credit card! It works by sending bank details – which are now contained in the
chip on your credit or debit card – in an infrared beam from the phone to the till. After
purchases are scanned at the checkout as normal, the customer selects the ‘banking’
menu on his or her phone, chooses the payment function and enters a personal four-
digit pin code into the keypad. Pushing the ‘send’ key beams the information into a
receiving unit in the till. This passes the information to the account to be debited, in
much the same way as completing a normal chip and pin transaction. As with the chip
and pin debit/credit card, no signature is required. Some salons have now adopted this
increasingly popular payment method. It is hoped that fraud and stolen cards will be a
thing of the past, as the process is so easy to manage.

Invalid payments
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

Unfortunately, there may be times when payment discrepancies and disputes arise.
They should be dealt with calmly, without causing embarrassment to the client. If
you are unable to resolve the dispute refer to a senior staff member, salon manager
or owner.
Possible problems may include the following.
Invalid currency is presented – perhaps a foreign note or even a forged note.
An invalid card is presented – it may be out of date, or not match the cheque
details.
A cheque is filled out incorrectly, or does not have a current cheque guarantee
card.
The client has entered the incorrect pin for their card.
Fraudulent use of a payment card is suspected – perhaps it has been put on to
the stop list.

Discounts and special offers

A good way of promoting a slow-moving product, or of getting the new season off to
a good start, is to offer either a discount on a service or a free service to entice clients
into having the full treatment. Often supermarket promotions will be ‘buy one – get
one free’, or you get a free small conditioner when you purchase shampoo. A salon
can offer the same type of discounts: for example, at the start of summer, when
everyone wants leg waxing and pedicures, a salon could offer a free bikini wax with
every half-leg wax. The wax is already on, the therapist can perform the service in a
short time while doing the leg wax, and the client is very happy to be receiving a free
treatment! A pedicure could include a free polish – very little outlay for the salon, but
again a good gift to pass on to the customer.
All these variations of costs need to be carefully put through the till, so that the
stock and money add up at the end of the day. If the client has been given a free nail
polish by the therapist and the receptionist tries to charge it to the client, she is not
going to be very happy! The receptionist needs to know what is going on, and how to
work the till to show discounts and free products.

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 The workplace environment

A course of treatments often includes a free one, or payment in full for a course
might offer a 10 per cent discount, so the receptionist will need to know how to work
out a percentage.

How to calculate a discount

Fractions, decimals and percentages are just different ways of saying the same thing:
1
2
is the same as 0.5 and 50 per cent.
These three you should know straight off without any problem:

Diagram Fraction Decimal Percentage

1 0.25 25%
4

1 0.50 50%
2

3 0.75 75%

Unit G4
4

Converting fractions to decimals to percentages

For the ones you don’t know, you must be able to convert them like this:
Fraction Divide using Decimal × 100 Percentage
e.g. 15 the calculator = 0.2 (0.2 × 100) = 20 per cent (%)
(1 ÷ 5)

Fulfil salon reception duties

Fraction Decimal Percentage:
1
4 0.25 25%

Diagram Fraction Decimal Percentage

1
1/4 4
0.25 25%
1
1/2 2 0.50 50%
3/4 3 0.75 75%
4

Divide using the · by 100

Fraction Decimal Percentage
1
calculator
e.g. 5 (1, 5) = 0.2 (0.2 · 100) 20%

Fraction Decimal Percentage

1
e.g. 8 (1, 8) = 0.125 (0.125 · 100) = 12.5%

Converting fractions to decimals and percentages

Salon services and available products

Refer to Unit G18 Promote additional products or services to clients, pages 108–09,
for information on how to gain knowledge on which treatments your salon offers.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

How the till works

Tills come in all shapes and sizes and vary in their functions, depending upon their age
and what they are required to do. Scanning tills are automated to pick up a bar code
on goods and products. The bar code includes the price and the stock levels, making
reordering and analysis of sales easy. The operator has little work to do except for clearing
the till when mistakes occur and loading the till roll.
Supermarket tills have a discount system built into the software. The scanner picks up
the price and then automatically takes off the appropriate discount. Any till receipt will
show the deductions at the end. Some larger salon chains now offer a discount or loyalty
service that is often used during promotions to entice clientele.
Smaller salon tills do not often have a scanner facility. Discounts should be done
manually and clearly marked on the receipt with the therapist’s or receptionist’s initials to
verify the date and amount.
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

Manual tills do have an adding-on button, usually a + sign, so that items that are
listed separately can be added up for a final total. The whole front button panel looks a
little like a calculator and includes a percentage button and a subtotal button. Staff till
training should be available for all, with regular updates as the technology changes. It
is important to ensure the bill is accurately totalled, before confirming the price with the
client and accepting, the payment.

Dealing with damaged goods

When finalising a transaction with a client, it is good practice to check products for faults,
damage or leaks. It is both disappointing and inconvenient if a product has to be returned.
(Refer also to the Sale and Supply of Goods Act in Professional basics, page 62.)
Accidents can happen and goods
can be damaged or broken Often clients do not mind if a box is slightly damaged as long as the quality of the goods
inside is still perfect. Do not try to sneak the purchase into the bag without telling the
client – it looks as though you have something to hide. Point out the damage and explain
to the client that it will not affect the goods. Providing it is within your authority to offer a
discount, offer to reduce the item if the client is unhappy. If you cannot give deductions,
you must ask the manager and obtain a signature on the till receipt.
If the goods themselves are damaged or leaking, they should be replaced. It can be
frustrating if the product is the last one in stock and the client really wishes to purchase it.
Again, some form of discount could be suggested, but details must be written on the till
receipt to avoid the goods being brought back for a full refund.
All stock should be checked when unpacking the bulk purchase from the salon supplier,
as the damage may have been caused in transit and not be the salon’s fault. If you sign
for a parcel and do not check it before the delivery person leaves, then it is unlikely your
supplier will accept responsibility for the damage. If the stock arrives damaged and you
have checked it and discovered the damage, you can send it back.

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 The workplace environment

If stock has been around a long time and the packaging is not as good as new, then
the solution is often to have a bargain basket. Prices are reduced and the goods put in
a basket on display. People will often be tempted to buy as everyone loves a bargain!
Do be careful, though, that the basket is not left unattended as items are liable to
be stolen. Damaged stock that is reduced in price will have to be written off against
profits, so try to keep accidental damage to a minimum.

Money matters – a float

At the end of the day’s business, the takings in the till must be totalled and matched
up with the recorded sales and treatment dockets. A set amount of money is put into
the till every morning, called a float, to provide change for clients paying in cash. It is
usual to count out the float and replace it in the till for the next day’s trading.
A typical float would consist of a mixture of change (for example): For your portfolio
2 × £10 notes £5 in 20p coins

Unit G4
1 Check the amount of float your
4 × £5 notes £5 in 10p coins salon keeps.
2 Count your takings at the end of
£30 in £1 coins £1 in 5p coins
the day. How much money have
£10 in 50p coins £1 in 2p and 1p coins. you taken? Remember to deduct
This will, of course, depend upon the size of the salon, how busy it is, and how many the float.
people pay in cash. Most transactions are carried out by debit or credit cards – very 3 How much have you taken in

Fulfil salon reception duties

few small businesses handle a lot of cash unless the cost of goods is small, such as debit and credit card payments?
in a greengrocer’s shop. 4 How many gift vouchers or pre-
paid cards have you taken?
5 How many products have you
Security procedures sold?
Security in the reception area is important, both for stock and for the till itself. Never
leave the till drawer open when leaving the area, or leave it with the key in for easy
access – unfortunately not everyone is honest. Presenting a thief with an open till will
invalidate an insurance claim, as adequate measures were not in place.
Some salons have a wall or floor safe to keep the takings in and store the daily float
money. The takings need to be banked frequently, but avoid taking them to the bank
at the same time every day. This may make you a target for a thief, who may be
watching your movements. Most banks offer a night safe facility, where takings can
be deposited. Again, be safe, do not go on your own, and do not go at the same time
every day.
Larger salons employ security firms to collect the moneyboxes from the salon and
deliver them to the bank. Security guards have special headwear, eye goggles and
often body suits to protect them against attack.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Check your knowledge

1 List five things you could do to help keep the reception area tidy.

2 Why would it be important to check emails first thing in the morning?

3 Name two benefits of text reminders for the salon?

4 List six items of stationery that are essential for the receptionist.

5 What are the two types of displays of products most commonly used?

6 What does client hospitality mean?

7 Which Act of Parliament do you need to uphold when storing client’s details on a computer?

8 What would you do if you knew the client was going to be kept waiting?
Unit G4 Fulfil salon reception duties

9 What do you need in order to use email?

10 What will happen if you do not know how long a treatment takes and you are booking a client in?

11 List four other functions that a computer can provide to the receptionist other than storing appointments.

12 What is your salon policy on missed appointments?

13 What is the gift voucher or pre-paid card the same as?

14 How does a credit card work?

15 Your salon usually charges £17.50 for a facial. It is currently running a seasonal promotion offering a 10 per cent
discount on facial treatments. How much is the discount and what is the new price of the treatment?

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 The workplace environment

Getting ready for assessment

The evidence gained for this unit is quite straightforward. The best way of covering all the ranges is to spend a
set time at the reception desk at your place of training. Ideally, a rota of students with no experience can be drawn up
and matched with experienced students, who will pass on the skills needed to greet clients, make appointments and tend
to all reception duties. An assessor can then observe your activities, and very quickly a portfolio of ranges starts to develop.
Even though a new student will have little experience of booking appointments and handling payments, a day spent
observing others and being guided through the process is the only way to learn these new skills.
An assessor will expect you to be professionally presented, polite and courteous, with open body language and good
interpersonal skills. Those qualities are far more important than getting the till operation correct at the first attempt. Think
of it like taking a driving test – stalling the engine is not the end of the world as long as the correct procedures are followed.
Seeking clarification from a more senior staff member, or asking for help if you think the problem is outside your own
authority, will not mean you are considered incompetent – rather it shows you are mature enough to seek help and you

Unit G4
have an understanding of your own personal limitations (which is actually a range you need to cover).

• K eep a reception diary of events, problems sorted, and how you dealt with situations such as an angry customer or a
disabled client. Get it signed by the senior reception staff or your assessor at the end of the day.

•  e as helpful as you can and volunteer for any extra duties – they may cover a range you are unable to cover in the
B
normal course of the day. For example, escorting a client on a conducted tour of the facilities may be classed as

Fulfil salon reception duties

handling a confused client if she is unsure of prices, what the treatment consists of, or even how to find her way to the
toilet!

• If you help on the reception desk in your place of work, then an employer’s letter can be invaluable as evidence. It may
not be in a beauty salon, but could be anywhere where you deal with members of the public, take payments and use
a till, book clients in for hair appointments or doctor’s appointments, or deal with telephone enquiries. The employer’s
letter should clearly outline your duties in as much detail as possible and be dated and signed.

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 3
Section

Anatomy, physiology
and the skin

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 You and the skin

Unit GH8
What you will learn
How skin type and colour is determined
Impact of environment and lifestyle on the skin
The pH of skin and desquamation
How to recognise skin types and conditions
Skin characteristics and skin types of different ethnic groups
The photosensitivity of skin
Tools for diagnosing skin types and conditions
Face shapes and contours
Contra-indications to facial treatments
Other skin conditions – pigmentation disorders
Allergic reactions and sensitivity testing
Male skin
Factors affecting the skin-ageing process
The skin and the sun

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
This section looks at all aspects of the skin, which is a
continuing theme throughout each unit you are assessed upon.
For information on the anatomy of the skin, refer to Related
anatomy and physiology on pages 229–35.
The skin is a core subject for all beauty therapists to understand
– not just for completing your assessments but so that you have
the knowledge to offer your clients the most suitable programme
for their individual needs.
Knowing how to treat the skin (and hair and nails) is essential for
all the practical units, both for Level 2 and when you progress
on to further treatments within Level 3. These include face and
body treatments using mechanical or electrical equipment along
with manual massage techniques.
A full knowledge of how the skin behaves, how it grows and
what its problems or reactions may be will enable you to
make sound judgements when diagnosing skin types, planning
treatments and product use, and recognising potential skin
problems that would prevent the treatment from taking place at
You and the skin

all (this is called a contra-indication to treatment).

Everyone’s skin is different – all clients
have individual needs
Try this quick quiz:
What is the largest organ of the body?
What is the waterproof covering for the body, stopping water getting in or out?
What makes vitamin D in the presence of sunlight?
What protects the body from harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays?
What makes up the majority of the contents of a vacuum cleaner?
What helps regulate body temperature?
What is dead and yet grows continuously?
What is found on the body that is thin, thick and has lots of layers?
What has a surface area of up to 6 square metres?
What do you lose up to 20 kilograms of in a lifetime?
What stops poisonous chemicals and germs from entering your body?
What contains sense organs that help us detect changes in our environment?
The answer to all these questions is the skin. This illustrates how amazing, hard
working and versatile the skin is – and yet most of us take it for granted until it goes
wrong!

How skin type and colour is

determined
We inherit our characteristics through The type, condition and ethnicity of your skin are determined both genetically and
our parents
environmentally. While the ethnicity of your skin is clearly inherited, your skin type

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 You and the skin

Exposure to Exposure Genetics – Sleep General neglect Nutrition – you

sunlight/ to central ethnicity and and poor skin are what you eat
sunbeds heating or A/C inheritance care habits

Exercise
Stress levels
INFLUENCES ON THE
HEALTH OF YOUR SKIN Age and
Products used hormonal
Disease, illness
or allergies influences
Drugs – medicinal
and recreational Smoking Alcohol consumption
Influences on the health of your skin

may also be inherited to some extent. However, both skin type and condition can be
Key terms
hugely influenced by how the skin is treated, the products that are used, external
conditions and lifestyle choices. Ethnicity – relating to a group
of people who have a number of

Genetics factors in common, e.g. race, culture,

religion, language.
We are all a product of our parents and we inherit all our characteristics from Genetics – the study of genes, the
our families, either directly through our mother and father, or indirectly from our hereditary units that we receive from

You and the skin

grandparents and sometimes further back in the family. our parents, e.g. blood group, eye
colour, height, skin colour.
Every newborn baby’s cells contain an inbuilt programme for its future development
and growth, a set of instructions that are predetermined. In normal, healthy babies, DNA – deoxyribonucleic acid; a very
the instructions will be the same and will make up a basic recipe for a human being. important molecule that contains our
All the organs will be in the right place and working well, and, depending upon the genes. DNA is present in the nucleus
sex of the baby, the outer appearance will be the same for us all, and reflect our of all living cells.
family background and ethnic origins.
These instructions are found within an individual’s DNA: an arrangement of codes that
will produce an individual set of features. These are often called units of inheritance.
They determine hair colour, eye colour, skin colouring and so on. It is so individual to
each human being that forensic scientists are able to match DNA from tissue or hair
found at a crime scene with the criminal. It is therefore a powerful tool to help fight
crime. A DNA sample can be taken from the inside of the cheek lining using a sterile
swab, its contents determined and the results stored on a computer.
How are the instructions in genes used? A simple way to visualise this is to think of a
gene as carrying a set of instructions for the manufacture of an enzyme. This enzyme
can be the difference between a characteristic being present or not: for example, if you
have brown eyes, it is because you have the enzyme that helps in the production of
the brown pigment. This enzyme can only be made if you have this gene.
Think about it
Genes contain a mixture of influences from both parents. For example, a child may
Variation within humans is the result
inherit the curly hair and dark colouring of its mother, and grow to be tall like its
of two major influences:
father. There may also be an inherited gene from a grandparent, perhaps if both
the genes you inherit from your
the parents are blond but have a child with ginger or red hair. The genes of the
parents
grandparents may have influenced the colouring, as neither parent had a predominant
red hair colour. the environment in which you live.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

You can change your hair colour, or darken your skin through tanning or artificial
For your portfolio
colouring, but to begin with, like it or not, you are made up of your parents’ genes!
Look at your family tree and ask your You cannot pass on something that is not natural, such as a bottled hair colour, to
parents or grandparents about eye your children.
and hair colouring within the family.
Are there any surprises that you
were not aware of, such as ginger
The environment
hair or taller relatives? How has There are approximately 6.66 billion people on earth; we are all different, with
your family background influenced different height, weight, shape, skin colour, eye colour and so on. To ensure survival
your colouring? Where does your of the human race, we have adapted as we have evolved, depending upon where on
colouring come from? Write a short the earth we were born.
overview on your skin type and
genetic influences. This shows within different ethnic origins. The darker the skin and eye colour, the
more protection is given against the sun’s rays. Those living nearest to the equator
(the middle band around the earth, which is closest to the sun) have a darker skin and
eye colour as the sun’s rays are at their most intense.
Throughout history, nations have invaded one another. This has influenced the gene
pool and therefore the skin types of people on the different continents. Immigration
has also had an effect. Immigrants who settle in foreign countries and marry the
people of their adopted country produce children of mixed race. If you were to look at
your own family history, you may find your ancestors came from another country and
your genetic inheritance comes from many different countries.
You and the skin

Impact of environment and

lifestyle on the skin
Both the environment in which you live and your lifestyle contribute to
the health of your skin.

Nutrition
Good health and therefore a healthy skin begin with good nutrition – the
fuel that our bodies need to replace cells, maintain growth and repair and
hydrate the skin. A variety of foods will provide the essential vitamins and
minerals required to keep the body working at its optimum level. Getting
vitamins in food rather than in pill form means our bodies also receive
fibre, which helps the bowel to process waste products, and antioxidants,
which are essential in the fight against free radicals. The body cannot
overdose on vitamins and minerals found in food no matter how much
we have, whereas too many vitamin pills can cause dangerously high
levels of minerals that the liver then has to try to break down.

Key terms
Free radicals – highly reactive chemicals that attack molecules by
capturing electrons and thereby change a cell’s chemical structure.
Environmental factors such as pollution, UVA rays, smoking and pesticides
A variety of foods will ensure a healthy may cause free radical damage if production becomes excessive. Damage
vitamin intake and a balanced diet occurs and accumulates with age.

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Nutrient Source Why needed

Protein Red and white meat, dairy products, Maintains and supports body growth
pulses and lentils, seeds and nuts Essential for respiration of skin cells

Iron Red meat, liver, egg yolk, pulses, dried With protein, forms haemoglobin to carry oxygen through the body
fruits, e.g. apricots, raisins With vitamin C taken at the same time, helps absorption
Tannin and antacid medication limit absorption
Deficiency causes anaemia resulting in fatigue
Essential for oxygen levels in the skin

Calcium Dairy products, whole fish (sardines), With other minerals and vitamin D, helps strengthen teeth and
sunflower and sesame seeds bones

Vitamin A (retinol) Carrots, margarine, fortified dairy Important to health of mucous membranes and resistance to
products, liver, green vegetables infection
Antioxidant essential for renewal and growth of new skin cells
If applied in cream form on the skin, it can help stimulate collagen
production

Vitamin B1 Wheat germ, liver, whole grains, nuts, Aids digestion and utilisation of energy
(thiamine) offal Increases fatty acids in the skin – providing firmness to the skin and
aids natural exfoliation

Vitamin B2 Milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese, liver, whole Promotes healthy skin and eyes

You and the skin

(riboflavin) grains, green vegetables

Vitamin B3 (niacin) Oily fish, whole grains, liver, fortified Aids digestion and normal appetite needs
breakfast cereals, peanuts Promotes fatty acid production

Vitamin B6 Meat, bananas, dried vegetables, Helps to regulate the use of fatty acids to fight infection
(pyridoxine) molasses, brewer’s yeast, whole grains

Vitamin B12 Milk, eggs, meat, dairy products Essential for the maintenance of red blood cells and nervous system
(cyanocobalamin) (No vegetable source sufficient for daily needs. Vegans should see
their doctor about synthetic forms)

Folic acid (folacin) Green leafy vegetables, nuts, dried Essential for blood formation, therefore bringing oxygen and
vegetables, whole grains nutrients to the skin
Vital during pregnancy to prevent possible defects in babies

Vitamin C (ascorbic Most citrus fruits (including oranges), Increases resistance to infection, blood coagulation and iron
acid) red, green and yellow vegetables, e.g. absorption
tomatoes, peppers and broccoli More required during illness
Building block for collagen – the protein which provides the skin
with structure, tone and elasticity

Vitamin D Fortified milk and other dairy products, Helps body to absorb calcium
oily fish, liver, eggs, butter, salmon Calcium and phosphorus strengthen bones
Sunshine on skin Essential for development of skin cells

Vitamin E Vegetable oil, green leafy vegetables, Protects fatty acids from being destroyed
wheat germ, egg yolk, whole grains Antioxidant which helps to build and maintain good skin cells

Phosphorus Milk products, meat, fish, whole grains, Combines with calcium to strengthen bones and teeth
beans

Iodine Seafood, fortified salt Regulates energy use in the body

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Nutrient Source Why needed

Zinc Lean meat, seafood, whole grains and Makes up some enzymes and releases vitamin A from liver
dried beans

Fat – unsaturated Unsaturated fat found in olive oil, Provides supple skin, shiny hair and softness to all the tissues
(often classed as avocadoes, fish oils with omega-3 and
‘good’ fats) seeds, brazil nuts

Water
Our bodies are made up of 80 per cent water, and each cell needs water to function.
Water also helps blood to flow around the body. Blood should flow through the
veins and arteries like skimmed milk, but with low water content it becomes thick like
clotted cream, which doesn’t flow well at all. Besides drinking eight to ten glasses,
approximately two litres a day, water can also be found in food with high water
content such as melons, fruit and soups. Drinks that include alcohol and caffeine act
as a diuretic, which means they remove water and really make a big difference to the
hydration levels of the skin.

Sleep
You and the skin

Sleep is essential to the body for repair of tissue and for growth – even though adults
have stopped growing in height, cells and tissues need to repair and regenerate. Lack
of sleep causes all the body functions to slow down, and both mental and physical
function is impaired. You are also more likely to become run down, pick up infections
and generally feel low, all of which is reflected in the skin.

Exercise
Regular exercise, which increases the heart rate and gives the lungs a good workout
(cardiovascular exercise), is good for the whole body and stimulates the blood flow,
which shows up in the skin. The immune system is strengthened, stress levels are
reduced, and the heart functions better. General well-being is evident in a healthy,
glowing skin. Walking, running and swimming are all good energy-boosting activities.
Encourage your client to fit exercise into their lifestyle two or three times a week –
and do some yourself and see how well you feel, with higher energy levels and the
ability to cope better with your studies.

Smoking
The health risks associated with smoking are well publicised. Smoking is banned,
Think about it by law, in public places, which means that the risk of passive smoking – inhaling
You are what you eat – how true! other people’s cigarette smoke – has been reduced (refer to legislation in Professional
Nutrition is the body’s fuel, so feed basics, page 55).
it well for best performance. You
Smoking not only diminishes the lungs capacity to function well, it also affects
would not put low grade fuel into a
the oxygen levels in the blood stream, showing up as a sallow, dull complexion.
Ferrari and expect it to work really
Smokers are depriving the skin of oxygen and their skin may be prone to line more
well, and the same applies to
easily and age prematurely.
the body.

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Nicotine, the principal alkaloid in tobacco, impairs the circulation, slowing down
Think about it
the progress of nutrients and oxygen in the blood stream and the removal of waste
products from the cells. Skin may look pale yellow and grey, lose its elasticity and There is an old saying ‘You get the
become wrinkled, over time. Smokers also find that fingers and eyebrows become face you deserve’. Looking after
stained with a build-up of nicotine if the cigarettes are untipped and rolled without a your skin, eating a healthy diet, not
filter. Not a good look for the skin! smoking, a good skincare routine and
care with ultraviolet exposure will all
minimise the risk of skin damage and
Alcohol premature ageing.
Sustained alcohol intake can have an adverse effect on the skin as alcohol stops the
absorption of essential vitamins by the body, as well as providing ‘empty’ calories
with no nutritional goodness. This may lead to weight gain, which puts extra pressure
on the skin. Alcohol can act as an appetite suppressant, and a poor diet can cause
malnutrition in the long term.
There is also an allergic potential to alcohol, as it contains both salicylates and
yeast, which can cause the skin to break out in hives and rashes. Yeast also feeds
conditions such as thrush, irritable bowel syndrome and general irritability in the nerve
endings in the skin.

Stress
We all need a little stress in our lives to function fully and get our adrenalin flowing.

You and the skin

However, long-term and sustained stress on the body can cause ill health, mental
function impairment and hormonal fluctuations, which show up in the skin. Adult
acne and poor skin maintenance can be the result of long-term stress.
It is important for your client to deal with the underlying causes of anxiety and stress
and manage it – and take care of the body to allow it to function properly. Exercise
is a good stress buster and good nutrition is essential when the body is under stress.
Regular beauty treatments are very therapeutic and regular massage will help with
relaxation and improve skin function, as well as encouraging the client to maintain
the skin with good product advice.

Hormones
In pregnancy, hormonal changes may affect the pigmentation of the skin and darker
patches, called chloasma, may appear. These are commonly found along the hairline
and on the neck or hands.

Free radicals
Free radicals or oxidants are a big factor in the ageing of the skin. They are harmful
chemicals which can accumulate in the tissues. They are generated in the body as
a reaction to aggressive environmental influences such as sunlight, petrol fumes,
chemicals, smoking, wind and pollution, and to internal factors such as stress and
tiredness. A consequence of this attack on the skin is an acceleration of the skin’s
ageing process, with the loss of radiance, elasticity and tone. Free radicals are
controlled by enzymes, but should the production of the enzymes become poor, due
to a poor lifestyle, lack of sufficient nutrition and so on, then there is a build-up of
chemicals and toxins within the tissues.

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

STRONG The skin Shampoo Bleach STRONG

lemon peroxide pure water soap hair

juice depilatory
cream

ACID ALKALINE

The pH of skin and some products Neutral

The pH of skin and desquamation

The pH of skin
pH stands for potential hydrogen or – if it is easier to remember – parts hydrogen,
of any product. It is a number that describes whether a substance or solution is
acid, neutral or alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, 0–7 indicates acidity and 7+ indicates
alkalinity. Chemicals applied to the skin should have a pH that is neither too high nor
too low to avoid skin irritation.
You and the skin

Think about it The acid mantle

An impaired acid mantle is often The skin acts as a barrier against infection; this is known as the acid mantle because
caused by lack of essential fatty acids normal, healthy skin has an acidic pH between 4.5 and 5.5. The acid mantle
(EFA) in the diet – ask your client is made up of a delicate mixture of sebum and moisture content on the skin –
about crash dieting, fat-free diets dermatologists refer to it as the hydrolipidic balance (hydro = water; lipid = fat). It
and restricted eating – it could be the helps to inhibit the growth of bacteria.
cause of her skin problems.
Fungi are controlled by sebum, which inhibits their growth. So it makes sense to
maintain a steady pH balance in the skin to help fight off infection. Using products
that are too harsh will strip the skin of its protective pH acid mantle and this will
allow infections in and cause damage.

Inflammation as the Slow wound Weakened capillary

skin fights infection healing walls leading to
thread veins

Poor lymphatic
For your portfolio AN UNBALANCED ACID
drainage to skin cells
MANTLE MAY CAUSE Increased
Visit your local cosmetic store and
irritation to
compare three products that exfoliate
cosmetic
the skin. What are the ingredients
products
which do this? Are they all using the
same type of ingredients? Are the Poor transfer of oxygen DNA damage from
prices the same? Which one of your and nutrients to cells free radicals
three represents the best value for
money?

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Desquamation
The epidermis is continually renewing itself – the lower layers
are continually growing and dividing, pushing cells upward
until they reach the surface, and then they are rubbed away.
Friction within everyday movements, such as using a towel,
getting dressed and scratching the skin will be enough to
shed thousands of dead skin cells. This process is called
desquamation or exfoliation. Getting rid of the old cells allows
the new ones to come up to the surface, keeping the skin
healthy and able to fight infection. This goes on daily and is
not normally visible to the naked eye. Desquamation can only
really be seen when a suntan is fading and the skin becomes Exfoliating products
dry and peels off in visible sheets.
The life cycle of a cell from the germinative layer to the top horny
layer takes about 28 days and the cells go through a process Key terms
called keratinisation. Keratin is a form of protein, and the cells Exfoliation – the manual or
get harder, flatter and eventually die. As the dead cells have no mechanical method of removing
nucleus and no nerve endings, you don’t feel your skin shedding dead skin cells from the epidermis
itself. using techniques that may include
loofah scrub, dry brushing, salt glow,

You and the skin

enzyme masks or abrasive scrubs.
Surface of skin

A protective
Horny layer Think about it
layer of dead
cells Some skin conditions and disorders
Clear or lucid layer are linked to skin shedding.
Nucleus
CELLS DIVIDE AND GROW UP TO SURFACE

breaks down Psoriasis – a common skin condition

as cells die where the life cycle of the cells
Granular layer drops to only five days from the
Keratin
germinative layer to the top horny
develops in
layer. This happens so fast in the cells
the cells: they
that only the nuclei are retained. This
are about to
results in itchy, red, scaly patches,
harden and
most common on the elbows,
Prickle cell layer die off
knees, legs and scalp. The cause
Cells absorb is not known, but it is thought to
melanin in be stress-related. Sunlight or UV
Live response to exposure from a sunbed often helps
Germinating layer nuclei ultraviolet the condition and there are creams
light available to help, too.

Melanocyte Cells divide Ichthyosis – a chronic condition,

by mitosis usually present from birth, where the
Membrane skin becomes rough, dry, itchy and
scaly because of the over formation
Capillary loop of keratin and a lack of natural
exfoliation. In severe forms the scales
The cells of the epidermis can appear all over the body.

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How to recognise skin types and

conditions
Skin types are usually described as one of four categories:
1 Normal
2 Dry
3 Oily
4 Combination.
Think about it As well as these four basic types, skin can also be mature, sensitive, dehydrated, and
Everyone aspires to balanced skin in may have other problems. These may include: broken capillaries, blemishes, acne,
maximum condition and optimum comedones, milia and other minor imperfections.
health – that is the foundation of all The true skin type or condition may not be very easy to diagnose at first, as all skins
the treatments that therapists do. react to the environment, to products used, and to different lifestyles.

Skin types
Normal skin
This exists when the oil and sweat glands are working in harmony, with a working
acid balance to protect the skin. This skin has a good balance of moisture content and
You and the skin

oil to keep the skin soft, supple and flexible. It is an ideal skin type, but rare. The skin
is fine textured with no visible pores and smooth to the touch.
Some experienced therapists would argue that normal skin only exists in the very
young, prior to the hormonal influences brought on by puberty. However, some
people are lucky enough to enjoy a balanced skin, and those who look after their skin
very well and enjoy a healthy life style are more likely to experience a balanced skin
type.
Normal skin can occasionally become slightly dryer or slightly greasier – it should
never be assumed that it is always normal. The skin should feel warm to the touch,
and it heals well if damaged.

Questions to ask your client:

1 Is your skin generally in this condition?
2 Do you feel you have any problem areas?
3 Have you had problems in the past?
4 What skincare routine and products are you currently using?

Dry skin
This type of skin is oil- and moisture-deficient, leaving the skin dry to the touch. There
may be some loss of elasticity depending upon the client’s age, and in extreme cases
it can be rough or flaky. The texture of the skin is fine; dry skin can often be thin and
small red veins (dilated capillaries) may be present on the cheek areas. Pores and
follicles are often closed and inactive. The skin chaps easily and can be inclined to be
sensitive. Lines and wrinkles may form early on with dry skin, especially around the
eyes. The appearance of the skin is likely to be slightly dull, with a matt finish and it
lacks suppleness.

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 You and the skin

Dry skin can be deceiving. It may not be the client’s natural state but rather the
effects of internal or external influences. Factors such as ill health, poor or incorrect
product use, extreme weather conditions, over exposure to UV light or a poor diet (lack
of essential fatty acids) all contribute to making the skin dry. It can therefore be easy
to misdiagnose this skin type.

Questions to ask your client:

1 Does your skin feel tight and drawn?
2 Does your skin sometimes flake?
3 Does exposure to cold and wind make your skin sore?
4 Do you burn easily?
5 What products are you using?

Oily skin
Oily skin is caused by overproduction of sebum from the sebaceous glands. This
disturbs the acid mantle and the ratio of water to sebum on the skin. It looks shiny;
it can be slightly thicker in consistency than normal skin, sallow, coarse and have Key terms
problems associated with it. This skin is often referred to as seborrhoeic. Seborrhoea or seborrhoeic – the
name given to excessively oily skin
An oily skin often develops during puberty, when there is a surge of glandular activity
caused by overactive sebaceous
under the influence of hormones. It often corrects itself when the hormone levels
glands producing large amounts of

You and the skin

settle, and the use of the correct skin preparations can certainly help. Enlarged pores,
sebum, making the skin look shiny; in
congested pores, comedones and infection may occur on oily skins if the skin is not some cases, may result in acne.
thoroughly cleansed and maintained, so care must be taken. It may also show signs
of scarring, if there has been acne present.
Skin of this type is often over treated with quite harsh products, which can dry it out
– it is possible to have an oily skin with dry flaky patches as a result of poor product
use. This can be confusing for both client and therapist, so do check product use and
previous treatments. The only advantage to having an overproduction of sebum is
that in later life, as the skin sebum production slows down, the oily skin still has a
good supply of sebum to moisturise and lubricate the skin – an oily skin is less prone
to fine lines than a dry one.

Questions to ask your client:

T
1 Is your skin prone to pimples and blackheads?
2 Does the skin shine?
3 Is it difficult to keep make-up on?
4 What products are you using?
T-zone
Combination skin
Some skins are a combination of two or more skin types, and the most common one
is an oily T-zone along the forehead and nose, with normal or dry skin on the cheek
area. This is because there are more sebaceous glands along the T-zone which may
therefore show all the characteristics of greasy skin. This skin type really needs to be
treated as two types.

The T-zone is commonly found in

combination skin

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Questions to ask your client:

1 Is your nose shiny?
2 Are you prone to blackheads in the T-zone area?
3 Does the skin on your cheeks ever feel tight or dry?

Skin conditions
Sensitive skin
All skin needs to be sensitive for good health, but in beauty therapy a sensitive
skin is really one that is super sensitive, that is it reacts to even mild stimulus.
This condition is often associated with pale skins or a dry skin that lacks the
protection of enough sebum. Sensitive skins have a highly flushed look, with a
tendency to colour easily, and can react to beauty products or chemicals used
within the salon.
More and more clients are developing allergies and sensitivity to chemicals
and products – not just those found in cosmetic preparations but also cleaning
products and perfumes – food intolerances and nickel found in jewellery.

Questions to ask your client:

1 Is your skin prone to allergic reactions?
You and the skin

2 Do you often have a high cheek colour?

3 Does your skin show signs of being dry but slightly red?

Dehydrated skin
Skin may have the normal sebaceous secretions and still suffer from flaking and
tightness due to loss of surface moisture – a condition of dehydration. Any skin
can suffer temporary dehydration, which may be caused through using products
that are too harsh on the skin or through exposure to extreme temperatures,
central heating or over-stringent dieting.
The most common cause of dehydrated skin is a combination of not drinking
enough water and drinking too many alcoholic or caffeinated drinks (such as cola
and coffee), which are also dehydrating. When the thirst mechanism kicks in and
the body needs water, it very often gets a cup of coffee instead, which makes it
more dehydrated.

Questions to ask your client:

1 What skincare products are you using on the skin?
2 Have you altered your diet recently?
3 How much water do you drink a day?

Mature skin
All skins will age. The general rule of thumb is that a person’s cell renewal rate
is relative to their age – so a 16-year-old replaces skin cells every 16 days and
an 80-year-old replaces skin cells every 80 days. This is only a guide, but it
gives you an idea of how an older skin behaves and why.
Mature skin type

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 You and the skin

There are two types of ageing.

Intrinsic – this describes natural aging that occurs in the body. Your genetic
programming not only dictates your colouring and height, it also dictates how fast you
age. Generally, cell division stops after about 80 divisions and this cellular clock is
fixed, despite our best efforts to stop or slow it down.
Extrinsic – this relates to the external factors that contribute to the ageing of the skin,
e.g. exposure to UV light, free radicals, extreme weather and the chemicals found in
cigarette smoke.
In a fine-textured, older skin the slower rate of the sebaceous secretions, accompanied by
loss of elasticity, are contributory factors in the ageing process, leading to a mature skin
type. Wrinkles begin to form. The epidermis may become thinner with a lack of springiness
and loss of support from underlying muscles and collagen and elastin fibres, causing the
skin to sag.
However, lots of mature clients maintain their health, use the right products and have a
good lifestyle, which means that you cannot always diagnose a mature skin just by looking
at the client. You may find that a younger person who is a heavy smoker (thus starving the
skin of vital oxygen), with a poor diet and unhealthy lifestyle, may have skin that looks and
behaves considerably older than their biological age.
You can read more about the effects of ageing of the skin on pages 208–14.

You and the skin

Congested skin
All skin types can become congested under the right conditions. Congestion occurs because
the pores become blocked and sweat and sebum cannot escape on to the skin’s surface,
which can be seen and felt as lumpy and coarse. Whiteheads and blackheads can build up
and the epidermis may harden. Poor removal of make-up, using the wrong products and
excess sweat building up all contribute to this skin condition.

Comedones
Comedones or blackheads are formed when the mouth of the hair follicle on the skin’s
surface becomes blocked with excess sebum and hard keratinised cells. The comedone
mixes with oxygen (oxidises) and turns black, and can be quite hard and embedded, or
impacted. They are not infectious and do not spread but can be numerous, especially on
the forehead, nose and chin, if the client has an oily T-zone. Comedones are more common
in oily skins and during puberty when hormone fluctuations affect sebum production.

Infected skin
Any bacteria, fungi or viruses can penetrate broken skin and cause infection. This is usually
a sign of poor health and can occur when a person is run down or ill. The acid mantle
stops offering protection and the delicate balance is disrupted. This is easily recognised
as swelling or irritation, with pain and tenderness. The presence of pus is also a sign of
infection.
Bacteria entering the follicle, causing pore blockage to occur, causes Acne vulgaris (see
page 202).

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Damaged skin
Reasons for damage Signs and symptoms to look for when
assessing skin type or condition

Excessive exposure to the sun, The skin ages prematurely, causing a breakdown in
artificial sunlight (e.g. sunbeds), collagen and elastin which supports the skin; uneven
alcohol intake and smoking pigmentation; excessive lines and wrinkles relative to
the client’s age.

Pollution from chemicals, traffic Contamination of the skin leads to clogged and
and thinning of the protective blocked pores, irritations occur and there is a
ozone layer tendency to comedones and allergic reactions. This
causes dehydration and overactivity of the sebaceous
glands; loss of oxygen causes skin to look sallow and
tired.

Heat and steam Overstretching of the skin; pores enlarge and

become congested; damage to capillaries seen as
thread veins on the cheeks and chin.

Incorrect use of skincare Inappropriate products can cause comedones to form

products or lead to an oversensitive, dry or flaky skin.

Excessive heat Chapped and dehydrated skin; damaged capillaries

You and the skin

and vascular flushness on the skin; Spider naevus

present on cheeks.

Poor diet containing insufficient Sluggish and yellow or sallow-looking skin; lack of
nutrients or a lack of fatty acids; oxygen results in slow healing and repair of skin.
crash dieting

Impaired acid mantle due to Increased inflammation and sensitisation; poor

poor product use or ill health healing and infection.

The best way of caring for the skin is to:

avoid skin damage – picking, bruising or scratching it
take care of the skin internally with good nutritional habits/a balanced diet
drink plenty of water
avoid smoking
limit alcohol and caffeine intake
avoid crash diets or excluding fats from the diet
use the correct skincare products
have regular facials from an expert
always use sun protection on the skin when in the sun
maintain a good work/life balance – avoid unnecessary stress
Think about it
take regular exercise
Pigmentation is the production of
limit medication or drug use where possible
colour in the body, caused by the
deposit of a pigment called melanin, try to regulate hormone levels.
which protects the skin from UV
radiation.

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Skin characteristics Key terms

and skin types of Process of

melanocyte
Haemoglobin – a protein that
occurs in red blood cells. It contains

different ethnic Melanocyte iron and provides the red colour. It is

instrumental in transporting oxygen

groups around the body in the blood.

Carotenoids – yellow pigment;
Refer to the structure of the skin in Related carotene is found in yellow foods.
anatomy and physiology, pages 229–36. It is also the term used to describe
skin colour in relation to pigment,
The skin owes its colouring to the red
especially if the liver is enlarged and
haemoglobin found within the blood
the body becomes jaundiced.
vessels, yellow carotenoids, subcutaneous
fat and the dark brown pigment melanin. Melanin – pigment or colour found
Various degrees of pigmentation are present in skin and hair. Produced by special
Basal cell skin cells (melanocytes) that are
in different ethnic groups. The differences Developing
sensitive to sunlight, melanin protects
are in the amount of melanin produced pigment granules
the body by absorbing ultraviolet
and are not dependent upon the number of
radiation from the sun. The amount
melanocytes present (see below). Melanocytes in skin
of melanin present determines the
colour of a person’s complexion:
Pigment those with a large amount have

You and the skin

darker skin, those with very little have
Certain areas of skin are very rich in pigment, such as the genital area and the
fair skin. Melanin also determines the
nipples, while practically no pigment is present in the palms of the hands and the
colour of the iris in the eyes.
soles of the feet (often referred to as ‘glabrous’ skin, this lacks hair follicles and
sebaceous glands, and has a thicker epidermis). Melanocytes – skin cells that
produce melanin.
Pigment is stored as fine granules within the cells of the germinative layer, although
some granules may also be deposited between the cells. In white/Caucasian skin the
Key terms
granules occur only in the deepest cell layers and mainly in the cylinder-shaped cells
of the basal row. In non-white skin pigment is found throughout the entire layer and Epithelial cells or epithelial tissue
even in the granular layer (stratum granulosum). – specialised tissue that covers all
external and internal surfaces of the

Melanin body, made up of cells closely packed

together in one or more layers.
All melanin is made in special cells called melanocytes and then distributed to the Epithelial tissue is separated from
epithelial cells. The melanocytes are scattered in the basal layers of the epidermis underlying tissue by a thin sheet of
and mature as the embryo is developing in the womb. They are influenced by the connective tissue called the basement
units of inheritance gene code which determines race and colouring. membrane, which provides structural
support and binds it to neighbouring
Some people are born without the ability to produce melanin within their skins and structures. Simple epithelium is one
with no hair pigment – a congenital condition called albinoism. People with this cell thick and stratified epithelium is
condition have pure white hair, pale skin and pink eyes. two or more cells thick.
Congenital condition – a condition
Think about it that is recognised at birth or that
Not all white Caucasian skin is very light and fragile. Some skin tones are darker if the is believed to have been present
parents have brown or black hair, in which case the skin may tan more easily and be less since birth. These include all
prone to damage. Some white Caucasian skins, noticeably the Irish and Scottish, may disorders present at birth, whether
have striking dark hair colouring with paler skin tone. they are inherited or caused by an
environmental factor.

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Skin ethnicity
The skin’s ethnicity can be grouped into five basic categories. These are generalised
only for the purposes of identification. Always remember that there are many
variations within these categories.
White/Caucasian
Black
Asian
Oriental
Mixed
Mediterranean/Latino

White Caucasian skin

How to Most likely Features Possible problems

recognise it origin

White Caucasian Britain The skin of blonde Light skins do not tan
skin is the most Northern and or red-haired easily and are at risk of
delicate or fragile western Europe people tends to skin damage, especially
of all the skin North America* have a fine hair if there are large
types, and is light New Zealand* growth, and as amounts of freckles
You and the skin

in colour, often Australia* the hair colour is present. Light skins

with blue or green light or fair, it is not burn quickly and are
eye colouring. It usually noticeable. less tolerant of UV light,
has blue and pink It tends to be fine in so care should be taken
tones from the texture and thinner in hotter climates.
blood capillaries, than in other skin It is prone to early signs
which can be seen types. of ageing and wrinkles,
through the pale and may bruise easily.
epidermis, and its It can be more prone
melanin content is to broken capillaries,
not as high as in especially if the skin is
other skin types. very light.

* People native to these countries have naturally much darker skin than those who have
immigrated over the years from northern Europe. The indigenous people of Canada and
Greenland are the Inuit. The indigenous people of New Zealand are the Maori and the
indigenous people of Australia are the Aboriginals. They have dark skin for protection
against the sunlight.

Think about it
All these basic skin categories provide only a general overview and should never be
used to replace a thorough consultation with the client – and remember: there are
always exceptions to the rule.

Treat each client as an individual, not just a type of skin colour. Different factors apply
with each client: different lifestyles, dietary intake and use of products will determine
how the skin behaves and reacts.

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My story
My name is Sara-Jane.
As you can see from my picture I am a white Caucasian skin type. Being very
fair, I do not tan easily. When I went to Barbados on holiday, I had to be very
careful not to burn my skin. I just go a bright red and then the skin peels!
I find I am quite sensitive to some products, so I tend to stick with the
products I know won’t irritate me – I get a strong itchy feeling and redness
over my cheeks if I use anything too highly perfumed. I am prone to patches
of eczema on my body if I use anything highly perfumed or change my
washing powder.
Being blonde does have some advantages. Lots of people pay their
hairdresser to put highlights in their hair, but mine are natural, with no
regrowth showing through!

Black skin

How to recognise it Most likely origin Features Possible problems

You and the skin

Black skins have more evenly Africa Sebaceous glands are larger Some black skins may be quite
distributed melanocytes, which West Indies/Caribbean and denser, giving good sensitive to products and care should
are larger and more active North America lubrication and moisture, be taken to avoid harsh, abrasive
than in a white/Caucasian skin. making it less prone to products, or strong alcohol-based
Black skin tends to be more premature wrinkles. toners. These types of product are
robust: it has greater elasticity This also means the ageing often used to treat an ‘oily’ skin, but
and strength of collagen process is usually slower black skin is not usually oily at all – the
fibres, giving support to the in black skin, with less cell reflection of light against black skin
skin, so there is less possibility deterioration. Because black often gives the skin a glow or sheen.
of dropped contours of the skin flakes and is shed more As the epidermis is thicker black skin
face. Black skin tends to be quickly than other skins, cell may scar more easily, which can turn
darker across the forehead renewal also tends to be faster. into keloid tissue. This is seen as an
and perimeter of the face but overthickening of the skin, in a pink or
lighter in the middle on the beige colour, which is more noticeable
cheeks. against a darker background.

Think about it Key terms

Skin cancer is not as common in people with black skin as they are protected from the Keloid – a raised formation of scar
harmful UV rays of the sun. Also, the epidermis is considerably thicker than in its white tissue caused by excessive tissue
Caucasian counterpart, and it is therefore less reactive and not prone to allergies or repair in response to trauma or
infection: warts are rarely found on a black skin. surgery when fibroblast cells continue
to multiply and form large mounds
A condition called Dermatosis papulosa nigra occurs almost exclusively in black skin,
of scar tissue. Black skins are more
usually on the cheeks. It consists of brown or raised dark spots. Do not treat if infected
susceptible to keloid formation and
– recommend that the client seeks medical advice.
they may appear on any part of
the body.

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My story
My name is Ogo.
My skin is black, as my parents originally came from Nigeria in Africa.
I think I have good skin, with no real problems, although I don’t wear foundation
as I have trouble finding a colour that suits my skin – lots of foundations
go grey on my skin tone. I can end up with darker circles under my eyes
if I don’t get enough sleep and my cheeks are a shade lighter
than my forehead.
I use a lot of moisturiser to keep my skin from drying out – which can
be a problem if I sunbathe. I do actually tan – and have a strap mark from
my watch in the summer! Also if I get dehydrated I can go a grey colour
because the dead skin cells build up on my skin. I need to drink water regularly
and use an exfoliator to stop me looking ashen.
My only skin problem is stretch marks as I was slightly larger in my teens than I am now. They look like pink lines on my hips
and tummy. I think they are fading slightly, but I am quite conscious of them, as they show up against my darker skin. I hope
I have inherited my Mum’s great bone structure and skin condition – her skin is great even in her fifties!

Asian skin
You and the skin

Asian skin can be divided into two types: dark and light or oriental.

Dark Asian skin

How to recognise it Most likely origin Features Possible problems

Dark Asian skin tends Pakistan This type of skin has more sweat glands, which Wrinkling tends to be minimal,
to be more sallow with India are also larger, to keep the body temperature but the skin may be prone to
a darker tone than Sri Lanka at a manageable level in the heat. It has fewer loss of pigmentation if care is not
light Asian/oriental skin Malaysia problems with oil-related conditions such as taken. It can have a tendency
as there is a higher acne. The skin is often smooth and line-free, towards uneven colouring and
proportion of melanin strong and adaptable, with the underlying fibres pigmentation can cause dark
present. being supportive well into middle age. circles under the eyes.

My story
My name is Poonam.
I come from a small Indian village outside New Delhi.
All of my family have very dark skin and hair. My grandmother is now greying, but
both Nanna and my Mum still have a thick head of hair. My skin is quite strong
and healthy. I am not very sensitive to anything and I can use most products on
it with no problems, but I do have quite a lot of facial hair. I also need to have
my eyebrows threaded regularly. As my Mum has grown older she has become
prone to dark pigmentation patches on her face and neck.

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Light Asian/oriental skin

How to recognise it Most likely origin Features Possible problems

Light Asian/oriental skin Japan The skin is often smooth and This skin tends to scar easily and there may be
has yellow undertones, China fine, with minimal blemishes. irregularities in the skin’s surface seen as pitting
and can develop an olive Middle East This skin type rarely shows or unevenness. Hyperpigmentation may also
tone. The base colour is Thailand degeneration due to ageing. occur; clients may be concerned about these
cream and this type of skin Hong Kong There is likely to be little or no age spots developing. As the skin can be fairly
is often clear and fine in facial and body hair. The skin oily, especially around the T-zone, this skin type
complexion. has good tolerance of UV and may develop a problem with open pores and
tends not to wrinkle early. comedones along the nose.

My story
My name is Masico.
I come from Japan. Although I have an oily skin I look after it with good skincare products and
I am sure my diet, which is full of fruit and vegetables, helps maintain its condition. In Japan
we eat very healthily with a diet low in carbohydrates and fats/butter, so we have fewer problems
with obesity or heart disease than western countries – I am sure that is also reflected in my skin’s
condition. I do worry about getting sun spots so I make sure I use good sun protection of SPF 30.
As I have a lot of yellow surface tones if I use the wrong concealers I tend to look a bit grey –

You and the skin

so I use a peach corrector to even my skin tone out. Still, I am lucky as I don’t need to wear a
lot of make-up as my skin is clear.

Mixed race (multi-ethnic) skin

How to recognise it Most likely origin Features Possible problems

A client with mixed race skin will Mixed parentage These will vary The skin will be more of a product of the mixture
need a very thorough consultation from any ethnic considerably. of parents and the environment. The correct
to ensure that the skin analysis is background. product use will also dictate how clear the skin is,
correct, as those with this skin type and whether the acid mantle is intact and doing
are likely to have a combination of its job correctly. This skin type is the easiest one to
influencing factors. misdiagnose.

Think about it
A student with one Chinese parent and one white/Caucasian parent has skin which
looks quite oily, with blocked pores and comedones present. There are dry patches on
the cheek area – but is this really dry skin?

The problem might be down to product use – the top layer of the epidermis is perhaps
being dried out with alcohol-based toners (for an oily skin), which are too strong. They
would cause the dry patches but would not address the oil production still taking place
in the sebaceous glands underneath. The horny layer would not shed properly, so a
build-up of cells forms the dry patches. In a case like this, good exfoliation will help,
along with gentle steaming to aid extraction and then application of the correct water-
based product. Avoid any oil-based products on an already oily skin.

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Additional knowledge
Mediterranean/Latino skin
There is one other skin type you may come across which, although it is not a range for NVQ Level 2, is still a recognisable
skin type. That is Mediterranean/Latino skin.

How to Most likely Features Possible problems

recognise it origin

A golden skin Spain This skin type tends to be oilier, due to the sebaceous glands There is a tendency
with olive Italy producing more sebum to keep the skin lubricated in the heat. for excessive facial
undertones. Southern France It therefore tends not to dry out too much, and is slow to form and body hair. The
Portugal wrinkles. As the hair colour is also darker, facial and body hair is skin may be fairly
Greece more noticeable and often grows thicker and is coarse in texture. tough and tends to
Southern and This skin type is robust and less prone to damage; it can withstand thicken as it ages.
Central America higher levels of UV without burning, and tends to tan more easily.

My story
My name is Christiana.
I come from Cyprus and both my parents are originally from Greece. I have a typical Mediterranean
You and the skin

skin – dark and tanned. I don’t have to worry too much about burning and I tan really easily –
we all do in my family. That is the good side about my skin – my only problem is that I tend
to get blackheads around my nose and on my chin, so I am very careful to cleanse my skin
thoroughly to prevent them. I have quite a lot of facial hair and have very strong hair on my
head – which grows very fast, but the down side is that my leg and under-arm hair do the
same. I spend a fortune on waxing!

The photosensitivity of skin For your portfolio

This is the term used to describe how the skin reacts to sunlight and UV rays, Of the skin types mentioned here,
real or artificial. The skin may break out in a heat rash; this condition is called which colouring or skin type do you
Photodermatosis. It may be caused by exposure to UV, or a reaction from a topical recognise as similar to your own?
application of a product that reacts with UV, a metabolic defect within the body, a How does your skin react in sunlight?
genetic disorder, which has been inherited, or a pre-existing skin disease. Look up which sun protection factor
(SPF) creams would be most suitable

The Fitzpatrick classification system for skin types for your skin. See pages 216–17
for more detail on SPFs. Fill out a
We have seen how skin can be classified by type, condition and ethnic origin. Some consultation card as if you were
cosmetic houses base their product ranges – especially sun protection creams – your own client. What would you be
around the Fitzpatrick classification system. noting as your skin particulars and
needs?
The system was developed in the US by a dermatologist, Dr Thomas Fitzpatrick of
Havard University, in 1975. It is based upon melanin content in the skin and how
quickly the skin burns. The system classifies the skin into six different types, ranging
from extremely light-skinned people, who are highly likely to burn, to extremely dark-
skinned people, who may suffer serious discoloration from laser or light treatment or
other pigment-altering therapies or conditions.

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The Fitzpatrick classification is often used by dermatologists using laser and light
Think about it
therapy as it can help highlight the risks of poor reactions to treatment.
The Fitzpatrick classification system
A variety of questions are asked about genetic history, physical attributes such as eye
should be used as a guideline
colour, hair colour and freckling, and personal observations of the skin’s reaction to rather than a definitive analysis for
sunlight. Depending on the answers to the questions, most people fit into one of the determining skincare. You must
six skin categories, usually labelled with roman numerals I–VI. always conduct a full consultation, a
manual and visual examination and
Skin type Typical features Ability to tan employ all diagnostic tools available
I Celtic, English, Northern Pale white, fair skin, blue/ Always burns, freckles, to you as a therapist.
European hazel eyes, blonde/red hair does not tan

II Nordic, North American White, fair skin, sandy to Burns easily, tans poorly
Think about it
brown hair, green, brown and with difficulty, freckles
or blue eyes You are not medically trained and
must not recommend treatment
III Central/Eastern Darker or olive white skin, Tans after initial burn
of a medical nature. Do not pass
European, Mediterranean, brown hair, green or brown
comment on any skin irregularity you
Maori (New Zealand) eyes
may observe; instead refer the client
IV Chinese, Korean, Olive to light brown skin, Burns minimally, tans easily to her GP.
Japanese, Thai, South brown hair, brown eyes
American, Indian, Filipino

You and the skin

V East African, Ethiopian, Dark brown skin, black hair, Rarely burns, tans darkly
Northern African, Middle- dark brown eyes easily
Eastern Arabic

VI African type, American- Dark brown, black eyes, Never burns, always tans
African dark brown or black skin darkly The Fitzpatrick skin-type categories

Tools for diagnosing skin types and

conditions
The magi lamp
A good magnification lamp with a surrounding light is the ideal tool for examining the
skin’s surface; the magnification glass allows you to get a clear picture of blemishes
and problems. Always check the lamp is working prior to putting it over the client’s
face: check the light bulb and the screws and joints so that it is safe, and not likely to
drop suddenly.

For your portfolio

To determine your own skin type there are many websites offering complete
questionnaires for the Fitzpatrick skin classification. Why not have a go to see your own
skin type!

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A skin scanner

Skin scanners and black light equipment

There are some very effective diagnostic tools for use in salons which give an in-depth
analysis of black skins and for measuring the acid mantle, pH of the skin, melanin
You and the skin

and water content, as well as density and strength of the dermis. These machines
have been use by dermatologists for years and salons are finding them very useful to
support the other diagnostic and consultation techniques used.

Think about it Wood’s lamp or black light

The Wood’s lamp (often called a black light) was invented by Robert William Wood
The colours produced by the Wood’s
lamp will vary depending upon the
in 1903. It was designed to produce a source of UV light and was used in hospitals
make of lamp. Always follow the to detect fungal and bacterial infections and parasites. Its clinical use in salons is to
manufacturer’s instructions. detect skin conditions.

Colour of fluorescence Skin type or problem

Blue Normal balanced skin

Weak violet/light purple Dry skin or patches of dehydration

Dark purple Sensitive, thin, fragile areas

Coral pink Dehydrated skin

Strong white Thickened stratum corneum and the presence of dead skin cells

Orange Oily skin or patches of overproductive sebaceous glands

Brown spots Overpigmentation/sun damage

Light yellow Acne, comedones

Identifying skin conditions using a
Wood’s lamp Green Presence of pathogen Pseudomonas – a bacterial infection

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A Wood’s lamp produces deep UV rays. It makes the skin glow, signifying
different conditions and problems. There are both hand-held and box versions.
The hand-held type is difficult to get a true reading from because the face
needs to be in darkness. Ideally, the salon needs to be blacked out to operate
the machine correctly, but this is rarely possible. With a box machine the
client is seated, and the face is placed on a chin rest, rather like having an eye
examination at the optician, and the curtain is pulled around the head so that
the face is in darkness. The UV light can then be turned on to the skin. Certain
colours will appear in patches which will indicate the skin’s condition.

These areas can be noted down on the consultation card and the appropriate
treatment and products recommended to the client.

Skin scanners
Hydration levels
The Corneometer® measures the skin’s moisture content. It indicates
whether the acid mantle is still intact and whether the skin’s defence barrier
is adequate. It also shows the enzyme action of the epidermis. The scanner
looks rather like a pen, with a flat end, which is placed on the skin’s surface;
the reading appears on the attached machine. It is used in hospitals for patient
intake of fluid.

You and the skin

Skin lipid levels
The Sebumeter® determines the amount of sebum being excreted by the
sebaceous glands on to the skin’s surface to check if the acid mantle protection
is in good condition. The sebum of the skin or hair is taken by a film on the
cassette’s measuring head. Its transparency changes according to the sebum
content on the film and is then analysed. If the skin’s lipid or fat content is low,
the acid mantle is unable to defend the skin properly. This could be because
the client’s diet is deficient in essential fatty acids. This is a good tool to use
but is only one of the diagnostic procedures – your consultation will also reveal
a lot about the skin’s condition.

Melanin and erythema

There are also machines which measure melanin and blood flow in the
skin. This can help determine which skincare and sunscreen products will
be most useful to recommend to the client. This is used with the Fitzpatrick
classification system of skin-burning capacity.

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Face shapes and contours

It is not only the skin colour that characterises each ethnic identity; the shape of the
skull and the bones form the contours of the face, giving the distinguishing features
of different ethnic groups.
The position of the bones of the skull gives the face its shape, as the bones provide
the attachment for all the muscles. The underlying bones dictate how high the
cheeks are, how far apart the eyes are and so on. The jawbone dictates the shape
of the face, along with the frontal bone, making the face square, round, oblong or
heart-shaped. Apart from weight loss or gain, which will alter facial contours, nothing
will alter your face shape unless you have corrective surgery to alter the bones
themselves or have implants put under the skin or muscles to alter the contours.

For your portfolio Face shape How to recognise it

Identifying face shapes correctly takes Oval face This face shape and bone structure is considered to
some practice and may not be a shape be the ideal face shape. The chin tapers slenderly
skill you pick up right away. You can from a slightly wider forehead. The aim of make-up
practise by identifying the shape of is to accentuate the natural shape.
your own face.

Pull your hair back off your face.

You and the skin

Using a biggish mirror, look at your

own face shape. Try to analyse and
Round face The face is usually short and broad with full cheeks
match the shape of your face to one
shape and round contours. Width at the top of the head
of the diagrams. If your forehead and
should be provided, with height from the hair, which
jaw line are the same, you probably
should be worn close at the sides. The aim of make-
have a square face shape. If you have
up is to slim the appearance.
quite a pointed chin, you probably
have a heart face shape. Draw your
face outline on the mirror (using a
pen that will rub off!) and see what Square face The forehead is broad, corresponding with an
shape you really are. shape angular jawline. This shaped face should have a little
height without width and the hair should taper well
towards the jawline. The aim of the make-up is to
narrow the forehead and the jawline, reducing the
squareness of this bone structure.

Oblong face This face shape has a narrow frame. The make-up
shape aim is to create the impression of width and to
shorten the face length. A fringe with short hair
would be suitable.

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Heart face This shape usually has a wide forehead with the face
shape tapering to a long jawline, rather like an inverted
triangle. The aim of the make-up is to reduce the
width across the forehead, emphasising the jawline.

Diamond The forehead in this bone structure is narrow with

face shape the cheekbones extremely wide tapering to a narrow
chin. The make-up aims to minimise the width
across the cheekbones. A central fringe should be
worn with hair full below the cheeks but flat at the
cheekbone line.

Pear face The forehead is narrow and the face gradually

shape widens to the angle of the jaw which is broad and
prominent. The make-up should aim to create the
impression of width across the forehead and to
narrow the jaw line. The hair should be swept off
the forehead to create an illusion of width with a
reverse flicking fringe.

You and the skin

Triangular This is similar to the heart-shaped face, but not as
face shape soft. The aim of the make-up is to reduce the width
of the forehead, by emphasising the jawline.

Contra-indications to facial
treatments
Skin treatments must not be carried out if the client has a potential skin problem
that would prevent the treatment from taking place. This is described as a contra-
indication to treatment.
Contra-indications include:
infections – bacterial, viral and fungal infections of eyes, lips or face
open cuts and abrasions
broken bones or bruising
acute acne
severe eczema or psoriasis
recent invasive procedures such as chemical or medical peels (glycolic or AHA),
Botox® injections, collagen or other filler injections in the face
recent waxing

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certain types of medication, including Retin A and Accutane used to treat topical
acne
recent cancer treatment
recent dental work.
Refer to Professional basics (pages 39–40) for details of micro-organisms and the
diseases they cause and also how to minimise the risk of infection.

Infections – viral
The common cold Cold sores (Herpes simplex) Warts

Freely recognised. Streaming eyes and Found on the lips, cheeks and nose. Blisters Small compact raised growths of skin – can
nose, coughing and sneezing, easily form, the skin is broken and painful; the be light or brown in colour, present on the
spread. blisters are especially likely to spread when face and neck.
You and the skin

open and weepy and then crusts form.

Infections – bacterial
Impetigo Boils Conjunctivitis Stye

Highly infectious, this starts This infection forms at the This is a nasty eye condition. This is a small boil at the base
as small red spots, which base of a hair follicle. Bacteria The eyelids are red and sore, of the eyelash follicle.
then break open and form can spread through an open with itching. Mainly caused It is raised, sore and red; there
blisters. Most common around scratch in the skin. The area by bacteria present, it can be may be considerable swelling in
the corner of the mouth is raised, red, and painful. Pus irritated by a virus or an allergy. the area.
and, if picked, will spread. may be present.
(Some strains are particularly
resistant to antibiotics.) Can
be spread through use of dirty
equipment.

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Infections – fungal
Ringworm (Tinea corporis) Blepharitis

Red pimples appear and then form a circle, An infection of the lid causing
with clear skin in the middle. It is highly inflammation, the eye will look red and
contagious and scales and pustules follow. sore. Depending on the severity of the
It can be spread on to the face from any condition, it may be better to avoid eye
other area of the body. Can be passed make-up application altogether, and focus
on to humans by contact with domestic attention on the mouth, with a pretty
animals. lipstick shade.

Conditions restricting the effectiveness of Think about it

treatment All of the conditions mentioned

You and the skin

would be a contra-indication
The following conditions are contra-indications that will not necessarily stop the
to a facial treatment of make-
treatment from taking place, but they may mean that a facial or make-up application
up application to the face. The
has to be restricted and/or adapted. Most of these conditions are common sense and
beauty therapist is responsible for
professional judgement can be used. If the problem is not directly on the face or neck,
protecting everyone in the salon
where the facial or make-up application takes place, then just avoid the area.
from contamination via these micro-
Each one will depend upon the individual case, the client granting permission, and organisms.
then giving written permission on the record card. (Refer to Professional basics pages
29–31 for further information on the client record card; see also practical units on
individual treatments and services.)

Cuts/abrasions/broken skin Bruises or swelling Recent scar tissue

If recent, a scab will be forming, the skin Easily recognised as a swelling, with Usually a different colour from the rest of the
may be tender and swollen in the area, and discoloration in varying shades. Avoid skin, following the line of injury. If the scar is
bruising may be seen. If cuts and abrasions altogether if recent or painful to the recent, raised or angry looking, then avoid
are recent, then avoid the area altogether. touch. If healing has taken place, a gentle the area altogether. If the area is healing
If the area has healed over, and is not too application of make-up will help to blend in and not very large, gentle application with
recent, get the client’s agreement that the colour differences to the client’s normal client’s permission. Scar tissue less than six
gentle application can take place, with shade. Always ask for client’s agreement. months old, or over a large area, should not
careful consideration to hygiene. be touched with make-up.

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Eczema Dermatitis Psoriasis

Very dry skin, often scaly and flaky, can This is similar to eczema in appearance, Seen as scaly patches of red and/or silvery
be red and often very itchy. If the eczema but the cause is not the same. A reaction skin. This can break open and become
covers a large area, and is inflamed with or allergy to something in contact with the sore. The cause is unknown but is thought
broken skin, then leave alone, and suggest skin usually causes dermatitis. See Eczema to relate to the nervous system. A contra-
a visit to the GP. You may make it worse. (left). indication would be if the psoriasis is
If the eczema has irritated the eye area, it Skin allergies may result in a contra-action, open or bleeding. One of the common
is unlikely the client would want make- so if the client’s skin tends to react, do a sites for psoriasis is the scalp, so the client
up application. If it is only a small patch skin patch test 24 hours prior to the make- may have a little patch visible along the
of eczema, and not angry, just exclude up application. It may be advisable to use hairline. If the client agrees to make-up
the area from treatment. The use of hypoallergenic make-up; ask the client to application, and it is not directly over the
hypoallergenic products is recommended bring in her own make-up if she knows she area, then continue. A patch test 24 hours
You and the skin

and patch test if the client is very sensitive. is safe using it. prior to the application of make-up is
advisable to ensure that the condition is
not aggravated.

Acne vulgaris Acne rosacea Skin tags

Inflamed whiteheads, blackheads and Seen as a flush of red over the nose and Usually found on the eye area or lids and/
pustules in various degrees of congestion. cheeks with a raised feel to the skin. Often or on the side of the neck. They resemble
Mostly associated with hormones – and those who have suffered Acne vulgaris in little ‘mushrooms’ of skin on a stalk which
the presence of bacteria can make the youth are prone to Acne rosacea in later move when touched. This skin tag is under
condition infected. life. If the skin is not tender and the client the arm.
Infected inflamed acne is a contra- agrees, application of make-up can tone As these are not painful or dangerous,
indication. However, a client with mild acne down the redness and therefore lessen the make-up application can take place. If
can be treated in the salon, and a light angry look of the skin. they become enlarged and irritating to the
water-based foundation applied. There may client they can be removed under local
be a tendency to greasy skin, and therefore anaesthetic, usually at the GP’s surgery.
a light application of powder keeps the
skin looking matt.

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Milia

These are small white pearls under the skin,

often around the eyes or on the side of
the cheek, caused by a build-up of sebum.
Make-up application can take place over
milia, as they are not infectious.

Other skin conditions –

pigmentation disorders
These disorders are caused by irregularities in the skin’s melanin production. They
are not infectious and are not a contra-indication to facial or make-up treatments.
However, pigmentation disorders do affect the client’s appearance and may make
the client feel embarrassed and self-conscious; as a therapist, you therefore need to
treat them sensitively. The use of remedial camouflage cosmetics may help more
effectively with the matching of the pigmentation than ordinary foundations and

You and the skin

concealers. (Refer to Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage for more
information on products available.)
Permanent make-up techniques can also help with pigmentation loss – it is a form
of tattooing the skin but with the right colour of skin tone rather than coloured ink as
in a tattoo. This is carried out by specially trained therapists as it is permanent and
therefore there is no margin for error.
There are two main types of pigmentation disorders.
hypopigmentation (hypo = less than normal)
hyperpigmentation (hyper = more than normal).

Melanoderma
This is a general term used to describe patchy pigmentation. This is usually an
increase in melanin caused by applying cosmetics or perfume which contain light-
sensitive ingredients (e.g. bergamot oil used in the perfume industry) – the skin
becomes extra sensitive to UV light. Some drugs have a similar effect. This can
also follow inflammation and is sometimes the cause of brown patches following
sunburn.
Hormones can often cause overpigmentation too. For example, there is a condition
which occurs during pregnancy, called ‘the mask of pregnancy’, where the skin
darkens in the shape of a mask or butterfly over the upper face, often into a deep
brown colour, up to the hair line. It fades slightly after giving birth but will be extra
sensitive to light for many years afterwards – sun creams should always be applied
to the area as it will darker considerably more than the rest of the face.

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Vitiligo Chloasma Freckles (Ephilidies)

This is hypopigmentation; a condition in This is hyperpigmentation. It consists of These are tiny, flat irregular patches of
which small patches of skin have lost their irregular patches of brown pigment caused pigment on fair-skinned people, particularly
pigmentation and appear a lighter colour by the overproduction of melanocytes. blonde/redheads. They are due to the
than the rest of the skin. These lighter This often appears on the face during uneven distribution of melanin, and this
areas burn easily in the sun and need pregnancy and is sometimes linked to the becomes more noticeable on exposure to
protection. They are not raised or painful contraceptive pill. The discoloration usually strong sunlight. The freckles often increase
to the touch. If the discoloration is in large disappears when the hormone balance is in size and join together. The skin between
patches a specialist camouflage make-up restored. the freckles contains little or no melanin,
should be applied to conceal and match so burns easily. As a therapist you should
the skin tone. This may mean referral to a recommend a good sunscreen to the client.
specialist. If the patch is small, clever choice
of foundation and careful application is
acceptable.
You and the skin

Lentigo Haemangioma Dilated capillaries

Also known as ‘age spots’, these are larger This consists of various conditions caused This is the result of loss of elasticity in the
and more distinctive than a freckle, and by the permanent dilation of superficial walls of the blood capillaries – the cheeks
may be slightly raised. This pigmentation blood vessels. Stimulating treatments and the nose are often most affected.
does not increase in number or darken on will therefore be a contra-indication to Exposure to weather, harsh handling and
exposure to UV light. treatment, but camouflage cosmetics can lack of protection, along with spicy foods
be used. and alcohol, can be contributing factors.
Clients with dry/sensitive skin types are
most likely to be affected.

Split capillaries

Weakening and rupturing of capillary

walls – clients should avoid stimulating
treatments. This condition can be treated
by diathermy.

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Other skin conditions – Naevus

This describes a variety of birthmarks and developmental abnormalities. It is the most
common disorder involving melanocytes.

Strawberry naevus Spider naevus Port wine stain

This is a raised and distorted area, often on A central dilated vessel with leg-like This is a bright purple, irregular-shaped, flat
the face, bright pink/red. It appears a few projections of capillaries. The face and birthmark that can vary in size. It is thought
days or weeks after birth and usually clears cheeks tend to be most affected and this to be due to damage by pressure during
up completely by the age of eight. often occurs during pregnancy due to the foetal development. These birthmarks grow
increase in oestrogen levels. with the body and can be quite disfiguring
to the client. As a therapist you should
always treat such marks sensitively with
good cosmetic camouflage make-up.

Allergic reactions and sensitivity

You and the skin

testing
Both in the European Union and the USA the law requires that cosmetic companies
conduct very strict safety tests on materials they use to formulate products.
Nevertheless, there will always be some people who are allergic to a substance that
other people can tolerate without a problem.
An allergic reaction is a method of defence. The skin produces histamine – a
compound derived from the amino acid histidine – found in mast cells in nearly all
tissues of the body. Histamine causes dilation of blood vessels and contraction of
smooth muscle: it is an important moderator of inflammation and is released in large
amounts after skin damage.
A reaction could include:
redness (erythema)
swelling
irritation to the area
pain or itching in the area.
This is not a common reaction but may occur if clients have an allergy to any
active ingredients within a product, or other common substances such as nickel,
food or nuts. Some allergic reactions are life-threatening as the throat closes up
and swells so that breathing is inhibited. Adrenalin needs to be administered in
the form of an EpiPen® injection, and clients who suffer with this normally carry
emergency medication to literally save their lives. This type of reaction can happen
with strawberries, shellfish or even with a bee or wasp sting. It is therefore essential
that you complete a sensitivity test if you are concerned that the client may react

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to a product. This can be done by testing a small sample of the product behind
Think about it
the client’s ear or in the crook of the elbow. If a reaction occurs within 24 hours the
Lots of products used within facials product should not be used.
are nut-based – almond oil in
massage, for example. Always check
If a client does develop a reaction, stop the treatment and treat with calamine lotion
with the client at the consultation and a cold compress as necessary. Always make a note on the record card so that
stage, before starting treatment, for the product is not used again on the client. (Refer to Professional basics, page 35, for
potential allergic reactions. information on contra-actions.)

Choosing suitable products

Product labelling
By law, ingredients which are known to be irritants (or sensitisers) must be listed
on the packaging, together with the precautions for use. Some facial and make-
up products contain substances which cause allergic reactions in people who are
hypersensitive. For example:
 lanolin – a fatty substance used as a softening agent in skin
creams and lipsticks
 eosin – a red dye found in some lipsticks
 perfumes – particularly those containing bergamot, lavender
and cedarwood
You and the skin

 alcohol – a grease solvent and astringent used in cosmetics

and skincare products
 cobalt blue – a pigment used to produce eye make-up
colours
 pearlising agents – ingredients which give products a
shimmering effect
 gums – adhesives and binding agents in cosmetics.
Always check ingredients labels if
you know your client is allergic to Eye irritation
particular additives
Although products used around the eye area are very strictly tested, and only safe
pigments are used, some can still cause irritation to some clients.

Hypoallergenic products
If your client has sensitive or allergic skin you should use this type of product, which
contains no perfume as well as fewer pigments and preservatives. Organic facial
products are also freely available now, and are preferred by many clients; the only
drawback may be that they lack preservatives and have a limited shelf life. Most
large cosmetic and product companies recognise the need to produce quality products
that are neither comedogenic nor allergy causing and so use food grade preservatives.
Products are now also more environmentally friendly, with packaging that is
recyclable and biodegradable, and many companies refuse to test products on
animals.

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 You and the skin

Male skin
When looking at skin types and conditions, it is
important to include the male skin, as males are
becoming big spenders in the skincare market. In the
USA men spent approximately 10 billion dollars on
personal grooming products in 2007, according to a
survey picked up by the Guardian newspaper. Even
though this includes the large number of deodorant
and shaving products that most men use, it is still
a lot of money. One of the fastest-growing areas
within beauty is the demand for specific men’s salon Men have become big spenders in the
treatments and related care products. skincare market

Characteristics of male skin

Male skin is thicker than female skin due to the influence of the male hormones
testosterone and androgen. It is therefore more resistant but can become thinner more
quickly when ageing. Because of the testosterone influences, men’s skin tends to be
oilier than women’s, so men like lighter moisturising products and products which
solve their particular problems. Men also prefer less fragrance in their products or for
it to have a masculine smell of cedarwood or pine.

You and the skin

Products for male skin
Previous generations of men would be happy to use their
wife’s moisturiser if their skin felt a little dry, but few would
venture out into the salon or department store for a full
consultation before purchasing their own products. Not any
longer. The salon or company that caters for male skins is
on to a winning formula – it is no longer seen as effeminate
to use facial products, especially with high-profile sports
personalities promoting different ranges in the media.
Products designed for men have evolved to take into account
that the skin is more resistant but, conversely, may also be
more fragile through neglect, misuse or total lack of protective
products such as moisturisers and sun blocks.
Most men’s basic product needs are for the daily routine
of washing, shaving and moisturising. Calming products
may also be needed for the specific treatment of blocked
pores, irritation from shaving and razor burn or Folliculitis
(inflammation of the hair follicle in the skin, commonly
caused by an infection). A growing number of men are visiting
salons for treatments such as facials
Men who shave daily are automatically exfoliating the upper epidermal cells, so the and manicures
skin stays healthy looking and clear. There are many products available for sensitive
skins, both for dry and wet shaving, to avoid shaving rash, which can be very sore and
unsightly.

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Healing and soothing products, creams that reduce razor

bumps, products that reduce the possibility of ingrown hairs
are popular. Anti-ageing creams (although the name is
misleading – nothing stops the ageing process) are also a
fast-selling line. Although the signs of ageing appear later
on a male face, when they do arrive the wrinkles are more
intense and visible – men have fewer small lines but more deep
wrinkles.
Some men use salon treatments to enhance their natural good
points – eyelash tinting and the application of tinted moisturiser
are very common. Manicures and pedicures are also a favourite
with male clients. (Refer to Unit B4 Provide facial skincare
treatment for information on how to prepare for a facial on a
male client.)
Many product ranges are designed
specifically for men
Factors affecting the skin-ageing
process
Along with the skin type your clients inherit, the care they take of it and their general
health, age has to be the other greatest influence on the skin, not only because of
You and the skin

the hormonal impact. Ageing is a natural part of the life cycle of a human being – it
cannot yet be stopped or reversed, and is part of our evolution to keep the species
going.
Unfortunately, western culture is geared up to the young and growing older is not
seen as a desirable trait, unlike eastern cultures where age is equated with wisdom
and knowledge. Western society tries to push back the ageing process and this has
led to a marked rise in the demand for face lifts and extreme beauty treatments, such
as Botox® injections and collagen infills, to delay the ageing process. However, we
are genetically programmed to age, and temporary solutions are expensive, although
they may provide a mental boost to the client. But we should celebrate ageing and
enjoy the wisdom that age brings with it.
Ageing happens to us all and at generally the same rate, unless we have a disease
that interrupts these natural processes. The inherited factor comes into play again – if
your parents age well, enjoy good health and have good skin, the chances are you
will too.
As well as the inheritance factor, the environment has a big impact on the ageing
process. During normal metabolism, your cells make small electrically charged
molecules called free radicals. These are very reactive and will react with proteins,
DNA and some minerals. They can interfere with normal cell function, often causing
irreversible damage that accumulates as we age. It is not yet known which chemicals
within our environment stimulate free radical production: crop sprays, pesticides
and household cleaning items are some of the products under investigation. Those
people living in a built-up area, with exhaust fumes and lots of chemicals in their
environment, are likely to have more free radicals in their body than country dwellers,
who live in a less-polluted environment and on a diet of freshly grown organic fruit
and vegetables.

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 You and the skin

The ageing process affects the skin in the following ways.

Cell renewal is always faster in youth. The older we get, the slower the renewal
process becomes, until it stops altogether.
The genetic information in each cell gets a little diluted every time the cell
reproduces, so the body cells of an 80-year-old do not have the same information
as a young baby’s.
Hormone production in both sexes varies with age and contributes to the skin’s
development, health and deterioration.
Fewer skin cells are being reproduced as a person gets older.
The underlying structures supporting the skin begin to offer less support – the
collagen and elastin fibres in the skin degenerate, muscular tension diminishes
and wrinkles appear.
The adipose tissue (the fat) supporting the skin diminishes and the skin starts to
sag and gravity begins to win!
Sun damage and pigmentation disorders become more noticeable as the melanin
production within the skin lessens. Age or liver spots (lentigo) may appear on the
surface of the epidermis.
The face shape may alter if extensive dental work has been done or teeth are
replaced with false ones – this causes the contours to drop and may make the
face age.

You and the skin

Age grouping of the skin
Teenage years, 13–20 years
Just as the body is changing at puberty and getting ready for the reproduction stage of
the human life cycle, so the emotional development also begins, making teenagers
acutely aware of themselves and their relationships with their peers.
In females puberty is beginning earlier, often by the age of ten or twelve, which
is largely due to better nutrition. Raging hormones dictate the development of the
body, causing both the sexual development and the emotional highs and lows that
accompany this dramatic change.
At this age the skin should be firm and compact, with a good supporting structure
of collagen and elastin to give it a smooth feel. Unfortunately, the hormone levels
can be unbalanced and the sebaceous glands can produce too much sebum, leading
to blackheads and congested skin. Acne is common in this age group and may be
directly related to high progesterone levels, so is more common in boys than girls.
Teenage boys may also cause skin problems by neglect – regular skin cleaning
with the correct products can diminish skin problems but can be perceived as not
a masculine pastime. However, with males taking a larger proportion of retail skin
care sales than ever before, there is no reason for a male not to use a foaming facial
cleanser designed for the male skin to help keep the skin clear.
A proportion of late-teen skins are not as clear as they could be for reasons that are
self-inflicted. A poor diet of fast food, few vegetables and an excessive alcohol intake,
combined with smoking, do nothing to enhance the skin. The only advantage is that
this age group has youth on its side and the skin will recover more easily.

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In the thirties, skin begins to dry out

Teenagers have firm, compact skin Skin is at its peak in the twenties
and fine lines appear

Adulthood, 20–30 years

This is when the chubbiness of the teenage years and the raging hormones disappear,
You and the skin

or at least settle down, so the skin is at its peak. It looks fresh, radiant and glowing.
The underlying structure is good, there are no fine lines developing yet, and providing
good health is enjoyed and a healthy diet gives the body the correct nutrients, the
skin is good.
Tiredness in young parents, bad lifestyle choices and simply ‘burning the candle at
both ends’ will take its toll on this generation if care is not taken. Good choices in the
appropriate skincare range and protection with a moisturiser, along with correct use of
sunscreens, will be an investment for the future.

30–40 years
The skin begins to dry out and slows its reproduction down, with fine lines appearing,
usually on the neck area first. The jawline is firmly defined at the beginning of the
decade but can show signs of change. It may lose its definition, or if the client puts
on weight, it will fill out and a double chin may form. Puffiness may be found in the
cheeks – any weight gain in the face or body is instantly ageing.
The facial tissues begin to lose their fatty layer and tiredness can creep into the
eye area. Creases and wrinkles remain after the depressions that form them have
disappeared. Correct use of skincare products and protection against UV damage is
essential in this age group as prevention is better than cure. A neck and hand cream
will prevent dehydration, that is water loss. Many clients forget this – they may
spend a fortune on their faces and forget that hands and neck areas are the true age
reflector.
40–50 years
There is still a good clear definition of features, but ‘temporary’ double chins and
wrinkles developed in the late thirties become a permanent feature. Elasticity and
the supporting structures of collagen and elastin fibres are diminishing, especially if

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The skin’s elasticity disappears in the In the fifties, skin will be lined around When we reach sixty, care must be
forties the eyes and the mouth taken to lubricate the skin

the client is female and is undergoing the menopause, which may start towards the
fifties. Oestrogen levels start to fall and this affects bone density, elasticity in the

You and the skin

tissues and skin thickness.
The skin becomes thinner and more prone to damage from UV and the environment.
Blemishes, broken capillaries and pigmentation changes begin to occur.

50–70 years
All women will have begun the menopause in this age group and the skin will be
loose and thin. It may feel coarse to the touch, and the eyes are lined and puffy.
The muscle tissue around the eye and mouth develop depressions, seen as wrinkles
around them, and the lip line loses definition. The sebaceous glands have slowed
down the production of sebum and care must be taken to keep the skin lubricated
and free from infection. With ageing the skin loses some of its ability to fight infection
and heal itself quickly. Facial hair growth may start to be obvious around the mouth
and chin. This hair is coarse and thick because of the influence of the male hormone
testosterone which is not being balanced by oestrogen.

Over 70 years
At this stage the skin has the appearance of being soft. There may be very little
underlying fat to support the facial structure, and deeper furrows appear from the
corner of the nose towards the lips and from the outer mouth down to the chin.
Darkened patches may appear, or loss of pigment may be seen, especially on the
hands and arms. The throat, neck and chest are very lined and like tissue paper, with
very little sebum to lubricate the skin.

Can we slow the rate of ageing?

Evidence suggests that genes affect how long people live: long life seems to run
in families. It is also known that cells have a programmed maximum number of
divisions before they die off, so your life span is, to some degree, predetermined.

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However, there are some sensible precautions you should be advising your clients to
take.
Eat healthily – people on lower calorie diets tend to live longer and meeting the
body’s additional demands as you age is important, e.g. a female who has heavy
periods throughout her life will need more iron, a menopausal client will need
more calcium to help keep bones healthy.
Keep physically active – three half-hour aerobic sessions a week will help to
keep circulation and metabolism going and will stimulate the body to repair itself
(a brisk walk or swim will get the cardiovascular system working).
Get enough sleep or rest – rest allows the body to repair and heal itself and the
brain activity to slow and so the brain can sift through all the stimulation it has
received during the day. Sleep deprivation is very harmful to the body in the long
term.
Remain mentally active – the more you use your brain, the better it works and
the longer you remain alert. Doing a crossword, mental arithmetic, music and
learning poetry is an ideal brain activity as you get older.
Remember good health maintenance – this includes avoiding smoking (very
ageing on the skin), moderate alcohol intake and low medication levels.

Anti-ageing treatments
You and the skin

The key here is ‘prevention is better than cure’. In other words, encourage the client to
look after their skin as early as possible, rather than waiting until the signs of ageing
have begun to show. Looking after the skin in the twenties and thirties and developing
good skincare habits, sun protection and work/life balance will pay dividends for a
client in their sixties.
Anti-ageing treatments cannot turn back years of poor skin care and neglect, nor can
they stop the ageing process. Some can significantly enhance the skin’s appearance
immediately. However, continuous treatments are needed for a long-term effect. The
only true anti-ageing creams are sun protection creams with a high SPF factor – these
prevent the skin from being harmed by the sun’s rays.

Moisturisers
Contrary to popular belief, moisturisers do not add moisture to
the skin, but rather they prevent moisture from being lost. This is
achieved with the use of non-irritating oils and emollients such as
lanolin, or vegetable-based or petroleum-based oils, which form
a thin layer on top of the epidermis and stop water from literally
evaporating out of the body. The result is that the outermost layers
of the skin absorb the water being released by the deeper layers, so
small wrinkles are filled out and the skin looks and feels a lot softer.
Moisturising the skin also helps protect it from air pollution, harsh
weather conditions and the drying effect of air conditioners. Most
importantly, the majority of moisturisers contain ingredients that
provide UV protection, which can affect the skin throughout the year,
not just in the summer months.
Moisturising products prevent
moisture loss from the skin

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Salon treatments
Any treatment which helps the desquamation process, that is the old cells
of the epidermis being shed and new cells coming to the surface, is going
to help the skin look clean and fresh. Combine a treatment that deep
cleanses and then rehydrates the skin using an electrical current, such as
in a galvanic facial, and the result is instant: the skin looks plump and
refreshed and very, very clean. However, as we have already discovered,
nothing prevents the ageing process, so all salon treatments will only
last as long as the treatments are carried out on a regular basis. Scrubs,
face masks and electrical treatments will work on the outer layers of
the epidermis and will improve the look and feel of the skin. However,
under the Trade Descriptions Act, a salon would be liable to prosecution if
advertising these treatments as anti-ageing.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and skin peels

These treatments work by applying a chemical agent or acid (e.g. AHAs
or vitamin A in the form of retionic acid) to the skin which dissolves the
outermost layers, thus temporarily reducing fine lines and other superficial
signs of ageing. However, the long-term effects of such skin peels are
not yet known and adverse reactions are quite common, particularly if the
concentration of the active ingredient is quite high, or if the product is left
on the skin for too long. Peels also leave the skin far more susceptible to

You and the skin

damage from UV rays and so sun protection is essential following treatment.
These treatments should only be carried out by trained professionals and a
full aftercare programme is recommended as the skin is left vulnerable.
Salon treatments such as a facial mask
Dermabrasion help the skin look clean and fresh
Dermabrasion (also referred to as ‘open’ dermabrasion) is a harsh skin treatment: it
usually involves the use of wire brushes or diamonds to remove the epidermis down
to the lowest possible cell layer. Micro-dermabrasion (or ‘closed’ dermabrasion) is a
milder form of the same treatment, whereby minute aluminium oxide crystals are
blown on to the face with the use of a vacuum unit. Again, the removal of the top
cells of the epidermis will encourage new cell formation and give the skin a renewed
look, but it can leave the skin vulnerable and some clients may experience soreness.
This treatment needs to be carried out by a professionally trained therapist, with a
full consultation and aftercare given. Some medical treatments make this unsuitable:
for example, if the client has been taking medication such as Accutane to treat
acne, then the skin is already thin and dermabrasion is not suitable. If the client has
recently had filler of collagen injected or Botox® injections, again do not treat. It may
mean that the filler is dispersed through the tissue, and spreads!

Laser skin resurfacing

The word ‘laser’ is an acronym for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of
Radiation, and laser therapy for the skin is becoming a very popular salon treatment.
Laser treatment can be used for skin ageing and wrinkles, as the light stimulates the
capillary level, so improving the circulation. Acne and cellulite also respond well to
laser treatment, as do pigmented lesions and the removal of tattoos. The pigment is
Micro-dermabrasion removes the top
broken down into minute particles and removed through the lymphatic system.
cells of the epidermis

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Full aftercare and support should be given as sunlight can be very damaging to a
skin following laser treatment. Full training and a competent certificate are required
for insurance, as laser work is specialised.

Collagen treatments
Collagen is a protein that is the principal ingredient of white fibrous connective tissue
found within tendons, skin, bone, cartilage and ligaments. Despite any claims made
by the manufacturers of collagen-containing products, it is said that the skin cannot
absorb artificial collagen.
However, one collagen treatment that is temporarily effective and growing in
popularity is collagen replacement therapy (CRT). This involves collagen being
injected directly into the dermis to improve the appearance of fine lines and
pockmarks. Collagen injections to the lips to create a ‘bee sting’ pout to the lip shape
are common, but can go wrong if the client has an allergic reaction to the injection,
leaving the lips very swollen and sore.
Avoid treating a client after a collagen treatment as there is a danger that massage
movements could move the implant to another area.

Botox® treatments
Botox® works by paralysing muscles located at the site where it is injected, thus
reducing lines and wrinkles in that area. It is often used to treat frown lines and
You and the skin

crow’s feet around the eyes. Once again, the effects are only temporary, and regular
treatments are required.
The long-term effects of this botulinum-based treatment are not yet known. A recent
report in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology suggests that people using Botox® to
defeat the signs of ageing may simply be developing more wrinkles in nearby areas,
as neighbouring muscles try to compensate for those that are paralysed.

Cosmetic surgery
Surgery is an invasive treatment and carries all the risks of any other medical
operation. It is, however, considered an affordable treatment by many, and it can be
very successful. Sagging contours and wrinkles can be removed by tightening the eye
area or chin or having a complete face-lift, and this will reduce the signs of ageing.
However, there is a danger of the skin looking too tight and not in keeping with the
rest of the body – many film stars may look good in pictures of their face alone, but
the neck and hands reflect their true age when a larger picture is taken. This can look
most odd.
Cosmetic surgery should only be considered after a great deal of research and
through a recognised medical referral. The newspapers often report that so-called
‘clinics’ cause a lot of pain and distress to ‘patients’ as they are not medically
qualified to carry out procedures for cosmetic surgery, or because the post-operation
care is so poor that secondary infection may occur.
In some cases, corrective surgery can be very successful and most beneficial,
especially if the physical problem causes psychological distress too. The correction of
a hare lip, reshaping of a broken nose or pinning back ears that protrude can give back
client confidence and improve a person’s self-image.

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 You and the skin

Stop the clock!

In conclusion, the ageing process is inevitable. Some treatments can suspend the
process, but they cannot stop it. Take time to explain to your clients a little about
the ageing process, and be honest about the limitations of any treatment they may
be considering as well as its benefits. Having integrity means being honest and
honouring your personal relationship with your clients. Rather than mislead or give
false information about ageing and related treatments, discuss the lifestyle changes
that will encourage clients to be active in preserving their quality of life: advise them
to give up smoking, eat a healthy diet, drink plenty of water, take regular exercise and
embark on a good skincare routine, including protection from the sun.

The skin and the sun

Coco Chanel introduced a tanned skin into high society in the
1930s when she was one of the first travellers to the south of
France in the summer months. It became a sign of wealth and
social standing if you could afford a tan as it meant you were rich
enough to travel abroad. Going back through history the reverse is
true: ladies and gentlemen of the ‘upper classes’ had very light
faces and used powder to emphasise their whiteness. Only manual
farm labourers had a tan, and this meant you had a job working

You and the skin

outside in the sun. Unfortunately, we now think of a healthy skin
as being a tanned one. This is, of course, not true. (Tanning is the
name of the process used to dry out a cow’s hide in the sunshine
to turn it into leather!)
Except for helping to relieve certain conditions like asthma, aching joints and Remember – a tanned skin is a
damaged skin
psoriasis, along with aiding vitamin D production, the sun’s health benefits are
primarily psychological. The truth is that too much sun can be positively harmful.
The immediate result of too much sun is severe sunburn, and many of us have
experienced the painful blisters, fever and swelling that come from too much sun too
fast. Another result of sun exposure is prematurely aged skin. The sun causes the
skin to thicken and gives it a leathery, coarse appearance. With enough time, the sun
weakens the skin’s elasticity by cross-linking the collagen fibres in the dermis. This
results in sagging and wrinkles on all sun-exposed areas.
The sun also causes dark pigmentation patches and scaly grey growths known as
keratoses, which are often pre-cancerous. Sunburn and prematurely aged skin are
not the worst results of constant exposure to the sun; skin cancer is. Almost all of
the 300,000 cases of this disease that develop annually are considered to be sun-
related. Some people are more at risk than others. Britain is fast catching up with
Australia in numbers of skin cancer patients – in fact the promotion of skin cancer
awareness in hotter countries is bringing down their skin cancer patient numbers as
ours are growing.
People with black skins are relatively safe because the darker skin provides good
protection against UV light. Those with light skin, notably redheads and blondes,
are at the greatest risk due to less melanin in the skin.

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Certain drugs, such as antibiotics, medicated soaps and creams, and even
barbiturates and birth control pills, can make the skin more susceptible
to damage.
All clients concerned with premature ageing should be advised on the dangers of
sun exposure, and a sunscreen or sun block should be recommended to them.
Those clients who are avid sun worshippers should be educated to understand the
relationship between the sun and skin cancer.
Once the UV light has caused cross-linking and thickening in the dermis and has
predisposed the skin to premature ageing, there is no reversal of the damage. Plastic
surgery techniques can help disguise the sagging by re-draping the skin, but this does
not compensate for the damage that has occurred. It is, therefore, the first topic that
must be discussed with the client who expresses concern about ageing. Advice on
sun protection should be given verbally and in a written fact sheet. Indeed, the only
cosmetic product that can legally be labelled ‘anti-ageing’ is a sunscreen or sun
block preparation.
Concern is growing in the medical world for ‘tanorexia’, where young girls are
becoming addicted to the use of sunbeds in tanning centres. Often, the use of these
machines is not monitored and the client pays for the time on the sunbed, so they
go several times a week to top up their tan. Unfortunately, this has resulted in a
large increase in the incidence of skin cancers in young people, where it would not be
You and the skin

expected under natural circumstances.

Sun preparations
While sun preparations are not included in the normal facial routine in a salon, lots of
clients need the right information for homecare advice and use of the correct products,
especially if going on holiday either in the UK or abroad.
Sun protection can come in the form of lotion, cream or milk, and some large
manufacturers have now designed a spray-on application of sun protection.
Sunscreens filter the harmful ultraviolet rays, UVA and UVB, for a period of time.
Most are water resistant and contain moisturisers to help nourish the skin. They
come in various strengths, measured by a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from
2–35. The higher the SPF number, the better the protection. The wearer can stay out
in the sun for a longer time depending on the number: for example, SPF 6 permits
sun exposure six times longer than with unprotected skin without burning; an SPF of
30 allows sun exposure 30 times longer. The choice of SPF depends upon the skin
type and the strength of the sun. The nearer the equator, the hotter the sun, so a
higher protection factor would be needed in, say, the Mediterranean than in the UK.
The sun’s rays are also reflected so there is a risk of getting sunburnt when sailing or
skiing, even when the temperature is low.
Sun blocks are total blocks and will screen out all the sun’s rays. They have become
essential in some countries, for example in Australia, where there is a high incidence
of skin cancer. Sun blocks are seen as coloured strips of cream that sit on the nose
and forehead – very popular with cricketers.

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 You and the skin

Skin products for different types of skin

See individual products and follow individual recommendations as products do vary.
As sun on the face accelerates the ageing process, clients should be advised to wear
a hat or cover the face liberally with the correct SPF cream.
Most manufacturers recommend the following:

Skin type Recommended sun preparation

Fair skin or redhead with fair skin burns 20–35 SPF or sun block for complete
easily after 30 minutes’ exposure protection

Sallow-skinned person who is fair will tan, 10–20 SPF

but feels sore after 30 minutes

Darker skins that tan easily but tend to get 10 –15 SPF
sore initially

Self-tanning creams
This is a very popular salon treatment for both face and body, and the safest way
Think about it
to get a tan. After exfoliation and moisturising, the tanning lotion is applied. It will
develop over several hours and last for several days. Most large cosmetic houses Self-tanning application will only be
make self-tans for the face, which are not as strong as the body self-tan. These are as good as the surface it goes onto
often in the form of an impregnated tissue, which just wipes over the facial area and – a bit like nail varnish! If the skin

You and the skin

leaves a residue which develops into a tan. There are also spray guns which deliver a is dry or rough, then the colour will
fine mist of the product all over the body, for a speedy application. come out patchy and darker in some
places.
The active ingredient is a chemical, dihydroxyacetone, which reacts with the keratin
in the skin to produce a golden colour through oxidation. This has become a very
popular salon treatment to offer clients. It looks very natural and lasts about a week,
depending upon the depth of the application.

Protect children and toddlers with high

Increase exposure to
SPF products and use T-shirts and
the sun gradually
hats to protect young skin

Ensure all exposed

Sun protection is skin is evenly
needed in the UK covered with
THE SUN
and abroad protective lotion

Apply sun protection

Avoid the sun between
30 minutes before
1 pm and 3 pm in the
and frequently during
heat of the day Always re-apply exposure to sun Safe sun advice
after swimming

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An increasingly popular treatment in the salon is to offer a complete body spray

application, where the client stands in an open cubicle with three sides, and tan is
literally sprayed all over the body. This application is carried out with a commercial
tanning gun, which pumps the liquid tan through a nozzle turning it into a mist.
The tan must be allowed to dry on the skin. A setting time is required, so the client
relaxes in a reclining chair and then showers the residue off. The tan is visible
immediately and develops into a deeper tan over the next 24 hours.

For your portfolio

When out shopping, pick up several samples of self-tanning preparations and try them
out at home. Remember to exfoliate first and then apply moisturiser before applying
the tan. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the tan to your legs.

Note the different textures and smells. Which one did you prefer? Which one gave the
most natural colour? (Do remember to scrub your palms if you did not wear gloves,
otherwise they will be tanned too!)
You and the skin

Self-tanning products

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 You and the skin

Check your knowledge

1 AHA stands for: 6 A Wood’s lamp gives off:

a) alpha hydrogen acids a) ultraviolet light
b) alpha hydro acids b) infrared light
c) alkaline help acids c) green light
d) alpha hydroxy acids. d) orange light.
2 Chloasma is easily recognised as: 7 The Fitzpatrick classification system measures:
a) white patches of skin a) blood flow in the skin
b) pink patches of skin b) tanning properties of skin types
c) yellow patches of skin c) the acid mantle of the skin
d) brown patches of skin. d) muscle tone of the skin.
3 Which of these is NOT a contra-indication to a treatment? 8 Intrinsic ageing of the skin means:
a) Leucoderma a) the internal body clock of cells
b) Cancer b) the external factor of pollution
c) Impetigo c) the effect of sunlight on the skin
d) Dermatitis d) the importance of diet as you age.
4 Acne vulgaris is caused by: 9 Blepharitis is an infection of the:
a) fungal infection a) mouth
b) bacterial infection b) ears

You and the skin

c) congenital c) eyes
d) viral infection. d) nose.
5 Eczema is a: 10 The function of the acid mantle is to:
a) fungal infection a) control blood flow to the skin
b) bacterial infection b) produce histamine
c) congenital c) control bacteria on the skin
d) viral infection. d) plump up collagen levels.

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 Related anatomy
and physiology

Unit GH8
What you will learn
Bones of the head, face, neck and shoulder girdle
Bones of the arm and leg
The skin – structure and functions
Structure of the nails
Muscles of the face, neck and shoulder area
Muscles of the arm and leg
Hair
Blood
The lymphatic system

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
As a beauty therapist you should have an understanding of the body and its basic
functions so that you can give the most effective treatments to your client. When you
can look at the body with knowledge and understanding you will be able to identify
any problems and treat them with suitable products, and make recommendations to
help your client.
The information in this section is compatible with the new standards for NVQ Level
2 Beauty Therapy. It can also be used in conjunction with all non-NVQ qualifications
and follows the Vocational Awards International framework for anatomy and
physiology.
The depth of knowledge for NVQ Level 2 is very defined; the requirements for this
section have been taken directly from the standards for each unit. Therefore no other
anatomy or physiology is required to complete these qualifications. The related
knowledge, to support anatomy links to a specific treatment given, is contained within
the book. The areas where the anatomy links into the individual units is shown in the
cross mapping which follows below.
A Try it out activity is included at the end of each topic. You may like to undertake this
either with your study group or independently.
Additional knowledge on the structure of a cell and the structure of the heart has
Related anatomy and physiology

been included to aid your understanding of anatomy, although this is not directly
required to fulfil the Awarding Body criteria.

As a beauty therapist you need an

understanding of basic bodily structures

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Cross-mapping: anatomy and physiology

Your guide to the anatomy required in each unit.

B4 Provide facial B6 Carry out B8 Provide make- B10 Enhance N2 Provide N3 Provide
skincare treatment waxing services up services appearance using manicure services pedicure services
skin camouflage
The structure and The structure and The structure and The structure and The bones of the The bones of the foot
function of the skin function of the skin function of the skin function of the skin hand and lower arm and lower leg
– epidermis, dermis, – epidermis, dermis, – epidermis, dermis,
subcutaneous layer, subcutaneous layer, subcutaneous layer, The importance The muscles of the The muscles of the
nerve endings and nerve endings and nerve endings and of recognising lower arm and hand foot and lower leg
appendages (includes appendages (includes appendages (includes different skin types
the hair follicle, the hair follicle, the hair follicle, and characteristics The blood circulation The blood
the hair shaft, the the hair shaft, the the hair shaft, the (Note: covered in You to the lower arm and circulation to the foot
sebaceous gland, sebaceous gland, sebaceous gland, and the skin, pages hand and lower leg
arrector pili muscle, arrector pili muscle, arrector pili muscle, 184–88)
sweat gland, blood sweat gland, blood sweat gland, blood The structure of the The structure of the
and lymph vessels) and lymph vessels) and lymph vessels) The photosensitivity nail unit (i.e. nail nail unit (i.e. nail
of skin and how it plate, nail bed, plate, nail bed,
The position and The structure of the The skin differs in different matrix, etc.) matrix, etc.)
action of the face, hair characteristics and skin groups (i.e.
neck and shoulder skin types of different the Fitzpatrick The process of nail The process of nail
muscles The basic principles of ethnic client groups Classification System) growth (i.e. nail growth (i.e. nail

Related anatomy and physiology

hair growth (anagen, (Note: covered in You (Note: covered in You formation, growth formation, growth
Bones of the head, catagen, telogen) and the skin, pages and the skin, pages rate, factors affecting rate, factors affecting
neck and shoulder The types of hair 189–94) 194–95) growth, the effects of growth, the effects of
girdle growth damage on growth, damage on growth,
How to recognise the The causes and nail thickness) nail thickness)
The position of the skin types listed in the appearance of skin
head, face, neck, range (Note: covered conditions likely to The structure and The structure and
chest and shoulder in You and the skin, need skin camouflage function of the skin function of the skin
girdle bones pages 190–95) (Note: covered in You (i.e. dermis, epidermis, (i.e. dermis, epidermis,
and the skin, pages subcutaneous layer, subcutaneous layer,
The composition and How to recognise 203–05) appendages) appendages)
function of blood and the following skin
lymph and its role in conditions: sensitive, The different natural The different natural
improving skin dehydrated, broken nail shapes you are nail shapes you are
and muscle condition capillaries, pustules, likely to come across likely to come across
papules, open during manicure during pedicure
The skin pores, dark circles, services (e.g. hook, services (e.g. hook,
characteristics and hyperpigmentation, spoon, fan) spoon, fan)
skin types of different hypopigmentation,
ethnic client groups sun damage, scarring, The skin
(Note: covered in You erythema (Note: characteristics and
and the skin, pages covered in You and skin types of different
189–94) the skin, pages ethnic client groups
195–97) (Note: covered in You
How the natural and the skin, pages
ageing process affects How environmental 189–94)
facial skin and muscle and lifestyle factors
tone (Note: covered affect the condition
in You and the skin, of the skin (Note:
pages 208–15) covered in You and
the skin, pages
178–81)

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Bones of the head, face, neck and

shoulder girdle
This section will teach you about the position of the bones of the head, face, neck,
Key terms shoulders and bones of the forearm, hand and lower leg and foot.
Skeleton – the bony framework The arrangement of bones that are joined together is known as a skeleton. The
of the body which supports and skeleton gives the body shape; it provides attachment for muscles and protects
protects the tissues and organs. delicate organs. For good facial work the therapist needs to identify the bones of the
head, neck, face and shoulders.

Bones that form the skull (cranium)

The skull, also known as the cranium, is a very hard structure that protects the brain.
Key terms Although it looks like one bone it is actually made up of 22 separate bones that
Sutures – ridged, fibrous joints of are fused together at ridged joints called sutures. The sutures are classed as fibrous
the skull. joints because they only allow movement in the head of babies for ease of the head
coming through the birth canal. Ten bones make up the skull and 12 form the face.
There are many openings in the skull to allow blood vessels and nerves to enter and
leave. The largest of these is at the base of the skull and this is called the foramen
magnum. This opening allows the spinal cord and blood vessels to pass to and from
Related anatomy and physiology

the brain. A baby’s skull has soft spots called the fontanelles. Over a period of about
Think about it 18 months the bones gradually join together. During this time, care should be taken
Skulls vary in size and shape. Your to protect the baby’s head.
genes can dictate many features of
your face shape, such as prominent
cheekbones. A bigger skull does not Frontal Parietal
necessarily mean a person is more
intelligent.
Sphenoid

Nasal

Lacrimal
Ethmoid

Occipital
Demonstrate the use of machines and Zygomatic
equipment
Maxilla

Temporal

Mandible

Bones of the skull

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Bone Position

Occipital bone (1) At the back of the skull

Parietal (2) Positioned at the back of the head and forms the roof of the skull

Frontal (1) Forms the front of the skull, forehead, and upper eye sockets

Temporal (2) At the side, around the ears

Sphenoid (1) At the base of the skull, wing shaped, forms the temple

Ethmoid (1) Positioned between the frontal and sphenoid bones and forms roof of the nasal cavities

Lacrimal (2) One in each eye orbit

These bones are fused together to form the shape of the skull, and their joins are known as sutures

The skull is attached to the body via the vertebral column. The vertebral column
enables the head to turn and tilt. The weight of the head is supported by the neck,
the shoulder girdle bones and muscles.

Key terms
Vertebral column – the spine or backbone which runs from the cranium (head) to
the coccyx. It keeps the body upright and supports it, as well as protecting the spinal
nerves and spinal cord.

Related anatomy and physiology

The bones of the face
Maxilla

Zygomatic

Palatine
Frontal bone Parietal
bone
Nasal
bone Sphenoid
bone
Sphenoid
Nasal Temporal Temporal
cavity bones

Zygomatic Vomer
bone

Turbinate
bones
Maxilla

Mandible

Occipital

Bones of the face Bones of the face from below

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Bone Position

1 Zygomatic bones (2) These form the cheek bones

2 Maxillae (2) These form the upper jaw, most of the side wall of the nose and the front part of the soft palate

3 Mandible (1) This is the lower jaw and is the only moving bone in the face, allowing movement of the mouth
for chewing and talking

4 Nasal (2) These form the bridge of the nose

5 Turbinate (2) The bones inside the nose

6 Vomer (1) This forms part of the nasal septum

7 Palatine (2) These form part of the side walls of the nose and the hard palate

The openings in the base of the skull provide spaces for the entrance and exit of
many blood vessels, nerves and other structures. Projections and slightly elevated
portions of the bones provide for the attachment of muscles. Some portions contain
delicate structures, such as the part of the temporal bone that encloses the middle
and internal sections of the ear. The air sinuses provide lightness and serve as
vibrating chambers for the voice.

Key terms Bones of the shoulder girdle, upper vertebra,

upper arm and chest
Related anatomy and physiology

Clavicle – the collar bone.

Scapula – the shoulder blade. The bones of the shoulder girdle allow the arms to move freely. The clavicle is more
commonly known as the collar bone, and you can feel it in the area where the collar
of a shirt or blouse would sit. The scapula is commonly referred to as the shoulder
blade. The scapula is only secured to the skeleton by muscle, so it is fairly free to
move about.

Bones Girdle

1 Clavicle (2) Across the front of the chest, going from each shoulder to the
breast bone

2 Scapula (2) At the back of the shoulder girdle, sitting on top of the rib cage

3 Sternum (1) This is often called the breast bone; it forms part of the rib cage

4 C
 ervical vertebra The vertabrae which form the neck; the first two are called the
(7) Atlas and Axis, and support and allow free movement of the head

5 Humerus (2) These bones form the top of each arm; they move in a groove in
the clavicle by a joint called a ball and socket

Try it out
Draw your arms back, and look in the mirror. Can you see your scapula? It may be
easier to identify this on a partner.

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Cervical
Clavicle vertebrae
Clavicle

Scapula
Sternum Scapula

Humerus

Vertebrae

Ribs
The bones of the shoulder

Related anatomy and physiology

Bones of the arm and leg
scaphoid lunate

triquetral
COLLECTIVELY pisiform
trapezium
KNOWN AS trapezoid
CARPALS capitate
Radius hamate

Ulna metacarpals

phalanges of thumb

Carpals

Metacarpals

phalanges
Phalanges

Bones of the forearm and hand Bones of the hand and wrist

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The lower arm is made up of two bones: the radius and the ulna. The ulna is the
Key terms
larger of the two bones.
Radius – bone on the outer side
The radius and ulna form a hinge with the humerus (the bone of the upper arm
of the forearm; smaller of the two
sometimes referred to as the funny bone). This hinge joint enables the arm to flex
bones in the lower arm.
and extend. The rotation of the hand is made by the radius being able to cross over
Ulna – bone on the inner side of the
the ulna. A ligament connects the two bones.
forearm; larger of the two bones in
the lower arm. The wrist is made up of eight individual bones in two rows. Collectively these bones
Humerus – bone of the upper arm; are known as carpals, although they each have individual names.
sometimes called the funny bone. The palm of the hand is made up of five bones called metacarpals, and the fingers
Ligament – strong bands of are made of three bones called phalanges. The thumb contains only two phalanges
fibrous, connective tissue binding bones.
bones together.
Carpals – bones that make up the
Try it out
wrist joint, consisting of hamate,
capitate, pisiform, triquetral, lunate, Have the palm of your right hand facing you. Now rotate your palm so it turns away
scaphoid, trapezium and trapezoid. from you. This rotation movement is known as pronation. Now rotate your hand so
your palm faces you again. This is called supination.
Metacarpals – bones that make up
the palm of the hand.
Phalanges – bones that make up
Think about it
the fingers.
Related anatomy and physiology

A simple way to remember which forearm bone is which: ulna contains the letter ‘l’
Pronation – rotation movement of
and this bone goes to your little finger.
the palm away from you.
Supination – rotation movement
of the palm to face you. Bones of the lower leg and foot
The bones that make up the lower leg are the tibia and fibula. The tibia is often
called the shinbone. This bone is the stoutest in the body and transmits body weight
directly to the ankle joint. The fibula forms part of the ankle joint.
The foot is constructed in a similar way to the hand. Seven bones, all with individual
names, make up the tarsals (like the wrist). Five metatarsals together support the
major arches of the foot.

Calcaneum

Talus Key terms

Tibia – shin bone; inner,
Fibula Tarsals
Cuboid thicker of the two bones in the
lower leg. Articulates with the
Outer cuneiform Navicular
Tibia femur, fibula and talus.
Middle cuneiform
Fibula – a long thin bone
Inner cuneiform
on the outer side of the leg;
Metatarsals smaller of the two bones in
the lower leg.
Tarsals – bones of the foot.
Metarsals – bones
Phalanges
supporting the major arches of
The tibia and fibula Bones of the foot the foot.

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 Related anatomy and physiology

The foot has four arches: two transverse (across the foot) and two longitudinal (from
Key terms
heel to toe). The function of these arches is to:
provide support for the body Transverse – running sideways,
that is across a bone or muscle from
act as shock absorbers
one side to the other.
aid posture. Longitudinal – running
lengthways, that is the length of a
bone or muscle from top to bottom.

Talus

Medial cuneiform Talus

Metatarsals Metatarsals
Transverse
arch

Calcaneum
Lateral longitudinal Medial longitudinal
arch The major arches of the foot
arch

Related anatomy and physiology

Like the fingers, the toes are made of phalanges. The big toes have two phalanges
each and the other toes have three.

The skin – structure and functions

Refer to You and the skin, pages 175–220 for further information on the skin.

The skin’s structure

Skin is a remarkable organ that is able to adapt and perform various functions. It can
mould to different shapes, stretch and harden, but can also respond to delicate touch,
feel pain, pressure, hot and cold, so it is regarded as an effective communicator.
Key terms
Skin makes up about 12 per cent of an adult’s body weight and consists of three
Epidermis – outer layer of the skin.
layers: the epidermis, dermis and the subcutaneous layers. You can think of these
layers like clothing. The epidermis is the outer skin, like a breathable waterproof jacket Dermis – layer of skin below the
epidermis.
– this is the skin we see. Our skin, or dermis, is under this and could be thought of as
a blouse or shirt with lots of pockets containing many different items. Underneath this Subcutaneous layer – the fatty
is a cushioned soft layer for protection, like a soft thermal vest. This bottom layer (the tissue found beneath the dermis
subcutaneous layer) contains fat which helps to insulate and keep in warmth. The which contains fat cells that act as
layers vary in thickness over different areas of the body. The thickest layers are over both insulation against heat being
friction and gripping areas, such as the palm of the hand and soles of the feet, and lost and for the protection of the
internal organs.
the thinnest are over the eyelids, which must be light and flexible.

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Think about it
Even though on average skin is just 2 mm thick, it receives about one eighth of the
blood supply for the whole body. In some areas, such as the soles of the feet, the skin
can be 6 mm thick while on the eyelids, it’s just 0.5 mm thick.

Blood Nerve Sweat Hair Sebaceous Horny layer

Hair
capillary endings pore follicle gland
sha� Clear layer
vessel
Hair root
Dermis Granular layer Epidermis
(true skin)
(outer skin)
Prickle cell layer
Basal cell layer

Papillary layer

Arrector pili muscle

(muscle to erect hair)

Reticular Subcutaneous
layer layer
Related anatomy and physiology

Lymph Nerve Sweat Dermal Hair Adipose tissue Blood vessels

vessels fibre gland papilla bulb (fat cells)

The structure of the skin

The epidermis
The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. It is made up of five layers.
1 Horny layer (Stratum corneum)
Key terms
2 Clear layer (Stratum lucidum)
Horny layer – top layer of skin.
3 Granular layer (Stratum granulosum)
Clear layer – layer of skin beneath
4 Prickle cell layer (Stratum spinosum)
the horny layer.
5 Basal cell layer (Stratum germativum)
Granular layer – layer of skin
between the clear and prickle cell Layers 1 to 3 – the horny, clear and granular layers – are dead and are constantly
layers. being shed. But the prickle cell and basal cell layers – layers 4 and 5 – are still
Prickle cell layer – layer of skin living because the cells contain a nucleus and can therefore reproduce. Skin renews
between the granular and basal itself every 28 days.
layers.
For assessment purposes you are only required to learn the English names for the
Basal cell layer – bottom layer epidermis. In some books you will find Latin names for the layers (shown in
of skin. brackets above).

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The layers of the epidermis need to be looked at in order of formation.

Key terms
The five layers of the epidermis, or our outer skin, begin at the basal cell or bottom
Bacteria – single-celled micro-
layer (5). This skin is constantly being reproduced, as the cells contain a nucleus or
organisms found everywhere; can be
seed. As the cells reproduce the layers get constantly pushed up into the next layer.
either pathogenic (capable of causing
Each of the layers has its own specific function. disease) or non-pathogenic (not
The prickle cell layer (4) is called this because the cells have spines, which prevent capable of causing disease).
bacteria entering the cells and moisture being lost. These cells also have a nucleus Keratin – a fibrous protein that
and so reproduce. forms in the body. It is found in the
skin, hair and nails.
The next layer is the granular layer (3). The prickle cells lose their spines and become
flatter. The nucleus dies and a protein is formed called keratin. This protein prevents Hair – a fine thread-like filament;
moisture loss and is found in skin, nails and hair. an appendage growing out from the
skin, found on all parts of the body
The next layer is the clear layer (2). This layer is for cushioning and protection and is except the palms, soles of the feet
found only on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. and lips.
The final layer is the horny layer (1), where the cells are dead and ready to be Desquamation – a natural process
shed. If you look at flakes of skin under a microscope they would resemble flakes of of shedding dead skin cells from the
almond. The name for the shedding of the skin is desquamation (refer to You and the top, horny layer of the epidermis.
skin, page 183). This process speeds up as we age. Melanin – pigment or colour
found in skin or hair that protects
Layer Function us from the sun. It determines our

Related anatomy and physiology

1 Horny layer Made up of many flattened dead skin cells which contain the tough colouring and is determined largely
keratin by hereditary influences and location
This is the final top layer of skin. in the world.
These cells are shed continuously to allow the new cells through. Melanocytes – pigment containing
cells, which are responsible for the
2 Clear layer 3 to 4 rows thick of dead flattened cells
synthesis of melanin, and provide
Only found on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet,
the different colours to the skin,
above the granular layer.
including yellow, black and brown
These cells act as protectors in areas of friction.
pigments in various strengths.
3 Granular layer 2 to 4 layers thick, the cells begin to die and flatten
The middle layer of the epidermis
Waste and other substances from the cell get squashed together and
harden.

4 P rickle cell 10 to 20 cells thick, with spines that connect with other cells.
layer Sits on top of the basal layer.
This layer of cells, called melanocytes, starts to harden and produce
keratin. Melanin is also produced here which determines our
colouring and helps protect against ultraviolet light.

5 B
 asal cell A single layer of column-shaped cells
layer The deepest layer of epidermis
Continuously produces new cells

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Horny layer (1)

Clear layer (2)

Granular layer (3)

Prickle cell layer (4)

Melanocytes
Related anatomy and physiology

The layers of the epidermis Basal cell layer (5)

You may be required to label this diagram for a written skin assessment.
Key terms
Hair follicle – threadlike growth of The dermis
the epidermis. The dermis or true skin contains many structures. It can be subdivided into two parts.
Regulation – control. 1 Papillary layer
Papillary layer – connected to 2 Reticular layer
the underside of the epidermis; a
The dermis contains the main components of the skin such as nerve endings (for
connective tissue that contains nerve
pain, pressure, hot and cold), the blood supply and the lymph vessels, hair follicles
endings and a network of blood and
and our sweat glands for temperature regulation.
lymphatic capillaries.
Reticular layer – situated below Papillary layer
the papillary layer; formed of tough, Undulating wavy tissue, rich in blood and lymph vessels and nerve endings.
dense, fibrous connective tissue Joins the dermis to the epidermis.
which contains collagen, elastic
Area of cell reproduction provides lots of nourishment and aids waste removal via
and reticular fibres for support and
lymph system.
elasticity within the skin.
Collagen – protein found in white, Reticular layer
fibrous connective tissue. In the skin Dense and fibrous, contains main components of dermis.
it provides strength and resilience.
Found beneath the papillary layer.
Elastin – allows the skin to stretch
Protects and repairs injured tissue, contains collagen, elastin and reticulin tissue.
easily, and then regain its original
shape.

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The subcutaneous tissue

For your portfolio
This is the fatty layer of the skin, underneath the dermis. Cells called lipocytes
produce lipids, which are the fat cells from which we form subcutaneous tissue. Try these activities and think about
your skin or that of your partner.
The job of the subcutaneous tissue is to:
1 Look in the mirror and see if you
protect the muscles, bones and internal organs from being damaged have any pigmentation marks, for
provide insulation against the cold and provide a source of energy if the body example freckles. Do they appear
should need it. more in the summer?
2 What causes your skin to change
Functions of the skin colour?
3 Feel the texture of your skin with
You can help yourself to remember the functions of the skin by the word ‘shapes’.
the side of your little finger, is it
smooth, oily, dry, or uneven, does
S = Sensitivity
it change on different areas?
There are five types of nerve ending within the skin to help identify pain, touch, heat,
4 Pull the skin up on the back of
cold and light pressure.
your hand – does it spring back
quickly, or does the skin take a
H = Heat regulation
while to return to its place?
The skin helps regulate the body’s temperature by sweating to cool the body down
when it overheats and shivering when it is cold. Shivering closes the pores. The tiny
hairs that cover the body stand on end to trap warm air next to the skin and therefore
prevent heat loss, when cold.

Related anatomy and physiology

A = Absorption
Absorption of ultraviolet (UV) rays, from the sun. The skin synthesises vitamin D when
exposed to UV light: modified cholesterol molecules in the skin are converted by the
UV to vitamin D. The body needs vitamin D for the formation of strong bones and
good eyesight. However, the skin has limited absorption properties. Only fat-soluble
substances, such as oxygen, carbon dioxide, fat-soluble vitamins and steroids, along
with small amounts of water are allowed through. Some creams, essential oils and
some medication may be absorbed through the skin.

P = Protection
Too much UV light may harm the skin, so the skin protects itself by producing a
pigment, seen as a tan, called melanin. Bacteria and germs are prevented from
entering the skin by a protective barrier called the acid mantle. This barrier also
helps protect against moisture loss. (Refer to You and the skin, page 182, for more
information on the acid mantle and the pH of the skin.)

E = Excretion
Waste products and toxins are eliminated from the body through the sweat glands.

S = Secretion
Sebum and sweat are secreted on to the skin’s surface. The sebum keeps the skin
lubricated and soft, and the sweat combines with the sebum to form the acid mantle.

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Key terms Structure Location Function

Sudoriferous glands – found in Sudoriferous glands Eccrine glands are found all Eccrine glands produce sweat,
the dermis; excrete waste products There are two types: over the body but dense on water and urea, so help to
through sweat and help to control 1 Eccrine glands the palms of the hands and regulate body temperature,
body temperature; classified as (sweat glands) soles of the feet. remove toxin accumulations
apocrine and eccrine. and help with the acid
2 Apocrine glands Apocrine glands are fewer
mantle.
Apocrine glands – sweat glands (post-puberty sweat in number and larger than
that occur on hairy parts of the body, glands) eccrine. Only found in hairy Apocrine glands are under
especially armpits and groin. They parts of the body, i.e. armpits, the control of the nervous
nipples, anal and genital sysyem and respond to
develop during puberty and produce
areas. sexual attraction, emotional
sweat that contains fatty materials. It is
demands and psychological
the activity of these glands that causes factors.
body odour due to bacteria breaking
down the organic compounds in the Hair follicle Found in the dermis but not Produces and contains the
sweat. A threadlike present on the soles of the hair during its life cycle.
outgrowth of the feet or the palms of the hands
Eccrine glands – sweat glands
epidermis or lips.
with ducts opening directly on to
the surface of the skin; linked to the Hair Grows in the follicles in the Believed to be connected
sympathetic nervous system, they help Not present on the dermis and is then seen to the production of body
to regulate body temperature and soles of the feet and growing out through the warmth. It is also a sexual
are found all over the body, but more the palms of the hand epidermis. characteristic.
or on the lips
abundantly on the soles of the feet,
Related anatomy and physiology

palms of the hands and forehead. Sebaceous glands In the dermis, adjacent to hair Produces sebum to lubricate
They produce sweat that is composed Not found where there follicles. the hair and the skin.
mainly of water and salts. are no follicles present Combines with sweat to form
Sebaceous glands – exocrine – see hair follicles the acid mantle. Helps to
waterproof the skin.
glands found all over the body, in the
dermis, apart from the soles of the Arrector pili muscle Attached to the hair follicle at Raises the hair follicle to close
feet and palms of the hands; secrete (also spelt erector) the base of the epidermis. the pore and so trap warmth
sebum and are situated adjacent to Muscle tissue in the body. Gives that goose
hair follicles. pimple look to the skin.
Arrector pili muscle – fan-shaped, Nerves Found on the dermis and Responds to pain, pressure,
smooth muscle in the dermis attached Sensory nerve endings subcutaneous tissue. heat, cold and touch. The
to the base of each hair that contracts nerves carry impulses to the
when the body surface is chilled brain for response by the
causing the hair to stand erect. body for protection.
Blood vessels – arteries, veins and Blood vessels Found in the dermis and Arteries carry nutrients
capillaries that carry blood to and from These consist of subcutaneous layer. and oxygen to the skin via
the heart and body tissues. arteries, veins and capillaries. Veins remove
Arteries – the largest blood vessels capillaries waste products. Capillaries
also help with heat
with thick muscular walls that carry
regulation.
blood away from the heart.
Capillaries – the smallest blood Lymph vessels Found in the dermis and The body’s secondary
vessel in the body; has thin walls and subcutaneous layer. circulation system, they collect
is located between an arteriole and germs, bacteria and waste
from the system that the
venule. A capillary is one cell thick,
blood supply cannot take. The
allowing the exchange of substances,
lymph is filtered and returned
such as oxygen, water and lipids, to the bloodstream.
between blood and body cells.
Location and function of structures found in the dermis and subcutaneous layer
Veins – blood vessels conveying blood
towards the heart.

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Additional knowledge Additional knowledge

Cells The specialised nerve endings
in your skin all have different
Golgi body Mitochondrion functions and are named after the
people who discovered them.

Nuclear membrane
• P acinian corpuscles and
Meissner’s endings react to
sudden pressure.
Nucleus • Krause’s bulbs, Merkel’s discs
and Ruffini’s corpuscles respond
Rough
to steady pressure.
endoplasmic
reticulum Smooth endoplasmic • Krause’s bulbs are sensitive to
reticulum cold.
• Ruffini’s corpuscles react to
temperature changes.

Think about it
There are 200,000 hot and cold
Cytoplasm Cell surface membrane
receptors, 500,000 touch and

Related anatomy and physiology

pressure receptors and approximately
3 million pain receptors in the skin.
Ribosomes
Your brain knows how hard you are
Basic cell structure being touched by the speed at which
the nerve signals arrive.

Cells are the basic building blocks of the body. There are about 200 different types
of cells. Cells that group together form tissue, and several tissues grouped together
form the organs of the body.
A cell is a parcel of complex chemicals that have a basic structure.
• Cell membrane – this is the outer wall of the cell. It consists of two layers of
Key terms
membrane with a thin fatty layer between. The membrane is slightly elastic and
Heinemann
porous to allow
Anatomy nutrients
and Physiology for in to feed the cell and waste products to be removed.
Therapists Porous – allowing substances to
Chapter 1 / Cells and Tissues pass in and out.
• Cytoplasm – this
Bliss 7/8pt is a semi-solid, jelly-like substance that is made of
approximately 70 per cent water.
• Nucleus – this is located in the middle of the cell. This is where the genetic
information about the cell is interpreted.
• Nucleolus – this the control centre of the cell. It provides the genetic information.
Cells are living structures; therefore they exhibit the properties of all living things. In
order for a cell to function it must have the following properties.
• Metabolisation – this is essential for life. Metabolism involves taking in and using
nourishment. The cell receives nourishment from the bloodstream, which passes
through the porous membrane walls. Metabolism refers to the basic working of the
body’s cells and concerns the continuous chemical changes that occur to sustain
life. Energy released is a by-product of the reactions within the cells.
• Respiration – this process allows oxygen and nutrients to pass into the cell and
waste products to pass out of the cell.

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Key terms • Sensitivity – this means that the cell is able to respond to a stimulus, which could
be either physical, chemical or thermal: for example, the contraction of a muscle
Contraction – tightening.
fibre when it is stimulated by a nerve impulse would cause movement.
Mitosis – a complicated method • Growth – cells have the ability to grow until they are mature enough to reproduce.
of cell division occurring in specialist
• Reproduction – when growth in a cell is complete, reproduction takes place. The
cells; process involves four stages:
cells of the human body reproduce by division, making identical copies. This
prophase, metaphase, anaphase and process is known as mitosis.
telophase.
• Excretion – during metabolism the cell produces waste products that it can no
Blood cells – known as corpuscles; longer use. If allowed to build up, these products will become harmful, so they are
they are of two types: red cells called passed out through the cell wall via the porous cell membrane to be excreted.
erythrocytes and white cells called • Movement – the cell needs to be able to move either fully or in part: for example,
leukocytes. white blood cells move freely so that they are able to move quickly to the site of
an infection.
Nerve cells are some of the biggest cells as they have tails that can be up to a
Think about it metre long and can be seen without the aid of a microscope. Unlike other cells in
Some facts about cells – red blood the body that are continually being replaced, nerve cells have a long life and are
cells are some of the smallest cells in rarely replaced.
the body; they have no nucleus and

Structure of the nails

are just 0.0075 mm across.

The nails are the hardened growth on the ends of the fingers and toes. Their cell
Related anatomy and physiology

formation is similar to that of the skin and hair follicle, based on the protein keratin.
The purpose of the nails is to protect the fingers and toes by providing a hardened
covering. The nails contribute to the daily functions of the fingers and toes, and in the
instance of finger nails many people use their nails as tools.

Free edge Hyponychium Perionychium Eponychium

(cuticle) (cuticle)
Nail plate

Nail fold Free edge

Nail plate Nail wall
Lunula
Nail groove

Nail bed

Eponychium Matrix
(cuticle)

Perionychium
(cuticle) Matrix Nail bed Hyponychium

Structure of the nail unit

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Structure Location Function

Matrix Situated in the dermis in an area of dense fibrous The reproductive part of the nail, where new cells
tissue called the mantle. are formed. It contains nerves, blood and lymph
vessels. The continual process of cell renewal is
called mitosis. If the matrix does not get enough
nutrients, the nail may not grow correctly.

Mantle An area of tissue that contains the matrix. Helps protect the matrix cells from damage.

Nail bed Underneath the nail plate. Continuation of the matrix, similar to ordinary
skin, with a good nerve supply and blood
vessels. The nail bed gives a healthy nail its pink
appearance.

Lunula (half moon) At the base of the nail, linked to the nail plate. Visible part of the matrix. It is crescent-shaped
Sometimes hidden by the cuticle. with translucent appearance.

Lateral nail fold An extension of the cuticle. To prevent bacteria entering the matrix.

Nail groove These are deep ridges like train tracks that run As the nail grows it runs along the grooves which
under the sides of the nail. help the nail to grow straight.

Nail plate Lies on top of the nail bed. The compressed keratinised cells produced by the
matrix form the nail. They lie in three layers and
are held together by moisture and fat.

Related anatomy and physiology

Nail wall Around the three sides of the visible nail plate. The framework of skin to support the nail plate.

*Cuticle The barrier that protects the matrix by preventing The horny layer of epidermis around the nail. It
bacteria entering the nail. is constantly discarding old cells and producing
new ones.

*Eponychium (pronounced The extension of the cuticle around the nail. To prevent bacteria entering.
ep-on-nik-ee-um)

*Perionychium Surrounds the entire nail border. A framework of skin to support the nail plate.
(pronounced peri-on-nik-ee-
um)

Hyponichium Underneath the nail plate where the free edge is A horny layer of the epidermis for protection.
(Pronounced hy-po-nik-ee-um) formed.

Free edge An extension of the nail plate which grows over For protection of the nerves at the fingertip.
and beyond the finger tip. It does not adhere to This is what we shape during a manicure. It is
the nail bed, so therefore it lacks the colour of the hardest part of the nail. The nail plate and
the nail plate. therefore the free edge are dead so there is no
pain when they are cut and shaped.
* These are often collectively referred to as the cuticle rather than by their individual names.
The cuticle is an extension of the horny layer of the epidermis.

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Try it out Key terms

1 Look at your hands and finger Matrix – root of the nail; produces cells that form the nail plate.
nails. Can you identify your lunula? Mantle – the area of tissue that contains the matrix.
Do your cuticles overgrow your
Nail bed – underneath the nail plate.
nail plate and is your free edge
growing over your finger tip? Lunula – often called the ‘half moon’ as that is what it looks like; found at the base of
the nail, often hidden by the cuticle.
2 How much does a healthy nail
grow each month and what should Lateral nail fold – the flap of skin which cushions the cuticle and covers the matrix.
your nails look like? Nail groove – the border of the nail bed which allows the nail plate to grow
3 Are your nails healthy? For further upwards.
information on the skin and nails, Nail plate – the tough protective coating of cells on top of the nail bed, which grows
refer to You and the skin, pages up, and we then paint with nail varnish!
175–219. Nail wall – around the nail plate along the three edges of skin.
Cuticle – a barrier around the nail plate to protect the matrix and prevent bacteria
from entering.
Eponychium – extension of cuticle around the nail to prevent bacteria from entering
under the cuticle.
Peronychium – surrounds the entire edge of the cuticle, to support the nail plate.
Hyponychium – under the free edge.
Free edge – the white part of the nail plate which grows up and is seen over the top
Related anatomy and physiology

of the finger when the palm is facing you.

Nail growth
The cells in the matrix reproduce to form the nail plate. As the cells multiply
Key terms they are gradually pushed up, before they die and harden. This process is called
Keratinisation – the process of keratinisation. For cells to reproduce, the matrix needs a good supply of oxygen and
cells hardening. nutrients.
The growth of the nail can be influenced by:
poor diet – through lack of vitamins and minerals
illness – provide medical professionals with indications of general health and
certain diseases
medication – some medication can enhance or slow down growth rates
age – cellular regeneration declines with age
time of year (more growth in summer)
injury to the matrix or nail bed
neglect – if nails are looked after, their growth rate and appearance can be
enhanced
For your portfolio
pregnancy – increases nail growth by up to 20 per cent
Nail growth does not follow a cycle.
poor circulation – affects the blood supply to the matrix, restricting cellular
It is a continuous process throughout
regeneration, which will affect growth.
life. Nails start to grow on a
foetus before the fourth month of If the cells in the matrix are damaged by illness or injury, the thickness of the nail
pregnancy, and the nail on the index plate can vary, showing itself as a furrow ridge or overgrowth of the nail plate.
finger grows the fastest.

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A healthy nail grows at an average of 1 mm per week for finger nails, and 0.5 mm for
Key terms
toe nails, so it takes approximately six months for the nail to grow from matrix to free
edge. Voluntary muscles – muscle
we can control with conscious
A healthy nail should have:
thought such as skeletal muscles for
supple unbroken cuticle a pink glow from beneath the nail bed movement.
no inflammation no ridges or spots Involuntary muscles – muscles
a natural sheen an unbroken free edge. we do not control with conscious
thought such as digestion and

Muscles of the face, neck and

respiration.
Extensor – straightens the muscle,

shoulder area or increases the angle between the

joint, e.g. when the hand touching
the shoulder then moves out so the
Muscles arm is in a straight line.
The body is made up of more than 600 voluntary muscles (that is muscles we can Flexor – shortens the muscle, or
control). They make up 40 per cent of a person’s body weight. The contraction (or decreases the angle between the
tightening) of these muscles causes body movement: it can be a large movement, for joint, e.g. when the hand comes up
bending or running, or a small movement which brings about a change in facial expression. towards the shoulder, the elbow joint
is made smaller.
Most muscles are arranged in pairs because, although muscles can shorten
themselves, they cannot make themselves longer, so a muscle known as a flexor

Related anatomy and physiology

works with a muscle called an extensor: the flexor shortens the muscles and the
extensor straightens the muscle out again, for example doing a bicep curl.
All practical units require knowledge of muscular structures and functions for
underpinning knowledge, so an understanding of the position and the action of these
muscles is vital for beauty therapists.

Facial muscles
Frontalis (1) Temporalis (6)

Corrugator (2)
Procerus (3)
Orbicularis
oculi (4)
Nasalis (5)
Quadratus labii
Zygomaticus (10) superiorus (11)

Masseter (7) Buccinator (8)

Risorius (9)

Mentalis (13) Orbicularis

oris (12)

Platysma (16) Triangularis (14)

Sternocleidomastiod (15)

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Forehead muscles

1 Frontalis 2 Corrugator 3 Procerus

• Upper part of the cranium • Inner corners of the eyebrows • Top of nose between eyebrows
• Scalp moves forward, raises • Draws eyebrows together – as in • Depresses the eyebrows,
eyebrow frowning forming wrinkles over the bridge
of the nose

Eye and nose muscles

Related anatomy and physiology

4 Orbicularis oculi 5 Nasalis

• Surround the eye • Over the front of the nose
• Closes eyes, blinking • Compresses nose, causing
wrinkles

Side of face muscles

6 Temporalis 7 Masseter
• Runs down side of face towards • Runs down and back to the angle
upper jaw of the jaw
• Aids chewing and closing mouth • Lifts the jaw and gives the teeth
strength for biting

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Cheek muscles

8 Buccinator 9 Risorius 10 Zygomaticus

• Forms most of the cheek and gives • In the lower cheek. It joins to the • Runs down the cheek towards the
it shape corner of the mouth corner of the mouth
• Puffs out cheeks when blowing, • Pulls back angles of the mouth – • Pulls the corner of the mouth
keeps food in mouth when chewing smiling and in grimace upwards and sideways

Mouth muscles

Related anatomy and physiology

11 Quadratus labii superiorus 12 Orbicularis oris 13 Mentalis
• Runs upward from the upper lip • Surrounds the lips and forms the • Forms the chin
• Lifts the upper lip and helps open mouth • Lifts the chin and moves the lower
the mouth • Closes mouth, pushes lips lips outwards
• The collective term is levators forward. Pulls the corner of the
labatis chin down

14 Triangularis 15a Depressor labii inferioris 15b Depressor anguli oris

• Corner of the lower lip, extends • Runs from the outer surface of the • Runs from the platysma to the
over the chin mandible to the lower lip corner of the mouth
• Pulls the corner of the chin down • Pulls lower lip downwards and • Pulls the corners of the mouth
laterally downwards, when sad or frowning

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Neck muscles

15 Sternocleidomastoid 16 Platysma
• Either side of the neck • Front of throat
• Pulls head down to shoulder, • Pulls down the lower jaw and
rotates head to side and pulls chin angles of the mouth
Related anatomy and physiology

onto chest

Upper body or trunk muscles

17 Trapezius 18 Pectoralis
• The upper back and sides of the • Front of chest, under the breast
neck • Pulls arms forwards and assists
• Rotation of shoulders, draws back rotation of the arm
the scapula bones, pulls head
back, assists in rotation of head

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Think about it
The occipitalis is linked to the
frontalis by a tendon called the
epicranial aponeurosis which covers
the skull like a tight swimming cap. A
tendon joins muscle to bone.

Think about it
It takes less effort to smile than
frown: 17 muscles are involved in
smiling while over 40 can be used in
a frown.

19 Deltoid 20 Occipitalis
• Caps the shoulder • At the back of the skull
• Raises arm from the side, pulls it • Helps with the movement of the
back and forward head

Muscles of the arm and leg

Related anatomy and physiology

Muscles of the forearm and hand Key terms
There are 12 muscles that allow us to move our forearms, hands and fingers, and Supinate – palm up.
they are referred to as flexors and extensors. These muscles allow us to supinate Pronate – palm down.
and pronate the hand and arm, and flex and extend the fingers, thumb and wrist.
Abduction – to take away.
The muscles allow the fingers to be spread apart (abduction) and to close together
(adduction). A band of tendons holds all these muscles together at the wrist. Adduction – to bring together.

ulnar
ulnar
flexor
flexor
longlong
flexor
flexor of the
of the
wristwrist
deepdeep
flexor
flexor
of of of thumb
of thumb radial
radial
flexor
flexor
fingers
fingers of the
of the
wristwrist
superficial
superficial
flexor
flexor
of the
of the
fingers
fingers

Flexors of the forearm

243
longlong
radial
radial
extensor
extensor
of wrist
of wrist

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ulnar
ulnar
extensor
extensor
 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

long radial extensor of wrist

long radial extensor of wrist

short radial extensor of wrist ulnar extensor

short radial extensor of wrist ulnar extensor
of wrist
abductor of thumb of wrist
abductor of thumb extensor of fingers
extensor of fingers
long extensor of thumb
long extensor of thumb

short extensor of thumb extensor of little finger

short extensor of thumb extensor of forefinger extensor of little finger
extensor of forefinger

Extensors of the forearm

Muscles of the lower leg and foot

Related anatomy and physiology

There are four main superficial muscles of the lower leg that you will be concerned
with when carrying out a leg massage. Many more muscles also work to move
the leg. Two of the main superficial muscles are at the back of the leg: the
gastrocnemius (often referred to as the calf muscle) and the soleus, which sits
slightly underneath the gastrocnemius. The third muscle of the lower leg is the
tibialis posterior and acts in conjunction with the tibialis anterior at the front of the
leg. They act to flex and extend the foot, and are often referred to as flexors and
extensor muscles, and work in harmony when we move.

Gastrocnemius Tibialis anterior

Peroneus longus
Extensor digitorum
longus
Soleus
Extensor hallucis
longus

Gastrocnemius and soleus muscles Tibialis anterior muscle

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Name of muscle Action of muscle Key terms

Gastrocnemius Plantar flexes the foot (points toes), pushes body forward when Plantar flex – the action of the
in motion gastrocnemius muscle that helps to
point the foot down.
Soleus Plantar flexes the foot, maintains standing position
Dorsi flex – the action of the
Tibialis anterior Dorsi flexes the foot (bends ankle) and inverts the foot (turns sole
tibialis anterior that makes the heel
inwards)
go down and the toes point up.

The muscles of the lower leg and foot are also held in place by a band of tendons at Achilles tendon – band of
the ankle – known as the Achilles tendon – like those of the wrist. A tendon is made tendons in the ankle.
up of white fibrous connective tissue which attaches muscle to bone.

Front view Posterior view

Related anatomy and physiology

long extensor of
lesser toes long flexor of
great toe
long extensor
of great toe long flexor of
lesser toes

Flexors and extensors of the foot

Hair
Humans are one of the few land mammals with almost bare skin, but we have a
coating of downy hair all over the body, and in certain places the hair grows thicker
and more densely. The average human head has approximately 120,000 hairs,
which grow about 3 mm per week.
Key terms
The colour of hair is dictated by the pigments melanin and carotene. Black, brown
Carotene – a pigment found in the
and blond hairs get their colour from melanin, while red or auburn gets its colour
granular layer of the epidermis.
from the pigment carotene.

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Types of hair found on the body

Hair is found all over the body except on the lips, palms of the hands and soles of
Key terms
the feet. Before birth the body is covered in a soft, downy hair called lanugo. This has
Lanugo – soft, downy hair covering mostly disappeared at birth.
most of the body before birth.
Different areas of the body have different types of hair growth. These can be divided
Vellus – soft, downy hair covering
into two types:
most of the body.
vellus
Terminal – strong hairs which
contain pigment; found on the scalp, terminal.
eyebrows, under the arms and pubic Vellus
areas.
This is soft, downy hair, covering most of the body. Normally without colour, it rarely
grows longer than about 2 centimetres in length. Regardless of ethnic origin, vellus
hair is usually straight due to the fact that the follicles are not very deep.

Terminal
Terminal hair grows from deep follicles which go down to the subcutaneous layer
of the skin. They are strong hairs, which contain pigment, and grow on the scalp,
eyebrows, under the arms and pubic areas.
Terminal hair can be curly, wavy or straight depending on ethnic origin, hereditary
factors and chemical hair treatments, such as perms. If a cross-section was taken of
Related anatomy and physiology

a terminal hair for Europeans, the hair would be oval in shape, and would tend to be
wavy. Asian hair would appear round in shape and tend to be straight, and African-
Caribbean hair would appear flattened and tend to be very curly.

Key terms Structure Function

Outer root sheath – the outer Connective tissue sheath Surrounds the hair follicle and sebaceous gland. It has a rich
lining of the hair shaft. blood and nerve supply to feed the hair.
Inner root sheath – the inner Outer root sheath Forms the hair follicle wall – made of basal cells.
lining of the hair shaft.
Inner root sheath The cells in the inner root sheath run in the opposite
Dermal papilla – a projection direction to the cells in the outer root sheath, acting like
of the papillary layer of the dermis Velcro™ to anchor the hair into the follicle. They grow
that contains blood vessels or nerve upwards with the hair. The outer root sheath stops where it
endings; the blood supply that meets the sebaceous gland.
provides nourishment to the hair
follicle. Dermal papilla This is the vital blood supply for the hair cells providing food
and oxygen.
Cortex – middle layer of tightly
packed, keratinised cells that contain Hair bulb The hair bulb is where the cells grow and divide by mitosis.
pigment.
Matrix The lowest part of the hair bulb where the cells grow.
Medulla – the middle of the hair
shaft.
Sebaceous gland Produces sebum which lubricates both the hair and skin.

Arrector pili muscle Attached to the hair to trap warm air next to the body when
we are cold.

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Cuticle Gives the hair its elasticity. Made of transparent scales that
interlock with each other like roof tiles. The cuticle protects
the cortex.

Cortex The middle layer of tightly packed keratinised cells that

contain the pigment. The cortex gives hair strength.

Medulla The middle of the hair consists of loosely connected

keratinised cells and tiny pockets of air. The air spaces allow
light to be reflected through them, giving the hair both
colour and sheen. Structure and function of hair

Medulla Cortex

Hair sha
Cuticle
5)

Related anatomy and physiology

Epidermis

Sebaceous gland

Connective
Arrector tissue sheath
pili muscle Nerve endings

Outer root sheath

Inner root sheath

Matrix

Dermal cells

Blood supply

Capillary loop

Dermal
papilla A vertical cross-section of hair in its follicle

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Key terms Hair growth

Anagen – a stage of growth in the A normal hair in the body is contained in a tube-shaped pocket called a follicle.
life of a hair: the growing phase. These follicles consist of an inner sheath and an outer sheath which are similar in
Catagen – a stage of growth in the structure to the cells of the epidermis.
life of a hair: the changing phase. The hair is made of hardened protein called keratin. The outside of the hair is a scaly
Telogen – a stage of growth in the layer called the cuticle. The hair grows from the bottom of its follicle by cell division,
life of a hair: the resting phase. being fed by a good blood supply from the dermal papilla.
Hair growth is a continuous cycle of events that is repeated as long as nourishment is
available, or until the hair follicle is damaged through illness or the ageing process.
Think about it Hair does become thinner in old age due to hormonal changes which occur within the
Here is an easy way to remember the body.
different stages of hair growth:
The life of a normal hair is divided into three stages of hair growth:
A – active (anagen)
anagen – the growing phase
C – change (catagen)
T – tired (telogen). catagen – the changing (transition) phase
telogen – the resting phase.

Anagen
In the anagen stage the hair receives its nourishment via the blood supply from the
dermal papilla. This enables the cells to reproduce. The cells move upwards and
Related anatomy and physiology

form the different structures of the hair shaft. Melanin cells are also produced and
this forms the hair colouring.

Catagen
This is the resting or transition stage of hair growth. During this stage the dermal
papilla breaks away and the lower end of the hair becomes loose from the base of
the follicle. The hair is still being fed from the follicle wall and is sometimes known
as a club-ended hair. The hair gradually becomes drier and continues to move up
to just below the sebaceous gland. Here it is very vulnerable and can easily be
brushed out.
Telogen
This is the final stage of hair growth and is the resting period. The follicle rests until
stimulated by hormones to return to the anagen phase. Telogen lasts for a few
weeks, with the club hair often being retained until new hair is produced – pushing
the club hair out.

Think about it
• We lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day!
• P eople with blond hair have more hairs per square centimetre than people who have
other hair colours, although no one knows why.
• One eyebrow contains approximately 900 individual hairs.

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Anagen

Anagen Catagen

Telogen

Related anatomy and physiology

The hair growth cycle

Blood
Blood is the transport system for the body to deliver and remove vital ingredients
needed by the cells in the body. It is pumped around the body by the heart. (You
may want to read the additional section about the structure of the heart to aid your
understanding.) Arteries, veins and capillaries are the vessels that carry the blood to
their destination. Key terms
Plasma – yellow, transparent fluid
Composition of the blood which makes up 55 per cent of
blood; the liquid part of blood in
Oxygenated blood flows from the heart through the arteries and deoxygenated blood which cells are suspended. It contains
flows back to the heart through the veins. Capillaries are very small vessels which vital proteins, including: fibrinogen
form a network to get into tiny cell spaces to allow delivery (of oxygenated blood) which helps with blood clotting;
and removal (of deoxygenated blood) to take place. globulins such as haemoglobin to
help transport oxygen; and serum
Blood is a slightly sticky fluid that is composed of:
albumin. It is essentially a transporter
55 per cent plasma for glucose, lipids, amino acids,
45 per cent blood cells. hormones, metabolic end products,
carbon dioxide and oxygen.

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Plasma is a yellow, transparent fluid made up of mostly water, with a small amount
Key terms
of protein present. There are three types of blood cells.
Platelets – type of blood cell. They 1 Red blood cells transport oxygen to the cells and take away carbon dioxide.
are irregularly shaped, colourless
2 White blood cells protect the body against invading bacteria and help form the
bodies present in blood to aid
clotting and reduce blood loss.
immune system.
3 Platelets play an important role in blood clotting.

Functions of the blood

The blood has three main functions in the body:
transport
regulation
protection.

Transport
Blood transports or carries:
oxygen from the lungs to the body cells
carbon dioxide from the cells to the lungs
nutrients from digestion to the cells
waste products from the cells to be excreted
Related anatomy and physiology

hormones sent from the endocrine gland to regulate the cells

medication, which can be passed into the cells.

Regulation
Blood regulates:
water content of cells
55% body heat.
Plasma
Protection
Blood protects against:
infection and disease
blood loss by clotting.

Blood circulation to the lower arm and hand,

and lower leg and foot
45%
Blood cells After picking up oxygen in the lungs, oxygenated blood is pumped from the heart via
the arteries, which work under pressure to supply all the extremities (the fingers and
toes). Once the blood has delivered food and oxygen to the cells, the veins return
waste matter and carbon dioxide. The veins do not have the same pressure as the
arteries, so it is the pressure of the muscles on the veins in the hands and feet which
aids the blood’s return. Veins have valves to prevent the blood flowing back, and they
The structure of blood
can become enlarged, as in varicose veins.

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 Related anatomy and physiology

All clients benefit from massage to the hands and feet: it stimulates blood flow and
enables oxygen and nutrients to get into the area more quickly, the blood warms the
tissues and muscles, so muscles relax and circulation is improved. When massaging,
remember that you must always work towards the heart, so that you work with the
natural flow of the blood, instead of against it.

Right common
carotid artery
Le common
Right subclavian carotid artery
artery
Le subclavian artery
Brachiocephalic
artery
Arch of aorta
Heart Right axillary artery
Thoracic aorta
Right brachical artery Abdominal aorta
Inferior
vena cava Right radial artery Le common
Aorta Right ulnar artery iliac artery
Le external
Right palmar iliac artery
arches

Related anatomy and physiology

Le internal
iliac artery

Le femoral artery

Le popliteal artery

Le anterior
tibial artery
Le posterior
tibial artery

The heart and blood vessels

The effects of massage on blood circulation

Key terms
Massage increases the amount of blood flow into the area, which is seen as an
erythema or reddening of the skin. It has a number of beneficial effects. Erythema – vasodilation of the
It speeds up the flow of blood through the veins and therefore helps with the blood capillaries, causing surface
reddening of the skin.
metabolic waste being carried away.
It increases the fresh blood to the area, bringing oxygen and nutrients to the cells
and so helping with cell growth and repair.
Warmth is created by the increase in blood flow, which is relaxing to the client.

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Because of the increase to the cells of oxygen and nutrients the skin will look and
Try it out
feel softer.
1 Test your pulse rate. First take your
Muscle efficiency and response is improved due to the increased oxygen and
pulse for 15 seconds and multiply
nutrients.
by 4. This tells you your pulse rate
at rest (multiplying by 4 gives you The removal of waste products gives a more toned appearance to the muscles
the rate per minute). Do this again and makes them more relaxed.
after jogging on the spot for two
minutes. Blood flow to the face and head
2 Has your skin developed any
Arteries of the head
reddening?
The blood is pumped to the head via the common carotid artery, which has two
3 What is this reddening called?
branches. The internal carotid artery passes through the temporal bone of the skull
behind the ear and takes blood to the brain. The external carotid artery remains
outside the skull and divides into facial, temporal and occipital arteries which supply
the skin and muscles of the face, side and back of the head.
Related anatomy and physiology

Internal
carotid artery

External
carotid artery

Common
carotid artery

Arteries of the head

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Veins of the head

Blood is collected up from the scalp capillaries by the facial, occipital and posterior
veins, which run alongside the similarly named arteries. These join to form an
external jugular vein behind and below the ear on both sides. Key terms
The external jugular veins go down the neck and enter the subclavian veins. An Subclavian veins and arteries –
internal jugular vein brings blood from the brain, goes down on either side of the neck these are the blood vessels beneath
and enters the subclavian vein. The subclavian veins carry on towards the heart and the clavicle.
eventually the blood enters the superior venae cavae.

Related anatomy and physiology

External
jugular vein

Internal
jugular vein

Veins of the head

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Key terms Additional knowledge

Cardiac – of the heart. The heart
Atrium – the top smaller chambers The heart is the size of a clenched fist. It has a lung each side of it and is protected
of the heart. by the rib cage. It is made of cardiac muscle – unlike normal muscle, cardiac
muscle continually contracts. These contractions occur approximately 70 times a
Ventricles – the bottom larger
minute and throughout the average life span contract roughly three billion times.
chambers of the heart.
The heart has four chambers: two smaller atrium at the top of the heart and two
Septum – division or separation.
larger ventricles at the bottom of the heart. The heart is divided into two sections
by a muscular wall called the septum.
To prevent blood flowing back into the other chambers, the heart contains four
Think about it valves – tricuspid, bicuspid or mitral, aortic and pulmonary. The bicuspid and
• Arteries carry oxygenated blood tricuspid valves help maintain the direction of the blood flow through the heart
away from the heart – except the by allowing blood to flow into the ventricles but prevent it from returning to the
pulmonary artery, which carries
atrium. The aortic and pulmonary valves are semi-lunar, that is divided into halves.
They control the blood flow out of the ventricles into the aorta and pulmonary
deoxygenated blood.
arteries respectively without any back flow into the ventricles.
• Veins carry deoxygenated blood to
the heart – except the pulmonary
Each of the four chambers of the heart ejects about 70 ml of blood with each beat.
vein, which carries oxygenated The left ventricle wall is thicker than the right because it pumps blood all round the
blood. body – the right ventricle only pumps blood as far as the lungs.
• Arteries always leave the heart and Deoxygenated blood is brought back to the heart by the veins and enters the heart
Related anatomy and physiology

veins always go to the heart. via two larger vessels – the superior and inferior vena cava – which flow into the
right atrium. The blood then passes into the larger right ventricle and is pushed into
the pulmonary artery, which takes the blood to the lungs where the exchange of
carbon dioxide and oxygen takes place.
Superior and inferior Lungs
vena cava

Pulmonary vein
Right atrium

Left atrium
Tricuspid valve

Mitral valve
Right ventricle

Left ventricle
Pulmonary valve

Aortic valve
Pulmonary artery

Aorta
Lungs

Rest of body

Path of deoxygenated blood Path of oxygenated blood

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Blood then re-enters the heart via the pulmonary vein into the left atrium. It passes
to the left ventricle and is then pushed into the aorta. From here the blood is
carried into the arteries of the body, and so the cycle continues.

Superior
vena cava

Aorta

Pulmonary artery

Pulmonary vein

Right atrium
Le atrium
Pulmonary valve
Aortic valve
Tricuspid valve
Mitral valve
Right ventricle Le ventricle

Related anatomy and physiology

Inferior vena cava

The lymphatic system

The lymphatic system is the body’s second circulation system for collecting waste
products. It carries away waste from the tissues that the blood cannot manage
to take. For example, you could think of it as a second bus that collects all the Key terms
passengers the first bus left behind.
Lymphatic system – a separate
The fluid that is left behind is known as lymph and is straw coloured. It is emptied back system of vessels that comes from
into the blood system via the subclavian vein, which is in the upper chest. The removal the blood stream to filter toxins and
of the lymph from around the body prevents the tissues from becoming clogged and waste by passing lymph fluid through
a series of glands.
swollen. If tissue fluid builds up, swelling occurs and this is called oedema. People
who are pregnant, ill or have very sedentary life styles can suffer from oedema. Gentle Lymph – fluid in the lymphatic
system derived from tissue fluids;
massage can aid the removal of the stagnant fluid. Lymph, like blood in veins, relies on
circulates around the lymphatic system
muscular movement to push it around the body, so the healthier and fitter a person, the
removing bacteria and certain proteins
better their lymphatic system is at dealing with waste. from the tissues.
The lymphatic system also plays an important role in protecting the body against Oedema – a build-up of fluid in the
infection. At various stages along the route that the lymph travels are glands or tissues causing the area to become
nodes; you could think of these as bus stops. It is here that the lymph is filtered of swollen.
bacteria and germs, and antibodies are produced to fight infection. When someone Antibodies – proteins produced by
is ill the doctor often feels the glands in the neck and looks in the mouth. This is to the body to fight an infection.

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find out if the glands are filtering the bacteria properly. If the glands are very swollen,
Key terms
antibiotics may be needed to help the lymph nodes and antibodies fight infection.
Lymph nodes – small structures
made of lymph tissue, located at
The main lymph nodes in the leg are the popliteal, at the back of the knee. The
intervals along the lymphatic system lymph then travels to the inguinal nodes in the groin. The supratrochlea nodes in the
particularly at the neck, under the arm crook of the arm lead to the auxillary node in the underarm. If any of the nodes are
and in the groin. They filter bacteria swollen, treatments can be painful.
and foreign particles from lymph fluid.
When the body is fighting infection
lymph nodes may become swollen
Composition of lymph
with activated lymphocytes. Lymph is made up of:
plasma toxins carbon dioxide
Think about it proteins fats urea
By the time your lymph glands waste products oxygen lymphocytes.
become swollen and sore, your body
is already fighting the infection and Function of the lymph system
filtering harmful bacteria, so this
would be a contra-indication to any The purpose of lymph is to collect germs, bacteria and waste in the system, then to
treatment. carry these to the lymph glands to be filtered and made harmless. The lymphatic
system uses different methods to do this.
The lymphatic system drains tissue fluid from the spaces between the cells.
It transports the tissue fluid and proteins back to the bloodstream via the
Related anatomy and physiology

subclavian vein.
It transports fats from the small intestine to the blood.
It produces lymphocytes which protect and defend the body against infection and
disease.

Benefits of treatments on the lymph system

As a therapist the treatments that you can perform can greatly assist the lymphatic
flow. This is because:
massage stimulates the flow of lymph, so removing the toxins and fluid from the
area faster
general swelling can be reduced
absorption of waste matter can be speeded up
skin will be smoother and softer because cell renewal is helped
muscles will be relaxed and work more efficiently.
Lymphatic flow to the head and neck:
Left side – lymph from this side of the head and neck passes through the
thoracic duct and empties into the left subclavian vein (the thoracic duct is
situated in the upper chest under the rib cage).
Right side – lymph from this side of the head and neck passes through the right
thoracic duct and empties into the right subclavian vein.

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 Related anatomy and physiology

Occipital
lymph
nodes

Mandibular
lymph nodes
Right
lymphatic duct
Parathyroid Cervical
lymph glands lymph nodes

Related anatomy and physiology

Right
subclavian vein

Auxiliary
lymph nodes
Le subclavian vein

Thoracic duct

Lymph nodes and vessels of the head and neck

Try it out
Look in your mouth – can you see
any lymph nodes? What are they
called? Remember not everyone
has these.

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Check your knowledge

Bones 7 How many muscles make a smile?

1 How many bones make up the skull? 8 What is the action and position of the deltoid muscle?
2 What is the name for the fibrous joints that join the 9 Is the triangularis a happy or sad muscle?
bones of the skull together? 10 What action does the masseter muscle have?
3 What is the clavical commonly called?
4 Where would you find the zygomatic bone? Hair
5 Name the bones of the shoulder girdle. 1 What are the two pigments that give hair colour?
6 What are the functions of the arches of the foot, and 2 Name the resting stage of hair growth.
how many are there? 3 Which hair type is found on a foetus?
7 Where would you find the tibia? 4 Which type of hair forms the eyebrows?
8 Where would you find carpals? 5 What protein is hair made of?
9 What is the function of a ligament? 6 What is the function of the matrix?
10 What is the upper part of the vertebral column called? 7 Where would you find the medulla?
8 How many connective tissue sheaths does a hair have?
Skin 9 What type of hair covers the body?
1 Name the five layers of the epidermis. 10 Where do humans not have hairs?
2 What is the function of the arrector pili muscle?
3 What is desquamation? Blood
4 What is a melanocyte? 1 What is the function of platelets?
5 What is the function of a sebaceous gland? 2 Blood is a sticky fluid composed of blood cells and
Related anatomy and physiology

6 Name the four senses that can be detected by the _____________?

sense receptors in the dermis. 3 What are the three main functions of blood?
7 What are sudoriferous glands? 4 What do arteries carry?
8 Name the hardened protein that is found in the skin? 5 What do veins carry?
9 In what layer of the epidermis do cells start to die? 6 When carrying out massage in which direction must
10 Name the two living layers in the epidermis. you go?
7 List five products that are transported in the blood.
Nails 8 Which bone does the internal carotid artery pass
1 What is the reproductive part of the nail called? through?
2 What is the function of the nail groove? 9 Which vein does the external jugular vein join?
3 What type of protein is the nail plate made of? 10 List three effects massage can have on the blood
4 How many layers is the nail plate made of? supply.
5 Where would you find the peronychium? Lymph
6 Is the nail living or dead? 1 What colour is lymph?
7 What is the function of the cuticle? 2 What important role does lymph play in protecting the
8 State the appearance of a healthy nail. body?
9 State four factors that can affect nail growth. 3 List three substances that you will find in lymph fluid.
10 What is the purpose of finger and toe nails? 4 State four benefits of massage on the lymphatic
system.
Muscles 5 Name the vein where lymph joins the blood supply.
1 Approximately how many voluntary muscles are 6 Name the lymph nodes in the mouth.
there? 7 The lymph system is often referred to as the body’s
2 Where would you find the gastrocnemius? _____________?
3 What is the action of the buccinator muscle? 8 Name the lymph node in the back of the knee.
4 Where would you find the platysma muscle? 9 Name the lymph node under the arm.
5 What does supinate mean? 10 If lymph builds up, it will cause swelling in the
6 State the action of the orbicularis oris. tissues. What is this called?

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 4
Section

Practical skills

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 Unit B4

Provide facial
skincare
treatment

What you will learn Unit GH8

4.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working
when improving and maintaining facial condition
4.2 Consult, plan and prepare for facials with clients
4.3 Improve and maintain skin condition
4.4 Provide aftercare advice

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Introduction
A facial is a lovely treatment to offer any client: it is both
extremely relaxing and very beneficial. In fact, for a professional
beauty therapist, a facial can be as relaxing to give as it is to
receive. The client is cocooned on the couch, wrapped warmly
and securely, with the luxury of knowing that expert hands are
cleansing, massaging and improving the skin’s condition. Many
clients fall asleep during a facial, as the relaxation is so deep.
A facial makes a perfect gift, and vouchers for the treatment can
be purchased in most salons. For many women a facial is the
height of luxury; for a beauty therapist it rates very highly on the
scale of favourite treatments to give. Many beauty therapists
decide to specialise only in facials and call themselves facialists.
The majority of their bookings will be for top-of-the-range facials
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

and little else – and with a celebrity endorsement and/or a write-

up in a woman’s magazine, the facialist can be booked up months
in advance!
A facial is both relaxing and beneficial
This unit is about improving and maintaining facial skin condition using a variety of
treatments. All of these treatments will be carried out on a variety of skin types, age
groups and conditions. It is also important to remember that you need to maintain
your health and safety, along with rigorous hygiene practices throughout.

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working when improving and
maintaining facial condition
In this outcome you will learn about:
• s etting up the work area to meet legal, hygiene and treatment requirements
• ensuring that environmental conditions are suitable for the client and the treatment
• ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and appearance meets accepted industry
and organisational requirements
• ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned using the correct methods
• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to facial treatments
• maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices throughout the treatment
• positioning equipment and materials for ease and safety of use
• ensuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue and the risk of injury while
working
• maintaining the client’s modesty and privacy at all times
• disposing of waste materials safely and correctly
• ensuring that the treatment is cost-effective and is carried out within a commercially
viable time
• leaving the work area in a condition suitable for further treatments
• ensuring the client’s records are up to date, accurate, easy to read and signed by the
client and practitioner.

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 Practical skills

Good general and Good

Clean tools
personal hygiene appearance
and equipment
Good record
keeping
SAFE AND EFFECTIVE
Disinfecting hands
METHODS OF
prior to treatment
WORKING DURING
Commercial
FACIALS
timings
Safe positioning
Safe disposal Client modesty of equipment
Cost-effectiveness of waste and privacy

Unit B4
For facials, as with all other beauty treatments, you must work within the legal,
Think about it
hygiene and treatment requirements as set out by your Awarding Body and to meet
industry standards. This will ensure the health and safety of the client and puts them No client is going to feel comfortable
in the centre of your focus – exactly where they should be. Preparation is the key in a dirty environment. She probably
to giving a relaxed and flowing treatment. All aspects of the treatment need to be won’t even stay if she feels it is
carefully prepared to enable you to give the client your full attention and a super- unhygienic.

Provide facial skincare treatment

pampering treatment.

Setting up the working area

Be fully prepared. This allows you to concentrate on your client and to give a
relaxed treatment without the distraction of having to leave the area to get products,
equipment or towels. A little preparation time should be built into each appointment
slot, so that each client feels special. It is also important to ensure that your working
area is kept clean to ensure good health and safety.
Good habits to stay tidy
Organise the layout of the trolley in an ordered fashion – have all the labels of
products facing you so you can easily see which is needed. Arrange the products
in order of use, and replace them back in their slot when you have finished
with them. They will always then be at hand, and you will always look tidy
and controlled. Have a space for everything and everything in its place. Have a
system where all necessary tools are in a jar or pot (even a plastic beaker is easy
to clean), the tissues and cotton wool in their own plastic bowl or tub.
Tidy as you go along – put used tissues and cotton wool into a small pedal bin
(lined with a bin liner) as you finish with them, rather than leaving them on the
trolley.
If you can, wash up mask brushes and bowls while the mask is setting on
the client’s face. This may not be possible if you do not have a sink near the
workstation, as you should not leave the client unattended.
Minimise waste by using only the amount of product required. This is not only
cost-effective, but it also means there is very little product left over to clear up.

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Always put lids back on to pots if decanting products. This avoids the possibility
of a spillage, which is time-consuming to clear up. It also stops alcohol-based
products from evaporating.
Mop up spills as they occur and do not allow them to endanger others.
If you follow these hints, you will not need a major tidying session at the end of your
treatment. Becoming tidy is a skill that comes with experience.

Risk assessment for facials

Facials have many potential hazards. Remember to complete a risk assessment to
minimise risks prior to the client coming in for the treatment.
Here is a risk assessment list for some aspects of facials – how many more points
could you add?

Risk assessment for facials • Reactions Any products may cause irritation, swelling,
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

redness of the skin, eye irritation or eczema. There may be

Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce
a reaction between products, e.g. if a client has recently
risks to health and safety, pages 71–104, for a complete
used a home hair colour and then uses her normal
discussion of risk assessment.
cleanser, one may trigger a reaction from the other.
Hazards: look for hazards that you would reasonably expect • Allergies The most common ones are to nuts in almond-
to result in significant harm under the conditions in your oil based products, cleansers and moisturisers and nickel,
workplace. Use the following examples as a guide. which is in some cotton wool as filaments, but clients can
• Environmental risks such as slipping/tripping (e.g. poorly develop a sudden sensitivity to any product that they may
maintained floors or stairs) or spillage of massage oil, have been using without problems for years.
creams, etc. • Noise Not necessarily a hazard unless the stereo is so loud
• Fire from flammable materials or products (e.g.the it affects the eardrums, but certainly a distraction from
magnifying lamp with no cap on it can be considered a fire relaxation if the noise disturbs.
risk if left by a window – the sun will come through the • Poor lighting May cause accidents through not seeing a
window, magnify the heat through the lamp and may set trailing lead or cable, and may cause the wrong products
the couch cover on fire). to be applied if the lighting is too low.
• Equipment The height of the couch, trolleys or stools • Low temperature Not necessarily a hazard but this
could cause repetitive strain injury or a sore back through would certainly make the client uncomfortable and cause
poor posture. shivering, which is hardly relaxing.

Many of the topics in this outcome are covered in the Professional basics, or in Unit
G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety.

Topic Professional basics or Unit G20

Hygiene requirements pages 39–45

Treatment requirements pages 21–23

Personal appearance pages 12–15

Protective clothing page 53

Environmental conditions pages 70–104

Client’s comfort and safety pages 45–47

Sanitising hands page 44

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 Practical skills

Disposing of waste materials safely and

correctly
Important Acts of Parliament to take into consideration are:
Environmental Protection Act, 1990
The Controlled Waste Regulations, 1992 (as amended)
Special Waste Regulations, 1996 (as amended).
All clinical waste must be kept apart from general waste and be disposed of in a
licensed incinerator or taken to a landfill site by a licensed company.
This includes:
waste which consists wholly or partly of animal or human tissue
blood or other body fluids

Unit B4
swabs or dressings
syringes or needles.
Refer back to Professional basics, ‘You, your client and the law’, pages 48–68, for
further information.
The only human tissue you may be required to dispose of as contaminated waste Key terms
during a facial treatment is the by-product of extraction (including milia extraction), or

Provide facial skincare treatment

Extraction – the act of drawing or
if you have made the client bleed during extraction. This human tissue needs special
pulling out of the body a foreign
treatment. The probe should also be treated as contaminated waste, and be put into
body, blackhead or something from
the sharps box for safe disposal by a registered firm. (Refer to Professional basics,
the eye.
page 58.)
Your legal and personal obligations are all covered in Professional basics, ‘You, your
client and the law’ (pages 48–68). The Health and Safety at Work Act (see pages
49–50) and Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety
(pages 70–104) are also important, as the client’s safety is a vital aspect of any
facial treatment.

Leaving the work area suitable for further

treatments
The client has left the salon, and you are basking in job satisfaction. Now it is time
to go back to your workstation and clear up. Look around you. How much mess have
you made? Could you have been tidier as you went along? Unless the client is the
last one of the day, you will not have the luxury of time to clean and tidy the area. If
your next client is due straight away, you could be in trouble if you have to spend a
long time tidying and preparing for your next treatment.

Ensuring the client’s records are up to date and

accurate
Refer to Professional basics (pages 29–31) for client record keeping. It is important,
both for the client and you, that you fill out the skin analysis sheet and any other
details accurately. This will avoid any health and safety problems and keep the

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

client safe, therefore safeguarding your own professional reputation. Do not return
the record card to be filed incomplete, thinking you can do it later – you will not
remember and vital information may not be recorded.
Be constructive when filling out the card: remain positive and helpful in what you
write and avoid making any negative comments or personal observations about the
client. After all, clients are entitled to see their own records under the Data Protection
Act. Also avoid leaving the card lying around for anyone to read. Once you have
completed the write-up, give it to the person who is responsible for filing.

Consult, plan and prepare for facials

with clients
In this outcome you will learn about:
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

• u sing consultation techniques in a polite and friendly • e nsuring your client’s clothing, hair and accessories are effectively
manner to determine the client’s treatment plan protected or removed
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the client • effectively cleansing the client’s skin prior to skin analysis
prior to carrying out the treatment • correctly performing a skin analysis on the client and accurately
• ensuring that informed and signed parental or guardian recording the skin type and skin condition
consent is obtained for minors prior to any treatment • taking the necessary action in response to any identified contra-
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout indications
the treatment for minors under the age of 16 • ensuring client advice is given without reference to a specific
• asking the client appropriate questions to identify if they medical condition and without causing undue alarm and concern
have any contra-indications to the treatment • recommending suitable treatments and products for the client’s
• accurately recording the client’s responses to questioning skin type and condition
• encouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points • agreeing the service and outcomes that are acceptable to the
• accurately establishing and recording the client’s current client and meet their needs
skincare routine • selecting suitable facial products and equipment for the client’s
• helping the client into a comfortable and relaxed position skin type and skin condition based on the results of the skin
for the treatment analysis.

Using consultation techniques to determine the

client’s treatment plan
A full consultation is vital before the treatment can begin. Refer to Professional
basics, pages 31–35, for further information on how to conduct a consultation.
Anatomy and physiology relating to the head and neck are covered in Related
anatomy and physiology, pages 239–43.
Key terms A good skin analysis takes time and practice. Eventually, you will be able to:
Skin type – a means of classifying identify the correct skin type and skin condition
the skin during skin analysis.
evaluate and decide which products are most suitable
Skin condition – the appearance,
evaluate and determine which treatments are most appropriate
texture and state of health of the skin
including classification of skin type clarify which home care routine to recommend
and any problems. recommend a personal skincare régime to retail.

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 Practical skills

Help reduce
Identify skin
Identify the client’s minor skin
sensitivity or
imperfections Improve the texture and
product allergies true skin type
appearance of the skin

Assess the muscle

tone and elasticity THE BENEFITS Identify the client’s
of the skin OF A FACIAL individual needs

Identify any Correct any faulty

Rebalance the
specific skin product use
skin’s sebum and
problems
moisture levels

Unit B4
A facial is a treatment that helps the client in a number of ways

Always use a consultation sheet to record all the client details during your analysis.
For your portfolio
It should be in three parts:

Provide facial skincare treatment

Many salons provide skin analysis
the client’s history as a free service prior to the facial.
Specialist facial therapists offer a one-
skin analysis
hour service, which is chargeable.
client treatments and retail recommendations. Do some research and find out
which large commercial companies
Think about it offer a stand-alone skin analysis and
Product houses or companies have their own facial diagnosis and consultation how much they charge. Compare
techniques. Therapists working for them are trained to use these techniques: for prices and find out what the process
example, one company may start with a back massage and diagnosis, then turn the involves. You may even decide to
client over and diagnose any facial problems; another company may include a hand have one done yourself as a hands-
and foot massage in the facial, which is carried out while the mask is on! So, once on investigation!
you are qualified be prepared to learn new techniques, but first you need to learn the
basics!
Key terms
When examining the face and neck it is important to consider the following: Massage – manual manipulation
Contra-indications – check the skin prior to the treatment for any condition present of the skin and muscles for a
therapeutic purpose using different
that would prevent treatment or any adaptation that may be necessary. For more
massage techniques
information on contra-indications see below, pages 274–75, and You and the
skin, pages 199–203.
Client’s skin type – identify the client’s skin type correctly. This is essential, both
to enable the therapist to give the right treatment, and to recommend the most
suitable products.
Minor skin problems – look for any problems that can be given specific treatment
for improvement.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Client work/life balance – take into account the client’s age, lifestyle, nutrition
and general health. These will be reflected in the colour and texture of the skin,
muscle tone in the face, elasticity, the number of wrinkles present and skin
discoloration. Stress, alcohol, dehydration, smoking and central heating are also
reflected in the skin’s condition. Record the client’s colouring and pigmentation,
as well as any other facial features: this will help with a make-up application and
when recommending other treatments such as eyebrow shaping.
Medication – if the client is taking regular medication, has been under a
consultant within the last year or has had surgery in the last nine months, this
should be noted. Many different types of drugs affect the skin and need to be
taken into account.
Hormone levels – the client’s age will give a good indication of her hormone
levels. Teenagers’ hormone levels may be erratic and unsettled causing acne
and breakouts, pregnancy will have an effect on the skin, and older women going
through the menopause may be lacking in the vital hormones that help the skin’s
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

collagen and elastin levels, which support underlying structures (refer to Related
anatomy and physiology, pages 229–36).

Key terms Facial examination techniques

There are four techniques to a facial examination:
Comedones – blackheads
questioning manual examination
visual reference to client records.

Questioning
Follow your consultation form when questioning the
client before their facial. This will establish the factors
that contribute to the skin’s condition. Gentle questioning
should help identify the client’s normal skincare routine
and products used as well as the client’s expectation of
the treatment – clients do need to be realistic. Encourage
the client to ask questions to clarify any points they do
not understand. It is important that the client understands
that a skin condition may take several treatments to clear.
A realistic treatment plan, with both time-scale and cost,
should be discussed prior to the treatment taking place.

Visual
Visual examination should be done under a strong light with
a magnifying glass to determine the client’s skin type and
condition. The skin should be clean and free of make-up. Any
areas of sensitivity, problem areas such as comedones or an
oily T-zone can be recorded on a facial record card.
Look at the colour of the skin, so that you can see
pigmentation levels and patches, sun damage, capillary
damage and the circulation of the skin. The efficiency of
the skin cells for respiration, elimination of waste products
Fill out the record card prior to treatment

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 Practical skills

and blood flow to the epidermis are all indicated by skin colour
(see You and the skin, page 196). Colour changes are also caused
by fluctuating hormone levels, exposure to chemicals, allergic
reactions, some skin conditions such as eczema, certain drugs
and extremes of temperature. It may also be something which is
inherited – a client with high colour and a tendency to blush or have
a flushed appearance may have just been given that in the gene
pool with their DNA! You will also be able to look at the skin and see
if it looks naturally oily or has a drier or irritated appearance.

Manual examination
This should be gentle, and will give some indication about the
elasticity of the skin, its warmth and texture. After a gentle pinch of
the skin in the main facial areas the skin should spring back to its
original shape. Poor elasticity of the fibres will mean that the skin

Unit B4
takes longer to recover from the pinch test and this could be due to
age. The warmth of the skin will indicate how good the circulation
is, and the texture will be felt as smooth, coarse or rough. Lumps
under the skin may need further investigation.
There are some excellent skin diagnosis devices available which
can be incorporated into the skin analysis. Until recently, the woods

Provide facial skincare treatment

lamp was the prime diagnostic equipment, but there are also skin
scanners and skin analysers which measure hydration levels, fat
content, melanin levels and erythema levels of the skin. These are
all tools for an experienced therapist once you have developed a
trained eye! (Refer to You and the skin, pages 195–97, for a full
explanation of woods lamp and skin scanners.) Visual examination using a magnification lamp

Referring to client records

If the client is a regular customer, always have the record card with you so that you
can view previous treatments, talk about how successful they are/were, if there were
any contra-actions, allergies, anything the client was particularly pleased with, or
anything she did not particularly like. Not only is this a good ice breaker if the client is
new to you, it is also important to continue the good work that the previous therapist
has done. For more information on record cards, refer to Professional basics, pages
29–31.

Additional knowledge
Some skin scanners are able to measure the density of the skin, the pH of the
skin and pigmentation levels. These are very good tools and valid for a clinical
examination of the skin. However, there is no substitute for touch, looking under
the magnification lamp and massaging the skin, to feel texture and depth. All
leading commercial companies agree that the scanners, even in the hands of
experts, will never replace the touch of an experienced therapist!

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Exposure to Ill health Stress levels Diet

sunlight
Sleep patterns
Work/life balance
Medication
FACTORS CONTRIBUTING
Water consumption
TO THE CONDIITON OF
Hormones THE SKIN
Alcohol intake

Previous
Smoking
skincare history Genes – what
Exercise levels Age of the client
you inherit
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Think about it Preparing the client for examination

Initial discussion with the client will take place while the client is still clothed and
You should never diagnose a contra-
sitting with you. The discussion will cover contra-indications, her expectations of
indication as you are not qualified to
do so. You can give advice without
the treatment and your treatment plan. Obviously, a full treatment plan cannot
referring to a specific medical be given until you have closely examined the skin, but you may not get that far
condition and always advise the client if the client has an infectious condition and the treatment cannot go any further.
to see their GP for a diagnosis. It is much better to terminate the treatment with the client at that point, rather
than place her on the couch and remove the make-up, if appropriate, only to find
that the treatment cannot go ahead as a contra-indication is present.

Think about it
Male grooming is big business and more men are booking facials. Ask male clients to
have a close shave prior to their appointment. This stops the tissues or cotton wool
dragging on the skin and the skin gets maximum benefit of the massage, mask and
products used.

Examining the face and neck

When examining the face and neck there are many points to consider:
A full picture of the skin can only be done in a good light, with the skin free of
make-up, which may mask the skin’s true condition. The client is usually laid
on the couch, wrapped up and then eye make-up and lipstick removal and a
full cleanse takes place. Only then can you look at the skin in detail, under a
magnifying lamp with the light on. However, that is an unnatural position for the
client to be in – the human body is usually upright (vertical) and you should look
at the client’s skin when they are standing or sitting too so that you can allow
gravity to show how the skin behaves naturally. This shows what muscle tone is
like and how the contours of the face dictate the face shape, how lined the skin is
and the firmness of the jaw line.
Do carry out the first part of the client’s history when you are sitting face to face
with the client. The eye contact you have gives the client the feeling that you
are interested in her, that you are listening and she can see exactly what you are
writing on her card.

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 Practical skills

Try not to be too judgemental when talking to your client about skincare and their
existing routine. They will not want to be made to feel like a naughty child who
has not used the correct products.
Skin conditions may not be what they at first appear. You may have to dig slightly
deeper than your initial skin-type judgement. There are lots of factors which
may lead you to make an incorrect diagnosis. Skincare products used wrongly
and which may not be appropriate for the skin type can mislead the client into
damaging the skin. For example, if strong products are used on an oily skin, it can
look very dry on the top of the epidermis, with lots of sebum still being produced
by the sebaceous glands. The client then adds more oil-based moisturiser as
she thinks her skin is dry, and the problem gets worse. A dry skin with a rich
moisturiser applied can appear to be greasy and redness can be caused by an
irritation or allergy to a food, product or chemicals. All of these mask the true
condition of the skin.

Unit B4
1 Couch and working area tidied and prepared:
• Couch prepared with blanket and towels
• Couch roll on headrest and foot area and on the floor for client to stand on

Provide facial skincare treatment

2 Trolley prepared with:
• products • sponges (if preferred)
• spatulas • jewellery bowl for client
• tissues • headband
• wet and dry cotton wool

3 Ensure client record card (and client record number if known) and pen are to hand

4 Make sure there are two chairs, a magnifying mirror and a bin with a bin liner

5 Ensure your nails are short and you are not wearing jewellery

6 Greet your client

7 Carry out a full consultation and contra-indication check

8 Position client on couch with headband on and jewellery off

9 Wash hands prior to treatment Preparation for full facial, including

massage

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Before beginning the examination, remember the following.

Wash your hands thoroughly.
Remove any make-up a client may be wearing, and cleanse, deep cleanse, tone
and pat dry the skin using a tissue.
Ideally, a male client will have had a clean shave prior to the facial examination
– otherwise the cotton wool may stick to the beard growth or stubble. Also the
state of the skin may be camouflaged behind a day’s growth of hair, and a true
picture of the skin’s condition may not be seen.
The texture of the skin and the muscle tone will be felt as the cleansing
movements are made.
The warmth of the skin will indicate how good the circulation is.
You need a pen and your record card so you can fill in all the client’s details.
Remember to include on the record card the client’s current skincare routine and
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

how successful it is (refer to You and the skin, page 30, for a sample record card).

Think about it
Obtain a signed, written consent form from the client prior to carrying out the
treatment. If the client is under the age of 16, a signed parental or guardian consent is
essential prior to treatment and a parent should be present.

Think about it
Facials make the skin look cleaner, refreshed and are relaxing for the client. However,
many long-term skin conditions will need more than one treatment before you see a
good result, so you must explain that to the client and manage her expectations of the
results after only one facial.

The client treatment plan

For further information, refer to Professional basics, pages 31–35. Revisiting these
pages will remind you of assessment techniques and questioning techniques,
along with treatment, services and product advice and, most importantly, client
expectations.
If the client is suitable for treatment, with no contra-indications, you can go ahead
and prepare the client for the beginning of the facial and the full skin analysis.
The treatment plan should be agreed with the client and recorded on the personal
record card, along with a suitable time frame for a course of treatments, a price and
budget structure (payment planning or perhaps a discount for payment in full) and
details of recommended treatments and products. Remember that if you are off sick,
another therapist will not know what you have agreed with your client if you have not
written it down fully on the record card.

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 Practical skills

My story
Practice makes perfect
Hi, my name is Safia. My parents originally came from Pakistan, but I was born in the UK. I have
been a qualified therapist for two years now, and the thing I found most difficult with facial
diagnosis and talking to older clients was my age. Being young I felt shy and I had no personal
knowledge of lines, wrinkles or pigmentation problems that older clients suffer from. Also, my
mother and grandmother have lovely skin and we don’t suffer from many problems – so I am
lucky with my genes. I felt at first that I wasn’t taken very seriously, and one client actually
said to me, ‘Well it’s all right for you, dear, you haven’t got a line or a blemish on your face!’
Even so, I persevered with my facial diagnoses and my regular client base began to build.
The more skin analyses I did, the better I felt about what I was doing – I wasn’t going to let
age be a hindrance to enjoying giving facials.
Then I began working for a commercial company that does face mapping, where the face

Unit B4
is divided up into zones and each section is analysed so as to get a clear picture of what’s
happening under the skin’s surface. I carried out as many as I could. Gradually, clients
began to say that my clear skin was a good advert for the salon and our treatments,
so it did slowly begin to feel as though I was being thought of as a genuine professional.
My advice to all beauty therapy students would be: keep practising – the more skin diagnoses and talking to people about
their skin that you do, the better your judgement will be and you will feel confident about recommending the correct

Provide facial skincare treatment

products. Clients will also have confidence in you – they will appreciate that you are well trained and that you know
what you are doing.

Agreeing the service and outcomes

This combines very well with Unit G18 Promote additional products or services to
clients, pages 105–22, so revisit this unit and remind yourself how to agree services
and treatment outcomes with the client. Above all, you want the client to be happy
with your recommendations – your client is a valued customer, who you want to keep
for a long time, and your professionalism and integrity will ensure this.
Your final treatment plan should be suitable for the client’s skin type and condition
and she must be happy with what you are planning to do.

Ensuring the client’s clothing, hair and

accessories are protected or removed
The client’s modesty and privacy must be preserved. In a closed cubicle ask the client
to remove all outdoor and top clothes and put on a gown.
The client should remove all jewellery, accessories, wig, if worn, and glasses. Clients
wearing contact lenses may prefer to remove them during the written consultation
stage if they have suitable storage for them. Some clients prefer to keep them in,
even though make-up will be removed and the eye area will be massaged. Be guided
by the client’s choice, as only the client will know which is most comfortable.
A headband or turban should be used to remove all hair from the face. Preparation of the client

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it For the Tights and half-slip may be kept on, but shoes should be removed. Bra
female client straps may get oily and should be dropped off the shoulder, or the bra
During a facial treatment the client
may be taken off altogether, depending on client preference. If the
should feel warm and cosy under
client chooses to push her straps down on to the top of her arms, there
either a blanket and towels, or a
is still a danger they will get massage medium on them, as you will be
quilt – often clients fall asleep when
going halfway down the upper arm with your movements. Above all,
the mask is on. However, check
you want the client to be comfortable and she will not be if she has a
with the client that they are not
bra clasp digging into her.
claustrophobic and are happy to be
cocooned. It will detract from the For the male Facial massage includes the upper back and shoulders, and these
treatment and add to their stress client therefore need to be free of clothing. The shirt or T-shirt of the male
if they feel trapped and hot and client should be removed, and his chest covered with towels and/or
bothered. blankets to prevent his upper body getting cold.

For all clients Assist the client on to the couch and remove the gown. Depending
upon the time of year, wrap the client in either a blanket with towels or
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

just towels, so that he or she is comfortable and warm. There is nothing

more distracting than clients feeling insecure or cold – they need to
unwind and feel relaxed.

Taking the necessary action in response to

identified contra-indications
Contra-indications to a facial treatment
Cuts and abrasion of the skin’s surface
Scar tissue less than six months old
Recent sunburn
Any undiagnosed lumps or swellings
Severe eye infections
Any bacterial, fungal or viral infections
Conjunctivitis
Bruising to the area
A known allergic reaction
Any loss of sensation in the face, dropped muscle contour or speech impediments
For a visual reminder of the various contra-indications, refer to You and the skin,
pages 36–37.

Other skin conditions

Although not commonly seen, you need to be aware of these skin conditions.

Pseudo folliculitis
Folliculitis is an inflammation of a follicle: usually referring to infection around the
hair follicle as in barae, which is an infection of the hair follicle of the beard. Pseudo
means false or a deceptive resemblance, or an illusion. So, pseudo folliculitis means
the follicle is inflamed, but there may not always be an infection present.

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 Practical skills

Keloids
A keloid is a scar which has overgrown and developed into a shiny, firm, usually
raised, benign (non-malignant), thickened mass of fibrous tissue. It is often seen at
the site of a burn, skin wound or surgical incision, and is mostly found on the trunk or
face. It is more common in pigmented skin.

Ingrowing hair
An ingrowing hair is one that grows abnormally under the skin having been covered
by an overgrowth of skin cells. There are several reasons for this: some people
are genetically predisposed towards them; waxing or tweezing often causes them
when the hair breaks at the weakest point just below the surface of the skin. If the
hair continues to grow under the skin, it can often been seen and may develop into
an infection. If not infected, the hair can be freed using a sterile microlance and an
antibacterial wipe.

Unit B4
Papule
A papule is a small, solid, round, rising of the skin – in other words, a pimple. It can
be quite large and sore.

Pustule
A pustule is a papule with an infection present as in acne, eczema, smallpox, chicken
pox or impetigo. Pus forms and will need to be treated with antibiotics. If the papule

Provide facial skincare treatment

becomes infected and red, then pus is present.

Taking action if a contra-indication is found

Treating a client with a known contra-indication has consequences. The client could
experience pain and discomfort if the treatment went ahead and the condition could
be made worse, or spread to other parts of the body. The therapist could be found
to be negligent, both by her insurance company and by her professional body, and
the expected support may not be forthcoming should the client decide to take legal
action. Any client with a suspected infection should be referred to her GP. But be
careful – it is not a therapist’s job role to give a medical diagnosis.
If no contra-indications are present, continue the skin analysis. Think about it
Never be persuaded to carry out
Recording the client’s current skincare routine a treatment on a client with any
contra-indications present. They
All the findings from your consultation and skin analysis should be recorded on the are asking you to compromise your
client’s personal chart. The style of the chart may vary from salon to salon, but the professional standing and there could
basic information recorded is the same (see Professional basics pages 30–31). be serious consequences. There is
Refer to You and the skin pages 184–97, to refresh your knowledge of skin types and both a risk of cross-infection and
of cross-contamination. If the client
how to recognise them.
then decides that you have caused
It is important that all information is recorded – the client may not be booked in further skin damage or made an
with the same therapist every treatment, and records of any allergies, reactions and existing condition worse, she could
favourite products will help keep the client safe and avoid duplication. sue you, your insurance may be
void, and you might be proven to be
negligent in a court of law. It really is
not worth risking your whole career
to keep a client happy. Just say no.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Cleansing the client’s skin prior to skin analysis

Step-by-step facial cleanse
1 Using damp cotton wool apply eye 2 Apply a small amount of cleanser, 3 Apply dots of cleanser over the entire
make-up remover, working around the eye, using damp cotton wool, and remove the face and warm some in the palms of your
over lid, underneath and over lashes. Work lipstick in small circular motions. hands. Working from the neck upwards, use
from inner to outer area. Remove with damp upward movements towards the jaw line.
cotton wool. Follow the same routine with
the other eye. Be careful to support the
eye area, and do not drag, or apply any
pressure.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

4 Work from the jaw line; use alternate 5 Using the index fingers, work into the 6 Travel over the bridge of the nose, on
hand movements to cover the entire cheek nose, with small circular motions, without to the forehead working out towards the
area. blocking the nostrils in! Use light pressure temple areas. Using index fingers, apply a
only. little pressure to the temples.

7 Sweep back down to the chin, working 8 Remove cleanser, following the same 9 Blot the face with the tissue folded in
over the jaw line with alternate hand routine direction as for the application of a triangle. Pat gently with the hand, turn
movements, to finish the cleanse routine. cleanser, with tissues, damp cotton wool or tissue over and repeat on the other side of
sponges. the face.

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 Practical skills

How did you do?

For your portfolio
You can check your facial cleansing techniques quite easily. To ensure that the eyes
are grease free, go back to the eyelashes and run a dry cotton bud along the length Most large product houses (e.g.
of the lash. If the cotton bud is dirty, you will know you have not cleaned thoroughly Dermalogica, Decleor and Clarins)
enough. produce their own skin analysis and
record cards. Investigate two of them
You can repeat the exercise for the skin by running a dry cotton bud along the cheek and see how they differ from the
bones. one you use at college – which one is
Do not be disappointed if you haven’t got it right the first time. Your technique will best and why? Should you devise one
improve with practice. of your own?

Performing a skin analysis

Refer to You and the skin for information on skin analysis (page 195), how to
identify skin types (pages 184–86), skin conditions (pages 186–88) and any contra-

Unit B4
indications (pages 199–203).

Client’s skin type (oily,

Client’s general skin condition
Dehydration of the skin dry, combination)
(mature, sensitive, dehydrated)

Provide facial skincare treatment

Any specific problems WHAT YOU MUST DETERMINE General health
(comedones) DURING A SKIN ANALYSIS of the client

Skin’s support structure Circulation to the skin

Skin texture

Selecting suitable treatments, products and

equipment for the client’s skin type and
condition
Before you can decide on any treatment plan or recommend suitable products, you
have to know the treatments and products thoroughly. You should have experience of
the treatments yourself, so you can talk about the sensations as well as the effects.
You need to have a full knowledge of products and treatments before you go on
to facial massage techniques. This is so you can decide upon oil or cream, which
massage medium and movements are most suitable for the skin type. You will need
to refer back regularly to the planning section as you work through the massage
techniques. Key terms
Facial products Facial products – therapeutic beauty
treatments using manual techniques
To improve the facial skin condition, there are many facial products available on the
and a variety of cleansers, toners,
market that can be used to good effect within the facial treatment:
moisturisers and masks designed to
eye make-up remover cleansers improve all skin conditions.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

toners masks
moisturisers specialist skin preparations
For your portfolio exfoliants massage mediums – usually oil or cream.
Do some research to discover
The cosmetic and skincare preparation market is huge. The range of manufacturers
the latest trends in techniques.
producing good-quality products both for salon use and for retailing is ever-growing.
Today’s discerning skincare and
Your salon or teaching establishment may have their own particular favourite which,
massage clients are often quite
from experience, they prefer.
knowledgeable and expect the latest
massage techniques and anti-ageing
preparations. The eastern-influenced
Think about it
Ayurveda treatments are also very Skincare products must, by law, display their ingredients on the outside of the package,
popular and skincare companies are with the ingredient with the highest percentage of content appearing first. Check for
trying to match the trends. Many products which may prove to be allergic to your client. There may also be a rabbit sign
clients will be interested in Fairtrade which means the product has not been tested on animals – but be careful, as although
and organic products, so research the the finished product might not have been tested on animals, individual ingredients
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

best ones to offer. might have been. This may be important to your client.

Reasons for skin damage Signs or symptoms

Ultraviolet radiation – excessive The skin ages prematurely because of free radicals (highly reactive chemicals that attack
exposure to the sun or artificial molecules by capturing electrons and thus changing chemical structure) causing breakdown of
sunlight (sunbeds) collagen and elastin that supports the skin
Uneven pigmentation – either brown spots (hyperpigmentation) or loss of pigmentation
(hypopigmentation)
Blood and lymphatic flow to the skin cells may be impaired due to loss of structural support of
the connective tissue
Cellular reproduction is slowed down through damage to the DNA in each cell
Loss of strength and resilience in the skin
Skin looks lined and wrinkles appear prematurely
Skin feels thick and may be dry to the touch

Insufficient fluid intake Poor blood flow and sluggish lymph drainage to the skin resulting in lack of oxygen to the skin
cells and reduced removal of water products
Impaired epidermis enzyme activity resulting in loss of strength in the skin’s fibres

A fat-free diet and/or general poor Lack of essential fatty acids in the diet weakens the acid mantle resulting in slow healing and
nutrition poor nerve reactions to stimulus
Impaired defence against disease and infection
Poor cell division for healing and a higher likelihood of scar tissue forming because of lack of
vitamins
Hyperpigmentation
Vascular conditions forming and developing earlier such as spider naevus or couperose
conditions
Reactive skin conditions more likely, e.g. acne rosacea

Excessive lines and wrinkles from Contamination of skin, clogged and blocked pores, irritations occur and a tendency to
alcohol intake and smoking comedones. Skin is more prone to allergic reactions. Lack of oxygen makes the skin yellow
with sallow tones often with nicotine residue left on the skin

Pollution from chemicals, traffic and Leads to dehydration and overactivity of the sebaceous glands causing congestion problems
thinning of the protective ozone layer

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 Practical skills

Reasons for skin damage Signs or symptoms

Heat and steam Overstretches the skin, causing damage such as permanent open pores

Incorrect use of skincare products Inappropriate products can cause comedones to form or skin becomes oversensitive. Using
products with a high alcohol content will dry out the surface but with sebum coming through
from the sebaceous glands, so greasy skin has dry patches
The acid mantle may be disturbed as it trys to rectify the damage caused by incorrect skincare

How to recognise skin damage

Think about it
In a salon you will need to have all equipment to hand while talking through the client’s needs. You will choose
the equipment you need according to the results of your skin analysis. So, while you may think you do not need
equipment information at this stage in your training (as you have yet to learn a facial cleanse routine), you will
need the information to make an informed decision at the consultation stage in a proper client situation.

Unit B4
For your portfolio
All beauty therapists need to use a variety of different products until they find their own personal preference.
You should attend the various trade shows and exhibitions to experiment and try the vast range available. Go
to your nearest large perfumery and approach the various cosmetic houses for free samples of products, until
you find one you most like. Try at least three each of cleansers, toners and moisturisers. Collect price lists and

Provide facial skincare treatment

advertising leaflets for your portfolio.

Procedure Action on the skin Products available

Pre-cleanse – am and pm Part of a double cleanse – mixed with Emulsifying cleansing oil
water this liquefies sebum on the skin and Facial washes
helps dissolve make-up making the second
cleanse more effective and deep

Cleanse – am and pm Removes dirt, sweat, sebum and make-up Cleansing creams, lotions and milks, facial
from the skin’s surface and freshens the wash-off bars, gels
skin after sleep Water-soluble creams with muslin cloths to
remove

Tone – am and pm Tightens the skin, stimulates the circulation Toning lotion astringent, skin tonic bracers and
and eliminates any trace of remaining fresheners
cleanser from the skin

Exfoliate – once a week (some Sloughs off the dead cells from the top Cleansing grains that form a paste when mixed
product houses produce a mild layer of the epidermis to improve texture with water, ready-mixed granular paste, fruit
exfoliant which can be used daily) and colour while stimulating circulation acid peels

Day cream – am A protective film to keep the skin soft and Moisturiser creams or milks and lotions
supple – it restores the oils to the skin after
toning, helping to keep the outer layers
hydrated – also forms a seal and a good
surface for make-up

Night cream – pm An absorbent, intensive, rich cream to Rich moisturisers, usually in cream form
restore the skin’s well-being without leaving
the skin feeling oily

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Procedure Action on the skin Products available

Face mask – once a week Deep cleanses, soothes and balances the Clay masks, peel-off masks, thermal masks, fruit
skin masks, biological masks

Eye make-up remover – pm A very gentle eye make-up remover, finer Lotions and creams, wash-off gels
than a cleanser for the delicate eye area

Eye balm A delicate balm for upper and lower lid Moisturising lightweight creams or lotions
area when needed – soothing, refreshing,
reduces puffiness

A good skincare routine

Pre-cleanser wash/emulsifier
Key ingredients
Oils – olive, apricot kernel and nut oils
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Vitamin E
Caprylic/capric triglyceride emulsifier
What they do
Olive oil acts as a rich emollient to smooth and soften.
Vitamin E is a rich, antioxidant vitamin to soothe.
Capric triglyceride is an emulsifier which releases bonds into the skin when mixed
with water.
Summary of action
Liquefies sebum deposits from the skin’s surface.
Forms part of a double cleanse for a clean skin.

Pre-cleansers help to dissolve make-up

Dissolves make-up.
Removes grime and pollution without affecting the acid mantle.
Helps smooth and nourish skin.
Method of use
Mix with water in the palms of the hands and spread evenly over the face and
neck, avoiding the eye areas.
Lather up and massage in, using small circular motions, then rinse off with wet
sponges and warm water.

Cleansing creams
Key ingredients
An emulsion of oils, usually mineral oil or olive oil
Waxes, usually beeswax or paraffin
Water and water-soluble ingredients
Emulsifiers
Fragrance
Cleansers leave skin smooth and
supple Preservatives

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 Practical skills

What they do
A mineral oil will dissolve grease and oil-based products on the skin,
i.e. make-up.
Waxes provide a creamy firm texture to the product.
The water content cools the skin and provides slip to allow easier spreading.
Emulsifiers prevent the ingredients separating, i.e. oil and water.
Fragrance makes the cream more appealing.
Preservatives provide the product with a good shelf life and prevent deterioration.
Summary of action
A deep efficient cleansing action, removes even heavy make-up.
Leaves skin smooth and supple.
Ideal for dry or normal skin types; too rich for an oily skin.

Unit B4
Method of use
Decant a small amount onto a spatula, close lid, spread from spatula
onto fingertips and massage over face and neck area using upward circular
movements.
Remove with tissues or damp cotton wool.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Cleansing milks
Key ingredients
An emulsion of oils, usually mineral oil
A smaller proportion of waxes than in a cleansing cream
A higher proportion of water and water-soluble ingredients than creams
Detergent
Emulsifiers
Fragrance
Preservatives
What they do
Detergent will act as a surface-active agent, which helps emulsify and create
foaming action.
For other ingredients, see above.
Summary of action
A light cleansing lotion, which is easier to remove than a cleansing cream.
Some cleansing milks can be worked into lather with water to wash off the skin.
Ideal for most skin types except the very dry.
Preferred by people who like a lighter feel to their cleanser.
Also ideal for younger or greasier than normal skins.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Method of use
Either apply directly on to the skin on damp cotton wool pads stroking in an
upward motion, or apply with the fingertips in small circular movements.
Remove with tissues or damp cotton wool.

Cleansing lotions
Key ingredients
Detergent solution in water Preservatives
Emulsifiers Anti-bacterial ingredients
Fragrance
What they do
Anti-bacterial ingredients help a greasy or problem skin.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

For other ingredients, see above.

Summary of action
A light cleansing lotion, which can be applied on cotton wool pads.
Ideal for most young skins, especially problem or blemished skins.
Method of use
Apply directly on to the skin on damp cotton wool pads, stroking in an upward
motion.

Facial washes and gels

Key ingredients
A mixture of cleansing and wetting agents (often derived from palm oil)
Water and water-soluble ingredients
Fragrance and foaming agents
Preservatives
Conditioners and colour
What they do
Cleansing agents will absorb the oil particles of dirt.
Conditioners will match and balance the natural pH of skin.
Colour and fragrance will give appeal: for example, tea-tree may be added to
Encourage clients who like to wash give an anti-bacterial, healing property to a wash that is enhanced with a colour
their face to use a cleansing gel rather additive.
than soap and water
For other ingredients, see above.
Summary of action
Use a small amount on a moist skin, massage lightly over face and neck, and
rinse off with water.
Foaming properties will vary depending on hardness or softness of water.
This method of cleansing can be used with a facial soft bristle brush for added
stimulation.

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 Practical skills

This is ideal for use with a brush cleanser unit (a small motor rotates the
brush) and can be applied to the chest and back. This makes a very good salon
treatment for a congested skin, and is very popular with male clients who suffer
with problem skin.
Some gels can also be used as shaving foam, cleansing at the same time. Check
individual manufacturer’s instructions for use – there are many preparations that
can be bought over the counter.
Method of use
Apply directly onto moist skin in circular motions, avoiding contact with the eyes.
Rinse off.

Toners and skin fresheners

Key ingredients

Unit B4
Alcohol, usually ethanol
Astringents, such as witch hazel
Antiseptic, such as hexachlorophene
Humectants, such as glycerine
Additives, such as cucumber, althea extract (from plants)
Preservatives and perfume

Provide facial skincare treatment

What they do
The alcohol removes traces of grease on the skin and helps with the drying
action.
The water content cools the skin and dilutes the alcohol content.
Fragrance makes the toner more attractive and hides the alcohol smell!
Antiseptic properties help heal a congested skin.
Toners and skin fresheners cool and
An astringent tightens the skin and makes pores appear smaller. refresh the skin
Additives such as cucumber and plant extracts soothe and soften skin.
Humectants attract water and help rehydrate the skin. Think about it
Colour and fragrance give appeal: for example, cucumber may be added to give Skin toners contain 20–60 per cent
a soothing property to the toner and it may be enhanced with a colour additive – alcohol.
blue or green are associated with cooling and calming properties. Skin fresheners contain up to 20 per
cent alcohol.
Summary of action
Some gentle toners for use on dry
Toners cool and refresh the skin, and are available in differing strengths depending or sensitive skins do not contain any
upon skin type. alcohol.
Strong toners for oily skins contain more alcohol, which dissolves grease; the Skin toners with more than 25 per
astringent properties tighten the skin. cent alcohol can only be used on an
All toners contain mostly water and humectants, which help with moisture oily skin.
retention.
Fresheners are available which contain only soothing agents, such as azulene
or camomile. As no alcohol is present, they are not as good at removing grease
from the skin but are ideal on a sensitive skin.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Method of use
Apply to the skin with damp cotton wool pads, stroking in a firm but gentle
rhythm all over the face and neck.
Toners can help smooth, soften and heal skin, increasing cell regeneration.
They prepare the skin to receive a moisturiser by removing any trace of grease left
by the cleanser.

Exfoliants
Key ingredients
Abrasive powders such as finely ground olive stones, nuts, oatmeal, corn-cob
powder or synthetic micro-beads
Detergent
Water and water-soluble ingredients
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Kaolin, or other clay-based ingredients

Sodium lactate
Added moisturisers and vitamins
What they do
An abrasive will act as a gentle buffer to remove the dead skin cells, felt as
small grains on the skin.
Exfoliants help to brighten the Detergent continues the cleansing process.
complexion and soften the skin Water and water-soluble ingredients help provide slip so that the cream or paste
flows over the skin easily and does not pull or drag the skin.

Think about it Kaolin or other clays will absorb grease and dirt particles, gently cleansing and
bleaching the skin slightly.
Exfoliation can be done in the
Sodium lactate is an excellent humectant to regulate moisture content within the
shower over the whole body and is
an ideal pick-me-up for the skin, for
skin.
a special evening occasion, make-up Added moisturisers and vitamins impart a light, smooth feel to the exfoliant
application or fake-tan application. without being sticky or greasy.
Because exfoliants remove old skin
Summary of action
cells, other skin preparations will be
able to penetrate more effectively. The definition of exfoliate is to peel, flake or scale, in this case the skin’s cells.
Many salons use exfoliants instead As the top layer of the epidermis is constantly shedding, an exfoliant helps the
of steamers as they are quicker, take process along.
up less space and are economical to
Helping the skin clear the accumulation of dead cells brightens the complexion,
purchase.
softens the skin and makes the skin very receptive to receiving moisture.
Exfoliants come in many commercial forms: a powder, which must be mixed with
water, a ready-made paste, or in a suspension (with water) that can also be left
on to form a face mask.
Exfoliating face masks usually have a higher proportion of clay to make the mask
Key terms dry and set on the face.
Exfoliation – the manual or All skin types benefit from exfoliation providing care is taken.
mechanical method of removing
dead skin cells from the epidermis.

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 Practical skills

Method of use
Apply a thin layer onto damp, cleansed skin in circular motions, avoiding the
eyes. Work upwards with light pressure. Care must be taken over the delicate
cheek area; if sticking or dragging of the skin occurs, add more water without
soaking the client.
Rinse off.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions. Some exfoliants can also be left on the skin
as a face mask, which is left to dry and then rinsed off.
Some face masks double as a peel, and the mask is removed by using dry fingers
in a circular motion to slough off the remaining cream before rinsing.

Fruit acid peels

Key ingredients

Unit B4
Available as lotions or masks containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)
AHAs are fruit acids from citrus fruits, bilberries and sugar cane
What they do
The fruit acids help dissolve the surface skin cells while stimulating the blood
supply.
They soften the skin cells and give the skin an appearance of being smoother and

Provide facial skincare treatment

Think about it
brighter.
There are many moisturisers on the
Method of use market, with different prices and
The products come as a mask or a lotion to be applied to the skin in an upward varying promises to work wonders
smooth motion. on the skin. The brand name, the
packaging and the promotional skills
They are ideal for a dry, mature skin.
that go with the cream can dictate
Summary of action the price as well as the quality of oil
AHA treatments can cause a slight contra-action after treatment. The skin may go used and whether other key selling
ingredients are included, such as
pink, with a tingling sensation and mild itching. This is a normal reaction and the
vitamins.
client should be advised to expect it.

Moisturising creams can be used morning and evening

Key ingredients
An emulsion of oils and waxes such as coconut or jojoba oil
Water and water-soluble ingredients
Fragrance
Preservatives
Emulsifier
Humectants such as glycerine or sorbitol
What they do
Creams contain approximately 60 per cent water, which rehydrates the skin.
Oils and waxes condition and improve the skin’s natural water barrier; some oils
such as jojoba oil prevent water loss so are ideal to add to a cream.
Moisturising creams

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Emulsifiers prevent the ingredients separating, i.e. oil and water.

Preservatives provide the product with a good shelf life and prevent deterioration.
Colour and fragrance will give appeal: for example, coconut oil has a very
distinctive smell which appeals to most people.
Summary of action
Moisturising creams can be used morning and evening depending upon skin type
and cream used.
Moisturising creams are recommended for dry skins that need the softening
effects of the oil and waxes.
Cream is especially good for skin in dry conditions, such as hot sun or central
heating, and in very cold weather.
Make-up application is made easier with a moisturiser underneath it. Be careful
about applying cream too near the delicate eye area, which may absorb the
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

cream and become puffy. Only eye cream should be used in the eye area.
Method of use
Apply a light film to create a natural protective layer and prevent dehydration of
the skin.
To avoid too much cream sitting on the skin surface, check the amount applied
by pressing a clean tissue to the face one minute after application. If grease is
present on the tissue, too much cream has been applied, or the cream is too rich
for the skin type.

Face masks
Key ingredients
Varies depending upon type of mask used. Refer to pages 314–21 where all the
products are discussed.
What they do
Masks are deep-cleansing and draw any impurity to the surface of the skin.
They may be slightly astringent to help dry up an oily skin, or rehydrating for a
dry skin.
Refer to specific mask information.
Summary of action
Refer to specific mask information.
Method of use
Refer to specific mask information.
COSHH considerations
Health hazard: inhalation of fine particles can cause irritation when mixing
powder.
If inhaled, move to fresh air; if coughing persists seek medical advice.
If mixing large quantities, a face guard is advisable.

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 Practical skills

Store in a cool, dry place in a closed container.

If in contact with eyes, rinse with plenty of water; if irritation continues, seek
medical advice.
If ingested, seek medical advice immediately.

Eye make-up removers

Key ingredients
Varies depending upon whether oil, gel, or lotion preparation.
Most are prepared from a mild cleaning agent in a cosmetic base.
Typical ingredients may include:
horse chestnut extract
Face masks draw impurities from
hydrolysed wheat proteins
the skin

Unit B4
vitamins
organic alcohol, e.g. PEG 200.
What they do
Horse chestnut is used to decrease swelling and reduces puffiness in the eye
area.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Wheat proteins moisturise lids and lashes.
Vitamins such as B5 increase cell regeneration.
Organic alcohol is a solvent, which cleanses water and oil-based dirt.
Summary of action
Eye make-up remover should be light, non-greasy and easily used without
dragging the skin.
Always ask the client if she is wearing contact lenses or false eyelash extensions.
Both may require specialist removers, certainly one that is non-oily.
Nothing is more irritating to the client than having a film left over the eye after
Eye-make-up removers can be oils,
removal of eye make-up. It must be thoroughly removed and not leaked into the
gels or lotions
client’s eye.
Method of use
Pre-soaked pads bought over the counter are usually lint pads soaked in remover.
In a salon damp cotton wool pads are normally used. Gently move over the eye
area with an upward and inward movement while supporting the eye area.
Be careful to check that the client is not allergic to the metallic fibres present in
cotton wool before commencing the treatment.
A good eye make-up remover dissolves make-up immediately. Specialist oil-based
remover may be needed to remove waterproof mascara.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Eye creams, balms and gels

Key ingredients
Varies depending upon whether a cream or gel; may include:
oil-in-water emulsions plant and herb extracts
vitamins essential oils
methyl cellulose azulene, witch hazel, cucumber and
collagen camomile.

What they do
Oil-in-water emulsion is easily absorbed by the skin so it moisturises and forms a
good base for a daytime cream under make-up.
Water-in-oil is a heavier solution and therefore only really good for the eye at night.
Eye cream should be used to delay the
formation of wrinkles and lines Vitamins help with cell regeneration.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Methyl cellulose thickens the suspension to give it a gel-like consistency, which

dries on the delicate eye area firming and tightening the skin.
Witch hazel and cucumber are mildly astringent and cooling to the eye, usually
found in eye lotions.
Summary of action
Eye creams should be used regularly to delay the formation of fine wrinkles and
lines appearing with age.
Prevention is better than cure, so eye protection should begin prior to lines forming.
Lotions are better for oily skins and the richer, thicker-textured creams are suitable
Applying eye cream for drier, lined skin.
Method of use
 Less is more with eye creams.
Application of too much is a waste
of product and may cause swelling
in the eye area if the soft tissue
around the eye area has absorbed it.
 A small blob of cream should
be warmed between your fingers
before gently massaging the cream
around the eye area. The ring
fingers, i.e. the third fingers of each
hand, have the lightest pressure
and will avoid damage to the area.
 Work in small, circular motions
from the bridge of the nose outward
to the temples, across the top of
the eye just under the eyebrow, and
then underneath the eye towards
the nose.
 Any excess can be blotted, but do
try not to waste any of it.

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 Practical skills

COSHH considerations
For cleansing creams, milks and lotions; facial washes and gels; toners and skin
fresheners; exfoliants; fruit acid peels; eye make-up removers; and eye creams,
balms and gels:
Non-hazardous, non-inflammable if less than 10 per cent alcohol.
If ingested, drink milk or water.
If in contact with the eyes, wash well with water; if irritation occurs, seek medical
advice.
If spilled, use absorbent towels to clean the area, wash with detergent and water
to avoid slippery floors.
No special handling and storage precautions are necessary.

Neck creams
While a lot of attention is given to the face, the neck area is a very clear mirror

Unit B4
reflecting age and/or neglect of the skin. All facials should include the neck area, and
some very good preparations are available.
Unfortunately, many clients do not bother with their necks – it is worth encouraging
younger clients to pamper the neck area to prevent damage occurring.
Most neck preparations are very rich in formula, with high oil content to nourish and
moisturise.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Hydrolysed collagen, elastin and vitamin E are common ingredients, which will
moisturise, increase suppleness and firm the neck.
Instruct the client to apply a light film after toning at night. Encourage her to include
the neck area in the morning routine of cleanse, tone and moisturise, even though
make-up application will not go on to the neck. The neck still needs protection from
pollution, the environment and the sun, and from the danger of dehydration.

Hand care
Hands often show the first signs of ageing (like the neck area), especially if neglected
or unprotected.
Encourage the use of hand creams – again, prevention and protection are better than
cure!
The client should rub in any excess moisturiser into her hands, rather than waste the
product, and a hand cream should become part of a night-time routine.
Refer to Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services, pages 455–94, for
further information.

Lip care
Lips can be sadly neglected, until cold sores and chapped lips become a problem.
When you are removing the client’s eye make-up the lipstick can also be removed, Keep hands well moisturised to delay
and the cleansing medium and massage motion will help keep the lips moist. the signs of ageing

Lip balms, flavoured lip-gloss and lip creams are available to help dry or sore lips.
Remember, the lips need protection against the sun, as they have no melanin of their
own. While most lipsticks contain a sunscreen, naked lips will not be protected.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Skin type Products most suitable

Normal Eye make-up remover lotion

Light cleansing cream or lotion
Facial wash if preferred
Toner with 10–20 per cent alcohol content
Light moisturiser cream or lotion
Eye lotion

Dry Eye make-up remover oil or cream

Cream cleanser
Low-alcohol-content toner, or no-alcohol if sensitive too
Paraffin wax mask
Non-setting (hydrating) mask
Eye cream
Cream moisturiser
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Greasy Eye make-up remover lotion

Cleansing lotion or cleansing milk
Facial wash or foaming gel
Toner with 2–50 per cent alcohol content
Cleansing grains or peel
Clay-based masks
Moisturiser milk
Light eye gel

Combination T-zone – follow greasy skin recommendations

Dry cheek areas – follow dry skin recommendations
Normal cheek areas – follow normal skin recommendations
Young congested T-zone – follow congested skin recommendations with
normal skin recommendations on cheeks
Exfoliating cream/gel
Balancing mask (two masks can be used, one on the T-zone and one on
the cheeks)

Sensitive As for dry skin

Specialist products are available for hypersensitive skin
Check for known allergies to products
Check for allergies to cotton wool

Dehydrated As for dry skin

Specialist treatments are available in most salons using advanced
techniques such as a galvanic facial (NVQ Level 3 work). Be aware and
read the salon price list. Another therapist may be able to help the
client’s skin.

Congested Eye make-up lotion

Cleansing lotion or cleansing milk
Facial wash or foaming gel
Toner with 25–50 per cent alcohol content
Cleansing grains or peel
Clay-based masks
Moisturiser milk
Light eye gel

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 Practical skills

Personal preferences for products used –

Cost – the client will need to i.e. creams, oils or gels Contra-indications present
consider the price of the treatment
you are recommending

FACTORS THAT WILL INFLUENCE Previous

YOUR TREATMENT PLAN contra-actions
Time – the client may be
in their lunch hour

Condition of the skin – any Small areas of concern – i.e.

corrective work required bruising, dilated capillaries

Suggesting a treatment plan

Unit B4
This will depend partly on the personal product preferences of the client. Some
clients like the feel of water on the face, others do not; some like a cream, others
prefer a lighter texture. Investigate different product houses – most produce specific
lines for each skin type, and you can recommend a whole range which work together.

Equipment and materials

Provide facial skincare treatment

As well as deciding on the type of products that will meet your client’s needs
when planning her treatment, you should give some thought to the equipment and
supporting materials required – such as magnifying lamp, skin warming devices, for
example hot towels, and consumables – before beginning the facial. Refer to skin-
warming technique below.

Specific preparation of the client

This will depend on the equipment used. You need to consider each piece of
equipment as well as the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Improve and maintain skin condition

In this outcome you will learn about:
• using facial products and equipment correctly and following • using a suitable massage medium for the client’s skin type
manufacturers’ instructions and skin condition using and adapting massage techniques to
• leaving the skin clean and free of all traces of make-up using meet the needs of the client and agreed treatment
suitable deep-cleansing techniques • using and adapting massage techniques to meet the needs of
• using suitable exfoliation techniques, minimising discomfort to the client and agreed treatment
the client • applying mask treatments evenly and neatly, ensuring that the
• leaving the skin smooth, free of any surface debris and area to be treated is covered
products using an exfoliation technique suitable for the client’s • removing masks after a recommended time and without
skin type and skin condition discomfort to the client
• using a suitable skin-warming technique relevant to the client’s • ensuring that the skin is left clean, toned and suitably
needs moisturised
• carrying out any necessary comedone extraction, when • ensuring the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction and
required, minimising discomfort to the client and with minimal meets the agreed treatment plan.
damage to the skin

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

This outcome is all about performing the facial treatments: you have completed
Key terms
your skin analysis in a hygienic manner, you have prepared your products and
Skin warming – methods of heating equipment and the treatment plan is agreed with the client. The client is in a
the skin gently by hot towels, facial safe and comfortable position, with the skin cleansed and ready to receive your
steaming or self-heating products attention.

Using a suitable skin-warming technique

Warmth applied to the face is a very good way of helping to maximise the
effects of the treatment. Warmth will help relax the muscles, open the
pores and soften the skin in preparation for further treatments. Extraction and
nourishing the skin are extremely effective after warming.
There are several ways to warm the skin:
hot towels
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

facial steaming
self-heating products such as thermal masks.

Hot towels
Hot towels are a very convenient method of warming the skin. They can be
applied without equipment and are ideal for the mobile therapist who does not
have access to a facial steaming unit.
Hot towels were always used in the old-fashioned barbershop when a close
shave was offered with the haircut. A hot flannel would have the same effect
Hot towels can be used to apply heat but may make the client feel claustrophobic.
to the skin

How do I do it?
F old a hand towel into four and immerse in hot water leaving an
edge for the hands to grip.
 lternatively, if you have a hot-towel steaming unit (a small oven
A
that looks like a microwave), put in a damp towel and the heater
will warm it up for you.
 emember health and safety – if the towel is too hot to wring out
R
with the hands, it is too hot to go on the face. It needs to be hand
hot.
 ring out and fold over the client’s face, with the towel ends at
W
the forehead. This will allow the nose to remain uncovered for
claustrophobic clients.
 ress gently into the contours of the face until the towel cools.
P
Do not allow the face to become cold again as this will negate
the benefits of the treatment.
The hot-towel procedure can be repeated if needed.
Treatments can now be carried out on a beautifully clean, receptive
skin.

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 Practical skills

Facial steaming
Face steamers are like big kettles – they boil water to create
steam. Steam benefits the skin by opening the pores and
allowing deep cleansing. They are nearly always used in
conjunction with face masks and are classed as a special
treatment.
Most facial steamer machines have the following
characteristics:
Vapour jets can be swivelled in all directions.
Control panel has a warning light.
Water capacity is 2 litres.
Boiling time with 2 litres of water is nine minutes.
Distilled water only must be used to maintain the life

Unit B4
of the equipment and avoid limescale build-up on the
heating element.
Essential oils can be added by applying them to cotton
wool, which is placed in the special filter basket located in
the filling funnel. Oily liquids must not be poured directly
into the steamer.

Provide facial skincare treatment

The heater should be de-scaled periodically with
acidulated water, following the manufacturer’s
Always measure your steamer’s
instructions. distance from the client’s face to avoid
scalding the client
Caution

The illustration shows the maximum possible head The vaporiser must under no circumstances be used with the head in
swivel to prevent the vapour from spraying water the position shown on the left. This position stops the condensation
during the treatment. returning to the heater and the vaporiser will spray water.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Contra-indications to a steam treatment

Hypersensitive skins
Open cuts – infection could set in
Acne rosacea
Split capillaries – increasing the circulation and heat will put extra strain
on these delicate blood vessels, and in some cases will worsen them
Bad streaming colds or hay fever
Severe bronchial conditions or asthma
Very high blood pressure or where the client suffers from dizzy spells
Any eye infections, such as conjunctivitis, which could spread in the warm
conditions
Diabetes – the metabolic rate must not be increased
Sunburn or previous ultraviolet exposure
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Claustrophobia
Benefits of steaming
The circulation is increased, causing the pores to open; the skin sweats,
getting rid of impurities such as dirt, old make-up and dead skin cells,
leaving the skin with a fresher, glowing appearance.
Stimulates oil glands and improves moisture content in the skin.
Comedones are more easily removed with less risk of scarring or marking
the skin.
Aids the process of shedding old skin cells – called desquamation.
Helps with regeneration of skin cells in a dry, mature or dehydrated skin.
A relaxing treatment for the client, because of the warmth and the
essential oils if used.

Items required
Distilled water (required for refilling machine).
Cotton wool rounds (damp) for eyes.
Tissue (this is used to wipe the client’s face during treatment, avoiding
drips which can lead to discomfort for the client).

Preparation of couch
Check that the couch is stable and will not move during treatment.
Place the couch in semi-reclining position.

Preparation of client
Prepare the client, as you would do for any facial treatment, paying
special attention to the head and ensuring that there are no stray hairs
around the face and neck.
Ensure the client is comfortable and relaxed and all jewellery has been
removed.

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 Practical skills

Lay a towel across the neck area (if treating the neck and face, then lay
the towel across the chest). Tuck the towel in at either end.
Explain the treatment to the client – this will allay any fears she may
have. Commence the treatment with a facial cleanse.

Safety precautions
Check the machine, e.g. wires, flex, plug and on/off switch. Think about it
Check the level of distilled water is correct. As a safety precaution for steaming,
Check the machine is functioning correctly and producing ozone (before always place the client in a semi-
the client’s arrival). reclining position. Never have the
Ensure the couch is stable and in the correct position. client lying flat with the face up and
the steamer directly over the face – if
Ensure that the flex does not trail across the floor, endangering other
the boiling water spits out or drips,
clients, your colleagues and yourself. it will fall on to the client and cause

Unit B4
When the machine is not in use, make sure it is unplugged and in a safe burns. If the steamer is parallel to
area away from the main activity in the salon. the face, any drips will go on to the
During treatment the therapist must be in attendance at all times. floor, which although potentially
hazardous, will not harm the client.
Eye pads must be used throughout this treatment.
All spillage must be cleaned up,
While the machine is in use, ensure that it is the correct distance away before an accident occurs.
from the client to avoid scalding.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Take care when repositioning the machine, as it gets hot during use.
Make sure there is a steady flow of steam coming from the nozzle before
placing the steamer arm over the client’s face. This will ensure the
nozzle does not spit out hot water and burn the client.

Face steaming – application

Salon pre-treatment to facial steaming
Manual cleanse.
Brush cleanse (depending on skin type).
Facial vacuum (depending on skin type).

Aftercare to facial steaming

Dry the skin with tissue before commencing other treatments.
Continue with either massage or other electrical equipment that might be
recommended for the client’s skin type.
A mask must always follow a facial steam treatment.

Steaming procedure
1 Check the tank is full and switch the machine on 5–10 minutes before
it is required, to permit water heating to commence. The vapour switch
is only required at this stage.
2 Ensure the client is well protected with towels and that her hair is
covered.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

3 Prepare the client for facial treatment by cleansing the skin, and at the same
Think about it
time discuss and explain the treatment and its effects, thus alleviating any fears
Before you start any electrical she might have. Inform her that the machine will make a noise and that an
equipment application, you should unusual smell will be present – all of which is perfectly normal.
carry out thermal and sensitivity skin
tests to the face. 4 Ensure the client is in a semi-reclined position.

Thermal skin test – this involves the 5 Place eye pads (damp) over the client’s eyes. This will avoid irritation.
use of hot and cold to test the skin’s When the client is fully prepared, position the steamer approximately 30–45 cm
sensitivity to heat. Fill two test tubes: from the client’s face, using at this stage only vapour.
one with cold water, the other with
6 Once the client is settled, inform her you are switching over to ozone, then
warm. Place the test tubes alternately
switch on the ozone control. The steam changes its consistency, becomes
on the client’s skin and ask her to
ionised, cloud-like and very fine in appearance.
specify which one is cold and which
one is warm. This test should be (Refer to your professional body for directives about using ozone.)
used before applying heat to the
7 Stay in attendance at all times and regularly check the client’s skin reaction.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

client’s skin. It shows whether the

Points to note are hot spots, erythema or client’s discomfort – if any of these
nerve endings in the skin are working
occur, discontinue treatment. Cool the skin with the application of a cool
properly.
compress – not too cold as this will make the client jump.
Sensitivity skin test – for this test
8 Remember to wipe away with tissue any drips that might cause client
the client should close her eyes.
discomfort.
Touch her face alternately with a soft
object, such as a smooth tissue or 9 Do not exceed the treatment time. This will vary between 10 and 20 minutes
piece of cotton wool, and an object depending on skin type.
with a sharp edge, such as a spatula.
10 On completion of the treatment return to vapour, then switch the machine off
If the client is able to distinguish
between the two, then the sensory
completely.
nerve endings are working in the skin 11 Unplug the machine and place it in a safe area of the salon.
and the treatment can take place.
12 Remember to remove all surface moisture with a tissue.
13 If necessary, use your metal eradicator (comedone extractor) for
blackheads.
14 Complete the treatment with a massage and face mask or continue
with another electrical apparatus depending on the client’s skin type or
treatment plan.

General cleanse and tone 5 minutes on lower neck

5 minutes on lower face
4–5 minutes on full face

Disinfecting and antibacterial effect on 10 minutes on lower face and neck

oily and blemished skin 10 minutes on full face

Regenerating effect on dry/dehydrated 2–3 minutes on lower face and neck

Recommended application time and
treatments
mature skin 1–3 minutes on full face to achieve erythema

Conclude this treatment with a nourishing massage to prevent irritation and

overdryness.
Note: After treatment, surface moisture should be removed, then other treatments or
a mask should be applied.

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 Practical skills

Risk assessment for steaming equipment

Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 71–86, for a complete discussion on risk assessment.
Hazard: only look for hazards that you could reasonably expect to result in
significant harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following
examples as a guide.
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead)
• Burning of equipment (through low water level in the tank)
• Moving parts of machinery (e.g. casing gets hot – use towel to protect hands)
• Ejection of materials (spitting hot water)
• Electricity (e.g. poor wiring)
• Fumes (e.g. from added aromatherapy chemicals)

Unit B4
• Manual handling (hot casing)
• Falling machinery (if not securely attached to base when moving steamer)

Salon after-treatment
Extraction of blackheads – if required on oily skin. (Refer to page 298 for the
procedure to use for comedone extraction.)

Provide facial skincare treatment

Massage – all skin types.
Massage including audio sonic – dry or dehydrated skin.
Mask – use appropriate mask for client’s skin type.
High frequency: direct – oily skin; indirect – dry or sluggish skin.
Galvanic-iontophoresis – dry or dehydrated skin.
From this list and from the salon pre-treatment list for facial steaming, a treatment
plan with variety can be compiled, offering maximum benefit to the client.

Face steaming – suggested routines

A B C D
Cleanse Cleanse Cleanse Cleanse
Facial steam Brush cleanse Facial steam Brush cleanse
Manual massage – either Facial steam Massage including audio-sonic – Facial vacuum
normal/dry or oily skin Use of comedone extractor – dry/dehydrated skin Facial steam – oily/blemished
Mask oily/blemished skin Mask skin
Tone, moisturiser Mask Tone, moisturiser Mask
Tone, moisturiser Tone, moisturiser
E F G H
Cleanse Cleanse Cleanse Cleanse
Facial steam Facial steam Facial vacuum Facial steam
Direct high frequency Massage Facial steam Non-surgical face lifting
Galvanic iontophoresis – dry/ Indirect high – dry/dehydrated Galvanic cleanse
dehydrated skin skin Balancing programme
Cleanse Lifting
Iontophoresis

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Awarding Body code of ethics on the use of ozone

The use of ozone can be very beneficial when administered in small quantities and
under supervision, but it may also be destructive when used incorrectly.
Some public health authorities and beauty examination boards believe that the use of
ozone can be bad for your health. Inhaling it in great strength can lead to respiratory
infections.
Most Awarding Bodies do not recommend that ozone is used under any
circumstances.
Key terms Self-heating products such as thermal masks
Mask treatment – preparation Refer to mask treatments (on pages 314–21) for the use of thermal masks to pre-
applied to the skin as part of a facial heat the skin.
to reinforce cleansing of the facial
skin.
Carrying out comedone extraction
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Some salons offer milia extraction during a facial, using a sterile probe to pierce the
skin at the site of the milia. The milia are then safely squeezed out. Tissues should
be used to protect the hands, and gloves should also be worn. There is often a small
amount of blood spotting.
Using a sterilised comedone extractor, gently apply pressure to the comedone centre
and ease the comedone out. Do not apply too much pressure, or squeeze, as this can
cause scarring. Using suitable exfoliation techniques
If a metal comedone extractor is not available, cover the fingertips with tissue and
gently roll the skin around the comedone, to ease it out.

Extraction using a comedone extractor Manual comedone extraction

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 Practical skills

Brush cleansing
Brush cleansing is designed to give deep cleansing and a stimulating massage. It
can be used to remove a mask or peel from the skin. It is essential to follow the
individual manufacturer’s instructions.
Most brush systems are supplied with a complete range of brush, sponge and pumice
heads, which ensures perfect treatment on most skin types, providing no contra-
indications are present.
To ensure there is no unnecessary pulling of the delicate facial or neck tissue, most
machines have variable speed control and directional change for the heads.

Pumice stone head (small 20 mm)

This pumice stone head will remove film or gel masks with a slightly abrasive
action yet will cause very little skin drag. It can also be used for desquamation and
treatment on scarred or pigmented tissue. It can be incorporated into a pedicure

Unit B4
treatment for the removal of hard skin on the heel.

Sponges (small 20 mm, medium 40 mm)

When dampened, these very versatile heads can be used on the most delicate and
sensitive skin types. For best results, they should be used in conjunction with a
foaming, deep-cleansing product.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Brushes (small 20 mm, medium 40 mm)
Soft brushes can be used for all types of deep-cleansing treatments and stimulation
massage on most areas of the face or body. The small head will easily treat areas
around the ears, nose and eyes, while the larger head can be most successfully used
on foreheads and cheeks.

Brush – bristle (medium 40 mm)

This bristle head gives a very stimulating treatment while desquamating the skin and
cleansing blocked pores. It is a suitable treatment for those clients with firmer tissue,
especially men.

Brush – medium goat hair (cylindrical 60 x 40 mm)

Used in conjunction with a foaming cleanser or any desquamating product, this
cylindrical body brush will deep cleanse the back, arms or legs. As well as cleansing,
the action provides a gentle, stimulating massage, increasing circulation and therefore
improving skin texture and colour.

Contra-indications to a brush cleanse

Broken skin Broken veins
Skin diseases or infections Inflammation or irritation of the skin
Hypersensitive skins Diabetes
Extremely loose tissue

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The direction of strokes when giving a

Brush cleansing of the face Removal of gel for brush cleanse
skin brushing treatment
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Effects of a brush cleanse

Aids desquamation.
Stimulates deeper cell renewal.
Removes surface cellular matter.
Deep cleanses and refines skin tissue.
Relaxes muscle fibres.
Stimulates superficial and deeper tissues.
Improves cellular function and regeneration.
Aids the removal of waste products from the area.
Increases blood and lymph circulation.

How do I do it?
1 Prepare the client for a normal facial procedure.
2 Remove eye make-up.
3 Give a superficial manual cleanse to the face and neck, using skin cleanser
suitable for the skin type.
4 Select the recommended product suitable for the skin type to the face and neck.
Decant a sufficient amount into a plastic bowl and replace the lid of the product.
Application can be done with the brush head, mask brush, damp sponges or
hands, depending upon recommendations. The product will either be a foaming
cleanser or facial scrub, depending upon client needs.
5 Select the brushing head required, wet it in warm water (without it dripping) and
insert it firmly into the black handle. Turn on the machine.
6 Make contact with the back of your own hand and ensure speed control is at
minimum – always test the machine on yourself prior to using it on the client.
Now switch on to confirm the machine is in good working order. Demonstrate
the action to the client – she needs to be aware of the noise before the machine
makes contact with the face.

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 Practical skills

7 Switch off, and remove from your hand. Cleanse the head and start the process
again, making contact with the client’s skin.
8 Eye pads can be placed over the eyes if the client prefers – it does prevent any
product getting into them.
9 Place the applicator head on to the neck and gently increase speed control until the
desired action is achieved, ensuring client comfort.
10 Work upwards on the neck and face in straight lines (as in the diagram above) and
avoid the delicate skin around the eyes.
11 Work over the area for 5–7 minutes.
12 Reduce speed control to a minimum, turn off the machine and remove the brush
from the skin.
13 Remove any remaining product with damp sponges and continue the facial routine.

Unit B4
Risk assessment for brush cleansing • Burning of equipment (through motor running too fast)
equipment • Moving parts of machinery (e.g. dropping heads on to
client’s face when removing them)
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce
• Ejection of materials (spitting products into client’s eyes)
risks to health and safety, pages 71–86, for a complete
discussion of risk assessment. • Spillage (e.g. from too much product applied to heads)
• Electricity (e.g. poor wiring)
Hazard: only look for hazards that you could reasonably

Provide facial skincare treatment

expect to result in significant harm under the conditions in • Manual handling (lifting machine)
your workplace. Use the following examples as a guide. • Loose heads (if not inserted into handle firmly enough)
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead)

Steaming with a brush cleanse

If a steam treatment is indicated for the type of skin being treated, it should be given
either before brushing (to soften dead cells and open pores) or in conjunction with brushing
– this ensures the area is also kept moist throughout the treatment. It will depend upon
the skin texture – too much stimulation will not be good for a delicate skin type. Be
guided by your particular manufacturer’s instructions.

Care and maintenance of brush heads

After use, clean the brush head thoroughly in hot, soapy water. Rinse and dry. Place in a
sanitiser between clients to avoid the risk of cross-infection. Be guided by your particular
manufacturer’s instructions.

Product exfoliators
If the client is restricted for time, steaming and brush cleansing may be too time-
consuming. Exfoliators are now very popular in salons. In this situation the use of a
product exfoliator is very effective: it can be applied easily, and is quickly removed after
priming the skin to be receptive for massage and mask therapy.
The exfoliator may take the form of granules in a dry form, which you mix into a paste
with warm water and massage into the skin. Product houses also make exfoliants which
are pre-mixed in tubes and are so gentle some of them can be used daily. Dead skin cells
are removed by abrasive powders, such as finely ground olive stones, nuts, oatmeal,
corn-cob powder or synthetic micro-beads, buffing the skin. (Refer back to the product
information on exfoliant use, page 284.)

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

There is a difference between exfoliants professionally applied in the salon and

Think about it
those sold to clients for use at home. Professional exfoliants have slightly stronger
Some exfoliants can cause extreme ingredients and require training for application; they also have activators and
irritation and redness; in these accelerators which need to be mixed in proportions suitable for each skin type.
cases, you should carry out a patch
test – always follow manufacturer’s The only drawback with using exfoliating products is that they can get a bit messy!
instructions. Make sure the client’s turban is protected with an extra layer of tissue, and put a
double thickness of couch roll under the client’s neck and shoulders to catch any
A patch test involves applying a fallen product. This can then be removed prior to the massage starting. It would be
small amount of product to an area,
very uncomfortable for the client to be lying on granules throughout the rest of the
behind the ear, 24 hours prior to use,
treatment. Your fingers will also tend to pick them up, especially if you are using an
and then checking for a reaction. Any
oil medium, and you will drag them over the face – which will be scratchy.
inflammation or irritation means the
product is not suitable for use. The client may prefer to use eye pads to avoid getting any granules in the eye.
Remember also to check the client’s ears – and chest area (and in the bra!) – when
Never give professional exfoliant
removing the product, and certainly before she leaves the salon, as granules tend to
ingredients to clients to use at
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

fall in and look unsightly. The more you have to work with, the harder it is to remove
home – they might not carry out the
instructions correctly, which could
and the messier it seems to get. Practice makes perfect, and in time you will be able
cause skin irritation. to judge the amount of product needed quite effectively.

Using and adapting massage techniques

Think about it
Facial massage
Do not perform exfoliant treatments
All massage is extremely therapeutic, whether of the face, scalp or body. It is very
on people with skin that is already
relaxing both to give a facial massage and to receive one. A good therapist knows her
irritated, such as sunburn, or on skin
massage movements so well that she doesn’t have to think about where her hands
that has been waxed. Clients on
go next, and she can also enjoy the experience.
strong medication for acne, such as
Accutane, should not be given strong Massage movements can also be incorporated into a cleansing routine, and most
exfoliants for six months after the other facial and cleansing treatments.
drug has been stopped. Clients using
Retin-A for the medical treatment of
To be truly relaxing, a good massage has continuity, rhythm and the correct depth,
acne should stop the drug two weeks appropriate to the area and the needs of the client.
prior to exfoliation taking place – Facial massage has several benefits.
this is a vitamin A derivative and is
available in five strengths of cream, It helps dead surface cells to loosen and be shed. This helps the natural
gel or liquid form. It increases cell exfoliation process and produces a clean-looking, fresh complexion.
turnover, so more exfoliation is not Facial muscles are relaxed, and they receive more blood supply because of
good! Always follow manufacturer’s the stimulation to the circulation. This improves the tone and strength of the
instructions and be guided by them. muscles, giving a firmer facial appearance.
As the blood circulation is improved the face area is warmed. This is very relaxing
if muscles are clenched and tense in the jaw and forehead.
An increase in lymphatic drainage to the face (massage always flows in the
direction of the lymph nodes) produces an increase in cellular activity and the
removal of toxins. The sebaceous glands are stimulated to increase sebum
production, and this keeps the skin protected and supple.
To make the treatment doubly effective, and help the massage medium penetrate
deeper into the skin, try the application of heat on to the skin with either hot towels,
steaming or exfoliation by brush cleansing.

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Psychologically, massage is very beneficial. It is so relaxing that some clients drift off
to sleep! The gentle rhythm is soothing and calming. The atmosphere in your working
area should enhance this; relaxing music helps the process along and encourages the
client to let go of conscious thought and drift away.
Your massage movements may need adapting for the different skin types, conditions
and mediums, as well as muscular tension present and the client choice of medium.
You should ask the client if she prefers oil or cream. Oily skin is best massaged with
cream to avoid adding oil to the skin. Dry skin soaks up oil (although the client may
prefer cream) – make sure you have enough medium on at the beginning so the
massage is not disturbed by you breaking contact to apply more.
Minor contra-indications, such as a bruise, can be avoided and muscular tension in
the upper back will require firmer movements. Check with the client if she prefers a
firm massage or more gentle massage – ideally, facial massage will relax the client
to such an extent that she goes to sleep, so avoid vigorous movements.

Unit B4
Massage mediums
Some product houses supply their own massage
medium in their treatment range which has the same
active ingredients as their face masks and cleansers.
Some mediums have aromatherapy oils already added –
such as Decleor products. Always follow manufacturer’s

Provide facial skincare treatment

instructions and remember to check if your client has a
nut allergy before using almond oil or any other nut-
based oil.

Facial massage movements

Massage movements are performed with the hands over
the neck, shoulders and chest, as well as the facial area.
The movements require practice in order to perfect the
skills and outcomes required.
Movements are adapted according to the client’s
needs and relate directly to the facial analysis or the
consultation. It may be that your client has specific
areas of tension, or that her skin is particularly dry and
therefore needs an oil, rather than a cream.
A good massage is very relaxing and
The basic massage movements are classified by their names (in French) and their therapeutic
particular effects and benefits to the skin. These are:
effleurage   tapotement   petrissage   frictions   vibrations.
There are two types of effleurage: superficial and deep.

Superficial effleurage
This is a light, flowing pressure used at the beginning and the end of most
treatments. It introduces your hands on to the client, spreads the massage medium
and can be a great linking movement to help the massage flow.

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How do I do it?
Use the entire palmar surface of the hands, keeping the fingers together and the thumb
either close into the side of the hand, or open and out of the way. The area being
massaged is covered by all or part of the palmar surface. Pressure should be light and
even, with good contact with the skin, and the hands should be warm and relaxed.
Superficial effleurage does not normally affect the circulation as it is not a deep
movement, so it can be used in any direction.
The benefits of superficial effleurage are:
relaxation of tense muscle fibres
a general feeling of relaxation
stimulation of sensory nerve ending and a feeling of pleasure
introduction of the massage medium and cream on to the skin
a soothing and calming sensation.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Think about it
How you approach massage also affects your client and the mood of the treatment.
If you are rushed and hurried, no benefit will be gained by your client. Be calm, fully
prepared and collect your thoughts before you begin. Giving a massage should be a
little like meditation for the therapist – a quiet, soothing time for you both.

Deep effleurage
This is the same type of movement as superficial effleurage but with more pressure
applied – not too much to make the sensation uncomfortable, but enough to
encourage muscular relaxation and for you to feel the tension knots.
Maintaining contact with the skin helps avoid overstimulation of the nerve endings.
This is because when contact is broken and then re-established, it sets up a reflex
response in the nerve endings, which prevents the muscles from relaxing.
The benefits of deep effleurage are that it aids:
venous return
arterial circulation by removal of congestion from veins
desquamation.

Petrissage
There are four different categories:
kneading rolling – mostly used on body
wringing – mostly used on body picking up.
Petrissage always follows effleurage. It is a compression movement performed using
intermittent pressure with either one or both hands, using the hands in different
positions. Most petrissage movements work on all or part of a muscle and it is
important that, as a muscle is slowly released from application, pressure is reduced.
Petrissage movements must be applied rhythmically and not in a hurried way. Too
much pressure may result in damage to the skin – adaptation to the client’s needs is
vital.

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 Practical skills

Petrissage has several benefits.

Aching, hard muscles are relaxed, helping to prevent the formation of tension
modules.
Skin regeneration is stimulated.
It has a toning effect on muscle tissue.
It helps eliminate muscular fatigue by aiding in the removal of lactic acid.
It helps the removal of waste products and lymphatic flow.

Frictions
Frictions are classified within the petrissage group, but their purpose differs. Friction
movements will loosen adherent skin, loosen scars, and aid in absorption of fluid
around the joints. The pressure is firm and the movement is usually applied in
circular directions on the face. Fingertips or thumbs are mostly used in small areas.

Unit B4
Frictions have two main benefits.
Adhesions and loose skin are freed.
Scar tissue can be stretched and loosened.

Tapotement
Tapotement is a percussion movement and involves what its name implies – tapping.

Provide facial skincare treatment

The tips of the fingers are used over the face to create very light tapping movements,
which stimulate the skin.
It is very important that sufficient adipose tissue is present to perform the treatment.
It is not used on sensitive skin to avoid possible overreaction and skin damage.
Tapotement has two main benefits.
It increases localised blood supply.
It increases nervous response due to stimulation.

Vibrations
Vibrations are fine, trembling movements performed on or along a nerve path by the Think about it
fingers. The muscles of the operator’s forearm are continually contracted and relaxed
Always use effleurage to link
to produce a fine tremble or vibration, which runs to the fingertips. It is used at the
petrissage movements.
occipital region in facial massage.
The benefits of vibrations are:
it can relieve pain
it can relax the client due to its sedative effect.

Think about it
Make sure you have enough of the massage medium on the skin. If you have too little,
the hands become sticky and the movements will not flow. If you have too much, it will
run down the client’s face! If in the first application you can judge that the client’s skin
is dry and is soaking up the cream or oil, then apply a little more at the beginning of
the second application, rather than having to stop the massage to apply more.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Salon life
My story
My name is Candice and I really wanted to go on to Level 3 but I
was having trouble remembering all the information about products,
massage movements and skin types for facials at Level 2. I asked
my mum and sisters to have facials at home for me to practise my
skills and then they started coming into college to model too. It has
really made a difference to my confidence – I can now complete my
massage without having to refer to my sheet. I would say to anyone
just starting that you need to keep practising your skills – it really
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

does make you perfect!

Effects of facials
Benefits of a facial for the client: Benefits of a facial for the therapist:
• Professional skin analysis for correct diagnosis of skin • Excellent retail opportunities in recommending products
type
• Diversity of treatments and clients keeps the day
• Healthier looking skin and general health benefits due to interesting
better circulation of lymph and blood
• Good recommendations and treatments can improve
• Mental and physical relaxation client’s confidence as well as their skin – this can be
• Aftercare advice and product recommendations very rewarding

ASK THE EXPERTS Top tips

• Practice, practice, practice until facials are routine to
Q What is the most important part of a facial?
you. This allows you to concentrate on the client and
A The consultation. You need to understand the client’s
their needs rather than focusing on what you
needs before you begin so you can choose the right
are doing.
products and give the correct aftercare advice.
What if a man wants a facial? What should I do?
• Don’t be afraid to try new products – the more
Q
knowledge you have, the more you can offer your
A Male skin is slightly thicker but you can follow the
basic routine, just as you would for a female client.
clients.
You will have no make-up to remove but cleansing is • Be flexible. Product houses have different methods
still important. For comfort, ensure your movements and procedures and your massage movements will
go downwards with the hair growth pattern rather evolve and develop as your confidence grows. When
than against it. Use clean sponges when removing you have qualified you may change and adapt your
products as cotton wool may get stuck in beard hair.
massage routines according to who you are working
with – sharing good practice and picking up tips from
more experienced therapists is a great way to learn.

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 Practical skills

Step-by-step facial massage routine

Female client
All movements should be carried out six times. The massage should last for 20 minutes.

1 Apply massage medium all over the face, neck and shoulders 2 Apply pressure over the chest and go over the shoulders, working
and spread evenly. With both hands together, start at chin, and along the upper back towards the spine.
move down either side of neck towards shoulders.

Unit B4
3 When your hands reach either side of the spine, work upwards 4 Face brace: with hands in an upside-down prayer position, begin
and gently stretch the neck, lifting the head slightly off the couch. under the chin, with heels of the hands resting lightly on the chin.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Work upwards, over the cheeks, lifting quite firmly The cheeks will
move slightly, as the client is relaxed.

5 Finish with a firm, lifting movement on the forehead. 6 From the forehead, gently slide the hands back to the jawline.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

7 Perform rotaries of petrissage, starting from the chin and moving 8 Continue your circular massage up the sides of the neck, ready
down either side of the neck towards the shoulders and beyond, to begin another movement.
paying special attention to the arm and deltoid muscle. Use small
circular motions across all of the chest area. You may only be able
to use your fingertips if the client is small – no long nails!
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

9 Turn your hands into loose fists and rotate your fingers to form 10 Finish the movement at the jawline ready to begin alternate
knuckling. Come down from the neck and across the chest, over triangular sweeping.
shoulders and back to the occipital cavity.

11 Support the jaw with your left hand; with the right hand, stroke 12 Take your right hand behind the shoulder.
down the right side, to the shoulder. Stroke across the chest to the
other shoulder.

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 Practical skills

13 Stroke your left hand across the chest to meet the right hand at 14 Bring the right hand back up to the jaw and left hand back across
the right shoulder. the chest.

Unit B4
15 Bring the left hand back up to meet at the jaw. 16 Bring the right hand back down at the shoulder.

Provide facial skincare treatment

17 Perform trapezius rolling – work hands together on one side, 18 Cheek lift – index finger to little finger – turn and twist off.
then the other.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

19 Tap along the jawline. 20 Perform rotaries along jawline – thumbs abducted – centre
outwards.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

21 Knuckle over chin and cheeks. 22 Facial lift – work hands along each side of the face – lift and join
hands together over the forehead, then divide off.

23 Forehead brace – both hands lift up the eyebrows to the hairline. 24 Turn hands sideways and gently pull the forehead from the
centre, smoothing out the temples.

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 Practical skills

25 Finish with slight finger rotation pressure at the temples. 26 Slide hands down to the jaw. Pinch along the jawline, using
thumb and forefinger.

Unit B4
27 Using alternate hand movements, begin roll patting over cheeks 28 Tap over cheeks, using light pressure – fingertips only.
and forehead. Repeat this movement over both sides of the face.

Provide facial skincare treatment

29 Apply frictions, using index fingers, around mouth and chin. 30 Apply frictions, using index fingers, around nostrils.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

31 Work up nose with index fingers. 32 Zigzag with middle fingers going into a V created by the other
hand over forehead.
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

33 Working right across and down the forehead, cover all areas – 34 Do small circular pinching movements along the length of the
this movement is especially appreciated by clients who suffer from eyebrows.
headaches.

35 Piano playing across brow: circle eyes and bring all fingers 36 Pinch brows – centre to sides. Slide back and repeat.
across the brow. Start with little finger and finish with index finger.

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 Practical skills

37 Come back to jawline and begin superficial effleurage down 38 Perform superficial effleurage over shoulder area, gradually
either side of the neck. slowing down as you finish the massage.

Unit B4
Male client
1 Cleanse as per a female client, making sure to treat the entire 2 Use sponges and warm water to remove cleanser rather than
forehead. Long hair may still require a headband. cotton wool, which tends to break up over facial hair causing fluff.

Provide facial skincare treatment

3 A facial scrub or mask will exfoliate and deep cleanse the pores, 4 Remove scrub or mask with warm water and sponges. Pat dry,
especially if the client isn’t shaving. tone and moisturise.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it
Different product houses have different massage routines and you will be taught
various movements when you do your training for them. Over time and with lots of
experience, you will find your massage routine grows and evolves – you will leave out
some movements and put in others. Remember, movements for your assessments need
to be recognisable to your assessor – so stick with the routine in the book until you
have passed this unit and then you can adapt your massage to suit you and your client.

Stimulating
Applying mask treatments evenly and neatly
A large variety of face masks are available, both over the counter and in salons. Face
masks can be made out of many different natural ingredients, and there is a huge
Nourishing Refining choice of prepared or ready-mixed masks. They can be divided into two categories.

Clay masks
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

ACTIONS Paraffin
OF A FACE Peel-off wax
MASK masks

Peeling Soothing
SETTING NON-SETTING
FACE MASKS
MASKS MASKS
Cleansing

Biological
Actions of a face mask
masks Warm
Thermal oil mask
masks

Types of face mask

Masks can have different actions depending upon their formulation.

The choice of mask depends on accurate skin analysis and knowledge of the effects
of the basic mask ingredients.
Some masks come already mixed and some need mixing – generally the pre-
prepared types tend to be more expensive. The ones that need mixing require more
skill and knowledge of the ingredients and proportions, but the basic ingredients can
be purchased in bulk and stored.
Natural ingredients can also be used as a face mask and provide great variety and fun!

Properties of face masks

They should be smooth and free from gritty particles and unpleasant odours. In
powder form, they should be easily dispersed in water to produce a paste.
They should be easily removed from the face after use without causing discomfort.
They must be harmless to the skin and non-toxic.

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 Practical skills

Contra-indications to the application of face masks include:

skin disorders and diseases
excessively dry or sensitive skin
loose, crepey skin
cuts and abrasions
recent scar tissue.
Note: Clients who suffer from claustrophobia may prefer
a non-setting mask.
Materials required for a face mask treatment include:
bowls
spatulas
mask brush – flat and sanitised

Unit B4
damp cotton wool
headband
tissues
skin tonic
moisturiser

Provide facial skincare treatment

couch roll
client record card
scissors for eye pads. Masks can be used on the body too

Clay masks
Clays can be classed as natural ingredients because they are found in the earth.
They are good at drawing out impurities and deep cleansing. Some can be quite
stimulating and are good for improving the circulation; others are mild and soothing
on the skin. The key is to know which ingredients are suitable for which skin type.

Fuller’s earth face mask application Fuller’s earth face mask Removing a Fuller’s earth face mask

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Skin type Clay powder Benefits Mixed with

Dry Calamine (a pink Contains zinc carbonate to soothe the Rose water, orange flower water (or distilled water
powder) skin and calm down a high colour for sensitive skin)

Magnesium carbonate Refines and softens the skin, mildly A couple of drops of vegetable oil, almond oil or
(a white powder) astringent glycerol can be added

Greasy Fuller’s earth (a grey/ Deep cleansing Distilled water with a drop of witch hazel if required
green powder) Witch hazel is not suitable for a sensitive, greasy
skin as it can be quite stimulating

Sulphur (a pale yellow Drying action so can be used on Distilled water with a drop of witch hazel if required
powder) individual blemishes

Normal Magnesium carbonate Refines and softens the skin, mildly Mix with equal proportions of rose water, orange
(balanced) (a white powder) astringent flower water or witch hazel
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Calamine (a pink Contains zinc carbonate to soothe the Mix with equal proportions of rose water, orange
powder) skin and calm down a high colour flower water or witch hazel

Fuller’s earth (a grey/ Deep cleansing; not suitable for Mix with equal proportions of rose water, orange
green powder) sensitive skin as it can be quite flower water or witch hazel
stimulating

Combination Follow the dry/normal skin for cheek areas and greasy skin for T-zone skin, depending upon the severity of each area

Active ingredients
A clay mask needs to be mixed with active ingredients to turn the powder into a liquid
paste. The liquids are selected to complement the skin type and mask to be used –
they reinforce the action of the mask.
Rose water gives a mild toning effect, which increases the toning action of a
Think about it
mask. Made from rose petals. Recommended for dry, normal and mature skin
Always check your own posture and types.
position for both mask application
Orange flower water gives a stimulating, tonic effect. This is natural plant extract
and massage techniques – your
from the fruit of the tree.
position should minimise fatigue and
the risk of injury. If you have been Citrus dulcis is very fragrant. Recommended for normal, dry and mature skin
sitting when giving the massage, types.
you may wish to get up and apply Witch hazel has a drying, stimulating effect, so is contra-indicated on fine
the mask from the front, facing the sensitive skins; it is much better suited to greasy or combination skins. It is made
client, instead of stretching over and from the dried leaves and bark of the hamamelis virginiana tree. It has a tissue-
getting backache. firming action on the skin.
Almond oil can be used on dehydrated or neglected younger skins or on the
more mature skin. A natural oil obtained from the kernels of the seeds of whole
almonds, it improves the condition of the skin.
Distilled water is ordinary water that has had the chemicals, such as magnesium
bicarbonate or calcium carbonate, removed from it. These can be removed by
boiling the water or chemically removed by water softeners.
Calamine lotion is a liquid which contains zinc carbonate to soothe and heal the
skin. Iron oxide produces the pink colouring.

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 Practical skills

Skin type Recipe Time on face

Normal 1 part kaolin 8–12 minutes

1 part Fuller’s earth
Mix with water and a few drops of witch hazel to form a smooth, thin
paste

Dry 1 part kaolin 10–15 minutes

1 part magnesium carbonate
Mix with rose water or orange flower water to form a smooth, thin paste

Oily Fuller’s earth 5–15 minutes

Mix with witch hazel to form a smooth paste

Sensitive 1 part calamine 5–10 minutes

1 part magnesium carbonate
Mix with rose water to form a smooth paste

Unit B4
Mask type Recipe Time on face

Sulphur mask (for acne) 1

2tsp Epsom salts Apply over gauze, leave for 15
1 tsp oatmeal minutes, keeping warm with
1 tsp magnesium carbonate infrared lamp
1 tsp precipitated sulphur
Mix with hot water to form a paste

Provide facial skincare treatment

Stimulating mask (for 6 parts magnesium carbonate 5–15 minutes
open pores, capillaries 2 parts fuller’s earth
and contracting the Mix with rose water or almond oil according to the moisture content of the
tissues) skin

Astringent mask (to dry 6 parts magnesium carbonate Apply over gauze
an oily skin) 1 part calamine Apply one coat until almost
Pinch of alum dry, then apply second coat
Mix with witch hazel 10 minutes

Think about it
The setting times for all types of masks, including paraffin wax, are to be used as
a general guide only, and you should go by the client response and how the skin
reacts to the mask ingredients – this is why it is important never to leave the client
unattended. Mask setting depends upon many variable factors: how active the
ingredients are, how warm the room is, how hot the client is, what skin type the client
has, if the skin is particularly sensitive and even hormone fluctuations (which often
affect body temperature). Always judge by looking at the skin, asking the client and
remove the mask immediately if you think the skin is reacting.

Peel-off masks
Peel-off masks are gel or latex based. (Paraffin wax masks also come into the peel-
off category, although they are classed as non-setting.) Because perspiration cannot
escape from the skin’s surface, moisture is forced back into the epidermis. Some peel-
off masks also create heat, so could come under the thermal category.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Gel masks are purchased as a ready-made suspension containing starches, gums

Think about it
or gelatine, to allow the correct consistency. Synthetic non-biological resins are
A gel mask does adhere to the commonly used as well. The mask is applied over the skin. When it makes contact
facial hair and can be painful during it immediately begins to dry. It can be peeled off over the face as a whole facial
removal, rather like a plaster coming mould when sufficient technique has been mastered. The gel mask can be used
off! If the client has a lot of facial on most skin types, depending on the ingredients used, so check with individual
hair, offer an alternative mask. manufacturer’s instructions.
A latex mask is an emulsion of latex and water. The water evaporates leaving a
rubber film to form the mask. Alternatives are synthetic PVC resins. These have a
firming, tightening effect on the skin and can be used on a dry or mature skin.

Biological and natural masks

Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

Work an exfoliant mask into the skin using Remove mask thoroughly with warm water and sponges
small circular motions

These include the following:

Fruit extracts, e.g. avocado mashed to a smooth paste. Action: helps stabilise
the skin’s pH and acid mantle.
Herbal and vegetable, e.g. cucumber sliced and placed over the skin. Action:
calming or astringent effect.
Biological, e.g. natural yoghurt applied in bought state. Action: refines the skin’s
texture, helps rid skin of waste, counteracts possible infection.
Egg mask – with almond oil for dry skin or lemon for oily skin.
Honey mask – has a softening effect on dehydrated or mature skin.

Warm oil masks

The skin is cleansed, and a piece of gauze is soaked in warm olive or almond oil.
Eye pads are placed over the eyes, and the gauze is carefully put on to the face. An
infrared lamp is placed in position for 10–20 minutes. The distance of the lamp is
determined prior to application to suit the client’s skin type.
The time of the treatment will depend upon the client’s skin tolerance and how hot
they get, whether the skin starts to show erythema and client preference.
Natural cucumber mask

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 Practical skills

Risk assessment for warm oil equipment

Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 71–86, for a complete discussion of risk assessment.
Hazard: only look for hazards that you could reasonably expect to result in
significant harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following
examples as a guide.
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead)
• Burning of equipment (through light bulb burning out)
• Burns to skin (lamp too close to skin, left on too long, treatment not timed)
• Ejection of bulb (hot bulb falling on to skin, not screwed in properly, lamp
should not be directly over skin)
• Electricity (e.g. poor wiring)

Unit B4
• Manual handling (outer casing is hot and will burn if towel is not used for
protection)
• Falling machinery (if supporting arm is not screwed in properly)
• Contamination (from brushes and equipment not sufficiently sterilised)
• Cross-infection (if possible contra-indications are ignored)

Provide facial skincare treatment

Indications for use
Crepey, finely lined skin
Premature ageing
Dehydration or dry skin
Younger skin as a preventative measure
It is important to prepare the client and couch adequately to protect all areas.

Effects
It cleanses and aids desquamation.
It increases smoothness, softness and elasticity.
As the mask works on heat penetration, the skin will absorb cosmetic preparations
more easily, so make-up should be avoided.
Massage oil into the skin after application for maximum benefit. Ensure toning and
moisturising is thorough without overstretching or over touching the skin.
The client should be advised that the skin might have an uneven appearance directly
after application for 3–4 hours.

Paraffin wax mask treatments

Preparation
A small amount of sterilised paraffin wax should be poured into a small, clean bowl
lined with foil. (Wax heaters may be too large to be mobile.) The working temperature
is 49°C.
The wax treatment may be applied within the facial routine in place of a setting
mask. Disposable paper should cover towels for protection.

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Application
Eye pads are put in place. Wax should be applied in a firm build-up over the neck,
cheeks, chin, nose and forehead, using a small brush. The client should have
complete confidence in the treatment and your presence so she can relax.
Wax must be applied to a clean skin that is free from oil, cream, etc.
The protective band should be checked to avoid soiling.
The mask is applied as a thin, even film over the face and neck with a brush or
spatula.
Eyes, nostrils and mouth areas must be avoided.
The application must be accomplished quickly and neatly.
Note: A combination skin condition may require the application of two or more masks
to suit the different areas.
Depending upon the skin type, time may vary between 10 and 20 minutes. This will
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

depend upon the skin’s reaction and client tolerance to the ingredients – do not let
the mask dry on for too long as it will be very difficult to remove.
Remove the eye pads, gently slide the fingers under the edges of the mask, place the
hands under the mask at the throat, pulling the mask up a little at a time and taking
care that any bits of mask are stuck to the main bulk. Pressure toning with water may
be suitable, but usually it is best to leave this.

Risk assessment for paraffin wax equipment

Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 71–86, for a complete discussion of risk assessment.
Hazard: only look for hazards that you could reasonably expect to result in
significant harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following
examples as a guide.
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead)
• Burning of equipment (through low wax level in the tank)
• Burns to skin (from not testing wax temperature first on self)
• Ejection of materials (spitting hot wax)
• Electricity (e.g. poor wiring)
• Manual handling (spillage possible if moving when in liquid form)
• Falling machinery (if not securely positioned on a trolley)

Effects
Natural perspiration cleans the skin.
Circulation is improved.
Dead cells are removed and desquamation is improved.
Elasticity, smoothness and softness of texture are increased.
Removes cellular matter.
Moisturises the skin.
There is a local increase in temperature.

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 Practical skills

Indications
Dry, dehydrated skin
Mature skin, where regeneration is needed without overstimulation
Crepey, finely lined skin
Uneven-textured skin (unstable pH) to promote desquamation and refine texture
Seborrhoea conditions, to remove oily blockages and surface adhesions

Contra-indications
Highly nervous, tense clients, or those suffering from claustrophobia
Extreme vascular conditions
Sepsis, skin infection and irritation

Client preparation

Unit B4
The client should be prepared as for cleansing.
Hair and clothing should be well protected.
The face should then be cleansed to remove all make-up.
After deciding on the formula, the powder ingredients are placed in a bowl and
mixed to a smooth paste by gradually adding the liquid.

Provide facial skincare treatment

Basic mask formulation
As every facial diagnosis differs slightly, no formulation can be assumed to be
Think about it
suitable for all skin conditions. No rules can apply in mask therapy due to the variety When you have finished the client’s
of mask products and the different actions they are capable of producing. Observation treatments always check that the
and client discussion regarding tolerance to the mask will increase your knowledge of client is satisfied with the results and
the skin’s reaction to certain ingredients. that they meet the agreed treatment
plan. Provide a hand mirror so the
Final tips for face masks client can see just how clean and
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. fresh the skin has become.

Always use the mask that complements the products being used, e.g. René
Guinot or Clarins or whichever range the salon is using.
Always do a thorough facial analysis to be able to decide the correct mask for the
client.

Provide aftercare advice

In this outcome you will learn about:
• g iving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
• giving the clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs

After a facial it is important to recognise that the immediate aftercare is as important

as the long-term aftercare if maximum benefit is to be gained from the salon
treatment. Much of this information can be found in Unit G18 Promote additional
products or services to clients. Read that unit for tips on how to promote additional
services and give accurate information.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Giving suitable advice and recommendations

Always talk through the aftercare with your client. The client should leave the salon
knowing exactly what to do to help the skin and to reinforce the benefits of the salon
treatment.

Immediate aftercare to avoid contra-actions

The skin has been deep cleansed, stimulated and nourished. No aftercare is needed
except to leave it alone. Avoid picking, squeezing pimples or touching the area.
Avoid the temptation to apply make-up for 12 hours, where possible.
Evening cleansing is not necessary, but if the client prefers, a light cleanse, tone
and moisture may be recommended.
Suitable and compatible homecare products should be recommended. These will
complement the work of the therapist in the salon.
Explain to clients that while it is unlikely that contra-actions will develop after a
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

facial, they should avoid any overstimulation and further heat treatments. If a
reaction is going to occur, it will usually be a reaction to a cream used while the
facial is going on, not afterwards.
Highly perfumed products should be avoided.
No depilation (hair removal) should take place after a facial.
If any rash, irritation or itching occurs, suggest putting a cool flannel to the area.
Remove the offending product from the skin with damp cotton wool, and apply a
light calamine lotion to soothe the skin.

Long-term and homecare advice

Regular use of homecare products will help the skin.
Regular facials will help to regulate a problem skin; timings and intervals are a
personal decision between the therapist and client and may depend on cost.
Future treatments may be discussed with a view to specialist help for specific
problems, such as facial steaming for comedone extraction, or regular paraffin
wax mask application for a dry skin condition.
Targeting a problem and then giving intensive treatments to help that condition is
very rewarding. The client is pleased and the therapist has job satisfaction.
A treatment plan should make allowances for timing intervals, the cost involved
and how convenient it is for the client to get to the salon.
Give the client a price list and all relevant information for present and future
treatments with you.
Think about it
Give your client accurate information about additional products and services. Refer
Your workstation may be shared by
to Unit G18, pages 113–15.
other therapists. Most salons have
a waxing area, a facial area and a
body treatment section, so if your
next client is in the waxing room, you
have to leave your facial station clean
for another therapist to use. Would
you like to inherit a messy work area
from another therapist?

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 Practical skills

A client leaving the salon in a relaxed and satisfied state is very rewarding, but your
work is not yet over. There are important details to complete, which are as much a
part of your job role as everything else that you do. These include completing client
records accurately. Take time to fill out all parts of the record card:
Were there any reactions during the treatment that will affect the future treatment
plan?
Did the client express any preferences or dislikes for massage movements,
products or mask?
Would you leave something out next time?
Did the client feel claustrophobic with eye pads on?
Were products purchased?
Finally, you must leave the work area and equipment ready for further treatments
(see page 265).

Unit B4
Frequently asked questions
Q What instructions should I give to a male client booking in for a facial?

A All treatments are private and confidential whether the client is male or female. Facial massage includes the upper back
and shoulders, so upper clothing will be removed but the chest will be covered with a towel to keep the client warm.
Advise the client to have as close a shave as possible on the morning of the treatment, to avoid dragging on the facial

Provide facial skincare treatment

hair. He should wear loose clothing to aid relaxation, such as a track suit or casual clothing rather than a formal suit.
Q What action should I take if I discover the client has a contra-indication to a facial treatment?

A If the contra-indication is an infection or inflammation, stop the treatment immediately, and suggest that the client sees
their GP. You must not make a diagnosis, only a recommendation that the client seek medical attention. If the contra-
indication is of a minor nature, simply avoid the area and adapt the treatment accordingly.
Q How would I recognise the signs or symptoms of skin damage?

A The skin ages prematurely causing breakdown of collagen and elastin, which supports the skin, and uneven
pigmentation can also occur. There may be contamination of the skin, clogged and blocked pores, irritation and a
tendency to comedones and allergic reactions. Skin damage causes dehydration and overactivity of the sebaceous
glands resulting in problems. The skin may be overstretched. Inappropriate products can cause comedones to form or an
oversensitive skin.
Q Why is it important to complete client records accurately?

A To record relevant details to be able to contact the client if necessary; to provide full and accurate information which will
ensure client safety; to ensure consistency of treatment regardless of who performs the treatment; to record the number
of treatments in a course and the date of each one; to record changes to the treatment programme or contra-actions
if they occur; to record the progress of the condition or treatment success; to safeguard the salon and the therapists
against clients taking legal action for damages or negligence.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Check your knowledge

1 A skin analysis should be carried out: 6 The most suitable cleanser for dry skin is:
a) after a superficial cleanse a) cream cleanser
b) before removing make-up b) milk cleanser
c) after the deep cleanse c) wash-off cleanser
d) after the face mask. d) baby lotion.

2 When in the facial would you use a facial warming 7 A contra-action to a face mask would be:
treatment such as hot towels or steaming? a) milia
a) After the cleanse b) a rash or itching
b) After the mask c) blackheads
c) After the massage d) keloid tissue.
d) After extraction
8 Moisturisers are designed to:
Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment

3 The skin type which has oily and dry areas is known a) rehydrate the skin
as: b) make the skin feel nice
a) unusual skin c) prepare the skin for make-up application
b) problem skin d) fill up all the wrinkles.
c) combination skin
9 Face masks should be of a smooth consistency so
d) sensitive skin.
that they:
4 Facial massage is carried out: a) can be applied evenly
a) after a deep cleanse b) look nice on the skin
b) after a face mask c) set quickly
c) after coffee break d) retain moisture.
d) after eye make-up removal.
10 Collagen and elastin are part of:
5 Massage is good for the skin because: a) the epidermis
a) it helps bring oxygen to the skin surface b) the dermis
b) it soothes the nerve endings c) the subcutaneous tissue
c) it smoothes out wrinkles d) the hair follicle.
d) it makes you thinner in the face.

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 Practical skills

Getting ready for assessment

• Simulation is not allowed for any performance evidence within this unit.
• You must practically demonstrate in your everyday work that you have met the standard for improving and maintaining
facial skin condition.
• Your assessor will observe your performance on at least three occasions, each involving a different client.
• From the range statement, you must practically demonstrate that you:
have used all consultation techniques
have carried out at least one of the necessary actions
have carried out treatments on two of the three skin conditions
have used all types of facial products, massage mediums, massage techniques, masks and provided all
types of advice
have used all types of equipment.

Unit B4
• It is likely most evidence of your performance will be gathered from the observations made by your assessor, but you
may be required to produce other evidence to support your performance if your assessor has not been present.

Provide facial skincare treatment

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M08_NVQBT_L02_6578_UB4.indd 326 24/2/10 11:51:42
 Unit B5

Enhance the
appearance of
eyebrows and

Unit GH8
lashes

What you will learn

B5.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of
working when enhancing the appearance of
eyebrows and eyelashes
B5.2 Consult, plan and prepare for the treatment
with clients
B5.3 Shape eyebrows
B5.4 Tint eyebrows and lashes
B5.5 Apply artificial eyelashes
B5.6 Provide aftercare advice

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
This unit focuses on ways to enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes by
carrying out a range of treatments.
Each of the outcomes can be either combined or carried out independently to meet
the requirements of the client.
Some therapists view this section as ‘small treatments’, but it should not be
undervalued. Clients can instantly see an improvement with an eyebrow shape,
eyelash tint or application of artificial lashes. Eye treatments can be easily slotted
into other treatments: for example, added into the facial while the tint is processing.
Remember to include these ‘extras’ in the cost.
Benefits for the client:
fairly quick treatment (depending on the service)
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

immediate result and effect

excellent treatment for clients who wear glasses
minimum pain from shaping.
Benefits for the therapist
easy service to fit into salon day
clients find immediate result pleasing
excellent opportunity to promote other services
enhances wedding, prom and seasonal promotions.

My story
The value of small treatments
My name is Holly. When I first started working
in a salon I did not like having only the small
eye treatments in my column, especially as my
colleagues had larger treatments and could earn
more commission from the sale of additional
products, for example after a facial. However, my
manager encouraged me to use the time with the
clients to discuss and introduce other treatments that
the salon offered. I found from this that a number of
clients booked in not only for further lash and brow
maintenance treatments but also for treatments we
had discussed. I now value these small treatments
as a time to discuss other services with clients.

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 Practical skills

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working when enhancing the
appearance of eyebrows and eyelashes
In this outcome you will learn about:
• setting up the work area to meet legal, hygiene and treatment requirements
•  aking sure that environmental conditions are suitable for the client and the treatment
m
• ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and appearance meets accepted industry and organisational requirements
• ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned using the correct methods
• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to eyelash and eyebrow treatments
• maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices throughout the treatment
• positioning equipment and materials for ease and safety of use

Unit B5
• ensuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue and the risk of injury while working
• maintaining the client’s modesty and privacy at all time
• disposing of waste materials safely and correctly
• ensuring that the treatment is cost-effective and is carried out within a commercially viable time
• leaving the work area in a condition suitable for further treatments
• ensuring the client’s records are up to date, accurate, easy to read and signed by the client and practitioner.

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

For advice on safe and effective methods of working practice, refer to individual treatments:
Shape eyebrows – page 337
Tint eyebrows and lashes – page 339
Apply artificial eyelashes – page 347.
Refer also to Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment, and Professional basics, pages
35–47.

Disposing of waste materials safely and correctly

Remember to dispose of all waste materials in the correct bin – if you have drawn blood
when eyebrow shaping, the tissue and cotton wool are classed as contaminated material and
should be put into a bin liner, which then goes into the yellow bin, to be taken away by your
local contractor. Refer to Professional basics, ‘You, Your Client and the Law’, page 48, for the
legal aspects of your actions. Tint brushes, dishes, etc. can be cleaned and ready for use, if
reusable. If the tinting brush is a disposable one, put it in a bin with a liner – tint will stain
anything it comes into contact with that is porous, including hands and overalls.

Ensuring the treatment is cost-effective

It makes financial sense only to prepare as much product as you are going to use: anything
more will oxidise and be thrown away, which is money wasted. Make up the correct quantities
of tint, not the whole tube. Be careful with cotton wool and tissues as if you were paying for
them out of your own money – wasting products and consumables can cost several pounds
each day, so it soon mounts up. Be cost-effective with your time, and remember that you will
have other customers waiting for you. Skill is essential, but so is time management:
it may be possible for you to fit in, say, enamel application on the same client, while her tint
is processing.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Leaving the work area suitable for further

treatments
Always leave your working area as you would wish to find it. Restock tissues or cotton
wool, if you have used the last of them, or at least inform the person whose job it is
to restock the workstations. Put lids back on pots to prevent products drying out, or
oxidising.
Remember that your next client may not be at that couch – you may have to go into
the waxing area, or the massage room, and it is not professional to leave a mess for
another therapist to tidy up.

Ensuring the client’s records are up to date and

accurate
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

While waiting for the tint to develop or the perm to process, you can sit with your
client and update her client record card. Although she will have her eyes closed, you
can talk to her about aftercare, product use, and caring for her lashes at home, as
well as filling in the details of the day’s treatments. Now is a good time to check that
her address and other personal details are correct, and add any purchases she will be
taking home with her.

Consult, plan and prepare for the

treatment with clients
In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing consultation techniques in a polite and friendly • c orrectly performing a sensitivity test on a suitable area of the client’s
manner to determine the client’s treatment plan skin according to manufacturers’ instructions and organisational
• ensuring that informed and signed parental or guardian requirements and recording the results
consent is obtained for minors prior to any treatment • ensuring client advice is given without reference to a specific
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout medical condition and without causing undue alarm and concern
the treatment for minors under the age of 16 • taking the necessary action in response to any identified contra-
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the indications
client prior to carrying out the treatment • informing the client in a tactful way if there is an adverse reaction to
• asking your client appropriate questions to identify if the sensitivity test and they cannot be treated
they have any contra-indications to the treatment • agreeing the treatment and outcomes that are acceptable to your
• accurately recording your client’s responses to client and meet their needs
questioning • selecting suitable equipment and materials for the treatment plan
• encouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points based on the outcomes of the sensitivity test
• helping the client into a safe, comfortable and relaxed • ensuring your client’s clothing, hair and accessories are effectively
position for the treatment protected or removed.

Using consultation techniques and obtaining

consent
As with all treatments, you will need to carry out a consultation, to check for any
contra-indications that may prevent the treatment taking place and to discuss the

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 Practical skills

client’s requirements. These contra-indications apply to all eye treatments. (For

information on consultation techniques and contra-indications, refer to Professional
basics, pages 31 and 35.)
You will need to ensure that the consultation process does not discriminate against
clients from different cultures, religious backgrounds or who have disabilities or illness
unless any of these areas would deem the treatment unsafe or inappropriate. For
example, you should avoid discussing religious topics with clients. You may also
Conjunctivitis
need to research illnesses and disabilities to ensure that your client receives the best
possible treatment and service.
As with any treatment, if the client is under 16 years of age, signed parental or
guardian consent needs to be obtained before treatment can commence and the
parent or guardian must be present during the treatment. Every other client would be
required to sign to confirm that contra-indications have been checked and that they
confirm the treatment plan.

Unit B5
Identifying contra-indications to treatment Stye

During the consultation, you will need to find out if your client has any contra-
indications to the treatment by asking her questions and doing a visual check of the
area to be treated. Remember to record your client’s response to the questions asked.
You should also look out for a range of conditions that will contra-indicate treatment.

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

These are the main conditions to look out for:
Conjunctivitis – this is a nasty eye condition. The eyelids are red and sore, with
itching. Mainly caused by bacteria present. It can be irritated by a virus or an
allergy. Eczema

Stye – this is a small boil at the base of the eyelash follicle. It is raised, sore and
red, and there may be considerable swelling in the area.
Blepharitis – an infection of the lid causing inflammation of the eye, which will
look red and sore. Depending on the severity of the condition, you may need to
advise the client to see their GP before eye treatments are undertaken.
Viral infections – this could include a cold.
Bruising to the area.
Psoriasis
Reaction to a sensitivity test for tinting, and applying artificial lashes.
You should also be aware of some other conditions:
Hypersensitivity – if a client has hypersensitive eyes, it is very important to use
hypoallergenic products when cleansing the eyes and ensure a patch test is
carried out before the products are used.
Active eczema or psoriasis – the area should not be treated, especially if the skin
is open or weeping when it is vulnerable to infection and the condition can be
spread. Bruising to the eye area
Common cold – easily recognised: runny or blocked nose, dry skin around the
nose, sneezing, watery eyes, headache. Key terms
Hay fever – an irritation of the nasal membrane resulting in watery eyes, runny
Blepharitis – an infection of the
nose and sneezing. eyelid causing inflammation of
the eye.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Watery eyes – an irritating condition, in which the eye area becomes moist, which
Key terms
may make it difficult for the client to have eye treatments.
Contact dermatitis – a localized
Recent operations – a general rule of thumb is to wait six months before treating
rash or irritation of the skin caused
an area with scar tissue. However, if it is a minor operation, and you have your
by contact with a foreign substance.
client’s and her GP’s approval, go ahead, but avoid the area itself.
Latex – a natural rubber substance
Bruising to eye – easy to recognise, a bruise shows as blue/black and yellow skin
often found in protective gloves.
colouring. Do not treat a bruised eye.
Nitrile – a synthetic rubber
substitute that is more durable than
Contact dermatitis – this condition can affect both the client and the therapist.
latex; can be used as an alternative You will need to check whether the client is allergic to latex as gloves are worn
for therapists or clients with a latex in all eye treatments. If the client has an allergy, then powder-free vinyl or nitrile
allergy. gloves should be worn. A sensitivity test should be carried out prior to tinting
to ensure that allergic reactions and dermatitis do not occur. If therapists have
Powder-free – some protective
skin contact with tint and peroxide, it is possible that they could develop contact
gloves contain a powder coating that
is used to minimise perspiration and
dermatitis, so safe working practices should be adopted.
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

make gloves easier to put on; others Remember that it is not your place as a therapist to mention specific conditions to
contain no such powder and are your client as you are not medically trained. You can recommend that your client see
branded ‘powder-free’. their GP over a condition, but do not name the condition, or offer any diagnosis or
cure. Ensure advice is given without causing undue alarm or concern to the client.
Think about it
It is very easy to cross-infect the eyes, The client’s treatment plan
so care must be taken at all times.
During the consultation you will gather the information you need to recommend the
When carrying out any treatment on
most appropriate treatment plan for your client. Do make sure that you agree all
the eyes ensure that you use a fresh
aspects of the treatment plan with the client before you begin, and encourage them
piece of cotton wool, cotton bud for
to ask questions to clarify any points they do not fully understand.
each eye, and make sure that your
tweezers are sterile when transferring Planning the eyebrow shape
from one eye to the next. Eyebrow shaping is the removal of superfluous hair to enhance the shape of the
natural brow. Superfluous hair is the term used if hair growth is normal but the client
feels it is unattractive. When shaping the eyebrows you need to plan the treatment
carefully, because it cannot be undone. Discuss the needs with your client before
commencing the treatment. You may have very different ideas.
Important tools for shaping are a mirror and an eyebrow brush.

Facts about eyebrows

Every natural eyebrow is different in shape, hair type and colour. As well as this, to
achieve the most flattering effect, you need to consider both facial and eye types.
Most hairs on the brows are terminal hairs (refer to Related anatomy and physiology,
An eyebrow
brush page 246). The terminal hairs of the brows, unlike other terminal hairs, are usually

Key term
Terminal hair – strong hair which
contains pigment; found on the
scalp, eyebrows, under the arms and
Eyebrows differ in shape,
pubic areas. hair type and colour

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 Practical skills

short in length but are still there for protection. The reason we have hairs on the
brows and surrounding the eyes is to stop debris entering the eyes and to keep germs
out. The hairs are also there to protect the eyes from excessive light damage.

Eyebrow shapes
It is recommended that the normal eyebrow should look like the wings of a bird in
flight: thicker at the inner corner of the eye, tapering to an arch and narrowing at the
end of the brow. As the eyebrows frame the face, they should be in balance with the
rest of the facial features.

Unit B5
Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes
The following indicate the effect of shapes.

Angular shape
This shape can define a round face. Enhance this shape with shading and contouring
of the eye make-up for elegance.

Angular shape
Rounded shape Angular shape
Suitable for clients with large eyes or a wide forehead, a rounded shape can enhance
the client’s eyes. The eyebrow line should follow the frontal bone and be shaped to a
taper.

Arched shape
Sometimes referred to as ‘sweeping’, this shape is very flattering on most clients.
Rounded shape
It gives width and expression to the eye. It opens the eye and can help to balance a Rounded shape
prominent nose or a large mouth. An arched shape can also be used to detract from
a high forehead.

Arched shape

Arched shape

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Low arched shape

This shape works well for a client with a low or small forehead by giving the illusion
of more length. It is sometimes referred to as a straight shape.

Wide-set eyes
If a client has wide-set eyes, extend the eyebrow to inside the corner of the eye.
Low arched shape
Low arched shape
Other factors that may influence the shape of the brows.
The natural shape of the brows. If the client has been shaping her own brows,
it may be necessary to let them grow for a short time before shaping them
professionally; in the meantime, stray hairs can be removed to keep them neat.
Client age. More mature clients might have some coarse hairs, which can be
long, white or discoloured. These can be removed, provided that doing so does
Wide-set eyes
Wide-set eyes
not alter the brow line or leave bald patches. Ideally, the brow should be of
medium thickness. Too thick, and it can give an older appearance. Thin eyebrows
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

give a severe appearance.

Fashion trends. Each season sees new fashion trends, which have an effect on
eyebrow shapes and eye make-up. This should also be considered before shaping
the brows.

Other approaches which may be suitable for the client

Semi-permanent make-up. This should be applied only by professionals. Pigment
is applied to add colour to the brows, e.g. to disguise a bald area.
Hair transplants. These are already available in the USA for clients with sparse
brows.
Artificial individual eyebrow hairs. These are applied in the same way as individual
eyelashes and are not permanent.

Measuring the eyebrows to decide length

Once you have carried out the consultation and discussed the client’s needs, you
need to measure the length of the brows. Here are some points to help you when
deciding the correct length and shape for your client.
Place an orange stick in a straight line from the side of the nose to the inner
Think about it corner of the eye. This is where the eyebrow should begin.
You can only work with the Place an orange stick from the side of the nose to the outer corner of the eye. This
eyebrow’s natural shape so you may is where the eyebrow should end.
need to discourage your client from
Ask the client to look straight ahead. Hold the stick vertically so that it runs
expecting unrealistic outcomes.
through the lateral edge of the eyes. This is where the highest point of the arch
should be.
Hold the stick horizontally and it should more or less connect the beginning and
end of the eyebrow.
These are useful guidelines. With practice you will learn to train your eye.

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 Practical skills

Line up the orange stick with the Line up the orange stick with the edge The arch of the eyebrow should match
corner of the mouth and the edge of of the mouth and the outer corner of the middle of the pupil. This is your
the nose: the beginning of the eyebrow the eye: the end of the eyebrow should shape guideline; any stray hairs outside
should start where the orange stick be where the orange stick rests on the the shape can be plucked out.
rests on the skin skin

Unit B5
Selecting suitable equipment and materials
This will depend upon the results of the sensitivity test, consultation and the
treatment being undertaken.

Equipment required for eyebrow shaping

Tweezers (rounded, slanted, pointed)

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

Damp cotton wool
Orange stick
Antiseptic solution
Aftercare solution
Disposable gloves (refer to your professional body for guidance or visit the Habia
website)
Tissues
Using spring-loaded automatic
Bin and bin liner
tweezers
Sterilising dish
Mirror
Eyebrow brush

Tweezers
There are two types of tweezers used for eyebrow shaping.
Think about it
It is important that all tweezers are
Automatic tweezers ready for use, and they should be
These are designed to remove the bulk of excess hair. They have a spring-loaded sterilised between clients, either in an
action. autoclave or in a sterilising solution.
It is important that this is carried out
Manual as blood and tissue fluids can be
These are used to remove stray hairs and accentuate the shape of the drawn during treatment, and these
brow. Various ends are available – slanted ends are generally considered could cause contamination. Any
tissue fluid drawn should be disposed
to be the best for eyebrow shaping.
of, in accordance with health
and safety regulations, to prevent
For equipment and materials for eyelash and eyebrow tinting, see page 343, and for
contamination.
application of artificial lashes, see page 350.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Protecting the client: personal protective

If the treatment requires that you use equipment for eyebrow and eyelash treatments
gloves, check with the client before
It is advisable when carrying out treatments around the eye that you wear gloves, so
treatment starts whether she has a
as to protect you and your client from infection and contamination. Blood spots may
latex allergy. Any allergy should be
be produced when shaping – this is a normal reaction to tweezing or waxing of the
recorded on the client record card.
brows.
There are several different types of protective gloves available. Traditionally, gloves
are made of latex, but a number of people have developed allergies to latex. If you
or a client shows signs of redness or irritation when in contact with latex gloves, an
alternative made of either vinyl or nitrile that are powder-free should be used.
Care should be taken when putting on and removing gloves to avoid cross-
contamination. Gloves should be removed by turning inside out and disposed of in
the contaminated waste bin.
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

Think about it Preparing the client

Be sure to clarify the shape required After completing the consultation:
with the client before commencing Secure client’s hair with headband or turban.
any treatment. If the client is nervous,
Place towel or tissue or cape over the client’s chest.
explain the procedure and reassure
her as you progress. Position client comfortably; couch or chair should be slightly elevated.
Remove all accessories, e.g. earrings. Clients who wear contact lenses may find
Details of shape, thickness, texture
and required shape should all be
treatment more comfortable if they remove them prior to treatment.
added to the client record card.
Risk assessment for eye treatments
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 73–86, for a complete discussion of risk assessment.
Hazards: only look for hazards that you could reasonably expect to result in
significant harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following
examples as a guide.
Think about it
All tinting and adhesive products that • Chemicals (e.g. eye damage from glue in the eye)
are used on the eyes are controlled • Allergies (allergic reaction to glue or, or tint)
by the Control of Substances Harmful • Cross-infections (blood spotting from the eyebrow shape)
to Health regulations (refer to
• Contact dermatitis (continued use of products without the protection of
Professional basics, page 54). These
suitable gloves can cause a reaction to the therapist’s hands which can be
regulations govern the correct use,
spread to other areas of the body if extreme sensitivity occurs)
storage and disposal of products.
Be sure that you always refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions when
using these products as incorrect use
and storage may harm the client or
Sensitivity testing
cause the treatment to be ineffective. For information on how to carry out a sensitivity test, see page 340.

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 Practical skills

Shape eyebrows
In this outcome you will learn about:
• c hecking the client’s understanding of the treatment prior to commencement and
discussing any areas that require clarification
• ensuring the eyebrow area is thoroughly cleansed and suitably prepared prior to the
treatment
• keeping the skin taut to minimise discomfort to the client
• ensuring that the hair is removed in the direction of the hair growth
• using suitable soothing products according to the needs of the client and
manufacturers’ instructions
• ensuring the finished shape is to the client’s satisfaction.

Procedure for eyebrow shaping

Unit B5
It is important that the client understands the treatment procedure and the shape is
discussed before the treatment commences. The therapist should check the shape at
regular intervals.
1 Remove all traces of make-up and clean the area with an appropriate cleanser.
Wipe with sanitising solution and prepare the area.

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

2 Inspect the treatment area to assess the amount of work required. Measure
shape (see page 334) and consult the client. A magnifying lamp can be used to
give maximum visibility.
3 Brush the brows into shape before you begin.
4 Open pores – it is often suggested that before you begin shaping, you should
place warm, damp cotton wool pads over the area. This relaxes hair follicles and
softens the eyebrow tissue, making hair removal easier.
5 To remove hairs, gently stretch the skin between your fingers and pluck out
the hairs in the direction in which they grow. Begin by removing the stray hairs
between the eyes. Hairs below the natural brow shape can then be tackled.
The few odd hairs that grow unevenly above the brow may also be removed,
provided they do not form part of the main eyebrow growth. If there are any
tough, spiky or white hairs, these can sometimes be removed without spoiling
the overall shape.

Placing hot cotton wool pads on the Stretching skin and tweezing near to The finished look should be clean and
brow opens the pores (step 4) the root will minimise discomfort tidy and open up the whole face.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

6 Consult the client as you work, ensure she has a hand mirror and consults with
Ensure all equipment is sterilised
you as you proceed.
and accessible
7 Place the removed hairs on a tissue placed at the side of the client, or held
wrapped around your fingers.
8 Periodically soothe the client’s brow with antiseptic, as this helps to remove any
Carry out consultation stray hairs.
9 When all the shaping is complete, place a dampened cotton wool soaked in
witch-hazel over the area to soothe, cool and remove excess erythema (for
Check for contra-indications information on erythema, see page 339).
10 Give aftercare advice and book the client’s next appointment.
If blood or tissue fluid is accidentally drawn during the treatment, the following steps
Discuss client requirements should be taken.
1 Apply pressure to the area with clean cotton wool soaked in sanitising solution.
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

2 Do not panic. Keep calm, and explain to the client so she is aware of the
problem.
Remove contact lenses if
necessary 3 Apply soothing solution to the area.
4 Dispose of waste carefully in accordance with health and safety regulations and
local by-laws.

Cleanse area An eyebrow re-shape may take up to half an hour and an eyebrow tidy up to
15 minutes. In all cases it would depend on the density of the hairs, shape required,
hair growth and the client requirements. Clients who visit the salon regularly often
have an eyebrow tidy as an integral part of their treatment plan. On average, an
Measure brows eyebrow tidy would be carried out every 4–6 weeks.

Aftercare
Pre-warm area Clients should be given the following aftercare advice when they have had an
eyebrow shape or tidy.
Cooling mild antiseptic products, e.g. witch hazel, should be applied.
Shape as required No make-up should be applied to the area for 12 hours, as the follicles are open
and infection may occur.
Stray regrowth hairs can be removed at intervals to prolong the effect.

Soothe area with suitable solution

Think about it
A nervous client may require eye pads or be advised to keep eyes shut. Heavy brows
should be gradually reduced over two or three visits to minimise discomfort and allow
Give aftercare advice the client to become accustomed to her new image.

Trouble-shooting eyebrow problems

Show client finished result Bare sparse brows
Fill in with pencil, using short strokes in the direction of the hair growth, and blend
with a brow brush. Ensure that the pencil is sharpened as you move from one eye to
Record details of treatment on the other, to prevent cross-infection.
client card
Eyebrow shaping

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 Practical skills

Stray hairs
Think about it
Remove any stray hairs with tweezers.
Your posture is important when
Thin brows carrying out a shape. Ensure that the
Instead of a pencil, try a shade of powder that matches the brow colour. Apply with client is at the correct height so that
a stiff brush, following the natural line, and ensure that you blend in well to prevent you can clearly see the hairs. You
the line looking harsh. This will create the illusion of doubling the thickness. may need to use a magnifier to help
you if the hairs are fair or white.
Unruly or thick brows
Long, unruly hairs should be trimmed. Hold the brows straight with a brow comb and
trim to the required length. To help the hairs to lie flat, use either a little hair gel or a Think about it
small amount of hairspray on a comb. Never spray directly on to the face.
Contra-actions usually take the
form of erythema to the area, but in

Tint eyebrows and lashes some cases blood spots occur and
sometimes swelling. You should try

Unit B5
to reduce the swelling before the
In this outcome you will learn about: client leaves the salon, by applying a
soothing antiseptic. In extreme cases,
• c onfirming the client’s understanding of the treatment prior to commencement and
a cold compress or ice should be
discussing any areas that require clarification
applied. All contra-actions should be
• ensuring the area is thoroughly cleansed and suitably prepared prior to the treatment
recorded on the client record card.
• effectively protecting the skin surrounding the area to be treated

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

• mixing tints to meet manufacturers’ instructions and client requirements
• minimising the spread of colour to the client’s skin, clothes and surrounding areas
during application Key term
• applying the product evenly and ensuring the product fully covers the hair to be Contra-action – an adverse
tinted physical reaction during or after the
• promptly removing the tint in the event of any contra-actions and applying a cold treatment. This should be recorded
water compress to soothe the eye on the record card.
• accurately timing the product development to meet the colouring characteristics of
the client and manufacturers’ instructions
• ensuring the treated hair is left free of product
• ensuring finished result is to the client’s satisfaction.

The benefits of tinting

Eyebrows help to emphasise facial expression and eyelashes frame the eyes.
Tinting may be carried out on clients with light-coloured brows and lashes to
define their appearance.
Brows and lashes can be tinted to complement hair colour.
Tinting can mean that coloured mascara need not be applied, which is good for
those who are allergic to it, or in the summer months when mascara is likely to
smudge if it is very hot.
Tinting is also ideal for clients who wear glasses or contact lenses.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

My story
No more smudges
My name is Zaida, and I’m a chef in a busy hotel.
Although my working environment is hot and steamy,
I like to wear a little make-up. I was finding that
whichever brand of mascara I used, by the end of
the day it had run. My friend suggested I had my
eyelashes tinted. I went to the local salon and I had
a tint test to ensure that I was not allergic to the
products. Two days later I had my lashes tinted – I
was delighted with the results. That was over two
years ago. Since then I have had my lashes and brows tinted regularly and for
my sister’s wedding I had an artificial lash application. I no longer have to put
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

up with smudged mascara!

Performing a sensitivity test

A sensitivity test should be carried out prior to tinting or the application of artificial
lashes with the product that you plan to use. A suitable area should be selected,
usually behind the ear or the crook of the elbow. An area nearest to the eye would be
the most suitable for a more accurate result.
Many professional associations now recommend that this test be carried out 24–48
hours prior to each treatment, even on a client who regularly has the treatment at the
salon. The client may have become sensitive to the product, or the salon may have
changed products and therefore the ingredients may be slightly different from the
ones used previously.
All tests should be recorded on the client record card with the date the test was
Patch test: cleansing the area first carried out and the results of the test. An allergic reaction would show as a red, itchy,
sore area. Treat with a cold compress and soothing cream. This reaction would mean
that the client is unsuitable for the treatment.
If the test is not carried out and a problem does occur, it is possible you could
invalidate your insurance policy. A test only takes a few minutes and can easily be
performed by the receptionist.

Method
Cleanse the area of the skin to be tested (behind the ear or the crook of the arm).
Mix the same make and colour of tint to be used with the manufacturer’s
recommended quantity of 10 per cent volume peroxide.
Apply the tint to the area selected with a brush, about the size of a ten pence
coin.
Allow to dry.
Patch test: applying the product
Ensure the client is aware that the tint should be left on the skin for 24 hours. If
no reaction occurs, then wash off.

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 Practical skills

If a reaction occurs, the tint should be removed immediately with water and a
Think about it
soothing lotion applied to the area.
Always note the date and the results
A reaction will be recognised by an itching, red-hot inflamed area. This should be
of patch test on the client record
treated with a soothing substance.
card. The details on the card should
include:
Precautions for lash and brow tinting • date of patch test
• products used
Discuss the client’s requirements with her prior to beginning the treatment.
• development time of the treatment
Ensure all equipment is clean and sterilised. • areas treated
Ensure all eye make-up is removed with a non-oily product. • contra-actions
Check for contra-indications. • aftercare.

Ensure client has removed contact lenses.

Ensure area is thoroughly cleansed.
Apply barrier cream to the skin around the eyes only and not to the hair to be

Unit B5
tinted, as the tint will not act. The barrier cream is used to prevent the tint
spreading beyond the area being treated. For your portfolio
Ensure the client keeps her eyes closed at all times when the tint is on the lashes
Carry out a skin sensitivity test for
to prevent tint from entering the eyes and causing irritation. As a therapist, you are
tint and the application of eyelash
responsible for giving your client full instructions. This is vital, especially when
adhesive. Record the date on your
treating nervous clients. client record card and note the result

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

Do not leave the client while the tint is processing. in 24 hours. Make a note of the
Complete details of the tint on the record card. make of product that you have used.

Ensure that the eyebrows are tinted prior to shaping, to avoid tint seeping into the
follicles, resulting in a reaction.

How colour works

The selected dye and hydrogen peroxide are mixed together to produce a chemical
reaction. When first applied to the hair, they enter the middle of the hair as small
particles, but, because of the chemical reaction, they swell. This swelling prevents
the colour from coming out when washed and so becomes permanent. This process is
Key terms
known as oxidation. The colour of the hair changes and this will remain until the hair Oxidation – chemical reaction that
grows or falls out. occurs when peroxide and dye are
mixed together.
Never mix the ingredients until you are ready to use them. Oxidation starts to occur
and the tint starts to work as soon as it is mixed, so if you prepare them too early the
product will not be able to enter the hair properly, resulting in poor colour.
Always replace caps on the tint and hydrogen peroxide as they will oxidise and future
results will be unsuccessful. When using two colours of tint, mix them together and
then add peroxide.

Choosing a tint
The skin around the eye is very thin and sensitive, therefore dyes designed for eyelash
and brow tinting have been specially formulated to avoid any eye or tissue reactions.
Any other type of dye or any hydrogen peroxide solution stronger than 10 per cent
dilution should not be used in this area. It is dangerous and may even cause blindness.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

The products used for eyelash and brow tinting are usually available as creams or
gels in basic colours of black, blue, brown and grey. These colours are mixed to form
variations in tone: for example, blue/black provides a darker colour.
The choice is a matter of personal preference and depends on:
the client’s overall skin type and hair colouring
the type of eye make-up usually worn
the age of the client.
As clients grow more mature, they lose a lot of natural colour from hair and eyes.
Brown or grey tints are preferable to black for producing a softer, more natural
effect. This is an example of when you need to be aware of the fact that the client’s
expectations may not be realistic. The client may expect a very dark finish or longer
Decant the barrier cream onto a
spatula and paint onto the skin eyelashes, where this may not be possible. It is therefore your responsibility to
surrounding the eyebrow to prevent explain to the client that certain expectations cannot or should not be achieved, due
accidental staining
to suitability. It is important to provide the client with sufficient professional advice
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

and emphasise that lash and brow treatments are designed to enhance the
natural features.
This applies to shaping and artificial lash application too. Expectations are realistic
Think about it
when they can be achieved with success and when the treatment is suitable for the
Although you will not be in contact client. The effect of tinting depends on the natural colour of the hair: for example,
with blood or tissue fluids during blond hair colour develops rapidly, usually in 5 minutes; red hair is more resistant
tinting, it may be advisable to wear
and development will take longer, perhaps 10 minutes; white hair will take slightly
protective gloves to prevent contact
longer to process, due to the lack of the pigment melanin. Make sure the colour you
with the tint, which may cause
choose gives a realistic natural effect.
dermatitis. This will also prevent
accidental staining of the fingers
when applying the tint. Preparing the client for tinting lashes and brows
Help the client into a comfortable, semi-reclined position and protect hair and
clothing.
Clean and tone the area to ensure that all grease and make-up is removed from
lashes and brows. If grease is left on the skin, a barrier will be created and the
tint will not take properly.
Protect the skin above the eyes with a barrier cream. Take care not to get any
barrier product on the lashes or brows that require tinting. Use a tipped orange
stick or cotton bud to apply the barrier cream to the skin above the eyes.
Key terms When applying the cream below the eyes, either stroke it directly onto the skin
Eye shield – used to protect the and position the eye shields on top, close to the base of the lashes, or coat the
eyes during a treatment; may be underneath surface of the shields with barrier cream and slide them into position.
made of paper or cotton wool.
Applying lash tint
Precautions should be taken to ensure that neither the tint nor the applicator
penetrates the eye. There should not be any problems provided:
the eye is well supported by gently holding the area
the tint is applied carefully
the lashes are not overloaded with tint
the client’s eyes are kept still.

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 Practical skills

Tinting – what you will need • Eye shields made from cotton wool or paper shields
• Selection of coloured tints
• Tinting equipment
• Hydrogen peroxide (usual 10 per cent volume, but
• Protective headband and towel
always check the manufacturer’s instructions)
• Couch roll to protect the work area
• Eye make-up remover (non-oily)
• Small non-metallic bowl for mixing tint (a metal one
• Cleanser and toner
would react with the hydrogen peroxide)
• Gloves
• Lined container for waste
• Barrier cream
• Sterile spatula
• Sterile applicator or tipped orange stick
• Clean water in the event of eye irrigation becoming
necessary
• Hand mirror
• Client record card
• Materials

Unit B5
• Damp cotton wool and tissues

Step by step eyelash tinting

1 After placing 2 While the lash
shields under the tint is developing you

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

eyes, begin to can tint the eyebrows
apply tint to lower if required
lashes, made up
to manufacturer’s
instructions. Ask the
client to close her
eyes, and apply tint
to the top lashes.
Cover the eyes

3 When processing 4 The finished

time has elapsed, eyelash tint defines
remove all traces of the lashes and
the tint enhances the eyes

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

1 Once the client has been correctly positioned and the make-up removed, mix the
Ensure all equipment is hygienic
correct colour of tint according to the manufacturer’s instructions. A guide is a
and close to hand
5 mm length of tint with 2–3 drops of hydrogen peroxide, mixed in a tinting bowl
with a disposable brush or orange stick to a smooth paste.
2 Remember, before applying the tint a barrier cream should be applied to prevent
Carry out a consultation (ensure a staining.
patch test has been carried out). 3 Ask the client to look upwards and cover the lower lashes with tint (if the client
Check for contra-indications has watery eyes, the lower lashes can be covered with the upper lashes when
the eyes are closed, but the result is often not so effective). (See photo 1.) Make
sure you do not ask the client to look up into the overhead light as this will over-
sensitise the eyes and make them water.
Remove contact lenses if required
4 Ask the client to close the eyes and apply the tint to the upper lashes.
5 Gently lift the skin to the eyebrows, so the tint can be applied right down to the
base of the lashes and include shorter hairs which grow near the inside corner of
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

the eyes.
If shaping is to be carried out
always tint first and shape after 6 If the client complains of discomfort or the eyes begin to water, remove the tint
immediately using damp cotton wool pads, and irrigate the eye.
7 Note the time and allow for the tint to work according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. The colour should be checked at intervals and the tint reapplied
Cleanse area with non-oily product if necessary. As a guide, allow 5–10 minutes, depending on the colour
characteristics of the client.

Removal of eyelash tint

Apply barrier cream and preformed If the client experiences irritation, stinging or burning, the tint should be removed
shapes if tinting lashes immediately before the end of the processing time. Even if a client has not had a
negative reaction to a sensitivity test, some clients may find that the process irritates
the delicate skin around the eye. The same would apply for the application of
eyelash glue.
Mix tint and apply (never pre-mix
1 Place a pad of damp cotton wool on each eye. Hold the eye shield and pad of
the tint). Note processing time on
client record card cotton wool together at the base and swiftly remove, enclosing any excess tint.
2 Remove any remaining tint with slightly damp cotton wool, using a gentle
downward motion, and remove excess with a cotton bud. (See photo 3.)
3 When both eyes have been cleaned, ask the client to carefully open the eyes.
Remove tint after the required 4 Support the eye and work quickly on the lower lashes with damp cotton wool and
processing time
a cotton bud.
5 Stand in front of the client to check that all the tint has been removed.
6 Finally, wipe the area over with damp cotton wool to remove traces of the barrier
Show client results. Give aftercare cream.
advice 7 Offer a hand mirror to view the final results.
8 Inform the client of possible contra-actions and aftercare. If irritation occurs, apply
a damp cotton wool compress to the area.

Record details on client record card 9 Enter details on to the client record card. This should include the colour selected
and the processing time for the tint, and any contra-actions and other information
Eyebrow and lash tinting relevant to the treatment.
The process of eyelash tinting should take about 20 minutes.

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 Practical skills

Applying eyebrow tint

Step-by-step eyebrow tint
This can be performed after lash tinting, prior to shaping. Many salons and therapists
perform this treatment while the lash tint is processing, to ensure they are cost-
effective with their time. If shaping is carried out first, the tint will seep into the open
pores, causing irritation.
1 Prepare the skin and brows the same way as for treating the lashes. Apply barrier
cream around the eyebrows taking care to avoid the hairs.
2 Apply the tint against the hair growth using an orange stick or a fine brush,
working gradually from the outer and underneath hairs towards the centre.
3 After one minute, remove a little tint from the inner corners of the eyebrow and
check how the colour is developing. Apply more tint and repeat colour checks at
one-minute intervals until the desired effect has been achieved. The developing

Unit B5
time for tinting brows is much shorter than for lashes, usually 1–3 minutes.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for product guidance. Care must
be taken to prevent the brows from becoming too dark as this can create an
unattractive harsh effect.
4 Remove tint with clean, damp cotton wool.
5 Wipe over the area to remove all traces of barrier cream.

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

6 Discuss the final effect, possible contra-action and aftercare with the client.
7 Enter details of the treatment on the client record card.
The process of eyebrow tinting should take approximately 15 minutes.

How to irrigate the eye

If tint accidentally enters the eye, do not panic; the client may be feeling discomfort
and a slight burning sensation. Calm the client and explain the procedure you are
going to follow.
1 Tilt the client’s head slightly to one side. Carefully trickle some tepid water into
the corner of the eye and allow the eye to be rinsed of the foreign body.
2 Hold some tissue or a small kidney dish to collect the excess water.
3 Apply a damp cotton wool compress to cool and soothe the eye.
It is not acceptable to use an eyebath because of the risk of cross-infection.
Possible causes of eye irritation include:
very sensitive eyes
too much or incorrect strength of hydrogen peroxide
something in the eye
inadvertently poking the eye.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Assessing the results

It is important that the client is shown the results of the treatment to ensure
satisfaction before she leaves the treatment room.
A successful tinting treatment produces the required colour changes to the lashes
and brows without staining the skin.
Even the shortest eyelashes should be coloured from the base.
The appearance of blond roots after the eyelash tint shows that not enough care
was taken. The skin fold of the eyelid was probably not lifted away from the base
of the hairs when applying tint.
The tint will not have covered the brows successfully if:
– there was grease or make-up on the hairs
  – old tint was used
– the hydrogen peroxide had lost strength
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

– the tint and peroxide were incorrectly mixed

– the tint was removed too soon.

Aftercare
As with all treatments, the client should be advised against touching or rubbing the
areas immediately after the treatment. If redness or irritation occurs, apply a damp
cotton wool compress.
The client should be aware that the effects will last approximately 4–6 weeks as the
hairs grow out. Strong sunlight will make the results fade faster.

Product safety data

Product Description Ingredients Hazards Flammability First aid Spillage Handling and
procedures storage
Eye make-up Prepared from All ingredients Non-hazardous Ingestion: drink Clean using No special
remover mild cleaning commonly used under normal
7 milk or water absorbent precautions
agents in a in cosmetic conditions of Eye contact: wash material,
cosmetic base products and use well with water; if followed by
meet accepted irritation persists, washing with
standards of seek medical detergent and
purity advice water to avoid
slippery floors
Eyelash tint Oil/water- Water/cetearyl Non-hazardous Ingestion: drink a Clean area At least three
emulsion alcohol/ on its own.
7 lot of water; seek immediately to years, when
(cream) PEG-sorbitan Becomes medical attention prevent. Always kept under
lanolate/sodium hazardous Skin contact: wear gloves and normal stocking
cetearyl sulfate/ when mixed remove with avoid contact conditions
diaminotoluene/ with hydrogen water; if irritation with skin and
aminophenols/ peroxide occurs, seek eyes. Staining
dyest. CI 77499 medical attention
and/or 77007/
Eye contact:
no preservatives
avoid by careful
observation of
the instructions
for use; if contact
occurs, rinse
immediately with
warm water

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 Practical skills

Product Description Ingredients Hazards Flammability First aid Spillage Handling and
procedures storage

Eyelash tinting Mixture of All ingredients Hazardous if Ingestion: seek Clean area with Always wear
peroxide oxidising agents, commonly used precautions are
7 medical attention plenty of water gloves and avoid
Note:
wetting agents, in cosmetic ignored immediately. and dispose contact with
Hydrogen
pH adjusters, products and Skin contact: down drain; skin.
peroxide
fragrance and meet accepted avoid; always do not absorb Store in a cool
may react
water standards of wear rubber into flammable place away
with other
Contents: purity
chemicals to gloves when using material such as from direct
hydrogen product; if skin tissue or couch sunlight; store
form explosive
peroxide contact occurs, roll in the original
mixtures;
combustion wash well with container
may occur soap and water; if only and
if hydrogen irritation persists, keep closures
peroxide is seek medical tightly sealed.
allowed to attention Contamination
dry on paper, Eye contact: of solutions
wood, hair, avoid; wash well containing

Unit B5
etc. with water and hydrogen
seek medical peroxide
attention can result in
instability with
liberation of
heat and oxygen
Eyelash tint Mixture of All ingredients Hazardous Ingestion: avoid, Clean Store in a cool
stain remover ethanol and commonly used unless
3 drink plenty of contaminated place away from
Ethanol

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

fragrance oils in in cosmetic normal safety milk or water area with plenty direct sunlight;
content: 50
solution products and precautions Inhalation: of water, wash large quantities
per cent w/w
meet accepted followed avoid, may cause with detergent should be stored
standards of Note: In and water to in fire-resistant
dizziness, remove
purity event of a avoid slippery store
to fresh air
fire, evacuate floors; do not
areas known Skin contact:
absorb on to
to contain avoid prolonged
combustible
products and contact with
material such as
inform fire skin; if irritation
tissue or couch
service of their persists, seek
roll
presence medical attention

Apply artificial eyelashes

In this outcome you will learn about:
• c hecking the client’s understanding of the treatment prior to commencement and discussing any
areas that require clarification
• ensuring the area is thoroughly cleansed and suitably prepared prior to the treatment
• positioning and fixing the artificial lashes accurately, leaving the eye area free of excessive products
• identifying and promptly resolving any application problems occurring during the treatment
• promptly removing the artificial lashes with the correct products in the event of any contra-actions
and applying a cold water compress to soothe the eye
• ensuring, on completion, that the artificial eyelashes give a balanced and well-proportioned look
suitable for the agreed desired effect
• ensuring, on completion, that partial sets are smoothly and evenly graduated into the natural
eyelashes
• ensuring finished result is to the client’s satisfaction.

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Artificial lashes can be used to enhance any make-up, but they are especially suitable
for evening and photographic applications. Before applying lashes it is important to
discuss with the client the effect she wishes to create, be it subtle or dramatic.
This treatment will require a sensitivity test for the adhesive. A check for contra-
indications should also be made, as eye infections are easily spread.

The benefits of artificial lashes

Artificial lashes are designed to enhance and emphasise the eyes by giving the natural
lashes a fuller and more defined appearance. They come in the form of individual
lashes or strip lashes. Using artificial lashes can have the following benefits.
They are a good option for a client who is allergic to mascara and eyelash tint.
They can be convenient for someone who is going on holiday.
They make the natural lashes appear longer and thicker.
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

They add definition to the eye area.

They can enhance a photographic make-up.
They can enhance an evening or fantasy make-up.
They can complete a corrective make-up.
Artificial eyelashes
Effects
Deep-set eyes – fine pointed upper and lower lashes will give added definition to
the eye.
Round eyes – individual lashes can be used to thicken the lash line from the
centre of the eye outwards.
Small eyes – individual lashes placed at the outer corner will make the eyes look
larger.
Close-set eyes – artificial lashes applied to the outer third of the eye will have
the effect of widening the eye.
During the consultation, it is important to establish what result the client is expecting
to achieve. If expectations are unrealistic, this should be explained to the client. Once
a plan has been agreed, treatment can commence.

Factors to consider when choosing artificial

eyelashes
Client’s age. Artificial lashes create a very bold, dramatic effect, which can make
an older client look harsh.
Client’s natural lashes. Choose artificial lashes to complement the natural lash.
Occasion for wearing artificial eyelashes. This can determine whether individual
or strip lashes are more appropriate, e.g. individual for corrective, strip for fantasy
make-up.
Maintenance of lashes. Strip lashes are easily maintained as no special product
is needed for removal, and they can be reused. In the case of individual lashes,
maintenance may be required to replace lashes due to natural hair loss. Solvent
product is required to remove lashes.

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 Practical skills

Time for lash application. Strip lashes add 10 minutes to a make-up time.
Individual lashes take 20–30 minutes, depending how many are applied.
Further appointments. Strip lashes need to be applied daily. Individual lashes
need an appointment in 3–6 weeks for maintenance and to replace lashes lost
naturally.

Semi-permanent individual lashes

This type of lash is also known as an eyelash extension. One advantage is that it can
be placed on top of the client’s own lashes individually. They can therefore be placed
independently to create different effects: they can be used sparingly on the outside of
the eye to improve the client’s eye shape, or placed across the entire upper eye area
for a fuller effect.
The lashes are usually available in black or brown and come in four lengths: mini,
short, medium and long. Individual lashes also come in single lashes or flared. The
flared have two or more strips from one bulb. Think about it

Unit B5
Always carry out a skin sensitivity test
Individual lashes may be worn for up to six weeks, and will be lost when the natural
for the adhesive at least 24 hours
lash falls out. These can be replaced each week if the client requires. The client
prior to the application of lashes. This
should be made aware of this as part of the aftercare. Individual lashes are usually
should be carried out prior to each
made from synthetic threads of nylon, although some of the more expensive lashes
treatment.
can be made of real hair. The lashes made of synthetic fibres hold a permanent
curl for a longer time than natural hair. Whichever type is applied, they are fixed by

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

using special adhesive which bonds the artificial eyelash to the natural lash. This is
Think about it
available in black or clear.
Glue can be an irritant, so always

Performing a sensitivity test on the adhesive refer to the manufacturer’s

instructions and COSHH regulations
This test is required for individual and strip lashes. when using this product.

Place a small amount of the adhesive in the crook of the elbow or behind the ear, at
least 24 hours prior to the treatment. If a reaction occurs such as swelling, irritation
or inflammation, do not proceed with the treatment. It is important to remember that Think about it
dates of all the tests should be recorded on the client record card. If the client wears contact lenses,
these should be removed before the
Preparing the client for application of lashes treatment commences, as adhesive
could damage the lenses.
Hold a full consultation checking for contra-indications and ensure a sensitivity
test has been carried out.
Discuss length, colour and type of lash and client expectations. Think about it
Ensure the client has removed contact lenses, and jewellery that may get in the Contra-indications are the same for
way. all eye treatments, so remember
Place a hairband or turban around the hair. to check. Also remember that it is
very easy to cross-infect the eyes, so
Cover client’s clothing with a cape, towel or tissue.
strict hygiene must be followed: for
Seat client in a semi-reclined position in a good light or with access to a magnifier example, use separate cotton wool
lamp. for each eye.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Eyelash application – what you will need

Always refer to the manufacturer’s • Basic trolley products – tissues, cotton wool, etc.
instructions when using and applying
• Oil-free, eye make-up remover (if oil-based products are used, the adhesive will
lashes, using solvents, and adhesives.
If the client indicates irritation
not adhere to the lashes)
(contra-action), immediately remove • Magnifier lamp
the lashes with the correct products • Lash kit – containing a selection of lashes, adhesive and adhesive solvent
and soothe with a suitable solution.
• Tweezers and orange stick
Apply a cool compress to soothe
the eye. • Small scissors
• Mirror
• Small bowl of water to irrigate the eye if required – refer to lash and brow
tinting for the procedure

Application and maintenance of artificial

Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

eyelashes
Step-by-step application of individual lashes
1 Cleanse the eye with oil-free cleanser. Select eyelash – choose 2 Place the lash with bulb at the client’s natural eyelash roots.
a colour and length of lash nearest to the client’s lashes for a Check with the client’s eyes open, then closed, that the lashes
natural look – and, using tweezers, dip the root into adhesive. follow the natural curve of the eyelid. Apply shorter lashes around
the inner/outer eye, and longer ones around the centre.

3 Comb through, when the glue is dry, to blend in with the

natural eyelashes. Apply eye make-up. The finished result should
enhance, but not look too obvious.

Artificial lashes used to enhance evening make-up

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 Practical skills

Contra-actions to individual and strip lashes

Ensure all materials are to hand
Eye irritation and are hygienic
Always remember to do a sensitivity test for the adhesive. If eyes start to water,
blot with a tissue.
Never place eyelashes underneath the natural lashes, irritation will occur. Carry out consultation and ensure
Products which are suitable for soothing eye irritation vary but commonly contain an adhesive sensitivity test has
been carried out
witch hazel, calamine and antiseptic.
Adhesive or solvent in the eye
If either of these products accidentally enters the eye, irrigate immediately. If
Contra-indication check
serious seek medical advice.
Record all details on the client record card.

Maintenance and care of individual lashes Discuss client requirements (it may

Unit B5
be worth taking into consideration
As extensions are designed to be worn for some weeks, the adhesive used to the type of event the lashes
fix them is quite strong. It is therefore acceptable to apply eye make-up in the are being worn to, as this will
normal way. determine the type most suitable)
Eye make-up remover must be oil-free, as oil will dislodge the lashes.
The lashes should be touched as little as possible.
Mascara will clog the lashes and is difficult to remove. Cleanse area using non-oily

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

product
After initial application of lashes, the client should wait several hours before
showering.
Client should avoid rubbing eyes, as this will loosen the lashes.
Client should avoid extremes of temperature, e.g. sauna. Apply lashes

You should use the solvent specially designed for the adhesive when removing
the lashes. The solvent dissolves the adhesive so that no damage occurs to the
natural lashes. A cotton bud soaked in the solvent should be gently rolled down If lashes require cutting,
the lashes, on to a tissue, until the lash detaches itself. Always refer to the remember to cut so that they are
manufacturer’s instructions when using solvents. tapered to avoid an unrealistic
appearance
Strip lashes
As the name suggests, these synthetic fibres are attached to a fine strip and secured
onto the eyelid as near to the natural lashes as possible, with a special adhesive.
Show client the finished look
This enables the lashes to be placed over the entire eye for a full appearance. Strip
lashes are manufactured in many colours and shapes, and can include glitter effect
and multi-coloured lashes, which can be used in fantasy or photographic make-up.
Strip lashes not only add length but also add thickness and texture. When applying Give aftercare advice
strip lashes the client should be advised that they are for short-term wear, unlike
individual lashes, for a maximum of a day. As with individual lashes, they also come
in a variety of lengths for a realistic appearance.
Fill out record card. If individual
1 After discussion as to the style and colour of the lash that the client requires, trim lashes are used remember to
to the correct length. include details of the lash number
2 Complete the face make-up – foundation, blusher and eye shadow. and where they were placed on
the eye so that the effect can be
3 Seat the client in a semi-reclined position and work from above. recreated

Applying artificial lashes

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Salon life
My story
My name is Zena and I finished my Level 2 last year. After my
course, I started working in a local salon. One of my clients was
attending her sister’s wedding and wanted to make her lashes
look longer for the occasion. She has fairly short, fair lashes and
so I suggested that she had some individual lashes applied to
enhance her natural lash line. I performed a sensitivity test prior
to application to ensure that she was not allergic to the adhesive
that is used and two days later, she had the lashes applied.
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

She was really pleased with the result – it enhanced her natural
lashes but still looked natural. Unfortunately a week after the
application, the client came back to the salon as more lashes had
fallen out than expected. I asked about her daily cleansing routine
and found out that she had been using an oil-based cleanser
which had dissolved the glue. Luckily, this happened after the
wedding and the lashes were ok for her sister’s big day but now I
make sure that I give my clients really clear aftercare advice.

Benefits for client and therapist ASK THE EXPERTS

Benefits of using artificial lashes for the client: Q Why is it important to carry out a skin sensitivity test
• Fairly quick treatment, especially the application of prior to applying lashes?
strip lashes A This should be carried out to ensure that the client is
• Instant result that can be tailored to the event not allergic to the adhesive that is used to apply the
lashes. This should be recorded on the client record
• Strip lashes come in a variety of colours and lengths
card and carried out every three months. If the salon
• Individual lashes come in a variety of lengths to starts using new products, a test should be carried
blend with natural lashes out on all clients prior to the use of the new product.
Benefits of using artificial lashes for the therapist: Q Why should individual lashes be the correct length
and colour?
• Can be fitted in between other treatments as the
service is fairly quick to perform A The lashes should enhance the natural lash
appearance. To keep the finished look natural, the
• Can be linked with other eye treatments artificial lashes should tone in and be of a similar
• Can be offered as part of a make-up or bridal package length.

Top tips
• If the artificial lashes do need to be cut, they should be cut on an angle to give a tapered effect, rather than straight
across which will give a blunted appearance.

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 Practical skills

4 Apply a fine film of adhesive to the base of the artificial lash.

Think about it
5 Using tweezers to hold the eyelash, place them gently on to the skin of the
Always follow manufacturers’
eyelid as close as possible to the client’s lashes.
instructions for the use of adhesives
6 With firm careful pressure, use an orange stick to gently press the artificial lash and solvents. If irritation, swelling or
into place from the tear duct outwards. stinging occur, remove immediately
7 Come round to the front of the client and check fitting, keeping client’s eyes and soothe with a suitable solution.
closed. Wait for a few seconds before checking the results with the client. Refer to COSHH regulations.
8 Continue with the eye make-up, applying eyeliner to give a professional finish.
Mascara should be applied to both natural and artificial lashes to seal them. Use
eyelash curlers if necessary.

Maintenance and care of strip lashes

Strip lashes should always be removed at the end of the day – sleeping in them will
distort their shape. Their shape will also be distorted by rubbing the eyes as this will

Unit B5
loosen the adhesive. To remove the lashes, support the side of the eye and gently
pull the lashes from the outer corner to the inner eye.
Clean strip lashes in the following way.
Human hair – clean with the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner or 70 per
cent alcohol.
Synthetic lashes – place in warm, soapy water for a few minutes. Rinse in tepid

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

water.
Re-curling lashes – after cleaning, lashes should be rolled and secured around
a barrel-shaped object, such as a pencil. Keep the base of the lash straight so
the whole lash length curls around the object. Once recurled, store in the original
container for further use. A simple way to restore the
shape of strip lashes

Ensuring the client is satisfied with the finished

result
Before you pack away your equipment, put tweezers into the steriliser and tidy up,
you should always check the client is happy with her treatment. Do not let the client
get up from the couch and get dressed before you show her the treatment results – it
is then too late to take a little more eyebrow away, or add a little more tint! Give the
client a mirror, and ask if she is satisfied with the results. A little more shaping of the
eyebrow is possible – time permitting. The tint can be made a little darker next time,
if the client requests it. Remind the client that tint only darkens existing lashes – it
will not thicken them in the same way that mascara does. You may need to make a
note on the record card of the client’s opinions, to help you with her next treatment.
Never let the client go until you have talked through the treatment with her and she
is entirely happy.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Provide aftercare advice

In this outcome you will learn about:
• g iving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
• giving your clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs.

It is important that you ensure the client receives the correct aftercare advice for the
treatment that has been undertaken. You could provide an aftercare leaflet that covers
eye treatments highlighting the relevant points for the client to take away.

Frequently asked questions

Q Why is it important to carry out a sensitivity test?

Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

A To ensure that the client is not allergic to any of the products used in the
treatment. This should be done prior to the first tint or application of lashes.

Q Why should a sensitivity test be carried out each time the client comes for a
treatment?

A To ensure the client has not become sensitive to the product causing irritation.
As a salon you may have changed products. You could invalidate your
insurance if a problem arises and this procedure has not been carried out.

Q Do I have to pre-warm the area prior to shaping?

A You do not have to pre-warm the area, but this procedure helps to minimise
discomfort as the heat opens the hair follicles – making removal easier and
less painful for the client.

Q Why is it important to use a non-oily, eye make-up remover prior to

treatment?

A Oil-based products will form a barrier over the lashes, making the application
of artificial lashes or tint non-effective.

Q Why should a barrier cream be applied prior to tinting lashes and brows?

A This barrier cream prevents tint seeping onto the surrounding skin, causing
unsightly staining of the area.

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 Practical skills

Check your knowledge

1 What type of condition is blepharitis?

a) Fungal
b) Viral
c) Bacterial
2 How would you minimise discomfort when shaping the brows?
3 What facial features would you use to aid measuring the shape of brows?
4 Name two types of eyebrow tweezers.
5 Why is it important to carry out a sensitivity test before carrying out a tint?
6 How often should you carry out a sensitivity test for tint and adhesive
products?

Unit B5
7 Why is it important to mix the tint just before you use it, and not in advance?
8 How long would you leave a tint on the brows?
a) As long as the client wants
b) According to the hair type
c) According to the manufacturer’s instructions
9 Why should you tint before carrying out a shape on the client?

Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

10 Which three activities should be avoided after having a brow shape?
11 What is the suggested brow shape for a client?
12 What action would you take if blood spotting occurred when brow shaping?
13 Why should you carry out a patch test for adhesives before applying
artificial lashes?
14 What percentage of peroxide is used when carrying out an eyelash or brow
tint?
a) 5 per cent
b) 15 per cent
c) 10 per cent

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

Your assessor will require you to show competency in the skill areas of shaping, tinting and lash application.
However, your assessor will determine whether you need to show competency three times for each skill area, or just
show one treatment for each skill area on three different clients. This will depend on what other evidence you can show
to cover the ranges as laid down in the criteria. Evidence to support your work may be in the form of photographs or video,
employer’s or client statements, written papers or project work.
Remember that a client may wish to have all three treatments on the same salon visit. You may also carry out a treatment
while the client is having another treatment. An eyelash tint can be performed while the client has a facial mask. These
combined treatments maximise salon revenue and save precious salon and client time.
When tinting and applying artificial lashes it is important to remember that the client must have a sensitivity test for the
products you are using.
When tinting you only need to show that you have practically covered two colour characteristics (light and dark being more
common than white and red). However, your assessor will need you to show that you would be able to treat all colours in
Unit B5 Enhance the appearance of eyebrows and lashes

the range effectively and will require supporting evidence to prove this. These outstanding ranges may be covered by written
work or oral questions.
You must show that you can carry out a total brow re-shape as well as general brow maintenance, and that you can apply
both types of artificial lashes and have used adhesive and solvent products.
You must also show that you can carry out a thorough consultation for each treatment, prepare the working area as
necessary, give suitable aftercare advice for whichever treatment you have performed, and deal with a contra-action if it
arises. This could be by irrigating the eye or identifying a reaction to a patch test or a contra-indication to the treatment.

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 Unit B8/B9

Unit GH8
Provide make-up
services and instruct
clients in the use
and application
of skincare products
and make-up
What you will learn
8.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working when
providing make-up services
8.2 Consult, plan and prepare for make-up services
8.3 Apply make-up products
8.4 Provide aftercare advice
9.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working when
providing skincare and make-up instruction
9.2 Prepare and plan for skincare and make-up instruction
9.3 Deliver skincare and make-up instruction
9.4 Evaluate the success of skincare and make-up instruction

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
These units are presented together as there are many aspects of providing a make-up
service where you must also provide the client with valuable skincare information to
ensure they gain the most from the service. You may also promote further treatments
that can enhance the client’s skin and overall appearance.
The subject of make-up application is one that most of you will associate with
becoming a beauty therapist. The combined unit focuses on the use of make-up
to enhance the appearance, for day, evening and special occasions with the added
component of how to instruct clients on the most suitable skincare and selection of
products to suit their skin type. This is an important skill if you wish to become a
make-up artist, a trainer or pursue a career as a make-up consultant for one of the
Unit B8/B9 application

large cosmetic houses. Most women have used make-up to enhance their appearance
and have been pleased with the results – whether it was for hiding a blemish, for
a special occasion or just a night out with friends. However, few people know how
to use make-up to their best advantage, so it is very rewarding for a therapist to
accentuate a client’s best features and to enable her to disguise or minimise areas
that she is not as happy with. Applying make-up correctly and selecting suitable
skincare products can help you do all this: providing the correct base to work on and
understanding how to apply make-up to enhance features can boost confidence and
self-esteem.
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

To help with make-up application and selection of skincare products, refer to You
and the skin, and Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment, pages 266–72, for
more information on skin types and how to recognise them, skin conditions that
are treatable, and contra-indications that will prevent the treatment or require the
of skincare products and make-up

therapist to adapt the treatment plan. Although techniques are the same regardless
of skin type, a good knowledge of the client’s skin is vital if you are going to do the
best for the client.
It is also important to ensure that you understand the client’s needs, including the
time she may have available to spend on applying products and her budget.
Benefits of skincare and make-up session for the client:
one-to-one, non-intimidating personalised service to suit individual requirements
individual demonstration and trial
tailored skincare/make-up planning.
Benefits of skincare and make-up instructional sessions for the therapist:
one-to-one, personalised service to the client
opportunity to promote salon products and treatments
increase in clientele and commission for the therapist
promotes salon or own business.
Benefits of group demonstration for the client:
fun activity to do with friends
informative without the focus just on you – good for people who don’t know what
to expect!

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 Practical skills

Benefits of a group demonstration for the therapist:

targets a larger audience
as well as all of the above.

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working
In this outcome you will learn about:
• s etting up the work area to meet legal, hygiene and treatment requirements

Unit B8/B9
• making sure that environmental conditions are suitable for the client and the service
• ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and appearance meets accepted industry
and organisational requirements Always ensure your make-up brushes
• ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned using the correct methods are clean before you put them away

• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to skincare and make-up services

• maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices throughout the service to
minimise the risk of cross-infection
• positioning equipment and materials for ease and safety of use
• ensuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue and the risk of injury
while working

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
• respecting a client’s modesty and privacy and any sensitivities to their own
appearance
• disposing of waste materials safely and correctly
• ensuring that the instruction and service are cost-effective and are carried out within
a commercially viable time
• leaving the work area in a condition suitable for further services
• ensuring the client’s records are up to date, accurate, easy to read and signed by the
client and practitioner.

For advice on safe and effective methods of working practice, refer to individual
services. Refer also to Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment, pages 262–66, and
Professional basics.

Ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned Key terms

As with all salon treatments, hygiene is paramount and make-up services are no Decant – removing a product
exception. The equipment and products should be cleaned after each treatment from a larger container to a smaller
and the cut-out method, where products are decanted, should be used, to prevent container.
contamination of the product and cross-contamination from client to client. Cut-out method – decanting
Brushes and sponges a product from a larger container
onto a spatula or into a bowl for use
These need to be cleaned in hot, soapy water, which should be worked into the fibres
during a treatment.
before rinsing under running water. Brushes should then be given a final clean in an
alcohol solution or suitable brush cleaner before drying naturally – this will prevent
the bristles from becoming misshapen. Sponges require soaking for at least one hour
in a suitable disinfectant, and should then be rinsed thoroughly.
For your portfolio
Investigate the type of brushes that
are available on the market.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Palettes
These should be scrubbed to remove waxy deposits, then dried thoroughly.

Maintaining industry hygiene and safety

practices
There is little risk of products becoming infected if good hygiene procedures are
followed. However, to prevent infection by products which are normally applied
directly to the face, these simple rules should be followed.
Eye and lip pencils – sharpen before use to expose a new surface.
Lipsticks – transfer a small amount on to a spatula before applying. Use a
Unit B8/B9 application

disposable lip brush.

Pressed powders (eyeshadow and blushers) – either transfer products on to a
palette or have a good supply of clean brushes.
Mascara – use a disposable mascara wand for each eye.
Wash and disinfect hands before you begin the service.
For information on facial treatments refer to Unit B4, pages 261–323, and for the
difference between sanitisation and sterilisation refer to Professional basics, page 43.

Leaving the work area in a condition suitable for

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

further services
It is important to leave the working area clean and tidy. Ensure that all products are
of skincare products and make-up

put away and that brushes and sponges are cleaned ready for use – clean brushes in
warm, soapy water and rinse well. Allow the brushes to dry naturally if possible, so
that the shape of the brush is not distorted.

Disposing of waste materials

Contaminated waste should be disposed of according to legislative requirements. Any
other waste products can be put with the normal rubbish, but remember to abide by
COSHH guidelines for safe disposal of all products used within the salon. If carrying
out a make-up service and applying false lashes, read the manufacturers’ guidelines
for disposal of adhesive or solvent products.
If you are carrying out a demonstration outside the salon, ensure that all waste is
disposed of in accordance to the law.

Ensuring the client’s records are up to date and

accurate
Ensure that all records are kept up to date. For a make-up service this should include
all products and shades used; any recommendations you have made; and products
that have been purchased, so that you can follow up this information on subsequent
visits. Skincare products should be recorded in the same way – remember that it
would be worth making a note on the record card of any samples that you have given
to the client. This will allow you to follow up their success at the next client visit.

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 Practical skills

TREATMENT SHEET (make-up) Date: 18/5/2010 Client ref no. 789

Any factors which need to be considered today: Client going to wedding in June (mother of the bride).
Outfit – gold hat, black & gold dress and jacket. Wedding in early evening not day; client doesn’t
want to look ‘overdone’
Client’s treatments:
Skin: Colour: Texture: Type: Sensitivity: Problems:

Products used by Cleanser: Toner: Moisturiser: Mask: Night/day creams:

client:
Recommended Cleanser: Toner: Moisturiser: Mask: Night/day creams:
products:
Serums: Make-up base: Corrective Corrective treatments recommended
moisturiser: (i.e eyebrow shape):
TREATMENT SHEET (facials) Date: 11/5/2010 Client ref no. 675
Face: Shape: Bone structure: Eye colour Hair colour: Brow colour and Any factors which need to be considered today: Client new to salon – 1st facial (present from husband for
and shape: shape: 30th bday on 15.05). Would like to buy products too.
Client’s treatments:
Make-up products Foundation: Concealer: Powder: Blusher: Highlighter:
used: Client: Male Female ✓
Skin type: Oily/Dry/Combination/Mature/Young Massage medium: oil/cream

Unit B8/B9
Eye shadows: Liners: Mascara: Lash curlers used: Brow pencil:
Muscle tone: Good/Average/Poor
Age: under 21 30s 40s 50s 60s over 70
Lip liner: Lipstick: Other:
Client’s health: good / average / poor
Comments: Two small children/disturbed nights; complains of low energy sometimes
(and feeling tired and irritable)
Medication taken: Occasional pain killers for period pain
Skin condition: good/average/poor specific problems/conditions to be avoided:
Skin oily & a little congested, black heads along T zone. Showing as a combination skin but no
dryness on cheeks. Face looking tired & a little drawn, poor colour, sallow look – could be caused by lack
of sleep and wrong products
Client’s lifestyle:
Sleep: Approx 4-5 hrs a night (see above) – Relaxation: good/poor
disturbed sleep pattern
Profession: Works from home (writer) often Fluid intake:
late pm/early am to fit round kids eight glasses of water taken daily? No Other drinks: Tea

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Family life: Married with two children Smoking/drugs: No
Exercise: None - no time & would have to Emotional balance: 1-10 rating 1 being low 10 being highest:
organise child care
Energy levels: 1-10 rating 1 being low 10 being Other: regular mealtimes / shift work / supplements / allergies: –
highest: 1-2 (see above)
Notes on selected make-up/application:
Client’s treatment:
Client declaration: I declare the information is true and correct and that, as far as I am aware, I can undertake treatment with Treatment chosen (and reasons):
this establishment without any adverse effects. I am fully aware of any contra-indications: I am therefore willing to proceed
and accept this treatment.
Contra indication present: yes/no
Client signature*: *Without signature, the treatment cannot proceed Date: Details:

Was client encouraged to seek medical advice? yes/no

Does treatment need adapting due to minor contra indication?: yes/no
Details:
Therapist signature: Date:

Modifications to treatment: yes/no

Details:

Massage techniques used: Effleurage / Petrissage / Tapotement / Vibrations

A partially completed make-up record card
026578_aw_093.indd 1 13/1/10 12:16:56

Aftercare/homecare advice given (including details of recommended products):

Client declaration: I declare the information is true and correct and that, as far as I am aware, I can undertake treatment with
this establishment without any adverse effects. I am fully aware of any contra-indications: I am therefore willing to proceed and
accept this treatment.
Client signature*: *Without signature, the treatment cannot proceed Date:

Therapist signature: Date:

026578_aw_092.indd 1 13/1/10 12:16:21

A partially completed skincare record card

Obtain potential client information

Whenever you give a group demonstration, it is a good idea to ask potential clients
if they would be happy to give you their personal details to be included in a mailing
list for special offers and promotions. (Refer to Professional basics, page 63, for the
correct storage of data under the Data Protection Act.)

For your portfolio

Devise a record card or information sheet that you could use for a group
demonstration.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Consult, plan and prepare for

make-up and skincare and make-up
instruction
In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing consultation techniques in a polite and friendly manner • e ncouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points
to determine the client’s needs and preferences within the • taking the necessary action in response to any identified
limits of your responsibility contra-indications
• ensuring client advice is given without reference to a specific
Unit B8/B9 application

• ensuring that informed and signed parental or guardian

consent is obtained for minors prior to any service medical condition and without causing undue alarm and
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout the concern
services for minors under the age of 16 • agreeing the service and outcomes that are acceptable to the
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the client client and meet their needs
prior to carrying out the service • ensuring the objectives of the skincare and make-up
• asking your client appropriate questions to establish their instruction are clear, realistic and agreed with the client
current skincare and make-up regime and ability level • selecting suitable make-up products to suit the client’s age
• asking your client appropriate questions to identify if they group, skin type, tone and condition, the occasion and their
have any contra-indications to skincare and make-up products preferences
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

• accurately recording your client’s responses to questioning • ensuring the lighting conditions are appropriate to the type of
• ensuring the client is comfortable and correctly seated in a make-up instruction
relaxed position, with a good view of the mirror • providing a suitable range of skincare and make-up products
• ensuring the client’s clothing, hair and accessories are for the client skin type, tone and condition and the type of
effectively protected or removed instruction to be given
of skincare products and make-up

• ensuring the skin is clean, toned and suitably moisturised prior • ensuring that face charts and all necessary tools and
to the application of make-up equipment are available.
• accurately recognising and recording the client’s skin type, age
group and condition

Recognising and recording the client’s skin type

The knowledge you require to prepare the client for treatment is the same as that
required for a full facial treatment as covered in Unit B4 Improve and maintain facial
skin condition, pages 291–321.
Whatever the environment you are working in and whatever the treatment you are
undertaking, you will need to carry out a skin analysis in order to ensure the correct
products are selected. This will cover:
facial examination
skin types, e.g. normal, dry, oily or combination
record cards.
Refer to You and the skin, pages 184–88, for further detailed information on skin
types and conditions. You should also refer to the risk assessment for facials that is
included in Unit B4 on page 264.

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 Practical skills

Using consultation techniques to determine the Think about it

client’s needs and preferences and obtaining consent For every client, you will need their
signed, written, informed consent
Before a make-up application/instruction or skincare lesson can take place, a full
before carrying out the service.
consultation should be undertaken so that an accurate assessment of the client and her
Anyone under the age of 16 will
needs can be made. This should be both by visual assessment of the skin and by asking
require parent/guardian informed
a series of questions.
and signed consent for these services
Visual assessment to go ahead, and the parent/guardian
This should be carried out on a cleansed and toned dry face with the hair secured away must be present throughout the
service.
from the face. The skin should not be moisturised at this stage because this will make
the skin slightly greasy. A suitable moisturiser for the skin should be applied before

Unit B8/B9
the application of make-up. Refer to Unit B4, pages 277–91, for information on facial
analysis, cleansing and toning routines.
You should analyse the client’s skin type, facial features and bone structure in an
upright position.
When carrying out an analysis for make-up the light should be falling directly onto the
client’s face. The light should be a combination of natural daylight and warm white
fluorescent light.

Colour and shape Natural colour and Think about it

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Skin type and tone
of eyes and brows shape of lips
The facial features look very different
when the client is laid flat.
VISUAL Skin blemishes
ASSESSMENT OF and problems
Face shape
THE AREA SHOULD
INCLUDE

Muscle tone
Bone structure and Lines and
facial contours wrinkles

Questioning the client

As well as the visual assessment, you should ask the client a few simple questions
For your portfolio
to help you both agree on a realistic service plan. Some useful questions to help you
assess the client are listed below. In pairs, devise some more open
questions that you could ask the
How much make-up do you usually wear?
client.
What do you think are your best/worst features?
Do you have any allergies or sensitivity to make-up or other related products?
Is the make-up for a special occasion?
Are there any colours you like/dislike?
Are you trying to create a special look?
What skincare regime do you use at present?
Do you have any areas of particular concern/outcomes you would like to address/
achieve? (This will encourage the client to ask any questions that she may have.)

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

It is important to ask the client open questions so that you can gain maximum
information. Always be positive, even if the client has no skincare regime.
When you have gathered all the information you can agree a suitable plan for your
make-up and skincare instructional session or make-up application. You may have
differing views from your client, so it is important to agree on a suitable and realistic
plan. Remember, too, that the plan should reflect the client’s level of ability. If she is
a novice at applying skincare products and make-up, there is no point in giving her a
complicated routine to follow.

Think about it
To carry out an effective make-up session, you will need to be able to identify and treat
Unit B8/B9 application

the client’s individual skin type, so it is essential that you have sound knowledge of
facial treatments and products.

Details of your analysis should be recorded on the client record card. This will support
recommendation of skincare products and is a valuable tool when recording the make-
up used. Recording your analysis is essential when doing a bridal make-up trial, as you
would want to create the same result on the day.

Identifying if clients have contra-indications to

make-up
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Allergic reactions and sensitivity testing

European Union (EU) and US legislation requires that cosmetic companies conduct
very strict safety tests on materials they use to formulate products. Nevertheless,
of skincare products and make-up

there will always be some people who are allergic to a substance which other
Key terms
people can tolerate without a problem. It is therefore essential that you complete a
Sensitivity – the ability to react sensitivity test if you are concerned that the client may react to a product. This can
to a stimulus. This could be caused be done by testing a small sample of the product behind the client’s ear or in the
by an allergy such as hayfever or as crook of the elbow. If a reaction occurs within 24 hours the product should not be
a result of improper use of products used. A reaction could include:
over a period of time.
redness (erythema)
Allergic reaction – unpleasant
swelling
reaction of the body when coming
into contact with a particular irritation to the area.
ingredient, product, chemical or Treat with calamine lotion and a cold compress as necessary.
substance; symptoms may include
sneezing, redness of the skin, skin In some instances, medication can affect the condition of the skin and cause
rash, inflamed eyes and mucus sensitivity to occur. Always carry out a thorough consultation and contra-indication
membranes. check. If the client has an unidentified condition, recommend that she visits her GP for
Hypoallergenic – designed to a diagnosis and treatment. Never diagnose yourself.
cause fewer allergic reactions. If the client has had allergic reactions to skincare products or make-up in the past,
ensure that the products you select are hypoallergenic.

How long do cosmetics last?

The European Union Cosmetics Directive 1993 states that products which contain
no preservatives and natural ingredients with a shelf life of less than six months
have to be stamped with an expiry date. Cosmetics that have been tested and
meet the European safety requirements are not required to be date stamped. The

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 Practical skills

EU gives a shelf life for cosmetics that is approximately 30 months from the time
of manufacture, although this may vary depending on the product, so you could
calculate how long you have had a product from the day that you opened it. The time
after opening is denoted by a special symbol that looks like an open jar; inside the
symbol will be a number that will reflect the number in months that the product can
safely be used without harm.

Risk assessment for make-up application

Refer to Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 73–85, for a complete discussion of risk assessment.
Hazard: only look for hazards that you could reasonably expect to result in
significant harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following

Unit B8/B9
examples as a guide.
• Allergies (allergic reaction to make-up)
• Cross-infections (infections spread from tools)
• Irritation (caused by scratchy tools)
• Contamination (caused by ignoring contra-indications to service)

Many of the topics relating to both the application of skincare products and the
application of make-up are covered in more depth in Unit B4, pages 261–325;

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Professional basics, pages 12–68; and Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce
risks to health and safety, pages 71–103.

Think about it
In some instances allergic reactions can be severe and will require medical intervention.
In the event of a client being allergic to a certain product or substance, ensure that you
always read the ingredients and refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. Always record
details on the client record card.

Ensuring lighting is suitable for make-up

application and instruction
It is important to work in good lighting when applying make-up to the client, carrying
out make-up instruction and, where possible, for demonstrations. Always try to face
natural light. Natural daylight is pure white light, but this light does not just fall on
the face from above – it is reflected from any light coloured surface it hits. Natural
daylight is the only light that shows true colours, but it is also the harshest form
of light as it shows up imperfections. To achieve the best from your make-up, a
combination of natural light and warm white fluorescent lighting gives the best effect.

Artificial lighting
Make-up colours tested in the wrong light can give the wrong effect when applied. It
is therefore important to be aware of the differing effects of various types of lighting.

Standard light bulbs

These produce a yellowish colour which dulls blue tones and makes red tones
appear darker. A light bulb cover with a shade directs the light down, creating
unnatural shadows.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Fluorescent tubes
Think about it
White tubes give out a harsh, blue-white light which makes colours appear cold. If
Warm, white fluorescent light is the
the fluorescent tube is covered by a diffuser, this will soften the effect and create
best substitute for natural lighting
very little shadow. Warm white tubes with a diffuser will therefore be the best type of
and the best for matching make-up
artificial light for matching make-up colours.
colours.

Preparing for a skincare or make-up service

The working area should be clean, tidy and well organised. Ensure you adhere to a
professional standard regarding your appearance and that your working area complies
with the health, safety and hygiene regulations. Consult your professional body for
guidelines to prevent cross-infection. The main sources of infection during make-up
Unit B8/B9 application

are usually contaminated products, dirty tools and equipment, and applying make-up
and skincare products over infected areas.
Make-up and skincare activities can be carried out individually or you may be asked
to do a promotion or presentation to a group. Whichever method you are using it is
important that you act in a professional manner. Whether you are in a cubicle with
a client in a one-to-one setting or giving a presentation in a community centre, you
should maintain the same high standards.

Recognising and recording the client’s skin type, age group and
condition
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Before carrying out any make-up services, you need to ensure that you establish the
client’s skin type, age range and condition and select suitable skincare and make-up
products for both the client’s personal use and instruction. (Refer to Unit B4, pages
of skincare products and make-up

List of ingredients and shelf life of 277–91, for more information on how to undertake a facial analysis and select
product appropriate products.)

Normal skin Dry skin Oily skin Combination Sensitive skin Dehydrated Mature skin
skin skin

Eye make-up Eye make-up Eye make-up Products to suit Treat as As dry – Cream-based
remover lotion remover – oil or remover – lotion the variation dry skin – recommend products that are
Light cleansing cream based based in skin types consider using gentle suitable for drier
lotion Cream cleanser Cleansing lotion – however, hypoallergenic exfoliation and skin and alcohol-
Facial wash if 0 per cent or milk if the client products facial treatments free toners that
preferred alcohol toner Facial wash or has sensitive such as a prevent the skin
10–20 per cent Cream gel skin in the galvanic facial to from drying out,
alcohol toner moisturiser 2–50 per cent combinations, push moisture night, eye and
Light Gentle exfoliant alcohol toner this should into the skin neck creams
moisturising Eye cream Cleansing grain always take should be
lotion/cream Neck cream or peel priority over recommended.
Eye lotion/gel Non-setting Moisturising other types of Additional
Gentle exfoliant mask milk product treatments such
Non-setting Light eye gel as non-surgical
mask Clay-based face lifts could
masks also be discussed

At a glance – suitable skincare products for different skin types

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 Practical skills

The client should be shown how to use each of the recommended products, it
is important for the therapist to let the client know the frequency of application,
methods of application and any special equipment that should be used. This should
be done by the use of demonstration and client application as a trial, diagrams,
written home care leaflets as well as verbal instruction.

Think about it Think about it

If a product starts to smell, change colour or separate, it should be thrown away. You should have available a variety
Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for use and storage and look at the of products and equipment to suit all
symbol denoting the number of months the product can be used for once opened. If skin types and effects that you wish
products are used incorrectly or not stored properly, then they will deteriorate more to create suitable for a varied range
quickly than indicated on the symbol. of clientele.

Unit B8/B9
Basic trolley set-up for a skincare instructional session
Variety of cleansers, toners and moisturisers for each skin type
Exfoliants
Facial washes/scrubs
Eye creams
Neck creams
Lip balms

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Masks
Magnifier lamp
Headband
Cotton wool/facial sponges
Tissues
Spatulas
Facial consultation charts

Basic trolley equipment for a make-up procedure

Towels or gown
Headband
Make-up sponges
Make-up brushes
Make-up products
Spatulas
Palette
Sharpener
Cotton buds
Mirror
Brush and comb
All brushes should preferably be disposable to prevent
cross-infection.
Trolley prepared for skincare instructional session

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Make-up brushes
A good set of brushes is essential in the application of any make-up. There are
individual brushes available for each stage of the make-up application. For maximum
benefit it is important to understand their usage.

Face-powder brush Blusher brush Contour brush

Unit B8/B9 application

This is the largest brush as it covers Used to apply blusher to the This brush has several uses: to apply
the largest area. It is not restricted to cheekbones. It looks similar to the contour powder under the cheekbones,
defining shape, its primary purpose powder brush but is slightly smaller in to shade and highlight the face.
being to blend loosened face powder order to work on the cheekbone area.
into the skin.

Eyebrow brush Eyeliner brush Angled eyeshadow brush

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Used to shape the brows and to blend For the application of eyeliner or to To apply and blend powder eyeshadow.
of skincare products and make-up

colour. It has short nylon bristles and blend in kohl pencils along the rim of The angle of the brush is important, it
may have a small comb on the other the eye, a very thin, pointed brush is allows you to follow and blend into the
side to separate lashes. required. socket area.

Eyeshadow brush Fluff brush Sponge applicator Lip brush

Used for general shading This brush is used to finish The sponge is good for To apply lipstick, the brush
purposes. It is similar to off the blending of the eye applying both loose and must have short thin bristles
the angle brush but with a make-up. It is the largest of powder eyeshadow. It is to make it flat. This helps to
straight edge. the eye brushes and it needs also used for blending and give a clean outline to the
to be very soft, as it is used softening harsh pencil lines. lips.
to soften the edges without
disturbing the shape of the
make-up.

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 Practical skills

One-to-one make-up and skincare sessions Think about it

A one-to-one make-up or skincare session usually takes place in a salon, in a well-lit As a therapist, it is important to
cubicle or working area, and takes little organisation, except for clean tools, a good consider your posture as well as
selection of products and the necessary accessories of tissues, cotton wool and cotton the client’s when carrying out a
buds, as well as a large mirror. (Refer to basic trolley set-up above.) service. When conducting a make-
up application or demonstration
When the client books in for a lesson, it is a good idea to suggest she brings her
you must be able to reach the client
existing make-up – it might simply be that the client has excellent products and
correctly. Positioning is important to
colours, but she just does not know how or where to use them, or she might be prevent injury.
concerned about overusing them – or the range of skincare products she currently uses.
When using instructional techniques, whether for skincare products or the application
of make-up, you are teaching the correct use and application in order for the client

Unit B8/B9
to gain the best results. With make-up application the best way to do this is to ask
Think about it
the client to follow your lead. You do one side of the face, and she matches the
technique on the other. When working one-on-one with a
client, allow them to look in a mirror
For an individual skincare or make-up lesson you should: as you work with the products so
seat the client in an upright or slightly reclined position in good light they can see exactly what you are
discuss the client’s requirements including any concerns doing, and, if you are carrying out
a make-up, how the effect can be
remove any accessories, and make sure hair is secured off the face
achieved.
ask the client to remove her contact lenses if she has sensitive eyes

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
protect the client’s clothing
check for contra-indications (refer to You and the skin, pages 199–203, for further
information on contra-indications)
carry out a thorough skin analysis on cleansed skin.

Make-up consultation should include:

client preference
face shape
areas to be highlighted/shaded
any areas requiring corrective make-up
bone structure
shape of head
hair colour and texture
skin colour and tone
skin sensitivity
cultural and religious considerations.

Cultural and religious considerations

For some Asian women, facial adornment has religious significance that has its roots
steeped in history. The application of facial and body adornment is a specialised art.
If you treat people from several different cultures within your salon, it would be worth
spending time researching this area. This would show excellent customer care to
existing and prospective clients. You should also be aware of the ingredients in the
make-up products and skincare range you use – some cultures and religions forbid
the use of animal-based products.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Agree a plan incorporating the above, taking into account the type of make-up
Think about it
required, the occasion, the colour of clothing to be worn, the client’s clothing,
Make-up is a very personal thing. and the client’s skin type and tone, which should include both colour and muscle
While it is important to be sensitive tone, condition and age group.
to cultural differences, whatever
Agree products with client.
your perceptions of your client’s
background might be, do not make Apply the make-up and explain the procedure to the client.
assumptions about how she would Assess the results with the client, entering the colours/products used on the
like to look. record card.
Recommend products for homecare use.
Check client satisfaction.
Unit B8/B9 application

Face shapes
It is useful to consider some general descriptions of face shapes and some hair styles
Key terms
that can enhance a make-up. This will help when you are analysing the client’s face
Enhance – make something look shape at the consultation stage. Remember when applying make-up to clients from
better or more attractive. different ethnic origins that characteristic facial features can differ.
Any corrective work on black or Asian clients should be approached in exactly the
same way as for white Caucasian clients, using contouring products to enhance or
reduce areas. Refer to skin characteristics in You and your skin, page 189.
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Refer also to You and the skin, pages 198–99 for more information on face shapes.

To enhance their image for a job Pick-me-up after illness To address skincare
of skincare products and make-up

interview, promotion, etc. or bereavement problems

Special event – wedding,

After weight loss
prom, anniversary
REASONS FOR WANTING
SKINCARE OR MAKE-UP SESSION
Age influence – milestone After new glasses
birthday (30, 40 or 50) or contacts

Reasons why clients book a

one-to-one make-up lesson Group demonstrations
Local clubs and societies are often looking for opportunities to engage interesting
speakers. You could offer to give a talk to the local Women’s Institute (WI), mother
and toddler group, slimming group or women’s group, or your salon might be
approached by one of these groups asking for a make-up or skincare demonstration.
This is your opportunity to talk about the various treatments your salon offers or, if
you are a mobile or independent home-based therapist, an opportunity for you to
promote your business.
All of these groups are potential customers, so a professional, yet friendly, approach
is essential. Your aim is to encourage them to come to you for the treatments and
services you are demonstrating!

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 Practical skills

My story
Salon promotions
Hi, my name is Sam. I am manager of a large salon in Kent. Until recently, my therapists
were all reluctant to take part in promotional events, so I devised an in-house training
session to get them used to public speaking and doing demonstrations to larger groups.
We invited family and friends along so that it was not so intimidating, and presented
some of our latest treatments. We also did skin mapping. The session was a huge
success, and it gave the therapists real confidence. We now do seasonal promotion
evenings, and all the therapists enjoy taking part. It has increased our clientele and sales.
It’s also worth remembering that some product companies will provide a small amount of
money for the organisation of a promotional event.

Unit B8/B9
Meeting individual needs and interests
When organising a demonstration, you will need to consider:
the age group of the audience – this will impact on the type of skincare or
make-up you focus on
the size of the group
the type of demonstration – face painting would interest a mother and toddler
group but may not interest the WI, for example

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
the time of day when the event is to be held – day, evening or special interest,
e.g. prom/ball/bridal
different product types, for example emphasis on products with sunscreens and
protection from the environment – this could include
– moisturisers and age-defying hand creams
– products designed for sensitive skins/hypoallergenic products
– suitable cosmetic make-up for treating skin disorders, port wine stains, etc.
If you are carrying out a group demonstration/instructional demonstration, there are a
number of factors that you should consider to ensure that your audience is engaged.

Venue and format

Some points to bear in mind:
Where the event is to be held is very important. The venue can be anywhere,
from the local village hall to a hotel (most commonly used for bridal fairs) to
someone’s home. Find out where and when, and then consider both the risk
assessment aspect and health and safety implications.
You will need to check whether your insurance will cover you to do the
demonstration. You should not assume that your public liability and indemnity
insurances are valid when you are working away from your own premises (see
Professional Basics, page 65). You also need to consider your car insurance: are
you covered by business insurance and are your products insured when stored in
and transported in your vehicle?
Accidents happen, and it is your responsibility to ensure that both you and
your audience are adequately protected; both externally, for problems with the
building, fire regulations, etc., for internal areas, such as safe seating and
non-slip flooring.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Ask the group’s organiser if the premises have an up-to-date fire certificate, if there
has been a recent risk assessment of the building and what access and exit facilities
are available. Are there fire exits?
Will a first aider be present at the demonstration? What happens if a member of the
group has an accident or is taken ill? This needs to be considered before the event so
that contingency plans can be put in place – after the event is too late and may leave
you and the organiser with serious issues of compensation or neglect charges.
If the demonstration is for people who have disabilities, then responsibility should
be taken by the organisers to ensure that sufficient carers are present to support the
audience. It should not be your responsibility to take guests to the toilet or deal with
a medical emergency – you are not trained to do so. Find out if there are facilities for
people with disabilities such as ramps and toilets.
Unit B8/B9 application

For your own safety, ask the organiser about parking and how to get in to the building.
A dark parking area may leave you vulnerable, and carrying your demonstration
materials, make-up and stand up several flights of stairs because the lift is not
working may not be very practical. Ideally, easy access on the ground floor is
preferred, with well-lit parking available. You may need to enlist some help in
setting up.

Budget and cost

The other important aspect of the group demonstration is who pays and for what. The
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

issues of budget and cost should be sorted out at the planning stage. If your salon is
approached by an organisation, the organiser will usually ask how much you charge
for a make-up demonstration. Some salons would consider this an ideal opportunity to
enhance their client base and a means of advertising, and would therefore agree to the
of skincare products and make-up

demonstration for free. Other salons would look at the time involved, the wages of the
member of staff to be covered and the cost of materials, and then calculate a set fee to
cover their overheads. This is up to the individual salon – there is no right answer.
The timing of the demonstration may affect the issue of cost. If the therapist goes in her
own time after work to an evening event, then she may expect to be paid for it. Often,
bridal fairs are held over a weekend to allow people who work during the week to attend.
This may mean the therapist is working on her only day off, Sunday, and she may wish to
be paid. If she attends on Saturday, who will cover her clients in the salon? This could
become expensive if a relief therapist has to be brought in or clients cancelled to allow
the therapist time to attend a demonstration she is giving, with no charge.
However, often it is worth the investment for the publicity generated, and the profile of
the salon can be raised enormously. Lots of business comes out of demonstrations, and
further treatments and services can be linked into the make-up demonstration – facials,
top-to-toe bridal treatments, skin improvement, and so on.
All of this needs discussing with the organisers and your line manager within the salon
before you agree to the demonstration.

Products
The number of people attending the demonstration will affect how many products, testers
and display materials you will need. This will also depend upon the type of demonstration
you do. If it is a complete make-over, using one model, who you have brought along,
to display your skills and entice people into the salon for treatments, then you will only

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need products for one. If you will be selecting a model from the audience, you will
need one set of everything for each skin type.
If you are doing a demonstration en masse, where the audience actively participates,
following your lead, applying their make-up as you go along, then many more
products are required, unless everyone brings their own. As you are applying make-up
to a clean skin, which has a make-up base or moisturiser on it, skincare products are
essential, as well as a selection of make-up.
Active participation is a good idea, and encourages the audience to have the
confidence to apply their own make-up. Make sure that everyone has a clear view of
you and the step-by-step application.

Timing

Unit B8/B9
It is important that you know how long you are expected to speak for and the length of
time your full demonstration will take. If you are expected to take the whole meeting
time, which may be several hours, you should have some activities which the audience
can participate in, like a draw for a free treatment, to keep the interest high.
Have a dress rehearsal with a model before the day of the demonstration, so that
you know how long the actual make-up application takes, and then add time for an
introduction, and a question and answer session afterwards. This will allow you at the
planning stage to tell the organiser that you will need a minimum of, say, an hour
and a half, in which to work.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Setting up the room
The key to a successful demonstration is visibility. The audience needs to be able
to see what you are doing, or they will lose interest and potential clients will have
been lost. For good communication to take place, you also need to be heard, and a
microphone may be needed for larger venues. A raised platform or stage is good for
larger audiences, but it does not create an intimate, friendly feel, so it will depend
upon the number of people and the facilities the venue has.
The best room set-up is a horse-shoe shape, with you and your model at the open
end, with an eye-catching display behind you and all materials close at hand. This
ensures everyone has a good view, you have command of the room and are able to
make lots of eye contact to check that the audience understands your techniques and
remains interested.
Try to be organised, so once you start and get into the swing of things, you do not
have to return to your car for tissues, or stop the demonstration for any reason.
This will break the attention span of your audience, and you will not appear to be
professional.
Think through what you will need beforehand, and work logically so that
nothing is missed.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Deliver skincare and make-up

instruction
In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing instructional techniques which are clear, logical and • e ncouraging the client to ask questions throughout the period
delivered at a pace suitable for the client of instruction
• demonstrating skincare and make-up application in a way • responding clearly and positively to any questions and queries
which promotes understanding • confirming that the client has a basic understanding of the
• guiding the client through application of the product(s) in a basic techniques necessary to achieve their desired look
way which meets the needs of the client and the product(s) • providing the client with accurate information on the
Unit B8/B9 application

being used products, tools and equipment used and where to source
• clearly explaining the use and purpose of make-up tools them
• effectively using resources throughout the instructional activity • actively encouraging clients to take advantage of the products
• adapting your instructional techniques to suit the client’s and services
needs • providing written instructions on how to apply skincare
• using methods of communication that are suitable for the routine and make-up application to achieve their agreed look.
client
• allowing the client sufficient time to practise skincare and
make-up application techniques on themselves
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Introducing the demonstration

Once you have fully prepared your working area and the room is set up in a user-
friendly manner so that everyone can see and hear you, you may begin.
of skincare products and make-up

It is important to consult with your model prior to starting – have a quiet word with
her to ensure that your objectives marry up with her needs, and that she has no
contra-indications present.
An introduction is always a good ice breaker, rather than just starting and hoping
everyone will pay attention. It is a good idea to begin with something along the lines of
‘Good afternoon, everyone – my name is Janine from Tranquillity salon, and I’d like to
welcome you to Fern Hall for this demonstration.’ Then tell the audience exactly what
is going to happen and at what point they can ask questions. For example, ‘I am going
to give a make-up/skincare demonstration for about half an hour, talking you through
the various stages, with some professional tips, and then there will be a question and
answer session. After the tea break, we can talk about products and treatments.’

Using instructional techniques

For tips on general communication skills, refer to Professional basics, pages 16–21.
Below are some specific tools for a short presentation. Remember, these tips would
also apply in a one-on-one session with a client:
Pace your speech pattern – try to speak slowly and clearly, rather than very
quickly, which is what often happens when you are nervous. Pace is literally
the speed of the words. A calm, slow, measured speech reflects reassurance
and confidence – the speaker is concentrating on getting across the message.
Although interest and enthusiasm are important, these can sometimes lead to

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a more rapid delivery. Panic, anxiety and lack of confidence can produce fast,
muddled speech.
Do not be afraid of short pauses or silence while you are either allowing the
information to sink in, or you are concentrating on applying the make-up. Break up
the silence if you think it has gone on too long by commentary such as ‘Always
apply foundation after the skin has been moisturised. Allow the moisturiser to be
absorbed for a few seconds before continuing with the foundation …’
Pauses can be either a comfortable silence, allowing reflection upon what has
been said, or can be very awkward, even menacing. Judging a pause and knowing
when to break it, takes a little patience and skill. Hesitation in speech patterns
may indicate uncertainty or stress, or just tiredness, where the brain function is
slowing down.

Unit B8/B9
Varying the tone of your voice enlivens speech and helps retain the listeners’
attention. Flat, boring tones will not engage the audience and will not help them
understand what is being said to them.
Pitch is most noticeable when it is either high or low, and often reflects the
emotional state of the person. Someone who is depressed often talks in a low,
failing pitch, quite slowly, whereas a raised pitch conveys excitement, enthusiasm
or anxiety. Voice coaches recommend to people in the public eye, who have to
make a lot of speeches, to lower the pitch slightly and slow down their normal
rate and rhythm of speech.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
The use of graphics, a PowerPoint® display (if you have the technology and the
facilities are available) or pictures of make-up products and skincare products
along with demonstration samples add interest.
Make plenty of eye contact and try not to focus on one person as this may
make them uncomfortable. Include everyone in your field of vision. Whether
undertaking a group presentation or working with a client on a one-to-one basis,
ensure that you give them your full attention. Focus on them when they are
talking and be encouraging when they try out new techniques and products.
Respond kindly when asked questions. Listen carefully listen to the query, rather
than interrupting the person, and nod to show you have understood. If you answer
one person well, it encourages others to ask questions, too.
As well as talking through your demonstration, remember not to stand in front of
the model as you are working – the audience will not be able to see. You need to
perfect the art of working at the side so that your actions are plain to see, and you
can stop at each stage to show the audience or client the type of effect. For example,
‘After foundation and powder application, the skin tone is even and blemishes are
well covered, but the colour comes with the application of blusher, lipstick and eye
products, so don’t expect too much colour in the face at this time.’ Then show the
audience your ‘blank canvas’, with just foundation and powder on.
These are just a few pointers to help you prepare and carry out a presentation and
these techniques can be used when working with smaller groups and one to one.
You may need to adapt your methods of communication to meet the needs of the
client and the size of your audience to make sure that they fully understand. To aid
your explanation you should also explain the purpose of the tools and products – a
thorough explanation could boost your retail sales.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Apply make-up products

In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing make-up products suitable for the client’s age group, skin type, tone and condition
and the occasion
• using equipment correctly following manufacturers’ instructions
• using foundation that is suitable for the client’s underlying skin tone
• applying any necessary foundations to create an even skin tone without demarcation lines
• ensuring any skin blemishes are effectively disguised using the correct colour and
consistency of concealer
• using a suitable powder to achieve the desired finish
Unit B8/B9 application

• using suitable eye products, when used, to define and shape the eyebrow
• using eyeshadows of a suitable texture, tone and colour for the client and the look
required evenly blending eyeshadows and applying them in a way to enhance and
balance the client’s eye shape
• using eyeliners in a way that enhances the client’s eye area and is suitable for the look
required
• applying liquid eyeliners, when used, to leave a precise, clearly defined line with an even
flow of colour
• leaving lashes evenly coated with mascara from base to tip, separated and without
transfer to the surrounding skin
• using cheek products of a suitable texture, tone and colour for the client
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

• ensuring cheeks are left with an evenly blended finish with the product positioned to
enhance the client’s natural face shape and the look required
• using lip products in a way that enhances the client’s lips and is suitable for the look
required
• applying strong coloured lipsticks and lip liner, when used, to leave a clearly defined
of skincare products and make-up

shape, with evenly balanced colour

• ensuring all elements of the make-up combine to complement each other to create the
desired image in a way that flatters the client
• ensuring the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction.

Refer to Unit B4 for the correct skin care products to suit the skin type of the client.
You will need to take into account the client’s age, texture and skin tone. A suitable
product will provide the correct canvas to ensure that the make-up lasts throughout
the day
To achieve a successful make-up application whatever the occasion, you need to
understand how and when to apply make-up products. The following pages introduce
you to the main kinds of make-up products before giving step-by-step guides to make-
up application for various occasions and times of day.

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 Practical skills

Salon life
My story
My name is Yvette and I trained as a Beauty therapist six years ago. I knew
from the start that make-up would be my passion and since qualifying I have
developed my own business promoting skincare and make-up to a variety of
people. I find the work very rewarding and diverse especially when presenting to
groups. I also undertake wedding, prom and special event make-up which is great

Unit B8/B9
fun. When I first started I decided to keep a notebook of my ideas and thoughts
and I still use it to this day. It helps me with inspiration for new ideas – I cut out
and keep clippings of pictures that have inspired me and pictures of work that I
have done. It is also useful for jotting down ideas prior to using them on clients or
you could collect together the ideas as a book for your clients.

Benefits to client and therapist ASK THE EXPERTS

Benefits of make-up application for the client: I sometimes struggle trying to find the correct
Q

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
• Effect of treatment is immediately visible shade of foundation. Do you have any tips that
• Sessions can be tailored to meet individual requirements would help me?
offering a more personalised service A Remember, if you can’t find the correct shade
• Hands-on opportunities for client within a make-up and of foundation then you can blend your own
shades by mixing two or more colours together
skincare lesson to ensure correct procedure is used at
on a palette to obtain the right match. Use the
home
colour wheel to help you remember which colours
• Clients can try different products and ask questions neutralise one another in order to get the right
Benefits of make-up application for the therapist: result.

• Can be offered individually or to larger groups Don’t test foundation colour on the hand, as hands
tend to be a completely different colour to the face.
• Group work allows the therapist to capture more Test foundations on the jaw line for an accurate colour
potential client data, therefore increasing revenue match. There is also nothing to stop you using different
• Allows therapist to link sell products and other colour foundations for shading and highlighting
purposes and to correct certain features.
treatments

Top tips
• For a flawless make-up application, a good base is essential and preparation is the key. A gentle daily exfoliant should
be used after the cleanse to ensure the skin is smooth. This will prevent the foundation looking patchy.
• A great way to get the client to try a recommended product is to provide them with a small sample. This will allow
them to try the product and see the results they get. Always write it on the client record so that you can follow up at
the next visit.
• A small packet of shine paper is an excellent recommendation for a client who has an oily T–zone. Just press the paper
over the oily area to remove excess grease and then finish with a pressed powder.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Sequence of make-up application

Concealer
This should be one or two shades lighter than the natural skin tone. Apply to the
relevant area using a small brush or cotton bud. Press into the skin with a dry
sponge. This applies both to the coverage of blemishes and to colour-corrective
concealer. When using colour-corrective concealer (see page 380 for details) only
apply to the areas that require it.

Key terms
Concealer – used to hide imperfections and to lighten and brighten areas.
Unit B8/B9 application

Available in many shades.

Foundation
The ideal shade will match the natural skin tone exactly – test the shade on the
jawline. Work around the face using a damp sponge and fingertips, remembering
to cover the eyelids and lips.
When you have finished, remove excess foundation from the hairline and eyebrows
with some damp cotton wool.

Face powder
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Tip a small amount of loose powder into a bowl. If using block powder, scrape a
small amount off into a bowl and apply with dry cotton wool. Work downwards,
covering the eyes and all of the face, and then blend with a powder brush.
of skincare products and make-up

Blusher and bronzing products

Remove a small amount of blusher or bronzer from the container and place on
a make-up palette. Imagine a line from the centre of the eye to the cheekbones
– blusher stops here. To apply, start at the hairline and follow the line to the
cheekbones. Work down the face in the same direction as the facial hair. If
corrective work needs to be carried out, apply according to the face shape. (See
pages 384–87 for further information on contouring.)
Bronzers can be used to give the skin a sun-kissed look and can be applied to
areas where the sun ‘kisses’ the face, such as the nose, chin and forehead.

Eyebrow pencil
Apply pencil if required. Brush brows to shape.

Eyeliner or kohl pencil

This can be applied to give definition to the eyes. A pencil creates a softer look,
and can be used on the top and bottom lids. A liquid liner gives a more defined
look, but is not always suitable for the more mature client (see page 390).

Eyeshadow
Place a folded tissue under the eyes – this will help to avoid
shadow spillage on to the face. Apply individual eyeshadow
colours. Blend on completion.

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Mascara
Coat both sides of the lashes from base
to tip using a disposable brush. Remove
any specks with a cotton wool bud.

Lipliner
Apply to the outline of the lips. Ensure
that colour is close to that of the lipstick,
to avoid a harsh line.

Lipstick
Use a disposable lip brush. After the first
coat, blot lightly and dust lips with face Think about it

Unit B8/B9
powder. Apply second coat.
To minimise the risk of skin damage,
Moisturisers you can use a moisturising product
containing UVA and UVB sunscreens
These products come in many forms and your choice will depend on the skin type of
which protect against sunlight.
the client. The purpose of a moisturiser when worn under make-up is to:
These can be tinted to provide an
even out the skin texture, and provide a smooth base for the foundation alternative to foundation.
prolong the make-up by fixing it to the skin
act as a barrier between the skin and the make-up by preventing pigmented
products entering the pores, aiding cleansing.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Concealing cosmetics
Concealer
Few people have a complexion without some imperfections or areas they wish to
change – this can be done by using a concealer. Concealer should be applied on
small areas where necessary before the application of foundation. Use a colour
nearest to the natural skin colour. Concealers come in various forms.

Cream concealer (camouflage)

Usually containing talc and kaolin, these creams have a thick consistency which
completely covers all blemishes – including pigmentation marks, red birthmarks and
dark shadows under the eyes. These creams come in a variety of colours that can be
blended to match the skin.

Stick cover
These come in various shades to match the skin tone and are used to mask minor
blemishes and imperfections (spots, dark circles under the eyes). They can be either
oil-based or water-based.

Medicated sticks
These are available for applying to minor spots and blemishes, containing antiseptic
and drying agents. Never apply directly onto the skin as contamination or cross-
infection may occur.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Yellow Liquids
Liquid concealers are better for more mature skins where there are creases or
Green Orange
wrinkles, as cream or stick concealers can clog in these areas, emphasising them.
When covering crow’s feet it may be best to use an anti-wrinkle product.

Neutral Correcting colour

Pigmentation creams can be used to help correct natural skin tone.
Green is used to counteract high colour (redness).
Blue Red
Lilac/pink brightens a sallow complexion.
Peach is used to conceal blue veins and pigmentation.
Mauve
Unit B8/B9 application

The colour star

The colour star shows how opposite colours neutralise – for a basic corrective colour.
Key terms
So, for sallow or yellow complexions, rather than applying corrective cream all over
Colour star – also known as the face a tinted moisturiser containing lavender, lilac or mauve could be used.
colour wheel; a chart showing the
relationship of colours to each other. Primary colours Secondary colours

Red Green

Think about it Yellow Orange

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

When using colour corrector cream, Blue Mauve

only apply to the area of the face
where it is required. The range of colours for both Asian and African skins is vast. However, the skin may
Apply foundation over it, using contain primary colours so a product should be selected with the same primary
colour. The range includes:
of skincare products and make-up

a tapping action to prevent the

corrector cream spreading and to pale olive warm brown/red
ensure you achieve a smooth finish.
yellow brown
greeny olive grey brown
warm russet blue black.
A tinted product could be used if required and may be a more suitable alternative
than a heavier foundation. Imperfections on darker skin types are often less obvious
than on white skin. Therefore the make-up that is applied should be mainly to
enhance facial features rather than to conceal imperfections.
If loss of pigmentation is present (seen as lighter patches – vitiligo), a camouflage
product may be required to disguise the pigmentation loss and to provide an even skin
tone and base for the application of the other products.

Choosing a suitable foundation

A good foundation is probably the most important product when carrying out a
make-up. The depth, tone and colour can affect all the products used. Foundations
also provide a barrier to protect the skin and many now incorporate a sunscreen.
A foundation is therefore used to:
protect the skin
conceal minor blemishes and imperfections

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 Practical skills

provide a smooth finish

enhance the natural skin colour.

Choosing a foundation for the client’s skin colour and tone

The foundation should match the facial skin, but this is not always the case when the
hair has been dyed and the colour and tone have been altered.
The therapist should be aware of various tones that occur naturally in the skin.
The tone of the skin is created by pigmentation in the epidermis. Skin is therefore
described as:
light
medium (containing neutral, pink, red or blue tones)

Unit B8/B9
dark.
You can match a foundation colour to any skin shade:
neutral tones (match or add warmth: honey, gold, tan)
pink/red tones (beige, olive)
yellow/blue (rose, gold, bronze)
dark tones (dark bronze, sun bronze, deep peach)
medium tones (cool beige, soft beige, tan).
It is important to get a good colour match when selecting your foundation – you do

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
not want your client to look fake with an orange face or have a ghostly appearance. It
is worth remembering that there are many different variations in skin tone, so choose
carefully. This may take you a little time or may require you to mix two or more
colours together to achieve the desired shade and tone.
To test a foundation on your client for the first time, apply to the angle of the jawline.
If the colour becomes darker or has an orange tone, you will need to choose a paler
or cooler shade of foundation for your client.

Types of foundation
Foundations are available in many forms:
cream medicated
liquid mousse
cake and pan cake mineral.
gel
Most are oil-based or water-based with the addition of pigments for colouring and
other ingredients to enhance and change their texture and aid the effectiveness of the
product.

Cream foundations
This type of foundation blends easily on the skin because of the oil base, and
contains wax, powder and a humectant (a product added to keep it moist), such as
glycerol. This type of product gives medium coverage and is suitable for normal, dry,
combination and mature skins. For a good finish this foundation should always be set
with loose powder.

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Liquid foundations
These foundations provide colour without being too heavy. They contain a higher
proportion of water and give a light/medium coverage. In some products the oil is
replaced with alcohol, which evaporates leaving only the powder and pigment. They
are suitable for different skin types:
oil-based – normal, dry and mature skin types
water-based – combination greasy
alcohol – greasy.
The base of the foundation should be marked on the container.

Cake foundations
Unit B8/B9 application

These foundations are usually applied with a damp sponge, thinly or thickly as
required by adjusting the amount of water used on the sponge. Cake foundations
usually contain compressed creams with extra powder for good coverage. Cake
foundations give medium/heavy coverage suitable for:
normal skin
combination skin
blotchy, blemished, discoloured or scarred areas
dry or mature (cream-based)
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

greasy (powder-based).

Pan cake foundation

This product is used a lot in the Far East as it is suitable for humid climates. The
of skincare products and make-up

colour that appears in the compact is the colour that will appear on the skin.

Gel foundations
A gel product will provide a thin, translucent colour that gives a natural look. Gels are
produced like a liquid foundation but have an additional ingredient to produce a gel
consistency, such as gum tragacanth.
Gels produce a natural tanned effect and are very popular in the summer; many now
contain sunscreens. They are suitable for:
tanned skins smooth skin with no imperfections, requiring a natural effect.

Medicated foundations
This type of foundation is a liquid containing antiseptic ingredients, making it suitable
for greasy, blemished skins. It can be used over mild acne, but care should be taken
with hygiene. It is worth remembering that severe acne is a contra-indication to a
make-up application.
For your portfolio
Look at one range of cosmetics Mousse foundations
available locally and see what types
This type of foundation is suitable for combination to normal skin. Most are made
of foundation they offer. Are you
with mineral oils, although some are made with herbal extracts. This type of
able to buy suitable products for all
foundation can be slightly more expensive to buy. If you do apply this foundation to
skin types and skin colours?
oily skin, be aware that it can be streaky if not carefully applied.

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Mineral foundations
These products are derived from natural sources and give long-lasting colour. They
are excellent for oily skin types as they help prevent comedomes and blemishes.

Skin type Recognition Suitable foundation

Normal Small pores, fine texture Cream/powder

Soft supple, flexible healthy

Dry/dehydrated Matt, uneven texture Cream

Lacks suppleness
Lines and wrinkles
Dilated capillaries common on nose and cheeks

Unit B8/B9
Oily Shiny, thick blackheads, papules, pustules Medicated liquid foundation
Open pores Mineral foundation
Non oily block/cake

Combination Any combination of skin types – most common: All-in-one fluid and powder combination
oily T-zone and dry cheeks Cream/powder combination

Sensitive/dry Combination of dry cheeks and sensitivity Hypoallergenic products

Tight red appearance, broken capillaries

Sensitive/allergy prone Reacts to products Hypoallergenic products

Skin flushes easily, which may appear as patches

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Dilated capillaries

Mature Fine lines, crepey skin Cream-based products

Poor muscle tone
Broken capillaries
Dry, thin and papery
Pigmentation marks

Summary of the most suitable foundations for the different skin types

Airbrush application
Many cosmetic houses and salons are now using airbrush applicators to apply
foundation. The foundation is selected in the normal way to suit the client’s skin
colour and tones, and is then sprayed over the face. This form of application provides
a flawless finish with no sponge or finger marks, and is excellent for bridal or
photographic make-up.

Cautions when applying foundation

Apply with a clean sponge or flat brush – these help when You need to work quickly or the foundation will streak. Cover
applying to awkward areas such as nose or eyes. Thin eyes and lips as this will provide a good base for eyeshadow
coverage can be achieved by using a slightly damp, natural and lipstick. When applying foundation to a more mature
sponge. This type of sponge can, however, leave streaks client, who may have crepey skin around the neck and eyes,
because it is porous, so careful blending needs to take place. add a little moisturiser – this thins out the foundation and
When a heavier coverage is required a latex sponge provides helps to prevent creases.
a smooth finish; a latex sponge is also less expensive. Check the application around the nose, hairline and chin to
Blend the foundation from the centre of the face to the ensure smooth application and no visible lines.
hairline; this prevents clogging foundation in the hairline.

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Face powder
For a really professional appearance, most cream-based, make-up products should
be set with powder. Loose powder should be used for all professional make-up
applications and the correct shade of pressed powder supplied for retail purchase by
the client. A powder is applied to:
‘fix’ the foundation protect the skin
absorb grease reduce shine
give a smooth, matt finish help conceal minor blemishes.

Loose powder
Loose powders come in two different textures: heavy and fine.
Unit B8/B9 application

Heavy powders are often pigmented to complement the foundation and

give a good cover; they contain a high proportion of kaolin and chalk.
Fine powders contain talc and a majority are translucent, which allows
the colour of the skin or foundation to show through.
Some powders contain metallic particles for a pearlised effect, suitable for evening
wear. If you decide to use a pearlised powder, remember that it will accentuate lines
Loose powder should be used for all and blemishes, so it will not be suitable for mature or blemished skins.
professional make-up applications
Loose powder should always be applied in a salon in preference to pressed powder
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

because of hygiene. If, however, you apply pressed powder it should be decanted on
to a palette before being applied, to prevent contamination.

Pressed powder
of skincare products and make-up

This is a product in a block that fits into a compact. The binding agent is usually gum
or wax, which joins the particles together. Pressed powder is used for touching up the
make-up during the day; however, this powder is not fine enough to produce an even
finish on freshly applied foundation.
Always avoid areas with excessive hair growth as powder will collect there and draw
attention to the area. Also avoid applying to dry flaking areas, because the area will
dry out further and it will be accentuated.

Cautions when applying powder

• D ispense a small amount on to a palette.
• Firmly screw up a cotton wool pad and press into the powder, shake off excess in rolling
movements, gently press into the foundation, covering all areas including eyes and lips.
• Remove any excess with a brush – first against the hair growth and then down the face
to smooth the facial hairs and produce an even finish.
• Use a clean brush to remove any powder that has settled on the lashes or eyebrows.

Contouring cosmetics
These are a range of products which are similar to foundations and powders, with the
Key terms addition of coloured pigments. They come in powder, liquid, cream and gel. Contour
cosmetics consist of:
Highlighter – used to lighten,
blushers    highlighters    shaders.
brighten and accentuate an area.

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Blushers
Blushers add warmth to the make-up and give the skin a healthy glow to help define
the facial features. They come in a wide range of colours. Pale colours can be used
to soften and highlight areas. Bright colours can accentuate, and deep tawny colours
and bronzes can shade areas. Blushers also come in a variety of forms, including
mineral-based products, gels, creams and powders.

Gels
Best on clear skins.
Give cheeks a natural-looking, healthy glow.
Good for the summer.

Unit B8/B9
Can be applied directly over moisturiser. Blushers add warmth and give a
healthy glow; highlighters emphasis
features
Creams
Give skins a moist, dewy finish.
Work best when applied over moisturisers and foundation.
Good for normal or dry skin types.

Powders
Matt or frosted finishes available.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Applied for best results over powder with a large brush.
Good on oily skins, but suitable for all skin types.
When choosing a blusher it should complement the foundation or natural skin tone.
When applying a blusher it is best to build up the colour gradually to achieve the
desired effect. It is the depth and tone of colour that needs to be selected carefully. Think about it
To check if the colour of the product
The use of blusher can help to alter the shape of the face. If you wish to reduce the
is strong enough to show up
width of the face, but give an illusion of length, keep the blusher to the side of the
effectively, take a small amount of
face, blending from just underneath the cheekbones to the temples. To create extra
the colour on to your finger – if the
fullness, apply the blusher to the cheeks or blend from the angle of the cheekbones
colour on your finger has the same
to the ears. If you do not wish to change the shape of the face, the blusher is usually
depth as the compact, the colour is
placed on or near the cheekbones. suitable.
Highlighters
Highlighters are used to emphasise features and to create the illusion of extra length
and width. The pale colours of highlighters reflect light, brighten and accentuate an
area. Use white, ivory and cream on pale skins for a subtle effect. When using a
highlighter on a dark foundation it should belong to the same tone family:
pale pink over rose shades
pale peach over warm foundations.
Pearlised products are effective as highlighters, but avoid these on mature skins or
hairy areas as they will draw attention to the areas.

Shaders Key terms

Shading is used to create artificial shadows or to reduce the size of areas. The colours Shader – used to reduce the size of
suitable for shading contain brown pigments, which range from medium beige to dark an area and to change the shape of
brown. Beige is dark enough to shade when used over a pale base. the face.

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It is important to remember that the darker the foundation, the deeper the shade
needs to be. Warm brown colours should be avoided as a shader as they tend to look
orange when applied over foundation and then act as a blusher.

Cautions when applying contouring products

• U se soft, round-ended brushes that make blending easier.
• Tap any excess powder blusher on to a tissue or palette before applying, for a more
subtle application. It is easier to build up colour in this way.
• When using a gel or cream apply with a damp sponge.
• Blusher application should start on the cheekbones level with the midpoint of the eye.
• Regularly check you are achieving a balanced effect.
• Keep blusher and highlighter away from the corners and the lines of the eye as they
Unit B8/B9 application

can accentuate fine lines.

• Ensure contouring is subtle for day wear for a natural appearance.
• Use corrective techniques to try to achieve a balance in the facial features. This helps
emphasise the best areas and takes attention away from problem areas.
Think about it
Light colours define areas. Corrective make-up
Dark colours make areas recede. Contouring products can be used effectively to emphasise and diminish areas to
achieve the desired face shape. The oval face shape with almond-shaped eyes is
Key terms often admired, although trends change with fashion and very few people truly fall
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

into that category. When carrying out your consultation, ensure that both you and
Recede – disappear.
your client have realistic expectations about what you can achieve.

Oval face shape Round face shape Square face shape Oblong face shape
of skincare products and make-up

Highlighter Blusher Highlighter Highlighter Highlighter Highlighter Shader

Shader

Blusher
Blusher Shader Blusher Shader
Shader Shader

The aim of any corrective The corrective work should The aim of the corrective The corrective make-up
make-up is to enhance create an illusion of length work is to soften the jawline should reduce the length of
bone structure and balance – to reduce the width from and reduce the width of the the face, and create width
contours by blending blusher the sides of the face to the forehead and lower half of and fullness. This can be
along the cheekbones temples. To create length – the face. Shader should be achieved by applying shader
towards the temples, subtle highlighter blended blended over the angles of to the tip of the chin and
applying shader below and in a narrow strip down the the lower jaw and forehead. the narrowest part of the
highlighter above. centre of the face, apply Blusher should be applied forehead. Apply highlighter
blusher on the cheekbones up upwards from under the to the temples and lower jaw
to the temples, shader over cheeks towards the temples and blusher to the cheeks to
angles of the jaw and temple or along the fullness of the add fullness.
areas. cheeks.

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Heart face shape Diamond face shape Pear face shape Triangular face shape
Highlighter Shader Highlighter Shader Highlighter Shader Highlighter

Blusher

Blusher
Blusher
Shader Shader Blusher

Unit B8/B9
The corrective work should The corrective work of this The aim of this corrective This corrective make-up
aim to minimise the width face shape is to reduce the make-up is to give width to is similar to that used on
of the forehead and widen length by applying shader the forehead by applying a heart-shaped face. The
the lower half of the face. to the tip of the chin and highlighter to the sides of relatively wide forehead
This can be achieved by the narrowest part of the the forehead and to reduce and narrow jawline need to
applying shader to the sides forehead. To give the illusion the width of the lower face be balanced to prevent the
of the forehead and temples. of width, apply highlighter to through the application of face from looking top heavy.
Highlight the angles of the the sides of the temples and shader on the side of the chin Use shader to minimise the
lower jaw. Apply blusher to lower jaw. Apply blusher to and angles of the lower jaw. forehead width and create

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
the fullness of the cheeks. the cheeks to create fullness Emphasise the cheekbones the illusion of width along
in the centre of the face. for a full appearance. the jawline by applying
highlighter. Use blusher on
the cheeks to balance the
centre of the face and even
up the whole shape.

Eye cosmetics Think about it

The eyes are the focal point of the face. People often focus on the eye make-up as Foundation may also be used
the eyes are used for communicating and expressing our feelings. The trick when to change the shape of an area,
applying make-up is to draw attention to the eyes and not to the make-up. minimise or make it less noticeable.
To do this, use a foundation two
The use of colour can create illusions of depth, size and alter the shape. Always
or three shades darker than the
remember that lighter colours enhance, darker colours recede. natural skin colour and blend into
Care is always needed when working around the eyes, as the skin is very sensitive the ordinary foundation with either a
and thin and can be easily overstretched. The EC Cosmetics Directive of 1976 limits sponge or brush.
ingredients which may be contained in eye make-up products and only pigments
which are known to be non-toxic and non-irritant are allowed.

Eyeshadow
Eyeshadows are used to emphasise the eyes and to coordinate the colour of the
make-up and clothing. They are available as minerals, powder, liquid, gel and cream.
Creamy, pressed powders are the most popular. Frosted products are available for
highlighting and can be used to achieve a stunning effect when used for evening.
However, frosted and creamy products are not recommended for mature clients as
they draw attention to lines and get trapped in crepey areas.

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Powder shadows
These are talc-based with oil for a creamy texture, available in loose or pressed form.

Creams
Cream shadow contains wax and oil pigments, and is not so popular with mature
clients as these products settle in the creases.

Gels
Gels give a natural appearance because they produce a translucent wash of colour.

Eyeshadow colours
Unit B8/B9 application

Dark, muted colours – use for defining and contouring. Effective on clients with
dark hair and eyes. Applied with a fine brush, they can be used as a livening
effect on people with light colouring.
Pastel colours – produce soft effects, particularly on people with grey/blonde hair.
They emphasise the colour of the eyes when applied in the same tone.
Pale colours – have highlighting effects when contrasted with dark shadows.
When applied near the brow makes the eyes appear bigger.
Soft, muted shades – use when a more natural effect is required.
Bright colours – use in young or fashion make-up. Some bright colours can be
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

used as eyeliner to complement the eyeshadow, but be cautious when using

bright colours on a mature client as they can give a hard and unattractive
appearance.
of skincare products and make-up

Applying eyeshadow to a range of eye shapes

Small eyes
Lengthen small eyes by applying a soft eye pencil to the outer third of the bottom
Iridescent Darker eye
shadow to lid extending outward. Use a short stroke to join this line to the upper lash line, then
light
lengthen smudge.
Use light colours and iridescent shadows on the lid for an eye-opening effect.
Highlight with a frosted shadow under the brow for evening sparkle.
Curl the lashes or have them permed before applying the mascara to open the
Lengthen outer
White eye eyes even more.
top and bottom
pencil Try lining the inside of the lower lid with a soft, white pencil – this will also give
with pencil
the appearance of the eye being more open.

Prominent eyes
Highlight with Darker matt Use matt shadow on the lid and blend it into the crease. Apply a darker shade to
frosted shadow shadow the outer half of the lid, right over the first shade, and blend so the graduation looks
natural and no harsh lines are visible. Highlight under the brow with a light or frosted
Matt
shade.
shadow
If you wish to achieve a sultry look, which may be suitable for evening wear, line the
inner rim of the eye with a soft eye pencil. Grey, navy, plum and black are excellent
Line inside
depending on the eye colour, but there are many more colours to choose from.
with colour

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Round eyes Darker matt shadow

Matt shadow on outer 1/3 of eye
Elongate the eyes by using the deepest shades on the outer edge of the eye lid, and on lid
extend this to form a soft point. Lengthen the eyes even more by outlining the outer
third of the top and bottom with a soft eye pencil, making sure that the outer point
meets beyond the outer corner of the eye. Smudge for a softer effect. Narrow the
Line outer
eyes by lining the inner rim with a soft pencil.
1/3 top and
Line with bottom with
Deep-set eyes Light or frosted Darker matt pencil pencil to
shadow on lid shadow elongate
Use light or frosted shadows on the lid if it is
appropriate for the client and occasion. Apply
a darker shade above the crease to recess this
area. Apply a little shadow or soft eye pencil

Unit B8/B9
on the outer half of the bottom lid to balance
the depth of the eyes.
Highlight with
frosted shadow
Oriental eyes
Divide the area beneath the brow in half vertically. Use a lighter shade on the inner
half and a darker shade on the outer half and blend well together. The application of
a darker shadow creates a socket line. Apply a highlighter under the brow and blend
together.
Light shade Darker shade

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Highlighter
Almond eyes
Unless the eyes are set too close together
Darker
or too far apart, you will not need to shadow
undertake corrective techniques. Choose Light
colours that complement the iris, and shadow
ensure the brows are groomed to make
application of shadows easy. Lining pencil Highlighter

Close-set eyes
Keep all medium or dark colours on the outer half of the eye. This will draw attention Lighter
outward and the eyes will seem further apart. Ensure that the brows have been shadow Darker
correctly shaped to maximise the space between the eyes. shadow

Wide-set eyes
Darker
Extend the shadows to the inner shadow
corner of the eye and blend inwards
Lighter
to the bridge of the nose to minimise shadow
the space. Also ensure the brows are
correctly shaped.

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Cautions when applying eyeshadow

• Always use clean brushes and applicators. Do not overload the applicator with shadow
as excess powder could fall into the eyes or on to the face – spoiling the other make-up.
It is also not cost-effective to overload the applicator.
• Support the skin and protect the surrounding make-up with a tissue. Remember that the
skin around the eye is very delicate, so do not be heavy handed and over-stretch the skin.
• Ensure your client keeps her eyes closed when applying the shadow and always keep the
client informed of what you are about to do. Check the shadow is balanced on both eyes
and evenly blended. If applying shadow beneath the eyes, ask the client to look away
from the brush to prevent blinking or the eyes watering.
Unit B8/B9 application

Eyeliner
This product is used for emphasising the shape of the eyelid and strengthening the
colour of the lash line. It is good to use when strip lashes have been applied to give a
more natural appearance. Liners are available in a number of colours and types. Like
all make-up, eyeliner follows fashion trends. It was very popular in the 1950s and
1960s, and is currently enjoying a revival.

Cake eyeliner
This is the most versatile product but the most difficult to apply. It is applied with a
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

fine brush that is dampened before applying to the eyes.

Liquid eyeliner
This is a gum solution containing pigments, which gives a heavier effect. It will
of skincare products and make-up

provide a clearly defined line if correctly applied.

Pencils
These are available in a range of colours, usually soft enough to blend with the
shadows because of their wax formulation, and should be used to complement the
look that is required. Ensure they are sharpened between each eye to get an even
application and to prevent cross-infection.

Kohl
This is a soft, waxy, black pencil which is applied to the inner rim of the lower eyelid
to enhance the white of the eye. A kohl pencil is not recommended for use on a
mature client as the effect can be harsh and can accentuate fine lines.

Cautions when applying eyeliner

•  ently lift the skin from beneath the brow so the line is drawn up to the base of the lashes.
G
• Ensure the client keeps the eyes shut when liner is applied to the upper lid.
• Always apply liner outwards towards the corner of the eye.
• Check that the thickness and angle of the eyeliner are the same for both eyes.

Mascara
Mascaras are available in a variety of colours – including clear mascara. Mascara
is used to accentuate the eyes by darkening and thickening the lashes. Many now
contain moisturisers and lash-building ingredients which include filaments of nylon

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and rayon. These fibres temporarily lengthen the lashes. Clear mascara enhances
Think about it
the natural features of darkened lashes and is especially useful after the lashes have
been tinted. Always check to see if your client
wears contact lenses, even if they
When applying mascara with lash-building filaments be aware that the filaments arrive at the salon wearing glasses.
can sometimes shed. If these enter the eye, they can cause irritation and this can Lash tinting may be a preferred
especially aggravate the eyes of contact lens wearers. option for spectacle and contact lens
wearers.
Cake mascara
Cake mascara is made up of a mixture of waxes and pigments in a soap base, and
is applied with a brush. This type of mascara is gaining popularity again in salons as
the brush applicator can easily be cleaned and sterilised.

Unit B8/B9
Liquid mascara
Applied with a brush or wand, this type of mascara is contained in a water or alcohol
and water base with extra features: for example, waterproof, thickening, and protein
enriched. Read the packaging to find out what the mascara contains. When applying
this type of mascara to a client, disposable brushes should be used for each eye to
prevent any contamination of the product.

Cautions when applying mascara

• E nsure that the client is relaxed as this makes the application of mascara easier –

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
especially to the upper lashes.
• Apply mascara downwards on upper lashes and then upwards for maximum coverage.
• Place tissue under lower lashes, before applying, to prevent mascara marking the
a Separate brow hairs
skin.
• Instruct the client to look away from the wand when applying the mascara to the
lower lashes.
• Build up the mascara in fine coats to prevent clogging. Allow to dry between
applications.

Eyebrow pencils
These pencils are used to strengthen the colour of the brows and define shape. They
should be applied to the brow in light, feathery strokes for a natural look. The use of
an eyebrow pencil is good for filling in bare areas if the brows are sparse. Use short
strokes in the direction of the hair growth and blend into the natural brow shape with b Smooth them into shape
the aid of a brow brush.
Eyebrow pencils are produced in a limited range of colours to complement the natural
brow colour. As with other pencils they should be sharpened after each eye to prevent
cross-contamination occurring.

Cautions when using eyebrow pencils

• B rush brows into shape.
• Check the colour tone and shade of the pencil – this should look natural and
complement the rest of the make-up.
c Fill in the gaps and extend
 nsure the pencils are sharpened after doing each brow, to prevent cross-
• E the length of the brow by
contamination, and ensure feathery strokes are used rather than one harsh line for a using fine strokes that follow
natural look. the natural hair growth

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For your portfolio Lip cosmetics

Research one high street and one There is a variety of cosmetics on the market for lips, in a range of colours and forms.
professional brand of cosmetics to There are lipsticks, glosses and pencils. These are used to define the mouth, by
compare the cost of the products and adding colour, and to protect the lips from the environment. Lip cosmetics can, as
the variety of colour choice. Consider with other forms of make-up, be used as corrective make-up to enhance shape. All
factors such as skin type and age lip products contain the same ingredients of oils, fats and waxes, with the addition of
range. safe pigments for colour.

Lipsticks
These contain a high wax content that makes them hard. Some products also contain
sunscreens to protect the delicate skin of the lips from ultraviolet light. Lipstick
should be applied with a brush to outline the mouth and spread colour over the lips
Unit B8/B9 application

evenly.

Lip gloss
This product can be used over lipstick or on its own for a natural look. It is usually of
a gel consistency and is available in either lipstick form or as a gel.

Lip pencil
This is used for outlining the lips before applying lipstick and contains a high
proportion of wax, which means it is less likely to smudge. It is useful to prevent
lipstick colour from ‘bleeding’ into the fine lines around the mouth. It is also helpful
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

for correcting lip shapes.

Lipstick sealer
Usually produced as a liquid, this is a colourless sealer, designed to prevent lipstick
of skincare products and make-up

fading and to keep it in place. It should be applied with a brush.

Lip primer
This is used mainly for mature clients to prevent ‘lipstick bleeding’.

Choosing a suitable lipstick

When selecting a lipstick it should be used to balance the colour scheme and
coordinate with the clothing. Strong and vibrant colours draw attention to the mouth,
so avoid them if you are trying to take the emphasis away from the mouth or jaw
area. Strong colours look best with subtle and muted eye make-up colours.
Deep-colour lipstick or pencil should be used when outlining a corrective lip make-up.
Pale, pearlised lipstick or lip gloss give lips a fuller appearance.
To reduce fullness, bronze, purplish pinks and blue-toned reds are useful.

Cautions when applying lip cosmetics

• A pply foundation and powder to the lips before applying lip cosmetics.
This gives a good base and makes lip cosmetics last longer.
• Outline the mouth first and then fill in the colour.
• Blot the first application with a tissue as this helps to fix the colour.
• Apply a second coat for a final finish.
• Never apply lip cosmetics to any infected area or if the lips are excessively
chapped or cracked.

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Corrective lip make-up

Thin lips
The thickness of the lips can be increased by drawing a line slightly outside the
natural lip shape.
Thin lips
Full or thick lips
Use dark colours to make the lips recede and create a new lip line inside the natural
one by blotting out the natural line with foundation and powder.

Thin or straight upper lip

Create a new bow to the upper lip by pencilling just above the natural line to add

Unit B8/B9
fullness. Full or thick lips

Thin lower lip

Create a new lower lip line slightly below the natural lip to give balance to the mouth.

Asymmetric lips
These lips are unbalanced so create a lip line where required to achieve balance.
Thin or straight upper lip

Droopy mouth

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
Build up the corners of the lower lip, slightly extending upwards at the corners to
meet the upper lip line.

Facial problem areas Thin lower lip

Jawline shapes
Broad jaw
A broad jaw can be minimised by the use of a darker shader, starting from the
temple area down and over either side of the angle of the mandible (refer to Related
anatomy and physiology, page 225), bringing the centre of the face into sharper focus
and so creating a more balanced width.
Asymmetric lips
Narrow jaw
Narrow jaws are highlighted to create an illusion of width.

Square jaws
These can be shaded with a darker foundation applied to the width, to appear more
rounded. Droopy mouth
Chin and neck shapes
Prominent chin
A dark foundation or shader should be used on the chin, and sometimes a touch of
blusher can be just as effective.

Receding chin
A lighter foundation or a highlighter will make a receding chin appear more prominent.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Double chin
A double chin or loose skin should be shadowed, with a dark foundation or shader.

Thin neck
This should be highlighted to create the illusion of roundness and prominence.

Thick neck
This requires shading to make it appear smaller.

Nose shapes
Large or protruding nose
This is made smaller by applying a dark foundation or shader, blending it smoothly
Unit B8/B9 application

into a lighter foundation on the sides of the cheeks. Blusher should be kept away
from the nose.

Short nose
This is made narrower by shading the sides of the nostrils.

Long, thin nose

This can be broadened by applying a highlighter foundation down its centre to above
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

the tip, which is to be shaded.

Colour and skin pigmentation

Freckles and moles
These can be faded with the use of a good foundation or cream which is slightly
of skincare products and make-up

thicker. It must be toned into the rest of the foundation, otherwise it will stand out.

Age lines
Creases round the mouth and crow’s feet around the eyes can be softened by making
the eyes appear fuller. This is achieved by the use of a lighter coloured foundation
applied over the area. The crevices appear to be lifted out and less noticeable, but do
not apply too heavily or you will make the areas more noticeable.

Clients with contact lenses or glasses

The effects that glasses have on the appearance of the face and make-up will vary
according to the colour of frame, frame size and lenses.

Frames
Heavy frames – can take strong lip colour and eye make-up to help balance the
facial features.
Lightweight frames – ensure the colours are soft, using liner or mascara. Eyebrow
pencil to define the brows and lashes will look more subtle with this type of
frame. Bold colours will make light frames recede.
Coloured frames – make-up should complement them. Muted shades should be
used if the frames are very bright.

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 Practical skills

Lenses
Short sighted – these make the eyes appear smaller.
Long sighted – these lenses make the eyes look larger.
Tinted lenses – these lenses may change the colours of the make-up.

Contact lenses
Some clients are quite happy to have their lenses in place when the make-up takes place,
but you should always take the following precautions to prevent irritating the eyes.
Work gently.
Avoid heavy creams that could smear the lenses.
Avoid creating dust that could land on the contact lenses and irritate the eye, and

Unit B8/B9
always ensure the client keeps the eyes closed when applying powder shadow.
Use eye make-up shadows with a creamy pressed texture.
Use mascara without alcohol and added fibre filaments.

Make-up for day, evening and special occasions

Bridal make-up
Many brides have their make-up applied professionally so that they can be confident
of looking their best. Therefore, to ensure you give the best advice, a preliminary

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
consultation is essential. During the consultation you need to find out the following Think about it
details. The bride wants to look beautiful
The date and time of the wedding. The final appointment must be scheduled and radiant, but she also wants to be
within the overall preparations, as ideally make-up should be applied before the recognized – it is not the time for a
hair is dressed and the dress put on. dramatic change.

Details of the dress – design, colour and material. Colours will look stronger if
the dress is white. Lightweight fabrics need softer make-up than heavier fabrics.
Think about it
Hair style and headdress – this can affect the facial features.
When carrying out a bridal
Remember that lipstick and nail colours need to tone with the colour scheme of the make-up, a practice should always
dress and flowers. Pearlised products will emphasise flaws and defects and eye be carried out in daylight to ensure
make-up will lose definition in photographs. true colouring in order to make
When carrying out a wedding make-up, avoid stimulating the skin for 48 hours before certain all parties are satisfied.
the wedding. Shape eyebrows and apply individual lashes one or two days prior to
the wedding. Apply fake tan one or two days prior to the wedding if the dress is low
cut and reveals paler areas of the body.
It is important to promote waxing, manicure and pedicure treatments before the
wedding for a truly well-groomed appearance and for honeymoon preparation. Many
salons include wedding packages in their price lists that include these treatments.

Photographic make-up
Many large photographic studios now employ a make-up artist to help clients get the
best from their photographs. This service is included in the cost of the photographic
package. You need to consider the following points.
Lighting can be hot and make-up may melt, so do not apply a heavy make-up,
and cool the skin if possible during application.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy


Avoid greasy products and creamy, textured products as these
emphasise shine, creases and open pores.
Reapply translucent powder to achieve a matt finish.
Pearlised products can cause glare and emphasise flaws.
 nsure that all products are well blended. This is particularly
E
important around the jaw and hair lines.
 ighlight under the eyes, chin and sides of the nostrils before
H
applying foundation, to prevent discoloration and shadow created by
skin folds.
 se highlight and shadow techniques to create facial contours and
U
define bone structure. Foundation should be as light as possible to
Unit B8/B9 application

enhance the contour cosmetics.

Creating mood
Colour can create the correct mood when taking photographs.
Strong, rich colours create vibrant, active moods.
Pale colours give a calming feel.
Oranges and yellows give a feeling of warmth.
Blues and greens have a cooling effect.
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Photographic make-up can use

dramatic effects
Contrasting colours
Red will bring the subject towards you or expand an area when taking
a photograph. Blue allows the area to blend into the surroundings.
of skincare products and make-up

Therefore, when selecting shades of make-up, it is important to look at

the surroundings as well as the clothing or the effect you are trying to
create may be lost. Using strongly contrasting primary colours could add
emphasis to certain areas.

Lighting
If the photograph is to be taken outside, you need to be aware that
the light will constantly change. It is for this reason that professional
photographers use lighting when working outside to get controlled and
better results. If, however, you have to work with natural light, remember:
e arly mornings – when the sun is low, photographs will have more
depth
 idday – natural light is flatter so little emphasis and depth are
m
achieved
strong sunlight – this will create hard outlines
c loud – photographs taken when the light is diffused by light
cloud gives a less harsh appearance of soft shadows and subtle
highlighting.

Lighting effects can have strong impact

on the finished look

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 Practical skills

Step-by-step daytime make-up, converted to an evening look

1 Prepare the 2 Apply concealer/

client, in an upright colour corrector, if
position, fully needed, followed by
covered and the skin suitable foundation
lightly moisturised. for the skin type.
Headband and
tissues protect
the hair. It is best
to apply daytime
make-up in natural
daylight.

Unit B8/B9
3 Apply foundation 4 Using dry cotton
with a damp sponge wool, lightly pat
or clean fingertips. on loose powder to
Work from the set the foundation.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
centre of the face Remember eyelids
outwards using light and lips. Using a
movements. large round brush,
remove any excess
powder, using
downward strokes.

5 Shader, blusher 6 Apply

and highlighter can eyeshadows,
now be applied to remembering to
contour the face, use disposable
as discussed in the applicators and to
treatment plan. decant the colours
Always decant on to a pallet, to
products. avoid contaminating
the remaining
eyeshadow.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

7 Apply eyeliner 8 When applying

or pencil, without mascara, remember
dragging on the eye, to support the eye
and remember to with a tissue, ask the
sharpen the pencil client to look down,
between clients, for and stroke upwards,
hygiene. with the eyelash
growth. A disposable
wand is always
used.
Unit B8/B9 application

9 Lip liner and 10 Show the client

lipstick are next. the finished result
Remember to with all covering
sharpen the lip removed. Her own
pencil, and to decant hair and clothes
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

the lipstick onto a will give a natural

pallet, applying it look. Hold the
with a clean brush. mirror upwards for
a flattering result.
Ensure that the
of skincare products and make-up

make-up effects
combine and
complement the
client’s look to create
the image that she
desires, and check
that she is pleased
with the result.

11 To convert the 12 Additional

make-up for an eyeliner and mascara
evening look select can be used to
complimentary enhance the eyes
colours. These may and give lashes
contain a shimmer. a more defined
appearance.

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 Practical skills

13 Apply blusher 14 Lip products

or bronzer to the are usually darker
cheekbones. These for evening wear.
products may A gloss may be
contain luminescent applied over the
particles to enhance lipstick for added
the cheeks. sheen.

Unit B8/B9
15 Evening make-up
is more dynamic Think about it
so false lashes
Application time should be approximately 45 minutes for a
could be applied to
add impact. These make-over. A lesson in skincare or make-up application should

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
should be applied be approximately one hour. If you are demonstrating to a
prior to additional larger group, your time may be adjusted according to the
eye make-up. service that you are presenting.

Think about it
To carry out an effective make-up service, you need to be able
to identify and treat the client’s individual skin type. Therefore,
it is essential to have prior knowledge to ensure the best
results.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Step-by-step special occasion make-up

Special occasion make-up can be a little more individual than day make-up, but not
quite as heavy as evening make-up. The key to making the whole look glamorous but
not overdone is to coordinate the make-up colours with the outfit and add a touch of
sparkle, with a lip gloss or shiny eyeshadow. Ask the client what she will be wearing;
see the outfit, if possible, and definitely have a trial run before the event.

1 Study the 2 Decant and

client’s natural skin apply concealer/
and hair colouring, colour corrector, if
to avoid choosing required. Take into
make-up colours account that your
Unit B8/B9 application

that clash. Research client may or may

the type of special not be used to
occasion and what wearing much make-
the client will be up. Keep application
wearing. and colour light,
particularly when
applying make-up to
mature skin.
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

3 Apply foundation 4 With a dry piece

with a sponge or of cotton wool,
clean fingertips, pat loose powder
blending from the all over the face,
centre of the face, remembering eyelids
of skincare products and make-up

outwards. Ensure and lips. Translucent

foundation chosen powder is suitable for
is suitable for skin mature skin.
type – foundation for
mature skin should
be light in texture
and colour.

5 A light stroke 6 Eyeshadow is

with a large blusher decanted and applied
brush will remove lightly over the lids.
any excess powder. If the client wears
Stroke the brush all glasses, or has
over the face, in a quite lined eyelids,
downward motion, to make the colour and
avoid a powdery look application fairly
to the face. light.

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 Practical skills

7 Apply a light 8 Decant the

application of blusher on to the
mascara using a wooden spatula and
disposable wand. apply lightly to the
Soft shades of cheeks. Soft corals,
navy, grey or brown peaches or pinks
mascara are less usually suit mature
harsh than black on skin.
mature skin.

Unit B8/B9
9 Sharpen the 10 Choose a
pencil and apply a complementary
light lip liner, which lipstick and decant,
prevents the lipstick then apply.
bleeding into the
lines around the
mouth.

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
11 You gain the
whole effect for
special occasion
make-up if you have
a complete dress
rehearsal – including
the hat!

Children’s face painting

Although not strictly a salon treatment, from time to time clients may request
children’s face painting for parties and birthday treats. No special skill is required –
you just need some water-based face paints (child friendly for easy removal) and a
flair for invention.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Carry out a consultation, checking for

contra-indications, and skin analysis to Provide aftercare advice
determine which products to use

Ensure all products and equipment are In this outcome you will learn about:
close to hand
• giving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
Apply moisturiser • giving the clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs.

Apply concealer and colour corrector

if required
Giving advice and recommendations to suit the
Apply foundation, check the colour on
client’s needs
the jawline. To enable the client to gain the most from the skincare and make-up instruction or
Unit B8/B9 application

make-up application, the client should be given the following information.

Apply powder to set the foundation
Correct preparation for applying skincare products and make-up suitable for the
Apply shaders and highlighters to client’s skin type.
minimise or emphasise areas as
Correct choice and application of cosmetics – colours, textures and types suitable
discussed with the client
for the features of the client and her skin type.
Apply eye shadow (hold a tissue under Effective and hygienic use of products and equipment.
the eye to prevent flaking shadow)
How to keep make-up fresh by: applying pressed powder; applying a fine spray of
Apply eyeliner or pencil (sharpen water to keep the make-up from drying and cracking; applying more lipstick.
after each eye)
Removal of make-up with products suitable for the client’s skin type.
Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

Apply mascara (using disposable In the event of an allergic reaction, remove all make-up, soothe with damp cotton
mascara wands) wool and apply a soothing substance, e.g. calamine lotion.
Apply lip pencil or liner All details should be recorded on the client record card.
of skincare products and make-up

Apply lipstick Link selling and retail products

Many therapists work on a commission basis for the sale of retail products, and
Show client the finished result and
skincare tuition and make-up application provide the perfect opportunities to promote
check she is happy
additional treatments and retail products to ensure the client gains the most from her
Record details, including products visit to the salon.
used and where applied, skin care
products used and recommended Treatments could include:
application of false lashes for special occasions
Products purchased
regular facial treatment
Show client the finished result. Record eyebrow treatments including brow shaping and tinting
details, including products used and
where applied, on client record manicure and pedicure treatments
waxing.
Retail products could include:
cleanser, toner and moisturiser to suit skin type
foundation and powder
matching lipstick and varnish
make-up brushes and applicator
throat/neck cream, eye cream.
Make-up and skincare products can
be purchased for the client to use at
It is therefore important that you have a good knowledge of the products that you are
home recommending for home use and can demonstrate how to use these effectively. This

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 Practical skills

will give the client confidence in you as a therapist. If the client purchases products, it
is a good idea to record these sales on the record card, so you can assist the client on
future visits if she wishes to repurchase.

Selling skills
Unit G18 Promote additional products or services to clients, pages 115–21, covers
selling skills, including using open questions to aid the sale, and how to close when
interest is shown.

Features and benefits of products

Many of the new age-smart products employ the latest technology, which introduces
vitamins to the skin and removes dead skin cells. They have become big sellers and

Unit B8/B9
are directed not just at mature clientele but at all clients as preventative products.
A feature is an aspect of the product which is useful, but not necessarily part of the
action of the product, such as a plastic, unbreakable bottle for travelling, or a pump
action for easy dispensing. For example:
Features of a one-to-one skincare and make-up instruction may be that it can be
performed privately in the salon, and the client may not have to travel too far.
Features of a group session are that it can be sociable and fun, and for the client
who is shy, there is safety in numbers!

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
A benefit is the key selling point of the product to the client’s advantage, such as a
cream moisturising cleanser which helps keep the moisture in the skin, or a cream
foundation which has a high moisture content to help a dry skin. For example:
Benefits of a one-to-one skincare and make-up instruction may be that it can be
tailor-made to suit the client’s needs, and that a greater amount of understanding
may take place because of the intimacy of just client and therapist.
Benefits of a group session are that the therapist reaches a wider audience,
the client may interact with friends within the audience and it provides a good
opportunity for discussion with others.

My story
A satisfied client!
Hi, I’m Sienna. For a number of years my skin had been looking dry and sallow. A friend
bought me a skincare and make-up session for my birthday and although I was very
nervous I went along. My therapist Amitia was lovely, and after cleansing and analysing
my skin and asking me a number of questions, she began selecting and demonstrating
the products on me. She seated me in front of a mirror, showed me how to use the
products and let me have a go. It was great fun and I learnt a lot. After selecting the
correct skincare products for my skin type and condition, she showed me some very
simple but effective day make-up techniques. The effects were stunning but not difficult to
recreate. Amitia wrote down all of the products she recommended on a treatment planner,
and although I could not afford to purchase all of the products in one visit I have now
bought the range of products – and my skin and make-up application looks wonderful. I
now regularly go to the salon for facials.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Evaluate the success of instruction

When you have carried out an individualised session or a group session you will need
to evaluate the effectiveness of your treatment session with the client(s). This will
enable you to work on your presentation and delivery techniques.

In this outcome you will learn about:

• a sking the client to make an evaluation of their own learning and then providing
additional support to meet their needs
• asking the client suitable questions on the effectiveness of the instruction process
and recording their feedback.
Unit B8/B9 application

Asking the client to evaluate their own learning

and provide support
You could ask the client what she has enjoyed and what she found difficult to master.
You may need to re-cap areas and give her product samples that she can take away
and practise with at home.

Asking questions and using feedback

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

It may be that you have devised a treatment/evaluation card specifically for skincare/
make-up lessons or demonstrations, or simply added notes to client record cards.
Always make a note of products used and recommended so you can follow this up
with the client in the future. This feedback will allow you to make improvements to
of skincare products and make-up

your own skincare and make-up instructional techniques, if necessary.

After the skincare and make-up instruction – whether a one-to-one session,
demonstration or group session – has been completed, hold a question and answer
session. Have you:
met the objectives
checked the finished result with the client
been cost-effective, both with time and product use
carried out the service in a commercially acceptable time
filled in a client record card
obtained the audience’s details for a promotional mailing (if group demonstration)
tidied away and left the area immaculate
enough products for other demonstrations, or will more need to be ordered?
After the event, it is important to look at your performance and judge if you were
happy with all aspects of it. Ask yourself:
How do I think it went?
What would I change if I could?
Was I fully prepared?
What would I do differently next time?

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 Practical skills

What sort of feedback did I get from the audience? Were they interested and
attentive? If not, why not?
Did the client(s) show full understanding of my instructions, and did she (they)
show interest in purchasing a product, or booking a service or treatment?

Frequently asked questions

Q Why is it important to ensure a client has the correct skincare products?

A Having the correct products for the client’s skin will ensure damage does
not occur and enables the client to get the maximum benefit from any other
services offered. Correct products also ensure make-up that is applied looks
the best.

Unit B8/B9
Q What is the benefit of regularly using an exfoliator?

A An exfoliator removes dead skin cells that can clog the surface of the skin
making it appear dull and lifeless. Dry, dehydrated patches also cause
foundation to look patchy.
Q Why is giving samples of skincare products important as part of a good
salon service?
A Samples allow the client to try the recommended products for a few days to
see how they get on with the application. Also, however good the products

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use

and application of skincare products and make-up
are, some clients will still react to some products and this can prevent
costly mistakes. This will give the clients faith in your treatment planning
and professionalism.
Q Why is it important to do a skin analysis prior to carrying out a make-up
application?
A It is important so that you can fully assess the client’s skin type and select
suitable products. This should be carried out on cleansed, dry skin.
Q What action should be taken if the foundations are not the correct shade?

A You can blend your own shades by mixing two or more colours together on a
palette to obtain the correct shade.
Q Do I have to use a colour corrector if a concealer has been used?

A Colour correctors do just what they say – they neutralise the colour to make
a more even shade – so they should only be applied where they are needed.
Q Is the lighting really that important when applying make-up?

A The more natural the lighting and the closer to daylight, the better the
finished results will look. Different coloured light bulbs and shades on
light fittings can give a false appearance and you may find that that the
application is too sparing or too heavy handed.
Q Why is it important to use the correct products on black/Asian skins?

A Because of the different colours and pigmentation of the skin, specialist

products should be used so the correct skin tones and a natural look can
be achieved.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Check your knowledge

1 On which bone would you try the colour of foundation?

2 Which skin type would benefit from the use of a mineral foundation?
3 On the colour star, which colour would neutralise red colouring?
4 When applying eye make-up to more mature clients, what type of product should be avoided?
5 What aspects should you consider when undertaking a special occasion make-up?
6 What should you do between each eye when using a pencil to line the eyes?
7 Why is the position of the client important when applying make-up?
8 What type of mascara is best to use on a client who wears contact lenses?
9 How would you contour a client with a round face shape?
10 Does a highlighter enhance an area or make it recede?
Unit B8/B9 application

11 Name two benefits of a one-to-one skincare and make-up instruction session.

12 Name two benefits of a group skin-care presentation.
13 When talking to clients why is it important to vary your tone and speech patterns?
14 Name three resources that you could use when carrying out a skincare instruction session.
15 Why is it important to demonstrate skincare products to clients?

Getting ready for assessment

Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and

You cannot do any simulation within this unit, but the evidence can be gained quite easily. Remember to keep all
paper evidence of any actions, feedback or witness statements that you have been given to support this work.
Your assessor will observe your performance on at least three occasions, working with a variety of skin types and conditions
of skincare products and make-up

involving different client groups and products as listed in the range to show day, evening and special occasion make-up
techniques, and skincare choice and application.
For B8/B9 ranges:
• Use all consultation techniques.
• Identify skin types.
• Use all the products listed in the range.
• Apply make-up for all occasions as listed in the range.
• Select skincare products that will suit the client’s skin type.
• Maintain environmental conditions (ventilation, heat, etc.).
• Prepare the client to suit the treatment.
• Deal with contra-indications that may prevent or restrict the treatment.
• Deal with contra-actions.
• Provide treatment advice.
Evidence of these can be provided for observation by your assessor but also by written work, projects, witness statements,
photographic and video evidence, and APL (accredited prior learning) statements.
You must prove to your assessor that you have the necessary knowledge, understanding and skills to perform competently
on all ranges within the criteria from this unit.
For B9, your assessor will be expecting you to provide skincare and make-up instruction, giving product advice to individual
clients from a variety of age groups, as specified in the range, covering oily, dry and combination skins.
The instructions and demonstration should cover use of skincare products and make-up for day, evening and special
occasion. You should use a variety of instructional techniques including skills demonstrations, diagrams, verbal explanation
and written instructions. You will need to evaluate your skincare/make-up advice.

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 Unit B6

Carry out waxing

services

What you will learn

B6.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working
Unit GH8
when removing hair by waxing
B6.2 Consult, plan and prepare for waxing treatment
with clients
B6.3 Remove unwanted hair
B6.4 Provide aftercare advice

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Introduction

Different cultures and religions may Waxing is the temporary removal of body hair by pulling it out of the skin by the
have different views regarding hair roots, using some form of bond. A hot, warm or cold wax product is spread over the
removal.
hairy area, and a cotton or paper strip is used to make the hair bond or stick to it. The
strip is then removed in a quick, single movement. It should leave the area clean and
hair-free. Hygiene, client care and lots of practice are necessary, which may mean this
unit takes some patience to learn, but it is very rewarding for you and the client.
Waxing treatments always form a large part of any salon’s business, as many
women in western society dislike body hair. However, some cultures, such as eastern
Europeans, do not dislike it. Waxing tends to be a steady source of income, with
peaks at certain times of the year. With the first rays of sunshine, clients wish to shed
their tights and show off hair-free legs, so spring is always busy. Christmas is another
busy time, when more revealing party outfits are worn and bodies need tender loving
care and that extra bit of maintenance.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Before you can give the client a full consultation, then plan and prepare for the
treatment, you need to understand:
hair facts
wax facts
other methods of hair
removal.
This knowledge will allow
you to make the best
treatment decision for
your client, based upon
a sound understanding
of the choices available
to suit her needs.
Key terms Benefits for the client:
Superfluous hair – unwanted body quick and effective method of removing superfluous hair to all areas of the body
hair.
immediate result
lasts 4–6 weeks depending on hair growth and colour of hair
minimal pain.
Benefits for the therapist:
mainstay salon treatment
treatments can often be slotted in among other longer services, therefore saving
salon time
can be offered as a promotion, e.g. summer holiday package, to increase revenue.

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 Practical skills

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working
In this outcome you will learn about:
• p reparing the work environment to meet legal, hygiene and industry • s electing and correctly positioning suitable equipment,
Code of Practice for Waxing Services requirements materials, applicators and products for the waxing
• ensuring your personal appearance meets accepted industry Code of treatment
Practice for Waxing Services and organisational requirements • ensuring your own posture and position minimises
• wearing suitable personal protective equipment for the work that fatigue and the risk of injury while working
conforms to the industry Code of Practice for Waxing Services • minimising wastage of product during application
• preparing the client and providing suitable personal protective • disposing of hazardous waste correctly to meet local
equipment to conform to the industry Code of Practice for Waxing authority requirements
Services • ensuring that the treatment is cost-effective and is

Unit B6
• making sure that environmental conditions are suitable for the client carried out within a commercially viable time
and the treatment • leaving the work area and equipment in a condition
• ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned using the correct suitable for further waxing treatments
methods • ensuring the client’s records are up to date, accurate,
• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to waxing treatments easy to read and signed by the client and practitioner.
• maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices
throughout the treatment

Carry out waxing services

Some of the topics in this outcome are also covered elsewhere:

The work environment and legal, hygienic and treatment requirements pages 70–104
Personal appearance pages 12–15
Cleaning tools and equipment pages 41–45
Environmental conditions pages 70–104
Hygiene pages 39–45
Personal protective work wear page 53

Learning about these topics will help you form a professional assessment and give
the best treatment that is tailor-made to your client’s requirements. Ensure that you
refer to the Habia Code of Practice for Waxing Services and follow the guidelines that
are set.

Preparing the work environment

Preparation for waxing is an essential part of the beauty therapist’s role regardless of
the treatment being carried out. Good preparation sets the whole atmosphere of any
treatment, creating a calm and efficient impression. If the therapist and work area are
not prepared, the client will be aware of this, which can detract from the benefits of
the treatment.
In the case of waxing, preparation is vital. Most wax needs preheating so that the
client is not kept waiting. All equipment and materials should be in place to avoid
leaving the client alone.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Preparation of the working area

Many salons have designated rooms or areas that are permanently prepared for
waxing, with heaters and all necessary products never leaving the room.
The golden rule here is to leave everything fully prepared for the next therapist to
use. This means replenishing anything that has run low, cleaning and being tidy
during the treatment. It would be most off-putting for a new client to find the remains
of the previous client’s treatment.
The preparation of the working area should include the following.
Protective covering for the couch, so that any spillage or residue is easily removed
and will not cause permanent damage.
Where plastic sheeting is used, paper couch roll should be placed over the top.
This prevents cross-infection, as the paper can be replaced easily; it also provides
client comfort.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Two waste bins, both with inner liners, should be placed behind or under the
couch: one for general waste; one for wax waste – this is for contaminated
materials, which will be put into a designated bin for collection by a licensed
removal firm for incineration.
The chosen heating unit for the wax type to suit the client’s needs and enough
wax product for the area to be treated. Obviously, a lip wax requires a small
amount of product, but a full leg wax will mean the heater needs to be quite
full. Remember that it may take a full half-hour to heat the wax to a working
temperature, so that needs to be the first job of the day. (Many salons keep a
Think about it heater on all day, in anticipation of clients dropping in without appointments.)
Check to ensure that the client Antiseptic cleaner for the skin, or the manufacturer’s recommended skin cleanser.
does not have a latex allergy before Talc-free powder.
putting on gloves. Alternative gloves
Fabric or paper strips which are compatible with the manufacturer’s requirements
are available, including vinyl or nitrile
for the wax chosen.
powder-free gloves. These should
be used if either the client or the Disposable gloves, usually vinyl with a talc-impregnated lining so they are easy
therapist has an allergy. to put on – refer to your individual professional body’s guidelines for use. Wearing
gloves may help to prevent contact dermatitis.
Disposable wooden spatulas or a suitable applicator – again refer to your
Think about it
professional body’s guidelines (there are no spatula requirements for roller
The talc product you use should waxing, of course).
be labelled ‘talc free’ to prevent
Tissues, cotton wool and a jewellery bowl for the client.
aggravating respiratory problems.
Talc-free products work in the same A pair of scissors and tweezers in a container soaking in suitable disinfectant to
way as talc when waxing to lift the sterilise – the scissors may be required to trim the hair length prior to treatment,
hairs and absorb moisture. Talc-free and the tweezers to remove the odd stray hair which has escaped the wax.
products contain natural ingredients After-wax lotion or oil.
such as cornstarch and kaolin. Aftercare leaflets for the client to take away.

Wearing suitable personal protective equipment

The personal protective equipment a therapist should wear when waxing is a
disposable apron and gloves.

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 Practical skills

Checking your position and posture Think about it

When waxing, you may find that you get very close to the skin to inspect every pore Many salons offer different styles of
and hair to make sure you have missed nothing. It is important to remember your bikini wax such as the ‘Hollywood’
posture to prevent back stain and repetitive strain injury. Remember to bend at the or ‘Brazilian’. A Brazilian leaves a
knees and keep a straight back. small line of pubic hair centrally. The
Hollywood is total hair removal.

Ensuring the treatment is cost-effective and You should be fully trained in

minimising wastage intimate wax techniques before

undertaking these treatments. If an
Cost is the price paid for something. It is measured in time, money or energy. accident occurs when waxing in this
Effectiveness means producing a result. delicate area, you may find that your
insurance is invalid.
So how does this apply to hair removing? Imagine you own your own business and
you have to pay for all outgoings, equipment, overheads, stock and products, along
with staffing and wages.

Unit B6
How can a therapist be economical?
Only use the amount of product needed. Do not be too quick to do a heavy
application of wax – it does not give the best results.
Do not be wasteful with disposable items. Couch roll can be split in half, cotton
wool pads can be split, and smaller tissues can be used rather than ‘man-sized’

Carry out waxing services

ones.
Give time careful consideration. Time is money and if the treatment times are not
planned carefully through the day, there may be a gap of 15 minutes per client.
This adds up to an extra hour at the end of the day that could be put to good use,
either with vital chores or another cash-paying client.
Be organised and prepared. Time spent preparing the working area not only gives
a professional appearance, it also saves time.
Do not indulge in false economies. Paying to have equipment maintained and
repaired makes good financial sense. If the equipment starts failing and the
therapist is unable to offer some treatments because of it, revenue may be lost.
Bad advertising through word of mouth will also mean lost revenue.
Invest in good labour-saving equipment. For example, borrowing an old machine
to wash all the towels may seem to cut costs, but an industrial washing machine
will have low maintenance costs.
Work out overhead costs on a realistic basis, and try to gear your prices to that
figure. Work out how many hours you work a week.
Be wary of both consultation and aftercare times. Some clients love to chat, and
while the therapist wants to give a quality treatment, time can slip away, and
that is expensive. Giving the client a leaflet is a good time-saving technique, and
the client can take it away to refer to.
Do some research and find out what sort of prices the competition asks for waxing
treatments. The salon may offer both warm and hot wax. Adjust your prices so
they are about the same – they should be not so expensive that custom is lost
but not so cheap that clients think there is a catch.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Disposing of hazardous waste

It is vital that the waxing waste is not The disposal of waste is covered in Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment,
mixed with ordinary rubbish or waste page 265. However, it is an important topic. When waxing, you will be dealing
from other treatments. If it is not with contaminated skin waste products from many different clients.
separated, health inspectors could
The following Acts require all clinical waste to be kept apart from general waste and
close down your salon as a health
to be disposed of to a licensed incinerator or landfill site by a licensed company:
hazard.
Environmental Protection Act, 1990
The Controlled Waste Regulations, 1992 (as amended)
Special Waste Regulations, 1996 (as amended).
Clinical waste includes:
waste which consists wholly or partly of animal or human tissue
blood or other body fluids
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

swabs or dressings
syringes or needles.
Refer to ‘You, your client and the law’ in Professional basics, page 58, for
further information.
All waste products from a waxing treatment must be classed as
contaminated waste: there is a possibility that blood spotting will have
occurred, especially when carrying out a bikini or underarm wax, and some
skin cells will be caught up in the wax. You only need to perform a wax
treatment on a tanned skin to see how much of the darker skin is removed
along with the hairs.
Dispose of waste such as wax strips in
the correct way. Put all your used strips into a lined small bin, tie the bag up and put it into the
larger, lined clinical waste bin that is provided by the salon. A contractor will empty
this weekly, but if a salon is a busy wax centre, then twice weekly emptying stops the
bin from becoming a health hazard.
The person who empties the clinical waste bins should wear industrial gloves as
added protection. The bins are usually taken to the council incinerator for burning.
Large hospitals often lease out one of their own incinerators to companies.
While it would be very unlikely that your waxing waste would contain any infections,
as you thoroughly check for contra-indications before treatment begins, you must
follow the procedures laid down by the law and by your own professional code of
ethics to protect yourself and your clients.

Leaving the work area and equipment suitable

for further treatments
After the client has left the salon, it is time to go back to your workstation to clear
up. Waxing is a notoriously messy business, especially in your early training. You will
probably have dripped wax down the side of the pot and on to the floor while trying
to get it from the pot to the area to be waxed. You may also have flicked some of it
on to yourself. Some of this is to be expected when you first start, but your technique
must get cleaner as you progress.

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 Practical skills

To avoid dripping wax on to the floor, fold up a tissue in your free hand and hold it
underneath the hand holding the spatula to catch any drips. This is much easier than
trying to pick wax off the floor – it never comes off completely once it has set.
Always wear a protective apron – it is much easier to throw away a plastic apron than
to get wax off a new overall.
Think about your method of work. Could you have been tidier as you went along?
Unless the client is the last one of the day, you will not have the luxury of plenty of
time to clean and tidy the area. Get into the habit of putting all waste straight into the
bin, which should be beside you. Bad habits soon form, so do not put bits and pieces
on the side of the trolley, or worse still, on the couch. If your next client is in straight
away, you could be in trouble with treatment timing if you have to spend a long time
tidying and preparing for your next treatment.

Good habits for keeping tidy

Organise the layout of the trolley in an ordered fashion. Arrange all the products

Unit B6
in order of use with the labels facing you, so you can easily find the one you need.
Replace them into their slot when you have finished with them. They will always
then be at hand, and you will look tidy and in control.
Have a space for everything. Have a system whereby all necessary tools are in a jar
or pot (even a plastic beaker is easy to clean), and the tissues and cotton wool are in
their own plastic bowl or tub.

Carry out waxing services

Tidy as you go along – put used tissues and cotton wool into a small pedal bin (lined
with a bin liner) as you finish with them, rather than leaving them on the trolley.
Have gloves and strips at the ready. Wash your hands in front of the client, although
this may not be possible if you do not have a sink near the workstation – but try not
to leave the client unattended.
Minimise waste by using only the amount of product required. This is not only cost-
effective, it also means there is very little product left over to have to clear up.
Mop up spills as they occur and do not allow them to endanger others.
After each treatment, cover the couch with clean couch roll. The trolley should be as
you would wish to find it. Do not leave a wax pot with a tiny amount of wax in it that Think about it
is not enough for the next client to have a treatment. Ask the receptionist or a junior You may share a work station or
therapist to put on a second pot, or ask your technician to add some more wax pellets salon cubicle with other therapists,
or sugar, so it can be heating while you clear up. therefore it is important to tidy up
after treatments to ensure you are
These hints prevent a major clean-up being necessary at the end of your treatment.
effective with your time and do not
Becoming tidy is a skill that comes with experience. annoy colleagues.

Ensuring the client’s records are up to date and

accurate
If the client is a regular visitor to the salon, a record card will be held. Each treatment
will be recorded along with the area treated and any reaction to treatment.
With a new client a full consultation will take place and a patch test will be carried
out prior to treatment, to make sure the client does not have an allergic reaction to
the wax (see page 435).

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

A treatment plan will be needed that is mutually agreeable to both client and
therapist. It will include:
type of hair growth (coarse, thick, thin, light, short or long)
the area to be treated
whether it is the first or a subsequent treatment
skin type and sensitivity
any reaction to a previous treatment
result of the sensitivity test
any contra-indications present.
A record card could look something like the one shown below.

Waxing and record of

treatment client file copy
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Client reference:
Initial consultation date: Therapist:
First treatment: Yes No
Contra-indications checked: Yes No
Contra-indications noted: None

Allergies: Disorders:
Skin conditions: Wax used:

Date and Area Contra- Special notes Therapist Patch

treatment action Contra-indications test
no. or adaptations

NB After 6 treatments client requires new consultation and analysis

Leaflet given: Yes
Aftercare – for a period of 24 hours:
t No sunbathing or sunbeds t Avoid tight clothing
t Avoid bathing in sea or t Do not use perfumed products
swimming pool on the area
t Do not take a hot bath or t No make-up or self-tanning
shower preparations
t Do not use deodorant / anti- t Do not keep touching or picking
perspirant at the area

Waxing treatment record card

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 Practical skills

Complete the client record card accurately. Refer to Professional basics (pages
For your portfolio
29–31) for client record keeping.
Devise a record card that could
It is important, both for the client and yourself, that you fill out the waxing sheet
be used to record your waxing
details accurately to avoid any health and safety problems and to protect your treatments.
professional reputation. Do not return the record card to be filed incomplete, thinking
you can do it later: you will not remember and vital information may not be recorded.
Be constructive when filling out the card. Be positive and helpful in what you write,
and avoid making any negative comments or personal observations about the client.
Clients are entitled to view their own records under the Data Protection Act. Also
avoid leaving the card lying around for anyone to read. Once you have completed the
write-up, give it to the person who is responsible for filing.

Consult, prepare and plan for

waxing treatments with clients

Unit B6
In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing suitable consultation techniques in a polite and • e nsuring client advice is given without reference to a specific medical
friendly manner to determine the client’s treatment condition and without causing undue alarm and concern
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the • taking the necessary action in response to any identified contra-

Carry out waxing services

client prior to carrying out the treatment indications and the client’s suitability for waxing treatments
• ensuring that informed and signed parental or guardian • clearly explaining the possible contra-actions to the client prior to
consent is obtained for minors prior to any treatment agreeing to the waxing treatment
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout • agreeing the waxing treatment and outcomes that are acceptable to
the treatment for minors under the age of 16 the client and meet their needs
• asking the client appropriate questions to identify if they • ensuring the client is in a suitable position for the area to be treated
have any contra-indications to waxing treatments during the waxing treatment
• accurately recording the client’s responses to questions • ensuring your client’s clothing, hair and accessories are effectively
• encouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points protected or removed.

Before you can effectively consult with the client and decide on her waxing needs
and draw up a treatment plan, you need to have thorough background knowledge of
all the products. So, look closely at hair facts (page 422) and wax facts (page 423)
before deciding on your recommendations.
It is important to ensure that you treat every client equally and in line with current
legislation (Disability Discrimination Act, 2005 and Equality Act, 2006 – refer to
Professional basics, page 62). The service and standard of care you provide should
be the same for everyone.
Some of the topics in this outcome are also covered elsewhere: Think about it
Consultation techniques pages 31–35 Regardless of treatment chosen,
all under-16s require their parent/
Agreeing the treatment and outcomes pages 47–48 guardian’s written consent for a
Contra-indications (general) pages 35–39 treatment to be carried out, and hair
removal is no exception. A parent/
The client’s position and safety pages 46–47
guardian should also be present at
Discussing and establishing treatment plans pages 25–28, 34–35 the treatment.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Using consultation techniques

You should use appropriate consultation techniques, including visual, questioning
and manual checks, to establish the treatment plan for the client. Remember that
you should record all details on the client record card and that clients must give their
signed consent before the waxing treatment is carried out.
Remember that your consultation should be carried out with sensitivity and tact to
give the client confidence. You should conduct the consultation in a polite and friendly
manner to find out what the client’s particular needs are.
Once you have conducted the consultation, you will be able to decide on the best
treatment plan to meet the needs of the client. You should always agree your
approach with the client before you begin.

Identifying contra-indications to waxing

Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

The questions that you ask need to establish if the client has a contra-indication
– that is, a condition that will prevent the treatment taking place, or mean that
the treatment needs adapting. (Refer to You and the skin, pages 200–01, for
photographs of the different types of infection.) It may be that an area has to be
protected or avoided, for example where a mole or skin tag is present. Accurately
record the client’s answers and encourage them to ask questions so that you can
Look out for moles and skin tags
which may restrict the treatment in
establish any problems and take any necessary action if required.
the area
The areas to be treated should be examined in good lighting to judge if any of the
following conditions are present:
skin diseases or disorders
open skin, infection, inflammation or healing skin (scabs present)
bruising
very thin or papery skin (diabetics have thin skin that does not heal very well
because of poor circulation; also long-term use of steroid creams or medication
can cause the skin to thin, which could cause tearing if the area is waxed over)
sunburn – after a sunbed or natural tanning
Use a pre-wax cleanser from a recent scar tissue
manufacturer to cleanse the area
moles, warts or any unidentified skin problems
varicose veins or broken capillaries on the legs
cold sores, eye infections, styes or colds when treating the face
unidentified lumps, breast-feeding and mastitis when treating under the arm
previous reactions to treatment
excessive ingrown hairs from previous treatments.
The client would also not be suitable for treatment if she had just had heat
treatment, such as infrared treatment or a sauna or steam bath.
Prior to or during menstruation, clients may have a lower pain threshold and the skin
Cover the mole with petroleum jelly may be more sensitive and react unpredictably. You can suggest clients take an over-
to prevent the wax from adhering to
it – this will ensure you do not cause the-counter painkiller to help, but only if they have used them before with no adverse
any damage to the mole reactions.

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 Practical skills

Explaining possible contra-actions

Even when you have been faultless in hygiene, safety and product use, your client
may react to the wax – even if she has had the same treatment for years. It could be Key terms
a reaction caused by medication being taken or the result of fluctuating hormones, or Contra-action – an adverse
it could be that an allergic reaction has developed. physical reaction, during or after the
treatment.
Possible contra-actions to waxing may be immediately visible, either during or after
the treatment. They may also appear when the client goes home or back to work.
Either way you should act responsibly and make your client aware of what action to
take.
Think about it
Unfavourable skin reaction
All contra-indications that are
Recognised as redness or soreness to the area, this could be caused by the wax present and contra-actions that have
being too hot on the skin, by an allergic reaction or from too vigorous scraping of the occurred as a result of the treatment
spatula on the skin during application. Stop the treatment, apply a cold compress should be recorded on the client’s

Unit B6
to the area, and apply and give aftercare cooling lotion for the client to continue record card. There is usually a slight
applying. reaction to hair removal but a strong
reaction should not occur.
Burning or blistering
Recognised as a burning sensation, this is caused by the wax being too hot. Was it
tested on the therapist, and a little applied to the area prior to treatment? Think about it

Carry out waxing services

Refer to the individual waxes for first aid recommendations (pages 426–32). The golden rule is: ‘If in doubt, don’t
treat!’ Ask the client to provide a GP’s
Swelling in the area written approval where appropriate
Recognised as the area being tender and the skin having a puffy appearance, swelling and keep it with the record card
is caused by the wax having too high a temperature or by the strips being lifted off in along with the client’s signature that
an upward motion rather than back on themselves. the treatment can go ahead. Never
try to diagnose a condition – you are
Refer to the individual waxes for first aid recommendations.
not trained to do so – and remember
It is also advisable to give your client an aftercare leaflet to take away and refer to, so to explain possible contra-actions
that any potential contra-action can be avoided and maximum benefit is gained from prior to the treatment.
the treatment.

Agreeing the waxing treatment and outcomes to

meet the client’s needs
During the consultation the therapist needs to discuss the realistic outcomes of a
waxing treatment.

Unrealistic aims of waxing

It would be unrealistic for the client to believe that:
waxing is permanent hair removal
waxing makes the hair growth weaken
all the hairs grow back at the same time
waxing lightens the hair colour
the hairs grow back with a sharp, spiky feel to them
waxing is painless.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Realistic aims of waxing

Think about it
It is important to be honest with the Waxing lasts 3–6 weeks depending on hair growth.
clients, so they know what to expect. As the blood supply to the hairs is increased with waxing, the hairs may grow
Honesty between therapist and client back slightly thicker and coarser.
is part of the ethical conduct that The hairs grow back spasmodically as the hair growth cycle for each follicle is
maintains high professional standards different.
for all beauty therapists
Waxing does not change the hair colour.
Shaving and cutting blunt the ends of the hair, making them feel spiky; after
waxing the hair grows back with its natural tapered end, feeling smooth to the
touch.
Waxing feels like a plaster being taken from the skin. Pain thresholds will vary
and some clients will feel more than others.

Ensuring the client is in a suitable position to be

Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

treated
The couch should initially be placed in an upright position to allow the client to
be comfortably seated, and then placed into the appropriate position for the area
to be treated. A pillow covered with a towel and protected with couch roll should
be used. It is vital that the client is in the right position not only for their comfort
and ease but to ensure that as the therapist you don’t suffer any injuries when
undertaking the treatment
Help the client into a comfortable and relaxed position. Offer a covered towel as a
prop, should she or he require extra support under the knees or in the small of the
back.
Ask the client to place protective couch roll around the panty line if doing a bikini
wax, or around the bra if doing an underarm wax, rather than just assuming the
client would be comfortable for you to touch those areas.
Remember when the couch is in a semi-reclining position and the client is having
the front of the legs waxed, it is very comfortable. However, you must lower the
couch head so it is flat again before you ask her to turn over, otherwise she will
be in a very awkward position.

Think about it
Advise the client not to wear expensive underwear when having a wax. Protect the
client’s clothing with towels and tissues. If the client is having a bikini wax prior to a
holiday, she should wear her swimsuit or bikini bottom for waxing to ensure the line is
right. If not, an old pair of briefs with the same leg shape will give the correct line.

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 Practical skills

Salon life
My story
My name is Nikita. When I first left college I was not very quick or confident with my
waxing skills. On my first day, my manager asked me about my favourite and least
favourite treatments. I had to say that waxing was my least favourite. So instead of
giving me a few wax clients during my first month, my manager made sure I had
mostly waxing treatments in my column. My manager was always around to give me
support and guidance and although I was nervous at first, my confidence and speed
quickly grew. I’m really glad I faced up to my fears and worked hard on my weakest
treatment. I now enjoy waxing and have many regular clients.

Unit B6
Carry out waxing services
Benefits to client and therapist ASK THE EXPERTS
Benefits of waxing for the client:
Q Do you have any tips for advice that I should give
• Quick and visual treatment to clients to reduce the pain?
• Areas stay hair free for longer A Firstly, remind the client that her pain threshold
• All parts of the body can be covered is at its lowest around her period and to avoid
treatment at this time. Secondly, a client’s pain
• Treatment available to male and female clientele threshold is also at its lowest if they are feeling
• After a number of treatments hair growth usually under the weather or tired. Thirdly, suggest the
becomes sparser application of an after-wax lotion following
treatment to reduce redness and aid healing.
Benefits of waxing for the therapist: Q I worry about causing bleeding when carrying out
• Quick treatment to carry out underarm and bikini-line waxing.
A Make the client aware that as the hair in these
• Staple salon treatment that provides regular
areas is strong terminal hair there may be some
income
blood spotting and that bleeding or spotting is a
• Can be performed as a mobile treatment normal reaction. Use an after wax lotion which is
• Good treatment to link with promotions; for formulated to deal with spotting.
example, leg wax and pedicure for the summer

Top tips
• It is important to make sure you are confident in your own abilities as this is reassuring for the client. If you feel weak
in a particular skill or treatment, make sure that you keep practising it. Practice makes perfect and treatment times will
improve with experience.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Remove unwanted hair

In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing the correct pre-wax products prior to waxing following manufacturers’
instructions
• conducting a test patch and skin sensitivity test immediately prior to the intended
waxing treatment
• establishing the hair growth pattern prior to the application of the product
• using methods of application correctly and following manufacturers’ instructions
• applying and removing the product in the treatment area according to the
requirements of the hair removal method and hair growth pattern
• maintaining the client’s modesty and privacy at all times
• providing clear instructions to the client on how and when to support their skin
during the waxing treatment
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

• ensuring your work techniques minimise discomfort to the client

• checking the client’s well-being throughout the waxing treatment
• stopping the waxing treatment and providing relevant advice if contra-actions occur
• ensuring the client’s treatment area is left free of product and hair and treated with a
suitable soothing product
• ensuring that the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction.

Why is the human body hairy?

As the human body evolved it was extremely hairy all over for warmth; the body
also laid down fat deposits to keep warm. Facial hair on men through the ages has
been considered a sign of virility, strength and masculinity. Men only started shaving
with razors during the twentieth century. In fact, most Edwardian gentlemen had
handlebar moustaches or full beards. There has been a big change in fashion towards
clean-shaven faces, except of course for the ‘designer stubble’ trend of celebrities.
We still retain hairs for the purpose of warmth and protection. Terminal hair (refer to
Related anatomy and physiology, pages 245–47) grows long and is often coarse in
texture:
Scalp hair – protects the head and helps keep in the heat.
Eyelashes – protect the eyes by catching particles that may fall into the eye.
Underarm and pubic hair – protect the delicate skin and cushion against friction
caused by movement.
Body hair – protects against heat loss.
For the anatomy of the hair’s structure and the hair growth cycle, refer to Related
Anatomy and physiology, page 248.

Factors determining hair growth

Both men and women have terminal hair, but hair growth is determined by
several factors.

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The number of hair follicles

A large number of follicles equals lots of hair and the hair will look very thick. This
tends to be genetic, which means it has been inherited from the parents. (If a man
has baldness in his family, there is a strong possibility he will develop the same hair-
growth pattern.)

Cultural influences
Hair-growth patterns as well as strength, texture and the amount of hair are also
influenced by geography and ethnicity. There is a higher proportion of blonde and
light-skinned people in countries such as Norway and Sweden. Face or body hair
on these people is light and not noticeable. However, the nearer the Equator, and
hence nearer the sun, that people live, the darker their skin and hair colour is likely to
become. Italians, Spaniards and Greeks usually have dark hair and skin. Their facial
hair or body hair may be more noticeable. British colouring can be a mixture of light
and dark – Scottish and Irish people tend to have darker colouring. Generally, it is

Unit B6
darker-haired clients who are more concerned with superfluous hair, mostly because it
is more visible.

Hair strength and texture

Again, this tends to run in families. People with a thick, strong hair growth may also
have lots of follicles and a really full head of hair. Others may have lots of follicles,
but the hair itself may be very fine in texture. Some people have the combination of

Carry out waxing services

few follicles with fine hair texture. For these people body hairs are not noticeable and
Key terms
they may never need the services of depilation. Depilation – any method of hair
removal used on the body.
Illness
This can have a strong effect on hair growth, usually making the hair lank and
lifeless, and could affect hair styling.

Medication
Some drugs have a strong effect on hair growth. They might produce coarse, thick
hair, which can be depilated, with a doctor’s permission, or the follicles might
weaken and wither, causing the hair to fall out. Some forms of chemotherapy for the
treatment of cancer cause baldness. Often this is only temporary and the hairs will
regrow.

Hormones
Hormones can also have an effect on hair growth. Women going through the
menopause, when hormone levels may be erratic, may find they develop ‘whiskers’
of coarse hair on the face.

Emotion
A sudden shock, accident or the death of a loved one can cause hair loss, which may
regrow, or may not. This is called alopecia and can mean patches of hair loss or total
baldness. It is unusual for alopecia to occur on a leg or an arm.
In our society some women dislike having hairy legs and body hair. Some men may
also consider having hair removed from the body. For example, some professional
sportsmen such as cyclists and swimmers may wish to enhance their performance by
reducing body hair.

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Think about it Hair facts

In some European and Mediterranean Superfluous hair
countries, hairy bodies are considered This term is used where hair growth is normal, but the client feels it to be
the norm. Strong underarm hair or unattractive. Dark-haired clients, especially, may feel that their growth is visible, for
other body hair is not considered example on the upper lip.
unattractive in women. Be careful not
to be hasty with treatment advice. Removal of unwanted hair, particularly by waxing and sugaring, is referred to as
depilation. This is a popular salon treatment as it provides a quick and efficient way of
removing unwanted hairs in both small and larger areas.
Key terms Some clients do not want the hair removed, but like it to be lightened by bleaching.
Bleaching – a method used for Other clients wish to have their hair permanently removed using more advanced
lightening the hair by removing or methods such as epilation or laser treatment.
lifting the colour without penetrating
the skin. This is a temporary method. Additional knowledge
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Epilation is a specialist treatment at Level 3. It is permanent removal of the hair

and requires considerable skill and training. A small needle is inserted into the
hair follicle and a current is passed through the needle. If the hair is in the anagen
start of hair growth, the dermal papilla has the blood supply sealed, preventing a
new hair from growing. Epilation is a permanent method of hair removal if the hair
is in the correct growth stage. The client will need to be aware that a number of
treatments may be required before all the hair is permanently removed.
Laser hair removal is usually carried out in specialist clinics rather than local
salons, and treatments can be costly. As with epilation a number of treatments
may be required for successful hair removal, but unlike epilation larger areas can
be treated in one session. The laser treatment involves a laser beam being passed
down a handheld instrument; the laser energy is converted into heat, this heat
destroys the hair follicle and dermal papilla preventing the hair from regrowing.
The treatment causes a slight stinging sensation, especially in sensitive areas.

Many hair-removal creams can be bought over the counter, as well as electric
Think about it shavers for women and disposable razors with adapted shaving foams. These ensure
that the skin is kept soft and moisturised.
Hair growth patterns can also depend
on ethnic background. Japanese Hair removal is very much a matter of personal choice and the client should be
women can be virtually hairless, while given all the information available, so an informed decision can be made. The client
women in India and Mediterranean needs to know the various methods of hair removal available, with the advantages
countries often have a strong, dark and disadvantages of each, and to be given the therapist’s professional advice for her
hair growth. particular problem area, with consideration of the cost and time involved.
Abnormal hair growth
Key terms Two terms are used when talking about abnormal hair growth:
Hirsutism – increase of terminal hair
hirsutism
on the body where hair is usually
minimal or absent; hair growth in the hypertrichosis.
male sexual pattern.
Hypertrichosis – the abnormal
Hirsutism
growth of terminal hair.
This is when the hair growth of a woman develops male characteristics; it is seen
as a strong growth of a beard-like formation, the development of chest hair, and

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 Practical skills

more prominent back hair. The pubic hairline can

grow upwards towards the navel – all the hair
growth patterns of a male. It is caused by hormone
imbalances, usually a sensitivity to androgens,
which are one of a group of steroid hormones
secreted by the adrenal cortex (above the kidneys)
and in the ovaries in small amounts.

Hypertrichosis
This is the abnormal growth of terminal hair in an
area not normally seen in either sex, such as along
the forehead.
Various wax products

Key terms
Wax facts

Unit B6
Couperose – reddening of the skin
Advantages and disadvantages of the different methods of associated with dilated or broken
depilation and hair lightening capillairies.

Method of hair removal Advantages Disadvantages

Warm wax • Q uick, cost-effective • S ticky

Carry out waxing services

• Efficient over large areas • Can cause skin damage if reapplied over the same area
• Once mastered, easy to • Can leave a residue, which if not fully removed can leave the client
apply feeling sticky

Hot wax • G ood for strong hair • S killed technique of application may take some time to master
growth • Because temperature control has to be accurate, application needs to
• Suitable for ethnic hair be quick
types, which may have • Not suitable for some skin types, e.g. couperose skins
bent follicles (refer to • Can be messy when learning application
anatomy section)

Impregnated cold wax • M inimal skill needed • B ruising or skin damage may occur as the strips stick to the skin and
strips • Less messy for home use not to the hair
• No specialist equipment • Painful to remove
needed • Unsatisfactory results
• Quick • Can be costly for large areas
• If the hairs are not all the same length, this method may not be
successful. The client would need to wait until the hairs were a similar
length, as with hot or warm wax, for an effective result
• If the client has bruised skin from waxing at home, this would contra-
indicate a salon treatment

Strip sugaring • A s warm wax • C an be less efficient than warm wax

• Water soluble • Tricky technique to master

Manual sugaring • W ater soluble • D ifficult technique to master

• Applied at body • More time-consuming to perform
temperature, so less likely
to burn skin
• Cost-effective no paper/
material strips necessary

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Method of hair removal Advantages Disadvantages and effects on waxing

Cutting •  uick
Q • S hort term only
• No skill involved • Blunt regrowth, as hair removed only to skin level
• Home treatment • Risk of cutting the skin
• No pain involved Effects on waxing: Ensure that hairs are long enough to wax effectively

Shaving •  uick
Q • S uitable for all skin types
• No skill involved • Blunt regrowth
• Home treatment • Risk of skin damage
• No pain • Not hygienic
• Equipment • Short term only
• Only removes surface part of the hair
Effects on waxing: Ensure that hairs are long enough to wax effectively

Tweezing • P recise •  nly suitable for small areas

O
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

• Ideal for small areas, i.e. on • Risk of skin damage (bruising or pinching the skin)
the face • Breakage of hair may occur
• Equipment cheap to • Can be time-consuming
purchase • Not ideal as a DIY treatment for clients who wear glasses
Effects on waxing: Can distort the hair follicle, which may cause the hair
to twist and grow inwards. Also if the client wished to have epilation in
the future, the hair follicle, where the needle is inserted, can become
distorted, therefore epilation would not be a suitable treatment

Threading • C heap • S kill needed to apply

• No equipment needed • Possible breakage of the hair
• Suitable for Mediterranean Effects on waxing: Possible distortion of hair follicle, which may mean the
and Asian clients as this is area is unsuitable for epilation
a common method used
for many years in Asian
countries
• As effective as tweezing

Abrasives (mitts/pumice • N o skill needed •  air breakage may occur

H
stones) • No specialist equipment • Hair is only removed at skin surface level
needed • Could result in skin damage
• Improves the skin texture • Not terribly effective on strong dark hair growth
as dead skin cells are shed Effects on waxing: Waxing should not be undertaken directly after using
(desquamation) an abrasive glove as the skin could be sensitised; also the hairs should be
• Cheap treatment for home of a similar length for the treatment to be effective
use

Electrical appliances (e.g. •  o skill needed

N •  nly removes surface hairs
O
electric razors, etc.) • Re-usable • May damage the skin
• Ideal for home use • Some can be expensive
• Clean and quick • Regrowth produced is blunt and growth stubble
Effects on waxing: Waxing should only be undertaken if the hairs are of
the correct length. The use of electrical razors gives the same effect as
shaving, where the hair is just cut off at skin level, whereas an epilator
removes the hair from the root. As with all waxing treatments the result
will depend on the length and the stage of hair growth

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 Practical skills

Method of hair removal Advantages Disadvantages and effects on waxing

Depilatory creams •  heap

C • D issolves hairs by using a chemical reaction at skin level
• Quick • Some products have an unpleasant fragrance
• Ideal for home use • Not suitable for allergy-prone or sensitive clients – always carry out a
• No skill required patch test prior to use
Effects on waxing: As with other methods, the hairs will need to grow to
a suitable length if waxing is to be effective

Bleach • L ittle skill involved in •  ot suitable for all skin types

N
application • Sensitivity test required
• Quick results • Not suitable for large areas, e.g. the legs
• Suitable for facial hairs • Regrowth is more noticeable when it does come through
• Suitable for clients having • Skin irritation can occur
epilation Effects on waxing: This method could be used for clients who do not
wish to have waxing but are concerned by the darker hair. It can also be

Unit B6
used between epilation treatments if the client so wishes, as to wax or
tweezer the hairs would be counter-productive to the treatment

Laser treatments (including • C an be used for large or •  ostly

C
intensive pulse light) small areas • Specialist practitioner
• Precise application • More than one treatment may be required
• Suitable for most skin • Can be painful

Carry out waxing services

types Effects on waxing: If a client is having laser treatments on an area, no
other method should be used while the course of treatment is being
carried out as it can affect the treatment and the skin can become over
sensitised

Epilation • P recise application • M ore than one treatment required

• Salon treatment • Not for clients with a needle phobia
• More than one method • Can be costly to clear a large area
available to suit client Effects on waxing: Waxing could be used on a client at the
requirements commencement of the treatment to attempt to put all the hairs into the
first stage of hair growth (anagen) to speed up the treatment process

For your portfolio

Research hot and warm waxing products and equipment. Look at manufacturers’
websites and in salon supply magazines, and evaluate which you think are the most
suitable and economic products to use.

Properties of wax treatments

There are many excellent types of wax available, with various ingredients and
different effects. Wax is classed according to its working temperature. The
temperatures below are supplied courtesy of Bellitas Ltd, beauty suppliers, known for
their ‘Strictly Professional’ waxes. Manufacturers’ instructions will vary with different
products, so always refer to the recommended temperatures and heating units for
maximum benefit and safety.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Type of wax Working temperature

Hot hard depilatory wax Works best at 48–68°C

Warm soft depilatory wax Works best at 40–43°C

Cream depilatory wax Works best at 35–43°C

Organic wax Organic wax varies – refer to suppliers

Type of wax and its working
temperature Cold wax Needs no heating

Bellitas Ltd

Ingredients
The ingredients of a wax will determine its working temperature. The ingredients will
Key terms vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the higher the proportion of good-quality
Resin – a substance used in wax resin in relation to beeswax, the more heat is required to get it to a manageable working
products; can be solid or semi-solid, consistency.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

natural or synthetic.
Resins are organic polymers that may be naturally occurring or synthetic. A polymer is a
Beeswax – natural wax products
compound such as starch or Perspex. It forms the basis for all plastics and artificial fibres.
produced by bees; used in wax
Natural resins occur in certain plants and trees. The fluid that oozes out from a wound in
preparations for its emollient
the plant or tree hardens into a solid resin to protect the injured part. The balsam, pine,
properties.
gum and rubber tree all produce resins. The gum tree produces chewing gum resin.
Resins are used in the making of perfume, waxing and some cosmetics. Chemists can
now make synthetic resins to prevent the overexploitation of plants.Large quantities of
resins are produced as a by-product of the petroleum oil business, and are extracted from
crude oil after it has been pumped out of the ground.
EU directive 88/379 provides information on all precautions, correct handling, storage and
first aid measures.

Latest ingredient developments

Companies are incorporating rich and natural ingredients into their wax formulas to help
soften and moisturise the skin. Cannabis sativa is a drug-free hemp derivative that is rich
in essential fatty acids to help lock in moisture. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
For sensitive skins, tea-tree wax is very soothing with antiseptic properties. Hemp wax is
also very kind to a sensitive skin, and cream waxes moisturise.
Aloe vera wax has soothing, moisturising and healing properties, and is suitable for
sensitive skin types. Some companies have started to add essential oils other than tea
tree to their wax formulas – lavender, for example, has healing and soothing properties
and has long been used to treat burns and irritations.

Types of wax
Hard depilatory wax
What is it?
It is a solid wax, sold in pellet form, which becomes molten when heated.
What is it made of?
It is a mixture of natural resins, beeswax and microcrystalline wax. Insoluble in cold
water, this wax is quite soluble when hot. It has a low chemical reactivity and is stable.

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What are the hazards?

Hard wax is classed as non-hazardous if used in correct professional circumstances.
What are the first aid measures?
If used at the correct temperature and with the correct procedure for hair removal,
this wax poses no hazard.
High temperatures should be avoided, as these will cause thermal burns.
If an overheated wax has solidified on the skin, leave it in place and consult a
doctor.
If wax enters the eyes, they should be flushed immediately with water for 15
minutes and medical attention obtained.
What are the fire-fighting measures?
This wax is stable, but it has a flash point greater than 220°C. Make sure that
the thermostat controlling the temperature on the heater is working!

Unit B6
Although not strictly classed as flammable, this wax will burn. Avoid contact
with flammable fabrics, e.g. placing near the curtains.
In the event of a small fire, foam, carbon dioxide, dry chemical powder, sand or
earth may be used to extinguish it. For a large fire, use foam or water spray.
What do I do in the event of an accident?

Carry out waxing services

In the event of a large spillage, any wax entering the drains will solidify and
cause blockages. The local health authority will need to be notified if this
happens.
Allow spilt hot wax to cool and solidify, then scrape up for disposal.
How do I store it?
Hard depilatory waxes can be kept for up to six months in tightly closed jars in
cool dry conditions, away from possible sources of contamination.
How do I handle it?
Adequate protective clothing must be worn when handling wax in a molten state.
It is recommended that advice be sought from the individual Awarding Body and
professional organisation that is favoured by your training establishment.
To ignore their recommended guidelines may invalidate any assessments taking
place, but more importantly may remove insurance protection. (Refer to ‘You,
your client and the law’ in Professional basics, pages 48–68.)

Warm wax
What is it?
This is a soft, thick liquid. It may vary in colour from warm honey to amber or light
brown.
Soft wax is supplied in a tin or plastic tub, which fits into a special heating unit.
There are many soft waxes on the market and it is recommended that the wax be
heated only in the correct heater, following the manufacturer’s instructions, as the
temperatures for best performance may vary slightly. A warm wax heater

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

What is it made of?

It is composed mainly of refined gum resin and hydrocarbon tackifiers. This gives the
wax its sticking properties.
What are the hazards?
Warm wax is classed as non-hazardous if used in correct professional circumstances.
What are the first aid measures?
If used at the correct temperature and with the correct procedure for hair removal,
this wax poses no hazard.
High temperatures should be avoided, as this will cause thermal burns.
If overheated wax has solidified on the skin, leave it in place and consult a doctor.
If in contact with the eyes, irrigate immediately with large quantities of cold water
for at least five minutes. Obtain medical attention.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

If inhaled, move the person away from exposure to fumes from molten products.
If irritation persists, obtain medical attention.
If ingested, no special treatment is necessary.
If accidental skin contact with the heated product occurs, cool the affected area
Key terms by plunging it into cold running water for at least ten minutes. Do not remove the
adhering material. Obtain medical attention. If a limb is completely surrounded
Tourniquet – tight bandage around
by wax, the wax should be split to avoid a tourniquet effect.
a limb, which cuts off the blood
supply to the area.
If skin contact with the cold product occurs, wash thoroughly with soap and
water.
What are the fire-fighting measures?
Although not strictly classed as flammable, soft wax will burn above 200°C.
Avoid contact with flammable fabrics, e.g. placing near the curtains. Ensure that
the thermostat on the heating unit is in working order by regularly maintaining the
equipment.
In the event of a small fire, use carbon dioxide, dry powders or foam.
Do not use water on soft wax.
What do I do in the event of an accident?
When soft wax is molten, care must be taken to prevent burns by ensuring that
application temperatures are kept to the minimum necessary for adequate product
performance.
At no time is it necessary to heat the product above 60°C.
Ensure good ventilation in the working environment.
Where accidental overheating occurs the source of heat should be disconnected
and the molten product left undisturbed until cool. Make sure that all persons are
aware of the potential hazard.
How do I store it?
Soft wax may be maintained as a cool liquid within its own container, or heated
within the unit on a daily basis. It may keep for up to six months in cool dry
conditions.

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How do I handle it?

For your portfolio
Handle in the same way as for hard wax.
Research products other than azulene
Adequate protective clothing must be worn when handling wax in a molten state. that are often found in cream wax.
It is recommended that advice be sought from the individual Awarding Body and
professional organisation that is favoured by your training establishment.
To ignore their recommended guidelines may invalidate any assessments taking
place, but more importantly may remove insurance protection. (Refer to ‘You,
your client and the law’ in Professional basics, pages 48–68.)
Soft waxes are unlikely to cause any environmental hazards, but do remember
that all waxes are generally non-biodegradable in the short term.

Cream waxes
Many manufacturers now produce a good quality cream wax. Cream wax contains
ingredients such as moisturisers and azulene that help the skin’s condition. Azulene

Unit B6
is anti-inflammatory and soothing, and is suitable for more sensitive skin types.
(Azulene is the ingredient that will turn the cream a blue colour.)
Cream wax also works on slightly lower melting and working temperatures, thereby
enhancing client comfort during waxing.
Cream wax
Cream wax has enhanced sticking properties, which means that it can be spread

Carry out waxing services

thinly and is thus very economical to use.
Refer to the warm waxing information in the details above.

Organic waxes
Organic waxes are very popular as they contain natural ingredients such as honey as
well as the chemical ingredients they need to keep them stable. Organic waxes do
not set when cold but become very liquid when heated.

Cold waxes
Some cold waxes, such as pre-coated wax strips, are available over the counter;
others are supplied to salons by the manufacturer.
Cold wax
Retail strips
These can be purchased from most large chemists and come in packs of 6–10
strips.
They are usually made by the companies that produce hair-removal creams.
The pre-coated strips are double layered – one piece of wax paper is a non-stick
backing strip from which the coated strip peels away to be placed on the skin.
They contain hydrocarbon resins so are sticky, but as they are cold, the adhering
properties are not as effective as warm or hot wax.
Most manufacturers recommend the strips be warmed between the hands before
splitting and applying.
The wax coating is quite fine and may not be sufficient to grip strong hair
growth, so the strips are only suitable for light growth. They are not normally
recommended for facial use, elderly people, diabetics and people with
skin irritations.

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They can be used as a stopgap for quick removal of a light growth between waxing,
and for special occasions should the client not be able to visit for warm waxing.
Follow instructions on the individual packaging.

Roller waxing
Many manufacturers provide complete systems with disposable roll-on heads. These
are proving very popular in salons and with therapists offering a mobile beauty therapy
service.
The applicators look a little like a roll-on deodorant stick, and come in various roller head
sizes for different parts of the body. They can be disposed of after use. Alternatively, refill
cartridges can be used and the head attachments taken off for cleaning and sterilisation.
Some salons favour the client purchasing the whole roller applicator, which the salon
then keeps for that client to avoid cross-contamination.

Other products used in waxing

Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Pre-waxing lotion
What is it?
This is a cleansing lotion applied to the area before treatment to cleanse and remove any
grease or dirt on the skin that may prevent good hair removal.
What is it made of?
The product usually contains ethanol and camphor oil in a cosmetic lotion. The ethanol
is an alcohol for cleansing, and the camphor has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory
properties as well as being antiviral. It is also a counter irritant.
What are the hazards?
If used properly, this product has no hazards.
What are the first aid measures?
If ingested, drink milk or water.
Pre-waxing lotion
If it goes into the eyes, wash well with water. If irritation persists, seek medical advice.
What do I do in the event of an accident?
If spillage occurs, clean up with an absorbent material, then wash with detergent and
water to avoid a slippery floor.
How do I store and handle it?
No special precautions are considered necessary.

Purified talc/or talc-free alternatives.

Purified talc or talc-free products are products that contain no additives or fragrance. They
are used to prevent allergies and respiratory conditions when used regularly.
What is it?
It is a dry powder that is used as a light dusting over the area to be waxed. It ensures the
hairs have a covering for the wax to adhere to and that the hairs stand away from the skin.

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What are the hazards?

All dry powders can give respiratory problems if precautions are ignored and they are
inhaled. Avoid excessive use, especially near the nose and mouth.
This product is non-flammable.
What are the first aid measures?
If ingested, drink milk or water.
If inhaled, move the person to the fresh air and keep her warm.
Avoid prolonged skin contact as this can lead to dry skin.
If it goes into the eyes, wash well with water.
What do I do in the event of an accident?
Sweep or vacuum up the powder, avoiding dust.

Unit B6
How do I store and handle it?
Store in a cool, dry place, keeping containers tightly sealed.

After-wax lotion
What is it?
This is a soothing lotion used after treatment to help cool and calm the skin and

Carry out waxing services

prevent irritation.
What is it made of?
The product contains an emulsion of oils, waxes, water, water-soluble ingredients,
emulsifiers, fragrance and preservatives.
What are the hazards?
If used properly, this product has no hazards.
What are the first aid measures?
If ingested, drink milk or water.
If it goes into the eyes, wash well with water. If irritation persists, seek medical
advice
What do I do in the event of an accident?
If spillage occurs, clean up with an absorbent material, then wash with detergent and
water to avoid a slippery floor.
How do I store and handle it?
No special precautions are considered necessary.

Wax equipment cleaner

What is it?
This is a liquid with a very strong smell!
What is it made of?
It is a hydrocarbon solvent and a very powerful cleaner.

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What are the hazards?

It is highly flammable and is hazardous. It should not be used in an enclosed space
as the fumes are highly noxious.
What are the first aid measures?
If it goes into the eyes, irrigate immediately with large quantities of cold water for
at least five minutes. Obtain medical attention.
Do not inhale as this may cause dizziness. If it is inhaled, move to fresh air.
If ingested, drink plenty of milk or water.
Avoid prolonged contact with the skin. If irritation occurs, seek medical advice.
What are the fire-fighting measures?
The cleaner is highly flammable. Evacuate the area and inform fire-fighters of the
hazards.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

What do I do in the event of an accident?

Clean the contaminated area with lots of detergent and water to avoid slippery
floors.
Do not absorb on to combustible material such as a tissue.
How do I store it?
Store in a cool place away from direct sunlight. Large quantities should be kept in a
fire-resistant store.

Benefits and effects of waxing

Type of wax Benefits Effects Possible drawbacks

Hot wax As hot wax needs to be heated The solid wax turns into a liquid Only really suitable on longer hair growth –
to a high temperature it is when heated and when applied results not good if the hair is shorter.
extremely effective on strong to the skin, it coats the hairs, Hot wax may cause a slight skin reaction, so not
hair growth. gripping them firmly. The wax suitable for sensitive skin, or sensitive areas.
is applied with a disposable Application is a skill that needs a lot of practice
spatula in a thick layer. A lip to master.
of wax is then lifted to allow The wax needs to be applied quite thickly, so it
a firm hold to take the whole can be quite costly in materials.
patch off. Wax should not be applied over the same area
twice, as the skin may burn.
Can be messy to apply so it is hard to keep the
equipment clean.
These considerations need to be thought about
when choosing equipment.

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 Practical skills

Type of wax Benefits Effects Possible drawbacks

Warm wax More comfortable on sensitive Warm wax is applied with a There is some risk of infection, as loose skin cells
skins than hot wax, and can be disposable spatula, in a very may also be lost during waxing, leaving hair
reapplied over the same area. thin coating and a fabric or follicles open to infection.
Even short hairs can be paper strip is applied over the As the wax is applied quite finely, it may not
successfully removed with top of the wax for easy removal remove all strong growth in one go.
warm wax. – rather like a plaster coming Strips have to be used with warm wax, and may
The equipment is easy to off. add to the cost of the treatment if not used
maintain and keep clean. The wax and hairs adhere to economically.
the strip. A single strip can be
used over again until it reaches
saturation point.

Cold wax This treatment can be done at Hairs are removed by an Not very economical if using on large areas as
home for a top-up treatment, impregnated strip, with no lots of strips will have to be purchased.

Unit B6
and is therefore convenient. heat. Not suitable on large areas of strong hair
growth.
As it can be applied to oneself, there is more
pain and discomfort than when a trained
therapist does it.
For self-administration the angle of removal may
not be correct for a swift, clean taking off, and

Carry out waxing services

that may be another reason for it to hurt.

Roller wax Very little possibility of cross- Precise application of the wax Very few, except that the initial outlay may be
contamination from the rollers. can be achieved because there high for purchase of the heaters and cartridges.
Very quick, clean and easy to is a variety of roller head sizes, The units are specially made to fit each
use. allowing more accuracy. manufacturer’s make of cartridge and therefore
Very economical. are not interchangeable if the type of wax
Safe – no possibility of spillage proves to be unsuitable.
as the wax is contained within
the cartridge.

Suitability of hair removal products for different parts of the body

Method Eyebrows Facial hair Legs Bikini line Forearms

Warm wax 3 3 3 3 3

Hot wax 3 Depends on skin sensitivity 3 Depends on 3 3 3

skin sensitivity

Sugaring 3 3 3 3 3

Hair removal creams 3 Care required 3 3 3 3

Tweezing 3 3 3 Only for 3 Only for 3 Only for

stray hairs after stray hairs after stray hairs
depilation depilation after depilation

Mechanical depilators 7 7 3 3 3

Cutting/shaving 7 Only to shorten brows 3 3 3 3

Shaving 7 7 3 3 7

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Method Eyebrows Facial hair Legs Bikini line Forearms

Creams – using any 7 3 3 3 3

depilatory cream will
depend on the results of
a skin sensitivity test

Epilation – more suited 3 3 7 Could be used 7

to smaller areas for smaller area

Laser – use will depend Due to goggles being worn, this 3 3 3 3

on skin sensitivity and area is not usually covered. Often
pigment of the hair between brows and above the
brow line

Waxing at a glance
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

Legs Eyebrows Upper lip Armpits Brazilian Bikini

Waxing facts Waxing really Waxing gives a A good way of Hot wax is still This does not You can keep
does slow down nice clean finish getting a tidy the favourite render you underwear on
the hair growth to the eyebrows upper lip with for underarm completely bare for this as they
after several – any stray hairs no shadow. It hair – several between the become the
treatments. can be tweezed does hurt but strips may be legs (that’s a guide line for
out. the result is needed if the Hollywood). A your treatment.
really clean. hair growth thin strip of hair
is circular or is left, so thongs
in different can be worn.
directions. Often called the
landing strip.

How long it Half leg 30 10 mins 5 mins 10 mins 15–20 mins 5 mins
takes mins; full leg
including bikini
45–60 mins

How long it lasts 4–5 weeks 3–4 weeks About 3 weeks 2–3 weeks 4 weeks 4 weeks
depending on
hair growth

Pain ratio 5/10 8/10 9/10 8/10 10/10 7/10

Other methods of hair removal

Hair removal creams
These creams use chemicals to break down the hair structure. The chemical is
calcium thioglycollate and it attacks the hair keratin layer. The hair dissolves and can
be scraped or washed away. Most over-the-counter preparations have a full list of
instructions for use, and timings may vary. This type of product is not always suitable
for young or sensitive skins and a reaction can occur. The regrowth is soft and with a
tapered end, so the hair does not feel spiky and sharp.

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 Practical skills

Cutting or clipping
Additional knowledge
Scissors will trim the hair. They can be used in between treatments, as this does not
Bleach can be used to lighten
distort the follicle. Scissors can obviously shorten long ‘whiskers’ but are not ideal for
hair instead of removing it. It is
achieving a smooth finish. This is not a long-term solution to superfluous hair.
suitable for clients who wish to
Shaving avoid waxing or as a temporary
Shaving is the chosen option for many people. It is a quick-fix option and can produce solution between treatments. A
clean results providing care is taken, a clean razor is used, and a suitable lubricant is sensitivity test should be carried
applied to the skin. Many razor companies have recognised the large female market out before use.
and have designed razors, creams, shaving foams and after-shaving preparations in
feminine colours and with attractive smells.
However, shaving is a double-edged sword! The ends of the hair are chopped at skin
level and are very blunt, so the regrowth is spiky and gives stubble.
Shaving is not suitable for the face or arms, as once started it becomes quite a chore

Unit B6
– if the hair growth is dark and thick, it could become a twice weekly job.

Tweezing
Tweezing of the eyebrows has always been done, but as the hairs are taken out
individually tweezing is not suitable for removing hairs from large areas. The hair
is pulled out of its follicle, and if the hair is taken out in the right stage of growth,
regrowth can take some time. The hair grows back with its natural tapered end so

Carry out waxing services

does not feel spiky to the touch. Care must be taken to avoid infection. The tweezers
should be clean and disinfected, and the skin cleaned and wiped with antiseptic.
Avoid applying make-up straight away as the follicle is open and there is a risk of
infection.

Threading
Threading is similar to tweezing. It is practised mostly in Asian communities and is
sometimes seen in Mediterranean countries. A piece of cotton is entwined around
the fingers and twisted over the hairs. The hair gets caught up in the thread and is
plucked out of its follicle. This is quite a skill and requires practice.

Abrasives
An abrasive glove or pumice stone is rubbed over the skin and the hair is broken off at
the skin’s surface. There are many over-the-counter preparations that have this effect.
They come in glove or mitt form and are sold as ‘a sensible alternative to waxing and
shaving’. They tend to resemble fine sandpaper in appearance.
For best results the skin must be dry, and the glove is rotated in a gentle circular
fashion. Do rub gently. Do rub in circular motions. Do not rub up and down. Key terms
The fine powder that appears is an accumulation of skin exfoliation. This makes the Exfoliation – shedding of dead skin
product ideal on dry rough skin, provided that soothing body moisturising creams are cells.
applied after use.

Conducting a skin sensitivity test

A sensitivity test should be carried out on a clean, dry area of skin, usually on the
forearm as this is hair free. Consult with your own Awarding Body and professional

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

therapies federation, as they may insist you carry out a sensitivity test on the area
Think about it
you are treating. The test should always be carried out at least 24 hours prior to the
If a reaction occurs, it will be treatment and recorded on the client record card.
noticeable as redness in the area of
the sensitivity test, which may also be
Having heated the correct type of wax to be used for the client, test it on yourself
itchy. This will indicate either that the for the correct temperature, then apply a small circle of wax to the client’s forearm.
wax type is unsuitable for the client, Remove as for hair removal and note any immediate reaction on the skin.
or that waxing cannot take place Put the details on to the client’s record card and ask her to monitor the result for the
at all. next 24–48 hours.
You must be tactful when informing the client that she is not suitable for treatment
Think about it if there is an adverse reaction to the sensitivity test. Be discreet, too, and tell her
somewhere private, rather than in the middle of reception where everyone can hear.
Not all methods of hair removal
are suitable for all clients. A full Warm wax and roller wax operate at much lower temperatures than hot wax, so an
consultation will be needed to alternative product might prevent a reaction from occurring. Another sensitivity test
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

establish which method is suitable will be required using the different product. If that proves satisfactory, and the client is
and agreeable to you both. happy, then the treatment can go ahead.
Remember a sensitivity test would
be advisable to people with sensitive Think about it
skin.
A good tip to pass on to the client who has booked for a waxing treatment is to take
a couple of over-the-counter pain killers prior to the treatment. This helps to block the
pain killing nerve endings in the skin, therefore the treatment will be less painful. The
a) front of legs b) back of legs pain killers must be ones the client has used before with no adverse reactions.

Establishing hair growth pattern before

application
The direction of your wax application will depend upon the way the hair is growing,
which varies in different areas of the body.
Closely examine the direction of the hair, from the point where it comes out of the
skin to its tip. Always work in the direction of the hair growth and you will get great
results.

The legs
Most hair on the front of the leg along the shins grows downwards towards the foot.
However, the hair along the calf muscle (gastrocnemius) often starts to grow across
Direction of hair growth on the legs
the leg, going sideways and downwards. This is often dictated by the pressure of
clothing on the hairs.
Along the top of the thigh the hair starts to grow inwards towards the inner thigh, but
the bikini line tends to grow down and inwards.
The abdomen
The hair around the navel grows upwards from the pubic hairline, and then forms a
circle around the navel. You may need several small strips to completely remove the
circular pattern. Be careful if the client is menstruating – she may wish to avoid the
area because of pressure. Do not wax a client on the abdomen if there is a possibility
she may be pregnant.
Hair growth pattern on abdomen

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 Practical skills

The arm Direction of hair

growth on the arm
The hair on the forearm tends to grow sideways across the arms, rather than
downwards towards the hand and wrist. It usually grows from the inner to the outer
sides.
Underarm hair varies – some clients have perfect circles of hair around the pit of the
arm, some have downward hair and some have hair growing sideways. Very often
more than one strip is required to remove underarm hair.

The face
Hair on the upper lip tends to grow in the male pattern of a moustache, that is
downwards from the nose towards the upper lip, with some longer hairs growing
down on the side of the lip.
Chin hairs often grow straight outward or down, depending on the strength of the hair.

Unit B6
Using methods of application correctly
Check this list before you apply the wax.
Is the working area fully prepared and the wax pre-heated?
Are you fully prepared with protective clothing and gloves?
Have all safety and hygiene precautions been observed?

Carry out waxing services

Are the manufacturer’s instructions being adhered to?
Has a full consultation been carried out?
Can the treatment proceed with no contra-indications present?
Has a sensitivity test been carried out before the treatment?
Has the client had a full explanation of the treatment so she knows what to
expect?
Has the client been fully informed with regard to aftercare and home care?
Direction of hair growth on the face
Has a record card been filled out for the client, or the existing one updated?
Has the area for waxing been examined in a good light and the best method of
waxing decided and agreed between the therapist and client?
Has the area to be waxed been cleaned so it is grease-free, has it been talced,
and has pre-wax lotion been applied?

My story
The importance of good waxing techniques
Hi, my name is Martine. When I left college waxing was the treatment I really enjoyed doing,
and the salon I worked for had a lot of regular waxing clients. As many of the clientele
wanted intimate waxing, the manager sent me on a course to learn the correct techniques
to use. It was a little strange at first, but I soon mastered the different methods. The course
made me aware of what could occur when treating clients in this delicate area. I now feel
confident and have many regular clients. It’s worth remembering that if you are not
properly trained, your insurance will be invalid.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Health and safety

Health and safety information for the different types of waxes used in a salon is
included on pages 426–32, along with potential hazards and first aid measures.
Refer to Professional basics, ‘You, your client and the law’, pages 48–68, for
legislation affecting all beauty treatments.
Below are general precautions for safe practice when waxing.
Do not have any naked flame near waxing preparations or equipment as the
ingredients make them very inflammable.
Do not have heating units near anything flammable, e.g. curtains, in case the
thermostat breaks and the wax ignites.
Do not have the heater on a glass-topped trolley, in case the glass breaks and
molten wax spills.
Do a thorough consultation, check for contra-indications and carry out a sensitivity
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

test prior to treating the client.

Firmly stretch and support the skin in fleshy areas to avoid bruising, especially in
the bikini and underarm areas.
Be aware of your own professional guidelines regarding insurance cover and the
use of gloves and protective clothing.
Thorough moisturising after waxing can help to avoid the problems of ingrown
hairs, which is when the hair grows back under the skin causing infection. This is
always a problem with continual waxing.
When hot waxing, never allow the wax to become too cool on the skin as it will
be too brittle to remove effectively, and may cause the client a great deal of
discomfort.
With hot wax always test the temperature on yourself and carry out a small
patch test on the client to avoid giving a burn.
With organic wax do not allow too much of a build-up on the muslin strip as this
can cause undue lifting of the skin during removal.
With organic wax it is important to keep the angle of pull on the muslin strip
horizontal to the skin’s surface, as the hairs can break off at the skin’s surface and
bruising can occur in fleshy areas.
A thin layer of wax is more effective than a thick layer on a strip. Too much wax
builds up on itself and does not coat the hairs. It is therefore less effective.
For maximum comfort and minimum embarrassment give the client lots of towels to
protect her modesty, especially with a bikini wax. Plenty of protection will make the
client feel more secure and means that the therapist can manoeuvre her into good
positions for easy and effective removal. Ensure that the waxing area has adequate
ventilation, especially with hot wax, which can give off fumes when first heated.

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 Practical skills

Risk assessment for hot and warm wax equipment Think about it
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety, Follow all electrical precautions:
pages 71–86, for a complete discussion of risk assessment. ensure there are no trailing wires
to fall over, carry out regular
Hazards: look for hazards that you would reasonably expect to result in significant maintenance checks for efficient and
harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following examples as a safe working of machines, follow
guide. manufacturers’ instructions, follow
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead). health and safety guidelines.
• Burning of equipment (through low wax level in the tank).
• Burns to skin (not testing wax temperature first on self).
• Ejection of materials (spitting hot wax).
• Electricity (e.g. poor wiring).
• Manual handling (spillage possible if moving when in liquid form).

Unit B6
• Falling machinery (if not securely positioned on a trolley).
• Contamination (poor waste disposal of contaminated wax strips).
• Cross-infection (ignoring possible contra-indications).

Many of the health and safety topics relevant to Unit B6 are covered in Professional
basics, or in Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety.

Carry out waxing services

Applying and removing the product
Leg wax
The lower leg is a simple area to treat as the hair growth can be seen easily. The
hairs usually grow towards the ankle on the front of the leg but may go slightly
sideways on the calf. Hair growth may be coarse if the client has shaved the area
and results are usually good as the hair growth in the area is strong. Moving the leg
around slightly will allow access to the ankle hair if the growth pattern is not straight
down. The client may ask for the toes to be waxed too.
1 The client can be lying down, or sitting up for the front of the legs. Remember,
though, to put the couch back into a flat position before the client is turned over
for the backs of the legs.
2 It is important that the client’s clothing is protected, so provide a towel for cover.
Be aware of protecting the client’s modesty if repositioning is required.
3 Cleanse the area and prepare for waxing following the usual sanitising procedure.
4 Start from the ankle and work up the leg systematically.
5 To keep the skin taut at the knee, ask the client to bend it.
6 Turn the client over (lowering the couch) and follow the same routine with the
back of the leg. Pay special attention to the hair growth, which may be not
straight down.
7 Do not apply wax to the back of the knee. There are usually no hairs present here,
but if there are a few, then tweeze them.
8 If completing a full leg wax continue up the thigh at the front and then turn the
client over, again paying attention to the direction of growth.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Step-by-step warm wax application for legs

1 Clean the whole area to be waxed with 2 Blot the area with a tissue to ensure the 3 Test the wax on your inner arm to make
a suitable antiseptic cleanser on damp skin is dry and grease-free. certain you will not burn the client.
cotton wool.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

4 To avoid cross-infection drizzle the wax 5 If temperature is acceptable to you, 6 Following the hair growth, i.e.
on to another spatula – it will also help you apply a small area on to the legs to check downward, apply a thin even strip of wax
to check that the consistency is workable. with the client that the temperature is to the leg, approximately the width of the
tolerable for her. paper strip.

7 Press down firmly over the wax strip, 8 Peel back a small edge of the strip to 9 Holding the leg, grip the wax strip edge
to ensure all the hairs are fully attached to hold on to. and pull the strip off. It is almost a peeling
the strip. back of the strip, but it must be quick, to
minimise pain.

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 Practical skills

10 Any missed hairs, too short for the wax 11 After-wax lotion will remove any wax 12 The finished result should be a
to pick, can be tweezed out. Sterilise the residue. moisturised, hair-free front of leg.
tweezers first.

Unit B6
13 Ask the client to turn over – remember 14 As the hairs grow in different directions, 15 Check the direction of the hair growth,
to ensure you put the back of the couch you will need to cut the wax strips into which may be diagonal as shown here.
down first. Repeat the cleansing and manageable sizes. Remember to test the wax again – first on
blotting process. yourself and then on your client.

Carry out waxing services

16 Apply a thin even strip of wax to
the leg, following the hair growth, i.e.
diagonally as shown here, and repeat the
process as for front of leg

Think about it
Check with your own professional body with regard to the use of spatulas. Most state
that once a spatula has come into contact with the skin, it has become contaminated
and should be thrown away and a new one used for the next application. Refer to
codes of practice for waxing.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Note: Some Awarding Bodies only expect gloves to be worn if there is a danger of drawing
bodily fluids, for example, underarm or bikini line. Therefore, it may be permissible to wax
legs without gloves.
Warm wax is applied in a thin film using a spatula in the direction of hair growth with a
firm press, without hurting the client.
1 Test the wax prior to use on the inside of the wrist. If it is at a comfortable
temperature for the therapist, it should be fine for the client, but also test a small
patch on the wrist or ankle of the client depending upon the area to be waxed.
2 Take up a manageable amount of wax on the spatula and twist it so that it stays on
the end. Remove any excess on the side of the pot. In the other hand have a folded
tissue covering the palm to catch any drips from the spatula and any spillage during
the transfer from pot to client.
3 Transfer the wax onto the skin following the hair growth, holding the spatula at a
90-degree angle, and spread a strip-sized width of wax on to the hairs. (As skill levels
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

increase and practice is gained, you will be able to apply and quickly remove longer
strips.) Support the skin with the free hand.
4 Firmly press the fabric or paper strip and rub down several times to bond the wax to
the hairs in the direction of the hair growth. Leave a small flap free at the end of the
strip with which to grip the strip for removal.
5 Using the flap, grip firmly, stretch the skin slightly with the free hand and pull the
strip away from the skin, going back against the hair growth, with the strip almost
going back on itself, in one swift movement. Try not to lift upward as that may cause
skin damage. The swiftness of the hand really does make a difference to the pain the
client will feel. Do not hesitate, or stop halfway through, as that is just prolonging the
agony.
6 Apply a little pressure to the area with your hand to help reduce the tingling and pain,
which occurs after strip removal.
7 Work in a logical sequence over the whole area to be treated taking care not to miss
any hairs, but avoid overlapping the strips as that will mean the skin may be sore in
that area.
8 The strip will last for several removals before it becomes too laden with wax to pick
up any more hairs. When that stage is reached, fold the wax strip in on itself so that
the clean side is on the outside and place it in the bin with a liner that is designated
for contaminated waste. Use a fresh strip for the next removal and continue.
9 After the waxing is complete, if any stubborn, stray hairs remain, they should be
tweezed out with a sterile pair of tweezers. With warm wax it may be possible to
reapply a strip over an area with lots of hairs remaining, as there is little skin reaction
at low temperatures. This is not advisable with the higher temperature of hot wax.
10 Apply after-wax lotion liberally and go over aftercare with the client.
11 Clearing up can now take place. This is as important as the rest of the treatment as
cross-infection can occur through the contaminated waste. Dispose of used spatulas,
wax strips, gloves and couch roll in the appropriate bags (unless the strips are to be
used again).
12 Clean the equipment with the recommended manufacturer’s cleaner and clean the
plastic couch covering. Wash hands and begin with the next client.

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 Practical skills

Step-by-step warm wax application for eyebrows

1 Cover the closed eye with a damp 2 Decant petroleum jelly onto a spatula, 3 Remember to test the wax on your
cotton wool round and cleanse the eyebrow using a covered orange stick; apply to hairs forearm, before applying to the client. You
area with suitable cleanser. Cut up some you do not want to remove. This barrier do not want to burn the delicate eye area.
small pieces of paper or material strips. stops the wax sticking to the hairs.

Unit B6
4 Apply a small amount of wax to the 5 Using a small piece of wax strip, press 6 Stretch the eyebrow. Remove hairs
area under the eyebrow, working in the on to the arch, under the eyebrow. Smooth against the hair growth, that is working
direction of the hair growth. Take care not to over with your finger, to ensure all of the inwards towards nose. The movement

Carry out waxing services

dribble wax on to the client’s face. hairs are stuck to the strip. needs to be quick to avoid pain, and it is like
peeling back on the strip. Apply after-wax
lotion.

1 Cleanse the eyebrow area, having removed make-up, and follow all the usual
sanitising procedures.
2 Cut a large wax strip into smaller manageable strips.
3 Discuss the shape required with the client taking into account face shape and the
direction of hair growth.
4 Apply a suitable barrier cream to the eyebrows not being removed – this will
prevent the wax adhering to them and avoid accidental total eyebrow removal.
5 Apply a small amount of wax to the hairs being removed, following the direction of
hair growth (an orange stick may be a more suitably sized applicator than a spatula).
6 Press the small strip firmly to the skin.
7 Remove the strip against the hair growth and continue to shape the eyebrow as
required.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

8 Use a hand mirror to consult the client at every stage, and be flexible to client
suggestions.
9 Follow aftercare and home care routines.

Step-by-step warm wax application for the lip and chin

1 Cleanse the upper lip area. The skin 2 Decant petroleum jelly onto a spatula, 3 Remember to test the wax on your
should be clean and grease-free. Blot if using a covered orange stick, and cover the forearm, before applying to the client.
necessary. lip up to the lip line.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

4 Carry out a sensitivity test. Use a 5 Build up a good layer of wax on upper 6 The finished result.
small drop of wax near the area, to test the lip. Ask the client to smile slightly to help
temperature is acceptable to the client. stretch the skin. Remove as for all hot wax
application and apply after-wax lotion.

Lip wax
Think about it
Cleanse the area and follow the usual sanitising procedures.
Do not to press too hard on the jaw
area, especially if the client is wearing Protect the upper lip with barrier cream.
dentures. Apply wax to one side of the upper lip using a small spatula or orange stick and
following the hair growth.
Apply and remove a small strip back on itself, pulling the skin as taut as possible
but being careful of the nose.
Repeat on the other side.
Being careful not to re-wax the sides, apply wax to the centre panel working down
to the centre of the lip.
Apply aftercare and discuss home care routines.

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 Practical skills

Chin wax
Remove make-up and cleanse the area, following normal sanitising procedures.
If the hairs are very long, trim with scissors, but not too short for waxing.
Protect the lower lip with a barrier cream if going near the lip area.
Apply the wax following the hair growth.
Stretch the area and remove the hair with a small strip against the hair growth,
keeping the skin as taut as possible. The client can help by jutting out the lower
jaw and placing the tongue over the lower teeth.
Repeat until all hairs are removed.

Step-by-step warm wax application for the bikini and thigh area Think about it
1 Clients should be in a reclined position with either a pillow for support or resting Make the client aware that as the
the leg on the couch. hair in this area is strong terminal

Unit B6
2 Pay special attention to both client modesty (provide a towel) and protecting the hair, there may be blood spotting,
client’s undergarments with tissues or couch roll. and that it is not unusual for this
reaction to occur. Cold compresses
3 If the hair growth is long, trim with scissors, but not too short.
can be applied and careful aftercare
4 Hold the skin tight when applying the wax. If the area is fleshy, the client may and home care must be adhered to.
help by stretching the leg as wide as possible.
5 Pay attention to hair growth patterns. Several directional strips may need to be

Carry out waxing services

applied rather than one big one.

1 Protect the edge of the client’s 2 Clean the area with suitable cleanser, 3 After testing temperature on yourself,
underwear with couch roll. You can avoid leaving the skin clean, dry and grease-free. apply the wax with the hair growth, in a firm
embarrassment by asking the client to tuck pressing motion. Usually this is a downward
the couch roll in. direction towards the inner thigh.

4 Apply the wax strip 5 Should any blood

and press onto the spots appear, apply
hairs. Ask the client to light pressure with a
help stretch the skin, clean tissue and then
to minimise pain, and wipe them away. Apply
remove the wax strip after wax-lotion.
against the direction of
hair growth.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Forearm
1 Apply wax following the hair growth 2 Press wax strip firmly onto arm, 3 Remove against the hair growth,
pattern stretching skin stretching the skin

1 The client can be semi-reclined, or if this is the only area of the body to be waxed, the
client could sit opposite the therapist across the couch.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

2 If the client’s sleeves are rolled up, remember to protect the clothing.
3 Follow the usual pre-wax preparation and cleansing routine.
4 Wax is applied in the same way as on other parts of the body; that is, following hair
growth.
5 The skin can be kept taut by grasping the underside of the skin not being worked upon.
6 Follow aftercare and home care routines.
Step-by-step warm wax application for underarms
1 Protect the client’s clothing with couch 2 After testing on yourself, apply the 3 Firmly press the strip down to bond the
roll and cleanse the area. A light dusting wax, going with the hair growth. If hairs are hairs to it.
of talcum powder or talc-free product will diagonal, then go in that direction.
absorb any residue perspiration and make
the hair stand out from the skin.

4 Stretch the armpit 5 Should any blood

area and, if necessary, spots appear, apply
ask the client to help, light pressure with a
with her free hand. Grip clean tissue and then
the edge of the strip wipe them away. Apply
and quickly and firmly after-wax lotion.
remove the strip against
the direction of hair
growth.

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 Practical skills

1 The client’s armpit should be stretched and extended as far as possible.

2 The client should be in a semi-reclining position or flat down on the couch,
depending upon client preference.
3 Follow the standard procedures for cleansing and hygiene.
4 Study the hair growth carefully as underarm hair can be very diverse in its growth,
and some underarm hair can grow in circles.
5 Small strips should be used, and the hair may need trimming before treatment.
6 Remember to protect the bra with couch roll or tissues.
7 The skin can be extremely delicate and there is a danger that infection may occur,
causing glands to swell.
8 Never treat the underarm if mastitis is suspected.
9 Aftercare and home care are extremely important for underarm treatment.

Unit B6
Area Time

Eyebrows 10 minutes

Facial (lip and chin) 15 minutes

Full leg 45 minutes

Half leg (up to knee) 20–30 minutes

Carry out waxing services

Underarm 15 minutes

Bikini 5 minutes

Forearm (wrist to elbow) 20 minutes Treatment time guide for warm wax

The above is a guide only – the time it takes to complete a wax treatment will
depend upon the amount of hair growth, how strong the growth is, and how
experienced the therapist is. In time and with experience, timings can greatly improve
as the confidence and judgement of the therapist improves.
However, it is important to remember to be cost-effective when waxing with both time
and use of materials.

Hot wax application Additional knowledge

Hot wax application is a skill that needs more practice than warm waxing, but many The abdomen is also suitable
beauty therapists trained in hot wax prefer to use it. As the temperature is higher, the for warm wax hair removal,
removal of strong, coarse hairs is very effective and it gives a nice clean finish. although it is not a range in this
qualification. The same application
Unlike warm wax, hot wax is applied as a thicker layer, which is built up by firstly
techniques would apply.
going with the hair growth and then against the hair growth, until sufficient thickness
for removal has been achieved. The procedure is as follows.
1 Test the wax on yourself on the inner wrist. Then, if the temperature is
comfortable, test a small patch on the client on the area to be worked upon. If
the client confirms that she is happy with the feel of it, commence the treatment.
2 Look closely at the hair growth in the area, as this affects both application and
removal.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Step-by-step hot wax application for legs

1 Cleanse the area with a 2 Test the hot wax on your
suitable cleanser, to make forearm before applying any
sure that the skin is dry and to the client.
grease-free. Apply a light
dusting of talcum powder or
talc-free powder – this will
make the hairs stand up.

3 Decant a good amount 4 Test a small patch of

Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

of hot wax from the pot wax on the client, to avoid

on to another spatula, to burning the skin.
avoid contamination. The
consistency of wax should
be like soft treacle.

5 Working against the 6 When the wax layer

hair growth to begin with, looks set, pressure from the
apply the wax in a figure of knuckles will help bond the
eight shape. As you keep hot wax to the hairs. The
applying, you will build up a wax takes on a matt finish
thick patch of wax. as it cools.

7 Using the same 8 The hairs should be

techniques as with a wax clearly visible, embedded
strip, flick a lip up, and in the wax strip you have
gripping firmly, quickly removed.
remove the patch of wax –
against the direction of hair
growth.

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 Practical skills

3 Gather a manageable amount of wax on to the spatula, and keep the spatula
Area Time
twisting to avoid drips, wiping any excess on to the edge of the heater. A tissue
in the free hand, held underneath the spatula, will catch any drips on the way Eyebrows 10–15 minutes
from heater to couch. Facial (lip and chin) 10–15 minutes
4 The wax should be the consistency of icing ready to go on a cake: spreadable
Full leg 45–60 minutes
but not too thick. Apply the wax, and build up several layers, working firstly
against and then with the hair growth. Ensure that the edges are quite thick too, Half leg (up to knee) 20–30 minutes
as when the wax is removed, the edges may break off if too thinly applied.
Underarm 15 minutes
5 Try not to make the strips too large as this makes them difficult to remove.
Two or three applications should give a covering about 3 mm thick. Avoid the Bikini 15–20 minutes
temptation to apply too many layers, as the wax will just build up on itself and Forearm (wrist to 20 minutes
not adhere to the hairs. elbow)
6 The trick is to be quick, and apply several patches in one go. As the first patch is
Treatment time guide for hot wax
setting slightly, the second and third can be applied. Do not let any of them dry
out totally on the skin, as they will become brittle and break off, and will hurt

Unit B6
the client when removed.
7 A thick lip on the edges of each patch will allow a firm grip when removing.
8 As each strip starts to set slightly, press with the fingers. It should feel dry but
still supple to the touch, and the lip can be flipped up.
9 Grip the lip you have created and with the other hand pull the skin slightly away
from the wax patch to minimise client discomfort. Be quick and firm, and swiftly

Carry out waxing services

remove the wax against the direction of hair growth.
10 Immediately soothe the area by applying pressure to it. Quickly move on to the
next patch as that will be setting.
11 Fold each wax strip in on itself, with the hairs inside, and put them into the
lined bin for disposal into the collectable waste bin.
12 Should there be any small remains of wax, press the larger patch over the area
and the remains should be picked up easily.
13 Work methodically all over the area to be waxed in a pattern, so that all hairs
are removed, but avoid overlapping and therefore over-waxing.
14 Any hairs that have escaped may be tweezed away, and the result should be
clean and clear. The skin will be slightly pinker than with warm waxing because
of the higher temperature.
15 Aftercare and home care advice can be given. A soothing after-wax lotion can be
applied, and a nice gesture is to provide the client with a sample-size aftercare
lotion to take away and apply at home.
16 Clearing up can now take place. This is as important as the rest of the
treatment, as cross-infection can occur through the contaminated waste.
Dispose of used spatulas, wax, gloves and couch roll in the appropriate bags.
17 Clean the equipment with the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner and clean
the plastic couch covering. Wash hands and begin with the next client.

Think about it
This treatment guide is dependent upon the skill of the therapist. Hot wax needs to
be nurtured up to the correct working temperature and consistency, and then used.
Temperature control is vital when using this method and this can affect the treatment
timings. The application of hot wax requires more training and a higher skill level.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Preparation – you, your working area

and the client.
Ensuring the client is satisfied with the finished
result
The client will appreciate it if you discuss the finished result with her. You can make
Two waste bins with liners.
sure the client is satisfied, and that the agreed treatment plan has been met.
Carefully check the area over. If necessary, tweeze the odd hair away using sterilised
Choose wax most suitable for client tweezers.
and area. Heat it up half an hour
before appointment. Check the results before applying the aftercare lotion, as this makes the skin quite
slippery so the odd hair is more difficult to pick up with the tweezers.

On the trolley: A mini-massage while applying the aftercare lotion is always very soothing to the
• antiseptic cleaner nerve endings, and finishes the treatment with a pleasant feeling for the client. You
• talc do not have the time for a full massage routine, however.
• fabric / paper strips
• disposable gloves Once you’ve completed the treatment, take time to fill out the client record card.
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

• wooden spatulas
• tissues and cotton wool Were there any reactions during the treatment that will affect the future treatment
• jewellery bowl plan? Remember, it may not be you doing the next treatment.
• scissors and tweezers
Did the client express any preferences or dislikes for waxing mediums?
• after-wax lotion
• record card. Would you leave something out next time?
Did the client feel much pain? An over-the-counter painkiller could be taken prior
to the next treatment.
Consultation, with record card. Fully
explain treatment. Were products purchased?
How was the skin reaction? Were there contra-actions?

Provide aftercare advice

Wash hands.

Test on self and patch test on client.

In this outcome you will learn about:
• giving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
Area to be clean and grease-free. • giving the clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs.
Commence treatment.

Giving aftercare and home care advice

After wax – wash hands.
It is important that you discuss aftercare and home care with your client during the
consultation, so that her skin reactions and contra-actions can be explained and
Aftercare and home care.
understood.
A leaflet to take away is ideal for your client to refer to, as she may not take in all the
information, especially if she finds the treatment painful.
Dispose of used spatulas, etc. Clean
working area. Immediate aftercare
Your client should realise that the waxed area will be red and there may be some
blood spots, especially where the hairs are strong, i.e. on the bikini line or underarm.
Wash hands. The after-wax cleanser should be applied to remove any sticky remains on the skin
followed by after-wax soothing lotion to help cool the skin and keep it moisturised.

Start again with next client. Home care

Waxing Your salon may like to devise a home care card like the one below:

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 Practical skills

Aftercare – for a period of 24 hours: Think about it

t No sunbathing or sunbeds t Avoid tight clothing For 24 hours after waxing, advise the
t Avoid bathing in sea or t Do not use perfumed products
swimming pool
client to avoid:
on the area
t Do not take a hot bath or t No make-up or self-tanning • t ight clothing
shower preparations • hot baths/showers, or swimming
t Do not use deodorant / anti- t Do not keep touching or picking • sunbeds, sunbathing or other
perspirant at the area
heat-related treatments
• applying perfumed products,
including deodorant, and make-up
Waxing home care card
to the area.

Long-term home care advice

Encourage your client to look after the skin on her body as she would the skin on
her face.

Unit B6
Lots of moisturiser will stop the skin becoming too dry, especially in the winter
months when legs are kept under trousers and tights.
Sloughing the skin with a loofah in the shower will help keep the blood circulation
stimulated, bringing lots of oxygen and nutrients to the skin to keep it in good
condition.
Massage will help remove the build-up of toxins in the skin and keep the area

Carry out waxing services

both nourished and smooth. Instruct your client to always work towards the
lymph nodes to help the body’s natural lymphatic drainage.
Exfoliating the skin will help to stop the hairs becoming ingrown.
Gentle exercise, regular sleeping patterns and eating plenty of fruit and
vegetables, while cutting down on smoking and alcohol, and drinking lots of Think about it
water really do work, and not just for the face. When giving treatment advice
Before leaving the salon, the client should be encouraged to make a repeat and recommendations for other
appointment, usually in 4–6 weeks. However, this will depend upon the colour and treatments, be accurate and
constructive. Consider what you and
density of the hair and the area. It is important to stress to the client that for effective
the client can realistically achieve.
waxing the hairs should be at the correct length.

My story
Never ignore aftercare advice!
Hi, my name is Nicola. I won’t forget my first leg wax! It was a lovely, sunny For your portfolio
day and I was looking forward to going on holiday. I was telling the therapist all Devise an aftercare or information
about it. She advised me not to sunbathe or to apply any products to the area leaflet that you can give to a client
for 24 hours after the treatment. When I got home, I wanted to show off my following a waxing treatment.
beautiful hair-free legs! So, forgetting the therapist’s advice, I put on sunscreen Consider both the short- and
and went and sat in the garden for a couple of hours. I really wish I hadn’t – by long-term aftercare that will be
early evening my legs were so painful. I learned my lesson the hard way and now appropriate. Produce the leaflet on a
always listen to the aftercare advice I’m given. computer.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Frequently asked questions

Q What would happen if grease is left on the skin?

A The skin has a barrier of grease or oil on it which will prevent the wax getting
a grip on the hairs. Always clean the skin thoroughly to prevent this barrier
building up.
Q Can waxing take place on any length of hairs?

A If the hairs are too short, they will not stick to the wax.

Q What would happen if the wax is not hot enough?

A The removal of the hairs will not be effective and the wax could matt,
making removal difficult.
Q What would happen if the wax is applied too thickly?
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

A The wax will not be able to get a grip on the hairs, and will congeal on
itself.
Q What would happen if the wax is applied or removed in the wrong direction?

A The hairs will not be removed and this can cause pain and discomfort to the
client.
Q What would happen if the skin is not pulled taut when waxing?

A The skin will be too slack, and the wax will set into the body’s natural
creases – very common when first attempting underarm waxing. Pull the
skin so it is taut and ask the client to help. This makes it easier to apply
the wax, and it is also less painful. This method should be adopted when
waxing all areas.
Q What would occur if the wax was not removed quickly enough?

A This will result in an ineffective removal of hair, and pain for the client. Try
not to lift upwards when removing the strip; always try to bring the strip back
on itself. Be bold and confident, and it will be less painful and give a better
result.
Q What would occur if hairs are not trimmed when too long?

A Hairs should be trimmed to prevent tangling and ineffective removal

(especially on the bikini area).
Q What should you do if the skin is red after the first strip is removed?

A This could indicate that the wax is too hot. You should test it on yourself and
the client before application. The pressure that has been applied with the
spatula may also have dragged on the skin, so ensure that the wax is of the
correct consistency before application.

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 Practical skills

Check your knowledge

1 Waxing is a: 7 The main ingredients used in hair removal wax are:

a) permanent method of hair removal a) resins and beeswax
b) temporary method of hair removal b) starch and flour
c) long-lasting method of hair removal c) sugar and water
d) short-term method of hair removal. d) crystals and polish.
2 Hot wax is most suitable for use on: 8 Pre-wax lotion must be used to:
a) strong hair growth a) dry up the skin
b) weak hair growth b) cleanse the area
c) bent follicles. c) make the area smell nice
d) make the hairs stand on end.
3 Hair removal creams are:
a) suitable for all skin types 9 Talc or talc-free products are used to:

Unit B6
b) not suitable for all skin types a) make the skin smell nice
c) a painless method of hair removal b) provide a coating for the wax to stick to
d) a permanent method of removal. c) make the hairs stand away from the skin
d) make the skin white.
4 Warm wax is:
a) most suitable for all areas 10 After-wax lotion helps:
b) easy to apply a) soothe the skin

Carry out waxing services

c) not easy to apply b) stop the area going pink
d) a temporary method of removal. c) make the skin smell nice
d) calm the client down.
5 Hot wax works best at a temperature of:
a) 48–68°C 11 A patch test must always be carried out, to:
b) 20–30°C a) try out the heat of the wax on the client
c) 60–80°C b) see if the client is suitable for treatment (i.e. no reaction occurs)
d) 15–20°C. c) let the client know it hurts
d) give the client a bald patch on her arm.
6 Warm wax works best at a temperature of:
a) 48–68°C 12 Aftercare is important, because:
b) 20–30°C a) it prevents the client from irritating the area after the treatment
c) 60–80°C b) it stops you from being sued for poor treatment
d) 15–20°C. c) it’s just part of the job
d) it stops the client from picking at the area.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

Once you have practised and feel fairly confident about all The areas to be treated include the eyebrows, face to
the skills in this unit, you can then think about how you can include lip and chin, full and half legs, underarm, bikini line
develop your techniques to meet employer expectations of a in both hot and warm wax. You must be seen to treat at
good therapist who can wax well. An employer or assessor least four different clients on at least four occasions.
would be looking for the following, especially if you were
As well as performing the treatment and leaving a good
asked to perform a trade test for a job application.
clean result, the assessor will be checking that you have:
• Minimise any wastage of product, strips or consumables
• used all consultation techniques
you use during the treatment, including couch roll,
tissues and cotton wool. Imagine you were paying for • carried out waxing treatments on all areas with hot and
all of the items you used – you will soon realise that warm wax
money is wasted if you throw away half-used products. • have dealt with at least one of the necessary actions in
When waxing, try not to end up with little bits of the range
fabric or paper strips, or if you do, save them for small • covered all the criteria for effective work techniques to
Unit B6 Carry out waxing services

areas, such as when you do a lip wax or eyebrow wax. ensure the client has a pain-free treatment
Split couch roll and tissues where possible and be • provided suitable aftercare and home care advice.
economical with the amount of wax used.
Remember that waxing is a skill that requires a lot of
• Minimise discomfort to the client by developing good
practice to improve both your technique and cleanliness.
techniques for the removal of wax – be firm, confident
Before attempting an assessment, make sure you have had
and quick. Remember to smooth the area afterwards –
sufficient practice to feel confident and self-assured in your
a soothing touch really does calm the nerve endings.
knowledge of what to tell the client.
• Keep checking your client’s well-being and be
sympathetic. Even though some seasoned clients go Although the areas of the body are specified, you may be
to sleep when being waxed, it can be quite painful – it able to cluster your assessments. One client may have
depends upon the pain threshold of the individual. Now several areas waxed in one treatment, and they all count.
is a good time to introduce other treatments, discuss Be careful that the length of hair is right. If the hairs are
possible enhancing treatments, and take the client’s too short, the wax does not have enough of the hair shaft
mind off the waxing process. to adhere to, so the results will be patchy. If the hairs are
• Keep an eye out for any contra-actions which may too long, it will be advantageous to trim them down with
arise, and follow the appropriate procedure. Give good scissors before starting. Otherwise the hair will become
immediate aftercare, and then home care advice. It tangled and again the results will not be clean.
may be that the treatment has to stop, and you invite
Be very careful to check the direction of hair growth, as that
the client to come in at a later date when the area
will dictate the direction for your wax strips. Show that you
has calmed down – or you might offer an alternative
understand the relevance of hair growth even if it means
treatment if one is available.
using smaller strips, say for a circular direction of underarm
• Work methodically in a logical sequence, so you do hair growth.
not miss any chunks of hair growth. In time, your
own technique will develop and you will find yourself Be clean and hygienic, and check with your professional
automatically working in a patchwork pattern, which body about when to use gloves. The best clean results on
works well for you. An employer does not often dictate the skin will be spoilt by an unhygienic treatment approach
how you achieve the end result, nor do many Awarding and a messy workstation with wax on the floor.
Bodies, but a good clean result is essential. Do not forget to test the wax on yourself and to carry out a
As this is a full practical unit, simulation is not allowed for small patch test on the client before you begin – burning
any performance evidence within this unit. the client’s skin will not gain a competent assessment.
The assessor is looking at the whole approach, including
client care, hygiene and a good result.

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 Unit N2/N3

Provide manicure
and pedicure
services

Unit GH8
What you will learn
2.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working
when providing manicure services
2.2 Consult, plan and prepare for the manicure service
2.3 Carry out manicure services
2.4 Provide aftercare advice
3.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working
when providing pedicure services
3.2 Consult, plan and prepare for the pedicure service
3.3 Carry out pedicure services
3.4 Provide aftercare advice

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
Key terms
The practices of improving the appearance of the natural nail and cuticle are known
Manicure – the care of hands and as manicure and pedicure.
fingernails.
This unit focuses on the treatment of natural nails and cuticles on hands and feet.
Pedicure – the professional
Units N2 and N3 have been combined in the book as many techniques are common
treatment of feet, toes and nails.
to both skill areas.
Manicure is a popular service in salons as smooth skin, well-shaped and varnished
nails are vital in promoting a well-groomed appearance. As a therapist carrying out
Think about it
treatments in manicure and pedicure you need to be aware that there is a code of
Remember health and illness can practice that should be followed when providing this service. The Code of Practice for
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

often be detected in the nails. Nail Services provides guidelines to protect both the therapist and the client, and it is
Healthy nails require a balanced diet important that you know what it says.
with essential vitamins A , B, and D,
along with minerals calcium, zinc and Regular professional attention will help prevent minor nail damage. This service is
iodine. becoming increasingly popular with men who have regular treatments as part of their
professional lives.
Pedicure is the professional treatment of feet, toes and nails. This service greatly
For your portfolio enhances the appearance of feet and toenails, which are often a neglected part of the
body. Professional attention to the nails and surrounding skin encourages nail growth,
Read the Code of Practice for Nail
keeps cuticles pushed back and can prevent minor skin conditions.
Services on the Habia website. If you
are able to do so, you can print off Benefits for the client:
a copy to keep as reference; if not improves the appearance of the nails
make a note of the important points.
softens the surrounding skin
enhances overall appearance of grooming (important for men as well as women)
immediate and visual effect.
Benefits for the therapist:
mainstay salon service
variety of treatments can be performed to enhance basic treatments and increase
salon revenue
can be used as part of a salon promotion, e.g. leg wax and pedicure for the
summer.

You will be required to create different looks to cover the ranges in the standards

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 Practical skills

As well as being able to successfully carry out a manicure or pedicure treatment, you
will need to have an understanding of the structure of the nail and relate treatments
to the bones, muscles and skin of the hands and feet. Refer to Related anatomy and
physiology section and You and the skin for information on these areas.

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working
In this outcome you will learn about:
• p reparing the work area and environment to meet legal, • e nsuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue

Unit N2/N3
hygiene and industry Code of Practice for Nail Services and the risk of injury while working
requirements • ensuring the client is in a comfortable and relaxed position
• ensuring your personal appearance meets accepted industry that permits access and minimises the risk of injury to you
Code of Practice for Nail Services and organisational and the client
requirements • disposing of waste correctly to meet local authority
• wearing suitable personal protective equipment for the work requirements and the industry Code of Practice for Nail
that conforms to the industry Code of Practice for Nail Services Services
• ensuring all tools and equipment are cleaned using the correct • ensuring that the service is cost-effective and is carried out
methods within a commercially viable time
• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to nail services • leaving the work area and equipment in a condition suitable

Provide manicure and pedicure services

• maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices for further nail services
throughout the service • ensuring the client’s records are up to date, accurate, easy to
• selecting and correctly positioning suitable equipment, materials read and signed by the client and technician.
and products for the nail service

Before beginning this section, many of the topics you need to know are addressed
in earlier units, and you will need to refresh your memory by referring to the topics
covered within Professional basics. Please refer to:

The unit For topics on:

Professional basics – You and your client (pages 31–48) Hygiene and avoiding cross-infection
Salon requirements and presentation

Professional basics – You – the therapist (pages 11–31) Personal appearance

Personal safety

Professional basics – You, your client and the law (pages 48–68) Risk assessment
Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and Preparing the working environment to meet legal,
safety (pages 71–103) hygiene and treatment requirements

Professional basics – Making effective use of your working time

You – the therapist (pages 11–31) Ensuring the use of clean resources
You and your client (pages 31–48) Ensuring your own posture and position minimises
You – the therapist (pages 11–31) fatigue and risk of injury while working
You, your client and the law (pages 48–68) and Unit G20 Make sure Disposing of waste materials safely and correctly
your own actions reduce risks to health and safety (pages 71–103)

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Preparing the work area and environment

Preparation is the key to being a professional beauty therapist regardless of the
treatment being carried out.
Many salons have a designated working area for manicure and pedicure treatments.
Sometimes this is in the reception area. Wherever you carry out a treatment you
should ensure all materials, equipment and products are within easy reach.
The area required for manicure and pedicure varies greatly, with more versatility in
manicure than pedicure.

Think about it Manicure Pedicure

Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Your salon will have correct work Client across a couch Sitting only – can be combined with a
wear to conform to industry manicure
standards and this should always be Sitting across a table
worn when undertaking treatments.
At a manicure station

In a hair salon while having hair done

Think about it Client lying on a beauty couch while
Some pieces of equipment are having a facial
designed only for single use. The
extra cost of these items should be
reflected in the prices for manicure
Selecting equipment and materials for manicure
and pedicure treatments. Which and pedicure treatments
items could be considered single use? To ensure that no cross-infection or contamination occurs, the manicurist must make
sure everything is clean.

Emery board
For your portfolio
This has two sides: a coarse side for
Cost the price of single-use items.
shortening nails and a fine side,
Find out the cost of buying in bulk
which is used for shaping and
and then work out the individual
bevelling. Emery boards are difficult
item price.
to clean although some manufacturers have
Do you think that the cost has been developed special cleansers for this purpose. If you cannot
taken into account within your salon
clean the file, it should be disposed of, or given to the client.
price list?
Orange stick
The two ends of the orange stick each have a different purpose. The
Think about it pointed side is used to apply cuticle or buffing cream. The
other side, when tipped with cotton wool, can be used
When disposing of single-use
to clean under the free edge, remove excess
items remember to put them in the
enamel and ease back the cuticle. When
appropriate waste bin.
tipped with cotton wool this should be
disposed of after each use. If not tipped,
they are only for one use.

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Cuticle knife
Think about it
This is used to mould back the cuticle and remove
Remember to sterilise all metal
any excess attached to the nail plate.
equipment: it should be placed in
Cuticle nipper a chemical steriliser or autoclave.
Used to remove hangnails and dead skin around the cuticle. While performing the treatment,
cleanse with a suitable sanitising
Nail scissors solution. (Refer to Professional basics,
Used to cut nails. pages 41–43, for information on
sterilisation and sanitisation.)
Toe nail clippers
Used to cut and shorten nails prior to filing.

Unit N2/N3
Nail buffer
A pad covered with chamois leather and with a handle.
Used in conjunction with buffing paste. Buffing adds
sheen, stimulates circulation and growth at the matrix.
Useful in pedicure, male manicure or when nail
varnish is not going to be applied. To clean, wipe
with a suitable cleansing solution.

3-way buffer
This is used to smooth the nail and to remove any longitudinal

Provide manicure and pedicure services

and horizontal lines. Wipe between uses with a suitable
cleansing solution.

Nail brush
To brush the nails and clean them effectively. Also used to clean the
therapist’s nails. Wash in hot soapy water or sterilise in a chemical
solution. Usually plastic, may be wooden, with a rubber end to ease
back the cuticle. Pointed, and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean
under free edge. When using from nail to nail, clean with a steriliser.
On completion of treatment, sterilise in a cold sterilising solution.

Hoof stick
Usually plastic, may be wooden, with a rubber end to ease back the cuticle. Pointed,
and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean under free edge. When using
from nail to nail, clean with a steriliser. On completion of treatment,
sterilise in a cold sterilising solution. Think about it
Hard skin rasp/file/grater Some chemical solutions may dissolve
To be used after the feet have been soaked and can be the glue that attaches the rasp
used in conjunction with hard skin remover. Use element or bristles in this equipment.
on areas of hard skin in a rubbing action with light All metal equipment should be
pressure. Wash after use in hot soapy water and regularly checked, e.g. hinges and
remove debris; sterilise in chemical solution. springs on scissors and clippers.
Also check that cutting surfaces are
Pumice stone smooth and sharp. Once sterilised
As with hard skin rasp. all equipment should be stored
hygienically to prevent contamination
occurring.

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Manicure bowl
This contains warm soapy water and sometimes a few drops of oil or
a soaking solution. This softens the cuticle ready for pushing back. To
clean, wash in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly.

Towels
Use a clean towel for each client. It is useful to protect it with couch
roll. Remember to have a separate towel for your personal use.

Couch roll
This is tissue that can be used to cover trolleys, and for drying hands
and feet in the absence of towels. Dispose of after use.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Tissues/cotton wool
Use a different tissue or piece of cotton wool for each hand/foot.

Spatulas
Break wooden spatulas after use. Wipe clean plastic or metal spatulas with a
suitable cleansing solution when using between different products. Sterilise in
chemical solution after use.
Ensure that all products and equipment that cannot be sterilised are disposed of in
the correct waste bin.

Selecting products for manicure and pedicure

treatments
The following products are required for manicure and pedicure treatments:
cuticle cream nail varnish/enamel
buffing paste base and top coats
hard skin remover nail hardeners
massage medium nail strengtheners.
Key terms talcum powder
Cut-out system – method used For all these products use the cut-out system, or pump action dispensers as
for preventing infection being spread these will prevent contamination of the product between uses. When using pump
from one area to another, e.g. using dispensers, do not allow the spout to come into contact with the client’s hands or
a spatula to take cream from a pot. feet. Chemicals contained within varnishes will prevent infection spreading, but to
avoid any infection use the client’s own product or sell the product to the client.

Nail enamel/varnish remover

A solvent used to dissolve nail enamel. It is usually a mixture of acetone, glycerol
and perfume. Acetone can have a drying effect on nails and surrounding skin. Some
products also contain ethyl acetate (see below).

Nail enamel/varnish thinners

A solvent, usually ethyl acetate, used to thin down thick nail varnish/enamel. Nail
enamel/varnish remover should not be used for this purpose due to the oil content
contained in the remover. This may cause the varnish to discolour or separate.

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Cuticle cream/oil
An emollient (softening, soothing) agent applied to the cuticle to make it pliable.
Creams contain soft white paraffin, mineral oils and some also contain lanolin. Oils
are a mixture of almond and jojoba and mineral oils.

Cuticle remover
A liquid or cream designed to dissolve and break down the cuticle to make removal Key terms
easier. This contains potassium hydroxide (which is caustic), water and glycerol. As Caustic – dissolves the skin; e.g.
it is caustic, cuticle remover should be rinsed off the nails and skin directly after use. cuticle remover.
This product can be used as a nail bleach.

Nail hardeners

Unit N2/N3
Used to strengthen fragile nails. It is a liquid which is painted on and allowed to soak
into the nail plate. It acts as a binder to harden the nail.

Nail strengtheners
A mixture of powder acrylic and liquid plastic is painted on. Once set will reinforce the
nail but still be flexible. This product is often combined in a base coat.

Rough skin remover/exfoliators

A cream or lotion containing abrasive particles, oils, emollients, perfume and water.
Used to soften skin and aid removal of hard skin.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

Buffing paste
An abrasive paste used in conjunction with a chamois buffer to smooth out ridges on
the nail plate. The abrasive elements in the paste may be a mixture of kaolin, chalk,
silica or talc.

Hand cream/massage cream

A cream that provides lubrication for massage and softens skin. It contains emollient,
glycerol, lanolin, water, emulsifiers, colour and perfume.

Hand lotion
Contains the same elements as hand cream but has higher water content. It is
therefore less sticky than cream.

Nail enamels and varnishes, base coat and topcoat

These products all have the same basic contents:
a film firming plastic, e.g. nitrocelluose
a plastic resin, e.g. aryl sufonamicide
a gloss, e.g. formaldehyde
a plasticiser, e.g. castor oil for flexibility
Think about it
solvents to dissolve other substances causing the nail enamel to dry, e.g. ethyl
acetate. Many of the products used in
manicure and pedicure treatments
Coloured enamel/varnish are covered by COSHH regulations
Colour is given by the addition of pigments, and a pearlised effect is made by adding, (refer to Professional basics, page 54).
for example, bismuth oxychloride (for a metallic shine). Always refer to the manufacturer’s
instructions prior to use.

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Base coat
Applied before colour, to prevent staining of the nail plate and to give a smooth
surface for the coloured varnish to stick to.

Topcoat
Applied after colour, to give extra durability against knocks and wear for cream
colours. Pearlised varnishes/enamels already have these additives to give this
durability.

Nail bleach
Stains, such as dyes and nicotine, will discolour the free edge of the nail. Cuticle
remover can lessen the staining as it may act as a mild bleach, but 20 per cent
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

hydrogen peroxide will be most effective. This method is useful if the client wishes to
have a natural finish or French varnish finish.

Nail white pencils

Used on the underside of the free edge when coloured varnish is not used. Use
moistened.

Nail repair kit

Used for splits or tears in nails – comprised of fibrous tissue and liquid adhesive.

Quick dry spray

Contains solvents that evaporate and speed up the drying process.

For your portfolio Minimising the risk of injury

Look at the Health and Safety When setting up the work area make sure that your position and posture minimise the
Executive website for further risk of harm to yourself, and prevent fatigue. Your trolley should have all the correct
information regarding dermatitis. If tools, materials and products on it, and be within easy reach to prevent strain.
possible print off the information, or
make notes for a group discussion.
The client should also be positioned so that she is comfortable and relaxed.
As a therapist, it is essential that you protect yourself from developing contact
dermatitis, an inflammation of the skin caused by constant contact with harsh
Think about it substances such as nail varnish remover. (Refer to You and the skin, page 202, for
more information on dermatitis.) You should regularly check your hands, wash and
Contact dermatitis can stop a
dry them thoroughly, and apply moisturiser and barrier cream. Disposable gloves can
therapist from working, so hand care
be worn when dealing with harsh substances to prevent contact.
is very important as your livelihood
could be at stake.
COSHH regulations for manicure and pedicure
preparations
Think about it The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations control the
If you don’t effectively sanitise your safe use, disposal and storage of products (see Professional basics, page 54).
hands and those of your client when
Many of the preparations used in manicure and pedicure treatments are governed
checking for contra-indications,
by these rules. Therefore, as a manicurist, you have to know how to use these
you could be open to infection.
Remember your hands are your tools
products correctly.
within beauty therapy – it is up to
you to protect them.

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Cuticle remover
Description
A solution of sodium hydroxide in water with other cosmetic ingredients.
Contains sodium hydroxide.

Ingredients
All ingredients are commonly used in cosmetic products and meet accepted
standards of purity.

Hazards
Considered to be hazardous if precautions are ignored.

Unit N2/N3
Flammability
Non-inflammable.

First aid procedures

Ingestion: drink milk or water and seek medical attention.
Inhalation: avoid. If prolonged inhalation occurs, remove to fresh air and keep
warm.
Skin contact: avoid. If prolonged contact occurs, wash well with water. If irritation

Provide manicure and pedicure services

persists, seek medical advice.
Eye contact: wash well with water for a minimum of 15 minutes and always
seek medical help immediately from a qualified doctor or hospital.

Spillage
Clean using liberal quantities of water.

Handling and storage

Always wear gloves and avoid contact with skin and eyes.
Store in a cool place away from direct sunlight. Keep closures tightly sealed.

Cuticle massage cream

Description
An emulsion of oils, waxes, water and water-soluble ingredients, emulsifiers,
fragrance and preservatives.

Ingredients
All ingredients are commonly used in cosmetic preparations and meet acceptable
standards of purity.

Hazards
Considered to be non-hazardous under normal conditions of use.

Flammability
Non-inflammable.

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First aid procedures

Ingestion: drink milk or water.
Eye contact: wash well. If irritation persists, seek medical advice.

Spillage
Clean using absorbent material, wash with detergent and water.

Handling and storage

No special precautions are necessary.

Non-acetone nail polish remover

Description
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

A mixture of organic solvents.

Ingredients
All ingredients are commonly used in cosmetic products and meet accepted
standards of purity.

Hazards
The product is considered hazardous if precautions are ignored.

Flammability
Inflammable.

First aid procedures

Ingestion: drink milk or water and seek medical advice.
Inhalation: avoid. If affected, remove to fresh air and keep warm.
Skin contact: avoid. If prolonged contact occurs, wash well with water. If irritation
persists, seek medical advice.
Eye contact: wash well with water for a minimum of 15 minutes. If irritation
persists, seek medical advice.

Spillage
Clean using liberal quantities of water.

Handling and storage

Avoid contact with skin and eyes.
Store in a cool place away from direct sunlight. Keep tightly sealed and store in a
fire-resistant cupboard.
Fire: advise fire service of storage quantities.

Acetone
Description
Dimethyl ketone or 2-propanone.

Ingredients
This product is commonly used in cosmetic products and meets accepted standards
of purity.

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 Practical skills

Hazards
Considered to be hazardous unless normal safety procedures are followed.

Flammability
Flammable.
Flash point 17.2 = Highly flammable.

First aid procedures

Ingestion: drink plenty of milk or water.
Inhalation: may cause dizziness, remove to fresh air.
Skin contact: avoid prolonged contact with the skin. If irritation persists, seek

Unit N2/N3
medical advice.
Eye contact: rinse, seek medical advice.

Spillage
Clean contaminated area with lots of water, wash with detergent and water to avoid
slippery floors. Do not absorb with combustible material, e.g. paper tissues.

Handling and storage

Store in a cool place away from direct sunlight, in a fire-resistant store.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

Fire: contents are flammable. In case of fire evacuate areas known to contain
products and inform fire-fighters of their presence.

Treatment timings
Your first manicure or pedicure treatments may take you some time, but once
you have more experience, you should be able to perform treatments within a
commercially acceptable time. It is important at the consultation stage, and when
booking, to allocate enough time for the treatment. Always confirm the amount of
time with clients – they may only have a lunch hour for treatment.
A salon will always want a service to be cost-effective. This will not only take into
account the quantity of products and amount of heating and lighting a service uses
but, more importantly, the time it takes, including the therapist’s salary. If a service
runs over time, this will impact on the rest of the day.
Here are some commercially acceptable times for these treatments
Treatment Timings
Manicure without polish 25–30 minutes
Manicure with polish 35–40 minutes
File and re-polish 10 minutes
Pedicure without polish 40–45 minutes
Pedicure with polish 50–55 minutes
Pedicure soak, file and re-polish 15 minutes
Commercially acceptable timings. For
Manicure and pedicure without polish 1 hour
a specialist treatment, 15 minutes will
Manicure and pedicure with polish 1 hour 15 minutes be added to the service

For a specialist treatment, another 15 minutes will be added to the service.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

If the client requires treatment to improve both the condition and appearance of
Think about it
nails and the surrounding skin, the initial appearance at the consultation should
If the client is having treatments identify that regular treatments are necessary, for example weekly over a six-week
using a specialist range of period, followed by a maintenance treatment every 4–6 weeks. This applies to both
products, this should be taken into manicure and pedicure treatments.
consideration and the correct time
allowed, and agreed with the client. How you decide on the appropriate timing and type of treatment must be mutually
If nail extensions are to be removed, agreed with the client. The same treatment plan will not be suitable for all clients
you will need to add an additional because of individual needs, such as:
30 minutes on to the service time for work commitments money available
your treatments. home life time available.
leisure activities
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Think about it
Matching lipsticks could also be sold
Consult, plan and prepare for the
to colour coordinate with the nail
varnish.
service with clients
In this outcome you will learn about:
• u sing suitable consultation techniques in a polite and friendly manner to record the
service plan
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the client prior to carrying out the
service
• ensuring that informed and signed parental or guardian consent is obtained for
minors prior to any service
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout the service for minors
under the age of 16
• asking the client appropriate questions to identify if they have any contra-indications
to manicure/pedicure services
• accurately recording the client’s responses to questions
• encouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points
• ensuring client advice is given without reference to a specific medical condition and
without causing undue alarm and concern
• disinfecting the client’s hands/feet and effectively removing any existing nail polish to
restore the nails to a natural condition
• actively identifying the condition of the nails and skin
• explaining your assessment of the client’s nail and skin condition in a clear way to
help their understanding
• recommending suitable treatments and products for the client’s skin type and nail
condition
• taking the necessary action in response to any identified contra-indications
• agreeing the service and outcomes that are acceptable to your client and meet their
needs.

Consultation techniques
In addition to the equipment you will use, ensure you always keep a client record
card to hand to ensure a professional treatment. All client records are confidential
and should be held in accordance with the Data Protection Act (refer to Professional
basics, page 63).

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These are the points you should cover during your consultation with the client:
Think about it
contra-indications varnish used
Clients under the age of 16 should
skin and nail conditions (treatable) home care advice
have signed parent or guardian
nail shape sales consent before the service can take
occasion (e.g. wedding) next appointment/recommendations place, and a parent or guardian
should be present throughout the
products used therapist’s name.
service. Remember too that you need
contra-actions to obtain the signed consent of all
Encourage her to ask questions regarding the proposed treatment or service in order clients before carrying out a manicure
to ensure that both the client and therapist are in agreement and that, if required, the or pedicure service.
service is adapted to the client’s individual needs.

Unit N2/N3
Shaping the nail For your portfolio

At the consultation stage you will need to consider the shape that would most suit What could happen if you do not
correctly record the feedback that is
your client: discuss this with the client. It is important to remember that it is the
given to you by the client? List some
client’s choice, and, as a manicurist/therapist, you can only make recommendations.
areas that you will need to consider,
You will need to consider the client’s working environment. Nail shapes should
and then discuss them with your
usually conform to the shape of the fingers for a more realistic and natural
colleagues.
appearance. The following are shapes to be considered. Toe nails should always be
filed straight across and not shaped, to prevent ingrowing toe nails.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

Square
This shape is usually most suitable for manual workers
or clients who do a lot of work with fingertips, e.g. typists,
pianists.

Round
This is a good shape for clients who require a short neat
Square Round
style. It decreases the likelihood of breakage or injury. It is
suitable for clients with large square hands.

Oval
This shape can appear to lengthen the fingers for a more
elegant appearance. It is usually suitable for small
hands.

Pointed
This shape is liable to breakage due to the exaggeration Oval Pointed
of the shape. It is therefore most suitable for special
occasions.

Squoval
This is one of the most popular shapes used in manicure. The nail is slightly
rounded in at the edges to prevent stress fractures of the nail plate and then
filed straight across the top.

Squoval

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Salon life
My story
My name is Tanusha and I’m a therapist in a busy health spa.
I spend a lot of my time giving clients’ manicure and pedicure
treatments. I really enjoy them as the result is instant and a hand
or foot massage can be a great stress reliever for the client. There
are so many finishes to choose from; no two treatments are exactly
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

the same. You can choose from plain high buff right through to
exotic paint and gem finishes. One of my clients had booked in for
a pedicure as she was going on holiday and wanted her toes to
look nice when she was wearing sandals. When she booked her
appointment, the receptionist forgot to advise her to bring some
open-toed sandals to go home in. Unfortunately the salon had run
out of quick-dry spray and the client was in a rush to get back to
work but didn’t want to smudge her polish. One of my colleagues
went and found the supply of disposable flip flops and we gave
the client a pair to wear whilst her toes dried. The client went away
happy, and her pedicure remained in tip top condition!

Benefits to client and therapist ASK THE EXPERTS

Benefits of manicure/pedicure for client:
Q When giving clients aftercare advice, how often
• Improves appearance of hands and nails should I suggest that they return for a further
• Aids joint mobility treatment?
• Results are immediately visible A This will vary from client to client – no two clients
are the same. The initial consultation will identify
• Visually pleasing
the condition of the nails and their desired outcome
• Treatment can be tailored to suit skin and nail condition for the treatment and it may be that regular
treatments are necessary; for example, a weekly
Benefits of manicure/pedicure for therapist: treatment for a period of six weeks followed by
• Staple salon treatment which increases revenue a maintenance treatment every 4-6 weeks. Other
• Can be offered as part of a promotion or treatment factors that need to be taken into consideration
package; for example, bridal/summer holiday when devising a treatment plan include the client’s
work commitments and lifestyle and the amount of
• Excellent retail opportunity; for example, polish, files
time and money they have available.

Top tips
• If you don’t supply them in the salon, always get the client to bring flip flops for a pedicure treatment. Get the client to put the
flip flops on before applying the varnish to prevent smudging.
• If the client does not have flip flops – or it’s too cold to wear them! – and you have no quick-dry spray, apply massage oil over
the toe nails and lightly wrap in cling film before the client puts on her shoes. This will prevent the nails from smudging on the
way home.

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Contra-indications to manicure and pedicure

It is important to establish during the consultation if contra-indications are present.
A contra-indication means that the service cannot be carried out, as the client is
unsuitable for this particular treatment, or that the service needs to be adapted. If an
area with a contra-indication is treated, there is a risk of contamination and cross-
infection occurring.
You need to assess not only the condition of the nails but also of the surrounding
skin to establish if the treatment can be carried out. If a contra-indication is found it is
important not to diagnose and refer the client to a medical practitioner for advice and
treatment if required
The area to be treated should be examined in good light (refer to pages 184–197

Unit N2/N3
and 236–239, for further information regarding skin and nail analysis). If natural
daylight is not suitable and the salon lighting is inadequate, a magnifier lamp could
be used to judge if any of the following conditions are present. Details should be
recorded on the client record card. Here are the most common contra-indications that Key terms
are found and associated with manicure and pedicure treatments. The term onychosis Onychosis – any nail disease.
is used to describe any nail disease. Fungal infection – an infection
Fungal infections such as athlete’s foot that thrives in
damp moist conditions.
Fungal infections spread very rapidly and often thrive in damp areas, and can appear

Provide manicure and pedicure services

soft and spongy. Fungal infections should not be treated by manicure and pedicure.

Onychomycosis (pronounced on-ee-ko-my-ko-sis) or ringworm

This is a fungal infection caused by the Tinea unguim fungus, otherwise known as
ringworm. The infection invades beneath the free edge, spreading into the nail bed
and then attacking the nail plate. The nail plate becomes brittle, rough and opaque,
and separation starts to occur due to the build-up of scales between the nail bed and
nail plate. This can also make the nail plate appear very thick. Yellow discoloration
may also be present.
Ringworm of the hands is a highly contagious disease. The symptoms are papular,
red lesions, which occur in patches or rings over the hands. Itching may be slight to
severe.
Athlete’s foot (ringworm of the foot) – in acute conditions deep, itchy, colourless
blisters can appear, either singly, in groups, and sometimes on only one foot. They
spread over the sole and between the toes, perhaps involving the nail fold and
infecting the nail. When the blisters rupture they become red and ooze. The lesions
dry as they heal. Fungus infection of the feet is likely to become chronic. Both the
prevention of infection and beneficial treatment are accomplished by keeping the skin
Athlete’s foot (ringworm of the foot)
cool, dry and clean.

Bacterial infections
This type of infection is usually characterised by swelling, tenderness and redness in
the area. Bacterial infection is a contra-indication to treatment.
Think about it
Ringworm is a highly contagious
disease and must not be treated. If in
doubt, refer the client to her GP.

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Paronychia (pronounced par-on-ik-ee-ah)

This is a bacterial infection of the nail fold, the two types of bacteria generally
responsible being staphylococci and streptococci. In paronychia, the nail fold is
damaged either from a bad manicure, or by the hands being constantly immersed in
water and harsh detergents. The symptoms are erythema, swelling and tenderness
around the nail fold. There may be signs of slight shrinkage of the nail plate, which
is separated from the nail bed. If the condition is not treated, then the symptoms are
accompanied by pus formation under the nail fold. After this, other types of bacteria
Paronychia set in, turning the nail plate a dark brown or black colour. Eventually, if the condition
is not treated, a fungal infection known as Candida takes over. Candida is the worst
form of paronychia and is hard to destroy. The more common form of paronychia
Key terms is very often found among dental and nursing staff. Paronychia should not be
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

manicured.
Erythema – vasodilation of the
blood capillaries, causing surface
Whitlows (Panaritium)
reddening of the skin.
These are small abscesses at the side or base of nail. The skin around the nail
becomes soft and open to infection by Herpes simplex virus or by bacteria, usually
through a prick with a dirty pin or other sharp object. Nails with this condition must
not be manicured.

Onychia (pronounced on-ee-kee-ah)

This is the inflammation of the nail matrix, accompanied by pus formation. Improper
sanitisation of nail implements and bacterial infections may cause this disease. Nails
with this condition must not be manicured.
Viral infections
These infections are very common and treatment can be adapted by using a
waterproof dressing and avoiding the area. Gloves should be worn by the manicurist,
as viral infections are highly contagious if touched, and disposed of after use.

Verruca vulgaris (common warts)

These are small and highly contagious. They are caused by a viral infection. They
are rough and hard and can be darkish in colour or natural skin tone. They are found
either singly or in groups and appear around the nail fold area. They create pressure
above the matrix, which can lead to deformities appearing in the growing nail plate
(dystrophy). Warts should be left alone or untouched since they tend to disappear of
their own accord, as suddenly as they appear. Area must not be manicured unless
covered with a suitable waterproof dressing.
Verruca vulgaris (common warts)
Verruca plantaris (verruca of the foot)
This condition belongs to the same family as the common wart, but instead of being
raised on the surface of the skin, verrucas tend to grow inwards, so until they get
fairly large the client can be unaware of having a verruca. They are often caught in
swimming pool areas and are highly contagious. The skin’s surface can be smooth
and the appearance can be like a circular piece of hard skin with a black dot or dots in
the centre.

Verruca plantaris (verruca of the foot)

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Parasitic infections
Think about it
Scabies is a parasitic infection caused by a small mite that burrows into the skin,
Although you must know what to
leaving tell-tale red tracking marks. This condition is highly contagious and under no
look for, you must never attempt to
circumstances is the client to be treated.
diagnose fungal, bacterial, viral and
Other conditions parasitic conditions and disorders
Eczema – clients who have eczema can be treated, providing the area is not open yourself as you are not medically
trained to do so. Always refer clients
and weeping. Caution may be required when selecting products so they do not
to their own GP for treatment.
irritate or dry the skin.
Psoriasis – the same rules apply as with a client who has eczema.
Dermatitis – certain products could cause dermatitis to flare up, so caution should
be used when selecting suitable products. Again, you should not treat if the area

Unit N2/N3
is open or infection is present.

Contra-indications that may restrict the service

There are also other conditions that may require an amendment in treatment but are
not necessarily a reason for stopping treatment.

Onycholysis (pronounced on-ee-ko-lie-sis) or nail separation

This is a disorder where the nail separates from the nail bed (usually only part of
and not the whole nail). It results from a build-up of debris found in the moist warm

Provide manicure and pedicure services

space between the digits, which attracts bacteria and fungal organisms, and in severe
cases turns the nail plate a dark green or black colour. The infected nail plate grows
faster than those that are uninfected. In feet, onycholysis occurs through wearing a
tight-pinching shoe, poor general circulation and lack of attention to foot care.
Non-infectious nails can be manicured or pedicured as long there is no fungal or
bacterial infection. However, severe separation should not be treated.

Onychocryptosis (or ingrowing nails)

This may affect either the fingers or toes. In this condition, the nail grows into the
sides of the flesh and may cause infection. Filing the nails too much in the corners
or over vigorous cutting is often responsible for ingrowing nails. If the area is open or
infection is present, this would prevent the treatment from taking place.

Split nails, brittle nails (Defluvium unguinum)

Normally these are the result of abuse with drying agents, like those found in harsh
detergents, cleaners, paint-strippers and film-developing fluids. Cotton-lined, rubber
gloves are good protection. Since the nail begins forming at almost the last finger
joint, sometimes injury to the finger or diseases like arthritis can result in split nails.
If accompanied by an overall dryness of skin and hair, split nails could indicate poor Paronychia due to in-growing toenail

circulation.
Treatment will increase the circulation, bringing more nutrients and oxygen to help
with cell regeneration. Hydrate the nail plate and surrounding skin with hot oil or
paraffin wax. The use of a cuticle cream or oil for home use will be effective between
treatments. Manicure should be given.

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My story
Focus on manicure and pedicure
Hi, my name is Aisha. A client came into the salon for a manicure. She had brittle, ridged
nails. I asked her how long she had worn nail extensions as her nails showed weakness often
seen by clients who have worn nail extensions for a long period of time. The client said that
she had never worn nail extensions, but when I carried out the consultation I realised that the
nails were fragile due to the medical treatment she had been receiving. It was an important
lesson for me to remember that health is reflected in the condition of the nail plate.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Blue nails
Usually a sign of bad circulation of blood or a heart condition, manicures and
pedicures may be given and massage usually helps circulation.

Beau’s line
This is a disorder caused by an acute illness. As a result, the matrix temporarily stops
producing new cells for the duration of the illness. When it once again begins to
reproduce, the period of the illness is clearly marked by a definite furrow or series of
Beau’s line
furrows. This grows forward and eventually disappears as it is cut away as part of the
free edge. This disorder is non-infectious and can therefore be manicured.

Nail biting/finger biting (onochophagy – pronounced on-o-ko-fag-ee)

This is a nervous habit where the individual bites and chews the free edge of the nail
plate right down to expose the bulging nail bed below. The individual may also chew
at the hardened cuticle and nail wall, causing a multitude of hangnails.
Nails should be regularly manicured. Massage and buffing will help to increase
circulation and therefore stimulate growth. The use of special preparations to
discourage nail biting may be recommended.

Finger biting Hangnail

This is a condition whereby the cuticle around the nail plate splits leaving loose, flaky
pieces of dry skin. It is caused by extreme dryness of the cuticle and from not keeping
the cuticle free from the nail plate, so that it is stretched forward as the nail plate
grows and eventually snaps leaving hangnails.

Splinter haemorrhages.
These appear as tiny streaks of blood under the nail plate, usually near the tip.
Like nail separation, splinter haemorrhages can result from a traumatic blow to the
nail. Sometimes, however, these red streaks can indicate a liver disease or possibly
trichinosis (a ringworm infection caused by eating undercooked meat).
Splinter haemorrhages
Overgrown cuticles (Pterygium – pet-er-ee-gee-um)
This is caused by excessive cuticle growth that adheres to the base of the nail plate.
Suggest that your client has a manicure or that she gently pushes the cuticle back
with a soft towel after bathing and apply cuticle cream as often as possible. If the
cuticles are very dry, a hot oil or paraffin wax manicure will help hydrate the area.

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Pits and grooves

Key terms
These are linked to both dermatological disease and systematic irregularities.
However, many people who complain about pits and grooves in their nails have no Dermatological – of the skin;
apparent systematic diseases. It is very common and sometimes an unexplainable often referring to a skin condition.
phenomenon, which can be dismissed with gentle buffing.

Flaking and breaking nails (Onychorrhexis – on-ee-ko-rex-is)

This is a very common complaint. The nail plate becomes dry and brittle and can be
due to lack of vitamins A and B2, general ill-health, incorrect filing, excessive use
of enamel remover, or excessive use of solvents and harsh detergents. Use of a nail
strengthener may help this condition if applied regularly. It is also advisable to keep
the nails fairly short to prevent them breaking.

Unit N2/N3
Bruised nails
Bruising occurs when the nail receives a heavy blow. It is seen as a dark purple patch
on the nail which will grow out with the nail. In severe cases the nail may detach
itself from the nail base. Unless there is damage to the matrix, a new nail will grow
normally to replace it. Severely bruised nails should not be treated.

Eggshell nails
These are recognised by the nail plate being noticeably thin, white and much more
flexible than in normal nails. The nail plate separates from the nail bed and curves at

Provide manicure and pedicure services

Bruised nail
the free edge. This disorder may be caused by chronic illness or may be of systemic
or nervous origin.

Corrugations (or wavy ridges)

These are caused by uneven growth of nails, usually the result of illness or injury.
When giving a manicure to a client with corrugations, buff to minimise ridges and use
a ridge filler when painting for a smoother finish.

Furrows (depressions)
These may either run lengthwise or across the nail. They are usually the result of
an illness or an injury to the nail cells, in or near the matrix. The nails are fragile, so
care must be taken.

Leuconychia (pronounced loo-ko-nee-ee-kah) or white spots

These appear frequently in the nails but do not indicate disease. They may be caused
by injury to the base of the nail or they might be air bubbles. As the nail continues to
grow, these white spots eventually disappear. This is a very common disorder.

Other conditions of the feet

Callous
This is a hard build-up of skin that is often found in areas of friction or as a result of
incorrectly fitting shoes. The skin over grows for protection.

Varicose veins
These are visible, distended veins which are often present in the legs (especially the
lower legs). If serious, varicose veins will prevent massage taking place as this could
be painful and cause extra blood to flow in the area.

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Discoloured nails
This could be caused by the thickening of the nails due to age or fungal infection, or
could be the result of staining from nail polish.

Dry nails
This condition often causes the nails to flake and become brittle. Dry nails would not
contra-indicate treatment; a suitable service could be selected to help improve the
condition.

Thickening of the nail.

This is often present in mature clients, and is usually more commonly seen on the
big toe.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Bunions (Hallux valgus)

The term bunion refers to the swelling on the side of the big toe joint. The big
toe leans towards the second toe and as the swelling is prominent, this is prone
to rubbing from footwear. It can cause pain and inflammation. Bunions are often
hereditary, but other causes are injury, arthritis and muscle imbalance. Unless there
is severe pain or inflammation a bunion is not a contra-indication to a pedicure
treatment.
Bunions (Hallux valgus)
Corns
A corn is a small area of very thick skin; the overgrowth of skin penetrates the deeper
layers of the skin and can be very painful. There are two types of corn: hard and soft.
Hard corns are commonly found on the top or side of the little toe and are caused by
footwear rubbing the area. Soft corns are usually found between the fourth and fifth
toes and are soft as perspiration keeps them moist: these corns can become infected.
Corns if infected or painful should be a contra-indication to a pedicure treatment and
should be referred to a chiropodist. If there is no pain or infection, they can be treated.
Corns Nail shapes you might see
Koilonychia (spoon nails)
The nail plate is flat or concave giving a spoon-shaped appearance. This can be a
hereditary condition, can be due to anaemia, or can be caused by the client’s contact
with oils, soaps or detergents. The nails of newborn babies are often spoon shaped,
but this usually changes during their first year.

Onychogryphosis (claw or hook nails)

The nail plate of this condition is usually grainy and fibrous which gives it a thick,
Koilonychia (spoon nails) curved appearance. It is more common with toenails and is often caused by ill-fitting
shoes. On the hands it is usually caused by trauma, although in some cases it can
be caused by psoriasis of the nail. The nails should be kept short to prevent the nail
looking too claw-like. However, care should be taken when cutting as this can cause
bleeding.

Fan-shaped nails
The nail plate is narrower at the lunula and broadens out as the nail grows up to the
free edge, a squoval shape for this nail or a gentle oval shape would help balance
Onychogryphosis (claw or hook nails) the proportions

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Selecting and adapting manicure and pedicure

services to suit individual client needs
The condition of the skin and the nail need to be considered, along with the time that
the client has for the treatment. Cost should always be established as a client needs
to agree the treatment before it is started. Any adaptations need to be factored into
the treatment plan as a result of the consultation and contra-indication check.

Male clients
The male grooming market is one of the largest growth markets within beauty
therapy, so you should expect to treat men for both manicure and pedicure services.
The timing for a manicure treatment will need to be adjusted as there will be no

Unit N2/N3
polish application but a high buff shine will be carried out on the client.
The shape that is good for all male clientele is square and all other services such as
paraffin wax (see page 488) could be offered to enhance the condition of the nails
and surrounding skin.

My story
Guys only!
Hi, my name is Phillip. As an estate agent, I greet a lot of people, but as a nail-biter my

Provide manicure and pedicure services

hands and nails left a lot to be desired. My girlfriend goes to a salon that has a males-
only night once a month, so she booked me an appointment for a manicure. As it was
guys only, I didn’t feel out of place going to the salon, and my therapist Jasmine soon put
me at ease. She recommended a paraffin wax manicure which was pleasant and warming
and helped to hydrate my skin and cuticles. My treatment was finished with a buff which
made my nails shine and helps to stimulate nail growth. I enjoyed the treatment so much
that I now go once a month, and although I have not completely stopped biting my nails
the condition of my nails and hands is much improved.

Carry out manicure services

In this outcome you will learn about:
• confirming the desired nail length and shape with the client
• filing the nails correctly, ensuring that the nail free edge is left smoothed and shaped to the required length
• using the correct buffing technique for the service plan and the client’s needs
• applying suitable cuticle products for the client
• using cuticle tools and products safely and effectively, ensuring that the cuticle and nail plate are undamaged
• using hand and nail treatments correctly to improve the appearance of the client’s skin and nails
• using the correct quantity and type of massage medium to meet the service plan
• using massage techniques smoothly and evenly, at a pressure to the meet the client’s needs
• leaving the hands and lower arms free of any excess massage medium
• ensuring the nail plate is dehydrated and the underside is clean and free of debris
• applying a suitable base coat relevant to the client’s needs, if required
• applying sufficient polish coats and top coat for the desired finish, if required
• ensuring that the nail finish is left with a smooth even texture and with the cuticle and nail wall free of product and debris
• ensuring that the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction and meets the agreed service plan.

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Suggested manicure procedure

If you do specialised manicures and pedicures at your salon using a particular
brand of products, you will probably go on a course which shows you how to use
these products and gives an order for the procedure that should be followed. You
therefore need to adapt your treatments at all times according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. However, whichever products you use, the basic principles for manicure
and pedicure are the same.
Before starting the treatment, always carry out the following steps.
Ensure equipment is sterile and all materials and products are easily accessible.
Complete a consultation form, check for contra-indications (see above) and
discuss and agree with the client a service that meets their needs.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

Remove all the client’s jewellery, including watches, so that a thorough

treatment can be carried out. Keep in a safe place.

Step-by-step manicure
1 During the 2 Ask the client
consultation discuss to pick her choice
the needs of the of varnish – dark,
client and adapt plain, frosted or
the service to suit. French manicure. You
You should cover should recommend
preferred nail length a nail finish suitable
and shape and for the client.
the type of polish Remember, dark
colours will make
required. If there are
the nails appear
no contra-indications
shorter, so this may
present you are ready not be a suitable
to begin. colour for short or
bitten nails.

3 Remove the old 4 Cut the nails into

varnish and check shape if required,
the nails for ridges using sterilised
and problems as scissors. Nail
you go. Removing clippings need to be
the polish will allow caught in a tissue
the nail plate to and disposed of.
be examined in a
natural condition.
Sanitise the hand
to prevent cross-
infection while you
do a manual contra-
indication check.

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 Practical skills

45 degree angle

Think about it
When performing treatments on
the cuticle never push back or nip
beyond the eponychium or infection
could occur.

Think about it
Direction Do not use a sawing action as this
of filing
stroke can cause the layers of the nail plate
to split and separate.

Unit N2/N3
Bevelling seals the free edge
layers to prevent water loss
and damage.

5 File the nails 6 Bevelling seals

using an emery the free edge layers
board working to prevent water loss
outside in one way and damage.
one side and then

Provide manicure and pedicure services

the other – avoid
using a sawing
action.

7 Using an orange 8 Gently massage

stick decant and the cream into the
apply cuticle cream cuticles. This softens
around the cuticles. the skin, making
removal easier.

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9 Soak the hands 10 Remove one

in warm water hand at a time
(tested by you first) and dry the hands
to absorb the cuticle thoroughly.
cream and to soften
them.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

11 Apply cuticle 12 Using a hoof

remover with a stick flat to the
cotton wool bud. It is nail plate, gently
caustic, so take care push the cuticle
to apply sparingly back using circular
and not on to the motions.
surrounding skin.
Refer to COSHH
regulations and
the manufacturer’s
instructions.

13 You may need to 14 Cuticle nippers

use the cuticle knife may be used to
to ease the excess trim off the excess
cutile away from cuticle; use a tissue
the nail plate. This to dispose of the
waste.
should be kept flat
and the nail plate
should be damp so
that the nail plate is
not scratched. The
knife should also
be kept flat to avoid
cutting the cuticle.

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15 Bevel again, to 16 Using a suitable

give a smooth finish medium begin your
to the free edge. hand massage with
light effleurage
movements. Support
the hand and
effleurage right up to
the elbow.

Unit N2/N3
17 Circular thumb 18 Do circular
frictions get rid of frictions over the
tension in the flexors back of the hand.
and extensors of the
forearm.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

19 Support the 20 Grip the client’s
hand and give finger between your
gentle circular bent first and middle
manipulations to fingers and pull and
each finger – this twist gently down
will free tension in the length of the
the knuckles. Do not finger.
pull on the finger or
make the circles too
big.

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21 Interlock the 22 Apply circular

client’s fingers thumb frictions to
with your own and, the palm. Stretch the
supporting the palm out slightly.
forearm, gently
manipulate the wrist
backwards and then
forwards, to loosen
the wrist and get rid
of tension.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

23 Finish your 24 With warm soapy water, gently wash the nails with a soft brush
massage with to remove any grease from the massage medium. It is important to
effleurage up to the remove excess moisture, debris and product in order to prepare for
elbow. the nail finish. Buffing can be carried out at this point if a natural
finish is required. Buff from the matrix to the free edge to stimulate
growth and promote shine. Buffing may also be carried out prior to
polish, especially if the nail plate is ridged, as this could help to
minimise the ridges. A ridge filler could be used here before a base
coat is applied.

25 Apply a suitable
base coat. Some
nail systems have
joint strengtheners or
corrective properties
within the base coat.

Think about it
There are some commercially prepared soaking preparations
on the market, along with manicure bowls, to prevent spillage.

Think about it
The nail is made of three separate layers. ‘Bevelling’ holds
the layers together and prevents splitting if the edge is
traumatised.

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26 Apply the 27 A topcoat will

varnish of the client’s give a professional
choice, with clean finish and the results
strokes, without should look good for
flooding the cuticle some time.
area.

Unit N2/N3
Nail finishes
Nail painting techniques Method 1 Method 2

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When painting nails, it is important to remember the following points.
Try not to use more than four strokes per nail, as more strokes will make the
paint finish look streaky.
1
Hold nail enamel in non-working palm of hand and use finger to support nail
being painted.
4 2 3 3 1 2
Always allow coats to dry before reapplying. This prevents smudging and
streaking.
When painting large wide nails, leave a thin unvarnished line at each side of the This is the better
nail to produce a slimming effect. method for wide
Avoid flooding the cuticles with nail varnish, as this has a drying effect on the nails
skin.
Tidy up any flaws with a cotton wool bud soaked in varnish remover.

Selecting a suitable colour

It is important that you recommend a nail finish that is suitable for the client. When
selecting coloured enamel it may help your client if you remember these few rules.
Very bright colours draw attention to hands or feet.
Dark colours make nails look smaller.
Small hands or feet usually suit a light colour.
Oval-shaped nails suit most colours.
Orange, peach or beige tones emphasise the bluish tinges to the skin often seen
in clients with poor circulation.
Pearlised nails reflect the light and will emphasise any flaws in the nails.
Coloured enamel is not suitable for very short/bitten nails, or hands and nails Recommend a nail finish that is
suitable for the client
that are in poor condition.

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Drying nail enamel

Nail enamel will dry quite well on its own, but on occasions it may be necessary to
speed up the process. The application of either a topcoat dryer or quick dry spray can
be used. Nail-drying preparations do not completely dry the varnish but form a barrier
over the surface to prevent smudging. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions
and be aware of COSHH regulations when using these products. A light dryer can be
used to speed up varnish drying.

Buffed nails
Nails can be dried under a light dryer A buffer can be used to give a natural shine to the nail plate. Buffers come in many
styles, such as chamois buffers to be used with an abrasive buffing paste, or three/
four way buffers that have slightly different textures to each part to achieve the same
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

effect as using an abrasive paste. Buffing is the required finish for a male treatment.

French manicure
This is a popular way of varnishing fingernails that gives a natural look. Kits
that are sold usually contain white and flesh-coloured enamels. Always refer to
the manufacturer’s instructions for application. Below is a suggested method of
application.
1 Apply base coat.
2 Apply white enamel to free edge only. Allow to dry.
3 Apply flesh-coloured varnish to entire nail.
A nail art brush can be used to paint a 4 Apply a topcoat.
neat free edge
Risk assessment for manicure and pedicure treatments
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to health and safety,
pages 71–86, for a complete discussion of risk assessment.
Hazards: look for hazards that you would reasonably expect to result in significant
harm under the conditions in your workplace. Use the following examples as a
guide.
• Allergies (allergic reaction to chemicals used, nail enamel remover, nail polish,
cotton wool).
• Cross-infections (infections spread from contaminated tools, or lack of
sterilisation).
• Skin breakage/bleeding (caused by misuse of cuticle knife, or cutting of the skin
French varnish effect
with cuticle nippers, or cutting the skin when using nail clippers/scissors).
• Irritation (caused by scratchy tools, lack of lubricant when using knife on nail
plate).
• Contamination (caused by ignoring contra-indications to treatment).

For your portfolio

Why would it be important to ensure
Massage
that the client is happy with the Hand/foot and arm/leg massage (to elbow or knee) is included in manicure and
finished result before leaving the pedicure treatments. Refer to Related anatomy and physiology for information on
salon? Write a list of how it could the relevant bones, muscles and blood circulation, pages 224–229, 239–245
impact on the salon. and 249–255. The effects of massage on blood circulation are described on pages
483–84.

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 Practical skills

Massage helps to:

Ensure all equipment is to hand and
moisturise skin sterilised
aid desquamation (shedding of skin cells)
improve poor nail conditions
stimulate blood supply, aiding cell regeneration Consult to establish client
requirements (discuss occupation to
relax tired muscles
help with suitable nail shape)
aid with the removal of waste products from the tissues
aid client relaxation.

Massage mediums Select nail colour

There are number of different types of mediums that can be used to perform the

Unit N2/N3
massage: the most common is massage oil. Some clients prefer cream; if the client
has an allergy, a hypoallergenic cream can be used. File/cut if required

Types of massage movements

Effleurage
Cuticle work
These are gentle stroking movements that can often be used to link movements or to
go from one part of the body to another.
Effleurage movements are used for:
Apply specialist products according to
introducing massage medium to area manufacturers’ instructions if required

Provide manicure and pedicure services

introducing hands to area
helping relaxation with long flowing moves
soothing nerve endings. Massage

Petrissage
Petrissage (kneading or friction) movements are used for: Buff
increasing the blood flow feeding the muscular tissue and cells
desquamating cells from the surface of the skin
increased removal of waste Paint

stimulating tissues, using deeper, more localised movements.

Tapotement Home care/aftercare advice

Tapotement movements, such as hacking and cupping where hands work briskly to
stimulate the area, are used for breaking down areas of tension and nodules and
adipose tissue. Record details on record card to
This type of movement needs adaptation depending on the area being treated and include shape and varnish colour
tissue density, for example not over a bony area as it can be uncomfortable. Manicure

Step-by-step arm massage

1 With effleurage movement, apply oil or cream.
2 With your left hand, effleurage one side of arm 3 times from out to in.
3 With your right hand, effleurage the other side of arm 3 times in to out.
4 Carry out thumb rotaries up the arm in 4 lines (2 at front and 2 at back).
5 Petrissage side of arm with your left hand out and in, and repeat on the other
side from in to out 3 times.

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6 Thumb-flicks in between the metacarpals 2 times between digits.

7 Rotaries in between metacarpals 2 times between every digit.
8 Thumb-flicks again, in between the metacarpals 2 times between digits.
9 Rotaries to phalange joints, traction 2 times, full mobilisation – 3 in one
direction (in towards your client), then repeat in the opposite direction away from
your client.
10 Effleurage whole hand once.
11 Rotaries on carpals, traction of hand 2 times.
12 Full mobilisation of carpals, 3 times in one direction (in towards client).
13 Knead the palm with your thumbs.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

14 Effleurage arms alternately 6 times and finish with pressure on the fingers.

Carry out pedicure services

In this outcome you will learn about:
• c leaning and drying the client’s feet • leaving the feet and lower legs free of any excess massage
• filing the nails correctly, ensuring that the nail free edge is left medium
smoothed and shaped to the required length • ensuring the nail plate is dehydrated and the underside is clean
• applying suitable cuticle products for the client and free of debris
• using cuticle tools and products safely and effectively, ensuring • applying a suitable base coat relevant to the client’s needs, if
that the cuticle and nail plate are undamaged required
• removing any excessive hard skin using a foot rasp, without • applying sufficient polish coats and top coat for the desired finish,
discomfort to the client, if required if required
• using foot and nail treatments correctly to improve the • ensuring that the nail finish is left with a smooth even texture and
appearance of the client’s skin and nails with the cuticle and nail wall free of product and debris
• using the correct quantity and type of massage medium to meet • ensuring that the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction and
the service plan meets the agreed service plan.
• using massage techniques smoothly and evenly, at a pressure to
the meet the client’s needs

Suggested pedicure routine

Before starting the treatment, carry out the following steps.
Ensure equipment is sterile and all materials and products are easily accessible.
Check for contra-indications, specifically: athlete’s foot, bunions, corns, verrucas,
ingrowing toenails and nail disease, callouses and varicose veins.
The client should be seated comfortably with modesty towel over lap, and legs
to knee exposed, to allow full pedicure with massage treatment.
Manicurist should have all materials to hand, be in a comfortable position with
towel and single paper tissue roll on lap. Paper tissue to be replaced constantly
through treatment to prevent cross-infection.
The client’s feet should be washed and dried prior to commencement of treatment.

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 Practical skills

Step-by-step pedicure
1 During the 2 Using an emery
consultation discuss board, file the
the needs of the toenails straight
client and adapt the across – avoid any
service to suit. You shaping, as it could
should cover their cause ingrowing
preferred nail shape, nails.
length and the type
of polish required.
After the consultation
remove the nail
enamel and soak the
feet to soften and

Unit N2/N3
refresh them: this
will sanitise the feet
and you will be able
to check for contra-
indications.

3 If the toenails are 4 Apply cuticle

very long, use the cream.
clippers to get rid of
the free edge, before

Provide manicure and pedicure services

filing.

5 Soak the first foot 6 Apply cuticle

in clean warm water, remover with a cotton
and repeat with the bud. It is caustic so
second foot. be careful; only apply
sparingly and not on
the surrounding skin.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

7 Using a hoof 8 Depending on the

stick, flat to the amount of work to be
nail plate, gently done on the cuticle,
push the cuticle you may need to use
back, using circular the cuticle knife to
motions. ease the excess away
from the nail plate.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

9 Rough skin 10 Apply massage

remover may be medium and begin
applied to the areas with effleurage to
that need attention, the whole foot, and
most commonly the follow with thumb
ball of the foot, the frictions to the upper
heel and side of the foot.
big toe. You can use
a foot rasp here if the
skin is very hard.

11 Follow the 12 Finish with

massage routine, effleurage over the
as for manicure (see whole foot and lower
pages 482–84) – toe leg. Remember, it is
manipulations are important to remove
really relaxing. excess moisture,
debris and product
from the nail in order
to prepare for the nail
finish.

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 Practical skills

13 Paint toe nails to 14 The end result.

the client’s choice of
colour, using a base
and topcoat for extra
durability. Allow the
varnish plenty of time
to dry, before the
client puts her shoes
on.

Unit N2/N3
Think about it Think about it
Diabetes may not be considered a contra-indication to manicure and pedicure, but in Do not file nails to shape into the
some cases diabetes can cause limited sensation in the feet due to poor circulation. If nail grove – keep free edge straight
this is the case, GP approval is required. In the case of varicose veins, avoid massage – a (square) or slightly rounded, to avoid

Provide manicure and pedicure services

doctor’s approval may be necessary. problems with ingrowing nails

Specialist treatments
In some cases, the condition of a client’s hands or feet might mean that a standard
manicure or pedicure is not enough, and so a specialist treatment would be
recommended. These treatments include abrasive products (exfoliators) for hard
skin and thermal mitts/boots for intensive moisturising. It is vital when using these
products that you follow manufacturers’ instructions. You may need to attend
specialist training courses to use some of the products.

Product What it does Benefits

Abrasives and exfoliants These products contain abrasive particles, which Softens and removes hard skin while conditioning.
help remove (desquamate) excess skin. This type of For best results, feet should be soaked prior to
product is especially useful for pedicure treatments. application.
A massage product should be applied to the area
after use, to help replace lost moisture, making skin
feel soft and smooth.

Thermal hand/foot masks These products are usually wax- or oil-based, and Intensive rehydration and softening of skin and nail
are applied to a well-moisturised area in a heated plate.
liquid form. The treated area is usually wrapped Ideal for dry skin conditions.
in either foil or cling film to maintain the heat.
Increases circulation, promoting healthier growth.
The mask is usually left on for 15 minutes, but
you should always check the manufacturer's Decreases joint stiffness.
instructions. An example of a thermal mask is Relaxes aching muscles.
paraffin wax. Increases absorption of moisturising products.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Step-by-step paraffin wax treatment for hands/feet

This can be used for both manicure and pedicure treatments. It is applied after the
cuticle work and before the massage.
1 Prepare your 2 Test on self, prior
working area and to application on
decant the melted client, over a sheet
paraffin wax into a of foil with a towel
bowl lined with tin underneath it.
foil.
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

3 If the 4 Wrap the hand

temperature is or foot in tin foil, to
suitable, paint on a retain the heat.
good even coating of
wax, working quickly
before it sets, turning
the hand or foot to
paint both sides.

5 Wrap both hands 6 The wax cools

or feet in the towels and hardens, which
and allow the heat to makes removal
soothe and soften. easy – just peel it
off. Any paraffin wax
left in the bowl can
be given to the client
to use as a home
treatment.

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 Practical skills

Risk assessment for paraffin wax equipment •  urning of equipment (through low wax level in the tank).
B
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce • Burns to skin (not testing wax temperature first on self).
risks to health and safety pages, 71–86, for a complete • Ejection of materials (spitting hot wax).
discussion of risk assessment. • Electricity (e.g. poor wiring).
Hazards: look for hazards that you would reasonably expect • Manual handling (spillage possible if moving when in
to result in significant harm under the conditions in your liquid form).
workplace. Use the following examples as a guide. • Falling machinery (if not securely positioned on a trolley).
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead).

Warm oil treatment for hands

This treatment can also be offered in a salon. It is useful when treating dry

Unit N2/N3
hands/cuticles and flaky nails.
The oil used should always be vegetable-based such as sweet almond oil,
olive oil or coconut oil.

Step-by-step warm oil treatment

1 Warm oil, either by immersing a suitable container in hot water or by
using an infrared lamp.
2 Proceed with treatment – do not apply cuticle massage oil at this stage.
Soak fingers in warmed oil for 5 minutes.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

3 Massage in oil and wipe off any excess with a tissue.
4 Continue with routine. Soak the cuticles in warm oil to help
soften, and massage
Note: It is not necessary to carry out a massage with this treatment.

Risk assessment for warm oil equipment • E jection of bulb (hot bulb falling on to skin, not screwed
Refer to Unit G20, Make sure your own actions reduce risks to in properly, lamp should not be directed over the skin).
health and safety, pages 71–86, for a complete discussion • Electricity (e.g. poor wiring, trailing leads).
of risk assessment. • Manual handling (outer casing is hot and will burn if
Hazards: look for hazards that you would reasonably expect towel is not used for protection).
to result in significant harm under the conditions in your • Falling machinery (if supporting arm is not screwed in
workplace. Use the following examples as a guide. properly).
• Fire (e.g. from electrical flex or lead). • Contamination (from brushes).
• Burning of equipment (through light bulb burning out). • Cross-infection (ignoring possible contra-indications).

Thermal mitts and boots

These are electrically heated items of equipment that are used on the
same principle as thermal masks, with the added advantage of:
maintaining heat more effectively
being easy and less messy to use
being more cost-effective over a period of time, as no special product is
required.

Thermal boots

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Step-by-step thermal treatments

1 Apply a moisturising product to the area.
2 Apply cling film to improve the rehydration process.
3 Place hands/feet in mitts/boots for 10–15 minutes.
4 After that time, continue with cuticle work and the rest of the treatment.

Provide aftercare advice

In this outcome you will learn about:
• g iving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

• giving the clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs.

Giving advice and recommendations to suit the

client’s needs
To ensure that your client gains maximum benefit from the treatment, you need to
give advice that is both practical and achievable.
Wherever possible, it is advisable to show the client how to use the products that
would be suitable for them to purchase. Many of the items and products listed below
are sold through salons. It is worth remembering that many therapists/manicurists
work on commission, so good product knowledge could earn you extra money.

Contra-actions that could occur after nail services

To protect the client’s hands and nails from damage, it should be suggested that
suitable gloves or a special barrier cream are used when completing tasks involving
any dirty work, or other work involving the use of water or chemicals. Examples of
these types of work include:
gardening
washing up
hairdressing
car maintenance.
The client should also be advised:
not to bite nails or surrounding skin and to keep an emery board available to deal
with ragged free edges to the nails, so that the temptation to bite is removed
Think about it to use a moisturising hand cream or lotion regularly
Contra-indications to paraffin wax to avoid using the nails as tools (e.g. undoing screws, removing tight lids from
treatment: containers and opening tightly sealed letters and parcels)
• skin infections to stop using a product immediately in the event of contra-actions occurring,
• varicose veins such as a reaction to products in the form of extreme redness, rashes, irritation
• nail diseases or swelling – advise the client to cool the area with cold water and visit the GP if
• hypersensitivity.
treatment is required.

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 Practical skills

Retail products
Think about it
Retail products that may be stocked by your salon for care of the feet and
All portable electrical equipment
hands to sell to clients are important income boosters, and many therapists
must be tested, so ensure thermal
earn commission from these sales. It is therefore important to have excellent
mitts and boots are tested, and
knowledge of the products your salon retails, which could include the following.
check the flex and plug before
every use. (For information on
Nail varnish remover portable appliance testing, refer to
This is used to remove old varnish. Avoid using too frequently, as it can have a Professional basics, page 57, and
drying effect on the nails and surrounding skin. Always wash hands after use. G20 Make sure your own actions
reduce risks to health and safety,
Base coat, nail varnish, topcoat page 89.)
It is advisable to sell a selection of varnishes, and ensure your client realises the

Unit N2/N3
importance of wearing a base coat to prevent staining the nail plate.

Nail strengthener For your portfolio

Use these products according to manufacturers’ instructions. Strengthener is often Research the cost of manicure and
built into base coat varnishes, to improve the condition of the nails. pedicure treatments at the salons in
your locality. Do the salons only offer
Cuticle cream basic treatments or do any offer a
This product can be massaged around the cuticles daily to keep them soft and variety of specialist treatments?
smooth. The massaging action will help stimulate the growth of the nail.

Provide manicure and pedicure services

Emery boards For your portfolio
Recommend the fine side for shaping finger nails and the coarse side for hard
A client comes into the salon with
nails and reducing the length of the nails. Show the client how to file correctly.
dry nails and overgrown cuticles.
Avoid sawing.
What intensive treatment could you
carry out for these conditions and
Buffers
what additional aftercare advice
These can be used to smooth out ridges and to give the nails a natural sheen.
could you give?
Show the client how to use them correctly, going from the base of the nail to the
free edge. Buffing will stimulate growth, so this can be an incentive for nail biters.

Foot care
Clients should be advised of the importance of ensuring that all footwear is well
fitting, so that the feet are not restricted, which may result in damage, discomfort
and foot problems.

Rough skin remover

This is a slightly abrasive product that is effective against hard skin. Massage on
to affected areas firmly in circular movements for softer feet.

Foot powder
This is a deodorised powder that can be applied regularly to keep feet fresh
and dry. This product is worth recommending to clients who suffer with odour
problems, or have a tendency to athlete’s foot (this condition thrives in damp
conditions).
The right products will help to ensure
your client gains maximum benefit
from their treatment

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Frequently asked questions

Q What will happen if I don’t check for contra-indications?

A Infections of the hands and feet can be spread very easily – especially warts and verrucas.

Q Can I use a dark-coloured varnish on short or bitten nails?

A Lighter colours will make the nails appear longer; a dark colour will draw attention to bitten and badly kept nails.

Q What happens if I don’t keep the cuticle knife flat and wet?
Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

A Keeping the knife flat helps prevent cutting the skin, and wetting the knife prevents scratching the nail plate.

Q Why can’t I use foam toe separators between the toes when painting the toe nails?

A Tissues are used because they are disposable. Foam separators may harbour germs and cause infections to be
passed from client to client. If you do use these in your salon they should be costed into the treatment price and
given to the client to take home.

Q Do I have to buff with every treatment?

A Buffing stimulates nail growth and gives the nail a nice natural sheen, a must for natural looking nails. In a
treatment that has colour applied to the nail plate it will help to even out the minor ridges as well as stimulating
growth. Ridges are often more apparent on toe nails and buffing should be carried out.

Q Do I really have to cut toe nails straight across?

A Yes, this will prevent ingrowing toe nails, a condition which can cause pain and infection if left untreated and which,
in severe cases, may require an operation.

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 Practical skills

Check your knowledge

1 How would you recognise a verucca?

2 Is athlete’s foot a virus, fungus, or bacteria?

3 How should you cut toenails?

4 What is the purpose of a hoof stick?

5 If the nails are stained what could be the cause(s)?

6 What salon treatment could you recommend for a client with very dry skin or cuticles?

Unit N2/N3
7 What is leuconychia?

8 Why do you bevel the nail when filing?

9 What are finger and toenails made from?

10 What nail shape suits most colours of varnish?

11 List five things that you should include in a consultation.

12 How should you store acetone and what legislation should you follow when storing it?

Provide manicure and pedicure services

13 If the nails have corrugations, what treatments could you offer to minimise this?

14 What could incorrect filing do to the nails?

15 What is the purpose of cuticle cream?

a) To soften the skin on the hands and the feet
b) To massage hands and feet
c) To soften cuticles before soaking

16 What condition would a nail have if it flaked and broke easily?

a) Ridges
b) Overgrown cuticles
c) Dry brittle nails

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Getting ready for assessment

You cannot do any simulation within this unit, but the evidence can be gained quite easily. Remember to keep
all paper evidence of any actions, feedback or witness statements that you have been given to support this work.

Your assessor will observe your performance on at least three occasions for both manicure and pedicure treatments (a
minimum of six treatments for both the units).

• Treat a range of clients for both manicure and pedicure – although the range does not stipulate treatment on men, male
treatments are becoming increasingly popular in both salon and spa.

• Use all consultation techniques.

Unit N2/N3 Provide manicure and pedicure services

• Use all the equipment and materials: files, scissors, nippers, clippers, cuticle tools and foot rasp.

• Apply all types of hand and foot treatments: paraffin wax, hand and foot masks, thermal mitts and boots and
exfoliators.
• Apply all massage mediums.

• Apply all types of nail finish, including dark colour, French, high shine buff (manicure only).

• Maintain suitable environmental conditions (ventilation, heat, etc.).

• Prepare the client to suit the treatment.

• Deal with contra-indications that may prevent or restrict the treatment.

• Deal with contra-actions.

• Provide treatment advice: includes suitable aftercare products, home care routines, e.g. avoidance of activities that may
damage the nails and surrounding skin, as well as recommended intervals between treatments.

Evidence of these can be provided by the observation of your assessor, but also by written work, projects, witness
statements, photographic and video evidence and APL statements.

You must prove to your assessor that you have the necessary knowledge, understanding and skills to perform competently
on all ranges within the criteria for this unit.

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 Unit B10

Enhance appearance
using skin camouflage

What you will learn Unit GH8

B10.1 Maintain safe and effective methods of working
when providing skin camouflage
B10.2 Consult, plan and prepare for skin camouflage
B10.3 Carry out skin camouflage
B10.4 Provide aftercare advice

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Introduction
This unit is about providing suitable camouflage for the face and body, using make-up
to cover tattoos, erythema and hyper/hypopigmentation disorders.
The application of remedial cosmetics can be used in a variety of ways, both in the
salon and in more specialist environments such as hospital clinics. The skilled use
of remedial camouflage make-up can be used to disguise a tattoo, scar tissue or
pigmentation marks.
It is important to consider that clients requiring remedial work may be suffering from
trauma and this can have psychological effects. The use therefore of skilled remedial
cosmetic camouflage make-up can restore the client’s self-esteem and confidence.
Benefits for the client:
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

increases self-esteem and confidence

a one-off treatment for a special occasion or for more permanent coverage if
desired
may be combined with an ordinary make-up or skincare lesson (refer to Unit B8/
B9 Provide make-up services and instruct clients in the use and application of
skincare products and make-up)
camouflage is waterproof, and can be worn when swimming.
Benefits for the therapist:
an excellent skill for a therapist or salon to offer as this specialist area can attract
clientele, thereby increasing revenue
enhancement courses available for more advanced practitioner work.

Acne rosacea – often seen as a red flush

commonly over the nose and cheeks, Vitiligo, or hypopigmentation. Light Chloasma, or hyperpigmentation. This
sometimes accompanied by papules and patches appear on the skin is caused by the overproduction of
pustules melanocytes which produce melanin

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 Practical skills

Maintain safe and effective methods

of working
In this outcome you will learn about:
• s etting up and monitoring the treatment area to meet • m aintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices
organisation procedures and manufacturers’ instructions throughout the skin camouflage application
• making sure that environmental conditions are suitable for • adopting a positive, polite and reassuring manner towards the
the client and the skin camouflage client throughout the treatment
• ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and • respecting the client’s modesty, privacy and any sensitivities to
appearance meets accepted industry and organisational their personal appearance
requirements • checking the client’s well-being at regular intervals according to
• effectively disinfecting your hands prior to treatment organisational policy

Unit B10
• ensuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue • disposing of waste materials safely and correctly
and the risk of injury while working • ensuring the skin camouflage is cost-effective and is carried out
• ensuring all tools are cleaned using the correct methods within a commercially viable time
• positioning skin camouflage products and application tools • ensuring client record cards are up to date, accurate, complete,
for ease and safety of use legible and signed by the client and practitioner
• ensuring the client is in a comfortable and relaxed position • leaving the treatment area in a condition suitable for further
suitable for the skin camouflage treatments.

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

Your personal hygiene, protection and
appearance
As with any treatment it is important to maintain a professional appearance and to
adopt hygienic and safe working practices to ensure no cross-infection occurs.
The main sources of infection during a camouflage session are caused by
contaminated products, dirty tools and equipment. Consult your professional body for
guidelines to prevent cross-infection.
Refer to Units B4, B8/9, G20 and the general Units Professional basics and You and
the skin to ensure that you adhere to the correct health and safety protocols and can
identify contra-indications and conditions that may affect the treatment, or that could
potentially contaminate products or equipment.

Performance criteria

Setting up and monitoring the treatment area to meet organisation procedures and manufacturers’
instructions

Making sure that environmental conditions are suitable for the client and the skin camouflage

Ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and appearance meets accepted industry and organisational
requirements

Effectively disinfecting your hands prior to treatment

Ensuring your own posture and position minimises fatigue and the risk of injury while working

Ensuring all tools are cleaned using the correct methods

Positioning skin camouflage products and application tools for ease and safety of use

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Performance criteria

Ensuring the client is in a comfortable and relaxed position suitable for the skin camouflage

Maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices throughout the skin camouflage application

Adopting a positive, polite and reassuring manner towards the client throughout the treatment

Respecting the client’s modesty, privacy and any sensitivities to their personal appearance

Checking the client’s well-being at regular intervals according to organisational policy

Disposing of waste materials safely and correctly

Ensuring the skin camouflage is cost-effective and is carried out within a commercially viable time

Ensuring client record cards are up to date, accurate, complete, legible and signed by the client and
practitioner
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

Leaving the treatment area in a condition suitable for further treatments

Organisational procedures and legal requirements

When providing skin camouflage it is essential to follow the legislation that is
laid down with regard to the safe use, disposal and storage of products (COSHH)
and follow manufacturers’ instructions when using products. Products should be
stored at the correct temperature and waste should also be disposed of according to
manufacturer and salon guidelines.
Risks will be reduced to both the client and therapist, and safe running of the
salon will be ensured, if skin care products are correctly selected and stored,
contra-indications are checked at each visit and details accurately recorded. This will
allow clients to agree to the treatment plan and an effective treatment to be carried out
If a client is sensitive it is important to carry out a sensitivity test before using a
product and record the outcome on the client’s record card. (Refer to Professional
basics, page 29, for further information regarding legal requirements.)

Ensuring the client is comfortable and relaxed

Ensure that the client will be comfortable and that as a therapist you can carry out
the treatment without damage to your posture. When working to blend camouflage
make-up, it is important the lighting is correct. Make sure that the lighting is suitable
natural daylight combined with warm white fluorescent light. This is the best light for
matching make-up colours.
Your manner should be positive, polite and reassuring throughout the make-up service
and you must respect any sensitivities the client may have about their personal
appearance. Remember to check on the client’s wellbeing at regular intervals during
the service, according to your salon’s policy.

Maintaining industry hygiene practices

Remember to carry out standard sanitisation and sterilisation procedures and to
decant products to prevent contamination and cross-infection occurring (refer to
Professional basics, page 39).

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 Practical skills

Therapist’s hands Wash hands before and after treatment using an appropriate cleanser.

Area to be treated Check for contra-indications before treating and then cleanse area, blotting dry
before applying camouflage product.

Trolley Sanitise with suitable cleanser.

Brushes Wash in warm soapy water and allow to dry naturally. Wipe with sanitiser while
using, especially if you are using different coloured products.

Sponges Wash in warm, soapy water and dry between clients.

Velour puffs As for sponges.

Pallet Wash with warm, soapy water and wipe with sanitiser prior to use.

Pump dispensers Use where possible to dispense products to prevent contamination.

Disposable spatulas Use spatulas for dispensing products on to pallet, and dispose after use.

Unit B10
Hygiene procedures

Consult, plan and prepare for skin

camouflage
In this outcome you will learn about:

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

• u sing consultation techniques in a polite and friendly manner to determine the client’s treatment
needs
• ensuring that informed and signed parent or guardian consent is obtained for minors prior to any
treatment
• ensuring that a parent or guardian is present throughout the treatment for minors under the
age of 16
• obtaining signed, written informed consent from the client prior to carrying out the service
• clearly explaining to the client what the skin camouflage entails in a way they can understand
• asking your client appropriate questions to identify their skin camouflage needs
• encouraging clients to ask questions to clarify any points
• asking your client appropriate questions to identify if they have any contra-indications to the skin
camouflage
• accurately recording your client’s responses to questioning
• taking the necessary action in response to any identified contra-indications
• clearly identifying and agreeing the client’s skin camouflage needs and the areas to be camouflaged.

The consultation and planning the treatment

With this particular treatment, the client may be very self-conscious about the
problem area, and the consultation should be carried out with sensitivity and tact.
This should take place away from others’ view, and not in a public area. Remember,
however small and insignificant you consider the problem, it is important to the
client. In this way you will give the client confidence and boost her self-esteem.
The treatment plan and consultation should allow the therapist to clearly establish
and identify the needs of the client, while encouraging the client to ask questions.
This will allow the client and therapist to plan an achievable and realistic treatment
plan.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Think about it Identifying contra-indications

All information that you obtain from As with all treatments it is important to establish if the client is suitable for the
a client is confidential. treatment, so remember to check for contra-indications. Any open and infected areas
will prevent the treatment as well as the contra-indications given in Unit B4, page
Clients who are under 16 years
274, and Unit B8/B9, page 364.
of age will need parent/guardian
consent before the treatment can
commence, and a parent/guardian Preparing for skin camouflage
will need to be present during the
The trolley set up for the treatment should be the same as for a routine make-up
service. All other clients must sign a
application with brushes, sponges and powder applicators. (Refer to Unit B8/B9 for
consent form prior to carrying out
trolley set-up and sterilisation, page 367.)
the service.
If you are combining camouflage application with traditional make-up, ensure that
you have all products available.
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

For your portfolio

Devise a consultation card that can
be used for camouflage make-up. Carry out skin camouflage
You will need to include a section for
all the colours that you use and the In this outcome you will learn about:
techniques that have been used to
• e nsuring empathy and sensitivity to the nature of the client’s condition is shown
achieve the end result.
throughout
• applying compatible skincare products when required before the skin camouflage
For your portfolio application
• using application tools, techniques and camouflage products which are best suited
List three bacterial, three viral and
to the skin camouflage needs
three fungal conditions that will
• ensuring camouflage products are applied in accordance with manufacturers’
prevent camouflage make-up being
instructions to achieve required density, colour and effect
applied.
• establishing an acceptable colour match on the areas to be camouflaged to restore
the skin colouration to the surrounding skin tone
• establishing and applying an appropriate complementary colour prior to the
application of the acceptable skin colour match if required
• applying compatible cosmetic and skincare products when required after the skin
camouflage application
• ensuring that the finished result is to the client’s satisfaction and meets the agreed
treatment plan.

Camouflage products
Camouflage make-up products have been developed to cover skin imperfections and
disfigurements. They differ from ordinary concealers as they are designed to be worn
for a long time without harming the skin.

Key terms Corrective products therefore need to have the following features:
Opaque – cannot be seen through. They are opaque (they do not transmit light).
They have a light base.
They have a matt finish.
They are non-irritant.
They are designed to even out skin tones.

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 Practical skills

They can be easily mixed to produce the correct tone.

They combine dense pigments.
They allow the skin to breathe and perspire.
They are waterproof.
Camouflage make-up can be purchased from some salons, chemists and
wholesalers. The internet is also an excellent place for viewing the vast array of
products on the market.

Selecting products suited to the client’s

camouflage needs
When selecting suitable camouflage products you should consider the following
points:

Unit B10
A cool environment will ensure the effectiveness of the make-up over a longer
period.
In a hot environment, due to perspiration, the oily consistency of the product will
mean the make-up will loosen more quickly.
Drier skins will find cover creams more effective.
The sebum production of oily skins can cause thinning and lifting of products,

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

therefore clients with oily skin should be told they may need more frequent
applications.
Facial camouflage should be removed and re-applied daily as natural
perspirations and dirt could clog pores, causing spots.
Clients should ensure that cleansing routines include the use of a cleansing
cream which breaks down the camouflage product more effectively than regular
cleansing products. Key terms
If camouflage is applied to areas of the body other than the face, it can be left in Blending – ensuring that the
place and clients may bathe/shower as long as soap is not used on the area as product matches the natural skin
this can dislodge the cream. Swimming is permitted. tone using a variety of methods.

Clients should always blot rather than rub the area dry to preserve the
camouflage after a bath/shower. For your portfolio
The client’s skin tone. Research companies that supply
Any known allergies. camouflage products, and compare
the colours and the coverage that
A number of companies produce camouflage products. It is important to think about
these products give. Do all of the
the versatility of the product before purchasing a range to use, taking into account the products offer the same level of
area to be covered, the texture, colour range versatility and blending. coverage?
Some products may contain iron oxide, a colouring used in make-up, or titanium
dioxide, a white matt powder. When manufacturers mix iron oxide or titanium oxide
Think about it
with zinc oxide the product will offer a degree of sun protection. However, it should
not be used in place of SPF (sun protection factor) products. In certain conditions, Although products are designed to
such as under the flash of a camera, these products can alter the appearance of the be non-irritant, clients with sensitive
skin should be given a patch test
skin. Professional photographers should be able to compensate for this when they
prior to application.
take a light reading prior to the start of the shoot.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Some makes of product also contain lanolin, which can cause allergic reactions in a
few clients, so always check for allergies when you are carrying out your consultation
and refer to the manufacturer’s list of ingredients and COSHH data if you are unsure.
A sensitivity test should be undertaken if the client is known to suffer from allergies.

Features of camouflage products

Product/brand Features

Dermablend •  eavy texture

H
• Wide range of colours from light to dark
• Ideal for black skins
• Good for covering tattoos

Veil • L ight texture

• Ointment based
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

• Excellent coverage
• Wide range of shades available
• Ideal for caucasian skin tones

Covermark •  ives strong coverage

G
• Ointment based
• Includes grey shades
• Ideal product for creating beard line effect on male clients

Dermacolour • F ine texture

• Good coverage
• Ideal general purpose camouflage make-up
• Wide range of colours
• Long lasting
• Ointment based
• Yellow and dark tones good for blending

Keromask • T hick texture

• Excellent coverage
• Variety of colours
• Blends easily
• Good for full facial concealment, e.g. acne scarring

Establishing an acceptable colour match

When using skin camouflage products you need to make sure the colour match to the
client’s skin is correct. The camouflaged skin should restore the skin colour to match
the surrounding skin tone.
Camouflage make-up is usually selected by numbers and letters: the natural skin’s
colouring is given a letter and then the coverage cream within the selected range is
chosen to match the skin colour.
Suitable skincare should be carried out prior to the application of the camouflage
product such as using the appropriate cleanser and toner, and, if necessary, you
should choose and apply an appropriate complementary colour before applying the
skin colour match. You may need to neutralise a colour: for example, green concealer
neutralises red.

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 Practical skills

Remember the colour star and the colours that help to neutralise each other: for Yellow
example, green will diminish red. (Refer to concealing cosmetics in Unit B8/B9,
pages 379–80.)
Green Orange

General rules for applying camouflage products

Following the few simple guidelines below will help to make the treatment result Neutral

successful.
Always follow manufacturers’ instructions. Blue Red
Use less product than if applying ordinary make-up.
Apply with clean brushes, sponges or finger to prevent cross-infection and
Mauve
build-up of products.
Use green concealer with care – too much and the client will look ill!

Unit B10
Always dispense products on to a palette for easy blending.
Avoid using heavy concealer under the eyes or on crepey skin as this can
emphasise lines and wrinkles – a little moisturiser added to the concealer for
crepey skin gives a more natural look.
Powder each layer to ‘set’ before applying another layer. Key terms
Avoid over-blending – this may cause the make-up to lift streak or leave the skin Lift streak – where the
overstimulated. product is overworked and

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

may lift and separate from the skin.
Refer to the risk assessment for make-up application found in Unit B8 Provide
make-up services when undertaking any camouflage make-up treatments (see pages Overstimulated – where the
skin is rubbed too much and may
364–65), ensuring that you follow salon procedures at all times.
become red; to cause an erythema by
overworking the area.
Think about it
If you use a variety of products, it is essential to remember that the shade, consistency
and coverage may be different. Always refer to manufacturers’ instructions.

Using tools and techniques to apply products

Brush
This method of application is used for marks that are small or thin. It is important
to remember that the product should cover only the actual area, and a brush can be
used to apply the product accurately.
After applying using the middle finger, tap to blur the edge of the cream and blend Key terms
into the surrounding skin. If the area is tender, instead of tapping gently, press the Tapping – tapping with fingers to
area to blend the cream. When the cream is blended, apply setting powder and then aid blending of the product.
blot with damp cotton wool.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Sponge
This method is suitable for a light covering or toning down the skin. The use of
natural sponges is better than synthetic sponges and the smaller the sponge, the
better. Ensure that the sponge is damp as this will ensure the application is even.
To prevent contaminating the product decant onto a palette or the back of your hand
and press the sponge into the product. Apply to area. If too much product has been
applied, turn the sponge over and gently blot off excess.
Set and blot with damp cotton wool.

Velour puffs
These are used to apply the setting powder which seals the make-up.
If the therapist has a large area to cover, the puff can be used to rest on to prevent
the previously applied make-up being disturbed.
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

Fingers
There are three ways to apply products with fingers and all methods produce good
results.
1. Tapping – tap product in area to help with blending. This can only be done if there
is no bruising or soreness.
2. Rubbing – a quick method of applying coverage to a large area.
Key terms 3. Pressing – pressing the product on to the area. This is useful on tender areas.
Setting – applying setting powder
Whichever method is used, a variety of blending and setting methods are required to
between the stages.
make the effect last.

Setting
There are a few ways that the setting of make-up between layers of camouflage
make-up can be carried out. The method given below takes account of salon time
constraints and is the most cost-effective.
Apply concealer, set with powder, brush off excess and blot with damp cotton wool.
Gradually build up the coverage until the desired effect has been achieved.

Applying camouflage products

Every client is different: the area to be covered, the effect the client wishes to achieve,
and, with tattoo coverage, the density of the tattoo pigment will vary. Sensitivity and
empathy should be adopted with each individual client.

My story
Client satisfaction
Hi, my name is Sally. I have a tattoo on my left shoulder. When I was going to get
married, I did not want it showing on my wedding day. Laser removal was not an
option due to the cost, so a friend of mine recommended I go to a local salon where
they do remedial make-up. The therapist, Helen, carried out a trial before the big day
to ensure that the products and colours correctly matched my own skin tones. The
process was painless but did take a little while as each layer needed to be built up
gradually. The result was amazing and the photographs are proof!

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 Practical skills

Step-by-step tattoo camouflage

1 Discuss 2 Use a 3 Cover
area to be white make-up with skin
covered with to cover the tone colour
client and darker tattoo using brush,
select suitable outline. Set sponge, or
shade to with powder fingers
match skin between
tone layers

Unit B10
4 You may 5 Use a puff 6 The
need to tap to help set the covered tattoo
the product make-up with
onto the skin powder
to help blend
the make-up

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

Depending on the depth of colour pigments in the tattoo, the dyes may show through
the basic skin tone shade. The following colour shades are good for colouring these
pigments:
Veil rose over blue shades
Veil olive over red shades.
Once the colour has been neutralised, proceed with selecting a suitable camouflage
colour and follow procedure. Remember to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Think about it
Due to the pigmentation in the inks used for tattoos, they can be very difficult
to cover with camouflage products and the tattoo may start to appear through the
make-up. It is therefore best to apply compatible make-up as late as possible
to avoid this occurring.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Salon life
My story
My name is Jessica. I have a sister who has vitiligo and was oen teased
at school because of her different-coloured skin. My parents learnt how
to apply camouflage make-up from the Red Cross to help her cover the
patches. When I le school I trained as a beauty therapist and have since
specialised in camouflage make-up application as I know how my sister was
affected by having pigmentation on her skin. Using camouflage techniques
to help cover areas that a client is unhappy with is very rewarding as it gives
them new-found confidence and self esteem. Remember that every client is
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

different: the area to be covered, the effect the client wishes to achieve, and,
with tattoo coverage, the density of the tattoo pigment will vary. Sensitivity
and empathy should be adopted with each individual client.

Benefits to client and therapist

Benefits of camouflage make-up for the client:
ASK THE EXPERTS
Q Is there anyone that isn’t suitable for skin
• Increases confidence and self-esteem camouflage?
• Can be worn in the bath or shower A Skin camouflage is suitable for men,
• Can be applied at home if correct instruction given women and children. However, clients who
• Colours are available to match the natural skin tone are under the age of 16 will need consent
from their parent or guardian before
• Can be used to cover tattoos for special occasions if the client
treatment can commence and the parent/
requires; for example, weddings guardian will need to be present during the
service. All other clients must sign a consent
Benefits of camouflage make-up for the therapist:
form prior to the service being carried out.
• Valuable service for vulnerable clientele Generally, it is not advisable to use skin
• Brings increased revenue to the salon camouflage on broken, dry or inflamed
skin; for example, on skin with eczema.
• Not all salons offer these specialist skills, so it will make your
salon more unique
• Can be carried out in the client’s own home – suitable for
mobile therapists
• Advanced training courses are available

Top tips
• Research the products that you wish to use before opting for a range to use in your work. Look at the colours and the
coverage that the products offer. Many companies offer additional training to support their products.
• Keep different sets of brushes, sponges and puffs for applying your camouflage products. Do not use the same
equipment as you do for general make-up application.

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 Practical skills

Hypo/hyperpigmentation camouflage
Think about it
Hypopigmentation and hyperpigmention are both degrees of pigmentation that can
Ensure that the colour match and
be seen anywhere on the body.
blending are as invisible as you can to
Hypopigmentation or vitiligo is seen as pure white patches on the skin, where lack of meet the requirements of the client.
the protective pigment melanin has left the skin sensitive to sunlight.
Hyperpigmentation or chloasma (sometimes referred to as melasma) is darker Key terms
pigmentation. This is often seen around the eyes, mouth or cheeks, and may be as a
result of pregnancy or seen in those taking the contraceptive pill. Hypopigmentation – a condition
of the skin, characterised by irregular
Erythema camouflage patches of skin that are darker in
Erythema is caused by vasodilation of the small capillaries and can be seen as colour.
redness on the surface of the skin. Clients may wish to hide this redness. Hyperpigmentation – a loss of
skin colour caused by a lack of
Some clients may be suffering from the condition acne rosacea (see page 496),

Unit B10
melanocytes.
which often looks like a red butterfly running predominantly down the nose and
across the cheeks. This will look like erythema. Vitiligo – the appearance of single
or multiple white areas of skin.
Refer to You and the skin, pages 199–205, for skin conditions and pigmentation
Chloasma – blotchy-brown
disorders.
pigmentation of the skin.
Erythema – vasodilation of the
Provide aftercare advice blood capillaries, causing surface

Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

reddening of the skin.

In this outcome you will learn about:

• giving advice and recommendations accurately and constructively
• giving your clients suitable advice specific to their individual needs.

Giving clients advice and making

recommendations
General rules for aftercare
All aftercare should be directed to meet the individual needs of the client and
aftercare should be appropriate to the area and the product used. The salon may
consider selling colour concealers and some camouflage products to boost salon
revenue.
Make-up will need to be removed with a cream cleanser, and a suitable toner
applied for the client’s skin type.
Products are designed to be worn when bathing, but soap should be avoided and
only dab the area dry.
Avoid extremely hot conditions as this can cause the make-up to separate.
If irritation or swelling occurs, remove camouflage immediately and if required
seek medical advice.
Instruct the client in finger or brush application techniques for a touch up – ensure
that the area is always grease-free prior to application.

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 Level 2 Beauty Therapy

Frequently asked questions

Q Can any product be used for camouflage make-up?

A Only specialist products can be used which must be water resistant.

Q Why does the texture of products vary?

A This will depend on the coverage that the product gives, on the skin colour
and tone, and the area where the product is to be applied.
Q Why should the outline of tattoos be covered first?

A Often the edges are darker and the colour can seep through. A white base
colour is applied before the correct base shade is applied.
Unit B10 Enhance appearance using skin camouflage

Check your knowledge

1 What is hyperpigmentation?
2 List three considerations when selecting suitable camouflage products.
3 What is erythema?
4 Describe vitiligo.
5 What is chloasma sometimes known as?
6 What colour powder is titanium dioxide?
7 What colour concealer will neutralise red?
8 Why are tattoos sometimes hard to cover?
9 What type of cleanser is recommended for removing camouflage products?
10 List three causes of over-blending camouflage products.

Getting ready for assessment

Carry out four treatments on four different clients on head or neck,

chest or shoulders, limbs and back using brush, fingers, sponges and
velour puffs while upholding health and safety requirements.
Show that you can successfully cover tattoos, pigmentation disorders and
erythema, using creams, powders and setting products.
Carry out a full consultation remembering to ensure client confidentiality is
maintained and a sensitive approach is used.
Provide full advice for home care and removal of the product.

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 Index

Index
accidents, reporting 58, 85 conflict, dealing with 145–6
acid mantle, skin 182 consultations 31–5
acne 202, 496 eye treatments 330–6
ageing process, effect on skin 208–14 facial treatments 266–91
allergies 39, 205–6 make-up 362–74
alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) 213 manicure & pedicure 466–75
anatomy 222–3 skin camouflage 499–500
blood 249–55 waxing 416
bones 224–9 consumer protection laws 60, 61–2
hair structure & growth 245–9 contra-actions 38–9, 351, 417, 490
lymphatic system 255–7 contra-indications 35–8
muscles 239–45 eye treatments 331–2
nail structure & growth 236–9 facials 199–203, 274–5, 294, 299, 315
skin structure & function 229–36 make-up 364–5
appointments 158–9, 160–3 manicure & pedicure 469–74
appraisals 28, 136–40 waxing treatments 416–17
artificial eyelashes 347–53 contracts of employment 131–3
athlete’s foot 469 COSHH regulations 54
attitude to work 15–16 cosmetic products
concealers 379–80
black light equipment 196–7 contouring 384–6
blepharitis 201, 331 corrective 386–7
blood 249–55 for eyes 387–91
body language 17–18 face powders 384
bones 224–9 foundations 380–3
Botox treatments 141, 214 for lips 392–3
brush cleansing 299–302 regulations 60–1
BSI British Standards 66 cosmetic surgery 214
by-laws 64 cost-effectiveness 329, 411
cross-infection 39–47
chloasma 204, 496, 507
clarification techniques 34 damaged goods 170–1
client expectations 47–8 Data Protection Act 63–4
client records see record cards demonstrations, make-up
codes of practice 66–7 delivering 374–5
collagen treatments 214 evaluation of 404–5
comedone extraction 298 planning 370–3
communication skills 16–21 dermatitis 202, 332, 462
promoting products 113–14 dermis 232–3
working in teams 142–3 desquamation, skin 183
competence levels 92 disability laws 62–3
complaints, handling 24, 158 discounts 168–9
computer systems 29–30, 159–61 display screen regulations 59–60

509

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 Index

eczema 202, 331, 471 hair

effectiveness at work 124–46 facts about 422–3
electricity regulations 57–8, 78, 89 growth of 420–1, 436–7
emergency procedures 98–9 removal of 423–5, 434–5
employability 125 structure & growth 245–9
employee rights 132–3 see also wax treatments
employers liability insurance 60 hazards 73
employment contracts 131–3 actions to minimise risk of 88–90
Employment Rights Act 51 dealing with low risk 86
enquiries, dealing with 155–60 identifying potential 78–9
environment laws 58, 89, 265, 412 legal requirements 54, 84
epidermis 183, 229–32 reporting high risk 84–6
epilation 120, 422, 425 health and safety 72
Equality Act 62–3 identifying hazards & risks 73–86
equipment regulations 53, 56–7 legislation 49–60
erythema 197, 251, 470, 507 reducing workplace risks 87–103
ethical codes 66–7 Health and Safety at Work Act 72, 78, 83
ethnicity of skin 190–4 Health and Safety Executive (HSE) 72
eyebrows & eyelashes 328 Health Act 55
aftercare advice 338, 354 heart 254–5
artificial eyelashes 347–53 heat stress 52
client consultation & preparation 330–6 hospitality 154
safe & effective working 329–30 hygiene 39
shaping eyebrows 337–9 client hygiene 45
tinting brows and lashes 339–47 independent regulators 65–6
and micro-organisms 39–43
face masks 286–7, 314–21 personal hygiene 44
face shapes/contours 198–9, 370, 386–7 salon hygiene 44–5
facial steaming 293–8
facial treatments 262 incidents, recording 103
aftercare advice 321–3 independent regulators 65–6
client consultation & preparation 266–91 infections
contra-indications 199–203 protecting against 39–45, 53
improving & maintaining skin condition 291–321 role of lymphatic system 255–6
safe & effective working 262–6 skin 200–1, 274–5, 469–71
feet insurance 65
conditions of 473–4
pedicure services 484–7 job roles 126–8, 130–1
fire-fighting equipment 100–1
fire procedures 97–9 laser treatments 213–4, 422
fire regulations 55 learning opportunities 128–9
first aid 101–3 legislation 49–64
Fitzpatrick classification system 194–5 consumer protection 60, 61–2
free radicals 178, 181, 208 copyright 63
data protection 63–4
glands 234 disability discrimination 62–3
guidelines of salon 67–8 employers’ liability insurance 60
employment rights 51
health and safety 49–60, 72, 78, 83

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 Index

local government 64 PAT Testing 57–8

trade descriptions 61–2 payment handling 164–71
working hours 63 pedicure see manicure and pedicure
link selling 402–3 performing rights law 63
listening skills 19–20 personal effectiveness 26–8
local by-laws 64 personal performance 124–41
lymphatic system 255–7 personal presentation 12–15, 92–3
personal protective equipment 53
magi lamp 195 personal security 95–6
make-up 358–9 pH of skin 182
aftercare advice 402–3 photosensitivity of skin 194–5
applying products 376–401 pigmentation disorders 203–5
client consultation & preparation 362–74 planning of treatment 25–8
evaluating success 404–5 premises, security of 94
instruction in 374–5 presentation, professional 12–15
safe & effective working 359–621 productivity targets 134–5
male clients 207–8, 475 products
managers, role of 28–9 camouflage 500–2
manicure and pedicure 456–7 knowledge of 34–5, 108–9
aftercare advice 490–1 make-up 378–92
client consultation & preparation 466–75 manicure & pedicure 460–2, 491
manicure services 475–84 promotion of 106–21
pedicure services 484–7 security issues 95
safe & effective working 457–66 self-tanning 217–18
specialist treatments 487–90 skin 277–90
Manual Handling Regulations 52–3 professional indemnity insurance 65
mask treatments 314–21 professional skills 12
massage 302–14, 482–4 attitude to work 15–16
effect on blood circulation 251–2 client consultation 31–5
melanin 189, 197, 203 client expectations 47–8
melanoderma 203 codes of practice 66–7
micro-organisms 39–40 communication skills 16–21
controlling 41–3 contra-actions 38–9
modesty of client 46–7 contra-indications 35–8
moisturisers 212, 285–6, 379 hygiene 39–47
muscles 239–45 independent regulators 65–6
insurance 65
nails legislation 49–64
conditions of 471–3 planning 25–8
infections 469–71 presentation 12–15
painting techniques 481–2 record keeping 29–31
shaping 467 salon guidelines 67–8
structure & growth of 236–9 salon services 21–4
National Occupational Standards (NOS) 126 teamwork 28
non-verbal communication 17–18 promotion of products/services 23–4, 106–21
nutrition 178–80 protective clothing 53
psoriasis 183, 202, 331
observation skills 33 public liability insurance 65

511

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 Index

questioning techniques 32–3, 268, 363–4 photosensitivity of 194–5

pigmentation disorders 203–5
reception duties 25–6, 150 structure & function 229–36
appointments 160–3 and the sun 215–18
attend to clients and enquiries 155–60 types 184–6
maintain reception area 150–4 skin camouflage 496
payments 164–71 aftercare advice 507
record cards 29–31, 265–6, 269, 360–1, 414–15 client consultation 499–500
retail sales 23–4 safe & effective working 497–9
RIDDOR regulations 58 treatments 500–7
risk assessments 90–1, 264 SMART rule 139
risks 73 smoking, effects on skin 180–1
identifying 79–82 staff security 95–6
reducing 87–90, 92–6 stock control 153–4
see also hazards strengths & weaknesses 136–41
sun, effect on skin 214–16
safety see health and safety sun protection 216–17
sale of products/services 23–4, 106–21 Supply of Goods Acts 62
salon services and products 106–7
communication with clients 113–15 tanning 215–18
gaining client commitment 115–20 targets 133–5, 139
identifying available 107–12 teamwork 19, 28–9, 141–6
referring clients elsewhere 121–2 technical knowledge 34
seasonal promotions 112 timings of treatment 22–3, 134–5, 465–6
security issues 93 tinting eyebrows/eyelashes 339–47
money/takings 171 Trade Descriptions Act 61
premises 94 training 128–9, 135–6
products 95 trends in beauty therapy 141
staff 95–6
self-assessment appraisals 137–8 uniforms 13
self-tanning products 217–18
sensitivity tests 205–6, 340–1, 435–6 verbal communication 16–17
skin 176
and ageing 208–15 waste disposal 58, 81, 89, 265, 329, 360, 412
allergic reactions 205–6 wax treatments 408
analysis 276–7 aftercare advice 450–1
conditions 186–8 applying/removing wax 439–49
contra-indications 199–203 benefits & effects of 432–3
diagnostic tools 195–7 client consultation 415–19
ethnicity 190–4 properties of 425–32
face shapes & contours 198–9 safe & effective working 409–15, 437–9
genetics & environment 177–8 suitability for different areas of body 434
lifestyle & environment 178–81 woods lamps 196–7
male skin 207–8 Working Time Regulations 63
melanin and pigment 189 written communication 20
pH and desquamation 182–3

512

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